A City Made By People Journal Issue 1

A Journal on City Life & Culture Amsterdam / Minneapolis / Bucharest / Madrid / Rotterdam

ISSUE 1

CITINERARY.NET

Citinerary | A City Made By People | Issue 1 ISSN 2468-4732 Published in Amsterdam, May 2016

Founder & Publisher Robin Cox Design

Claudia de Haas Frederique Matti Daniël van der Winden

Editor

Deepa Paul

Contributing editors

Shoshannah Hausmann Angel Trinidad Katherine Brooks

City captains

Mio van der Mei (Amsterdam) Alexa Sferle (Bucharest) Rita Farmer & Colleen Eversman (Minneapolis) Adrián Cano Franco, Marta Cerezo Marta Aguilar Cerezo & Olga Kotnowska (Madrid) Wouter Vocke (Rotterdam)

Cover page Photographer

Marta Aguilar Cerezo Adrián Cano Franco Erea Azurmendi

Print producer

Tim Beijer Producties

Printer

Offset Printing House KOPA M.K. Čiurlionio str. 82A, LT-03100 Vilnius, Lithuania

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Kevin Rijnders

CONTENTS

6 Welcome

8

AMSTERDAM

10

How Amsterdam emerged on the European coffee scene

16

Urban renewal in the heart of Amsterdam

20

Local Heroes: Henk “Hanky Panky” Schiffmacher

26

Sharing inspiring life stories with strangers on the metro

32

Stars rising in the East

40

MINNEAPOLIS

42

Local Heroes: Dangerous Man Brewing Company

48

Central Avenue: Local gems revitalized

52

Capturing the power of womanhood

58

Reimagining the dinner club

62

Artisanal coffee houses in Minneapolis

68

Purple city: A tribute to Prince

70 BUCHAREST 72

Living in the European capital of asymmetry

78

Classical music on the subway

82

Local Heroes: Alex Gâlmeanu and Muzeul de Fotografie

88

Contemporary design meets Romanian tradition

92

Children of the revolution

CONTENTS

98

MADRID

100

Sweet surprises from the strange new kids on the block

106

Breathing new life into the city

110

Local Heroes: Boa Mistura

116

Madrid’s secret sea

122

A home for lovers of art, books, and coffee

128

ROTTERDAM

130

An old city with a new heart

134

At home in Moderndam

140

Rediscovering Kralingse Plas

144

Local Heroes: Marloes de Vries

153

Founding Friends

158

Are you a #cityenthusiast?

162

Instagrammers capture the beauty of cities

Kevin Rijnders

WELCOME

Several years ago, I asked myself: how come most people don’t know much about their own city?

Or even other cities? Why do we like it here and what makes us stay?

Whether we’re home or change our scenery once in a

to go out there and observe, capture, show and share,

while: what is it we want to explore and what is it we

using this network as a tool to share valuable stories

want to learn? Something I often quote when explaining

on city life and culture; but to also, with collections of

my vision, is that our current way of experiencing a city

stories, to create a context of understanding on why

is just like a onenightstand. We get in, take it all in,

they love their city and how it’s developing.

leave, and never call back.

Therefore, we’re extremely proud, moving forward We tend to be after things, constantly consuming,

from an online magazine and hosting local speaker

asking ourselves: where can we eat, drink, sleep, shop

events, to finally bring you the best stories of our cities

and party? But why don’t we ask ourselves how people

to your doorstep via print.

live in these cities, how they move, what has changed and what has been trending over the years? What’s the

So whatever your blood type is, whether you’re a

less visible, real culture of a particular city?

fellow citizen, an expat or a traveller, let’s create these connections with like-minded citizens across the globe.

The answers to these questions can only be found through social context, through interaction with people

We hope you’ll enjoy all the people, places and stories

that give us a sense of belonging, a sense of acceptance

from our cities in this first issue of A City Made By

and direction.

People. And we hope you’ll feel inspired to join us in this exciting journey.

And it’s those people, citizens, who make us feel at home, knowing how to move and behave… it’s people

With kind regards,

who create their city, every single day.

Robin Cox City Enthusiast Officer (CEO)

It was that moment I started shaping a network of citizens, a like-minded and committed collective of city correspondents. Curious and excited citizens who like

7

Nicole Blommers

9

WELKOM

Amsterdam With much more in mind about Amsterdam than coffee shops, Dutch cheese and ladies of the night, let’s peel off the layers and soak up impressions of the city through the eyes of the locals. With its tiny houses, canals, and lively streets, the city draws the most beautiful surroundings. Traditional old buildings are combined with a new, thriving creative scene.

Walking through Amsterdam never feels like walking through a big city. It is our urban village.

MEET THE TEAM

Glynis Kromopawiro

Hannah FĂźllenkemper

Ioanna Kyrtatou

Nicole Blommers

Sarah Napier

Mio van der Mei

Nicole Franzen

COFFEE

How Amsterdam emerged on the European coffee scene What’s brewing in Amsterdam? Something fresh, bold and exciting. It seems Amsterdammers are finally waking up and smelling the coffee.

Words by SARAH NAPIER & GLYNIS KROMOPAWIRO

Only one nation in the world averages more than two

Local coffee entrepreneurs unanimously give props to

cups of coffee per person per day: the Netherlands.

larger establishments for kick-starting the movement

According to a survey published by The Atlantic in

as early as 1996, and for constantly diversifying to

2014, the Dutch consume more coffee than the United

keep up with current trends. Nicolas Castagno, award-

States, United Kingdom, Spain and France combined.

winning barista at Scandinavian Embassy, points out that “it’s often the ‘rebellious children’ of those big

Dutch coffee must be good then, right? Not if you asked

establishments who become the new kids on the block,

caffeine-seeking expats and self-proclaimed coffee snobs

exploding the scene with their small cafés, big ideas

in Amsterdam…until recently. Previously known for

and passionate spirits.”

prizing quantity over quality, Amsterdam has well and truly arrived on the third wave coffee scene. The city now

Two of those rebels went on to establish Headfirst

boasts an expanding list of excellent cafés and roasteries

Coffee Roasters, the revered and now, sadly, closed

treating locals to some fantastic specialty coffee.

coffee bar and roastery. I can assure you the closure had nothing to do with the quality of their coffee or a lack of

Amsterdam’s scene is relatively new when compared

popularity, but boy, was it great while it lasted. Jonatan

to strongholds of the specialty coffee movement such

Scheeper and Lex Wenneker both started out at one of

as Australia, New Zealand, Scandinavia, Canada and

those early adapters. “Places like Espressofabriek and

the US. Lot Sixty One’s Adam Craig, however, finds

Screaming Beans started the specialty coffee scene here

Amsterdam “a whole different ball game” compared to

in Amsterdam. But in my opinion the Coffee Company

where he used to run his coffee business: New York City.

was really important for the growth of the scene,” says Jonatan.

There, “you’ve got office buildings everywhere. I think I had more people living above my shop than I have in this whole

Jonatan now works for Single Estate Coffee Roasters

neighborhood,” says Adam, pointing to the surroundings

as a roaster and barista trainer, while Lex was recently

of his Kinkerstraat shop. The amount of coffee he sells in

crowned Dutch Barista Champion 2016 for the second

Amsterdam is much lower than the hundred or more kilos

year running. These boys will be featuring on the

he could sell in one Big Apple week. “But I enjoy it a bit

Amsterdam coffee circuit for a while to come.

more here, I get to be closer to the product, the craft.”

AMSTERDAM

11

on a hazy morning

Scandinavian Embassy

COFFEE

“The Dutch capital continues to impress with a growing number of high quality artisanal coffee roasters.”

the food offering of a small café beyond the usual smattering of cakes and croissants, with Scandinavian style coffee to complete the experience. Renowned coffee blog Sprudge was so excited by what these guys served up on a recent visit that they boldly posed the question, “Is this coffee’s first Michelin star?” in an article that sent coffee scenesters reeling.

Is this a glimpse of what to expect in the coming years?

Jonatan says, “I think that we are moving towards a

The opening of Coffee Company in 1996 was a turning

scene like you would find in Portland or San Franscisco,

point in Amsterdam’s coffee culture. At a time when no

where every neighborhood has a couple of micro-

Starbucks (or similar coffee chains) were to be found,

roasteries. There will be even more appreciation for

there came a casual place for young people to meet for

good coffee and people will understand that coffee is

a coffee, people who had never before been lured by the

not just coffee. Also the coffee they drink at home will

taste of java. Coffee became cool.

be better; higher quality beans, better quality roast, freshly ground and brewed to perfection.”

Jasper Uhlenbusch remembers the time before he joined the Coffee Company bandwagon in 2008.

Alex Kitain, the coffee connoisseur responsible for

“Basically, there was just the standard continental

the go-to blog The Coffeevine, has the final word. “In

coffee. In contrast to the UK and the US, in Europe,

the last three years, Amsterdam went from being the

including the Netherlands, there were already cafés

insider’s underdog with only a handful of specialty

where you could drink a cappuccino or an espresso.” So

coffee places to a prominent star on the European

the new Dutch coffee bar had to up the game.

coffee scene. It’s quite remarkable actually considering the city’s relatively small size, but the Dutch capital

Then consumers had to adapt to a cuppa with flavors

continues to impress with a growing number of high

beyond the familiar strong, dark and bitter. “The locals

quality artisanal coffee roasters and specialty coffee

are getting it more and more,” says Jonatan, “but it

entrepreneurs who are combining coffee with other

is going to take time to recover from a long history of

products like fashion, music and excellent food. I expect

shitty coffee.”

to see more of these concept stores in the near future.”

As Amsterdammers become more discerning about

It looks like the future of coffee in Amsterdam is

food and drink in general, the demand for good quality

bright—and complex with a pleasant aftertaste.

coffee also increases. The new wave of entrepreneurial café owners, baristas and roasters serving a new breed

Thanks to Jonatan Scheeper, Lex Wenneker, Nicolas

of coffee-loving customers are catering to just that.

Castagno, Adam Craig, Jasper Uhlenbusch, and Adam Kitain for sharing a brew with us. ¢

At Scandinavian Embassy, barista Nicolas and chef Rikard Andersson take it one step further, elevating

AMSTERDAM

13

Nicole Franzen

on a hazy morning

on a hazy morning

The Coffeevine

on a hazy morning

16

ARCHITECTURE

Urban renewal in the heart of Amsterdam Tucked into the heart of Amsterdam, the colorful Wijdesteeg was a true paradise for street art. Every day this alley attracted dozens of tourists and locals who want to see and experience it.

Words & pictures by NICOLE BLOMMERS

The Wijdesteeg is part of the so-called Tabakspanden

the past 30 years. Some of these owners were known

(tobacco buildings) that faced eviction in March of

as notorious local criminals. Seven years ago, the

2015. Is the eviction of the Tabakspanden a sign of

Slangenpand residents found out about their new

gentrification in one of the most distinctive parts of

landlord in the newspaper: housing association De

Amsterdam’s historic city center?

Key. Possibly a good sign of things to come, as De Key is known for offering low cost housing. Or was this a clue

The Tabakpanden’s rich history

pointing to major changes for these buildings?

The Tabakspanden have a very rich history. In the early

Then, the law changed: squatting was declared illegal.

1970s, the buildings were owned by Hendrik Tabak,

De Key presented their new plans for the Tabakspanden

an influential local businessman. In 1974, Mr. Tabak

on their website. Due to the poor condition of the

was attacked and robbed inside one of his buildings on

buildings, some of them were to be demolished while

the Spuistraat. He died a week later in the hospital as a

others would be renovated. This plan called for a total

result of his injuries. After his death, his buildings were

of 69 apartments and retail spaces. It became apparent

given the name ‘Tabakspanden’ (tobacco buildings).

that this unique area with its special history would soon

One of the buildings that became known as the

become like any other neighborhood in Amsterdam.

Slangenpand (snake building) stayed empty for years until it became a squatter’s paradise in the early 1980s. The

Alternative culture and street art

Slangenpand was taken over by a squatter named Jacques

The municipality of Amsterdam has always had

on 6 March 1983, and he lived there until the eviction of

difficulties with this part of the city center. They never

the buildings in 2015. Jacques says he has always found this

seemed to have full control over it. Over the years,

part of Amsterdam quite charming. “It is such a difference

the Wijdesteeg and adjacent Spuistraat have come

from the nearby Palace on Dam Square. You can see it as

to possess a distinctive character. What makes it so

a symbol of free thinking and tolerance in Amsterdam.”

different? Most people visited the area because of its abundant street art. There was always something being

Changing hands: a new owner

organized, such as a gallery show at Peter Klashorst

Over three decades after the first squatter moved in,

Gallery or an alternative movie night at De Slang.

most of these buildings were officially being squatted.

Before the anti-squatting law came into force,

The Tabakspanden have had eight different owners in

Slangenpand residents had actually been working

AMSTERDAM

18

TYPE ARTIKEL/ARTIKEL NAAM

together with the municipality to make the area even

Klashorst lived in the building two months after he

more attractive. Art markets were being organized,

received a notice of eviction.

and galleries and workspaces opened to artists and

The Spuistraat Association was also established to

visitors. The municipality of Amsterdam even provided

support Tabakspanden residents and stand up for the

subsidies to De Slang’s artists and entrepreneurs.

history and culture of the Spuistraat. Spuistraat has

The special attributes of the Tabakspanden created a

an important commercial value, as many tourists and

unique tourist attraction that proved excellent for city

shoppers walk along this street to get from Dam Square

marketing. If they become a dull grey building block,

to the Nine Streets. Art markets are well visited and the

this unique character will be lost forever.

Spuistraat has become a tourist attraction because of its special qualities and central location.

Residents don’t give up When walking past the Tabakspanden one Saturday, I

What’s next?

noticed “for sale” signs on the buildings. “The end is

Eventually the Tabakspanden residents left their homes

near”, was my first thought. Fortunately, this sign has

in March 2015. De Key started demolishing parts of

been put there by residents and squatters who have

the buildings and will renovate the other part. In the

formed Makelaar Tabak (real estate agent Tabak).

near future 69 apartments will arise there where it

Together, they called on the Mayor of Amsterdam

once was lively and colorful. Also 1600 square meters

not to proceed with eviction, but instead to demand

are available for business premises, of which 40%

that De Key clarify their plans for the future of the

is destined for creative and cultural features, with

Tabakspanden. De Key has been saying for years that

additional 36 parking spaces. Thanks to Mark from the

they will start building and renovating, but so far

Slangenpand for your time and stories. ¢

nothing has happened. For example, resident Peter

AMSTERDAM

LOCAL HEROES

Henk “Hanky Panky” Schiffmacher They call Henk Schiffmacher guru, godfather, or king of Amsterdam’s tattoo culture. One thing’s for sure: the tattoo artist known as Hanky Panky is a thoroughbred storyteller.

Words by MIO VAN DER MEI Pictures by KEVIN RIJNDERS

Tattoo artist Henk Schiffmaker’s fame extends past

isn’t really Amsterdam anymore. “The Amsterdammer”

the borders of Amsterdam. The 64 year-old artist has

is on the brink of extinction. Yuppies living in the Jordaan

tattooed A-list celebrities like Kurt Cobain, Lady Gaga

are always complaining and often out of humor.

and Robbie Williams, just to name a few. But he’s

I visited Henk’s shop in de Pijp to talk about the past

Speaking about youth culture, there seems to have been quite a shift in tattoo culture over the past years. It’s not just for Hell’s Angels, sailors and prostitutes anymore.

and present of Amsterdam’s tattoo scene, and more.

There used to be a big stigma about the tattoo scene

I sat down next to Henk during one of his tattoo sessions

here, and we worked hard to fight against it. Now, the

for a chat as photographer Kevin Rijnders captured this

stigma has been torn down for the most part—which

tattoo icon on camera.

is a good thing—yet on the flip side, it has also become

also a renowned painter, author and art collector. The common thread that runs through all of his artistic interests is storytelling.

You’re from a Catholic family from Harderwijk.

What made you come to Amsterdam?

less thrilling. What I mean to say is that there are a lot of people who get tattooed these days, but shouldn’t be because they couldn’t handle it.

The storytelling, the narrative of Amsterdammers.

Programs like Miami Ink have turned us into semi-

I enjoyed going to brown bars (traditional Dutch pubs)

psychiatrists. People have started making up reasons to

where I ran into the most interesting personalities you

get a tattoo. Like, I’m in a new phase of my life. Or, this

can imagine. They had the greatest stories to tell. These

one’s for my miscarriage.

cafes had a big social function to me.

I’m not saying that it’s nonsense, because it’s very

Do these brown bars still play a big part of your life?

human. But it’s almost as if people feel obligated to get a tattoo with an emotionally attached story to it and

These type of brown bars are slowly disappearing,

then explain all the details to you. You’re not yourself

because of the no-smoking law and because everyone’s

when you’re emotional, and sometimes I have to turn

chasing this “boom boom boom” youth culture. As far

people away and let them first think things through.

as I’m concerned, the social function which bars and

Tattoo artists weren’t used to getting everyone’s

cafés have these days is spreading STDs. They’re filled

misery poured over us, and frankly, sometimes it’s a bit

with windbags who just squall stories that are bullshit.

too much.

I don’t mean to sound like a sourpuss, but Amsterdam

AMSTERDAM

21

“Programs like Miami Ink have turned us into semipsychiatrists.�

LOCAL HEROES

You’re a walking encyclopedia when it comes to tattoo history. What is the role of tattoos in Amsterdam’s history?

Well, of course tattoos have a communicative function; you want to tell a story. If it doesn’t communicate something, it’s not right. It was kind of like entering a Catholic church. The story and symbolism of Jesus Christ was interwoven into the architecture; church

“Here, you would often get your first tattoo for your mom, so she wouldn’t beat the shit of you for getting one.”

buildings were kind of like comic books. It’s the same way with tattooed bodies. You have to remember that many people were illiterate back in the days.

loved ones. The donor law is in progress as we speak

But tattoos have never played as big of a role here as it

and I’m positive we can pull it off.

has done for other cultures—Samoans for example. In

I have about 115 tattoos but the tattoo on my hand,

those cultures, you could trace back who you are, who

for example, is Samoan and it’s a tattoo against

your parents were and where they came from. It’s kind

rheumatism. This one’s very special to me. It would

of like the Old Testament.

be cool if my hand could stick out of the ground when I

Here, you would often get your first tattoo for your mom,

get buried [laughing]. Or if I could keep it preserved for

so she wouldn’t beat the shit of you for getting one.

my children.

You’re a huge collector of anything related to tattoos. You even owned the largest tattoo museum in the world, which unfortunately had to close down. Are you planning to do something else with your collection?

You don’t look like you’re going to retire any time soon. What other plans can we expect from you in the future?

Parts of my collection are traveling around to various

the stories behind my own tattoos—fun stories as well

museums across the world, from Japan to Germany.

as sad ones—and who made them. It’s kind of like my

But eventually, I do want to do something with my

personal tattoo poetry album for the public.

collection. We’re continually looking for collaborations

I also want to visit our army troops in Afghanistan and

with other collectors and thinking about opening one

Mali, and tattoo them. If the Defense Ministry can

big tattoo museum together.

bring (Dutch folk singer) Jantje Smit to come sing for

You’re also working on a donor law that allows people to leave behind a piece of tattooed skin to their loved ones.

I released a book last year entitled Getekend Henk Schiffmacher (Signed, Henk Schiffmaker). It’s about

them, they can also bring us to tatt them up. Just like it used to be in the old days. I have so many ideas running through my mind. Who knows what else will happen? ¢

tattooing.nl

In the first place, I wanted to get that fixed for myself because my tattoos are part of my collection. Then I thought, well, maybe there are more people who want to leave behind a part of their tattooed skin to their

AMSTERDAM

25

26

SOCIAL

Sharing inspiring life stories with strangers on the metro Did you ever step onto a metro train simply to have a meaningful conversation? A new initiative in Amsterdam shows us how it’s done.

You may have had interesting, engaging, inspiring conversations whilst in transit, purely by chance.

Amsterdam-based project Ondergronds (underground) challenges city dwellers to converse with strangers—anywhere and anytime.

Words by GLYNIS KROMOPAWIRO Pictures by COCO OLAKUNLE PLOOIJER

AMSTERDAM

28

Manon Veldhuis and Julien Thomas established Ondergronds to connect people and encourage them to engage in conversation while in transit. The program matches users who ride the metro from Wibautstraat to Central Station and back. While in transit, meaningful conversation ensues.

I spoke with Manon and Julien, in true Ondergronds style, on a moving metro train.

What is Ondergronds about?

Manon: The project is about connection. It’s about forming connections that didn’t exist before. It’s about the people you don’t yet know. It’s about diversity of people and opinions. It’s about everything that’s different from what you know.

Julien: Okay, here we are on the metro right now. There are six or seven people around us. They’re probably curious about what’s we’re doing with this microphone.

Perhaps this scene looks odd to them. It can also seem odd to sit down next to someone you don’t know and start chatting.

So, how do you make that conversation or connection happen?

Manon: We offer it directly. Featured on our website are the seniors who are participating in this project.

Their details are presented like a metro map, which gives users a brief idea of who they are, where they come from and what their lives have looked like.

Users sign up for a time slot. At the Volkshotel, you receive an envelope with more information that will also

“She looks like a very typical grandmother.

But when she opens her mouth, she is a smartass.”

“What do ‘young’ and ‘old’ mean?

Some people have lived for many years, but still feel young.”

SOCIAL

help you prepare for the conversation. We encourage all participants to take a step back, be present, and think through conversation topics. Each participant then walks to the metro where he or she meets the senior.

Do I get to choose the senior I will speak with?

Manon: The senior you’ll speak with is a surprise. You’ll

“People always have common interests. It takes opening up to learn.”

learn more about your conversation partner when you confirm. We live by the motto that people have common

These small details about someone only come out

interests. It takes opening up to learn them.

after several minutes of chatting. You may think, “He doesn’t have much to say” or “He dwells in the past.”

What’s the next stop for Ondergronds?

One simple conversation with a senior can completely

Julien: We want to encourage the same model of

change your perception of others. You have to invest a

conversation in different formats and different groups.

bit, but you get a lot in return.

The main goal is to change the culture of the public is that conversations are happening and that we help

What do you get from having a conversation with someone twice your age?

improve the perception of conversing with strangers.

Manon: We’re not used to speaking with people about

space, starting with public transit. What matters most

the wisdom of life. We find these experiences are very

Why older people?

relevant right now. Especially for young people who

Julien: Initially, we asked ourselves, “What do ‘young’

have much to learn, why not learn from people who

and ‘old’ mean?” Some people have lived for many

have lived it already?

years, but still feel young. Some young people are wise

Thank you Manon and Julien for a great conversation

beyond their years. In order to determine what defined

in transit through Amsterdam. We’re looking forward

“senior,” we selected the arbitrary age of 65 years old.

to having our first conversation with one of the seniors

The conversations differ according to the senior’s age

soon. ¢

and background. Manon has tried to seek out seniors who

ondergronds.nl

are in the older age bracket because it’s less likely that youngsters will interact with octogenarians regularly.

What were your first impressions of the seniors you met?

Manon: There is one woman who looked like a very typical grandmother. When she opened her mouth, she was a smartass. One friendly older gentleman was in the war in Indonesia, and he knew everything about dancing.

AMSTERDAM

31

HOSPITALITY

Stars rising in the East The rise of Amsterdam Oost and the story of how three entrepreneurs used hospitality to change an entire neighborhood for the better.

Words by HANNAH FÜLLENKEMPER Pictures by ALAN DANIEL ARCHUTOWSKI

Anyone will tell you: Amsterdam Oost (East) wasn’t a

Seven years later, they have gone from strength to

place to take the kids. It was a backwater chock-full of

strength. We spoke to Riad Farhat, one-third of the

the sort of stores you didn’t feel anyone really wanted

Wise Men, about how it all started.

you to enter. Not anymore, though—not when so much places where you buy coffee that says something about

Who are the Three Wise Men of the East and how did you meet?

your personality.

I met Jason Berg in 1997. We used to work in a café

All that remains of the Oost of yesterday is an eagerness

called Café Elsa in Oost, which was owned by Piet van

to speak of it in the same breath as Berlin: a city

der Graaf. We worked there about 10 to 12 years, starting

symbol of cool rising out of ethnic stores and concrete.

off as busboys at 17 and moving up. The whole time we

Trouw, Amsterdam’s most convincing stab at a bit of

were getting an education without even knowing it. We

Berlin, has moved out; and Amsterdam’s most expensive

formalized this when we studied Hotel Management in

effort at being a bit of Berlin, the Volkshotel, has moved

The Hague and continued to work on the weekends.

of Oost has become about brunch, craft beers, and

in. The Student Hotel accommodates all the kids that

Then, when we got a bit older and started to think about

have flocked to the Wibautstraat (since when?),

our futures, we thought maybe it was time to start our

pretending they are in Berlin; a second building is set

own business. We loved what we did, so why not take

to open in early 2016.

it to the next level? We both did internships (me in

It wasn’t always like this. Amsterdam, already small,

Mumbai, Jason in Shanghai) and when we returned, we

used to be a lot smaller because of the fact no one ever

started talking about having our own bar.

really considered going further east than—perhaps— my boyfriend was looking to buy a house, Oost was

Café Maxwell on Beukenplein was your first stab at Oost, correct?

what Noord is now: cheap and far. Now, it’s the new

Yes. We opened Maxwell when we were 27—but it

frontier for any would-be café, bar, or shop owner.

wasn’t as easy as that. Our schooling was expensive and

But before we all got there, the Three Wise Men of

we both had a lot of debt. We’d found the spot in 2007

the East did. Jason Berg, Riad Farhat, and Piet van

but the bank wouldn’t finance us without collateral. So

der Graaf said, “Let us set up shop in Oost.” And it

we went back to our old mentor and employer, Piet, and

was good.

asked him for advice. Turns out he was up for a new

the start of the Wibautstraat. Even five years ago, when

AMSTERDAM

33

34

HOSPITALITY

adventure, could provide us with the backup, and we

Amsterdam), but nothing for younger people. Nothing

got a loan. On 1 January 2008 we opened Café Maxwell.

a little more international. So we thought we could

What was Oost like back then?

bring that and create something for everyone.

There was no other café infrastructure there so we had to

Your “something for everyone” philosophy is evident in the sheer number of different places you now have.

start from scratch, which took a while. People had to get to

Yes, each of them is different. When we open

know us and it really took us half or three fourths of our first

something, we think about what’s needed in a certain

year to set our standard, for people to trust us. Basically it

area. Mentally, we divide Oost into three hospitality

was a matter of making ends meet until the first summer.

clusters around Beukenplein, the Linnaeustraat and the

Then it picked up and followed through to the next winter.

Javastraat. These three streets divide Oost into three

We’d managed to make a name in the neighborhood.

different areas: the Dapperbuurt, the Indischebuurt and

Oost was an achterbuurt—it was behind. It was full of all kinds of people and Beukenplein was a tough square.

Why did you set your sights on Oost?

the Oosterparkbuurt. Before we think of a concept, we first look at what each cluster needs.

Our philosophy was to do something different in the

So for instance, after Maxwell, we opened Café Kuijper

neighborhood we were in. There were a lot of small,

on the Linnaeustraat. Before that it used to be a really

typical Amsterdam places in Oost; brown cafés,

old-fashioned Amsterdam bar. The previous owners

shady bars, run-down stuff, real Amsterdams (typical

were 86 and had literally worked themselves to death.

HOSPITALITY

“We owe it to ourselves and everyone else to bring something new to the scene. So why would you open a burger bar opposite a burger bar?”

They were happy to take a rest. Our concept there

is the reflection of your guests; the people who work at

was to take off the brown edge of the brown café and

Bukowski are more or less the same people who go to

make a light brown café. You could say it was the new

drink there. And sure, operating in a small area means

brown café.

it’s more important than ever to be careful about how

With De Biertuin, the plan was to create a gateway,

we work. It’s all connected.

a place that would attract people to the east. When we

Like when we first opened Kuijper, all kinds of

went on to win Het Parool’s Best Burger in Amsterdam

people would come. Everyone and anyone. But when

in 2014, and the second best grilled chicken, people

Bukowski opened, the vibe at Kuijper changed. All of

from all over were coming to check us, and the

a sudden people had a choice so they filtered out to

neighborhood, out.

where they identified themselves. Everyone should feel

Our second angle was to make De Biertuin somewhere

at home somewhere.

to explore the world in beers. We’d noticed that young people were sticking to lager and it was only the older

Who feels at home at Smokin’ Barrels?

people that would drink something a little more special.

With Smokin’ Barrels, we want to bring high class to the

So we changed the vibe and stuck 60 to 70 craft beers

middle. We serve lobsters and burgers, cocktails and

on the menu alongside our taps. I think that kickstarted

beers, and the idea is to get the people who wouldn’t

a lot of things in Amsterdam.

normally go out for lobsters and cocktails, but would go out for burgers and beers, to try it. So I feel we’re there

What’s your crowd at Bar Bukowski?

to show people something new, whereas on either side

Bukowski was to be the bar of the neighbourhood, what

of Smokin’ Barrels, at Bukowski and Maxwell, the vibe

Cafe Kuijper was to the Linnaeustraat. But we wanted

is different.

it to be a little more international, hence the name and

It was so cool to watch: we really did bring something

the cocktail bar, Henry’s Bar. There wasn’t a place to

new. I always take a few shifts in service when we

drink cocktails in Oost, so we added to the vibe and it

open a new place, and I saw all this claw meat coming

was an instant hit, also with the international media.

back. People didn’t know how to eat lobster! They were

Then there’s Smokin’ Barrels down the road, and Eddy Spaghetti further down. Isn’t it difficult to have so many places so close to each other?

leaving all that meat in the claw because they didn’t know it was there! Since then, we’ve trained our staff to show you the deal.

It’s hugely important for each of our places to be totally

And Eddy’s?

different. Different look and feel, serve different stuff—

Opening Eddy’s reminded me of starting Maxwell’s.

even the people that work there are different. Your staff

It was like starting all over again.

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HOSPITALITY

Just down the road?

Yeah. One square down and you’re the only one on the

What do you think of all of Amsterdam’s attention on the New Oost? Will it change too quickly?

square. Beukenplein already has the infrastructure:

We’re still at a point where things are pretty diverse

if you set up there and your product is good and fairly

in Oost. It’s not yet full. However, there’s always the

priced, you’ll probably be fine. Krugerplein is a different

fear that it could turn into something like de Pijp. Plus

ball game but we hope entrepreneurs will start up there.

there are always copycats. What is bad is that the guys

That makes it better for everyone.

that copied the stuff that works in Oost and opened up

There seems to be the same or mighty similar infrastructure everywhere you look in Oost.

Do you feel there’s too much of the same? That people are just rolling out a standard format?

People have always done what works. Ten to 15 years ago there were thousands of your standard eetcafés (casual

their own version in the West, are now moving those same concepts back to Oost. People aren’t thinking.

Or rather, I don’t think it’s a lack of vision but a lack of balls. We owe it to ourselves and everyone else to bring something new to the scene. So why would you open a burger bar opposite a burger bar?

cafes with simple menus) serving kip saté (chicken

So no more burger bars. What’s next?

skewers) and carpaccio. That people copy what they

We opened Bar Basquiat on the Javastraat. Concept

see working around them is normal. We’re fortunate

is simple: it’s a bar. There’s lots of good food around

that there are people with balls in Amsterdam.

there already and we don’t want to compete, we want

New things are opening around us every month: people

to add. So we’ll open during the day for breakfast and

putting their balls on the block to do something new.

lunch but then it’s bar, bar, bar. We’re opening this with

So I’m positive about this and even when things do

the guys behind Café’s Lux and Weber, which is such

become very similar, I believe that, eventually, people

an honor. These guys started their cafés 20 years ago

will choose with their stomachs.

and were way ahead of their time. When I was young and thinking about my own place I’d go there and fantasize about what mine would be like. They’re real role models for lots of places. Then left of the Biertuin, East of Eden will become Louie Louie, a pub with South American food.

Thank you Riad Farhat for your time and sharing your story with us. Here’s to all those that got them balls on the Oost block. Special thanks to East experts eastsideamsterdam.metmik.nl for making the connection. ¢

3wo.nl

AMSTERDAM

37

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Amsterdam

39

NEIGHBORHOODS

Town talk We explore Amsterdam neighborhoods through the eyes of locals.

In collaboration with the photography duo on a hazy morning, we met the most inspiring locals, who guided us through their own neighborhood with pride and enthusiasm.

Words by MIO VAN DER MEI Pictures by ON A HAZY MORNING

West – Bolo

South - Willemspark

“Basically you could call Bos en Lommer ‘New

“When we moved here 30 years ago it was an art

Casablanca.’ I’ve seen the first immigrants arrive here

& literature neighborhood. Now it has become a

in the 50s. First it was the Spaniards and Italians but

community of arty long-termers and banker-wankers

then came the wave of Moroccan immigrants.”

new-schoolers.” – David Shah

– Henk van Heezick & Mathilde van der Pol

North – Vogelbuurt

South-East - Amsterdamse poort

“It’s like a village! One neighbor who we call opa

“There’s a lively joyful spirit, and you can find the biggest

(grandpa) is always sitting on the corner of the street

music talents here. But people are also less fortunate and

in his wheelchair making small talk and being the

there’s not much faith in the police system, the community

neighborhood watchdog.” – Evelyn Grunau & Kay Berndt

‘solves’ the problems themselves.” – Jay Colin

AMSTERDAM

Rita Farmer

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WELCOME

Minneapolis Prince once said “I will always live in Minneapolis… it’s so cold, it keeps the bad people out.” It is a place where our unique lifestyle is a reflection of our location and climate. There is a strong sense of community in this city; people help each other out.

We are proud of being from Minneapolis, the Minnesotan capital and the epicenter of creativity and vitality that make this region so great.

MEET THE TEAM

Rita Farmer

Colleen Eversman

Connor Siedow

Waqar Ahmad

LOCAL HEROES

Dangerous Man Brewing Company Meet the husband and wife duo behind one of Minneapolis’s coolest breweries—and some of its tastiest beers.

Words by RITA FARMER Pictures by CONNOR SIEDOW

It’s no secret that Minneapolis is a booming beer city. In

Sam led us inside. It was “brew day,” and incredible

2011, the Minnesota State Legislature passed the Surly

smells greeted us upon entry. The brewery resembled

Bill, making it legal for brewers to sell pints on their

a large-scale high school chemistry lab with huge

own premises. The law spurred the opening of a host

copper and stainless steel tanks. In addition to the

of new breweries with adjacent taprooms. Northeast

Dangerous Man brewing crew, several people from

Minneapolis, known for its artist studios and creative

the Minneapolis beer powerhouse Surly Brewing Co.

inhabitants, became a magnet for breweries.

were present.

Dangerous Man Brewing Company was one of the early

We came to learn that the two breweries were working

ones in Northeast, and it remains one of the best. What

together to make a special edition collaborative brew

is its recipe for success? There are several—they all

for May’s Art-A-Whirl festival. Rob came over to say

involve hops, malt and yeast, and they’re all delicious.

hello, but he wasn’t able to say much more as he was

Dangerous Man’s approach is simple: brew good beer

eyeing the timer on his phone to let the others know

that people want to drink. The brewery doesn’t have

when each hop addition was ready to combine with the

the city’s glitziest taproom or even an outdoor patio for

boiling wort.

imbibing al fresco in the summer months, but the team consistently makes some of the best beer in the city and people keep coming back for more.

Brew day On a brisk morning in April, Citinerary correspondent Connor and I visited Dangerous Man Brewing Company to chat with owners, husband-and-wife team Rob Miller and Sarah Bonvallet, along with a few members of the staff.

We arrived before opening hours, so we entered through a back alley lined with tubs of soggy, golden grain that had been used in the brewing process. Taproom manager Sam Holzinger, who met us outside, explains, “We donate the spent grain to local farms to feed their livestock. Occasionally, urban farmers even come by to collect a scoop or two to feed their backyard chickens.”

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LOCAL HEROES

Humble beginnings When Rob was joined us for a chat, he proved to be friendly and wholly dedicated to his craft. “I had been home brewing in my basement for years,” he shares.

“We had talked about starting a brewery and when we found this location on 13th Street in Northeast, a great spot with popular restaurants and interesting galleries, we knew we had to jump on it. It required a huge leap— of faith, of finances, of everything falling into place at

“It required a huge leap—of faith, of finances, of everything falling into place at the exact right time.”

the exact right time, but Sarah was super supportive so we went for it.”

After touring the brewery, Sarah joined us and we went

Dangerous Man is now three years old and has come a

to visit the new space. Not every married couple could

long way from Rob and Sarah’s basement. The company

undertake such a significant business venture together,

launched with six varieties of beer and now has a

but it was clear these two had figured out how to make

rotating selection of many more. Rob and Sarah have

it work. Their respect and adoration for one another

expanded their space, tripling their brewing capacity.

were obvious.

They’ve also opened a storefront for merchandise and beer sales called The Growler Shop, named after

Powered by peanut butter

the growler jug, which holds approximately 1.9 liters

While we were chatting in The Growler Shop, an

of beer.

employee from a news station came by to pick up some “crowlers” (750 ml cans) that would be featured on a local news segment later that day. One of the cans Rob gave him was Dangerous Man’s famous Peanut Butter Porter. Avid readers of Citinerary know that we are big fans of this beer, a deliciously rich and dark porter that goes down like dessert in a glass. And we’re not alone.

This beer has become a driving force behind Dangerous Man’s popularity.

“We didn’t want flagship beers when we started out, but the Peanut Butter Porter was so well received, we had to keep brewing it,” explains Sarah. “We were consistently selling out of it, which is one of the reasons we had to expand. The Peanut Butter Porter now accounts for 25% of our sales.”

Love where you live We met several members of the Dangerous Man crew.

They all echoed the sentiment that the brewery is like a family. Not only do the employees get along well and

MINNEAPOLIS

LOCAL HEROES

enjoy working together, but the taproom also brings in

Fan favorites and a family atmosphere

regulars from the neighborhood who make up part of

In addition to expanding their space, Dangerous Man,

the larger Dangerous Man community.

with Rob at the helm as brewmaster, is continuing

Rob and Sarah decided against distributing their beers

to push the limits of their creativity and brewing

to liquor stores and restaurants. To buy Dangerous Man

expertise. Rob and Sarah proudly showed us the cellar

beer, people must go to the shop, which helps the staff

where they barrel-age several beers for limited release.

get to know the regulars. Sarah added that the choice

We were thrilled to hear about their Imperial Peanut

not to distribute goes a long way toward the goal of

Butter Porter to be aged in port barrels, affectionately

maintaining a work/life balance; rather than brewing

dubbed the “peanut butter and jelly” brew. They

round the clock, the couple have managed to carve out

have also recently partnered with a popular artisanal

time to spend at home with their two kids.

coffeehouse, Five Watt, to make a Big Watt Brewers

The familial, collaborative spirit is one that Rob,

Press—a blend of unfermented wort and cold press

Sarah and Sam all described as central to the broader

coffee.

Minneapolis beer scene. The joint project with Surly

With innovations like these, tried and true recipes

is just one example. The owners view the booming

for fan-favorite beers, a work atmosphere that feels

brewery scene in Minneapolis as great for their industry,

like a family reunion, and a dedication to the greater

encouraging good-natured competition. Sam explains

Minneapolis community, Rob and Sarah have figured

that this industry is very supportive and close-knit, and

out what it takes to be among the best of what this city

Sarah agrees. She sits on the board of the Craft Brewers

has to offer. Now, to open a crowler. ¢

Guild and helps plan events where brewers can learn

dangerousmanbrewing.com

from and collaborate with one other.

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NEIGHBORHOOD

Central Avenue: Local gems revitalized When distinct neighborhoods and different cultures meet, they do so at the intersection of Lowry and Central Avenues in northeast Minneapolis.

Words & pictures by RITA FARMER

The intersection of Lowry and Central Avenues in northeast Minneapolis is more than just a corner where two streets meet. We explore the intersection of three distinct neighborhoods, where old and new coexist, and many cultures are neighbors to one another.

Ethnic eats The dining options along this two-block stretch of Central Avenue are as varied as the inhabitants who populate the surrounding neighborhoods. They serve up delicious food and authentic cultural experiences from far reaches of the globe. Long before I became a resident of this neighborhood, I made the trek to El Taco Riendo (‘the laughing taco’) for their famed al pastor (slow-simmered barbecue pork) tacos and a chance to put my Spanish degree to use. That visit isn’t complete without a stop at Durango Bakery next door for a slice of tres leches cake.

Cultivating the northeast Sen Yai Sen Lek (‘little noodle, big noodle’) is known throughout the city for its Bangkok street fare. But we neighborhood residents have a better picture of the restaurant. Last year, the Sen Yai Sen Lek team joined other community members in planting a permaculture garden from which the restaurant now sources produce. Residents of the community are welcome to use garden space as an urban oasis. The organizers

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NEIGHBORHOOD

even commissioned local muralists to paint the two

expanded to serve their growing clientele. The latter,

walls around the garden as a colorful welcome to the

which is almost as old as I am, doubled the size of its

neighborhood.

dining room to accommodate all of the community members who come during Ramadan to break their

Old anchors and new kids

fast at sundown.

The ethnic restaurants on Central have long been the

The success story of Central Avenue is that the

anchors of the neighborhood. Today, new kids on the

new has not merely replaced the old, but has

block are moving in and establishing a new image for the

revitalized the elements that have always made the

area. With these new businesses come young families,

neighborhood great. ¢

artists, and entrepreneurs. Thanks in large part to the Northeast Investment Cooperative, a communityowned real estate group, redeveloped storefronts are now home to a bike shop, German bakery, Co-op Brewery and Tap Room, and a third wave coffee shop.

Rather than jeopardizing the original residents of the street, the development seems to have been good for business. Two of my personal favorites, El Taco Riendo and The Holy Land Deli and Market, have recently

MINNEAPOLIS

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PHOTOGRAPHY

Capturing the power of womanhood When stylist, artist, and all-around badass Connie Mrotek told me that she wanted to produce a female-only photo collaboration celebrating unconventional beauty and the strength of women in our community, I thought, “Hell yes.”

Words by COLLEEN EVERSMAN

Last year’s Black Magik Woman was a collaboration by

But this is really about being a woman and the beauty

five photographers (myself included) and five models.

inside of all of us.

After shooting our individual perspectives, we had our work printed and showcased at the Urban Outfitters in

Why the name Black Magik Woman?

uptown Minneapolis. The turnout and reception was

The name comes from a song, first performed by

such a hit that Connie decided to produce a sequel.

Fleetwood Mac and made popular by Santana, called

I spoke to Connie about the “what” and “why” of Black

“Black Magic Woman.” It’s a man singing about this

Magik Woman, and here’s what she had to say.

beautiful woman who is so mysterious and enchanting,

How would you describe the history and evolution of Black Magic Woman? What inspired its inception?

she puts a spell on him.

As women, we are more in touch with spirits, energies, the moon and stars than men. Throughout history, we have been accused of being witches like its a bad thing,

I have a background in art and fashion and wanted to

but really it’s because men don’t fully understand us,

do a project or event that was more art-centered, as

and probably never will; and that is totally okay!

opposed to fashion-centered. As I was brainstorming

There’s a really great movement happening in New

ideas, I realized how many of my female friends

York, a group of women that call themselves Witches

are artists, and I wanted to promote a project that

of Bushwick. I would absolutely love for this project to

empowered us to not only show our talents, but to show

evolve into something like what they are doing. It gives

how powerful we are together.

me all the good feels.

I think so many women are afraid to work together,

so much better to support each other than to tear each

It takes a lot of energy, patience, and time to produce a project like this. What are some insights you’ve garnered from this experience?

other down. It made sense to do an all female project,

CM: I have learned so much from this project so far. It

highlighting that magic in us all. I did want to represent

is so inspiring and rewarding to see all of these women

many different types of women: white, black, Asian,

come together and make something that is so well-

straight, gay, single, married, parents, non-parents, etc.

received and positive. We all get excited for each other

or automatically put up a competitive wall; but really, there is room for us all to grow and flourish, and it feels

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2

3

4

1

5

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PHOTOGRAPHY

“I am so damn lucky they believed in my vision.” and can’t wait to see what we have all come up with.

There’s no competitive undertone or hard feelings about this or that; it is seriously, just all positivity. I am so proud of each and every one of these ladies; they all inspire me to be a better person and to continue working on loving myself and those around me. I am so damn lucky they believed in my vision.

Irv Briscoe

The real magic of community This year’s Black Magik Woman was a truly inspiring event that showed so much growth and evolution from last year. There were 10 photographers, each paired

par with that of any big city. Yet, there was still that

with a stylist and a model. The gallery opening was held

wonderful close-knit community feel that reminded us

at new and stylish Norseman Distillery in Northeast

we were indeed in Minneapolis.

Minneapolis. Over 400 people attended the opening,

As Connie pointed out, there is a great collaborative

which felt like a family reunion of all of Minneapolis’s

spirit here, where rather than compete, people boost

creatives in one place.

each other up and support one another’s craft. Black

As a participating photographer for both years, the

Magik Woman, with Connie and her team of awesome

experience has been so important to me as an artist. It’s

creative females, is a shining example of this city at its

challenged me to think about what I want my work to

absolute best. ¢

represent and say, it’s influenced how I shoot, it’s taught me to be okay with criticism, and most importantly it’s brought me closer to other creatives in this community that I probably wouldn’t otherwise be connected to. The night of the opening was especially beautiful because we all got to see each other’s work and all of the people

1 Photographer: Katie Essick 2 Photographer: Erin Pederson 3 Photographer: Nylon Saddle 4 Photographer: Athena Pelton Stylist: Lauren Roberts // Haus of Elle Model: Lindsey Dewitt Makeup: Julie Lam Floral: Alexia Kelsey // Whimsey Design

who came out to support us all was real magic.

5 Photographer: Colleen Eversman // 2nd Truth Stylist: Judith Marilyn Model: Jennesa LaSota

A “big” small city

6 Photographer: Serene Supreme Stylist: Katrina Haugen Model: Lauo Blak

At the opening night, attendees remarked that it almost felt like we were in Los Angeles or Brooklyn. The caliber of the art and fashion exhibited in that room were on

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FOOD

Reimagining the dinner club Open your home, feed strangers, and quit your day job.

A husband-and-wife team lives their dream and gives Minneapolis foodies a chance to connect over cuisine.

Words & pictures by COLLEEN EVERSMAN

Minneapolis is home to some many notable restaurants.

Since Minneapolis is relatively small, it’s usually no

A select few have even won the highly esteemed James

surprise to find mutual friends or common interests

Beard Award. This is great for those who love amazing

with one or more of your fellow diners. There is

food, but sometimes you just want to have a tasty meal

laughter and merriment throughout the entire evening,

without all the fuss and frills of fancy fine dining. Enter

and it’s amazing that you walk away not only with a

Matt Kapra and Megan Sheridan, the kick-ass husband

happy belly, but a happy heart.

and wife duo behind private dinner club 320 Northeast.

Going beyond local: going native

Dinner with strangers

My second favorite thing about Matt and Megan’s

Since opening a brick and mortar restaurant was

dinners is that all of their ingredients are from local,

much too expensive, and buying a farm in the country

organic farms and are native to this region. Yes, native,

was not very convenient, Matt and Megan decided to

meaning they don’t serve anything that isn’t historically

host dinners in the comfort of their dining room in a

from here. If you’re at all familiar with growing crops,

townhouse in northeast Minneapolis.

you know how this may complicate things for us here

My first favorite thing about 320 Northeast is that it

where winters are characterized by -30 degree wind

gently coaxes you to step outside of your comfort zone.

chill and meters of snow fall.

We are so used to sharing meals with people we already

At most restaurants you can look at a menu and decide

know that the idea of having to eat with—and talk

whether you want steak or chicken. At 320 Northeast,

to—strangers may seem foreign and uncomfortable.

the menu has been meticulously deliberated by Matt

320 Northeast offers 10 seats at the table, of which you

and Megan. What they’ve chosen is what you’re

can only book a maximum of two. You don’t know who

getting—and it’s always a creative array.

the other eight people will be until you arrive. Sounds

The menu changes from week to week, but might

crazy, right?

include items like chicken roulade, pork or duck

You sit down and introduce yourself to the other folks

rillettes, trout lox, or spinach salad with homemade

at the table, and thus begins the conversation to get

honey mustard aioli.

to know one another. I’ve been to four dinners at 320 Northeast, and I can tell you that the conversation at

From a dream to a reality

each one has been as unique and diverse as the people

Aside from being some of the best food you’ll ever eat

who attended.

and one of the greatest exercises in getting to know

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FOOD

strangers, what’s truly inspiring about Matt and Megan is that they’ve turned a dream into a reality.

They quit their day jobs to spend their days butchering their own meats—on their kitchen table, canning vegetables that come from local farms or from their own garden, and making their own vinegars with apples they pick themselves.

320 Northeast is a testament to the fact that if you follow your heart, and you do what you love, the rest will follow.

Bigger and better Since the original feature on our online journal, 320 Northeast has expanded to a larger studio space in northeast Minneapolis, which allows for more seating and space for guests to mingle and chat before and after dinner. Matt and Megan continue to work closely with nearby farmers to keep the menu native and local. ¢

320northeast.com

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COFFEE

Artisanal coffee houses in Minneapolis Maybe it’s the long winter, maybe it’s the Scandinavian heritage of many of our locals.

It should come as no surprise that Minneapolis is riding the global trend of artisanal coffeehouses.

Words & pictures by WAQAR AHMAD

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COFFEE

Over the course of one long, coffee-fueled weekend, I visited 10 independent coffeehouses in Minneapolis and sampled their brews. Here are my top five favorites in no particular order—plus the music that was playing at the time of my visit. Because we all know it’s never just about the coffee.

Anelace Coffee Founded by Eric Olney and Caitlin Shrestha, Anelace Coffee is one of the newest among the pack of craft coffee houses in Minneapolis. The first business venture for both its founders, Anelace offers a neighborhood alternative for the growing population of the northeast.

A bright white interior, beautiful chandelier, and helpful baristas add to the character of this increasingly popular Central Avenue spot.

WHAT’S BREWING?

Anelace specializes in Japanese-style slow drip and uses beans from a rotating cast of roasters.

WHAT’S PLAYING?

White Sands by The Fabulous Three

anelacecoffee.com

Five Watt Coffee Co-owned by Lee Carter and Caleb Garn, Five Watt Coffee has been a bright and welcome addition to the Kingfield neighborhood of Minneapolis since its opening in early 2014. The name “Five Watt” refers to a record label Garn previously owned. Over a cold press on a Sunday morning, he told us that the typical demographic of clientele at this location is typically 25 and over.

WHAT’S BREWING?

Five Watt takes pride in offering innovative flavors by adding cocktail bitters to its brews. Watch out for Five Watt’s next big thing coming to a store near you: cold press coffee cans.

WHAT’S PLAYING?

Are You A Hypnotist?? by The Flaming Lips

fivewattcoffee.com

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COFFEE

“We approach coffee with humility, and we welcome all.”

Peace Coffee Originally a supplier of fair trade coffee beans across the country since 1996, Peace Coffee opened its first retail location in 2010 in the Longfellow neighborhood.

According to Jackson O’Brien, the head barista of the flagship store, beans come from 16 farmer co-ops across the world. Its specialty drink menu changes every three months, with Café Horchata as the current favorite.

WHAT’S BREWING?

Harvest Moon Latte, containing actual pumpkin pulp, is the next addition to the menu.

WHAT’S PLAYING?

Inaudible, but anything by Neil Young is always welcomed by the patrons and staff, according to O’Brien.

peacecoffee.com

Dogwood Coffee “We approach coffee with humility, and we welcome all,” says Bryant Scannell, barista at Dogwood Café.

Founded in 2014, the Lake Street location of Dogwood Coffee shares its location with Forage, a modern interiors boutique. The friendly and welcoming staff makes this coffeehouse not just an extension of your home décor shopping stop, but a destination for quality coffee in a relaxed atmosphere.

WHAT’S BREWING?

Dogwood has announced its entry into Canada with a new location in Winnipeg, Manitoba.

WHAT’S PLAYING?

Synthetica by Metric

dogwoodcoffee.com

MINNEAPOLIS

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COFFEE

Spyhouse Coffee Roasters The Northeast location is the third and unarguably the most popular among of Spyhouse’s four locations. The character of this repurposed warehouse is enhanced by its original floors, floor-to-ceiling windows, and barninspired furniture. “Rustic charm” sums up the décor.

The space has been a favorite setting for #lattegrams for Instagrammers since its opening in fall 2013.

WHAT’S BREWING?

Spyhouse’s current offerings include fair trade and organic blends from Ecuador, the Congo, Papua New Guinea, Peru, Guatemala, and Colombia.

WHAT’S PLAYING?

One Two by The Cool Kids

spyhousecoffee.com

The Bachelor Farmer Café An extension of popular The Bachelor Farmer restaurant and its adjacent speakeasy, Marvel Bar, and men’s clothing and accessories store Askov Finlayson, this cafe is owned and operated by Eric and Andrew Dayton, sons of Minneapolis governor, Mark Dayton. The café opened in January 2016 in the thriving North Loop neighborhood of Minneapolis.

The café features rotating roasters from around the continent, with an emphasis on introducing new roasters to Minneapolis, such as Denver’s Huckleberry Roasters and Calgary’s Phil & Sebastian. Keeping with the heritage of parent restaurant The Bachelor Farmer, TBF Café offers Scandinavian baked delicacies from the hands of in-house pastry chef Emily Marks. The cafe is bright, stylish, and features modern decor and furniture. It’s definitely worth a visit!

WHAT’S BREWING?

The Bachelor Farmer worked closely with local Dogwood Coffee to curate an in-house drip: the North Loop Blend.

thebachelorfarmer.com

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LOCAL GOODS

Made in Minneapolis

2nd Truth Photography

Here are a few of our team’s favorite products that are made right here in Minneapolis.

2nd Truth Photography

Neal Jewelry nealjewelry.com

Mill City Finerie

Upperclassmen

Brandon Werth Photography

millcityfineries.com

Tattersall Distilling Solid Manufacturing

tattersalldistilling.com

Rebecca Studios

2nd Truth Photography

solidmanufacturingco.comcom

Truce Fresh-Pressed Juice drinktruce.com

Spring Finn & Co. springfinnandco.com

MINNEAPOLIS

Jayme Halbritter

Connor Siedow

Rita Farmer

Jayme Halbritter

TRIBUTE

Purple city: Minneapolis mourns Prince Prince was an international superstar, a prolific recording artist, a virtuoso on multiple instruments, an actor, a trend-setter, a rule-breaker. And to the city of Minneapolis, he was ours.

Words by RITA FARMER

He told Oprah in an interview in 1996: “I will always live

of stories and memories, the way the city reacted.

in Minneapolis...it’s so cold it keeps the bad people out.”

It was amazing...heartfelt, and so real...sad at times,

He loved this city and, this weekend, residents came out

but mostly celebratory, and such a testament to the

in droves to show just how much we loved him back.

incredible impact that Prince had on people.”

The moment news of his death spread, people flocked

From public outdoor screenings of Purple Rain that

to honor Prince at First Avenue, the club which was

drew thousands of people, to the bells at Minneapolis

famously featured in his 1984 movie, Purple Rain. The

City Hall playing Prince songs, to spontaneous murals

club and nearby intersection became a memorial for

and works of public art in his honor, to Prince’s signature

Prince for the rest of the weekend with impromptu

color purple being displayed absolutely everywhere,

concerts, all nightdance parties, and a shrine next to

residents of Minneapolis came together in a way I don’t

Prince’s star on the wall.

recall ever seeing in my lifetime.

Growing up in North Minneapolis, there was a sense

Local photographer Jayme Halbritter arrived at First

among people in my neighborhood that they could do

Avenue the afternoon of Prince’s death to document

anything because they were from the same place as

the crowds and he didn’t leave until the next day. Jayme

Prince. The world lost a music legend last week, but

describes the scene: “I have never experienced such

Minneapolis lost its hero.

a phenomenon, the outpouring of people, the flood

May he rest in peace. May he rest in power.

MINNEAPOLIS

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Robin Cox

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BINE AȚI VENIT

Bucharest Formerly known as “Little Paris”, Bucharest has grown to the sixth largest city of the European Union. After the Communist era and entering the EU, this city is now one of the most prosperous in our roster of cities. Take a stroll in Bucharest and you will probably feel like you have visited not one, but a couple of cities. We, the Bucharesters, tend to be friendly and humble, and the smiles on our face grow bigger and bigger when we meet a stranger.

MEET THE TEAM

Alexa Sferle

Diana Duca

Ioana Negulescu

Mihai Surdu

Oana Rus

Raluca Coada

CULTURE

Living in the European capital of asymmetry Since moving to Bucharest, Swedish diplomat Alexander Peyre Dutrey has been fascinated with its roughness and authenticity. One of the city’s biggest advocates, he knows more about it than many of its residents and can convince anyone that it’s a place worth living.

Words by ALEXA SFERLE / ALEXANDER PEYRE DUTREY Pictures by IOANA NEGULESCU

I come from the capital of Scandinavia: Stockholm,

One example is Bucharest’s somehow anarchistic city

a city that is often described by its beauty. I love my

planning where a downtown street in a block might

hometown, and have always been proud of it. But

unite everything from a 19th century palace, a charming

living in Bucharest for two years has to some extent

Art Deco building to a termoizolare Communist block

changed my perspectives. Bucharest—my Bucharest—

painted in bright colors.

has something unique that Stockholm lacks, something

Most central neighborhoods offer surprises and

that often makes me miss the city when I am back

interesting architectural combinations. A personal

in Sweden.

favorite is the forgotten street Maximilian Popper just

I have long tried to describe my attraction to Bucharest

behind Ceausescu’s megalomanic Bulevardul Unirii.

in one single word. I want to understand what it is that

I find my beloved Bucharest when I am strolling past

makes me so fond of the city. I believe the answer is the

the gorgeous, decadent 18th and 19th century buildings

city’s beautiful asymmetry.

with a backdrop of the totalitarian-style housing on Bulevardul Unirii and the Casa Popolurui.

Observing without judging

The asymmetrical composition has a beauty that grows

Looking for asymmetry is seeing a different city.

with time and that never stops surprising you. Even

Observing contrasts is discovering the magic of

while walking around with Romanian friends, we tend

diversity, without judging, while understanding that

to discover new architectural pearls with interesting

beauty often emerges in its relation to something else.

and unexpected asymmetrical combinations.

“The Bucharest I love has to be enjoyed right now, since many parts of it could disappear in just a few years.”

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CULTURE

“Observing contrasts is discovering the magic of diversity. Beauty often emerges in relation to something else.”

My Bucharest is also an asymmetry of people. The

a few years. Amazing oases like Dianei 4 and Gradina

journey from the terraces of the restaurants of Soseaua

Eden—including the activities in Palatul Stirbei—will

Nordului to the Saturday or Sunday market in Obor

probably soon be demolished or refurbished to become

is a pleasure for the eye in the rich variation of faces

either impersonal malls or anonymous modern blocks.

and characters.

Developers are setting up building projects to destroy parts of the Herastrau, Tineretului and Titan parks.

Contrast between two worlds

Bucharest’s old French Art Nouveau/Art Deco style

On one hand, you have Nordului with its successful

buildings are under a constant threat of either ugly

Bucharesters—and wannabes—showing off wealth,

remodels (including termoizolare or cheap thermopan

power and the appearance of a happy life. On the other

windows) or destruction, sometimes simply by neglect.

hand, you have the popular Obor market, with the

Moreover, the old network of amazing classic cinemas

rich variation of characters coming from Bucharest

is mismanaged and forgotten by many Bucharesters.

and its surroundings. Strolling around the market,

Visiting what once were cinematographic temples is

I sometimes watch fur-covered old ladies with faces

in itself an experience, calling to mind the Italian film

that tell a story of a life that has been lived buying

Cinema Paradiso.

vegetables from street vendors. Seas of flowers combine with the aromas of grilled mici and a distant tone of a

Unique asymmetry

catchy Manele song. The contrasting combination of

I am a simple observer of this amazing city, happy to

these two worlds generates the beauty that constitutes

have the honor of experiencing this fantastic place. If you

my Bucharest.

haven’t been here you should visit it while the charming asymmetry of Bucharest is still alive. Discover the soul of

Endangered beauty

the city by taking a walk off the beaten path. If you are

I also love this city so much because of the sensation of

a Bucharester, then please mobilize for the protection

its volatile and endangered beauty. Many architectural

and positive development of your city. Your city needs

gems of the city are under serious threat. This generates

more citizens to fight for its architectural pearls, parks,

a feeling that the Bucharest I love has to be enjoyed

cinemas, theaters and institutions. Be proud of your city’s

right now since many parts of it could disappear in just

asymmetry—it’s unique! ¢

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ENTERTAINMENT

Classical music on the subway Waiting for the subway is no longer a tedious waste of time. A Bucharest organization is bringing sexy Bach—something even clubs can’t handle.

Words by OANA RUS

Attention; doors closing. Bucharest NGO Arta nu Muşcă

but we knew for sure that we’d love to approach public

(art does not bite) has skillfully organized another

spaces from a cultural perspective.”

successful edition of their popular festival Muzică clasică la metrou, classical music on the subway.

Dazed and confused—in a good way

Over five days in the third week of April, the festival

The festival creates a completely different experience of

covered four of the most transited subway stations in

the subway. People of all ages hopped off and encircled

Bucharest. The last edition featured 36 performances

the artists, dazed and confused in a good way. I vividly

with over 70 artists. For one and a half hour each evening,

recall a young boy, no more than 10 years old, watching

subway stations metamorphose into atypical concert

the concert in bewildered awe, for he had seen nothing

halls, hosting a series of classical music performances.

like this before. When Light Quartet ladies announced

Sonics aside, the festival includes a variety of art events

their next performance—the Scooby Doo soundtrack—

like tango flashmobs, illustration, classical ballet, and

we all witnessed his enthusiastic “YESSS!” echoing

contemporary dance, to name a few.

through the station.

“It’s delightful to observe different reactions from

Giving young artists a venue to perform

the moment the doors open. Their eyes down at first,

The two ladies behind the festival, Loredana Munteanu

they’re suddenly surprised by classical music and,

and Cristina Dobrescu, envision the project as an

with a puzzled look, they hop off the train to see what’s

annual concept of cultural responsibility with two

actually happening,” Loredana adds.

components. It aims to create a platform to support

“They miss train after train, while letting go of all the

emerging young artists who lack access to performance

anxieties accumulated throughout the day – they smile,

venues, and to encourage the general public to consume

they clap, they thank, they ask for an encore, they cry,

cultural products in a creative way.

they’re being vulnerable like never before.”

“It was the summer of 2012 when the idea of the festival

So forget about being a glammed-up member of the

popped up, together with the foundation of our NGO,”

elite, sitting on a red velvet chair in a fancy, Baroque-

Loredana explains. “I was a fresh graduate with a

style concert hall. If you think that’s the only way to

Master’s in Social Entrepreneurship when I randomly

enjoy classical music, Bucharest’s Muzică clasică la

met Cristina via some friends and asked her if she

metrou has just proved you wrong. ¢

wanted to build something together. She didn’t give it a second thought, and quit her job the following day.

At that time, things were still a bit hazy in our heads,

BUCHAREST

Corneliu Tănasă

GPA Events

Corneliu Tănasă

GPA Events

Corneliu Tănasă

Corneliu Tănasă

“They smile, they clap, they thank, they ask for an encore, they cry.

They’re being vulnerable like never before.”

Corneliu Tănasă

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LOCAL HEROES

Alex Gâlmeanu and Muzeul de Fotografie Photographer Alex Gâlmeanu is an avid explorer and enthusiastic ambassador of his city.

From people to places, his photographs capture his journeys of discovery.

Words by ALEXA SFERLE Pictures courtesy of ALEX GÂLMEANU AND MUZEUL DE FOTOGRAFIE

BUCHAREST

LOCAL HEROES

“Bucharest is full of flaws. It’s extremely heterogenous, asymmetrical, built in a direction that no one predicted.”

blog as I found them. Seeing a growing interest in them, I decided to separate this endeavor from my personal photography.

Where do the photographs come from?

A huge part of Muzeul de Fotografie’s resources—its foundation—is built on my personal collections.

However, there are many photos that came from passionate collectors who use the platform to reach the audience we’ve already gained. Some of the most interesting items come from other contributors. This makes me extremely proud, even prouder than I am of my own collection.

Bucharest-based photographer Alex Gâlmeanu has

In order to present the photos as interestingly as

worked all over Romania doing editorial, advertising,

possible, we go through a comprehensive process

and experimental photography.

of analysis of each of their elements. However, my

While most of his photos involve people, Alex is also

colleagues and I make incredible discoveries only

an avid explorer of his city, continuously discovering

after the photos are published—through information

places and their history. We spoke to Alex about some

received from our public. I’m extremely happy that we

of his personal projects, and were delighted to discover

formed such a community.

a lively and enthusiastic ambassador of Bucharest, its people, and their stories.

Your digital project, Muzeul de Fotografie, has become one of the most authoritative sources of old, documentary-valued photographs in Romania. How did it start?

Where do you see this headed?

It’s funny how Romania still doesn’t have an official photography museum even though it was among the first countries in which photography was practiced— only three years after its invention.

I would love it if this undertaking would go beyond the

The project started out of pure passion. I’m a

digital medium. Sooner or later Romania will have such

professional photographer, so my passions don’t go

a museum, a physical one; all the material we need is

very far from it. My interest in collecting photographs

already available. This is some sort of distant plan for

comes—one way or another—from my family. For

me, I admit.

almost 35 years, my father was a documentary movie movies, and I believe he inflicted in me this “gene” of

Is there a specific case or story that you discovered, that left a mark on you?

curiosity related to history. Photography—a method of

Yes, two of them, actually.

remembrance—was a very good fit. It was only a matter

The first one—a friend donated a collection of glass

of time until I started organizing, maintaining and

negatives he bought in an antique shop in the 1990s.

exhibiting a personal collection of photographs.

I scanned them and discovered a set of family photos

At first, I posted interesting items on my personal

that, in a completely involuntary manner, constitute

director. Part of his career was dedicated to historical

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LOCAL HEROES

a very coherent series. The family appears in photos

Beyond that, I wanted these photographs to end up in

taken over about six different periods of time, all

good hands, hands that would truly appreciate them.

in a similar manner. Originally from the 1920s, the

So, whenever I hang one of them up around the city,

photographs give a feeling of watching a scene from

I publish it on my social media accounts, giving my

a play. The project could very well be a contemporary

followers a heads up. Most of the photos disappear in

one; it’s made with surprising authenticity.

around 10 minutes.

The second one is one of our most successful stories in

I once left one of my photos close to a friend’s house,

terms of online popularity. It concerns a series of photos

but didn’t tell her. Incidentally, she saw my Facebook

taken in the 1960s that show the era’s less photographed

post and called me, telling me that she was going to get

facets of Bucharest. As far as I know, they were taken

it. I told her, “Okay, but hurry up, they go pretty fast.”

by an American. They show—contrary to expectations

Her response: “How fast could it go away?! It’s across

and to what history teaches us—the city of Bucharest

the road!” As she approached the place, she saw a lady

in one of its most fabulous conditions: modern, clean,

literally running towards it. They arrived at the same

filled with beautiful people. It doesn’t look like a black

time but my friend being my friend, she gave the print

period of Communism, but one in which Bucharest

up to the other lady.

seems to have been very well connected to European

We found out that it was actually the husband that

trends. I believe the pictures were so well-received in

called her while in the supermarket. She abandoned

social media, especially by older people, because they

her groceries and came running.

were the missing puzzle pieces from their childhood

I’m absolutely honored that people are participating in

memories.

this so passionately.

These two milestones were exactly the fuel I needed to go on with the project.

You also initiated a project that involves hanging prints of your photographs around the city. Can you tell us more about it?

Finally, we’d love to know: what would you say to a photographer who’s traveling to Bucharest for the first time?

Bucharest is a city full of flaws. It doesn’t behave like an European city, at least not in the conventional way.

Muzeul de Fotografie and this project are connected.

It’s extremely heterogenous, completely asymmetrical,

Photography goes well with history, remembrance; it

built in a direction that no one predicted. You can see

records and documents certain moments. So, because

its history imprinted the same way you see a huge scar

of Muzeul de Fotografie, I never leave the house

on someone’s face. If I were to visit Bucharest for the

without a camera. I have a huge collection of street

first time, I would take advantage of this to the max.

photographs and I decided I should give some of these

It’s a city of contrasts—each of these flaws contributes

back to the community. I made a selection, printed

to an absolutely fabulous city identity that needs to be

them tp exhibition standards—signed, unique prints—

understood and discovered. ¢

and started hanging them around the city, close to the

alexgalmeanu.com muzeuldefotografie.ro

place they were shot. This way, I see the whole city as an art gallery.

BUCHAREST

DESIGN

Contemporary design meets Romanian tradition Dare to Rug reinvents traditional Romanian folk patterns in their handmade rugs. Founders Andreea Batros and Flavia Scînteanu share the story of their homegrown brand.

Words by MIHAI SURDU Pictures by THE FAB SQUAD

How did Dare to Rug start?

our 10 patterns we are able to create custom designs for

The whole thing started in December 2014, when I was

clients and customers.

back from Shanghai and Flavia from Milano. We both used to say that one day we’d start something together

What kind of materials do you use?

here, in Romania.

We use wool from New Zealand, as it’s the best wool for

After a chat with our family, we realized that in Romania

this technique of creating hand-tufted rugs. There is no

there are no handmade rugs made by local artists, only

translation in Romanian for hand-tufted, but I remember

big companies. We both worked abroad as interior

finding an ad from the Communist period, a poster for a

designers and proposed rugs as decorative objects

local rug factory from Transylvania, in which you could

to clients, so from the beginning we had a different

see the word “tufted” as a Romanian word.

perspective on rugs.

Foreigners tend to see these kind of ethnic patterns as

How does the process work?

something contemporary, even if for us Romanians

You start by using a big canvas, drawing the pattern

they tend to be more traditional.

using a projector. Then you mark the color placement and using a special tool, you start inserting the wool,

Where does your inspiration come from?

which is pre-colored.

Each rug is inspired by a historic province of Romania, of which we have 10. So we have 10 types of designs, each inspired by a specific zone. Inspiration comes from different sources: sometimes historical rug designs or from architectural elements from those specific areas.

The main direction was pattern. We didn’t want to reinterpret the old rugs. We analyzed decorative elements that you can find on folk costumes. The symbols and patterns are timeless, as they’re like ballads, inspired by daily life, by things that surrounded those people, such as a church or village. In addition to

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DESIGN

Why did you start this business in Bucharest? return. Design in Romania is growing pretty fast right

I’m from a city where people tend to put their rugs on the walls. Do you find that common in Bucharest?

now and you see a lot of new initiatives in this field,

People still tend to use rugs to decorate their walls in

which makes getting yourself heard quite easy. The

villages, but in Bucharest you don’t find rugs on the

market here in Bucharest is really eager for designers

walls. You don’t even find them on the floor, hence our

and new products, and you feel the enthusiasm for

name, Dare to Rug. People in Bucharest nowadays are

every new product that is created. In other cities like

bored of rugs, because during the Communist times

Milan or Shanghai, it’s quite hard to bring something

they had them everywhere, on the floor and on the

new to the public.

walls. And we said, “No way, we’re going to bring back

It feels really good to be here in Bucharest, in this

the rug!”

It’s our home. When I left this country I knew I would

moment when you see something valuable created by its citizens.

What is the added value of having a rug in a home?

Who is the typical customer of your product?

There are several roles that a rug has in your home,

Usually our customers are young people ages 25 to 35 from

beginning with function. It feels good and comfortable

Bucharest, young families that are starting a new life in

when you step on it. It traps dust and allergens, as well

a new house and willing to invest. They’re interested in

as absorbing sounds.

the look and how this new space is going to make them

From an emotional perspective, it is an object of decor

feel, so in that case our rugs bring an emotional value to

that can dictate the space. With a rug you can make a

their homes. A lot of our customers ask for something

big impact on the design of a room.

fresh, colorful, and with a certain spirit.

Is there any specific pattern that comes from Bucharest?

What do people from Bucharest say about this business?

Yes, there is a pattern that comes from Muntenia,

One of the things that we tend to hear often, is that people were looking for a rug for a long time and

the area in which Bucharest is located.

thing is that we have succeeded in reinterpreting

What would you tell young designers who want to start their own new business?

colors,

Hold on to quality ideas and don’t be discouraged

couldn’t find something until they found us. Another bringing

traditional

patterns

into

a

by the market and by what people say. Usually you’ll

contemporary design.

How did people used to relate with rugs during Communist times?

find that customers tend to impose their ideas, and here you should be confident in your professional beliefs and ideas.

It’s actually really interesting as we were looking for a

When creating product designs, always use quality

new space and the owners were trying to impose the use

materials. A product that is made with quality will tend

of rugs for sound insulation. This was an idea coming

to last and bring you a long-term reputation. ¢

from the Communist era, when you were advised to use

daretorug.com

rugs to bring down the volume of noise.

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HISTORY

Children of the revolution Our Bucharest correspondent Ioana describes growing up in post-revolution, post-Communist Romania: a childhood that was different, to say the very least.

Words & pictures by IOANA NEGULESCU

I was conceived in late December of 1989, when a great

emotional value that chewing gum had. No matter that

number of young Romanians gathered under the same

its taste would only last for two minutes!

goal: to put an end to Communism.

My parents were 23 and 25 when they had me. They

Those young people marching on the roads of Bucharest

were just starting their careers, and hence I spent most

and other cities in Romania were our parents. They

of my time with my grandparents. It was quite usual

were the ones who wanted a better future for their kids.

for people to get married right after or even during

I grew up in a Communist block, of which there were

university. It seemed like back then, deciding to make

plenty in the neighborhood. I can still recall the smell of

babies depended neither on their career plans nor on

cold and wet air when you entered one of those blocks.

the quality of life they would have.

I can still vividly remember watching people beating their carpets to remove the dust in the courtyard. That

Time to move on

seemed to be some sort of tradition.

We moved to a house when I was 10. I met my neighbors

I also remember my grandparents asking me to buy

and was lucky that they were the same age as I was.

bread; with the rest of the money I had left, I would buy

There was never any thought of using phones to call

Turbo Gum. Ask any Bucharest-raised kid who grew

each other. When we wanted to meet, we would go to

up in the 90s about Turbo Gum, and you’ll see what an

our friend’s house and shout out their name. Someone

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would always open the door for you. I would gather all my friends and organize shows for our parents; it’s hard to believe how much effort we put into designing a stage, rehearsing songs, poems, and stand-up shows.

As we grew older our street activities changed. The internet almost chained us indoors. Then came university. I went to study abroad and so did most of my friends. That’s when truly great opportunities arose for my generation: endless foreign university fairs, scholarships and programs. That was something very new in my country.

Bucharest comes of age Then, the real surprise. During the first year of university, because I had a really good low-cost connection, I flew back to Bucharest almost every month. And my, were things different. Every single time! Even the grey blocks I knew from my childhood started to become more colorful.

I remember the last evening I spent in Bucharest before my university adventure, in a place called Arcade Café in the Old Town. At that time, there were only a couple of cafes in that area, and no one ever thought that would become the real city center and hub of fun.

All the beautiful old buildings, ready to crumble due to the lack of care during the regime of Ceaușescu, were being rebuilt. New cafes, pubs and clubs opened, it seemed, almost every week. At least that’s what it looked like to me.

More and more tourists discovered the city. What’s not to like? Cheap drinks, cheap taxis, great nightlife, and friendly (and I would say humble) people.

That’s how Bucharest and I grew up together. And the story continues. ¢

JOIN US

We create or break perceptions.

We’re here to observe, capture, show and share.

With teams of enthusiastic city correspondents, we’re here to create an understanding of the cities we love and live in.

Citinerary creates daily online content on city life and culture from various cities, such as neighborhood portraits, interviews with local heroes, reportson special events, trends and developments.

From an online magazine to hosting local events, and now launching our first print Journal, we’re always on the look-out for new city enthusiasts joining our network. Do you want to have your city added and become a city captain? Or do you have a passion for writing/ photography and want to join our teams as a city correspondent?

We’re open to ideas, true local stories and enthusiastic citizens.

Get in touch and join our collective intention hello@citinerary.net

97

Adriรกn Cano Franco

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BIENVENIDO

Madrid Madrid is made up of a unique fusion of old and new bones: from traditional Spanish bars and restaurants which have not changed since their inaugurations, to streets filled with Indian cuisine, yoga classes run by international practitioners or cafés built by young, passionate creatives and entrepreneurs. Our city is roaring with life.

The sun—the source of people’s energy—is Spain’s ultimate blessing. Madrid is sun, and sun is happiness.

MEET THE TEAM

Marieke Elisah Lensvelt

Adrián Cano Franco

Manuel Azurmendi

Marta Aguilar Cerezo

Olga Kotnowska

COFFEE

Sweet surprises from the strange new kids on the block There is something lovely about rocking up to HanSo Café day after day in Madrid: the people behind the bar.

Words by OLGA KOTNOWSKA Pictures by ADRIÁN CANO FRANCO

A good cup of coffee is something to behold. For

Chinese community working outside of the bazaar

devoted fans, seeking out a great cup of joe encourages

shops and tiendas de alimentacíon (food kiosks) that

the sacrifice of certain things—savings, time or daily

line the streets.

plans. It’s worth traveling the extra distance, even when

For Chinese entrepreneurs to own a café in the heart

there are other options closer to home.

of the city, the HanSo team is ushering in a change of

I suppose this goes for many pleasures in life. When you

mindset. The HanSo crew is subtly adding a new story to

know there is something good out there, the notion of

Madrid’s diverse social landscape. The team is changing

settling for less seems almost ridiculous.

the image of the Chinese population in the city.

HanSo is an example of the impetus that Madrid needs

The people behind the bar

to catalyze a change of attitude and perception towards

HanSo is the newest addition to Madrid’s budding specialty coffee scene, and my current favorite spot

Madrileños who are stuck in the old way of thinking.

that’s worth the extra travel time. The joy of HanSo

Strange can be solid

extends beyond the drinks. The loveliest part about

Of course, owning a café is far from normal. Many

rocking up to HanSo day after day is the people behind

people talk about it. Only a few, in the end, achieve it.

the bar.

In Madrid, the business landscape is only just recovering

Nico works together with his wife Eva and younger

from years of struggle. Additionally, the food and

brother Enrique to make one hell of a barista team.

beverage market favors traditional Spanish flavors.

In just under three months, the HanSo staff members

HanSo introduces new combinations and ingredients,

have become friends. I stop in for a hot beverage nearly

having firmly established itself as the strange new kid

every day, and end up chatting with the smiling faces

on the block.

behind the bar every time. They leave me smiling.

HanSo delights Madrileños with excellent coffee and an elaborate menu. The shop serves matcha lattes, red velvet

Changing stereotypes

hot chocolates, various tea infusions and other sweet

Despite being a large, contemporary, influential

creations that Eva makes. Delicious bites include matcha

European city, Madrid is still working on battling

cakes, cheesecakes, Portuguese tarts and many more.

prejudice against people from foreign communities.

Something seems to be working for the HanSo team,

Even today, it’s unusual to see individuals from the

because the café is gaining popularity every day.

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COFFEE

Putting heart and soul into the business

Pursuing passions

The success of HanSo is not only a result of the crew’s

Today, Nico and Eva have carved out space for

welcoming demeanor, or of the insistence on quality

themselves to explore their own passion projects in

ingredients and original recipes. What I find makes

different corners of the café.

the most impact on the café’s already visible presence

Nico and Enrique explore coffee varieties and play with

in Madrid’s coffee scene is the family’s firm belief in

new equipment at the front bar. Eva lets her creative

working together.

desires run wild in the kitchen, adding new ingredients

Nico assures me that the notion of a married couple

to the cakes and tarts that, as in their previous café, have

working together is quite normal within Chinese

become the speciality of HanSo. Everyday, customers

culture. Couples and families often work together.

swoon as they eat spoonfuls of Eva’s matcha cakes,

Working alongside Eva, he explains, strengthens their

cheesecakes and tarts.

marriage and business because they share the same

Albert Einstein once said, “A ship is always safe at

goal. They put their hearts and souls into all they do.

the shore, but it is not what it is built for.” HanSo, the

This philosophy enabled the couple to launch a café

strange new kid on the block that offers fresh, new

prior to opening HanSo. The modest-sized café in the

flavors in the heart of Madrid, has risen to the challenge

capital’s outer suburb of Usera was their testing space

of trying new things and working hard, to be proud and

for HanSo. There, Nico and Eva became comfortable

reap success. ¢

with the intricacies that come with working behind

facebook.com/hansocafe

the bar or in a kitchen. Eva developed her first cakes, which became the talk of the suburb. Nico pursued his knowledge of coffee.

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PUBLIC SPACES

Breathing new life into the city Green architecture is changing urban centers worldwide. A new initiative gives Madrid a fresh chance to make space for nature.

Words & pictures by MARIEKE ELISAH LENSVELT

Racing cars, wide roads, and horizon-blocking buildings: this is the city as we know it. Urban centers around the world have been growing horizontally and vertically, using up space that once was vast green nature. And not without effect. The effects of climate change are becoming more visible every day.

However, change is on the way. Perhaps we can still

“It’s time to give nature’s comeback a push in the right direction.”

keep our winters cold and summers warm. Can urban society truly make space for nature?

Following the example of European cities, the Madrid

Living, breathing architectural masterpieces

city council and structural engineering company Arup

So what does this entail? The most famous and existing

launched the project Madrid+Natural in December

example of smart green architecture is the Caixa

2015. The project is “a series of guidelines to tackle

Forum. A beautiful remnant of industrial architecture,

the global concern of climate change through multiple

this former power plant is now an architectural

local solutions.”

masterpiece, a flawless combination of old and new.

Don’t get me wrong—Madrid’s green stretches like Casa

Most importantly, the space flaunts a beautiful example

del Campo and Retiro Park offer the city dweller a quick

of a vertical garden.

fix of nature. However, climate change is a larger issue

Following the trend of building vertically rather than

than parks or a few trees can resolve. Climate change

horizontally, such vertical landscapes make perfect

is real and upon us: floods, droughts, air pollution and

use of unused space. Designed by Patrick Blanc, the

a loss of biodiversity are common results of extreme

mastermind behind many other European vertical

urban heat.

urban gardens, Caixa Forum’s multifunctional green

One area to consider is eco-friendly architecture

walls are much more than just easy on the eyes. They

and infrastructure, which reshapes urban centers

improve air quality and acoustics, and protect the

in a sustainable way. Madrid is known for blazing

building from weather fluctuations. According to Arup,

hot summers, leaving city streets empty after every

the Caixa Forum has new projects on the way; more

citizen who has the means to travel has left for the

wallpaper jungles in the making.

summer. Arup and Madrid intend to beat the heat by

A lesser-known but equally impressive example is the

implementing architectural adjustments and solutions,

Madrid Rio park. On the outskirts of the city center,

large and small, across the city.

this master project was completed in 2011 through

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PUBLIC SPACES

a collaboration between the Madrid design studio

Change on the way

MRIO Arquitectos and the Rotterdam based studio

How does Arup envision making Madrid a greener

West 8. Reminiscent of the way Georges-Eugene

city? Madrid+Natural aims to implement a wide range

Haussmann bulldozed medieval Paris in the 19th

of projects. These include complex irrigation systems

century to create the long characteristic boulevards

to prevent seasonal flooding, and simple hands-on

and royal gardens, Madrid Rio reclaimed the banks

solutions, such as installing awnings to provide shade

of the Manzares river. Formerly the polluted highway

on busy public squares. Other solutions include painting

M30, this 6km stretch is now an oasis of lush, natural

rooftops white, installing water features in public

public space, seamlessly interweaving highway and

spaces, supporting the creation of more green walls

nature. An impressive list of architecture awards is

and rooftop gardens, and engaging the community in

proof of its architectural ingenuity.

urban farming.

Green architecture can also be found in less obvious

According to Arup, making a city greener, healthier and

examples. The majestic Palacio Cibeles was renovated

generally more pleasant can start from something as

in 2011, creating the cultural center CentroCentro.

simple as planting seeds on unused terrain. Combine

This transformation is a good example of how a 20th

all these minor initiatives in cities worldwide, and the

century building can be updated with contemporary

difference will be become evident in the long term.

sustainable building strategies. Optimizing green

Madrid is acknowledging and tackling the urban heat

material, natural lighting and indoor air cooling with

problem with this initiative, but don’t hang back to

energy efficient systems, CentroCentro represents the

comfortably in your chair just yet. It’s time to give

new Madrid.

nature’s comeback a push in the right direction. ¢

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LOCAL HEROES

Boa Mistura A street art group from Madrid is changing the world through art. We met one of the members of Boa Mistura to discover how they’re doing just that.

Words by MARTA AGUILAR CEREZO Picture courtesy of BOA MISTURA

One day in Madrid as the sun began to disappear, the

Most importantly, they are able to touch people’s

lights in each window slowly started to turn off and

souls. “Doctors heal your heart, mechanics fix cars,

streets started to empty out, a van burst into the city.

and artists touch your hearts,” Ruben (“RDick”) said

Five young men jumped out, quick and precise, and

when he spoke at TEDxMadrid. Boa Mistura doesn’t

they left a message crossroad by crossroad.

just speak for Madrid anymore, but for the whole

The next morning the city woke up to the scene of a

wide world.

restless hunt for poetry on the sidewalks of Madrid

We learned something instantly when we went to meet

before it all faded away. “A demonstration of love from

Boa Mistura at their dazzling studio in the heart of

artists and poets, for our beloved Madrid,” it read.

Madrid. Something great can be born only by putting

We knew it was only a temporary thing, which made

passion and hard work into it.

it finding every single verse in each corner of the city

Pablo (“Arkoh”) explains: “At first only we painted

even more special. Somehow this poetry was made for

graffiti, but we started to mix and blend not only on the

us as citizens, and we each felt like a part of that poem

wall, but with each others knowledge. A civil engineer,

spread all over town.

an architect, a graphic designer and a publicist came together to make a single move.” Diversity and a clear

Ten hands, five minds, and a little paint

vision opened their mind to new ways of working.

They hang from the ceilings some meters above the

Boa Mistura was already painting in places like Berlin

ground or run barefoot with children in the Brazilian

and Norway when they changed their path drastically

slums. They are acrobats, activists and artists, but

by going to South Africa after being invited by an urban

especially a group of friends from Madrid: Juan

art gallery. Their first project in a township changed

“Derko” Jaume, Pablo “Arkoh” Ferreiro, Javier “Pahg”

their lives, along with their way of working. After South

Serrano, Rubén “RDick” Martín, and Pablo “Purone”

Africa, Boa Mistura traveled to São Paulo and Panamá,

Puron. Collectively, they are Boa Mistura.

leaving huge footprints behind. The project Crossroads

Proud of their origins in Alameda de Osuna, their

was born.

neighborhood on the outskirts of Madrid, this group

The street is Boa Mistura’s common language,

has been making a career from their passions since

their roots. Graffiti taught them to lose the fear of

2001. Ten hands and five minds dedicated to a single

breaking rules. “You don’t establish limits yourself,”

idea can transform a façade, a building or a whole

says Arkoh, whom we talked to about fear, change,

street—with the help of a little paint.

positivity and more.

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LOCAL HEROES

Graffiti and vandalism are often connected.

I guess you’ve discussed this topic many times?

What is Crossroads about?

Well, at first graffiti gave us no fear of breaking the

tool for change in places where there aren’t many

rules to work on the street. That’s what we do and

resources. Modest communities are where we really

what we like: working on the street. What happens is

think our work can generate a bigger impact. Because

that we work in an opposite direction to graffiti as it is

these are places where nobody really wants to invest,

perceived, or as it has been understood for many years.

we think there’s an enormous receptivity to any kind of

Vandalism means doing something destructive. And

improvement. And in our case, that’s painting.

I would say there is a difference from what we do. We

There are projects that are very special, but maybe São

paint with a much wider range of communication, we

Paulo and South Africa are the ones that have changed

write to the world with messages trying to improve

us the most as individuals. You change something

what is out there.

and you come back home changed, and that change is

We always ask ourselves: “What we are about to do, will

reflected in the following projects.

This project is more a philosophy of using art as a

it make things better?” If the answer is yes then we do

We have chosen to do something that hooks most people:

Finally, after all the places you have seen and traveled to, would you still choose Madrid as a place to stay? What does Madrid mean to Boa Mistura?

positive messages, universal values that captivate them.

Yes. Madrid is our home, our roots. As a group we were

So you manage to connect with a vast majority of people,

born here, and that makes it very important. As much

but we are never going to please everyone.

as I travel, it is important to always have a place that you

it, and if not, we don’t. We care because we know that we are working somewhere that is not ours, it is public space that belongs to everyone.

can call home. We have a lot of affection for this city,

Where have you found the most obstacles to creating your works of art?

and the more we step outside the more fondly we feel.

The more you travel, the more you appreciate the good

In Madrid, because we live here. This is where we try to

things about your home, and that’s what happens to

work more, because we love Madrid, but for many years

us with Madrid. Hopefully we will be able do more

we have been demonized. This is starting to change,

things here in the future, because we are really looking

but for a long time we have been persecuted and it has

forward to it.

been practically impossible for us to work in Madrid.

Follow Boa Mistura’s work and watch how they are

We are now starting to talk with the city council, which

changing the world through art. There’s much more

for the moment at least has the willingness to listen. But

to come from these five young men and their passion

we believe in what we do and we like to take a gamble.

for change.

Thank you, Boa Mistura for opening your doors to us.

Tell us how working in South Africa changed your perspective.

See you next time, in Madrid or across the ocean, on a façade, on a rooftop. Who knows? ¢

For a couple of weeks, not knowing what to do, we started

boamistura.com

walking around the neighborhood, talking to residents and children.“Suddenly we saw that the neighbors had many things to say and that had to be taken into account.

MADRID

“You change something and you come back home changed.�

116

OUTDOORS

Madrid’s secret sea Perhaps you’re always busy, always heading somewhere specific, never finding the time to look up. But when you do, extraordinary things happen—as proven by Madrid’s secret sea.

Words by MARTA AGUILAR CEREZO Pictures by MANUEL AZURMENDI

MADRID

118

Walking along Calle Alcalá, almost until Puerta del Sol, we saw a procession of majestic buildings one after the other, like a catwalk for haute couture. This time, instead of the facades being the center of attention, it seemed that we were the ones marching in formation, and they were looking at us.

High up from their perspective, little birds perch on reddish rooftops, colorful tiles blaze from a distance, and dancing plants swing through old balconies. White curtains flutter, threatening to jump through an open window from some of the tallest buildings on the city’s most crowded square. Up here, it’s a different world.

Madrid is about living in two different worlds at the same time. Once you find the best way to get up there, the city’s best kept secret is revealed: an endless sea with a horizon that stretches as far as the eye can see.

Maybe you’ve been called gato (cat) at some point, if you are from Madrid. This goes back to a spring day in 1085, when Spain was taken by the Muslims and King Alfonso VI’s troops started to approach the impregnable ramparts of Madrid to reconquer it from the Arabs.

Many failed before, but that day, an agile soldier separated from the group—and only with the help of his knife—climbed the fortifications and successfully switched the Arabic flag for the Christian one.

From then on, he was nicknamed el gato (the cat), a name that passed on to his descendants, and on to everyone from Madrid. Maybe this is why Madrileños love to climb to the rooftops, and from up there, escape the city’s chaos and stare at the horizon.

De Madrid al cielo—from Madrid to the sky—is the city’s motto, true to the idea of how much we like to try to reach it. And to do that, you need to know where to find the right stairs to climb.

El Círculo de Bellas Artes Located at Calle Alcalá, this was built in 1880 thanks to the efforts of a small group of artists. Now, its objective is to disseminate artistic and cultural manifestations

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OUTDOORS

from a plural perspective. Its rooftop was, not so many

town. From here, it’s possible to spot an amazing array

years ago, a big open-air desert area that showcased

of tiles and roofs from a different perspective.

spontaneous photography exhibitions. It has changed a

In the old part of town, in one of the buildings nestled in

lot and has become one of the trendiest bars to see the

between Gran Via’s narrow streets, you will find an old

sunset from.

hostel where you can spy on the rooftops nearby and be a little closer to Madrid’s sky. Views reserved only

El Corte Inglés at Preciados Street

for a few.

The ninth floor of one of the most visited buildings

Rooftops are our private seas, and it’s hard to put into

in Madrid, El Corte Inglés at Calle Preciados, has a

words the serenity we find here. So, if we are nowhere

beautiful terrace just above the most bustling place in

to be found on the ground, come join us up here. ¢

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ART

A home for lovers of art, books, and coffee An art gallery, book store, coffee shop and artist’s residency in Madrid brings together multiple passions and purposes in one eclectic space.

Words by OLGA KOTNOWSKA Pictures by ADRIÁN CANO FRANCO

Swinton and Grant are the consequence of curiosity: curiosity about the process of creating art, and curiosity about what happens when you offer a space where like-minded people can come together and share their passion and interest with their community.

The soul of this project is perhaps most notably driven by its creators’ respect for art. Goyo Villasevil and Sergio Bang, the proprietors of Swinton and Grant, express their gratitude for artists and their provocative, beautiful, important work by offering a space where the artists, their creations—whether through actual bodies of work or documented in books—and the general public meet.

“I didn’t want to end up with a cloud over my head for the rest of my life, asking: what would have happened if you had followed your dream?”

Swinton and Grant is an art gallery, a bookstore, a coffee shop, and an artist residency in one.

How does it all function as a whole?

interest and are dropping by. This space has become a

Goyo: What we have here is basically a space divided

But it also functions as a meeting point for artists and

into three separate sections, each operating as its

the public who are interested in what they are creating.

own business. This is why we appointed different

Goyo: The gallery is, in a way, our honorable way of

names: Ciudadano Café and Librería (coffee shop and

saying thank you to all of the artists—the ones that have

bookstore) and Swinton Gallery.

inspired, intrigued, entertained and compelled us to

Sergio: As a whole, this place functions exactly how

think—by offering them a respectable space where they

we intended it to: as a community for both artists and

can exhibit their work.

those interested in art, especially street art. Now, more

Each exhibition lasts for about six months, with some

artists are becoming aware of this space and what we’re

time in between so that the space can breathe a little,

doing here, and so more and more artists are showing

and be ready for the interpretation of the next artist.

meeting point for artists to chat and even to collaborate.

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ART

Sergio: For those artists who do not yet have enough

not now, never. I didn’t want to end up with a cloud over

work to make up a collection, or simply cannot exhibit

my head for the rest of my life, asking: what would have

for whatever reason, the coffee shop offers a big wall

happened if you had followed your dream. Then Goyo

where individual pieces are hung and shown to whoever

and I started talking, looking for spaces, and slowly

passes through the shop. These pieces are of course

turning ideas into physical forms.

on sale. They not only add to the eclectic ambience

clients and members of the community to see the

Does the community—both artists and those interested in art—take the ideas created in Swinton and Grant outside of this space?

range of beautiful, creative work that is currently

Sergio: As part of our work with the artists, we try to

being produced.

bring the art onto the streets, across public walls. This

Apart from this wall, the coffee shop is a space that

is so that individuals that wouldn’t normally come into

functions both as a meeting point and a space to relax,

our shop or any other space like this, have a chance to

offering organic products and sweets homemade by

see what people are creating. Perhaps they could be

local Madrileños.

inspired to think about the various messages that are

Goyo: Yes, and the bookstore, tucked neatly into the

being displayed, or to simply appreciate the aesthetics.

corner there, is the consequence of very, very careful

Goyo: I have to emphasize that more people who

selection! Everything that we choose to sell, and

encounter these transformed walls are actually starting

therefore support—be it books, comics, zines or even

to understand that the art that is being displayed is not

tote bags made from recycled material—is something

vandalism, but rather something creative, entertaining,

that we care about, or something that is very influential,

and intelligent. We know there’s a growing appreciation

or recommended, or for whatever reason we believe it

of street art in Madrid because people come in and tell

ought to be available to our public.

us themselves!

of the coffee shop, but also offer a unique opportunity for artists to show what they have done, and for our

Sergio: The artist residency takes in artists both from Spain and from across the border. As part of the

Through their modest yet passionate efforts to initiate

residency, the artist has the apartment, the coffee shop

conversations, collaboration, and appreciation of

and the gallery as spaces to work within. Often, an

local and artistic projects, both Goyo and Sergio have

artist works in the gallery, as they like to incorporate

taken on a rather important role in Madrid’s quiet, yet

the space during the process of their work.

growing, street art scene. ¢

We just love observing an artist consumed by their work,

facebook.com/SwintonAndGrant.

it is so inspiring, and so very interesting to see the process.

It is something quite unique to be able to witness.

How did this ambitious project, Swinton and Grant, come about?

Sergio: This space is the physical form of a longtime dream of mine! I love art, and I love books, and I have always wanted to open up a space that combined them both. After working many years in an office, I thought: if

MADRID

“We just love observing an artist consumed by their work. It is so inspiring and interesting to see the process. It is something quite unique to be able to witness.�

MOBILITY

What the underground tunnels of Madrid reveal Words & pictures by MARTA AGUILAR CEREZO and MARIEKE ELISAH LENSVELT

An automated female voice echoes through the

Lavapiés

underground hall. A train makes its appearance, guided

Back in the 90s, collectives of libertarians, anarchists

by an unorchestrated symphony of track racket and

and squatters settled in the neighborhood. In the

electronic sounds. Doors open routinely, followed by

second decade of the 20th century, about 50% of the

a hasty bustle of footsteps. Doors close, people leave,

neighborhood population was foreign. With large

and silence returns. The train swoops away once again,

segments of immigrants, Lavapiés springs as a cultural

into the darkness, leaving behind a warm underground

point where life takes place on all corners. Even the

draft, blowing your hair with a scented tunnel breeze.

famous Pablo Picasso lived at number 5 of Calle San

This complicated web of underground tracks is not just

Pedro Martir during his stay in Madrid between 1897

the most efficient way to get around Madrid, but also

and 1898. Madrid, especially Lavapiés became an

tells a hidden story culture and history.

influence in the way he saw the world from then on.

Goya

Atocha

Any chance to honor their rich art historical history,

Madrid, 11th of March of 2004. Lights slowly started

Spain takes. Metro stop Goya, opened on the 14th of

to brighten, while the morning metro silence softly

June 1924, is one of many that carries the name of a

awakened commuting the Spanish workforce. A

Spanish art historical genius. His engravings, reflecting

deafening sound abruptly ended what was supposed to

the darkness of Goya’s mind during the French

be a gentle morning. In less than five minutes 10 bombs

occupation of Spain, now adorn the walls of Goya

rewrote history: Madrid suffered the worst terrorist

station platform.

attack ever perpetrated in Spain.

CURIOSITIES • The deepest station of Madrid is Cuatro Caminos.

It goes so far down under, that its depth is equivalent to the height of a 20-story building.

• T hroughout the extensive subway network of Madrid there are two “ghost stations.” The first, the old station Chamberí, ceased to operate in 1966 and can now be visited as a museum. The second is Arroyo del Fresno, a stop on Line 7 that was built but never used.

• T he length of all lines combined is a grand total of 324 kilometers. This makes Madrid the seventh largest underground network of the world after Moscow, Tokyo, Paris, London, Shanghai and New York.

• T he Opera station houses a museum dedicated to Caños del Peral, an ancient water source that supplied water to 16th century locals.

MADRID

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Robin Cox

129

WELKOM

Rotterdam Rotterdam is an old city with a new heart. It is the only city in the Netherlands that has the look of a real metropolis. Famous architecture and many fancy modern big buildings and typical old, tiny Dutch houses are the mix that makes this city so special. What we love most about Rotterdam is that the city might seem quite hard to get at first, but the trick is that you have to crack it like a nut.

We just can’t help but love our city! And we hope you will end up loving it as much as we do.

MEET THE TEAM

Laura M. Giurge

Laura Mitchell

Wouter Vocke

HISTORY

An old city with a new heart Little red lights in the streets of Rotterdam mark the area of Rotterdam that was destroyed in 1940.

This is De Brandgrens, the Fire Boundary.

Words & pictures by WOUTER VOCKE

ROTTERDAM

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75 YEARS AFTER THE BOMBARDMENTS

It has been more than 75 years since Rotterdam’s historical city center was destroyed. It’s a good moment to commemorate the harm that was done to the city of Rotterdam, but also to “celebrate” the new city, if you will. The boundary, coined De Brandgrens (the Fire Boundary) in 2010, marks a cultural route through modern-day Rotterdam.

15 minutes of destruction On 14 May 1940, the German bombardment lasting

90 German Heinkel planes 96,000 kilograms of bombs 30,000 houses destroyed 950 Rotterdammers killed 80,000 left homeless

less then 15 minutes destroyed the center of Rotterdam.

An old city with a new heart

Because of the dry spring weather, a hard wind, and not

In May 2010, 70 years after the bombing, the Brandgrens

enough water pressure—the waterlines were destroyed

was finished. The Fire Boundary reveals a 12 kilometer-

by the bombs too—the fire lasted for days. Buildings

long scar through Rotterdam, marked by red lights

and streets that weren’t hit by German bombs were

in the pavement. The red lights contain the image of

destroyed in the fire afterwards.

sculptor Ossip Zardine’s famous statue ‘The Destroyed

Some facts and figures: 90 German Heinkel planes

City’ (1951-1953), next to images of flames and an airplane.

dropped a total of 96,000 kilograms of bombs.

If you follow the boundary you’ll walk through the

About 30,000 houses were destroyed, including the

sometimes-visible past of Rotterdam, feeling and

Zoo, 32 churches, and two synagogues. Of the

seeing where the old city was destroyed and the new

Rotterdammers themselves, 950 were killed and

city was rebuilt. They don’t call Rotterdam “an old city

80,000 became homeless.

with a new heart” for no reason. ¢

Time to commemorate Today, if you are in or around the city center at about 1:30pm, you might notice the bells of the World Trade Center carillon ringing. If you ever wonder why, the ringing of the bells marks the time of the bombardment.

Every day, between 1:27pm and 1:40pm, they remind us of the blackest page in the history of Rotterdam.

In 2000, an initiative was undertaken to mark the periphery of the bombardment: to commemorate the bombing of 1940 and create a visible boundary around the destroyed area. For a few years, huge spotlights lit up the boundary every 14th of May, until the city came up with a permanent marking.

ROTTERDAM

ARCHITECTURE

At home in Moderndam Rotterdam is at the forefront of modern architecture today.

This started just over a century ago in 1898, with the construction of Europe’s first skyscraper, known to locals as the White House.

Words by LAURA MITCHELL Pictures courtesy of HUIS SONNEVELD / JOHANNES SCHWARTZ

Huis Sonneveld (Sonneveld House) was built in the 1930s as a fine example of Nieuwe Bouwen (New Buildings), a Dutch version of functionalist housing.

At the time of its building, Huis Sonneveld was a modern home complete with the latest gadgets of the era, including an audio system in every room, an electrical device to summon the servants, an in-house elevator to carry wood from the basement to the living room, even a shower with 10 shower heads!

A conscious choice to live modern

“Colors like cornflower blue, egg yolk yellow, and vermillion suit their chosen areas perfectly.”

Huis Sonneveld is a modern house in which Le Corbusier’s five main principles were enriched by unusual warmth in the interiors. Dutch architects

functional way of living, in keeping with the Bauhaus

Brinkman and Van der Vlugt, also known for the Van

principle known as Gesamtkunstwerk (a total work of

Nelle Factory and Feyenoord Stadium, designed

art), which Mr. Sonneveld admired and successfully

the house just following the Great Depression. The

celebrated in his harmoniously designed home.

architects took over every detail in the interior layout, even deciding how the furniture was to be arranged.

Revisiting the past

But the duo also worked closely with the Sonneveld

Entering this 1930s dream home in 2016, the bold but

family, choosing colors for rooms to reflect each family

harmonious color combinations are instant eye candy

member’s personal preferences.

for my mental mood board. My favorite space is the

When the family moved in in 1933, they made the

bright teal bathroom, which had me mesmerized

conscious decision to “live modern” and therefore

from the moment I laid eyes on the beautiful bold

discarded all of their old furniture. They replaced

wall of tiles. The curved edges of the main staircase

everything with brand new furniture, including tubular

and tubular custom-made Gispen furniture contrast

steel chairs and tables from the Dutch company

beautifully with the warm, clear hues of the walls

Gispen—a dream come true for me and my fellow

and floors, making for an almost dream-like experience

Gispen adorers! The entire home was designed for a

as you wander from room to room.

ROTTERDAM

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138

ARCHITECTURE

Colors like cornflower blue, egg yolk yellow, and

Architecture Institute across the road, it was not

vermillion suit their chosen areas perfectly. These bright

only possible to preserve the house but also to

colors are used bravely in spaces like the bedrooms and

reconstruct it meticulously, including its original color

dining room as red cabinets, blue curtains and yellow

schemes and furniture.

floors. The calculated use of color and functional

This little treasure is tucked away on the edge of the

furniture placement bring a welcome calm in contrast

museum park and continues to inspire 21st century

to my own home, making Huis Sonneveld my second

designers, architects and color lovers today. Sonneveld

favorite house in Rotterdam.

House shows how a prominent Rotterdam family embraced modernism, and how a choice to live modern

A new experience

colored their everyday surroundings. ¢

Huis Sonneveld opened to the public in 2001 after

sonneveldhouse.com

undergoing renovation. Assisted by the original architectural

drawings

archived

at

the

New

ROTTERDAM

OUTDOORS

Rediscovering Kralingse Plas Our Rotterdam correspondent indulges her passion for photography in this stunning visual diary of Kralingse Plas.

Words & pictures by LAURA M. GIURGE

ROTTERDAM

141

142

OUTDOORS

Moving to Rotterdam was by far one of the greatest moments of my life. Among others, it meant that I would finally earn enough to go on weekend city trips.

I would be finally able to visit and discover all those European cities that I dreamed of, such as Barcelona, Porto, London, Paris, and more.

But what about Rotterdam? What about my city, a place I would call home for years to come?

Back in 2012, when I first moved to Rotterdam, I decided to become more Dutch and go jogging. That was when I started to make my very first discoveries in Rotterdam. And when I first discovered Kralingse Plas, what a discovery it was!

Kralingse Plas is an ideal location away from the big city, yet where you can still catch a glimpse of the skyline on the horizon. My photos show you how I first discovered Kralingse Plas: a gorgeous landscape spotted at the crack of dawn.

Three years later, I went to rediscover the same place.

This time, I chose another spectacular moment of the day: dusk. Here’s what I saw.

What’s out there for you to discover in your own city?

Buy an alarm clock, pick up your bike or your running shoes, and go explore! ¢

lauramgiurge.com

ROTTERDAM

LOCAL HEROES

Marloes de Vries She’s won awards and has written her own book. She illustrates for popular magazine Flow and draws children’s books.

She’s a hand-lettering queen and she lives in Rotterdam.

If you haven’t yet heard of multi-talented graphic designer and artist Marloes de Vries, it’s about time you did.

Words by WOUTER VOCKE Pictures courtesy of MARLOES DE VRIES

It’s remarkable that someone from a rural, quaint part of the Netherlands leaves everything behind and moves to a big city like Rotterdam.

So, why Rotterdam?

Because it was the biggest difference from where I’m from.

them didn’t even know me! This city suits me better than a small town. I’ve got everything I need right here: friends, art, good food, buzz, inspiration. When I miss my family, I just drive up north.

I grew up in a small town in Drenthe, in the northeastern

What are your favorite spots in Rotterdam?

part of the Netherlands. I wasn’t used to big cities, but I

Vroesenpark is right around the corner from my house.

felt ready for a change. The biggest change I could think

I love walking there, or having a picnic there in the

of, the opposite of a small town, was Rotterdam. So I

summer. I live in the northern part of the city, and it

moved here quite impulsively without really thinking it

has that village feeling to it, which I really like. Lof der

through. Best decision of my life, though.

Zoetheid is one of my favorite spots to eat cake. The owners, Anastasia and Elena, are lovely. I used to go

Did it take long to adjust?

to art school with Anastasia, so I knew her cooking and

I felt at home the minute I came here. I had been to

baking skills were amazing. I love Picknick for lunch,

Rotterdam twice before moving here, so I had no idea

you must try the pulled pork there.

what to expect, but neighbors and locals made me

Okay, enough about food! I also love grabbing my bike

feel welcome. I couldn’t find a house at first, because

and just cycling across the city really fast. There is so

I didn’t have a lot of money. Literally over 100 people

much contrast between the different parts of the city:

helped me through Facebook, and through a network

nature when you bike up north and the city skyline near

of friends and family, to find a place to live. Many of

the south.

“I needed to move because I have the need to feel inspired.

Where I live is essential for me to create.”

ROTTERDAM

145

LOCAL HEROES

“I think I’ve got the Rotterdam mentality going on: less talking, let’s get busy.”

What projects are you currently working on?

A lot! I think I’ve got the Rotterdam mentality going on:

How does Rotterdam influence the rest of your work?

less talk, let’s get busy.

Rotterdam inspires me on a daily basis. There’s so

I’m working on some pieces for a small exhibition,

much going on here, also in the smallest details. People

and I’m working on two books at the same time. For

are open-minded, they don’t take crap and the city is

both I’m the author and illustrator, which is a challenge!

quite unique. It suits me, so I feel like in my work I have

One of the books is a graphic novel about depression,

come closer to what I really want to create, because of

which can be quite heavy at times.

the city.

I make illustrations for Flow Magazine every couple of months, work on some smaller projects for magazines

Where will you be in five years?

and I’m also teaching. I’m also in the very slow process

I never plan too far ahead. I have plans, but I never

of writing and illustrating a picture book. I’ve been

know where I’m going to end up, I never expected to

working on it for years but I am never satisfied.

live in Rotterdam, for example. I would like to have a couple of picture books to my name, I hope to do more

From where do you get your inspiration?

art and have an exhibition in New York. I hope I’ll have

People, experiences. I try to travel as much I can to see

traveled a lot and maybe I’ll live abroad. But I don’t

as much as possible, meet new people, hear their stories.

know, to be honest. I will see where this ship sails me,

I also read a lot, and music can trigger feelings that

but for now I like being in this harbor.

inspire me to write or draw new things. I also needed to move because I have the need to feel inspired. So,

Thanks for the lovely interview, Marloes. Truly one of

where I live is essential for me to create.

the funniest and most down-to-earth people I’ve ever met. We hope you’ll stay a while in this harbor before you set sail for the rest of the world! ¢

marloesdevries.com

ROTTERDAM

149

151

ARCHITECTURE

Giving nicknames to everything Words by WOUTER VOCKE Illustrations by FREDERIQUE MATTI

Rotterdammers like to give nicknames to buildings,

One of the best examples is

bridges, statues and street names. It’s so common, that

without a doubt De Kuip (the tub).

most people don’t even know the official name. Maybe

This epic football stadium opened

it’s because Rotterdammers are quite direct and don’t

in 1937 as Stadion Feijenoord but

feel connected to fancy names.

people started calling it the tub

Koningshavenbrug

because of its shape.

The

Centraal Station

beautiful

new

Central

Station has numerous nicknames.

Some

other

common

Shark’s Mouth, Cone, Bag of

nicknames include De Zwaan

Chips and Big Mouth to name

(the swan) for the Erasmusbrug, (pencil)

for

a few. But most people already

Het

Potlood

named it Station Kapsalon, named after the notorious

the

Blaaktoren

Rotterdam snack with kebab, chips and melted cheese

(kettle) for Blaak Station, De Hef for the monumental

in a tin foil box.

Koningshavenbrug and Het Scheermes (razor blade)

De Erasmusbrug

Fluitketel

for the World Trade Centre.

When

the

amazing

Markthal was

The controversial Santa Claus sculpture by Paul

even a competition for people to

McCarthy is known by everybody as Kabouter Butt

opened

its

doors,

there

come up with a nickname. The

De Markthal

Plug. Just because it just looks like a garden gnome with a butt plug, let’s be honest.

winner was Koopboog, something like shopping arch. Unfortunately, our personal favorites Vreetkeet (eat/munch shack) and Groentegrot (vegetable cave) didn’t make it.

ROTTERDAM

152

TYPE ARTIKEL/ARTIKEL NAAM

STADSNAAM

153

Founding Friends We all need friends to bring us further in life.

Therefore we have teamed up with like-minded inspiring initiatives. Brands that support our collective intention, who breathe city life and culture, and have ‘people’ as one of their main core values. We feel both lucky and humbled to have these great founding friends on board in making our journal a reality. Thank you!

FOUNDING FRIENDS

TrendWatching TrendWatching is the world’s leading and most loved

our Free Publications, Premium Service, Trend Events,

trend firm. Powered by tw:in, our network of 3,000+

Presentations and Workshops, we help future-focused

global trend spotters, and an in-house team of trend

professionals build brands that matter, products that

experts on five continents, TrendWatching has been

delight and campaigns people can’t stop talking about.

delivering cross-industry insight into the key shifts in consumer behaviour since 2002. Whether it’s through

trendwatching.com

London | New York | Singapore | Amsterdam

FOUNDING FRIENDS

Let’s start to redefine how work is done.

Calling the inspired ones. The corporate shakers,

Originating in Amsterdam, Spaces was built on the idea

business nomads, freelancers, energetic entrepreneurs,

that success breeds more success. That’s why we’ve

international workers, mobile movers, project teams,

cultivated a community of members who are thinkers,

start-ups and well-established companies.

achievers and imagineers. A place where you can meet

Welcome to Spaces — your place to work. Where you’ll

new people by just turning around and saying hello.

watch businesses grow because of people and ideas.

We’ve built workspaces that suit your every need. And

Where you’ll surround yourself with those who love

our energetic staff attends to all the details so you can

what they do. And where nothing beats a mental block

focus on your next big idea. Just plug into our energy

like a really great cup of coffee served up by one of our

and watch your world accelerate.

expert baristas.

spacesworks.com

FOUNDING FRIENDS

May the student in you live forever There is something intoxicating about the student spirit.

designed to encourage learning, discovery and sparking a

Curious, open, free-thinking, adventurous. Spurred by

new connection. Everyone is welcome to kickback, relax,

the urge to meet a stranger, pursue a dream, seize the

play a game of ping pong and soak up some of that groovy

day. It’s the kind of excitement that can be contagious.

ambience. We thrive on the buzz of community and take

And frankly, we think everyone could benefit from

great pride in fostering the kind of atmosphere where

catching a bit of student fever. The Student Hotel is part

students, interns, tourists, business travelers and other

home for students, part hotel for students-at-heart. It’s

forms of globetrotters all come together. Whether our

where the energy and spontaneity of a university campus

guests stay for a night, a month, a summer, a semester or

meets the style and full-service amenities of a boutique

a year, they’ll be part of The Student Hotel family forever.

hotel. Our sleek communal spaces have been expressly

thestudenthotel.com

Rotterdam | Amsterdam | The Hague | Barcelona | Paris | Groningen Opening 2017: Eindhoven and Florence

FOUNDING FRIENDS

All the music on earth, in every room of your home, wirelessly Sonos is the smart speaker system that uses your WiFi

music or home theater sound to additional rooms is easy

to stream the music you love all through your home.

as well. Regular software updates with new features

One easy-to-use app gives you complete control of your

and services make sure your speakers just keep getting

entire home listening experience­–access all your music,

smarter, for as long as you own them.

pick any room or every room, and immerse yourself in pure, richly detailed sound.

ALL YOUR MUSIC, IN ANY ROOM

Sonos speakers combine built-in sensors and smart

Play a different song in the living room, bedroom, even

software to make your listening experience easy. Every

bathroom, or the same track in every room. With Sonos

speaker is simple to set up, no technical skills needed.

you have access to all the music in the world through an

Just download the free Sonos App, follow the prompts

ever-growing list of more than 60 streaming services

to connect to your WiFi, then fire up the music. Since

such as Apple Music, Spotify and Deezer and 100,000+

every Sonos speaker is part of one smart system, adding

free internet radio stations.

sonos.com

158

#CITYENTHUSIAST

Are you a #cityenthusiast?

With the launch of our first A City Made By People Journal and part of our Kickstarter campaign, we also launched an Instagram photo campaign. City enthusiasts from all over the world have shared their city photos with us by using the hashtag #acitymadebypeople and #cityenthusiast.

From an overwhelming amount of entries, we have picked the 20 best photos. We sincerely thank everyone for contributing their love of the city they live in!

PHOTO CAMPAIGN

Vienna @thewalk__

Bucharest @photom.studio

160

#CITYENTHUSIAST

Bucharest @paulexandru

Alphen a/d Rijn

@freeze_framer

Amsterdam @elianeroest

Minneapolis @edelstein

Rome @silviuseyes

Amsterdam @cloverocean

London @dragosbardac

Amsterdam @aestenmark PHOTO CAMPAIGN

Berlin @lenasberlin

161

#CITYENTHUSIAST

Bangalore @sreevathsav

Rotterdam @senns_less

Madrid @tiempodecerezas

Copenhagen @momhasapples

Lisbon @johnny_lenn

Minneapolis @ericmueller

Madrid @stranger

Bucharest @roaring.romania PHOTO CAMPAIGN

Larnaca @kyriakos_achilleos

162

PHOTOGRAPHY

Instagrammers capture the beauty of cities Who doesn’t love Instagram? In combination with our love for people, we thought it would be great to share our favorite local Instagrammers with you. They give us a different perspective on our city and make us want to go out and explore ourselves.

Let’s capture, show and share the beauty of our cities! #acitymadebypeople #cityenthusiast

Amsterdam

Minneapolis

@onahazymorning

@sfennema

@roy.son

@macenzo

@morgansheffphoto

@vincualize

@springfinnandco

@pdy

@phen.photo

@charlottevandenberg

@orbeq

@amsterdamcitizen_

@melnhesse

@joostbastmeijer

@ericmueller

photography

@danfergus

@brian_sweet

@jeffcs

@shineonyoucraydiamond

@maeandmany

Madrid

Bucharest

@tiempodecerezas

@_casta_

@jjasmiine

@andreea.mitran

@adriancanolo

@juncalroig

@ciprianrobu

@ccludina

@rincondtv

@joelfilip

@interesting_times

@vladnanca

@michenlo

@misswinter

@catalingeorgescu

@raidenbucharest

@manu_ywf

@stranger

@ioanaichim

@alexiaudriste

Rotterdam

Citinerary

@wout010

@instabruijn

@citinerary

@citinerary_bucharest

@urbanlines

@tessavdbaan

@citinerary_amsterdam

@citinerary_minneapolis

@vincentdemmenie

@patrickbuitendijk

@citinerary_rotterdam

@citinerary_madrid

@anoukvandesande

@robholland1908

@charlietash

@jeroenvandam

@raidenbucharest

@tessavdbaan

@ericmueller @andreea.mitran

@orbeq @vincentdemmenie @onahazymorning @joostbastmeijer

@adriancanolo

@onahazymorning @vincentdemmenie

@adriancanolo

@charlytash

@andreea.mitran

@ericmueller

@danfergus

Thanks!

A special thanks to those that have greatly supported us in making this journal a reality.

Kickstarter campaign

Moral support

Daniël van der Winden (web design)

Patrick Cox

Rens Verschuren (web development)

Johan Cox

Stephanie Mung Lam (sales) Ged Hawes (sales) Nicole Blommers (content & community) Maxi Meissner (PR) Rutger Bults (finance) Karim Maarek (crowdfunding expert)

Campaign Film Woutair Koomen & Vincent-Paolo Corputty

Evelien Cox David Barens Nathan Gabriele Steve Johnsen Pieter Ottevanger Kevin Rijnders Oscar Asmoarp Charlotte Krijger Paul Zeper

(Amsterdam) Ion Cojocaru & Alma Andreescu (Bucharest) Kenneth van Bochove (Rotterdam) Dan Fergus (Minneapolis) Fernando Esté Peña (Madrid)

Thanks to all the backers that have supported our project through the Kickstarter campaign, believing in what we’re out to achieve.

Last but not least, our network of captains and correspondents who have worked so hard in promoting our cause and created stunning content for this first issue.

And you know, without you, this would never exist. Thank you all!

CITINERARY.NET