â‚Ź4.95
Yes, I’m free!
beyond windmills, wooden shoes and weed
m a g a z i n e
10
best outdoor markets
claustrophobic?
Tiniest canal house
highlighted
the Jordaan
Joshua Foer: moonwalking with einstein
Unlocking the city Street art!
Review La Oliva
And: Getting Around, Pimp My Bike, Street style, Confessions, Fashion, Made in Holland, Dutch A-Z, Upcoming and more...
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24
Where past and present collide
14 17 21 72 32 38 50
75
37 63 68 74 71 42 75 56 64 7 8 11
32
featured jordaan festival
19 54 76 80
interview
Meet the Dutch: Shedding the elitist image of polo Unlocking the city: Street art style! street style: Do as the Parisians, hobos and bohemians do joshua foer: Moonwalking with Einstein
reportage
Knock Knock: Enter the city’s smallest canal house! pimp my bike: ‘I want Southern California on my bike’ getting around: Volendam & Marken (in search of authenticity)
reviewed
amsterdam eats: Spanish restaurant La Oliva Magnified: Jay’s Juices wet your whistle: Wynand Fockink
Column
Sex and de Stad: A brush with romance Framed: By Thomas Schlijper
Fashion
Burn baby, burn
ART & Design
Made in holland: Hanging landscapes Expo: Willem Popelier’s voyeurism
the guide Dutch A-Z
the regular
letter from the editor get social! heads-up: News from the city
more...
(not so very) dutch treat: Rijsttafel The Ten: Best outdoor markets captured: What you missed last month upcoming: Events that mustn’t be missed
63 5
letter
With 50,000 copies distributed each month, Amsterdam Magazine is the largest free English-language magazine in the Netherlands. Amsterdam Magazine is distributed at hundreds of locations in Amsterdam including many hotels, popular tourist attractions, restaurants, bars and shops. For those on their way home or just passing through Amsterdam with a connecting flight, we are freely available at all four Schiphol airport lounges. Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly by: Amsterdam Magazine BV Herengracht 423 - sous 1017 BR Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 (0)20 8461690 info@amsterdam-magazine.com www.amsterdam-magazine.com twitter: amsterdammag facebook: amsterdammagazine
Amsterdam Magazine 1 year!
Letter from the Editor
Picturing it Do you sometimes have trouble
Publishers: Linda Korver Wouter Wijtenburg Cees van der Steenstraten
remembering your age? I do.
Editor in Chief: Mathilde Hoekstra mathilde@amsterdam-magazine.com
of the book Moonwalking with
Art Director: Linda Korver linda@amsterdam-magazine.com Deputy Editor: Karen Loughrey karen@amsterdam-magazine.com
According to Joshua Foer, author
Einstein, this is not unusual. In fact, it happens to most of us. Nevertheless there’s a trick that
Sales and Account Executive: Kris Soehawan kris@amsterdam-magazine.com
will help you keep your memory
Content Producer: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com
sharp: picture it. Curiously I close
Social Media: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com Fashion Director: Tommy Hagen fashion@amsterdam-magazine.com Interns: Tim Hilhorst tim@amsterdam-magazine.com We’re open to any kind of internships! Email your request to linda@amsterdam-magazine.com Contributors Morgan Currie, Tomas Croon, Caroline Goralczyk, Phuon-Ank Do, Equiline van Dooren, Allison Guy, Claire van de Graaf, Brandon Hartley, Tommy Hagen, Anita Jolles, Witman Kleipool, Blair Larkin, Mike Peek, House of Orange, Erika Szuc, Thomas Schlijper, Arun Sood, Marieke Verhoeven, Maurice Vermaas, Veroniel, Lauren Wissot Special thanks to De Bezige Bij, Foam, Joshua Foer, Fleur Geurtsen, Erica van ‘t Leven, Maria Michailidou, Rachel Norkin, Paparazzi, Precious, Staatsbosbeheer, Martijn van Scherpenzeel, Teun van Wely, Alexander Willem Advertise with us! To find out on how you can get your message across to 100,000 international tourists each month, reach us by email at: sales@amsterdam-magazine.com or call our office on: +31 (0)20 8461690. Want to become a distributor? Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly (50,000 free copies). To discuss becoming one of our exclusive distribution locations, please contact us at info@ amsterdam-magazine.com.
my eyes and wait until something comes up. Yes, there it is: an image of Dante who at the age of 33 wanders through a forest. I’m 33 so the good news is that the gimmick worked! The bad news is that Dante is saying he’s halfway through his life. Afraid of more unwanted associations, I dive into my other brain, the one with the silver screen. Here I encounter pictures of our crew fighting deadlines and drinking wine. If this is what the first year of
Amsterdam Magazine looks like, I’d like to propose a toast to the 32 years ahead. And Dante, if you
Distributed for free in the Netherlands
fancy a job in the afterlife, here’s
Recycle this magazine by passing it on!
where you can reach me!
Printed on
--------------------------------------------------------© Amsterdam Magazine B.V. 2011
Mathilde Hoekstra, Editor in Chief
Amsterdam Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Amsterdam Magazine or its publishers. Amsterdam Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content. ---------------------------------------------------------
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social media
get social!
& win!
When we’re not busy making funky fresh magazines, we like to get social with our readers online. Besides chatting, gossiping, debating and flirting, we also like to give away prizes. Join our Facebook or Twitter page to get hold of any of these great giveaways!
Fancy a night on the town? Framebusters
Escape, Amsterdam 24 September 2011 Line up: Raymundo, Marcello, Costar on Sax and more * A table at La Brochette where you and three friends will enjoy four courses (wine and an after dinner cocktail included) * A VIP table + bottle of your choice * A selection of dance CDs * New Muchachomalo boxers (you might need them)
Madhouse
Panama, Amsterdam 1 October 2011 Line up: DJ Jean and friends * A ride in a limo for you and three friends * Dinner for four * A VIP table (and: a bottle of bubbles included) * A cocktail kit to make your own party back home (Finest Call) * 2 extra tickets of your choice (Betribes free ticket page)
How to win? Find out on Facebook and Twitter!
twitter.com
/amsterdammag facebook.com
/amsterdam-magazine foursquare.com
/amsterdammag Marcijana: @amsterdammag FOGGY lovely Adam Tarianam: @amsterdammag These are the kinds of days we’re reminded why Amsterdam is the greatest city on earth! Robert Checkoway: Thanks for the Gay Pride issue! Isabel luvs Michael: I’mm from the we(s)t coast of Canada, lived in the rainiest city. I’mm loving this cool and rainy Ammsterdam NL weather!!! Isabel Mike Dalley: My fave city - and people! De Zotte > “A perfect sanctuary for beer aficionados; there are over 150 bottles to choose from” 2√ Cafe Alto > They have daily performances of live jazz in a cosy room where everyone used to chain smoke. It has a very vintage vibe 6√
Heads-up news from the city
By: Tim Hilhorst
Breivik points to Amsterdam
Coordinates of Amsterdam, Utrecht, Rotterdam and The Hague have all been mentioned in Anders Breivik’s far right militant ideology/manifesto: A European Declaration of Independence. A number of different European cities are referred to in the manifesto, as well as coordinates that were discovered after a thorough investigation of the document. The coordinates pinpoint schools, bars and supermarkets. A team of computer experts and police found the hidden coordinates. After analysing links found in the document the team discovered 46 indications that could point to GPS-coordinates. The coordinates referring to Amsterdam pinpoint a location next to the Hugo de Grootplein. Source: Parool
Damrak to become Amsterdam has BBQ Ban Amsterdam’s most cocaine users Champs-Elysees The Damrak is to be transformed from the rundown state it is in now into something that more closely resembles Paris’ Champs-Elysees. In the future, exclusive stores and restaurants will embellish the busy road that leads from Centraal Station to the city centre. In an interview with NRC Stefan Diender, Director of the Amsterdam Tourism & Congress Bureau, explained that he wants to revitalise the street and make it friendlier for families. He also revealed plans to procure a large tourist attraction for Amsterdam and admitted that Amsterdam’s reputation must change. Source: Parool, NRC, ANP Photo: Wouter de Bruijn
Cocaine usage in Amsterdam is twice as high as that of cities like Utrecht and Den Bosch, says a report by the RIVM (The Dutch National Institute for Public Health and the Environment) and KWR (research institute). The organisations tested sewage water for the presence of drugs. The results showed that up to 1.2 grams of cocaine are used per 1,000 inhabitants per day in Amsterdam. The sewage water in Antwerp, however, contains the highest amount of cocaine in Europe according to a study done by the Luikse Univesiteit in Belgium. Waste water in the Netherlands and Belgium also contains a lot of amphetamines and ecstasy, which indicates that these drugs are manufactured within these countries.
Barbecuing in Amsterdam’s parks may soon be a thing of the past. If a plan by Amsterdam Zuid’s city council to ban barbecues from popular parks is ratified, open-air grill-outs will become illegal. The district council is hoping to fight growing problems with noise, rubbish and destruction of public property. The plans mainly deal with Amsterdam’s most popular park, the Vondelpark, but will also include Beatrixpark, Sarphatipark and Amstelpark. There has been mounting concern over scorch marks and the increasing amount of rubbish left in the parks. Source: Parool Photo: Dov Harington
Source: Parool Photo: Jack Zalium
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Heads-up news from the city
Amsterdam’s terraces most expensive
Pretty Penny for Parking Amsterdam is the eighth most expensive city in which to park your car, according to the Colliers International Parking Rate Survey. The investigative survey found that parking a car in Amsterdam can cost up to €40 a day. Only Oslo (€50), Copenhagen (€50), Melbourne (€48), Sydney (€47), London (West End, (€40) and City (€46)) and Tokyo (€43) charge more for a day of city parking. In the Netherlands the second most expensive city to park in is The Hague (€31) and third is Rotterdam (€21).
Amsterdam is once again the most expensive city in the Netherlands when it comes to sitting on a terrace and ordering a round of drinks. For eight years running the capital has topped the list. The results were found by research company Van Spronsen & Partners, which visited 21 cities and ordered two small beers, two rosé wines, two soft drinks and two coffees in each. The national average drink price has gone up by 3.6%, yet Amsterdam’s prices have remained the same in hopes of attracting more business. Nijmegen turned out to be the cheapest city in the country.
If the controversial ‘grasspass’ is adopted in Amsterdam only 30% of those currently frequenting coffeeshops would register themselves to do so in the future, suggests research carried out on behalf of the City of Amsterdam. Of the people interviewed 25% said they would grow their own cannabis or buy directly from growers. Another 25% suggested they would look elsewhere, like street dealers. Roughly 11% of the 1214 respondents said they would stop smoking cannabis if the government were to introduce a membership scheme. Ratification of the ‘grass-pass’ would make it impossible for tourists to legally acquire marijuana.
Source: RTLNieuws.nl Photo: Cesar Acebal
Source: AD.nl Photo: Roomic Cube
Source: Parool Photo: Luuk Kramer
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Passing on the grass-pass
Amsterdam
magazine
‘Guggenheim must come to the Netherlands’ A temporary exhibition from the Guggenheim Museum based in New York must come to the Netherlands, says the capital division of the social-liberal party D66. The ‘mobile lab’, called the BMW Guggenheim Lab, will travel to nine major locations around the world over the next six years. The lab will ‘address issues of contemporary urban life through programmes of public discourse.’ It is hoped the lab will stimulate forward thinking in areas of urbanism, architecture, art and science. Amsterdam should be one of the destinations on the tour, according to D66. Source: ANP
heads-up
Leidseplein Live Advertising
Amsterdam rainiest city
Stress for Schiphol?
The capital belongs to one of the rainiest regions in the country. Amsterdam North has had the most rainy days, along with the forest-rich Veluwe. With 28 days of rain, Amsterdam is firmly at the top of the wettest regions. The city now receives 100mm more rain than it did 30 years ago. Warming of the North Sea and westward winds blowing in moist air are responsible for the increase in rain. The average temperature has also gone up by one degree in the last 100 years, which is twice as much as other regions. This month an artist started painting last-minute holiday adverts on a billboard at Leiseplein. Travel company Sunweb calls in last-minute deals and the artist sketches them on the billboard as people watch. The deals are so last minute they are called in on the spot. Three of these adverts are sketched per week for the project, which is the brainchild of advertising company N=5. Our summer might be poor or altogether non-existent, and July might have been the wettest month in 45 years, but holiday resorts are thriving as Sunweb received a record amount of website hits in July. The project will run for the foreseeable future. Source: marketingtribune.nl Photo: Justine de Vries
Urban camping in Zuidas The Zuidas area of Amsterdam will be making space for urban campers. After winning a contest run by planning agency Zuidas, Ontwerpers A’dam and Another Architecture Office have been granted permission to build their ‘OASE’ (oasis) on the temporarily empty plot of land. The fivestorey structure will become a public space where the city, nature and culture will cross paths. Alongside art exhibitions, a restaurant, a club and other cultural activities the building will accommodate campers during the summer. The contest was organised as part of a plan to revitalise the otherwise industrial area.
Source: Parool
Even though Schiphol’s first six months were phenomenal, things are already looking grim for Amsterdam’s airport giant. The first half of the year saw growth of 5.2% in freight traffic, but since then growth has been decreasing and in June even went into negatives. Schiphol’s net profits, which grew by 40.5% in the first six months, are still predicted to be up from last year’s. The airport is likely to reach a record high of 49 million passengers this year.
Source: Parool
Source: Parool.nl
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Amsterdam
magazine
meet the dutch
polo to
the people! Enter a world only accessible to the happy few: the prestigious realm of polo. By: Caroline Goralczyk
W
ho could forget that notorious scene in Pretty Woman at the polo field, where Julia Roberts tries so hard to charm her way into high society, but fails miserably? Her smart dress and fancy hat didn’t help her much, either. That scene epitomises the posh image that polo is renowned for. Now Martijn van Scherpenzeel has opened the sport up to anyone who’s interested. With ‘A Day at the Field’, an initiative organised in cooperation with his team Adrenalina and the Polo Club Vreeland, polo turns into informal play, with a casual picnic setting and live DJs included.
ments are closed. Only invitees, sponsors and guests get access to the field. Our Dutch Polo Masters is open to anyone since we want to get rid of our elitist image,’ says Martijn. Entrance to the event will set spectators back just €5.
Women on top
Originating in Persia, polo is a fairly new sport in the Netherlands. Since the very beginning, the game has served as a status symbol for royals who imitated elite troops battling on venerable horses. That’s why players still look like a steadfast Napoleon in action. After being
‘Horses reach up to 60km/h’ Not so exclusive
‘We consider everybody a VIP in the Dutch Polo Masters,’ Martijn says while preparing for an upcoming game. It’s not without reason that polo is considered one of the most reputable sports worldwide. But what makes it so exclusive? ‘It’s a hard sport to get into. Polo is expensive; you need a lot of horses, space and the whole organisation around it. It’s like running a big company,’ he explains. Not only is it costly, but also one of the toughest sports there is. The horses reach up to 60 km/h and players need solid expertise. On 5 June and 28 August, van Scherpenzeel’s ‘Day At the Field’ presented the polo spectacle from a nontraditional side. ‘The traditional tourna-
passed on to English settlers in the 19th century, polo made its roots Argentina, which remains at the centre of the worldwide horse breeding and polo industries. Playing polo means a very busy life on the road, as tournaments are held all around the world. The lifestyle might be demanding, but the sport is not just favoured by the young. ‘Aging is not such a big deal in polo. In Brazil I played with a guy who was 70 years old and even needed a ladder to get on the horse,’ Martijn laughs. This player might have been 70, but he was obviously young at heart: he had seven girlfriends. Martijn smiles and continues: ‘I actually don’t know if it was the women who kept him young or the polo.’
15
unlocking the city
Street A
unlocking the city
rt Style
!
Allow our clued-up ’dam dwellers to help you unlock this city! In this issue, talent scout and art celebrity Sjocosjon gives us the inside scoop on Amsterdam street art. By: Tim Hilhorst
Where do we need to go to see good graffiti in Amsterdam? For great graffiti you need to go to the Schellingwouder bridge in East Amsterdam. There are a lot of big walls there that were given a lot of attention. The next best neighbourhood for street art remains the centre though. It has lots of little alleyways and you can get a beer on the way. Are there places in Amsterdam that are extra special to you? On my nineteenth birthday a bunch of friends and I ate some mushrooms in the Vondelpark. That was a very special experience. After ten years I still count those guys as my best friends. That close relationship is, in part, thanks to the park.
Sjocosjon [30] Artist & VJ sjocosjon.com
The kind of art you create doesn’t often get displayed in museums, where would we need to go to see more of it? Café Belgique is a really good bar that does a lot for ‘my kind’ of art. On the walls of the café inside and out you’ll find the best of what the Amsterdam street scene has to offer. The Go Gallery also does great work with street art. Hip-hop café Café De Duivel has a lot of dope expositions. It’s a real Amsterdam café that has been supporting street art since the beginning of time. Most of these places, The Sugar Factory and De Bitterzoet are great for drinks and a night out too. Mediamatic on the Vijzelstraat is the only renowned
exhibition space with real balls; the Stedelijk Museum could learn a thing or two from them. Is there often a connection to Amsterdam in your work? Yes, absolutely. I did an entire series called The Mokum Suicide Squad (ed., Mokum is a Yiddish nickname for Amsterdam). The subjects are armed
strippers defending the pride and honour of Amsterdam. The T-shirts of the series are also selling really well. In that respect I’m quite chauvinistic; I love Amsterdam. If someone says something negative about my city it really does something to me.
Any tips for aspiring street artists? If you decide to buy cans, and not steal them, buy them at Henxs and let them advise you about what caps to use. Use gloves, because clean hands are helpful in case of a possible arrest. If you’re going to paint a large surface, use a gasmask, your lungs will last much longer. Have fun!
Sjocosjon is a scout for talent agency Midnight Cowboys by day and an artist, illustrator and VJ by night. He studied art at the Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Amsterdam and you can see his work anywhere from London to Rio.
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dutch treat
Dutch Treat
Rijsttafel BY: Allison Guy
You may have already sampled some Dutch treats. If you’re brave you might have even tried a kroket or salty liquorice. But what about a rijsttafel?
Beef Rendang It would take days for one cook to prepare an entire rijsttafel. Get into the spirit of this feast by preparing beef rendang, a popular dish that originates from West Sumatra. The hardest part of rendang is finding the ingredients. After that, it’s a quick prep and a long simmer to a tasty meal.
R
ijsttafel , or ‘rice table’, is the Netherlands’ take on an Indonesian smorgasbord. It’s a mishmash of dishes from Sumatra, Bali and other islands, from Muslim, Hindu and Buddhist groups, all adapted to European tastes. It originated during Dutch colonial rule in Indonesia, when hotels, luxury ships and other swanky venues needed an excuse to show off at parties.
Gut-busting nasi Goreng While it’s up to the chef to decide what to serve, the most common rijsttafel foods include satay, sambals, banana fritters and anything that can be cooked in coconut milk. True to its name in Dutch, the centrepiece of the ‘rice table’ must be rice, either steamed or fried. With anywhere from 10 to 40 dishes, it can seem that the goal of the rijsttafel is to cram as much food as possible on the table and into your tummy. However, the gut-busting nasi goreng and rendang of the modern rijsttafel can’t hold a satay stick up to the past. In the colonial era, the overabundance of food could reach absurd proportions, with up to 100 dishes served in a single feast. Even after such a colossal dinner, the Europeans would not consider it a proper meal without a final course of steak!
s Try thi ! at h o m e
Lekker, enak and Tasty Purists rightly insist that rijsttafel is not authentic – it’s more popular in the Netherlands and South Africa than in Indonesia – but this Dutch invention does have its basis in authentic Indonesian cooking. The nasi Padang feast, also based around rice and accompanied by dozens of different foods, is the likely inspiration for the Dutch rijsttafel. Though it’s a relic of nearly 350 years of stormy colonial history, today’s rijsttafel is a multicultural product that is enak to Indonesians, lekker to the Dutch, and plain ‘tasty’ to everyone who gets to try it.
Ingredients: • 1.5kg of stewing beef, such as brisket or chuck, chopped into bite-sized pieces • 6 shallots or 2 yellow onions, chopped • 4 garlic cloves, chopped • 2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and chopped • 2.5cm piece of turmeric root, peeled and chopped • 1 large pinch of chopped galangal • 5 bird’s eye chillis, deseeded, more to taste • 2.5 litres of coconut milk, stirred well • 1 bay leaf • 1 stem of lemongrass Blend the shallots, garlic, ginger, turmeric, chillis, galangal and a splash of coconut milk in a food processor or blender. Heat some vegetable oil in a large wok or pot, and stir in the spice paste. Saute until the oil begins to separate from the paste and the spices are fragrant. Add the beef, bay leaf and lemongrass, and the coconut milk to cover. Simmer for two hours, or until the beef is tender and the coconut milk is reduced. During the last 15 minutes of cooking, stir frequently to prevent the beef from sticking and burning. Discard the bay leaf and lemongrass, and serve with steamed rice.
Eet smakelijk (Bon appétit!) 19
street style
fancy t hat!
Let’s fa ce for the it, the Dutch a ir sense ren’t fa m o three e xceptio f fashion. Her ous e are ns to th e rule. by: tim hilh
orst Photog raphy: S arah
Moore
Parisian-Chic
Fleur Geurtsen (25)
Outfit: Blouse: H&M (Boulevard Hausmann, Paris) Trousers: Zara (Via del Corso, Rome) Shoes: Bimba & Lola (Rue Paveé, Paris) Belt: Zara (Rotterdam) Watch: Timex (Siracusa, Italy) Glasses: Chanel (Rotterdam) Bag: Zara (Place d’Italie, Paris) How would you describe your style? ‘Every day it’s different. Today it’s more basic chic, but other times I wear rock style, a bit of Parisian chic or bohemian chic.’ Where do you like to shop? ‘Paris, where I live! But here in Amsterdam the nine streets are really nice. The Spuistraat also has some really nice vintage shops. Raak is a very nice shop on the Leidsestraat. A lot of labels come together there. Labels from Paris like Manoush or Tara Jarmon, but also a lot of Dutch brands. But if I had to pick something affordable I would have to say I like Zara and H&M because they adapt everything from the catwalk.’
21
Hobo-Chic
Alexander Willem (61)
Outfit: Glasses: Karl Lagerfeld (Looier Arts and Antiques) Shirt: Unknown (Albert Cuypmarkt) Suit Jacket: Belzoni (Dappermarkt) Shorts: H&M Bag: Found on the street Dogs: English Whippet I’m assuming this look isn’t called hobo-chic, what is the style you’re going for? ‘Royalty!’ Do you have a favourite brand? ‘No, I don’t have one. It’s too boring when you have a favourite brand. Everything is new when you have to go out and look for it. I have a very eclectic style. I don’t tie myself to one style or shop, I pick things up when I see them and they attract me. I like the Dappermarkt. It’s very cheap and you can put together your own outfits with very simple things to create something beautiful. I like vintage and new style, everything and anything I can find at the market and even some things I find on the street!’
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Amsterdam
magazine
street style
Bohemian Funk
Precious (27)
Outfit: Earrings: Jutka en Riska Tights: H&M Bracelet: Jutka en Riska Bag: River Island What is the weirdest thing you’ve ever bought, worn and now regret? ‘The strangest thing I ever bought was a pair of Spice Girls shoes and a furry coat – I looked like a teddy bear! But I don’t regret anything, everything makes a come-back eventually.’ How do you decide what to wear in the morning? ‘It depends on how I feel really. Sometimes I like wearing funky stuff and sometimes it’s more gloomy. My general style is ’70s look meets Bohemian.’ Where do you shop in Amsterdam? In terms of markets I really like the Albert Cuypmarkt and the Maandagmarkt (Monday market). Stores I really like are Episode, H&M and Monki.
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De Jordaan
living la vida local
De Jordaan is probably Amsterdam’s best-known district. Once a shelter for the poor and infamous, it’s now a hip district full of cosy restaurants, shops and art galleries. During De Jordaan Festival, from 16 to 18 September, past and present collide. By: Mike Peek
FEATURED
the world. The absurd overpopulation caused many problems. The poorest of the poor lived in damp cellars with little sunlight, which inevitably ruined their health. And since there was no running water yet, nor a sewer system, I’m pretty sure the Flower Canal didn’t smell like flowers. In fact, the polluted canals were perhaps the biggest problem of all. Children played with rats instead of toys and occasional cholera outbreaks ripped families apart... Can you blame a guy for seeking comfort in booze?
T
here’s a Dutch music genre called smartlappen: simple, sentimental songs about the pleasures and heartaches of the common man. Take Ach vader lief, toe drink niet meer, which translates to ‘Dear father, please don’t drink no more’. This song was very popular in De Jordaan of the 20th century. Around 1860 some masterminds discovered that cheap liquor could be made from potatoes and ruined the lives of entire generations in the process. Working class men had always loved a drink or two, but many of them now wasted their entire wages on alcohol. Disillusioned by a life lived in the slums, they spiralled down the road of addictive oblivion, often leaving their wives and children starving.
Hell on earth It had started out so idyllic. When the area now known as De Jordaan was annexed by Amsterdam in 1613, it still had a very rural character. With street names like ‘Flower Canal’ and ‘Laurel Canal’ you can easily picture folks walking around with a piece of straw between their teeth. That all changed within a few decades. ‘Old’ Amsterdam left the Middle Ages behind and introduced strict building regulations to make the city safer. But those regulations didn’t apply in De Jordaan. Practically overnight, the new district became a magnet for hagglers, who ran their shady, stinking businesses from wooden buildings very susceptible to fire. Uneducated workers (often immigrants) found jobs in De Jordaan and naturally needed a place to live. You can imagine the former grasslands filling up with ramshackle ‘houses’ pretty darn quickly. Around 1900 a staggering 80,000 people lived in the district. That’s 1,000 people per hectare, about three times more than in Mumbai, India; currently the most densely populated city in
26
Amsterdam
magazine
Demolition or make-over? De Jordaan’s remarkable rise from obscurity started after the Second World War, at a time when ’redevelopment’ often meant tearing down the old and starting afresh. A 1968 proposal sought to destroy the uninhabitable Jordaan completely and create a new borough with luxury apartments, offices, shopping centres and wide roads. But even though the population had shrunk considerably by that time, there were still enough diehard residents left to protest against the destruction of ‘their’ habitat. In the end, De Jordaan was revamped instead of bulldozed. Preserving the historical ground plan of the district, some old houses were renovated and others replaced by new ones.
Children played with rats instead of toys What hasn’t changed is the 85-metre-tall Wester Tower (adjacent to the Wester Church), widely considered to be the most important landmark in De Jordaan. Built between 1620 and 1631, the tower features prominently in many smartlappen and has a lot of admirers. Among them was Anne Frank, who mentioned in her famous diary that she could hear the carillon from the nearby house where she was hiding. Anne, like many inhabitants of De Jordaan throughout the centuries, perhaps found some comfort in the soothing sound of the tower’s (still functioning) bells. From April through October guided tours (€7) take you up to the first balcony of the Wester Tower for a magnificent bird’s-eye view of De Jordaan. You’ll be looking at four centuries of turbulent history, but also at one of Amsterdam’s most booming districts.
27
A booming district The mix of buildings dating from the 17th to the 21st century you see in De Jordaan today reflects the wide variety of its current population. In the ’70s and ’80s, a lot of working-class Jordanezen moved to modern and spacious houses (with an actual garden!) in other boroughs or upand-coming cities such as Purmerend and Almere. Even more people packed their bags after the overhaul of De Jordaan caused the rents to rise and saw a different crowd moving in. Students, artists and yuppies changed the soul of De Jordaan forever. What was once essentially a human drain became a breeding ground for hipsters and creatives. That’s not to say there aren’t any true Jordanezen left, but they now mingle with crowds from all classes of society. That’s what’s so great about De Jordaan: one moment you’ll pass a classic bruine kroeg (a dark café with a mostly middleaged clientèle playing cards or billiards), the next you’ll see a gallery or atelier from a renowned painter. Forgive me for employing the most over-used cliché in my handbook, but there’s truly something for everyone in De Jordaan: from small eateries to world-class restaurants. And from cheap antique shops to ultra-expensive boutiques. The Noordermarkt, home to the Noorder Church, is where people of all mindsets meet. Just like they did 300 years ago. What’s of course most attractive about De Jordaan is its appearance. You’ll be looking at four centuries of turbulent history, but also at one of Amsterdam’s most booming districts. The former warehouses with their wooden window shutters are now modern apartments. And the old canals, though still a bit smelly, have luxurious houseboats floating on them, often doing double duty as sun decks. The historic yet vibrant atmosphere of De Jordaan could never be recreated in a new district. Sure, progress comes with a price: when the original inhabitants left in great numbers, the traditional culture of De Jordaan all but disappeared. Every year in September though, you can get a glimpse of how things used to be.
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Amsterdam
magazine
FEATURED
De Jordaan Festival
The festival tries to recapture times long gone
‘Gedeelde smart is halve smart’ is an old Dutch expression, meaning ‘pain shared is pain halved’. So that’s exactly what people did in De Jordaan. They were all in the same boat and looked for support within their own community. That meant more than finding a shoulder to cry on when things got really bad. Life was lived on the streets and singers expressed their emotions through chanting plaintive or comforting songs about poverty, love and illness: smartlappen. The most talented ones became the stars of the ’hood, asked to perform at just about every block party. Despite, or perhaps thanks to, the poor housing conditions, social life flourished and a culture of pride and solidarity emerged. De Jordaan Festival essentially tries to recapture those times long gone. A variety of artists, both young and old, take to the stage at the Appeltjesmarkt to sing classic songs like Aan de Amsterdamse grachten (Along the Amsterdam canals), Bij ons in De Jordaan (Here in De Jordaan) and Ode aan de Westertoren (Tribute to the Wester Tower). Occasionally some new tunes are added to the canon. They’re not all tearjerkers, mind you. Some songs are really upbeat and don’t be surprised if people start dancing halfway through. The festival attracts a lot of Jordanezen who moved out in the ’70s and ’80s and return to their former neighbourhood to meet old friends. Before long the cafés will bustle with stories about their childhood and the hard lives of their fathers and grandfathers. There’ll be a lot of joking around, but some might also feel remorse about leaving. Isn’t De Jordaan where they really belong? If you plan to visit the festival, be sure to check out the nearby Johnny Jordaanplein (at the top of the Elandsgracht), where you’ll find statues of the most famous Jordaan singers like Johnny himself, Tante Leen and Manke Nelis. Outsiders can’t possibly understand what their songs mean to Jordaan natives. There’s still a way for you to fit in with the crowd though: learn to laugh and cry simultaneously.a
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Worth a visit Anne Frank Huis (Prinsengracht 263): Rightfully one of Amsterdam’s premier tourist attractions, the house where Anne Frank lived during the Second World War (before she was captured and killed by the Nazis) is a must for every visitor. Be smart and buy your time-reserved tickets from the website. The queue is often horrendous.
Lapjesmarkt (Westerstraat): Every Monday between 09.00
MOOOI gallery
and 13.00 the Westerstraat turns into a marketplace. One hundred and sixty stalls sell all kinds of fabrics, should you want to make your own curtains. On the same day, the nearby Noordermarkt is home to an old-school jumble sale.
Moooi Gallery (Westerstraat 187): One of the most impressive galleries in De Jordaan, Moooi is actually more like a furniture store; an anti-Ikea where design is far more important than functionality. To give you some idea: one of their bestsellers is a life-sized horse wearing a lamp on its head. That’s right, a life-sized horse wearing a lamp on its head. Brienenhofje (Prinsengracht 89): Tucked away behind the streets, you’ll find dozens of cosy hofjes (courtyards) in De Jordaan. Some, like the Brienenhofje, can be visited during the day, allowing for some quiet contemplation. Go Gallery (Prinsengracht 64): You’ll find both street art and gallery art at Go. Their new exhibition (3 September to 16 October) called Something for all the family, features work by Shepard Fairey, Logn Hicks, Vanwa and others. brienenhofje
Houseboat Museum (Prinsengracht 296K): Are you curious about what it’s like to live on a boat? This tiny museum will answer all your questions and then some.
Cafés and restaurants Café Lowietje (Derde Goudsbloemdwarsstraat 2): Perhaps the most Jordaanesque café of all, stepping into Lowietje is like stepping into the past. Musical legends like Tante Leen and Johnny Jordaan still reign supreme here.
Café Papeneiland (Prinsengracht 2): Best. Apple pie. Ever. But hey, don’t take our word for it! Last May former U.S. President Bill Clinton dropped by and had a piece. Suffice it to say Bill took home an entire pie and later sent the owner a thank you note. Isn’t that adorable? [See cover for an impression!] go gallery
Bordewijk (Noordermarkt 7): This exquisite French restaurant at the Noordermarkt opened in the ’80s, just as De Jordaan was transforming into yuppie heaven. Still one of the best places to eat in all of Amsterdam, but don’t forget your credit card. Raïnaraï (Prinsengracht 252): A testament to the multicultural vibe De Jordaan has these days, Raïnaraï is a high-end Algerian caterer/restaurant aimed at true gastronomes.
Coffeeshop 137 (Brouwersgracht 137): If you want to try the good stuff in a modern, clean environment without hassle, look no further than Coffeeshop 137. It’s where the locals go, yo.
knock knock
Knock knock This is how Amsterdam lives It’s the cit y’s smallest, and perhaps also sexiest, canal house. The residence of Teun van Wely has an interesting past and a prett y juicy present. Amsterdam Magazine takes a look inside ‘Het kleine trippenhuis’. by: marieke verhoeven | photography: sarah moore
T
he smallest canal house in Amsterdam, isn’t that located on the Singel? If you’ve ever been on a canal boat tour, that’s probably what you thought. Wrong. While the house with the narrowest front (only 1 metre in width) on the Singel is technically the smallest, it’s no longer occupied. So it doesn’t really count. >
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‘I’m happy with the big-busted sphinxes’
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knock knock
‘From strippers to she-males, they all come in to spill the beans’
The smallest residential canal house is located at Kloveniersburgwal 26 and proudly owned by Teun van Wely. He lives on the three upper floors and runs a shop specialising in ‘sexy avant-garde fashion’ downstairs. ‘Back in the late eighties, my father was looking for a good real estate investment. This house was so extraordinary that we decided to go for it,’ he says. At that time, the area around Nieuwmarkt wasn’t exactly considered ‘hot property’. ‘The house had already been up for sale for a year. The neighbourhood was pretty bad, houses were run down and there were lots of junkies on the street. But it’s had some serious renovation over the last twenty years and now it’s cleaner than ever.’
False history? Countless groups of tourists stop before Van Wely’s front door every day. Not just to look at his window full of sexy outfits, but also to hear the house’s legendary history. ‘Legend has it this house was built by the brothers Tripp, two very wealthy arms traders from the 17th century. When they were building their own house – the biggest canal house in town – one of their servants supposedly proclaimed: “If only I could have a house as big as my master’s front door!” After which one of the brothers decided to give the servant exactly that.’ A nice story, but according to Van Wely some things don’t add up. The numbers, for one. ‘The big house was finished in 1662, the small one not until 1696, when the two brothers had already passed. That raises some questions.’ However, the sculpted sandstone bas-relief on top of the house – a very costly decoration at that time – is proof that there must have been a lot of money involved. ‘Whether the story’s true or not, I’m happy with the two bigbusted sphinxes, they totally fit my store.’
Stripper clientele Because of its L-shape and light interior the house – that measures just 2.44 metres across – does not really feel that small. The first floor features a living room/library and kitchen, the bedroom and bathroom are on the second floor. The top floor is used for storage and has a surprisingly large and quiet roof terrace. ‘I love to sit here in summer and relax. Recently, I also bought five weed plants for personal use (ed., which is legal) and they’re growing quite well!’ Despite its serenity, Van Wely spends more time in his shop than on the roof. Opened together with his sister-in-law in 1995, the store is renowned for its erotic and fetish clothes. ‘My sister-in-law designs the clothing, also on request. And I import fetish shoes that are hard to come by here in Holland.’ As the Red Light District is just around the corner, Van Wely has a lot of sex workers as customers who provide plenty of juicy stories. ‘It’s great, I hear everything that’s going on in the neighbourhood. From strippers to she-males, they all come in on a regular basis and spill the beans!’
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amsterdam eats
amserdam eats
La Oliva In pursuit of culinary delights beyond bitterballen and frites, our expat foodie visits La Oliva: Authentic Spanish pintxos done properly. BY: hungry in holland
‘Clichés like paella are out’
L
a Oliva specialises in one of Europe’s oldest cuisines: pintxos – dishes from the Basque Country that are the cornerstone of Basque culture and society. Pronounced ‘peen-chose’, these tapas-like snacks are usually paired with wine and eaten in bars and taverns.
Get social If you like social eating there’s much to enjoy about La Oliva. Unlike most other quiet Jordaan establishments, the first thing that you notice is the lively atmosphere. In true Spanish fashion, it was buzzing with activity, with people sitting and ordering three-course meals, walking around with a wine glass in hand or hovering over the bar to grab their favourite pickings from the pintxos. At 17.00, the infamous pintxos are artistically presented along the bar and served until each piece is picked away. Guests can compete for their favourite pieces by ordering directly from the bartender or sit back, relax and have the servers bring them over. I hadn’t made a reservation, which left me seated at the busy bar on a Monday night; reservations are highly recommended. Though the bar was a bit claustrophobic, I relished being in the middle of the action and got first pick of these signature snacks. The extensive and exclusively Spanish wine list went well with the characteristic Basque ingredients of lamb, pork and seafood. As for pintxos, I opted for the whole spectrum, from tasty giant meatballs with cheese and tomato (a mini hamburger) to the lighter eggplant, asparagus and roasted tomatoes. From the Spanish tortillas to the simple ham on bread, I was impressed by the quality of each serving and at just €3 to €5 a pop, it’s a great way to enjoy a light dinner or snack with a glass of wine. Wine & Mini Dine If picking at small dishes is not your thing, you can also opt for the all-out dining experience. With the
The Outcome F Happy Taste Buds? Customer Service Interior Value for Money
Final Score:
§§§§2 §§§42 §§§§§ §§§42
8.0
Round-Up Cuisine: Spanish Neighbourhood: Jordaan Atmosphere: Busy Price pp: €20 to €50 Open: Sun-Wed 12.00 - 22.00, Thurs-Sat 12.00-23.00 Public transport: Tram 13, 14, 17 Credit cards accepted: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes
main courses, clichés like paella are out, replaced by more elegant dishes such as guinea fowl and swordfish. The swordfish was exceptionally moist, but the accompanying date tapenade could have been a bit more savoury than sweet. The guinea fowl, though doused with copious amounts of lemon, satisfied my appetite and worked nicely with the lentils and sweet pumpkin. The choice of desserts was limited to the usual crème brulee and tiramisu, which weren’t as extraordinary as the pintxos, but satisfied the sweet tooth nonetheless. Though I enjoyed the mains, afterwards my thoughts returned only to the simple pintxos. After all, La Oliva’s tag line is Pintxos Y Vinos, they know their speciality and guests should take the opportunity to indulge in the best the Basque country has to offer.
What others said: Iens.nl: “All I have to say about this restaurant after going once I went back the next day..” - Chef K Tripadvisor.com: “Food was great, as everyone said, but it was one of the noisiest places I’ve ever been.” - ajm1766
La Oliva Egelantiersstraat 122-124 +31 (0)6 3204316 laoliva.nl
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pimp my bike
Some people are riding around on a monster of a vehicle. Amsterdam Magazine is here to help them out! BY: arun sood photography: sarah moore
Rachel Norkin, 32
‘I want to go with a beach theme’
‘It was a complete leap of faith, but one that seems to have worked out really well so far,’ she says. ‘There are several things I really like about Amsterdam. It’s small enough to walk or cycle anywhere, and I love the café culture. I’ve learnt to slow down my pace enough to enjoy sitting on a terrace with friends for hours, enjoying the sun when it shines and watching the people pass by.’
A
msterdam is often described as a transient city, where people of all nationalities come and go whilst travelling around the world in search of new experiences. The city’s quaint charm, easy accessibility and flourishing cultural scene have long attracted international expats with a love for travel and exploration. When Rachel Norkin moved to Amsterdam from Southern California in the winter of 2010, she had no job or friends in they city, or any links with the Netherlands whatsoever.
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BEACH BIKE Now working as a sales management consultant, Rachel is based in Amsterdam but spends most of her time travelling throughout Europe on work assignments. She has already visited 17 countries this year alone, and it shows no sign of slowing down. When she isn’t on the road, Amsterdam’s laid-back atmosphere and charm provide the perfect setting for her to kick back and unwind. Naturally, Rachel has assimilated into the biking culture in Amsterdam and, after some initial apprehension, enjoys cycling leisurely around the city. ‘I knew there was a big cycling culture in the Netherlands before moving here and was a bit intimidated at first after hearing warnings of people being ruthless on bikes,’ she says.
Maria Michailidou The Pimping Artist
pimp my bike
‘I’m more worried about someone stealing it now’
But I’ve been riding bikes all my life and was sure I’d find my way, so one of the first things I did when I arrived was buy a purple bike.’ While Rachel has fast become accustomed to the cycling lifestyle, she decided that it was time to freshen up the way her bike looks, perhaps in a manner that reminds her more of home. ‘I want to go with a beach theme on my bike because I grew up in Southern California and spent my early twenties living walking distance from the ocean,’ she explains. Luckily, Amsterdam Magazine’s pimpin’ artist has come to her aid and is up for the beachthemed challenge. ARTISTIC MIX This month’s artist, Maria Michailidou, is originally from Athens, Greece and moved to Amsterdam five years ago to study art at the prestigious Rietveld Academy. After finishing her studies, Maria has continued to explore and work with various artistic mediums including video, painting and conceptual art installations. She is currently working on a series of landscape paintings inspired by vintage Greek cinema.
In addition to working on her paintings, Maria is also involved with a community of artists in the east of Amsterdam that work inside an abandoned school. ‘The building was sitting doing nothing, so it was collectively decided that it should be used as cultural centre for the neighbourhood,’ says Maria. ‘There’s a wide variety of artists that work here, and every Saturday we like to put on a performance of some sort. Whether it’s poetry, music or visual art...it’s usually a lot of fun.’ Maria also believes that Amsterdam’s reputation as a melting pot of nationalities only makes the art scene here interesting and diverse. ‘I think the city is very inviting for foreign artists, which usually makes things more interesting because people are always coming with fresh ideas of their own,’ she says. ‘Even in the studio that I work in, more than half of the artists are from outside Holland so there’s a real mix of ideas and identities at work which is a good thing in my opinion.’ NEW WHEELS Maria decides to go with Rachel’s idea of a beach-themed bike and
picks ocean blue, turquoise and some subtle, sandy colours for the main frame. Firstly, she strips the bike completely and applies an undercoat, before gradually blending the aqua colours together to create an effect of swirling water. Due to her use of gloss paint, the bike begins to shimmer and – in addition to helping the ocean effect – looks brand new again. After a long drying process, Maria carefully attaches small shrubs to the back of the bike frame in order to give it more of a natural flavour and a stylish finishing touch. Upon seeing her newly pimped bike, Rachel beams with delight. ‘I absolutely love how it turned out,’ she says. While she seems thoroughly satisfied with Maria’s work on the bike, she concedes to being a little apprehensive too. ‘The only downside is that I’m more worried about someone stealing it now as it looks like a nicer bike than before,’ she says. ‘But I love it, it’s amazing what a coat of paint can do.’ Would you like to have your bike pimped completely? Email us at info@amsterdam-magazine.com and we’ll see what we can do!
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A pyromaniac set fire to the dunes near Schrool (54km from Amsterdam). With the help of 18 crews and their helicopters, including a Cougar that carries 2,500 litres of water, local fireman successfully extinguished the blaze.
Burn Baby, Burn Photography: Valentina Vos@Witman Kleipool Concept: Tommy Hagen
fashion
Top: BZR Jacket: Sage & Ivy Shorts: H&M Boots: Patrizia Pepe
Gold tank top: Victoria Beckham Vest: Mads Nørgaard Fur bodywarmer: Minimu
Top with feathers: Tony Cohen Shorts: Sage & Ivy Ring: Otazu
Swimsuit: H&M Jacket: Twinset Boots: Edith & Ella
Fur: Wig Anthology Trousers: Marloes Blaas Belt: Markoviec Boots: Patrizia Pep
Styling: Equiline van Dooren@House of Orange Make-up: Anita Jolles for Bobbi Brown@House of Orange Hair: Tommy Hagen for Tommyztoko.nl@HOO Model: Veroniel@Paparazzi models Assistant Photography: Claire Van De Graaff Assistant Styling: Erika Szuc Assistant Hair: Robin Lindeboom
getting around
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getting around
Are you fed up with picture-perfect villages claiming to embody the true spirit of the Netherlands, while actually glorifying its past? Try IJmuiden instead.
caught between industry & Leisure
ijmu ide n By: Mike Peek
I
f you’re travelling by Fast Flying Ferry, the journey is part of the fun. This hydrofoil gets you from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station to IJmuiden in a mere 25 minutes. While 65 kilometres per hour may not sound quite hypersonic, it sure feels that way to a landlubber like myself. The occasional airtime sends my face into a grimace, much to the amusement of the toddler next to me.
Surfer’s paradise IJmuiden has the widest beach in the country and is highly popular among surfers, kiters and other water sports enthusiasts. On this gorgeous late summer’s day, they come in great numbers to defy the waves and enjoy the sunshine.
The nearby Seaport Marina is an equally idyllic scene with boat owners scrubbing their decks, taking off for a leisurely tour along the coast or just hanging around, making small talk with one another. On the horizon, however, the city shows its other face. Thick plumes of smoke escape the smokestacks of the local blast furnaces. To get closer to the stacks and IJmuiden’s other harbours, I can either catch a bus or walk through an industrial no man’s land.
Shooter video game I opt for the latter and am immediately pleased with my decision. This being a Saturday, it is extremely quiet in the area. A worn-out ship seems... >
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getting around
> to rise from the rough grassland, giving the scene a surrealist flavour. It looks like something out of a first-person shooter video game. Any moment now, I fear, bad guys may appear on the ship with the intention of killing me and I don’t have a place to hide. Or a gun. Luckily, my imagination runs wilder than reality. I make it to the small lighthouse alive. It stands in the middle of an awkward street with both old houses and new offices. I sneak behind them to enjoy a much closer look at the blast furnaces and ‘Forteiland’. This fort was built at the mouth of the North Sea Canal to protect Amsterdam from enemies who wanted to invade the city. Nowadays, it is used for parties and company outings. Every first Sunday of the month, from April through November, you can get a guided tour explaining the fort’s history and structures.
Fresh fish As I make my way back to civilization, the fishing harbour looms closer. It’s the biggest in the Netherlands and the restaurants across the street are supplied directly by the fishermen. Even if you’re usually not that keen on seafood, the freshness of the products here might tempt you to try some. A little further down the road lies Kop van de haven (‘top of the harbour’), where ships of all sizes await their passengers. Cruise ships depart for Newcastle, but there are smaller boats as well, offering one-hour cruises along the harbours (from April through October), and a water taxi (ditto) to VelsenNoord. The beach there, Strand Noordpier, is very popular with more professional surfers
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and kiters because of the strong wind and currents. Kop van de haven is also where Dutch princess Juliana fled the country when it was occupied by Germany in 1940.
Controlling water levels Perhaps Ijmuiden’s greatest claim to fame is its locks – a Dutch invention. They were Europe’s largest for a long time and continue to protect Amsterdam from flooding by controlling the North Sea Canal’s water levels. Roads are built over the locks, which means you can actually see them up close. I am about to cross the first one when a traffic light turns red. The road is moved to the side and the lock slowly opens to let a sailboat pass. Its captain casually waves at the attendant above him, who nods in return. Behind them, smoke keeps pouring from the blast furnaces. This scene, I realise, captures the very essence of IJmuiden; forever caught between leisure and industry.
]
I don’t have a place to hide. Or a gun.
getting around
How to get there The Fast Flying Ferry to IJmuiden departs from the back of Centraal Station. A return ticket will set you back â‚Ź8.25. More information and timetables: www. fff.nl. In IJmuiden take bus 82 (www. connexxion.nl or call 0900 2666399) to get to the beach and harbours. For more about IJmuiden, and a handy map, visit www.ijmuidenaanzee.nl.
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the ten
the 10
OutDoor Markets By: Brandon Hartley
Amsterdam hosted its first outdoor market – a row of stalls set up in the Jewish Quarter – in the 18th century. Since then markets have sprung up all over the city, selling everything from flowers to farm produce, and from books to bric-a-brac. We pick ten of the best outdoor offerings.
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Bloemenmarkt
There are dozens upon dozens of places where you can buy flowers in Amsterdam but this is the only one on water. In fact, the Bloemenmarkt is the only floating market of its kind in the world. Located on the Singel canal, its vendors have been slinging posies since 1862. These days, the number of flowers and plants for sale has decreased to make room for other items. It’s the perfect place to head if you’re in search of seeds or bulbs, as well as souvenir gifts for friends and family back home. ALbert cuypmarkt
The Singel Canal, by Muntplein
Albert Cuypmarkt
1
Let’s get the most obvious one out of the way, straight off the bat. A trip to the Albert Cuypmarkt can be overwhelming. On an average day, there are more than 300 vendors selling everything from Dutch favourites like herring and stroopwafels to international food, kitchenware and electronics. A popular local landmark since 1905, the Albert Cuypmarkt draws huge crowds of Amsterdammers, tourists and expats. A quick head’s up though: the prices tend to be low but the quality of many products is too. If the tag on a digital camera is ‘too good to be true’ there’s probably a reason for it.
Noordermarkt Farmer’s Market
For those with hunger pangs for farmfresh eggs, and cash to spare, this is the place to head for quality, organic goods. Since 1987, this small market has offered hungry locals fresh fish and cheese made from natural ingredients, in addition to an array of spices, nuts and even cakes. The real draw, however, is mushrooms (of the non-psychedelic variety; ‘magic’ ’shrooms were officially banned in 2008). The market sells fungi from forests all over the Netherlands and from as far away as France and Lithuania.
Monday-Saturday, 09:00-17:30, Sunday, 11:00-17:30
Noordermarkt
Postzegelmarkt
Saturday, 09:00-15:00
This one specialises in stamps, coins and old medals. Visitors come from all over the Netherlands to visit this unique market that is a must for collectors. Given that these hobbies are usually reserved for retirees, the crowd that frequents this particular corner of Amsterdam tends to sway gray. Similar markets have died out elsewhere in Europe but here the tradition lives on. Head in this direction if you’re eager to get a look at a guilder coin, the beautifully designed, and still mourned, Dutch currency that was ditched in favour of the euro in 2002.
Albert Cuypstraat Monday-Saturday, 09:00-18:00
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal
albertcuypmarkt.com
Wednesday and Saturday, 10:00-16:00
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Noordermarkt
the ten
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Spui Boekenmarkt
Waterlooplein Flea Market If you ever find yourself longing for garage sales, seek out this popular outdoor bazaar. It’s easy to get lost among its dozens upon dozens of stalls, selling just about every form of bric-a-brac imaginable. Waterlooplein puts the ‘tack’ in ‘tacky’ and this is the only market in town were haggling over the prices is often encouraged. On the prowl for an old military uniform? Or a telephone shaped like Garfield? Or an oil lamp from Morocco, perhaps? Look no further. Waterlooplein Monday-Saturday, 09:00-18:00 waterloopleinmarkt.nl
7 boekenmarkt
Ten Katemarkt
Spui
This bustling market can be found in Amsterdam’s Oud-West district. Its 130 stalls sell fruit and vegetables, as well as clothing and fabrics. Popular among locals, there’s little here to hold a tourist’s interest. This isn’t a bad thing though! Some might describe Ten Katemarkt as a sanctuary from the city’s crazier markets. Plus, sometimes you just need the basics, right? Stadsdeel, Oud West
Every Friday, this market sets up shop in front of the American Book Center in an area widely considered to be a haven for bibliophiles. The surrounding neighbourhood’s bookshops, along with merchants from outside the city, gather together here to sell tomes covering a variety of topics. In addition to Dutch literature, you’ll find books in German and English, as well as plenty of art and photography titles. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, the city’s most popular bookshops are mere footsteps away.
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Fridays, 10:00-18:00 deboekenmarktophetspui.nl
Monday-Saturday, 09:00-18:00
The Modern Art Market
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dappermarkt
Dappermarkt National Geographic Traveler listed this market, well known for its international food and products, as one of the ‘Best Shopping Streets in the World’. Head here for some of the most inexpensive shopping you’ll find in Amsterdam. Dappermarkt’s 250 stalls and 160 vendors offer stuff from almost every corner of the globe. They’ve got everything from African cosmetics to sweets from Japan.
After 25 years at Thorbeckeplein, this modern art market relocated to Rembrandtplein this past spring. Here, local and emerging virtuosos sell works ranging from sculptures to prints and paintings under the watchful gaze of the Old Master himself. Just remember this old adage: art is whatever the artist says it is. Rembrandtplein Sunday, 10:30-18:00 modernartmarket.nl
Ten katemarkt
10
Westerstraat Market
Hunting for new additions to your wardrobe? Clearance items and stock from bankrupt shops around Amsterdam typically end up at this clothing market in the Jordaan district. These articles, as well as garments with minor factory defects and shoes in odd sizes, can be found on the 60 stands at the corner of Westerstraat and Prinsengracht. Believe it or not, it’s possible to encounter top names like Armani and Gucci on the racks. The market also has around 100 other stands offering textiles, cosmetics and livingroom decor.
Dapperstraat Westerstraat
Monday-Saturday, 09:00-17:00 dappermarkt.nl
Modern Art
Mondays, 09:00-13:00
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still/life
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expo
Foam celebrates its tenth anniversary this year, and to mark the occasion it will host Still/Life – a group exhibition showcasing Dutch talent that the gallery has discovered, followed and presented over the last decade. Photographers include Anuschka Blommers and Niels Schumm, Qiu Yang, Johannes Schwartz, Krista van der Niet and Melanie Bonajo.
foam 9 September – 26 October Open: Daily, 10.00 - 18.00, Thurs & Fri 10.00 - 21.00 Entrance: €8 Keizersgracht 609 +31 (0)20 5516500 foam.org Fruit, 2008 © Krista van der Niet
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Peuk & Wijn, from the series Procrastinators, 2011 Š Lernert & Sander / Courtesy Nederlands Instituut voor Mediakunst
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A, 2009 Š Uta Eisenreich
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Trampling, from the series Elektrotechnique, 2011 Š Lernert & Sander / Courtesy Nederlands Instituut voor Mediakunst
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Balancing Orange, Pink and Yellow , 2008 © Qiu Yang
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drink
JAY’S JUICES
R
ather than opt for a packaged smoothie from a supermarket, pay a visit to one of the most comprehensive juice bars in Amsterdam. You might even get more than you initially bargained for.
By: Arun Sood
JUICY EPIPHANY
Jay’s Juices has been rejuvenating weary travellers and thirsty locals for just over a decade. Eccentric owner Jay Garrido dedicates his time to creating salubrious concoctions from fresh fruits and vegetables, and his remarkable life story is an inspiration for us all to lead a healthier life. Originally from Aruba, Jay moved to Amsterdam more than 20 years ago and soon found himself on a downwards spiral of drug addiction, alcohol abuse and crime. Jay’s wild and exploratory nature meant holding down a job was nearly impossible, and his condition only worsened over the following years. At his lowest point of addiction, nearing death, Jay claims to have had a vision of his deceased grandmother, who handed him a rooster’s feather in a dream. While some of his friends thought he was verging on insanity, Jay saw the feather as a symbol of his infinite inner strength and decided to kick his habit by detoxing with juices. After his epiphany,
Jay decided to make healthy juices for a living and made it his personal mission to encourage others to live a pure, harmonious lifestyle.
The trays of blood-purifying plants are homegrown VEGGIE VITAMINS
With a menu consisting of more than 50 fresh blends, you might initially have a hard time choosing which thirst-quencher to pick. Luckily, Jay has organised all his juices into different categories to suit your needs. Whether you are looking to cure a hangover or want to soothe aching muscles, Jay’s on hand to recommend the perfect drink. Some of the more popular blends include ‘Morning Glory’ (a blend of melon, mango, apple and orange) and ‘Rainbow’ (a refreshing mix of passion fruit, strawberry, apple and pear). For
those looking for a more thorough detox, there’s a variety of vitamin-packed veggie blends such as the ‘Red Devil’ (chilli, tomato, celery and carrot) and the ‘Fast Booster’ (tomato, celery, ginger and carrot). When not blending fresh juices, Jay can usually be found tending shoots of wheatgrass in the cellar of his shop, where he grows trays full of the blood-purifying plant. While the homegrown wheatgrass is an ingredient of many of the blends, it’s also sold as an ice-cold shot. Having found fulfilment through his love of fresh juices, Jay’s positive outlook might just rub off on you should you visit the juice bar. Even if it doesn’t, you’ll still be guaranteed a refreshingly tasty drink and an added dose of vitamins.
Jay’s Juices Haarlemmerstraat 14 +31 (0)20 6231267
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Dutch a-z North’. One hundred kilometers of canals (or grachten in Dutch) divide the city into smaller islands, connected by beautiful historic bridges. The most famous canals are the Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. A canal tour is a great way to view the city from a different angle. The canals were created centuries ago and were often used for transporting goods.
Every issue Amsterdam Magazine covers the whole alphabet to help you understand what the Dutch are all about.
* 11 Cities Tour Although the Dutch love to complain about cold winters, they forget all about their grudges once the canals and lakes are frozen over. Let the ice-skating begin! [see Ice skating for more info] When the ice is thick enough (15cm), the largest speed ice-skating competition can take place. The ‘11 Cities Tour’ (Elfstedentocht) is a rare event because most winters are not cold enough. The last tours were in ‘85, ‘86 and ‘97. The tour is held in the Friesland province and the 200km course goes through 11 historic cities.
What’s Holland without cheese? Being the largest exporter, Holland offers many varieties of this yellow delicacy, such as Gouda, Edam, Maasdammer and Boerenkaas (farmer’s cheese). Make sure you take some of that gold back home!
12th century, Amsterdam became one of the most important ports in the world.
B Bicycles Some claim that there are more bicycles than people in the Netherlands. In Amsterdam, you will often see cyclists weaving nonchalantly between pedestrians. Renting a bicycle in Amsterdam might be a great idea to explore the smaller streets, but be careful if you’re not used to riding one!
Bitterballen Quite similar to the Kroket [see Kroket for more info], these little snacks are often served on special events such as birthdays, sport events or during business meetings. Of course, a beer perfectly complements this hot snack. Make sure you dip it in mustard before eating!
Clogs Ask anyone; “What’s typical Dutch?” and they often say wooden shoes. These shoes, also known as clogs, are actually no longer worn by the Dutch, but are still a popular souvenir. Originally, the wooden shoes were worn because of their protective features and were actually quite warm to wear since they were lined with hay.
If you’re searching for a hot, steaming coffee don’t be fooled; coffeeshops in Holland offer their customers something totally different. These coffeeshops will sell you (small) amounts of grass and you can smoke a joint on the premises, but only if there’s no tobacco inside, since the smoking of tobacco inside public places is banned. A small fact: it is actually illegal to sell weed, but not punishable, making it quite easy to get your stash.
D Delftware A Amsterdam Amsterdam is the capital and the largest city in the Netherlands. The city has a population of 1.4 million - quite impressive considering it began as a fishing village. In the late
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Boerenkool [see Stamppot for more info]
C Canals Amsterdam is sometimes referred as ‘Venice of the
Drop Black candy, it doesn’t sound nor look attractive, but the Dutch love it! Also known as liquorice in English, Dutch drop comes in hundreds of flavours and shapes. Most varieties will taste sweet, but some can be quite salty, so beware, it’s an acquired taste.
Dutch Treat
Coffeeshops
3 kisses In most cultures it’s common to greet a friend with a kiss (or two). The Dutch however, like to add one extra. These three kisses are actually air kisses; the lips should not touch the other person’s cheek. Oh, and to avoid akward situations: men don’t kiss eachother!
Cheese
done to prevent the country from flooding? Well the Dutch are very skilled at water management [see Water Management for more info] and dykes are one of those solutions. A dyke is a long wall or embankment which prevents water getting from one side to the other.
This is typical blue and white Dutch pottery that originated in the city of Delft. The original tinglazed pottery was made from the 16th to the 18th centuries.
Dykes A very large part of the Netherlands is actually below sea level, so what can be
Ah, the Dutch Treat; we all use it from time to time. Being known as penny-pinchers, the Dutch prefer to split the total bill at a restaurant and only pay their part. The Dutch Treat is also known as Going Dutch or the Dutch Date.
E Efteling Why go to Euro Disney when the magic is right here in Holland? The Efteling is Holland’s largest theme park, with fairytales around every corner. You can meet Little Red Riding Hood, trolls, elves and creatures you’ve never even seen before. There are also plenty of adrenaline rides, so it’s fun for the whole family. The Efteling is located in the south of Holland (Kaatsheuvel). Go to www. efteling.com for more info.
F FEBO Got a sudden craving for a crispy kroket or frikandel? [see Kroket or Frikandel for more info] Find a FEBO outlet and make sure you’ve got some coins on you. The FEBO is a fast food chain of automatiek restaurants, where you can buy your snacks from a wallmounted vending machine.
Frikandel This typical Dutch snack is shaped like a large sausage, but it’s rather different to the average sausage. It’s made from minced meat, deep-fried and
often eaten in a bun (broodje frikandel) or at least with a mixture of sauces. A frikandel speciaal is quite a popular variant; chopped onions together with mayonnaise and ketchup (or curry sauce) is placed in a frikandel that’s been cut open. A frikandel can be bought in a snack bar (fast food restaurant) such as a FEBO [see FEBO for more info] and is a typical party snack.
boterham (toast) with hagelslag.
Haring (herring)
G G (the pronunciation) Notable in the Dutch language, is the pronunciation of the letter ‘g’. Non-natives often struggle with this strange gurgling sound. In the northern and western parts of Holland, the letter ‘g’ is pronounced louder, a so-called ‘hard g’. In the other parts a ‘soft g’ is more common.
Gay marriage The Netherlands legalised gay marriage back in 2001, making it a popular destination for gay couples due to the tolerant attitude. Every first weekend in August, the popular Amsterdam Gay Pride event is held, attracting hundreds of thousands of gay and straight visitors. The most interesting part of this event is the canal parade, where a variety of themed boats sail along the canals.
Gezellig The Dutch word gezellig cannot be translated in any other language and is used in various ways. It means something like cosy, friendly or nice, but can also refer to time spent with loved ones or being very sociable. Things that can be gezellig are; hanging out with friends, a bruin café, drinking coffee with the neighbour or even a nicely decorated room in the house.
Going Dutch [see Dutch Treat for more info]
H Hagelslag Cloggies eat a lot of bread. They eat it at breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner. Hagelslag is a typical Dutch chocolate topping that is sprinkled on toast (preferably white) with a thick layer of butter. Children in particular are quite fond of
This typical Dutch scenario is often quite repellent to outsiders: a raw shiny silver fish, covered with chopped onions, is held by its tail and is dangled over to the open mouth. With head tilted back, the fish is eaten (again, raw) and often a second one will follow. Yes, the Dutch love fresh haring every once in a while. A haring in a white bun is also quite popular. If you’re brave enough to try, go out an find some Hollandse Nieuwe catch between May and July; this is the best type of herring.
Heineken If you’ve never heard of Heineken, you must have been living under a rock. This brand of beer is world famous and originated the Netherlands. In Amsterdam you can visit the Heineken Experience to get to know everything you could possibly want to know about this golden liquid.
HEMA This Dutch department store with favourable prices has become quite hip in recent years. With more than 400 stores in the Netherlands, HEMA (Hollandse Eenheidsprijzen Maatschappij Amsterdam / Dutch Standard Prices Company Amsterdam) offers everything from homeware to clothing, office supplies to delicious sausages (rookworst) [see Unox for more info about rookworst].
Hyves Ever tried to find a Dutch friend on Facebook? This can
dutch a-z be quite hard, because most of the Dutch are already quite busy maintaining their social networks on Hyves.nl. You might want to sign up there if you want to stalk that Dutch chick or dude.
I Ice skating Ice skating is a popular winter activity in Holland. Though the Dutch love to complain about cold weather, once the ice is strong enough, they will get their skates out and take to the ice. In larger cities, small skating rinks will be created to offer a safer alternative to natural ice. These small rinks are often quite gezellig [see Gezellig for more info] and you can enjoy a hot cocoa and other delicacies at the rink side. Speed skating is also a very popular sport in Holland [see 11 Cities Tour for more info].
[see Kibbeling for more info]. The
word ‘lekkerbek’ can also imply a person who really appreciates food.
M Mayonnaise This emulsion of oil, vinegar, lemon juice and egg yolk is often served as a dipping sauce for fries or chips.
N Nachtwacht (Night Watch)
The most famous Dutch painting, by Rembrandt van Rijn in 1642 [see Rembrandt for more info] is actually called The Company of Frans Banning Cocq and Willem van Ruytenburch. The picture is a group portrait of a division of the civic guard and is renowned for its size (363 x 437cm). You can see the Nachtwacht in Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum.
J Jonkie This Dutch gin (also referred to as Jenever) is a strong (35%+) liquor made in Holland and Belgium. There are two types of Jenever; old (oude) and young (jonge). The difference is not in age, but in the distilling techniques.
K Kaaskop
Kibbeling Cloggies are fond of fish and often treat themselves to a little fish snack. Kibbeling consists of deep fried chunks of cod topped with spices. These nuggets are served with specific sauces and taste quite similar to a lekkerbek [see Lekkerbek for more info].
Kroket The Dutch may not be famous for their haute cuisine, but they sure know how to snack! When you’re near a snack bar or a FEBO, go grab yourself a kroket; a crispy, sausage-shaped meat roll filled with (hot!) minced meat. The taste is quite similar to bitterballen [see Bitterballen for more info] and should be served with mustard and, if preferred, in a white bun.
Lekkerbek is deep fried cod and literally means ‘tasty beak’. The taste is quite similar to kibbeling
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Nieuwjaarsduik On January 1, thousands of people take a dip in the icy sea at Scheveningen, wearing nothing but a bathing suit, to celebrate the start of the new year. Afterwards, a hot pea soup provided by Unox [see Unox for more info] is truly a well deserved treat.
O Oliebollen
Known in English as the ‘Dutch doughnut’, Oliebollen are traditional Dutch treats that are especially popular around New Year. The deep-fried dough is often covered in powdered sugar and comes in different varieties. In the holiday season, oliebollen stands pop up around the country to satisfy the winter dessert cravings.
Orange
L Lekkerbek
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P Pannekoeken (Pancakes)
These Dutch pancakes are slightly different then the American ones; they’re thinner and larger in size. Also various ingredients may be added to create surprising flavours. You can eat a basic pancake with ‘stroop’ (sugar beet syrup) or powdered sugar or go for the traditional ‘spek’ (bacon) pannekoek.
Poffertjes These mini pancakes are a traditional treat and taste quite similar to pancakes, but have a firmer and spongier texture. Typically, poffertjes are served with powdered sugar and butter, but other toppings are also available.
Prostitution
(New Year’s Dive)
Kaaskop is a (not so nice) nickname for a Dutch person. It literally means ‘Cheesehead’.
When visiting Holland during the European Cup and World Cup football, or on Queen’s Day [see Queen’s Day for more info], the streets and people will be wearing their national colour with pride.
Orange is the national colour of the Netherlands. The association originated from the name of the royal family ‘Oranje-Nassau’.
Holland is a very open-minded country and legal prostitution is not hard to find. Brothels and red light districts are often touristic sights. In these red light districts, women are displayed behind windows, where you can pick your favorite and negotiate the deal. Typically, red light (or purple light for darker ladies) is switched on to show the passerby that there is sex for sale. When in Amsterdam, ‘de wallen’ area is a must-see. [see Wallen for more info]
Q Queen’s day Queen’s Day celebrates the birthday of the Dutch queen and is held on 30 April (unless that’s a Sunday, in which case it’s celebrated the day before). It’s not actually the birthday of the current Queen Beatrix, but her mother, Queen Juliana, but the tradition remains. This day is known for its ‘free market’ (vrijmarkt), where everybody is allowed to sell things on the streets. The streets and the people are coloured orange [see Orange for more info]. It’s probably one of the most gezellige [see Gezellig for more info] times in Amsterdam.
R Red Light District [see Wallen for more info]
Rookworst A typical Dutch sausage, made
with ground meat, mixed with spices, which is stuffed into a casing. While it literally means ‘smoked sausage’, it’s not truly smoked. This sausage is a typical ingredient of stamppot [see Stamppot for more info] and is often bought from HEMA [see HEMA for more info] or the supermarket. Unox is also a popular brand of rookworst [see Unox for more info].
S Sinterklaas While Christmas is widely celebrated in the Netherlands, children generally look forward to Sinterklaas more. This yearly Dutch feast is celebrated on December 5 and holy man Sinterklaas (who has a lot of similarities to Santa Claus) is the central character. The holy man and his helpers the ‘Zwarte Pieten’ [see Zwarte Piet for more info] will sneak through the chimney and leave behind jute sacks filled with presents for wellbehaved children.
Stamppot When it’s getting chilly outside, the Dutch like to eat stamppot for dinner. Stamppot is a mixture of boiled potatoes and vegetables topped with gravy and served together with meat such as rookworst [see Rookworst for more info]. Popular stamppotten are Boerenkool (farmer’s cabbage), Andijvie (endive), Zuurkool (Dutch sauerkraut) and Hutspot (potatoes mixed with onion and carrot).
T Tulips If you come to the Netherlands in the spring, you can’t miss the tulip fields in the countryside. The Dutch love their flowers and the tulip is their most prized possession. Home to the world’s largest tulip garden, Keukenhof is a nice place to see the colours and varieties of tulips.
U Unox This consumer product brand is presented as something typically Dutch. Their rookworst [see rookworst for more info] is often eaten during winter times and Unox is a prominent sponsor of the 11 cities tour [see 11 Cities Tour for more info] and the nieuwjaarsduik [see Nieuwjaarsduik for more info].
South Holland. The 19 historical working windmills are on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list and are among the most popular tourist destinations in the country.
Wooden Shoes [see Clogs for more info]
V VOC
(Dutch East India Company) The VOC (Vereenigde OostIndische Compagnie) was a chartered company established in 1602. It was the first multinational company and the first that handed out shares. For decades this monopolistic concern dominated the global spice trade, transporting spices using large ships (you can see a replica ship at the Scheepvaartmuseum in Amsterdam). The VOC representatives used violent methods to gain respect from the native population. In the first years of the 1800s the VOC slowly fell apart.
W Wallen De Wallen is the largest and most famous red light district in Amsterdam. It is a network of alleyways and canalside buildings where approximately 300 windows are used by prostitutes [see Prostitution for more info]. The prostitutes sit behind a window in a room with a red light. This is a major tourist attraction in Amsterdam and the area also includes a number of sex shops, peep shows, and a sex museum.
X xxx You might presume that the triple X sign represents the erotic scene in Amsterdam. Well it could. But when you ask a Dutch person what XXX means, they will probably say three kisses [see 3 Kisses for more info]. The XXX is quite similar to the American xoxo (hugs and kisses). These three letters are also to be found everywhere on the streets of Amsterdam, such as on amsterdammetjes (steel bollards). In that case the crosses are part of the city’s crest, and are actually Saint Andrew’s Crosses - not that sexy, but of historic value.
Y Yiddish Many words from the Amsterdam dialect originate from the Yiddish language. Examples are mazzel (lucky), mesjogge (crazy), nebbisj (unlucky person), achenebbisj (poor, messy) and koosjer (in order, all ok). Before WWII, Amsterdam was home to a large group of Jews whose mother tongue was Yiddish.
Z Zwarte Piet Water management Since large parts of the Netherlands are below sea level, the Dutch have become very inventive when it comes to keeping the water out. Their systems are utilised globally and range from dykes and dams to well-engineered automatic floodgates.
Windmill The Dutch are famous for their windmills and have a long tradition of using windmills for land draining, corn milling, saw milling, and more. There are currently 1200 windmills that still survive today. The largest collection of windmills are located at Kinderdijk in
(Black Pete)
Sinterklaas’s [see Sinterklaas for more info] companions are loved by children. The funny looking characters with colourful costumes and blackened faces are subject to much debate. Foreigners are often shocked by their appearance. While it is a very old tradition, the fact that their faces are covered in black make-up and they are Sinterklaas’s helpers is unacceptable to some.
wet your whistle
Wynand Fockink There’s no seating inside and, on a busy night, patrons inevitably find themselves standing in the street. But Wynand Fockink has a way of tumbling into your life like a character from a Roald Dahl book. It’s the Willy Wonka or Fantastic Mr. Fox of the Amsterdam bar scene. By: Brandon Hartley Photography: Sarah Moore
W
ynand’s story goes all the way back to 1679 when its namesake opened a distillery and tasting room a few hundred yards from the Royal Palace. Over the course of the century that followed, the operation became enormously successful, supplying exotic liqueurs to everyone from the queen of the Netherlands to foreign courts across Europe. After World War II, however, the distillery faced increasing competition and was forced to close its doors in the ‘70s. Squatters took over the building as it fell into disrepair. In the early ‘90s, it was resurrected as a museum and the tasting room re-opened, in addition to a smaller version of the distillery and a liquor shop.
Bridal tears Like the distillery itself, almost all of the drinks at Wynand Fockink come with enough historical baggage to fill a galleon, many of them dating back to the 18th century or earlier. It’s easy to find yourself reading each and every word on the menu. Take, for example, Bruidstranen, which translates as ‘Bridal Tears’. Once upon a time, this foreboding cocktail was supposedly served after couples made their marriage vows at Amsterdam City Hall. Legend has it that famous Dutch poet Martinus Nijhoff stopped in one night in 1913 after becoming smitten with a woman he spotted during a sojourn. Overcome with passion, he poured a few of Wynand’s liqueurs down his gullet and his unrequited love into a poem titled Young
Lady in Green. That evening has since been immortalised in a drink of the same name (vanilla and orange liqueur with pistachio for colour). Other items on the menu come with descriptions that read like a pitch from a snake-oil salesman in an old western. They’ll cure what ails ya’, whether you’re looking to mend a broken heart, soothe your aches and pains or even produce more milk for a newborn. Strong stuff The tasting room looks like it hasn’t changed much in the past 300 years. Its sagging shelves are lined with antique bottles and the floor looks it age; over the centuries, thousands of Amsterdammers have trodden upon it. Wynand has wines and a few beers on tap but you’ll no doubt be coming in for the strong stuff. Each is served in a gin glass, filled to the top. Try to pick it up and you’ll spill half of it all over yourself. According to tradition, the first sip must be taken off the bar itself, with your hands at your side.
Wynand will no doubt cast its spell on you
This weird little treasure also draws a diverse crowd. On any given night, you’ll find suited businessmen and hip locals drinking alongside elderly Australian tourists and giggling bachelorette parties. Yes, you’ll be back because, simply put, there’s no other place in Amsterdam, maybe even in all of Europe, like Wynand Fockink. Wynand Fockink Pijlsteeg 31 +31 (0)20 6392695 wynand-fockink.nl
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Framed!
BY THOMAS SCHLIJPER
26 August, Bornhout, 15:10
Every day Thomas Schlijper takes a picture. Check out his blog at www. schlijper.nl and see what the beating heart of Amsterdam looks like. Here’s a sneak preview!
A girl is happily reunited with her bike. She parked it in the wrong place at Centraal Station and so it ended up in the Bike Depot, far outside the city.
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moonwalking with Einstein You don’t need a photographic memory in order to win the US memory championship. In his book Moonwalking with Einstein journalist Joshua Foer, 29, reveals his secret. By: Mathilde Hoekstra
W
hy memorise a phone number if it’s already in your contact list? Why remember some ancient war if Uncle Google can tell you all you need to know about it? And why keep in mind what you ate on Thursday if it’s going to be something different tomorrow? Back in the day memory was vital. If you forgot which plants were edible, you would die. And the same fate probably awaited if you couldn’t recall the exact location of your cave. It’s only when Gutenberg started printing (1439) that people had books to rely on. And almost 700 years later audio, television and the world wide web were added to that. No wonder laziness set in. When internet journalist Joshua Foer was asked to write a story about the US memory championship, he thought that the contestants – who could easily recite a poem, reproduce hundreds of names and numbers in a special order and even memorise sets of playing cards within a minute – were geniuses. But when he confronted these mental athletes with his assumption, they told him anyone could do the trick. Claudia Schiffer Basically there are two kinds of memory: the one you’re born with and the one
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- ‘You’re too dry for my taste’
interview
you can train. That last one – better known as the artificial memory – recognises both places and images. A place could be anywhere but it’s best to visualise a location you know well, like the house you grew up in for example. An image could comprise everything you need to remember and the trick is to visualise it inside your own bedroom, bathroom, living room or kitchen.
Release the Rain Man that’s hiding inside your brain This means that if you have to buy hüttenkäse (cottage cheese), you don’t just think of cheese but you imagine Claudia Schiffer taking a bath in it. And if you have to buy six bottles of wine, line them up on your mum’s couch and make the Riesling argue with the Chardonnay about who tastes better. Once you’re done with that, take a stroll trough your house. The items that were on your to-do list are now hard to miss! This is called the method of loci, also known as the ‘memory palace’.
to do a presentation on some talk show. But other then that, after winning the contest and answering all his questions, he called it quits. Isn’t that similar to David Beckham deciding he wants to be an actor at the pinnacle of his career? ‘Yes, but I’m first and foremost a journalist. Perhaps I could get better at it, but why should I want that? I’ve got all the answers I need. Now it’s time to move on.’ By writing down his experiences, he has spread some kind of virus. Sure, the method of loci is old milk in a new can, but at a time in which the memory has become superfluous it’s still quite a revolutionary wake up call to me. Why store names, songs, films, poetry, pictures and books inside our computer if they actually define the world we’re living in? I mean, if we don’t know who Claudia Schiffer is, it’s hard to picture her in a bath of hüttenkäse.
This mnemonic device derives from ancient Roman rhetorical treatises like the anonymous Rhetorica ad Herennium. Cicero used it quite often to memorise his public speeches. And so did Joshua Foer when he won the US memory championship. Of course he used some new techniques too, which he calls his ‘secret weapons’. But nevertheless, this memory palace is the main trick people have to master if they want to unleash the Rain Man that’s hiding inside their brain.
PHOTO: JERRY BAUER
WAKE UP CALL That, and discipline, of course. What started out as a journalistic experiment for Joshua Foer became an extensive period of practising. Once he reached the ‘okay-level’ (a level that’s hard to beat) he bought himself a pair of black goggles and a headset to shut out the real world that was surrounding him. Although this might sound a lot like social isolation, Foer denies that: ‘I trained half an hour a day and then I would get back to real life.’ Now his skills come in handy at moments in which he has to remember the name of ten strangers at some party, goes shopping and forgets his physical grocery list or has
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Sex and de stad
Confessions of a Prostitute What’s it like to be a working girl? Lauren, an Amsterdam professional, reveals her deepest secrets.
This issue: A Brush with Romance - By Lauren Wissot -
There are as many myths surrounding the typical john as there are about your average hooker. It’s usually women who haven’t worked in the sex industry, or otherwise had any contact with it, that assume the vast majority of guys who pay for pleasure are dirty old men who would be hard pressed to get laid any other way. Not true.
‘The romance was over before it had even begun’ As I’ve stated in previous columns a lot of johns have wives at home and lead financially comfortable enough lives to afford some carnal fun on the side. And while most prostitutes abide by the strict rule of not dating a client, in the true sense of the word, every once in a while – and by that I mean once in a blue moon – I’ll meet a john who makes me think, ‘Wow. I’d sleep with this guy for free!’ FOR ONE NIGHT ONLY g This happened to me several years ago when I met a man I’ll call Daniel Craig. (Only because I have a crush – ok, more like a passionate obsession in the non-stalker sense – on the thuggish movie star.) Daniel was in Amsterdam for only one night, travelling from the States, where he worked as a producer in L.A., to France. As he was staying at a friend’s vacant apartment in the Jordaan I arranged to meet him at Café Nol for a drink. Walking into the
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kitschy bar I didn’t recognise him right away. That is, I didn’t peg him as my client. It’s not an exaggeration to say Daniel was turning heads - both male and female - right and left, with his striking silver screen looks, resembling an older more sober version of Christian Bale. Fortunately, I’d texted that I’d be wearing a canary-yellow hat and matching gloves, thus he was able to spot me as soon as I glided through the door. We had one drink. Then another. Then he asked if I would mind escorting him around the city. THANKS, BUT NO THANKS g So together we took in the charm of Mokum for the next four hours. We wandered through the quiet Westerpark, over to the chaotic Dam, had dinner at an Italian bistro on the Herengracht and headed to De Pijp for coffee and dessert. And the whole time my mind was focused not on euros but on the exact moment when Daniel would sweep me off my aching feet and back to that borrowed flat in the Jordaan. But alas, the romance was over before it had even begun. As we sat on a bench under the stars along the Prinsengracht Daniel gently took my arm and thanked me for such a delightful evening, slipping an envelope of cash into my hand. It was late and he needed to get in a few winks before catching his flight to Nice that morning. Where his French actress wife would be waiting.
made in holland
made in holland
Trap Light By: Allison Guy
Remember those glow-in-the-dark stars you stuck on the ceiling in your childhood bedroom? Eindhovenbased designers Mike Thompson and Gionata Gatto have created a luxe update on those unearthly green stickers in the form of the Trap Light. Using traditional methods from Murano, Italy, glassblowers create lampshades from glass that contains photoluminescent pigments. These special pigments are able to absorb energy and release it as light. While plugged in, the Trap Light acts as beautiful, bubble-infused lamp. When the electricity is off, the lampshade itself transforms into the source of lighting. After 30 minutes of charging with an LED or incandescent light bulb, the Trap Light provides up to eight hours of soft, blue-hued lighting. It’s not enough to light a room, but it will certainly set the mood for your next Earth Day party. With its powder-coated metal cage and blocky shape, the Trap Light wouldn’t look out of place in an industrial setting, though the luminescent pigments give the object a futuristic twist. While it’s debatable how much energy the lamp actually conserves, it’s a clever demonstration that unconventional materials can be used in service of a social message. With the world’s mounting environmental problems, the Trap Light reminds us that it’s worth recycling everything – even light.
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captured
CAPTURED By: Betribes
Loveland is famous for its T-Dansant parties with ‘regulars’ like Axwell, Roog, Fedde Le Grand, Sander Kleinenberg and Sven Väth. This festival, including laser show, carousel, house karaoke and fireworks, is unmissable! Sloterparkbad, Amsterdam
13 August >
Photos: Phuong-Anh Do
Loveland
Voltt Festival
Photos: Sarah MooreÂ
This annual event was the place to be for people who like to party outdoors in summer instead of being locked up in a club. With a mix of rich house, electro and minimal, the passionate party people were treated to a massive line-up. NDSM Amsterdam North
< 27 August
Framebusters
Photos: Guido van der Zanden Â
Dance the night away with resident DJs Raymundo & Frederik Abas Escape Venue, Amsterdam
< 13 august 77
captured
Sensation
Amsterdam Arena, Amsterdam
2 july >
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Photos: Guido van der Zanden Â
The world premiere of Sensation Innerspace took place on Saturday, 2 July in the Amsterdam ArenA. More than 40,000 visitors from across the globe united and entered the world of Innerspace.
captured
Gaasper Pleasure
Photos: Tomas Croon
Annual small-scale budget festival (â&#x201A;Ź15 entrance) at hidden gem Gaasperplas with a pleasant mix of minimal, deep house, tech house and techno. Recreational area Gaasperplas, Amsterdam
< 13 august
Betribes is the biggest party website in the Netherlands. You can find a lot of free tickets, an up to date party calendar and the latest news. Check betribes.com for more info.
upcoming
By: Blair Larkin
/septemberGIGS Thursday 1 Tin Men and the Telephone, Bimhuis Exciting jazz trio which incorporates everyday sounds such as mobile phones and animal sounds into a mix of jazz, hip-hop and Balkan music. 20:30, €18 Thijs Cuppen, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6
Friday 2 Jeff Ballard Trio, Bimhuis Three world-class soloists, all hailing from different continents, bring their musical roots and personal tastes to this trio. 20:30, €22
Saturday 3
Photo: Elza Joe
Amsterdam Fringe Festival The Amsterdam Fringe Festival presents unorthodox theatre and performances from more than 80 national and international artists. Over the course of 11 days the city will host an adventurous mix of classical, experimental and innovative productions giving the public the chance to see performances they are unable to see in traditional mainstream When: 1-11 September theatre. The festival will Where: Various locations take place at 25 locations Admission: Varies throughout the city. amsterdamfringe.nl
Hanggai, Melkweg Chinese band that blends Mongolian folk with modern punk. 21:00, €15 + membership Dimlite & Julian Sartorius, Bimhuis Swiss beat-maker Dimlite is joined on stage by the talented drummer Julian Sartorius. 20:30 John Carrie, Bitterzoet 20:00, €8
Sunday 4 DWDD Recordings, Melkweg Dutch musicians perform covers of songs by U2, Duran Duran and more. 16:00 Dewi’s Jam, Bitterzoet Live acoustic performances from Dewi, Kiki, Maluw, Ferry de Ruijter and All about 5. 20:00, €12.50 Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 14:30, Free Terence Hansen Trio, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 21:00, €6
Monday 5 Primal Scream, Paradiso The Scottish alternative rock band comes to town to play songs from the classic 1991 album, Screamadelica. Support from Little Barrie. 19:30, €29 + membership Junip, Melkweg Dynamic and melodic alternative pop from the Swedish band. 20:30, €18 + membership
Tuesday 6
Photo: Taste of Amsterdam
Taste of amsterdam Taste of Amsterdam brings some of the finest cuisine Amsterdam has to offer to Amstel Park for four days of culinary indulgence. Sample some of the best food and wine from around the world, watch live demonstrations, learn how to make great cocktails and coffee, take a cookery class with When: 22-25 September Michelin-star chefs and make your Where: Amstelpark way around the 60 gourmet food Admission: Varies stands in the food market. This event is a must for serious foodies. tasteofamsterdam.com
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Mac Miller, Melkweg Young American rapper Mac Miller is touring in anticipation of his upcoming album Blue Slide Park. 20:30, €15 + membership Ming’s Pretty Heroes, Paradiso Dutch alternative pop band Ming’s Pretty Heroes celebrate the release of their second album, Karma. 20:00, €8 + membership Miracle Fortress, Paradiso A mix of indie rock and electronica from Canadian Graham van Pelt and his band. 21:30, €8 + membership Broken Fingers Quartet, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6
Wednesday 7 The Family Stone, Melkweg Get ready for a night of classic soul and
funk from the hugely influential band minus frontman Sly Stone. 20:30, €22 + membership Amanda Fucking Palmer, Melkweg Dresden Dolls member Amanda Fucking Palmer takes to the stage for a solo show. Support from The Jane Austen Argument and Jason Webley. 20:00, €16.50 + membership Fata ‘el Moustache’ Morgana, Paradiso An explosive mix of disco, punk, electro, rock and funk from the Amsterdam band. 20:00, €7.50 + membership Maceo Parker, Paradiso Legendary saxophonist best known for his work with James Brown. 20:30, €25 + membership Pablo Ziegler, Bimhuis 20:30, €20 Jose Lopretti, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6
Thursday 8 Beirut, Paradiso A fusion of Eastern European folk and American pop music. 20:30, €22.50 + membership Laura Stevenson, Paradiso Slightly poppy indie rock and folk from the American singer/songwriter. 22:00, €9 + membership Zwart Licht XL, Melkweg The popular Dutch hip-hop group takes to the stage with a live band. 20:30, €10 + membership Soley and Sin Fang, Bitterzoet 19:30, €10 Estafest, Bimhuis 20:30, €18
Friday 9 The Night of the Unexpected, Paradiso Anything could happen at this event which features the likes of Thundercat, Kid Koala, Lean Left and more. 20:30, €17.50 The Secret Sisters, Melkweg Although they’ve only been active as a duo since 2010, these sisters play the kind of country music that sounds like it came out of the 1950s. 21:00, €13 + membership Yuri Honing and Wired Paradise, Bimhuis An evening of electric jazz with the Dutch band. 20:30, €18
Saturday 10 Waters, Paradiso After disbanding his former band, Port O’Brien, Van Pierszalowski has started a new band called Waters, which has more of a raw rock sound. They have just released their debut album Out In The Light. 22:00, €9 + membership The Idan Raichel Project, Melkweg An enchanting blend of African, Latin American, Caribbean and Middle Eastern sounds from the Israeli band. 20:30, €30 + membership The Upsessions, Melkweg The Dutch reggae/ska band presents their third album Below The Belt. 21:00, €12 + membership Sara Serpa, Bimhuis 20:30 €18
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Sunday 11 Matthew and the Atlas, Paradiso British indie folk band complete with banjo, accordion and the scratchy vocals of Matthew Hegarty. 15:30, €12 + membership Megafaun, Paradiso Experimental folk and rock from the American band. 20:00, €10 + membership The War on Drugs, Paradiso The American indie rock band is touring on the back of their new album Slave Ambient. 21:30, €8.50 + membership DWDD Recordings, Melkweg Dutch musicians perform covers of songs by U2, Duran Duran and more. 16:00 Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 14:30, Free
Monday 12 Roachford and Mamas Gun, Melkweg A night of modern British soul and funk with singer Andrew Roachford and five-piece band Mama’s Gun. 20:30, €16 + membership Konrad Koselleck Big Band, Bimhuis 20:30, €18
Tuesday 13 Kitty, Daisy & Lewis, Melkweg This talented trio of siblings from England draws influence from everything from R&B to country to Hawaiian rock and roll. 19:30, €16 + membership Benjamin Winter & The Make Believe, Paradiso American singer/songwriter Benjamin Winter has found a second home in Amsterdam where he formed this band comprising cello, drums, bass, guitars and trumpets. 20:00, €10 + membership Avril Lavigne, Heineken Music Hall The Canadian pop star is touring with her latest album Goodbye Lullaby. 20:00, €36 Leo Bouwmeester, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6
Wednesday 14 The Specials, Paradiso The British ska band that formed back in 1977 is still selling out shows around the world. 20:30, €43.75 + membership The Drums, Paradiso American indie pop band The Drums celebrates the release of new album Portamento. 22:00, €13 + membership Daniel ‘Tato’ de Moraes, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6
Thursday 15 The Specials, Paradiso See Wednesday 14. 20:30, €43.75 + membership Boots Electric, Paradiso Eagles of Death Metal frontman Jesse Hughes takes to the stage for a solo show under his new moniker Boots Electric. 22:15, €15 + membership Cloud Control, Melkweg Australian indie rock/folk band. 20:30, €14 + membership Breathe Carolina, Sugar Factory American electronic rock band. 20:00, €14 Kris Berry, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:30, €8
Friday 16 JP Den Tex, Paradiso Originally from Amsterdam, JP Den Tex bridges the gap between Americana, pop and traditional European genres. 20:00, €10 + membership Pioneers of Love, Paradiso Four-piece new wave band from Leeuwarden. 22:15, €8 + membership
Between the Buried and Me & Animals as Leaders, Sugar Factory A night of heavy metal from the two American bands. 20:00, €15 + membership Maurice Horsthuis’ Elastic Jargon, Bimhuis This eight-piece string orchestra plays a mix of classical, tango, jazz and blues. 20:30, €18
Saturday 17 Peter Broderick, Paradiso Talented multi-instrumentalist who often plays with Danish band Efterklang. 19:00, €9 + membership Fat Cat Tour, Paradiso Featuring We Were Promised Jetpacks, The Twilight Sad and Mazes. 20:00, €12.50 + membership Glen Hansard, Bitterzoet A solo show from the lead singer of Irish group The Frames. 20:00, €15 Bongomatik Jazzbits, Bimhuis Danceable, funky Cuban soul from the nine-piece band. 20:30, €16
Sunday 18 The Dead Trees, Paradiso Experimental indie pop. 20:00, €8.50 + membership Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 14:30, Free
Monday 19 Fat Freddy’s Drop, Melkweg Seven-piece soulful dub band from New Zealand that always puts on a captivating and memorable show. 20:00, €30 + membership Houses & The Secret Love Parade, Paradiso Amsterdam alternative pop band Houses presents its debut album Clean Life. Support from The Secret Love Parade. 19:30, €9 + membership
picnic festival Media, technology, art, design and science converge in this unique three-day festival. The festival gives participants the chance to be inspired by thought leaders from around the globe and participate in workshops, challenges and games. Think of it as When: 14-16 September a conference that is Where: NDSM Wharf not only informative Admission: Three-day ticket: but also entertaining €995. Day ticket: €395 and fun. picnicnetwork.org
Tuesday 20 Fat Freddy’s Drop, Melkweg Seven-piece soulful dub band from New Zealand that always puts on a captivating and memorable show. 20:00, €30 + membership G. Love, Melkweg A mix of hip-hop, soul, blues and pop. 20:30, €20 + membership Gypsy and the Cat, Paradiso Australian alternative pop duo. 19:30, €9 + membership EMA, Paradiso Folk-noise/rock musician whose debut album Past Life Martyred Saints received praise from music critics around the world upon release in May this year. 21:30, €10 + membership Charlotte Haesen Band, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:30, Free
Wednesday 21 Brian Wilson, Paradiso The former Beach Boy takes to the stage to perform songs from his recent George Gershwin tribute album as well as old Beach Boys classics. 20:30, €49.50 + membership Ben Howard, Bitterzoet English singer/songwriter. 20:00, €10 Toon Roos Group, Bimhuis A mix of jazz, latin and funk. 20:30, €18 Ruth Geerse, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, Free
Thursday 22 Quit Your Dayjob, Paradiso Raw electro punk from the Swedish band. 20:30, €9 + membership
Photo: Carre
Havana Rakatan This West End show is a spectacular mix of salsa, mamba, jazz, bolero, cha-cha-cha and rumba. Expect to see a host of sexy dancers in bright, captivating costumes demonstrating their fancy footwork to the music of the wonderful eightWhen: 31 August - 3 September piece Cuban band Where: Theatre Carré Turquino. Admission: From €18 to €38 theatercarre.nl
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Photo: Anne Fishbein
David Sedaris at Carré Famed phenomenon David Sedaris from the United States is coming to our quaint shores. The radio contributor, comedian and writer extraordinaire will be gracing Carré with his presence on 25 September When: 25 September for a night of self-deprecating Where: Theatre Carré humor ranging from issues with Admission: €17 to €39 a middle class upbringing to theatercarre.nl drugs and homosexuality.
MCN Unsigned: Homegrown ‘11, Melkweg Seven up-and-coming unsigned hip-hop acts get the chance to win some new fans. 20:00, €7.50 + membership Dry the River, Bitterzoet 20:00, €11 The More Socially Relevant Jazz Music Ensemble, Bimhuis 20:30, €16 BATIK, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:30, €10
Friday 23 Shapeshifter, Melkweg Live drum ‘n’ bass band that incorporates dub, jazz, funk and hip-hop into their music. Expect a powerful and energetic show. 20:00, €15 + membership The Medics, Paradiso The indie rock band from Utrecht celebrates the release of debut album Dance Into The Dark. 20:00, €9 + membership The Duke Spirit, Paradiso Elements of blues-rock, post-punk and noise-rock can all be heard in the music of this English band. 22:00, €10 + membership Esmerine, Bitterzoet Experimental instrumental music made from percussion, cello and marimba. 20:00, €12 Chicco & Barend Middelhoff Trio, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 21:30, €8
Saturday 24 Onderhonden, Melkweg Dutch hip-hop project that was formed back in 1997. 20:00, €15 + membership Katia, Paradiso The Dutch singer/songwriter presents her debut album. 20:00, €7.50 + membership Sarah Lee Guthrie & Johnny Irion, Paradiso Acoustic duo whose music is influenced by rock, blues, country and folk. 21:30, €10 + membership Ganglians, Bitterzoet Lo-fi psychedelic pop. 20:00, €12 XLJAZZ, Bimhuis Jazz orchestra led by Martin Fondse. 20:30, €20
Sunday 25
Photo: Noorderpark Fest
Noorderpark Festival The Noorderpark, situated in central Amsterdam-Noord on the banks of the Noordhollandsch canal, is the perfect location for this festival for all ages. The two-day festival kicks off in the evening on Saturday the 10th with a big fireworks display followed by a show from local hip-hop acts. On Sunday there will be an eclectic collection of bands playing as well as live poetry, storytelling and a poetry-writing workshop. When: 10-11 September Entertainment for the young Where: Noorderpark ones is provided by two Admission: Free children’s play areas and a noorderparkfestival.nl children’s flea market.
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Otis Gibbs, Paradiso Country-rock and folk that often touches on political and social issues. 19:30, €9 + membership Son Palenque, Bimhuis Afro-Colombian band that plays champeta a cross between afrobeat, psychedelic rock and Colombian rhythms. 20:30, €18 Fra Fra Sound & Madjid Bekkas Trio, Tropentheater Afro-Caribbean grooves meets desert blues. 15:00, €21 Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 14:30, Free
Monday 26 Jenny Lane, Paradiso Powerful, soulful pop music. 20:00, €12.50 + membership Matt McHugh, Bitterzoet A solo show from the lead singer of
Australian roots band The Beautiful Girls. 20:00, €11 David Kweksilber Big Band, Bimhuis 20:30, €20
Tuesday 27 Boom Bip, Paradiso Producer Boom Bip experiments with many genres but is known for his electronic and hip-hop productions. He’s joined on stage by a four-piece band. 19:00, €10 + membership Within Temptation, Paradiso Dutch symphonic metal group that has become well known throughout Europe over the last decade. 19:30, €25 + membership Ellwood, Melkweg Funky and punky reggae from the new group of Mad Caddies lead singer Chuck Robertson. 21:00, €12 + membership Pusha T, Bitterzoet A solo show from member of the rap duo Clipse. 20:00, €12
Wednesday 28 Black Joe Lewis & The Honeybears, Paradiso New soul and blues band influenced by James Brown and Howlin’ Wolf. 19:00, €12 + membership Within Temptation, Paradiso Dutch symphonic metal group who have become well known throughout Europe over the last decade. 19:30, €25 + membership Love Inks, Paradiso Minimalist indie pop band. 21:30, €9 + membership Blessthefall, Pierce the Veil, Motionless in White, Melkweg A night of post-hardcore and metalcore. 20:00, €16 + membership Guillemots, Bitterzoet British indie rock band known for varied live performances. 20:00, €13 The John Scofield R&B Quartet, Bimhuis 20:30, €32
Thursday 29 Gregory Page and A.J. Croce, Paradiso Expect a mix of jazz, boogie woogie and pop from these two singer/songwriters. 19:30, €16 + membership Jamie Woon, Melkweg R&B and soul with a hint of dubstep. 21:00, €14 + membership Shabazz Palaces, Sugar Factory Experimental hip-hop group led by Butterfly of Digable Planets. 20:30, €15 Trio Braamdejoodevatcher, Bimhuis 20:30, €18 Amsterdam Saints, (Concert Hall) 21:30, Free
Friday 30 Please!, Paradiso Poppy sounding hip-hop with live instrumentals. 21:00, €7 + membership Gaslamp Killer, Melkweg A mix of experimental hip-hop, electronic and jazz from the LA based producer. 22:00, €17 + membership Tony Malaby’s Tamarindo, Bimhuis An evening of free-form jazz from three extremely talented musicians. 20:30, €20