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ORAC TOTAL (umole TE/g)
700
Aesthetics Journal
Aesthetics aestheticsjournal.com
683.43
Testing independently performed by Brunswick Labs
600 500
Product containing Copper tripeptide-1 growth factor
400
Product containing C, E and Ferulic
300
Product containing CoffeeBerry
200
Cosmeceutical containing 10% vitamin C
206 157
Product containing 1% ldebenone
100 53 14
0
Figure 4: ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorption Capacity) measures total lipophilic antioxidant capacity. Testing independently performed by Brunswick Labs. Image provided courtesy of INNOVATIVE SKINCARE.
are not used up while combating free radical processes and persist in the body for long periods of time, unlike other non-enzymatic antioxidants, such as vitamin C.28 A study has shown that copper assists SOD for proper functioning in its antioxidant role.29
firmness and wrinkles.13,15,16 Through the effects of decorin, new collagen made in injured tissue assumes the correct anatomical configuration and structure rather than a disorganised scar.31
Conclusion: All good things in moderation Role in melanin synthesis Melanin is designed to give some protection against photodamage. Copper is necessary for melanin synthesis within melanocytes, which are found scattered along the Dermal-Epidermal Junction (DEJ) in the basal layer of epidermis.1 Equally tyrosinase, the enzymatic partner for copper, is the most crucial enzyme required in melanin synthesis, as its action is the rate-limiting step in melanin production.30 Tissue remodelling Copper tripeptide-1 and other forms of copper are active for tissue remodelling, which is the return of injured tissue to normal architecture and function. It increases keratinocyte proliferation and normal collagen synthesis, improves skin thickness, skin elasticity, REFERENCES 1. de Romaña DL, Olivares M, Uauy R, Araya M. J, Risks and benefits of copper in light of new insights of copper homeostasis, Trace Elem Med Biol. 2011 Jan;25(1):pp3-13 2. Gambling L, Kennedy C, McArdle HJH. Semin, Iron and copper in fetal development. Semin Cell Dev Biol. 2011 Aug;22(6):pp637-44 3. Stipanuk MH & Caudill MA Biochemical, Physiological, and Molecular Aspects of Human Nutrition, eds. Zinc, Copper, and Manganese. Grider A. 2013. Elsevier: USA. p830 4. Günter J, Konrad J. A. Kundig Copper: Its Trade, Manufacture, Use, and Environmental Status, Copper in the Environment, ASM; USA p378 5. Dlewell A, Barnes M, Endres JR, Ahmed M, Ghambeer DK. J, Walkenhorst WF, Sundrud JN, Laviolette JM. Additivity and synergy between an antimicrobial peptide and inhibitors ions Biochim Biophys Acta. 2014 Sep. 1839(9):pp2234-42. Epub 2014 6. Drugs Dermatol. Efficacy and tolerability assessment of a topical formulation containing copper sulfate and hypericum perforatum on patients with herpes skin lesions: a comparative, randomized controlled trial. 2012 Feb. 11(2):pp209-15 7. Peniche AG, Renslo AR, Melby PC, Travi BL, Antileishmanial activity of disulfiram and thiuram disulfide analogs in an ex vivo model system is selectively enhanced by the addition of divalent metal ions. Antimicrob Agents Chemother. 2015 Aug 3. Epub ahead of print 8. Stephens TJ, McCook JP, Herndon JH Jr. J Pilot study of topical copper chlorophyllin complex in subjects with facial acne and large pores, Drugs Dermatol. 2015 Jun. 14(6):pp589-92. 9. Diegelmann RF, Medscape, Wounds, Collagen Metabolism 2001;13(5) <http://www.medscape. com/viewarticle/423231> 10. HACIŞEVKĐ, A. An Overview of Ascorbic Acid Biochemistry, Ankara Ecz. Fak. Derg., 38 (3) 233 255, 2009 <http://dergiler.ankara.edu.tr/dergiler/24/1716/18327.pdf> 11. iS Clinical, Super Serum Advance, n.d, <https://www.isclinical.co.uk/super-serum-results> 12. Maquart FX, Pickart L, Laurent M, Gillery P, Monboisse JC, Borel JP, Stimulation of collagen synthesis in fibroblast cultures by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2+. FEBS Lett. 1988 Oct 10. 238(2):pp343-6. 13. Kinsella MG, Bressler SL, Wight TN. The regulated synthesis of versican, decorin, and biglycan: extracellular matrix proteoglycans that influence cellular phenotype. Crit Rev Eukaryot Gene Expr. 2004. 14(3):pp203-34. 14. Simeon A, Monier F, Emonard H, Gillery P, Birembaut P, Hornebeck W, Maquart FX, Expression and activation of matrix metalloproteinases in wounds: modulation by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2+. J Invest Dermatol. 1999 Jun. 112(6):pp957-64. 15. Simeon A, Emonard H, Hornebeck W, Maquart FX, The tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-Lhistidyl-L-lysine-Cu2+ stimulates matrix metalloproteinase-2 expression by fiboblast cyultures. Life Sci. 2000 Sep 22. 67(18):pp2257-65. 16. Pickart L, Published studies on tissue and skin remodeling copper-peptides: copper peptide studies on skin renewal, wound healing, and hair growth. Skinbiology.com (2014). <http:// skinbiology.com/copperpeptideregeneration.html> 17. Pickart L, The human tri-peptide GHK and tissue remodeling. J BiomaterSciPolym Ed. 2008.
Although copper is required for human life and for many biologic processes, too much of a good thing is not positive. Ingesting large amounts of copper as a supplement can be harmful and even toxic.32 Both copper and iron have the potential to act as pro-oxidants and increase free radical damage if found in excess.10 However, providing copper in correct amounts can certainly assist many aspects of skin functionality, improve skin health, and maintain youthful vitality of skin appearance. Dr Charlene DeHaven is a board-certified physician in both Internal Medicine and Emergency Medicine, with an emphasis on age management and health maintenance. She currently serves on the lecture faculty for the University of Washington Department of Family Medicine.
19(8):pp969-88. 18. Choi HR, Kang YA, Ryoo SJ, Shin JW, Na JI, Huh CH, Park KC, Stem cell recovering effect of copper-free GHK in skin, J Pept Sci. 2012 Nov. 18(11):pp685-90. 19. Leyden J, Stephens T, Finkey MB, Appa Y, Barkovic S, Skin care benefits of copper peptide containing facial cream. Amer Academy Dermat Meeting. 2002 Feb. Abstract pp68-69. 20. Pickart L. Klatz R, Goldman R (eds.) The human tripeptide GHK (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine), the copper switch and the treatment of the degenerative conditions of aging. Anti-Aging Therapeutics Vol XI. American Academy of Medicine:Chicago IL. 2009. pp301-3012. 21. Miller TR, Wagner JD, Baack BR, Eisbach KJ, Effects of topical copper tripeptide complex on CO2 laser-resurfaced skin. Arch Facial Plast Surg. 2006 Jul-Aug. 8(4):pp252-9. 22. Miller TR, Wagner JD, Baack BR, Eisbach KJ, Effects of topical copper tripeptide complex on CO2 laser-resurfaced skin. Arch Facial Plast Surg. 2006 Jul-Aug. 8(4):pp252-9. 23. Miller DM, DeSilva D, Pickart L, Aust SD, Effects of glycyl-histidyl-lysyl chelated Cu(II) on ferritin dependent lipid peroxidation. Adv Exp Med Biol. 1990. 264:pp79-84. 24. Matalka LE, Ford A, Unlap MT, The tripeptide, GHK, induces programmed cell death in SH-SY5Y neuroblastoma cells. J Biotechnol Biomater. 2012. 2:p144. 25. Hong Y, Downey T, Eu KW, Koh PK, Cheah PY, A ‘metastasis-prone’ signature for early-stage mismatch-repair proficient sporadic colorectal cancer patients and its implications for possible therapeutics. Clin Exp Metastasis. 2010 Feb 9. 26. Miratschijski U, Martin A, Jorgensen LN, Sampson B, Agren MS, Zinc, copper, and selenium tissue levels and their relation to subcutaneous abscess, minor surgery, and wound healing in humans. Biol Trace Elem Res. 2013 Jun. 153(1-3):pp76-83. Epub 2013 Apr 18. 27. Frangoulis M, Georgiou P, Chrisostomidis C, Perrea D, Dontas I, Kavantzas N, Kostakis A, Papadopoulos O, Rat epigastric flap survival and VEGF expression after local copper application. Plast Reconstr Surg. 2007 Mar. 119(3):pp837-43. 28. Fukai, T. Ushino-Fukai, M. Antioxidants & Redox signaling, Superoxide Dismutases: Role in Redox Signalling, Vascular Function, and Diseases, 2011 Sep 15; 15(6): 1583–1606 <http://www.ncbi.nlm. nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3151424/> 29. Abreu IA, Cabelli DE, Superoxide dismutases – a review of the metal-associated mechanistic variations. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2010 Feb. 1804(2):pp263-74. 30. Casanola-Martin GM, Le-Thi-Thu H, Marrero-Ponce Y, Castillo-Garit JA, Torrens F, Rescigno A, Abad C, Khan MT, Tyrosinase enzyme: 1. An overview on a pharmacologic target. Curr Top Med Chem. 2014. 14(12):pp1494-501. 31. Kinsella MG, Bressler SL, Wight TN. The regulated synthesis of versican, decorin, and biglycan: extracellular matrix proteoglycans that influence cellular phenotype. Crit Rev Eukaryot Gene Expr. 2004. 14(3):203-34 32. Araya, M; McGoldrick, MC; Klevay, L M.; Strain, J.J.; Robson, P; Nielsen, Forrest; O, Manuel; Pizarro, F; Johnson, L; Poirier, K A. (2001). Determination of an Acute No-Observed-AdverseEffect Level (NOAEL) for Copper in Water. Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology 34 (2): 137–45. doi:10.1006/rtph.2001.1492. PMID 11603956.
Reproduced from Aesthetics | Volume 3/Issue 1 - December 2015