Initially I started buying and selling curtains and tablecloths. I spent the money that I earned from that on my hippie lifestyle. Then I left for America and came back to The Netherlands when I was 21 years old. At that time I wanted more structure in my life, that is when I opened my first shop. It was a tiny place where all the clothes were in washing baskets. People could make their choice, I would weigh their purchases on baby scales and the price was determined by the weight. However, I found that this type of retailing was really only suitable for a small group of customers. Most people want their clothing on a hanger and they did not understand my concept at all. So I moved to a bigger location and, with a little luck, I really got the knack of the vintage business.” Marijke: “When I was 18 I left school and moved to London to work a as an au pair. There I was inspired to start my first shop. I called it ‘Lady Day’, after Billie ” Holiday’s nickname. Later I changed the name to ‘Lady Day’. Back then I was surrounded by people who wore secondhand clothing all the time. In Amsterdam at that time this was not a common occurrence, most people regarded second hand clothing as dirty. With the arrival of the hippie period came dresses with floral prints and Dad’s suits were appearing in a lot of wardrobes. When I came back to The Netherlands I started working in a shop owned by the father of Laura Dols. He sold all kinds of eastern hippie items. When he discontinued his store, I continued on my own and started filling the shop with fine quality secondhand clothing. I would go to the flea market at Waterlooplein early in the morning, buy my precious finds, wash them in the afternoon, iron them in the evening and the next morning they would be hanging in the shop sparkling. In the beginning I only stocked dresses. Now, working with an associate, I have expanded the range of merchandise to include men’s suits. Compared to floral print dresses suits can be boring, but if you find a perfect one they sell instantly.”
“I guess I give clothing
new lease of life
recognisable and I make sure everything is intact. I have a really strong vision when it comes to buying, I guess I was simply born to do this!” Marijke: “The idea is that if you come in looking for something nice, you can leave the shop in a complete outfit. At Lady Day you can find a perfect blend of old and new. For instance, we sell new basic T’s, second hand T’s are usually faded through wear, but the new T-shirts are still made with the same fit as the ones from the 50’s, inspired by Marlon Brando.”
Can you share the secret of the source of your collections? Laura: “My own style preference is the 50’s, the
start of a revolutionary period in the United States. That is one of the reasons why my shops carry a lot of American clothing, it is country from which plenty of beautiful things come. You can find the clothing here as well, but chances are they will be worn out. After the war, the fashion industry was shaken up by Dior’s ‘New Look’ in 1947. The ‘New Look’ symbolised the start of the looms working again, so that material could be made again. He had
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brought us a new silhouette that was feminine and beautifully crafted. The buttons were applied and the finest rolled hems were handsewn with needles that are not even available any more. I am really fond of those old techniques, so that is what I always look for when it comes to buying for the shop.” Marijke: “When I just started, most of the clothing came from America. Now I believe European sources are much better, the American part of the collection is now just a small percentage of my stock. I never buy at wholesalers, which sell in bulk, by the kilo. I avoid Dutch sources, most of our clothing comes from France and Belgium, and I also like to visit new countries for surprising things. There was a period when quite a bit of vintage came from eastern Europe, but you can never be sure of the sellers. A good source can be out of business the next month.”
When did you fall in love with vintage? How did it all start? Laura: “It all started for me with a stall at the
Waterlooplein flea market in Amsterdam, where my partner and I started selling hippie clothing.
STYLE - VINTAGE AMSTERDAM
Is it true that the big names in fashion visit your shops for inspiration? Marijke: “Yes they do and they obviously find it as well.” (smiles) “I met Tommy Hilfiger’s sister and later saw exact copies of the clothing he had purchased here in his collection. Of course he altered some of it, the fabric was not the same, but it had the original cut. We also sold white leather sneakers that later popped up in the collections of
VINTAGE AMSTERDAM - STYLE
YOUR BIGGEST BANG
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