May - June 2022

SPOTLIGHT ON MONTREAL BAKERIES

It’s ingrained in us

the

and

Choc’Oreo is on the menu at Rustique Pie Kitchen in Montreal.

BY COLLEEN CROSS

MENTAL HEALTH CHECK-IN

How is your mental health these days?

Here is a common scenario we witnessed in the early days of the pandemic. Operators were stressed out by the day-to-day uncertainty of pandemic restrictions and government announcements. They worried about their staff, they worried about paying their rent, they worried about keeping the lights on, they worried about having to close for good.

In the end, many made wise decisions based on instinctive concern for their teams and the best information available. Nobody wanted to be at the centre of a COVID-19 outbreak.

There were a lot of sleepless nights and daily knots in the stomach.

Operators checked in with their staff to learn how they were feeling and what they needed. When difficult decisions about reducing staff happened, many went out of their way to look out for those employees affected by providing free meals and other forms of support.

Once settled into new routines, often with fewer staff, these entrepreneurs faced another kind of stress – the strain of working long hours alone or with skeleton staff to keep filling the take-out and delivery orders that – thank goodness – were coming in steadily.

Does this roller-coaster sound familiar?

Mental health has got more attention during the pandemic, and rightly so. There was a lot going on, most of it bad. And for some, there was too much time alone to stew about it.

Now that it looks like the worst is behind us, it’s time to do a mental health check: How are you doing? How are your longtime employees feeling and coping with the heavy workload? How are your new hires doing in the new environment working with a new team?

What does it mean to have good mental health? “Good mental health allows you to feel, think and act in ways that help you enjoy life and cope with its challenges.” That’s Health Canada’s definition. Your mental health can be positively or negatively influenced by life experiences, relationships with others, physical health, the type of community you live in and whether it’s supportive or isolating.

}Smart business leaders who nurture the well-being of their employees will become employers of choice.

According to the Canadian Mental Health Association, mental illness affects 7.5 million Canadians – about 20 per cent of the population. You can bet mental issues are affecting someone you work with.

Do you check in with your employees regularly? Have you checked in on them lately? It’s important for employers to make sure your workplace is a positive place to be and meeting your obligations. Physical health and safety are top of mind for many operators, but is mental health and safety?

If you’ve been wondering if you’re doing enough to promote a positive workplace, here are a few tools and resources to get you on the right track. The association and the Mental Health Commission of Canada collaborated to create the Takeaways Toolkit, which is based on how 40 workplaces have put in place the National Standard for Psychological Health and Safety in the Workplace. The Toolkit, including a state-of-mind checklist, is a good place to start if you want your business to address and promote the psychological health and safety of your employees. Not 9 to 5 is a non-profit organization started in 2020 by people in the restaurant industry to empower hospitality, food and beverage service workers by providing education and support for mental health and substance use. The website (not9to5.org) has resources, including a mental health course, designed for restaurants, retail bakeries and food service.

As recruiting expert Karen Horton observed during a Bakery Showcase panel, smart business leaders who nurture the well-being of their employees will become employers of choice.

As we head into a busy summer, we wish you all health, strong sales and some blessed down time! / BJ

MAY/JUNE 2022 | VOL. 82, NO. 4

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briefly | History of bread baking the subject of new Calgary exhibit; Upcycled Certified program expands into Canada | for more news in the baking world, check out our website, www.bakersjournal.com

Westside Bakery named Inspirational Bakery of the Year! SAIT culinary program to develop Centre of Excellence

Bakers Journal and founding sponsor Ardent Mills together congratulate Westside Bakery of Edmonton, our new Inspirational Bakery of the Year revealed at Bakery Showcase!

The can-do duo of Leeanne Tucker and Travis Blake dreamed big to open a wholesale and commercial bakery and didn’t let the pandemic get in their way. Instead, they put their focus on the community.

Westside now makes and sells artisan-style baked goods at a wholesale scale, serving cafés, restaurants, hotel chains and grocer across western Canada. They plan to diversify with the help of their “mighty and growing team.”

Reid McEachran, marketing manager for Ardent Mills, says he could feel the emotion and depth of the story coming

off the page. Tucker describes writing her entry as therapeutic. “After all we’ve been through, I thought about all of the things we’d done and realized we’re doing all right!

Runner-up for the award is Club Cappuccino Café, a small local family-run café in Thunder Bay, Ont., shared their story of how they created a grab-and-go dessert table to make take-out orders safe and convenient during the pandemic lockdown, among other creative innovations.

Thank you to Founding Sponsor Ardent Mills, Silver Sponsor Sunsweet Ingredients and Travel Sponsor Lallemand for their support of this meaningful contest, which recognizes outstanding bakery businesses in Canada.

Read all about Westside Bakery’s crazy pandemic ride in the July issue!

Southern Alberta Institute of Technology’s culinary program is getting a new Centre of Excellence, and will receive major interior maintenance and renewal and new flexible space for programming.

Budget 2022 commits $41 million over three years to the redevelopment of the John Ware Building. This investment is expected to increase student capacity in the building by 150.

“Our province’s investment in SAIT enables us to further enhance our learning space to match the quality of education we provide our students in the hospitality and tourism sector, which is vital to the Alberta economy,” said David Ross, SAIT president and CE. “This important funding from the Government of Alberta allows us to take our programming and student experience to the next level.”

Additionally, upgrades to the building’s mechanical and electrical equipment are expected to better support education needs while improving efficiency and reducing environmental impact.

Denise Lee new Director of Food and Nutrition Policy for BAC

The Baking Association of Canada is delighted to announce the hiring of Denise Lee as Director of Food and Nutrition Policy effective May 16.

Denise joins the BAC with a Bachelor of Nutrition Science from the University of Guelph and nearly 25 years of experience that spans several regulated CPG industries including food, natural health and cannabis, in the areas of policy, regulatory and quality management.

Denise looks forward to providing continuous support and value in ensuring the challenges and concerns of BAC members are heard. She is excited to engage and collaborate with members and hear how she can support current practices and innovations and work through current industry challenges.

BRIAN FRAY,

PHOTO: JENNA KELLY

Leeanne Tucker, president

Scientists in Italy develop yeast-free pizza dough

Researchers from the University of Naples Federico II have developed a method to leaven pizza dough without yeast.

In typical breads, yeast produces bubbles via a biochemical process, causing dough to rise and develop into light, airy, and tasty treats. Without that yeast, it is difficult to make morsels with the same characteristic taste and texture. The perfect, yeast-free pizza, as such a food, presents an important challenge for bakers and yeast-intolerant crust enthusiasts across the globe.

In Physics of Fluids, by American Institute of Physics Publishing, researchers from the University of Naples Federico II have published an article called “Rheology-driven design of pizza gas foaming” in which they describe how they developed a method to leaven pizza dough without yeast.

The team, which included its very own professional pizza maker/graduate student, prepared the dough by mixing water, flour, and salt and placing it in a

New Ontario website helps entrepreneurs launch faster

The Ontario government has launched a website that aims to make it easier for entrepreneurs to start their own business.

The website Ontario.ca/business is one of the initiatives being implemented as part of the Fewer Fees, Better Services Act, which received Royal Assent on March 3, 2022, and builds on successive efforts to cut red tape and reduce unnecessary regulatory burdens for businesses.

It is intended to create a single window for business that will reduce administrative burdens and make it easier for Ontario business owners and entrepreneurs to access the information and services they need to get up-and-running, create jobs, and grow their business.

The Ministry of Economic Development, Job Creation and Trade said in a news release that, over time, the website will develop into an intuitive, predictable and transparent source of information needed for new and growing businesses, with new tools added to meet the needs of entrepreneurs and business owners. The government hopes to take the confusion out of completing necessary paperwork and permits.

hot autoclave, an industrial device designed to raise temperature and pressure.

From there, the process is like the one used to produce carbonation in soda. Gas is dissolved into the dough at high pressure, and bubbles form in the dough as pressure is released during baking. In comparison to other scientific experiments, the pressures involved were mild. They can be obtained by a typical at-home coffee maker.

However, the scientists-turned-bakers had to be cautious with the pressure release. Compared to soda, pizza dough does not respond as nicely to an abrupt change in pressure.

“The key to the process is to design the pressure release rate not to stress the dough, which likes to expand gently,” said author Ernesto Di Maio.

The authors evaluated their dough with rheology, which measures the flow and deformation of a material. Fine-tuning the pressure release through rheological

analysis made it possible to gently inflate bubbles to the desired extent.

“We mainly studied how dough behaves with and without yeast. How the softness changes with leavening, and how the dough responds to a temperature program during baking,” said author Rossana Pasquino. “This was fundamental to designing the pressure protocol for the dough without yeast.”

After many unofficial taste tests, the researchers are purchasing a larger, food-grade autoclave that will make full-sized pizzas in future experiments. They hope to see their idea used in pizza shops.

As a person with a yeast allergy, Di Maio is also excited about applications for other leavened products like bread, cakes and snacks: “This new technology can drive the development of new products, new dough formulations, and specific recipes for food intolerance, hopefully helping people enjoy healthy and tasty food,” he said.

Italian flour companies launch campaign to promote organic flours

The Italian Association of Millers has launched an ambitious initiative to promote exports of organic soft wheat and durum wheat flour and semolina to the U.S. and Canada and to raise awareness of their high quality.

“Pure Flour from Europe: Your Organic and Sustainable Choice!” is a campaign co-funded by the European Commission. ITALMOPA, established in 1958 and with more than 80 flour companies from across Italy, including Molino Grassi, Molino Casillo and Molino de Vita.

The Pure Flour from Europe campaign will last three years and include consumer and trade events with product demonstrations led by chefs featuring pizza, pasta, pastries and breads. There will also be social media and advertising campaigns and participation in important trade shows targeting the grocery, food-service and food manufacturing sectors. The initiative will include an educational tour of millers of organic flours and semolina in Italy.

“We see great opportunity in North America to grow exports of organic soft wheat flour and durum semolina from Italy. More than ever before, home cooks

and chefs are looking for premium ingredients that are healthy, nutritious and grown without synthetic fertilizers. They also want to respect the environment,” said ITALMOPA president Emilio Ferrari in a news release.

The goal is to increase exports by close to 300 per cent compared to 2020 for Canada and the U.S, and to boost knowledge and awareness of the products among consumers in the two target countries by at least 20 per cent. POS EU Flour will focus in Canada on Quebec, Ontario and British Columbia.

SPOTLIGHT ON MONTREAL BAKERIES

Montreal is full of bakeries and pastry shops. While many are based on classic French traditions, others offer home-style creations. The choices are endless.

DUC DE LORRAINE

Montreal’s oldest French pastry shop is Duc de Lorraine. While ownership has changed, the pastry chefs still use the same original recipes that were part of the repertoire when the shop first opened in 1952.

“It’s a three-day process to make our croissants,” says Elie Azzi, the pastry chef at Duc de Lorraine. “On the first day the water, milk, flour, sugar, yeast and butter are mixed together.”

Azzi says the dough is allowed to rest overnight. The next day it is laminated using a European butter containing 84 per cent milk fat. “The lamination process consists of a double fold, and then a single fold, while allowing the dough to rest for 30 minutes, in the fridge between folds. Next, the dough is shaped into our signature croissants and put in the freezer to rest. On the third day the croissants are

proofed and baked.”

“During the week we produce 2,500 butter croissants,” says owner Victoria Sorensen. “They are purchased as early as 6:30 in the morning, when they are still warm from the oven.” As for desserts she says, “Our classic millefeuille is a top seller, with customers purchasing approximately 500 per week, along with 400 Napoleons.”

While couples can order a variety of beautiful custommade wedding cakes for their special day, many opt to include an impressive croquembouche for the centre of their dessert tables. “Our

Clockwise: Fous Desserts’ Maracuya, a mousse cake, is made with passion fruit, orange and lemon, with vanilla cream and coconut Mona Lisa biscuit. Pastry chefs at Duc de Lorraine still use the same original recipes that were part of the repertoire when the shop first opened in 1952. Customers of Boulangerie Guillaume are particularly fond of the Fesses Patates Cheddar, named for the shape.

most sought-after flavours are vanilla, coffee and chocolate,” Sorensen says.

FOUS DESSERTS

When the original owner decided to sell Fous Desserts, Hiroko Fukuhara, already in charge of administration, and Carolle De Boisvilliers, the pastry chef, signed on the dotted line. “For more than 20 years Fous Desserts has been known for our croissants and chocolatines,” Fukuhara says. “Our Viennoiseries are made by hand every morning. We use pure butter, organic flour and local honey.”

Says De Boisvilliers, “I take my inspiration from classical French desserts and add my own personal touches.” Some of her favourite combinations are chocolate with fruit, vanilla with nuts, and raspberries with kaffir lime.

Maracuya, a mousse cake, is made with passion fruit, orange and lemon, with vanilla cream and coconut Mona Lisa biscuit.

The Croquant is a dark, rich, chocolate mousse, with crunchy hazelnut crisps, on a thin almond dacquoise.

Chocolates are made with premium Valrhona. These include fresh ganache squares with fruits, spices and teas. Pralines made in house include almond, pistachio, pecan nuts and sesame.

FROMENT ET DE SÈVE

In 1995, the Froment et de Sève bakery was founded by

Quebecoise baker René Sicard, who made a small selection of fine breads and pastries. In 2014, it was sold to the Callies family from France. Today, there are more than 60 employees, and two locations, producing more than 400 products. Yet, the bakery still maintains its original, classic recipes.

Using high-quality ingredients, from real butter to Cacao Barry chocolate, Alain Bollier is the production chef, who oversees the creation of the delicious Viennoiserie. “The chocolatine is our best seller, because she is huge!” exclaims owner Constance Callies. “We use three different kinds of chocolate, which gives it a unique taste. Then, there are the croissants, full of butter and love. For our maple croissants, we fill the inside and top with pure, organic maple syrup. No other bakery does that because of the cost.”

Pastry chef Marie Le Mintier heads up both the pastry and the chocolate/biscuit production. The Lemon Basil Delight is a pastry on a Breton shortbread crust, filled with basil-infused lemon curd, set with gelatin and decorated with peaked rounds of Italian meringue.

A pure butter choux pastry is the base of the classic éclair, filled with chocolate pastry cream and topped with a centre line of whipped cream. The

triangle-shaped Royal is a creamy, 70 per cent chocolate mousse, sitting on an almond and praline biscuit.

BOULANGERIE GUILLAUME

Guillaume Vaillant, co-owner of Boulangerie Guillaume, says customers at his shop are particularly fond of the Fesses Patates Cheddar, named for the shape (resembles buttocks). “They certainly represent a comfort in terms of flavours, but it is also a unique Quebec-inspired bread. The others are the Traditional Baguette, Small Sourdough Miches, and the Grano. These are the same breads that are popular with our commercial customers, along with the well-loved Ciabatta square, made with generous amounts of olive oil. The secret to many unforgettable sandwiches.”

Boulangerie Guillaume is also well known for incredible brioche. “It’s purely a basic, classic French brioche,” Vaillant says modestly. “We use 35 per cent cream, instead of milk, and a lot of butter. Then, when it comes out of the oven, we wash it with clarified butter.”

RUSTIQUE PIE KITCHEN

Of course, not all shops in Montreal are based on the classics. Mégane BouchetLanat is the pastry chef at Rustique Pie Kitchen. Al-

though she studied classical pastry in France, she likes the authenticity she finds in homestyle desserts, as well as the opportunity to explore new flavours every season.

Popular seasonal pies include the double-crusted Quebec apple, lattice crusted sour cherry pies and lemon meringue. Bouchet-Lanat also bakes off cakes, such as the traditional carrot cake, with walnuts, cream cheese icing and cinnamon. Rounding out the menu is a collection of cookies and bars, as well as granolas and take-away baking mixes.

As for her favourite creation, Bouchet-Lanat says, “My true love is chocolate, which is why my favourite dessert, is the Choc’Oreo. It is a combination of all my favourite treats: a cookie dough base, Oreo cookies, a fudgy brownie, and a generous dark chocolate ganache. The inspiration behind this was, as with many of our products, rooted in nostalgia. It’s a chocolate lover’s dream.”

OL’ SWEET PASTRY

“The Kürtőskalács recipe is a Hungarian recipe from Transylvania. It’s a three-centuries-old tradition that became popular in Eastern Europe, especially in Christmas Markets,” says David Sebestyen, owner of the specialty shop Ol’ Sweet

Pastry, that makes these items, also known as chimney cakes.

“Everyone who makes these pastries adds their own secret touch to it. Our base recipe is directly from Transylvania. I worked for two to three months, with my mom and grandma, to personalize it to our taste.”

What does Kürtőskalács taste like? “It is similar to a sweet bread or brioche dough. But what really differentiates us is the texture of our pastries. It’s a dough strip that we roll around a wooden roll, let it rise and then sprinkle it with a thin layer of sugar. That sugar coating caramelizes during the baking.”

Ol’ Sweet Pastry offers six exterior toppings for traditional cone-shaped chimney cakes, including plain sugar, cinnamon sugar, Nesquik sugar, coconut, walnut and hazelnut. The cone-shaped pastry is a variation that is made from the same dough, but on a cone-shaped wooden roll. These can be filled with hot apple or cherry filling. In the summer, these cones are filled with ice cream.

Visiting Montreal is a feast of the culinary senses, with bakeries and pastry shops everywhere. After exploring, the only thing left to ponder is picking a favourite. / BJ

Ol’ Sweet Pastry makes traditional cone-shaped chimney cakes on a cone-shaped wooden roll using a Hungarian recipe from Transylvania.

Choc’Oreo, on the menu at Rustique Pie Kitchen, features a cookie dough base, Oreo cookies, a fudgy brownie and a dark chocolate ganache.

From the latest in baking ingredients, to the newest continuous mixer, Bakers Journal keeps you “in the know.” for more on new products for the baking industry, check out our website, www.bakersjournal.com

Ardent Mills launches glutenfree and keto-friendly flour blends in Canada

Flour-milling and ingredient company

Ardent Mills has launched a certified gluten-free flour blends and keto-friendly flour blends for Canadian baking businesses.

The company plans to invest further in alternative grain capabilities and diversify its products, building upon its traditional flour business.

According to Ardent Mills, its ketofriendly flour blends can be used as a replacement for conventional flour without compromising taste, texture or functionality, while its new gluten-free flour blends offer ease of use for a variety of formats.

The new flour blends will be available for purchase directly through Ardent Mills Canada and bakery and food-service distributors across Canada:

Gluten-free 1:1 All-Purpose Flour, which is suited for retail bakeries, wholesale bakeries and food-service operators, and

can be used as a one-to-one replacement for conventional flour in most recipe applications without compromising taste, texture or functionality.

Gluten-free Pizza Flour Blend, which is designed to help food-service and pizza chain operators deliver fresh, great-tasting, gluten-free crusts, including thin, flatbread and pan pizzas.

Keto-Friendly Flour Blend, which is designed for bread and bakery manufacturers as a keto-friendly flour blend for a broad range of bread and baked goods. The blend was formulated to achieve the right balance of dietary fibres and grains without nuts or nut flour and does contain gluten, which allows customers to run on their current equipment without significant changes.

Keto-Friendly Pizza Mix, which was developed for food-service and pizza chain operators, this easy-to-use mix was designed for simple back-of-shop operations and is suitable for most crust formats while still providing great taste, texture and crunch. ardentmills.ca

TouchBistro launches Marketing

and CRM platform to help restaurants drive repeat business

TouchBistro has launched TouchBistro Marketing, a comprehensive marketing and customer relationship management (CRM) platform that connects restaurants with their guests and drives repeat visits by helping operators automate custom marketing campaigns and promotions.

TouchBistro Marketing integrates with the TouchBistro restaurant management platform, which includes POS, payments, loyalty, online ordering and reservations.

TouchBistro Marketing lets restaurateurs put their marketing on autopilot. Restaurant operators can segment diner data using the built-in CRM platform, automate marketing campaigns with custom promotions that can be redeemed in-venue or via online ordering, collect diner feedback, and create their own custom-branded web app. Using TouchBistro Marketing, restaurants can deepen relationships with customers by putting the right message in front of the right customer at the right time, while increasing repeat visits and revenue.

Promotions can be tailored within TouchBistro Marketing to increase customer engagement. Welcome emails for new guests, promotions that drive traffic during certain days and times, campaigns to boost sales of specific items, and updates about optional add-ons to increase check size are among the many examples of marketing campaigns that can be automated.

Using TouchBistro Marketing, a restaurant operator can:

Increase profit margins, improve customer retention, increase brand awareness, enhance operational efficiencies and improve marketing program performance.

The company says, it can be tough for restaurants to know what marketing resonates with their audience and to make data-driven decisions without detailed reporting. The platform generates reports that show which marketing activities are getting results. touchbistro.com

Flavourful

cake ingredients now made in Canada.*

The high-quality ingredients that inspire your amazing cake creations are now closer to home. We provide domestic access to select high-quality, avourful cake mixes, plus Dawn Fillings and assorted bakery ingredients for nishing your cakes. We’re always just a phone call or a click away with valuable technical support plus delicious recipe and decorating inspiration. For creating memorable moments for every occasion, we’re your perfect partner.

See our complete line of Canada-made ingredients online at dawnfoods.com/ca/madeincanada or call at 1-866-277-3663

2022 FCC Food Industry Report: Growth amid inflationary pressures

The annual FCC Food Report reviews last year’s economic environment and highlights opportunities and risks for Canadian food manufacturers for 2022. This includes an annual sales forecast, grocery sales performance, and a new gross margin index.

Industries featured in the report are:

• Grain and oilseed milling

• Sugar and confectionery products

• Fruit, vegetable and specialty food

• Dairy products

• Meat products

• Seafood preparation

• Bakery and tortilla products

Beverage manufacturers, we didn’t forget about you. We will be releasing a separate beverage report later this year.

Takeaways

Several external factors impacted Canadian food industries in 2021, which have resulted in higher input costs, amplified labour shortages and upended food consumption patterns. In early 2021, there was hope that the pandemic could soon be behind us; however, new variants provoked more disruptions, restrictions and uncertainty. Despite these challenges, food manufacturers’ performance proved to be strong.

Here are three key observations from this year’s report:

Gross margins as a percent of sales in food manufacturing increased in 2021 YoY but remain below historical levels and below 2019 (Figure 1). Manufacturers have struggled to fully pass on higher labour and material costs for almost a decade. But margins improved slightly in 2021. At the individual industry level, results widely differ, which we dive into in the report.

Food manufacturing sales increased 14.8% YoY to $125 billion in 2021 (Table 1). This is the strongest YoY sales growth in recorded history (starting in 1992). Increased foodservice volumes and higher selling prices offset volume declines at grocery stores.

Food manufacturing sales are projected to increase 7.4% in 2022, driven by:

• Historically strong disposable income and accumulated savings in 2021

• Food prices remaining elevated

• Robust export markets with food exports representing an estimated 36.8% of overall sales

Figure 1: Gross margins grew in 2021 but remain below historical levels

Source: Statistics Canada, FCC Economics

Table 1: Manufacturing sales and exports grew in 2021

Source: Statistics Canada

The bottom line

Economic conditions are evolving rapidly. The labour market continues to be a challenge, and inflationary pressures continue to climb. War in Eastern Europe and economic sanctions also pose a risk to global economic growth, creating food shortages in many countries that depend on commodities from this region, potentially causing a food crisis for millions.

Stronger disposable income and higher savings in 2021 will support 2022 domestic food consumption growth, although inflation is diminishing many households’ purchasing power. Margin growth will depend on several factors, the biggest being the COVID pandemic’s evolution and how businesses adapt to interest rates increases and input costs.

Read the full report at fcc.ca/foodreport

Kyle Burak, FCC Senior Economist

Bakery Showcase 2022 was the setting for long-overdue industry connections | BY COLLEEN CROSS

BAKERY SHOWCASE BUZZ

Bakery Showcase 2022 was the place to be for Canadian baking professionals. Between the well-attended education sessions, the busy trade show floor and the main stage, attendees had no shortage of ways to connect, learn and be inspired.

The Baking Association of Canada welcomed well over 1,500 attendees plus

speakers, staff, sponsors and exhibitors.

Education sessions kicked off with a well-attended Baking Association of Canada annual general meeting in which the board executive outlined ambitious plans for membership expansion and government advocacy. An equally full and lively panel of experts in the fields of government grants, human resources and automation shared information with

bakery owners and operators eager for ideas on how to attract and retain staff. Both sessions were interactive and great forums for follow-up networking.

COMMUNICATION IMPORTANT TO YOUR BUSINESS

Keynote speaker Justine Martin, owner of Guilty Pleasures Bakeshop in Sudbury, Ont., shared practical advice on how to

Bakers were ready to discover new trends, new products, new equipment and new acquaintances.

improve and make the most of communication skills including leveraging earned media to promote your bakery. Martin, who had considerable professional experience in communications before starting her baking career, described why these skills are crucial to a bakery’s success.

Attendees were treated to an in-depth conversation with Mahathi Mundluru, finalist on the Great Canadian Baking Show, where she described

what it was like to bake competitively under pressure and delved into the thought process behind some of her innovative flavour profiles.

“Whenever I think about any ingredient, I think about what is the flavour profile of that ingredient? And then I’ll think, what do I need to balance it? Do I need an acid, do I need salt, do I need bitterness, right? For instance . . . to balance that [bitter melon] out, you need a little bit of acidity, you need a little bit of sugar.”

}“I was trying to tell a story with my bakes, whether it was stories of my travels, or of my family, or of my personality. I’ve always tried to incorporate a part of me, which I think made it a lot more fun for me to do because it's essentially like I can tell my story through my food.”

TACKLING STAFFING CHALLENGES

A panel of experts came at the issue of “Thriving in a Labour

Shortage” from different perspectives, all providing useful insights and strategies.

The focus was on how to get grants and other recuperating funds for your bakery, how to find and keep skilled employees and how automation can help your bakery be efficient and less dependent on skilled labour.

Bonny Koabel, CPA, CGA, said many bakeries aren’t aware there are grants available to help them recoup some of the costs associated

Motion Control, emphasized that people will be the one topic constantly on the table at every company in every industry. Henderson said automation is an option bakery businesses of all sizes might consider to fill the jobs he describes as the “three Ds: dirty, dull and dangerous.”

Karen Horton is a recruitment specialist helping businesses connect with the right talent for managerial needs as well as a hiring coach to franchise owners and

‘I was trying to tell a story with my bakes, whether it was stories of my travels, or of my family, or of my personality.’ – Mahathi Mundluru, finalist, Great Canadian Baking Show

with staffing, including grants to help pay student tuition and grants to help bakeries automate. Koabel is president of AKR Consulting Canada, which specializes in government grants, subsidies and tax credits.

Doug Henderson, regional sales manager for Apex

independents. Horton said it’s time to turn from “the Great Retirement” to “the Great Retention” by focusing on the needs of employees, including offering them moral support, being flexible and making their mental health a priority for the business.

PLANT-BASED BUSINESS PRIMER

Jessica Nadel of Beard’s Bakery in Thunder Bay, and Tijana Bogdanovic of Twenty1 Desserts in Bowmanville, Ont., have successfully served a market seeking better-for-you plant-based bakery treats and shared their experiences with other bakers.

Attendees learned why all bakeries should care about the plant-based market, what the main considerations are for a bakery or bakery-café to get started offering plant-based products without necessarily going 100 per cent plantbased. With care, a hybridapproach possible.

BAKING WITH CANNABIS PANEL

Moderator Jean Ko Din talked with a panel about the difference between CBD and THC, the implications

Attendees discuss the newest baking equipment with a representative from Rheon.

MODERN TWISTS ON ARTISANAL BREADS

There’s no question about it: consumers continue to crave modern, fresh takes on bakery classics. Able to harness an array of emerging and specialty ingredients, nutritional benefits, and eccentric flavours, breads are experiencing a renaissance of consumer-induced elevation and innovation.

In this article, we’ll discuss ways bakers can capitalize on this “modern artisanal” trend – grounded in the textures, flavours and health benefits of breads that meet consumers’ preferences and lifestyle needs.

INFUSE WELLNESS TRENDS INTO BREADS

}Spurred by the COVID-19 pandemic, consumers are paying close attention to the ingredients in their food – with a sustained, renewed focus on nutritional well-being, further fuelled by trending lifestyle diets and emerging ingredients.

By experimenting with modern takes on artisanal breads, bakeries can spearhead and drive demand for diversified products.

An interesting movement to keep an eye on is bread profiles with prebiotic and postbiotic ingredients …

friendly, vegan or even gluten-free lifestyles.

EMBRACE UNEXPECTED BREADS WITH UNEXPECTED INGREDIENTS

EXPERIMENT

WITH ANCIENT AND EMERGING GRAINS

Ancient grains are becoming mainstream. And, as consumers continue to expect more innovation that pushes the boundaries, it’s time for bakers to follow suit.

In addition, as consumers themselves continue to bake more at home, there’s a heightened level of expectation for bakers to introduce innovative options that aren’t readily available at the grocery stores or easily made at home themselves.

Within the bakery sphere, natural sweeteners, fibre and protein additions are in high demand. This comes as consumers look to consume baked goods infused with natural, non-modified ingredients that may help support healthier or perceived healthier nutritional profiles. Ingredients such as chickpeas and chickpea flour check this box without compromising taste. They can also cater to those seeking keto-

From a mid-morning treat to a muchneeded dessert break, bakeries can re-embrace the role bread plays outside of the traditional lunch sandwich, especially when it comes to snacking.

More and more, bakers are experimenting with recipes that comprise unique ingredients and flavour profiles, such as carrot and zucchini, to add bold colour and a perceived healthier, modern twist that meets consumers in every moment.

An interesting movement to keep an eye on is bread profiles with prebiotic and postbiotic ingredients that may provide supplementary benefits and give an unexpected, modern flair to everyday breads.

Opened by the “floodgates” of quinoa, of which Canada has the third highest consumption per capita, bakeries can proactively identify and activate around the next frontier of ancient and emerging grains, spanning amaranth to barley, rye, spelt, einkorn and more. From muffins to pizza to flatbread, ancient grains can provide unique texture and flavour profiles that appeal to consumers.

Bakeries should embrace modern ingredients that meet consumers’ evolving needs and give artisanal breads an exciting flair. By experimenting with modern takes on artisanal breads, bakeries can spearhead and drive demand for diversified offerings that satisfy, nourish and push the boundaries. / BJ

Elaine O’Doherty is Marketing Lead Canada for Ardent Mills.

Notes from the Executive Director

The Baking Association continues its advocacy work for the industry, and we have had a very busy spring.

REGULATORY AFFAIRS

One of the issues that we are engaged in is front-of-package labelling. Health Canada has decided that certain pre-packaged foods should have warning labels on them if they contain more that 15 per cent of the recommended daily allowance of three “Nutrients of Concern.” These ingredients are sugar, saturated fat and sodium. The baking industry has reduced sodium considerably since the issue first arose over 10 years ago, but there are still concerns that lean pantry breads will not fall under the limit and will have to have a negative warning on the front of the package for consumers.

We are arguing that bread is a staple of many Canadian families’ diets and dayto-day pantry breads should be exempt from the regulations. Butter and cheese are already exempt: we must make sure that the main vehicle for delivering butter and cheese is exempt from these misdirected regulations as well! We continue to meet with Health Canada to put forward our views that salt is a very important processing aid for bread production and any further reduction would impact not only flavour but

also gluten strength, fermentation, crumb, colour, mouthfeel and keeping qualities. We are also adding to the discussion that any further downward pressure on bread sales would negatively affect Canadians’ health as the enrichment of flour, especially with fortified micro ingredients, is a proven way for consumers to get enough vitamins, minerals and folic acid in their daily diet. We are hopeful that the good folks at Health Canada will understand our position and grant FOP labelling exemption from this class of bakery items.

Another concern that the BAC has recently engaged with is that of butter. Over the last year there have been challenges with consistency and supply. We had an informal but rewarding conversation with the Canadian Dairy Commission in April and gained a better understanding of the issues facing butter management, production, supply chain and pricing. We will survey our members regarding this soon. If you have any comments regarding butter, please email them to us: info@baking.ca.

NEW BAKERY COOKBOOK

We would just like to give a plug to two of our Canadian baking entrepreneurs – Nickey Miller and Josie Rudderham – who have recently published their own cookbook, Cake & Loaf . They

operate a bakery in Hamilton of the same name. Published by Penguin, the 296-page volume contains recipes from their shop. You can find it at penguinrandomhouse.ca. Nickey and Josie were recently interviewed by Mark Dyck on Rise Up: The Baker Podcast, and you can listen to it here: https://riseuppod.com/rise-up169-nickey-miller-and-josie-rudderham

BAC DIRECTOR LENDS EXPERTISE TO SUSTAINABILITY PODCAST

Blair Hyslop, co-CEO and co-owner of Mrs. Dunster’s (1996) Inc., discusses the importance of sustainability in local sourcing on a Future Food Cast podcast called Sustainability in the Bakery Industry Through Local Sourcing. He also discusses supply chain stability and transparency in the food sector. You can find this episode on YouTube at https://youtu.be/BgkonxE7ceI.

Notes from the Executive Director

Staffing: Q-and-A with Forno Cultura

Ontario Chapter Annual Golf Tournament INSIDE

BAKERY SHOWCASE

Now with Showcase behind us, all we have to say is thank you to all those who made it possible and to you, of the industry, who came out in droves to take in the sights and sounds of our first post-pandemic trade show.

In my paternal role as Executive Director, I wanted to make sure that everyone had a memorable experience, and the feedback has been encouraging. The biggest takeaway for me was to observe the earnest conversations between exhibitors and delegates, between the BAC directors and their community, and to hear snippets of optimistic conversations regarding the state of our industry.

Now we can start to plan for the next Showcase in Vancouver next year (May 14-15). Yes, it starts on Mother’s Day, and we will be celebrating with all our moms over the weekend. If you are planning a trip to celebrate, why not come to beautiful British Columbia in the spring?

MEMBERSHIP

We can report that the membership application and renewal portal is now live on the BAC website – https://baking.ca/membership/ – so this will make it much easier for our members. We have also completed our affiliations with our corporate partners. Gallaghers Business Insurance, Group Health, Fidelity Payment Services, Rogers Mobile, as well as American Bakers Association and the Bread Bakers Guild of America. All of these partners offer our members deep discounts as well as access to educational opportunities. Stay tuned for an official launch of this new initiative.

You might also remember that we have opened up more specific categories for BAC members. These include Chocolatier, Pâtissier, Artisan Baker, Market Baker and Pizza as well as Hotels and Resorts. And as previously announced, any student enrolled in a full-time baking and pastry program in Canada can enrol for free!

GOLFING AND NETWORKING

Join the Ontario Chapter for golf and networking June 14 and B.C. Chapter June 22. Download registration forms at https://baking.ca/ontario-chapterannual-golf-tournament-registration/ and https://baking.ca/bc-chapter-annual-golf-tournament-registration/

Martin Barnett

Executive Director

Baking Association of Canada mbarnett@baking.ca

The BAC’s mission is to empower our members in providing nutritious and delicious baked goods to consumers in Canada and around the world through leading public policy, knowledge transfer and networking.

Retaining staff: Q-and-A with Forno Cultura

At Bakery Showcase in April, a diverse and engaged industry panel considered how the baking industry is educating the next generation of bakers. Topics included what’s working and not working in baking apprenticeship programs, the staffing needs of large and small bakery businesses and how more short courses in specialized areas might serve bakery staff and employers alike. Naturally, talk turned to staffing challenges such as hiring and retention (watch next issue for more on the panel).

Following the session, panellist Andrea Mastrandrea shared his thoughts on staffing challenges and how to motivate and retain employees.

Mastrandrea, a third-generation baker and professional architect, founded Forno Cultura in 2013, an Italian wholesale and retail artisan bakery and fine food emporium with six locations across Toronto that he runs with partner Laleh Larijani.

Which positions are most difficult to fill? All positions. It’s not just a matter of finding enough good candidates. It’s a matter of finding enough candidates, period. There’s been a shift in the workplace and the availability of workers. They’re not coming back anytime soon. The pandemic was an editing of sorts. Those who were maybe not 100 per cent committed to the industry left, went back to school or went on to other industries. Those who remain, I think, are

a concentrated, serious professional group. It’s a slower build-back but a better one.

Have you raised your wages/salaries significantly?

We were always quite proactive – we were always one or two dollars above the minimum wage. When the minimum wage started going up, we were already there. It’s one of our most important values and it helps us attract and retain good staff.

‘We’re quite interested in people who have interests outside of the business. We’re thinking long term and there is a balance there.’

– Andrea Mastrandrea

How do you reward or keep employees motivated?

I was a big proponent of R&D and of offering employees the chance to constantly work on new ideas. It took a while, but I found the opposite was happening. I realized not a lot of people were interested in that. They wanted a clear understanding of what their day, week and month will look like.

I was basing this priority on what I would want in a workplace. Now I try to understand what they need. We try to support that with systems and structures. For example, four years ago we started taking out teams from our King Street location and putting them into more specialized production spaces. We

gave them a specific bread lab space and a wood-fired oven.

There are things we think are important – competitive salaries and good health plans – which staff don’t necessarily even know they need. Also, we’re quite interested in people who have interests outside of the business. We’re thinking long term and there is a balance there.

We’ve always been supportive, taking key staff to food shows in Europe, supporting them to pursue professional programs in school such as MIT for business, for example. And we are flexible with schedules: they need to work with both parties to be sustainable.

I think people learned during the pandemic that they had very little security. We tried to instil some security in this unusual situation. We were quick to communicate with staff, open to ideas and we were able to retain a good core of our staff.

What’s

next for Forno Cultura?

We’ve started to look at leaders in other industries for a higher standard, asking why are they leaders and what are they doing right? How have they been in business this long?

We don’t want to be part of that group we were before the pandemic – focusing only on speed and scale. It’s unsustainable. We’re looking at the last two years as a way forward. We’ve edited, we’ve streamlined. We’re stronger than we were three years ago.

ONTARIO CHAPTER ANNUAL GOLF TOURNAMENT

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Out of the Box Baking Ideas with California Raisins

By Chef Nelita Silva

Greatbakeries spend a lot of time and research developing new recipes. Whether you’re a commercial operation or a small independent shop, choosing ingredients that are versatile, nutritious, and contain a great flavour profile is essential. When I operated a bakery in Ancaster, I constantly experimented with a variety of products for both classic and innovative breads, treats, and savoury dishes. And this is where I discovered the power and versatility of California raisins.

Raisins-a plant-based fat substitute

Ideal in a broad spectrum of products, this simple fruit creates the perfect mouth feel, without the need for added fat or sugar. I found they are an ideal plant-based fat substitute in so many recipes. This made my product line much easier to market, given the increased interest in plant-based offerings over the past decade. And they’re an essential addition to fat-free baked goods, which otherwise suffer so often from a lack of taste or texture. The amazing thing about California raisins is that despite their size, they hold up well to processing, baking, and frying. This helps them keep their shape and form in anything you place them in. They’re ready to use right out of the bag, however there are times when you may want to break them down into a paste, which is particularly useful for sweetening cookies, sauces, and virtually anything that would normally call for dates.

California raisins are the ideal ingredient for so many reasons:

• They are a great binding agent in sweet and savoury dishes, due to their ability to create just the right firm texture

• Their soft skin is impervious to moisture migration, so adding them to recipes won’t negatively impact your ratios

• Their versatility allows bakers to do everything on the flavour spectrum, from making subtle changes in a dish, to a dramatic addition that defines the tasting experience

About Chef Nelita Silva:

Recently, I demonstrated some unique treats at the Bakery Showcase Tradeshow in Toronto This was an opportunity to share my passion for all that naturally sun-dried California raisins can do for your bakery. I brought some samples of my Raisin Fudge Brownie, an original take on a bakery classic. With a reasonable cost per serving under $2.00, it’s ideal for a small bakery, and it can be scaled up for larger operations as well. With some recipes, including this one, I prefer to plump the raisins by reconstituting them in liquid, either boiling water or raisin juice Since California raisins stand up so well to high temperature baking, I also shared an Oatmeal Raisin Donut. This little treat demonstrated how the combination of oats and raisins can thrive outside of the classic cookie.

These days, I’m not operating a bakery, but as a professor in Centennial College’s School of Hospitality, Tourism and Culinary Arts, I’m sharing my expertise with students as they learn the essentials of baking. And whether it’s fellow baking professionals, customers or students, I always share and demonstrate the incredible versatility of California raisins. I’ve found that students in particular are amazed at all we can do with California raisins, when they’re just thinking about cookies and butter tarts!

Timeless & cost-effective

With the myriad of voices clamouring for our attention as baking professionals, it’s vital that we choose quality ingredients that stand the test of time. Ingredients with a longer shelf life, adaptable for sweet or savoury treats, and ideal for everything from rich desserts to fat free or plant-based offerings. Versatile, functional, delicious, include California raisins in your baking journey.

Chef Nelita Silva is an award-winning chef who has worked in the culinary arts since 2008. A graduate of the Certified Chef de Cuisine Program at Liaison College in Hamilton, Ontario, Nelita has enjoyed a variety of work in food service where her creativity and attention to detail have contributed to her success in both the culinary and baking worlds.

THE AUTOMATION DECISION

When is it best to automate if you are a small, growing baking business?

Automation is never a one-size-fits-all. When it comes time to decide on which processes to automate, or even semi-automate, it generally comes down to a few contributing ingredients: production throughput, quality, consistency and delivery times.

And remember, even though there may be a general consensus that it’s time to automate, seeing this automation in action may still be up to a year away, or even more depending on the depth of automation you are wishing to implement.

Being proactive pays off. Put together a list of products or processes you wish to automate, then start having conversations with equipment manufacturers. Have a sales rep come and walk your production floor and provide consultations on where, when and what it makes sense to automate.

Look for equipment that grows with your business and equipment that is versatile. For example, Apex Motion Control’s Baker-Bot can be easily moved throughout your facility and automates such processes as tray handling — moving trays from a conveyor to a baker’s rack or from a baker’s rack to a conveyor and helping decorate cakes and cookies by simply drawing your pattern on a tablet.

COST

Always consider and look for equipment that offers a quick return on investment. But how quick is quick?

This is where you will need to do some math. Calculate the costs associated with the process or processes you want to automate. Labour, ingredient waste, training, labour, injuries, shortages/overtime…you get the picture. When comparing manual labour and automation, it generally takes about a year (sometimes more, sometimes less) to start seeing your return on invest-

You may consider automating the cake-layering process with a conveyor so that the layers are handled less, and consistently stacked on top of one another.

ment pay directly to your bottom line. Keep in mind that there are choices available for leasing or rent-to-own equipment options.

SPACE

Do you have the space in your current facility to implement automation equipment or will you have to consider expanding or even moving? If you are tight on space and are not ready to move, look at equipment that can do the job within a small footprint. Automation doesn’t mean giant production lines with miles of conveyors and equipment. With so much technology available today, automation can even be the size of a person, like Collaborative Robots, or Cobots, for example. More often than not, you will be able to find equipment that will work within your space constraints.

WATCH AND LISTEN

Sometimes your best tool for gauging when to automate is your team of production workers. What are they saying? Are they calling in sick more often, producing inconsistent products, working a lot of overtime, filing more injury claims or exhibiting low morale? It’s one thing to be aware of the throughput of your production floor, but it’s another thing to also be aware and attentive to how this throughput is actually being accomplished.

There will be resistance from some of the staff out of fear of losing their job or being replaced by a machine. This is your opportunity to repurpose your workers to more value-added positions. It’s a win-win situation.

CONSISTENCY

One of the biggest advantages in automating is an uptick in the consistency of your products. Equipment does not think or bring emotions or decisions into repetitive tasks. A piece of equipment is programmed and it repeats that exact task each and every time. For example, removing the labour-intensive and sensitive task of layering cake layers on top of another iced layer of cake as it moves down a conveyor line. This poses risk for repetitive stress and breakage (ingredient loss).

Instead, consider automating this process with a cake-layering conveyor so that the layers are handled less, and consistently stacked on top of one another as they move down the line to the icing and decorating area . . . which, by the way, can also be automated.

While there are many obstacles and factors to consider before, during and after, automation can be your most effective tool when looking to increase production, help with labour shortages and control repetitive stress injuries all while creating a consistent product. / BJ

New Canadian candy makers share their joy in crafting the perfect confections | BY KAREN BARR

THE SWEET LIFE

Within the industry there are murmurs that candy making is a lost art. This is not true. Across Canada new shops are opening, as talented candy makers share their joy in crafting the perfect confections.

CANDYLABS

Candylabs in Montreal is known for its signature rock candy, all hand made in the store. Owner Lin Geng studied to be an accountant, but plans changed. “I fell in love with candy making during a trip to Europe. My wife and I then flew to Australia to learn the skills,” he remembers.

Candylabs opened eight years ago and today the team of six produces 200 kilograms of candy per week.

To make the candy, hot, boiling sugar is placed on a slab of granite to cool, before food colouring is added. “We add citric acid to the candy to make it more robust,” Geng explains. “We stretch the gigantic piece of candy on a hook, to put tiny air bubbles into the sugar, so it becomes shinier and crunchier when you eat it.”

Customers can choose candies by the flavour or by the design in the candy’s centre. When asked to select a favourite, he says, “It’s quite hard for me to choose among the 75 flavours that we currently have. I would say that my personal favourites are watermelon, key lime, and strawberry-kiwi.” Mixed packages are also available such as classic fruit mix, tropical mix and citrus mix.

As for the most popular designs, Geng says, “That’s easy. The panda, the dog and the pig.” And while many of the designs are intricate, the rainbow centre is structurally simplistic, yet with more colours.

To achieve the rainbow centre, assorted colours of candy are made, stretched, flattened and then layered. “Water is like superglue to candy. We use the water from a sponge to stick one piece of candy on to another. You have to be careful, because once they are stuck, you can’t separate them anymore.”

Next, the candy is rolled on a heated surface to maintain its shape. Each end is cut to inspect and ensure the interior is

set correctly. Then, a transparent candy sheet is rolled around the rainbow. The gigantic piece of candy, now weighing 10 kilograms, must be stretched into thin rods. Finally, each rod is hand cut into individual candies.

VOLIO’S CONFECTIONS

Sarah Foy was born in Wigan, England, and like a character from a Roald Dahl novel, she grew up close to a small, old-fashioned candy factory. Uncle Joe’s, which opened in 1898, fulfilled her childhood sugar fantasies. Watching homemade candies being made by hand, she indulged in thousands of Mint Balls, made from the family’s original secret recipe. “When I moved to Canada, I missed the candy. I couldn’t find it here, so I had to make my own.”

Poring over old British cookbooks and watching YouTube videos became an obsession, and she practised her new skills diligently. “I still can’t make the Mint Balls like Uncle Joe’s,” she admits. Her candy-making efforts, however, resulted in the 2019 opening of her own tiny 400-square-foot shop, Voilo’s Confections, in Calgary, with her

At Candylabs in Montreal, customers can choose candies by the flavour or by the design in the candy’s centre.

business partner and boyfriend David Sullivan. He has now learned the art of candy making and helps Foy in the kitchen.

The hard candies hand crafted at Volio’s Confections come in a variety of 50 flavours. Foy continues to enjoy the challenge of creating new images in the centres. “I think about breaking every image into shapes. To make grapes, I need 10 circles of purple and two green triangle stems. Each strip of candy is built upon another. I need to keep it moving, and warm, or it will go flat.”

As for the top-selling hard candies, Foy says, “I have to keep salted caramel in the store or customers are mad at me!” Her two personal favourite flavours are raspberry-black currant and mango-coconut. A recent development is a hard candy with 20 fruit flavours combined.

“Lollipops are one of my favourite candies to make,” says Foy. “They are fun, because I get to play with stripes and various designs.”

Volio’s sells Whirly Lollipops, the swirly, colourful type that kids gravitate straight toward. Adults can savour Boozy Pops, in lime margarita or bourbon passionfruit lemonade. “These are really popular during Calgary Stampede.”

Customers are in love with her cushiony sponge toffee, although it can be temperamental to make. “It is weather dependent. It needs a cool dry day, and a fan blowing on it,” she says. The sponge toffee is dressed up with a coating of white, milk or dark chocolate. She also adds flavours such as birthday

Sarah Foy of Volio’s Confections in Calgary was born in Wigan, England, and like a character from a Roald Dahl novel, she grew up close to a small, old-fashioned candy factory. Uncle Joe’s. “When I moved to Canada, I missed the candy. I couldn’t find it here, so I had to make my own,” she says.

cake or salted caramel.

And then there are marshmallows. “I always thought I hated marshmallows. When I had a homemade marshmallow for the first time, it changed my life! Turns out I just hated the store-bought variety.”

To make her marshmallows Foy boils sugar and glucose, which she slowly adds to bloomed gelatin. “Then, I whip the hell out of it for 20 minutes!” she exclaims. For chocolate marshmallows, chocolate chips added at the end result in a partial melting, allowing for texture and bite. Customers rave over the matcha white chocolate marshmallows or the raspberry hibiscus lemonade variety.

TOUT DE SWEET CONFECTIONS

After reading about organic cotton candy, Jeanette Miller became curious. After experimenting with candy making in her kitchen, to the delight of her family, her skills progressed. Later, she took her marshmallows to a local farmers market in her hometown of Victoria.

Today, at her retail location Tout de Sweet Confections, her old-fashioned candies are in demand. “My marshmallows are unique because they are allergen friendly, without corn, gluten, nuts or peanuts. Making candy that is free from a few core allergens, as well as being organic, has become a major driving force, and has definitely helped me push through the obstacles

Marshmallows from Victoria’s Tout de Sweet are unique because they are allergen friendly, without corn, gluten, nuts or peanuts.

I've faced being a food entrepreneur. But each time I receive a note that says how appreciative someone is that they can eat or give my candy to someone who has a major allergy, it reminds me of why I took this route, and it gives me a little push to keep going.”

Then she adds, “When I started my business, I wanted a nostalgic play on candy, with modern flavours.” The marshmallows are available in vanilla, toasted coconut, chai tea and at Christmastime in gingerbread flavour. A small message on her website reminds customers that coconut is classified as a seed in Canada.

“I tend to like floral flavours,” says Miller, before describing her caramel flavours including lavender, rosemary, London Fog, cherry, espresso cardamon and salted black licorice.

Gumdrops have turned out to be the number 1 seller in the last six months. “They are bigger than the typical gumdrop, with way more flavour. They are a buoyant candy with a chewy textured. The factory-made packaged type is usually way too soft or way too hard,” she comments. Some of the tempting flavours include black currant, sour cherry, orange creamsicle, champagne for a celebrational pop, and holiday hibiscus for Christmas.

Preparation of Christmas candies begins in August, and Miller calls in a part-time assistant to help with creations.

As we reflect on the confections our parents and grandparents enjoyed, it’s wonderful to imagine the joy candy makers bring to both children and adults today, by reintroducing traditions. Maybe this article will inspire the Willy Wonka in you. / BJ

UNDERSTANDING THE ARTISAN OPPORTUNITY

Canada’s retail bakery market, like those of many other countries, is largely served by industrial producers. But demand for artisanal breads has been reinvigorated, and they now hold huge promise for bakers both large and small. So what’s behind the opportunity, and how can bakers tap into it?

THE MIGHT OF THE MEGATREND…

While artisanal foods often occupy a niche, we have seen it change as consumer priorities evolve. For some years, Puratos’ proprietary Taste Tomorrow research has tracked the growing importance of sustainability, health and wellness, and cleaner label to consumers. Today, for instance, 55 per cent of Canadians look for foods that are produced locally, and similar proportions want to know how they are made and assurance that it was done with care for the environment.

…AND THE POWER OF A PANDEMIC

The coronavirus outbreak intensified many megatrends but was disruptive too. Locked down, with more time on their hands and needing distraction, more consumers began learning about baking, and then experimenting with it at home. Many households, for example, tried developing their own sourdough starters. Boredom became curiosity; curiosity became action.

The pandemic also triggered a sharp uptick in health-consciousness, especially in the areas of immunity and gut health. Taste Tomorrow indicates 83 per cent of Canadians recognize the positive effect that fibre has on digestion, and its further connection to overall health. It also tells us that one in two North Americans believes food produced with local ingredients is

The addition of sprouted grains can deliver great flavour and texture while also enhancing nutritional value.

better not only for their health, but for the environment too.

Reviewing this and more data, a clear picture emerges of what consumers want in 2022: healthier and “simpler” breads, produced close by, with local, familiar ingredients, and with superb taste and texture. Step forward, the artisan loaf.

PERFECTING THE ART OF ARTISAN

The ideal artisan bread has four key characteristics. One key element is its appearance – we eat with our eyes and 58 per cent of Canadians believe food that looks good will taste good too. A rustic, irregular shaped loaf with a signature crisp crust and a dusting of flour, grains or seeds on top signals craftsmanship and quality. Taste must also be perfected, as it is still the top driver of all bakery purchases. In artisan loaves, sourdough, grains and seeds can all contribute to unique and mouthwatering tastes. The addition of sprouted grains can take breads to the next level – delivering great flavour and texture while also enhancing nutritional value. Health is the third cornerstone of artisan breads. This is where grains and seeds can shine, offering highly desirable

nutrients such as fibre, protein and various vitamins and minerals – each grain or seed playing its own role in the goodness of the bread. All are widely known and have scientifically proven health benefits, making for persuasive healthy positionings.

A story is the final, and most intangible, attribute of a perfect artisan bread. Linking the desires for traceability, authenticity, local provenance and emotional connection, storytelling is an effective marketing tool for bakers.

GRAINS AND SEEDS: THE PANACEA FOR DIFFERENTIATING ARTISAN BREADS?

Sourdough has long been a cornerstone of successful artisanal baking. But combining it with grains and seeds can deliver on all the qualities consumers expect from artisan breads – incredible taste and texture, long-lasting freshness and enhanced health. Puratos’s innovative Softgrain solutions, for instance, are selected whole grains and seeds that have been meticulously cooked in sourdough. There is now renewed focus on these natural ingredients as science continues to uncover more of their health benefits, technology improves their functionality and supply chain developments allow better access to them than ever.

Ultimately, grains and seeds provide all four characteristics of the ideal artisan loaf, and more. Leveraging the potential of these “power ingredients,” especially in combination with sourdough for its distinctive taste and texture, constitutes a sound foundation for successful artisanal baking. / BJ

Danielle Aucoin is bakery product manager at Puratos, an international group which supplies innovative food ingredients and services for the bakery, patisserie and chocolate sectors.

INspiring

What can you expect from the largest trade event for the grain-based foods industry in the Western Hemisphere? Everything you need to take your ingenuity to new heights. With the latest innovations, new ingredient formulations, game-changing insights and an unbeatable sense of community, it’s a one-stop shop for all baking professionals. Join the global industry in Las Vegas, where you’ll find the power to keep your business soaring. it’s

¦ concepts for success ¦

BY DIANE CHIASSON

FIVE EASY WAYS TO MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR OUTDOOR SPACE

A welcoming patio is a great way to attract customers as it serves as a giant billboard for your bakery operation

The warmer weather is finally here, and I cannot remember a patio season that will be more important than this summer. Everyone by now is extremely tired of masked waiters, plexiglass shields and tables spaced six feet apart. Hence the demand to sit outside in the fresh air for outdoor dining will skyrocket. With the COVID-19 pandemic still in the air, outdoor eating is still a better, safer option than serving customers in an enclosed area. To survive coronavirus summer, restaurant, bakery, and café operators are rushing to claim space for outdoor seating. A welcoming patio is a great way to attract customers as it serves as a giant billboard for your bakery operation.

}The best outdoor patio lighting is done in layers. Each different type of light creates a specific, targeted effect.

Adding outdoor dining space to your bakery shop will allow your bakery to maximize revenue, and it will potentially increase your profits by as much as 65 per cent. So, I suggest you pick up a few tables and invite customers to sip and dine on your sidewalk – or even build a patio or deck if you have the space. Depending on your circumstances, your options may fall into one of six categories: front porch, back yard, sidewalk, curb lane, parking lot or rooftop.

Here are five easy ways to make the most of your outdoor space this summer.

1. GET YOUR SIDEWALK CAFÉ PERMIT

Before you start planning your dream patio, you must consider any local, provincial or federal regulations regarding patios at restaurants, bakery facilities and cafés. Based on the area where you operate your bakery shop,

the rules and regulations for retrofitting a patio, sidewalk, curb lane, parking lot, or even installing or expanding decks on private property into a dining area for your bakery operation may differ. Contact your local authorities about the licences or permits you may need to get and discuss the regulations for running outdoor eating.

Here are a few regulatory issues you should know about when opening your patio:

• Can you make your outdoor patio dog-friendly?

• Can you serve alcoholic drinks or offer guests BYOB service (depending on each province) in your bakery restaurant?

• What kind of permits will you need to add electricity and plumbing to your outdoor patio?

• Are there noise ordinances in your area?

2. DESIGN YOUR DINING AREA TO PROVIDE THE BEST EXPERIENCE

I want you to think about your bakery patio just as you would your home patio. Think of your outdoor setting as a natural extension of your bakery’s interior. Stick to the same colour schemes and use similar patterns and furniture as your interior. While you may be tempted to fit as many tables into the patio as possible to maxi-

mize the number of customers, overcrowding the space will negatively affect customers and employees at your bakery. Try to limit the number of tables, so you have room to space them appropriately.

Before you can design a patio and start buying some furniture, you need to take a step back and take the time to evaluate how you want to use the space. The idea is to create a design that will best serve your customers. It’s no longer enough to put up a fence and throw out a bunch of tables and chairs. Instead, think about your appliances, equipment, electrical work, plumbing, food serving stations, potted plants and flowers, strings of lights, space heaters, furniture, dividers, permanent or portable fence, and shade to protect your customers from the sun and rain.

3. CHOOSE PROPER PATIO FURNITURE AND DECOR

When it comes to furniture materials, you will most likely want to keep these in line with the concept and style of your bakery and stay consistent across all of your patio furniture. For example, it would be best to place a mixture of small and large tables on your patio, as this will attract parties of varying sizes. I also suggest mixing styles and qualities of furniture. Furniture material comes in many different options, such as wood, metal and plastic. Tables and chairs made of aluminum will last longer than wood and are easier to maintain. Place colourful cushions on chairs to make your guests’ eating experience more

comfortable and exciting. Decide which material is suitable for your space, and assess your budget, brand and the weather patterns in your area.

Do you want to use picnic tables and benches? What about combining your picnic tables with some traditional tables and chairs. If using plastic chairs, try to pair them with some metal and wood furniture.

Perhaps you may consider adding dividing walls or creating unique zones between seats to make your customers feel safe. Consider using shrubs, flowers, planters, garden boxes, hanging plants, screens, umbrellas and furniture to separate tables.

4. CREATE COLOURFUL AND ELEGANT OUTDOOR LIGHTING

Customers should not have to squint to read your menu. It’s a big mistake to pay more attention to your indoor lighting than your outdoor lighting. Lighting has always played a huge part in the overall dining experience. The best outdoor patio lighting is done in layers. Each different type of light creates a specific, targeted effect. Use your patio lighting to set the mood for your customers. Make your patio noticeable at night with stringed lights or lighted signage. Walk the path your customers take, from the parking lot, walkways to your bakery, and their way to the outdoor patio area and then back inside to the restrooms.

Use smart and trendy energy-saving LED strings of bistro lights, and overhead soft ambient lighting can be strategically placed on exterior walls and expertly hidden in the overhead beams of a patio cover or pergola. You can also install twinkling starlight lights within trees, foliage, fences or roof soffits that will add great ambience to your outdoor space. Consider adding flameless tea light candles or batteryoperated candles to every table to enhance your outdoor space.

5. INCORPORATE SHADE

Eating outdoors will provide your customers with natural light and fresh air. Unfortunately, no location is immune to inclement weather. There can be some downsides to being outside, such as weather conditions that can change suddenly or days with too much sun or days when your customers may be drenched with rain. Make sure you have proper umbrel-

las, tents or awnings set up on your patio. Today, many retailers sell extra-large round or rectangular umbrellas with offset telescopic arms that are much easier to set up and move around and do not need to be put directly into the table. If space is an issue, consider installing pole-less umbrellas that are much easier to store over the winter. You can also consider installing a retractable awning that you can adjust to keep the sunlight in a perfect position throughout the day. / BJ

Diane Chiasson, FCSI, president of Chiasson Consultants Inc., has been helping foodservice, hospitality and retail operators increase sales for over 35 years by providing innovative and revenue-increasing food service and retail merchandising programs, interior design, branding, menu engineering, marketing and promotional campaigns. Contact her at 416-926-1338, send her an email at chiasson@chiassonconsultlants.com, or visit www.chiassonconsultants.com

INSPIRATIONAL BAKERY OF THE YEAR

Presented by journal BAKERS

of using them in edible goods, how and why bakers may want to experiment with baking with cannabis.

Chef Don Gingrich underlined the importance of understanding what cannabis is in its raw form versus its decarboxylated form. “When you’re receiving raw cannabis in its raw form it’s THC, so it’s an acidic form. It needs to turn into its alkaline form and the only way we do that is through heat and time,” said Gingrich, a cannabis cooking and infusion educator, edibles consultant and certified chef who sat on the Canadian Standards Council for the regulation of cannabis edibles. “Those are the two things that can then take that acid and turn it into an alkaloid. We’re not limited to just using flour now for edibles: there are so many other products, extracts, distillates and isolates.”

}now oversees CannSell, the sole mandated certification program for all cannabis retail employees in Ontario. Deonarine said the cannabis market for edibles is quite hot: “I think opening it up for restaurateurs to provide cannabis infused experience at the culinary level is needed in Canada. I think it’s a great option not only to provide a

main stage that day. “It’s light, it’s airy. It’s, it’s easy to conceal. You can dose it out. So I think that's a very tangible way of conserving its potency.”

TALKING TRENDS

Readers of Jane Dummer’s Final Proof column got a treat as the Registered Dietitian and longtime

From e-commerce and added nutrition to emotional well-being and good for the planet, Registered Dietitian Jane Dummer shared why these trends are important to your bakery.

safe experience, but also to provide an experience for people to consume cannabis beyond smoking. There are many people doing this, at such a high level where you can sit down and have an experience that not only makes you feel good, but that tastes amazing.”

Andy Deonarine consults with Ontario retailers and companies that trade on the Canadian Stock Exchange and

Chef Patrick Newton is a classically trained chef who regularly bakes with cannabis: One of his favourite recipes is gougères, or cheese puffs, which he demonstrated at the

columnist presented a look ahead at baking trends and suggested ways you can act on these shifts in the market to ensure your bakery or bakery-café thrives into the future. From e-commerce and added nutrition to emotional well-being and good for the planet, the well-connected Pod to Plate Food Consultant shared why these trends are important to your bakery and how to make the most of these growing opportunities.

BUZZING SHOW FLOOR

On the show floor, attendees enjoyed demonstrations at the main stage. Baking professionals learned edible image techniques they could use to create impressive designs on cakes and cookies for corporate clients (with award-winning cake artist Justine Martin), professional techniques for shaping and scoring your artisan bread (with Master Baker Marcus Mariathas) and how to bake sweet profiteroles or savoury gougères while better understanding the relationship of fats to cannabinoids (with Chef Patrick Newton of the Food Network).

Fans of Anna Olson had the perfect chance to meet the well-respected baker, author and television star at the BAC’s booth where Olson signed copies of her newest book.

NATIONAL RECOGNITION

The industry received recognition on a national scale when Francis Drouin,

Justine Martin of Guilty Pleasures Bakeshop gives the keynote talk.

Celebrity baker, author and television star Anna Olson talks with a fellow baker and fan at the BAC’s booth where Olson signed copies of her newest book.

Parliamentary Secretary to the Minister of Food and Agriculture and a member of the standing committee on Agriculture and Agri-Food, opened the show on Day 2 and met with BAC Executive Director Martin Barnett to discuss issues of importance to the industry.

Westside Bakery of Edmonton was revealed as our new Inspirational Bakery of the Year! Bakers Journal and founding sponsor Ardent Mills together congratulate Leeanne Tucker, president of wholesale commercial bakery that grew out of a desire to chase a dream and snowballed when Tucker and husband and business development and marketing manager Travis Blake, put their focus squarely on the community. Learn more about this bakery with heart in the July edition.

ATTENDEES INSPIRED

Judging by the buzz on the show floor, Bakery Showcase 2022 was proof positive that in-person events are essential.

“The event was fabulous!” said Dinah Hamed, who wears many hats as bread baker, pastry chef, master of education student and Red

Left: Parliamentary Secretary to the Minister of Food and Agriculture Francis Drouin meets BAC's Martin Barnett. Above: One of two demos sponsored by California Raisins and the Peanut Bureau of Canada.

Seal Baker-Patissier candidate. “I had a wonderful time and thank you again for inviting me to join the education session!”

Attendee Susan Cavanaugh, who recently started her own

business, Bake and Create, in Windsor, Ont., said, “It is so helpful to find all of the products I learned about at school in one place. I need the full two days to take it all in.” / BJ

For more events coverage please visit www.bakersjournal.com.

PROFESSIONAL BREAD BAKING

Professional Bread Baking is not only a cookbook providing an array of recipes and formulas for finished loaves.

This title dives deeper into the discussion about bread, providing a detailed reference that will be indispensable for a baker.

Written by an Associate Professor at the Culinary Institute of America, Professional Bread Baking provides the tools needed to mix, ferment, shape, proof, and bake exceptional artisanal bread.

$84.95

Item #118435878

BY JANE DUMMER, RD

THE BENEFITS OF FERMENTATION

What you may not know about this delicate stage of dough making could cost your products flavour, texture and aroma

Dating back to the Egyptians with records of both beer and bread making, fermented foods are among humanity’s oldest attempts to preserve food. Fast forward to today, when, with the help of social media, many people are experimenting with sourdough starters, creating fermented vegetables and enjoying fermented dairy.

As a result, I thought it was time to revisit fermentation. Primary fermentation involves micro-organisms, such as yeast and bacteria, enzymatically breaking down carbohydrates to produce carbon dioxide, organic acids or alcohol. Fermentation contributes to food sustainability through preservation, safety and the production of food components. The desirable flavour of fermented foods is predominantly due to the acid, sugar and volatile flavour compounds. As the bacteria and/or yeast consumes sugars, nonvolatile acids and volatile aroma compounds are formed.

}hand, longer fermentation times will improve flavour and texture. With several careful steps and stages, the artisan bread process can take up to 48 hours, but the shorter mix times and slow fermentation add up to flavourful bread rich in aroma and texture.”

In addition to the preservation effect, unique flavours and textures that fermentation brings to foods, it has only been recently that scientific investigations have confirmed fermented foods may provide nutritional and health benefits. Fermented foods ranging from sourdough bread to yogurt are increasingly being seen as having benefits from digestive health to immune health. Fermented foods contain various amounts of enzymes, prebiotics, probiotics and vitamins.

Fermentation is a form of pre-digestion. Certain foods may have excellent nutritional profiles but are difficult for

Fermented foods are increasingly being seen as having benefits from digestive health to immune health.

Fermentation contributes to food sustainability through preservation, safety and the production of food components.

Every baker recognizes fermentation as a necessary step in the bread-baking process. However, what you may not know about this delicate stage of dough making could end up costing you flavour, texture and aroma in your end product. Bill Weekley, a certified master baker and senior scientist at General Mills Convenience and Foodservice, says: “A shorter fermentation process leads to less taste, texture and quality. For instance, mass-produced bread is churned out quickly to produce large quantities for distribution, resulting in bread that is generally lacking in flavour. In these cases, a dough conditioner speeds up fermentation so that it just needs to be proofed. This step saves on time but does not allow for extended flavour and quality to develop through the fermentation process. On the other

humans to digest. Paul Bright, bakingHUB and innovation manager at AB Mauri North America, explains: “Nearly 15 per cent of the population suffer from Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS) that may be related to wheat sensitivity. Common symptoms of IBS include abdominal pain and even flatulence. This is an area where baked goods with extended fermentation times may have a positive effect to reduce these indicators. Sourdough breads fermented with lactobacillus and yeast and yeast-only leavened breads with fermentation times of more than four hours can have an effect to reduce the compounds in wheat flour that can trigger these symptoms, and therefore, lessen them.”

Bright adds: “Other positive attributes of extended fermentation times of baked products relate to the organoleptic improvements of baked product texture and flavour. These improvements can be associated with both lactobacillus and yeast fermentation by-products such as organic acids and alcohols. Bakers can achieve this by bulk fermenting dough

inoculated with bakers yeast and allowing it to ferment or proof for several hours prior to forming, final proofing and baking. This is referred to as the ‘straight dough’ process within the baking industry. If bakers utilize this process, they will have to initially cut back on overall yeast usage as well as water levels as the dough will become softer over fermentation time. Bakers should also control fermentation temperature during bulk fermentation to keep the temperature between 70 and 80 F (21 and 27 C) before forming and final proofing at higher temperatures, typically between 90 and 100 F (32 to 38 C).”

People are open-minded and crave old techniques that create new breads with better taste, texture and enhanced nutritional value. Whether it is for preservation, flavour, texture or health reasons, or a combination of these reasons, fermented foods will continue to thrive and increase globally. Growth in fermented foods, including artisan bread, will expand as researchers learn more about the relationship between the composition of the food, the human gut and health. / BJ

Jane Dummer, RD, known as the Pod to Plate Food Consultant, collaborates and partners with the food and nutrition industry across North America. janedummer.com

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