Sani PaSS
60 Getaway June 2013
Up the roof of Africa A megatick on the bucket list of pass chasers, Sani Pass’s treacherous switchbacks up the brutal black basaltic bastion of the southern Drakensberg make a 4x4 mandatory. By Marion Whitehead.
T
he nerve-wracking, steep V-
South African border post in fine
hairpins of the upper section of
weather. Once up the first sandstone
Sani Pass, one of the toughest
ridge and into the protea savannah belt,
and highest in Southern Africa, are
a couple of view sites offer vistas of the
notorious. Road conditions vary from
route ahead, snaking skywards.
bad to awful, but this is the challenge
The road meanders past pretty water-
that draws 4x4 enthusiasts to tackle
falls to the border post, nearly 400
the trek to the 2 873-metre summit in
metres higher than the old trading post
eastern Lesotho, an isolated region
12 kilometres back. This isn’t the geo-
where the Drakensberg peaks rise
graphical boundary with Lesotho, but
above the clouds to touch the heavens.
was the last place flat enough to build
The 19-kilometre route winds up
on. The pass climbs 900 metres over
a narrow valley through the scenic
the next eight kilometres to the Lesotho
uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park World
border post at the top. If you don’t have
Heritage Site, rising about 1 200 metres
a 4x4, you can hike or cycle up.
from the foothills, and is the only road
The road becomes rougher as it dips
to connect Lesotho and KwaZulu-Natal.
into the rocky river course in places and
Formerly a bridle path, it was built
the going gets steeper as you climb past
against seemingly impossible odds in
Suicide Bend. The serious 4x4 stuff starts
the 1950s to provide a transport route
at the base of the famous series of tight
into the mountain kingdom and became
switchbacks, stacked one above the
a daredevil tourist attraction.
other in what looks like a mass of bare
The road is now tarred as far as the
rock and gravel. You climb 600 metres
ruins of the old Good Hope Trading
over just three kilometres. Roger Aldous
Post at the foot of the pass and the
of Thaba Tours recommends low range
Department of Environmental Affairs’
in second gear for this section.
ruling on the tarring of the upper
Some of the V-hairpins are so tight
section has sparked much controversy.
that you may have to perform hair-
If you want to do this pass in its present
raising three-point turns to get around
form, now is the time.
them, rolling back to the edge of the precipice, pulling up the handbrake
What you’ll see The old Good Hope Trading Post at the
left: Plans are afoot to tar the Sani Pass, so true 4x4 enthusiasts should not dillydally in their quest to drive this iconic off-road route. The road takes you from the town of Himeville up to the plateau overlooking KwaZulu-Natal.
and then inching forward again. Conditions vary greatly, according to
mouth of the Mkhomazana River Valley,
the weather. Some corners never get
13,6 kilometres from the turn-off north
sunshine in winter and ice over very
of Himeville, signals the beginning of the
readily. Waterfall or Ice Corner is spec-
uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park and the
tacular when it freezes, large icicles
gravel pass. A sign warning non-4x4
forming around each blade of grass.
vehicles not to venture further comes
Topping out at the Lesotho Border
just before the first hairpin, but a high-
Post at 2 873 metres (although the sign
clearance vehicle will get you to the
says 2 865 metres), resist the temptation
www.getaway.co.za 61
Sani PaSS
Plan your trip recommended route From the N3 south of Howick, take the R617 to Bulwer and Underberg, then drive to Himeville and follow the signs to Sani Pass. NB: Pack your passport. The SA border post hours are 06h00 to 18h00. The toll fee at the Lesotho border post costs from R30 for a double cab. Allow at least two hours travel time each way.
do this Guided tour. Let an experienced guide do the driving while you focus on the Sani Pass scenery. Costs from R580 a person. Thaba Tours, tel 033-701-2888, cell 083353-5958, www.thabatours.co.za.
to skip the formalities just because the fence is almost non-existent. Get your passport stamped at the small outpost with the ragged flag or you’ll find yourself under arrest. From the little village on the Sani plateau, it’s 53 kilometres to Mokhotlong, over the roof of Africa on the Black Mountain Pass (3 200 metres). Note: When driving down the pass, engage the same gear you used coming up and give way to oncoming traffic.
BuiLdinG the Pass Originally a mule track used by traders and missionaries, Sani Pass was rebuilt in a Lesotho government public works programme during a bad drought in the early 1930s. Thousands of interlocking stones of all sizes and shapes were built up by hand to form narrow platforms in a series of eight zigzags on the upper section and were wide enough for two pack horses to pass each other. David Alexander started a motorised transport system, Mokhotlong Mountain Transport, up the pass in 1955 and this
What We drove Early Land Rovers were the backbone of Mokhotlong Mountain Transport, the company which helped pioneer a route for vehicles over Sani Pass. This modern Defender 110 2,2-litre version made short work of treacherous conditions on Ice Corner, where other 4x4s were stuck with their wheels spinning on the slippery surface. Tough as ever, it’s a great vehicle for adventurers. From R441 000. www.landrover.co.za.
mountain BiKinG. Pedal up Sani Pass for a strenuous, technical, 42-kilometre return ride. Alternatively, take the shorter, non-technical but very scenic 28-kilometre ride to the SA border post and back. hiKinG. The half-day hike to Hodgson’s Peaks takes you across the Sani Plateau to breathtaking views at the edge of the escarpment. Book a guide for R250 a group at Sani Mountain Lodge, tel 073541-8620. The five-day, 59-kilometre Giant’s Cup Trail from the lower reaches of Sani Pass to Garden Castle Nature Reserve is the best known in the area. From R80 a person a night. Tel 033-8451000, email bookings@kznwildlife.com, www.kznwildlife.com. PonY treKKinG. Ride from Sani Mountain Lodge with a local guide for R120 an hour, which includes hire of the horse, or go on a multi-day trek with Drakensberg Adventures from R1 875 a person for two days, all inclusive. Tel 033-702-0330, cell 083-566-1997, email info@drakensbergadventures.co.za, www.drakensbergadventures.co.za.
galvanised the authorities to widen the bridle path in 1957 to make it more suitable for small 4x4s. The current route is the result of improvements between 1974 and 1976, when some sections were realigned.
FLY FishinG. Get permits to fish in the crystal-clear mountain streams and lakes of uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park from offices at Cobham and Vergelegen for R50 a rod a day. The Underberg/Himeville www.getaway.co.za 63
BIRDING. The most sought-after species are the Drakensberg siskin, mountain pipit and the bearded vulture.
to Mokhotlong
0
LeSotho
Thabana Ntlenyana
Black Mountain Pass Seqoqo
Sani Pass
GOLF. Play a round of 18 holes beside the Ngxalingenwa River at Sani Pass Hotel. Costs R95. Tel 033-702-1320. HISTORY. Himeville Fort, now a fascinating country museum, has a room devoted to local rock art. Entrance by donation. Tel 033-702-1184.
Sani Mountain Vergelegen Lodge Nature Reserve Sani Pass Cobham Hotel Nature Reserve Sani Lodge Backpackers
Mzimkhulu
EAT HERE ORGANIC MEALS. Giant’s Cup Café and Crafts at the foot of Sani Pass serves delicious, wholesome meals made from local organic produce and dreamy, smooth ice cream. Tel 033-702-0330. BUFFET SPREADS. Mountain View Restaurant at Sani Pass Hotel lays out big buffet spreads to satisfy the hungry. Stay for tea on the terrace or in the lounge beside a roaring hearth. Tel 033-702-1320. PUB FAVOURITES. Sani Mountain Lodge at the top of the pass claims to be the highest pub in Africa (2 874 metres). Hot chocolate and glühwein are favourites and the local trout is delicately flavoured. The view from its deck is one of the finest in the Berg. Tel 073-541-8620. FINE DINING. Moorcroft Manor outside Himeville offers a range of good seasonal dishes, complemented by a well-stocked wine cellar. The eggs Benedict with the chef’s Parmesan scones is a favourite; I enjoyed a smoked salmon salad on the patio with a view of the distant mountains. Tel 033-702-1967.
STAY HERE VIBEY BACKPACKERS. Sani Lodge Backpackers is a chilled spot near the foot of the pass with clean ablutions for campers (R70 a person), those staying in dorms (R120 a head) and private rooms 64 Getaway June 2013
15km
Nzinga Mkomazi
Mkhomazana
Himeville
Underberg Bushman’s Nek
10
Loteni Nature Reserve
uKhahlambaDrakensberg Park
Pholela Garden Castle Nature Reserve
5
South AfricA
R617
Bulwer
to Howick
Trout Fishing Club controls access to some of the best waters in the Southern Berg. Daily rod fee for visitors is R120. Tel 082-636-3985, www.uhtfc.co.za.
to Nottingham Road
Sani PaSS
R617 R612
to Kokstad
to Donnybrook
(R350 for two adults). En-suite rondavels cost R440 (sleep two adults) and selfcatering cottages are from R250 an adult sharing, with children half price. Cook in the communal kitchen while you make new friends. Short hikes to mountain pools and guided walks to rock art sites are available. Tel 033-702-0330, info@sanilodge.co.za, www.sanilodge.co.za. Sani Pass Hotel and Leisure Resort
FAMILY RESORT. Sani Pass Hotel and Leisure Resort at the foot of the pass has had a facelift and is once again the grand dame of its heydays, with revamped bedrooms, restaurant, sports bar and a wellness centre. Activities include golf, lawn bowls, swimming in a large pool, quadbiking, fly fishing and walks. DB&B from R990 to R1 090 a person a night sharing, kids half price when sharing with parents. Tel 033-702-1320, email reservations@sanipasshotel.co.za, www.sanipasshotel.co.za. EAGLE EYRIE. Sani Mountain Lodge, previously Sani Top Chalet, perches at the top of the pass just over the Lesotho border. Activities include hiking, birding and horse riding along the escarpment, fly fishing in summer and skiing and snowboarding in winter. The en-suite rondavels near the main building have been upgraded by the new owners, with new furnishings, plumbing and fireplaces. DB&B is R885 a person a night. Tel 078-
634-7496, email res@sanimountain.co.za, www.sanimountainlodge.co.za.
CAMPING. Overnight in a cave at Cobham Nature Reserve in uKhahlambaDrakensberg Park outside Himeville (R45 a person a night, hike in), or park off at base camp where there’s a basic ablution block (R60 a person a night). Tel 033-702-0831. For more places to stay in the region, turn to the Lesotho section of the Getaway Guide on page 125 or go to accommodation.getaway.co.za
USEFUL RESOURCES Southern Drakensberg Tourist and Accommodation Centre in Underberg. Tel 033701-1471, email info@drakensberg.org, www.drakensberg.org. See Gibb Consultants’ report for more on the controversy surrounding the tarring of Sani Pass at http://projects.gibb.co.za.