Household & Personal Care News Sept 2016

Household & Personal Care No. 4 • September 2016

Contents Beauty breakthroughs set to revolutionise skin care........1 Future Cosmetics a day of inspiration.................2 Conditioners: alternatives to BTAC & CTAC . ....................3 Vegetan GoldTM - the new generation of DHA..................4 NINOL® CAA maximises performances and minimises components ..........5 Rice ingredients for personal care...........................6 Looking back on in-cosmetics 2016....................7 The Alsiano Household & Personal care team . ...............8

Alsiano

Beauty breakthroughs set to revolutionise skin care Two exciting new products created by Givaudan Active Beauty promise a return to beautiful ‘baby skin’ and to reverse the effects of stress in a revolutionary new way Back to ‘baby skin’ with Tightenyl™ The skin extracellular matrix (ECM) is crucial in the dermis and physically supports the dermis-epidermis junction. In baby skin, the extracellular matrix is perfectly organised, dense, compact and filled with macromolecules. But as we age the skin’s peachy perfection seems impossible to regain.

Tightenyl™, a new product from Givaudan Active Beauty, boasts about anti-ageing properties that deliver remarkable effects within eight days. According to Romain Reynaud, Givaudan’s Research & Development Director, Tightenyl™ is set to become the new skin care gold standard:

Publisher: Alsiano A/S Circulation: 450 copies Editor-in-chief: Lene Aarøe Nissen Coordinator, text, lay-out: Dorthe Andersson Household & Personal Care News is published twice a year and distributed to customers and other interested parties.

Reproduction of articles appearing in Household & Personal Care News requires prior consent of the author. Alsiano is not responsible for the content of articles written by external authors.

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“This product reorganises the skin architecture from the inside out. We can see visible effects in two weeks, and after three months, users still see a change, because the skin is being ‘reorganised’ from within. The product contains a powerful combination of three active ingredients that work deeply and make quick, drastic improvements. The product penetrates far beyond the superficial layer, acting as a ‘bio-lifter’, working to smooth and lift skin from the inside out. The results prove it will be twice as good as the current market favourite, Retinol, and become a new game-changer.” (continues on page 2 >>)

Household & Personal Care News Food News >> Tightenyl™ has been developed as

part of the company’s strong expertise in biotechnology where Givaudan customers can add it to their own formulations, such as a day or night cream for anti-ageing or a serum for skin tightening. It is also appropriate for use in both high-end and mass-market applications. There is deep, innovative science behind this new formulation, but as Romain remarks, the end customer simply wants to know whether it works – which it does.

No. September 2004 2016 No. 1 4• • February skin, accelerating ‘wear and tear’ such as circles under the eyes, a fatigued appearance or fine lines. This breakthrough development from Givaudan triggers different actions in our physiological makeup to combat our stress hormones.

Romain, Givaudan’s R&D Director explains how it works: “Being stressed is actually bad for your skin; there are many products for anti-ageing, but none that target stress, despite the fact that this is a key ageing culprit.

He explains: “It doesn’t matter whether consumers know what Tightenyl™ is or does – women simply want results. The active ingredients in Tightenyl™ deliver fast, visible results, and that’s what counts.”

Alsiano Alsiano Our new product Neurophroline™ stimulates the ‘feel good’ betaendorphins and combats the main stress-hormone, cortisol.”

He continues: “We can tell whether the product is working by checking that the genes promoting the anti-oxidation are being stimulated.

Anti-oxidation is a process that counteracts the negative effect of stress; this is scientifically important because of the link between feeling stressed and ageing skin. This powerful active ingredient generates results in two weeks, especially on high stress areas where the skin is thinnest, e.g. around the eyes.

Romain also gives insights into how feeling less stressed can make us look younger, and why: “Our skin and our brains share the same embryonic origin, meaning that how we feel inside affects how we look outside. If we are stressed, we look tired and age faster. If the brain thinks we’re happy and balanced, the skin will react positively… essentially we can think ourselves young again!”

Neurophroline™: think yourself younger The revolutionary stress-busting active Neurophroline™ developed by Givaudan can not only combat the signs of environmental aggressors such as pollution and climate, but can also treat the real culprit of ageing: stress. Stress takes its toll on our

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Future Cosmetics - a day of inspiration This spring, Alsiano hosted a successful cosmetics seminar that provided great insight into Givaudan Active Beauty’s vast range of beauty ingredients, a presentation from Stepan of Stepan-Mild® L3, and information from KLK OLEO on the palm oil value chain Together with our suppliers, Stepan, KLK Oleo (Kolb) and Givaudan Active Beauty (formerly Soliance), Alsiano had, earlier this year, the pleasure of inviting the Nordic personal care industry for an inspiring seminar on future cosmetics. The seminar provided the participants with a good opportunity to get an overview of our line of ingredients for cosmetic and personal care products and the latest trends in the market.

Givaudan Active Beauty, designer and producer of innovative cosmetic ingredients, spoke of the hyaluronic acid trends in the cosmetic market and their range within this area, the sun care market and their new VegetanTM range and finally chronocosmetology – how to adapt your skin care products to cells’ biological clocks - a new circadian cosmetic concept. (continues on page 3)

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Alsiano

Conditioners: alternatives to BTAC & CTAC Make hair naturally beautiful with esterquats and emollients In combination with Stepanquat® GA90 or Stepantex® PA 85-G, the bio-based Stepan-Mild® GCC or Stepan-Mild® L3 esters act as conditioning boosters.

Stepan also offers a specific formulation; an anionic free chassis corresponding to a cleansing conditioner formulation. It includes Ammonyx® LO, Stepanquat® GA90, Stepan-Mild® GCC and StepanMild® L3.

In Europe, hair conditioners hold an important place in the hair care products range. Beside specific hair treatments and masks or leave on formulations, the classical conditioner represents more than 50% of the market with a “relative high” frequency of use (several times per week).

BTAC* and CTAC* are the main conditioning agents and ”players” in such formulations but esterquats are the right and appropriate alternative for various reasons including regulatory classification and performances.

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Half-head test done on a formulation containing 2% of quats + cetyl stearyl alcohol and steareth-20 Stepantex® PA 85-G

Esterquats

BTAC & CTAC

Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl-monium

*BTAC: Behetrimonium chloride *CTAC: Cetrimonium chloride

• Paste or liquid form (several solvents are possible)

• Restricted use since August 2014 in rinse-off hair products and leave-on hair and face products

• No use restriction • Pure active substance is not CLP classified • Cost effective conditioning agent

• CLP classifications of pure substance: - Serious health hazard - Corrosive to metals - Hazardous to the environment

BTAC

Rinseability Detangling on wet hair

0.33

Wet combing

1

Dry combing

1

Absence of static Hair feel Shine Manageability Body Wet hair feel

0.67 0

0: No difference - 1: Slight difference (advantage) 2: Very noticeable difference (more performant)

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Stepan, one of the world’s largest surfactant manufacturers, offers a full line of anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants and surfactant blends and specialty esters.

At the seminar, they presented their user-friendly solutions for enriched experiences for hair care products with focus on Stepan-Mild® L3 and green conditioning solutions. KLK OLEO, one of the world’s largest oleochemical producers with a strong base in plantations, offers a wide range of high quality sustainable products from

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natural renewable raw materials.

From the palm tree to high-end products KLK OLEO covers the entire supply chain. At the seminar, KLK Oleo took the participants on a journey through the value chain and the RSPO and Mass Balance issue.

Please feel free to contact us if you missed out on the seminar and would like to know more about the topics presented at the seminar.

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Alsiano

VegetanTM Gold - the new generation of DHA To answer the growing consumer requests for oils-based products with new skin benefits, Soliance presents the very first generation of oil soluble selftanning active ingredient: VegetanTM Gold Increased awareness of the danger to health from sunburnt skin and the cultural desire for a tan have been key growth drivers for self tanning agents. With the key focus on prevention and protection, DiHydroxyAcetone (DHA) provides a safe natural tanning effect to the skin without sun exposure.

At the same time, oil is popular in all beauty categories reflecting health, fun and joy. Oil based products have a sensual and luxurious feel which makes you feel at one with nature.

To answer the growing desire for oil-based products, Givaudan Active Beauty is the first to market oil compatible DHA: VegetanTM Gold.

Besides oil cosmetic products, VegetanTM Gold can also be incorporated in non-oily ones as it is water soluble.

A new process for oil based self tanning formula Due to its microemulsion nature, VegetanTM Gold can be added in a high quantity in the formulation, and it will be the core of the formula. In order to obtain a rich, transparent self tanning oil some formulation steps need to be followed under cold magnetic stirring: 1) Add the amount of Vegetan GoldTM you want to include in the formula.

2) Introduce the hydrophilic actives.

Based on an exclusive micro-emulsion technology, VegetanTM Gold opens the door to the development of new types of self-tanning oils for the cosmetic brands which brings a silky rich tan to the skin.

The bronzing effect of VegetanTM Gold is the biochemical result of the immediate and spontaneous coloration of the epidermis via the formation of brown polymers called melanoidins, resulting in a smooth and natural tanning effect.

The intensity of the self-tanning of VegetanTM Gold reaches its maximum within only 24 hours after its first application. The tan stays optimum for 48 hours, and shades away with the natural exfoliation of the skin.

VegetanTM Gold has been crafted to offer formulators the possibility to easily design distinctive crystal transparent oil formulas. This innovative active ingredient is fully compatible with sun filters and other oil-soluble active ingredients, for a straight forward integration in sun care lines.

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VegetanTM Gold - Oil compatible - UV filter compatible - Transparent 3) Add the lipophilic actives/filters and the perfume.

4) Mix it with vegetable oil <10%.

5) Blend it using a surfactant: Polysorbate 85, PEG7 Glycerol cocate, Laureth-4, Polysorbate 81.

6) Incorporate alternately esters and surfactant until you reach transparency.

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NINOL® CAA maximises performances and minimises components New naturally derived aesthetics enhancer and fragrance solubiliser from Stepan for hair care NINOL® CAA (INCI: Dimethyl Lauramide/Myristamide) is a novel, DEAfree, 100% actives and naturally derived nonionic surfactant. It is a key for hygiene formulations optimisation thanks to it multiple benefits.

The Hansen sphere of the product overlaps the alcohols, esters, glycol esters and part of the hydrocarbon groups.

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• No nitrosamines

NINOL® CAA enables the solubilisation of fragrances usually considered to be difficult to incorporate.

At reduced use level, this nonionic surfactant provides superior viscosity building performance and equivalent foam stabilisation compared to traditional amides and betaines.

• EO-free solubilisation • Easy thickening /less salt needed • Improved foaming power

Regarding tolerance, it shows superior skin compatibility and reduces the skin denaturation induced by anionics. Consequently, NINOL® CAA is a replacement for many ingredients, leading the way to a simplified chassis on the performance and aesthetics of the formulation.

• Reduced actives • Cost optimisation • Enhanced mildness • High fragrance levels possible

This lipophilic ingredient is only soluble in surfactant systems or oils. 1% of NINOL® CAA requires about 7% of surfactant actives.

NINOL® CAA

Re-thinking formulation with today’s needs

*** ** *

Cocamide DEA

Cocamide MEA

Fragrance solubiliser

***

*

*

Viscosity enhancement

***

**

**

Maintains performance at reduced levels

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100% active liquid

**

Nitrosamine & EO free

**

Preservative free

**

**

Cold-mixable

**

**

Cocamide MIPA Glucamide

CAPB

* **

*

**

Somewhat

Polysorbate PEG 40 20 castor oil

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**

**

**

*

**

**

**

** **

5

Good

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Superior

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Alsiano

Rice ingredients for personal care Rice starch powder, a simple and inexpensive ingredient, can improve the barrier functions of damaged skin and is also well suited in dry shampoo The use of rice as a natural beauty treatment goes back thousands of years. Through the ages, it has been used for relieving inflammation associated with skin diseases and for cleansing and softening of the skin.

By nature, rice starch is characterised by very small granules in the range of 2-8 μm, being much smaller than those of other cereals, tubers and roots, such as corn and potato. The small particle size means a large surface area giving extraordinary adsorption and absorption characteristics.

Rice starch in skin care applications BENEO’s native rice starch REMY DR has been tested for its beneficial effects on impaired skin functions (damaged, irritated skin). In the test, the skin was exposed to a 15 minutes

rice starch bath twice daily (10 g/liter water). The test showed a 20% healing capacity of damaged skin and a soothing effect on itchy skin. Furthermore, it showed improved skin barrier functions measured as the transepidermal water loss (TEWL).*

Rice stach in dry powder shampoo BENEO rice starch REMY DR is also well suited in dry powder shampoo used for prolonging the interval between shampooing.

Dry shampoos were actually developed prior to the modern liquid shampoos and popular when warm running water was not available in all homes. The advantage of the dry shampoo was preservation of the hairstyle and odour control.

Mallow

Today, dry shampoos are used for much the same reason – i.e. convenience. In fact, dry shampoo is a growing market owing to the emphasis on other benefits such as prolonging the life of the hair colour, since permanent and semi-permanent dyes fade with water contact, the desire to protect hair’s natural oils and to avoid chemicals that may damage the hair over time.

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*De Paepe et al., 2002: Effect of Rice Starch as a Bath Additive on the Barrier Function of Healthy but SLS-damaged Skin and Skin for Atopic Patients.

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Looking back on in-cosmetics 2016 The 26th edition of the leading global show for personal care ingredients offered many new ingredients – also from Alsiano’s suppliers With a 13%-increase in visitor numbers, the in-cosmetics 2016 held in Paris from 12-14 April turned out to be the biggest, highest-attended in-cosmetics to date with close to 10,000 unique visitors from more than 100 countries. In addition to 780+ exhibitors, in-cosmetics featured a Formulation lab, a Sensory bar and an Innovation zone with more than 100 newly launched products and formulations, divided into two categories: functional ingredients and active ingredients.

Alsiano’s suppliers were, of course, also present at this leading business event for personal care ingredients.

Here is a brief sum up of what they presented at the show:

KLK OLEO sustainable palm oil derivatives KLK OLEO presented their broad line of sustainable oil derivatives with RSPO certificate ranging from basic fatty acids and glycerine, fatty esters

and fatty alcohols, to sulphonated methyl esters and surfactants. In addition, KLK OLEO manufactures a nutraceutical and cosmeceutical range of vitamin E.

Givaudan Active Beauty In 2014, Givaudan acquired the French cosmetic actives company Soliance and in 2015 the science-based active cosmetic ingredient firm Induchem.

Their ranges of innovative products and technology are now brought under one single brand: Active Beauty.

Among the products showcased at incosmetics were the new NeurophrolineTM for overall stress control, TightenylTM skin matrix bio-lifter (see more on page 1) and VegetanTM Gold – the first oil compatible DHA (see more on page 4).

Stepan – green formulations Formulating green and consumer friendly personal care products is one of the greatest challenges facing ... (continues on page 8 >>)

Gold award to Givaudan Active Beauty Givaudan Active beauty won the gold award for their active Neurophrolline™ in the “Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards at in-cosmetics 2016.

The judges were impressed with Givaudan’s Neurophroline™, an active ingredient, which is the first generation of cosmetic products that is able to block the production of cortisol.

The ingredient is developed from wild indigo seeds and used in Ayurvedic medicine.

Read more about Neurophroline™ on page 2) Givaudan Active Beauty offers products for an expanded range of benefits including anti-ageing, self-tanning, soothing, hydrating, cooling, and more. Their cutting-edge technologies draw on science and nature to create high-performing molecules and functional agents, including customised carrier systems

Burdock

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Alsiano

The Alsiano Household & Personal Care team Detergents - Surfactants - Cleaning

Personal care - Cosmetics

Key accounts

Per Sigsgaard

Lene Aarøe Nissen

Anders Hager

Senior Area Sales Manager M.Sc. Dairy

B. Chem. Eng. Area sales manager

M.Sc. Chem.

Sales Director

E-mail: ps@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0071 Mobile: +45 2612 8222

E-mail: lan@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0025 Mobile: +45 2270 1002

E-mail: ahg@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0026 Mobile: +45 2618 8545

Sales support

Sales support

Key accounts

Charlotte Nommesen

Signe Mørck

Jan Lindahl

Sales assistant

Sales assistant

Business Manager Industry

E-mail: cn@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0008

E-mail: sm@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0042

E-mail: janl@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +46 31 939 031 Mobile: +46 708 866 563

Quality

Sales support

Logistics Charlotte Dahl

Malene Rask Harder

Susse Liff Hansen

Logistics assistant

Sales assistant

Quality manager

E-mail: cd@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0051

E-mail: mrh@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0007

E-mail: slh@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0017

>> today’s formulators. The sulfate-free

trend is one example as well as the quest for responsibly sourced ingredients. Stepan has recently completed RSPO Mass Balance Supply Chain certification at three manufacturing sites in Europe and is proud to offer customers several options for responsibly sourced, mass-balance certified sustainable palm oil products.

At in-cosmetics, Stepan could also present NINOL® CAA, their new naturally derived aesthetics enhancer and fragrance solubiliser (read more on page 5).

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