€4.95
Yes, I’m free!
beyond windmills, wooden shoes and weed
m a g a z i n e
PUB CRAWL! THE BEST BROWN BARS
Halloween JOIN THE PARTY
Duncan Stutterheim CELEBRATES LIFE
Get your bleep on! AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT
And: Wet your whistle, Pimp My Bike, Museum Check, Confessions, Fashion, Made in Holland, Upcoming and more...
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Get you bleep on
16 19 23 68 52 32 38 37 63 68 74 71
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42 75 56 64 7 8 11
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FEATURED AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT
19 54 76 80
INTERVIEW
MEET THE DUTCH: Duncan ‘Sensation’ Stutterheim STREET STYLE: Here’s where Simone, N’Ketia and Patty shop! UNLOCKING THE CITY: Design style! ELBOW: From boys to men
REPORTAGE
KNOCK KNOCK: Cargo boat living PIMP MY BIKE: Punk! BROWN BARS: The best in town
REVIEWED
AMSTERDAM EATS: De Compagnon MUSEUM CHECK: Bijbels museum WET YOUR WHISTLE: De vergulde gaper
COLUMN
SEX AND DE STAD: Too many to tango FRAMED: By Thomas Schlijper
FASHION
JOAN OF DAM
ART & DESIGN
MADE IN HOLLAND: Vondel verses EXPO: Murray’s world
THE GUIDE DUTCH A-Z
THE REGULAR
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR GET SOCIAL! HEADS-UP: News from the city
MORE...
DUTCH TREAT: Zuurkool THE TEN: Best ways to celecbrate halloween CAPTURED: What you missed last month UPCOMING: Events that mustn’t be missed
54 5
LETTER
With 50,000 copies distributed each month, Amsterdam Magazine is the largest free English-language magazine in the Netherlands. Amsterdam Magazine is distributed at hundreds of locations in Amsterdam including many hotels, popular tourist attractions, restaurants, bars and shops. For those on their way home or just passing through Amsterdam with a connecting flight, we are freely available at all four Schiphol airport lounges. Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly by: Amsterdam Magazine BV Herengracht 423 - sous 1017 BR Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 (0)20 8461690 info@amsterdam-magazine.com www.amsterdam-magazine.com twitter: amsterdammag facebook: amsterdammagazine Publishers: Linda Korver Wouter Wijtenburg Cees van der Steenstraten Editor in Chief: Mathilde Hoekstra mathilde@amsterdam-magazine.com Art Director: Linda Korver linda@amsterdam-magazine.com Proofreader: Johanna Thornton proof@amsterdam-magazine.com Sales and Account Executive: Kris Soehawan kris@amsterdam-magazine.com +31 (0)6 30554599 Editorial Staff: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com
Letter from the Editor
Being there What can you do better in autumnal Amsterdam, than a pub crawl with friends? I did it once. We went to hotel lobbies and pretended that we were tourists in our own town. Krasnapolsky on Dam Square, The Dylan at Keizersgracht, the Americain at Leidse square, The Pulitzer: it was an expensive, yet memorable night. Since you’re a visitor to Amsterdam and there’s not much to pretend, perhaps a tour around the old taverns is more fun. We call them bruin café because the walls are stained with cigarette smoke. Nowadays most of these bars have gotten rid of the carpets on their tables and the coffee has gotten better too, but other than that, don’t expect anything fancy. Nobody cares how you look, what kind of job you do or how many famous people you know. It’s all about being there. Nothing more, nothing less.
Tim Hilhorst tim@amsterdam-magazine.com
In some brown cafes there’s no music: perfect for a game of cards. In others there’s
Design: Nicky Falkenberg nicky@amsterdam-magazine.com
sand on the floor. Back in the day people chewed tobacco and eventually they would
Fashion Director: Tommy Hagen fashion@amsterdam-magazine.com
could just wipe out the sand, along with all the other junk. Nowadays the sand is just
We’re open to any kind of internships! Email your request to linda@amsterdam-magazine.com Contributors Nicola Bozzi, Tracey Forbes, Caroline Goralczyk, Allison Guy, Brandon Hartley, Tommy Hagen, Mike Peek, Thomas Schlijper, Arun Sood, Marieke Verhoeven, Lauren Wissot Special thanks to Sara & Bert van Bushbach, Ryan Cooper, Ellen van Exter, Future Faces, Lily Java, Julia, Richard Jupp, Dirk Kikstra, Angela Kooij, Inge de Lange, Matthew Murray, Didi van Rijssen, John Selbing, Duncan Stutterheim, Addie Vassie, Anouk Vogel Advertise with us! To find out on how you can get your message across to 100,000 international tourists each month, reach us by email at: sales@amsterdam-magazine.com or call our office on: +31 (0)20 8461690. Want to become a distributor? Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly (50,000 free copies). To discuss becoming one of our exclusive distribution locations, please contact us at info@ amsterdam-magazine.com.
spit it out onto the floor. Sand would prevent stains and after closing time the waiter a reminder of how things used to be, especially since it’s forbidden to smoke inside. Compare it with other nostalgic things like cork in a bottle of wine or a creaking record: it’s purely sentimental. In this issue we reveal the ten best-kept secrets in Amsterdam (page xx). And while we’re at it, I have two more places you should visit: the first one is Cafeé Loetje in the Museum Quarter. What was once more a café than a restaurant is now home to the best steak ever. Keep in mind that waiting time is long though. The secret isn’t that well preserved. Once you have a good foundation in your stomach it’s time to hit the road. Make sure you end your pub crawl at Café Brandon, especially if you don’t like to smoke your cigarette outside.
Distributed for free in the Netherlands Recycle this magazine by passing it on! PRINTED ON FSC PAPER --------------------------------------------------------© Amsterdam Magazine B.V. 2011
Mathilde Hoekstra, Editor in Chief
Amsterdam Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Amsterdam Magazine or its publishers. Amsterdam Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content. ---------------------------------------------------------
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SOCIAL MEDIA
GET SOCIAL!
& WIN!
When we’re not busy making funky fresh magazines, we like to get social with our readers online. Besides chatting, gossiping, debating and flirting, we also like to give away prizes. Join our Facebook or Twitter page to get hold of any of these great giveaways!
FANCY A NIGHT ON THE TOWN? Cookie Club
Club Air, Amsterdam 27 October 2011 * 4 VIP Tickets to the event * A VIP table + bottle of your choice * A dinner for two in the dark at ctaste
HOW TO WIN? FIND OUT ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER!
TWITTER.COM
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Patrickabbott: @amsterdammag As an Amsterdam newbie... Youp van ‘t Hek and Job Cohen could open my eyes to their city perfectly Tarianam: @amsterdammag These are the kinds of days we’re reminded why Amsterdam is the greatest city on earth! Alliwayhonolulu: Yes it is! I think i’ll biking today RT @ amsterdammag: The sun is shining! Ian Howell: Wish I was there, and in the Vondelpark Lesli Maffia: I just moved here- Herengracht Loft! I Love AMSTERDAM! Clarita Ziniti Gatto: Morning beautiful town. Prik Bar > ‘One of the more chilled lounges in the city.’ 4√ Mediamatic > ‘Mediamatic on the Vijzelstraat is the only renowned exhibition space with real balls; the Stedelijk Museum could learn a thing or two from them.’ 2 √
A la Ferme: ‘The Iberico pork is one of the nicest things I’ve had in my time here.’ -Lovefood 4 √
Heads-up news from the city
BY: TIM HILHORST
Amsterdam in top 5 cleanest air
Amsterdam belongs to the top five cities in Europe with the cleanest air, according to a report by the European Environmental Bureau. After comparing the air quality in 25 major cities the research body found that Berlin, Stockholm and Copenhagen are the most effective in reducing air pollution; Rome, Milan and Dusseldorf are the worst. Amsterdam scored particularly well in terms of clean cars and ease of public transport. The positive results unfortunately don’t change the fact that Amsterdam still needs to take serious action against a number of busy roads and the air pollution they’re causing. Brussels could interfere and shut down building projects in the city if it doesn’t meet 2015 demands. Source: ad.nl
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Amsterdam
Most expensive hotels
An average increase of four per cent for hotel rooms in the Netherlands has made it the most expensive city for visitors in the Eurozone, according to the Hotel Price Index by hotels.com. The average price for a hotel room in the Netherlands amounted to €110 per night. Amsterdam is the most expensive city in the country with an average of €124 per night; up eight per cent. The increase is caused by the increase in visitors to the city. Italy has the second most expensive hotels in the Eurozone. In worldwide rankings the Netherlands is ranked 13th and Switzerland, Brazil and Israel are the top three most expensive hotel cities respectively. Source: parool
Merkur Casino to reopen
Rembrantplein’s old Merkur Casino has shed its skin, picked up and moved across Amsterdam to resettle in the Reguliersbreestraat. On 19 September the casino in the monumental Cineac building saw its grand opening to press and invitees. Not only has the casino moved location, it is also larger and offers a more versatile variety of games. The casino, which has four other locations in the Netherlands, will have 750m2 of playing room and enough spots to hold 185 players simultaneously. Preparations for the move started about three years ago, the renovations, including those making the exterior look like the original building, took about seven months. Source: merkur
magazine
The Hard Stuff
Snorting, popping, and shooting; if it were up to lefty party Groenlinks it would soon be legal to do hard drugs in Amsterdam. ‘A calm drug user doesn’t cause any trouble, is not a criminal and doesn’t deserve punishment,’ says spokesperson for Groenlinks Marco de Goede. The party believes it’s the nuisance and costs caused by substance abuse like drink driving and theft that need to be taken into consideration when looking at the law. The only way legalisation would work is if it were adopted nationally, there was adequate financing for the care of addicts and proper education about quality and quantity. The likelihood of this ever happening is slim to none. Source: AT5.nl
HEADS-UP
Sparkling Amsterdam
Ours the bike friendliest city
From sparkling diamonds to sparkling water and a stunning collection at the Hermitage Museum, Gassan Diamonds is offering tourists the opportunity to experience some of Amsterdam’s best-hidden gems. The ₏25 tour would start at Gassan where people can see the insand-outs of an age-old Amsterdam trade, followed by a boat ride through the canals. The cruise will drop participants off at the Hermitage Museum to enjoy paintings by Antwerp School giants Rubens, Van Dyck and Jordaens. The tour, which is on until 1 November, will include running audio commentary.
Amsterdam received the highest score in a survey indexing the most bike friendly cities in the world. According to a Danish consultancy agency Amsterdam is the most accommodating to cyclists out of about 80 large cities. The Danish company originally intended to use its results internally, but soon found the results might be interesting to a much larger audience. Thirteen different criteria were applied to every city, like security, infrastructure, cycle culture and social acceptance. From a total of 60 points Amsterdam scored 54 followed closely by Copenhagen. Surprising high scorers included Montreal, Guadalajara, Rio, New York and Dublin.
Source: gassan
Source: depers.nl
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Heads-up news from the city
Sex shops shut sooner
Many sex shops in the world’s most famous Red Light District are not sticking to new rules about closing times. From the first of last month sex shops in ‘de Wallen’ must close at 10PM instead of 2AM. The nuisance caused by the shops is to blame for the time change. Many shopkeepers do not agree with the rule, or the fact that their shops are causing any trouble. The shop owners are keeping their stores open in the hopes of eliciting another court case to try their luck at fighting the ruling once again. Source: parool
‘58 coffeeshops must close’ Nine per cent of all coffeeshops must close, according to findings by the Central Bureau of Statistics. The Dutch coalition decided coffeeshops have to be at least 350 metres from any school. Of the more than 650 coffeeshops in the Netherlands, 58 are still within this distance. A third of these coffeeshops are in Amsterdam. Schools and coffeeshops are a bad combination says minister of education Marja van Bijsterveldt. ‘This cabinet does not want the education of students to go up in smoke,’ she said. Source: ad.nl
Big brother Amsterdam
All cars driving into Amsterdam on major roads like the A10 will have their license plates scanned and checked for unpaid fines and other crimes, according to a spokesperson for the Amsterdam-Amstelland Police. Following a report by Het Parool, the police released a statement saying it would use the cameras currently in place to check on polluted trucks and freight transport to monitor normal traffic. Research into the matter revealed it was legal to use ANPR files for this purpose. The police will be able to quickly apprehend suspects and defaulters in the future.
Amsterdam annoyance app Stumbled on a street tile, lights in your street go out or the garbage containers full again? No need to fret because there’s an app for that. Opgeruimd (trans. ‘Cleaned Up’) provides you with different categories of public nuisances and all you have to do is select the right one, take a picture, send it off and Amsterdam will do the rest. The app designed by ITcompany Logica has received quite a lot of criticism from the public because taxpayer euros were spent on an app that already existed in the form of Verbeterdebuurt, BuitenBeter and Burger Connect. Source:iphoneclub.nl
Source: nu.nl
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DUTCH TREAT
DUTCH TREAT
Zuurkool BY: ALLISON GUY
You may have already sampled some Dutch treats. If you’re brave you might have even tried a kroket or salty liquorice. But what about zuurkool?
ZUURKOOL Some store-bought brands of sauerkraut are little more than cabbage doused in salt and vinegar. Fermenting cabbage at home might be a long process, but it’s as simple as buying the ingredients and waiting. In the end, you’ll have a delicious dish that would make a Dutch grandma proud.
T
hough it’s more closely associated with German cuisine, zuurkool, as the Dutch call sauerkraut, is a popular condiment on this side of the nations’ borders. In the Netherlands, sauerkraut is commonly eaten mixed with stamppot, a famous Dutch dish of mashed potatoes and any veggie that comes to hand. Similar to the way Germans enjoy it, zuurkool can also be served with a side of smoked sausage called rookworst. GENGHIS KHAN Many Dutch families own a special stoneware pot specifically dedicated to brewing up a batch of sauerkraut at home. For those not adventurous enough to make their own, the Netherlands produces 24 million kilos each year of the store-bought stuff. Though pickled cabbage has only become part of the Dutch diet in the last few hundred years, the history of sauerkraut goes back nearly two millennium. The Chinese learned to ferment cabbage sometime in the 2nd century, and made it a mainstay for labourers piecing together the Great Wall. Genghis Khan is rumoured to have introduced this culinary innovation to Eastern Europe in the 13th century. Zuurkool contains high levels of vitamin C, which lead sailors to cart barrels of fermented
INGREDIENTS:
S TRY THI ! AT H O M E
cabbage aboard to prevent scurvy. Zuurkool was a vital dish during the Netherlands’ Golden Age, helping to keep seamen robust enough to maintain the country’s overseas empire. British explorer Captain Cook stocked sauerkraut on his voyages to Hawaii and Australia. One barrel was still edible after 12 months at sea! Though scurvy isn’t much of a concern nowadays, zuurkool fans still hold that it’s one of the healthiest foods around. It has more of the friendly bacteria Lactobacillus than yoghurt, and the fermentation process produces compounds that might help protect against cancer. Tasty, historical and healthy, the only drawback to zuurkool might be a case of stinky breath!
• 2.3kgs green or red cabbage, shredded • 3tbsp (50ml) sea salt • Optional: A generous pinch of herbs, such as juniper or caraway • Special equipment • A ceramic crock or pot, or a foodgrade plastic bucket • A heavy weight to press the cabbage, such as a scrubbed and boiled rock Wash your hands and carefully clean any object that will come in contact with the sauerkraut. Thoroughly mix all of the ingredients. Pack the cabbage into the crock one handful at a time, packing each layer as tightly as possible. Place a cover, plate, or plastic bag filled with water on top of the cabbage, and weigh it down with the heavy object. Check the cabbage every day for two weeks, pressing the cabbage to keep it below the brine, and skimming off any scum that forms on top. The zuurkool is ready anytime between two and four weeks. When the taste and texture are to your liking, store it in the refrigerator.
Eet smakelijk (Bon appétit!) 15
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MEET THE DUTCH
CELEBRATING LIFE Back in the 1990s he organised parties with his brother Miles Stutterheim, who died tragically at the age of 24 in a car accident. Now, 11 years later, Duncan Stutterheim, 40, is still going strong with Sensation. What’s his secret? Find out in this intimate tête à tête. By: Caroline Goralczyk
S
ensation fans come in their thousands, eager to dance the night away when famed DJs such as Armin van Buuren, Tiesto, Paul van Dyk or David Guetta turn the tables. Once these masses gather in venues like a stadium it’s an obvious sensation, but why is it held in white? ‘To celebrate life’, Duncan Stutterheim explains. In remembrance of his brother, who was part of the Sensation project from the very beginning and passed away in a car accident in 2000, the event changed from being just a massive party to a tribute to life. Back then, Duncan Stutterheim faced hard times, but never thought of quitting. ‘I took a long break to travel to India and get away from it all,’ he says, ‘after that, I changed the event.’ He added a significant new detail to Sensation that is still providing for a full house of followers: since his brother’s funeral was held in white, the event got a new white dress code in commemoration.
sales went through the roof with more than 12,000 people attending their first events. And this was back in the 1990s, when there was no such thing as Facebook to promote events. Was it just as simple as that, a dream coming true? ‘It was hard work,’ says Duncan, ‘we were promoting like crazy, doing everything ourselves, spraying graffiti on walls and handing out flyers, posters and stickers all day, every day. At some point people started talking about it and all of a sudden our friends showed up with their friends and their friends brought friends as well. It was all about word of mouth.’
‘It was a tightrope between making money and dealing with my loss’
A success It all started with a graduation party in Utrecht in 1992, organised by Duncan, his brother and two of their friends, all founders of the event firm ID&T. Young, party loving and driven by their passion for trance and electronic music, their dream was to do what they loved the most: organise dance events for vibrant crowds. With a little pocket money given to them by Duncan’s father, their smallscale initiative soon exploded. Tickets
Duncan has experienced remarkable revenue from this business for more than 20 years. He was named the youngest millionaire in the Netherlands at the age of 25 and has lived in impressive locations such as Australia and recently the USA with his wife and two little daughters. His secret? ‘A lot of people organise parties, but Sensation is something else. It’s out of scale.’ However, considering Sensation fans are more than willing to pay €70 for
their night in white, this success hasn’t come out of the blue. It’s an expensive business for fans, but as they eagerly follow the event’s motto: ‘Be part of the night – dress in white’, their attendance in the thousands makes the cash tills ring.
Worldwide white-out First held in 2001 at the Amsterdam Arena, Sensation has now grown into an international project held in many countries. Usually taking place in football arenas and congress venues spacious enough for thousands of people, the event attracts crowds from Russia, Australia, Germany, Chile, Brazil, Poland, Spain, the UK and of course the Netherlands. ‘Partying connects people on a global scale, regardless of their cultural background. At some point in the night they all go crazy, no matter where they’re from,’ says Duncan. Even though there are other major parties organised in those countries, Sensation appears to be unique and in particular, a goldmine of marketing. Looking at Duncan’s career in the entertainment industry, his path appears to follow a secret formula for success. According to him, that means no more than daring to be different. ‘It’s always about doing things that other people don’t do. And of course, a little bit of luck.’ For Stutterheim, Sensation is not only a story of luck and a marketing strategy that struck gold. It was a tightrope between making cash with partying and dealing with a personal tragedy.
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STREET STYLE
FANCY T HAT!
Let’s fa ce for the it, the Dutch a ir fashi r on sens en’t famous three e e. Here xceptio are ns to th e rule. by: tim hilh
orst Photog raphy: S arah
Moore
ECLECTIC FUNK
N’ketia (28)
OUTFIT: Shoes: Mum gave them to me Pants: Urban Outfitters (London) Blouse: H&M Watch: Komono (online) Bag: H&M Glasses: H&M Scarf: Dappermarkt (Dappermarket) WHAT’S THE STYLE YOU’RE GOING FOR? I have a bunch of different styles. Sometimes I slum it and just wear everyday stuff with sneakers. It really depends on the weather and what I’m going to be doing that day. WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE BRAND AT THE MOMENT? Do you know Kiboots? It’s this new boot company (pointing at her friend’s shoes). They don’t have a store yet; just an online portal, but there will be one soon on the Utrechtsestraat. They’re really hot right now.’ WHAT WOULD YOU WEAR TO THE OSCARS? I think I would pull out all the stops and have something made. I don’t have money to spend on designer dresses, but I would want something really special.
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PRETTY IN PINK
Simone (17)
OUTFIT: Shoes: H&M Blouse: Zara Skirt: Zara Glasses: Ray Ban WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER FASHIONABLE AT THE MOMENT? I think the hippie thing is kind of overdone nowadays. I used to like vintage too, but I think that’s also kind of passé now. I really like colour, but not too much. I like to combine bright colours with a bit of beige, black and clean lines. AND YOUR FAVORITE COLOUR IS HOT PINK? (Laughing) No, my favourite colour is red. ARE THERE ANY TRENDS OR STYLES YOU ADOPTED THAT YOU NOW REGRET? Well there was this label called pa:nuu (People Are Not Usually Useless). It was all about really bright colours. Kind of dumb, but I liked it at the time. IS THERE A SHOP IN AMSTERDAM YOU WOULDN’T WANT TO BE FOUND DEAD IN? Yes, I really don’t like Scotch and Soda - it’s just not my style. I can’t combine any of it and I can’t imagine wearing it.
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STREET STYLE
BOHEMIAN CASUAL
Patty (24)
OUTFIT: Dress: Zara Shoes: Cosmetic Cowboys Bag: Gucci Bracelets: Ibiza WHAT’S THAT ‘BAN THE BOMB’ THING AROUND YOUR WRIST ALL ABOUT, ARE YOU INTO THE HIPPIE THING? Yeah, I really like hippie style and it’s definitely part of my everyday look. I also like rock, sixties, colour blocking and seventies chic. WHERE DO YOU LIKE TO SPEND YOUR DOUGH IN A’DAM? The Nine Streets are really great, with special attention to LouLou. They have very nice pieces you don’t really find anywhere else. IF YOU ONLY HAD 50 EUROS AND YOU HAD TO PUT TOGETHER AN ENTIRE OUTFIT WHERE WOULD YOU GO? I would go to H&M and get a little black dress with eye-catching lace tights and finish the outfit with a really big necklace or a huge ring.
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UNLOCKING THE CITY
Design
unlocking the city
Style!
Allow our clued-up dam dwellers to help you unlock this city! In this issue, interior architect and curator Janwillem Sanderse gives us the inside scoop on design in Amsterdam. By: Sarah Moore
Janwillem Sanderse [34] OWNER OF STORE WITHOUT A HOME STOREWITHOUTAHOME.YOKABOO.COM
How do you compare design in Amsterdam to other cities? I actually get my inspiration from the Saint Germain area in Paris. They really focus on the applied arts there and take great effort to promote it. You can find stores focused specifically on beautifully designed tables. They take the time to perfect one thing. At the moment Amsterdam seems to be more focused on fashion and leisure, but interior design and applied arts are starting to pop up here and there.
At the moment it’s all white and is taking a really interesting shape with a great view on the Northern bank of the IJ River.
What are the best festivals and events in the city to see the latest in design? The biggest festival in Amsterdam is Inside Design run by Elle Decoration magazine. It features the latest in interior design labels both by renowned and emerging designers. There is also the Woonbeurs, which is a more commercial design fair held annually showcasing internationally acclaimed Dutch design.
Which neighbourhood is known for the best design finds? I like to spend my Sundays on KNSM Island on the IJ in East Amsterdam. There you can find design shops such as Pols Potten, a brand focused on interior accessories like ceramics and small furniture. Next to it is Keet in House, a fun children’s fashion and furniture boutique. There are also several galleries and nice cafes with terraces overlooking the water. It’s a great place see beautiful design and be inspired.
What about architectural and public design around the city? You miss a lot on the bike so you have to walk to really see the city. I think Prinseneiland behind the Haarlemmerbuurt is a beautiful little neighbourhood. It’s mostly residential, but you can see a fun hybrid of contemporary designs next to historical canal houses. The new Eye Film Institute is also really amazing. It’s great to periodically check out the construction process.
What are your favourite design boutiques? Restored is a great design shop that features fashion and interior accessories from young designers. Specifically for Dutch design there is Droog, which is more of an exhibition of the latest design works on a high end scale. For more accessible design, The Frozen Fountain is a great interior design boutique with beautiful furniture and accessories.
Store Without a Home is a hybrid gallery and design boutique that represents emerging designers and artists as well as international brands.
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BLEEPS AND BITS AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT
THE AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT (OCTOBER 19-22) IS A MUST FOR EVERYONE WHO MAKES OR ENJOYS ELECTRONIC DANCE MUSIC. IT’S THE WORLD’S LEADING CONFERENCE DURING OFFICE HOURS AND THE WORLD’S BIGGEST CLUB FESTIVAL AT NIGHT. BE THERE OR BE [ ]. By: Mike Peek
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PHOTO: TONY PEREZ
FEATURED
B
ack in 1996, the only electronic dance music (EDM) event that mattered was the Winter Music Conference in Miami. That year Buma Cultuur, an organisation concerned with promoting Dutch music, set out to create a European meeting place for artists and producers. In those days people still paid for music in record stores and discovering tomorrow’s smash hit was big business. During the first Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE) around 300 industry members attended the conference and a few thousand people partied the night away in a handful of clubs.
why they looked so silly, I was almost stared to death. They were ‘Gabbers’ now and far too cool to speak with mere mortals like me. Every weekend these Gabbers went to hardcore parties ‘om uit hun plaatje te gaan’ (to party hardy), sometimes popping ecstasy to enhance the experience.
Record sales have gone down the drain since then, but electronic music is more popular than ever. This year, the ADE welcomes 3,000 DJs, talent scouts and other professionals. A whopping 130,000 visitors are expected to visit the night festival, which takes place at over 50 venues all across the city. Yeah, it’s big all right.
Electronic dance music is still seen as a niche culture
A GENRE IS BORN
The holy grail of electronic dance music is older than you might think: the first synthesiser was invented in 1876. But although many composers saw its potential and some predicted these machines would change music forever, it took quite a while for the revolution to kick in. Advanced and affordable synthesisers only hit the market in the late 1960s. They created a snowball effect. Popular bands like The Rolling Stones and The Beatles employed electronic instruments to add to their sound and new musical genres like punk rock and synthpop arose in the following decade. The German band Kraftwerk was especially influential because it used electronic sounds as the basis of its songs, not just as a part of the instrumentation. The Godmother of electronic dance music, House, first popped up in the early 1980s in Chicago nightlife and was more or less synonymous with EDM for a while. It came to Europe in the late 1980s and owned the 1990s, especially in the Netherlands. Hardcore House, an extreme sub style with a gazillion beats per minute, even matured here. I remember looking around in class one day and seeing several guys I had known for years with their heads shaved. They were wearing Australian tracksuits and bomber jackets. When I asked them
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Although I didn’t really fit in with the accompanying youth culture, I liked the music. I kept listening to Hardcore House long after it went out of fashion around 1997.
A NICHE CULTURE COMES OF AGE
It can be difficult to really grasp EDM, since the term is vague and ever-evolving. The many styles and sub-styles don’t help either. Even if you know Techno, Trance, Hardstyle and Breakbeat are some of the major trends within electronic dance music, pin-pointing their exact definition is another story. Perhaps that helps to explain why electronic dance music is still seen as a niche culture by most people. It’s not really, because danceable computer beats are very much a part of our everyday lives. The music in that funky commercial? That incredible movie soundtrack? Probably EDM or at least heavily influenced by it. You can’t really blame the naysayers though. After the zenith of House, EDM more or less dropped off the radar again and most mainstream media all but ignored it until a few years ago. A lot of major record companies missed the boat as well, moving artists to create their own labels and platforms. EDM might thus be the biggest underground movement on the planet. And a very significant one. Without sounding too melodramatic, you could even say EDM embodies a shift in how we think about music. DJs seemed to realise before others that the heyday of ‘selling’ music was over and focused much more on live performances than making records. Often relatively young, they also took great advantage of new technologies to produce and promote their art.
PHOTO: AICO LIND
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PHOTO: AICO LIND
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FEATURED
BREAKING BOUNDARIES
WELCOME HOME
The rise of electronic dance music is closely linked to the rise of personal computers. That’s no coincidence. Ignored by the industry, electronic musicians had to take matters into their own hands. Software engineers met their needs as soon as they could by developing programs that rendered expensive recording studios superfluous. Today, every 15 year old with a laptop can produce electronic music and distribute it on YouTube. If he’s any good, the online community will push him to keep going.
When the ADE started 15 years ago, some DJs were willing to spin their tables in return for a record voucher. Those days are over. The dance music industry has turned professional with the top dogs able to command five-figure salaries for a single performance. But the event’s mission hasn’t changed. It’s still a meeting place for both established and upcoming artists, producers, record labels, booking agents and other professionals. Though the ADE expanded exponentially over the years, it diversified at the same
It’s a language ‘spoken’ by people all over the planet Because EDM often lacks vocals, it’s a language ‘spoken’ by people all over the planet. The internet brings them together. Websites, forums and especially social media allow artists to interact directly with their audience, breaking the traditional boundary between producer and consumer. They even switch roles sometimes as electronic dance music is constantly mixed and remixed to the point where its ‘origin’ is hard to trace. Some argue that the relative lack of commercialisation in its formative years allowed EDM to flourish artistically. Experiments make the scene what it is. That not only goes for the music, but for the context of performances well. Sure, it’s nice if a DJ is actually at the club where he is playing, but it’s not absolutely necessary. His or her physical presence is less important than that of a singer communicating with words. So why not do a show via (there it is again) the internet? A DJ can be in their own home, pumping their beats through cyberspace and waving at the dancing crowd in his webcam. Mix it with comedy and it becomes performance art. Get out your smartphone and take a look at this wicked video:
(Parental advisory recommended!)
time. Now there’s a wide array of debates and showcases on offer reflecting the current state of EDM and predicting its future. What’s perhaps most important: with some 60 nationalities and hundreds of journalists attending, it’s the perfect opportunity to promote your work. There’s more to it than business, however. The festival offers DJs a chance to catch up with one another. Most of them lead a very hectic life and rarely get the opportunity to meet old or new friends. Just about everyone who matters attends and performs at the event, even those who can make far more money elsewhere. In other words: the ADE is a home away from home for the electronic scene. Right here in Amsterdam. DANCE CAPITAL
I think we can all agree that Amsterdam is a great city. But it’s not a very big one. So how did a metropolitan village become the capital of dance? There are several reasons. The Dutch mercantile spirit definitely helped. In the 17th century our tiny country was one of the top players in the world economy. Sure, we slid back a little, but that business mentality is still intact. The ADE deliberately set out to create an international platform and joined hands with both commercial parties and the authorities to make it happen. The festival promised to give Amsterdam’s nightlife a considerable boost, increase international media attention and bring more tourists to the city. They got goodwill and money in return. Recently, the Ministry of Economics supported the ADE in setting up a trade
mission with Brazil, which spawns a lot of new talent in the dance scene. Such onetime investments often create flywheel effects: if the collaboration proves fruitful for both parties, they will work together again in the future. Cold hard cash is not the only factor though. We have long been a European test market for new music initiatives. Like I mentioned earlier, Hardcore House grew up here. That was no coincidence. If some up-and-coming British band is looking to expand its horizons, its record label might suggest starting with the Dutchies. Success (or lack thereof) in the Netherlands is usually a pretty good indicator of your chances in the rest of Europe. If you’re a sunny person, you’ll see this as a sign of our open-mindedness and tolerance. We like new things. We’re outward-looking people who like to break new ground. Our multi-cultural society proves it. Critics could argue that our likings are very middle-of-the-road, which makes us every marketer’s wet dream. Either way: combine a keen eye for business with a global taste in music; throw in some expertise, mix it with enthusiasm and you can get any ball rolling. a
GO CLUBBING The conference part of the ADE is only open to industry professionals, but you’re more than welcome to pick the fruits of their conversations at night. Armin van Buuren, Alphajack, Carl Cox and David Guetta are some of the festival’s headliners, though real electrophiles are probably more interested in discovering new talent. With 196 different gigs in four days, there’s plenty of choice. Not really a connoisseur, but still want to get a taste of what’s on offer? I’d suggest opting for one of the more unconventional locations, like the bus terminal below Museumplein. I speak from experience when I say it really adds to the vibe. Tickets for all shows can be bought through the ADE’s website; amsterdam-dance-event.nl or at the door (subject to availability, of course).
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PIMP MY BIKE
Some people are riding around on a monster of a vehicle. Amsterdam Magazine is here to help them out! BY: arun sood photography: sarah moore
Ryan cooper, 37
‘RYAN’S FIRST BIKE GOT STOLEN AFTER ONLY FOUR DAYS.’
I
t’s a bold move to give up the comfort of home life, sell your material possessions and start afresh in a country where you have no connection to the language, culture or people. While it might seem like a daunting prospect, there’s also an unparalleled sense of excitement that comes with undertaking such an adventure. SURPRISE MOVE Ryan Cooper, 37, and his wife had always dreamed of packing up and leaving their hometown of Detroit in favour of exploring
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a new way of life elsewhere. So when they came across a job opening in Amsterdam a few months ago, the couple decided to take the plunge and embrace the unexpected. The only hitch was being met with an even bigger surprise of their own before hopping the pond. ‘My wife and I had always talked about leaving and trying something different while we were young,’ says Ryan. ‘So we sold all our possessions, cars and anything else that could help us with the move. But then four days before we left, we found out we were expecting a baby!’ Rather than pull out of their dream move to Amsterdam, Ryan and his wife decided to continue on their adventure, and are now expecting a baby in October. PUNK PIMP In addition to the excitement over their new arrival, Ryan has settled into the Amsterdam way of life with ease and cites the biking culture as one of the highlights of living here: ‘I was really into biking before I even came here, so the fact that everywhere is so accessible by bike is great,’ he says. ‘Back home, cycling around on busy roads is like taking your life into your own hands, but here there is a real freedom to the city.’
Ives.One The Pimping Artist
THIS MONTH’S STYLE IS DIRTY AND MESSY
PIMP MY BIKE
‘I’M ALREADY THINKING ABOUT A NEW NAME FOR IT’
Ryan bought a bike as soon as he arrived in Amsterdam, but unfortunately it got stolen after only four days. So having settled for a slightly battered looking second-hand bike, Ryan called on Amsterdam Magazine to give it a bit of a makeover. A big fan of punk rock and a full-time music blogger, Ryan asked for a ‘punk’ themed paint job. It’s time to see if this month’s artist is up to the task. PROJECT ASA Having painted since he was a teenager, Ives.One is a veteran of the Amsterdam street art scene. He started off living dangerously and risking the wrath of the law for the sake of his art, but the Dutch artist has come a long way since his early days as a budding young graffiti artist. ‘I’m not 16 anymore and have a bit more responsibility,’ he says. ‘But that won’t stop me painting on the street. Even if it’s considered illegal in some places, I take pride in making my city – and other cities – more beautiful. So I don’t worry about any of the stuff I used to.’
In addition to his own work, Ives. One also helped to establish Project ASA (Amsterdam Street Art) along with Nicole Blommers. Project ASA aims to provide a platform for street artists in Amsterdam by creating events and forming a sense of unity within the local scene. ‘It started off as a group of friends just getting together,’ he says, ‘but then it started to grow and we decided to make an effort to boost the scene in Amsterdam by creating an outlet for artists. Soon galleries started to become interested in what we were doing and now we are in a really good position to help nurture street art in the city.’ SPLATTER WHEELS While Ives.One has painted in a variety of styles over the span of his career as an artist, his current method is perfectly suited to Ryan’s dream of a punk-themed bike. ‘I used to use stencils and have more cartoon elements to my work,’ says Ives.One. ‘But now the style I like is quite dirty and messy. I like a lot of drips and layers of paint on top of
each other. That maybe goes with the punk style a bit.’ After spraying a base coat and splattering layers of spray paint over the main frame and wheels of the bike, Ryan’s bike slowly transforms into an anarchic yet stylish ride. Upon seeing his newly painted bike, Ryan smiles: ‘It’s beautiful man, I really like it.’ He laughs, ‘I’m already thinking about a new name for it. Maybe I’ll get my blog readers to help me out with it.’
Would you like to have your bike pimped completely? Email us at info@amsterdam-magazine.com and we’ll see what we can do!
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THE TEN
Amsterdam
goes Halloween 10 ways to get your undead freak on! You’re not going to find any trick-or-treaters on your doorstep come October 31, bit don’t pawn your Smurfette costume just yet. There are still plenty of ways you can celebrate All Hallows Eve in and around Amsterdam. BY: BRANDON HARTLEY | ILLUSTRATION: NICKY FALKENBERG
CARVE A JACK-O-LANTERN In the United States, these over-sized vegetables start showing up outside grocery stores as early as the last week in September. Alas, pumpkin patches are hard to come by in Holland. While some expats opt to carve large squashes that can be found at markets around the city, tracking down a proper ‘pompoen’ could be a bit of a hassle. Give the Intratuin in East Amsterdam a shot. Garden centres often keep them in stock during the month of October, too. www.intratuin.nl
CALL YOUR BOO-FRIEND AND HEAD TO THE MOVIES
SHAKE THE COBWEBS OFF YOUR ROLLER SKATES Friday Night Skate will again host their annual ‘Fright Night Skate’. This year’s scary roller-thon is slated to take place on October 28. Costumes are encouraged, but keep in mind that long skirts and Grim Reaper robes don’t really mesh well with skates. The route has yet to be determined so keep your eyes on the website below for further details. www.fridaynightskate.com
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GET ALL GUSSIED UP AND HEAD TO THE THEATRE ’Amsterdam Spook’, a local organisation devoted to all things ‘spooktacular’ has staged an elaborate Halloween celebration for years now. 2011’s gathering will be held at the Odeon Theatre on the night of October 29. Dig out your monocles and corsets because the theme this time around is ‘Victorian Freak Shows’. The organisers are promising a ‘packed program of misshapen DJs, creative acts and disturbing performers’. www.halloweenamsterdam.com
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Pathe will host its cleverly-titled ‘Mr Horror’s Halloween Horror Show’ again this year at theatres located around Amsterdam and elsewhere. Four phantasmic film premieres are happening on October 29, with the titles yet to be announced. Last year’s round-up included The Last Exorcism, Buried and Tucker & Dale vs. Evil . www.filmevents.nl
HANG OUT WITH EVIL CLOWNS AT WALIBI HOLLAND
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The malevolent and magnificent Eddie the Clown will once again MC the popular theme park’s ‘Fright Nights’ - the Netherlands’ largest annual Halloween event. Take a spin on Goliath, the fastest roller coaster in the Benelux, or visit one of Walibi’s horror shows or haunted houses.Last year’s edition featured a creepy Alice in Wonderland theme. www.frightnights.nl
THE TEN
VISIT SOME LOCAL HAUNTS Did you know that Dam Square once served as the site for hangings and witch burnings? Or that the vengeful spirit of a woman named Helena still hangs around de Zeedijk? Learn all about these legends and more at one of Amsterdam Ghost Walk’s evening tours. They run for 90 minutes, are conducted in both English and Dutch and depart from the Tara Pub a few nights every week. www.amsterdamghostwalk.com
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SLITHER ON OVER TO THE HARD ROCK CAFE You can bet that this haven for all things Americana will host a few events over Halloween weekend. Last year’s costume party included free ‘Witch’s Brew’ cocktails to attendees who came appropriately attired. The Hard Rock also arranged a more family-friendly gathering during afternoon hours. Its ‘Little Monsters’ and Witches’ Party’ was appropriate for boys and ghouls of all ages. Check out the cafe’s website for further details. www.hardrock.com
ESCAPE FROM AMSTERDAM AND HEAD UNDERGROUND Maastricht, located down in Limburg, is a city rich with history and culture. It also has a series of incredibly creepy subterranean caves. ‘Maastricht Underground’ is centuries old and it’s incredibly easy to get lost while wandering through these labyrinthine tunnels. Tours are offered daily, but the staff also host a Halloween party. Last year’s was based around the legend of ‘The Lost Girl’. www.maastrichtunderground.nl
HIT THE MELKWEG This beloved Amsterdam venue and cultural center will once again serveas the crash pad for a Halloween festival. It will kick off early on the afternoon of Sunday 30. This year’s terrifying melee will include films, a Halloween shop, live DJS, three bands and a ‘Freaky Catwalk’ fashion show. This year’s ‘Best Dressed Couple’ will also win a ‘scary trip to London’ that includes airfare, hotel and tours of the London Dungeons and Jack the Ripper’s old hunting grounds. www.melkweg.nl
STAY HOME AND GORGE YOURSELF ON CHOCOLATE As Garfield the cat, a big fan of the holiday, once opined, ‘Halloween is all about the candy, candy, candy!’. Since you probably won’t find a single funsize Milky Way within 1,000km of Amsterdam, ‘tis the season to try some local favorites. Fetch some delectable chocolates from Puccini Bomboni or fill a basket full of Lion bars at your nearest supermarket. Whatever you do, stay away from those salty licorice drops. If you’re not Dutch, they’ll mix with your stomach about as well as werewolves and silver bullets. www.puccinibomboni.com
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SPECIAL
A Time Traveller’s Trip By: Tracey Forbes | Photos: Sarah Moore
Amsterdam’s Brown Cafe’s are said to be timeless. Discover how useful a 1969 guidebook would be in the present day city!
Stepping into my friend John’s apartment is like falling down the rabbit hole into Wonderland. The walls are lined with books waiting to transport an unsuspecting reader into worlds of fantasy and imagination. Or at the very least step back into the past. In this case the Amsterdam of 1969 beckoned from the shelf in the form of The Fun Lovers Guide to Surprising Amsterdam*. I was immediately hooked.
Nicotine-stained walls
Did I say 1969? In Amsterdam the 18th century is never far away, and stepping into a brown cafe is like being catapulted back in time. Dubbed ‘brown’ because of their dark interiors and nicotine-stained walls, several date from the 1700s, and have wooden floor boards (some with sawdust), dark wood furnishings and a decor that looks like it could be original. There are often leaded glass windows, beamed ceilings, chandeliers and ornate breakfronts behind the bar.
More than just a restaurant and pub guide, this quirky little book provides snippets of history and personal stories about bar owners. It’s also a veritable wealth of information. It got me thinking - could a 1969 guide have any value in modern-day Amsterdam? Did these
70-year-old bottles
places still exist and if so, what were they like now? I resolved to find out, and for the next few days I could be found sitting in a brown cafe everyday around 4PM.
stands at the end of the bar, but is now filled with water and no longer works. Mr Vincent suggests that the first owner, in mid-1799, had an additional reason for
De Dokter is possibly the smallest bar in town. As Tom Vincent (author of FLG) says, it’s not much bigger than a doctor’s office. The place is apparently named De Dokter because it’s what the Dutch call genever - the curer of all ills. The old gin pump
* Fun Lovers Guide to Surprising Amsterdam, by Tom Vincent, 1969.
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De D
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mste eg 4 -de-d okte r.nl
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christening his bar thus - men could tell their wives they were going to see the doctor when the thirst took them and they wouldn’t be questioned. This tiny pub - with room for only seven bar stools and four small tables - serves drinks that other bars have never heard of. I asked for ‘T Hempje Licht Op’ (lift up your shirt). The owner rummaged through dusty bottles on the breakfront, pulling out several and cradling them in his arms. Eventually he found what he was looking for, right at
book in 1969! Such drinks were considered medicinal and have remarkable curative powers due to a secret, special combination of herbs, bitters and spices. ‘T Hempje Licht Op’ was a stomach settler. The amber liquid warmed on the way down and I tasted oranges, cocoa, and vanilla. If only all medicines tasted this good.
The undisputed king of liqueurs must be Wynand Fockink (Pijlsteeg 31). This 300-year-
stone floors, creaky wooden stairs and myriad nooks and crannies. The old custom of bending over the wooden bar to take the first sip out of the fluted glass without picking it up is still observed here. Ingrid the bar lady shrieked in alarm: ‘What are you doing?!’, when a customer inadvertently lifted her glass to her lips, causing her to stutter, ‘sorry, sorry’. A man sitting on a low wooden stool in the corner murmured ‘that’s just not done’. I chatted to Paul, the
are good,’ he said with an unassuming smile. I consulted the list and went for ‘Bittere Lijdenstroost’, as much for the name as anything else. This liqueur is said to dissolve any kind of sorrow. Indeed after two glasses, they say all the world’s problems will be solved forever! Famous clients such as Winston Churchill, Field Marshall Montgomery, Chagall and Henry Moore may have had this in mind - at least Wynand’s concoctions would have helped them forget everything for a
the back, and told me the bottle was 70 years old. Imagine this very liqueur was sitting in the bar when Mr Vincent wrote his
old ‘proeflokaal’ or tasting house oozes atmosphere and tradition. It’s a cosy place with soft copper light, tiled
distiller (he has a business card that states he’s an ‘alcoholist’), and asked him which liqueur he could recommend. ‘All 80
while.
Carpets on the tables
If it’s no-nonsense, salt-of-theearth Amsterdammers that you
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want, try De Gouden Florijn. De-rigueur wooden trappings and furnishings abound. Here there are even carpets on the tables. A cigarette smolders in an ashtray on the bar and everyone seems to have a cigarette clamped between their fingers. Behind the bar, one plaque proclaims ‘roken moet mogen’ (smoking must be permitted) and another ‘leve de recessie’ (long live the recession). It’s just possible to read them through the clouds of smoke that hang in the air. Eight or so people congregate at the large round table at the front, and every time someone comes in a shout goes up, and hands wave
in the air when a customer leaves. This is a real neighbourhood pub. The barmaid strides up and down handing out ‘vaasjes’, causing the floorboards to vibrate.
Clouds of smoke hang in the air A statue of Jesus stands guard over a basket of fresh oranges. Newspapers litter the tables at the back. No one is alone.
Horsing around Close by, Het Bruine Paard is
also a locals’ pub. The story goes that in the early days after this 400-year-old house became a pub, there was a fire station across the canal that depended on horses to get equipment to the fires. One of these horses became so attracted to the pub, and was so much more interested in hanging around there than going to fires, that they finally named the place after him. His likeness hangs outside the pub over the front door. Many of the old timers consider these bars as much a part of themselves as their own homes, an extension of their sitting rooms. They are solid, dependable,
Het Br Pri
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comfortable places, with the occasional nod to the 20th century - a peanut dispenser, a telephone - just don’t expect a flat-screen TV. Papeneiland is perhaps the most picturesque brown cafe. Large front windows frame views over the Prinsengracht and Brouwersgracht. I wondered how many had admired the view before me. Papeneiland is part of the fabric of Amsterdam. In 1641 an itinerant coffin maker occupied the house. He often had time on his hands waiting for a job and sold drinks on the side to make ends meet. Eventually his sideline became more profitable than his main trade. This location has housed a place to drink ever since. And there’s more. During the Reformation many
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Pap e
Pri
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of Amsterdam’s catholics were not allowed to worship in the church across the canal, and spent their time in Papeneiland. The authorities were unaware of a tunnel running under the canal that allowed access to the church from the drinking house and allowed worshippers to conduct secret services.
nei
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in and asked if I would reserve a table for Bill Clinton; I told her “no, we only have three tables, we’re not going to start making reservations.”.’ But when several dark cars pulled up and the bar was surrounded by security guards whispering into earpieces he realised there was something afoot.
The distillers’ business card states he’s an alcoholic The tunnel entrance is still visible in the cellar, although has long since been bricked up. I fell into conversation with the cafe’s owner. He told me about a modern day piece of history
Clinton sat alone at the back of the bar and drank coffee and ate apple pie. The regulars had been told to leave him alone. They couldn’t quite keep to it, clapping him on the shoulder
- ex-president Clinton’s visit. ‘I thought the young woman was pulling my leg when she came
as he was on his way out of the bar, telling him he should thank his host, and offering him
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a cigar. A framed typed letter from Clinton hangs at the back of the bar, saying how much he enjoyed the experience.
History repeating I sat looking around me, admiring the old stone floor, the high ceiling, the antique clock with its meter-long pendulum, the paintings.
I began to notice a strong resemblance between the owner and the subject of the painting behind me. looked at him. I looked at the date on the canvas. I asked. His patrons, he told me, had given him the painting on his thirtieth anniversary in the pub. Gradually, the penny dropped. He’d owned and worked in
Papeneiland for more than 40 years. I consulted the FLG. It mentioned ‘the friendly owner - Tiel’. The man in the painting was also called Tiel. They were one and the same. I told him about my quest, and told him he was in my book. He laughed. He was almost a part of history himself.
e Caf
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WORTH VISITING De Grote Swaen Prins Hendrikade 52 This bar opened its doors in 1789 and is close to Centraal Station. Hoppe Spui 18-20 cafehoppe.com One of the oldest bars in Amsterdam dating from 1640. Cafe Smalle Egelantiersgracht 12 www.t-smalle.nl Many authentic features - leaded glass and antique stairway - and serves locally brewed Amsterdam beer - De Zatte. Cafe Eijlders Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 47 eijlders.nl A new kid on the block in the world of brown cafes. Started in the 1940s as an anti Nazi hangout
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JOAN OF
DAM
This fall Scottish Tartans are taking over Dam Square!
PHOTOGRAPY: DIRK KIKSTRA PRODUCTION: TOMMY HAGEN
FASHION
Top: Cottonfield Vest: Dimitry F.Krul Skirt: Episode Stockings: H&M Flag: Albert Cuyp market
Top and skirt: Deux d’Amsterdam Scarf: In Wear
Dress: G-sus Coat: Bellerose Scarf (green): Esprit Collection Scarf (white): Bellerose
Top: Edwin Shorts: Episode Scarf: Gerritsen theatercostuums Stockings :H&M Pumps: Made by stylist
Top: Deux d’Amsterdam Gilet: Zipper Skirt: Gerritsen theatercostuums Gloves: Pieces
Styling: Inge de Lange Assistant styling: Didi van Rijssen Hair: Tommy Hagen Make-up: Ellen van Exter for Faas/Veronique Model: Julia, Future Faces
Top: Episode Vest: Dimitry F.Krul Stockings: H&M Boots: Van Haren
KNOCK KNOCK
KNOCK KNOCK THIS IS HOW AMSTERDAM LIVES
IT TOOK DETERMINATION, HARD WORK AND A CLEAR VISION FOR DANIËL AND MONIQUE TO TRANSFORM AN OLD CARGO BOAT INTO A SUPER-STYLISH HOUSE. AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE TAKES A LOOK INSIDE THEIR FLOATING PALACE. BY: MARIEKE VERHOEVEN | PHOTOGRAPHY: SARAH MOORE
F
inding Daniël and Monique’s house ship near Westerdok is not an easy task. ‘Take a right at the red mailbox on the Van Diemenstraat,’ Monique says simply on the phone. Next to the mailbox, a small alley leads to the dock with about ten large ships. Suddenly, hectic city life feels miles away. There are no street noises, trams or traffic jams here. The only sound you hear is the boats rocking softly back and forth. Passing kids greet Monique who’s standing at the entrance of her huge ship. ‘It’s like a small village here,’ she smiles. ‘I don’t think I’ll ever move back into a city apartment.’ With good reason; this setting is not only incredibly serene, the former cargo boat easily measures up to the most luxurious city loft. >
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‘THE ABILITY TO WALK IN A CIRCLE GIVES A MORE SPACIOUS FEELING’
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KNOCK KNOCK
‘BUY A BOAT AND WORK UNTIL YOU DIE’
WALKING IN CIRCLES The 100-square-metre ship did not look this good when Daniël and Monique bought it about two years ago. Says Daniël: ‘It was used for the shipment of sand and shells, so the biggest part was cargo space. We bought it from two hippies, who didn’t do a lot of renovation. It was dark and the facilities were pretty basic.’ To help them transform the old ship into the beautiful house it now is, they called in the help of Daniël’s uncle. ‘He’s an architect and experienced in unconventional housing. One of the most important changes he suggested was making the space ‘circular’,’ Daniël explains. ‘Instead of one entrance to the bedroom in the back, we have one on each side. The ability to walk in a circle gives a more spacious feeling.’
Keeping some of the original elements was essential for Monique. ‘The ceiling consists of wooden shutters that you can still open. We polished and varnished them and now they look amazing.’ To create more light, windows in an authentic style were put in by professional steal workers. The bathtub and bathroom cabinet are made from the original wood. Painting the floor white and keeping the interior minimalistic was also a conscious choice. Monique: ‘Since the ceiling is pretty dark, we wanted the rest to be light. A wooden floor would have made it optically smaller.’ And it has more advantages, Daniël adds: ‘The reflection of sunlight on the white floor is beautiful and it’s easy to keep clean!’
WORK UNTIL YOU DIE The ship isn’t kept spotless just for our visit. Daniël and Monique occasionally rent out the ship to tourists and companies. ‘For visitors this is a unique experience and with the two bedrooms, it’s also suitable for families,’ Monique says. ‘I think it’s a lot nicer than staying at some random hotel.’ Daniël says the extra income is a nice perk. ‘Living on a ship like this can be pretty costly. Heating the place is expensive and so is the maintenance. With the money we make by renting it out, we can save up for future spending.’ Even though Daniël and Monique are both teachers in higher education, they do most of the renovation and maintenance work themselves. ‘People sometimes joke, saying ‘koop een boot en werk je dood’ (ed. ‘buy a boat and work until you die’). And I must admit: it’s definitely a lot of work. But when I look out over the water and feed the passing swans from the window, I wouldn’t want to trade it for the world,’ says Daniël.
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AMSTERDAM EATS
amserdam eats
De Campagnon In pursuit of culinary delights beyond bitterballen and frites, our expat foodie visits De Campagnon: a romantic canal-side French bistro. BY: HUNGRY IN HOLLAND
A
s you walk through the neighbourhood surrounding De Campagnon, it’s difficult to imagine a high-end French establishment amid the barrage of tacky takeaway restaurants. But as you turn off the Warmoestraat away from red light Amsterdam, a single French awning overlooking the canal hints at a little Parisian escape in the heart of the madness. FRENCH ROMANCE De Campagnon is one of the few places in Amsterdam that makes you feel like dressing up. The lavish interior boasts dripping candles and pristine white tablecloths draped perfectly over rustic furniture. As I walk to the upstairs area, I’m surprised at how intimate the restaurant is with only four small tables overlooking the canal. The restaurant is narrow, but comfortable and cosy, making it an ideal spot for a romantic evening. The night begins with an offering of champagne and a delicate rosé aperitif while we skim over the extensive wine list. With over 400 bottles from almost every wine region imaginable, there are plenty of options to pair with each course.
‘Be sure to save room for dessert’ THE MAIN EVENT In true French style, the courses came one after another at a relaxed pace, giving us the space to fully experience each course. The chef’s unconventional four-course selection was a surprising mix of classical French cuisine with influences from other parts of the Mediterranean and beyond. The scallops, sautéed perfectly in the crumbled cepes, were superb and complemented by the strong flavour of wild mushrooms. While De Campagnon excels in serving seafood, they also offer a terrific slice of Spanish
The Outcome F Happy Taste Buds? Customer Service Interior Value for Money
Final Score:
§§§§2 §§§22 §§§§2 §§§22
7.2
Round-Up Cuisine: French Neighbourhood: City Centre Atmosphere: Upscale Price pp: €60 to €80 Open: Mon -Fri 12pm to 2pm, Mon-Sat 6pm to 10pm Public transport: Central Station Credit cards accepted: Yes Wheelchair access: No
pork. The tender meat, cooked with a drizzle of French savoury sauce was the highlight of the night. While the portions are large, be sure to save room for dessert as the chocolate and orange platter is an exquisite way to end the evening. The distinctive tanginess of the orange blends perfectly with the creamy sweetness of the chocolate without overpowering it too much. Service was inconsistent on our visit, with a mix of well trained and attentive servers taking the time to explain each dish in detail, and others dropping off dishes with no comments. Regardless, with its romantic setting and excellent cuisine, it’s worth making a reservation and experiencing a night in Amsterdam with a French twist.
What others said: Iens.nl: “Tables beautifully draped, delightful wines, and a fun outdoor herb garden.” - Simone12
Tripadvisor.com: “Probaby the best meal experience I’ve had.” - Elpaco49
Restaurant De Campagnon Guldenhandsteeg 17 +31 (0)20 6204225 decompagnon.nl
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WET YOUR WHISTLE
De Vergulde Gaper Amsterdam’s supply of tiki bars and honkytonks is almost nil, but there’s one drinking establishment that serves as a suitable timewarp. Step inside De Vergulde Gaper! By: Brandon Hartley Photography: Sarah Moore
W
atering holes devoted to bygone eras can be found all over the world. In Jackson, Wyoming, for example, there’s the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. This kitschy haven celebrates the area’s rustic past with stools made out of horse saddles and a stuffed grizzly bear that was supposedly killed by an unarmed, local bad-ass. Elsewhere across the globe, you’ll find tiki lounges like the resurgent Trader Vic’s chain, which transports patrons back to the late 1950s when Mai Tais, Polynesia and Les Baxter’s ‘exotic sounds’ were all the rage. Unfortunately, Amsterdam’s supply of tiki bars and honky-tonks is minimal. On the bright side, there’s at least one drinking establishment in town that takes patrons back in time, albeit into a rather random corner of city lore. Step inside De Vergulde Gaper (The Plated Gaper) and you’ll get a gander at a nearly forgotten chapter of Dutch history.If you’ve never been to this odd restaurant and bar, located in a former pharmacy in the Jordaan District, you’ll probably find yourself wondering, ‘Ok, what’s up with all the weird busts and why are they sticking their tongues out at me?’. The walls inside are lined with wooden and stone heads called gapers, that once served as markers for drug stores all across the Netherlands. The term translates into English as yawners. Basically the pharmaceutical equivalent of barber poles, these busts aren’t tired, they’ve got their tongues out because they’re hoping someone will fill their mouths full of medicine. BACK IN TIME Gapers are usually depicted as Arabic because, back in the day, most remedies were supposedly imported from the Middle East. Hundreds of years ago, apothecaries
set up shop at markets across the country with assistants dressed in robes and turbans. The duo would often act out skits where the assistant would be magically cured by the pharmacist’s elixirs. When pharmacies started popping up around the Netherlands in later centuries, the gapers helped illiterate customers find them. The busts have since been replaced with neon signs at Amsterdam’s modern drug stores, but if you keep your eyes peeled, you’re liable to spot a few of them still, literally, hanging around. OH, HELP ME, PLEASE DOCTOR, I’M DAMAGED
At the Gaper you’ll find ‘medicine’ like calamari, minced meat sausage and spicy potato wedges with aioli on the bar’s snack menu. While the beer selection is on the limited side, offering typical brands like Jupiler, Palm and Leffe, the bar is stocked with enough hooch to sooth your soul. Feeling a little down in stride? Give one of the Gaper’s dry martinis a try. Got an upset stomach that’s troubling you? The liquor menu’s digestives include Remy Martin, Calvados and Grappa. They may not quell your grumbling gut, but they’ll make your head feel like a million bucks.
Gaper translates into English as yawner
The Gaper helps brings new meaning to the term ‘self-medication’, but you might want to consult its knowledgeable and professional staff before making a selection. Regardless of what you pick, it’s sure to cure what ails ‘ya!
De Vergulde Gaper Prinsenstraat 30 +31 (0)20 6248975 goodfoodgroup.nl/gaper.html
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EXPO
MURRAY’S WORLD BRITISH
PHOTOGRAPHER
MATTHEW
MURRAY HAS A MASTER’S DEGREE IN DOCUMENTARY PHOTOGRAPHY, AND IT SHOWS. HE SIMPLY PORTRAYS WHAT’S AROUND HIM: EVERYDAY PEOPLE AND ORDINARY
THINGS
ALONGSIDE
THE
BIZARRE. DON’T THINK OF HIS PICTURES AS
EFFORTLESS
THOUGH.
THERE
ARE TOO MANY ABSTRACT ANGLES, OBSTRUCTIONS AND HUMOUR FOR THAT. UNPRETENTIOUS,
THAT’S
WHAT
WE
WOULD CALL IT.
GALLERY VASSIE 24 SEPTEMBER - 19 NOVEMBER Langestraat 47 +31 (0)685 72 47 97 galleryvassie.com
BENIDORM MAN, SPAIN BY MATTHEW MURRAY
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FAMILY GATORLAND, FLORIDA USA BY MATTHEW MURRAY
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EXPO
ST MARIES DE LA MER, FRANCE BY MATTHEW MURRAY
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MADE IN HOLLAND EXPO
MADE IN HOLLAND
Vondel Verses BY: ALLISON GUY
Amsterdam’s Vondelpark is a Dutch national heritage site, and one of the most popular parks in the Netherlands, clocking in ten million picnickers every year. In 2007, after a ten year restoration effort, the municipality decided that Vondelpark needed new furniture and lighting to match the renewed beauty of its landscape. Designer Anouk Vogel and architect Johan Selbing were unanimously awarded the commission for their project Vondel Verses. Executed in matte black to match the park’s wrought iron fences, Vondel Verses brings natural elements to the park’s benches, rubbish bins and fountains. The lamp posts are shaped like abstract daffodil buds and topped with stylised songbirds. Even the park’s food kiosks are updated with outer grates patterned with dense foliage. The cast iron objects are not only made to last, but their graceful forms harmonise with Vondelpark’s romantic ponds and meadows. The first installment of Vondel Verses, a bench decorated with birds and branches, was unveiled in January 2011. Twenty more benches followed the first, modified from the prototype to discourage design-hungry thieves. As old fixtures wear out, Vogel and Selbing’s designs will gradually propagate through the park. Eventually, Vondelpark’s miscellany of elements will be unified by the natural poetry of Vondel Verses.
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ELBOW:
reminiscing of a time when men were still boys.
‘WE WERE ABSOLUTELY SHITTING IT’ Twenty years, seven top 20 albums, a Mercury and a small host of kids later, Richard Jupp, who is, self admittedly, ‘surrounded by bits of metal and wood,’ tells us about his journey from struggling artist to prize-winning festival act. By: Tim Hilhorst
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INTERVIEW
D
edicated drummer and all-round pleasant human being Richard Jupp, 36, speaks confidently when he talks of his time with his musical brothers, Elbow. ‘There’s a vast and glorious heritage of great musicians who have come from the Northwest. People have said we’re a part of it now, which is quite an honour.’ A LONG TIME COMING The glow that surrounds them recently is relatively new to the band that previously resided in the lower echelons of notoriety. For 20 years the band was making a living surviving, but ever since their commercial break with The Seldom Seen Kid, their sixth record, and critically acclaimed tracks ‘Grounds for Divorce’ and ‘One Day Like This’ they’ve met their long awaited breakthrough. ‘I think for me, performing on Friday Night with Jonathan Ross, 50, was the ‘holy shit’ moment. And between you and me - and Amsterdam Magazine - Lenny Kravitz dropped out that week and we got the call and it was like fuck… right… this is big!’ And big it was. From here the five strapped In for a roller coaster ride including an explosion of hits on YouTube and the very prestigious Mercury award. ‘We were absolutely shitting it; you can put that in bold,’ Richard says elaborating on what it was like before the show. NOT ANOTHER STADIUM FILLE Few bands stick together for as long as Elbow has, and even fewer progressively produce new albums that exceed fan expectations. After their ‘commercial success’ it was widely rumoured the next album would be a louder and more arrogant collection of stadium fillers, but the lads managed to remain true to their fans and more importantly, themselves. ‘As great as it was, it was like all right… let’s crack on and make another record that is its own body of work and not just a collection of five versions of “One Day” and five “Grounds for Divorce”, because that would have been easy.’
Build a Rocket Boys became an instant success, heralded as the best of their career because it was quiet, genuine and heartfelt. Delicate portrayals of youth and nostalgic representations of a time long gone make for an easy listen, and one that we can all
relate to. ‘Once you step through the sort of “TVeffect” where you become a real household name you get a sense of that responsibility to others and not just yourself for providing good music.’ But it’s the camaraderie evident in every one of their Mancunian twangs that sets Elbow apart from their peers. ‘It’s great because we have all collectively experienced the notions on the album.’ Admittedly Elbow is not for everyone; the music requires an attention to detail and an interaction that occasionally seems excessive, but those that enjoy the music enjoy it passionately - which is abundantly clear from the cult following the five have harnessed over the last two decades.
‘WE STEPPED THROUGH THE TV-EFFECT’ ELBOW ROOM Why is it that their music seems to resonate so intensely? Richard says it’s Guy’s way with words. ‘He is such a phenomenal writer. He really paints a very intimate picture of the troubles in his life or just some generic feeling. It influences the rest of us to write music that will give it a really good foundation.’ The trick is that Guy only writes what he knows, making his lyrics honest and the music that accompanies it often unique and always interesting. In the end the album sounds like a group of longtime friends musically reminiscing about their youth in a beautifully contemplative way. But the men are up to more than just moving melodies and kick-ass concerts. They’re English first and foremost, and as we all know, they enjoy a pint or two. The quintessential British lads have been asked to cook up their own brew, ‘they asked us if we fancied doing a special Elbow Beer and obviously we were like, “yeah”. It’s a lovely kind of ale.’ The golden ale is described as having, ‘a rich rounded body, smooth bitterness, a subtle tang of malt and fruity aroma’, which sounds like an accurate description of Elbow if I’ve ever heard one.
Holland serves as a second home to the band who are releasing a special version of ‘Build a Rocket Boys’ in the Netherlands containing live footage from two of Holland’s major festivals: Pink Pop and Lowlands. The lads are back in town 14 November for a gig in the Heineken Music Hall.
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DUTCH A-Z North’. One hundred kilometers of canals (or grachten in Dutch) divide the city into smaller islands, connected by beautiful historic bridges. The most famous canals are the Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. A canal tour is a great way to view the city from a different angle. The canals were created centuries ago and were often used for transporting goods.
Every issue Amsterdam Magazine covers the whole alphabet to help you understand what the Dutch are all about.
* 11 Cities Tour Although the Dutch love to complain about cold winters, they forget all about their grudges once the canals and lakes are frozen over. Let the ice-skating begin! [see Ice skating for more info] When the ice is thick enough (15cm), the largest speed ice-skating competition can take place. The ‘11 Cities Tour’ (Elfstedentocht) is a rare event because most winters are not cold enough. The last tours were in ‘85, ‘86 and ‘97. The tour is held in the Friesland province and the 200km course goes through 11 historic cities.
What’s Holland without cheese? Being the largest exporter, Holland offers many varieties of this yellow delicacy, such as Gouda, Edam, Maasdammer and Boerenkaas (farmer’s cheese). Make sure you take some of that gold back home!
12th century, Amsterdam became one of the most important ports in the world.
B Bicycles Some claim that there are more bicycles than people in the Netherlands. In Amsterdam, you will often see cyclists weaving nonchalantly between pedestrians. Renting a bicycle in Amsterdam might be a great idea to explore the smaller streets, but be careful if you’re not used to riding one!
Bitterballen Quite similar to the Kroket [see Kroket for more info], these little snacks are often served on special events such as birthdays, sport events or during business meetings. Of course, a beer perfectly complements this hot snack. Make sure you dip it in mustard before eating!
Clogs Ask anyone; “What’s typical Dutch?” and they often say wooden shoes. These shoes, also known as clogs, are actually no longer worn by the Dutch, but are still a popular souvenir. Originally, the wooden shoes were worn because of their protective features and were actually quite warm to wear since they were lined with hay.
If you’re searching for a hot, steaming coffee don’t be fooled; coffeeshops in Holland offer their customers something totally different. These coffeeshops will sell you (small) amounts of grass and you can smoke a joint on the premises, but only if there’s no tobacco inside, since the smoking of tobacco inside public places is banned. A small fact: it is actually illegal to sell weed, but not punishable, making it quite easy to get your stash.
D Delftware A Amsterdam Amsterdam is the capital and the largest city in the Netherlands. The city has a population of 1.4 million - quite impressive considering it began as a fishing village. In the late
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Boerenkool [see Stamppot for more info]
C Canals Amsterdam is sometimes referred as ‘Venice of the
Drop Black candy, it doesn’t sound nor look attractive, but the Dutch love it! Also known as liquorice in English, Dutch drop comes in hundreds of flavours and shapes. Most varieties will taste sweet, but some can be quite salty, so beware, it’s an acquired taste.
Dutch Treat
Coffeeshops
3 kisses In most cultures it’s common to greet a friend with a kiss (or two). The Dutch however, like to add one extra. These three kisses are actually air kisses; the lips should not touch the other person’s cheek. Oh, and to avoid akward situations: men don’t kiss eachother!
Cheese
done to prevent the country from flooding? Well the Dutch are very skilled at water management [see Water Management for more info] and dykes are one of those solutions. A dyke is a long wall or embankment which prevents water getting from one side to the other.
This is typical blue and white Dutch pottery that originated in the city of Delft. The original tinglazed pottery was made from the 16th to the 18th centuries.
Dykes A very large part of the Netherlands is actually below sea level, so what can be
Ah, the Dutch Treat; we all use it from time to time. Being known as penny-pinchers, the Dutch prefer to split the total bill at a restaurant and only pay their part. The Dutch Treat is also known as Going Dutch or the Dutch Date.
E Efteling Why go to Euro Disney when the magic is right here in Holland? The Efteling is Holland’s largest theme park, with fairytales around every corner. You can meet Little Red Riding Hood, trolls, elves and creatures you’ve never even seen before. There are also plenty of adrenaline rides, so it’s fun for the whole family. The Efteling is located in the south of Holland (Kaatsheuvel). Go to www. efteling.com for more info.
F FEBO Got a sudden craving for a crispy kroket or frikandel? [see Kroket or Frikandel for more info] Find a FEBO outlet and make sure you’ve got some coins on you. The FEBO is a fast food chain of automatiek restaurants, where you can buy your snacks from a wallmounted vending machine.
Frikandel This typical Dutch snack is shaped like a large sausage, but it’s rather different to the average sausage. It’s made from minced meat, deep-fried and
often eaten in a bun (broodje frikandel) or at least with a mixture of sauces. A frikandel speciaal is quite a popular variant; chopped onions together with mayonnaise and ketchup (or curry sauce) is placed in a frikandel that’s been cut open. A frikandel can be bought in a snack bar (fast food restaurant) such as a FEBO [see FEBO for more info] and is a typical party snack.
boterham (toast) with hagelslag.
Haring (herring)
G G (the pronunciation) Notable in the Dutch language, is the pronunciation of the letter ‘g’. Non-natives often struggle with this strange gurgling sound. In the northern and western parts of Holland, the letter ‘g’ is pronounced louder, a so-called ‘hard g’. In the other parts a ‘soft g’ is more common.
Gay marriage The Netherlands legalised gay marriage back in 2001, making it a popular destination for gay couples due to the tolerant attitude. Every first weekend in August, the popular Amsterdam Gay Pride event is held, attracting hundreds of thousands of gay and straight visitors. The most interesting part of this event is the canal parade, where a variety of themed boats sail along the canals.
Gezellig The Dutch word gezellig cannot be translated in any other language and is used in various ways. It means something like cosy, friendly or nice, but can also refer to time spent with loved ones or being very sociable. Things that can be gezellig are; hanging out with friends, a bruin café, drinking coffee with the neighbour or even a nicely decorated room in the house.
Going Dutch [see Dutch Treat for more info]
H Hagelslag Cloggies eat a lot of bread. They eat it at breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner. Hagelslag is a typical Dutch chocolate topping that is sprinkled on toast (preferably white) with a thick layer of butter. Children in particular are quite fond of
This typical Dutch scenario is often quite repellent to outsiders: a raw shiny silver fish, covered with chopped onions, is held by its tail and is dangled over to the open mouth. With head tilted back, the fish is eaten (again, raw) and often a second one will follow. Yes, the Dutch love fresh haring every once in a while. A haring in a white bun is also quite popular. If you’re brave enough to try, go out an find some Hollandse Nieuwe catch between May and July; this is the best type of herring.
Heineken If you’ve never heard of Heineken, you must have been living under a rock. This brand of beer is world famous and originated the Netherlands. In Amsterdam you can visit the Heineken Experience to get to know everything you could possibly want to know about this golden liquid.
HEMA This Dutch department store with favourable prices has become quite hip in recent years. With more than 400 stores in the Netherlands, HEMA (Hollandse Eenheidsprijzen Maatschappij Amsterdam / Dutch Standard Prices Company Amsterdam) offers everything from homeware to clothing, office supplies to delicious sausages (rookworst) [see Unox for more info about rookworst].
Hyves Ever tried to find a Dutch friend on Facebook? This can
DUTCH A-Z be quite hard, because most of the Dutch are already quite busy maintaining their social networks on Hyves.nl. You might want to sign up there if you want to stalk that Dutch chick or dude.
I Ice skating Ice skating is a popular winter activity in Holland. Though the Dutch love to complain about cold weather, once the ice is strong enough, they will get their skates out and take to the ice. In larger cities, small skating rinks will be created to offer a safer alternative to natural ice. These small rinks are often quite gezellig [see Gezellig for more info] and you can enjoy a hot cocoa and other delicacies at the rink side. Speed skating is also a very popular sport in Holland [see 11 Cities Tour for more info].
[see Kibbeling for more info]. The
word ‘lekkerbek’ can also imply a person who really appreciates food.
M Mayonnaise This emulsion of oil, vinegar, lemon juice and egg yolk is often served as a dipping sauce for fries or chips.
N Nachtwacht (Night Watch)
The most famous Dutch painting, by Rembrandt van Rijn in 1642 [see Rembrandt for more info] is actually called The Company of Frans Banning Cocq and Willem van Ruytenburch. The picture is a group portrait of a division of the civic guard and is renowned for its size (363 x 437cm). You can see the Nachtwacht in Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum.
J Jonkie This Dutch gin (also referred to as Jenever) is a strong (35%+) liquor made in Holland and Belgium. There are two types of Jenever; old (oude) and young (jonge). The difference is not in age, but in the distilling techniques.
K Kaaskop
Kibbeling Cloggies are fond of fish and often treat themselves to a little fish snack. Kibbeling consists of deep fried chunks of cod topped with spices. These nuggets are served with specific sauces and taste quite similar to a lekkerbek [see Lekkerbek for more info].
Kroket The Dutch may not be famous for their haute cuisine, but they sure know how to snack! When you’re near a snack bar or a FEBO, go grab yourself a kroket; a crispy, sausage-shaped meat roll filled with (hot!) minced meat. The taste is quite similar to bitterballen [see Bitterballen for more info] and should be served with mustard and, if preferred, in a white bun.
Lekkerbek is deep fried cod and literally means ‘tasty beak’. The taste is quite similar to kibbeling
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Nieuwjaarsduik On January 1, thousands of people take a dip in the icy sea at Scheveningen, wearing nothing but a bathing suit, to celebrate the start of the new year. Afterwards, a hot pea soup provided by Unox [see Unox for more info] is truly a well deserved treat.
O Oliebollen
Known in English as the ‘Dutch doughnut’, Oliebollen are traditional Dutch treats that are especially popular around New Year. The deep-fried dough is often covered in powdered sugar and comes in different varieties. In the holiday season, oliebollen stands pop up around the country to satisfy the winter dessert cravings.
Orange
L Lekkerbek
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P Pannekoeken (Pancakes)
These Dutch pancakes are slightly different then the American ones; they’re thinner and larger in size. Also various ingredients may be added to create surprising flavours. You can eat a basic pancake with ‘stroop’ (sugar beet syrup) or powdered sugar or go for the traditional ‘spek’ (bacon) pannekoek.
Poffertjes These mini pancakes are a traditional treat and taste quite similar to pancakes, but have a firmer and spongier texture. Typically, poffertjes are served with powdered sugar and butter, but other toppings are also available.
Prostitution
(New Year’s Dive)
Kaaskop is a (not so nice) nickname for a Dutch person. It literally means ‘Cheesehead’.
When visiting Holland during the European Cup and World Cup football, or on Queen’s Day [see Queen’s Day for more info], the streets and people will be wearing their national colour with pride.
Orange is the national colour of the Netherlands. The association originated from the name of the royal family ‘Oranje-Nassau’.
Holland is a very open-minded country and legal prostitution is not hard to find. Brothels and red light districts are often touristic sights. In these red light districts, women are displayed behind windows, where you can pick your favorite and negotiate the deal. Typically, red light (or purple light for darker ladies) is switched on to show the passerby that there is sex for sale. When in Amsterdam, ‘de wallen’ area is a must-see. [see Wallen for more info]
Q Queen’s day Queen’s Day celebrates the birthday of the Dutch queen and is held on 30 April (unless that’s a Sunday, in which case it’s celebrated the day before). It’s not actually the birthday of the current Queen Beatrix, but her mother, Queen Juliana, but the tradition remains. This day is known for its ‘free market’ (vrijmarkt), where everybody is allowed to sell things on the streets. The streets and the people are coloured orange [see Orange for more info]. It’s probably one of the most gezellige [see Gezellig for more info] times in Amsterdam.
R Red Light District [see Wallen for more info]
Rookworst A typical Dutch sausage, made
with ground meat, mixed with spices, which is stuffed into a casing. While it literally means ‘smoked sausage’, it’s not truly smoked. This sausage is a typical ingredient of stamppot [see Stamppot for more info] and is often bought from HEMA [see HEMA for more info] or the supermarket. Unox is also a popular brand of rookworst [see Unox for more info].
S Sinterklaas While Christmas is widely celebrated in the Netherlands, children generally look forward to Sinterklaas more. This yearly Dutch feast is celebrated on December 5 and holy man Sinterklaas (who has a lot of similarities to Santa Claus) is the central character. The holy man and his helpers the ‘Zwarte Pieten’ [see Zwarte Piet for more info] will sneak through the chimney and leave behind jute sacks filled with presents for wellbehaved children.
Stamppot When it’s getting chilly outside, the Dutch like to eat stamppot for dinner. Stamppot is a mixture of boiled potatoes and vegetables topped with gravy and served together with meat such as rookworst [see Rookworst for more info]. Popular stamppotten are Boerenkool (farmer’s cabbage), Andijvie (endive), Zuurkool (Dutch sauerkraut) and Hutspot (potatoes mixed with onion and carrot).
T Tulips If you come to the Netherlands in the spring, you can’t miss the tulip fields in the countryside. The Dutch love their flowers and the tulip is their most prized possession. Home to the world’s largest tulip garden, Keukenhof is a nice place to see the colours and varieties of tulips.
U Unox This consumer product brand is presented as something typically Dutch. Their rookworst [see rookworst for more info] is often eaten during winter times and Unox is a prominent sponsor of the 11 cities tour [see 11 Cities Tour for more info] and the nieuwjaarsduik [see Nieuwjaarsduik for more info].
South Holland. The 19 historical working windmills are on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list and are among the most popular tourist destinations in the country.
Wooden Shoes [see Clogs for more info]
V VOC
(Dutch East India Company) The VOC (Vereenigde OostIndische Compagnie) was a chartered company established in 1602. It was the first multinational company and the first that handed out shares. For decades this monopolistic concern dominated the global spice trade, transporting spices using large ships (you can see a replica ship at the Scheepvaartmuseum in Amsterdam). The VOC representatives used violent methods to gain respect from the native population. In the first years of the 1800s the VOC slowly fell apart.
W Wallen De Wallen is the largest and most famous red light district in Amsterdam. It is a network of alleyways and canalside buildings where approximately 300 windows are used by prostitutes [see Prostitution for more info]. The prostitutes sit behind a window in a room with a red light. This is a major tourist attraction in Amsterdam and the area also includes a number of sex shops, peep shows, and a sex museum.
X xxx You might presume that the triple X sign represents the erotic scene in Amsterdam. Well it could. But when you ask a Dutch person what XXX means, they will probably say three kisses [see 3 Kisses for more info]. The XXX is quite similar to the American xoxo (hugs and kisses). These three letters are also to be found everywhere on the streets of Amsterdam, such as on amsterdammetjes (steel bollards). In that case the crosses are part of the city’s crest, and are actually Saint Andrew’s Crosses - not that sexy, but of historic value.
Y Yiddish Many words from the Amsterdam dialect originate from the Yiddish language. Examples are mazzel (lucky), mesjogge (crazy), nebbisj (unlucky person), achenebbisj (poor, messy) and koosjer (in order, all ok). Before WWII, Amsterdam was home to a large group of Jews whose mother tongue was Yiddish.
Z Zwarte Piet Water management Since large parts of the Netherlands are below sea level, the Dutch have become very inventive when it comes to keeping the water out. Their systems are utilised globally and range from dykes and dams to well-engineered automatic floodgates.
Windmill The Dutch are famous for their windmills and have a long tradition of using windmills for land draining, corn milling, saw milling, and more. There are currently 1200 windmills that still survive today. The largest collection of windmills are located at Kinderdijk in
(Black Pete)
Sinterklaas’s [see Sinterklaas for more info] companions are loved by children. The funny looking characters with colourful costumes and blackened faces are subject to much debate. Foreigners are often shocked by their appearance. While it is a very old tradition, the fact that their faces are covered in black make-up and they are Sinterklaas’s helpers is unacceptable to some.
MUSEUM CHECK
Bijbels Museum YES, IT’S DEVOTED TO ALL THINGS BIBLICAL, BUT VISITORS WITH SHAKY FAITH NEED NOT FEAR A DRY REHASH OF SAINTS OR FEEL PRESSURE TO PRAY.
By Allison Guy In this museum you’ll find more than just a bible. It’s a quirky compendium of personal collections that have amassed over the centuries - including Middle Eastern archeology, the role of the Bible in the Netherlands and the history of the canal house itself. LESS IS MORE aid out on the ground floor of a house iThe Bijbels Museum occupies two 1662 houses that were built for the merchant Jacob Cromhout at the height of the Dutch Golden Age. It boasts a flamboyant spiral staircase and not one, but two
Michael Westrich GERMANY
We came here because we thought it was free. We have the I Amsterdam card. We came to see the nice spiral staircase. Some of the Bibles are really great. The spines are all different and the bindings are very beautiful. The garden was a very creative place. The left room for smelling was good, but the smells in the right room were not that good, too intense.
original kitchens, one with an oven fit for Hansel and Gretel. The famous 1718 ceiling fresco by Jacob de Wit overlooks the reception hall. Swirling with 12 Greek gods, 12 zodiac signs, four winds and four seasons, the pagan Gods and Heroes United seem to have forgotten to invite the biblical God to their soiree! The Garden of Gardens out back gives visitors the rare chance to wander around a mini-Eden in Amsterdam’s canal belt. It’s planted with trees and shrubs mentioned in the Bible, and fin-
The Garden gives a chance to wander a mini-Eden
Lucyna Partyka POLAND
When I read about this museum I thought this was more for the Bible as a book. I’m a librarian, so it was more interesting for me to think of it as a book. I’m a Catholic from Poland, so it seemed to me to be too small. The Bible is a great tale for the small expositions, but they are well prepared here. I liked the aesthetic of the museum. The materials they use make it interesting to see.
ished with a water fixture where visitors can (symbolically) make like Moses with the Red Sea. The garden’s flowers are complemented by two aroma cabinets, one for everyday Biblical perfumes, the other for holy oil and incense. If you’ve ever wondered just what the heck myrrh is, this is your chance to get a whiff of this sweet-smelling tree sap. A BIBLE REVIVAL The top floor houses the eclectic collection of Rev. Leendert Schouten. The main attraction is the Reverend’s life’s work, a diorama of the Tabernacle that’s more a testament to the depth of his belief than his artistic prowess. Schouten’s well-researched scene is rich with narrative detail. While the high priest kneels before an Indiana Jonesstyle Ark of the Covenant, a literal
Emily Rabone UK
I’m doing a course in the philosophy of religion in two weeks, so I thought it might be helpful to come here. I liked the visual touches, but if I’m being completely honest, a lot of the stuff I already knew. However, it’s nicely displayed and very accessible. On the first floor, there wasn’t enough English for me to understand. The audio for the story of Abraham was also only in Dutch.
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Though the basement houses the Netherlands’ oldest printed Bible, the 1477 Delftse Bijbel, it’s still the most modern part of the collection. Using touch screens and playful children’s crafts, the exhibit tells the tumultuous story of the Bible’s translation into local languages. Once restricted to elites, the printing press brought the Bible to the masses, and eventually to hotel nightstands everywhere. The Bijbels Museum has something for everyone, but it might not have enough to satisfy on any one topic. Unless you’re a religious scholar, it’s best for people who don’t mind a scattershot, yet charming approach to one of the best-selling books on earth. In Amsterdam, a city marked by extremes of religious tolerance and persecution, it’s worth an afternoon to learn how all the fuss began.
Photos: Costas Tavernarakis
‘escape goat’ is being loaded with the sins of the people and readied for being booted into the wilderness. Beyond the Tabernacle is a burnt sienna room with mummies and animal-headed deities, all Egyptian artefacts from the 400 year period when the Hebrew people lived along the Nile.
Bijbels Museum Herengracht 366-368 bijbelsmuseum.nl
The Verdict: VALUE FOR MONEY: 3.5/5 Entrance: €8 for adults, €6 for adults 65 and older. €4 for children 6-18 years. Free for children five years and under. Free with the Museumkaart, I Amsterdam Card, and ICOM. Comments: The Bijbel museum combines two museums in one: a wellpreserved canal house from the height of Amsterdam’s Golden Age, and a glimpse of biblical life that focuses mainly on the Old Testament. The house has a beautiful spiral staircase, two ancient kitchens, and one of the few gardens in the canal belt accessible to outsiders. Highlights of the collections are the well-designed basement exhibit devoted to the Bible in Holland, the ceiling fresco by Jacob de Wit, and Rev. Leendert Schouten’s diorama of the Tabernacle. The current temporary exhibit, Peter and I, is a mishmash of contemporary and historical art that explores the life
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of the disciple Peter. The garden room has self-serve coffee and tea, and dangerously unguarded jars of cookies. English friendly: Most information is available in English, though some audio and descriptions are Dutch-only. Child friendly: The Bible room in the basement has activities specifically tailored for younger children. Budding archeologists and theologians will enjoy the aroma cabinets and the creepy Egyptian mummies, though the museum may be a bit dry for high-energy offspring. Wheelchair friendly: All floors are accessible by an elevator. Museum hours: Open Monday through Saturday from 10AM to 5PM. Open Sunday and holidays from 11AM to 5PM. Closed on 1 January and 30 April.
COLUMN
SEX and de stad
CONFESSIONS OF A PROSTITUTE WHAT’S IT LIKE TO BE A WORKING GIRL? LAUREN, AN AMSTERDAM PROFESSIONAL, REVEALS HER DEEPEST SECRETS.
THIS ISSUE: TOO MANY TO TANGO - By Lauren Wissot -
‘Shall we dance?’, asked the self-assured woman with striking blue eyes and chestnut brown hair cut into a retro bob, just like in a scene from a movie. But her question wasn’t directed at her slightly nervous, though equally good-looking, husband. It was for me.
out through the loudspeakers. ‘He only wants to watch,’ she added, nodding her head in the direction of John who was passionately engaged in his BlackBerry. I nodded back, and assured her that was fine. Then she asked if I’d been with girls before. I told her I consider myself bisexual (prostitution is a lot like fortune telling: Just give the answer that the client wants to hear.). Nathalie smiled. ‘Good. I’ve no patience for virgins.’
‘Prostitution is like fortune telling’ SWINGERS g Under normal circumstances the swinger’s scene isn’t my thing, but since everyone has a price – and the gentleman who set up the appointment for him and his wife agreed to double mine – I trekked out to a notorious private residence in Hilversum, an unassuming den of debauchery as far from the Red Light District as window work was for me. Within seconds of my arrival at the half empty space I received a text message beckoning me to the club’s humble bar where I noticed a handsome couple downing drinks a few feet away from a sad-looking dance floor. We exchanged brief introductions before Nathalie reached for my arm and guided me under a broken glitter ball. Holding me close she whispered her plan for the evening with all the urgency of preparing for a bank heist. ‘He doesn’t want to touch,’ Nathalie explained as the late Amy Winehouse’s voice rang
HERE’S JOHNNY g Nathalie put her hand on my shoulder as she escorted me back to the bar. ‘You look like you’re ready for some fun,’ her husband flirted, flashing a sheepish smile. I shot him a come hither look, taking the lead towards the small lockers where we could check our belongings before heading to the candlelit rooms upstairs. Suddenly, my phone began buzzing from inside my purse. I glanced at the message that read, ‘Are you here yet? Meet us at the bar,’ and originated from the same number that had texted me before. I looked around confused. John had put away his BlackBerry. Then I noticed another couple sipping cocktails. The silver-haired gent waved at me. ‘Uh, you two get started. I’ll find you upstairs,’ I stammered to Nathalie then dashed past the dance floor that was now slowly filling up with married men and women (and way too many single guys) before she had a chance to respond. ‘Sorry I’m late,’ I said feeling flushed as I greeted the waiting couple. ‘You must be John.’
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Framed!
Every day Thomas Schlijper takes a picture. Check out his blog at www. schlijper.nl and see what the beating heart of Amsterdam looks like. Here’s a sneak preview!
BY THOMAS SCHLIJPER
10 SEPTEMBER, VONDELPARK, 20:36 On a comfortable evening - in this otherwise entirely wasted summer - I felt no urge to go home. In the Vondelpark I found these lovebirds kissing. I just had to capture the moment (and the balloons).
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CAPTURED
CAPTURED By: Betribes
VALTIFEST
NSDM WERF, AMSTERDAM
3 SEPTEMBER >
Photos: Rebekka Mell
This costume play always results in a colourful crowd and an even more colourful party.
CAPTURED
KISS
A beautiful crowd, lots of glamour and house music.
Photos:Ilker Ulku
THE SAND, AMSTERDAM
< 17 SEPTEMBER
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CAPTURED
40,000 people in 20 different areas at one of the biggest nature parks in the Netherlands. FLORIADETERREIN, HOOFDDORP
27 AUGUST >
Photos: Guido van der Zanden  & Roy Laros
MYSTERYLAND
Betribes is the biggest party website in the Netherlands. You can find a lot of free tickets, an up to date party calendar and the latest news. Check betribes.com for more info.
UPCOMING
BY: NICOLA BOZZI
/OCTOBERGIGS
AFRICA IN THE PICTURE Featuring no less than 61 feature films and documentaries divided into five themes (Gay Africa, Horror, Noord Africa, Panorama and Roundabout Africa Shorts), this film festival will be tackling all kinds of tough topics such as the stigma of homosexuality in Uganda, transgender South Africans or the terror of the Congolese rape culture. It’s not all depressing though, with events like Rootical Vibrations: Rasta Beginnings, spreading out some good When: 5-9 October Rastafari vibes through Where: Het Ketelhuis & MC Theater film, food and a live mix of Admission: Varies acoustics and roots reggae. africainthepicture.nl
SATURDAY 1
WEDNESDAY 5
Ricardito & Quinteto Tipico Oriental, Bimhuis Ricardo ‘Ricardito’ Ortiz used to lead successful group Vieja Trova Santiaguera, precursors of the legendary Buena Vista Social Club. The 77-year-old veteran is sharing the stage with Quinteto Tipico Oriental for some nostalgic Cuban rhythms. 8.30PM, €20.
The Baseballs, Melkweg (The Max) Get down with some ubiquitous pop hits like Rihanna’s Umbrella, Leona Lewis’ Bleeding Love and Snow Patrol’s Chasing Cars with a rock’n’roll twist added by this Berlin group. 9PM, €28 + membership.
Richmond Fontaine, Paradiso (Kleine Zaal) An alternative country band hailing from Portland and led by songwriter and novelist Willy Vlautin, whose lyrics evoke the American West and the troubles of the working man. 8PM, €10 + membership.
SUNDAY 2 Marianne Faithfull, Paradiso (Groote Zaal) Legendary singer, songwriter and actress who has been around for five decades, renowned both for her tumultuous life and deep voice, presents her 18th album, Horses and High Heels. Support from Amsterdam’s very own Signe Tollefsen. 7.45PM, €39 + membership. The Get Up Kids, Melkweg (Oude Zaal) One of the poster bands of emo’s second wave, having influenced groups like Fall Out Boy and Blink 182. Go pretend you’re 16 again and mosh away. 8.30PM, €16.50 + membership.
MONDAY 3 Noah & the Whale, Paradiso (Groote Zaal) English indie folk outfit, who have been compared to the likes of Belle & Sebastian, promote their third album Last Night on Earth. 8.30PM, €16 + membership. Monday Match, Bimhuis Every first Monday of the month, unlikely mixes of dancers and musicians come together to improvise performances in front of a live audience, followed by an afterparty DJ-ed by Michael Moore (no, not the documentary filmmaker). 8.30PM, free.
TUESDAY 4
CINEKID FILM FESTIVAL During this festival, children aged 4 to 14 can attend more than 200 productions, ranging from feature films, documentaries, short films, animations and TV series to interactive installations and workshops. Kids also take part in a series of performances all over Amsterdam and 30 other Dutch cities. For media professionals, this is a great opportunity to hear speakers such as TV strategy consultant and former CBBC head of interactive Marc Goodchild and transmedia When: 12-21 October expert Cristy Dena from Australia. Where: Westergasfabriek Fun fact: did you know that Admission: Varies animated characters make children cinekid.nl remember things better?
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Anna Calvi, Melkweg (Oude Zaal) Her eponymous debut album, inspired by 1980s pop rock, has already been showered with praise and a nomination for the famous Mercury Prize. Go experience her cinematic soundscapes before this British songstress becomes too hot to handle. Support from Grey Reverend. 8PM, €14 + membership. The Netherlands Chamber Orchestra, Paradiso (Groote Zaal) What better venue for a classical evening of Tchaikovsky and Vivaldi than this majestic, stained-glass adorned former church? Heaven indeed. 8.15PM, €20.
THURSDAY 6 Keri Hilson, Paradiso (Groote Zaal) R&B songstress, who has collaborated with Timbaland and also co-written songs for artists such as Mary J. Blige, Usher and Britney Spears, is now flying solo. Support from Dutch rapper Jayh. 7.30PM, €26 + membership. Pete Philly, Melkweg (Oude Zaal) Former member of multiple award-winning Amsterdam hip-hop duo Pete Philly and Perquisite has just released his second album, One. Expect hip-hop with some jazz, broken beat and soul flavours. Support from Seeka. 8.30PM, €15+ membership.
FRIDAY 7 Caio Koko & Banda Maloca, CC Muziek Cafe Spark the Latin fever up in this De Pijp live music joint with a double bill mix of bossa, chorinho, samba and pagode. 8PM, €5.
SATURDAY 8 The Obamas, Pacific Parc These Groningen-based garage rockers are obviously huge fans of the US president. Go find out more about their surf and bluesinfluenced tunes. 11PM, free. Alain Clark and the Metropole Orchestra, Heineken Music Hall Multiple award winning crooner Alain Clark takes his pop tunes to an epic level with the help of the world’s largest professional pop and jazz orchestra. 8.15PM, €39.
SUNDAY 9 Yuri Honing Wired Paradise Perhaps the Netherlands’ most prominent saxophone player. He freely mixes jazz with pop, classical Arabic music and electronica and is joined by his band who dabble in electric jazz and references to cult movies. Support from Americana singer David Pino. 8.30PM, €18.
MONDAY 10 BimLAB 4, Bimhuis (Café) An improv series curated by duos of different artists from the Union of Dutch Improvisers. This month’s edition is produced by saxophonist/flutist Sean Bergin and pianist/ composer/conductor Martin Fondse, who invite their favourite musicians for some funky jamming. 9.30PM, €6.
UPCOMING
TUESDAY 11 Karnatic Lab, Muziekcentrum de Badcuyp (Concert Zaal) Regular concert series devoted to elements taken from Karnatic music (aka classical music from South-India), such as advanced development of rhythm, microtonality and use of ornamentation. This month’s performer: seasoned Japanese saxophonist Katsura Yamauchi. 8.30PM, free. Sick of It All, Melkweg (The Max) These hardcore New Yorkers have been around for 25 years, releasing nine albums and recently touring the UK with AFI. Support from Shai Hulud, All For Nothing and The Setup. 7.20PM, €15 + membership.
WEDNESDAY 12 Mother Mother, Paradiso (Kleine Zaal) Canadian indie rock quintet that tackles tough subjects like love and death with a trademark mix of upbeat melodies and soft vocals. 10PM, €9 + membership
THURSDAY 13 Band of Skulls, Melkweg (The Max) Alternative rock English trio, who have toured with the supermassive Muse and appeared on the Twilight Saga soundtrack, return to Melkweg after last year’s sold out gig. Support from Broken Hands. 8PM, €17 + membership. Thursday Tunes Jam, CC Muziek Cafe This pretty much does what it says on the tin, with some pop, rock and blues jammin’. 8PM, free.
FRIDAY 14 Dhafer Youssef & Abu Nawas Rhapsody, Bimhuis Allow yourself to be carried away to Tunisia by this singer and lute player who often collaborates with progressive European musicians without giving up his mystical Sufi roots. 8.30PM, €22. Maison de Malheur, Pacific Parc Go back to the good ol’, cigar-smoking, whiskydrinking days as this band plays a blend of rhythm & blues, swing and rock’n’ roll inspired by 1920s all the way up to the 1950s. 11PM, free.
SATURDAY 15 Feist, Royal Theatre Carré This singer-songwriter and member of Canadian indie collective Broken Social Scene has swept up the 2008 Juno Awards in Calgary, winning just about everything, including Best Album for The Reminder. Now she’s coming to Amsterdam! 8PM, €39-€48. Amsterdam Soul Club, Muziekcentrum de Badcuyp (Music Café) DJ Jos Others leads proceedings at this monthly dance party with music, adding some visual Motown flavor with classic soul videos. 10PM, €6.
SUNDAY 16 Teresa Cristina, Bimhuis This singer was discovered in Rio de Janeiro’s most vibrant district, Lapa, known for its nightlife and
music. Nowadays she travels the globe, sharing the limelight with the likes of Caetano Veloso, Seu Jorge and Marisa Monte. 8.30PM, €22. Amsterdam Pop Prize – Semi-Final 1, Paradiso (Kleine Zaal) An Amsterdam ‘battle of the bands’ that has been around for 15 years. Famous bands to have won the competition include folk’n’roll darlings The Tunes, who have been favourably compared to Mumford & Sons by the Dutch press. Don’t miss the second semi-final (see Sunday 23). 9PM, €9 + membership.
MONDAY 17 The Subways, Melkweg (Oude Zaal) Garage/indie rock trio that hasn’t met with much commercial success, but has become a fave among Reading and Leeds festivalgoers. Catch some new tunes from their third, ironically-named album, Money & Celebrity. Support from The Dukes and The Dancers. 7.30PM, €15 + membership.
TUESDAY 18 Beady Eye, Heineken Music Hall After Noel Gallagher ditched Oasis, the other members, including Noel’s estranged brother Liam, quickly reformed under a new moniker and recently released their aptly titled debut album, Different Gear, Still Speeding. 8PM, €39.60.
WEDNESDAY 19
TORI AMOS A singer and composer, she led the pack of early nineties female singer-songwriters with her own brand of piano-driven alternative rock. Although nominated for eight Grammy awards, oddly Amos never won any. But this remarkable musician doesn’t need any statues to confirm that she owns the stage: her fans came to see her in more than 1,000 live shows. Rolling Stone magazine readers also agreed that she was one of the best touring live acts of 2003. Today, When: 17-18 October Tori’s still got it. She Where: Royal Theatre Carré will embark on her Admission: €48-€62 11th world tour just theatercarre.nl weeks before her double date with Amsterdam.
Glitch Mob, Paradiso (Kleine Zaal) edIT, Boreta and Ooah are three L.A.-based DJs who make ‘glitch hop’, a thrilling mix of electronica, synthpop and hip hop beats sprinkled with sound effects reminiscentof a computer with technical disturbances (‘glitching’). Part of the Amsterdam Dance Event (see listings). 22:15, €12 + membership. Groove Armada presents Red Light, Melkweg (Rabozaal) A multi-FX extravaganza featuring four decks and stunning visuals from this already legendary British house duo. Part of ADE. 11PM, €30.
THURSDAY 20 Marketa Irglova, Amstelkerk Paradiso presents this adorable Czech singersongwriter and actress, who hit the big time at only 19 after she co-starred in indie musical Once with the seasoned Glen Hansard. The two won an Oscar for Best Original Song at the 2007 Academy Awards. 9PM, €15. Thursday Tunes Jam, CC Muziek Cafe This pretty much does what it says on the tin, with some pop, rock and blues jammin’. 8PM, free.
FRIDAY 21 Ches Smith & These Arches, Bimhuis This American drummer and percussionist is no stranger to eclectic collaborations as he started out improvising with punks and metalheads before developing his signature style in the jazz bands of Marc Ribot and Tim Berne. 8.30PM, €21. Apparat & Modeselektor, Paradiso An IDM (Intelligent Dance Music) lover’s dream
AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT Amsterdam’s not only famous for yummy krokets and raw herring; it also plays host to the biggest club festival for electronic music in the world, which has now reached its 16th edition. Seven hundred international artists will be pumping some serious beats in 52 venues all over the city, while during the day 3,000 music professionals will be pickinga each other’s brain in technical demonstrations and interactive workshops. We thought we’d help you navigate through the digital maze by carefully hand-picking ADE’s When:19- 23 October hottest gigs, so just Where: Various locations browse through our Admission: Varies listings and choose amsterdam-dance-event.nl your faves. See you on the dancefloor!
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double bill featuring electro, drum’n’bass, alternative dance and techno minimal from German musician Sascha Ring (aka Apparat) and Berlin-based band Modeselektor, spiced up with smashing visuals by design collective Pfadfinderei. Part of ADE. 10PM, €20.
BUDDHIST FILM FESTIVAL EUROPE At its sixth edition, this festival has already established itself as an international platform for showing contemplative, never-before-seen feature films, documentaries, experimental pieces and TV programs influenced by Buddhism. Most movies are either English-spoken or English-subtitled. Highlights include the opening screening Buddha, a gritty anime portrayal of young prince Siddhartha’s life (based on a series by manga legend Osamu Tezuka) as well as This Prison where I Live and When: 1-3 October Into the Current: Burma’s Where: De Balie Political Prisoners, two Admission: €8.50 to €45 documentaries about the bffe.org political situation in Burma.
David Guetta, The Sand This French house veteran broke into the international limelight with a Grammy-winning, global smash single featuring Kelly Rowland, When Love Takes Over. His fifth record includes collaborations with superstars Nicki Minaj and Usher. There’s no stopping this hit machine, so shell out those euros and let him and his guests take over the dancefloor. Part of ADE. 10PM, €59.50.
SATURDAY 22 Bombino, Podium Mozaiek A young Tuareg songwriter and guitar sensation in the Saharan countries. He mixes a hip, contemporary sound with the legacy of legendary Malian guitarist Ali Farka Touré and blues and rock greats Jimi Hendrix, John Lee Hooker and Jimmy Page. 9PM, €13-€18. Gentlemen of Verona, Pacific Parc Raw Belgian garage rock band known for their blend of sharp melodies and wild drumbeats. Followed by DJ Daan Modern. 11PM, free.
SUNDAY 23 Amsterdam Pop Prize – Semi-Final 2, Paradiso (Kleine Zaal) An Amsterdam ‘battle of the bands’ that has been around for 15 years. Famous bands to have won the competition include folk’n’roll darlings The Tunes, who have been favourably compared to Mumford & Sons by the Dutch press. Don’t miss the first semi-final (see Sunday 16). 9PM, €9 + membership.
MONDAY 24 Irma, Paradiso (Kleine Zaal) A Cameroon-born, Paris-based singer who has worked with one of Lenny Kravitz’s producers for her debut album after becoming famous on YouTube. Expect sweet, guitar-driven pop melodies. 7.30PM, €8.50.
ADEATERS Created in 1981 by Jean Marie Boursicot, this night of advert-devouring has become a worldwide phenomenon with more than 100 cities decideding to host the event. After last year’s edition, Amsterdam’s giving the audience not one, but three nights filled with thought-provoking, artsy or plain hilarious commercials carefully selected by Boursicot and his team. The main film lasts a whopping five hours split into four blocks When: 12-14 October Where: Pathé Tuschinski and features just about Admission: Varies everything from the recent adeaters.nl Volkswagen and Adidas Star Wars-themed ads to some old USSR gems.
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Greek Music Night, CC Muziek Cafe You can’t break plates at this cozy De Pijp live music outpost, but you can sure make Zorba jealous with your epic dancing skills. Opa! 8PM, €3.
TUESDAY 25 Jane Birkin sings Serge Gainsbourg, Royal Theatre Carré Birkin’s steamy 1967 duet with the late Serge Gainsbourg, Je t’aime… moi non plus, has been covered by artists as diverse as Donna Summer, The Pet Shop Boys and Placebo frontman Brian Molko. But this English actress and singer is more than just a pop culture reference. Go see for yourselves. 8PM, €21-€58.
WEDNESDAY 26 Steve-O, Melkweg (The Max) Even though he has made a name for himself by performing the craziest of stunts with his Jackass buddies, this daredevil quit drugs and alcohol, went vegan and started touring the States, Canada and Australia as a stand-up comedian. 8.30PM, €22 + membership.
THURSDAY 27 Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw & Barry Harris, Bimhuis A touching tribute to American saxophonist Charlie ‘Bird’ Parker featuring 81-year-old pianist Barry Harris, who witnessed the birth of bebop. 8.30PM, €28. Digitalism, Melkweg (The Max) This German duo, famous for their house-rock hybrid sound, is back with a second album called I Love You, Dude. Get ready to dance your heart out to the high-energy synth beats. 10PM, €18 + membership.
FRIDAY 28 Airborne Toxic Event, Melkweg (Oude Zaal) L.A.-based indie rock quintet influenced by The Cure, Two Door Cinema Club and Green Day and sporting story-like lyrics inspired by its lead singer’s fiction-writing heydays. 8.30PM, €13 + membership.
SATURDAY 29 I Like Trains, Sugar Factory Alternative/post-rock outfit hailing from Leeds, who have a penchant for concept albums and dark, atmospheric songs about historical events. 10PM, €15. Sizzla, Melkweg (The Max) Jamaican reggae superstar and one of the most critically acclaimed musicians of the genre, he’s known for his sharp tales about ghetto life. 9PM, € 29.50 + membership.
SUNDAY 30 Paolo Conte, Royal Theatre Carré A living jazz legend famous for his melancholic, evocative compositions and deep, resonant voice. Absolutely unmissable. 8PM, €64-€88. Timber Timbre, Bitterzoet Paradiso presents Canadian folk group acclaimed for their cinematic, bluesy melodies. Creep On Creepin’ On, their fourth album, has been shortlisted for the prestigious Polaris Music Prize 2011. 8PM, €15.
MONDAY 31 Rocket Cinema, Oude Kerk Get your fix of Halloween scares as DJ duo Homework (aka Zip Stolk and Tom Waist) creates a spooky techno soundtrack for the original, 1933 version of King Kong. 8.30PM, €16.50.