SENIOR MANAGER OF MEMBERSHIP & MARKETING | Jon Page, jon@americancraftspirits.orgi
DIRECTOR OF MEETINGS & EVENTS | Stephanie Sadri, stephanie@americancraftspirits.org
ACSA ADVISORS
STRATEGIC COMMUNICATIONS | Alexandra S. Clough, GATHER PR LEGAL | Ryan Malkin, Malkin Law, P.A.
PUBLIC POLICY | Jim Hyland, The Pennsylvania Avenue Group STATE POLICY | Michael Walker, The Walker Group, LLC
ACSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS, 2025-2026 PRESIDENT | Jordan Cotton, Cotton & Reed (DC) VICE PRESIDENT | Jaime Windon, Windon Distilling Co. (MD)
SECRETARY/TREASURER | Tom Bard, The Bard Distillery (KY)
EAST
Jordan Cotton, Cotton & Reed (DC)
Greg Eidam, Sugarlands Distilling Co. (TN)
Becky Harris, Catoctin Creek Distilling Co. (VA)
Adam Polonski, Lost Lantern Whiskey (VT)
Colin Spoelman, Kings County Distillery (NY)
Jaime Windon, Windon Distilling Co. (MD)
EX OFFICIO
Jeff Kanof, Copperworks Distilling Co. (WA)
CENTRAL & MOUNTAIN
Tom Bard, The Bard Distillery (KY)
Murphy Quint, Cedar Ridge Distillery (IA)
Mark Shilling, Maverick Distilling (TX)
Phil Steger, Brother Justus Whiskey Co. (MN)
Olivia Stewart, Oxbow Rum Distillery (LA)
Thomas Williams, Delta Dirt Distillery (AR)
ACSA PAST PRESIDENTS
2024-2025 | Kelly Woodcock, Westward Whiskey (OR) 2023-2024 | Gina Holman, J. Carver Distillery 2020-2023 | Becky Harris, Catoctin Creek Distilling Co. 2018-2020 | Chris Montana, Du Nord Craft Spirits 2017-2018 | Mark Shilling, Maverick Distilling 2016-2017 | Paul Hletko, FEW Spirits 2014-2016 | Tom Mooney, House Spirits
CRAFT SPIRITS MAGAZINE EDITORIAL BOARD
PACIFIC
Caitlin Bartlemay, Clear Creek Distillery (OR)
Orlando Lima, Bainbridge Organic Distillers (WA)
Alex Villicana, Re:Find Distillery (CA)
ACSA PAC
Jordan Cotton, Cotton & Reed (DC)
Lew Bryson, Alexandra S. Clough, Sly Cosmopoulos, Prof. Dawn Maskell, Adam Polonski, and Teri Quimby
For advertising inquiries, please contact Kristiane Weeks-Rogers, kristiane@americancraftspirits.org For editorial inquiries or to send a news release, contact news@americancraftspirits.org
This issue has turned out to be a bit of a stealth love letter to gin, less by design than an alignment of the spirits and cocktail stars. The cover story is ostensibly about tea in spirits, but gin figures quite heavily into that piece—tea is a botanical, after all!
The feature well also includes an article on how some producers are diversifying their gin portfolios with a variety of flavor profiles.
So, it’s probably as good a time as any to talk about a particular panel that was on the education schedule at June’s Bar Convent Brooklyn. The title was pretty self-explanatory: “Reclaiming the Spotlight: The Future of Gin.” Pondering what’s next for the spirit were moderator Natasha Bahrami of the Gin Room and Gin World (and recent panelist on our Best Bars Roundtable), Chris Chamberlain of Spirits Academy, Elayne Duff of Heaven Hill, Lee Fisher of Hayman Distillers, and Keli Rivers of House of Suntory.
If there was one big takeaway for me, it was how those of us who work in and around this industry have to remember that we all live in a bit of a bubble. Any one of us can rattle off at least a 101 level of gin history, flavor profiles, and consumption formats, but the vast majority of the public can’t.
“The other day,” Chamberlain said, “someone came up to me and said, ‘Is that the spirit that makes you crazy?’” That person may have had some passing knowledge of the great Gin Craze of eighteenth-century England, but they might not be so well-versed in all that’s happened in the nearly 300 years since to regulate and improve the beverage.
I often forget that the average legal-drinking-age consumer might not even be able to tell us what distinguishes a gin from a vodka.
Duff said she likes to point out that vodka is just unflavored gin. “It also goes the other way,” she said, “that gin is flavored vodka. People say ‘no, don’t say that,’ but it’s the easiest way to explain it.”
Those who say “no, don’t say that,” are obviously residents of our aforementioned bubble. When it comes to educating the public, there’s no need to be precious or gatekeep-y about it. Meet consumers where they are. Don’t expect them to come to you.
We’ve written on these pages before that folks may have had early, negative experiences with gin, particularly in their
twenties when they’re just learning to navigate their way through a bar menu. Because of that, “I don’t like gin” is still a common refrain among drinkers. That statement may be true, but it’s quite likely that they just aren’t fans of the London Dry style. In other words, they don’t like anything too juniper-forward. “There’s a gin for everybody,” Rivers said. “You can make it from anything and make it anywhere.”
It falls on our industry to erase any bad memories with completely new experiences.
CRAFT SPIRITS magazine 2.0
And, speaking of new, I’d be remiss if I didn’t make you aware of some of the most significant changes to our publication in its six years of existence. I’m pleased to report that Jon Page has been promoted to ACSA’s Senior Manager of Membership and Marketing. While it’s bittersweet that he’ll no longer be directly involved with the magazine—though he’ll be much more directly connected with our membership—he’s leaving the publication in very capable hands. And those hands belong to our new Associate Editor, Sydney German, who’s already demonstrated with her impeccable work on this issue that she’s more than up to the task.
We’re also getting a huge surge of energy on the sales side in the form of ACSA’s new Advertising & Sponsorship Associate, Kristiane Weeks-Rogers. She’ll be responsible for non-dues revenue across the organization, as well as magazine, website, newsletter, and podcast ads.
Please join me in congratulating Jon and giving a warm welcome to Sydney and Kristiane! Great things are truly on the horizon for ACSA and CRAFT SPIRITS magazine. ■
Jeff Cioletti Editor-in-Chief
Thank You , Sponsors !
The American Craft Spirits Association would like to thank all of our annual sponsors and our key supporters of education. We are grateful for all of your support throughout the year. Interested in becoming a sponsor? Visit americancraftspirits.org/sponsors or contact membership@americancraftspirits.org.
Cask Strength Sponsors
Single Barrel Sponsors
Lew Bryson has been writing about beer and spirits full-time since 1995. He was the managing editor of Whisky Advocate from 1996 through 2015, where he also wrote the American Spirits column, and reviewed whiskeys. He has also written for the Daily Beast and American Whiskey. He is the author of “Tasting Whiskey,” “Whiskey Master Class” and the forthcoming “American Whiskey Master Class.”
Courtney Iseman is an award-winning freelance writer covering craft spirits and beer. Her work has appeared in outlets including The Washington Post, Food & Wine, Punch, VinePair, Wine Enthusiast, Men’s Journal and more. She has been a columnist focusing on drinks as well as local food and beverage happenings for Decibel Magazine, amNew York and i-D, and authored the Beer Tarot Zine for publisher Bean to Barstool
Tyler Derheim is FIVE x 5’s in-house consultant and self-described compliance nerd, leveraging his diverse expertise to help distilleries of all sizes make it easier to make great things. Tyler worked at a winery in Europe in the 2010s before returning home to California in 2017. There, he joined a DSP and led formulation, production, compliance, lab services, and more through a 50x volume increase before moving to freelance consulting. Tyler joined Fx5 in 2022.
is an award-winning brewer and distiller who has spent over a decade in the alcohol production industry. With an education in bioscience microscopy and molecular toxicology, they originally worked in biotech eventually transitioning into a career in distilled spirits production. Currently in their role as a technical sales manager for the Lallemand Biofuels & Distilled Spirits team, they provide technical expertise in fermentation and mash house optimization for craft distilleries throughout the West Coast of the United States.
Teri Quimby, JD, LLM is an attorney, president of Quimby Consulting Group and a former state alcohol regulator. She is known for her outspoken position on the need to modernize alcohol laws and regulations. Writing on legal, compliance and alcohol issues, her work has appeared in places like USA Today, Detroit News, Governing, Reason and American Spectator. In 2017, Crain’s Detroit Business recognized Teri on its list of Most Notable Lawyers in Michigan.
Andrew Kaplan is a freelance writer based in New York City. He was managing editor of Beverage World magazine for 17 years and has worked for a variety of other food and beverage-related publications, and also newspapers. Follow him on Twitter @andrewkap.
Rox Tiburolobo
SWEET SENSATIONS
Since its inception seven years ago, Bar Convent Brooklyn has served as a showcase for up-and-coming brands. Liqueurs in particular are having a moment and here are two, in particular, that caught our eye.
Miraflores
Fans of chicha morada—the sweet, fruity, spice-infused Peruvian drink made from purple corn that emerged during the Incan empire—will be pleased to learn that there’s a cocktailfriendly product based on that typically alcohol-free beverage. Miraflores, from Ritmo LLC, incorporates an old family recipe passed down for generations and bottles it as an 18% ABV liqueur. This particular recipe includes not only the violet-hued corn, but fresh pineapple, green apple, and lime. It’s finished with a dash of cinnamon and clove to incorporate a little baking spice complexity. Recommended cocktails include the Chicharita, combining Miraflores with tequila, lime juice and agave nectar; the Miraflores Royale, with Prosecco and a lime garnish; Miraflores Bramble, marrying the liqueur with gin, lime juice, simple syrup and a mint garnish; and Vamos a Tonear, which brings together equal parts Miraflores, mezcal, lime juice, Green Chartreuse, pineapple juice and an edible flower garnish.
Veda
Ask 10 people what the top trending taste experiences are and at least eight of them are likely to say “umami.” That’s a big part of what Veda Mushroom Liqueur brings to the table. Veda blends shiitake mushrooms with New York honey, maple syrup and a botanical list that includes horehound, mastic gum, gentian, marshmallow plant, rosemary, bay leaf and thyme..” It definitely shares some classic amaro DNA, but it’s far more earthy than bitter. The team behind Veda touts its versatility in everything from refreshing spritzes to more spirit-forward, whiskey-based cocktails. The producer recommends it as “the autumnal counterpart to the green, spring-like herbal notes” of the likes of Chartreuse. Suggested cocktails include the Veda Negroni, swapping out the vermouth in favor of Veda and Cynar; the Veda Last Word, with Veda, maraschino liqueur and lime; and the Veda Mule, with the mushroom liqueur replacing the vodka of the Moscow version.
Pursuit Spirits announced the release of Pursuit United Cognac Cask Rye. Not just another rye, this custom blend of straight rye whiskeys is finished in XO Cognac barrels and then bottled at Pursuit’s signature 108 proof.
Barrell Craft Spirits (BCS) has launched Barrell Bourbon Batch 037. The new expression incorporates straight bourbon whiskeys from Indiana (8, 11 & 12-year), Tennessee (13, 14 & 15-year), and Kentucky (10-year), which were expertly blended and bottled at 111.38 proof (55.69% ABV). The sophisticated bourbon highlights notes of dark chocolate, toffee, spiced orange, banana, cardamom, and honey and features a derived mash bill of corn (78%), rye (18%), and malted barley (4%).
Garrison Brothers Distillery has announced the release of 2025 Guadalupe, the latest edition of the multiaward-winning bourbon whiskey finished in port wine barrels. This limited release bourbon is bottled at 107 proof and is made with a sweet mash of number one food-grade corn, soft red winter wheat, and barley, all sourced from Texas.
North Carolina’s Oaklore Distilling Co. announced the release of its limitededition Oaklore Story Series: Port Cask Finish Rye Whiskey. Bottled at 92 proof, this 7-yearold, non-chill-filtered small-batch American whiskey offers a fullness of character and a richness of color that is achieved through additional aging in freshly dumped, domestic port wine barrels.
Great Jones Distillery is introducing Great Jones Wheated Bourbon as the newest addition to its core lineup. Made with 100% New York-grown corn, malted barley, rye, and red winter wheat from the Finger Lakes, the bourbon is aged a minimum of four years in new American oak barrels and bottled at 90 proof (45% ABV). It’s medium-bodied and well-balanced, with a buttery palate, subtle caramel and spice, and a smooth finish.
Cedar Ridge Distillery has released the fifth in a series of limitededition expressions of its award-winning American Single Malt, The QuintEssential Number Five. This new release is available at the Cedar Ridge Distillery in Iowa, online, and in select states and is bottled at 117.8 proof.
Coppercraft Distillery of Holland, Michigan has officially announced the latest release of its Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Coppercraft 9-Year-Old Straight Bourbon Whiskey
The brand uses brandy blending and proofing techniques that take three months from barrel to bottle. Taking on tasting notes of caramel, vanilla, and oak, the expression is bottled at 90.6 proof.
Heritage Distilling Holding Company, Inc. has launched Bitcoin Bourbon: a limited-edition Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey designed to celebrate the spirit of decentralization, the rise of digital currency culture and the future of digital payments for e-commerce retailers. Bitcoin Bourbon will be released at a bold 106.15 proof, reflecting the strength of the whiskey and alluding to the often-used term of “6.15” in Bitcoin parlance as a sign of financial freedom. Crafted to meet the expectations of modern consumers, it represents a fusion of “old-world” distilling and “next-gen” commerce.
Hinterhaus Distilling launched its wine cask-aged gin, Chasing Starlight. Distilled from 100% red wine grapes from the Sierra Foothills, Hinterhaus vapor-infuses botanicals native to the distillery’s Sierra Nevada region into every batch of its flagship South Grove Gin.
Kirby, Wyoming-based Wyoming Whiskey has launched Buffalo Bill Cody, a Wyoming-exclusive limited-edition bourbon that honors Buffalo Bill’s legacy. Made from grains farmed in Wyoming soil, distilled in Kirby, and created with a blend of 26 barrels at 97 proof from the Wyoming Whiskey rickhouses, Buffalo Bill Body is more than a bourbon; it is a tribute to the Wild West.
Lost Lantern unveiled its Summer 2025 Collection, celebrating the rise of estate distilleries. The Summer Collection introduces two new estate blends, called Farmers’ Fields Bourbon and Farmers’ Fields Rye. These limited-edition blends are unique to the Collection.
The newest iteration of High West Distillery’s The Prisoner’s Share is now available in limited quantities. This whiskey boasts a blend of straight bourbon and rye whiskeys that are finished in The Prisoner Red Wine Barrels for 4 -12 years.
Blue Note Bourbon has launched its first Single Barrel Straight Rye Whiskey. Born in Kentucky and crafted in Memphis, the new limited release features a classic mash bill of 95% rye and 5% malted barley, was aged a minimum of four years and was then bottled between 116-124 proof, unfiltered.
Wigle Whiskey has announced the release of its new Americana Rye whiskey, a defiant nod to the birthplace of American whiskey— Western Pennsylvania. Before Kentucky became synonymous with bourbon, this region was the undisputed home of American whiskey, with rye whiskey leading the charge. Consumers can expect Wigle’s signature rich, complex rye whiskey with distinct notes of cinnamon and black pepper.
Buzzard’s Roost Distillery announced its newest single-barrel whiskey specially chosen by its flock of super fans called Ambuzzadors. It is a five-year-old barrel-strength rye that was double-oaked for 18 months in one of Buzzard’s Roost lightly charred, custom-toasted barrels to extract the best flavors from the oak. The rye is 115-proof.
Long Road Distillers, Michigan’s awardwinning grain-toglass distillery, has officially debuted its latest limited-release spirit: Asparagin which is described as “a bold, herbaceous, and unapologetically Michigan gin” crafted with fresh asparagus grown in West Michigan.
Brother Justus Whiskey Company has launched its collaboration with the Commander’s Own Chapter of the 34th Infantry Division Association to jointly create and distribute two unique expressions of Brother Justus American Whiskey. Both expressions, The Commander’s Own and The Commander’s Cut, are distilled and bottled from 100 percent malted barley.
Milam & Greene Whiskey is introducing “The Answer” Straight Bourbon, specifically crafted to isolate and identify the difference in the impact of climate on whiskey flavor and proof between Kentucky and Texas. For more than five years, Milam & Greene aged whiskey from the exact same distillation in Kentucky and in the Texas Hill Country. “The Answer” is the culmination of the first empirical study in the United States comparing bourbon aging in Kentucky vs. Texas to better understand how climate impacts flavor and proof, and the result is a groundbreaking, side-by-side bourbon bottle set.
Colorado Springsbased Blackhat Distillery, has rolled out its latest innovation: Duelers Midnight, a barrelproof premium American agave spirit crafted for bold palates at a robust 110 proof.
The Bitter Truth has released Hazy Hops Bitters, a bold and aromatic new expression that joins the company’s acclaimed portfolio of cocktail bitters from all-natural flavors. Crafted from a unique blend of spirits, Caribbean rums, aromatic hops, citrus peels, dried fruits, and carefully selected botanicals, this new offering delivers a multidimensional flavor. Bottled at 44% ABV (88 proof) and available in a 200ml format.
Root Shoot Spirits has introduced High Rye Straight Malt Whiskey, a small-batch release distilled entirely from Colorado-grown ingredients. Aged for three years in first-use medium char American White Oak barrels, High Rye Straight Malt Whiskey (92 proof) unfolds with inviting aromas of baked rye bread, layered with caramelized vanilla and clove spice.
Second Act Spirits announced the highly anticipated release of its Clocktower Bourbon Barrel Proof Whiskey. This new expression offers an unadulterated experience of its 2024 John Barleycorn Gold Medalwinning Clocktower Bourbon, bottled directly from the barrel at just over 116 proof.
In honor of the momentous 250th anniversaries of the U.S. Army, Navy, and Marine Corps, Bardstown, Kentuckybased Four Branches released a special, limited-edition bourbon—The Continental. It was aged nine years and bottled at 102 proof with a mash bill of 75% corn, 13% rye, and 12% malted barley. It is a rich, deep amber color with an exquisite, complex taste with notes of caramel, honey, toffee, and maple.
Marble Distilling has unveiled its rarest release to date: Hoovers Revenge Fightin Whiskey, Aged 8 Years—a single cask, small-batch whiskey limited to just 247 bottles (101 proof). Crafted from triticale, a distinctive hybrid of rye and wheat, this whiskey bridges bold spice with elegant softness in an unforgettable sip.
Together, craft cocktails and vinyl music create adventures that are both deeply personal and fun to share with others. “Booze & Vinyl Country” will take you on a journey through the harmonies, heartbreaks, and highs of country music. Each entry features “liner notes” on the album and two accompanying beverage recipes that complement the music or mood, or connect with the artist.
Three Cheers: Cocktails
Three Ways: Classics, Riffs, and Zero Proof Sips
Author: Kaitlyn Stewart
Publisher: Ten Speed Press
Release Date: October 7
“Three Cheers” has a drink to suit every mood and occasion. This cocktail book offers recipes for three versions of 55 classic cocktails (165 recipes in total). Whether you like to keep it classic, try a new twist, or enjoy a spirit-free version, this book gives you all three options. With a modern design and lush photographs, margaritas, Manhattans, negronis, and more are accessible to every palate and every persuasion.
Author Spotlight: Lew Bryson, ‘American Whiskey Master Class: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding Bourbon, Rye & Other American Whiskeys’
In this expanded edition of American Whiskey Master Class, Lew Bryson focuses solely on American Whiskeys, sharing everything he’s learned on his journey through the world of American bourbon, rye, and other whiskeys. The book, from Quarto Group imprint Harvard Common Press, offers compelling tales (like how barrel aging came to be), insider tips (such as an old taster’s trick for sampling whiskey), and explanations you never thought you needed (like why you can never get a beverage that’s 100% alcohol— and why you should stick to whiskey). “American Whiskey Master Class” is scheduled to drop on September 23.
CRAFT SPIRITS magazine: Prior to American Whiskey Master Class, you had written multiple books to share your knowledge of whiskey. What inspired you to focus solely on American whiskey in this expanded edition?
Lew Bryson: To be completely honest, it was the publisher’s idea. My previous books have approached whiskey from a broad, inclusive perspective; I wrote about processes that were universal, or else I wrote about the various different aspects of whiskey making. But Quarto wanted to know if I’d like to go deeper on American whiskey, and after some thought, I agreed to. It was a great opportunity to talk about things I hadn’t had the room to discuss.
Between your time at Whiskey Advocate and as host of the podcast, Seen Through A Glass, how has your professional experience influenced the writing process of your books?
I got to see a lot of different writing styles over my years at Whisky Advocate, and different ways of digging into how whiskey is made and sold and tasted. That cut both ways; here were ways I wanted to emulate, maybe here were ways that either didn’t work, or that weren’t in my style. I’ve also been able to see my writing with an editorial eye, so as I gained more experience, my copy got cleaner
and more integrated, leading to less time on back-and-forth editing. I started podcasting because I wanted to get back to tight-focus local/regional stories, but also because I wanted more control over my content. It’s a solo operation, and I control everything, even the sponsorship messages I do, with the obvious exception of the interviews. Funny thing is that as I’ve built a reputation, I’ve found that editors tend to have a lighter touch, so I get that control, in a back-handed way. One thing that hasn’t changed, for better or worse, with the podcast and the books, is that I have to have everything researched, everyone interviewed, before I start writing. It’s annoying, and often pushes my deadline back and makes my editors crazy. But I’ve found that, just like making whiskey, everything I find out has an influence, and if I try making the book before I know everything I have to say, it becomes a web of changes and corrections. Make it right the first time.
What drink recommendation would you give to someone new to American whiskey?
Sample broadly! Try something new every day, if you can. And of course, educate yourself by reading a good book about it, because it’s true: the more you know, the better it tastes. Cheers!
IWSR FINDS GEN Z BEVERAGE ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION NOW IN LINE WITH PAST GENERATIONS
IWSR’s latest Bevtrac survey of consumer sentiment shows that Gen Z is not shunning alcohol any more than older consumers—and in some cases may be pushing back against the moderation trend.
Across the fifteen markets covered by the Bevtrac survey, the proportion of Gen Z legal drinking age (LDA+) adults who claim to have consumed alcohol in the past 6 months has risen from 66% in March 2023 to 73% in March 2025.
While the overall rate of 73% is still lower than the participation rate of all adults (78%), the survey found that behaviour among Gen-Z consumers who are drinkers is no longer significantly different from the behaviour of other generations.
Moderation remains a growing trend across all age groups, but Gen-Z LDA+ drinkers are not, as widely believed, at the forefront of this change. Richard Halstead, IWSR COO of Consumer Insights, says, “Moderation has been a growing trend among all drinkers for several years, but the idea that Gen-Z LDA+ drinkers are somehow fundamentally different from other age groups isn’t supported by the evidence. For instance, we know that beverage alcohol consumption correlates with disposable income, and Gen-Z came of age during a cost-of-living crisis. With every year that passes, more Gen-Z drinkers are entering the workforce, and those already in the workforce are typically earning more. I think we should expect that, as their incomes rise, they will
LALLEMAND RELEASES DISTILAEDGE TC YEAST STRAIN SPECIFICALLY FOR SPIRITS PRODUCTION
Lallemand Biofuels & Distilled Spirits (LBDS) has announced the release of DistilaEdge TC, its bioengineered (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) yeast strain developed specifically for distilled spirits production.
This strain is engineered to produce significantly higher levels of esters and aromatic compounds, unlocking new creative potential for distillers. Whether you’re crafting high-ester rum or exploring fruit-forward whiskey expressions, DistilaEdge TC delivers exceptional results—all without requiring any changes to your existing workflow. LBDS created this strain in collaboration with Mascoma (a company of Lallemand).
“This is a major milestone not just for Lallemand, but for the entire spirits industry,” says Justin van Rooyen, president & general manager of Lallemand Biofuels & Distilled Spirits. “DistilaEdge TC empowers distillers to push the boundaries of flavor and innovation like never before.”
Field trials have shown orders of magnitude increases in ester production, with no impact on fermination kinetics, yeast health, or yield—a “true game-changer,” the company says, for producers seeking complexity and consistency.
drink more often—just as Millennials did before them. The good news for the beverage alcohol industry is that, while moderation is set to be a long-term factor, consumption is not in a tailspin. According to this evidence, much of the recent decline is cyclical, not structural—and is definitely not the ‘fault’ of Gen-Z.”
BADGER BEVS EXPANDS WITH NEW DISTRIBUTION PARTNERS: BRESCOME BARTON AND BADGER LIQUOR
Badger Bevs, the premium cocktail mixer, is continuing its rapid growth with the addition of two new distribution partners: Brescome Barton in Connecticut and, fittingly, Badger Liquor in Wisconsin.
Since debuting in select markets in 2022, Badger has rapidly expanded its footprint and, as of late 2024, is now available in most major cities across the U.S. The new partnerships with Brescome Barton and Badger Liquor represent a key next step in deepening that presence in two meaningful markets: Wisconsin—whose state animal, the badger, makes this collaboration particularly well-matched—and Connecticut, home to the brand’s headquarters in Ridgefield. Both Brescome Barton and Badger Liquor are the leading wine and spirits distributors in their respective states and are recognized for their extensive reach and best-in-class service.
“We’re thrilled to partner with Brescome Barton and Badger Liquor—two of the most respected distributors in their regions,” says David Vogel, founder & CEO. “Their commitment to their customers and to providing best-in-class service makes them the perfect match for Badger.”
These new regional partnerships reflect Badger’s thoughtful, quality-driven expansion and complement the company’s premier national fine dining distribution partner, The Chefs’ Warehouse. With no signs of slowing, the brand is well-positioned to continue raising the bar for mixers in cocktail programs across the country.
NY BRAND OWNER’S LICENSE BILL PASSES BOTH HOUSES OF STATE LEGISLATURE
New York State Distillers Guild announced that legislation introduced by Assemblymember Donna Lupardo and Senator James Skoufis (A6277 / S567) establishing a Brand Owner’s license, has passed both houses of the State Legislature.
When Governor Hochul signs this bill, it will close a gap in New York’s alcohol law that makes it difficult for New York State brand owners to work with distillers in the state. This bill will enable New York distillers to “co-pack” or produce spirits for New York brand owners much more easily. Right now, Distillers jump through several administrative hoops to work with New York brand owners. The challenges presented by existing law have driven New York brand owners to work with out-of-state distillers, even when they wanted to work with New York producers.
This common-sense legislation will incentivize in-state production, boost the economic growth of New York’s craft spirits industry, and raise tax collections by increasing opportunities for co-packing opportunities between New York brand owners and producers.
Assemblywoman Lupardo, chair, Assembly Agriculture Committee says, “I was very pleased to help deliver this needed fix to New York’s antiquated liquor laws, allowing new business opportunities for New York’s craft beverage industry. After last year’s successful directto-consumer shipping bill was signed, Sen. Skoufis and I set our sights on this issue. I’m sure that Governor Hochul will agree that it certainly is time to update this law.”
Senator Skoufis says, “Distilleries, cideries, and breweries are economic engines here in New York. To allow these small businesses to contract with in-state co-packers will increase opportunities to grow those businesses and reduce costs on New York’s craft producers. The license this legislation creates streamlines and formalizes what is standard practice in the larger alcohol industry, and will lead to more brands being manufactured in New York at a lower cost.”
Brian Facquet, president, New York State Distillers Guild, says, “The passage of the Brand Owner bill is a tremendous win for New York’s craft beverage industry. This legislation will help streamline the process for New York manufacturers—across spirits, beer, wine, and cider—to co-pack and custom-produce for brand owners. It’s not just a regulatory improvement; it’s an investment in small businesses that will generate jobs, tax revenue, and permit fees across the state. We’re deeply grateful to Assemblymember Donna Lupardo and Senator James Skoufis for their continued leadership and commitment to New York’s independent producers.”
Teresa Casey, executive director, New York State Distillers Guild, says, “With passage of the Brand Owner bill, Assemblywoman Lupardo and Senator Skoufis have once again ensured that New York’s alcohol law evolves to serve New York’s craft beverage producers and, and this time, also serve brand owners in the Empire State who will be able work more easily with New York producers.”
Garrison Brothers Distillery and Milam & Greene Whiskey are among the Texas craft spirits producers that have stepped up to raise funds for those impacted by the devastating floods in the state’s Hill Country. Garrison Brothers Distillery in Hye, Texas, has turned its Saturday, July 12 launch event for the release of the 2025 edition of Guadalupe cask-strength bourbon into a fundraiser for flood relief.
“It appears everyone in Texas—and even beyond our borders—has been affected in some way by the recent flooding in the Texas Hill Country. At Garrison Brothers, we have received dozens of offers of assistance from great people,” the distillery says. “Thank you. Since July 4, we have been developing a plan to help the first responders, businesses, and families who have been affected. Here is our plan. If you can help, we’d welcome the assistance.”
Good Bourbon for a Good Cause has collected funds and donations by selling special bottles of Cask Strength Guadalupe Bourbon at the distillery since the whiskey’s launch on July 12. Every bottle purchased equates to a $50 donation to the Kerr County Flood Relief Fund operated by the Community Foundation of the Texas Hill Country. Garrison Brothers Distillery will match the first $10,000 that is donated.
Additionally, Garrison Brothers donated 100% of the profit raised that day from sales of food and drinks at the WhiskeyShack and the Gift Shop. The distillery’s owners and team were on hand with donation collection buckets in hand.
On July 29, Good Bourbon for a Good Cause delivered an initial $50,000 contribution—generated by these donations—to the Com-
The Clear Choice For Your
FLOOD RELIEF
munity Foundation of Texas Hill Country’s Kerr County Flood Relief Fund. In a show of local solidarity, Happy State Bank (Fredericksburg, Texas) pledged to match that check dollar-fordollar, instantly doubling the impact to $100,000.
Meanwhile, Milam & Greene Whiskey in Blanco, Texas donated to the fund 15% of net proceeds on all of its whiskey purchases online from anywhere in the U.S. through the end of July. Additionally, Milam & Greene’s Hill Country Distillery donated 15% of net proceeds on in-person sales. The distillery also donated 50% of net proceeds from sales of its coveted Unabridged bottles.
Milam & Greene also partnered with Spec’s Wine’s Spirits & Foods in Texas, donating, through July 31, up to $20 per bottle to Texas Pets Alive. The organization is working to help with evacuations and reunifications of pets pre- and post-disaster.
Visit milamandgreenewhiskey.com/flood-relief/ to find out how to donate directly to these local organizations that are supporting every facet of the recovery efforts.
7X Distilled through nearly 600ft of distillation
Available in 192 proof. Carbon filtered or unfiltered
Shipping options include rail, tanker, tote, and drum
Competitive pricing based on annual volume
COTTON & REED PARTNERS WITH PRESTIGE-LEDROIT DISTRIBUTING CO.
Cotton & Reed, Washington, D.C.’s first rum distillery, in July announced a new distribution partnership with Prestige-Ledroit Distributing Co., a leading distributor of artisanal spirits, wine, and craft beverages in the Mid-Atlantic region.
This strategic collaboration marks an exciting chapter for both companies as Cotton & Reed seeks to grow its presence across Maryland, Washington, D.C., and Delaware. Prestige-Ledroit, known for its carefully curated portfolio and dedication to independent producers, will now carry Cotton & Reed’s full line of award-winning rums.
“Jim and Pam are finally getting together. Prestige Ledroit has the best selection of both local spirits and rums from around the world, and we couldn’t be happier to join their book,” says Jordan Cotton, CEO and co-founder of Cotton & Reed. “They are a national rarity- a wholesaler that combines expertise and a dedication to craft with the scale to service accounts and a sterling reputation among buyers and suppliers alike.”
Since opening its doors in 2016 in D.C.’s vibrant Union Market district, Cotton & Reed has earned a reputation for pushing the boundaries of rum-making, using unique fermentation techniques and a bold approach to flavor.
The distillery has garnered regional acclaim and a loyal following for products like its White Rum, Dry Spiced Rum, and Allspice Dram, as well as its inventive canned cocktails.
Prestige-Ledroit’s addition of Cotton & Reed to its portfolio
strengthens its commitment to supporting independent, innovative brands that elevate the craft beverage experience.
“Cotton & Reed exemplifies the kind of creativity and craftsmanship we look for in our partners,” said John Dynan, Senior Spirits Portfolio Manager. “We’re excited to help bring their exceptional rums to more bars, restaurants, and retailers throughout the region.”
The partnership officially launched in July 2025, with Cotton & Reed products now available for wholesale order through Prestige-Ledroit in D.C., Maryland, and Delaware.
WHISKEY PARADIGM SHIFT
BY LEW BRYSON
Things are changing in the craft whiskey business, and we need to talk about a new piece of equipment you might want to think about. I know, buying equipment is probably the last thing you want to think about right now, but hear me out.
Unless you’ve been asleep for the past year, you know that there are changes in the whiskey market.
The wild growth is over, and putting a new finish on a whiskey no longer guarantees a sell-out rush. (It’s not just whiskey, either. Craft beer has seen the same tighter markets in the past three years.)
It looks like we’ve hit Peak Whiskey in the US; truth is, we’ve probably gone past it. While I hesitate to say that things are falling, we’re at least in that short weightless period before the fall…or, okay, maybe we’re catching our breath before things go up again. But the wide-eyed optimism of that last bit makes me twitch.
As I may have mentioned, I have a new book about American whiskey (it comes out in September, thanks for asking!). That involved talking to people in the industry, like Nora Ganley-Roper and Adam Polonski, the founders of independent bottler Lost Lantern. Part of the interview was about buying barrels from ghost distilleries; places that made whiskey, but closed.
“There’s both a certain sadness and a certain excitement to working with a ghost distillery as an independent bottler. The sadness is obvious: here is a place that had to close its doors, its original vision coming to an end. But at least we, as an independent bottler, have the opportunity to take up the legacy of a ghost distillery and continue to share what made them special, even though the distillery itself is gone.”
Do I have your attention? I wanted to be clear about the stakes involved. I do not want you to be a ghost distillery
So, another pair of people I spoke with were Becky and Scott Harris. (Becky, like Adam
Polonski, is a current ACSA board member.) I spoke with them a few months ago. We talked about the market, and they noted that they’d cut back on production. Why put more barrels in the warehouse when grain and glass prices were rising so steeply?
They aren’t the only whiskey makers I’ve heard say the same thing recently. Distillery projects are halting in place, warehouse construction is abruptly at a standstill. It makes sense, especially with global market uncertainties that have nothing to do with whiskey. Shifting economic policies have made market forecasts even more opaque than usual.
So what’s that new piece of equipment I mentioned at the beginning of the column? Is it AI, that can figure out what to do and how much whiskey to make? Has the Crash Reactor Aging Protocol device finally been perfected, and warehouses are no longer needed when you can make 5 year old whiskey in 10 days?
No. It’s a simple stainless steel tank.
Look, you’ve got whiskey aging in barrels now. A growing number of you have barrels that are reaching ages of five, seven, eight, even 12 years. Up until now, that has been nothing but an opportunity, one to be celebrated. Look, we have our first 8 year old whiskey!
But if you’re cutting back on production, on the input end of the aging cycle, you should be thinking about the output end as well. You’re tasting, checking on your whiskey’s progress as the years turn.
At some point the ‘good flavor’ curve starts to trend downward. Depending on the decisions you’ve made over the past five to twelve years, the downward trend may be close; it may already be here.
If you have whiskey that’s at its peak, you don’t want to leave it in the barrel. Tank it, keep it at its best until the market is ready for it.
I’ll be honest. I don’t know the exact
You know that there are changes in the whiskey market. The wild growth is over and putting a new finish on a whiskey no longer guarantees a sellout rush.
math on this, I don’t know what kind of market justifies it, I don’t know when the curves intersect and it all makes perfect sense. But I have a gut feeling that it may be soon, or that, as I said, you should at least be thinking about it.
One more quote, from when I wrote Tasting Whiskey, back in 2013. I was at Glenlivet, talking to Ian Logan, who at the time was the distillery’s head brand ambassador, great guy. They had just doubled their distilling capacity, and what did Ian say about it? “Everything is cyclical. The last downturn was in the mid80s. It will turn down again.”
But ‘cyclical’ implies that it will rise again. Think about your strategy; are you getting out, or staying in? If you’re in, maybe get some tanks. ■
Lew Bryson has been writing about beer and spirits full-time since 1995. He is the author of “Tasting Whiskey” and “Whiskey Master Class.”
MAKE YOUR VOICE HEARD AT ACSA’S 2025 LEGISLATIVE FLY-IN
The craft spirits category is in crisis and now, more than ever, we need as many distillers as possible to participate in ACSA’s Legislative Fly-In this Sept. 9-10 in Washington, D.C. This is our chance to meet face-to-face as a group with senior leadership from the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) and let our voices be heard before members of Congress.
The Fly-In is complimentary to all ACSA members who want to help educate Congress on issues facing our small business manufacturing sector. This is your opportunity to speak directly with lawmakers and regulators, and to discuss issues that directly impact the craft spirits industry.
No experience is necessary—we will provide a full briefing and get you up to speed on issues that can change our economic landscape. Registration is required and complimentary for members.
If you’re passionate about protecting the future of craft spirits, this is the moment to step forward.
ACSA SUBMITS LETTER TO FTC ON REDUCING ANTI-COMPETITIVE BARRIERS
In late May, ACSA submitted a letter to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) in response to its request for public comment on reducing anticompetitive regulatory barriers. In the letter, ACSA CEO Margie A.S. Lehrman highlighted the disproportionate regulatory burden placed on small craft distillers and called for modernized, equitable rules that support innovation and market access. The letter also urges the FTC and Department of Justice to encourage states to enact market access reforms, including direct-to-consumer shipping for spirits.
INTRODUCING ACSA’S MEMBERS-ONLY ADVOCACY REPORT
This spring, the American Craft Spirits Association introduced a new seasonal advocacy report, created to keep our members informed on our ongoing efforts to protect and promote the interests of craft distillers across the country.
Highlights from the first edition include:
• ACSA’s 2025 Legislative Priorities
• Market Access Updates & Current Affairs
• Key Advocacy Wins from Early 2025
• And much more ACSA members can download the full report. If you’re not yet a member and would like access, we invite you to join ACSA today at americancraftspirits.org/signup
REGISTER NOW
ACSA ANNOUNCES KEY STAFF CHANGES
The American Craft Spirits Association has recently welcomed several new team members and celebrated an internal promotion—all part of its continued efforts to better serve the craft spirits community and strengthen its communications, marketing, and member engagement. The newest addition to the team is Kristiane Weeks-Rogers, who joined in July as Advertising & Sponsorship Associate. Earlier this summer, Jon Page was promoted to Senior Manager of Membership & Marketing, and Sydney German was named Associate Editor of CRAFT SPIRITS magazine.
Page, formerly ACSA’s Senior Editor, is now responsible for strengthening member engagement, expanding the association’s community, and leading marketing efforts for ACSA’s key programs—including its annual convention, spirits competitions, legislative fly-in, and more.
“For the past six years, I’ve had the privilege of telling the stories of craft spirits producers through the digital pages of CRAFT SPIRITS magazine, on The Craft Spirits Podcast, and beyond,” says Page. “I am constantly inspired by their creativity, dedication, resilience, and passion. It’s an honor to now step into this new role at ACSA, where I’ll continue working to champion this vibrant community and help our members thrive in an ever-evolving industry.”
To continue the mission of ACSA and CRAFT SPIRITS, German will work closely with Editor in Chief Jeff Cioletti and members of ACSA to promote the efforts of independent craft distillers by contributing to the publication of the bi-monthly magazine, newsletters, website, and podcast. German added, “I am excited and honored to join the inspiring work
JUDGING COMPLETE FOR HEARTLAND WHISKEY COMPETITION
Judging for the 2025 Heartland Whiskey Competition concluded in mid-July, as an expert panel evaluated entries from across the country. Open to any American whiskey with corn in the mash bill, the biennial competition features exclusive awards for Best of State, Best of Category, and Top Farmer-Distiller. Stay tuned: We’ll be announcing the full list of medalists and award recipients soon.
of ACSA and be a part of the production of CRAFT SPIRITS.”
Before joining ACSA, German received her Bachelor of Arts degree in English with a focus on Creative Writing from the University of Mary Washington and her Master of Arts in Publishing and Writing from Emerson College. While receiving her degrees, she published a novella and worked as a development editor for multiple independent authors. She has also worked on other publications, including as an editor of the inaugural issue of Dulcet Literary Magazine While at Dulcet, she initiated efforts to expand its reach to writers and readers; for example, the virtual author readings and the Creatives Interview Series.
Weeks-Rogers will help support independent craft distillers by coordinating advertising campaigns and building meaningful sponsorships across the magazine, newsletter, podcast, and beyond. She’ll also manage workflows and client communications to ensure the delivery of assets which reflect the creativity and innovation of the industry. “I’m excited to contribute to the visibility of independent spirits producers and all who support them through thoughtful, collaborative advertising initiatives,” says WeeksRogers. “I’m truly humbled to join the work of ACSA and connect with such a vibrant and dedicated community.”
Before joining ACSA, Weeks-Rogers held roles in nonprofit publishing and in digital marketing, working with clients like Pernod Ricard. Her background in strategic communications and client engagement informs her collaborative, relationship-driven approach at ACSA.
Jon Page
Sydney German
Kristiane Weeks-Rogers
Steep Thoughts
Tea may not be nearly as popular as coffee, but many say the former’s versatility as a spirits ingredient is unmatched.
BY JEFF CIOLETTI
Americans have, for centuries, had a complicated relationship with tea. But it wasn’t always that way, and it could fall on some distillers to help set the record straight.
“It goes back to the Boston Tea Party stuff,” says Erin Lee, head distiller at FEW Spirits, who also happens to be a certified tea sommelier (not to mention an O.G. STEPUP intern). “America was a really big tea-drinking country for a while.”
After Colonial tax protesters dumped the tea into Boston Harbor on December 16, 1773, tea drinking, as a cultural cornerstone in America, started to wane. “People actually started steeping herbs at that point,” Lee continues, “and that’s kind of where [tea] started disappearing from American culture.”
There’s no denying that U.S. consumers continue to be bigger drinkers of coffee than they are of tea. They spent nearly $20 billion on the former last year, according to market research company Mintel. But tea’s performance wasn’t too shabby either, totaling just over $10 billion in 2024. It’s essentially the Pepsi to coffee’s Coke. Still, coffee seems to benefit from far better PR in the U.S., as it’s more firmly embedded in so many facets of American culture.
Anyone who’s stayed in a hotel room and found a generous array of Fair Trade, artisan coffee but a dearth of tea offerings beyond a couple of bags of low-end chamomile knows this all too well.
“When you go to a coffee shop, they have all of these different settings and pour-over methods,” Lee notes, “but with tea, it’s usually just a bag and you don’t know how long it’s been steeping and you don’t know what temperature water they use.”
An average consumer ordering coffee can rattle off all manner of esoterica, from roast levels to point of origin. That’s far less the case with tea. ”I think a lot of people have never had a really great cup of tea,” Lee argues. “People often just don’t understand the variety of flavors that can exist within the world of tea.”
That may seem to present a difficult challenge for any craft spirits producer looking to bring tea’s wealth of flavor nuances and character to their products—especially in a world where there’s no shortage of coffee liqueurs and cocktails—but it’s proved to be more of an opportunity to innovate and educate.
Midnight Pumpkins and Immortals
FEW has integrated the beverage into its
“People generally think there’s one type of tea and that’s black tea. There are thousands of types of teas, so there are endless possibilities.”
—Erin Lee, FEW Spirits
spirits in a number of creative ways. Last year, for instance, the distillery proofed down its Smashing Pumpkins collaboration bourbon to bottling strength with tea from Madame Zuzu’s Emporium, the tea shop that Pumpkins frontman Billy Corgan owns with his wife, Chloé Mendel Corgan.
“I actually played with a few different types of tea,” Lee recalls. “I think there was a smoked tea in the mix, some kind of altered tea, a chai with cardamom pods and whatnot.”
The team ultimately landed on Midnight Rose, a black tea scented with its namesake flower. “[Midnight Rose] capitalized on the hygroscopic quality of tea, where it could absorb aromas of what it’s stored near,” Lee explains. “It’s been naturally scented with rose petals and that flavor translates into the bourbon.”
The Midnight Rose doesn’t disguise the whiskey, but it enhances the mouthfeel and lengthens the finish significantly. “That’s where the rose comes into play,” she says.
Meanwhile, the distillery proofs its Immortal Rye Whiskey with 8 Immortals Dancong oolong, taking it from barrel strength to 46.5 ABV/93 proof. “Dancong is a really aromatic, intensely fruity, floral tea,” Lee explains. “FEW’s rye is not a spicy rye, so it kind of emphasizes some of those stone fruit characteristics and it does also bring that lovely finish and mouthfeel that I was talking about. It adds a richness to the palate.”
Nifty Shades of Grey
FEW’s tea-scapades haven’t involved just whiskey. About a decade ago FEW introduced Breakfast Gin, one of whose key botanicals was Earl Grey.
That bergamot-forward black variety also plays a starring role in Juniper Jones Earl Grey Gin from Denver-based The Family Jones. The distillery macerates the tea in the finished gin for 24 to 48 hours and then ages the spirit in ex-bourbon barrels.
The project came about when a local tea house was looking for casks in which to age its Earl Grey. The tea artisans filled the barrels with leaves, but then struggled to remove all of the leaves from the wood. “For the first go-round, we didn’t really know how much tea they put in the barrel, but we knew there was a lot left,” recalls Jamie Burns, lead distiller at the Family Jones. “So, we filled the barrels with gin and from that trial we really were aging the tea leaves with gin in the barrel. And that aged for three to four months.”
Eventually, the distillery learned how to recreate the desired flavor profile, just by
macerating the leaves in the gin and then barrel-aging it.
“There was a learning curve of how much of a tea-to-gin ratio [we’d need] to get us to a point where we could do a 24 to 48-hour maceration to get that same flavor profile that we were getting with aging the tea in barrels,” Burns notes.
That ratio, by the way, is quite low, just a few grams of tea per pound of spirit.
“For us, it’s really an efficiency thing,” Burns continues “Being able to add a tea directly to the gin, macerate it and then barrel age it just allows us to be more efficient.”
The distilling team also adds 1% sugar to the spirit after it comes out of the barrel, mainly to accomplish two goals. The first is to balance some of the bitter compounds that the gin extracts from the tea. The second is to add some subtle, Old-Tom-style sweetness to the finished product.
“With that,” he says, “it plays into the way that Earl Grey tea drinkers drink their tea,
with just a little bit of sugar.”
Juniper Jones Earl Grey Gin has proved rather popular among The Family Jones’s consumers. Those who don’t typically gravitate toward the botanical spirit find it more approachable, Burns reports. Naturally, it attracts the die-hard tea drinkers, especially the Earl Grey lovers. Even for non-gin, non-tea drinkers, the tint that the leaves impart on the spirit intrigues Family Jones fans.
Where There’s Smoke, There’s Fire Beyond Earl Grey, the smoked lapsang souchong tea variety has found its way into the distillery’s ready-to-pour Automatic Jones Smoked Old Fashioned.
“All of the smoke is just from the tea,” Burns points out. “It’s a cool way to get smoke flavor that’s not peaty.”
To achieve its flavor profile, the team macerates the lapsang in whiskey and rounds it out with mole bitters.
Lapsang souchong also enjoys the spotlight
in State Line Distillery’s Smoked Tea Gin, the brainchild of the Madison, Wisconsin producer’s bar manager, Mike McDonald. For the distillery’s cocktail offerings, McDonald had often sought products that evoke the flavor notes in certain types of spirits—particularly those for aged spirits. At the time, Wisconsin distillery bars could only sell what they made (the state relaxed the law last year, enabling those on-site bars to incorporate some products from other producers).
“Today’s much different than when we started State Line,” says McDonald. “Obviously we [now] have lots of aged products and things that developed certain flavors that we didn’t have on day one. My goal as the mixologist ... for our cocktail lounge was to find ways to bring in flavors of those barrel-aged spirits that we could use in our cocktail program. Tea has always been a great source of certain flavors that you can get in aged spirits.”
McDonald had become familiar with the versatility of lapsang souchong when he worked for Bittercube Bitters a decade ago.
“It’s the perfect product to mimic those flavors, with the wood smoke, the pine smoke, the resins, the spices, the berry notes from lapsang,” he adds. “This perfectly fits into that type of peaty Scotch whisky flavor as well as brings in some of the tannins.”
The tea also brings a bit of astringency, similar to what you’d get from an oak barrel. State Line balances the flavor with the addition of Golden Yunnan tea, which serves as a counterpoint to the lapsang. “It’s helping round out the profile with peppery spices, a little bit of chocolate, and, actually, a really deep malt finish from that tea as well,” McDonald says. So they both worked pretty perfectly, infused into our American Gin to help bring out those flavors.”
The distillery produces American Gin’s neutral grain spirit base in house from 85% wheat and 15% barley, all sourced from Wisconsin’s Driftless Area.
“It’s really soft in terms of how it sits on your palate, versus a corn-based distillate,” explains State Line founder John Mleziva. “You get that roundness, smoothness, creaminess from the wheat, which provides all of the mouthfeel … and the barley provides a touch of sweetness on the backend.”
The team vapor infuses the botanicals, including lemon peel, coriander, orris root, sage and, of course, juniper.
To make the Smoked Tea Gin version, the lapsang macerates for a remarkably short period of time—about 12 minutes. “The sweet spot was a quick, early extraction, so that we’re not pulling out too many of those
tannins,” notes Mleziva. “I would say I was surprised at how quickly that extraction happened as we played around in the lab to see what this product could be. The extraction schedule is very different than almost any other macerations that we’re running.”
By contrast, Mleziva says, the maceration for something like an orange liqueur would take several days to pull out the ingredients’ desired components.
“This was kind of a fun one, just in terms of an education on our end [about] how quickly we can achieve those flavors that we want,” Mleziva recalls, “and how quickly it can turn on you, as well, if you’re not watching the extraction rate very closely.”
State Line Smoked Tea Gin is the beating heart of its bar’s Smoke Show cocktail, which McDonald designed as a rum-less riff on a classic Painkiller. Other ingredients include fresh lemon juice, ginger-lemongrass syrup and raw honey syrup, and served on ice in a rocks glass with a lemon wheel garnish.
Another benefit of the quick maceration process is that it provides the necessary color extraction to evoke a brown spirit.
“That can help, I don’t want to say ‘trick,’ people into thinking they’re consuming a Penicillin over a gin sour, so to speak,” McDonald reveals.
“My goal as the mixologist ... for our cocktail lounge was to find ways to bring in flavors of those barrel-aged spirits that we could use in our cocktail program. Tea has always been a great source of certain flavors that you can get in aged spirits.”
— Mike McDonald, State Line Distillery
Where’s the Proof?
For those who plan to work with any kind of tea to enhance their spirits, there is one particular side effect to keep an eye on. It’s not uncommon for proof to decline during the maceration process. The Family Jones has experienced this phenomenon and Burns believes that there are two possible culprits.
“The tea is not completely dry, there’s some moisture, so the tea could be adding moisture to [the spirit],” Burns theorizes. “Or, it could be that the tea leaves are absorbing alcohol. We’re not exactly sure what the mechanism is, but we consistently see a drop in proof when we macerate tea in spirit.”
But that’s a mystery for another day. If there’s something that really needs demystifying, it’s the nature of tea itself among the general American populace.
“People generally think there’s one type of tea and that’s black tea,” Says, FEW’s Lee. “There are thousands of types of teas, so there are endless possibilities. It’s familiar to people, but it’s not used often enough in alcohol products. You can create something fresh.”
And, with the race to innovate, it’s not a bad tool to have in your arsenal.
“So, for example, if I were going to create a new whiskey mash, that might take four years for me to bottle it,” Lee notes. “But with a tea innovation you can use things you already have in a barrel and get it out within months.” ■
Tea 101
It’s true that there are thousands of different tea varieties and we’d need an entire decade’s worth of magazine issues to detail all of them. But FEW Spirits head distiller and certified tea sommelier Erin Lee is more than happy to help us understand some of the basics.
GREEN TEA
There’s zero oxidation in green tea.
“It’s picked and goes through a process called kill-green, either through steaming or pan frying,” Lee explains. The heating halts oxidation. Japanese tea makers tend to prefer steaming, while Chinese producers tilt more toward the pan-frying side. “[With steaming] it has really vegetal, bright, grassy, umami, almost seaweed-like characteristics,” she says. “It could remind you of spinach or snow peas.”
The contrast with the Chinese pan-fried method is similar to that of steamed versus wok-fired vegetables. “Think of something like a stir-fried bok choy, fried spinach,” she explains. The pan method also brings out some herbaceous and nutty characteristics.
BLACK TEA
Black teas are fully oxidized and likely to be from one of two categories: Assam and Sinensis. Assam, which grows in India and Kenya, is the type with which most drinkers are likely to be familiar. “[Assam] is bold, brisk, malty and it usually goes into a lot of tea blends like English Breakfast to wake you up,” she says. Assam is typically darker and more robust.
Sinensis, on the other hand, grows in countries like China and Japan and tends to be more delicate, with some pleasing floral
notes. When brewed, it tends to have more of an amber hue.
OOLONG
“Oolong is a type of tea that lives between green tea, with zero oxidation, and black tea, which has been fully oxidized,” Lee notes. It can be anywhere from 10% to 90% oxidation, with green oolongs falling somewhere in the 10% to 45% range. Green oolong exhibits some elegant floral notes and vegetal aromas. “It makes me think of hyacinth in springtime and lilac,” she adds.
Black oolong, meanwhile, ranges between 45% and 90% oxidized and is usually roasted. It’s characterized by woody and fruity notes. “I think there’s just a world of flavor in between it all,” Lee says.
PU’ER
There are basically two types of Pu’er, Sheng and Shou. Sheng, or “raw” Pu’er is the more traditional version, while shou, or “ripe” Pu’er is
the more modern iteration.
There can be young and aged versions of Sheng Pu’er. “The young Pu’er are more astringent and they may even look a little more similar to green tea and they might have a little bit of fruit,” says Lee. “But as it ages it kind of reminds me of fall leaves and has a mellow sweetness.”
Shou Pu’er undergoes an accelerated fermentation process to replicate how a 30-yearold Pu’er might taste. “It doesn’t have as much depth,” she says, “but it’s enjoyable in its own right.” You’ll usually find Shou to be mellower with some dark, rich and earthy flavors.
WHITE TEA
“White tea is minimally processed,” Lee says. “Oftentimes they’ll just dry it outdoors in the sun or use fans to help dry it. It has a really lovely, delicate sweetness and soft, hay-like notes.”
Other notes can be reminiscent of melon, white flowers, and soft citrus and make the tea very refreshing. —J.C.
Gin deserves its flowers. It can bend from clean to botanically baroque, it’s a key vehicle for exploring unique and/or local ingredients, and it’s a cocktail workhorse. But it’s not a top earner in American spirits. That spot belongs to vodka, the best seller by volume in 2024 according to The Distilled Spirits Council of the US and IWSR Drinks Market Analysis—followed by ready-to-drink cocktails, tequila and mezcal, whiskey, and rum. A total of 20.7 million cases of rum moved in 2024 compared with 8.3 million of gin. Especially owing to gains in subcategories like premium gin, though, many industry insiders may see this gap not as a sign Americans don’t care about gin, but as room for the spirit to grow.
That’s a bet that some craft distilleries are clearly making, leaning into gin with rich variety in entire lineups of gin. The majority of distilleries who produce gin tend to stick to a straightforward London Dry to tick the gin box, or maybe add a barrel-aged expression or one more specifically flavored expression; even rarer, perhaps an Old Tom or Plymouth. This leaves room for innovation, and some distilleries have stepped into that with three, four, or more gins available at the same time, exploring flavor profiles that boast local ties, cocktail-readiness, and storytelling opportunities. To do this, they’ve shown faith in their consumer, and their consumer has proven responsive and eager to learn about just what gin can do. What exactly does this look like for these distillers, though? Why do they bravely invest in gin—and how does it pay off?
A Blank Canvas
For distilleries with big whiskey ambitions, gin can be a means to an end, something to start selling while their bourbon or rye sits in barrels. For those who believe in gin enough to have several expressions on their roster at once, however, there are other motivations afoot. Chief among them are gin’s virtually limitless possibilities.
“It must have juniper, but from there, it’s a blank canvas,” says Jon O’Connor, cofounder and CEO of Long Road Distillers in Grand Rapids, Michigan.
In Alameda, California, St. George Spirits master distiller Lance Winters thinks of gin like a poetic form. “It’s iambic pentamer, it’s haiku,” he says. “There are certain guardrails, but they don’t confine activity, they promote it.” One of the first gins he crafted at St. George was Terroir, inspired by a walk through the woods. “It smelled amazing and I wanted to make something that smelled
like…that,” he says. “I just needed a category for it, since you have to have a type to produce and sell spirits.” Winters wanted not to emulate gin per se but instead what that forest smelled like—gin just happens to be the category where he could capture any flavor profile.
Distillers leverage this flexibility to capture specific local flora, regional landscapes, or simply flavors they’ve long personally loved. Long Road embraces the local surroundings. In addition to a classic Dry Gin, their full-time gin lineup includes Sovereign Gin with Thai basil, bay leaf, lime peel, and grapefruit, and naturally colored with butterfly pea flower; plus MICHIGIN, made with locally farmed red winter wheat and locally sourced botanicals; and Asparagin, a new addition for 2025 with Michigan-grown asparagus. St. George captures landscapes with that forest-evocative Terroir; Botanivore, with a differing bouquet of local botanicals; and Valley, a citrus-leaning gin created as an homage to a local farming family’s citrus grove; plus Dry Rye, with an unaged rye whiskey base; and Dry Rye Reposado, a whiskey-fied gin that is Dry Rye rested in ex-wine casks.
In Sheffield, Massachusetts, Berkshire Mountain Distillers has three gins available
year-round and distributed throughout the Northeast: Greylock a traditional London style; Ethereal Gin, and a whiskey barrelaged gin. Operations manager and head distiller, William Winn, says the Ethereal gin has evolved into a continuous series of one-off batches, numbering 17 at the time of writing. The “Garden” and “Stormy” subseries tend to only be available at the distillery’s tasting room. Garden gins exclusively use botanicals harvested from Berkshire Mountain Distillers’ own farm, greenhouse, and garden. They’ve showcased angelica, elderberry, and rose; citrus and berries; lemon peel, lemongrass, and lemon verbena; hibiscus, lime, and lavender; and eucalyptus, honey, and pepper; among others.
The Better Man Distilling in Patchogue, New York, has a gin lineup driven by “gut feelings,” says operations manager Abby Gruppuso. “Gin was always part of the plan. This is my family’s business, and we’re all gin lovers and wanted to make it a focus.” The Better Man’s gin portfolio isn’t calculated but expressive of the producer’s own creativity.
In addition to their American-style dry gin, Golden Hour, The Better Man set out to bottle the lush lavender fields of the nearby North Fork of Long Island. Gruppuso’s aunt Giulia Hamacher, with a PhD in chemistry and natural instincts for recipe development, joined the distillery to create Elysian Fields Lavender Gin, and then helped develop Red Horizon Apple Forward Gin as well as Moonstruck Citrus Gin with yuzu. Gruppuso says her father, Anthony Gruppuso, was fixated on using yuzu in a spirit years before founding the distillery—and before the flavor was trending across food and beverage in the United States. All of the gins except for the dry gin, Abby Gruppuso adds, were originally intended to be seasonal releases. The demand for them was so high year-round, however, that each became a core staple.
When inspiration strikes, few other spirits can compare with gin’s ability to graciously share its spotlight with the ingredients at hand. Whiskey, rum, and agave spirits have their own base-driven profiles going on, and even the most famously neutral spirit can miss the mark.
“Some people go with vodka to explore flavors, but gin has a much better blending form,” says Winn. “You’re getting better, more fully incorporated notes of bitter, sweet, spiced, floral.”
All In on Gin
For some distillers, this kind of versatility
makes gin a strong candidate on which to concentrate entirely. Danielle Leavell studied to become a master distiller in Scotland and learned an approach common in Europe but less so in the U.S., which is to specialize in one spirit. Her decision to build her brand, the Washington state-based Astraea Spirits, on gin speaks to her training overseas as well as to her herbal science studies before her distilling education.
“I became so passionate about botanicals and how they can evoke a sense of place and create true terroir in products like gin,” Leavell says. She embraces the opportunity specialization within one spirit creates for demonstrating the differences particular ingredients and nuances in distilling can make.
Launched in 2022, Astraea gins are fully organic and distilled in the London Dry style to European standards but marry those standards with terroir-driven American botanical profiles to capture the Pacific Northwest’s landscapes. Meadow is floral, citrusy, and herbaceous with lemon balm, lemon verbena, rose hips, and honeysuckle; Ocean is clean with high minerality, distilled with local seaweed; Mist is bright and crisp with orange, chamomile, and licorice; Forest is verdant and lush with balsam fir and spruce; and Desert is
another whiskey-gin hybrid built on a thricedistilled American single malt and distilled with sage leaf, strawberry leaf, oatstraw, and red clover blossom. The industry has taken note: Leavell is only the third American distiller to be installed into the UK Gin Guild since its inception in 1638, and every one of Astraea’s gins took gold at 2025’s Gin Masters, a feat never before accomplished by an American gin brand.
Turning “Gin-cidents” Into Opportunities
Focusing entirely or at least significantly on gin demands an added layer of commitment to consumer education.
“Most folks have had some terrible experience with gin,” Leavell says. “Those are my favorite people.”
“We call those ‘gin-cidents,’” Winn says. “It takes a minute to get people over that…People assume gin is going to be this heavy pinesoaked product their parents had in the house
forever.” Berkshire Mountain offers gin flights in its tasting room, and educational courses with its retailer and restaurant accounts. “We use flavor buzzwords to give people a better idea of what they’ll be drinking. It’s not just juniper and pine, but lemongrass, allspice, orange peel, or lavender.”
At Long Road, O’Connor stresses the need to build trust with your audience. If you establish a reputation for high quality, he explains, people are willing to follow your lead even if you want to do something wildly outside the box—or show them why they need three different gins.
In addition to trust-building, the cocktail component of diverse gin portfolios is crucial. Leavell calls bartenders “the keys to unlocking the kingdom.” Astraea’s current sales focus is about 70 percent on-premise and 30 percent off, with plans to shift that over time as bartenders help consumers understand different gins’ roles in different cocktails.
Gin distillers can rattle off where their different expressions sit in classic cocktail categories. Astraea’s Ocean is perfect for martinis, Forest for Negronis, and Desert is a chameleon that can sub in for whiskey, Leavell says. Winters says Terroir is St. George’s martini gin, Valley is ideal for a Bee’s Knees, Botanivore is great in a Spanishstyle gin and tonic, Dry Rye updates the Old Fashioned, and Dry Rye Reposado does a stellar Martinez. Gin drinks happen to sit in the driver’s seat of the current craft cocktail scene, rivaled perhaps only by tequila and proving more intriguing to bar patrons than vodka. The popularity of martinis, Negronis, and G&Ts acts as a gateway to other gin cocktails, and this evangelizes consumers about what varying gins can do in different recipes. While gin may not be a top seller off-premise—yet—its dominance at the bar stands to help gin distillers sell imbibers on their belief in gin diversity. ■
Spirits of the Silver State
Nevada welcomes travelers from afar to experience what makes the local distilleries so appealing.
BY SYDNEY GERMAN
Despite its arid conditions and known extremes, Nevada has become a place where craft spirits thrive, and the distillers have grown to embrace the land and climate. The people who have made a home here are dedicated to preserving the history of the state and showing off their influential spirits. Nevadans embody a pride and commitment to their state and have no plans of leaving for an “easier” environment.
One such example is Colby Frey, co-founder and owner of Frey Ranch, an estate distillery located in Fallon, Nevada. “My family planted their first crops on the Frey farm more than 150 years ago, and what has always set us apart is our obsessive focus on taking care of our land and cultivating the finest grains,” says Frey. “I’m honor-bound in many ways to uphold this standard. My wife/co-founder, Ashley, and I felt that creating a whiskey was the perfect way to showcase the grains we’re so proud of to a larger audience, and we’re humbled every time we sell out of a limited release, receive a new award, or reach a new milestone. This ability to continue the legacy of our farm through our whiskeys keeps us inspired.”
In 2006, Frey Ranch began creating its award-winning spirits under a federal experimental license. Then, in 2013, the distillery played an important role in getting Nevada’s first craft distilling laws on the books. Through their efforts, Frey Ranch has been critical in putting the state on the map in the craft spirits industry, and it’s continued to take pride in being a West Coast American whiskey brand representing Nevada.
While Frey Ranch has been nurturing its roots in Northern Nevada, many people travel great distances to experience the diverse opportunities and sights and take pleasure in the array of spirits across the state. As Joel Holland, CEO and chief RVer of Harvest Hosts, says, “Nevada offers the perfect blend of dramatic landscapes, wide-open roads, and off-the-beaten-path experiences. Whether it’s stargazing in the high desert, visiting historic mining towns, or exploring the craft beverage scene, there’s something deeply authentic about the Nevada RV experience.”
In Nevada and across the rest of the United States, Harvests Hosts, an RV camping membership, has made it its mission to create a network of special experiences for RV travelers. Distilleries, in particular, have become a popular destination for members because they offer a chance to discover local flavors and stories while also supporting small businesses. More than that, “Our members seek out places that feel like hidden gems,
and Nevada delivers on that in spades. The state is also an important corridor for westward and cross-country travel, so having more Host locations, especially distilleries, adds a fun and unique element to the journey.”
A major hub for RVers and a known tourist destination around the world is, of course, Las Vegas.
One particular distillery that has capitalized on Sin City’s more nefarious history is Underground Speakeasy and Distillery, located in the basement of The Mob Museum at the heart of downtown Las Vegas. David Vondrasek, head distiller, explains how The Underground “provides our visitors the chance to sip award-winning moonshine just steps away from the still where it was made, surrounded by artifacts from America’s most notorious era of illicit drinking. It’s a place where history isn’t just on display—it’s in your glass.”
Not only do travelers have the chance to learn more about the historical presence that the mob had in Vegas, but they get to taste the drink that, in many ways, embodies the spirit of the city. As described by Vondrasek, the “rebellious American spirit associated with moonshine gives us a lot of creative freedom— there aren’t strict definitions for what moonshine has to be.”
While Las Vegas is known for its tourism, The Underground has also seen increased support from the locals who are rediscovering downtown and searching for something handcrafted and local. The speakeasy is a great place for those interested in drinking creative and well-balanced cocktails and even mocktails that offer intentional flavors and a story.
Looking toward the future in Nevada, the excitement among both locals and visitors is palpable as there continues to be an expansion of craft spirits and a love for everything else the state has to offer. There is an effort, Holland says, to help travelers continue to discover more of Nevada’s small towns and hidden gems while driving meaningful revenue to the local businesses that make the state unique.
“Nevada has always had a wide-open approach to hospitality; this is a place where the bars never close and the cocktail culture thrives around the clock,” says Vondrasek. “But for small craft distillers, the path isn’t always smooth.” That being said, Vondrasek explains how Nevada has never been afraid to shake things up because innovation is baked into the DNA of the state. Nevadans have persevered through Prohibition and the dry climate to continue creating world-class spirits.
Frey agrees that the future of craft spirits in Nevada looks bright as buyers continue to gravitate toward “farm-to-glass” messaging and the offer of “locally sourced” spirits.
For distillers like Frey Ranch and The Underground, Vondrasek notes that “we’re playing the long game. Our focus is on thoughtful growth, strengthening our ties to the local community, expanding what we offer, and continuing to share the rich history behind every pour.” ■
“Nevada has
always had a wide-open approach to hospitality; this is a place where the bars never close and the cocktail culture thrives around the clock.”
- David Vondrasek of The Underground Speakeasy & Distillery
WHO’S WHO IN CRAFT SPIRITS
Getting to know ACSA member producers in their own words
Adventure Spirits Distilling
Founded in 2023 by Joe Carter and Barry Beale in Whitehouse, Ohio, Adventure Spirits Distilling is a veteran-owned operation with a strong local focus. The distillery pairs full-scale production with a welcoming cocktail lounge and a growing lineup of spirits.
Distilled Down: We are a Servicedisabled, veteran-owned, full-production distillery with a cocktail lounge providing all of the experiences of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, right here in Northwest Ohio, with a focus on all things local.
Vibe: Sophisticated, yet comfortable and relaxed.
Playlist: Classic rock and pop.
Inspiration: Barrels for Hope Charity, Maumee Valley Whiskey Society, Pursuit Spirits, Whiskey Thief Distillery, and Watch Hill Proper.
Flagship Spirit: Straight Bourbon
Additional Notable Spirits: Rye Whiskey, Gin, and Rum.
Buzzworthy: For 2025, we were the official distillery of the Toledo Air Show and Toledo Jeep Fest, and created a private label bottling for each of them.
In the Near Future: We’ll release batch three of our Cigar Blend in October and a 12-year, double-oaked American whiskey in November.
The Distant Future: In 10 years we hope to be an estate distillery with our own fields, restaurant and lodging.
Advice for Anyone Thinking About Starting a Distillery: Find your key fans and build a great local brand around where you are. Bring people to you and provide a great product and amazing experience.
Learn more at adventurespiritsdistilling.com.
R/Farm Distilling Co.
Founded in 2022 by the Rosier family in Mound City, Missouri, R/Farm Distilling Co. is rooted in four generations of farming. What began as a way to add value to their row crop farm has grown into a full-fledged family distillery, where every step of the process—from planting grain to bottling spirits—stays close to home.
Distilled Down: We are truly a family operation, and we are the American farmer. R/Farm Distilling Co. grew out of a fourth-generation family row crop farm. We started the distillery with the goal of adding value to not only our farm but also the community around us. We can promise our product is as authentic as possible. We have our hands on every step of the process from planting seed for the best quality grain, distilling high quality spirits, aging the barrels, and bottling the product at the end of the long-awaited process.
Vibe: We promote a laid-back, fun, family atmosphere. It was our goal from the beginning to provide a location where visitors can experience our farm, enjoy our great views of Northwest Missouri, and responsibly enjoy quality spirits.
Playlist: We like to mix it up at the distillery, but classic rock and country tend to dominate the playlist.
Inspiration: When we investigated starting R/ Farm Distilling Co., we visited many distilleries and took valuable information away from all of them. Some of the top distilleries that had an influence on us include Kentucky Peerless Distilling Co., Wilderness Trail Distillery, Cedar Ridge Distillery, Leopold Bros., and Frey Ranch Distillery.
Notable Spirits: We did not source whiskey when we started the company in 2022. We wanted all of our whiskey products to come from grain that we grew on the farm, distilled onsite, and aged on the farm. We are just now releasing some early bourbon and rye whiskey products at the distillery, and they are quickly becoming our flagship products. While waiting on our whiskey to age, we have had great success with our Cherry Limeade Flavored Vodka, Tangerine Ginger Flavored Vodka, Baked Apple Flavored Whiskey, and Gooey Butter Cake Cream Liquor.
Buzzworthy: By far the most exciting news for R/Farm Distilling Co. recently has been our decision to sign on with a distributor in Missouri. We have been self distributing our products to this point. Moving on to a Missouri distributor that can take our products across the state has always been a goal of the company.
In the Near Future: In the coming months we are excited to release our first Rye Whiskey into the market. This will be the first distributed whiskey product for R/Farm Distilling Co. No details yet on the product or when it may hit shelves in Missouri—stay tuned. Most recently we have released a limited Wheat Whiskey in conjunction with our wheat harvest. We plan to release a version of a wheat whiskey annually with each harvest. Lastly, we are always excited to promote our Harvest Fest at the distillery. As farmers, we take this opportunity to promote agriculture and how it ties into our distillery. The combines onsite are always a hit.
The Distant Future: In 10 years we want R/ Farm Distilling Co. to be a successful regional brand that can provide quality jobs to our community in rural Northwest Missouri.
Advice for Anyone Thinking About Starting a Distillery: Ask a lot of questions and get input from other distilleries in the industry. We wouldn’t be where we are today without the help of others in the beginning. Also, be flexible and prepared to adjust to what works for you and accept what didn’t work.
Learn more at rfarmdistilling.com.
DRINKS TO SAVOR FROM ACSA MEMBERS
Falernum and Tonic
Maggie’s Farm Rum Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
This rum-based concoction features Maggie’s Farm’s falernum liqueur. Historically, falernum is a spiced liqueur. At some point, most Caribbean rum distillers had their own versions, but the surviving recipe is based on the Barbados version, which features lime, ginger, and clove, infused with a base of rum. This cocktail puts all those flavors forward with falernum as the base ingredient, but uses an Angostura float not only for presentation, but to balance the sweetness of the heavy citrus liqueur addition.
Ingredients:
½ ounce Maggie’s Farm White Rum
1 ½ ounce of Maggie’s Farm
Falernum Liqueur
¼ ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice
Directions:
Pour over ice into a collins glass, top the glass off with tonic, stir, and top with Angostura bitters
Strawberry Thai Basil Lemonade
R/Farm Distilling Co.
Mound City, Missouri
R/Farm Strawberry Thai Basil Lemonade makes for the perfect summer sipper. Made with R/Farm’s 100% locally grown vodka, it is smooth, subtly sweet, a little tart, and so refreshing. Make it to spice up any of your summer activities.
Cocktail Ingredients:
1 1/2 ounce R/Farm Vodka
1 1/2 ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice
¾ oz strawberry Thai basil simple syrup
Strawberry Thai Basil Simple Syrup
Ingredients:
1 cup strawberries (washed, hulled, chopped)
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
1 bundle (10 sprigs) Thai basil
Cocktail Directions:
Add all ingredients to a shaker tin with ice. Shake until chilled. Strain into a highball glass with fresh ice. Garnish with a sprig of Thai basil and a strawberry on the rim. Enjoy!
Thai Basil Simple Syrup Directions: Add ingredients to a pot and heat on the stovetop on medium-high heat. Stir continuously and cook until the mixture has reached a boil. Let the mixture simmer for a few minutes until the strawberries have softened and the juices are red. Turn off the heat and allow the mixture to cool on the stovetop. When cool, strain the mixture to collect the syrup. Discard the solids. Store the simple syrup in the refrigerator.
The Bourbon Berry Bramble Minden Mill Distilling
Minden, Nevada
There’s a vast array of terroir-driven American whiskeys coming out right now—including one from Nevada’s Sierra Nevada Region called Minden Mill Distilling Co. The distillery has a Nevada Straight Bourbon that delivers on a more savory and balanced profile than you might expect, and Minden Mill is enjoying using it in its signature Bourbon Berry Bramble cocktail, developed by mixologist Lucas Hoff.
Ingredients:
1 1/2 ounce Minden Mill Straight Bourbon Whiskey
1 ounce blackberry syrup
1/2 fresh lime
Soda water
Fresh thyme and blackberries for garnish
Directions:
Add fresh lime to the bottom of the shaker and gently press with a muddle. Add remaining ingredients and shake gently with ice. Double strain into a lowball glass filled with ice. Top with soda water and garnish with berries and thyme.
Fritztown Gin Martini
Salvation Spirits
Fredericksburg, Texas
The Fritztown Gin Martini, crafted by Salvation Spirits in Fredericksburg, Texas, is a sophisticated take on the classic cocktail that highlights the artistry of local distillation. This martini features Salvation’s artisanal gin, renowned for its bright botanical notes and a smooth, crisp finish. Enjoying it served ice-cold, this cocktail is elegantly garnished with a twist of lemon or an olive, enhancing its refreshing character. Perfectly balanced, it embodies the spirit of Fredericksburg’s vibrant craft cocktail scene, making it an exceptional choice for gin enthusiasts and cocktail connoisseurs alike.
Ingredients:
2 1/2 ounce Fritztown Gin ½ ounce Dry Vermouth
Directions
Fill a mixing glass with ice and add 2 1/2 ounces of gin and 1/2 ounce of dry vermouth. Stir gently until well chilled, then double strain the mixture into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a lemon twist or an olive, and serve immediately.
THE SIPPING SCENE
Drop Dead Gorgeous Tempe, Arizona
The Tip: Velvet booths wait for no one—make a reservation, and yes, that outfit is worth it.
Tucked inside a restaurant called the Filthy Animal is one of the most transportive cocktail experiences in the Southwest. The journey begins in the main restaurant, with equal parts design-forward and inviting.
Velvet booths, palm fronds, and gold-drenched drapery set the tone. It feels like mid-century glam collided with desert luxe.
Add in the open kitchen, where chefs work over live flames, and you’ve got a space that’s pure sensory theater. Smoke, spice, and citrus mingle in the air, pulling you deeper toward what feels like a secret as you walk through.
Fittingly named Drop Dead Gorgeous, the speakeasy is a fever dream of mood lighting, velvet, and disco magic. Imagine a space designed by a disco ball and a Bond villain with exquisite taste. Geometric light sculptures hover overhead, glowing rings wrap the ceiling like halos, and plush velvet seating stretches out in deep garnet hues. It’s sexy. It’s moody. It’s a little sci-fi and a little Studio 54.
Though it had only been open 10 days, the team was already operating at an incredibly high service level. We showed up looking more “weather-worn Arizona casual” than “evening chic,” but the staff welcomed us with warmth and zero pretension. They were quick, attentive, helpful—all the things you hope for in a polished service team, but rarely expect from a brand-new bar.
The cocktails? Nothing short of alchemy. Every drink on the Drop Dead Gorgeous menu reads like a chef’s tasting menu in a glass, layered, unexpected, and wildly creative. Think tahini green walnut with fig liquor and cacao nib. Or rum with shiitake, palm sugar, and smoked salt. Even the vodka soda has flair; it’s dressed up with curaçao, burdock root, and rosemary. Each pairing is bold, intentional,
and perfectly executed.
The standout? “Coffee, No Cream.” A brandy, rum, and sherry blend shaken with espresso, citrus, and vanilla liqueur—it’s everything you didn’t know you needed in an espresso cocktail. Smooth, complex, and just playful enough to keep you guessing.
Drop Dead Gorgeous is the kind of bar that makes you want to whisper secrets, stay too long, and tell just enough people that it still feels like your find. It has all the sparkle and exclusiveness of a highend hideaway, but none of the snobbery. You feel like you’ve entered a world of velvet and vintage glam with your most fabulous friends—and somehow, the whole place makes you feel like you belong there. Fancy, fun, and effortlessly cool, this is the Tempe you weren’t expecting. Stephanie Sadri
BY
PHOTO
STEPHANIE SADRI,
The Shack on 8th Virginia Beach, Virginia
The Tip: Keep an eye out for the happenings, like live music or paint-and-sip night.
The Scene: Open-air bar that offers fresh juice cocktails, a variety of games, and plenty of room for any kind of gathering.
The Vibe: Located a step away from the vibrancy of the Virginia Beach oceanfront is a self-proclaimed outdoor oasis during the summer. Overflowing with life and the lingering aroma of freshly squeezed oranges, the venue encourages everyone to unplug, unwind, and find respite under the Edison string lights and palm trees. A favorite of tourists and locals alike, The Shack on 8th offers a personalized experience for each patron with an expansive drink menu that lists their popular cocktails and crushes. Any drink choice pairs well with the variety of delicious kitchen selections or the culinary craftsmanship of Chef Aymer’s food bus. To help keep things lively, the bar schedules happy hours and events throughout the summer months. Frequently, local artists are invited to provide live music for any crowd, but there are also more exclusive happenings like trivia nights and vendor markets that may require a purchased ticket before the event. For larger parties, The Shack allows reservations in the more secluded areas of the outdoor space or recommends checking out their nearby sister locations: Waterman’s Surfside Grille and Chix on the Beach. However, no matter the number of people in your group, you can engage in inspiring conversations around the fire pit or some healthy competition during a game of cornhole while sipping on a crush and listening to a selection of rhythmic music. Whether you’re in town visiting or live nearby, this haven is the perfect spot to refuel and enjoy time near the ocean. —Sydney German
Melrose Spirit Company Grand Junction, Colorado
The Tip: With less than 30 seats, it’s the perfect setting for a small gathering
The Scene: An intimate neo-tiki bar with an iconic pink neon sign reading, “THIS MUST BE THE PLACE”
The Vibe: Melrose Spirit Company sits inside the recently renovated Melrose boutique hotel. An unassuming side door opens into a small yet comfortable cocktail bar. The atmosphere pays homage to the building’s 1800s roots. Plush black velvet lines the booths and stools, accented by brass touches. The walls are dark, and the artwork signals a splash of edgy modernity. Two shelves on the back wall tell it all: the liquor selection is curated, and tiki mugs are plentiful. Jamaican rums and agricoles command attention, flanked by espadín mezcals. You can spot a bottle of gin or whiskey, while vodka is scarce. Intriguing bottles line the higher shelf, including Montenegro Amaro and Tempus Fugit Creme de Banane (made with banana peels). The vibe is lively, with a signature staff as friendly and sharp-witted as its single-page menu. The 10ish offerings rotate at Melrose. Occasionally, items feature subtle refinements to past iterations. Each drink embraces the current season with sun-punched flavors and a sense of fun.
“Satan is a Swinger,” a riff on a Zombie with pomegranate, is a sensual nod to the hotel’s rumored past. “Velvet Jungle” embodies the bar, with a tropical cordial and brown butter mixed with rum. There are a few menu staples, too. The bartenders craft espresso martinis with beans from a local cafe a block away. The classic Jungle Bird signals Melrose is a very pineapple (and very bitter!) friendly scene. The pink neon on the wall boasts, “THIS MUST BE THE PLACE.” It’s absolutely the place in town to “talk shop” and grab a strong, tropical-inspired cocktail. —Kristiane Weeks-Rogers
GROWING AWARENESS
Regenerative farming could play a key role in the future of craft distilling.
BY JOHN HOLL
As craft distillers look for ways to provide exceptional spirits while also respecting agriculture and a changing climate, some are turning to regenerative grains. Farms across the country are experimenting in their fields to get the most from the land with minimal impact and respect for natural resources.
This offers a lot of opportunities for distillers that want to have a better relationship with farmers, create flavorful spirits, and have a conversation about conservation with consumers.
One recent example of this is Brother’s
“When talking about regenerative farming, it is about minimizing soil disturbance, leaving roots in the soil for as many days a year as possible. We can focus on keeping living roots in the soil by doing things like cover cropping with a variety of different types of plants.”
—Heyward Gualandi, Root Shoot Malting
Bond Bourbon, which announced its first-ever micro-batch single barrel release. Brother’s Bond calls it Regenerative Grain Straight Bourbon and use grain harvested from regenerative grain farming.
The result, the company says, “offers a rich complexity, deep character, and a long, satisfying finish, making it a must-try for whiskey enthusiasts and sustainability advocates alike. Each sip embodies the harmony of nature and craftsmanship.”
To better understand what that harmony means, it helps to appreciate the nature of regenerative farming. It can vary from farm to farm, but it is considered a holistic approach to the land that often focuses on soil health, water conservation, and promoting biodiversity.
“Small distilleries are ideally situated to tell a compelling story to distinguish their brand in a crowded and competitive market place by touting their work with local farmers,” says Ron Silberstein, the co-founder and proprietor of Admiral Maltings in Alameda, California. “Farmers that follow sustainable, regenerative, or organic practices, and [are] identifying functional terroir in their product—are not wholly different from a quality vintner.”
Back to the Roots
Colorado’s Root Shoot Malting has been focused on regenerative farming for nearly a decade. Part of Olander Farms in Loveland, a fifth-generation business that has been in existence for nearly a century, Root Shoot was founded by Todd Olander and originally conceived as an opportunity to save the farm, says Heyward Gualandi, the farm’s sales director.
While most of Root Shoot’s work involves the brewing industry, the farm has seen an uptick in craft distillers wanting regenerative grain for their single malt whiskeys. Gualandi says this is not only for the flavor but for the backstory.
“When talking about regenerative farming, it is about minimizing soil disturbance, leaving roots in the soil for as many days a year as possible,” he says. “We can focus on keeping living roots in the soil by doing things like cover cropping with a variety of different types of plants. Legumes are great,
“Small distilleries are ideally situated to tell a compelling story to distinguish their brand in a crowded and competitive market place by touting their work with local farmers. Farmers that follow sustainable, regenerative, or organic practices, and [are] identifying functional terroir in their product—are not wholly different from a quality vintner.”
—Ron Silberstein, Admiral Maltings
nitrogen fixers—turnips, radishes, flax, all kinds of cool things.”
By keeping the soil nutrient-rich, it lessens the need for water usage. Root Shoot also works with local dairy farms to bring in cattle to roam the fields and eat the cover crops, keeping the subterranean ecology intact.
“It’s about resiliency,” he says. “We must also be quality-driven. And we can’t just grow stuff because it’s great to grow. We must grow stuff because folks want to use it to make the best beverages that they can.”
Why Regenerative Grain Matters
With ingredient costs rising and consumer spending weakening, why should craft distillers be embracing regenerative grain, which can sometimes, but not always, be more expensive? In part, it’s a bet on the future. As
No-GN barley, assuring low levels of Ethyl Carbamate
Designed for all-malt whiskeys
Sweet & bready, with notes of honey
Available in whole kernel and flour
farms look to conservation efforts, they need customer support. It is also a good marketing and conversation opportunity to reach drinkers who want to know their tipple is the product of sustainable practices.
“At the end of the day, especially on the spirit side, it’s going to be all about yield,” says Gualandi. “Yield is just a function of starch in the kernel. If protein is higher, starch is lower, so healthy soil that’s holding water that is accessible to the plant’s root structure is going to have a lower protein content. Not that this can’t be achieved by just dumping more water on a growing plant. It can be achieved in that way. But that’s not efficient.”
Gualandi said the farm’s goal is always going to be about yield.
“We are trying to accomplish high yield for
the distiller and reduce input, and this is how we’ve been able to lower prices in the face of things like increased fuel cost,” he says.
Gualandi noted that during a recent analysis, the farm revealed that it was using less fuel than before. Because of the regenerative practices, the workers were driving tractors over acres of land three or four times fewer per year than they had with traditional farming practices. “So there goes a fuel input cost. We’re using less water. That’s expensive in northern Colorado.”
For Olander, seeing the soil change and the results of the practices has been rewarding, and he hopes others will follow.
“I understand why farmers aren’t doing it,” he says. It’s a risk that you’re taking on and the fear of the unknown, because there are not a
lot of people that are that are doing this.”
He said that in his part of the state, his farm is the only one using regenerative practices.
“I’m hoping that farmers are looking at us and seeing that we are leading the way and being a pathfinder of showing people that there is a different route, and it can be profitable and it will be more resilient over time.”
Still, Gualandi says that when he talks with brewers and distillers about the practices the farm is implementing, he can sometimes see that the full attention is not there.
“There are people that are really paying attention to their ingredients, and there are some that aren’t,” he says. “I give a lot of credit to the folks that continue to work with us and pay a premium because they believe what we’re doing is for the greater good.” ■
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A BREAK-GLASS MOMENT?
Packaging tariffs could have far-reaching effects for many craft distillers—and for the industry as a whole.
BY ANDREW KAPLAN
Like many craft distilleries, Brooklyn, New York-based Kings County Distillery has always prided itself on being American-made. “Our corn comes from New York, our barrels from West Virginia or Missouri,” says co-founder Colin Spoelman, listing some of the domestic ingredients that go into producing his awardwinning whiskeys.
So, Spoelman finds it ironic that his company was recently penalized in the form of a tariff-induced price hike on one of the few things he buys from abroad: his bottles. He recently had to pay an additional $5,000 for the glass bottles made in the United Kingdom.
Spoelman says it is one more rising cost craft distillers like himself don’t need right now. “It has to be taken in context when everything else is kind of creeping up,” he says, pointing out the organic corn he purchases from a farm in upstate New York recently jumped in price by 40% because of the ripple effects of the war in Ukraine.
Lost Lantern Whiskey, which procures
much of its packaging supply from India and Mexico, is in a similar boat.
“Generally, for small businesses during uncertain times, it’s just so hard to plan,” says Nora Ganley-Roper, co-founder of Vergennes, Vermont-based Lost Lantern. “And the tariffs make the whole cycle of running a business way more unsettled than in other times. Things are funky with market conditions to begin with in the alcohol industry. So, it feels like just another added worry for distillers.”
Other craft distillers, however, have yet to feel any tariff-related impact on their packaging. One is Peggy Hendricks of Hendricks Family Distillery in Omro, Wisconsin, who procures her packaging materials only from domestic suppliers.
Another is Pete Keares, co-owner of Lancaster Craft Spirits Distillery in Pennsylvania, who says he hasn’t felt any significant effects of the tariffs so far on his packaging. But like Spoelman with his corn, he has experienced rising prices in other
ingredients. “A big price jump I have encountered is coffee beans, which we use in our coffee liqueur,” he says.
And yet, while the actual cost impact of the tariffs when it comes to obtaining packaging materials is mixed, it is having an impact on craft distillers in other far-reaching ways.
Custom Bottles Under Pressure
The tariffs have forced some distillers to trade down from the more bespoke bottles to stock offerings made domestically.
Swilled Dog in West Virginia has had to do just that, says CEO & co-founder Brooke Glover. Prices rose by around 20 percent from the Canadian bottle supplier she used for her ultra-premium product line, resulting in her decision to switch to a lower-cost domestic supplier, which is not what she’d prefer. “So, we just decided to go with something a little more stock instead of something that would set us apart for our more premium, ultrapremium products,” she says.
While for other distillers, just the potential impact of tariffs is making them appreciate the alternative bottles they have been using that much more. For example, in Colorado, P.T. Wood, Head Alchemist at Wood’s High Mountain Distillery, worries about the rising costs of procuring his 750 ml. aluminum bottles.
Wood says the bottles have proven a hit with customers who like the package’s durability and lighter weight than glass, especially given the rustic setting where his distillery is located.
“We really, really like them, and we’re sticking with that and hope that more and more consumers see the value in that type of packaging,” Wood says. “But I will say it’s challenging. The only place to get a 750 ml. aluminum bottle that is sturdy enough for our use, which is a non-carbonated liquid, is out of China. So, the uncertainty around tariffs is a huge concern.”
It seems one unexpected result of the tariffs may be a more generic craft spirits shelf in the coming years.
The Ripple Effects
The tariffs on packaging materials are affecting spirits operations in other ways. Some have had to move up costs that would have normally been stretched out over longer periods, while others have decided to forego investments in expansions.
For example, when the tariffs were first announced, some tried to get ahead of them—at least as much as they possibly could. Lost Lantern’s Ganley-Roper says she decided to “be nimble” and front-load the purchasing of an extra five pallets, 6,000 bottles, in April to last through the summer. This was on top of her normal purchase just a couple of months earlier.
“Because we’re in stock bottles, I was able to order a bunch of pallets with pre-tariff pricing ahead of it. So, we’re stuffed to the gills,” she says. “But she also realizes she is only biding time. “I haven’t yet had to order once the tariff pricing hit. It will come. But there’s a chance that things will have settled down by then. There’s just so much uncertainty at this point.”
Another ripple effect, at least partly due to the tariffs on packaging materials, has been the decision to put off any new major initiatives. The uncertainty around the costs of procuring packaging materials has scrambled attempts to even think about things like expansion, for example. Instead, some distillers have decided to hunker down for now.
“The uncertainty of not knowing how much our packaging supplies are going to cost makes running a business exceptionally challenging right now,” says Lance Winters, master distiller with Alameda, California-based St. George Spirits. “We can order bottles from the EU today at a set price, and work that into our pricing. If tariffs hit before the product leaves the port, we end up paying a higher price than projected.”
At the time of this writing, the EU had agreed to a 15% tariff on exports to the U.S., half of the previously threatened 30%.
“This increased cost harms American businesses like ours under the guise of protecting high-end domestically produced packaging supplies, which simply don’t exist at the quality level we require,” Winters says. “While our labels are printed here in California, American printers may be relying on inks or papers from outside of the country, which would have even more impact on our business. One more unknown to contend with.”
Despite all the uncertainty, Winters says St. George, “has no intention of changing our packaging to try to mitigate the effects of the tariffs. Our packaging is the introduction to who we are and is the result of years of searching for the right materials and trustworthy vendors we can rely upon to meet our quality standards.”
Swilled Dog’s Glover says she can understand some of the motivations behind the tariffs. But also feels they can be used less haphazardly.
“I feel that if you can just hold the course, we’re going to get through everything. And I think everyone’s feeling that way, but you can only do that for so long,” says Glover. “For me, I just need the predictability. That’s what I’m looking for. I need to know what’s coming. I need to know that there’s a runway on any large global economic decisions. And I feel like a lot of the other craft distillers are feeling that way as well.”
Piling On
The domestic glass industry’s position, conveyed via The Glass Packaging Institute (GPI), is to support specific targeted tariffs on countries like China where there is evidence of unfair trade practices.
“We have supported U.S. tariffs on Chinese imports because there’s evidence of statesponsored support from the government of China that is significantly undermining domestic production of [bottles],” says Scott DeFife, GPI President, who adds that the more broad-based tariffs currently being enacted
Colin Spoelman
Nora Ganley-Roper
Lance Winters
Brooke Glover
“can cause more damage than good.” DeFife also reminds craft distillers that there is a way for some bottles produced in China to be exempted from the tariffs
if distillers meet certain criteria: the bottle comes from a single foreign source, cannot be produced domestically, and is critical to your company. However, those interested should check on the details since exclusions often have to be renewed after a year and can also be difficult to obtain.
In the meantime, craft distillers are trying to cope with yet another burden piled onto a never-ending series in recent years.
Spoelman posits that the tariffs on packaging materials taken along with other external stresses—declining alcohol consumption amongst some demographics, for example— could accelerate changes to the very nature of the craft spirits industry.
“A tiny, 5,000-case brand that’s still independently owned and trying to participate in a global economy in an upstart way—that was very doable for us for 15 years, and is now getting incredibly challenging,” he says.
“I think there’s now going to be two different kinds of craft spirits. One is the tourist-oriented destination distillery that does a barrel a day and is not trying to take over the world. And then there’s the kind that get protected and shepherded by an international, global conglomerate in the way that we’ve seen a lot of craft distillers get [acquired] or part of a sort of venture program.”
“There really just isn’t a path to be an independent, national brand. We’re still there, fighting the fight, but we may have to focus locally for a little while and then recalibrate our ambitions.”
Adds Glover: “You can’t just switch on and off economies and expect everyone to be able to catch up that quickly, especially as a craft distiller, as a small-scale producer, we just can’t absorb all of that. … Can we use a carve out for little things that we know are truly American?” ■
Scott DeFife
METHANOL, HEADS, BOILING POINTS, AND MISCIBILITY
Dispelling misconceptions about cuts
BY TYLER DERHEIM
While consulting for FIVE x 5, I’ve been lucky enough to meet distillers from all walks of life, and at all stages of the learning process. One of the appealing things about this industry is that you can always learn more—I’ve been doing it since 2018, and I still learn something new almost every week. With that in mind, allow me to get into the weeds a little bit on a frequently misunderstood topic: boiling points, methanol, and separation in distillation.
Many distillers believe in a falsehood about the chemical properties of fermented mashes/ beer and spirits. The falsehood states that lower-boiling-point components of your beer (for example, methanol with a boiling point of 148.5˚F) will independently and separately “boil off” or evaporate while leaving behind higher-boiling-point compounds like ethyl
alcohol (173˚F) and water (212˚F). I have heard, more times than I can count, a distiller claim that they leave the still manhole open (or discard collections) when the pot liquid is under 173˚F, with the express purpose of eliminating methanol and/or higher-boiling-point compounds from the final product.
This mental picture of different components independently boiling at their respective boiling points is correct when you have liquids that do not mix. For example, if you put a 50/50 mix of olive oil and water into a still, the water component would boil at around 212˚F, leaving behind most of the olive oil, which would probably never hit its 570˚F boiling point. (Pedantic note: some of the oil would carry over with the water—this is how essential oil distillation works. It is a mechanical carry-over effect
rather than vaporization of oil).
The nature of ethanol, water, methanol, and most other alcohols is different. When you combine them, they form what’s called a miscible solution. A miscible solution is homogeneous by definition. The key to understanding miscible solutions is that they have their own boiling point and other chemical properties, arising from the relative concentrations of the components. They stop acting like ethanol or water and start acting like a blend of the two, with properties in between the properties of those components. In typical beverage distillation, the properties of the miscible solution are dominated by the effects of the ethanol and water, since all other compounds are present only in trace quantities. Nonetheless, these trace quantities also affect the boiling
point and other properties of the mixture.
Consider a mixture of ethanol, water, and trace alcohols, testing at 50% ABV. This liquid has a boiling point of about 180˚F. Until the temperature reaches 180˚F, none of the liquid is evaporating. (This is the stage where distillers mistakenly believe that methanol is independently separating).
Once it reaches 180˚F, all components (ethanol, water, methanol, etc.) begin boiling simultaneously (remember, it’s a homogenous solution) and carry over to your collection. Alcohols and other compounds wind up concentrated in the collected fractions, while water ends up concentrated in the stillage (leftover in the pot). If there is methanol in your beer, then there is methanol in your collected spirits. And, there is almost certainly more methanol (percentage-wise) in the distillate compared with the beer. After all, distillation is a purification (concentration) process. This is a fact that may be hard to
hear. This means that the distiller’s primary job—making cuts—is mostly about flavor and not about purification or separation. You do not have as much control over the distillate’s composition as you may think you do.
The only time this is untrue is if you have a “de-meth column,” which is only found at large alcohol plants and costs millions of dollars. Even at that expense, a de-meth column is only able to remove a couple dozen PPM of methanol from the final product.
You might be saying, “well, that’s true for a pot still—but we have a column!”
I’m here to tell you that it doesn’t really matter. You are still collecting a blend of components in your distillate, unless you have the aforementioned de-meth column. With a column, you may be able to capture a bit more
methanol in your heads draw, compared with a “cut” on a pot still, but you’re still playing in the margins and you’re still collecting lots of non-ethanol compounds in your “hearts”.
For some semi-scientific backing, there are some interesting threads online where folks have independently tested the methanol and isobutanol concentrations in collected distillate from pot distillation. Counterintuitively, isobutanol (boiling point 226˚F) was concentrated in the heads/foreshots, while methanol (boiling point 148.5˚F) was concentrated in the tails. The chemistry involved is more complicated than meets the eye—the presence of water complicates the behavior of the alcohols during distillation.
Therefore, distillers should focus on making cuts based on flavor profiles or economic
reasons rather than attempting to eliminate methanol through cuts driven by temperature readings. Understanding the chemistry of miscible solutions is essential for producing high-quality spirits. ■
Tyler Derheim is FIVE x 5’s in-house consultant and self-described compliance nerd, leveraging his diverse expertise to help distilleries of all sizes make it easier to make great things.
RAISING THE BAR ON LOWERING THE RISK
With the growing focus on health and wellness, many people are concerned about the safety of alcohol and choosing to reduce their consumption. Just this year, the Surgeon General recommended updated labels to warn that alcohol consumption causes several types of cancer. In this climate, it’s more important than ever for distillers to maintain product safety and comply with regulations. While we can’t eliminate the inherent risks associated with ethanol itself, we can address other controllable health hazards in our spirits. One such risk, which is more common than you might think, is ethyl carbamate.
Ethyl Carbamate (EC) is an ethyl ester of carbamic acid that forms naturally during fermentation of things like bread, soy sauce, beer, wine, and spirits. EC was initially used as a medicine, particularly in the treatment of multiple myeloma (a type of plasma cell cancer) before it was discovered to be toxic and largely ineffective. The possible carcinogenicity of EC was discovered in 1943 and The International Agency for Research of Cancer (IARC) subsequently classified EC as “possibly carcinogenic to humans” (Group 2B). Public health concerns were raised in 1985 when relatively high levels were found in alcoholic beverages tested by Canadian authorities. After further research and review, the IARC updated the classification of EC to “probably carcinogenic to humans” (Group 2A) in 2007 after EC was shown to be genotoxic and a multisite carcinogen in all animals tested. EC regulations in spirits are stringent depending on the country due to this carcinogenic potential. For example,
in Canada all new product registrations must be below 125 ppb (parts per billion). In the United States, the FDA recommends that EC levels in distilled spirits should not exceed 125 ppb.
EC in beverages is generally formed via two main routes. The first is where precursors like arginine and citrulline are metabolized by yeast and/or bacteria during fermentation to form urea which then reacts with ethanol to form EC. This type of formation is a concern for non-distilled beverages like wine and beer, but not for distilled beverages (more on that later). For distillers, the typical route of EC formation of concern is the hydrolysis of cyanogenic glycosides.
Cyanogenic glycosides are a group of water-soluble substances that occur in more than 2,500 plant species where they function in the defense of these plants against pathogenic organisms and many herbivorous animals. Because of this, over time the farming of many plants has inadvertently selected higher levels of these substances to provide better protection for crops. Hydrolysis of cyanogenic glycosides occurs via beta-glucosidase from either storage within the plant cells that release when damaged, or those produced by yeast and bacteria. This hydrolysis yields a cyanohydrin and a sugar. Most cyanohydrins are unstable in aqueous solutions and decompose spontaneously to their corresponding ketone or aldehyde and hydrogen cyanide. It is this hydrogen cyanide that oxidizes to form cyanate, which can then react with ethanol to form EC.
After distillation, any remaining precursors in the spirit can continue to react and form EC in the barrel or bottle. EC is relatively nonvolatile, and as such, as ethanol and water leave the cask during maturation, EC levels rise incrementally with the percentage of liquid lost in the barrel each year. EC will also continue to form in unmatured bottled spirits. Inevitably, most distillate will reach max levels in bottle in 3-12 months. Because of this, it is essential to monitor EC levels in both freshly distilled spirits and those undergoing aging as this helps in understanding how EC levels change over time and implement strategies to minimize its formation.
Do you have a potential EC problem?
The answer to that is largely dependent on the type of substrate being used to produce spirits, and the subsequent levels of precursors found therein. Unfortunately, many of the agricultural products used in spirits production today have cyanogenic glycosides, and thus it’s important to understand where these precursors are present to reduce the potential for EC formation in our final spirits.
In malted barley, the primary precursor that reacts to form EC in new-make whiskey is epiheterodendrin (EPH), often referred to simply as glycosidic nitrile (GN). EPH is found in the acrospire of germinating barley grains. While the mashing process typically denatures betaglucosidase in the grains, during fermentation, beta-glucosidase from yeast and bacteria acts on EPH, leading to hydrogen cyanide
Tackling ethyl carbamate in distilled beverages
BY ROX TIBUROLOBO
production. Higher levels of GN correlate with smaller grains, as the acrospire constitutes a larger percentage of the kernel. Malthouse practices—such as longer germination times and increased moisture—that optimize malt for better modification and higher enzyme activity which are desirable for distillers, also increase GN content. As a result, barley breeders have collaborated with maltsters to develop low GN and GN0 (glycosidic nitrilefree) barley varieties and malt products that are increasingly more available. Breeding programs, genetic research, field trials, industry collaboration, and regulatory approval are essential in the continued development and adoption of new barley varieties with reduced or non-existent GN levels. It’s important to note that EPH is also the main EC precursor found in rye, though it is less studied and regulated than in malted barley.
In sugarcane, the cyanogenic precursor is dhurrin which was the first cyanogenic glycoside ever isolated in a laboratory. During the production of cane spirits, dhurrin can break down to release cyanide, which subsequently forms EC, and both molasses and cane juice have the potential to yield EC precursors. Studies have shown that different sugarcane varieties have varying levels of dhurrin. These varietal differences are thought to be due to varying levels of the single amino acid tyrosine, while urea and nitrogen fertilizers also promote the formation of dhurrin. This makes varietal selection and agricultural practices crucial in developing cane products with lower potential for EC formation.
In stone and pomme fruit brandies, EC formation is primarily driven by the presence of amygdalin, a precursor found in the pits and seeds of fruits like cherries, apricots, apples, pears and plums. During fermentation, amygdalin is enzymatically broken down into glucose, benzaldehyde, and hydrogen cyanide, which then reacts with ethanol to form EC. Removal or reduction of the number of pits and seeds present is crucial for the control of EC in stone and pomme fruit brandies.
This is by no means a comprehensive list as there are also precursors present in varying levels in agave, rice, and other agricultural products used for spirits, which is why testing for EC and its precursors is essential to establish a baseline and ensure that final spirit remains within safe limits.
Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) is the preferred method for EC testing due to its high sensitivity and accuracy, which involves separating sample components and identifying them based on their
mass-to-charge ratio. Other methods, such as High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) and Enzyme-Linked Immunosorbent Assay (ELISA), are quicker and less expensive, but less precise and accurate. For some precursors, ion exchange chromatography or spectrophotometric techniques can be used, but this requires the use of toxic cyanide standards, posing safety and waste disposal issues. An easier method involves converting all precursors to EC, which can then be measured directly via GC-MS. To determine the maximum EC achievable, precursors in a spirit sample can be converted to EC by accelerating the reaction over three days with copper chloride and UV light. The precursor level is then determined by subtracting the EC level in the native spirit without light treatment (EC Max – EC as is = EC precursor).
What can you do to prevent EC precursors in your spirits?
Once EC is in the final product, there is little aside from blending with a lower concentration spirit that can be done to reduce levels. Selecting raw materials to ensure there is a minimal amount of EC precursors from the start is one method of mitigating the issue but may not be a viable option to some distillers due to a lack of availability or production limitations. To ensure the safe production of spirits, it’s crucial to manage the formation of EC early in the distillation process. EC precursors can easily come over with the spirit due to the volatility of cyanide, while EC itself is relatively non-volatile and remains in the water phase where it exits with the stillage or pot ale. This is why EC formed by yeast and bacteria in fermentation should not be a concern for spirits producers, as having EC form early during fermentation keeps it from carrying through to the final spirit.
Copper is our most important ally in this process as it acts as a catalyst for the formation of EC. Effective design is crucial, and placement of sacrificial copper in the still is recommended when copper contact is restricted. To promote EC removal, distillation processes should use copper early in the vapor path. Copper trays can be used throughout the rectifier and stripper of column stills, and sacrificial copper should be used in stainless stills including pot and hybrid style. Double distillation can significantly reduce EC levels by removing a substantial portion of EC precursors in the first distillation and further purifying the spirit in the second. This can potentially reduce the EC content in the final spirit by up to 97% with the increased copper
contact. Additionally, optimizing distillation conditions, such as temperature control and increased reflux ratio, can also help minimize EC in the final product by enhancing the separation of volatile compounds, increasing copper contact time, and reducing bumping and flooding that can allow EC and precursors to flow through into the final spirit.
Most importantly, copper present in the distillation apparatus needs to be in good reactive condition. Copper surfaces must be intact and free from fouling. While they should not be fouled with solids, copper salts and patina promote reactions more effectively than clean copper metal, so excessive cleaning should be avoided. Copper can be “air rested” between runs to promote this oxidation and copper reactivity, but care should be taken as these reactions will inevitably corrode the copper. Since both sulfur compounds and EC precursors are highly reactive with these copper surfaces and salts, sulfur can serve as a type of “canary in a coal mine” for EC, as the presence of sulfur compounds in sensory are a potential indicator that there is insufficient copper interaction occurring to mitigate EC precursors making it to the final spirit.
Understanding and mitigating the risks associated with ethyl carbamate in spirits is crucial for ensuring consumer safety and regulatory compliance. Distillers, it’s time to take proactive steps in managing ethyl carbamate levels in your products. Regularly test for EC and its precursors, liaise with growers and plant breeders, invest in the best distillation practices, and stay informed about the latest research and regulatory updates. By doing so, you not only comply with safety standards but also build trust with your consumers, demonstrating your commitment to their well-being. Let’s raise the bar for safety and quality in the spirits industry together .■
Rox Tiburolobo is an awardwinning brewer and distiller who has spent over a decade in the alcohol production industry. In their current role as a technical sales manager for the Lallemand Biofuels and Distilled spirits team, they provide technical expertise for craft distilleries across the West Coast of the United States.
ARE YOU PREPARED?
Violation hearings and other government meetings
BY TERI QUIMBY
Producing a craft spirit demands meticulous attention to every detail, from ingredient selection to packaging. Nothing is left to chance. This same level of diligence is essential when interacting with regulatory agencies, whether facing a violation hearing or attending a government meeting. Many businesses, however, enter these situations unprepared,
risking confusion and unfavorable outcomes. Proper preparation is vital to protect your business, reputation, and future.
The Power of Communication
Every interaction with regulators—whether spoken or written—presents your business to the outside world. Information shared must
be well-organized, thoroughly documented, and directly relevant to regulatory standards. Think of your presentation as a carefully wrapped gift; both the packaging and the content matter, because they impact the response. Disorganized or unclear information can leave regulators confused, forcing them to make decisions based on incomplete facts.
Clear, concise, and targeted communication ensures your business is accurately and favorably represented. Proactively creating opportunities for government officials to learn about your business can be invaluable.
Why Preparation Matters
Expecting a positive outcome without adequate preparation is unrealistic. The consequences of failing to prepare can be severe, ranging from loss of licenses and costly fines to reputational damage and increased insurance costs. Imagine trying to operate your business without the necessary licenses, or having to divert funds from a capital raise to pay fines instead of investing in growth. For craft distillers, government oversight is everpresent, covering health and safety, building and fire codes, zoning, environmental impact, taxes, licensing, and more. Regulatory interaction is not a matter of “if,” but “when.” Being prepared allows your business to navigate this landscape confidently and avoid costly pitfalls. The key is to act before problems develop, not after.
Understanding the Regulator’s Perspective
Regulators may lack familiarity with industryspecific terminology or the unique aspects of your business. To avoid misunderstandings, always use clear, common language. Building relationships with relevant agencies before issues arise and proactively educating regulators about your operations can prevent problems down the line. When presenting information, ensure it is well-organized, thoroughly documented, and consistent with past communications. This approach helps regulators make informed decisions and reduces the risk of negative outcomes.
Consider how a regulator perceives your business. If their first interaction is at a violation hearing, they may assume what they see reflects your usual practices. It is your responsibility to tell your business story; otherwise, others may tell it for you. Sharing your story, challenges, and commitment to compliance— while building relationships—can be critical to your success.
Not all government meetings are about violations. Sometimes, meetings are proactive, such as seeking guidance on whether a business activity is permitted. Statutes and regulations often have gray areas. Providing context—why your request matters to your business and industry, and how other jurisdictions address it—can be persuasive. Reviewing relevant laws or regulations ahead
of time strengthens your position and helps you ask focused, informed questions rather than open-ended ones that invite unpredictable answers.
Regardless of the meeting’s purpose, every interaction with government officials requires careful planning and clear communication.
Distinguishing Violation Hearings from Other Government Meetings
It’s important to recognize the key differences between violation hearings and other government meetings:
Violation hearings are reactive, occurring after a problem or complaint arises. The position is that of defense, trying to protect your business by presenting evidence and demonstrating compliance in hopes of mitigating penalties. Other government meetings are proactive, aimed at building relationships, seeking guidance or clarification before regulatory issues develop. The position is that of offense, educating regulators or asking questions to help prevent problems.
Both types of meetings require organized documentation and clear communication, but the goals, timing, and preparation strategies differ. Being explicit about these differences in your approach will help you prepare more effectively for each type.
Building the Administrative Record
In violation hearings, everything you say or submit becomes part of the administrative record, forming the basis for decisions or appeals. Your documentation must clearly show the actions your business took before a problem occurred, your immediate responses, and any changes implemented to prevent recurrence. It’s not enough to claim compliance; you must prove it with thorough records and tangible evidence. While these hearings are administrative—not judicial—the importance of evidence is just as critical. Lack of documentation can speak volumes to a regulator.
Common Violations and Preparation Strategies
OSHA Violations: Craft distilleries face numerous hazards, making OSHA violations common. Implement and communicate safety protocols, and document training sessions, equipment inspections, incident reports, and responses. Demonstrating a proactive safety program can help mitigate charges and penalties. For example, personal protective equipment (PPE) should be carefully selected and properly fitted for each user, with documentation showing enforcement, storage, periodic
Every interaction with regulators— whether spoken or written—presents your business to the outside world. Information shared must be well-organized, thoroughly documented, and directly relevant to regulatory standards.
testing, user training, risk assessments, and compliance with industry standards.
Environmental Violations: Improper waste disposal, chemical spills, unauthorized water use, or emissions can have serious consequences. Maintain records of periodic testing, permit compliance, and employee training to demonstrate responsibility and early problem detection.
Tax and Recordkeeping Violations:
Inaccurate excise filings, missing production records, or late payments are common issues. Keep organized, detailed records of production, inventory, and sales, and conduct routine internal audits to identify gaps and ensure preparedness.
Building and Fire Code Violations:
Unpermitted modifications or expansions can trigger regulatory scrutiny. Document regular inspections, fire suppression system testing, and maintenance. Even minor changes—such as adding a fence, patio, or parking—can have regulatory implications. And being an alcohol licensee, any change to the licensed area of record can trigger interest from that agency as well. Consistent documentation demonstrates your commitment to safety and compliance.
Proactive Systems and Voluntary Compliance
Whether using paper or electronic systems, organization is essential. Go beyond
Craft distilleries face numerous hazards, making OSHA violations common. Implement and communicate safety protocols, and document training sessions, equipment inspections, incident reports, and responses.
“check-the-box” lists to create meaningful records. Well-designed systems don’t have to be expensive and may even save money by improving efficiency and streamlining processes. Voluntary systems are preferable to those imposed by government mandates.
It’s Inevitable
Regulatory interactions are inevitable for craft distilleries. Focusing on organized communication, detailed documentation, and proactive compliance significantly improves your ability to advocate for your business in both violation hearings and government meetings. By
preparing for common violations and exceeding minimum expectations, you protect your business and its reputation.
Investing in documentation systems is a wise effort, as you may be called upon to explain any gaps or omissions. Demonstrating your commitment to compliance and preparedness, while building trusted relationships with regulators, positions your business for long-term success. Remember, the government’s trust in your business is implicit in the issuance of a license, and that trust carries significant responsibility from the very start. ■
Quimby is a former state alcohol regulator. Her work on legal and compliance issues is published regularly. Disclaimer: This column is for education purposes only. It should not be construed as specific legal advice or establishment of any attorney-client relationship.
Teri
Quench your thirst for knowledge in ACSA’s Craft Spirits Classroom. For more information or to register, visit our website at americancraftspirits.org/education/webinars.
BOTTLES IN THE BOROUGH
Bar Convent Brooklyn returned for its seventh edition, showcasing the trends that are driving the on-premise in 2025. From off-the-beaten path liqueurs—like the mushroom-centric Veda and the chicha-morada-influenced, purple-cornfocused Miraflores—to new innovations in gin, whiskey, rum, shochu and agave spirits, the industry pulled out all the stops to attract the attention of the bar world’s key decision-makers. And, as has become tradition, some big-name celebrities—including Ja Rule, pictured on the bottom left of this page—made cameo appearances to promote partner brands. Education sessions also pulled no punches in addressing the current challenging market environment.
An internship experience that is a STEP above the rest.
Partnering with member distilleries and wholesalers throughout the United States, we provide a comprehensive training program and provide job exposure for those of different races, color, national origins, genders, and sexual orientations.
