AltHme

ALT HME alternative housing for living boldly

SPRING 2021

Running a Destination B&B Sailing the World’s Coast

A LETTER FROM OUR EDITOR

For most of my childhood, I believed that everyone lived in neighborhoods. It wasn’t until I found myself in the library, speed reading the first chapter of Nim’s Island by Wendy Orr that I discovered the alternative ways in which humanity finds a home. Nim lived on an island, in a treehouse that her father constructed from island materials and a few other off-island provisions from special trips to the mainland. Yes, I had seen Tarzan, but this was a lifestyle that could realistically be chosen and not just stumbled upon. I was entranced.

Thus began my constant need to learn more about alternative homes. Social media gives you a bit of a snapshot of these lifestyles, but I believe an interview with these bold and beautiful people, each with their own unique life map, is the best way to get an introductory snippet to various lifestyles. It’s so easy to see the filtered screen-delivered story on social media, but in a print magazine there’s more space for the full gamut of emotions to be shared.

Print is a free speech platform where people can share their mind uninterupted and unswayed by all the outside noises yelling at us daily.

Alt Hme is my platform to share the lifestyles of the wonderful people behind various homes. Whether it’s a treehouse or a boat, I believe that the people who inhabit it choose what to make of it, physically and emotionally. It’s the way that the same blueprint of a house feels so different on another street, with different lighting and a different rotating cast of creatures coming in an out of the door. For now, I live vicariously through the people interviewed with this magazine.

In a recent cold snap and power outtage, we invited some new friends into our warm apartment so that they were not sleeping in their own 9° rooms and without power for 48 plus hours. The next morning, I awoke to a very cheerful and thankful atmosphere in the community kitchen and imagined that this must be a tiny bit of the feeling that Pia, a bed & breakfast owner featured in this issue, feels when facing excited and adventurous strangers at her breakfast table each morning.

I hope that what you find in these pages inspires you to reach out and stretch your assumptions about what a home is. I know I always look forward to the first time I call a new place “home.” The feeling sneaks up on you until you realize it just feels like the right time to bequeath the title.

Cheers and thanks for reading!

Mad am e Editor

SPRING 2021 featured interviews

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HOME & HOSPITALITY Pia Tokiyama of La Betunia Bed & Breakfast talks about turning the business you run into your home and lifestyle.

La Betunia’s outdoor patio is featured on our cover this quarter.

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SETTING SAIL An Insider’s Guide to Sailboat Life with Emily & Adam, who are based out of England but are currently sailing the seas on Hot Chocolate.

HOME & HOSPITALITY Pia Tokiyama of La Betunia Bed & Breakfast

THIS SUMMER I had the pleasure of meeting Pia Tokiyamo, the owner and operator of La Betulia Bed and Breakfast in Oaxaca, Mexico. La Betulia is walking distance from Oaxaca’s Centro Histórico and features eight guest rooms and one two-bedroom serviced apartment. I stayed here with a group of food bloggers, chefs, and food aficionados during a week-long retreat with Eat. Drink.Cook.Mexico and am so happy to have discovered this little gem.

Pia Aiko Tokiyama

“In three short years, Pia and her husband have built a successful operation that draws tourists from all over the world”

4 – Pia Aiko Tokiyama

Guests at La Betulia convene daily for a delightful outdoor breakfast that features a yogurt bar with homemade yogurt, granola, jams, seasonal fruit, pan dulce, and fresh juices. Breakfast specialties include huevos rancheros, enfrijoladas, huevos en salsa, quesadillas, tamales, and other Mexican favorites.

As impressed as I was with the accommodations during my stay at La Betulia, I was even more impressed by its young owner, Pia, who formerly worked in investment banking before constructing and managing one of Oaxaca’s hottest new B&Bs. In three short years, Pia and her husband have built a successful operation that draws tourists from all over the world. They’ve also managed to keep the business afloat despite the negative — often exaggerated — international media coverage regarding Oaxaca by offering affordable accommodations, excellent service, and leveraging social media to reach customers.

As if that weren’t enough, they founded Fundación En Vía, an organization that combines education, micro-finance, and responsible tourism to help combat poverty in Oaxaca. I was so impressed by the group tour that I recently partnered with Fundación En Vía and donate a portion of my cooking class, workshop, and product proceeds to support the creation and growth of income-generating businesses among Oaxaca’s female entrepreneurs.

A fresh produce delivery from a local farm waits to be converted into breakfast for the guests.

Pia Aiko Tokiyama – 5

Classic mexican architecture abounds in each nook and cranny of the B&B.

6 – Pia Aiko Tokiyama

Pia’s Goals this Year 1.

Create the best Día de los Muertos travel experience for visitors.

Homemade yogurt and granola with fresh fruit.

2.

Finish remodeling Central Xochimilco (her new location).

Huevos rancheros, al estila Oaxaca.

3.

Gain new skills that I can apply toward growing my business!

Native cacti line the bath to the check-in desk.

Pia Aiko Tokiyama – 7

About the Business: La Betulia Bed And Breakfast What was the initial inspiration for you to open La Betulia Bed and Breakfast?

A couple of years ago, when my hubby and I were still dating, we used to enjoy taking a weekend “off” by going on a staycation and exploring the city where I lived.

One of those weekends, we found ourselves in a wonderful bed and breakfast in the heart of Mexico City, and we fell in love with it so much that after that weekend we stayed at B&Bs on all of our subsequent trips. Eventually we decided to open our own in Oaxaca, where my husband is from.

What factors do you believe have helped contribute to your success as a business owner?

For sure my team! Building the right team and hiring the right people is key to managing a successful business. The women who work at La Betulia are great employees and kind women – they keep the day-today operations running smoothly and make our guests feel welcome.

I also believe that knowing how to reach customers and promote our business online (through our website, social media, etc.) has been key in helping us grow in the short amount of time we opened our doors for business. A lot of B&Bs struggle when tourism is low in Oaxaca, but we always have a steady flow of guests.

What sets La Betulia apart from other bed and breakfasts in the area?

Many of our guests have told us that they love to come “home” to La Betulia. Our location is central, but secluded so guests feel like they can get away from the hustle and bustle of the Centro Histórico, but they can still walk to the most popular sites in town. Location has been key and making guests feel welcome, as if they were coming back to their own home.

What is one of your proudest accomplishments as a business owner?

Top – The outdoor courtyard at the B&B. Bottom – Each seating area is it’s own peaceful tableau.

8 – Pia Aiko Tokiyama

There are many moments when you start your own business that make you feel proud, but for me it’s always the best when a guest leaves happy, grateful, and sometimes even becomes a friend!

What challenges are you currently facing as a business owner in Oaxaca?

Oaxaca gets a lot of negative media coverage because of the events related to the teacher protests. Summer is supposed to be one of our busiest seasons – we have nice weather, our annual cultural festival La Guelaguetza, and many other events that take place in the summer. Sadly, this year many tourists were hesitant or even afraid to visit our beautiful Oaxaca even though it’s one of the safest places to visit!

What’s one of your favorite places to grab a cocktail in Oaxaca?

Zandunga’s Mango Huini is one of my favorite cocktails in the city, followed by all the Mezcalinis from Casa Oaxaca.

How do you stay connected to your Japanese roots living in Oaxaca?

I have a couple of Japanese friends in town. We meet up for cooking dates where we make Mexican food one time, and Japanese the next.

Pia’s Daily Routine Walk us through a typical day in your shoes.

Every morning, I start my day early, around 6:30 a.m. My husband and I take our dogs for a walk and then head back

Pia redecorates the community areas of the B&B weekly; she put this out as we arrived.

home to get ready and start our day around 8 a.m. at La Betulia, where we have breakfast and meet with guests.

Later in the afternoon I usually make a quick stop to supervise the last details of Central Xochimilco, which is our new project that’s currently under construction.

Then in the evening, I religiously take a yoga class, stop by La Betulia, and usually grab dinner and drinks with the hubby and some friends. And I always end my days the way they begin: walking my dogs! I love them, and little by little, I think they’re making their way into my husband’s heart, too.

Pia Aiko Tokiyama – 9

The dinning area right before breakfast gets set upon.

10 – Pia Aiko Tokiyama

Besides working for yourself, what do you enjoy about being your own boss?

I truly enjoy the flexibility, although there’s a great amount of responsibility that comes with being your own boss. Being an entrepreneur oftentimes represents more sacrifice than freedom.

What’s one of your favorite traditional Mexican dishes?

Chile de agua relleno de picadillo.

When you’re not managing La Betulia, what do you like to do for fun?

I love to eat, travel, volunteer and practice yoga. I would say I travel with my stomach, if that makes any sense. Like Nora Ephron said, “I don’t think any day is worth living without thinking about what you’re going to eat next at all times.”

“I would say I travel with my stomach”

Want to learn more?

La Betulia Bed and Breakfast Manuel Cabrera Carrasquedo 102 Colonia Jimenez Figueroa Oaxaca 68070, Mexico www.labetulia.com Fundación En Vía Avenida Juarez 909 Oaxaca de Juárez Oaxaca 68000, Mexico www.envia.org Article by Dolores Wiarco Dweck

Pia Aiko Tokiyama – 11

SETTING SAIL

An Insider’s Guide to Sailboat Life

The full beauty of Emily & Adam’s beloved sailboat home.

Have you ever wondered what living in a sailboat is like?! In this article we’re interviewing Emily, who is currently living the sailboat life with her boyfriend. She shares how to get started, how to purchase a sailboat, how to kit it out to make it livable, the ups and downs of this lifestyle, and more.

First of all, tell us a bit about yourself. What made you decide to start living on a sailboat?

I’m Emily, an ex-primary-school-teacher from England, and I live with my boyfriend Adam on a small sailboat in Sicily. Nearly a year ago now, we quit our jobs and started working towards a lifelong dream—to learn to sail, buy a sailboat, and travel the world.

12 – Emily & Adam

When I first met Adam, we both dreamed of leaving behind our ‘normal’ jobs to travel the world. After careful consideration, we decided it wasn’t right for now and that we should make the sensible decision to focus on our careers and become more financially stable. Adam helped me prepare for a job promotion I was desperate for, and I worried endlessly about how unhappy he was with his London commute.

On a Monday morning in March, I called Adam in tears — I didn’t get the job. I arrived home that evening to Adam popping open a bottle of bubbly. “We’re celebrating!” he declared.

I looked at him, confused. Had he not been listening to our earlier conversation? “To the

boat isn’t registered to your home country, you can change the boat’s registration on all the paperwork you need to do when you first buy the sailboat, and you can pay the VAT too — you’ll just need to make sure you budget for that.

beginning of our adventure!” he toasted.

That was the sign he needed. We would never be financially stable, travel would always be a risk.

We just needed a push, and this was it.

How did you choose your sailboat?

We decided to buy a small sailboat about eight months before we actually bought one. It was a long process of research, travelling to see potential sailboats, and speaking to lots of people who have sailed before.

What kind of boat is it?

We knew we wanted a ‘blue water cruiser’, something we could take across oceans if we decided we were brave enough! But, we quickly realised that pretty much any sailboat can do that, it just depends on your personal opinion as to what is best for the job. Our list of ‘must haves’ changed significantly through the process and the boat we ended up with (a Kadey Krogen 38’ called Hot Chocolate) had a very unusual design, but ticked a lot of boxes for us — full keel, heavy displacement, protected propeller and rudder, under 38 feet.

How (and where) did you purchase your boat?

We found our sailboat online. On paper, it was exactly what we were looking for (and a good price), so we called the owner and put down a deposit to show we were serious. Then, we packed up our lives into two suitcases, flew to Sicily and hoped it was the right boat for us! If it hadn’t been, we would have flown on to Greece.

We bought our Kadey Krogen 38’ in Sicily from an individual seller — there were no brokers involved. It wasn’t a very conventional sale. We came out to see the boat and the owner let us live on it for a month before we bought, while we arranged a survey. There was a lot more trust involved than a standard sale!

The biggest problem with buying abroad is getting to see the boat. When you’re on a budget, flights and accommodation can really add up, and getting a survey done on a boat only to find out it isn’t right for you is an expensive and time-consuming exercise.

Our survey ended up costing about £800 ($1,015 USD) for the actual survey and then another £400 ($505 USD) for the boat to be lifted out of the water, so you have to be pretty serious about buying before you get one done. You can get it cheaper but there are no recommended surveyors in Sicily so we made the decision to fly one in from the UK. That way there weren’t any language barriers either.

Did you end up fixing up / kitting out your sailboat to make it your own?

We haven’t met anyone so far that hasn’t had to do work on their boat — from brand new boats to one-hundred-year-old ones. If you buy a boat you need to get handy, or throw lots of money at someone who is!

Was it an easy process?

Purchasing was a pretty straightforward process for us, but it can depend a lot on where you buy, who you buy it from, and what paperwork the boat already has (as with everything on a boat, nothing is a simple answer!)

Can foreigners purchase a boat abroad?

The sailboat Hot Chocolate in the marina.

Buying a boat that is already registered to your home country, with VAT paid and lots of paperwork on board makes things a lot easier. Our boat was registered to the UK and the VAT was already paid, so it was a fairly easy process. If the

Emily & Adam – 13

What improvements did you make?

We spent the first few months getting to know everything about the boat. We went through all of the things onboard, tried to get rid of things we won’t need, looked through all the old paperwork, and made very long to-do lists.

It would take too long to list all the jobs we have done so far, but here are a few to give you an idea: We have replaced a lot of the out of date safety equipment (life raft, life jackets, lifelines, fire extinguishers, smoke and gas alarms, flares, handheld VHF), it’s amazing how long it takes to research these things! We’ve replaced the leaking taps, the leaking shower and several leaking hoses. We’ve repaired the anchor windlass, fitted the sails, repaired the fridge and replaced some of the electronic systems.

There are still some big jobs to do, replacing the propeller being one of the biggest as we will need to get the boat out of the water to do that and it’s still a big unknown for us.

“There is always a little voice in the back of your head telling you to watch out, but I guess that’s also part of what makes this lifestyle so rewarding”

14 – Emily & Adam

Emily & Adam’s first open ocean sail trip.

Where in the world are you currently living the sailboat life?

We’re currently in Sicily, at a marina called Marina di Ragusa. We arrived here in February and felt at home straight away.

I think what makes this marina so popular is it’s population of liveaboard boats. There is a real sense of community here and everyone has been welcoming and friendly since day one. There is always an event happening, from the liveaboard happy hour drinks twice a week, to yoga classes and one-off classes in things like celestial navigation and rope splicing. I’ve even been doing some tutoring for the liveaboard kids here.

Are you living on the sailboat full-time? Or, do you have a land base as well?

We’re living on the sailboat full-time. We have family in the UK that are always happy to have us home (for a week or two!) but Hot Chocolate is our home and we wouldn’t want to be anywhere else right now.

What are the downsides of the sailboat life?

The biggest problem I have had with sailboat life is living with the anxiety of the unknown. Even the most experienced sailors we have met run into trouble at some point and had to make decisions in a snap second. Those decisions could be the right ones, or they could be the wrong ones with disastrous consequences. There is always a little voice in the back of your head telling you to watch out, but I guess that’s also part of what makes this lifestyle so rewarding. There’s also the pump flush toilets, but I won’t go into that now…

Emily at the helm in a recent cold snap.

What are the upsides about living on a boat?

The simplicity and freedom. Living in a sailboat is a bit like glamping. You are forced to get outside no matter what the weather, meaning you don’t miss those stunning sunsets, rainbows or dramatic thunderstorms. Even more than that, the weather determines your decisions. When you’re living in a sailboat you learn to read the weather

and feel it in a way I never did when I lived in a house. Also, you have to be careful with how much water and electricity you’re using, which has taught me so much about the environment and how little I need all those things I had come to rely on when living in a house.

Emily & Adam – 15

Luckily, we’re able to earn an income while living on a sailboat. Adam works remotely in digital marketing for a tech company. When he left his job in London, someone from an old company he worked for got in touch and offered him a few days of work each week, which is perfect for this lifestyle and adds a little to our very limited funds!

After work, we get sucked into boat jobs.

After that, in the evening we are either passed out in front of a film, joining friends on their boats for dinner, or treating ourselves to a drink at the local bar for happy hour. Once we get out sailing our days will consist of passage planning, exploring tiny islands, fishing and swimming. And the work and boat jobs will have to fit in around that!

What are some things you wished you knew before you decided to live this lifestyle?

Emily never misses a sunset –the boat has no curtains!

Then there is the freedom. If you don’t like where you are, you just take your home and move it elsewhere. Plus, the feeling you get when you sail into the ocean and the signal dies on your phone is pretty great — it’s just you and miles of sea, and all the pressures of life just wash away.

There’s also dolphins. And sunsets. And stars.

And fresh fish. Wait, how many words do I have for this question?!

What does a “day in the life” look like on your liveaboard boat?

Currently, not all that exciting! Once we get out sailing for the summer things will change a lot.

But for now, a typical day in the marina consists of waking up with the sunrise (we have no curtains yet!) and drinking delicious Italian coffee.

Then we will do a few hours of work — Adam for his remote job and me, teaching primary level English at the marina.

16 – Emily & Adam

Apart from wishing I’d done it sooner? I would say that one of the biggest things people don’t think about before moving onto a boat is the maintenance involved. We had a kind of head start here, as when I met Adam he was living on a motorboat on the River Thames (London house prices + cost of commuting = desperate measures). He was in the process of completely doing it up, so we learnt a lot about how boats work. If you had asked me two years ago what a bilge pump or a stern gland was, I would have thought you were referring to some awful medical procedure, but now these terms are part of everyday life.

Still, say the word “engine maintenance” and I’m already thinking about what I’ll make for lunch.

Believe me, I have tried very hard to get my head around gaskets and alternators, but even though it’s new to Adam as well, he seems to pick it up so much quicker than I do — which can leave me feeling a bit useless...

“If you had asked me two years ago what a bilge pump or a stern gland was, I would have thought you were referring to some awful medical procedure”

(continued from page 16) It’s been important to find jobs that I enjoy (and can do) that make a difference around the boat. Knowing that this is quite normal (luckily I’ve met lots of people ‘in the same boat’) and getting my head around it before moving onboard would have saved a lot of arguments and frustrations in those early days!

Are there any necessary qualifications or certifications you need for living on a sailboat?

Again, this is a tricky one as a lot of it depends on your own country’s regulations and the regulations of the countries you are visiting.

For example, in England you don’t need any qualifications to sail your own yacht, but if you sail it over to Greece then chances are they will want to see your ICC (International Certificate of Competence).

What about visas for various countries? Travel or boat insurance?

We don’t need visas for being in the EU (yet!) but there are all sorts of other payments such as cruising tax, etc. You are also required to show your insurance documents, so having those printed and ready is important. Boat insurance really doesn’t cost that much (similar to insuring a house) and we have spoken to numerous people who have claimed on it, so for us the peace of mind it brings is well worth it!

Hot Chocolate gets a survey for damages

Emily & Adam – 17

A Sicilian Marina sunrise.

18 – Emily & Adam

How can people follow in your footsteps and buy a sailboat of their own?

We read the book Get Real, Get Gone cover to cover and can’t recommend it highly enough to anyone thinking of buying a sailboat. It delves into what type of sailboat to look for and why, lots about different safety feature options and some great general advice for people thinking about living the sailboat life.

From there, we decided on a budget and scoured the internet for boats — you really don’t need as much cash as you’d think to get a small sailboat that’s ready to live on.

Do you recommend any particular anchorages, marinas, websites, or popular destinations to check out?

We used YatchWorld and BoatShop24 the most, but eBay and Facebook (for sale by owner groups) are also great places to keep an eye out. Start searching for your small sailboat as early as you can. We looked seriously for about six months, and went to see four different sailboats, but we know people who have searched for much longer.

We came to see this boat on a bit of a whim, and decided that if it wasn’t right for us, we would fly straight to Preveza in Greece — which has a huge boat yard and hundreds of boats for sale.

We were going to rent an Airbnb there until we found the right boat for us. Since living in the marina here in Sicily, we have met several people who bought from the boat yard in Preveza, so if you’re itching to get going that might be a good place to head!

Any final advice for people on the fence about living in a sailboat?

Get out there and try it! If you don’t already sail, there are lots of Airbnb sailboat stays where you just stay on someone’s boat in a marina for your holiday. Adam and I did this on one of our first dates. It will show you quite quickly whether you can imagine living and sharing such a small space, and whether you like the lifestyle.

It definitely isn’t for everyone, but saying that, there will be some aspect of living in a sailboat that you can enjoy. Sunbathing on deck with a cocktail in hand, getting knee-deep in bilge filth, and catching fish for dinner are all part of sailboat life. Unfortunately, you don’t get to choose one or the other!

Where are you sailing to next?!

We have just got back from crewing on someone else’s boat over to Greece and fell in love with it, so in the next few weeks we hope to sail over there ourselves. There are hundreds of tiny islands to hop between, meaning no long passages and plenty of safe anchorages. We figured this would be the perfect place to get in lots of practice sailing just us two.

Thanks so much for sharing your story with us Emily! We’re sure this will inspire others to just “go for it” and start living a freer lifestyle — aboard a sailboat!

If you want to learn more about Emily and Adam, you can check out their blog, Two Get Lost, or their Instagram and Facebook pages (@twogetlost ) Article Written By Dariece Swift

Emily & Adam – 19

WHAT’S INSIDE two featured interviews with owners of alternative homes

Pia Tokiyama of La Betunia Bed & Breakfast, pictured on the cover

Emily & Adam who are currently sailing the world on Hot Chocolate

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