A City Made By People Journal Issue 2

A journal on city life & culture Seattle / Bucharest / Madrid / Bristol / Amsterdam

ISSUE 2

ACITYMADEBYPEOPLE.COM

Waqar Ahmad

Citinerary | A City Made By People | Issue 2 ISSN 2468-4732 Published in Amsterdam, July 2017 Founder & Publisher Robin Cox Design

Claudia de Haas

Art Direction

Kevin Rijnders

Editor

Suzanna Knight

Cover photography

Kevin Rijnders

Cover location

A’DAM Toren Overhoeksplein 1 1031 KS Amsterdam

City captains

Julie Bourne (Seattle) Alexa Sferle (Bucharest) Marta Aguilar (Madrid) Morgane Bigault (Bristol) Mio van der Mei (Amsterdam)

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Richard Rigby

WELCOME

Citizens as the lens through which to understand city culture Yes, we know, it took us almost a year to publish our

there, inspire others to join and to co-celebrate the

second issue of the A City Made By People journal.

cities we live in.

But what a year it’s been! We’ve received so much enthusiasm about our first issue. From selling out

A City Made By People is not here to tell you how things

in bookstores around the world, press features and

are done. Our correspondents and the citizens they

hundreds of Instagram mentions, to a stream of new

meet, and the interactions they have together are the

city enthusiasts joining our network of cities.

true insights on how a city works and evolves over time.

And as of today, we are proud to say we have teams of

And we’re super proud of them! In this last paragraph,

correspondents in 15 different cities:

I’d like to thank everyone from the network taking

Amsterdam, Berlin, Bucharest, Bristol, Chicago, Lis­

part in this endeavor. For issue 2, thank you Seattle,

bon, Los Angeles, Madrid, Melbourne, Minneapolis,

Bucharest, Madrid, Bristol and Amsterdam for all your

Odessa, Oslo, Rotterdam, Seattle, Tokyo, and a lot

hard work over the last months.

more joining soon.

Special thanks to city captains Julie, Alexa, Marta, In all honesty, what drives us isn’t the running of a

Morgane and Mio for putting up with me in this process

weekly online magazine, hosting monthly speaker

of crafting a print journal. And my partners in crime:

events, publishing a bi-annual print journal and who

photographer Kevin for art-directing, designer Claudia

knows what else we might come up with in the near

for putting everything together and editor Suzanna for

future. Sure, it’s great to see them all evolve in their

all the back-and-forth reading and editing.

own way, and we love the process of taking an idea and making it become reality.

We can’t wait to get this issue out there and have you explore the various cities that are part of our thriving

But what excites us the most are the people we work

network.

with and meet. Their talent, enthusiasm, drive, knowhow, commitment, opinions, and most of all, all the

#acitymadebypeople

things we have in common and share. A likeminded purpose and collective intention on how we want to

Best

portray our city and the citizens who shape it.

Robin Cox City Enthusiast Officer (CEO)

Our city captains and correspondents are city enthusi­ asts to the core. They take this idea of ‘exploring city life and culture’ and make it their own. They get out

Let’s celebrate the people who keep our city clean

@berlin_madebypeople by Juliane

#acitymadebypeople

@seattle_madebypeople by Julie

@tokyo_madebypeople by Mana

@melbourne_madebypeople by Netta

@rotterdam_madebypeople by Wouter

@amsterdam_madebypeople by Robin

@madrid_madebypeople by Marta

@minneapolis_madebypeople by Waqar

@chicago_madebypeople by Touly

@vancouver_madebypeople by Melissa

Our correspondents

JULIE BOURNE

LINDSEY POTTER

WELCOME

Seattle We say it rains here all the time, but that’s only to keep everyone away so we can have this beautiful place all to ourselves. Mountains were moved to build this city, where men and women like their coffee pitch black and their music underground. Welcome to the city of the fiercely proud and relentlessly unique.

A sense of community in the middle of a loud and busy city: Step inside Seattle’s Public Library Downtown Seattle’s hidden gem: Pioneer Square Sounds of Seattle

CONTENTS

ARCHITECTURE

A sense of community in the middle of a loud and busy city: Step inside Seattle’s Public Library Join us on a visit to Seattle’s public library, where literature and architecture come together in one stunning place.

Words by JULIE BOURNE

SEATTLE

Thomas Hawk

Thomas Hawk

ARCHITECTURE

I’ll admit it: I don’t really spend much time in libraries.

Primarily made of concrete, steel, and glass, the

In fact, prior to my recent first visit to the Seattle Public

iconic diagonal grid system of the building is made

Library, I couldn’t think of my last library experience

to withstand forces like wind or earthquakes (I know

since I was a teenager, borrowing DVDs and books

where I’m going when “The Big One” hits…). It looks

about vampires.

crazy and unplanned yet stunning and genius at the same time. The top floor reading room is ethereal;

In my memory, libraries are stuffy, smelling of dust and

light, airy, and exactly the kind of place I’d love to

always slightly too warm with unpleasant lighting and

spend a relaxed Saturday afternoon. On the other end

even more unpleasant librarians. It’s 2017. Our lives

of things, there’s a section of recording studios and

move fast and if we can’t get to something on our phones

classrooms that feel straight out of a sci-fi or horror

right away, we lose interest. This is probably where my

film. On a particularly quiet Saturday, I found myself

lack of library visits lies; there’s always a podcast to be

peering around latex-like red walls wondering if I was

listening to, a new Instagrammable restaurant to try

actually alone.

out, or a TV show to binge-watch on Netflix.

A future-proof library It’s as if architects Rem Koolhaas (of the Netherlands) and Joshua Ramus (a native Seattleite) understood that this would be the common affliction of 2017 Seattle dwellers, even back in 2004 when the library was re-opened to the public. The building begs for attention, not with desperation, but with the coolness of a new piece of technology. It’s not exclusively dedicated to the books, but instead has adapted to the multimedia flexibility that today’s visitors expect, delivering a dose

“On a particularly quiet Saturday, I found myself peering around latex-like red walls wondering if I was actually alone.”

of surrealism and Apple store-esque airiness.

Redefining what it means to be a Downtown high-rise,

Creating quiet, communal space

the building is time-sensitive, casting intense new light

I’m guilty of perpetuating the stereotype of young

forms depending on where the sun is, and also avoiding

people not going to libraries anymore, in the way

the vast flatness that often comes with libraries. Books

that they used to. But it is just a stereotype: visiting

are sorted based on a spiral formation, a continuous rib-

the Seattle Public Library gave me more of a sense of

bon of the Dewey Decimal System, physically experi-

community than I get in most places. Families, groups

enced as fluid movement from one floor (or, ‘platform’)

of teenagers, people doing business, tourists, and other

to the next. Each platform is designed for maximized

onlookers like myself were all present, enjoying an

function, dedicated to a unique purpose, whether that’s

atmosphere that feels personal and quiet, even smack

a hub for librarians to inform guests, silent halls of indi-

in the middle of a loud, busy city. ¢

viduals with their noses in books, or spaces for work, play, and socializing.

SEATTLE

Sean Munson

Sean Munson

NEIGHBORHOODS

Downtown Seattle’s hidden gem: Pioneer Square In a rapidly growing city, locals yearn for a part of town that still has character.

Words by LINDSEY POTTER Pictures by LYNAE COOK

A friend from the East Coast was making plans for his

Fun fact: it’s not even where Downtown started when

first visit to the Pacific Northwest. As he was planning

Seattle was being built, despite common assumptions

his stops, he asked me if we could do ‘Seattle things’

otherwise.

while he was here, which he listed as: drinking coffee,

In fact, Pioneer Square was the first neighborhood of

wearing ponchos, and catching fish. His playful jab at

Seattle. Dating back to the 1800s, it is now nestled

my city was returned with a sarcastic comeback and

between the Financial District and SoDo. When I

promises of a perfectly curated tour by yours truly.

walk through this neighborhood, I often think of how

Unfortunately, his trip was cancelled in the end and

rapid­ ly this historic area has changed; as if it has

I never got a chance to show him what rad ‘Seattle

been pushing against its old bones to make room for

things’ locals actually do that do not include Pike Place

newcomers, appeasing Seattle’s growth.

Market, or any other cliché landmarks.

When I first moved up to Seattle five years ago, I probably walked through Pioneer Square just a handful

Seattle’s first neighborhood

of times. There would be the occasional art gallery that

Don’t get me wrong, there are many reasons to love

would catch my eye on the edge of the neighborhood,

Pike Place Market. I never get tired of wandering past

but I would never get off my bus route to check it out.

the vendors and their beautiful flowers, the line-worthy

I think it was more to do with the fact that the events

treats at Piroshky Piroshky Bakery, or its uneven paths

I wanted to go to were in popular areas like Capitol

that often lead you to intimate views of the water. That

Hill and the occasion never presented itself for my

being said, it is not necessarily a spot that I’m willing to

younger self to step out of her normal routine. At the

fight through hordes of tourists to get to. Even though

time the only things I knew about Pioneer Square were

it’s iconic, it’s not the only defining landmark of Seattle.

as follows:

“Pioneer Square has a seedy reputation under its belt, which can largely be blamed on its origins as a hub for prostitution, gambling, and all sorts of other ways for drunk sailors to get their kicks.”

SEATTLE

It’s where the famous - and haunting - underground

the rest of the city - what a gem Pioneer Square really

tours of Seattle live, there are a couple of popular

is. While so much of the city’s old streets have been

clubs in the neighborhood (aggressively advertised on

torn down and replaced with new, sleek townhomes,

littered light posts) and that I had been cautioned to

Pioneer Square seems to have new life pumped into its

not wander around that area alone at night. Needless

veins. New and trendy restaurants like London Plane

to say, Pioneer Square has a seedy reputation under its

or Damn the Weather have become very successful

belt, which can largely be blamed on its origins as a hub

in the area, along with countless other little bars and

for prostitution, gambling, and all sorts of other ways

coffee shops, all sprouted behind beautifully historic

for drunk sailors to get their kicks. Sure, that was all the

archways and dark brick walls.

way back in the 1800s, but the deep remnants of grit still remain.

Craving nostalgia The clear shift of popularity to Pioneer Square repre­

“I didn’t know this was here!”

sents a pretty ubiquitous experience in many of the

After about a year of living in the city, I am pretty

neighborhoods in Seattle. We’re experiencing such

sure that my first visit to Pioneer Square was actually

insane population growth across the board that finding

because my friend had tickets to a special underground

space for business and living is becoming a challenge

tour and told me it was kind of a right of passage to

that we have not had before, at least not at this scale.

living here. As we were walking to the meeting spot,

Along with new buildings called by minimalist one-

I kept passing cute little restaurants and stores. I kept

word names and with the same modern aesthetic, locals

muttering, “I didn’t know this was here!” and “do you

are craving nostalgia for a neighborhood that seems to

want to come back to check that spot out?!” All it took

have managed to hold onto its Seattle integrity. In this,

was doing a touristy thing that I would normally hate

Pioneer Square is having its moment, and Seattleites

for me to fall in love with the most local spot in Seattle.

like myself hope it will maintain its artsy-seedy roots

I finally figured out - and along with me what feels like

for as long as possible. ¢

SEATTLE

Caroline Kerr

April Sol

Taylar Elizza Beth

MUSIC

Sounds of Seattle Seattle is home to some major names in music: Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Macklemore, and Sir Mix-a-Lot, just to name a few. However, the influence coming out of Seattle across the global music scene runs much deeper.

To get an understanding of the true Seattle sound, I spoke with five Seattle locals deeply entrenched in music and its relation to their communities and personal lives.

Words by JULIE BOURNE

Matt “Spek” Watson Matt is most known throughout Seattle as Spekulation:

All time most influential Seattle artist in your life?

a Seattle-based emcee and producer whose blend of

There are a few on the hip hop front - Gabriel Teodros

samples and live instrumentals with impactful lyricism

is one of them. He’s been a rapper here for 20 years or

perfectly capture where Seattle has been, where it is

something like that. Hearing his music is a large part of

now, and where it is headed.

why I stayed in Seattle.

Seattle artist you’re currently most excited about?

I’ve organized the Beacon Hill Block Party with Gabriel over the past few years. It started as something more

DoNormaal - she’s super dope. She is a young Seattle

accessible than the Capitol Hill Block Party, which

hip hop artist doing super forward-thinking things in the

is gated and exclusive despite being in the middle of

scene, really defining what hip hop in Seattle will sound

the neighborhood. People live in that neighborhood

like in the future. She’ll be famous - know her name.

and resources are being taken from them. We’ve

Her performance is wonderful and her sound is almost

done everything reactively, doing what Capitol Hill

psychedelic; weedy. She also has a collective around

Block Party isn’t doing - no fences, everything is free,

her, which she brings with her to shows, and she always

everyone is welcome, we pay our people. It’s kind of a

makes sure they get paid. She’s finding ways to protect

poetic metaphor for what’s going on in Seattle.

them in the music they make from the forces that be.

“If the music is diseased, the community is diseased. Nurture it, don’t exploit it. Build it for the community.”

SEATTLE

MUSIC

What makes Seattle’s music scene unique, in your perspective?

That fact that we’re at the tail end of tradition now.

When I moved here, you could branch out and do lots of collaborations and cross-genre shows. In the last four to five years, that’s tapered off rapidly. As the city becomes more unaffordable for most artists, a majority of my artist friends don’t even live here anymore.

The art that comes out of here now is about survival, not just for the artist but for Seattle art in general. There’s no serious artist making art anymore who doesn’t realize that. It’s all more political even when it’s fun.

Favorite music moment in the last year?

Beacon Hill Block Party last year. There’s a dance crew called Northwest Tap, a group of young kids. The choreographer is a young rapper. They came and did a five to ten minutes tap performance to Janelle Monae’s Hell You Talmbout. It was really powerful. The street everyone was focused on these kids. It was filmed and

Matt “Spek” Watson

blew up on the internet. Now the school is booking gigs and it’s easier for them to recruit kids. It was a dance break in the middle of a hip hop show but ended up

Seattle artist you’re currently most excited about?

being a big moment. Janelle Monae saw the video and

I’m excited about all Seattle artists! It’s really hard to

retweeted it.

pick one and I wouldn’t! I have a really great opportunity to hear so many different styles of music and meet many different people, I feel very blessed and grateful.

There are many exciting things happening in Seattle

Sharlese Metcalf

and it’s fun to live and listen here.

Sharlese has a deep background in radio, having started the radio program at Green River Community College,

All time most influential Seattle artist in your life?

and later hosting Local Motion, the music show at KGRG,

I just don’t think I have just one. I’m influenced by

for three years. After this, she started volunteering at

Seattle. I’m influenced by Sub Pop and the bands they

KEXP in 2005 and has been working on the Audioasis

created, I’m influenced by all the people who are part

music show ever since, currently as the producer.

of the music and art scene that makes up Seattle. I don’t

How many years have you been in Seattle?

Thirty-eight years! My entire life!

have just one, I got into this because I like everyone and find inspiration through a little something that everyone does. It’s a great place for creativity.

SEATTLE

Loren Elliot

cleared, the clouds parted, the rain cleared up and

MUSIC

Mollie Bryan

What makes Seattle’s music scene unique, in your perspective?

Mollie runs a gallery and creative event space just

The scene has a bit of everything and offers it all in

south of Downtown called Mokedo, which hosts events

really great spaces around the city. It’s cool that festivals

focusing on visual arts, electronic music, and anything

in the city are doing all they can to support the local

else where these two art forms intersect.

scene as well, and give them a way to raise their profile.

The Seattle music scene is really full of community and

What is your music background?

everyone supports each other in different ways. You

When I moved to Seattle proper about nine years ago,

see shows that are very well mixed with different styles

I got totally immersed in the music community in the

of music so that everyone gets a chance to discover

ways I always wanted to be. I found my chosen family

different things and develop ways to support and

in electronic music, which sounds cheesy but it’s true. I

connect. I love it here!

started going to every show I could, I became Hospitality Director for Decibel Festival, and started putting on my

Seattle venue of choice and why?

own private events a few years back. And now 18 years

I would say Timbre Room because I like the size of the

after I first fell in love with electronic music, I have my

venue and I think the sound is pretty good. Vermillion

own gallery/venue and a giant community of talented

because it’s a great community space, Revolver because

humans!

I love all the records that come through there, and Pony because of how safe the space feels and the cool events

Seattle artist you’re currently most excited about?

that they host.

There are just so many amazing producers and artists in Seattle right now and I think there always will be. I like my music to tell a story, take me on a journey. Simic from the Secondnature crew takes me on a journey every time he plays. He’s a true storyteller of sounds and I’m really excited to see where he will go. My friend Keith Kelly of Cyanwave is creating some new music for a private festival I produce every year. After a few years of a producing hiatus, I’m drooling in anticipation of hearing his new sounds.

What makes Seattle’s music scene unique, in your perspective?

In the music communities I engage with, we’re all pretty supportive of each other. I think that makes us very unique. We understand everyone is promoting Lynae Cook

and performing for the greater good, so nobody is Noah Gundersen

really trying to one up each other nor does it feel very competitive. Sure there are a few egos out there, but

SEATTLE

MUSIC

Taylar Elizza Beth the rest of us are all about supporting each other and

Taylar Elizza Beth (Taylar White) is a rapper, singer, and

building each other up and that’s the good stuff that

songwriter. Her newest EP Fresh Cut Flowers dropped

makes the world go around!

in late May.

Favorite music moment of the past year or so?

How many years have you been in Seattle?

About four months after I opened up my gallery,

My whole life! I grew up in White Center (a neighbor­

Mokedo, Secondnature created an excellent private

hood southwest of the city).

event there, headlined by techno artist Jane Fitz.

Jane was such a storyteller behind the decks, it was

What is your music background?

incredible. At one point I stopped and took the moment

Growing up, I was heavily involved with multiple musi-

in. I realized that there we were. A room full of friends

cal productions, auditioned for (and got into) the talent

and strangers, coming together to experience joy and

show every year, and was even a part of a show choir.

happiness through sound and movement. Literally

I don’t actually play any instruments yet, unless you

every person was smiling. It wasn’t a party, it was an

count freestyle bongos.

experience. And this is the thing I live for and that sustains so many of us. Moments of musical bliss. The

Seattle artist you’re currently most excited about?

type of music doesn’t matter, it’s those connecting

I’m definitely most excited for myself. I’m in a really

moments of happiness through sound that matters.

great space as an artist, gaining confidence rapidly and in

Sound is incredible and that moment and my ability to

turn gaining recognition for that confidence. Right now,

help foster it will be forever ingrained in my mind as a

artists like DoNormaal, Guayaba, Astro King Phoenix

moment of great success and joy.

and Raven Matthews are revolutionaries in their own unique ways. They are definitely leading the wave.

“This is the thing I live for and that sustains so many of us. Moments of musical bliss. The type of music doesn’t matter, it’s those connecting moments of happiness through sound that matters.”

What makes Seattle’s music scene unique, in your perspective?

Well, first, the ‘music scene’ is so multidimensional and deep right now. It feels like the leaders of each genre are absolutely killing it by making music freely and unapologetically. But in the hip hop scene? My friends and I (mentioned above) are actively taking over. We are creating a largely novel sound, a new sub genre of hip hop that we plan to infect the world with.

Seattle venue of choice and why?

Places like The Timbre Room, or Nuemos are pretty dope venues. But honestly? The best performance moments are in grassy backyards, sweaty basements and impromptu 2am living room freestyles.

SEATTLE

MUSIC

Taylor Nelson Taylor is a designer living and working in Seattle,

of Seattle’s music scene wouldn’t be complete without

whose work and life draw inspiration from music and

a sweaty basement house show.

the broader Seattle arts and culture scene.

In recent years the Seattle feminist-punk band has reigned

Seattle artist you’re currently most excited about?

supreme - bands like Tacocat, Chastity Belt, Childbirth and Mommy Long Legs. That movement of irreverent

Everyone in the world, including yours truly, is stoked

fun femme-centric bands seems not necessarily Seattle

about Chastity Belt. I love them for so many reasons -

specific but definitely Seattle successful.

their irreverence and humor, their dreary yet melodic punk sound. I cannot stress how awesome it still is for

I think Seattle institutions like KEXP and the Vera

me to go to a show and see four women my age killing

Project are also really unique and important to Seattle’s

it on stage, singing about things I have experienced in

music scene. KEXP has brought so many wonderful

a way I can relate to. The world can often seem like a

artists from across the globe to this city, while also

boys’ club, even to a spectator like myself. Mosh pits are

providing a global platform for local bands.

not made for girls. I feel very much at home when I go to a Chastity Belt show.

I’ve always loved Black Lodge for the DIY and

What makes Seattle’s music scene unique, in your perspective?

community vibes. I’ve seen many a Seattle punk show there and it feels unique and important in this ever-

Seattle’s punk/rock history is still showing its lasting

changing city. For bigger, more official shows, the

impressions on this area’s music scene. Sonically, I

Neptune has a special place in my heart. I love the old-

think this city will always own a chunk of the punk air­

timey theater vibes and have seen so many great shows

waves. The DIY scene here is super strong, any picture

from a variety of genres there. ¢

DoNormaal

Taylor Nelson

SEATTLE

Talia Green

Lynae Cook

Seattle venue of choice and why?

Our correspondents

ADRIANA SPULBER

SERGEY POLIAKOV

ALEXA SFERLE

RALUCA COADA

BINE AȚI VENIT

Bucharest Leaning West, but never without losing its Eastern roots.

A city that can’t be defined, even by long-time residents.

Straddling the divide between the past and the present, East and West, Bucharest’s younger generation is always and forever looking to the future.

Reviving an iconic local brand The ten faces of Bucharest Communicating the symphonic energy of Bucharest

CONTENTS

MOBILITY

Reviving an iconic local brand Doing things with love is at the heart of Andrei Botescu, the man who had the idea to look back to his childhood and transport all the good vibes from his past into the future. It takes just one passionate man to revive an urban culture. As owner of the much-loved Romanian bike brand Pegas, Andrei reveals the story behind his beliefs and how his passions keep him moving forward.

Words by RALUCA COADA

Pegasus is a strong name in Greek mythology.

What about Pegas, here in Bucharest?

More than a bicycle, Pegas is a social project of all of

Andrei, as an owner of Bicicletele Pegas, do you believe that nostalgia plays a significant role in the human mind?

us, the Romanians. The fact that it offers a sentimental

(Laughing shyly)

product for a modest cost is a factor worth considering.

I believe all of us should have something of our own.

Most pieces are designed by us and manufactured in

Authenticity is what defines us, right? That’s how I

factories where the world’s best bicycles are made.

came up with this idea of reborn Bicicletele Pegas. The

A product needs to be in touch with the people’s needs,

long story short is that Pegas found me and that’s when

it has to perform, to improve their experience. When we

I realized its great potential. Not only as a business,

reinvented the Bicicletele Pegas brand, we thought that

but also as a need for authenticity mixed with some

both form and function should be important. It’s about

nostalgia and integrating future technology. I mostly

creating something that becomes part of our own reality.

try to bring the old Pegas into the future.

Is it a challenge to maintain authenticity of the brand while you plan to grow it?

What you are doing is amazing.

That’s the reason the Bicicletele Pegas was reborn:

learned a lot: what a business combined with passion

authenticity. A Romanian bicycle brand with a story

is and how these two work together. You need to have

that continues after our childhood ends. Pegas is not

a lot of perseverance and a strong dose of faith. And of

an unusual bicycle, it was just adapted to our modern

course, in life you should do what you like. If you make

lives with technology including different devices that

products like I do, you should always ask yourself:

improves the bike experience. Authenticity represents

would I buy that product if I were in the position of a

uncompromising decisions. Our products are very per-

customer? Always ask yourself this question and you’ll

sonal and we are planning to maintain this idea.

find out if you’re really doing a good job.

I never think of that. I am simply doing my best. I’ve

BUCHAREST

Sergey Poliakov

Vlad Stanescu

Vlad Stanescu

Why Bucharest? great stuff here. Not only for Bicicletele Pegas. You

Do you think that your hunger for technology applied to different devices will be ever satisfied?

might have heard this so many times that it has become

I am fascinated with things that are related to future

a cliché, but Bucharest is an intriguing place where you

technologies. I will invariably be.

I was born in Bucharest. I like it and you can do really

can really get things started.

Tell me more about your process of reinventing the idea of bicycles.

In this successful process of reinventing Bicicletele Pegas, what have you gained or lost?

This whole project is fascinating. It grew and it became

The technical stuff you deal with is fairly complex.

part of my identity. I am trying to communicate this

It really does become a sort of therapy, it’s all about

sentiment every day to the people I work with. And

the relationship you create between the product, the

to the people who buy the Pegas: DO what you love,

people you work with, the customers and yourself. Of

CONNECT your IDEAS and LET IT HAPPEN. ¢

course, reading between the lines, seeing through the

bicicletapegas.ro

veneer is also important. It is about the ability to see the whole process. I often ask myself: are we understanding what’s fully happening? Have we looked far enough ahead, so that we’re not surprised by anything?

BUCHAREST

Vlad Stanescu

Sergey Poliakov

CULTURE

The ten faces of Bucharest When I came to Bucharest as an expat I was trying to find a visual reference for my feelings. I initially described the city as being very mixed. Cultural invasions, architectural styles, culinary traditions, and even the language sounds like something between Italian and Russian (which still didn’t help me to understand it). I decided to combine my passion for photography and sketching to reference this feeling by creating a notebook about my time in Bucharest, showing you ten types of situations you might come across when you’re here.

Each represents a different part of the Bucharest identity.

Words & artwork by SERGEY POLIAKOV

BUCHAREST

Am I an art object too?

Sometimes Bucharest looks like an old European capital, like Vienna or Rome. But even then, there is always a reminder of its Romanian identity. For example, those letters on the gates.

Lost at the Sunday Flea Market The life of Bucharest hipsters is hidden.

All the fancy brunch places based in old mansions are kept secret for tourists. In these mansions all kinds of things can happen for example, a Sunday Flea Market, where this guy seemed to feel a little lost.

I found a car inside the snow The winter in Bucharest was one of the snowiest that I’ve ever seen. The amounts of snow are amazing and during the toughest days your walk from home to work becomes some kind of adventure - you are trying not to get wet, not to get snow in your shoes and always look for the easiest way.

Some cars were buried under the snow, so seeing people uncovering them was quite usual during that time.

Revolution in my phone Every day during the political protests we saw police cars outside of our building and people walking to the Victory square in a good mood.

It looked more like they were going to a fun show, not a protest. Despite their good moods and their small victory, it seems the battle has only just begun.

Lazy day in the sun During summer, when the sun goes down and the neon lights of sex shops and erotic massage salons light up, you can find people lying in front of closed cinemas. This guy decided to take a break in the shadow on a sunny day.

Waiting for something Bucharest requires patience. It is okay to wait for the metro for six minutes or to stand in line while someone is pedantically counting coins to give to the cashier. One gets used to the culture of waiting.

Babushki ‘Babushki’ is a Russian word, used for grandmothers. Just like in Russia, you can find babushkas everywhere here. And a funny fact - they all look the same. Hair scarf, long skirts and colorful outfits. Maybe it is just something Orthodox?

In the Roman shadows Once upon a time modern Romania was part of the Roman Empire called Dacia. You can still find those Roman traces here. I was trying to find the best position to take a picture of the ugliest sculpture of the city, and somehow I found the most beautiful building in town on the other side.

Combinations – that’s what defines Bucharest.

Bistro. Parisian style.

This picture represents everything «Bucharestian» to me. An air-conditioner, a Parisian-style street sign, the relationship between the advertisement and the person in it and those soft lights coming from the cafe in the evening.

Foggy day in the city The weather in Bucharest is really surprising. Unlike Saint Petersburg, my hometown, where winter (halfwinter, half-autumn actually) lasts six months, Bucharest has a real summer, real fall and real winter. This picture was taken in the fall, when I wasn’t able to see anything outside looking from our window on the seventh floor.

LOCAL HEROES

Communicating the symphonic energy of Bucharest They call themselves Golan (Romanian for troublemakers) but these three young men are anything but hooligans or rascals. In fact, these musicians have a strong academic background that matches their eclectic music; a surprising combination of electronic sounds with instruments like trumpets, percussions, and their own voices. Time to uncover the story of Golan, the Bucharest based band that’s already opened for the likes of Parov Stelar and Róisín Murphy.

Words by ADRIANA SPULBER Pictures by GOLAN

You went on tour with Parov Stelar and this summer you’ll be attending every major electronic music festival. Can you take us back to how everything started?

play what we want and how we want it and that’s all.

Golan started in 2013 as an electro musical project with

sanctuary, a project where everybody found himself.

Cuban and jazz rhythms. Alex was on holiday in Havana

Even those who are helping us share our philosophy.

This explains the improvisations in our performance as well. We are fortunate that our label, Etage Noir, gives us complete freedom to express ourselves. Golan is our

when he heard Ernesto play and he immediately asked him to come and make music in Romania. Alex’s leave Cuba and come to Europe. Several months later,

You are very particular about where and when you perform. Why is that?

Mihai joined the project and now the three of us are

We want Golan’s evolution to be a natural process. We

inseparable.

do not want to make the leap into mainstream music

professionalism and persistence convinced Ernesto to

artificially, so our listeners are the only indicator of

In your shows, you bring live instruments and even an orchestra. What makes your music sound so beautifully raw and hauntingly different every time?

success or fame. Never have we ever called a club or a festival to ask them to let us play there and this way we always took the pulse of our listeners. We can’t fool them and we certainly don’t fool ourselves. We cannot

We make music without having any kind of pressure,

offer anything else but our music, and we think over

we’re not trying to please anyone but ourselves. We just

exposing ourselves could alter our journey.

BUCHAREST

Alex and Mihai, you were born and raised in Bucharest. And Ernesto has been here for three years now. How and to what extent did this city influence Golan?

experience. I mean... we played our music at Alexandra

This project began in the streets of Bucharest. We used

European city. There are lots of good Romanian artists,

to go to parties where we listened to electronic music

and venues they can showcase their music at. If we had

and always thought that we should do something that

to compare, Berlin is probably the city that Bucharest

enabled us to take the stage with the artists we listened

resembles the most.

to. Bucharest also offered us a context for our project

Palace in London and that was a dream come true. But back to Bucharest’s music scene. Our city can offer the same range of parties, events and artists as any other

to grow and thrive, there were venues where we could

How do you experience Bucharest and its culture?

play and people that liked what we were doing. In a

People here live and breathe culture, from cinemato­

way, Golan is the energy of Bucharest, filtered through

graphy to theaters and music, and even what they

our senses.

wear and where they go to eat. I (Mihai) personally

Is there a big difference between Bucharest and the other European cities you played in?

like to go to art galleries like the National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC), or go see a play at Godot Cafe. We get most of our inspiration from the clubs we

Bucharest is a very active city. And we say this after

go to, like Control or Eden and many more. Bucharest

touring almost every major city in Europe. We’d like to

has a good vibe for electronic music.

pause here and say that we were humbled by this whole

BUCHAREST

LOCAL HEROES

And what about you, Ernesto? What does a Cuban guy find to do in Bucharest and how do you experience Bucharest?

I like to play ping-pong (chuckles). When I’m not making my own music, I like to listen to Brazilian or jazz music.

There are many places where you can go and listen to ambient jazz music. Bucharest is similar to Havana in many ways, like the people and the architecture. The freedom I have here is what I like the most. The music gave me a second home.

“Golan is the energy of Bucharest, filtered through our senses.”

You personally handle all your social media communication. How do you manage to do this, all by yourselves?

What’s next for Golan?

Easy. If someone, anyone, writes to us, we are happy to

album, which will contain all our songs and some new

engage in a conversation with him or her. After all, it’s

ones. We also shot a new video here in Bucharest, but

about a project we love, a passion of ours.

we don’t have a song for it yet. We had one, but we

Why wouldn’t we do it by ourselves? We like to stay in

changed our minds and now we are making a new

touch with our listeners because without them, we’d be

one to fit the visuals better. We want our videos to be

playing for ourselves.

extremely visually connected to the audio.

Is it cool to go and see Golan play?

We don’t think so (chuckles). We don’t consider our-

Tell me one word that should summarize the sound of Golan.

selves to be that cool. Everything is simple with us. We

Melancholia.

Next year we will probably go on tour once again with Parov Stelar, but right now we are working on our first

just make music, without taking trends into account.

We wear black T-shirts at our concerts because we

Golan launched their first album, named Intro, in April

don’t know how to dress on stage, what the appropriate

2017. Keep an eye on their tour schedule just in case

attire is. We can give you examples of cool bands, if

they come play in a city near you! ¢

you’d like? But for us, our focus is solely on our music.

facebook.com/golanmusic

So we hope our music is cool.

BUCHAREST

Our correspondents

ANTONIO LÓPEZ

MARTA AGUILAR

ROBIN COX

BIENVENIDO

Madrid A capital city in every sense of the word, brimming with creativity, always on the move, never afraid to embrace the new. One out of every five Madrilenians is an immigrant, which makes the city’s streets, its art, its identity and its gastronomical reputation an increasingly diverse sight to see. Still undeniable Spanish, but with a distinct international twist.

The world of Istituto Europeo di Design, where the future of fashion is designed La Casa Encendida: The Enlightened House Asian tastes flavoring Madrid’s gastronomy

CONTENTS

LOCAL HEROES

The world of Istituto Europeo di Design, where the future of fashion is designed On a glorious sunny day in Madrid, at the Istituto Europeo di Design (IED), we met up with Isabel Berz, IED’s Research and Education Center Director. While walking around campus, Isabel shared her vision on education with us.

Words by ROBIN COX Pictures by KEVIN RIJNDERS

Hello Isabel, can you tell us about your role at IED?

So, I think the most important part is to make students

I’ve been the director of the Research and Education

aware that there are no definitions, others than the

Center of IED since 2016. This center is where we

definitions that you make yourselves.

deve­lop special projects around the world. Before this, years.

What do you like most about fashion design in general?

At the fashion school, we were working with the stu-

Fashion design is a language: a designer has to express

dents and trying to get their real talents out, to identify

something. For me, every artist, film director or writer

the beauty they have inside of them.

has to express something, you have to tell a story. And

It’s really nice to see, after 4 years of studies, that they

fashion design for me is the same thing. You have to

become really aware of who they are and that they

build a story, a whole universe, and sometimes it’s

somehow accept that. That is the exciting part, to

some­thing you don’t even really understand. There can

accept who we are within all these different aspects,

and should be a mystery around it and it has to provoke

both the good and bad things.

something, otherwise it doesn’t move on.

I directed the Fashion School at IED Madrid for twelve

For this reason, I like fashion design, but also the

It’s a personal journey, right, of gaining more confidence along the way…

technical part, and the human side of things, on which we focus a lot here at IED. Students are fragile, but you

Yes, confidence, but also accepting the fact that confi-

should be fragile all your life, since it’s not a bad thing.

dence isn’t always there. Usually you have to achieve

Enjoy the process, it’s not only about the result. Even if

a result, at school, and in life, you have to show some-

it’s not perfect, in an objective way, or doesn’t fit, these

thing and everything is so definable. Success is defined,

are the projects that I love the most.

life is defined, everything is defined. And I don’t believe in those definitions.

MADRID

LOCAL HEROES

So, you somehow catch them by surprise, since most students expect to start with learning about patterns, textiles, and so on.

everything came together. I was invited to do shows,

At IED, it’s not about the result. It is not just about

needed distribution. I had to go to Paris to show my

their collections, since our students can also create

collections to an international market to start selling

a magazine, a service… the focus lies on creating a

in stores in the US and Japan.

won a prize, but also realized that doing a show didn’t really help, since you receive recognition but not the

project which can function as a unique experience something in line with fashion.

And how did you start working and teaching for IED?

Fashion is not the product. We make things that express

Well actually, I was called when IED Madrid opened

the moment! Students gain understanding of this

twenty years ago, when I was still running my own

concept with time.

brand. I was very young and didn’t know how to teach,

in everyone’s life. It could be anything, but of course

but loved working with people and the students.

I joined IED in 1995 as a teacher and afterwards I

“If you see a textile, you need to know where it’s from.

With creativity you have to start at the beginning.”

became the director of the final exam projects. I was also part of the Committee Scientifico, who asked me to put down a strong vision for a fashion school, which we eventually did and executed.

How has IED changed over the years?

I’m very curious myself and always ask my students to analyze the world; what is going on, what would be interesting to do. Researching together with them is very interesting and there are quite a lot students from that time that are doing very exciting things at the moment.

But it also needs to be very tangible and practical?

Since I’m a designer, not an academic, I like to look at projects and ways of working with students in a more

Of course, in our society today, we expect something

creative way.

new every day. Perhaps a message isn’t right today, but

These days, at IED Rec, we are preparing a new aca-

instead it might be relevant the day after tomorrow. It’s

demic concept to create a space where people can come

very much about timing nowadays, and that’s where

and work, and have access to everything they need to

we start. Our students make things that are not even

create. Each student has to define their personality and

ready for the market yet, but will connect at the right

interests and find out how he or she wants to work in

moment.

this space.

From nature, to the industrial side, from sewing to

And you worked in fashion yourself?

digi­tal. All of it in all areas, with full access to tools

I had my own brand as a fashion designer for 10 years,

and people who are experienced. The physical and

after studying in Paris and starting in the industry

emotional part here are both as important. A school

in Milan. I then moved to Madrid, where by chance

should reflect how 15 to 25-year-olds actually feel today.

MADRID

“Fashion is not the product.

We make things that express the moment!�

LOCAL HEROES

“There shouldn’t be teachers, there should be tutors, same as there are no students, they are researchers, and the school is not about seats, it’s about being a workspace.”

That also means you’ll have to change teachers…

But there’s also a big influence of fast fashion, with the

Well, there shouldn’t be teachers, there should be

likes of INDITEX, who own brands like Zara, Bershka,

tutors, same as there are no students, they are research-

and Mango. Lots of our students start working for

ers, and the school is not about seats, it’s about being a

INDITEX, since it’s the biggest textile company in

workspace.

the world, located in La Coruna, the Silicon Valley of

And the workspace is not just about the industrial

fashion. They want the best talents in the world and can

process, but also about the digital, and everything

get nearly everyone they want.

the two have in common, and the nature of materials

So many students go work for larger fashion brands, but

is fundamental. If you see a textile, you need to know

we have students that also go international, working for

where it’s from. With creativity you have to start from

the likes of Alexander McQueen, Kenzo, Lanvin, Acne,

the beginning.

Chloé, and so on. And we have lots that do their own

If you want to look at the future, you also have to look

projects, work as freelancers or start their own brand.

backwards, back to the origins and then mix it up with

But in general, you do see an important artisanal

the now, which is very exciting.

movement in Madrid, with talented individuals ope­

So, you’re in the midst of the transition, from old to new…

ning small shops. The whole area around our school has changed over the last fifteen years. It’s a maker’s culture where people want to know the origins of a

It’s a beginning of something new, right now we’re

product. And they are just fine making a living like that,

preparing the first Fashion & Technology Research

to not be internationally renowned.

Program, a pilot project, working with a lot of partners We will select twenty-five talents from all over the

Do you stay in touch with most of the students after graduation?

world, from fashion designers, and industrial designers

In 10 years I got to know hundreds of students and

to visual artists, biologists, chemists, coders, and so on,

have always worked with them in their final year on

and put them all together and see what they can think of.

the graduation project. But there are always special

who support us with knowledge, materials and expertise.

How would you describe fashion culture in Madrid?

It has a long tradition. Forty years ago every woman had

ones, who became close friends. Also in Paris, when I visit, I see them and it’s nice, because they are my little heroes. After all, we are just people…

a seamstress for the love of craft and beautiful clothing.

Madrid has had a fashion week for over twenty-five

The designer featured here is Manuela Fidalgo, creator

years, which is very long, and every five years they are

of Verbo Studio. ¢

part of the Mercedes-Benz calendar, which is quite an

ied.edu

important achievement.

MADRID

CULTURE

La Casa Encendida: The Enlightened House Contemporary art fans. Children running around. Nobel Prize winners. Teens who lie down to listen to electronic music. Students in the library. Radio speakers. Techies creating. Moviegoers. Rock stars. Immigrants learning Spanish (for free). Experts in armed conflicts. Ecologists.

Or just coffee lovers. If you are seeking for the soul of La Casa Encendida, you will find it in the people wandering the corridors, halls and auditoriums. Please, come on in!

Words & pictures by MARTA AGUILAR

A “Monte de Piedad” reincarnation

Madrid was then starting to grow fast, and a savings

It’s May 1, 1967. A woman comes down the stairs of

bank was required for the growing economy. Looking

La Casa Encendida on her wedding day. She lived and

more like a palace than a financial institution, the new

worked there, back when the building was a far cry from

Neo-Mudéjar style building had three stories, a cellar

what it is now. It was a charitable pawnshop and a bank,

that served as a shelter during the Spanish Civil War

a well-known Lavapiés neighborhood in­sti­tu­tion. But

(1936-1939), two big towers, and one of the capital’s

back then Lavapiés wasn’t the neigh­borhood we know

first electric elevators.

today. It was known for an oil station and the Mount of

The bank and pawnshop workers still remember plenty

Piety. Seventy-year-old neighbors still remember how

of sewing machines among all the pawned objects.

they grew up facing the La Casa building, playing in the

It was a poor pawnshop where no jewelry or golden

sand box across the street and buying fresh milk from

coins came through the door. The neighborhood was

the cowshed the next street over. The city was growing

a poor one, and its residents only had basic objects to

rapidly, and this newly established bank was opening

be pawned. There’s a legendary story of an old man in

the gate to many other worlds.

the neighborhood, who would pawn his mattress each

The La Casa Encendida building used to serve as a

year to be able to afford tickets to the San Isidro Bullfight

home for the workers of this banking and pawnshop

Festival. By the time the festival was almost finished, the

center. The first stone was placed on May 1, 1911,

man would sell his last ticket to get his mattress back.

and the bank officially opened its doors a year later.

MADRID

CULTURE

Enlightening people

new talent, a creative laboratory, and a meeting place

The first bank of the south of Madrid is now more

for anyone who wants to stop by. Spend a few days at

than one hundred years old. Fifteen years ago, it was

La Casa Encendida and you might see an art exhibition

transformed into the most important cultural center of

about libraries, attend a children’s book fair, participate

Lavapiés, which has turned popular and cosmopolitan

in a gardening course or learn all about community

over the years. La Casa Encendida (The Enlightened

activism.

House) was originally to be called La Casa de Empeños

Over the years, La Casa Encendida became part of the

(The Pawnshop), but they dismissed this idea because

Montemadrid Foundation, which works with several

times had changed. Nobody pawned anything anymore

projects like schools, social institutions, and so on.

in those days, so nobody understood the meaning of

They are active on a smaller scale now, because, as

it. Now, 15 years later, La Casa still hosts a myriad of

Lucía told us, they used to get a percentage of their

cultural activities, workshops and courses, enlightening

funding from some social work and corporate social

people along the way. The heroes behind this project are

responsibility initiatives from banks, but they don’t

many. They are a group of enthusiasts, one that’s been

count on that anymore.

evolving and incorporating new, younger members to fill the house with a new energy. We talked to one of them, Lucía Casani, communications director of La Casa Encendida, who walked us through what exactly this enlightening is all about.

Crossing paths, connecting fields La Casa’s founder and ideologue was José Guirao, who left the center three years ago to run the Fundación Montemadrid. When La Casa started he was leaving

“This is exactly what we aim for: to be a meeting point, to provide people with spaces to make them come together.”

a position as director of the Reina Sofía Museum and was already a well-known manager, but to the organization’s surprise, he asked for a team of inexperienced

“We are now going through an interesting phase since

twentysomethings to work with on this new venture.

we are a private foundation with a public vocation. That

Including Lucía, who was only 24 years old at the time.

means we can win in both areas. Regarding the public

As it turns out, this was exactly the breath of fresh air

aspect, you have to listen to more people involved,

the project needed. They started to gather ideas of what

and the private side helps us take more risks to bet on

they would love to see in Madrid, the kind of things

more ideas. The aim has always been to get to different

nobody else was doing yet.

audiences, and it’s something that, despite all the

In a nutshell, La Casa Encendida is many different

changes, La Casa keeps on pursuing.”

things all at once. It is a cultural center showcasing arts, music, literature, and cinema, as well as a social cen­ter

Culture, solidarity, environment, and education

promoting social integration and community involve-

But how does this diversification take form? They

ment. It’s also a non-formal education center, a forum

work mainly in four different areas: culture, solidarity,

for social and environmental debates, a plat­­form for

environment, and education.

MADRID

“We like all four areas to cross paths in our activities.

everybody with these values, but the truth is that this is

That’s how we manage to reach different audiences

also a big everyday effort, and it also costs money. The

that would never have discovered La Casa if we would

most important thing is to teach people to value quality

have put the focus on one topic only,” Lucía explains.

and the value of a thing itself ”, says Lucía.

La Casa Encendida is a mix between what a regular cultural institution would be, like a modern art museum

The next 15 years

or an international organization, and a common cul­

La Casa Encendida is now also a resource center, offer-

tural community center.

ing free Wi-Fi. A simple service, but one that attracts a

One of the successes of La Casa Encendida is its rela-

diverse group of people to come in to gather and min-

tionship with the Embajadores and Lavapiés neigh­

gle. Some might come just to study or to work, but when

borhoods, and the squaring of the circle formed by

they’re there they might discover a new art exhibition

contemporary creation and critical thinking for all

or meet somebody interesting. This builds connections

audiences. Francisco Javier Ruiz, president of the

and networks. “This is exactly what we aim for: to be a

neighborhood association La Corrala, insists that La

meeting point, to provide people with spaces to make

Casa Encendida is like Lavapiés itself, very diverse and

them come together.”

open to all. According to most of the neighbors, La Casa

Looking ahead to the next 15 years, things might change

was one of the first institutions in the area that became

drastically, or they might not. Being able to create

cultural and social, at a time when there was absolutely

projects that spark curiosity and start conversations is

nothing of the sort there. And it has meant something

already a big success and something to aim for. La Casa

fabulous for the area.

Encendida will always be an inflection point in Madrid’s

Accessibility and sustainability are the main driving

cultural and social landscape, and it will definitely keep

forces for the La Casa Encendida’s team. “The dream

enlightening many more minds along the way. ¢

is to keep the essence of being an open space for

lacasaencendida.es

MADRID

FOOD

Asian tastes flavoring Madrid’s gastronomy Foodies. They’re everywhere these days. Who isn’t one?

With our inherent love for food, Spanish people might be seen as the ‘original’ foodies. We live for food, and gastronomy defines our cities. Cities like Madrid, which are always changing, always evolving. And with them, the food culture evolves as well, moving forward along with the people it serves, picking up influences from digital culture and the city’s new residents. So foodies, meet Madrid’s non-traditional food culture.

Words by MARTA AGUILAR Pictures by ANTONIO LÓPEZ

MADRID

FOOD

Social encounters with quality food: is it here to stay or

at a new restaurant called The Japanese Burrito, which

just a fleeting trend? Social media is now our personal

serves a giant sushi roll in the shape of a burrito. We

guide to food culture, a way to navigate evolving food

love to experiment, and Asia is giving us all the flavors

trends. But being exposed to these social networks

and inspiration to create new experiences. So get out

means there’s a permanent pressure and anxiety to

there and explore the diverse menus of Lavapiés, and

know which option is the very best. Going out for dinner

Salamanca or Malasaña!

has become more like going to the theater, where every detail of the performance counts and the experience is

Multiculturalism through food

rated by how ‘instagrammable’ it was.

The best thing about this new food trend isn’t just

On the other hand, maybe this digitalization and glo-

the new, super authentic places coloring our neigh­

balization of food culture is also the reason why we feel

borhoods, but also the more traditional Spanish menus

more attracted to and interested in the gastronomic

adopting Asian flavors and mixing them with our

legacies of countries far away from home. It takes us

own cuisine. We’re getting closer to our immigrant

much closer to other food cultures, and we get curious.

neighbors by getting to know them through their food.

In Madrid, Asian food culture is one of the biggest new

For us food-loving Spanish, there’s no better way to

influences in town. Perhaps thanks to social media,

embrace another culture than to create a dish out of it.

but definitely thanks to the city’s large immigrant

Because there will be no better conversations than the

population. One out of every five Madrilenians is an

ones shared over a table covered in delicious food. We

immigrant. And together with the South American and

might never tire of our Spanish tapas, but we certainly

Romanian population, Madrid’s Chinese population is

can enhance these traditional dishes by adding a little

one of the largest immigrant populations in town, and

taste of new ingredients, and continue to evolve and

has had a huge influence on Madrid’s neighborhoods.

be proud of our gastronomy with all the new influences

And with that influence also comes food.

coming our way. ¢

Embracing the new Chinese restaurants have been around in Madrid for some decades already, but were always seen as more of an exotic concept. Worth a visit once, but too foreign to embrace as our own gastronomy. This perception has changed with the food trends invading the capital recently. Not just Chinese food, but Asian food in general has come to Madrid to stay, and Madrilenians are embracing it as their own. Walk through the streets of Tirso de Molina and enter a Thai street food market to smell the scent of real bao or steaming ramen soup.

Keep walking and you will find a specialty bao place next to a tortilla bar. And we haven’t even mentioned sushi yet, something us Madrid dwellers just can’t get enough of. This Spanish-Asian fusion is most evident

MADRID

Artist in Residence How do artists influence the city they live in, and how does the city influence them? Would they be the same artist if they lived somewhere else, or does a specific urban environment have a profound impact on their practice?

Artist In Residence explores these questions and more by showcasing artists from a specific field in different cities.

First up: five successful fashion designers from Seattle, Bucharest, Madrid, Bristol and Amsterdam. Gatekeepers of our sense of urban fashion and influencers of style.

Kevin Rijnders

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE AMSTERDAM

Anbasja Blanken What made you become a fashion designer?

I always liked to create things that make people happy and I have found it in creating beautiful garments that empower women.

Where in the city do you take your inspiration from?

A lot of inspiration comes from the different people roaming around in the city. The diversity within their flow inspires me the most.

Personally, I wouldn’t mind seeing a little bit more elegance on the streets here, but I do like it!

If we see you again five years from now, what do you hope your life will look like?

I hope to have found the balance between being an international brand / designer and enjoying life to the fullest. While still being immersed in creating amazing garments that I endorse.

How do you think your city influences people’s fashion choices?

And do you like it?

I think Amsterdam as a whole is a free spirit (and open-minded), which creates space for diversity between people and their fashion choices.

alablanka.com anbasjablanken.com

Andra Andreescu

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE BUCHAREST

Andra Andreescu What made you become a fashion designer?

I wanted to be able to connect, create, inspire and be inspired by other people around the world.

on with their everyday activities. But I feel like in Bucharest, there is also room for intellect and improvement. I feel like there is enough space left to fill with creativeness and content.

Where in the city do you take your inspiration from?

The city itself inspires me, the harmonious blending of so many different influences, its eclectic style and the history of the old corners of Bucharest. Also, going out to different events and seeing the looks of my friends is always inspiring.

If we see you again five years from now, what do you hope your life will look like?

In five years I will own a house outside the city, where I will wake up pretty early to feed the chickens and the dogs, make myself a cup of tea, crawl back into bed and read the news/catch up on emails. My days will consist of a little rest and relaxation, a little productivity and creativity on some of my projects and a little activity. I will still have my business next to all the other smart entrepreneurs of Bucharest, selling all over the planet and extending to the moon.

How do you think your city influences people’s fashion choices? And do you like it?

Bucharest is a city where anyone can feel at home, so I think people feel comfortable with wearing anything that allows them to have fun and go

andraandreescu.ro

Saltaire Life

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE SEATTLE

Jancy Quinn What made you become a fashion designer?

My best friend and I have been obsessed with fashion and textiles since we met in the seventh grade. We always talked about starting our own apparel line and dabbled with various business ideas. We both love travel, global textiles and discovering new trends. We had talked for years but finally everything came together with kimonos. It was a bit serendipitous, and has been really fun the whole way. Saltaire Life is a new company, but it’s the result of a twenty-five-year journey and friendship.

Where/what in the city do you take your inspiration from?

The water - we created our name from the ocean influence in Seattle.

We were trying to find a name for our company and after brainstorming ocean names all day, we finally left the house and passed a building with Saltaire written on the side of it...across the street from the water.

There is also a large Asian influence in Seattle, I have always admired the beauty and intention of Japanese art and design. We adore each kimono as they are truly each a work of art. I have a hard time letting them go, actually.

How do you think your city influences people’s fashion choices?

And do you like it?

Seattle has a very clear influence: the rain! There is a very practical side to fashion here and it is often subdued, we have generally mild temperatures but wet conditions most of the year. To counter that, our kimonos are the opposite of practical. They are all about breaking out of functional wear and celebrating fun and eccentric moments. We wanted to create bold and whimsical creations to shake up the grey.

If we see you again five years from now, what do you hope your life will look like?

You really never know what tomorrow will bring. We only started our collection a short time ago and are already amazed with the momentum and energy around our line. I would love to see us extend to new offerings and can’t wait to see how this continues to evolve.

And no matter what, I strive to continue to keep re-use, upcycling and repurposing at the heart of what we do. I want to continue pushing to have responsible and domestic production, and find ways to elevate women globally. I hope that we continue to find fun and joy every step of the way.

saltairelife.com

Morgane Bigault

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE BRISTOL

Kate Uzzell What made you become a fashion designer?

At Antiform, we’ve all been making clothes since we were very young.

We had various internships whilst studying, which were fantastic, but we came to the conclusion that the mainstream fashion industry is not at all where we were at. We realized that our love and drive for clothing people came from wanting to create positive change in a sometimes less than inspiring industry. We continue to think creatively about how to make all the good stuff happen in a way that we can be proud of. In essence, we are makers.

Where in the city do you take your inspiration from?

People. Antiform has had two homes, the brand was set up in Yorkshire, but then moved to Bristol. Since moving down here we discovered many inspiring new networks. In Bristol, people are interested in where their food comes from and in creative approaches to housing, we want to add fashion to that awareness agenda. Through working with local suppliers and makers we create products shaped by the fact that we are in this place. Old Market plays a large part in our identity, as it is where we collaborate with other amazing creative businesses, such as the brilliant Ottowin Footwear.

How do you think your city influences people’s fashion choices? And do you like it?

Bristol was European Green Capital of 2015, and although there is a healthy sharing economy and people are very comfortable with recycling, sometimes people don’t make the connection between clothing design and green issues. Bristol is an independent city, but there is not a huge amount of independent fashion retail offered and we think there could be more.

If we see you again five years from now, what do you hope your life will look like?

We would love to have a regular retail space in Bristol to share with the other amazing creative makers we know. It is important to us to keep responding to other creatives and to keep collaborating. Making the link with the public and how people use and respond to their clothing is important, so we’d like to have more interaction with the public. First steps on this path will be taken this year, with the Studio 1A Makers Club clothing workshops. We are also excited to further our unisex, lifestyle and interior collections.

antiformonline.co.uk

Marta Aguilar

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE MADRID

Raquel Zorraquín What made you become a fashion designer?

Since I was a child, I have been always into fashion. Actually, I loved arts and fashion, and my dream was studying and working in both. For me, they are so connected, because fashion is like painting on a body in 3-D, and it is all about expressing yourself. The first thing you see on someone is their style, personality, and yes, everybody judges a book by its cover. So, that’s why fashion is so important to me.

How do you think your city influences people’s fashion choices?

And do you like it?

Madrid is a big cultural city where you can dress any way you like. But to be honest, the people are not very open minded yet, so that affects your choice. Inditex, a giant fashion retailer, is everywhere, and lots of people buy their clothes there. That’s Spain. But if you want to see a little bit of art in people’s outfits, Malasaña is the place to go.

Where in the city do you take your inspiration from?

I do everything in my room. From the researching to sewing. But I do like going around to young neighborhoods like Malasaña, where I can watch people’s outfits. But mainly my inspiration comes from fashion pictures, music, art, and Bowie (yes, Bowie)...

If we see you again five years from now, what do you hope your life will look like?

I would love to accomplish many things in five years, but my ambition is quite realistic, and I am happy if I can just make a living with my company. But what I would really love is to be living in another big city, like Berlin, Japan, New York or London (if we are allowed to still live there by then...). Traveling makes me happy. If I can bring all my company there and still be successful, oh god that would be heaven.

raquelzorraquin.com

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Our correspondents

MORGANE BIGAULT

WELCOME

Bristol Perhaps the most telling historical tidbit about Bristol is that the city gave birth to both Britain’s most notorious pirate, and the world’s most revered graffiti artist.

Blackbeard and Banksy both call Bristol home. A typical port city where history peeks through a multicultural, vibrant and slightly quirky urban environment.

The Old Bookshop Why printed products matter in a digital world Bristol Urban Landscape

CONTENTS

HOSPITALITY

The Old Bookshop On Bristol’s North Street, just south of the river, lies The Old Bookshop. A pub, a legend. We meet the owner, Ben Gatt, and when we arrive, he takes us through the story of his venture as if he’s rehearsing for a grand performance.

Words & pictures by MORGANE BIGAULT & ED THOMAS

“I used to live in Chepstow, South Wales, and it wasn’t

We’ve always kept the same format: good food, good

far to come for a night out in Bristol. I loved it, it’s got

drink and live music.

a great vibe. I was in the building industry, fitting a lot

We’re not the biggest place, so I can’t pay people as

of kitchens and bathrooms – a very different job. A lot

much as I’d like, but a few years ago we introduced

of our work was in Bristol, so I had been coming here

cocktails and we offer a nice experience to bands

10 years before moving. There was nothing to keep me

coming – I always try and give them as many free drinks

in South Wales so I made the move, and didn’t know

as I can.

anyone here – but it’s the best thing I’ve done.

My music tastes are quite broad, but if it’s Nick Cave

When we first opened, it was just the one half of the

or Prince, I’m sold. I take the sound very seriously, and

store, so it has developed since. The bit we’re in now

when we have someone in, it’s about making them feel

actually used to be a beauty salon. My father and I have

at home. Because I’ve done that, I get a lot of people

done everything in here ourselves: every tile, the bar,

contacting me now. It just evolved naturally.” ¢

the kitchen, the toilets.

We had a big yard space at our last home, so we collected a lot of stuff over the years.

The RNLI poster is an original. My dad has a vintage lifeboat, two actually, both restored – this is one of the 1940s posters.

We have this time machine, with a whisky still. It’s built from engine parts, and other stuff we’ve cobbled together.

The last two years we’ve been doing pop-up restaurants, so every month the food changes, with a different chef.

We’re going back to a permanent chef now, but we’re not stopping the pop-ups... they are moving to a secret new location!

We do a little side promotion as well, so we have people come from other venues in Bristol and put on shows.

BRISTOL

“We had a big yard space at our last home, so we collected a lot of stuff over the years.�

LOCAL HEROES

Why printed products matter in a digital world If you’re looking for a spot in Bristol to get inspired for all your creative endeavors, Papersmiths is the place to be.

Owner Sidonie Warren tells us why print is not dead.

Words & pictures by MORGANE BIGAULT

When and where did you start Papersmiths?

championing the work of lots of print designers, the

The Papersmiths journey began somewhere between

name just came out.

January and March 2013. Kyle Clark and I were running business to Bristol. We took this shop unit on Perry

Could you explain more specifically why this area of Bristol, Clifton Village?

Road in the Arts’ quarter. Our studio was called Some­

First, the building came up and it could offer the space

thing Good and we decided to turn half the studio into

of a design studio as well as a shop floor. We also real-

a shop, which we called Something Else.

ized that this area was a lot busier than where we were

a design studio in Bridport. We decided to move the

originally. A lot of locals as well as tourists come here

Could you explain the change of name, going with Papersmiths?

because it is a shopping destination. As soon as we started we made more sales, and could afford to bring

In 2014 we were outgrowing our space: running a shop and a design studio simultaneously from one room

more stationery to the people of Bristol.

became a bit too much. Our clients started shopping

Who’s behind Papersmiths?

during meetings, it just got really difficult to manage the

Kyle Clark and I dreamt up the idea and we own the

two in one space. We saw the space where we currently

business. I work really closely with Rebecca Lee who

are in Clifton Village, a four-story Georgian building.

is the shop manager but works with me a lot on the

When we made that leap, we understood it was the

marketing and buying and does all the copywriting.

perfect opportunity to redefine what we were doing and

We also have six part-time people running the shop.

rather than being a design store we decided to focus on

Finally, Rachel Brown does the amazing photography

our passion: stationery and paper. Because we were

of all our products that you see on Instagram.

“People want something tactile, since we’re in such a digital age and everyone does everything on a device.”

BRISTOL

“Magazines are important nowadays because the internet gives us such an overwhelming amount of information which isn’t usually curated.”

LOCAL HEROES

Do you have a relationship with the people behind the products that you sell?

What is attracting people to come into Papersmiths?

We’ve got a mixture of relationships going on. When we

Stationery is a kind of obsession for many people, so

started out it was all direct with makers and designers.

that’s one reason. There’s also the environment in the

Now, as we have a massive shop to fill, there are over

shop where people come and can browse magazines and

a hundred print publications and over three hundred

books and get their own inspiration. Our big windows

different products. The relationships I do have directly

help; people can peer in. Something that is quite unique

with designers and makers are amazing, as we’ve been

at Papersmiths is our team. Our team working on the

working together for a couple of years. When I went to

shop floor all have an outside interest in stationery;

the stationery show in New York this year, I met with

they are designers, photographers, or they’ve studied

all the card designers there, some of them we went out

fashion and they bring really good conversation to the

for dinner with and it was amazing to turn this working

shop floor and can relate to the customers.

relationship into a real-life one. We do work with some in particular. I source them from the big magazine

So people are attracted visually by a certain minimalist style?

distributors. Then I work locally with the Bristol Inde­

People say so. For me it’s just how we’ve always done

pen­ dent Publisher Group and purchase magazines

things. From my first experience in retail at American

directly from the editors.

Apparel, we color blocked everything and this had an

distribution companies as well, for the magazines

impact on my compulsive color blocking style that we use now for our display. There’s a real sense of order and I like things to be in threes, it works for merchandising and it’s appealing to people. There’s also a mixture of the contemporary and traditional.

Can you tell us about the selection of magazines you sell, as there are hundreds of good ones now on the market?

It is really difficult. We stock about one hundred titles and we’ve got room for just that. But even though magazines have taken up a huge space, we try to keep a limited amount by offering a broad range across diffe­ rent themes: design, food and drinks, interior, architecture, music, lifestyle, fashion, a decent mix.

When it comes to making the selection, there’s an element of personal interest, of specific themes we imagine customers would be interested in. There’s also the titles that work and which we’ve been selling for a couple of years. Those can guarantee 30 to 40 copies sold in sales.

BRISTOL

Is print dead or are we witnessing a revival?

I don’t think print is dead. It’s very much alive actually

To some extent, is Papersmiths a source of inspiration for Bristolians?

and there’s almost a backlash against the digital

I hope Papersmiths provides a space where people

culture. We have greeting cards on our shelves that

can come in, spend some time in a trunk with a non-

aren’t digitally printed, on the contrary! They are using

pressure retail environment and just browse and if they

techniques such as risograph, silk screen, boiling letter

go away with something that inspires them to create,

press, there’s a real movement and resurgence of those.

that’s amazing!

People also want something tactile, since we’re in such a digital age and everyone does everything on a device.

Would you ever consider opening another shop, locally, nationally, internationally?

Why are magazines important in a digital world?

We’ve just opened a shop in Shoreditch, London, which

Magazines are important nowadays because the

is the best reward after 6 years adventure! We are also

inter­net gives us such an overwhelming amount of

focusing on our online presence and marketing so

information which isn’t usually curated. And when it

watch this space! ¢

is, it’s generally done by a platform like Facebook. We

papersmiths.co.uk

live in a social bubble where the information comes in quite biased. I’m a real advocate for diversity, the publi­cations on our shelves have a focus on a particular theme and can go into a huge amount of depth. They have well thought-out articles written by editors putting hours of research and time into their work. I also really value tactility and the feeling of paper and the smell of ink, you just don’t get that online.

BRISTOL

NEIGHBORHOODS

Bristol Urban Landscape Bristol. The UK’s first cycling city. European Green Capital of 2015. Proud carrier of its own currency, the Bristol Pound. Summer festival central and home to a variety of historical, classic landmarks. Bristol has many faces, and can be described in many different ways. But the best and only way to experience this alternative port city, is to free your mind, open your heart, and just wander.

Pictures by MORGANE BIGAULT

BRISTOL

Bristolians are fiercely proud of their city. They’re a diverse lot, but a sense of community and togetherness permeates every street corner, local deli, maker space, market square and music venue.

Colorful expressions of artistic personalities dot the streets of Bristol. Graffiti at its best, transforming facades, dark corners, bridges and tunnels into works of art. It’s no wonder Banksy started his illustrious career right here in these streets.

The river Avon cuts through the heart of the city, and has sparked a lively yet creative Harbourside where independent art galleries and tech businesses coexist.

Our correspondents

KEYHÉ DELSINK

ROBYN COLLINGE

RICHARD RIGBY

MIO VAN DER MEI

WELKOM

Amsterdam You can spend weeks wandering around Amsterdam, and you still wouldn’t be able to make sense of the contradiction between its picturesque vibe and notorious night life. There’s a whole world hidden behind the city’s infamous drug-friendly, tolerant society. And just when you think you’ve got the city figured out, someone takes you on a boat ride to a self-sufficient island, and you begin your journey of discovery all over again.

Examining the Normalization of Drug Use in Amsterdam Wining, Dining, and Isling: Sustainability on Vuurtoreneiland Amsterdam Underground

CONTENTS

CULTURE

Examining the Normalization of Drug Use in Amsterdam From the boundless ‘80s to the city’s contemporary drug scene, the normalization of drug use in Amsterdam is a complicated, multifaceted development. Education is the key to making sure normalization can be embraced without any dangerous consequences.

Words by KEYHÉ DELSINK Pictures by RICHARD RIGBY

Outsider’s view

this was considered normal in Amsterdam; openly

It’s Friday night, and I’m taking a friend from New York

speaking about every single substance that God has

out for a night on the town in Amsterdam to show him

forbidden. My answer: yes, it is.

our unrestrained clubbing scene. It was summertime:

My friend’s shocked reaction made me realize how

the perfect season to visit Amsterdam. The city gains

normalized our drug culture has become compared to

a boundless energy once the warmer months come

other countries, and that apparently, millennials here

around. I decided we would start slowly with some

don’t have any kind of boundaries or hesitations when

drinks at one of our local bars. I told him a bit about our

speaking on the subject. Where does this behavior come

culture and surprised him with the fact that we do a lot

from? Is this something from our generation, or did the

more in our spare time than just smoking J’s.

generation before us lay out the foundation for it? What

In the middle of our conversation, someone I know

makes Amsterdam the city without boundaries, where

came over to say hi. I introduced the American kid, and

you can use whatever you want and be totally cool

it didn’t take long before the three of us started talking

about it? And are there any consequences?

about Amsterdam’s massive portfolio of festivals. The guy asked me which festivals I was going to and then

The vibrant ‘80s

bragged about this new designer drug he was about to

In order to understand the behavior of my generation,

use next weekend. Within two minutes my American

generation Y (also known as the ‘Pills Generation’), we

friend saw the conversation escalate from a close chat

need to dig into the city’s vibrant urban cultural history

between friends to an open talk about our recreational

during the ‘80s. Amsterdam has gone through many

drug use. He was left open-mouthed and asked me if

stages of social rationalizing, stimulated by the younger

“The government prefers that users are taking the drugs responsibly rather than hunting them down and putting them behind bars.”

AMSTERDAM

CULTURE

generations in charge at the time. The ‘80s were an era

scene a couple of years ago as a legal alternative to

when people wanted to be freed from any kind of dogma

XTC. 2-CB is on the rise thanks to some proper word of

or politically controlled mindset. Unsurprisingly, a ram­

mouth promotion. Even though these newcomers are

pant self-interest mentality was an important theme

welcomed with open arms by the Amsterdam clubbing

during this decade. Ecstasy (XTC) was considered the

scene, little is known about their short and long-term

perfect new drug to cater to this free mindset and thus

side effects. And that’s where it gets tricky, because

left its mark on Amsterdam’s party scene.

most millennials are just going for it without knowing

During the late ‘80s, house music made its way over

what they’re actually consuming. A behavior we can

from England. It’s the kind of music that matches

most certainly attribute to the normalization and con-

one’s high state of mind perfectly. Legendary clubs

sumerization of drug use in the Netherlands.

like Club RoXY and the iT were the first ones to pick up on the house movement and started organizing tons of events. But Amsterdammers were mostly clueless about how to use drugs responsibly, and back then speaking about drugs wasn’t quite as accepted as it is now. The government became aware of the new drug trend, and prohibited many of the parties around the city. But it didn’t take long before the city got its festive vibe back again, thanks to the return of house music

“Most Amsterdammers consider the use of drugs as ‘the greatest bad idea’.”

in 1991. ‘Work hard, play hard’ was the new motto of many Amsterdammers, and together with that new

That being said, we also have to highlight the individuals

motto came a new type of drug user who could easily

that are actually doing their homework first before

afford several lines of various substances; anything to

choosing which drugs they’re going to use, perhaps

keep you going.

as a response to the recklessness of their peers. These people can be found in the Amsterdam millennial

Newcomers

in-crowd, around 25 to 30 years old. Young adults who

Fast forward to where we stand now: society has

want to be in the know, and are quite able to say what

changed, and the government has changed with it. The

the best way of using drugs is. They know where to buy

party scene nowadays is very mixed and a true melting

them, and how to make smart choices. How they know,

pot of many subcultures: from hipsters and ravers to

you’re asking? They inform one another. Something

gays and snobs. Most of them are young adults who

the Amsterdam government is trying to do as well,

want to escape reality and get a break from their daily

whether it’s via public television shows where the hosts

struggles and tedious lives by using drugs. And now­

are testing the drugs themselves and reporting on their

adays, Amsterdam has a lot more to offer than just

experience, or with a ‘Test your Drugs’ stand at the

XTC. Ketamine, 4-Fluoroamphetamine, GHB, and

annual Amsterdam Dance Event. The government

2-CB are just a few new kids on the block. These might

prefers that users are taking the drugs responsibly rather

sound like robots from a cheesy sci-fi film, yet they’re

than hunting them down and putting them behind bars.

anything but alien to the Amsterdam crowd. 4-FMP is

It’s a very different approach compared to other cities

quite new in town and made its silent entry onto the

and countries around the world.

AMSTERDAM

But even though there is a group of people who feel some

divided it into two different groups: the ones who are in

sort of responsibility for their drug use, responsible still

the know, and the ones who think they are, but actually

isn’t the word you would use to describe their behavior.

aren’t. The first group of users is responsible and

“Most Amsterdammers consider the use of drugs as

educate one another. The second group is boundless,

‘the greatest bad idea’,” explains Mike (35) who has

and clueless when it comes to drugs. They have a more

lived in the city most of his life. “The little voice in the

‘screw you’ attitude, picking and mixing their way

back of our head says it’s bad, but the drugs still beat

through drug land.

common sense.”

This is a trend that worries me, knowing that this group

Reality check

won’t educate itself anytime soon.

After his confrontation with Amsterdam’s drug culture,

The Amsterdam municipality is doing its best, but you

my New Yorker friend soon realized that drugs in our

can tell that they’re still trying to identify the different

city are as commonplace as Bud Lights back home. The

groups and aren’t sure how to tackle certain issues.

guy we were talking to earlier showed him his phone:

Demonizing drugs used by many millennials makes no

on the screen a WhatsApp conversation with his dealer.

sense and it is not an appropriate approach for public

“Just ask what he has to offer, and he’ll show you the

health. First, we have to deal with the misconceptions of

current prices,” the guy explained. As liberal as New

normalization. Secondly, we have to target and inform

York might be, my friend surely had never heard of

the naïve group of millennials with more precision.

such a service as the one he was just introduced to.

Only then can we close the gap, turn the ignorant

People are always going to take drugs. The difference

majority into a minority and embrace normalization. ¢

with this generation, however, is that normalization has AMSTERDAM

SUSTAINABILITY

Wining, Dining, and Isling: Sustainability on Vuurtoreneiland If you’re looking for a unique, sustainable city escape, you’ll find all of that and more at Vuurtoreneiland.

Formerly part of Amsterdam’s old defense line, the island is slowly turning into a leading example for a sustainable and circular restaurant industry.

Words by ROBYN COLLINGE Pictures by NICOLE FRANZEN

AMSTERDAM

“We wanted to make the island accessible, so people could experience it, without overexploiting the space.�

SUSTAINABILITY

When it comes to sustainability, Amsterdam is often

ence, there’s one spot that has, quite literally, pushed

considered a step ahead of the majority of its European

the boat out.

neighbors. The city essentially runs on pedal power, not forgetting all those windmills, plus the government

A beacon of hope

recently announced an initiative to have the whole city

Situated on Lake Markermeer near Durgerdam, a small

using electric cars by 2025.

village north of Amsterdam, Vuurtoreneiland is an islet

Sustainable projects are cropping up left, right, and

about the size of two soccer fields upon which you can

center. From TreeWiFi, the birdhouse tracking devices

find the city’s only lighthouse.

that reward residents with free internet whenever the

Built in the 1700s, the lone lighthouse of Vuurtoren­

air in the vicinity is deemed ‘clean’ enough, to truly

eiland (which literally translates to Lighthouse Island)

innovative 3D printing projects such as MX3D and the

actually has a surprisingly rich history. Starting out as a

remarkable 3D Print Canal House - yep, that’s exactly

welcome guide for ships that had taken on the infamous

what it sounds like.

East India Trading route, it played a fundamental role

But it doesn’t stop there. In what feels like a middle finger

in establishing Amsterdam’s Golden Age.

to industrialization, entrepreneurs are even repurposing

The 1800s then saw the island transformed into a

old and traditional buildings for the new economy. Just

military fort as part of the Stelling van Amsterdam

look at the former headquarters of Shell - a name that too

(Amsterdam’s Defense Line), an 80-mile ring made up

often crops up in the same sentence as pollution - which

of 42 forts around the city. To ensure these forts could

has been converted into the majestic A’DAM Tower,

be easily flooded in times of war, a legislation was put

while its Research Lab has transformed into a co-working

in place stating that no houses could be built within a

space for creative and technological start-ups.

2-mile radius. As a result, a quaint circle of green still remains around the city limits.

Changing the way we eat

Brian Boswijk explains that Vuurtoreneiland was then

However, with so many entrepreneurs fighting to prove

bought from the Defense by the Staatsbosbeheer (State

themselves as innovators in their field, is the city of

Forestry Council), who wished to open the island to

Amsterdam forgetting about the basics?

the public. In order to do so, the SFC wanted to partner

Take a look at the food industry, for example. A recent

with a local entrepreneur who could help restore the

study unveiled that the average Dutch consumer throws

fort - which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site

away roughly 47 kilos of food each year, which amounts

- and attract visitors. What’s more, they wanted to

to €2.5 billion worth of waste.

achieve the two goals without disrupting the natural

A few small businesses have already set out to make a

environment of the area.

change. There’s initiatives like Taste Before You Waste

Brian was just the entrepreneur they needed, and

and Instock, who transform unwanted supermarket

together with business partner Sander Overeinder, he

goods into creative and delicious meals. Kromkommer

presented a sustainable concept to the SFC that fit the

is another notable brand, whose range of delicious

bill perfectly. Brian explains: “Our idea for the place

soups were born out of a crowdfunding campaign

was a small, intimate restaurant. We came to this idea

to enable the use of fruit and vegetables that would

because we wanted to dig into the spirit of the place…

ordinarily be cast aside because of their unusual shapes.

We wanted to make the island accessible, so people

However, when it comes to the whole dining experi-

could experience it, without overexploiting the space.”

AMSTERDAM

SUSTAINABILITY

The island experience

feed, it’s not the way to go for the future. We can’t sustain

Nowadays, guests of Vuurtoreneiland begin their

our ‘normal’ restaurant food habits such as big steaks and

adventure by boarding a chartered boat in Amsterdam

salmon fillets. It’s not going to work out for our children.

with a selection of indulgent local delicacies to nibble

So, we have to change that and rediscover our taste, and

on as they make the hour-long journey across the water.

that’s what we’re trying to do. It’s quite simple to point the

Upon arrival at the island, there’s the chance to explore

finger towards where you want to go but it’s a lot of hard

before settling into the seasonal restaurant for the main

work to get those tastes and qualities just right.”

event - the evening meal.

Since starting out in 2013, Brian tells me he and Sander

Cooking on Vuurtoreneiland is done with passion and

have been incredibly lucky - the phrase all extremely

care. It’s about tradition, nature, culture, and sustain-

hard workers tend to coin - and since the opening

ability. Dishes are prepared with artisan tech­niques

weeks, trips to the restaurant have consistently sold

- from pickling and fermentation to smoking over an

out. Reflecting on this, Brian explains: “It’s a wonderful

open, wood-burning fire - and the chefs’ head-to-tail

place. It’s unique in Holland. You can do all the interior

way of working ensures not only a diverse menu but

decorating you want but you’re never going to find a

also minimal waste. Ingredients are sourced from local,

restaurant with such an amazing horizon. And that’s a

independent suppliers who share the same vision and

major success factor.”

passion for what real food should be.

After making a name for the island with a summer

Brian elaborates, “We can’t put everything into livestock

restaurant which lies inside a bright, glass greenhouse

AMSTERDAM

SUSTAINABILITY

(open from May to September), last year Brian and Sander set about restoring further aspects of the fort to create what is now the winter location. However, there have been some challenges along the way.

The seasons are a hard element to control, particularly when access to the island means crossing a large body of water. Brian notes that boats and storms often are not a winning combination, but even that doesn’t falter his enthusiasm. He exclaims, “We’re very excited about winter on the island because it’s rough, the elements are in full force, the sounds are different - but it’s cozy and it’s dark and you can settle in by the fire.”

Maintaining a balance As Brian continues to nurture the growth of Vuurtoren­ eiland, there’s one element which must remain the same, and that’s sustainability. “We try to work towards a balance. Obviously we have to make money to buy groceries in order to make our food, but it’s important that we balance our business with our goals. It isn’t always easy, sometimes you have to compromise and take on a big wedding party, for example, but ultimately

make things work and you can stay true to your goals,

balance is the most important issue.”

your integrity, and your passions, yet still make a

This idea of a mindful balance doesn’t stop at Vuur­

reasonable living for yourself. This is what we’re trying

toren­eiland’s approach to food. In fact, the whole island

to do with the island. It’s about showing a place to

is practically self-sustaining, almost a necessity for

Amsterdam and making it accessible to the public and,

such a remote place.

most importantly, keeping it alive.”

Taking wind, air and sun as their main ingredients,

“Being full as a restaurant is wonderful but it’s also a

multidisciplinary organization Arup - who rose to

big trap, people work hard to get a ticket so they come

fame thanks to their structural design of the Sydney

with expectations that are quite impossible. The only

Opera House - worked hard to make the island as self-

way to break that down is to be genuine in what you do,

sufficient as possible. The only exception is the island’s

to show your passion and to have fun with what you’re

electricity supply, which is collected at the neighboring

doing.”

wind energy corporation.

Modesty aside, it certainly seems like Brian is doing

The island and its surrounding environment may

something right. The light in the lighthouse has been

coexist in harmony, but that relationship does rely

burning for 300 years and it doesn’t show any signs of

on people like Brian, who can continue to bring in a

going out soon.

revenue stream. He summarizes:

So, grab your life jacket, we’re going out for dinner. ¢

“I believe there is a sweet spot where you can really

vuurtoreneiland.nl

AMSTERDAM

LOCAL HEROES

Amsterdam Underground Imagine a dark and dreary Amsterdam Chinatown in the mid ‘90s. Red lights are being reflected in puddles, you’re running out of high and are desperately looking for a street prostitute to hook you up with a dealer in charge of the best dope in town. This used to be the life of Richard, one of the Amsterdam Underground tour guides.

Words by MIO VAN DER MEI Pictures by ZICO O’NEILL

Regenboog Groep (The Rainbow Group), a foundation

It can be difficult for people who have been stigmatized for years to find a job or other types of security. How do you help them grow and develop?

that helps locals living in poverty or experiencing social

Freek: They’ve always been treated like shit and had to

disconnectedness through various projects.

fight for themselves while living on the streets. We see

Tour guide Richard used to be one of these locals, but

them, and I mean really see them as full and individual

before we continue diving into his story, let’s hear from

people. We don’t pamper them but instead empower

Freek - project leader of Amsterdam Underground –

them by handing them the right tools. If not through

about what this initiative is all about.

Amsterdam Underground, may it be through one of

Amsterdam Underground offers unique city tours led by former homeless men and women, ex-drug addicts and former prostitutes. This nonprofit initiative is part of De

Hi Freek, we salute your work, it’s an awesome concept. What’s the main idea behind Amsterdam Underground?

our other initiatives. But for Amsterdam Underground specifically we train them to become storytellers and teach them how to guide an audience through the city like it’s a movie. Not everyone is fit to become a guide,

Freek: It was a successful concept that already existed

the person has to be enthusiastic about it and be able

in Utrecht, and De Regenboog Groep franchised it. The

to handle telling his or her story over and over again.

idea is to turn the negative (hi)story of (ex) homeless

One of our first guides, ex-prostitute Sonja, was very

people, prostitutes and drug addicts into a positive

insecure and didn’t believe much in herself. Today

thing, and give them a sense of self-worth. It’s not

she’s one of our most requested guides and she’s in

always easy for them to talk about a past they’re not

charge of training the newbies. She has a paid position

proud of, and sometimes it can get quite emotional. But

in our office now.

the idea is that people who feel distanced from ‘normal’ society and from the labor market gain a positive daytime activity and are even getting paid for it.

AMSTERDAM

LOCAL HEROES

Richard: Sure, it actually started right here at the Casablanca. In 1989 I was a student jazz musician at the Conservatory, and I played my first gigs on the drums here. I had always been a curious guy who wanted to experience everything in life, all the sex, drugs, and rock and roll. After work I would hit up a bar and before heading home I would score dope on the Zeedijk. I was 20 years old and had enough money.

But when I reached the point where I had to score three times a day I started losing my grip on life. Despite the drug abuse, I graduated with a 9 at Bimhuis and played in various jazz bands that are now world famous in the jazz scene. Heroine got the best of me and I would get caught using dope in the toilet by my band members and got kicked out of the bands. I was heavily addicted for 20 years and this neighborhood became my second home. I was never entirely homeless, because I had an

What can people expect from an Amsterdam Underground tour?

apartment which I would sublet to pay for my addiction.

I would be on the streets for weeks and then go back to

Freek: We have nine guides, each with a unique and gripping story. The tour lasts 90 minutes and we want

my apartment.

Homeless people are generally extroverts because they

You’ve been clean for nine years now and you are off the streets. How does it feel to give a tour about your former life as an on and off homeless addict?

earn money through begging and hassling, and that’s

Richard: It depends on my mood, sometimes I wake

a trait the guides often still possess. It’s not just sad

up and I don’t want to be thinking about my old life.

stories but also a lot of laughter and fun. It’s a unique

And it’s not always easy to tell people about the parts

people to feel free to be able to ask anything without restriction! We don’t judge people or tell them “don’t do drugs, stay in school”, we just want to inform them.

way of getting to know another side of Amsterdam.

With a good understanding of what Amsterdam Under­ ground stands for, let’s hear from Richard about what it’s like to go from drug addict to city guide. We met Richard in Chinatown on a sunny October afternoon in front of jazz club Casablanca.

Hi Richard, we’re excited to meet you.

Can you show us a glimpse of your former life as a cocaine and heroin addict?

“We don’t judge people or tell them don’t do drugs, stay in school, we just want to inform them.”

AMSTERDAM

of my life that I’m not proud of. It can get emotional; I

Now only one quarter of the windows are being used

never know what questions to expect. But it’s also a lot

for prostitution, the rest are used by fashion designers

of fun and a lot of laughter, I never feel judged by my

or other young hip ventures. The street prostitutes are

audience and in a way it’s also therapeutic. I want them

gone.

to know that you’re not marked for life. You can kick an addiction!

Does this mean the red-light district also got rid of its drug dealers?

The red-light district is quite the tourist attraction now, but I can imagine the streets looked different in the early ‘90s.

How has the neighborhood changed?

Richard: The drug scene is definitely still here, but it’s

Richard: This area used to be completely different!

‘pill bridge’; you could get any type of drugs without

Tourists weren’t safe here, and would certainly be

a doctor’s prescription there. It was very much ‘nous

mugged. There was a big trade in passports as a result. It

connais’. Street dealers are still around but they’re

was full of street dealers, street prostitutes, junkies and

mostly focusing on tourists. As you might know, last

squatters. Street prostitutes and window prostitutes

year a couple of tourists died because they bought white

would get into nasty fights. It used to be grimy but

heroin thinking it was cocaine from a street dealer.

more hidden and spread out. Back then we didn’t have cell phones, now you order your drugs like you order a pizza. The Varkenssluis Bridge used to be called the

there was also a sense of romance, the red lights, small streets, the anonymity.

AMSTERDAM

“It’s not always easy to tell people about the parts of my life that I’m not proud of.

It can get emotional; I never know what questions to expect.”

I remember seeing homeless people using heroin in public as a kid, and HIV was a big problem at that time. Amsterdam seems mostly free of these issues now, and you don’t see nearly as many homeless people on the streets here as you do in other cities around the world. How come?

Enough about your old life, I’d love to know about your current life!

Richard: Yes, a lot of people died from AIDS and Hepa­

and kids. Please come see me play!

titis C in the ‘90s, and luckily that number has drop­ped

Richard: Jazz music and drumming are what kept me alive and I’m proud to call it my job again. I sometimes play at the Cotton Club, one of the oldest jazz bars in town. But I also teach drumming lessons to both adults

with clean needles at some facilities. HIV and Hepatitis

Thank you Freek and Richard for your openness, we wish you all the best!

C are almost completely gone, and people get good

You can book an Amsterdam Underground tour on

medical and psychological treatments. Amsterdam has

their website, or check out De Regenboog Groep for

a lot of good facilities for the homeless and for drug

more information on their projects. ¢

addicts. The city already started taking care of the

amsterdamunderground.org deregenboog.org

dramatically. Drug addicts can safely shoot up heroine

homeless back in the ‘70s My dad was a social worker so I was pretty familiar with it. But the amount of shelters and projects started growing even more. There’s a

For the music lovers among us check out Richard’s

shelter in every neighborhood in town. Amsterdam is

website to book drumming classes.

good for its ‘ragtags’ and that’s pretty unique.

drumlesbijrichard.nl

AMSTERDAM

Where to find the best sandwich in town?

@amsterdam_madebypeople – Sandwich at home with hagelslag (chocolate sprinkles), Dutch cheese by Mio

@berlin_madebypeople - Best toasti in town at Cafe Frida by Juliane

@chicago_madebypeople - Avocado Toast with Ham & Swiss at TrueNorth by Touly

@madrid_madebypeople - Bocadillo de jamĂłn serrano - Taberna Madrid Madriz by Marta

@melbourne_madebypeople - A roast vegetable toasted sandwich from Gutz, Fitzroy by Sarah

@seattle_madebypeople - Caribbean Roast sandwich from Paseo in Fremont, Seattle by Julie

@vancouver_madebypeople - Meat & Bread features a daily menu of only four sandwiches by Melissa

@bucharest_madebypeople - Burger from a very authentic butcher shop named La Pravalescu by Alexa

@minneapolis_madebypeople - JuicyLucy (Cheese inside the meat patty) by Waqar

#acitymadebypeople

@tokyo_madebypeople – From sandwich house merchen in Shibuya by Mana

Founding Friends We all need friends to bring us further in life.

Therefore we have teamed up with like-minded inspiring initiatives. Brands that support our collective intention, who breathe city life and culture, and have ‘people’ as one of their main core values. We feel both lucky and humbled to have these great founding friends on board in making our journal a reality. Thank you!

Maeandmany/Margot van der Krogt

FOUNDING FRIENDS

Let’s redefine how work is done Originating in Amsterdam, Spaces was built on the

and imagineers. We’ve created workspaces that

idea that success builds more success. We’ve cultivated

suit your every need. So you can focus on your next

a community of members who are thinkers, achievers

big idea.

spacesworks.com

FOUNDING FRIENDS

Your favourite bag for everyday life We think the nicest thing in the world is leather. Soft,

In our atelier in Amsterdam we design bags for everyday

supple leather, in exactly the right color. A pretty bag in

life. Big enough for your daily essentials. A simple,

that leather. That’s the best.

no-nonsense design that matches with all your outfits.

We found out that designer brands, say CĂŠline, are very

Do you want us to make a bag designed by you? Make

picky and mind a scratch. We just cut around the scratch.

an appointment with Margriet and she will make your

In that way we can make very practical, simple bags in

favourite bag. Do you want to learn how to make your

this special, supple, slick leather. Bags that grow more

own bag? Check out the workshops in our atelier.

and more beautiful over the years.

monsak.nl

FOUNDING FRIENDS

Every purchase has a purpose While traveling in Argentina in 2006, TOMS Founder

In keeping with the One for One速 promise, purchases of

Blake Mycoskie witnessed the hardships faced by

these products help improve the lives of people in need

children growing up without shoes. Wanting to help, he

by helping restore sight, providing safe water, support

started TOMS, a company that would match every pair

safe birth for mothers and stop bullying through

of shoes purchased with a new pair of shoes for a child

prevention and response services.

in need. One for One速. What began as a simple idea has evolved into a powerful business model. Realizing

TOMS is in business to improve lives. With every

that One for One速 could serve other basic needs, TOMS

product you purchase, TOMS will help a person in need.

launched other products including TOMS Eyewear in

One for One速

2011, TOMS Roasting Co. in 2014, and TOMS Bags and TOMS Local Backpack Collection in 2015.

TOMS.com

Taiga Kato

FOUNDING FRIENDS

How does your brand add value to cities?

We are a creative community helping brands understand

switching off from. Partnering with brands to help

their city role and become culturally relevant. Through our

shape their contribution in a city setting and involving

international network of creative citizens we help brands

the people that create the culture, our services include:

understand where they can add value at a local level to

- brand strategy and “city role� conceptualising

ease acceptance into communities and build stronger

- local insights and trends

relationships with people. We call this social context.

- creative content production

We understand the heartbeat of our cities. This enables

- experience design

us to provide insights for brands and collaborate on

So. Don’t force your brand upon a community or city.

experiences and activities that build community

Instead ask, the question:

without the intrusive message overkill that people are

How does my brand contribute and add value to cities?

creativecityworks.com

FOUNDING FRIENDS

Enjoying the charm of Lisbon A group of apartments located at the heart of Lisbon’s

our glasses by Deposito da Marinha Grande, our plates

historical district and the perfect place to stay if you

and cups by Bordallo Pinheiro, our handcraft rugs from

want to fully enjoy the charm of Lisbon.

Alentejo and handcraft blankets originating from Serra

Following a thorough refurbishing process by José

da Estrela being, the shower gel and hand’s gel is from

Adrião Architects, this 18th century building, erected

Castelbel and our linen from Helena Lavores.

after Lisbon’s 1755 devastating earthquake, opens the

Each apartment is named after a Lisbon garden

doors now to travellers from all over the world.

which inspires its interior design, provided by Juan de

Your travelling experience will be enhanced by the

Mayoralgo y Javier Carrasco.

homey atmosphere of these apartments whose delicate interior design, almost unnoticeable, includes

We’re looking forward to be welcoming you at BAIXA

numerous Portuguese brands and handicrafts, such as

HOUSE. Obrigado!

baixahouse.com

FOUNDING FRIENDS

The world is full of choices We’ve all made bad decisions in our lives. From fashion

The idea of MirrorMirror is simple – Upload two pictures

mistakes to lifestyle choices, daily life is a minefield of

and ask the community to vote on which they prefer.

potential mistakes.

Your followers then vote with just a single swipe, giving

Amsterdam’s MirrorMirror app takes the pressure out

instant and honest preferences and a definitive result.

of (and inserts the fun into) dilemmas, by letting you

Having already been nominated for two awards and

compare any choices and putting the decisions in the

established a community of users from around the world,

hands of the people you trust most – your friends.

it’s fair to say MirrorMirror has a big future ahead of it.

askmirrormirror.com

Join our community of city enthusiasts‌ acitymadebypeople.com facebook.com/acitymadebypeople twitter.com/citinerary instagram.com/acitymadebypeople And keep an eye out for our local speaker events in various cities across our network.

ENJOY!

ACITYMADEBYPEOPLE.COM