Alpkit Outpost - Issue 08

described by the guidebook as taking two days, with several suggested bivouac sites. Even with the first lift we wouldn’t be walking until 9am, a very late start by alpine standards, all but guaranteeing a dark descent. Starting at the col at 3300m we were immediately treated to mind-blowing views and a feeling of remoteness as we breathed in the thin, cold air. If we wished to retreat at any point there would be no gondola to carry us down – the only way was up and over. We saw only one other climbing party on the route. They were laden with huge rucksacks, ready for anything, whilst we pushed on with our 20L running packs and measured optimism. The climb involved a long rocky ridge traverse with several imposing towers to circumnavigate. We made fast progress initially but slowed as the route became complicated by the previous day’s snowfall. Icy sections of rock forced us back into crampons. After a few hours, only several hundred metres of steep snow and ice slopes remained as the final hurdle to claim our prize. There were no tracks to follow as we were the first climbers here since the recent snowfall but looking up we could pick out a line that weaved around the looming seracs and

gaping crevasses. Then unexpectedly, dense clouds blew in, shrouding us in mist and suddenly we could see no further than the end of our front points. Disorientated, we continued to ascend following our instincts and memory hoping that the weather would soon relent. After an hour, the mist finally cleared, and we realised we were within minutes of the summit. We topped out after seven hours of climbing, enjoying a few moments of relaxation and joy before we turned to the complex descent and impending darkness. Without any bivouac gear, we had no choice but to hastily descend. The descent was a harrowing affair as we delicately danced our way down the mountain. Each step required precision to avoid displacing the whole steep slope which felt held together by magic. Eventually in fading light, we realised our only option was to abseil blindly into the abyss below, hoping beyond hope that our ropes would reach the bergschrund. Relief, joy and exhaustion hit us all at once as we found ourselves back on the glacier.

The ‘fast and light’ approach has become increasingly popular in mountaineering. Multi-day missions can now be pulled off in hours instead of days. Lighter packs mean we can move faster and more efficiently with less chance of tiring and running into the type of situations where we need all the heavy kit.