Here’s
It’s
Accomplish more in less
Pulse/whole wheat blended breads cooling on a rack at the Canadian International Grains Institute.
BY LAURA AIKEN
DID YOU KNOW…?
Iwas privy to a conversation that I fear is becoming all too typical. Well, I wasn’t so much privy as I happened to overhear an exchange between customer and hairdresser in a salon (an iconic hub of gossip). The exchange between patron and stylist went something like this:
Hairdresser: “That’s good you used ginger.”
Customer: “Yes, it’s good for so many things.”
Hairdresser, excitedly: “Did you know it’s a blood thinner?”
Customer, impressed: “No, wow!”
I’ve heard of ginger as an aid to curbing nausea, but I had never heard that it was a blood thinner. It was a surprising nutritional claim, and I wondered if it was true.
A quick Internet search turned up the University of Maryland’s Medical Center page on ginger (this I would consider to be a tempered, likely accurate source that cited 33 sources to back up its debriefing on the herb. However, there is always the question of whether it carries the latest information). Here’s what the Center had to say about ginger being a blood thinner: “Preliminary studies suggest that ginger may lower cholesterol and help prevent blood from clotting. That can help treat heart disease where blood vessels can become blocked and lead to heart attack or stroke. Other studies suggest that ginger may help improve blood sugar control among people with Type 2 diabetes. More research is needed to determine whether ginger is safe or effective for heart disease and diabetes.”
The statement “ginger is a blood thinner” is patently untrue, although there is a suggestion of truth in the potential, pending further investigation. How often does this type of “did you know” misinformation spread from one person to another? It’s safe to say much too often, when you factor in the high engagement people have with nutrition right now and the prevailing warp speed of social media.
There is a role to play in offering “did you knows” that come from solid sources and are cushioned by potential of that which we do not know.
I have no idea whether the customer passed on the piece of trivia, looked it up, privately dismissed it, or only pretended to be impressed. I do know that the words “maybe” were sorely missing from the source, and these types of “did you know…?” definitive proclamations should be questioned in particular when they seem surprising. The repercussions of anecdotal tall tales just confuse the already extraordinarily complicated topic of nutrition. There are challenges to nutritional studies (such as bias in self-reporting), to all scientific undertakings really, and science rarely makes the incredible breakthroughs we are often lead to believe in the headlines. It is also the nature of science to be wrong, to overturn itself. This does not make it bad science. There would be no progress without it.
The industry may have no role to play in the private musings of one citizen to another, but there is always a role to be played in seeking out evidence-based information, no matter how tempered and correlating it may be. There is a role to play in offering your customers “did you knows” that come from solid sources and are cushioned by potential of that which we do not know. And it is from this potential of what we do not know that discoveries are made and exciting novelties come to life.
One ingredient that is getting a well-established vote for health is pulses. This year was dedicated the International Year of Pulses by the United Nations, and bakers and pastry chefs have been rolling up their sleeves to see what they can do with nutritious and numerous pulse flours. Turn to our story on page 21 and the Final Proof column on page 30 to learn more about how to incorporate pulses into your baking. There is plenty of credible, factual information backing up pulses as being healthy, and I’d say they are worth passing along with a “did you know?”
MARCH 2016 | VOL. 76, NO. 2
EDITOR | Laura Aiken editor@bakersjournal.com 416-522-1595 1-888-599-2228 ext. 250
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Wheat genome sequencing hits a milestone
The International Wheat Genome Sequencing Consortium (IWGSC) has produced a whole genome assembly of bread wheat, the most widely grown cereal in the world. This announcement signals a major boost to accelerating global research into crop improvement. The IWGSC announced that a high quality bread wheat reference sequence will be available in less than two years.
“The new bread wheat de novo shotgun assembly made by NRGene represents a major breakthrough for the IWGSC integrated strategy towards delivering a high quality reference sequence for each of the 21 bread wheat chromosomes,” said Nils Stein, a co-leader of the project from IPK Gatersleben in Germany, in a news release.
Saskatchewan’s Crop Development Centre, Andrew Sharpe of the Global Institute for Food Security, and Jesse Poland of Kansas State University in the United States. Project participants also include researchers from Illumina; NRGene in Israel and the United States; Tel Aviv University in Israel; and the French National Institute for Agricultural Research (INRA).
strategy and accelerate the delivery of the sequence. Thus, this assembly comes exactly at the right time because it can be integrated with the IWGSC chromosome specific resources developed over the past 10 years [e.g., chromosome shotgun sequences, physical maps, and physical map-based sequencing] to deliver a high-quality reference sequence for the wheat genome in less than two years.”
The project consisted of producing a whole genome assembly of the bread wheat variety Chinese Spring, based on Illumina short sequence reads assembled with NRGene’s DeNovoMAGIC software.
The public-private collaborative project is coordinated by the IWGSC and co-led by Stein, Curtis Pozniak of the University of
Cambrian acquires N2 Ingredients
Cambrian Solutions recently purchased N2 Ingredients, a distributor of natural, organic and nutritional food ingredients. The food industry has been a strong foundation for Cambrian since its inception in 1995. Cambrian provides a wide range of ingredients and solutions to customers in the food industry. N2 Ingredients’ portfolio of all natural and certified organic ingredients is an exciting addition to Cambrian’s product offering, reported the company in a news release.
N2 Ingredients was founded in 2004 with the intention of providing Canadian food manufacturers with a diverse offering of all natural product alternatives and an emphasis on organic ingredients.
Funding for this project was provided by Genome Canada, Genome Prairie, Saskatchewan Ministry of Agriculture, the Saskatchewan and Alberta Wheat Development Commissions, and the Western Grains Research Foundation through the Canadian Triticum Applied Genomics (CTAG2) project, Kansas State University through the US National Science Foundation Plant Genome Research Program, and Illumina.
“The preliminary results obtained by NRGene are impressive,” said Kellye Eversole, IWGSC executive director, in a news release. “We have been waiting for a number of years to have a high quality whole genome sequence assembly that would complement our chromosome based
The whole genome assembly data will be integrated with physical-map based sequence data to produce a high-quality, ordered sequence for each wheat chromosome that precisely locates genes, regulatory elements, and markers along the chromosomes, providing invaluable tools for wheat breeders, reports the IWGSC.
“This new wheat genome sequence generated by the IWGSC and its partners is an important contribution to understanding the genetic blueprint of one of the world’s most important crops,” Pozniak said in the release. “It will provide wheat researchers with an exciting new resource to identify the most influential genes important to wheat adaptation, stress response, pest resistance, and improved yield.”
Join almost 5,000 baking & food industry professionals from retail, wholesale, commercial bakeries, grocery stores & foodservice outlets.
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Rustic cakes and metallic finishes lead spring wedding trends | BY
JULIE FITZ-GERALD
WEDDING TRENDS 2016
Weddings are known for glamour, but this year they promise to shine even brighter.
As vintage trends of the past settle into soft accents, brides and grooms across the country are bringing added glitz to the table with muted mixed metals. It’s a trend that Allyson Bobbitt, co-owner of Bobbette and Belle Artisanal Pastries in Toronto, is looking forward to.
Bobbitt and business partner Sarah Bell opened their bakery in 2010. With two locations and hundreds of wedding cake orders every year, the cake-designing duo stays current with the latest trends, often finding inspiration from high-end fashion runways.
“I think sparkling glitter is a big trend, so things like gold and mixed metals –that’s one of our favourite things coming up. In some of the cakes I’ve been designing for this year, I’m really working a lot with mixed metals and different textures, but at the same time still having it be subtle; so a little bit of sparkle, a little bit of texture and some shine,” Bobbitt says. “I love to use something I call ‘gilver,’ which is a mix of silver and gold that’s really pretty and very neutral.”
Shauna Austin, owner of City Girl Cakes in Dartmouth, N.S., is seeing a similar metallic trend on Canada’s East Coast.
}“Right now what I’m seeing from clients who are booking is blush, gold and white, or blush, cream and gold. I’m also seeing touches of metallics. Rustic but in a woodland way is trending right now out here. We’re still seeing the lace appliqués on wedding cakes as well as mostly white cakes with a really bright pop of colour,” she says.
Left: Yukiko Sekiya’s macaron cake with glints of gold is right on the money. Above: Shauna Austin’s square cake hits the mark with elegant modernity and rustic softened touches.
The beauty of fresh fruit is that it can easily carry over to the dessert table – a feature that has gained more focus and attention from brides and grooms in recent years.
the country.
Austin was named “Best Cake and Pastry Designer – Atlantic Canada” by the Canadian Wedding Industry Awards (CWIA) in 2014. While she loves to incorporate new trends, Austin says customers in her region tend to adopt trends later than those in other parts of
The personalization of wedding cakes is experiencing a surge in popularity. Austin has been asked to incorporate a teacup pattern that belonged to the bride’s grandmother onto a sentimental wedding cake and she has gone off the beaten path creating a motocross cake that featured a dirt biker spraying mud onto beautiful white tiers.
Back in Toronto, Bobbitt is noticing a demand for personalization – but in the form of art.
“Really taking a painting you would see on canvas, whether it’s something literal
like a flower pattern or something more abstract, and then transferring that to a cake. I think the types of edible colours that we’ve used have come so far over the years that it affords you a lot more options in terms of types of decorating. So I think a lot of interior design trends and things like that start to come into the wedding and cake world,” Bobbitt notes.
In 2015, the rustic-style “naked” cake rose to popularity and continues to be sought after, with its exposed layers artfully displaying the smooth buttercream icing on the inside. “In Ontario –and I think this would apply in other cities as well – we have our urban centres like Toronto where things can be a little more modern, but most places have a cottage country as well. So whether it’s sugar bush outside of Montreal or going up to Muskoka, those are really popular
destinations for weddings,” Bobbitt says. “If you’re having a wedding there, you want it to fit into the surroundings, so the rustic trend will always be around.”
In Montreal, Yukiko Sekiya of Yuki Bakery is noticing similar trends, but with a decidedly French twist.
“Elegant, rustic glamour with deep colours, bold designs and use of metallics. In 2015, the popular style was more casual rustic with romantic, vintage accents like lace and fresh flowers. Ivory,
blush pink and gold were the popular colours,” she says via e-mail.
Sekiya, winner of CWIA’s “Best Wedding Cake Design” category for Quebec in 2014, notes the use of fresh fruits as fillings is another trend she’s seeing with her clients. “I have seen more and more couples looking for sweet tables that showcase truly delicious desserts and indulgent treats on more simple, yet beautiful, rustic settings,” Sekiya says. “Desserts can be made with
fresh seasonal fruits, such as strawberries in the early summer, and pumpkin or apple for fall weddings. Fresh fruit decorations will be more popular [this year] than royal icing.”
With couples giving as much thought to desserts as they are to their wedding cakes, cake designers can bring more creativity and design to the table than ever before. “People don’t want dessert to be an afterthought, which it kind of was before. I think they want it to have a ‘wow factor.’ And with the popularity of Pinterest and Instagram, people love to have something really pretty to show on these tables.”
Bobbette and Belle offers a wide selection of desserts for clients to choose from, and anything sold in their shop can be done in two-bite versions for events. With the addition of artfully designed desserts, Bobbitt says many clients will choose to scale down the wedding cake.
“People realize that maybe not all of the wedding cake will be eaten or served, or people are going to want the mini desserts, so we can bring down the size of the actual wedding cake.”
While wedding cakes are being forced to share the limelight with dessert tables, they continue to be the showstopper. With more and more bakers focused on ensuring the inside of the cake tastes as delicious as the outside looks, wedding guests are once again lining up for a slice.
“It’s almost like wedding cake has gotten a bad rap,” Bobbitt says. “I feel like Sarah and I are trying to change that perception. We want people to taste the cake and say, ‘Wow, this is actually delicious cake,’ so that’s always our main focus: making sure we have perfect, exact layers with an inch high of cake and a quarter inch of buttercream. We measure everything so it’s exact and level and then also focusing on freshness, moistness and quality of ingredients.”
With 99 per cent of Bobbitt’s clients ordering different tiers in different flavours, such as vanilla with mango and passion fruit or chocolate with raspberry and salted caramel, wedding cakes are proving their worth inside and out.
As mixed metals offset rustic designs and wedding cakes become more personalized, this year’s wedding season is sure to shine. / BJ
Julie Fitz-Gerald is a freelance writer based in Uxbridge, Ont., and a regular contributor to Bakers Journal.
¦ concepts for success ¦
BY DIANE CHIASSON
DRIVING SALES
Got the postholidays sales blues? Here are eight great ways to make the most of your downtime.
There are certain times of the year when business is relatively slow. These slowdown periods are a common cause of cash flow shortages for many bakeries. Don’t let the seasonal slumps get you down! Use this off-season time to properly market your bakery and get ready for your peak season. To keep the income coming in, you need to think creatively. Here are eight great ways to boost your sales after the holidays.
1. REVIEW GOALS
This is a great time to review your business goals, increase your employee training, have brainstorming sessions with your team, catch-up on your administrative or marketing tasks, reassess your inventory, and look at new ways of setting some new objectives. Use this time carefully and review with your entire team which areas drive the most profits in your bakery. Get as much information as possible from each member of your team and write down every idea and comment. Don’t be shy to ask for input and make sure that you listen carefully to what everyone on your team has to say. Try to brainstorm on some new, unique and exciting ideas to increase revenues. Discuss new products that could be developed, products that could be taken out of your inventory or any new demographic areas where you can promote your business.
to come back for some more just before your busy season.
3. INVESTIGATE ONLINE
Use this quiet time to learn more about your customers. Continue using your website and social media networks to draw more customers. Take the time to analyze your Facebook likes and your current fans and to check out the most frequent hashtags used by your followers on Twitter. Email marketing is the most effective way to advertise your online business. Try to post some of your regular and new bakery products on a daily basis on your website, and make sure to include your telephone number, location and hours of operation. You may consider setting up an online ordering system where customers can plan their orders and walk in to pick up their bakery products with no waiting.
}You may consider setting up an online ordering system where customers can plan their orders and walk in to pick up their bakery products with no waiting.
4. ASK FOR REVIEWS
By now, you must know a lot of happy customers. Why not ask them to leave positive reviews in an area on your website or simply ask them to write testimonials? Don’t forget there are a number of events to plan for in the not too distant future, such as Easter and Mother’s Day, and you want to get these good reviews on your website right away.
5. REVIEW COMMUNICATIONS
2. NEW PRODUCTS OR SERVICES
Introducing and testing new products and services during your slowest season to attract new customers or appeal to a larger target group will certainly help you build momentum just in time for your peak season. It will allow your customers enough “trial” time to test and buy your new products and services, and
Review carefully each communication piece to see whether adding, deleting or expanding communication to new and old customers, vendors and suppliers and strategic partners could help increase sales during these slow months. Take a good look at your own flyers, email blasts and marketing, direct mail campaign, website, social media networks and paid advertising.
6. TAKE IT ON THE ROAD
This is the perfect time to think more creatively about your bakery. Customers may not be walking through your doors,
but maybe it’s the perfect time to look at your local events calendar to see what types of events your perfect customer would likely attend. Perhaps you can set up a table or booth at one of your community events, fairs or festivals. It is a very inexpensive way to not only connect with your existing customers, but to broaden your reach with new potential customers. Try to think of ways to bring new groups of people into your bakery. Talk to your customers and find out what their interests are and what they do for entertainment in the winter.
7. CHECK YOUR DATABASE
One of the best ways to stay in touch with your existing customers is to maintain an accurate database. If you are sending regular mail or emails, keeping track of birthdays and anniversaries, or keeping other information about your customers, an up-to-date database is a ticket to making more money.
8. THROW AN OPEN HOUSE
Another great way to bring customers back into your bakery and increase sales is to have an open house at your place of business. Invite your best customers to an open house where you can showcase your latest bakery and retail products. Set-up a small “sweet dessert” buffet and have each customer sample your latest products. Send them away with gift bags filled with a gift certificate, flyers and business cards
I hope these eight tips inspire you to make the most of your downtime. Before you know it, your bakery will be hopping again! / BJ
Diane Chiasson, FCSI, president of Chiasson Consultants Inc., has been helping foodservice, hospitality and retail operators increase sales for over 25 years. She is recognized as the industry leader in providing innovative and revenueincreasing foodservice and retail merchandising programs, interior design, branding, menu engineering, marketing and promotional campaigns, and much more. Contact her at 416-926-1338, toll-free at 1-888-926-6655 or chiasson@ chiassonconsultants.com, or visit www.chiassonconsultants.com.
Canada’s National Baking Industry Trade Show & Conference
• Join almost 5,000 baking & food industry professionals from retail, wholesale, commercial bakeries, grocery stores & foodservice outlets
• Visit the Trade Show with more than a 1000,000 sq. ft. of space showcasing ingredients, equipment, services, technology and baked goods (fresh, proof & bake, parbaked, freezer-to-oven, thaw & serve)
• Learn at the informative sessions during the Conference Program
• Located in the Toronto area, the facility is easily accessible by public transportation (Mississauga Transit & GO trains, major highways. It is only 5 minutes from the Toronto International Airport)
• Free parking
• Held every two years it is the only baking specific event produced in Canada
To keep your business successful, it’s important to stay on top of what is happening in the baking industry. Bakery Showcase 2016 provides a host of opportunities to source new suppliers, connect with current suppliers, as well as discover new trends and products.
THREE DAYS OF TRADE SHOW
12 noon – 5 pm daily
SCHEDULE OF ACTIVITIES
CONFERENCE PROGRAM
Conference Program Sponsor
Sunday May 1, 2016
9:45 am – 10:45 am
BAC Annual General Meeting
(Members and non-members invited to attend)
The annual meeting of members provides a review of the Association’s activities over the past year as well as direction for the future.
Please note: only BAC members are eligible to vote
11:00 am – 12:00 noon
The Road to Paris: Baking Team Canada’s Journey to the World Cup of Baking/Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie
Alan Dumonceaux, Baking Program at NAIT and Captain of Bake Team Canada, will share the story of Bake Team Canada from qualifying in the Louis Lesaffre Cup regional play downs to competing against representatives from 12 other countries in the Baking World Cup – Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, held every four years in France.
Presented by: Alan Dumonceaux, Team Captain
Sunday’s Conference Session is complimentary
Monday May 2, 2016
9:00 am – 10:30 am
Holey Donuts Batman!
Two Dozen Ways to Raise Your Bakery Sales Without Spending Too Much Dough
This is a fast-paced look at ways to build the average transaction size in your bakery. Harold Lloyd and his associates conducted an informal consumer study by shopping at five local bakeries. In 101 visits, the researchers found that most store employees barely acknowledged them and 10% actually ignored them completely. Lloyd included three generations of “research shoppers” and planned the visits at various times of the day. What they discovered was a serious lack of customer service. Employees seemed too busy to be interrupted. It would appear that bakery associates tend to be very production-oriented and don’t seem to be focused on selling the product at all. But who is to blame for this?
This session will highlight the five reasons why our employees don’t seem to care about the customer. Secondly, this session will point out 24 ways your employees can better engage the customer with the ultimate goal of building sales.
Presented
by Harold Lloyd
Where Are We and Where Are We Going: The Bakers Perspectives
How are bakers responding to today’s challenges and preparing for the future? Our Baker panel, representing companies large and small, will offer their views on where the industry is today and where it’s heading. This session will explore how bakeries are addressing changing consumer and business demands while exploring new market opportunities.
Panelists:
Danièle Bertrand, Partner & President – The Dufflet Group of Companies
Simon Blackwell, Owner – Blackbird Baking Co.
Gottfried Boehringer, President – The Stonemill Bakehouse Ltd.
Darryl Rowe, President – Weston Bakeries
Moderator: Harold Lloyd
Tuesday May 3, 2016
9:00 am – 10:00 am
Nutritional Advice – Is There A Solution To The Confusion?
Eating has become a confusing experience. Virtually every day brings news about some “miracle food” that we should be gulping down. It may be blueberries to prevent cancer, flaxseed against heart disease, soybeans for menopause or green coffee bean extract for weight loss. Then there are the worries: food additives, gluten, pesticide residues, GMOs, antibiotics, meat consumption. We need proper science to guide us through this nutritional maze. Dr. Joe Schwarcz is Director of McGill University’s “Office for Science and Society” which is dedicated to demystifying science and separating sense from nonsense. He is well known for his informative and entertaining public lectures on topics ranging from the chemistry of love to the science of aging. Presented by: Dr. Joe Schwarz
10:00 am – 10:45 am
Communicating A Science-Based Nutrition Message
In The Media: Overcoming The Many Challenges
Crafting complex nutrition messages – and getting them heard – can be challenging in today’s digital age amid a sea of contradicting study findings, controversial health stories, popular fad diets, outspoken celebrity doctors and other “experts”.
Registered Dietician, Globe and Mail columnist and best-selling author, Leslie Beck, will discuss the challenges – and strategies she uses – when communicating health messages in print, TV and digital media.
Presented by: Leslie Beck
Registration is required for Monday and Tuesday Conference Sessions
Tuesday May 3, 2016 (continued)
10:45 am – 12:00 noon
State Of The Industry: Responding To Consumers and Governments Regarding Today’s Food and Nutrition Challenges
Media, Health group and government have for years been offering bakers an ever changing array of advice and direction related to nutrition and ingredients. This special State of the Industry Panel will explore how the baking industry in both Canada and the United States have, and are responding to both consumers and governments regarding today’s food and nutrition challenges.
Panelists:
Christine Cochran, Executive Director – Grain Foods Foundation
Paul Hetherington, President and CEO – Baking Association of Canada
Christine Lowry, Executive Director – Healthy Grains Institute
Robb MacKie, President and CEO – American Bakers Association
Employees of exhibiting companies (booth personnel and general attendees) who qualify in the “Supplier” category are encouraged to be added to their company’s
• Solicitation by non-exhibitors is strictly prohibited and violators will be evicted. a D vance re GI strat I on en D s on apr I l 27. Registrations received after this date will not be processedregister on-site at the The International Centre, Hall 5, May 1-3. ons I te re GI strat I on for ba K er / reta I ler / foo D serv I ce : Applies to owners or employees of bakeries, retail grocers, food distributors, restaurants, hotels, foodservice operations, accredited schools and enrolled students. p roof of qualification is required for on-site registrations which may include: business card, business license, company web site, company invoice, payroll stub (white out $), student card. Qualification criteria may be extended to group registrations at BAC's discretion.
• Registrations will not be processed without full payment and will be confirmed via email.
• All badges will be held for pickup on-site.
• BAC reserves the right to refuse a registration request to anyone. BAC must verify your registration eligibility.
• Refund Policy: Written cancellation must be received no later than Thursday March 31. A $25 service fee will be applied. Refunds will occur after the event. Cancellations after March 31 are non refundable.
• Badges are required for admittance. Altering your badge in any way (including inserting a business card), misrepresenting information on the registration form, loaning or giving your badge to another person is strictly prohibited and will be cause for eviction.
b y submitting this form you acknowledge the following p rivacy p olicy: The Baking Association of Canada (BAC) is committed to safeguarding the personal information you provide to us. The information provided is held in confidence and will be used strictly in the communication of BAC events, programs and services. BAC does not sell, share or transfer your personal information to any third parties for reason(s) other than communication that is required by
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BAKING KNOWLEDGE CENTRE
For the latest in Bakery “Hot Topics and Trends” (Wholegrains, Clean Label, Sprouted Wheat and Grains, Organic, Gluten Free and Egg Prices), understanding how to incorporate more Wholegrain Flour and other Grains in your mainstream bakery formulas, or to receive an education on the different types of Wheat and Flour and their best-used-for baking applications, come to the Baking Knowledge Centre. Here the experts at Ardent Mills will be glad to answer your questions, plus see the live wheat milling demonstration that you don’t want to miss!
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(as of February 19, 2016)
ON THE PULSE
Did you know that you can whip the liquid in a can of chickpeas into a fluffy meringue? You can, and if you read on, you’ll learn the how-to of this tidbit. It’s just one of the many cool things happening in the world of pulses and baking. Since the United Nations deemed 2016 the International Year of Pulses, interest has most certainly sprouted.
WHAT ARE PULSES?
Pulse Canada defines pulses as “the edible seeds of plants in the legume family” on its website. The family of legumes describes plants that
put their fruit in a pod, like peas or peanuts. Pulses are in the family, but refer specifically to the dried seeds, such as lentils and chickpeas.
Pulses are elders among the world’s crops, having been cultivated for thousands of years.
HITTING ALL THE CONSUMER TRENDS
Pulses offer a great opportunity to hit on some key consumer trends, making 2016 a timely year to dedicate to their use.
The health factor: The pulse health bio reads like a who’s who of today’s nutrition trends. Protein packed? Tick. Fibre? Tick. Micronutrients? Tick, tick, tick.
For example, let’s look at how dry pea flour stacks up against all-purpose in an analysis done by the USA Dry Pea & Lentil Council.
Per 100 grams, dry pea flour has 24.6 g of protein, 25.5 g of fibre, 981 mg of potassium, 274 mcg of folate, and 4.4 mg of iron. Per 100 grams, all-purpose flour has 10.3 g of protein, 2.7 g of fibre, 107 mg of potassium, 26 mcg of folate, and 1.2 mg of iron.
If you look further at potassium, the USDA reports bananas have 358 mg per 100 grams, which makes pea flour a powerhouse with 981 mg. The further question left is how much of a baked good you would have to eat to ingest 100 grams of pea flour
as opposed to the obvious simplicity of eating a banana, and the answer to that would be very product specific. By weight alone, there is a clear case in point.
Heather Maskus, M.Sc., is the project manager for Pulse Flour Milling & Food Applications at the Canadian International Grains Institute (Cigi) in Winnipeg. Cigi is a non-profit technical and marketing operation with a focus on the quality of Canadian field crops. In the bakery sector, Maskus is seeing a lot of emphasis being placed on increasing protein, and broadening the healthy attributes of traditional baked goods through pulse incorporation.
The bread on the left was formulated with whole green lentil flour and whole wheat flour. The bread on the right is made with a whole pinto bean flour and whole wheat. Note the slight variance in loaf volume and texture produced by the different pulses. These breads were made at the Canadian International Grains Institute.
How to get started with pulses in your bakery | BY LAURA AIKEN
“There’s this consumer perspective of carbohydrates as being unhealthy and how we can build platforms to overcome this mentality. Pulses are one ingredient that can be used to compliment wheat in bread formulation and other baked goods.”
Margaret Hughes, vice-president of sales and marketing for Best Cooking Pulses, has been an active industry ambassador with plenty of expertise. Best Cooking Pulses is a Canadian company with roots dating back to the 1930s, and has a portfolio that includes a variety of non-GMO pulse flours and pea fibre.
Hughes says if she were a baker, she would tap into the trend of consumers looking for more nutritious bread that offers more variety in what kind of foods they include. Incorporating pulse flours can increase the protein, fibre and micronutrient content of the bread naturally, which fares well for the clean label focus.
Protein has been on the consumer mind for some time now, and pulses serve a special role in improving the quality of this nutrient, which is just as key as quantity.
“In the U.S. and Canada,” Hughes says, “because protein is based on maximizing quality protein, when you combine pulses and grains you improve the protein quality.”
The protein in pulses is higher in lysine and lower in sulphur amino acids, where grains such as wheat or rice have the opposite ratios. The amino acid structure is improved when the two are blended, since they compliment each other by making up for what the other one is lower in. This results in a higher quality protein score.
Bakeries can combine different flours to achieve a protein claim on their product, Hughes says, and can have blends custom-designed to assist in achieving their end product goal.
It’s local: “We grow more lentils and peas than anywhere else in the world,” Hughes shares. “We’re talking about a local product.”
When it was the UN designated International Year of Quinoa in 2013, no one even knew how to spell it and a lot of the raw materials were bought offshore, she says. She finds it especially exciting that the year of pulses highlights a local product for Canadians.
Pulse Canada statistics indicate that as of 2010, Canada produced 32 per
cent of the world’s peas and 38.5 per cent of the world’s lentils. In the global trade of peas and lentils, Pulse Canada reports online that “Canada accounted for 55 per cent and 50 per cent, respectively, in 2008 (the most recent year of complete FAO statistics) and [is] a top five exporter of both dry beans and chickpeas. In 2010, Canada exported a record 4.3 million tonnes of pulses worth more than $2.1 billion.”
With the spotlight on pulses, there is a co-ordinated effort to understand and communicate the benefits of the crops. Although Canada is a significant producer, Maskus has seen a previous lack of awareness.
“A lot of Canadians I talk to, they don’t really understand or really know that something so seemingly exotic as a chickpea can be grown here on the Canadian Prairies, so that’s really interesting for us.”
It creates the opportunity for novelty: In Hughes’ travels through the culinary world of pulses, she’s seen some exciting things of note. She described a perogie developed by Red River College where part of the wheat flour was replaced with a black bean flour, and this resulted in excellent flavour and a purple-ish colour with flecks that was very “neat looking.”
Pulses afford a great opportunity for bakeries that want to differentiate themselves, she says.
“Bakery has been one of the sectors that have been slow to come to integrating pulses, but it’s definitely on the upswing.”
THE MAKING OF A VEGAN, NUT-FREE MACARON
Pastry chef Geoffroy Dextraze of Winnipeg’s Prairie Ink Restaurant and Bakery created a vegan, nut-free macaron for the provincial launch of the International Year of Pulses, which was a luncheon hosted by the Manitoba Pulse and Soybean Growers. That little cookie has really blown some doors open for Dextraze.
“Since Margaret Hughes [of Best Cooking Pulses] asked us to do some cooking for the luncheon a couple weeks ago [Jan. 6], the publicity has been crazy,” he says. His cookie feat and its positive reception has led to him being asked to join a team of collaborators in Denver who will be taking a special look at innovations with pulses.
Prior to the luncheon, Dextraze says
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he had been meaning to experiment with pulses more in his baking, but hadn’t done much up to that point. About 40 per cent of the baking at Prairie Ink is flourless. He hadn’t really been using pulses for that yet, but saw the potential.
He says that Hughes let him know she heard you could make a meringue with chickpea water. He looked into it online and found some success stories on making a meringue without eggs dating back to last spring. It appears the technique is pretty new, he says, perhaps not even a year old.
He gets requests for nut-free macarons, so he had already been dabbling with success at using seeds to make these.
So he decided to go all in and do a nut-free, vegan macaron. He elected to do a “confederate coffee” flavour, whereby he used ground dried roasted pea pulse that was toasted and added some ground coffee. He infused this concoction into the ganache and shells. Confederate coffee is a term dating back to wartimes and refers to the use of other foods, such as acorns, to make a coffee substitute.
“It was a very cool flavour. There were no nuts in there, but it tasted very nutty.” And for Dextraze, taste and texture needs to trump all else.
“I want to fool myself before I serve it to a customer.”
Step 1: Nut-free: Dextraze used a roasted pea flour put through a commercial coffee grinder to achieve a matching
coarseness to almond meal. After that, it was a straight swap and he followed his usual macaron recipe. His improvements now centre on using pea flour that is a bit less roasted, which, as he understands, is not a problem to acquire.
Step 2: Egg-free: Dextraze began with an equal parts replacement of chickpea water for the egg whites to make the meringue.
He recommends reducing the chickpea water until you get the same consistency of egg whites. Once this has been achieved, bring it down to room temperature. When ready, add a little cream of tartar and start whipping. It will take longer than eggs do to reach the desired fluffiness, but once achieved, fold in the icing sugar and make sure it is sufficiently dried out.
“The overall texture, even baking the meringue, it’s just like eggs,” Dextraze says.
The kitchen has been producing egg-free meringue for sale in the restaurant, with pink rosewater being the first flavour offered. He says there’s been positive feedback.
“In some way, shape or form, you don’t get that strong taste of the chickpea brine. At some point in baking it just disappears.” Since the luncheon where he first introduced the cookie, he has learned that he needs to lower the baking temperature to get consistent results. The brine doesn’t react well to high temperatures, he says, and it really needs to be kept dry. He is currently looking around for a natural
additive to stabilize the foam.
He points to the fluctuating cost of eggs and the avian flu scare as some of the reasons chickpea brine is an exciting opportunity for bakers. It’s nice to have an ingredient on hand that can help save money, he says, and keep up with the demand for egg whites needed for macarons, which can be a challenge at Prairie Ink. It also offers more choices for the bakery’s clients.
“For us small bakeries, we need to be more resourceful. It’s crazy – we’ve been dumping gold [the brine] down the sink…I had no intentions of making a vegan macaron. I had no intentions of making a vegan, nut-free macaron. I didn’t bend the rules, I broke the rules with these cookies, and now anyone can enjoy it.”
BAKING OUTSIDE THE BOX
A vegan, nut-free macaron is just one of countless avenues bakers and pastry chefs can take in experimenting with pulses and product development.
Yulia Borsuk is a technical specialist with Cigi. Borsuk has gained valuable experience when it comes to baking with pulse flours, an area that she agrees is still new in our understanding of how the various crops perform in different baked goods.
The key thing to remember, she says, is that pulse flours don’t contain gluten and this changes everything in your high volume bread making. When you include
These pitas were produced at the Canadian International Grains Institute under a project called Pulse Flour Processing and Utilization. The pitas were made with 30 per cent pea flour and 70 per cent wheat flour.
KEY PULSE POINTS
• Pulses are naturally gluten-free and can enhance the nutritional profile of gluten-free baked goods.
• Chickpea brine can be used as a replacement for egg whites.
• Roasted pea flour can replace almond meal for nut-free applications.
• Pulse flours help bakeries create something unique for their customers, as its application possibilities
pulse flours (at which percentage is totally product dependent and could range from five per cent to 30 or more), the dough characteristics change because of the reduction in gluten. For bread baked in a deck oven, she generally works with inclusions of 10 to 15 per cent. Go higher than this and you will likely have to explain the unusual nature of your loaf to your customers.
Maskus recommends that if you really want to see a significant shift in protein, but want to work with a low inclusion level closer to five per cent so the bread sees very little change in characteristics, you probably want to move into a pea protein concentrate or an isolate that’s commercially available.
If you take typical white dough and add some pulse flour, the dough will become sticky. You need to add less water, Borsuk says, as absorption needs to be reduced to compensate. Hydration is key and mixing processes need to change. Mix on slow for longer to get a good hydration, and then increase the speed to develop the gluten. The dough will be mixed for less time at a high speed than your standard white dough.
If you look at characteristics such as strength, extensibility, and resistance, she says the dough will be more extensible and less resistant. Proofing time will be slightly less, but she says by how much is very product dependent. Baking time will also be reduced. Pulses are high in protein, and this means the browning effect happens quicker. In a high volume bread, she says your end product, without any optimization, will have a lower volume, the crumb will be more dense and compact, it will be less soft and you will have a different flavour and aroma, depending on which crop you use.
are vast: chocolate, bread, desserts, muffins, cookies, etc.
• Incorporating pulses will change many things about the baking process. You will need to adjust the liquids added, mixing process and baking time and temperature.
• Pulses are rich in fibre, protein and micronutrients.
• Pulse flours can help bakeries achieve protein claims.
There are a number of ways you can optimize the dough for better results. Adding gluten is one way, she says, but at what percentage is really product dependent and requires trial and error. Molasses or honey instead of sugar are helpful sweeteners for flavour improvement. Using stronger dough conditioners will also help, as will emulsifiers to help maintain the crumb structure and softness. Pulse flours are also to be blended in initially, not treated as a
separate ingredient.
“It’s really interesting and exciting for the baker because there are so many pulse crops and each crop is unique – it has different colour, different flavour, so the baker can develop very interesting products out of those ingredients.”
Borsuk says she likes working with navy bean, fava bean and chickpea flours best because they are fairly neutral in colour when compared to a green lentil or yellow pea flour.
She has been part of some interesting work with cookies made using a wire-cut method in the style of chocolate chunk, (rotary will not work as the dough will stick, she advises). Chickpea flour worked very well for this at 20 to 25 per cent incorporation.
“Fava bean works very well in cupcakes,” she adds. “Gives excellent volume and is neutral in flavour. It’s very, very nice.”
But they are still in the understanding phase because each pulse flour behaves uniquely in different products.
“We tried them all [the flours] in cookies, liked chickpeas, but with cupcakes it didn’t
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work out in terms of flavour with chickpea. You have to make a product that tastes great. It doesn’t matter how healthy or what kind of claim it has, if it’s not good, no one will buy it.”
Maskus points to pulses in an application like tortillas, where there is already a lot of Latin American influence in the product.
“Beans are not a far cry in terms of traditional use with those, so you are complimenting the cuisine on its own with the inclusion of pulse ingredients in those kind of products. It’s so interesting to see how they have historically been used in many cuisines around the world, such as Mexican and Indian, and there is this sort of a resurgence in the interest in these exotic cuisines in North America.”
Black bean flour is on the heavier side of the pulse flavour spectrum and will have more flavour impact. Hughes says you can smell and taste pulses in the raw batter, but it can dissipate once cooked.
“If I bake chocolate brownies with a pinto bean flour for 20 minutes, I’ll still be able to taste the pinto, but if I cook it for another five, that flavour goes away, so there are certain volatiles that get cooked off,” she says.
A MATTER OF MILLING
Milling affects how the pulse flour behaves, which makes particle size very important in terms of understanding how the crop will act in a given formulation, Hughes says.
Wheat flour milling has a long history and well institutionalized standards in place with regards to what the particle size should be, what its gluten and protein content is, and how it
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will perform. With pulse milling, that information is still being gathered and standardized, Maskus says.
“Pulse flours are relatively new so my advice for anyone that would be interested in working with pulse flours is to work with a supplier who is very flexible and interested in working together on creating the best quality of flour possible for a very particular application,” she says.
On the technical side, product development has drawn some conclusions thus far.
“In my experience, more coarse – not coarse like semolina –but coarser is better for processing,” Borsuk says. “It gives it more similar characteristics to regular white dough.”
Dextraze found that a superfine grind can make a great roux for soups, but agrees that coarser flour bearing more resemblance to wheat is better for general baking.
“Typically a lot of pea flours are very fine like cornstarch and it’s very absorbent the more fine that you go.”
GLUTEN-FREE BAKING
Pulses are naturally gluten-free and can make gluten-free baked goods healthier, offering more nutritional benefits than the starches typically used. Hughes and Maskus have both noticed pulses getting more play in the realm of gluten-free baking.
Dextraze discovered a “fantastic substitution” for the graham wafer crust on a cheesecake or key lime pie by replacing sorghum or rice flour with lentil, pea or chickpea flour.
Navy bean is very mild in taste, he says, and he finds that it loses itself with all the other ingredients. Xantham gum can help keep products like gluten-free crackers bound together.
The USA Dry Pea & Lentil Council recommends using a 1:1 ratio blend of white rice flour/tapioca starch, and chickpea, lentil or yellow pea flour.
PULSES AND YOUR BOTTOM LINE
Pulses are a commodity with fluctuating prices. What you will pay will depend on a multitude of factors.
Maskus has discovered through her work with Cigi that it takes a bit more energy to mill pulses, but less milling passes are required so the energy requirements and processing costs appear similar, although she notes more work needs to be done in this area. Most of the price differences will come from the cost of the raw materials, she says.
“Right now pulse prices are a little bit on the high side related to production levels in India being somewhat low because of droughts.”
Typically, she says, peas are the lowest priced pulse. If you compared pulses in general to wheat, pulses will be a bit higher but not drastically so. They fall within a similar range where the most noticeable cost differences will be seen when buying large-scale amounts.
READY, SET, BAKE!
Feeling ready to plunge into pulses? Remember, Cigi is there for advice. The pulse department is built around understanding the initial technical questions food producers have when wanting to use a specific ingredient in a product.
You can also learn more about pulses simply by turning to our back page. Health expert Jane Dummer, RD and resident Final Proof columnist at Bakers Journal, has written on pulses in her article on page 30. / BJ
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BY JANE DUMMER, RD
THE PULSE ON PULSES
It’s the International Year of Pulses. Now is the time to learn how to bake with this nutritious group of foods.
In my Final Proof column from May 2011, I introduced pulses for baking. Fast-forward five years later and 2016 is now the International Year of Pulses. As part of a worldwide marketing campaign, consumers are being urged to eat more beans, lentils, chickpeas and peas. What a perfect occasion for the baking industry to add more pulses to its line up! Let’s explore the health benefits of pulses, and then dive into the baking applications and opportunities for the industry.
Last November, I attended Little Beans, Big Opportunities: Realizing the Potential of Pulses to Meet Today’s Global Health Challenges at The New York Academy of Sciences. Dr John Sievenpiper, staff physician at St. Michael’s Hospital and associate professor in the department of nutritional sciences at the University of Toronto, was the best speaker at the event and described many health benefits of pulses in his presentation.
}director of nutrition, scientific and regulatory affairs for Pulse Canada shares: “With the development of pulse flours, and other pulse-derived ingredients, there are innovative opportunities for increasing the use of pulses to boost the nutritional profile of baked goods.”
In the past five years, there has been a great deal of learning how to use pulses in baking, batters and breadings. These ingredients are helping to meet consumer demand for gluten-free, dairy-free, nut-free and egg-free products. In a joint presentation with Pulse Canada, Margaret Hughes, vice-president of sales and marketing for Best Cooking Pulses, will discuss eggreplacer applications at the Research Chef Association Annual Conference in Denver this March.
Hughes explains: “Pulses are a good option for egg-replacers as they are high in protein, low in fat, with the benefit of fibre, compared to other available options. A
With the increasing trend of plant-based dietary patterns in Canada and the U.S., there is more awareness of how to cook and bake with pulses.
“Consuming 130 grams of pulses daily can have a beneficial effect on blood lipids, blood pressure and blood sugar, which promotes heart health,” Sievenpiper explained. However, he cautioned that the majority of Canadians are not consuming pulses on a daily basis and welcomed culinary ideas to encourage consumption.
“In addition to the benefit of cardiovascular health and diabetes, there is new research [to be published later this year] regarding another positive effect of daily pulse consumption. Eating pulses promotes satiety which can assist in maintaining a healthy body weight.”
We know pulses have been part of the human diet globally for thousands of years. With the increasing trend of plant-based dietary patterns in Canada and the U.S., there is more awareness of how to cook and bake with pulses.
Christopher Marinangeli, PhD, RD, and
recent innovative discovery, ‘aquafaba,’ refers to the liquid in a can of chickpeas. This liquid can be beat into a meringue, creating a vegan egg replacer. We are working with local chefs in Manitoba to explore other functions of this ingredient.”
With more traditional breads, muffins, crackers and breading applications, Best Cooking Pulses, a Canadian, family owned and operated company, offers locally grown pulses to customize flour blends using their proprietary milling method. The method allows for different granulations, specific particle size and particle size distribution.
“We work with our clients based on their needs, then we provide solutions to achieve delicious, healthy end products for them,” Hughes says. “We have discovered different taste profiles based on the granulation and pulse type, plus how to provide consistent, repeatable blends. Recently, Safeway in California successfully launched quinoa bread with our chickpea, lentil and yellow split pea flour blend.”
The combination of pulses and grains provides numerous ways to increase the nutrition profile of bread and baked goods.
Pulses are great sources of nutrients including protein, fibre, iron, folate, potassium and magnesium.
Marinangeli from Pulse Canada agrees.
“A pragmatic approach to incorporating pulses into baked goods is looking at how pulses can enhance the overall nutritional profile of baked goods. Pulses contain significant levels of nutrients, including, protein, fibre, iron, folate, potassium and magnesium. Therefore, the addition of pulses and pulse flours are a great way to increase the nutrient density of baked foods.” Marinangeli is thrilled to share emerging research on the influence of pulses and gastrointestinal health. And as we all know, there is a heightened consumer interest in digestive health.
“In fact, recent studies suggest that pulses may help with inflammatory responses associated with colitis*,” he says. “Although human data are needed to corroborate these preliminary findings, this is an exciting area of research.”
While research continues to pursue the effects of pulses on health, the time is now for bakers, ingredient companies, retailers and restaurants to explore the various pulse possibilities!
*Monk et al. White and dark kidney beans reduce colonic mucosal damage and inflammation in response to dextran sodium sulfate. J Nutr Biochem. 2015 Jul;26(7):752-60.
*Cooked navy and black bean diets improve biomarkers of colon health and reduce inflammation during colitis. Br J Nutr. 2014 May;111(9):1549-63.
Jane Dummer, RD (www.janedummer. com), known as the Pod to Plate Food Consultant, collaborates and partners with the food and nutrition industry across North America.
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