Amsterdam Magazine no 8 - April 2011

Page 1

€4.95

Yes, I’m free!

beyond windmills, wooden shoes and weed

m a g a z i n e

10 Expo l abstraction of destruction l

Sex on Film

‘I couldn’t stop laughing’

Long live the Queen! Let’s go beyond Queen’s Day

There’s life after Hollywood

Carice van Houten:

‘Yes, I write’

+Get Social & Win free tickets!

And: Pimp my Bike - Amsterdam Eats - Museum Check - Café Finch - Sex and de Stad - Bloemendaal Beach - Framed - and much more!






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featured Long live the Queen! interview

38

15 18 25 59

Unlock the city: Student style! Meet the Dutch: Actress Carice van Houten Word on the street: Your opinion on the monarchy Foreign exchange: Feminist pornographer meets Dutch filmmaker

reportage 34 48 52

getting around: Bloemendaal Beach Knock Knock: This is how an “ex-porn star” lives pimp my bike: And then the chain guard broke...

reviewed 21 23 64 66 73

Magnified: Buttons, buttons and buttons amsterdam eats: A cheap Tex-Mex eatery wet your whistle: Do as the locals do at Finch Amsterdam Sleeps: The Toren museum check: Enter the tropics!

Column 75 82

48

Sex and de Stad: Confessions of a prostitute Framed: by Thomas Schlijper

Fashion 38

The Shoot-up

ART & Design 56 72

Expo: Abstraction of Destruction Made in holland: 3dwn1up

the guide 68

Dutch A-Z

the regular 7 8 10

letter from the editor spamsterdam heads-up: News from the city

more... 17 62 76 78

25 6

Amsterdam

magazine

dutch treat: Jenever (juh-nay-ver) The Ten: Queen’s Day tips captured: What you missed last month upcoming: Events that mustn’t be missed

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Letter from the Editor With 50,000 copies distributed each month, Amsterdam Magazine is the largest free English-language magazine in the Netherlands. Amsterdam Magazine is distributed at hundreds of locations in Amsterdam including many hotels, popular tourist attractions, restaurants, bars and shops. For those on their way home or just passing through Amsterdam with a connecting flight, we are freely available at all four Schiphol airport lounges. Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly by: Amsterdam Magazine BV Herengracht 423 - sous 1017 BR Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 (0)20 8461690 info@amsterdam-magazine.com www.amsterdam-magazine.com twitter: amsterdammag facebook: amsterdammagazine Founding Publishers: Linda Korver Wouter Wijtenburg Editor in Chief: Mathilde Hoekstra editor@amsterdam-magazine.com

Strawberry Blonde In our February issue I promised the readers of Amsterdam

Magazine that I would dye my hair blonde. Since promises must be kept, and I hate going to the hairdressers, I bought myself a nice little DIY kit.

Art Director: Linda Korver creative@amsterdam-magazine.com Sub-Editor: Karen Loughrey proof@amsterdam-magazine.com Sales Director: Wouter Wijtenburg sales@amsterdam-magazine.com

My boyfriend freaked out: ‘These things never work!’ But, after realising that there was no way back, he ended up sitting in front of the telly wearing a pair of plastic gloves and holding a brush, ready to get

Creative Assistant: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com

creative on my hair. After half an hour I found myself in the bathroom

Social Media: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com

where some strawberry blonde woman was staring back at me from the

Fashion Director: Tommy Hagen fashion@amsterdam-magazine.com Open Positions: Deputy Art Director Email your portfolio to linda@amsterdam-magazine.com We’re open to any kind of internships! Email your request to linda@amsterdam-magazine.com

mirror. ‘Shit,’ she mumbled. ‘That’s not blonde, is it?’ The next day I went back to the shop, wearing a big hood in order to avoid receiving any critical winks and bursting into tears immediately.

Frontcover: Andy Warhol - Reigning Queens: Queen Beatrix Of The Netherlands. See it for yourself at the Rijksmuseum!

With a better (more expensive) DIY kit in my hands I rushed back home.

Contributors Morgan Currie, Jan Bart Dieperink, Vincent van Dijk, Michiel Döbelman, Allison Guy, Tommy Hagen, Brandon Hartley, April Jumelet, Blair Larkin, Evert-Jan Pol, Hermanna Prinsen, Mike Peek, Thomas Schlijper, Arun Sood, Marieke Verhoeven, Lauren Wissot

Think Cate Blanchett in Bandits and add some white patches on her

Special thanks to A-film, Thea de Boer, J Henry Fair, Café Finch, Frans Franciscus, Carice van Houten, Herve Seeuws, Rijksmuseum, The Toren, Michael Krimgen, Manon de Weerd, Kathryn Sedman Advertise with us! To find out on how you can get your message across to 100,000 international tourists each month, reach us by email at: sales@amsterdam-magazine.com or call our office on: +31 (0)20 8461690. Want to become a distributor? Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly (50,000 free copies). To discuss becoming one of our exclusive distribution locations, please contact us at info@ amsterdam-magazine.com. Printed at Senefelder Misset BV

This time I decided to slap it on myself. No time to waste. The result? scalp. Now let me make you a new promise: next month I’ll visit a professional hairdresser to get it fixed. Until then I challenge you: dye your hair as orange as mine - the Queen will love you for it. And so will I. Happy Queen’s Day!

Mathilde Hoekstra, Editor in Chief

Distributed for free in the Netherlands Recycle this magazine by passing it on! --------------------------------------------------------© Amsterdam Magazine B.V. 2010. Amsterdam Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Amsterdam Magazine or its publishers. Amsterdam Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content. ---------------------------------------------------------

7


get social!

& win!

When we’re not busy making funky fresh magazines, we like to get social with our readers online. Besides chatting, gossiping, debating and flirting, we also like to give away prizes. Join our Facebook or Twitter page to get hold of any of our great giveaways!

twitter.com

/amsterdammag facebook.com

/amsterdam-magazine And now also on:

foursquare.com

/amsterdammag Isabelleokane: Discovered your magazine yesterday - love it - great for us expats looking for new Amsterdam tips :) Thistleth: @amsterdammag Yay, I won tix! But wait... to get them I would have to divulge my secret Spidey-identity! What a dilemma! Oh WHAT 2 do! frankbellmusic: In @amsterdammag w/ @valeriusonline 4 the Hendrikus party last month... Good times! Love to my Dutch family! http://twitpic.com/4a30s2 Anita Kalmane: Got it, read it, will continue reading it! Thanks from the ‘global citizen’! :) Joyce De Lange-den Boer: Your beautiful mag is not very well represented around the Leidseplein. We’ve been searching for it in several hotels, cinemas and venues, but still no copy... Amsterdam Magazine: Hi Joyce, As we have heard, people are even taking our magazine to the toilet. And God knows how long they’ll stay there, reading page after page...Next time try visiting us directly at Herengracht 432 in order to get your free copy!

Billy Thai> Great tofu pad thai! The sauce is made perfectly. Also try the Billy sampler. 1√ David Lloyd Sports & Health Club > I Indoor swimming pool, a jaccuzzi, a sauna, a steam room. The list goes on! What more can you ask for? 4√ Westerpark > Picnics, bars, clubs, cinema, galleries, this park has it all! Try biking farther west of westergasfabriek for serene nature including tons of hopping bunnies. 4√

Next month we’ll read through all the spam and select one Email of the month. so get creative with your words, maybe even attach a picture of your stay in amsterdam, or bribe us with jenever... Email us at inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com for the chance to win great prizes!


spamsterdam

Sp@msterdam

What do you think of Amsterdam Magazine or Amsterdam in general? Do you love it? Loathe it? Admire it? Don’t bottle it up; share your feelings with us (and the rest of the world). Your fearless attitude might be rewarded...

What you shared with us...

From: Mantas Čižas Date: Tue, Mar 1, 2011 at 9:30 PM Subject: march number To: info@amsterdam-magazine.com

From: Milagros Simarro Date: Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 3:57 PM Subject: Pimp my Marjory! To: inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com

I am writing because I saw my name and surname

Hello! My name is Milagros Simarro. I’m

and an interview that I gave in Amsterdam last month in your March issue. The problem is that it’s not me in the picture. I think that you should fix it quick, because I agreed to help your magazine when your reporters asked and now it’s not fair. I will not leave it like this, so I hope you will find the solution. Waiting for your answer and your next steps in this situation.

from Argentina and I’ve been living in Amsterdam since October 2010 with my boyfriend/husband. We are really happy here, and – I’m not saying this just because I want to pimp my ride –

we

wait every month for the new edition of the magazine. It is great! We always have a copy of it... well, in the bathroom (sorry!). But back to business: I want my bike to be pimped, and here is what’s special about my situation.

Mantas Čižas

My boyfriend bought this lovely bike yesterday and it was not only the first time I rode it, but the first time I have ever ridden a bike! I have never in my 26 years ridden a bike before yesterday, but after an hour of trying with

From: info@amsterdam-magazine.com Date: Date Wed, Mar 2, 2011 at 9:15 AM Subject: Re: march number To: Mantas Čižas

all my efforts not to fall, I finally did it!!!! And then, there I was, all proud of myself and Marjory Stewart-Baxter (that´s HER name), riding through the Vondelpark, happy and smiling like an idiot. As I told you, my bike’s name is

Hi Mantas,

Marjory Stewart-Baxter (you have to pronounce it with a British accent, it is imperative)

Oops, we’re sorry to hear that! The magazine already went to press so we won’t be able to change that but we’ll mention it in the next issue. Sorry again and thanks for letting us know!

because of this www.fat-pie.com/salad2.htm. And I believe my bike has to be a tribute to this animated bizarre thing. I hope you can help me with this, my first and lovely bike: my Marjory! Thank you, Mili

We have a winner! Dear Mili, For becoming such a good Dutch citizen we’ll reward you with an impressive book by photographer J Henry Fair. His environmental work has received press coverage in Harper’s Magazine, National Geographic, The New York Times, Smithsonian and TIME Magazine, as well on CNN and NBC’s Today Show. Although The Day After Tomorrow shows images of our earth in crisis, we’re positive that Marjory will help you make it a better place. And who knows, maybe we’ll find her in our next Pimp too.

Not a winner?

Then get your own copy at the Eduard Planting Gallery. There’s a sneak preview of his exhibition on page 56.

9


Heads-up news from the city

By Evert-Jan Pol

Fietsforce to the rescue

When you experience car trouble on the Dutch roads you can call the Wegenwacht (Road Patrol). But who do you call when your bicycle breaks down while you’re riding it? In Amsterdam the right answer will shortly be the Fietsforce (Bikeforce). After receiving a call, a Fietsforce repairman will stop by on scooter or bike and try to fix the problem. If necessary, the broken bike will be taken to the repair shop. Students from the University of Amsterdam came up with the idea, which serves two purposes. The first is obvious, and the second is to offer young – often homeless – people a job. The Fietsforce service should be operational by May. So, is your bicycle broken? Call 0800-FIETSPECH (0800-343877324). Source: Parool Photo: Fietsforce

Amsterdam increases public transport fares Tram, bus and metro fares in Amsterdam will probably rise steeply this year. The higher prices are necessary to offset the proposed cuts to the public transport budget. Amsterdam alderman Eric Wiebes previously warned that a number of bus and tram lines will disappear if those plans are carried out. By raising the public transport fares this measure could be avoided. Ticket prices could rise by as much as 14 per cent. Source: Volkskrant


heads-up

Art on fences

For some time now the construction fences at Centraal Station have been decorated with artwork. Every few months Amsterdam museums ask artists to produce work inspired by those museums, and the winning pieces are then chosen by a jury. Designer Lars Wannop created one of the pieces that will decorate the fences in the coming weeks. He was inspired by photography museum FOAM to create – very appropriately – a surveillance camera. The art project Edits is an initiative of the city of Amsterdam to give the fences a friendlier appearance. The city also wants to give visitors an impression of what Amsterdam has to offer culturally. The exhibition will be on display until at least August. Source: n8.nl Photo: Edits

Safety Spot Not everyone feels safe while withdrawing money from a cash machine. Banks in De Pijp, in the Zuid district, together with the police and the local authorities have found a solution to the problem: the Safety Spot. It’s a yellow half circle painted on the pavement in front of the cash machine. The spot functions as a border between the bank client and others. The bright yellow colour attracts the attention of passersby and therefore increases social control. A survey showed that customers who used cash machines with the Safety Spot actually feel safer. The cooperating parties are therefore looking into the possibility of using the spots at more cash machines. Source: Parool

Where are the flowers at?

New building contractor Stedelijk Museum The construction of the Stedelijk Museum may be completed within a year. Work was suspended after main contractor Midreth filed for bankruptcy. Now building company VolkerWessels has offered to step in and finish the project. But it comes at a price – the project will take an extra €5 million to complete. VolkerWessels has promised to finish the new museum building within ten months. If it delivers on its promise, the contractor could receive a bonus of €250,000. If not, it will incur a fine. Source: AT5 Image: Benthem Crouwel Architekten

Did you know that the Rijksmuseum has an extension of their museum at Schiphol Airport? From 6 April till 5 September their expo is all about flowers. In the 17th century, flowers were quite a luxury, affordable only to the rich and famous. The trade in bulbs (especially tulips) was a lucrative business. However, ordinary citizens had to satisfy their needs with a floral still life instead. Such paintings were less expensive than a real bouquet - and longer lasting. They can be found at the Holland Boulevard, between the terminals E and F. Open daily from 7am to 8pm. Photo: Rijksmuseum

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Heads-up news from the city

By Evert-Jan Pol

Bonds for music

Splendor, a foundation of 50 musicians, is urgently looking for bondholders. The foundation wants to use the old bathhouse on the Niewe Uilenburgerstraat as a classical concert venue. But in order to do that it needs money – €100,000 to be precise. Splendor therefore issues bonds. Bondholders would usually receive interest, but in this case that interest is music. One bond is worth one musician who will play at the bondholder’s house. If he wants a bigger orchestra, he needs to buy more bonds. The bathhouse is scheduled to open as a concert hall next year. Source: Parool/Loes de Fauwe Photo: Tasos Antoniou

Amsterdam popular destination for cruise ships A record number of 1195 cruise ships visited the port of Amsterdam last year. That’s almost 20 per cent more than in 2009. That record is expected to be broken again this year; the harbour has already received 1250 bookings. Amsterdam is becoming an increasingly popular destination for holiday ships. The boats are often quite long. Nearly a quarter of them are longer than 110 metres. The port has therefore had to extend one of its piers, and plans to build more. Source: ANP Photo: Haven Amsterdam


heads-up

New bicycle tunnel underneath Centraal Station

Every day many cyclists and pedestrians cross the IJ river by ferry. From central Amsterdam this boat can only be reached via the (often crowded) Centraal Station. But if all goes to plan this will change by the end of 2012 with the opening of a new bicycle and pedestrian tunnel underneath Centraal Station. The tunnel will start right next to the station and end at the riverbank. The city expects around 15,000 travellers to use it on a daily basis. Construction, which began recently, will only take place at weekends because some train tracks will have to be disabled during the works. However, this will not affect the train schedules. Source: ANP Image: Benthem Crouwel Architekten

Religious human chain

M.A.S.H. in Amsterdam

Members of different religious communities can often get along just fine. This was proved again recently when around 200 Muslims, Christians, Jews and humanists formed a human chain together in De Pijp. The chain linked a mosque, a synagogue and a church. The pastor, imam and rabbi were offered the holy books of each other’s religions. ‘It’s great that we can share these books, which so often speak about compassion,’ said Julia van Rijn, pastor of the Protestant church in Amsterdam. The participants in the chain wanted to protest against the growing intolerance of certain religions. Source: AT5

Last month, the Amsterdam Centraal Station area was one of the best places to become ill, because a temporary military hospital was installed at the station. The field hospital was part of the military medical training exercise Capital Care, performed by the largest medical unit within the Royal Army. The ‘hospital’ consisted of an emergency room, several wards, operating rooms, a radiology room, a laboratory, an intensive care unit and a polyclinic. Inside, military medical personnel treated the many ‘wounded’. Source: AT5 Cartoon: Crazie Dutch Men

13



unlocking the city

Studen

t Style!

unlocking the city Allow our clued-up ’dam dwellers to help you unlock this city! In this issue, university student Linde Mollers gives us the inside scoop on how to have fun on a student budget. BY: SARAH MOORE

Linde Mollers [22] Studies Medicine at the University of Amsterdam

How can you go on a night out without burning holes in your pockets? Studio K on the east side is a really nice cinema and club. It’s run by students and caters to students. De Nieuwe Anita in the west is also a really cosy party venue at the weekends. The entrance fee is usually only €3, and it has a 1950s retro atmosphere. Pacific Parc in Westerpark turns their restaurant into an oldies soul and funk club on the weekends and it’s free! Where can we dine like kings without spending our entire paycheck? Café Skek is another student-run pub on the Zeedijk. It offers really great cheap food all day long. Try their hamburger or chocolate tart – if you’re a student you get 30% off of their already reasonably priced meals. If you’re in the centre and want cheap food you can go to Rimini by Leidsplein and get whole pizzas for around €5. If you like spicy Surinamese food check out Roopram or Mi Gudu on the east side. They serve super tasty Rotis! Where is your favourite spot to study, relax and enjoy a cup of coffee? I love the CREA Café. It’s conveniently located in the city centre and has a really relaxed vibe. Many people are studying but others are in groups eating and drinking beers. I also like Café Fonteyn at Nieuwmarkt, it’s a cosy little bruin café with a nice big terrace where you can study in the sun.

with friends. Also in the summertime there’s an amazing free movie screening series called ‘Pluck De Nacht’ where you can see films for free. I also love the OBA, our public library; you can listen to music, get on the computers and surf the Internet for free. You can also take your bike and take the free ferry to the north of Amsterdam and cycle through another area of the city. Many bars and venues offer free music like the Badcuyp, Café Alto and Het Muziektheater.

Any thrifty shops besides H&M? I love going to the Noordermarkt in the Jordaan on Mondays. Get there early and be prepared to dig through piles of clothes. You’ll be sure to find gems if you’re patient. Also, Zipper is a really cool vintage shop that’s not too expensive. There’s one right by Waterlooplein and one in the De Negen Straatjes. If you need a formal dress and you don’t have a lot to spend, check out Laura Dols also located in De Negen Straatjes.

Can you suggest some ways to enjoy the city for free? When it’s nice outside I like to hang out in Oosterpark and have a picnic

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dutch treat

Jenever cocktails:

Dutch Treat

Jenever

Martinez According to one theory, the martini’s ancestor is the Martinez, first served in San Francisco’s Occidental Hotel in 1862. Since London Dry hadn’t yet made it to the United States, oude jenever is the most historically accurate spirit for this cocktail.

TEXT BY Allison Guy

You may have already sampled some Dutch treats. If you’re brave you might have even tried a kroket or salty liquorice. But what about jenever?

ingredients - 6 cl oude jenever - 2 cl sweet vermouth - 1 cl maraschino liqueur or Cointreau - 1 dash Angostura bitters

instructions

While modern gin is associated with England, cocktail lovers actually have the Dutch to thank for their martinis. Jenever (pronounced juhnay-ver), named after the Dutch word for ‘juniper’, is the original version of gin, and the Netherlands’ most under-appreciated drink. Poor students The invention of jenever is attributed to the Dutch physician Sylvius de Bouve. In 1650 the clever doctor took korenbrandewijn – barley wine – and added sweet-smelling herbs to help the medicine go down. While juniper berries remain the main flavouring, jenever can contain just about any type of spice from coriander to wormwood. The drink is divided into two main varieties: oude and jonge. The jonge (young) variety originated in the 20th century, a result of new distillation methods and wartime barley shortages. Jonge is a clear spirit with a dry, neutral flavour. The caramel-coloured oude (old) variety is made using traditional production methods and has a sweet, rich taste that makes it the jenever of choice for serious imbibers. A knock on the head Jenever has suffered for its déclassé associations as the drink of poor students and grumpy old men. Despite this, jenever remains the Netherlands’ most popular spirit, making up a quarter of all hard alcohol washed down each year. With the recent revival of cocktail culture

Pour ingredients into a shaker or mixing glass with ice. Stir and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon.

s Try thi ! at h o m e and all things ‘heritage’, jenever is now experiencing a return to respectability. Amsterdam has several proeflokalen (tasting houses) where you can see if it’s worth the fuss. Wynand Fockink, at Pijlsteeg 31, is the granddaddy of jenever in Amsterdam. The distillery has operated at the same location since 1679, and still uses the original equipment to make its tipple.

Jenever is served straight-up in a tulip-shaped glass, poured nearly to overflowing. Etiquette dictates that the drinker bend over to take the first slurp. A common way to numb jenever’s sting is to chase it with a swig of beer, a combination called the kopstoot, or ‘head butt’. For something first created as a medicine, a knock to the head might be the best way to describe a day at the proeflokaal.

‘Jan’ Collins The Tom Collins, a mixed drink with gin and lemon, was introduced in the 1870s to commemorate a widespread hoax, where people in the US would start a conversation with “Have you seen Tom Collins” and “He’s been talking about you”. Agitated listeners would wonder who this rude Tom guy was, but of course Tom Collins was nonexistent. Two years after this hoax, the cocktail was invented. As with the Martinez, jenever is more true-to-the-times than standard-issue gin.

ingredients - 6 cl oude jenever - 3 cl freshly squeezed lemon juice - Drizzle of simple syrup (one part sugar to one part water, boiled until sugar dissolves)

instructions Combine the ingredients with ice in a shaker. Shake and strain over crushed ice in a tall glass. Top with soda water, and garnish with a lemon wheel.

Proost! (Cheers!) 17


meet the dutch

Actress

Carice van Houten: ‘My personal happiness lies in much more than acting’ Tom Cruise To Carice, a career in acting was a natural calling. But, unlike her movie character, she doesn’t have a difficult relationship with her father – a cultured Dutch-Scottish novelist, musician and film historian who raised his daughters (Carice has a sister: Jelka) by taking them to museums, theatre shows and classic movies.

In her latest film, Black Butterflies, Carice van Houten is Ingrid Jonker – a South African poet whose work was recited by Nelson Mandela almost 30 years after she committed suicide. Not exactly a light-hearted script. What attracted Carice? by Mathilde Hoekstra

Against the backdrop of censorship by the National Party, the work of writer Ingrid Jonker, daughter of a right-wing minister for the National Party during apartheid, gained increasing popularity. The true importance of her work, however, was only recognised after Nelson Mandela recited one of her poems during his first speech to the South African Parliament in 1994: almost 30 years after her suicide. ‘The complex character of Ingrid Jonker and the hopeless quest for her father’s recognition was appealing to me,’ Carice says.

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Amsterdam

magazine

After she was discovered by casting director Hans Kemna at the age of 21, Carice went on to win four Golden Calf Awards and three Rembrandt Awards for Best Actress. Her role in Paul Verhoeven’s Black Book (2006) kick-started her international career, which has so far seen her appear alongside Tom Cruise in Valkyrie; Jude Law in Repo Man and Clive Owen in the upcoming film Intruders. Too old for the job How does a girl who spent her childhood in a cottage in the countryside near Bunnik survive a place like Hollywood? ‘Sometimes I encounter the lack of risktaking and people can be quite harsh,’ she admits. But that doesn’t make her want to give up. At 34 years old, Carice is still young by most people’s standards; but, in an industry that notoriously favours youth, I wonder how long she is willing to persevere in order to achieve an international breakthrough – and what she will do if that breakthrough doesn’t materialise?

‘I don’t bore myself with those kind of questions,’ she says. ‘My personal happiness lies in much more than just acting.’ So if her happiness does not lie in acting, where does it lie? As a child Carice dreamt of becoming either an actress or a writer. Like her dad. And Ingrid Jonker. Does that ambition still exist? Does she, like the main character in Black Butterflies, feel the urge to write anything in order to change the world? ‘I don’t want to change the world,’ she says. ‘But I do want to express my feelings. And yes, I write. Not poetry. Although I did that a lot as a teenager.’ Sentimental bastard At the moment, instead of publishing books (the publishers are waiting in line though), she expresses her emotions mainly through a magazine column and on Twitter. For example: ‘Tonight I dreamt of being a bus driver that had to transport hordes of festival visitors.’ Or: ‘Just ran into a Paparazzi trap wearing pyjamas, greasy hair, glasses. I’m cursing at the picture again. #theglamourouslife’. Yes, Carice van Houten is a funny girl. Quite the opposite of Ingrid Jonker who, according to Carice, was a ‘highly sensitive, damaged but beautiful poet.’ As for Carice, this is how she describes herself: ‘Actress, human being, music freak. Sentimental bastard. That’s right, I said bastard.’


PHOTO courtesy of a-film

meet the dutch

19



magnified

shop

de knopenwinkel

w

h i l e t h e i d e a of a s hop d e d i c at e d s ole ly to bu tt o n s m ay p r ovoke a s ly

s ni gg e r a m o n g s o m e of y ou , a vis it t o t h e K n o pe n w i n k e l ju s t might o p e n y ou r e ye s t o t h e n ic he wor l d o f b utt on c ol l e c t i n g !

By Arun Sood Situated on a scenic corner of the Herengracht, the Knopenwinkel – which literally translates as ‘Button Shop’ – is an exquisitely designed boutique offering all manner of button-related goods.

Exotic Goods

As you enter the quaint little shop, the first thing that strikes you is the great attention paid to detail and style. Thousands of buttons, ranging from classic bone to mother of pearl, are stowed away in glass jars and decorative hangings are elegantly draped over the walls. Situated in a 1920s canal house, the shop fuses vintage European style with a distinctly Asian influence and harks back to the days when Dutch traders would return home with exotic goods from around the world.

Unsurprisingly, the inspiration for the shop came after owner Thea De Boer returned from travelling in 2001. ‘I travelled extensively throughout Southeast Asia and began collecting unique buttons, fabrics and embroideries from different countries,’ she says. ‘When I returned, I noticed there was a lack of shops like this in Amsterdam and decided to open one specialising in buttons.’

‘It’s hard to survive’ Beyond Buttons

While buttons are Thea’s focal point, the boutique also offers a variety of other international goods. Almost everything found on the premises is for sale, from deer antlers to antique Tibetan caps and even a selection of homeware that Thea expertly creates using old buttons. Thea likes to showcase the work of local artists and has created a gallery space at the back of the boutique. ‘For me, the gallery is a very important part of the shop and new artists are featured on a regular

basis,’ she says. ‘But it seems that art sales and general interest in the paintings has declined in the past few years. Perhaps the economic crisis has led to a lack of tourists who are interested in buying.’

Unique Character

In an age of mass-market design and economic crisis, the number of independent boutiques like the Knopenwinkel is slowly diminishing and Thea believes that people must begin to make a conscious effort to support small businesses. ‘It’s becoming increasingly hard for shops like mine to survive, which is a shame because we give places a unique sense of character.’ Browsing through the Knopenwinkel, you immediately gain a sense of Thea’s passion for tailor-made goods and rare artefacts. While the idea of a button shop might initially seem a little strange, her immaculately presented collection and artistic offerings undoubtedly make a visit to the boutique worthwhile. Besides, if the art and accessories aren’t quite to your taste, the Knopenwinkel is quite simply the perfect place to brighten up your old clothes with some new buttons. You’ll be spoilt for choice.

De Knopenwinkel Herengracht 389 +31 (0)20 6269472 www.knopenwinkel.net

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amsterdam eats

amserdam eats

Tomatillo BY: hungry in holland

In pursuit of culinary delights beyond bitterballen and frites, our expat foodie visits Tomatillo: a cheap Tex-Mex eatery.

‘The mains did not make the cut’

L

ocated slightly away from the centre on the Overtoom, this tiny but sleek hole-in-the-wall literally consists of three tables and a kitchen. There isn’t much room for lavish furniture or extravagant decor, but the restaurant walls are used as a rotating gallery space, currently showcasing a black and white photo series by a Mexican photographer. The vibe inside is laidback and leans more towards being a counter-top type eatery rather than a fancy restaurant. There were only four customers when I visited during the lunchtime rush but, considering the size, this took up two-thirds of the room. The friendly server immediately greeted me with the menu and I was pleased to find many Tex-Mex classics such as carnitas and chorizo tacos on fresh corn tortillas. Muchos Salsa For starters, I went for the classic chips, salsa, and guacamole. The guacamole was fresh and smooth, made with perfectly ripe avocados. Unlike the awful pasty tomato sauce that’s usually offered to substitute salsa on this continent, I was pleased to find a plethora of tasty options to drown my tortilla chips in. I ended up with a very spicy habanero salsa which was so satisfying I ordered a second round to accompany the main course. To cool my peppery tongue, I ordered a mango liquados: an ubiquitous drink in Mexico but rarely found abroad. It turned out to be the freshest juice I’ve had in Amsterdam and the highlight of my lunch. The refreshing drink was not overwhelmingly sugary and had a hint of sweetness that could only be achieved by using fresh, ripe ingredients as opposed to the syrupy substitutes so often used. European Tex-Mex Attaining authenticity in Tex-Mex cuisine is somewhat of an oxymoron given that, even in the southernmost regions of North America, anything not considered interior Mexican cuisine gets slapped with a Tex-Mex label. That said, there is still much debate over what is Tex-Mex and what is great Tex-Mex.

The Outcome F Happy Taste Buds? Customer Service Interior Value for Money

Final Score:

§§§22 §§§§2 §§§42 §§§§§

7.4

Round-Up Cuisine: Tex-Mex Neighbourhood: Overtoom, South Atmosphere: Quiet Price pp: €5 to €15 Open: Tues-Sun 12pm to 9pm, closed on Mon Public transport: Tram 1 Credit cards accepted: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes

Tomatillo definitely falls under the category of Tex-Mex and their starters matched up to some of the best offerings found in North America. Their mains, though filling and satisfying, unfortunately did not make the cut. The huevos rancheros was a bit lacklustre and needed to be doused in habanero salsa to become flavourful. The chorizo and carnitas tacos tasted very similar despite having ordered two different salsa and meat offerings. It was a considerably standard Tex-Mex affair and a bit of a letdown after such great appetisers. Five-Euro Meal Despite my criticism, I have to reveal I’m a bit of a Tex-Mex snob and even restaurants just north of the Mexican border have failed to satisfy my demanding taste buds. However, by Amsterdam Tex-Mex standards, Tomatillo has rocketed far beyond the common denominator and, considering most dishes cost between €3 and €7, it will be tough to beat this priceto-quality ratio anywhere in the city.

What others said: Iens.nl: “Top Tex-Mex, best burrito’s in town! Really friendly service.” - chicap Tripadvisor.com: “If you want good mexican in amsterdam the only place worth mentioning is the new Tomatillo” - somethingbetter

Tomatillo Overtoom 31 +31 (0)20 6833086 www.tomatillo.nl

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word on the street

On 30 April Amsterdam turns completely orange (our national colour) for Queen Beatrix’s birthday. Locals and tourists alike dance, sing and basically go crazy on Koninginnedag. Amsterdam Magazine asks tourists in front of the Royal Palace on Dam Square what they know and think about our royal family.

Word on the street By Marieke Verhoeven Photography: Sarah Moore

‘Forget about world peace’

Sofie (21) & Paula (22)

Sofie: ’I’m not a big supporter of monarchies. It’s strange to give this small group of people power just because they are born a certain way. On the other hand, I see the symbolic value of having a national family that people Paula: (Looks at the pictures of the royals) ‘I’ve can relate to.’ never seen them before. They look friendly.’ right? (Ed. Someone ran his car into the crowd that was

From: Germany and Colombia Profession: Sofie studies fine arts in Maastricht, Paula studies art direction in Milan.

But I’ve never been here for Queen’s Day, would be great though!’

What do you know about the Dutch royals?

The royals don’t pay taxes and all their expenses are covered. What do you think about that?

Sofie: ’Well, I know who Queen Beatrix and her son Prince Willem-Alexander are. And I remember there was an incident two years ago on Queen’s Day,

watching the royal family’s Queen’s Day parade.)

If you were queen for a day, what would you do?

Sofie: ‘I’d try to do as many good deeds as possible, work on world peace and so on. That Paula: ’I feel that kind of makes sense. Travel- would be a busy day though...’ Paula: ‘Forget about world peace, I would just ling to other countries and throwing parties – hang around the palace all day!’ that’s what royals are supposed to do right?’

25


‘We’re paying taxes for them to travel around the world’

Lars (19) & Stine (23)

From: Denmark Profession: Lars is starting college, Stine studies fashion design.

What are you planning to do in Amsterdam?

Lars: ’It’s our first time here and we just want to enjoy the city, walk around and see where we end up. We’ve only just arrived, but I already love the

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architecture. Take the buildings here on Dam Square, they’re all very different styles, but somehow fit together really well.’ Stine: ‘I would like to visit the nine streets (ed., De Negen Straatjes – a shopping district with lots of boutiques) and design studio Droog Design. They’re not the typical must sees, but I’m a fashion design student, so these are the things that interest me.’

How do you feel about monarchies?

Lars: ’That’s a hard question. We have royals in Denmark and I have mixed feelings about it. On the one hand, they serve an important

role for the national feeling of a country. But on the other hand, we’re paying taxes for them to travel around the world and visit all these events. I don’t really see the value in that.’

Are the royals popular in Denmark?

Stine: ‘Yes, very much so. Our royal princess recently gave birth to twins and that was all over the news.’ Lars: ‘They are on TV quite a lot, I think the Danish like having this national family to relate to. But unfortunately, we don’t have any big celebrations like your Queen’s Day in Denmark.’


‘The English queen I recognise’

Takuro (25) & Keiko (23) From: Tokyo and Kyoto Profession: Takuro works for a computer business, Keiko studies banking.

How are you enjoying Amsterdam so far?

Keiko: ’I like it! But we just arrived yesterday, so we haven’t done that much yet. We did visit the Red Light District, I guess it’s a must see in Amsterdam.’

Takuro: ‘We brought a travel book from Japan with suggestions on where to go. We want to do some shopping and we might visit some museums. But it’s hard figuring out where to go with all these small streets!’

Did you know that the Netherlands is a constitutional monarchy?

Takuro: ’No, we had no idea. But then again, we didn’t know a lot about the country at all. The English queen I recognise; she’s pretty famous all around the world. But I’ve never seen images of your royal family.’

Keiko: ’We have royals in Japan as well, but we don’t really care about them. We see them on the news sometimes, but I don’t feel they’re like our “national family” or anything.’

If you were king for a day, what would you do?

Takuro: ‘I would gather a big crowd of people and just have them cheer for me. That would be pretty awesome.’ Keiko: ‘It would take longer than a day, but as a king I would travel around the world. Just to visit other royal families and hang out with them.’

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FEATURED

Royal Trivia The Netherlands has been a constitutional monarchy since 1848, meaning that the king or queen does not have unlimited power. That power is officially shared with Dutch ministers and the parliament. In practice, Beatrix has very little influence on the country at all. Her role is mainly ceremonial.

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FEATURED

Long live the Queen Unknowing tourists who happen to be in Amsterdam on 30

photo: Anton Corbijn | RVD

April are in for quite a shock. Queen’s Day is the biggest party of the year, drawing hundreds of thousands of people to the city. But what are we celebrating? And why? Don’t be a fool – prepare yourself! By: Mike Peek

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Royal Trivia

T

he Netherlands has not been a monarchy forever. In fact, while most European countries happily

hailed their kings and queens in the 18th century, we lived in a deteriorating republic with no sense of solidarity among

At the start of the Second World War, queen Wilhelmina fled to London. She returned on 13 March 1945, shortly before the Netherlands was liberated. Wilhelmina has been widely criticised for leaving her country in times of despair and some even accused her of hauling with the enemy. Others, however, said that she had no choice. From London, Wilhelmina gave radio speeches encouraging her people to oppose the enemy. Had the queen stayed at home, Ze Germans would probably have silenced her.

its inhabitants. Oddly, that changed when the country was controlled by France and Napoleon Bonaparte put his brother Lodewijk on a shiny new throne. He ruled from 1806 until 1810 and became quite popular. So popular in fact that Napoleon deposed him for putting our interests

Some marketing genius thought of exploiting the five-year-old princess.

above his. But Napoleon was already on his way

The first ‘Princess Day’ was held on 31

out. He lost the Battle of Leipzig in 1813

August, Wilhelmina’s birthday, in 1885.

and consequently his grip on Europe.

The girl was later paraded through the

That’s where our current monarchy re-

streets of just about every city, franti-

ally starts. Willem Frederik van Oranje-

cally waving her tiny hands off. It was

Nassau (Willem I) was appointed king,

an instant success. Finally, Dutchies

but failed to match the popularity of

had a collective idol and some were even

Lodewijk. His successors Willem II and

tingling with national pride. That’s right

Willem III didn’t fare much better. The

folks, nothing raises the spirit like a

young kingdom wavered until some mar-

chubby-cheeked princess.

keting genius thought of exploiting fiveyear-old Wilhelmina, daughter of Willem

Birth of the Vrijmarkt

III, to improve the royals’ image.

When Wilhelmina turned 18, she inher-

First king of Holland: Lodewijk Napoleon Bonaparte

ited the throne and Princess Day became Queen’s Day. But by then Wilhelmina was tired of waving and no longer appeared at her own birthday. That clearly put a dampener on things, but Queen’s Day did become quite the children’s party. It coincided with the end of their summer holiday and provided the perfect excuse for one last day of carefree games like

koekhappen. I honestly have no idea how to explain to you what koekhappen is, and can only hope our beloved art director will show you with a picture. Juliana was crowned in 1948 and moved Koekhappen: A typically Dutch children’s game where kids have to eat a biscuit dangling from a string.

Queen’s Day to her own birthday on 30 April. Juliana was quite something. She let everyone call her ‘madam’ instead of ‘Majesty’ and was widely beloved be-

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Young Princess Wilhelmina


Royal Trivia While the majority of the Dutch population favours the monarchy, some question certain royal privileges. Like tax exemption. The family’s fortune is estimated at between €400 and €800 million and Beatrix, Willem-Alexander and Máxima receive a combined yearly salary of some €7 million, paid for by tax money. Yet they don’t have to pay taxes themselves. Weird?!

cause of that down-to-earth attitude. Her reign also saw the birth of the most famous part of Queen’s Day celebrations in Amsterdam: the vrijmarkt (flea market).

The vrijmarkt was basically a security

Vrijmarkt

measure in disguise. Our current queen, Queen Beatrix, married a German in

The wares are only part of the fun

1966, at a time when most people still

though. Most people come to experience

vividly remembered the Second World

the atmosphere, have a chat and drink

War. Anti-German and republican senti-

some beers. Be careful with food. If that

ments caused riots in Amsterdam dur-

hamburger you queued for is still raw,

ing the marriage ceremony and on sub-

just throw it away. Please. Your stomach

sequent Queen’s Days. But some smart

will thank me later.

bureaucrats had the perfect solution: the small vrijmarkten in the outer boroughs,

Until 1996, the vrijmarkt started the night

mostly run by children, were now allowed

before Queen’s Day and the party lasted

in the city centre as well. Now everybody

some 24 hours. But ‘Queen’s Night’ has

could make some money by selling their

been heavily stripped since then. Exces-

old crap. And they did, en masse, leaving

sive alcohol consumption often led to

no room for protestors. Problem solved.

fights and it was almost impossible for

Royal Trivia Perhaps the most controversial figure in recent royal history, Prince Bernhard (husband of queen Juliana) was a rebel, war hero, ladies’ man and fraud. In spite of him taking bribes, blackmailing people and fathering illegitimate children, Bernhard remained popular throughout his life. The Dutch like a guy who gets things done, even (or perhaps especially) if his methods are shady at best. He died in 2004, aged 93, undoubtedly taking many secrets to his grave.

emergency services to reach the city Queen’s Day in Amsterdam

centre because the streets were clogged

While there are a lot of other things to do

with people. There’s still live music at

in Amsterdam on Queen’s Day, the vrij-

some places until 1am, but all cafes

markt is the heart and soul of the festivi-

are shut down between 1am and 9am.

ties. Days before it actually starts, ‘mer-

The city calls it a ‘quiet pe-

chants’ try to mark their spot of choice

riod’, essential for ensuring

using tape or chalk. And when dawn fi-

an orderly transition be-

nally breaks, bargain hunters rise early

tween night and day. Basically, they hope

to snatch the best deals. Yes, there’s a

drunks will sober up (or even better: go

whole lot of junk for sale on Queen’s Day

the fuck home), so daytime activities are

(I spotted an old toilet seat once with a

not disturbed and remain gezellig.

Now everybody could make some money by selling their old crap.

note that said: ‘Never pooped on’), but the vrijmarkt is also a very good place

Unfortunately, Queen’s Day itself is now

to find that out-of-print book you always

restricted as well. Major Eberhard van

wanted or a rare LP by some long-forgot-

der Laan announced that all festivities

ten musician.

will end one hour earlier this year (most

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FEATURED

Royal Trivia around 8pm), giving public transport

Inhabitants often spend months prepar-

more time to get out-of-towners home

ing for the big day. A variety of local cus-

safely. He also said that Amsterdam just

toms are shown to the queen, children

can’t handle any more visitors. Up to one

sing songs and if the princes are in the

million people come to the city on 30

right mood, they might even participate

April and a lot of them gather around

in some silly game. Oh, and there’s a lot

the relatively small Leidseplein and

of waving too. Yes, it’s all a bit old-fash-

Rembrandtplein. Van der Laan called on

ioned, and usually devoid of any sponta-

other cities in the North-Holland prov-

neity, but it’s a tradition we would hate to

ince to offer more attractive Queen’s Day

lose. Two years ago, we almost did.

Prince Willem-Alexander is the oldest son of Queen Beatrix and the current heir to the throne. While in his twenties, WillemAlexander was often mocked for being a fat, silly guy more interested in drinking beer than anything else. He astounded the country by dating (and later marrying) drop dead gorgeous Máxima Zorreguieta in 1999. Sure, her father turned out to be a controversial Argentinean politician, but Máxima’s smile was way too beautiful for us to be bothered by such details. Máxima quickly became the most popular member of the Dutch royal family.

festivities. That will hopefully take some pressure off Amsterdam.

2009 The wounds are still fresh. In 2009, Beat-

Beatrix

rix and her entourage celebrated Queen’s

When Juliana headed the Dutch monar-

Day in the city of Apeldoorn. The weather

chy, a procession was held on Queen’s

was nice, the people happy. Until Karst

Day. Thousands of people came to her

Tates came by in his black

palace in Soestdijk, offering flowers to

Suzuki Swift and ruined it

their queen. Juliana and her family would

all. Thirty-eight-year-old

wave at the crowd in return. For many it

Tates drove straight through the barri-

archs being able to mingle with the com-

felt as if she invited her subjects to the

cades along the route and killed seven

mon man was belied. Shouldn’t we just

royal home, adding to her reputation as

people in the process. All festivities in

stop celebrating?

a ‘queen of the people’. From the 1950s

Apeldoorn were immediately cancelled.

onwards the procession was broadcast

With his last breath, Tates declared that

Only hours after the attack, Beatrix of-

on national television, turning it into an

he had meant to harm the royal family.

fered her condolences to the victims’

even bigger event.

Because he died shortly after the reck-

families on national television. It was

less attack, his exact motives remain

probably her most heartfelt and sincere

unclear.

speech. She was clearly in shock, but

Beatrix succeeded her mother in 1980.

The wounds are still fresh.

She decided not to move Queen’s Day to

later decided that future Queen’s Days

her own birthday on 31 January, because

After their investigation, the police con-

would go on as planned. In 2010, the

the weather is usually too cold for out-

cluded that Tates was a loner whose life

royal family visited Middelburg and We-

door activities at that time of year. But

was going nowhere. There was no larger

meldinge in the Zeeland province. The

she did change the protocol. Instead of

organisation behind the attacks that

atmosphere was tense but, perhaps

inviting people, she visits them. While

could be stopped; Tates had acted on his

thanks to extreme security measures,

party seekers are flooding Amsterdam,

own. That concerned a lot of people. If it

there were no incidents. Afterwards,

Beatrix and most of her family members

happened once, it could happen again.

Beatrix said Zeeland had given Queen’s

visit two towns (usually a mid-sized city

There’s surely no shortage of loonies out

Day back to her family and the country as

and a smaller settlement) in a different

there. Some claimed Queen’s Day had

a whole. More than ever, the 2010 edition

province each year.

lost its innocence. The naive idea of mon-

was about solidarity.

Royal Triv ia

If you haven’ t noticed that orange is ou on Queen’s Da r national co y. It’s origin lour, you will lies in the 16th Orange led th century, whe e Dutch War of n Willem of In de his last name pendence agai after he inherit nst Spain. Will ed a French pr em got incedom calle d Orange.

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photo: RVD

FEATURED

Prince Willem-Alexander and Princess Mรกxima with their three kids: Amalia, Alexia and Ariane 33


getting around

Highlander at Zuid-Kennemerland

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getting around

Spring in Bloemendaal By: Mike Peek

Bloemendaal has a nice church, a reasonable centre and some stunning villas set in beautiful surroundings. A must see? Not really. Not unless you’re planning to explore Zuid-Kennemerland, a national park consisting mainly of sand dunes, forests and beaches.

W

hen I think of Bloemendaal, I think of rich people. I picture them hosing their lush gardens in slow motion and waving at each other with fake smiles on their faces. If David Lynch ever wants to make a movie in the Netherlands, this would be the place to shoot it. Just add some ominous music and suddenly that old lady wearing an expensive fur coat becomes a potential serial killer, musing happily about her latest victim. The reality is less exciting. Bloemendaal is a sleepy town and, when I visited, most people were spending the early spring Saturday shopping or enjoying the unusually mild weather. A lot of kids were playing hockey, the sport of choice for well-off Dutchies. All was good. And a bit boring. Bloemendaal is a charming place to wander through, but I wouldn’t call it unmissable. So why visit?

Because Bloemendaal makes an excellent base for exploring Zuid-Kennemerland national park. A walk from the train station in Bloemendaal to ‘Bloemendaal aan Zee’ (a small seaside resort at the far end of the park) can take anywhere from three to six hours, depending on which route you decide to follow. If you prefer biking (or even horse riding), that’s possible as well.

Stick to the paths There are several ways into the park. The gate to enter if you’re coming from Bloemendaal is called Bleek en Berg, some 500 metres beyond the hockey fields. There are signs telling you how far each destination is. I decided to head for the Vogelmeer, an artificial lake where birds come to breed or hibernate. The sign said it was a 4.3 km walk. After admiring the lake, I intended to go to the beach – a grand total of 8.5 km, which sounded fine to me.

35


getting around

Unfortunately, I’m an idiot. I have no sense of direction whatsoever, and ever since I got an iPhone I rely on GPS to guide me through life. No need to stick to the paths, adventure calls! I forgot that reception tends to be non-existent in nature areas. When I turned on my phone after half an hour of marching through the dunes, all I saw was a blue dot on a gray grid. So sad: the iPhone knew where I was, but it couldn’t show me because the stupid map wouldn’t load. 1 There I was, lost in the wilderness. I envisioned myself a couple of weeks later, 40 pounds lighter and sporting a full-grown beard, eating insects to survive…until I looked around and saw a paved road about 20 metres to my left. It even had a sign! Vogelmeer: 5.2 km. Could have been worse I guess.

There I was, lost in the wilderness 2

Highlanders Now, staying strictly on the paths, I began to fully enjoy Zuid-Kennemerland. The hilly landscape is really quite unique in the Netherlands, as is the diversity of the flora and fauna in this area. If you want to know exactly what plants and animals to expect, there’s a good English brochure under ‘Visitors Information’ on the park’s website: www. npzk.nl. It’s impossible to see everything in one day, so I suggest you pick your favourites. But – don’t skip the Vogelmeer. It’s a photogenic little lake and even if you’re not a big birdwatcher, the cacophony of different sounds makes for a great lunchtime or dinner concert. If you are a bird watcher, there’s a hut on the lakeside allowing you to observe their behaviour without disturbing the peace. But there’s more to see than birds. A herd of beautiful Scottish Highlanders surrounds the Vogelmeer. Tough-looking creatures, but they wouldn’t harm a fly. Highlanders are excellent grazing cows who help control the vegetation inside the park. They like posing for pictures, too. Time to move on; the ocean awaited. I walked onto the beach by the restaurant Parnassia and walked the last 2 km to Bloemendaal aan Zee along the shore. What a way to bid farewell to Zuid-Kennemerland. I saw dancing children, squawking seagulls, swimming dogs and lovers entwined around each other. My feet hurt like hell, but I didn’t care. Spring never looked prettier.

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Getting There Direct trains run from Amsterdam Centraal to Bloemendaal twice an hour. If you follow the route described in this article and end up in Bloemendaal aan Zee, the easiest way is to take Bus 81 to Zandvoort. Then from Zandvoort, you can catch a train back to Amsterdam. If you just want to see some of Zuid-Kennemerland and skip Bloemendaal altogether, take a train to Overveen (and back). There’s a basic map of the park at www.npzk.nlunder “Bezoekersinformatie” > “Plattegrond”. If you want a more detailed map, visit “Bezoekerscentrum De Zandwaaier”, a visitor’s centre about 1 km from the Overveen train station.

3 4

5

1. Typical Bloemendaal villa 2. Dog-friendly beach 3. Vogelmeer 4. Bird hut at the Vogelmeer 5. Parnassia

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Ever held a .22 to .44. in your hands? At Tref Het Punt shooting club you can!

the shoot-up

Photography: Valentina Vos Stylist: Amber Myhre Bosch @ Angelique Hoorn Hair: Tommy Hagen @ House of Orange for Tommyztoko.nl Make-up: Severine van Donkelaar @ House of Orange for MAC Model: Shona Lee @ Future Faces Assistant Stylist: Mariska Groothuis Assistant Hair: Shao-Lin Kretz Special thanks to Schietvereniging Tref Het Punt

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Blouse: Vintage Trousers: Supertrash Red bowtie: Western House Hat: Stylist’s own

39


Jumpsuit: Goosecraft Blouse: Vintage Fringe coat: Vintage Silver collar clips: Western House Silver cuff: TOV Essentials Cuff with several rings: TOV Essentials Black Cuff: TOV Essentials

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Playsuit: Individuals T-Shirt: American Vintage Checkered blazer: SCAPA Coat: Vintage Clogs: Sanita Footwear

41


Jeans blouse: Lee Jeans overall: MET Jeans Silver cornerclips: Western House Shoes: Jan Taminiau

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43


Jeans overall: Diesel Black Gold Blazer: Lhana Marlet Fringe jacket: Edwin Oudshoorn Red belt: Western House Ring: River Island Clogs: Sanita Footwear

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Amsterdam

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Blouse: Diesel Black Gold Dress: Iris van Herpen Leather bowtie: Western House

45


Dress: Edwin Oudshoorn Top: Gestuz Shoes: ILJA Silver shoe tips: Western House Ring: Vintage

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Tref Het Punt Amstelveenseweg 1 +31 (0)20 4896888 www.trefhetpunt.nl Openinghours: Tue, Wed, Fri, Sun 11am - 11pm

47


knock knock

Knock knock This is how Amsterdam lives Leave it up to a party organiser to decorate an apartment in style. Gijs van de Wint shows Amsterdam Magazine around his amazing house and office on the KNSM-Island. by marieke verhoeven | photography: sarah moore

O

wner Gijs van de Wint, 34, has to admit: the dark labyrinth of hallways and stairs leading to his apartment is not very appealing. ‘It kind of reminds you of a prison, doesn’t it?’ he laughs. But once you set foot inside, the amount of space and light is almost overwhelming. The huge apartment (about 250m2) is located on the KNSM-Island, an area on the north-east side of the city, and offers wide views over the river IJ. Besides a spacious living room, huge bedroom with open bathroom, designer kitchen and several small storage rooms, the house also has a second floor with a big office space. >

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The first thing you notice is a naked ron jeremy 49


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knock knock

Ex Porn Star parties One of the first things you notice while walking through the hallway are posters of busty blondes and a naked Ron Jeremy (ed. one of the most famous porn stars in the world). That calls for some explanation. Under the name Ex Porn Star, Gijs, his brother Ruud and good friend Kamiel have been organising themed parties all over the country for the last ten years. ‘My brother and I were organising parties in Club Winston and wanted to do something bigger. We came up with the name Ex Porn Star while travelling through the US, where we saw a documentary about ex porn stars. We thought that would be a great name for a party organisation.’ While his brother took over the family business a few years ago, Gijs is still fully dedicated to Ex Porn Star. Thanks

‘I don’t own curtains, but nobody can look in’

to their various themed nights, like Halloween and Return of the Pirates, the office is filled with party props and costumes. ‘They all carry special memories, so I love having all this stuff around.’ There’s one recent – and pretty creepy – addition: a huge Chihuahua head. ‘Oh, that’s Chicky, our new mascot. He’s also a DJ,’ Gijs explains. Before finding the apartment five years ago, Gijs and his brother were living in an anti-squat house in the city centre. ‘That was a pretty amazing place as well,’ Gijs recalls. ‘We had about 600 square metres and even a little club space. Our rent was about €100 a month. But when we had to leave, I decided it was time to find a place of my own.’ After his cousin told him a local housing corporation was renting out this huge apartment, it just took one visit to convince Gijs. ‘The housing company was specifically looking for someone who wanted to combine a work and living space. When I saw the amount of space and light, I was instantly sold.’ Although it’s certainly not cheap (Gijs does not like to go into the details) it’s definitely worth it. ‘I saved a lot before by living anti-squat, so I don’t mind compensating with a higher rent. And the office space is partly tax deductible, that helps.’

Stripper pole It was actually a rumour that brought Amsterdam Magazine to Gijs. We heard he had a stripper’s pole in the middle of his living room. ‘True! But that was in my old house,’ he explains. Although there’s no pole here, the house does have another striking feature. In the bedroom there’s a big square bathtub. ‘I don’t own curtains, but because we’re high up no one can look in. So you can just chill in the tub without anybody watching.’ The downside of having no curtains is waking up at dawn. ‘Especially at the weekend – that’s usually when I go to bed. I sometimes move to a storage space upstairs, where it’s always dark.’ Although the place would be perfect for throwing parties, Gijs prefers to keep it quiet. ‘I once celebrated my birthday here with about 50 people. When it started getting wild, I decided to go out. The next morning, I had to completely repaint and clean the place up. So I’m not doing that again any time soon.’

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pimp my bike

Some people are riding around on a monster of a vehicle. Amsterdam Magazine is here to help them out! BY arun sood photography: sarah moore

Michael Krimgen, 26

‘Perhaps the artist could incorporate some computer coding?’

from the traffic jams he was used to in Trier. ‘I had a racing bike in Germany and have always enjoyed cycling, but I could never cycle to work because the city is too spread out and there are too many cars,’ he says. ‘Amsterdam is mapped out so that almost anywhere is accessible by bike. It’s one of my favourite things about the city.’

ycling to work is something most Amsterdammers take for granted. While it’s completely normal for most workers – whether they’re bankers, lawyers or postmen – to put on their work clothes and hop on a bicycle, it’s a method of transport that residents of many other European cities can’t use with such ease.

Like many newcomers to Amsterdam, the first thing Michael did when he arrived was buy a second-hand bicycle. Working as a computer scientist, Michael was unexpectedly placed in Amsterdam by his company and found the best way to explore his new home was by bike. ‘Once you have a bike, it’s so much easier to understand the layout of the place,’ he says. ‘Getting my bike was like getting the keys to the city!’

Keys To The City When Michael Krimgen moved from his home city of Trier in Germany to Amsterdam, it was a pleasant surprise to discover that he could start the day with a brisk morning cycle to his office. It was certainly a welcome change

Having owned his bike for almost two years now, Michael wants Amsterdam Magazine to work its pimpin’ magic on his old set of wheels to rekindle his love of cycling around the city. When asked how he would like the bike to look when it’s finished,

C

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Frans Franciscus The Pimping Artist



‘After applying the first coat of paint, the chain protector ends up shrivelling during the drying process’


pimp my bike

‘it’s a lot more colourful than i expected’

Michael takes a laidback attitude towards the project and seems happy to leave the design in the capable hands of our featured artist. ‘I don’t have any fixed ideas,’ he says. ‘I like gradient colours with lots of shading. Perhaps the artist could incorporate some of my hobbies and interests like computer coding?’ Works Of Mercy Frans Franciscus, our talented artist for this month, grew up in a household where art was highly appreciated. As a child he would watch his father hang new paintings around the house on a regular basis, eventually inspiring Frans to pick up a brush himself in an attempt to convey his creative ideas. After dabbling in film, sculpture and mixed media as an art student some years later, Frans finally decided to hone his skills and make a career for himself as an oil painter. ‘I explored many other mediums, but for me there were always too many people involved.’ says Frans. ‘I much prefer to concentrate on my paintings in my studio alone, it’s the best way for me to express myself.’ In 2010, Frans finished a collection of paintings named Works of Mercy. Each painting in the collection strikes up a dialogue

with certain aspects of the Christian faith, often subverting traditional beliefs to suit a more contemporary reality. Yet despite being named after St. Francis and incorporating several Christian references into his work, Frans insists he has never been particularly religious. ‘I never had a Christian upbringing or knew much about religion until a few years ago,’ he says. ‘But I began to get really into old Christian paintings by the likes of Carvaggio. The stories in them really triggered my imagination and I began to interpret them in my own way, relating them to the world around me as I saw it.’ Digital Rainbow Having spent years mastering his painting technique, Frans decides that he will stick to what he does best when it comes to pimping the bicycle. ‘I could try to incorporate graphic design elements or use spray paints, but I think I will simply use my paint brushes to achieve the gradient colours that Michael described.’ However, after applying the first coat of paint, Frans runs into an unexpected problem. The chain protector on Michael’s bike has a bad reaction to the paint and ends up shrivelling during the drying process. After frantically racing round several bike shops,

Frans eventually finds a replacement part and begins to work on the bike afresh. Frans skilfully blends bright gradient colours into one another, creating the effect of a rainbow spanning across the bike frame. As an added final comedic touch, he then intricately imitates computer coding with a black marker, giving the bike a digital edge relating to Michael’s job as a computer scientist. Upon seeing his newly pimped set of wheels, Michael looks slightly taken aback. ‘It’s a lot more colourful than I expected, but I really like it. I’ve been wanting a new chain guard for a while too so that’s an added bonus!’ One thing’s for sure, he’ll certainly stand out among the hordes of other cyclists biking to work in the morning.

Would you like to have your bike pimped completely? Email us at info@amsterdam-magazine.com and we’ll see what we can do!

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expo

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expo

Abstraction of

Destruction Photographs by J Henry Fair These haunting images are not abstraction, but photographs of industrial scars on our landscape. The paradox established in the indistinct region between abstraction and representation reflects the schizophrenia of despoiling our life support systems in pursuit of our indulgences. Eduard Planting Fine Art Photographs Until 30 April Open: Wed to Sat, 1pm to 6pm. Also by appointment. Eerste Bloemdwarsstraat 2 (+31) (0)20 3206705 www.eduardplanting.com

Lightning Rods

Fort McMurray, Canada f The first step in the oil sands* process after extraction is upgrading, in which the particulate matter is separated from the bitumen and brought to a stage at which refineries can process the different products. This is a photograph of the top of a rusting petroleum tank, with a walkway out to the covered inspection hole in the centre. *Oil sand is basically gooey sand with oil trapped in it

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Facial Tissues

Kenogami Forest, Terrace Bay, Ontario, Canada

h Pulp waste from the manufacture of facial tissues. The wood fibre is obtained from the Kenogami National Forest in Ontario, Canada, where the government subsidises the cutting of this old growth forest for the few jobs that it provides, though in fact the cutting of a forest is so machine intensive that it takes only three men.

Sisyphus

Texas City, TX, USA f Petroleum coke is a solid high-carbon material that is a by-product of the oil refining process. It can serve as either an energy source or a carbon source. Fuel-grade petroleum coke, which serves as an energy source, represents about 71 per cent of the total petroleum coke production. This product is burned to produce energy used in making cement and lime, for co-generation and for other industrial applications. Products that utilise petroleum coke as a carbon source include aluminium (calcined coke) and steel (metallurgical coke).

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foreign exchange

Dutch filmmaker meets expat pornographer Dutch producer/writer/director Stephan Brenninkmeijer talks erotic filmmaking with American expat and feminist pornographer Jennifer Lyon Bell – and lets Amsterdam Magazine eavesdrop... 59


foreign exchange

m l i F n Sex O Stephan Brenninkmeijer (known for his movies Swingers (2003) and Caged (2010)) loves to make films. ‘Basically any film with a good storyline will do,’ he says. ‘Drama intrigues me. Observing human behaviour, enlarging it and drawing lessons from it is my focus. At the moment I’m concentrating on interesting stories that are erotic – in the mainstream landscape I’m the only one in the Netherlands who is doing that.’ By Lauren Wissot J: Do your films share a similar moral about sex? S: I like to think I am a man who tries to tell a story through the eyes of a woman. All my main films have female lead characters. I’m a bit of a feminist in a man’s body. Is that weird? Stepping into these sexual stories was a real eye opener for me. I discovered that a lot of women think like me, but sometimes the same thoughts are judged completely different; that I find fascinating. Do you yourself feel that as an erotic filmmaker who’s also a feminist you have to educate people with your films? In part. I do feel a responsibility to be, well, responsible about the way I show sex in general and female sexuality in particular. But I think it’s more that the things I’m interested in happen to be educational. I wove a condom into the story of my film Matineé because, as a viewer, I was weary of being distracted by the lack of a condom during sex scenes between strangers because I was worried about the female character’s wellbeing. I just want to enjoy myself, and seeing a condom helps me do that. I know you’re a curator/programmer and the founder of Blue Artichoke Films, but besides your mini-feature Matineé what else have you directed? I’ve made a short film called Headshot and a collaborative feature film that’s coming out in April called Des Jours Plus Belles Que La Nuit. Right now I’m in the middle of shooting an erotic documentary about a beautiful, young Dutch feminist coming out of the closet as a BDSM submissive. I also shot a series in London about young London

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guys telling me their sexual histories and fantasies and then masturbating on camera, and that will be out soon too. They’re all what I call explicit erotic films, except for Headshot, which is very sexual but technically non-explicit. Do you wish your own films had more explicit sex in them? The main reason all my scenes are still simulated is because the actors won’t cross that line. It is up to me to make it look real and I really succeed sometimes. I think it’s a lot of fun to walk that thin line. It pushes your creativity to make it look real and the (positive) tension on the set is more tangible. I mean, if actors did those scenes more often it would be just another day at work. But I shot an orgy scene in Swingers with real swingers and they performed real sex on set. I didn’t show that explicitly in the end, because it was out of sync with the other erotic (simulated) scenes. So what’s the most awkward moment you’ve experienced while working as a filmmaker in the sexual realm? I once had an actor who came during simulated sex. Luckily the actress was not too shocked and handled it well. But the most bizarre moment was with the orgy scene in Swingers where I called ‘Action!’ and 20 people started humping away. I couldn’t stop laughing for minutes. Do you watch porn? Would you want to make porn? Of course I watch porn. Who doesn’t? But professionally I’m not eager to make porn at all. There is so much crappy porn it hurts. Porn has nothing to do with storytelling. It is just a tool for masturbation or serves as appetiser or background. Pornographic

Too hot? Holland’s biggest theatre chain Pathé refused to show Stephan Brenninkmeijer’s Swingers, branding it pornography. The Australian Film Commission banned Jennifer Lyon Bell’s award-winning Matinée from the Melbourne Underground Film Festival the week before it was due to be screened.


foreign exchange

imagery in films, however, could work and is not done well often. Therein lies a challenge and I would be willing to experiment with that. What drives you to make pornographic films? I’m just making the films I’d personally want to see. And as a feminist I want to make films that turn women on. Would or did you ever consider starring in your own film? In theory I’d love it, because I love acting and I love sex. But there are two reasons that I don’t. One – not only am I not an exhibitionist, I would definitely be too shy to be able to enjoy having sex in front of the camera. The other reason is that performing doesn’t fit into the current romantic relationship that I have, which I do cherish. Oh, well. So if you heard that someone masturbated to a film you made, what would your reaction be? Actually I talked to someone lately who confessed she did. It made her blush and me proud, because it was meant to be erotic. Have you ever gotten physically aroused on set?

in films. Your films adhere to that? I’m afraid Paul Verhoeven traumatised Dutch audiences in the 70s and they still have to overcome that. In that period nudity was badly lit and in your face. For the last couple of decades nudity in Dutch films has been rare. There is a comeback now but people still associate these new films with the hairy, bouncy nude scenes that didn’t necessarily add to the storyline. So in part I agree that we have a bad reputation, but Dutch films have evolved into a more prudish showing of nudity than mainstream American films. It looks like Dutch filmmakers don’t dare to reinvent erotic scenes. My scenes are different of course. In both my films sexuality IS the story. So is there any subject matter you really want to show, and what (legal) subject matter do you not, even if someone offered you a lot of money? I was once offered a possible job directing a BDSM script in which the final situation turned bad. Because I feel I’m kink-positive I refused the opportunity (even though I loved the production

‘Twenty people started humping away.

I couldn’t stop laughing’ I myself am never aroused on the set. It is hard work and it takes a lot of concentration to shoot those scenes. Technically they’re just like any other scene, be it action or emotional scenes. They need planning and you have to get those images in your head onto the screen. In editing, however, things can be different. That’s when I know a scene works. Is there personal sexual tension for you during any part of the filmmaking process? Just like you said, I don’t feel it on the set but I do feel something in the editing, and that’s how I know I’m on the right track. I do feel sort of a buzz during shooting when everything is clicking, but it’s not the same feeling at all as being turned on in my private life. Maybe it’s some kind of unique filmdirectors-only arousal? For the first time last week I got a little turned on describing to someone the plot of my new art-house fiction film, so I took that as a good sign that the film is going to be exciting – at least to me anyway. The Dutch, though, have a reputation for including unnecessary sexual scenes

company) because I felt the film sent a message that BDSM ruins lives. In my experience that’s practically the opposite of true. And there are a heck of a lot of kink-negative scripts out there. In terms of what I’d love to show, I’d like to show sexual relationships that aren’t romantic, but are still intimate – really excellent one-night-stand situations, for example. Do you consider your films realistic? They’re always emotionally realistic, but not necessary literally realistic. The art-house, erotic fiction feature I just started making follows the lonely – and eventually joyful – story of a young woman who finds that she has an unusual erotic fixation. Though she doesn’t want to be seen, and isn’t an exhibitionist, she craves being naked while other people are clothed. So she has to find a way to feel satisfied both sexually and emotionally because she’s chosen an unusual path. And eventually she finds a friend who may share the same feelings and sense of adventure. That’s not realistic, in that I’ve never met anyone with this fixation, but it feels very true to me.

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the ten

QUEEN’S DAY TIPS Toss the Fourth of July, Oktoberfest and a flea market into a blender and you might wind up with Koninginnedag – a celebration that takes place on 30 April. Come rain or shine, the streets of Amsterdam will be packed with revellers. Here’s a list of ten tips to help you celebrate! By Brandon Hartley photos by sarah moore

1

Go out on Koninginnenacht

Hit the bars and clubs the night before the real-deal. Koninginnenacht, or ‘Queen’s Night’ in English, is practically a holiday in and of itself with dozens of Amsterdam establishments hosting special events, mostly outdoors and free to attend.

2

Stake out a spot to sell your wares

The vrijmarkt (flea market) is a big part of Queen’s Day. It’s basically a gigantic, nationwide flea market in which sellers offer their goods (food, second-hand clothes or furniture) on the streets. Many reserve prominent spots on Amsterdam’s pavements or in parks several days beforehand using duct tape. Stake out your spot in time: one week’s notice isn’t unusual.

3

Cover yourself in orange

While no one will pinch you a la St. Patrick’s Day if you forgot to don a garment featuring the day’s official colour, it is considered bad form. Lots of citizens cover themselves from headto-toe in orange to honour the colours of the House of Orange-Nassau, while others settle for a wig or a hat. If you feel so inclined, keep an eye out for face-painters that will happily use your cheeks as a canvas for a Dutch flag in exchange for a few Euros.

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7

Feeling ‘hip’? Go to the Jordaan district

On Queen’s Day, the Jordaan is usually the cool place to head if you’re in search of music or brews. Many bars host small outdoor concerts.

4

8

Drink an Oranjebitter

Aim for Museumplein or Rembrandtplein. Both areas are where you’ll find large, openair concerts that typically attract thousands of festival-goers. Last year, the all-day show at Museumplein reportedly drew 300,000 people. National FM station Radio 538 will be hosting again this year.

This orange-coloured liqueur is made from herbs and orange peel. Oranjebitter is sipped from small glasses for those who can handle its sharp, tart taste. It’s also often mixed with soda water or orange juice for a more refreshing flavour.

5

‘Hip’ isn’t really your thing? But live music is?

Got kids in tow? Head to Vondelpark

Many families opt to celebrate here with a relaxing picnic. In addition to various kidfriendly events, Vondelpark is also where many local children set up stands to sell used toys and lemonade.

6

Have a Queen’s Day Tompouce

This two-layer, cream-filled pastry can be found at stands around town. It’s typically served with pink icing but, on Queen’s Day, orange icing takes its place. You can make your own at home with a variety of recipes available online.

9

Watch the boat jams...from a safe distance

Many locals take to Amsterdam’s canals to drink, feast, sing and dance on boats throughout the day. As the hour gets later and as they get more, well, ‘celebratory’, caution is usually thrown to the wind and boat jams are commonplace.

10

Drink and be merry

More than anything, that’s what Queen’s Day is really all about. Regardless of your drink of choice, be sure to squeeze a few drops of orange food colouring into your glass beforehand.

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wet your whistle

Café Finch Eager to go out for drinks but unwilling to dress up? Looking to throw back a few beers while avoiding football fans hypnotised by HDTVs? Then you might want to give Café Finch a shot. By Brandon Hartley

I

f a trendy lounge and a cosy pub were to ever have a midnight tryst, this café and lounge on the Noordermarkt might be the bouncing bi-product of their fling. Café Finch bridges the gap between fashionable and comfortable. It’s a popular refuge for both after-work crowds and shoppers eager to rest their feet after a trip to the nearby organic market. Here you’ll find many of the slick adornments you’ve seen in a thousand other ‘hip’ hot spots – vaguely retro lighting, dark upholstery and tiny tables perfect for intimate conversations.

The food menu, however, is rather impressive and further reflects Finch’s schizophrenic ambiance. I looked it over while downing a pint on the pavement terrace out front. A dessert called ‘Apple Pie From My Auntie’ sits a few spots below a list of sultry Asian dishes. One of the chefs from Amsterdam’s popular Nam Kee Chinese restaurants reportedly whipped it all together. Finch’s exterior is also an odd mishmash. Its canary-yellow awning and glowing ‘Brand Bier’ sign look like they were cut and pasted from a neighbourhood hangout. Then there’s the winding limbs of a bush that dwell over the front door, offering a vibe straight out of a ‘How to Create a Stylish Lounge’ manual.

‘The menu reflects Finch’s schizophrenic ambiance’

Even the customers are contradictions. As I finished my beer, I found myself chatting with a well-dressed bloke who probably had a Bentley parked around the corner. Despite his highfalutin airs, he had the personality of an old salt in an Irish tavern. We talked about ales and politics before I paid my tab and headed off into the night.

Yet this familiar slew of pretence is undercut by the bar’s chatty regulars, friendly staff and the proprietor’s cheeky decor choices. Is that a kitschy painting of a grey-haired grandma over near the bar? Why, yes indeed. The Tracys from the ‘60s show Thunderbirds leer down from a row of framed posters, gazing over the clientele like eavesdropping gargoyles trying to suppress a round of smirks. The bar was jam-packed on a Friday night when I stopped in for something to quench my thirst. After getting bounced around the room like a pinball, I fought my way to the bar and asked for a cocktail menu. The bartender shook her head and said: ‘Um....actually, we don’t have one. Would you like a beer instead?’ If you’re on the prowl for €15 martinis with clever names, then Finch isn’t the place for you.

Café Finch Noordermarkt 5H Open: Mon-Thu & Sun 9am-1pm, Fri-Sat 9am-3pm +31 (0)20 6262461

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Shhh... aMSTERDAM SLEEPS

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amsterdam sleeps

The Toren Every night trend-watcher Vincent van Dijk sleeps in a different hotel. His goal: to find out how (and if) Amsterdam is sleeping. This Issue: The Toren

T

he Toren is an intimate four-star hotel spread across two buildings. It boasts a nice and cosy bar, and room service provided by a local restaurant. The 38 rooms, including luxury suites and a garden cottage, are comfortable and stylish. Over the top I’m supposed to meet a friend and I’m late so I order a taxi and ask the driver to speed up. But when I realise that we’ll be meeting each other in a hotel lobby, I rest assured: I’m positive the staff will treat him in a proper way. That’s what these people do for a living.

‘Oh my God, this is a brothel’

I find my friend reading a novel while he sips his red wine. Obviously he feels at home in this shadowy living room where some distinguished French lady wouldn’t look out of place either. I must admit that it’s tastefully decorated and totally over the top too. Wood panels against the wall, armchairs...

images courtesy of the toren

Weathered mirrors The Toren is a so-called ‘boutique hotel’: elegant, personal and intimate. Every two years the place is redecorated to keep things fresh and quirky. ‘Once a guest asked me how the rooms look,’ a bartender says. ‘When I told her they are similar to the bar, she escaped. Either you love it, or you hate it.’

We take our last glasses upstairs. There’s a whirlpool bath in the middle of the room. Surrounded by weathered mirrors. A chandelier above a bed full of cushions; drapes and table-lamps all over the place; chocolates and strawberries. ‘OMG, this is a brothel,’ my friend says right before he dives into the pile of cushions. No note I make an espresso and take a seat behind the desk to write. I look into the mirror above the desk, but can’t see myself. The man without a face. ‘I am a whore without clients,’ I say to my friend. ‘Sleeping around in all those hotels.’ But he’s fast asleep. The carillon of the Westertoren wakes me up with a melancholy tune. My friend disappeared without leaving a note. I take a bubble bath and go downstairs where the chef is making me eggs – sunny side up. It’s raining outside, but I have to pack my suitcase and leave for the next hotel. The Toren Keizersgracht 164 +31 (0)20 6226352 www.thetoren.nl Room Rate: From €200

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Dutch a-z North’. One hundred kilometers of canals (or grachten in Dutch) divide the city into smaller islands, connected by beautiful historic bridges. The most famous canals are the Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. A canal tour is a great way to view the city from a different angle. The canals were created centuries ago and were often used for transporting goods.

Every issue Amsterdam Magazine covers the whole alphabet to help you understand what the Dutch are all about.

* 11 Cities Tour Although the Dutch love to complain about cold winters, they forget all about their grudges once the canals and lakes are frozen over. Let the ice-skating begin! [see Ice skating for more info] When the ice is thick enough (15cm), the largest speed ice-skating competition can take place. The ‘11 Cities Tour’ (Elfstedentocht) is a rare event because most winters are not cold enough. The last tours were in ‘85, ‘86 and ‘97. The tour is held in the Friesland province and the 200km course goes through 11 historic cities.

What’s Holland without cheese? Being the largest exporter, Holland offers many varieties of this yellow delicacy, such as Gouda, Edam, Maasdammer and Boerenkaas (farmer’s cheese). Make sure you take some of that gold back home!

12th century, Amsterdam became one of the most important ports in the world.

B Bicycles Some claim that there are more bicycles than people in the Netherlands. In Amsterdam, you will often see cyclists weaving nonchalantly between pedestrians. Renting a bicycle in Amsterdam might be a great idea to explore the smaller streets, but be careful if you’re not used to riding one!

Bitterballen Quite similar to the Kroket [see Kroket for more info], these little snacks are often served on special events such as birthdays, sport events or during business meetings. Of course, a beer perfectly complements this hot snack. Make sure you dip it in mustard before eating!

Clogs Ask anyone; “What’s typical Dutch?” and they often say wooden shoes. These shoes, also known as clogs, are actually no longer worn by the Dutch, but are still a popular souvenir. Originally, the wooden shoes were worn because of their protective features and were actually quite warm to wear since they were lined with hay.

If you’re searching for a hot, steaming coffee don’t be fooled; coffeeshops in Holland offer their customers something totally different. These coffeeshops will sell you (small) amounts of grass and you can smoke a joint on the premises, but only if there’s no tobacco inside, since the smoking of tobacco inside public places is banned. A small fact: it is actually illegal to sell weed, but not punishable, making it quite easy to get your stash.

D Delftware A Amsterdam Amsterdam is the capital and the largest city in the Netherlands. The city has a population of 1.4 million - quite impressive considering it began as a fishing village. In the late

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Boerenkool [see Stamppot for more info]

C Canals Amsterdam is sometimes referred as ‘Venice of the

Drop Black candy, it doesn’t sound nor look attractive, but the Dutch love it! Also known as liquorice in English, Dutch drop comes in hundreds of flavours and shapes. Most varieties will taste sweet, but some can be quite salty, so beware, it’s an acquired taste.

Dutch Treat

Coffeeshops

3 kisses In most cultures it’s common to greet a friend with a kiss (or two). The Dutch however, like to add one extra. These three kisses are actually air kisses; the lips should not touch the other person’s cheek. Oh, and to avoid akward situations: men don’t kiss eachother!

Cheese

done to prevent the country from flooding? Well the Dutch are very skilled at water management [see Water Management for more info] and dykes are one of those solutions. A dyke is a long wall or embankment which prevents water getting from one side to the other.

This is typical blue and white Dutch pottery that originated in the city of Delft. The original tinglazed pottery was made from the 16th to the 18th centuries.

Dykes A very large part of the Netherlands is actually below sea level, so what can be

Ah, the Dutch Treat; we all use it from time to time. Being known as penny-pinchers, the Dutch prefer to split the total bill at a restaurant and only pay their part. The Dutch Treat is also known as Going Dutch or the Dutch Date.

E Efteling Why go to Euro Disney when the magic is right here in Holland? The Efteling is Holland’s largest theme park, with fairytales around every corner. You can meet Little Red Riding Hood, trolls, elves and creatures you’ve never even seen before. There are also plenty of adrenaline rides, so it’s fun for the whole family. The Efteling is located in the south of Holland (Kaatsheuvel). Go to www. efteling.com for more info.

F FEBO Got a sudden craving for a crispy kroket or frikandel? [see Kroket or Frikandel for more info] Find a FEBO outlet and make sure you’ve got some coins on you. The FEBO is a fast food chain of automatiek restaurants, where you can buy your snacks from a wallmounted vending machine.

Frikandel This typical Dutch snack is shaped like a large sausage, but it’s rather different to the average sausage. It’s made from minced meat, deep-fried and


often eaten in a bun (broodje frikandel) or at least with a mixture of sauces. A frikandel speciaal is quite a popular variant; chopped onions together with mayonnaise and ketchup (or curry sauce) is placed in a frikandel that’s been cut open. A frikandel can be bought in a snack bar (fast food restaurant) such as a FEBO [see FEBO for more info] and is a typical party snack.

boterham (toast) with hagelslag.

Haring (herring)

G G (the pronunciation) Notable in the Dutch language, is the pronunciation of the letter ‘g’. Non-natives often struggle with this strange gurgling sound. In the northern and western parts of Holland, the letter ‘g’ is pronounced louder, a so-called ‘hard g’. In the other parts a ‘soft g’ is more common.

Gay marriage The Netherlands legalised gay marriage back in 2001, making it a popular destination for gay couples due to the tolerant attitude. Every first weekend in August, the popular Amsterdam Gay Pride event is held, attracting hundreds of thousands of gay and straight visitors. The most interesting part of this event is the canal parade, where a variety of themed boats sail along the canals.

Gezellig The Dutch word gezellig cannot be translated in any other language and is used in various ways. It means something like cosy, friendly or nice, but can also refer to time spent with loved ones or being very sociable. Things that can be gezellig are; hanging out with friends, a bruin café, drinking coffee with the neighbour or even a nicely decorated room in the house.

Going Dutch [see Dutch Treat for more info]

H Hagelslag Cloggies eat a lot of bread. They eat it at breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner. Hagelslag is a typical Dutch chocolate topping that is sprinkled on toast (preferably white) with a thick layer of butter. Children in particular are quite fond of

This typical Dutch scenario is often quite repellent to outsiders: a raw shiny silver fish, covered with chopped onions, is held by its tail and is dangled over to the open mouth. With head tilted back, the fish is eaten (again, raw) and often a second one will follow. Yes, the Dutch love fresh haring every once in a while. A haring in a white bun is also quite popular. If you’re brave enough to try, go out an find some Hollandse Nieuwe catch between May and July; this is the best type of herring.

Heineken If you’ve never heard of Heineken, you must have been living under a rock. This brand of beer is world famous and originated the Netherlands. In Amsterdam you can visit the Heineken Experience to get to know everything you could possibly want to know about this golden liquid.

HEMA This Dutch department store with favourable prices has become quite hip in recent years. With more than 400 stores in the Netherlands, HEMA (Hollandse Eenheidsprijzen Maatschappij Amsterdam / Dutch Standard Prices Company Amsterdam) offers everything from homeware to clothing, office supplies to delicious sausages (rookworst) [see Unox for more info about rookworst].

Hyves Ever tried to find a Dutch friend on Facebook? This can


dutch a-z be quite hard, because most of the Dutch are already quite busy maintaining their social networks on Hyves.nl. You might want to sign up there if you want to stalk that Dutch chick or dude.

I Ice skating Ice skating is a popular winter activity in Holland. Though the Dutch love to complain about cold weather, once the ice is strong enough, they will get their skates out and take to the ice. In larger cities, small skating rinks will be created to offer a safer alternative to natural ice. These small rinks are often quite gezellig [see Gezellig for more info] and you can enjoy a hot cocoa and other delicacies at the rink side. Speed skating is also a very popular sport in Holland [see 11 Cities Tour for more info].

[see Kibbeling for more info]. The word ‘lekkerbek’ can also imply a person who really appreciates food.

M Mayonnaise This emulsion of oil, vinegar, lemon juice and egg yolk is often served as a dipping sauce for fries or chips.

N Nachtwacht (Night Watch)

The most famous Dutch painting, by Rembrandt van Rijn in 1642 [see Rembrandt for more info] is actually called The Company of Frans Banning Cocq and Willem van Ruytenburch. The picture is a group portrait of a division of the civic guard and is renowned for its size (363 x 437cm). You can see the Nachtwacht in Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum.

J Jonkie This Dutch gin (also referred to as Jenever) is a strong (35%+) liquor made in Holland and Belgium. There are two types of Jenever; old (oude) and young (jonge). The difference is not in age, but in the distilling techniques.

K Kaaskop

Kibbeling Cloggies are fond of fish and often treat themselves to a little fish snack. Kibbeling consists of deep fried chunks of cod topped with spices. These nuggets are served with specific sauces and taste quite similar to a lekkerbek [see Lekkerbek for more info].

Kroket The Dutch may not be famous for their haute cuisine, but they sure know how to snack! When you’re near a snack bar or a FEBO, go grab yourself a kroket; a crispy, sausage-shaped meat roll filled with (hot!) minced meat. The taste is quite similar to bitterballen [see Bitterballen for more info] and should be served with mustard and, if preferred, in a white bun.

Lekkerbek is deep fried cod and literally means ‘tasty beak’. The taste is quite similar to kibbeling

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Nieuwjaarsduik On January 1, thousands of people take a dip in the icy sea at Scheveningen, wearing nothing but a bathing suit, to celebrate the start of the new year. Afterwards, a hot pea soup provided by Unox [see Unox for more info] is truly a well deserved treat.

O Oliebollen

Known in English as the ‘Dutch doughnut’, Oliebollen are traditional Dutch treats that are especially popular around New Year. The deep-fried dough is often covered in powdered sugar and comes in different varieties. In the holiday season, oliebollen stands pop up around the country to satisfy the winter dessert cravings.

Orange

L Lekkerbek

magazine

P Pannekoeken (Pancakes)

These Dutch pancakes are slightly different then the American ones; they’re thinner and larger in size. Also various ingredients may be added to create surprising flavours. You can eat a basic pancake with ‘stroop’ (sugar beet syrup) or powdered sugar or go for the traditional ‘spek’ (bacon) pannekoek.

Poffertjes These mini pancakes are a traditional treat and taste quite similar to pancakes, but have a firmer and spongier texture. Typically, poffertjes are served with powdered sugar and butter, but other toppings are also available.

Prostitution

(New Year’s Dive)

Kaaskop is a (not so nice) nickname for a Dutch person. It literally means ‘Cheesehead’.

When visiting Holland during the European Cup and World Cup football, or on Queen’s Day [see Queen’s Day for more info], the streets and people will be wearing their national colour with pride.

Orange is the national colour of the Netherlands. The association originated from the name of the royal family ‘Oranje-Nassau’.

Holland is a very open-minded country and legal prostitution is not hard to find. Brothels and red light districts are often touristic sights. In these red light districts, women are displayed behind windows, where you can pick your favorite and negotiate the deal. Typically, red light (or purple light for darker ladies) is switched on to show the passerby that there is sex for sale. When in Amsterdam, ‘de wallen’ area is a must-see. [see Wallen for more info]

Q Queen’s day Queen’s Day celebrates the birthday of the Dutch queen and is held on 30 April (unless that’s a Sunday, in which case it’s celebrated the day before). It’s not actually the birthday of the current Queen Beatrix, but her mother, Queen Juliana, but the tradition remains. This day is known for its ‘free market’ (vrijmarkt), where everybody is allowed to sell things on the streets. The streets and the people are coloured orange [see Orange for more info]. It’s probably one of the most gezellige [see Gezellig for more info] times in Amsterdam.

R Red Light District [see Wallen for more info]

Rookworst A typical Dutch sausage, made

with ground meat, mixed with spices, which is stuffed into a casing. While it literally means ‘smoked sausage’, it’s not truly smoked. This sausage is a typical ingredient of stamppot [see Stamppot for more info] and is often bought from HEMA [see HEMA for more info] or the supermarket. Unox is also a popular brand of rookworst [see Unox for more info].

S Sinterklaas While Christmas is widely celebrated in the Netherlands, children generally look forward to Sinterklaas more. This yearly Dutch feast is celebrated on December 5 and holy man Sinterklaas (who has a lot of similarities to Santa Claus) is the central character. The holy man and his helpers the ‘Zwarte Pieten’ [see Zwarte Piet for more info] will sneak through the chimney and leave behind jute sacks filled with presents for wellbehaved children.

Stamppot When it’s getting chilly outside, the Dutch like to eat stamppot for dinner. Stamppot is a mixture of boiled potatoes and vegetables topped with gravy and served together with meat such as rookworst [see Rookworst for more info]. Popular stamppotten are Boerenkool (farmer’s cabbage), Andijvie (endive), Zuurkool (Dutch sauerkraut) and Hutspot (potatoes mixed with onion and carrot).

T Tulips If you come to the Netherlands in the spring, you can’t miss the tulip fields in the countryside. The Dutch love their flowers and the tulip is their most prized possession. Home to the world’s largest tulip garden, Keukenhof is a nice place to see the colours and varieties of tulips.


dutch a-z

U Unox This consumer product brand is presented as something typically Dutch. Their rookworst [see rookworst for more info] is often eaten during winter times and Unox is a prominent sponsor of the 11 cities tour [see 11 Cities Tour for more info] and the nieuwjaarsduik [see Nieuwjaarsduik for more info].

V VOC

in Amsterdam. It is a network of alleyways and canalside buildings where approximately 300 windows are used by prostitutes [see Prostitution for more info]. The prostitutes sit behind a window in a room with a red light. This is a major tourist attraction in Amsterdam and the area also includes a number of sex shops, peep shows, and a sex museum.

(Dutch East India Company)

Water management

The VOC (Vereenigde OostIndische Compagnie) was a chartered company established in 1602. It was the first multinational company and the first that handed out shares. For decades this monopolistic concern dominated the global spice trade, transporting spices using large ships (you can see a replica ship at the Scheepvaartmuseum in Amsterdam). The VOC representatives used violent methods to gain respect from the native population. In the first years of the 1800s the VOC slowly fell apart.

Since large parts of the Netherlands are below sea level, the Dutch have become very inventive when it comes to keeping the water out. Their systems are utilised globally and range from dykes and dams to well-engineered automatic floodgates.

W Wallen De Wallen is the largest and most famous red light district

Windmill The Dutch are famous for their windmills and have a long tradition of using windmills for land draining, corn milling, saw milling, and more. There are currently 1200 windmills that still survive today. The largest collection of windmills are located at Kinderdijk in South Holland. The 19 historical working windmills are on

the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list and are among the most popular tourist destinations in the country.

Wooden Shoes [see Clogs for more info]

Y Yiddish Many words from the Amsterdam dialect originate from the Yiddish language. Examples are mazzel (lucky), mesjogge (crazy), nebbisj (unlucky person), achenebbisj (poor, messy) and koosjer (in order, all ok). Before WWII, Amsterdam was home to a large group of Jews whose mother tongue was Yiddish.

Z Zwarte Piet (Black Pete)

X xxx You might presume that the triple X sign represents the erotic scene in Amsterdam. Well it could. But when you ask a Dutch person what XXX means, they will probably say three kisses [see 3 Kisses for more info]. The XXX is quite similar to the American xoxo (hugs and kisses). These three letters are also to be found everywhere on the streets of Amsterdam, such as on amsterdammetjes (steel bollards). In that case the crosses are part of the city’s crest, and are actually Saint Andrew’s Crosses - not that sexy, but of historic value.

Sinterklaas’s [see Sinterklaas for more info] companions are loved by children. The funny looking characters with colourful costumes and blackened faces are subject to much debate. Foreigners are often shocked by their appearance. While it is a very old tradition, the fact that their faces are covered in black make-up and they are Sinterklaas’s helpers is unacceptable to some.


made in holland

made in holland

3dwn1up By Morgan Currie

Aldo Bakker has been exploring the possibilities of wood since 2007 – slicing, lacquering, assembling and hand finishing carefully selected pieces to create light, organic wholes. His fresh approach and mastery of woods’ sculptural properties strikes a balance between solidity and lightness. Son of Droog Design founder Gijs Bakker and jewellery designer Emmy van Leersum, Bakker studied at Li Edelkoort Design Academy Eindhoven before the Rietveld Academy in Amsterdam, where, according to his website, he developed ‘the strong conviction that physical objects possess and evoke emotions in the user; the experience and “alienation” that objects can awaken in the observer, just as music, film and art can do’. This year, the Particles Gallery presented Bakker’s handcrafted tripod chair called ‘3dwn1up’ at the Object Rotterdam design fair, a selective event that emphasises craftsmanship paired with unique concept design. As part of his new project ‘In Collaboration With Wood’, Bakker’s stool fuses both aspects in a pristine, sensual object of sturdiness and comfort. Based on a 2010 lacquered wood version, the untreated chair also exemplifies Bakker’s play with perspective, encouraging a slow exploration of his work – depending on the viewpoint, the objects make radical changes in appearance. Here, from a certain view, the stool’s ‘fourth leg’ seems to have flipped upwards, rotating into the back support.

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museum check

Photos courtesy of Tropenmuseum

M EU S U M CK CHE

Tropenmuseum The Tropenmuseum, or Tropics Museum, is devoted to cultures around the equator, and to places where no one has to fuss with winter coats. By Allison Guy The museum opened its doors in 1871 in Haarlem, and moved to its landmark Amsterdam location in 1926. Originally focused on Dutch colonies, the Tropenmuseum has expanded its scope to the whole of the global tropics, and modernised its approach as well. Welcome to the global tribe Exploring cultures both traditional and pop, the museum puts to bed any notions of the sleepy, outdated ‘ethnographic museum’. Festooned with bright textiles and a giant pink fish-shaped coffin, the colourful space has the feel of a tropicsthemed amusement park. Eight permanent exhibition spaces occupy three floors and cover just about every continent in the world. Highlights

include a riotous Filipino jeepney and a thoughtful history of the Dutch in Indonesia, from the spice trade to independence. On the ground floor, the temporary exhibition RED (until 8 May) is a cheerful mish-mash of lipstick, face paint and communist posters, less devoted to cultural analysis than to eye candy. All cultures, for all ages For every patch of wall text, there’s a button to push, a song to record… even a drawer of spices to sniff. The Tropenmuseum’s emphasis on interactivity does an admirable job of engaging offspring as well as adults. Wall text, while informative, is written simply and is accessible to most kids of reading age.

The museum is often overlooked by visitors keen on Amsterdam’s iconic sights

Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 +31 (0)20 5688548 www.tropenmuseum.nl

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museum check Though there is the Tropenmuseum Junior, Englishspeaking children (and at least one English-speaking reviewer) may be crushed to learn that the activities there are in Dutch only. Even if you won’t have the chance to practise Chinese calligraphy, the dual-language Travelling Tales is geared towards a young audience as well. With a pit filled with stuffed animals from epic stories and a screen to practise shadow-puppetry, this exhibit should keep the playground set satisfied.

The Verdict: Thijs Termorst (25) - Netherlands I always came here when I was young, I think that was 15 years ago. It used to be sort of a magic place for me then, with the smells and the spices. I still like it, but in a different way. Now I look at it more scientifically, and what it means to my field of research. My favourite part was seeing the film that shows the cameraman walking though a Filipino village – it looked like a medieval city! I’d recommend it to my friends or to people with children. I got in for free, but the price seems okay for students.

Sjoerd Terraneo (17) - Netherlands

Around the world in a day Often overlooked by visitors keen on Amsterdam’s iconic sights, the Tropenmuseum is actually one of the biggest museums in the city. It’s best to either pick one or two areas you’re interested in, or lace up your shoes for the museum shuffle and take advantage of the fact that a ticket can cover a full day of entertainment.

I’ve been here before as a child. Today it was pretty cool, actually. The masks they have everywhere look really cool and kind of imposing. Some of the exhibits were hard to place, and the guide didn’t tell me too much. I don’t think children would really understand most of it, but I’d recommend it to students. The admission price seemed sort of high.

Caroline and Patricia - Netherlands

Exhibition spaces change swiftly from culture to culture. Unless you’re paying close attention, it can be easy to miss out on the broader context of the displays. While the collection includes stunning artwork, the overstimulation can make focusing tough: this isn’t the place to reflect on the mysteries of the human condition. Luckily, the museum’s crowd of artefacts isn’t matched by crowds of the human variety. On weekends the galleries are quiet, and on weekdays you’ll feel as though you have a multiculti aircraft hangar to yourself. For global citizens and history buffs, it offers a fun, respectful introduction to equatorial cultures. For everyone else, it has yodelling lessons. g

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It’s a nice mix of an old building and new techniques, a very modern presentation of universal themes. We liked the exhibition RED, and the section about Indonesia with the figures telling stories. If you want to go on a trip you can come here to prepare yourself. It’s a good place to check up on the local gods and history. We would recommend it to families and grandparents with grandchildren, and to anyone who thinks global and with an open mind. Value for money: 4.5/5 Waiting time in line: Minimal Entrance: Adults €9. €5 for children between 6 and 17, for student-card holders and for Euro <26 card. €7.50 for adults 65 and over. Free for children 5 and under, and for Iamsterdam Card, Holland Pass and Museum Card holders. Comments: This brightly coloured whirlwind of a museum is housed in a palatial red-brick building. Its location just outside of the centre makes it less popular with tourists, although it is easily reached from Artis Zoo or the Resistance Museum. Interactive exhibits range from tribal groups in the Amazon to modern city-dwellers, throwing in a healthy dose of history as well. Although not a ‘children’s museum’, kids will likely find as many reasons to be entertained

as their parents. The shop offers an extensive selection of jewellery and art, from ethnic doo-dads to expensive collectibles. The two restaurants offer dishes from several countries. Wheelchair-friendly: All floors accessible via lift. Wheelchair available upon request. English-friendly: All information in the main museum is in both Dutch and English, including the free audio tour. Children’s activities are only conducted in Dutch. Opening hours: Open daily from 10am-5pm. Open from 10am-3pm on 24 and 31 December. Closed on 1 January, 30 April, 5 May and 25 December. Soeterijn Café-Restaurant is open from 12pm10pm, and Ekeko Restaurant is open from 10am-5pm.


column

Sex and de stad

Confessions of a Prostitute What’s it like to be a working girl? Lauren, an Amsterdam professional, reveals her deepest secrets.

This issue: a Queen’s Day gathering. - By Lauren Wissot -

April means Queen’s Day – a chance to honour Holland’s trade culture, to celebrate the current queen’s fake birthday and to get so mind-bendingly drunk you forget that you’re dressed like a colour-blind clown. Not the sexiest thing, but every April my long-time client (both an exhibitionist and the owner of a top-notch vineyard in France) – I’ll call him Willem-Alexander – and I trade services. Orange bowtie g He gets his naked bartender fantasy staged for free while I get to host an exclusive wine-tasting party for all my girlfriends and co-whores. And no matter what happens at our Queen’s Day bashes, they always begin and end the same way.

‘With a tiara placed on my head I bark orders from my throne-seat’ I’m the first to arrive at the discreet hotel suite that Willem-Alexander has reserved and has already filled with bottles of red and white wine and bouquets of orange roses. He greets me at the door wearing only an orange bowtie with white polka dots and a matching apron, which

I promptly rip from his waist before I wander through the room to inspect every inch. By 10pm the ladies of the night that I’ve summoned begin to drift in. With a tiara placed firmly on my head I bark orders from my throne-seat as Willem-Alexander rushes from aloof blondes to giggly redheads to teasing brunettes, refilling glasses and making flustered chitchat like a kid let loose in Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory. Shed stilettos g Most of the guests are Beatrix Bash vets, though each year I try to invite a few newbies just to hit Willem-Alexander’s sweet spot. Like all exhibitionists Willem-Alexander gets off on the response to his nudity, so if a girl seems a tad shocked or the least bit uncomfortable all the better. By sunrise the next morning the suite is filled with shed stilettos and spilt Chardonnay. I tell Willem-Alexander to get dressed and then send him out for a takeaway breakfast of coffee, orange juice and pancakes, which he then serves to half a dozen or so hungover guests. By noon only Willem-Alexander and I remain. Adjusting my tiara I remind him to clean up the mess before he leaves, toss him his torn apron and then I’m on my regal way.

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captured

Vrijbuiters ‘Conferentie Oost’

If there’s a party going on, special reporter Michiel Döbelman is there. Make sure you don’t miss out next time!

CAPTURED By Michiel Döbelman/Savage Productions

5 Days Off 5 Days Off is a festival of electronic music and audio-visual art, photography and film. The festival is centred around Leidseplein, including big clubs such as Melkweg and Paradiso. 5 Days Off’s edgy and non-commercial parties at different locations make it one of Amsterdam’s most popular festivals. Various locations around Leidseplein yearly event

2-5 march >

Pop Up CLuB The Pop Up CLuB is a mobile party concept that travels from one unique location to another. Party people are notified through Facebook but don’t know what the venue will be like until the night. But one thing they do know is that they will attend a oneof-a-kind party! Reguliersdwarsstraat 17 Stay tuned through Facebook!

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On 11 March Vrijbuiters organised their biggest party so far, in a new location called muzyQ. With Krause Duo and dOP. muzyQ

11 march > Photos by: Kim Langhout


SAHH The second Salon d’Amsterdam de la Haute Horlogerie, organised by Gassan Diamonds and Amsterdam Diamond Centre, was an extension on the prestige event in Geneva. The fair was quite a success, with extravagant watches and jewellery by top brands such as Audemars Piguet, Baume et Mercier, Cartier, IWC and Piaget on display. Gassan Diamonds yearly event

4-6 march >

Framebusters

Framebusters is the Saturday night club night at Escape Club in Amsterdam, one of the most popular and best known clubs in the city. Resident DJ Raymundo invites lots of famous national and international DJs for a guaranteed fantastic clubbing experience. club escape Every Saturday

< 12 march Photos by: Dennis Veldman

Michiel DĂśbelman has deep roots in the Amsterdam nightlife scene. His company Savage Productions has organised events for Amsterdam Fashion Week, Armani, BlackBerry and others. www.savage-productions.nl

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upcoming

By Blair Larkin

/APRILGIGS FRIDAY 1

Queen’s day The streets of Amsterdam will be filled with madness for the biggest celebration of the year at the end of this month. Queen’s Day sees hundreds of thousands of visitors flock to Amsterdam for an open-air party like no other. The streets, canals, squares, parks, bars and everywhere in When: 30 April between will be packed with orangeWhere: Amsterdam clad partygoers drinking and dancing to Admission: Free live music and DJs. This is a party not to be missed.

CunninLynguists, Melkweg Critically acclaimed hip-hop trio come to town. 21:00, €16 + membership The Twilight Singers, Paradiso American indie rock band The Twilight Singers are touring on the back of their latest album Dynamite Steps which was released in February this year. 19:30, €20 + membership In-Flight Safety, Paradiso Canadian indie rock band In-Flight Safety come to Amsterdam to celebrate the European release of their 2009 album We Are an Empire, My Dear. 20:00, €8.50 + membership Horse Feathers, Paradiso Melodic folk music from this four-piece American band. 22:00, €8 + membership Claron McFadden with Aka Moon, Bimhuis 20:30, €18 Fiesta Cubana, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 22:00, €5

Saturday 2 Yael Naim, Paradiso French-Israeli singer/songwriter who is best known for her 2008 hit single New Soul. 19:30, €17.50 + membership A.J. Roach, Paradiso Folk songs from singer/songwriter A.J. Roach and band. 20:00, €10 + membership Jonathan Jeremiah, Paradiso 22:00, €12 + membership Chase & Status, Melkweg Drum ‘n’ bass heavyweights Chase & Status drop by. 22:00, €16 + membership Nik Bartsch’s Ronin, Bimhuis Swiss pianist Nik Bartsch describes his band Ronin’s music as ‘zen-funk’. Should be an interesting evening. 22:00, €18 Batwa du Rwanda, Tropentheater Traditional Batwa pygmy music from Rwanda. 20:30, €19

Mansum Ibrahimov, Tropentheater 15:00, €23

Monday 4 Cee Lo Green, Melkweg Eccentric rapper/soul singer Cee Lo Green comes to town for his second concert on Dutch soil. 21:00, €26 + membership OOR Magazine 40 Year Anniversary, Paradiso Concert featuring The Naked and Famous, Morning Parade, Frankie & The Heartstrings, Selah Sue and more. 19:00, €12.50 + membership

Tuesday 5 The Low Anthem, Paradiso Indie folk band touring their latest album Smart Flesh. Support from The Head & The Heart. 19:30, €16 + membership Marike Jager, Paradiso Melancholic pop from the Dutch singer/ songwriter who is celebrating the release of her new album Here Comes The Night. 20:00, €12.50 + membership The New Wine, Paradiso Norweigan electro-pop band. 22:00, €8 + membership Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:30, €4

Wednesday 6 John Grant, Paradiso Former frontman of The Czars comes to Amsterdam for a solo show. Support from Alessi’s Ark. 19:00, €15 + membership Dirty Dozen Brass Band, Paradiso New Orleans jazz, funk and bebop from the Dirty Dozen Brass Band who formed more than 30 years ago. 22:00, €18 + membership Al Foster Quartet, Bimhuis Accomplished jazz drummer Al Foster has worked with the likes of the legendary Miles Davis. He comes to town with his quartet. 20:30, €18

Sunday 3

Photo: Imagine Film Festival

Imagine film festival Imagine, formerly known as the Amsterdam Fantastic Film Festival, gives film fans the chance to catch the best horror, fantasy, sci-fi and anime films from around the world. Approximately 45 long and 25 short films will be screened throughout the 11-day festival, which When: 13-23 April Where: Kriterion will also feature talks from special Admission: Varies guests in the industry and themed www.imaginefilmfestival.nl programmes covering specific aspects of film in detail.

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Norman Palm, Paradiso An audiovisual live show from singer/ songwriter Norman Palm. 19:00, €7.50 + membership Merlijn Twaalfhoven, Paradiso Dutch composer Merlijn Twaalfhoven takes to the stage for his new concert In The Air We Breathe. 21:00, €17.50 + membership Patrick Wolf, Melkweg English singer/songwriter who is known for combining electronic sampling with classical instruments. 20:30, €15 + membership The Wishing Band, Bitterzoet Violin-driven folk rock from this Australian band. 20:00, €4 Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 14:30, Free Jazz Portraits, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:00, €5

Thursday 7 James Blake, Melkweg Experimental electronic musician James Blake comes to Amsterdam on the back of releasing his self-titled debut album. 21:00, €19 + membership Jungle By Night, Melkweg The Amsterdam nine-piece band who play a mixture of afrobeat and Ethiopian jazz. 21:00, €10 + membership Frank McComb, Paradiso Keyboardist and soul singer who is often compared to the likes of Stevie Wonder and Donny Hathaway. 20:30, €19 + membership Vijay Iyer, Prasanna & Nitin Mitta, Bimhuis This trio plays a mix of jazz, raga and rock with Indian influences. 20:30, €16 Tales of Tala, Tropentheater A meeting of Indian, Arabic and European music. 17:00, €17


upcoming

Alexi Murdoch, Bitterzoet 20:00, €11 Trio Lochs, Balthaus & Herskedal, De Badcuyp, (Music Café) 21:30, €10

Friday 8 Adele, Paradiso Grammy award winning singer/songwriter Adele comes to Amsterdam shortly after releasing her second album 21. 20:30, €39 + membership Bilal, Paradiso Expect a mixture of soul, jazz, and blues from the talented singer and member of the musical collective known as Soulquarians. 22:30, €20 + membership Most Wanted, Melkweg Check out Amsterdam’s up and coming talent on display at this hip-hop and R&B talent show. 21:00, €10 Sao Paulo Underground & Chicago Underground Duo, Bimhuis An evening of psychedelic jazz. 20:30, €16 Shonosuke Okura, Tropentheater Otsuzumi drum master from Japan. 20:30, €23

Saturday 9 Lykke Li, Paradiso Swedish indie rock/electro pop singer Lykke Li takes to the stage shortly after releasing her second album Wounded Rhymes. 20:30, €20 + membership Monsieur Dubois, Paradiso Monsieur Dubois plays a mix of jungle beats, funk, soul jazz and Afro grooves or what he calls ‘danceable hard jazz’. 20:30, €12 + membership Sick Puppies, Melkweg Australian rock band who have just released an all-acoustic album titled Polar Opposite. 20:30, €10 + membership Orquesta Ceiba, Tropentheater Orquesta Ceiba plays intense salsa dura, the New York variant of salsa. 20:30, €23

Sunday 10 VenIce, Melkweg Venice have decided to stop by Amsterdam for a special concert as they are currently touring Europe with Pink Floyd’s Roger Waters for his The Wall Live tour. 20:15, €29 + membership Blackfield, Paradiso Alternative rock band founded by Porcupine Tree lead singer Steven Wilson and Israeli rock singer Aviv Geffen. 20:30, €25 + membership Antwerp Gypsy-ska Orchestra, Paradiso Antwerp Gypsy-ska Orchestra play authentic Roma Gypsy music combined with ska rhythm and are renowned for their live shows. 21:30, €10 + membership Mathilde Santing, Bimhuis Dutch diva Mathilde Santing is joined on stage by Jazzmania Big Band to pay tribute to Frank Sinatra. 14:00, €8 Onra, Sugar Factory 19:30, €10

Christope Chaplet & Mac Havet, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 16:00, €8

Monday 11 Damian Marley & Nas, Paradiso After collaborating together a couple of times in the past few years Damian Marley and Nas got together to release a whole album last year. Guaranteed to be a good night for both lovers of reggae and hip-hop. 20:30, €42.50 + membership Portugal. The Man, Paradiso American experimental rock group. 22:00, €12 + membership Konrad Koselleck Big Band, Bimhuis A theatrical concert featuring singer Ellen ten Damme and actor Hans Dagelet on trumpet. 20:30, €14

Tuesday 12 Damian Marley & Nas, Paradiso The second concert in two days from the duo. 20:30, €42.50 + membership The BellRays, Paradiso An interesting combination of garage rock and soul singing from the American band. 22:00, €12.50 + membership Venish, Melkweg Venice band leader Michael Lennon performs with other members of the Lennon family under the name Venish. 20:00, €15 + membership Dean Brown Trio, Melkweg Jazz/fusion guitarist Dean Brown is joined on stage by drummer Dennis Chambers and keyboardist Bobby Sparks. 20:30, €20 + membership Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:30, €4

Wednesday 13 Chris de Burgh, Heineken Music Hall British/Irish singer best known for his 1986 song Lady in Red. 20:00, €39-€59 Laura Jansen, Paradiso A mix of dark alternative pop songs from the Dutch-American singer/songwriter. Support from Holly Conlan. 19:30, €17.50 + membership David Wax Museum, Paradiso A fusion of traditional Mexican and American folk music. 22:00, €7.50 + membership Winne & Zo Moeilijk, Sugar Factory A night of Dutch hip-hop. 19:00, €11 Michiel Braam’s Hybrid 10tet, Bimhuis 20:30, €16 Daniel von Piekartz, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:30, €6 Rumbistico, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 22:00, €6

Thursday 14 De Kift, Paradiso Dutch punk band with an extensive brass section. 20:30, €18 + membership Smith Westerns, Paradiso American indie pop band Smith Westerns

come to Amsterdam shortly after releasing their second album Dye It Blonde. 22:00, €10 + membership David Wax Museum, Paradiso A fusion of traditional Mexican and American folk music. 22:00, €7.50 + membership Eli ‘Paperboy’ Reed & The True Loves, Melkweg Soul music reminiscent of the Motown era from the American singer and his band. 20:30, €16 + membership Earth, Sugar Factory American band recognised as pioneering the genre of drone doom. 20:00, €14 + membership Wolfert Brederode Quartet, Bimhuis 20:30, €16 Margriet Sjoerdsma & Dimitar Bodurov, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:30, €6 Baer Traa Quartet & The Jig, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:30, €10

Friday 15 Trey Songz, Heineken Music Hall Popular American singer-songwriter, rapper, record producer and actor Trey Songz stops by Amsterdam for a concert with his live band. 19:00, €39.50 Kimmie Rhodes, Paradiso American country singer who has had a prolific career, releasing 12 albums. 20:00, €10 + membership Alborosie, Paradiso Italian born reggae musician and multi-instrumentalist. 20:30, €22.50 + membership Death Letters, Paradiso Dutch alternative rock duo known for their dynamic live performances. 22:00, €9 + membership Ziggi Recado, Melkweg Popular Dutch reggae artist. 21:00, €13 + membership Flobots, Sugar Factory A catchy mix of alternative rock and rap. 20:00, €13 + membership Septeto Santiaguero, Bimhuis A night of Cuban music. 20:30, €20

Saturday 16 The Dears, Melkweg Critically acclaimed Canadian indie rock band who have just released their fifth studio album Degeneration Street. 20:30, €14 + membership GZA, Melkweg The legendary Wu-Tang member stops by Amsterdam to perform songs from his classic debut Liquid Swords. 21:00, €22 + membership Jacqueline Govaert, Paradiso Dutch singer/songwriter and former lead singer of band Krezip. 20:30, €17.50 + membership Tango de Astillero, Tropentheater A night of powerful, raw, industrial tango music from Argentina. 20:30, €23

Sunday 17 Duman, Paradiso Turkish band Duman combines elements of traditional Turkish folk music with modern rock and grunge. 20:30, €20 + membership Gianmaria Testa, Melkweg Italian singer/songwriter Gianmaria Testa’s music is richly melodic and incorporates aspects of tanga, bossa nova habanera and jazz. 20:30, €30 + membership Michael Formanek Quartet, Bimhuis 20:30, €18 Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 14:30, Free Orquesta Bembe, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 20:00, €7

Monday 18 Rökkurró, Paradiso Dreamy experimental folk music from the Icelandic band. 20:00, €8 + membership Congos, Abyssinians & Band, Paradiso A night of Jamaican roots reggae. 20:30, €8.50 + membership Noah and the Whale, Melkweg English indie folk band whose latest album Last Night on Earth has been getting great reviews in their homeland. 20:30, €14 + membership

Photo: Paradiso

bilal Classically trained singer Bilal stormed onto the neo-soul scene in 2001 with his debut album 1st Born Second. Since then he has collaborated with a host of prominent hip-hop, R&B and soul artists. With his latest album Airtight’s Revenge, Bilal took a different direction, creating an experimental mix of jazz, hip-hop, blues and soul. This month he gives Amsterdam locals a chance to see his mesmerising live show with a performance at Paradiso. When: 8 April Where: Paradiso Admission: €20 www.paradiso.nl

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Photo: Peter Griffin

/APRILGIGS Timber Timbre, Bitterzoet 21:00, €12

Tuesday 19

Photo: AutoRAI

autorai Amsterdam is home to one of Europe’s top automotive events this month. AutoRAI will showcase the latest innovations in the automotive industry and will feature exhibitions from all the major car manufacturers eager to present their latest concept cars. Various special When: 13-23 April events will take place throughout Where: RAI Elicium the programme including Go Motor! Admission: Varies - an event dedicated to motorcycles, www.autorai.nl scooters and mopeds.

R. Kelly, Heineken Music Hall The Grammy award winning R&B star comes to Amsterdam for a one-off show. 20:00, €45 The Human League, Paradiso Influential synth pop band The Human League stop by Amsterdam to celebrate the release of their latest album Credo. 20:30, €20 + membership Baths, Paradiso American producer and singer Will Wiesenfeld aka Baths’ music is a fusion of synth pop and experimental hip-hop layered with dreamy vocals. 22:15, €9 + membership Katzenjamer, Melkweg Norweigan band who mix a variety of genres including folk, rock, country and Balkan music. They are known for their live shows where all of the members switch between an interesting array of instruments. 20:30, €20 + membership Murs, Sugar Factory Very talented hip-hop MC best known for his collaborations with producer 9th Wonder. 20:00, €12 Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:30, €4 Symphonie des Trottoirs, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:00, €5

Wednesday 20

Photo: Paradiso

Damian Marley & Nas Reggae artist Damian Marley and legendary hip-hop MC Nas first collaborated on Marley’s 2005 album Welcome to Jamrock on the song Road to Zion. The two obviously gelled as the track lead to them making a whole album together that was released last year. The result is Distant Relatives, an equal parts hiphop and reggae album that also draws When: 11 & 12 April influences from African music. On Where: Paradiso stage, the chemistry between the two Admission: €42.50 is evident, making for an energetic and www.paradiso.nl captivating performance.

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Alpha Blondy & The Solar System, Paradiso Politically conscious reggae singer from the Ivory Coast who puts an African twist on reggae. He is joined by his long-time collaborating band The Solar System. 19:30, €30 + membership Chapel Club, Paradiso UK post-punk band Chapel Club are known for their unique sound and their intense and stunning live performances. 20:00, €11 + membership Does It Offend You, Yeah?, Melkweg The British electronic rock band are touring with the anticipation of a new album later in the year. 19:45, €12 + membership Hooverphonic, Melkweg When Belgian band Hooverphonic formed in 1995 they were considered a trip-hop group. Over the years however their sound has evolved and now incorporates aspects of electronica, electropop and rock. 20:30, €17.50 + membership Rodrigo Leao & Cinema Ensemble, Melkweg The well-known Portuguese composer comes to Amsterdam for the first concert in 20 years. He is joined by the Cinema

Ensemble. 20:30, €35 + membership Han Bennink Trio, Bimhuis Holland’s most adventurous drummer Han Bennink is accompanied by Joachim Badnhorst on reeds and Simon Toldam on piano. 20:30, €16 Hernan Ruiz, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:30, €6

Thursday 21 Paradiso’s Only Night of the Saxophones, Paradiso Jazz, pop, classic and folk in a night dedicated to saxophones. 20:30, €20 +membership Whitechapel, The Acacia Strain & Impending Doom, Melkweg Expect a hard show from the three American deathcore bands. 20:00, €13 + membership Edan & Paten Locke, Bitterzoet The two experimental hip-hop producer/ MCs take to the stage together. 21:00, €12 National Youth Jazz Orchestra, Bimhuis 20:30, €10 Marzio Scholten Group, De Badcuyp 21:30, €10

Friday 22 De Staat, Melkweg Dutch garage rock band known for their original sound and epic guitar solos. 20:30, €15 + membership The Souldiers, Paradiso Amsterdam soul-pop band celebrate the release of their debut album with a concert in their hometown. 21:30, €8.50 + membership Benga, Melkweg A night of dubstep with one of the founding fathers of the genre, Benga. He is joined by Addison Groove and a host of other artists. 23:00, €14 + membership Tineke Postma Quartet, Bimhuis Fresh contemporary jazz from the alto saxophone player and her quartet. 20:30, €16

Saturday 23 Millencolin, Melkweg Swedish punk rock band that formed in the early nineties. 20:00, €14 + membership Letz Zep, Melkweg Led Zeppelin cover band Letz Zep have received rave reviews around the world for their concerts. Their repertoire covers the entire recording career of the legendary band. 21:00, €18 + membership Tarkan, Heineken Music Hall Expect to see an entertaining show from one of Turkey’s biggest pop stars. 20:30, €49 Friska Viljor, Paradiso Swedish indie rock band. 20:00, €12 + membership


Diggy Dex, Paradiso Dutch rapper who released his third album late last year. 22:30, €10 + membership Simin Tander Quartet, Bimhuis 20:30, €15 Gilzene & The Blue Light Mendo Band, Tropentheater 20:30, €23

Sunday 24 Staff Benda Bilili, Melkweg An amazing group of street musicians from the Democratic Republic of the Congo who play rumba with elements of rhythm & blues and reggae. The concert will be preceded by a critically acclaimed documentary on the group. 19:15, €25 + membership Diplo, Melkweg 22:30, €17 + membership Michael Moore Fragile Quartet, Bimhuis 20:30, €18

Monday 25 The Jim Jones Review, Paradiso Loud and soul-drenched garage rock from the English band. 20:00, €10 + membership Asobi Seksu, Paradiso American dream pop band who have an effects-heavy sound. 21:30, €10 + membership Kocani Orkestar, Bimhuis This funky Macedonian brass band plays gypsy melodies and Turkish rhythms with a Latin flavour. 20:30, €18

Tuesday 26 Amp Fiddler, Bitterzoet Expect a mix of funk, soul and electronic music from the talented keyboardist and singer who has worked with everyone from George Clinton and Prince to J Dilla. 20:30, €18 Thursday, Melkweg The American indie rock band are touring to promote their new album No Devolución. 20:30, €14 + membership Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:30, €4

Wednesday 27 Raphael Saadiq, Paradiso From his early work as a member of R&B group Tony! Toni! Toné! to his classic Motown sounding 2008 release The Way I See It to his more recent vintage rock flavoured sound, Raphael Saadiq has shown he’s a truly diverse and talented musician. 20:30, €27.50 + membership Golden Earring, Heineken Music Hall Dutch rock band who achieved international success in the seventies and eighties. 20:30, €30 The Wombats English indie rock band The Wombats are set to release their second album This

Modern Glitch this month. 20:00, €13.50 + membership Chicago Tentet, Bimhuis Chicago Tentet celebrate the 70th birthday

of saxophone player and member Peter Brotzmann. 20:30, €23

Thursday 28 Kraak & Smaak, Melkweg Dutch trio Kraak & Smaak have rocked dance floors all around the world with their unique brand of electronic funk. 21:00, €15 + membership Jim White, Paradiso Southern American singer songwriter Jim White plays alternative country with a slight experimental twist. 22:00, €15 + membership Ron Sexsmith, People’s Place Canadian folky singer/songwriter with a gift for melody. 20:30, €15 Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw & Jan van Duikeren, Bimhuis 20:30, €20 Trio Beatriz Aguiar, Badcuyp 20:30, €6 Daisy Correia, Tropentheater 20:30, €17

Friday 29 Gentleman & The Evolution, Paradiso German born Gentleman has become one of the biggest reggae acts in Europe. He’ll be playing with his band The Evolution. 20:00, €28.50 + membership Orchestre Poly Rythmo de Cotonou, Toko MC Theater Labeled as West Africa’s best kept secret, Orchestre Poly Rythmo de Cotonou play an African style of funk and soul. 21:00, €22 Mari Kvien Brunvoll and Schneeweiss & Rosenrot 20:30, €14 Desert Slide, Tropentheater 20:30, €23

saturday 30 Queen’s day Radio 538, Museumplein One of the biggest free live music events of theyear, organised by this popular radio station. A packed line-up of famous Dutch artists will get the crowd moving. Check radio538.nl for the line-up. 12:00-21:00, Free Slam!FM, Rembrandtplein Rembrandtplein will be packed with a dancing crowd, because radio station Slam!FM has bands like De Jeugd van Tegenwoordig and The Partysquad lined up. 12:00-20:00, Free Apenkooi, Marie Heinekenplein For the fifth time, Apenkooi will blast the best electro, house, techhouse, minimal and techno music through the pumping speakers. 12:00-20:00, Free Loveland, Wertheimpark (Sportpark Parkschouwburg) Get ready for DJs Sébastien Léger, Ramon Tapia, Secret Cinema, Michel de Hey, Remy, Egbert Marnix, Juan Sanchez and Ille Bitch.12:00-20:00, Free and much more! Happy Queen’s day!


column

Framed!

BY THOMAS SCHLIJPER

Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat, 4 March, 18:41 On my way to a restaurant I noticed a police officer talking to a man and his stuffed animal. An iconic sight in a country as emancipated as the Netherlands! Or...just a father holding his daughter’s toy while she plays on the pavement across the street.

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Every day Thomas Schlijper takes a picture. Check out his blog at www. schlijper.nl and see what the beating heart of Amsterdam looks like. Here’s a sneak preview!




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