Yves Saint Laurent 'Opium' Analysis Essay

Fragrance Analysis - Yves Saint Laurent ‘Opium’ Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent but known by his fashion followers as Yves Saint Laurent claimed he “dressed the contemporary woman” (Yves Saint Laurent: A Biography 1996) that was “confident, worldly and sexually liberated.” The brand has always been linked to the charismatic persona of the owner with his club-going, drug-taking notoriety that fuelled a fashion revolution. After the stepping down of Laurent due to ill health, Texas born designer Tom Ford took over ramping up the sexuality of the brand.

In this essay, I will be discussing the history and semiotics along with deconstructing the Yves Saint Laurent perfume ‘Opium’ based on fashion advertising knowledge and my own opinions. I chose the Opium advert with Emily Blunt as I felt the brand has a history that has been popular within the fashion industry for years. Plus, this perfume has many references that help me decode the art direction and decisions made when promoting this perfume.

“There was unbridled sex and very chic drugs. There was a type of woman then who was clever and beautiful, but with a real audacity and she dressed in Yves Saint Laurent.”

- Christian Lacroix.

(Vogueit.com)

In regard to history, Opium hasnt always been famous for its lavish and sexualised adverts. Opium was first brought to attention when “The opium war” between Great Britain and China began. Britain saw this ‘narcotic drug’ as a way of reducing trade deficit and turning the Indian colony profitable, (The Guardian, Rana Mitter, 2011) This was the beginning of Opium’s negative connotations towards its use. Another reference is the Opium poppy. This flower is known for its mixture of deep colourings and exotic, velvety smell that smothers fields when in bloom. Again, denotes negativity due to its narcotic references, as its used in medicines such as morphene and codine.

.Then in 1977 when the Opium perfume was first modelled by Jerry Hall sprawled out on gold lame cushions; as if in a trance caught the attention of ensuing media, protests by antidrug activists, as well as digging up history with Chinese-American groups—only cemented the company’s image of decadence deluxe. Adding to the negative media coverage, the advert with red head Sophie Dahl in 2000 was the eighth most complained about advert in 50 years. (The Telegraph, Bibby Sowray) With only good intentions, it was used in hope of putting the fashion house back on the map. This advert has since been synonymous with the brand and continues to be the scent of YSL.

Unveiled in 1977, Opium was created by perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac and presented in a novel flacon by the legendary bottle designer Pierre Dinand.

The juice opens with notes of mandarin orange, bergamot and lily of the valley, has jasmine, carnation and myrrh at its heart, and trails off on a vanilla, patchouli, opopponax and amber base. Its bottle, has been updated a couple of times, but the scent itself is unedited and still redolent of the Seventies.

YSL prolong Opim’s sexual and seductive adverts with the use of famous figure-heads and decadent decor. It is obvious that from the beginning Yves Saint laurent has made the context behind the advert coherent to himself and references to Opium; obsession and addiction.

This Opium shoot was shot by no other than Patrick Demarchelier - famous Vogue photographer. Who has shot the likes of Kate Moss and Charlize Theron in the famous J’adore Dior advert. At first no one expected such a safe photoshoot, Blunt is fully clothed with minmum skin showing to the camera. Completely opposite to the previous YSL campaigns shot by Steven Miesel. Patrick Demarchelier has promoted sex appeal without a half naked model wearing nothing but heels! Emily Blunt remains dignified yet looks effortlessly seductive and lustful, conveying the brands identity flawlessly.

The ‘Opium’ advert sticks to a strong colour theme of reds, oranges, gold and black. Red symbolising energy, strength yet conveying passion and desire. Orange denoting attraction, stimulation along with heat and invigoration. Gold evokes the feel of prestige and high quality and finally, black implying mystery and elegance.

Plus, has negative connotations of death and rebellion yet denotes strength and depth. (The Colour Book, EBook. Google) This colour palette is an obvious compilation of the Opium poppy itself which is also found in the colouring of the bottle. I feel that this perfume signifies power and resilience as both YSL and Opium have had negative press from the beginning. YSL; the drug taking, party goer that sexualised women and the Opium poppy, negative references to narcotics, war and death. Yet, both stand tall in representing passion and strength, YSL standing up for its famous fashion house and revolutionary fashion; plus, the Opium poppy standing for the survivors of war and in remembrance of those that fought..

The styling of Emily Blunt is clever in the fact that she is styled in the same colour palette, making this advert suggest the perfume is intended to portray the addictive qualities of the woman wearing the perfume rather than the obvious narcotic references so many are quick to judge. Blunt is also styled in a reformed edition of the famous YSL Smoking Suit that revolutionised the wardrobes of women in the early 60’s; again (Vogue.it), suggesting that wearing YSL and Opium make a truly irresistable woman.

The story behind the perfume will “unveil a fiery, almost reckless woman with magnetic seduction, that nobody or nothing can resist,” said Renaud de Lesquen, president of YSL (Voguepedia) This was perfectly executed by Emily Blunt. Her body language and facial expressions convey a story of sexual seduction. Her guarded yet tender hold of the Opium bottle pressed against her chest where the smoking suit splits, Her relaxed pose and slight pout makes her look effortlessly seductive while lying on a baroque, crushed velvet bed, expanding YSL’s prestige decadance. The story continues to prove Emily Blunt as the addictive object. Overall, using a well respected actress like Blunt helps promote the perfume in a way that targets a wider audience that wouldn’t appreciate the sexual references of the perfume, minimising bad media coverage and increasing brand awareness, plus a possible re-branding for the perfume.

To conclude, I feel this advert denotes a more positive view on the once hated perfume. Its clever colour palette techniques and styling extend YSL’s decadent image. Emily Blunt stands for the ‘worldly and liberated woman’ Yves Saint Laurent once dressed.

Overall, the production of this advert sticks to the brands DNA by updating its synonomous scent yet projecting the brands image. I feel this perfume will carry on to be known as the scent of the Seventies yet transitions through to present times with its heavily referenced background, therefore, this perfume truly is addictive.

References.

Websites:

-Daily Mail http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/ article-2077639/They-terrible-mistake-EmilyBlunt-claims-wrong-choice-face-YSL.html -Demarchelier, P. Demarchelier. http:// demarchelier.com/advertising. Last accessed 20th March.

-Lupacchini, L. (2010). Yves Saint Laurent Bio. http://www.vogue.it/en/encyclo/designers/s/ yves-saint-laurent. Last accessed 10th March 2014.

-Mitter, R (2011) The Opium War. http://www. theguardian.com/books/2011/sep/02/opiumwar-julia-lovell-review. Last Accessed: 10th March -Vogue. (2008). Yves Saint Laurent. http:// www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Yves_Saint_ Laurent_(Brand). Last accessed 17th March.

Books:

-Arnold, R (1999) Icons of Fashion -Polan, B (1996). The Great Fashion Designers.

Roger Tedre.

-Rawsthorn, A (1996). Yves Saint Laurent: A Biography. London: Harper Collins..

-Wright, A (1998). The Beginners Guide to Colour Psychology.

Magazines:

-Vogue (2013) October.

Illustrations:

-http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_Opium_War -http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/ TMG9299894/YSL-Opium-advert-is-eighth-mostcomplained-about.html -http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Papaver_ somniferum_’Opium_poppy’_(Papaveraceae)_ flower.JPG