Ye�, I’� ����!
beyond windmills, wooden shoes and weed
m a g a z i n e
A late-night snack By Hungry in Holland
Dutch Novelist Christiaan Weijts
‘We’re all stalkers’
Where to park? And: Pimp my Bike - I Love Vintage - Museum Check - Café Brecht - Sex and de Stad - Dutch Treat - Framed - and much more!
featured The Green lungs of amsterdam interview
14 20 53 65
Unlock the city: Vintage style! Meet the Dutch: Dutch novelist Christiaan Weijts Word on the street: What does freedom mean to you? Foreign exchange: Costume designer meets Greek head chef
reportage 24 28 42
pimp my bike: I want Salad Fingers on my bike getting around: Memories of De Vecht Knock Knock: There’s almost too much to look at
reviewed 19 22 56 58 73
amsterdam eats: A late-night snack Magnified: De Looier wet your whistle: Have your hair cut while drinking beer! Amsterdam Sleeps: Grand Hotel Amrâth museum check: Our Lord in the attic
Column 72 82
Sex and de Stad: Confessions of a prostitute Framed: by Thomas Schlijper
Dutch Delight in spain
ART & Design 60 22
Expo: Antiphotojournalism Made in holland: Tree Track
the guide 68
the regular 6 8 10
letter from the editor spamsterdam heads-up: News from the city
17 63 76 78
dutch treat: Liquorice The Ten: Outdoor arts captured: What you missed last month upcoming: Events that mustn’t be missed
With 50,000 copies distributed each month, Amsterdam Magazine is the largest free English-language magazine in the Netherlands. Amsterdam Magazine is distributed at hundreds of locations in Amsterdam including many hotels, popular tourist attractions, restaurants, bars and shops. For those on their way home or just passing through Amsterdam with a connecting flight, we are freely available at all four Schiphol airport lounges. Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly by: Amsterdam Magazine BV Herengracht 423 - sous 1017 BR Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 (0)20 8461690 firstname.lastname@example.org www.amsterdam-magazine.com twitter: amsterdammag facebook: amsterdammagazine Founding Publishers: Linda Korver Wouter Wijtenburg Editor in Chief: Mathilde Hoekstra email@example.com
Letter from the Editor
‘Great weather, huh?’ There’s nothing more trivial than having a conversation about the weather. Everyone knows that. Well, maybe not everyone. My
Art Director: Linda Korver firstname.lastname@example.org
neighbours for example: they don’t have a clue. Every time the sun
Sub-Editor: Karen Loughrey email@example.com
comes out – if only for a split second – they ask me that same stupid
Sales Director: Wouter Wijtenburg firstname.lastname@example.org
question. A consequence of moving to the suburbs, I guess.
Creative Assistant: Sarah Moore email@example.com
At first I would just nod and try to think of a clever response. Something
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about politics? Tricky one. Holiday? But what if they can’t afford it?
Fashion Director: Tommy Hagen email@example.com Intern: Marieke van den Berg firstname.lastname@example.org Intern: Caroline Goralczyk email@example.com Open Positions: Deputy Art Director Email your portfolio to firstname.lastname@example.org We’re open to any kind of internships! Email your request to email@example.com Frontcover: Sunny day at the Vondelpark - Linda Korver Contributors Morgan Currie, Jan Bart Dieperink, Vincent van Dijk, Michiel Döbelman, Allison Guy, Tommy Hagen, Brandon Hartley, April Jumelet, Blair Larkin, Evert-Jan Pol, Hermanna Prinsen, Mike Peek, Benjamin Roberts, Thomas Schlijper, Arun Sood, Marieke Verhoeven, Veronique, Anita Wagner, Lauren Wissot Special thanks to Spiros Carrington, Caragh Cuddihy, Foam, Jessie, Sabine Lange, Molly, Matthew Morin, Mike Mulcare, Peggy Mulcare, Paloma, Samuel, Vik Seven, Milagros Simarro, Nickie Stevens, Paparazzi, Tatiana, Eva Verboon, Christiaan Weijts
Health? Don’t ever go there with people twice your age if you want to see your house before dawn. My neighbours are not familiar with Facebook, Twitter or any other social media, so without our conversations about the weather there wouldn’t be any at all. That’s why I decided to go with the flow. And isn’t that what Tao has been trying to tell us for ages? As a result we’re singing hallelujah to the sun together, we’re having beer at the Blauwe Theehuis (Check out our featured story about the green lungs of Amsterdam to find out where it is), we’re bronzing our armpits and we’re glancing at those mini-skirted women (yes, women too).
Advertise with us! To find out on how you can get your message across to 100,000 international tourists each month, reach us by email at: firstname.lastname@example.org or call our office on: +31 (0)20 8461690.
Tao was right. Let’s enjoy the beautiful weather and save the real
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Printed at Senefelder Misset BV Distributed for free in the Netherlands Recycle this magazine by passing it on! --------------------------------------------------------© Amsterdam Magazine B.V. 2011. Amsterdam Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Amsterdam Magazine or its publishers. Amsterdam Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content. ---------------------------------------------------------
conversation until tomorrow. Today anything can happen!
Editor in Chief
When we’re not busy making funky fresh magazines, we like to get social with our readers online. Besides chatting, gossiping, debating and flirting, we also like to give away prizes. Join our Facebook, Twitter or Foursquare page to get hold of any of our great giveaways!
/amsterdam-magazine And now also on:
/amsterdammag jessicajesselai: Was backpacking thru GR-NL-BE-FR but hands down, I love D’am the most, vind dit bijzonder leuk! Dikke X uit Bangkok voor lieve AmsterdamMag sanneatketch: Middag! Zeg, waar meld ik me aan voor dat fijne blad van jullie? (Afternoon! Tell me, where do I apply for that wonderful magazine of yours?)
LMLexi: Naked Ron Jeremy & a giant Chihuahua head? Peek into the home of @ExPornStar organiser Gijs vd Wint!<-- is RJ back in 020? amsterdamfoodie: Will definitely be checking out Tomatillo soon! Bernardo Carvalho: ♥ love you Stephen Albert: THIS WAS A FANTASTIC EVENING--THANK YOU! (For the Does it Offend you giveaway) Danny Teichman: Amsterdam I love you, I miss you, and I want you back in my life. Its been way way wayyy too long. Noordermarkt> Most people know about the Saturday farmers market but did you know that on Mondays from 9.00 to 13.00, its a giant vintage clothes, and antique market. Get ready to dig and find some treasures! 7√ Van Gogh Museum > Make sure to checkout their Friday night agenda. Many times they have free entrance with live music and other activities! 7√ Paradiso > Need a rest from the crowd? Check out the basement cafe or go all the way to the top for a spectacular aerial view of the venue! 5√ Ken-San Ramen > The best price to quality ratio in Amsterdam. Quick service, and great pan-asian food. Try the Duck ramen, it’s addictive. 4√
sP@msterdam WHAT YOU SHARED WITH US...
What do you think of Amsterdam Magazine or Amsterdam in general? Do you love it? Loathe it? Admire it? Don’t bottle it up; share your feelings with us (and the rest of the world). Your fearless attitude might be rewarded...
From: Morena Date: Thu, April 28, 2011 at 9:34 PM Subject: April issue To: email@example.com
Jewels at the Waterside
Buongiorno! While drinking a couple of beers in some bar in the Jordaan district (sorry, I forgot the name), a copy of Amsterdam Magazine caught my eye. I immediately grabbed one and then...forgot about it. I know, I’m such a loser!! The next morning I woke up lying in bed in my hotel room: hung over and feeling very lonely without Amsterdam Magazine by my side. You can only imagine my happiness when I found another copy in my room! I took it to the loo and started reading until eventually the housekeeper showed up. Then we decided to follow your advice and go to the beach. Best decision ever: we spent one of the best days of our lives there! Thanks Amsterdam Magazine and oh, if Mike Peek is willing to become our personal guide, he’d be more than welcome to! :-P
GASSAN DIAMOND TOUR
CANAL TOUR WITH CANAL COMPANY
The city of Amsterdam is now offering a tour titled ‘Jewels at the Waterside’. The tour is catered to people interested in seeing the various cultural gems along the Amsterdam canalside. The package includes a complete tour of Gassan Diamonds, where guests learn about the history of diamond cutting in the city, a canal tour on the ‘Water Sensations’ boat hosted by the Canal Company and ends with artwork from the Russian Orthodox
P.S. I’m staying until June so I’ll hunt down the next issues as well! Ciao,
Church at the Hermitage Museum. An
audio tour is also available in Dutch and English. For more information visit:
How to book this arrangement: wE HAVE A wInnER! Dear Morena,
ARTiS ROYAL ZOO
Glad to hear you enjoyed the beach! This month you should deﬁnitely go to a park (p. 46) AND visit the Artis Royal Zoo, because you’ve won two tickets! Make sure you bring the housekeeper along!
NEXT MONTH WE’LL READ THROUGH ALL THE SPAM AND SELECT ONE EMAIL OF THE MONTH. SO GET CREATIVE WITH YOUR WORDS, MAYBE EVEN ATTACH A PICTURE OF YOUR STAY IN AMSTERDAM, OR BRIBE US WITH JENEVER... EMAIL US AT INBOX@AMSTERDAM-MAGAZINE.COM FOR THE CHANCE TO WIN GREAT PRIZES!
The arrangement takes place daily and does not have to be reserved. The guided tour starts at Gassan Diamonds and costs €25 per person. You can buy the voucher in the Diamond Land shop inside the Diamond Experience.
Gassan diamonds Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175 1011 LN Amsterdam Tel: +31 (0)20 6225333 www.gassandiamonds.nl
Heads-up news from the city
By Evert-Jan Pol
Virtual Anne Frank House nominated for Webby Awards
The website Het Achterhuis Online (The Secret Annex Online) of the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam has been nominated for two Webby Awards. These are the world’s most important Internet awards. The digital tour through the house where Anne Frank hid has been entered in the categories of ‘Best Cultural Institutions’ and ‘Best Visual Design – Function’. The site could also win a Webby People’s Choice Award, the audience award. The winners will be announced on 3 May. Since its launch last year, over 800,000 people have ‘walked’ around the virtual house. If you want to discover it yourself, you can enter through: www.annefrank. org/en/Subsites/Home. Source: ANP Photo: annefrank.org
Rotterdammertje in Amsterdam You might have seen them, the reddish brown poles with the round tops. The so-called Amsterdammertjes can be found along pavements throughout the city to stop cars from parking. The poles are not only located in Amsterdam but in other cities too. In Rotterdam, however, all the Amsterdammertjes are going to be replaced with new poles, the Rotterdammertjes. The first pole has been presented to Amsterdam to thank the city for the lengthy service provided by the Amsterdam poles. But Amsterdam Alderman, Freek Ossel, emphasises that the Rotterdammertjes will never replace the Amsterdammertjes in his city and so the Rotterdam pole has been sited in city hall. Source: AT5
Animals to save Angel’s Place?
They are known as the tough guys, the ‘bikers’, but Hell’s Angels appear to be nature lovers too. The flora and fauna growing and living on the motorcycle club’s grounds is worth protecting, the Angels claim. And naturalist Martin Melchers supports them. Several species call the club grounds their home, including the rare bullhead fish, salamanders, and bats. The presence of the animals may even do the Hells Angels some good. Amsterdam City Council wants the club members to leave their premises on the Wenckebachweg so they can build homes there. The animals may be what is needed to save their property. Source: RTV N-H Photo: Elvis Santana
Homeless Prevention Like Rotterdam, The Hague and Utrecht, Amsterdam wants to prevent people from becoming homeless. The city is going to intervene immediately if it looks like someone is going to end up on the streets. They plan to help the near homeless by offering job search opportunities and build a social network. Learning about money management is also one of the supports offered. The four cities together would like to help about 20,000 people. The Action Plan for Social Care is following a 2006 plan that helped people who were already homeless. This resulted in the provision of shelter for about 10,000 homeless people. Source: RTV N-H Photo: Ibon San Martin
Naval base to become city park?
What will happen to the naval base, across from the Nemo Science Museum? This question was raised recently when Defence Minister, Hans Hillen, announced his plan to cut €1 billion from the defence budget. Amsterdam Alderman, Maarten van Poelgeest, offered to buy the base if the Navy was willing to sell it. If it’s up to him, the city will build houses there. The District Centrum, however, would prefer to see a green city park modelled on the Westerpark, with restaurants, playgrounds, and space for cultural activities and sports built there. The discussion may be premature, because it’s not at all certain whether the Navy is willing to sell or not. Base commander Anton Nieland said: ‘For now this site is not redundant’.
Football and music for Japan On Wednesday 14 April, Amsterdam Arena football stadium was the scene of a national support action for Japan. With a charity football match and a benefit concert, the Red Cross raised money for the victims of the earthquake, the tsunami and the nuclear disaster. About 30,000 people watched several Dutch artists perform. The concert was broadcasted live on television. A football match between Amsterdam based team Ajax and the Japanese team Shimizu followed the concert. The action helped the Red Cross raise over €6 million. Source: ANP
Source: Parool Image: Google Maps
Heads-up news from the city
By Evert-Jan Pol
The Oosterpark is a popular place among ring-necked parakeets. One poplar in particular is a real favourite. Hundreds of birds spend every night there. This results in daily twitter concerts every morning and evening. ‘When the weather is fine, they start as early as 4am’, says one local resident. Besides chirping, the birds are also very good at pooping and bird droppings have coloured the adjacent street white. Anyone who walks or cycles there runs the risk of being hit by parakeets’ droppings. But it’s not always a bad thing. One of the ‘victims’ says: ‘I once heard that it brings good fortune when a ringnecked parakeet poops on you’. Source: AT5 Photo: Christine Matthews
New museum Amsterdam’s newest museum is located in a beautiful canal house at Herengracht 386. On Friday, 15 April Het Grachtenhuis (The Canalside House) opened to the public. The museum tells the story of the so-called Grachtengordel (ring of canals). In August 2010, this part of the Netherlands became an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Three million tourists visit the canals in Amsterdam every year. According to British newspaper, The Guardian, this new museum is reason enough to pay a visit to Amsterdam. If you want to find out whether that’s true or not, buy a ticket online at: www.hetgrachtenhuis.nl. Source: AT5 Photo: Het Grachtenhuis
And her name is?
Residents of Amsterdam were asked to choose a name for the drill that is going to dig the southern part of the Noord-Zuidlijn of the Amsterdam underground. Online voters had three options to choose from: Mâ€™adam, Molly and Zuidelijntje. The winning name was revealed at the end of April, just after this issue went to print. The two drills that dug out the tunnel from Centraal Station to Rokin are called Noor and Gravin (Gravin means countess and the Dutch word for digging is graven). The new drill is going to dig from the Scheldeplein to Rokin. The metro tunnel between Amsterdam-Noord and Amsterdam-Zuid should be completed in 2017. Source: ANP Image: Mike Peek
Ten years of same-sex marriages
1 April marked the ten year anniversary of same-sex marriages concluded in Amsterdam. On 1 April, 2001, at precisely midnight, former Mayor Job Cohen married several samesex couples in the cityâ€™s town hall. Ten years later, Amsterdam celebrated this anniversary with a special wedding ceremony. Current Mayor Eberhard van der Laan conducted the marriages of several gay couples. This was a very special occasion because the Mayor of Amsterdam rarely marries people. The Netherlands was the first country to allow same sex couples to marry. Since 2001, about 13,000 gay and lesbian couples have married here. Source: AT5
Some car owners in the West and Nieuw-West districts had a nasty surprise one morning when they went to their cars and discovered that a wheel was missing. Just one wheel. In a single night the tyre thief stole 30 wheels from 30 cars. But at least the thief was kind enough to leave the wheel nuts behind! His tyre stealing days are probably over. The police recently arrested a suspect who was caught red-handed by a witness. Some car owners have had their missing property returned. They can once again hit the road on four wheels. Source: Parool Cartoon: Crazie Dutch Men
unlocking the city
unlocking the city Allow our clued-up ‘dam dwellers to help you unlock this city! In this issue, all around vintage fanatic Faranak Mirjalili gives us the inside scoop on living the vintage life. BY: SARAH MOORE
Faranak mirjalili  Owner of I Love Vintage | www.ilovevintage.nl
What’s your definition of ‘vintage’? An inspiration or feeling that brings back the past. With clothes, vintage is anything from between the 1940s and the 1980s. But to me, it can also be music, paintings or decoration. Where is the best area in Amsterdam to shop for vintage clothes? De Negen Straatjes (The Nine Streets) in the Jordaan district has loads of vintage boutiques. Waterlooplein is a bit more hippy but you can find a few gems there too. Also, the monthly IJ-Hallen market in North Amsterdam is a great place for vintage finds. What about furniture and household items? The weekly Noordermarkt in the Jordaan is a nice place to find vintage furniture. Next to the market there’s a little shop called the De Weldaad that has beautiful antique and vintage pieces. There’s also a lighting store called Art Deco Amsterdam Djoeke Wessing in De Negen Straatjes. They make beautiful reproductions of 1920s-style art deco lamps. Where do all the vintage-lovers hang out at night? I love the 1920s style and 1950s rockabilly parties. Or The Bootleg, a bi-annual party that goes all out in vintage flair: a big theatrical performance with live dancers, bands and 800 guests attending. Everyone dresses up in flapper costumes and no-one knows the location till the day of the event. There’s a smaller party called Razzin’. That happens around six times per year in various locations such as Tuschinski or De Nieuwe Anita. The organisers of Razzin’ live in the twenties!
Any other ways to live the all-round vintage lifestyle? Sure! We have vintage cinemas like Tuschinski, a beautiful art deco theatre, and The Movies on Haarlemerstraat. Café Brecht is a really cute Berlin-style vintage bar filled with vintage wallpaper and furniture. For music, Café Alto is great place to go and step back in time. They have daily performances of live jazz in a cosy room where everyone used to chain smoke. It has a very vintage vibe. How’s the Amsterdam vintage scene compared to other cities? Amsterdam is more in-tune with vintage furniture and home décor than clothes. Even in cafés like De Bakkerswinkel I see old paintings and vintage furniture. Clothing wise, people are still a bit careful. They wear a lot of 80s and that’s the style here. I miss the romantic elegant feel in Amsterdam in comparison to London, Paris or Scandinavia. I Love Vintage is both a web shop and physical boutique that sells vintage clothes and accessories for women. Opened five years ago as an online vintage seller, the I Love Vintage concept has now expanded internationally and is a popular vintage shop for women in Amsterdam and abroad.
Liquorice TEXT BY Allison Guy
You may have already sampled some Dutch treats. If you’re brave you might have even tried a kroket or pickled herring. But what about liquorice?
‘liquorice’ mussels Making sweets can be tricky, and good luck finding oil of liquorice root in the corner shop. Instead, combine two classic Dutch foods – liquorice and mussels – for a dish that will appeal to tamer palates. Here, the anise in Pernod provides the liquorice flavour.
utch cuisine is not known for its strong flavours. Traditional cheeses, sweets, and fried snacks such as bitterballen are easy to like right away, more so if you’re washing them down with local beer. But if there’s one food that could be used as a citizenship test, it would be the Netherlands’ singularly salty take on liquorice. Like the accurate pronunciation of ‘Schiphol’, these candies might be for locals-only.
Dutch stores will stock their confectionery section with a handful of gum or chocolate brands, but enough varieties of liquorice to dam the Amstel. The average citizen drops two kilos of drop each year, the highest per-person-rate of any country, beating even the liquorice lovers in Germany and Finland. In the Netherlands, liquorice is either zoet or zout, and boy, does one letter make a big difference. Zoet is sweet, zout is salty, and dubbel zoute is only for the brave. Zacht identifies the soft varieties, while the other types start off so hard you’ll have to chew (and chew and chew). Some are flavoured with chocolate or honey, while a popular variation – schoolkrijt, or ‘school chalk’ – has a white, mintflavoured coating.
Salmiak is a different type of salty treat altogether. These types of drop are fortified not with table salt, but with ammonium chloride. You don’t need to a chemistry degree to tell the difference – a set of taste buds will do. Like all Dutch liquorice, you’ll either love it or loathe it.
s Try thi ! at h o m e Dutch drop might start off too intense to handle, but gluttons for flavour punishment will keep coming back for more. Liquorice is sold just about everywhere, but the author’s favourite source in Amsterdam is De Peperbol on the Albert Cuypmarkt, which sells a selection of old-fashioned Dutch sweets. Before you down bags of sweets shaped like cats, coins and cars, beware: while liquorice is good at soothing sore throats and upset stomachs, excessive noshing can lead to temporary hypertension. Serious effects for a serious sweet!
1 large leek, sliced (white and pale green parts only) 2 celery stalks, finely chopped 2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped 1 fennel bulb, finely sliced 2 kg mussels 350 ml white wine (about half a bottle) 80 ml Pernod, Pastis, or other anise-flavoured liqueur Fresh parsley, minced
instructions Heat a knob of butter in a large pot and add the leek, celery, carrots and fennel. Cover the pot and cook until the vegetables are soft (about 15 minutes). Stir occasionally to prevent burning. Add the mussels, wine and Pernod, and cover and cook until the mussels open, (about 6 minutes). Divide into four bowls and garnish each portion with a generous pinch of parsley. Serve with crusty bread to soak up the broth.
Eet smakelijk (Bon appétit!) 17
Café George By: HunGry in HollanD
In pursuit of culinary delights beyond bitterballen and frites, our expat foodie visits Cafe George: a late-night French brasserie.
s the weather gets warmer and the sun shines on late into evening, it’s increasingly tempting to spend a couple of extra hours outdoors and delay dinner by indulging in a tipple on one of Amsterdam’s outdoor terraces. The problem is Amsterdam establishments close early, which can prove restrictive when trying to enjoy the balmy summer evenings. Thus, it came as a pleasant surprise to find that Café George serves a full menu from morning till midnight. Located conveniently next to Leidseplein, the eatery provides a nice escape from the bustle of the main square. Their late-night menu has proved such a success that they’ve now opened two more similar establishments in the city: George WP in Oud-Zuid (Old South) and George Deli on Utrechtsestraat. UPSCALE DINER Café George feels like a cross between a New York diner and a French brasserie. They offer hybrid French American cuisine, lunch sandwiches, breakfast, and fine dining entrees all under one menu. While they serve diner-style food, this is by no means a rundown NY cafe: there’s no sign of grease stains on the walls or seedy characters lurking around. The interior is sleek with a modern, stylish flair. I opted to sit at their small terrace to catch the last few glimpses of sunlight. BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS I started with a glass of Chardonnay (€3) and a Croque Monsieur (€5). While such a relatively simple sandwich could easily be made at home, the abundance of butter and tasty Dutch cheese made it worthwhile ordering. The entrecôte Bearnaise for the entree was a cut of steak smothered in a flavourful creamy sauce. Though the steak could have been more tender, I was warned ahead of time that it was more of a strip steak than a filet Mignon. The mashed potatoes were smooth and full of butter, just the way I like them. FOOD ENVY My partner ordered shrimp and toast and, although it tasted great, the dish should have been filed under the sandwiches rather than wedged inconspicuously with the other upscale seafood entrees. After experiencing
‘I recommend you learn from our mistake’ The Outcome F Happy Taste Buds? Customer Service Interior Value for Money
§§§22 §§§42 §§§§2 §§§§2
Round-Up Cuisine: French, American Diner Neighbourhood: Leidseplein, City Centre Atmosphere: Busy Price pp: €10 to €40 Open: Daily. 11am-Midnight Public transport: Tram 1, 2, 5 from Centraal Station to Leidsplein Credit cards accepted: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes
the lavish steak dish, it was a little disappointing to see a few meagre slices of toast with a small shrimp pate on the side. Half way through dinner, the waitress delivered a steaming hot bowl of mussels to the What others said: table of young ladies next to us. Serious food Iens.nl: envy set in as I shamelessly drooled over at “The bad service is a big disadvantage; them taking slurps of mussels amid exclamathey’re slow and ignorant.” tions of ‘lekker’ and ‘mmm’. So though I didn’t - Tientje actually try the mussels, I recommend you that learn from our mistake and go with our neighbour’s pick. For dessert, the raspberry shake was fresh and not overly sweet. It closely resembled an Indian Lassi, perfect if you like yoghurt and light enough to finish off a three-course meal. In a city lacking in late-night eateries, Café George is a unique little spot. While it caters more to those on a budget, the food is good enough to satisfy those in search of fine dining at any hour of the day. Eet smakelijk!
Tripadvisor.com: “It was a nice night, good dinner and an overall good experience.” - palmspringsdecorator
Café George Leidsegracht 84 +31 (0)20 6260802 www.cafegeorge.nl
meet the dutch
‘I’m a voyeur’
How autobiographical is the award-winning novel Art.285b, a book about stalking? Dutch novelist Christiaan Weijts pursues the core of the human experience in order to change the world. By Benjamin Roberts
s he leans across the table, Dutch novelist and columnist Christiaan Weijts lowers his voice and whispers: ‘I’m a voyeur. Well, a cultural one anyway.’ Voyeurism is a recurring theme in the novels of this 34-year-old writer and columnist for NRC Next and De Groene Amsterdammer.
Although some of the personality traits of the obsessed boyfriend in Art.285b might resemble some of the author’s, he argues that the character in Art.285b, nor the characters in any of his novels, are entirely autobiographical. ‘However, to be a writer you need to pursue the core of the human experience, similar to a stalker.’
Stalking In 2006, Weijts became an overnight success with his award-winning novel Art.285b. The debut novel is an intriguing account that intertwines the characters of a stalker, a porn star, a pianoteacher and a dancer. The stalker in the story is obsessed with his ex-girlfriend. The title refers to article 285b of Dutch law that incriminates stalking.
Universal oneness For his political and media commentaries for NRC Next, Weijts watches various news programs to stay informed about politics, but also ‘needs to observe how politicians express themselves, and how they reach out through media to the public’. Essentially we’re all voyeurs and stalkers. Throughout history people have always been that way. ‘What the 18thcentury author Casanova did, peering from a closet, is no different to staring at someone else from a webcam today.’
‘Peering from a closet is no different’ 20
What if? ‘For me to write, I need to observe’. Writers are constantly trying to discover the universal oneness in the human experience, and fictional writing is a good channel to find that union. Writing fiction allows him to portray an alter ego. A kind of ‘what if?’ story. ‘Everybody has crossroads in their life where they had to make a distinctive choice which turned
their life in a different direction.’ Writing allows Weijts to ponder on what would have happened had he travelled the other road. After finishing high school, Weijts had the choice of either studying piano at the conservatorium or Dutch literature at the university. He chose the university and became a writer. ‘My “what-if?” story is the character portrayed in the piano teacher in Art.285b’. Change the world Most of the main characters in Weijts’ novels are artistic people. In his second novel, Via Cappello 23 (2008) it was an art historian, in his third novel De Etaleur [The Window Dresser] (2009) a ballet-dancer, and the main character in his upcoming novel will be an architect. Weijts never aspired to be a balletdancer, art historian or architect, but he finds the beauty of such artistic professions highly appealing. An architect, for example, doesn’t just want to design a building, but change the world. Every architect has an entire philosophy for making the world a better place. Case in point is Dutch architect Berlage with his plan of Amsterdam Zuid – not only did he want to build houses, he also wanted to create a new world for people and change their perception of the world around them. ‘Maybe that’s what writers want to do too.’
PHOTO: Peter Boer
meet the dutch
made in holland
maDe IN hoLLaND
Tree Track BY MORGAN CURRIE
Think about it: where did the plastic in the chair you’re sitting on come from? What about the salami sandwich you’re about to put in your mouth? Sometimes probing into the process that made the product can be disturbing – we’d rather not know. But this doesn’t dissuade Christien Meinderstma from using design to explore the mechanisms that make our modern world tick. In her second book titled PIG 05049 (2007), for instance, she created extensive photodocumentation of products from different parts of an anonymous pig called 05049 that was transformed into at least 185 non-pork products, from bullets to artificial hearts. The Eindhoven Design Academy graduate (2003) has exhibited her exploratory work in MOMA (New York), The V&A (London) and the Cooper Hewitt Design Museum (New York). In 2011 InnovationNetwork asked Christien to design an artwork that exposed the all-too-often hidden links between the natural world and human consumption. The result is Tree Track, a lifesized set of wooden train tracks complete with dozens of tiny trains, all made from a complete beech tree from the Flevopolder in the Netherlands. It was presented at the Make a Forest kick-off in Rotterdam as a testament to the need for more renewable resources and will be displayed at Radio Kootwijk this summer.
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s h o p F I L L e D w I t h oL D tat. as Y oU s te p I Ns I De , h o w e V e R , t h e s he e R D IVe R s I t Y a N D U N I QU e N e ss oF the gooD s o N o FF e R m a K e s I t F e eL L IKe Y oU ’ Ve s t U m B L e D U poN a m s t e R D am’s Ve R Y o wN a L a D D I N ’s c aV e .
By Arun Sood
Established more than 30 years ago, De Looier is the largest indoor antiques market in the Netherlands and is a haven for collectors of specialist antiques. Asian furniture is nestled up against religious art, vintage jewellery is laid out alongside silverware and old wooden toys sit inconspicuously among war memorabilia from decades past. Whether you’re specifically looking for grandfather clocks from the 19th century or merely rummaging around on a bargain hunt, there will undoubtedly be something that catches your eye.
Despite the understated entrance on a quiet corner of Elandsgracht, De Looier
is spread out across several houses and contains more than 72 stands and several bigger shops. It’s easy to get lost and be overwhelmed by the narrow maze-like corridors that link each section of the market, as I soon realised when I found myself going round in circles, passing the same eerie ventriloquist’s puppet that seemed to stare at me more intensely each time. Thankfully, if you need a break from rummaging or, as in my case, want to escape the gaze of a certain inanimate object, the market also has a cosy little café that serves drinks and light snacks throughout the day.
‘You get the feeling the sellers are proud of their collections’ Unexpected gems
Unlike many of Amsterdam’s outdoor markets, the merchants at De Looier aren’t pushy and allow you to stroll around at your own pace and appreciate the antiques without feeling pressured into any hasty purchases. De Looier offers dealers the
opportunity to rent stands on a temporary basis, ensuring that the style and variety of antiques change regularly. You get the feeling that the sellers are proud of their collections and most seem happy to chat away and tell you more about whatever they specialise in. Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays are considered ‘Family Days’ at the market and are usually the busiest days to visit. In addition to the antique stands and shops, people are invited to sell their unwanted possessions on small tables at the entrance, adding a slightly more flea market feel to an otherwise high-end selection of antiques. While De Looier is primarily of interest to specialist collectors and antique enthusiasts, the friendly and relaxed atmosphere makes it the perfect place to spend a leisurely afternoon. You might even find yourself going home with an unexpected gem or two.
De Looier Elandsgracht 109 +31 (0)20 6249038 www.looier.com
pimp my bike
Some people are riding around on a monster of a vehicle. Amsterdam Magazine is here to help them out! BY arun sood photography: sarah moore
Milagros Simarro, 26
‘i want the horror aniMation SALAD FINGERS on My bike’
affectionate name Milagros uses for her bicycle. ‘Don’t worry, I’m not a psycho and realise that my bike is an inanimate object,’ Milagros assured us. ‘I just think it’s really funny to have a name for my bicycle!’
t’s not uncommon for Amsterdammers to become attached to their bicycle. After all, when you’re joined at the crotch for many hours of the day, riding through parks and over canals together, it’s only natural that a certain kinship will develop…
While travelling around Europe with her boyfriend last year, Milagros immediately fell in love with Amsterdam and, after a few months of contemplation, decided to take the plunge and leave Buenos Aires in order to live here permanently. ‘Buenos Aires is a bit too hectic and everyone is running around all the time,’ she says. ‘Here, it’s far more relaxed and calm. I like the quieter streets, the canals and, of course, the people.’
When Milagros Simarro arrived in Amsterdam last October, it didn’t take long for her to form a bond with a bicycle of her own. After receiving a charming letter from Milagros last month, Amsterdam Magazine decided to get back in touch with the 26-year-old Argentinean to find out more about her and, more specifically ‘Marjory Stewart-Baxter’: the
BRUISED LEGS Unsurprisingly, moving halfway across the world provided Milagros with a few minor culture shocks. ‘The amount of cyclists shocked me when I first arrived here,’ she admits. ‘Back home, everyone has a car and it’s far too busy to bike. So in all my 26 years, I had never even tried to cycle.
The Pimping Artist
Milagros calls her bike ‘Marjory Stewart-Baxter’
pimp my bike
‘I might kill someone on it! But at least i’ll look good.’ But when I came here, I felt I had to give it a go!’ Using Vondelpark as her training ground, Milagros nervously began to learn how to ride a bike over the course of a few days. Despite numerous crashes, bruised legs and a mildly injured boyfriend (which she assured me didn’t matter), Milagros soldiered on and was soon cycling around the park with a beaming smile on her face. However, Milagros is quick to admit that she’s still no expert: ‘I still have a few dangerous moments and definitely can’t ride like a pro, so sometimes I have to take Marjory by the hand and walk alongside her!’ Curious as to exactly why Milagros calls her bike ‘Marjory Stewart-Baxter’, I’m amused to find out that the name was inspired by a character in David Firth’s quirky horror animation Salad Fingers. ‘You really need to see the cartoon to understand it, but I just like the name and it makes me laugh,’ Milagros smiles. ‘Perhaps the artist could even paint something to do with the animation on the bike, but I’ll just leave it up to him to decide.’ RIDE THE WAVE Our artist this month, who goes
by the name of Vik Seven, was drawn to the art world from an early age and eventually found his niche painting walls around the city. ‘As a kid I was always busy drawing something or other,’ he says. ‘One day I was cycling home and saw some guys painting fresh pieces on a wall I always passed by. I stopped, stared for a moment, and then helped them finish it. I figured it was a nice medium for sharing my thoughts and the whole creative process began.’ In addition to his own artistic endeavours, Vik also likes to help upcoming artists by running a silkscreen-print company, providing them with a platform to have their works printed at a fair price. But for the foreseeable future, Vik wants to concentrate more on his own work. ‘I do that aside from my normal job, but I’d like to focus a little more on my own art and take more time to produce the things I want to. I used to paint more and in a bigger variety. I’m just waiting for the next big wave to ride!’ Having recently discovered a new special lining tape, Vik decides to test out a few ideas on his own bike before eventu-
ally getting to work on ‘Marjory Stewart-Baxter’. After carefully blending colours with freehand spray-paint, Vik creates bold, black lines across the bike frame by peeling off the lining tape in specific areas and then uses markers to decorate the chain guard with angular shapes. After a few hours of intense painting, he finally signs his name on the front and the transformation is complete. KILLER BIKE Upon seeing her newly pimped bike, Milagros looks taken aback. ‘It’s so different! It looks like I might kill someone on it!’ she laughs. ‘But at least if I kill someone I will look good doing it!’ Marjory’s makeover proves to be a big hit with Milagros, despite her barely being able to recognise the bike at first glance. ‘It’s definitely not the Marjory I once knew, but I can still see an animated theme in the colours of the bike so I know it’s her. I like it a lot, I’m really happy with it.’ Would you like to have your bike pimped completely? Email us at firstname.lastname@example.org and we’ll see what we can do!
Memories of De VechT By: Mike Peek
De Vecht is one of the nicest ways to spend an afternoon outside the city. This is the Netherlands as you might have imagined it, but without the tacky souvenir shops and women wearing ancient costumes to please tourists.
would argue that biking along De Vecht is one of the nicest ways to spend an afternoon outside the city. De Vecht is a branch of the Rhine and used to be an important trading route in the Middle Ages, connecting Northern Europe with Germany. It helped a lot of Dutch merchants get incredibly rich. Some of them later built their houses at the river’s edge, in the quiet no man’s land between Amsterdam and Utrecht. While De Vecht has long lost its economic importance, lots of welloff Dutchies still move here when they grow tired of urban life. A word of fatherly advice: you’ll enjoy your trip much more if you realise beforehand that there are no ‘must-sees’. Just keep a leisurely pace and
look around at the picturesque houses, lakes and farmland. If you go on a weekday, you’ll have the roads pretty much to yourself. Roads that lead to awkwardly named settlements like Nigtevecht, which translates to something like ‘Fagtown’. When you’re 12 years old, that’s absolutely hilarious, I assure you.
butT-first I often visited the area at that age. My grandparents had a tiny cottage not too far from Loenen aan de Vecht, the biggest village in the vicinity. I remember entire summers spent fishing, playing football and eating homemade biscuits. I remember jumping in the lake butt-first and my grandfather calling me a ‘son of a bitch’ because I was chasing the carp away. You know, good times.
Anyhow, I hadn’t been there for years. The cottage is gone, I knew that, but everything else is still pretty much the same. One of my fondest memories is helping a farmer make his own marmalade and selling it to passersby. Much to my surprise that is still quite common here. I was delighted to see some beautiful stands offering all kinds of flavours. Just like in my childhood, there was no one tending them. If you want to buy some (and I recommend it), you’ll have to go to the house and ask the farmer if he pretty please wants to come out and accept your money. The goods (and cash register!) are up for grabs, but the whole scene looks so idyllic no one would ever dream of stealing them. I hope.
Closed on Mondays My fondness of animals may stem from those days as well. A lot of farmland naturally means a lot of sheep and cows. While the adults are often a bit grumpy, the lambs in spring are always a treat. Still unaccustomed to the sun, its warmth will inevitably make them fall asleep over and over again. Cutest thing in the world – the kind of stuff that gets 10 million hits on YouTube. Being back here brought my 12-year-old self out and I couldn’t resist repeating some boyish mischief. When the farmer wasn’t looking I used to grab some gravel and throw it at the cows. Doesn’t hurt them at all, but it takes their mind off grazing for a second. I’m not ashamed to admit I still find that funny. Nothing says ‘WTF?’ like a surprised cattle looking you straight in the eye.
Must-sees Loenen aan de Vecht was pretty boring as a child, but provides a welcome pit stop for (semi-) adult cyclists. I suggest you walk around the tiny and tidy centre for ten minutes or so and land at one of the terraces serving cold drinks and hot food. They all seem to be closed on Mondays however. At the end of your trip you’ll ride into Weesp, a proper town not far from Amsterdam. The fortress that was built to protect Weesp centuries ago is worth looking at and there are some nice monuments including the Church of Saint Laurentius. But again, there are no must-sees here, so you shouldn’t be afraid to ‘miss’ anything. It’s much more rewarding to wander around and get a feel for the region as a whole. Go, explore and create your own memories.a
Summers spent fishing, playing football and eating homemade biscuits
Getting There Take your bicycle, or rent one, and get on the train to Breukelen (30 minutes, two every hour). When you arrive, cross the Amsterdam-Rhine Canal first. You’ll see signposts at the other side of the bridge. It’s about 20-25 kilometres to Weesp, where Amsterdam-bound trains (15 minutes) leave four times per hour. But if you’re reasonably fit, just bike all the way back to the city!
1., 2., 3. Loenen aan de Vecht 4. Marmelade for sale 5. Nigtevecht 6. Weesp
What do Dutch designers Lotte van Keulen, Spijkers & Spijkers and Studio Ruig have in common? Theyâ€™re the favourite Dutch designers of model Veronique! We took her picture in Calpe, Spain. concept and production: Tommy Hagen
Photographer: Hermanna Prinsen @ Eric Elenbaas Styling: April Jumelet, apriljumelet.com Hair: Tommy Hagen @ HOO for Tommyztoko.nl Make-up: Anita Wagner, anitawagner.com Model: Veronique @ Paparazzi Location: Calpe, Spain
Bathing Suit: Calvin Klein Bustier: Lotte van Keulen Tights: Wolford
Dress: Faith Tights: Wolford Heels: Maison Martin Margiela Necklace: CK Jewellery
Photography: Valentina Vos Stylist: Amber Myhre Bosch @ Angelique Hoorn Hair: Tommy Hagen @ House of Orange for Tommyztoko.nl Make-up: Severine van Donkelaar @ House of Orange for MAC Model: Shona Lee @ Future Faces Assistant Stylist: Mariska Groothuis Assistant Hair: Shao-Lin Kretz Special thanks to Schietvereniging Tref Het Punt
Jumpsuit: Spijkers & Spijkers Heels: Maison Martin Margiela
Rings: CK Jewellery and Dyrberg Kern Bathing Suit: Kymare
Leather Jacket: Marc Cain Corset: Pleasurements.com Leggings: Gestuz
Leather Collar: Studio Ruig Trousers: EnD Cuffs: H&M
Jumpsuit: Gaspard Yurkievich Ankle Boots: Cacharel Cuff: CK Jewellery
KNOCK KNOCK THIS IS HOW AMSTERDAM LIVES COLOURFUL, EXTRAVAGANT AND JUST A TINY BIT OVER THE TOP: THE HOUSE OF TRENDWATCHER ADJIEDJ BAKAS IS LIKE A MUSEUM OF EXOTIC ART. AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE TAKES A LOOK INSIDE HIS AMAZING HOUSE AND OFFICE. BY MARIEKE VERHOEVEN | PHOTOGRAPHY: SARAH MOORE
f you’re a hypersensitive person, beware when you enter the house of trend-watcher and consultant Adjiedj Bakas. Just the hallway with its shiny golden sofa, various colourful paintings and bright red walls is a lot to handle. ‘Some of my clients joke about it,’ Bakas laughs when we sit down in his ground floor office. ‘You need sunglasses when you enter this place, they say.’ Love it or hate it, the huge house on the Sarphatipark, in the popular De Pijp district, is definitely spectacular. The four-storey building may not look particularly special from the outside, but the inside is an explosion of colour, light and more than anything: art. From Maria and Buddha statutes to a collection of china plates on the ceiling – there’s almost too much to look at. >
Thereâ€™s almost too much to look at
Art instead of children Bakas and his former partner moved in about 12 years ago. ‘I’m originally from Suriname, but moved to Amsterdam in my twenties. I’ve always lived in De Pijp, I just love this area. It’s close to the centre, but still quiet and laid-back.’ So when an older lady decided to sell this late 19th century house with views over Sarphatipark, a garden and A roof terrace, Bakas seized the opportunity. ‘It was the pre-Euro era and a very good time to buy a house. We paid around €200,000 for this place, which is unimaginable nowadays.’ The house is divided into an office on the ground floor, a dining area and study on the first floor
‘I can’t believe you spend so much money on this stuff!’
and a living and relaxing space on the second floor. The master bedroom, guest room and bathroom are on the top floor. Every hallway has it’s own colour, varying from bright red to lavender purple.‘Luckily my current partner has the same taste as me, so we never quarrel about the interior.’ But Bakas’ mother is not quite so understanding. ‘She comes over every year from Suriname to stay with me for a few weeks. When she sees all my art, she’s like “I can’t believe you spend so much money on this stuff!” But I always say: I don’t have any children, I have my art.’
A human hair coat Bakas can’t really recall when his collecting rage started, but he’s not planning to stop anytime soon. At least twice a year he travels to exotic places such as Calcutta (India) and Hong Kong to visit renowned art dealers. And there’s always something that catches his eye.‘I like ancient art objects, especially Chinese art. They carry a long history and I feel every item has a soul. Unfortunately my taste has become more expensive over the years. I always want the most valuable thing in the room.’ Since the house is pretty much at maximum capacity when it comes to art, Bakas sometimes sells pieces as well.‘I would prefer to keep everything, but that’s simply not possible.’ There are a few items Bakas would never sell. ‘I love the two Cambodian statutes I have of the God Shiva. They’re very sensual and elegant. Shiva represents chaos, but also reconstruction; I like that concept. They’re painted with a brush made of a squirrel-tail hair. Altogether very special pieces of work.’ Another eye-catcher in the office is a coat made of both monkey and human hair.‘That’s not mine, a designer wanted me to take care of it for a while,’ Bakas explains. With all these valuable items in the house, one does need a sound security system.‘We have cameras hanging everywhere. So don’t think about coming over and stealing my collection,’ he jokes. And has he ever considered throwing everything out and painting the walls white? ‘Never! I’m just simply too baroque for that.’
GREEN LUNGS of Amsterdam
Amsterdam has some lovely green lungs. Weâ€™ll show you the best places to chill in the sun, take a walk, throw a Frisbee and drink beers until the moon comes out.
nce upon a time, the idea of laying out parks in an urban environment seemed absurd. Weren’t cities built to defy nature? If you wanna see some trees, just go to the countryside! But then industrialisation happened. Cities exploded in size and most people rarely left them. They were busy making money and had everything they needed right there. Well, almost everything. Because in a by now fast-moving society people desperately craved places to unwind. All work and no play made for a lot of dull boys and girls. So we went back to our roots. Kind of. We constructed pieces of nature for our enjoyment. The keyword here is constructed. Yes, we learnt that we couldn’t live without nature, but we weren’t about to let it dominate us once again. From now on, all those trees, lawns, ponds and flowers would be safely secured in their own special areas. Waiting for us when we fancied them. At first, parks were just places to chill out in a peaceful environment. But as time passed, we added features. Tennis courts, petting zoos, playgrounds, restaurants, to name just a few. Most cities of any size now have at least a couple of these one-stop relax zones. Amsterdam is no different.
Strolling around, you may notice that Vondelpark bears a striking resemblance to New York City’s Central Park, although it’s much smaller in scale. Jan David Zocher used the ‘English Garden’ concept to create a natural looking park featuring irregularly shaped ponds, hills and trails. The result is a very attractive and diverse green area, highly popular with both locals and tourists. If the weather is good, you’ll see thousands of people relaxing on the lawns, playing sports or having a drink at one of the restaurants. In summer, the open-air theatre hosts free concerts. Between 1999 and 2009 Vondelpark was thoroughly renovated to restore Zocher’s landscaping after decades of intensive use had worn the place out. Just a stone’s throw from Leidseplein, it should be high on your list.
OPEN-AIR THEATRE AND FREE CONCERTS AT VONDELPARK
Vondelpark Vondelpark is undoubtedly the most famous park in the city. Construction started in 1864. Amsterdam was rapidly expanding at the time and a lot of citizens felt that the city had become unliveable. Among them was Christiaan Pieter van Eeghen, a wealthy merchant and philanthropist concerned with building homes for the working class. He took the lead in developing ‘New Park’, which came to be known as Vondelpark after a statue of Dutch poet Joost van den Vondel was erected there. Because municipality didn’t have any resources, Van Eeghen established a committee to raise money. Their plan was simple: buy a large piece of land, use part of it for the park and sell the remainder on the promise of that same park. Plain ground speculation really – and it worked just fine. People wanted to pay good money for a house with a view. And they still do. The surrounding properties are some of the most expensive in Amsterdam.
WE’RE NOT ABOUT TO LET NATURE DOMINATE US AGAIN! love the petting zoo and there are playgrounds, a miniature golf course and a tiny puff-pancake restaurant. In summer you can board a miniature train, taking you past all the highlights. It’s like a theme park without rollercoasters. The Valley of Rhododendrons is probably the best-known area of the park. And you’re in luck, because they are blossoming this month. Oh, did I mention the lovely rose garden and many fine art sculptures? Go. Now. Amstelpark
Amstelpark Personally though, I think Amstelpark takes the crown. Yes, it’s a bit out of the centre, but definitely worth the effort to get there. Squeezed between motorways and the Amstel river, Amstelpark was laid out for the 1972 Floriade, an international horticultural expo. Several renowned garden architects designed a small part of the park. After the expo, Amsterdam tried to keep up all the individual areas and they have done a pretty good job so far. Amstelpark is more refined than Vondelpark and walking here is a completely different experience. On your stroll you’ll pass gorgeous gardens like the Japanse Tuin, which looks like the backdrop for a heavily stylised martial-arts film. No warriors are likely to disturb the peace however as Amstelpark is a very family-oriented destination. Kids will
Westerpark As early as 1857 a humble public garden (the first in Amsterdam) opened in this area, but it was demolished 19 years later. Construction on the current park started in 1890. For decades, the relatively small Westerpark lay adjacent to the Westergasfabriek. This was the biggest coal factory in the Netherlands, spitting out toxic fumes next to innocent sunbathers. When it closed in the 1960s, some buildings were preserved because of their architectural qualities and put to use as storage. Nothing much happened until the 1990s, when plans were made to host the 2002 Floriade in Westerpark. While those plans didn’t materialise, the heavily polluted terrain of the former Westergasfabriek was still sanitised and added to the park. Today, the renovated factory buildings are primarily used by creatives and host a cinema, restaurants, exhibition halls and party venues. One of the most popular Dutch television programs, De Wereld Draait Door (a talk show about politics, media and culture), is broadcast from there as well.
While not known for its abundance of flora, the park is still one of the more interesting spots in the city. It links nature to history and culture, bursting with activity year-round. When Vondelpark gets too crowded on a hot summer’s day, a picnic on Westerpark’s big lawn might be a good alternative. If there isn’t a concert taking place, that is. R.E.M., Lenny Kravitz and Leonard Cohen have all performed here in recent years.
Other Parks a Beatrixpark was reduced in size more than once to make room for the expansion of the RAI Exhibition and Convention Centre. Beatrixpark gained a chunk of undeveloped land in 1994, but lost it again this year. Of�ice buildings are now being constructed there. a Bijlmerpark was an unattractive green ghetto in the south-east of town for many years, but underwent a major overhaul recently. It will be completed this summer.
a Gaasperpark was created for the 1982 Floriade, but unfortunately most frills were removed after the expo. It’s a relatively sober park now, surrounding a big arti�icial lake. a Park Frankendael is a blast from the past. Once a private country estate and later a nursery, it has since been cultivated as a public park. There are two posh gardens featuring sculptures and eerily symmetric hedges.
a Erasmuspark is a small park in the western part of Amsterdam. It’s named after the Dutch humanitarian writer Desadarius Erasmus.
a Sarphatipark is a small green oasis in De Pijp, perfect for a picnic. City of�icials once planned the Amsterdam Centraal train station on this spot, but later changed their minds and built it at the current location.
a Flevopark is located on the eastern edge of Amsterdam, close to the Indische Buurt and the Jewish Cemetery (which is not open to the public). It has an outdoor swimming pool!
a Sloterpark is known for its enormous lake. The Sloterplas forms the centrepiece of the before-mentioned Westelijke Tuinsteden and was created between 1948 and 1956.
Oosterpark After the (privately financed) Vondelpark proved highly popular, the city realised that it could do with some more green areas. Oosterpark was the first big, publicly funded park in Amsterdam. Designed by Leonard Springer in a style similar to Vondelpark, construction started in 1891. It has always been a favourite with locals (especially students), but tourists tend to skip Oosterpark in favour of its bigger siblings. So if you want to observe ‘Amsterdammers’ in their natural habitat, you know where to go. What else is there to see you ask? Well, lawns, trees, the usual stuff. And a lot of birds come here to breed. But Oosterpark is best known for the many monuments. There’s one called De Schreeuw (The Scream), expressing the anger many people felt after Dutch filmmaker and Islam critic Theo van Gogh was stabbed to death by a Muslim extremist in 2004. Most impressive (to me) is the Nationaal Monument Slavernijverleden, remembering the Dutch abolition of slavery in 1863. It depicts a group of slaves breaking free from their chains and celebrating freedom.
Oosterpark is about to undergo a major overhaul. Currently there are two separate parts. While the south end is all nature, the north section features some monumental buildings and the gardens surrounding them, which were closed off over the years. The fence is about to come down though, reuniting the two like longlost lovers.
Rembrandtpark Just a stone’s throw from Vondelpark and about the same size, Rembrandtpark (named after the famous Dutch painter Rembrandt van Rijn) used to be a horticultural area and is a relatively recent addition to the city’s collection of green lungs. Planned in the late fifties, it was finally laid out between 1971 and 1973. To be quite honest Rembrandtpark is probably not as interesting to tourists as other parks. It’s a fine place to chill, but doesn’t have much atmosphere or unique selling points.
WESTERPARK: TOXIC FUMES AND INNOCENT SUNBATHERS World War II Amsterdam. This is where your journey begins (bear with me, I’m trying to set a mood here). If you look around, you’ll notice that all the houses are packed tightly together. In the old city, space was scarce and had to be used as efficiently as possible. Something magical happens while you traverse the park. The buildings at the other end are totally different. They are part of the Westelijke Tuinsteden. ‘Tuinsteden’ means ‘Garden Cities’, which is a slight overstatement, but the whole area sure looks more spacious than the inner city. Built in the 1950s and 60s, these boroughs were expected to become very popular, as they signalled a new age of prosperity. Unfortunately, most people preferred the cramped historical centre to the sterile new neighbourhoods. Nowadays, the Tuinsteden are primarily inhabited by lower income households. Oh, and while you’re in the western part of Rembrandtpark, say hello to the horses at Petting Zoo De Uylenberg!
The main reason for visiting is the location. Rembrandtpark lies at the border of the ‘old’ and ‘new’ city. If you have a vivid imagination, think of it as a time machine. Entering from the Postjesweg, you’ll be at the outskirts of pre-
word on the street
On the 5 May the Dutch celebrate the end of World War II. A big memorial is held the night before to remember war victims, past and present. What does freedom mean to you? Amsterdam Magazine asks these tourist at – where else – the Anne Frank House.
Word on the street By Marieke Verhoeven Photography: Sarah Moore
‘Live the way you want to live’
Tatiana (33) & Paloma (32) From: Madrid Profession: Flight attendants
How do you like Amsterdam so far? Tatiana: ‘It’s great! We’ve never been here before, but are having the best time. Besides visiting the Anne Frank House, we haven’t really been to
any specific places. We’ve just been walking around the parks and canals. The weather has been great, almost as good as back home!’ Paloma: ‘The locals have also been so friendly. When we’ve got our noses in the city map, people just come up to us and ask if they can help.’
memory alive.’ Paloma: ‘In Spain we don’t have a specific day on which we remember the victims of WWII, but we do have one for the Spanish Civil War. That war had a much bigger impact on our country.’
How did you like the Anne Frank House?
Paloma: ‘The ability to express yourself in the way that you choose. Without the oppression of people who have a different opinion, religion or lifestyle. Basically to live the way you want to live.’ Tatiana: ‘I couldn’t have said it any better!’
Tatiana: ‘It was very impressive. We knew the story, but to see the actual house is really something else. I think it’s really important to visit these kinds of places and keep the
What does freedom mean to you?
‘Freedom is self-determination’
Molly (30) and Jessie (29)
From: She’s from the US, he’s from Wales (UK) Profession: She’s a yoga and fitness teacher, he’s an environmental analyst.
Is this your first time in Amsterdam?
Molly: ‘It is for me, Jessie’s been here before. I really fell in love with the city. It’s so pretty and organised. This trip is also quite special for me, because we
celebrated my 30th birthday here last night!’ Jessie: ‘We’ve had quite a few party nights already, so we’re a bit hungover. But the sunshine helps a lot, I’m really surprised by the lovely spring weather.’
How did you like the Anne Frank House?
Molly: ‘I liked it a lot. It was definitely a mustsee for me, since I read the book as a student. The house was actually a lot more modern than I expected. The impact is even bigger because of that, you can really relate to the story even though it’s been over 60 years.’
What is freedom to you?
Jessie: ‘Self-determination. Living your life the way that you want to, without anyone dictating to you.’ Molly: ‘Being happy and able to go wherever you want to go.’
What are your plans for the rest of your trip? Molly: ‘We’re off to a yoga class tonight. I’m a yoga teacher at home, so I’m curious to see what the classes are like here. And it will probably be a good antidote for our hangover!’
word on the street
‘To not be afraid of being yourself’
From: Ussel, France Profession: Mathematics teacher
What are you doing in Amsterdam?
‘I’m here with a few other teachers and a group of students, doing a tour of Holland and Belgium. It’s my first time here and we’ve only just arrived,
but we’re going to the Zaanse Schans and Keukenhof tomorrow. I can’t wait, because I love flowers and tulips in particular. I also like all the bikes. I think it’s a great way to help the environment and stay fit at the same time. Dutch people look really fit to me!’
How did you like the Anne Frank House?
‘It was very special. I enjoyed it a lot and so did the students. It’s quite hard to keep teenagers interested, but most of them were
all eyes and ears during the tour. I guess it’s because they can relate to the story so well. Anne Frank was their age and that makes it all very real. A historic event like World War II is something abstract for young people, but the story of Anne Frank makes it concrete.’
What does freedom mean to you?
‘To be able to voice your opinion and not be afraid of being yourself.’
wet your whistle
Café Brecht Do you have a passion for Berlinerstyle retro-furnished bars? Then search no more and drop by the quaint and cosy Café Brecht. By Caroline Goralczyk Photos Sarah Moore
alking into Café Brecht is like coming home to your East German grandmother’s living room. Dim yellow vintage lights illuminate the antique wallpapers, ancient fauteuils are dotted throughout the room, and petite porcelain cups decorate the tabletops. Located conveniently off Leidseplein, the café started as a mother/son venture after the son studied in Berlin and developed a passion for Berliner-style retro-furnished bars. Why name it after Brecht? ‘My son and I both think that Brecht was a great author who wrote beautiful texts and unique poetry,’ says the owner Sandra Houtman, who wants to shed a positive light on German culture as a part of European intellectual history.
German Delights Besides paying homage to Brecht, the café offers a variety of old school German beverages and treats. German bretzels and a broad selection of beers are a big hit with customers. ‘As you can see, the German beers are pretty popular in our café,’ Sandra Houtman smiles when pointing to the handwritten menu board and the crossedout beers. Besides specialty beers imported from small breweries in Germany, the café offers a number of other German retro brands such as Appelschorle (German apfelschorle), Fritz Cola (old-school German cola) and the hip Berlin drink Bionade. Next to a selection of fine wines and genever, the menu also offers a variety of snacks including cakes, croissants and paninis.
Open Mic Beauty Salon Along with the drinks and food, Brecht hosts a number of weekly events to keep guests entertained. Every Wednesday, the venue organises a daytime event called De Kappers where hairdressers come to the café to cut their clients’ hair in front of the vintage golden mirrors. For lovers of literature and poetry, the café organises a vorlesebuhne (reading stage) every last Sunday of the month, where passionate poets can present their own work in a cosy environment. “So wie es ist, bleibt es nicht” When asked why the café’s wall is inscribed with one of Brecht’s famous quotes, ‘So wie es ist, bleibt es nicht’ (‘Things will not stay as they are’), Houtman says: ‘We chose this quote out of Brecht’s poems because that is just how we consider life to be. Nothing ever stays exactly the same, we all go on with our lives.’ Surrounded by a collection of retro board games and vintage decor juxtaposed with the modern life outside, Brecht’s quote resonates in the air. Whether you prefer to sip a sober cup of tea or indulge in heavy German drinking, the vintage backdrop of Café Brecht will surely provide a uniquely nostalgic evening.
Drink beer, read poetry and have your hair cut!
Café Brecht Weteringschans 157 +31 (0)20 6272211 www.cafebrecht.nl Open: Sun-Thurs 12pm-1am, Fri-Sat 12pm-3am
Shhh... amsTerdam sleeps
Grand Hotel Amrâth Every night trend-watcher Vincent van Dijk sleeps in a different hotel. His goal: to find out how (and if) Amsterdam is sleeping. This Issue: Grand Hotel Amrâth.
he Grand Hotel Amrâth is a luxury five star hotel situated in a monument close to Centraal Station. It’s equipped with a great wellness centre, a restaurant and – nice to know – the mini-bar service is included. Guided tours are available to everyone, even if you don’t spend the night. Nude calendars The entrance is hidden, and decorated with images of the Seven Seas, referring to a period of trade and great prosperity in Amsterdam (ed., 17th century). ‘This hotel was built as a shipping house,’ a guide explains while showing me the paternoster lift, the door-clocks, the naval heroes, the Oriental suite and every other amazing detail of the building.
images courtesy of grand hotel amrâth
Fish and anchors can be seen everywhere: in the woodcarving, the marble and the Oriental lamps. Despite the fact that the public transport company of Amsterdam has held office here too, covering the precious wall decorations with nude calendars, it has been wonderfully preserved.
I’m climbing the marble stairs. The triangular floor plans are very complicated and it’s easy to get lost. Luckily there’s the sound of an Amsterdam tenor practising in his room to keep me company.
‘This is definitely a man’s room’ Firm and dark I find my suitcase waiting for me in a huge room with a high ceiling. There are dark wood panels all over the place and a robust oak door that connects the living room to the bedroom. The bedroom is connected to the shower room and the shower room is connected to the bathroom. This is definitely a man’s room. Firm and dark. However, it does make me feel a bit lonely. I decide to slip into a comfortable bathrobe and take the wooden elevator to the wellness centre in the basement. Here Russians are telling anecdotes and drinking vodka in the hot tub. In the Turkish bath an American and a German man are chitchatting about famous hotels: ‘A friend of mine grew up in the Waldorf Astoria in New York. Can you imagine living in a hotel?’ Since that’s what I do for a living, it’s hard not to interfere. And as I give my secret away, they leave the sauna. Having the whole place to myself, I wish I’d never have to check out again.
Grand Hotel Amrâth Prins Hendrikkade 108 +31 (0)20 5520000 www..amrathamsterdam.com Superior Deluxe €172 - €505
Afterlife 1, 2010 (c) Adam Broomberg & Oliver Chanarin
Now popular to say that “Photojournalism is Dead”, this exhibition proves otherwise by exploring the way photojournalism has unleashed through new technologies and techniques. How valuable are crowd-sourced contributions versus established Magnum photographers and how should we approach the changing idea of the auteur photojournalist? That’s what ‘antiphotojournalism’ is all about!
FOAM 1 April - 8 June Open: Wed to Sat, 1pm to 6pm. Entrance: €8 Keizersgracht 609 +31 (0)20 5516500 www.foam.org
Prayer for the Americans 1, 1999/2004 © Allan Sekula
We Decided To Let Them Say “We Are Convinced” Twice (detail), 2008 © Walid Raad, courtesy Anthony Reynolds Gallery, London
Outdoor Art in Amsterdam While there are plenty of sombre iron tributes to be found, Amsterdam can give Prague a run for its money when it comes whimsical or even downright bizarre public art. Here’s a rundown of ten of the city’s most eye-catching, albeit stationary, pieces of eye candy. By Brandon Hartley photos by marieke van den berg
The Bredero Monument
Where: Along Nieuwmarkt behind the Waag. Gerbrand Adriaensz Bredero was a poet and a playwright who lived in Amsterdam during the Dutch Golden Age. Along with penning classics such as Spanish Brabander, he was a hopeless romantic and composed several love sonnets. The object of his affections in this sardonic monument doesn’t seem too terribly impressed with his kissing skills. Her expression seems to scream ‘Get away from me, you perv!’ To make matters worse, Bredero succumbed to pneumonia at the tender age of 33 after falling through a patch of ice. He never married.
Een Man Probeert Lijn 10 Te Halen
Where: Leidsebosje, near Leidseplein In this small, tree-lined spot (the locals call it Leidsebosje) there’s a tiny lumberjack hard at work. Look up and you’ll spot him hacking away at a tree limb. Is he the creation of an artist with Banksy-inspired delusions of grandeur? Or, perhaps, a pint-sized lumberjack who was turned into stone by a witch? Nope. Houtzagertje, also known as ‘Man Sawing a Tree’, was made by The Unknown Sculptor, a presumably local artist. The sculptor created multiple public works of art for the city of Amsterdam, all under anonymity, in the 1980s and 1990s.
Where: Café Festina, Looiersgracht 40 This crestfallen statue with no discernible name can be found outside Café Festina. His world-weary eyes suggest that he’s contemplating the meaning of time or the futility of human existence while he sadly pets a stone cat. Either that, or he downed too many glasses of wine at the cafe. *Hic*
Where: The Raampoortbrug Bridge Known in English as ‘the man who tries to catch line 10’, this strange statue, consisting only of garments, is forever attempting to flag down a passing bus. Its right hand and head are missing. A tribute to the Invisible Man? The Unknown Sculptor knows!
The andré hazes statue
Where: Albert Cuypstraat This statue in De Pijp neighbourhood might look like a tribute to leisure suits and those who love them. In fact, it’s in honour of André Hazes. This Amsterdam-born crooner specialised in het levenslied, which translates to English as ‘song about life’. It’s a form of folk music that is, more or less, the Dutch equivalent of the blues and can be found drifting out of many a bar in the Jordaan district after the sun goes down. He passed away in 2004, and 48,000 people attended a wake in his honour at Amsterdam Arena.
Where: Across from the Pathé City cinema, Leidseplein These life-sized reptiles might require a double take. At first glance, they look almost real, especially on a soggy day when the skies over Amsterdam take on their usual concrete hue. Rain or shine, you can find them lounging on the grass across from the Pathé City cinema.
Where: Het Muziektheater, Waterlooplein Nothing like a relaxing night at the theatre. But what’s that thing that’s bursting out of the floor? De Violist is a large statue that serves as a memorial to Amsterdam’s Jewish community and their struggles during World War II. De Violist can be found boldly emerging from his subterranean confines in the foyer. It should come as no surprise that he’s another one of The Unknown Sculptor’s works.
belle Where: Oudekerksplein in front of the Old Church
Belle, a bronze statue, is a tribute to the Red Light District’s hard-working ladies of the night and their compatriots around the globe. Her inscription reads: ‘Respect sex workers all over the world’. The piece was commissioned by the Prostitution Information Centre’s Mariska Majoor and was placed in front of the Old Church in 2007.
Where: In Oudekerksplein in front of the Old Church On the site of this former gasworks, you’ll find several restaurants, historic buildings and seasonal events including a weekly food and crafts market. There’s also a park with a petting zoo and the Westergasfabriek Figures perched atop what appears to be a cantaloupe grown on one of the moons of Jupiter. This odd sculpture was created by Dutch artist Herman Makkink who also designed two pieces featured in the Stanley Kubrick film A Clockwork Orange.
Where: Oudekerksplein near the Old Church The Breastplate has been shocking (and tripping up) passersby since it first appeared. Embedded among the cobblestones, this brass sculpture features a hand fondling a woman’s right breast. It was removed by Amsterdam city officials after numerous complaints, among them that it was noisy. When pedestrians bumped into it or stepped on it, an ensuing echo could be heard in a basement below street level. Soundproofing was added and it was later returned to the same spot. This is another one credited to The Unknown Sculptor.
Caragh Cuddihy, 38, studied to be a nurse. She is currently a costume designer and co-owner of Scotch & Pepper.
Spryos Carrington, 29, attended chef school in Athens, Greece, and is now head chef at BiHP Restaurant, Amsterdam.
Scottish-born costume designer Caragh Cuddihy and Greek head chef Spyros Carrington have never missed an edition of fetish party Wasteland since they made their home in Amsterdam. â€˜People can be who they want to be.â€™ 65
Fetish party Wasteland:
Beyond the realm of
normal By Benjamin Roberts
Anybody turning up at the Wasteland Party dressed in anything less than ‘inappropriate’ risks being sent away by one of the ten door bitches that keep the dress code of the party high. Caragh Cuddihy provides costumes for them, and has plenty of experience with kinky rubber and leather outfits. She has been dressing dominatrices throughout the Netherlands for the last 15 years. On the other end of the spectrum there is Spyros Carrington (his last name is his glam name, paying homage to Alexis CarringtonColby, star of 1980s series Dynasty) who gets a kick out of creating his own glamorous outfit: S: I think everything beyond the realm of normal is fetish. People riding around in wheelchairs in sexy outfits, that’s a fetish I never would have thought of. C: I agree. At Wasteland you see everything you don’t see at a regular party. That is the beauty of Wasteland. People are completely free to be who they are or want to be without any restraints. In the course of the years, the parameters of ‘fetish’ have become more elastic. Now there is a wide variety of fetishes at parties like Wasteland – from the rubber and leather crowd to the obscure and feathers bunch, from water sports to the medical group, which includes ‘doctors and nurses’ and the patient walking around with a drip-bag who likes to have needles inserted. Then there is also the ‘electric stuff’ – the partiers who like to have electrical cords attached to an orifice of choice. More recently, I noticed the new ‘spit fetish’, people who want you to spit in their hand or on them. At another party I saw a couple that I thought were making out, but when I looked more closely, one had her tongue up the nostril of the other, as if she was penetrating her. I think the coolest thing about Wasteland is that you finally see straight people having a good time too.
The first time I started going to fetish parties like Wasteland was in the early nineties. It was usually a mix of straight people and gays, and the straight people were often women who liked to dress up in a dominatrix outfit and bring their ‘bad husband or boyfriend’ where he could be ‘punished’. For the gays it wasn’t so unusual because they’re used to more erotically tinted parties where ‘everything goes’ but now, it’s a great venue for straight people to dress up and let their fantasy run wild and have a good time. Wasteland is not a party for eccentrics or eccentricminded people only. It’s for everybody and anybody who wants to explore their other side. A lot of people who have a 9 to 5 office job can live out their alternative side at Wasteland. Those are the people who usually like to have elaborate costumes and lots of make-up that conceal their faces. Especially, those who are high-powered businessmen like CEOs. At Wasteland, you can see those sparsely clad businessmen in their leather gear being swatted and humiliated, for all the other partygoers to see. It’s not all leather gear though. I was watching Audrey Hepburn in the 1960s classic My Fair Lady wearing a Victorian style dress and I made that in
rubber. Big bows and everything, the only thing is that is that the decollecté is more revealing, and it fits around the waste like a glove. Daily life is constantly filled with judgment, but at Wasteland, judgment is checked in at the door, and people can be who they want to be, just for one evening. I love the outrageousness. Everything that you can imagine but really couldn’t imagine materialises there. When I went to the first Wasteland party in 1994 it was held in a small venue, the Richter, in the Reguliersdwarsstraat. The Wasteland parties are now held twice a year in a large factory in Zaandam, and usually attract around 2,500-3,000 attendees. It’s massive. Big fetish parties move around the globe like a circus. Television and music videos have exposed people to more fetishes. For example, you could see that at the parties when people came with tattoos and piercings. That’s mainstream now.
‘The coolest thing about Wasteland is. that
straight people can have some fun too’ Not latex. Even though it’s like wearing a second skin. Every line and crevice of the body is divulged. It’s concealing and revealing at the same time. For me it’s feathers, feathers and feathers. Perhaps something more. Alexis
would be proud.
MISSED THE PARTY? Come back 17 April 2012. Entrance is €47.50, tickets are available through Ticketscript and Easyticket.
Dutch a-z North’. One hundred kilometers of canals (or grachten in Dutch) divide the city into smaller islands, connected by beautiful historic bridges. The most famous canals are the Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. A canal tour is a great way to view the city from a different angle. The canals were created centuries ago and were often used for transporting goods.
Every issue Amsterdam Magazine covers the whole alphabet to help you understand what the Dutch are all about.
* 11 Cities Tour Although the Dutch love to complain about cold winters, they forget all about their grudges once the canals and lakes are frozen over. Let the ice-skating begin! [see Ice skating for more info] When the ice is thick enough (15cm), the largest speed ice-skating competition can take place. The ‘11 Cities Tour’ (Elfstedentocht) is a rare event because most winters are not cold enough. The last tours were in ‘85, ‘86 and ‘97. The tour is held in the Friesland province and the 200km course goes through 11 historic cities.
What’s Holland without cheese? Being the largest exporter, Holland offers many varieties of this yellow delicacy, such as Gouda, Edam, Maasdammer and Boerenkaas (farmer’s cheese). Make sure you take some of that gold back home!
12th century, Amsterdam became one of the most important ports in the world.
B Bicycles Some claim that there are more bicycles than people in the Netherlands. In Amsterdam, you will often see cyclists weaving nonchalantly between pedestrians. Renting a bicycle in Amsterdam might be a great idea to explore the smaller streets, but be careful if you’re not used to riding one!
Bitterballen Quite similar to the Kroket [see Kroket for more info], these little snacks are often served on special events such as birthdays, sport events or during business meetings. Of course, a beer perfectly complements this hot snack. Make sure you dip it in mustard before eating!
Clogs Ask anyone; “What’s typical Dutch?” and they often say wooden shoes. These shoes, also known as clogs, are actually no longer worn by the Dutch, but are still a popular souvenir. Originally, the wooden shoes were worn because of their protective features and were actually quite warm to wear since they were lined with hay.
If you’re searching for a hot, steaming coffee don’t be fooled; coffeeshops in Holland offer their customers something totally different. These coffeeshops will sell you (small) amounts of grass and you can smoke a joint on the premises, but only if there’s no tobacco inside, since the smoking of tobacco inside public places is banned. A small fact: it is actually illegal to sell weed, but not punishable, making it quite easy to get your stash.
D Delftware A Amsterdam Amsterdam is the capital and the largest city in the Netherlands. The city has a population of 1.4 million - quite impressive considering it began as a fishing village. In the late
Boerenkool [see Stamppot for more info]
C Canals Amsterdam is sometimes referred as ‘Venice of the
Drop Black candy, it doesn’t sound nor look attractive, but the Dutch love it! Also known as liquorice in English, Dutch drop comes in hundreds of flavours and shapes. Most varieties will taste sweet, but some can be quite salty, so beware, it’s an acquired taste.
3 kisses In most cultures it’s common to greet a friend with a kiss (or two). The Dutch however, like to add one extra. These three kisses are actually air kisses; the lips should not touch the other person’s cheek. Oh, and to avoid akward situations: men don’t kiss eachother!
done to prevent the country from flooding? Well the Dutch are very skilled at water management [see Water Management for more info] and dykes are one of those solutions. A dyke is a long wall or embankment which prevents water getting from one side to the other.
This is typical blue and white Dutch pottery that originated in the city of Delft. The original tinglazed pottery was made from the 16th to the 18th centuries.
Dykes A very large part of the Netherlands is actually below sea level, so what can be
Ah, the Dutch Treat; we all use it from time to time. Being known as penny-pinchers, the Dutch prefer to split the total bill at a restaurant and only pay their part. The Dutch Treat is also known as Going Dutch or the Dutch Date.
E Efteling Why go to Euro Disney when the magic is right here in Holland? The Efteling is Holland’s largest theme park, with fairytales around every corner. You can meet Little Red Riding Hood, trolls, elves and creatures you’ve never even seen before. There are also plenty of adrenaline rides, so it’s fun for the whole family. The Efteling is located in the south of Holland (Kaatsheuvel). Go to www. efteling.com for more info.
F FEBO Got a sudden craving for a crispy kroket or frikandel? [see Kroket or Frikandel for more info] Find a FEBO outlet and make sure you’ve got some coins on you. The FEBO is a fast food chain of automatiek restaurants, where you can buy your snacks from a wallmounted vending machine.
Frikandel This typical Dutch snack is shaped like a large sausage, but it’s rather different to the average sausage. It’s made from minced meat, deep-fried and
often eaten in a bun (broodje frikandel) or at least with a mixture of sauces. A frikandel speciaal is quite a popular variant; chopped onions together with mayonnaise and ketchup (or curry sauce) is placed in a frikandel that’s been cut open. A frikandel can be bought in a snack bar (fast food restaurant) such as a FEBO [see FEBO for more info] and is a typical party snack.
boterham (toast) with hagelslag.
G G (the pronunciation) Notable in the Dutch language, is the pronunciation of the letter ‘g’. Non-natives often struggle with this strange gurgling sound. In the northern and western parts of Holland, the letter ‘g’ is pronounced louder, a so-called ‘hard g’. In the other parts a ‘soft g’ is more common.
Gay marriage The Netherlands legalised gay marriage back in 2001, making it a popular destination for gay couples due to the tolerant attitude. Every first weekend in August, the popular Amsterdam Gay Pride event is held, attracting hundreds of thousands of gay and straight visitors. The most interesting part of this event is the canal parade, where a variety of themed boats sail along the canals.
Gezellig The Dutch word gezellig cannot be translated in any other language and is used in various ways. It means something like cosy, friendly or nice, but can also refer to time spent with loved ones or being very sociable. Things that can be gezellig are; hanging out with friends, a bruin café, drinking coffee with the neighbour or even a nicely decorated room in the house.
Going Dutch [see Dutch Treat for more info]
H Hagelslag Cloggies eat a lot of bread. They eat it at breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner. Hagelslag is a typical Dutch chocolate topping that is sprinkled on toast (preferably white) with a thick layer of butter. Children in particular are quite fond of
This typical Dutch scenario is often quite repellent to outsiders: a raw shiny silver fish, covered with chopped onions, is held by its tail and is dangled over to the open mouth. With head tilted back, the fish is eaten (again, raw) and often a second one will follow. Yes, the Dutch love fresh haring every once in a while. A haring in a white bun is also quite popular. If you’re brave enough to try, go out an find some Hollandse Nieuwe catch between May and July; this is the best type of herring.
Heineken If you’ve never heard of Heineken, you must have been living under a rock. This brand of beer is world famous and originated the Netherlands. In Amsterdam you can visit the Heineken Experience to get to know everything you could possibly want to know about this golden liquid.
HEMA This Dutch department store with favourable prices has become quite hip in recent years. With more than 400 stores in the Netherlands, HEMA (Hollandse Eenheidsprijzen Maatschappij Amsterdam / Dutch Standard Prices Company Amsterdam) offers everything from homeware to clothing, office supplies to delicious sausages (rookworst) [see Unox for more info about rookworst].
Hyves Ever tried to find a Dutch friend on Facebook? This can
dutch a-z be quite hard, because most of the Dutch are already quite busy maintaining their social networks on Hyves.nl. You might want to sign up there if you want to stalk that Dutch chick or dude.
I Ice skating Ice skating is a popular winter activity in Holland. Though the Dutch love to complain about cold weather, once the ice is strong enough, they will get their skates out and take to the ice. In larger cities, small skating rinks will be created to offer a safer alternative to natural ice. These small rinks are often quite gezellig [see Gezellig for more info] and you can enjoy a hot cocoa and other delicacies at the rink side. Speed skating is also a very popular sport in Holland [see 11 Cities Tour for more info].
[see Kibbeling for more info]. The word ‘lekkerbek’ can also imply a person who really appreciates food.
M Mayonnaise This emulsion of oil, vinegar, lemon juice and egg yolk is often served as a dipping sauce for fries or chips.
N Nachtwacht (Night Watch)
The most famous Dutch painting, by Rembrandt van Rijn in 1642 [see Rembrandt for more info] is actually called The Company of Frans Banning Cocq and Willem van Ruytenburch. The picture is a group portrait of a division of the civic guard and is renowned for its size (363 x 437cm). You can see the Nachtwacht in Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum.
J Jonkie This Dutch gin (also referred to as Jenever) is a strong (35%+) liquor made in Holland and Belgium. There are two types of Jenever; old (oude) and young (jonge). The difference is not in age, but in the distilling techniques.
Kibbeling Cloggies are fond of fish and often treat themselves to a little fish snack. Kibbeling consists of deep fried chunks of cod topped with spices. These nuggets are served with specific sauces and taste quite similar to a lekkerbek [see Lekkerbek for more info].
Kroket The Dutch may not be famous for their haute cuisine, but they sure know how to snack! When you’re near a snack bar or a FEBO, go grab yourself a kroket; a crispy, sausage-shaped meat roll filled with (hot!) minced meat. The taste is quite similar to bitterballen [see Bitterballen for more info] and should be served with mustard and, if preferred, in a white bun.
Lekkerbek is deep fried cod and literally means ‘tasty beak’. The taste is quite similar to kibbeling
Nieuwjaarsduik On January 1, thousands of people take a dip in the icy sea at Scheveningen, wearing nothing but a bathing suit, to celebrate the start of the new year. Afterwards, a hot pea soup provided by Unox [see Unox for more info] is truly a well deserved treat.
Known in English as the ‘Dutch doughnut’, Oliebollen are traditional Dutch treats that are especially popular around New Year. The deep-fried dough is often covered in powdered sugar and comes in different varieties. In the holiday season, oliebollen stands pop up around the country to satisfy the winter dessert cravings.
P Pannekoeken (Pancakes)
These Dutch pancakes are slightly different then the American ones; they’re thinner and larger in size. Also various ingredients may be added to create surprising flavours. You can eat a basic pancake with ‘stroop’ (sugar beet syrup) or powdered sugar or go for the traditional ‘spek’ (bacon) pannekoek.
Poffertjes These mini pancakes are a traditional treat and taste quite similar to pancakes, but have a firmer and spongier texture. Typically, poffertjes are served with powdered sugar and butter, but other toppings are also available.
(New Year’s Dive)
Kaaskop is a (not so nice) nickname for a Dutch person. It literally means ‘Cheesehead’.
When visiting Holland during the European Cup and World Cup football, or on Queen’s Day [see Queen’s Day for more info], the streets and people will be wearing their national colour with pride.
Orange is the national colour of the Netherlands. The association originated from the name of the royal family ‘Oranje-Nassau’.
Holland is a very open-minded country and legal prostitution is not hard to find. Brothels and red light districts are often touristic sights. In these red light districts, women are displayed behind windows, where you can pick your favorite and negotiate the deal. Typically, red light (or purple light for darker ladies) is switched on to show the passerby that there is sex for sale. When in Amsterdam, ‘de wallen’ area is a must-see. [see Wallen for more info]
Q Queen’s day Queen’s Day celebrates the birthday of the Dutch queen and is held on 30 April (unless that’s a Sunday, in which case it’s celebrated the day before). It’s not actually the birthday of the current Queen Beatrix, but her mother, Queen Juliana, but the tradition remains. This day is known for its ‘free market’ (vrijmarkt), where everybody is allowed to sell things on the streets. The streets and the people are coloured orange [see Orange for more info]. It’s probably one of the most gezellige [see Gezellig for more info] times in Amsterdam.
R Red Light District [see Wallen for more info]
Rookworst A typical Dutch sausage, made
with ground meat, mixed with spices, which is stuffed into a casing. While it literally means ‘smoked sausage’, it’s not truly smoked. This sausage is a typical ingredient of stamppot [see Stamppot for more info] and is often bought from HEMA [see HEMA for more info] or the supermarket. Unox is also a popular brand of rookworst [see Unox for more info].
S Sinterklaas While Christmas is widely celebrated in the Netherlands, children generally look forward to Sinterklaas more. This yearly Dutch feast is celebrated on December 5 and holy man Sinterklaas (who has a lot of similarities to Santa Claus) is the central character. The holy man and his helpers the ‘Zwarte Pieten’ [see Zwarte Piet for more info] will sneak through the chimney and leave behind jute sacks filled with presents for wellbehaved children.
Stamppot When it’s getting chilly outside, the Dutch like to eat stamppot for dinner. Stamppot is a mixture of boiled potatoes and vegetables topped with gravy and served together with meat such as rookworst [see Rookworst for more info]. Popular stamppotten are Boerenkool (farmer’s cabbage), Andijvie (endive), Zuurkool (Dutch sauerkraut) and Hutspot (potatoes mixed with onion and carrot).
T Tulips If you come to the Netherlands in the spring, you can’t miss the tulip fields in the countryside. The Dutch love their flowers and the tulip is their most prized possession. Home to the world’s largest tulip garden, Keukenhof is a nice place to see the colours and varieties of tulips.
U Unox This consumer product brand is presented as something typically Dutch. Their rookworst [see rookworst for more info] is often eaten during winter times and Unox is a prominent sponsor of the 11 cities tour [see 11 Cities Tour for more info] and the nieuwjaarsduik [see Nieuwjaarsduik for more info].
South Holland. The 19 historical working windmills are on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list and are among the most popular tourist destinations in the country.
Wooden Shoes [see Clogs for more info]
(Dutch East India Company) The VOC (Vereenigde OostIndische Compagnie) was a chartered company established in 1602. It was the first multinational company and the first that handed out shares. For decades this monopolistic concern dominated the global spice trade, transporting spices using large ships (you can see a replica ship at the Scheepvaartmuseum in Amsterdam). The VOC representatives used violent methods to gain respect from the native population. In the first years of the 1800s the VOC slowly fell apart.
W Wallen De Wallen is the largest and most famous red light district in Amsterdam. It is a network of alleyways and canalside buildings where approximately 300 windows are used by prostitutes [see Prostitution for more info]. The prostitutes sit behind a window in a room with a red light. This is a major tourist attraction in Amsterdam and the area also includes a number of sex shops, peep shows, and a sex museum.
X xxx You might presume that the triple X sign represents the erotic scene in Amsterdam. Well it could. But when you ask a Dutch person what XXX means, they will probably say three kisses [see 3 Kisses for more info]. The XXX is quite similar to the American xoxo (hugs and kisses). These three letters are also to be found everywhere on the streets of Amsterdam, such as on amsterdammetjes (steel bollards). In that case the crosses are part of the city’s crest, and are actually Saint Andrew’s Crosses - not that sexy, but of historic value.
Y Yiddish Many words from the Amsterdam dialect originate from the Yiddish language. Examples are mazzel (lucky), mesjogge (crazy), nebbisj (unlucky person), achenebbisj (poor, messy) and koosjer (in order, all ok). Before WWII, Amsterdam was home to a large group of Jews whose mother tongue was Yiddish.
Z Zwarte Piet Water management Since large parts of the Netherlands are below sea level, the Dutch have become very inventive when it comes to keeping the water out. Their systems are utilised globally and range from dykes and dams to well-engineered automatic floodgates.
Windmill The Dutch are famous for their windmills and have a long tradition of using windmills for land draining, corn milling, saw milling, and more. There are currently 1200 windmills that still survive today. The largest collection of windmills are located at Kinderdijk in
Sinterklaas’s [see Sinterklaas for more info] companions are loved by children. The funny looking characters with colourful costumes and blackened faces are subject to much debate. Foreigners are often shocked by their appearance. While it is a very old tradition, the fact that their faces are covered in black make-up and they are Sinterklaas’s helpers is unacceptable to some.
SEX and de stad
CONFESSIONS OF A PROSTITUTE WHAT’S IT LIKE TO BE A WORKING GIRL? LAUREN, AN AMSTERDAM PROFESSIONAL, REVEALS HER DEEPEST SECRETS.
tHis issue: HOw it ALL stArted - By Lauren Wissot -
Life is just one long winding twist of fate. That’s the thought I have every time I walk through Vondelpark, which inevitably reminds me of how I got into my current line of work in the first place. I originally came to Amsterdam years ago as a postuniversity tourist, lured by the usual promise of sex and drugs and some cool canals. In addition to dutifully visiting the Van Gogh Museum and Rembrandthuis my friend Jennifer and I made the pilgrimage to the Red Light District, a coffeeshop that didn’t sell coffee and to the Sex Museum where we posed for photos with the blue movie version of Snow White and The Seven Dwarves. By the end of the week I’d yet to get my fill of adventure so I decided to stay a few days longer while Jennifer strapped on her backpack and headed to France to sample some fine wine served up with the requisite dose of Parisian attitude.
‘That was the last time i wore a bondage restraint as jewellery’ STRAY DOG All alone in de stad one glorious autumn afternoon I decided to take a break from my nonstop sightseeing and soak up some sunshine. That’s how I found myself sitting on a bench in Vondelpark, reading a book I’d brought along for the plane ride, minding my own business when a fight between two drunk homeless guys broke out on another bench nearby. A crowd gathered and soon chaos ensued so I got up to move to a quieter
spot. That’s when a nondescript blond Dutchman approached to ask if I knew what had started the melee. I told him that I didn’t know – nor did I really care – and continued walking towards the Filmmuseum. With surprising chutzpah the guy kept pace with me, introducing himself as Gerry and asking if he could take me for a coffee to continue the conversation (that I thought I’d finished). I declined but he persisted so I suddenly found myself trotting ever faster through the park, trying to deﬂect his questions with curt answers and ultimately rid myself of this stranger that was like a stray dog. KINK CONNAISSEUR And that’s when it happened – one of those Holland downpours of monstrous proportions, the kind where the sky goes from clear blue to hurricane grey in the blink of an eye. Stuck in the middle of Vondelpark with nowhere to run for shelter Gerry grabbed my wrist, stopping me in my tracks to look directly into my eyes, a triumphant twinkle in his own. ‘Come on, have coffee with me – at least until the rain stops!’ he pleaded with a smile, which instantly melted my cold veneer. It seems the weather was on his side. Or maybe it was on both our sides. As I would later learn Gerry was a kink connoisseur like myself and well connected to Amsterdam’s sex industry. It wasn’t my naïve tourist aura that attracted him so much as the makeshift leather bracelet that was wrapped around the wrist he’d grabbed. That afternoon marked both the beginning of my life as an Amsterdam call girl, and the last time I wore a bondage restraint as decorative jewellery.
Photos courtesy of Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder
UM E S U M CK CHE
Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder, or ‘Our Lord in the Attic,’ looks like a typical canal house, but the plain exterior hides a secret. Inside is nestled a threestorey church and a reminder of Amsterdam’s more intolerant past – in the middle of the city’s most permissive neighbourhood.
By Allison Guy
olden Age Amsterdam might have boasted the world’s first multinational corporation, the Dutch East India Company, but it was less progressive in terms of religion. Starting with the Alteration in 1578, the heavily Protestant city seized all Catholic assets, including the monumental Oude Kerk in Dam Square. New laws forced Catholics to go underground, or, in the case of Ons’ Lieve, several storeys above it. German-born trader Jan Hartman built Het Hart between 1661 and 1663, hollowing out the upper storeys of three adjacent houses to fit rows of pews, an organ and an ornate altar. The merchant evidently took care of his soul but not his wallet, leaving his family deep in debt after his death, and forcing them to sell their house.
The church might have been clandestine, but it certainly wasn’t secret, unless Hartman’s Protestant neighbours thought it common practice to host Sunday brunch for 150 friends. So long as it was kept out of public sight, the city fathers turned a blind eye to the goingson at Het Hart. Even after the 1798 legalisation of Catholicism, the hidden church remained at the centre of Catholic life in Amsterdam until the construction of St. Nicholas Church in 1886. Two years later, a historical society saved the building from demolition and converted it into a museum, making it the second oldest in town after the Rijksmuseum. Fresh Paint on the Pews The museum winds through the Hart> man family’s private residence, up
Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder Oudezijs Voorburgwal 40 +31 (0)20 6246604 www.opsolder.nl
museum check through the church, and down to the second house where the priest lived. The family’s canal-side rooms are decorated in period detail, although with a Febo and a sex show across the street, the view sure has changed.
The Verdict: Nickie Stevens - UK I’ve been to Amsterdam many times before, but this is my first time in the museum. It’s a shame that it’s being restored. It would have been much better to see it finished, although you still get an idea of Dutch life. I don’t think it’s worth it to come visit right now. There are better examples for the money, although it was half-price, which helped. The audio tour was okay, and it worked very well. I would definitely recommend it once it’s been restored.
Unless you’re a particular fan of construction zones, the museum’s rich history outweighs its visual impact. At the moment, most of the museum’s art and relics have been replaced with plywood scaffolding. Conservators are overhauling the building to return it to its roots as a parish church, including painting the white interior in aptly named ‘cardinal purple’. Renovation will be complete in 2013, with a brand new building next door. Until then, you’ll have to use the audio guide to fill in the gaps left by construction.
Sabine Lange and Matthew Morin - Canada It was quite interesting historically – a glimpse into 17th century life. We didn’t know it was under construction, but it was definitely worth it to go. Considering the restorations, it was very well done. In some ways the construction made it easier to see, since there’s less to take in, and you get to see the building laid bare. We’ve been to the Rijks, Van Gogh and the historical museum, where you see the past through relics. Here, it actually is the past. It would be interesting to come see it again when it’s finished.
If you’re after pure Golden Age opulence, Ons’ Lieve will leave you wanting, even if no other canal house museum can boast an included church. The state of repair, however, gives insight into another side of the building’s history. After all, it was exactly 350 years ago that Hartman bought his home and future place of worship, as full of potential then as it is now. g
Peggy and Mike Mulcare - USA It really got to you how historical it is. We were a little disappointed by the restoration, but it is motivation to come back to Amsterdam. It was good that admission was reduced to half-price. It was worthwhile to come see the interior of the house, since you can’t go into most of the places along here.
Value for money: 3/5 Waiting time in line: Minimal Entrance: Adults €8. €4 for children between 6 and18. Children under 5 are admitted free. Free for IAmsterdam card and Museumkaart holders. Entrance is discounted on days when restoration work restricts access to parts of the museum. Comments: Located in a stretch of the Red Light District devoted to less celestial pursuits, the museum is a fascinating look into the lengths people will go to practice their religion. After navigating the comparatively small rooms of the Hartman residence, it’s a thrill to emerge in a grand church, however unfinished. Due to a massive restoration project, the museum has been largely emptied of its art and furniture, making
the inexpensive audio guide necessary for context. Listening to the complete tour will take about an hour. There are better options in the city to get a glimpse of 17th century life, but the museum’s unique historical narrative can’t be beat. Wheelchair-friendly: The church is accessible via a lift, but many of the rooms in the two houses can only be reached by staircases. English-friendly: Audio guides and informative text are in both Dutch and English. Opening hours: Mon-Sat from 10am-5pm. Open Sundays and public holidays from 1pm-5pm. Closed on 30 April and 1 January.
THE RAT PACK
CAPTURED By Michiel Döbelman/Savage Productions
Cirque exentrique Cirque Exentrique – artists throwing a party with a different theme each time. Make sure you dress up! Chicago Social Club next event: Every first Saturday www.thehospages.com
2 april >
legends: our 4th anniversary LEGENDS is the Netherlands’ most successful soul party that honours legendary artists in both sound and vision. Special theme nights focus on great artists such as James Brown, Michael Jackson, Soul Train, and Motown, brought to you by DJ Manga, VJ Supreme Cuisine and MC Fit. paradiso
15 april > 76
Bungalow 8 next event: Friday 6 May (Every first Friday of the month)
1 april >
Photos: Bungalow 8
If there’s a party going on, special reporter Michiel Döbelman is there. Make sure you don’t miss out next time!
In the mid 60s, The Rat Pack was an infamous and talented group of artists featuring Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr. You couldn’t join this group – you had to be chosen. Now, Amsterdam has its own Rat Pack. Official members are Baggi Bagovic, Marc Benjamin and Skitzofrenix. The Rat Pack nights are hosted by MC Gee.
meet the parents
Oldskool is the Newskool! Wanna Meet The Parents of true house music? Every second Saturday of the month resident DJ Bart Thimbles and guests dish up beats, grooves and tunes in one uplifting mix â€“ strictly vinyl! club nl Every Saturday next event: 21 May with DJs Jaydee & Bart Thimbles
< 9 april
Michiel DĂśbelman has deep roots in the Amsterdam nightlife scene. His company Savage Productions has organised events for Amsterdam Fashion Week, Armani, BlackBerry and others. www.savage-productions.nl
By Blair Larkin
/MAYGIGS Sunday 1 Rebellion, Melkweg Punk festival featuring Cockney Rejects, UK Subs, The Defects, Fire Exit and more. 12:00, €35 + membership Tim Hecker & Ben Frost, Bimhuis An evening of electronic and ambient music with Tim Hecker and Ben Frost. 20:30, €18 LTJ Bukem, Sugar Factory 20:00, €14 Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 14:30, Free Brazilian Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 19:00, €4 Photo: Kenneth O’Halloran, Ireland
World Press photo The best photojournalist’s images from around the world are now showcased in Amsterdam. The non-profit organization World Press Photo was founded in 1955 and is globally known for organizing the world’s most famous press photography When: Until June 20 contests. This year, the photo exhibition Where: Oude Kerk of World Press covers the earthquake Admission: Varies in Haiti, the crowd at the Love Parade in Duisburg, the drug war in Mexico and www.worldpressphoto.org/ much more.
Monday 2 Lior, Paradiso Australian singer/songwriter Lior has a reputation as being one of Australia’s top live performers. 19:30, €10 + membership The Original Wailers An explosive mix of roots, rock and reggae from the legendary band best known for their work with Bob Marley. 20:30, €26.50 + membership Staton, Paradiso Dutch band who combine soul with elements of rock and funk. 22:30, €8 + membership Funeral For A Friend & The Blackout, Melkweg A night of post-hardcore and rock with the two Welsh bands. 19:30, €17 + membership Jeff ‘Tain’ Watts Trio, Bimhuis 20:30, €22
Tuesday 3 Thomas Dybdahl, Paradiso Melancholic and soulful songs from the Norwegian singer/songwriter. Support from Susanne Sundfoer. 19:30, €16 + membership Chris Smither & Peter Mulver Folk and blues from the two American singer/songwriters. 20:00, €9 + membership Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 21:00, €4
Wednesday 4 Photo: Daya Cahen
You are all individuals! You Are All Individuals! is an interesting exhibition that looks at the relationship between individuals and groups. Using photography, sculpture, painting, video and sound, five artists explore topics such as: group behavior, fanaticism, When: 7-12 May patriotism and religion with the aim Where: Castrum Peregrini of inspiring their viewers to reflect Admission: Free upon the power of the crowd and the www.castrumperegrini.org individual.
Alela Diane and Wild Divine, Paradiso Enchanting folk music from the singer/ songwriter known for her intense, warm vocals. 19:30, €16.50 + membership Gabby Young and Other Animals, Paradiso Eccentric eight-piece British band who combine gypsy, folk, rock and jazz. 22:00, €10 + membership DJ Snoopadelic, Paradiso Legendary rapper Snoop Dogg drops in for a DJ set under the name DJ Snoopadelic. 23:30, €15 Boyce Avenue, Melkweg Puerto Rican-American acoustic rock band that play a lot of covers as well as original
material. 20:30, €15 + membership Kaki King, Bimhuis American guitarist and singer Kaki King’s music fits somewhere between folk and alternative rock. 20:30, €15 Pieter de Graaf, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6
Thursday 5 Habib Koite & Bamada, Melkweg Get ready to groove to a night of African rhythms with Malian singer Habib Koite and his band Bamada. 20:30, €22 + membership Sven Ratzke Presents the German-Dutch Night, Bimhuis A theatrical performance from an array of artists, actors and performers from Germany and the Netherlands. 20:30, €18 Rob Kietselaer, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6 De Nazaten & Toninho Ferragutti, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:30, €10
Friday 6 Joseph Arthur, Paradiso Contemporary singer/songwriter known for his unique solo live performances that incorporate a number of distortion and loop pedals. 19:00, €10 + membership Brown Hill, Paradiso Amsterdam soul singer Patrick Pierau aka Brown Hill takes to the stage with an eightpiece band. 20:30, €12 + membership Frankie & the Heartstrings, Paradiso British indie band who are touring on the back of their debut album Hunger. Red Snapper, Sugar Factory 20:30, €15 Marc Ribot & Ceramic Dog, Bimhuis 20:30, €18 Fiesta Cubana, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 22:00, €5
Saturday 7 Fitz & the Tantrums, Paradiso Soul-influenced indie pop. 20:00, €10 + membership Slim Cessna’s Auto Club, Paradiso A mix of country blues, gospel and gothabilly from the American band. 22:00, €9 + membership Lilian Viera & Rogerio Bicudo, Bimhuis Acoustic salsa with vocalist Lilian Viera and guitarist Rogerio Bicudo. 20:30, €18
Sunday 8 Lenka, Paradiso Australian singer/songwriter. 19:00, €9 + membership Brandt Brauer Frick, Paradiso Contemporary classical music meets techno when this German trio takes to the stage armed with an array of acoustic and electronic instruments. 21:30, €14 + membership
D, Melkweg Japanese hard rock band. 20:30, €25 + membership Trio M, Bimhuis 20:30, €18 Brazilian Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 19:00, €4
Monday 9 Little Dragon, Melkweg Swedish band Little Dragon take to the stage at Melkweg this month with their unique mix of ambient synth pop, electronica and soul. 20:30, €13 + membership Peter Case, Paradiso Expect a variety of songs from the American singer/songwriter who has 13 albums to his name. 19:30, €10 + membership Kurt Wagner & Cortney Tidwell, Paradiso Two country musicians perform together as KORT. 21:00, €15 + membership Monday Match, Bimhuis Musicians and dancers collaborate to create improvisational performances in front of a live audience. 20:30, Free
Amira & Merima Kljuco, Tropentheater 20:30, €17
The Phantom Four & Arguido, Paradiso A collaboration between Dutch surf band and Rudeboy of the Urban Dance Squad. 21:30, €9 + membership Tricky, Melkweg British trip-hop musician and Massive Attack collaborator Tricky comes to Amsterdam on the back of his latest album Mixed Race. 20:00, €25 + membership The Rifles, Sugar Factory An acoustic concert from the Britpop band. 20:00, €13 Three Trapped Tigers & Handsome Furs, Bitterzoet 20:30, €12 Sylvie Courvoisier & Mark Feldman Quartet, Bimhuis 20:30, €18 Judith Nijland Trio, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6 The Amsterdam Saints, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:30, €6
Queens of the Stone Age, Paradiso The critically acclaimed hard rock band return to Amsterdam. 21:30, €40 + membership Don’t Forget Gaza, Melkweg A hip-hop benefit concert to raise funds for the crisis in the Gaza strip. 18:30, €12.50 Fucked Up, Melkweg Canadian punk band who apparently live up to their name with their out of control live shows. 20:30, €13 + membership Christian McBride & Inside Straight, Bimhuis 20:30, €23 Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 14:30, Free Orquesta Bembe, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 20:00, €7a
White Cowbell Oklahoma, Paradiso Canadian rock band known for their explosive live shows. 20:00, €9 + membership Panic! at the Disco, Melkweg Pop rock band Panic! at the Disco come to town shortly after releasing their third album Vices & Virtues. 20:00, €20 + membership Gorki, Melkweg Popular Flemish rock band. 20:30, €15 + membership Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 21:00, €4 Karnatic Lab, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:00, Free
Philip Glass, Melkweg One of the greatest composers of recent times, Philip Glass is joined on stage by Days and Nights Festival Players. 20:00, Admission varies The Dodos, Melkweg American indie rock band known for their unique approach to using instruments in live shows. 20:30, €14 + membership Jeroen van der Boom, Heineken Music Hall Popular Dutch singer. 20:30, €36.50 + service charge Zeus, Paradiso Canadian indie rock band. 20:00, €8.50 + membership Eke & Sol 12, Bimhuis 20:30, €16 Karsu Donmez, Tropentheater 21:00, €23
Wednesday 11 Raul Midon, Paradiso American singer/songwriter and guitarist who plays a mix of soul, R&B, blues and folk. 19:30, €20 + membership Britta Persson, Paradiso Swedish indie pop musician. 22:30, €8.50 + membership Bob Marley’s Legends Alive Tour, Melkweg A tribute to Bob Marley with Maxi Priest, Brinsley Forde, Ashwin Jaydee and more. 20:30, €35 + membership Palos y Cuerdas, Bimhuis An evening of Colombian music with trio Palos y Cuerdas (sticks and strings). 20:30, €16 Coco Bongo & the Bonfire Ranch of Love, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 20:30, €5 David Buckingham, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6
Cubop City Big Band, Tropentheater 20:30, €23
Monday 16 Rakim, Melkweg With one of the most classic hip-hop albums of all time and 25 years of experience under his belt, to say Rakim is a legend in the hip-hop world would be an understatement. 21:00, €12 + membership Atari Teenage Riot, Paradiso German digital hardcore group with support from Kap Bambino. 20:15, €16 + membership Kurt Vile & The Violators, Bitterzoet American roots rock singer touring his new album Smoke Ring For My Halo with his backing band. 21:00, €10
art amsterdam The RAI is the place to get your art fix this month with Art Amsterdam, the largest contemporary and modern art fair in the Netherlands. The fair will feature work from 133 galleries in Europe, North America and Asia and will include a wide range of photography, paintings, sculptures, video art and drawings.
When: 11-15 May Where: Parkhal in the RAI Admission: Varies www.artamsterdam.nl
Tuesday 17 Erik Truffaz Quartet, Paradiso Trumpeter Erik Truffaz mixes elements of hip-hop and rock with jazz. 19:00, €15 + membership Animal Collective, Paradiso Experimental rock with hypnotic rhythms. 19:30, €20 + membership Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:30, €4
Manic Street Preachers, Melkweg After 25 years and ten albums the Manic Street Preachers are still thrilling audiences around the world. 20:00, €26 + membership Jeroen van der Boom, Heineken Music Hall Popular Dutch singer. 20:30, €36.50 + service charge The Ploctones, Melkweg Dutch band Ploctones are known for their explosive mix of jazz, funk, rock, Latin, punk and bluegrass. 21:00, €12 + membership Villagers, Paradiso Critically acclaimed Irish band. 20:30, €15 + membership Ambrose Akinmusire Quintet, Bimhuis 20:30, €18
The Tallest Man on Earth, Paradiso Swedish folk musician who has been compared to Bob Dylan. 19:30, €16.50 + membership Gabriel Rios, Melkweg Puerto Rican musician who has become popular in Belgium after collaborating with several Belgian musicians. 20:30, €17 + membership Toro y Moi, Bitterzoet Producer Toro y Moi’s music is considered to be chillwave but is influenced by everything from hip-hop to folk to house. He is coming to Amsterdam to perform songs from his second album Underneath
The Pine. Toro y Moi became famous for his interesting mix of sounds, styles and genres. 21:00, €10
Photo: National Comite
4 en 5 mei Every year on 4 and 5 May, the Dutch remember and pay tribute to Dutch citizens and members of the armed forces who have died in wars and celebrate the end of the German occupation of 1940 to 1945. Throughout the city there will be music, film, debate, and lectures. The majority of the music events will take place on the 5th with a big open air concert in Dam square at 14:00 and a performance from the Gelders Orchestra on the Amstel in the evening. When: May 4-5 Where: Throughout Amsterdam Admission: Varies www.4en5meiamsterdam.nl
Photo: Peter Griffin
/MAYGIGS Peter Evans Quartet, Bimhuis 20:30, €13 New Solution, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6
Photo: Rock and Run
Rock and run If you enjoy running to music then this could be the event for you. Rock and Run is a fun-run through the Jordaan and along Amsterdam’s canals with live music being played at various stages along the course. The event caters to people of all fitness levels with the choice of 6, 12 and 18 kilometre runs. In addition to the When: 29 May live music venues along the route, there will be a concert held after the event at Where: Jordaan area the central stage at the Noordermarkt Admission: €15-€20 featuring bands The Memphis Maniacs, www.rockandrun.nl Rigby, Jah6 and more.
Wiz Khalifa, Melkweg American rapper whose popularity has exploded recently. He is touring on the back of his latest album Rolling Papers. 23:00, €14 + membership Miami Horror, Paradiso Australian electro-pop band who are influenced by dance pop artists of the 70s and 80s. 20:00, €9 + membership Gang Gang Dance, Melkweg Heavily synthesized experimental music from the American outfit. 20:30, €15 + membership Esben and the Witch, Bitterzoet Three-piece indie rock band from England. 20:30, €10 Comicoperando, Bimhuis A tribute to British singer/drummer Robert Wyatt. 20:30, €20 Herman Ruiz, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6
Friday 20 London Calling, Paradiso First night of London Calling featuring The View, Ariel Pink’s Haunted Graffiti, Braids, Holy Ghost and more. 18:30, €17.50 + membership Amon Amarth, Melkweg Melodic death-metal band from Sweden. 19:00, €20 + membership Friendly Fires, Melkweg The English dance punk band are touring their new album Pala. 20:30, €14 + membership Dance Gavin Dance, Sugar Factory American experimental post-hardcore band. 20:00, €10 Jasper Blom Quartet, Bimhuis 20:30, €16 Juan Jose Mosalini Quintet, Tropentheater 20:30, €23
Photo: London Calling
London Calling This year, the famous two day festival promoting new bands from the UK and the US, is taking place in Paradiso 20 and 21 May. Ever since the first festival was held in 1992, bands like Bloc Party, Franz Ferdinand and Florence & The Machine were owning the stage. This year, London Calling presents a wide range of bands including Twin Shadow, Foster the When: 20 & 21 May People, Holy Ghost!, The Crookes, Cloud Where: Paradiso Nothings and many more. The passeAdmission: €17.50 partouts for both days is already sold www.londoncalling.nl out, day tickets are still available.
London Calling, Paradiso Second night of London Calling featuring Flash Guns, Cloud Nothings, Wild Beasts, Cults, Summer Camp and more. 18:30, €17.50 + membership 3OH!3, Melkweg American electronica duo best known for their 2009 single Don’t Trust Me. 20:00, €12.50 + membership Pete Philly, Melkweg The Dutch hip-hop producer and musician performs songs from his latest album Open Loops. 21:00, €15 + membership Oh Land, Bitterzoet The Danish singer/songwriter is touring on
the back of her eponymous second album. 20:30, €10 King Britt, Toko MC 22:00, €12 Gerald Clayton Trio, Bimhuis 20:30, €18 Noshad-Nishad Ali & Mastana Party, Tropentheater 20:30, €23
Sunday 22 Guano Apes, Melkweg Popular German alternative rock band who have just released Bel Air, their first album in eight years. 20:30, €20 + membership Art Brut, Bitterzoet German and English indie rock band. 21:00, €12 Harold Lopez-Nussa Trio & David Sanchez, Bimhuis Cuban pianist Harold Lopez-Nussa performs with Grammy-winning saxophonist David Sanchez. 20:00, €20 Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 14:30, Free Jonas Ganzemuller Quintet, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:00, €6 Razia Said, Tropentheater 15:00, €23
Monday 23 Caribou, Paradiso An intriguing mix of electronica and sixties music from the Canadian musician and his live band. After their hit tracks Odessa, Sun and Melody Day, Caribou (which was initiated by recording artist Daniel Victor Snaith became famous worldwide and has ever since performed in many venues all over Europe. 19:30, €17.50 + membership The Jezabels, Paradiso Australian band who play a mix of indie pop, rock and disco pop. 22:00, €8.50 + membership Bimlab 2, Bimhuis A night of improvised jazz with bassist Pablo Nahar and reeds player Yedo Gibson. 21:00, €6
Tuesday 24 Mercury Rev, Paradiso Expect to hear predominantly songs from the 1998 album Deserter’s Songs from American rock band that formed more than 20 years ago. 20:30, €22 + membership DJ Shadow, Melkweg With his debut album Endtroducing, DJ Shadow started his career in 1996 and has ever since brought his special mix of instrumental hip hop into many clubs around the world. The legendary DJ and producer comes to Amsterdam with his unique brand of instrumental hip-hop. 21:00, €21 + membership
Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 21:00, €4 Wicked Jazz Sounds Band, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:30, €6 Zita Swoon Group, Tropentheater 20:30, €23
Wednesday 25 Explosions in the Sky, Paradiso Expect an enthusiastic show with skillful guitar work from the instrumental postrock band. 19:30, €16.50 + membership The Black Box Revelation, Melkweg Belgian garage rock duo whose sound varies from raw rock ‘n’ roll to more bluesy songs. Their second album will be released this month. 20:30, €13 + membership Jack DeJohnette Group, Bimhuis Jazz drummer Jack DeJohnette is considered one of the most important jazz musicians of the last 40 years. He is best known for being a member of Miles Davis’ group. 20:30, €28 A Picknick in Central Park, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 20:00, €6 Zita Swoon Group, Tropentheater 20:30, €23
Thursday 26 Tribute to Carole King, Paradiso Local musicians play tribute to Carole King and her classic album Tapestry. 20:30, €20 + membership The Rural Alberta Advantage, Paradiso Canadian indie rock band The Rural Alberta Advantage are back in town shortly after releasing their second album Departing. 22:00, €8.50 + membership Santiago Lara Quartet & Mercedes Ruiz, Bimhuis Flamenco guitarist Santiago Lara comes to the Netherlands for the first time with his quartet and dancer Mercedes Ruiz. 20:30, €20 Laura Vane & The Vipertones, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:30, €10 Arshad Ali Khan, Tropentheater 20:00, €19
Friday 27 Origenes, Korsakoff Don’t miss this underground electro party with Square, der Process, Sonocracy and Determinators. 22:00, Free Group Doueh, Paradiso Western Saharan group influenced by western rock and Mauritian rhythms. 22:00, €17 + membership WhoMadeWho, Sugar Factory Danish indie rock/dance-punk band. 20:30, €13 Bad Touch, Bimhuis 20:30, €16
Saturday 28 Oscar D’Leon, Paradiso Venezuelan musician who achieved
international success in the 80s for his salsa music. He is now considered one of the great singers of Caribbean music. 20:30, €37.50 + membership Joris Teepe & The NY-Groningen Art Ensemble, Bimhuis 20:30, €18 Juliana Braga e Convidados, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 22:00, €8 Sulukule Roman Grubu, Tropentheater 20:30, €23
Sunday 29 Rock ‘n Run See the featured event at the left page. Jazz Juniors & Jazz Focus Big Band, Paradiso A concert featuring two of the most talented young Dutch jazz ensembles. 16:00, €5 Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw, Paradiso The award winning jazz orchestra returns to Paradiso for another great show. 20:00, €15 Marike Jager, Paradiso Melancholic pop from the Dutch singer/ songwriter who is celebrating the release of her new album Here Comes The Night. 21:00, €12.50 + membership Selah Sue, Melkweg Popular Belgian singer/songwriter. 20:00, €15 + membership The Adicts, Melkweg Punk rock with catchy melodies from the British band. 20:30, €16 + membership James Farm, Bimhuis 20:30, €32 Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 14:30, Free Dominic J Marshall Quartet, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall) 21:00, €8 Romengo, Tropentheater 15:00, €17
Monday 30 Moby, Melkweg It’s been almost 20 years since Moby stepped onto the electronic music scene and he’s still packing out venues around the world with his impressive live shows. During this event, Moby will promote his newest album Destroyed, which will be in stores 16 May. 20:30, €32 + membership PJ Harvey, Paradiso The talented singer and multiinstrumentalist takes to the stage with songs from her latest album Let England Shake. 20:30, €39 + membership David Kweksilber Big Band, Bimhuis 20:30, €18
Tuesday 31 PJ Harvey, Paradiso 20:30, €39 + membership The Leisure Society, Paradiso Melancholic folk and rock from the talented British band. 22:15, €8 + membership Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 21:00, €4
BY THOMAS SCHLIJPER
20 April, 13:05 Brand Dirk Ochsepark Normally at this time of year you pull your scarf a bit tighter around your neck, but this month teenagers were jumping from a bridge on the artificial island IJburg. When they asked me to join them, I politely declined. Summer in April – I’m loving it.
Every day Thomas Schlijper takes a picture. Check out his blog at www. schlijper.nl and see what the beating heart of Amsterdam looks like. Here’s a sneak preview!
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