CONTENTS Lesson 1 Asparagus
Green asparagus velouté ‘à la royale’ Broad bean and asparagus ragout with truffle juice Asparagus risotto
Lesson 5 Mediterranean mussels 18 22 28
’
32 34 38 42
’ Lesson 3 Artichokes
Artichoke tempura Carpaccio of artichokes with lemon Asian-style artichokes Pan-fried foie gras on a bed of artichokes Artichokes ‘à la barigoule’
48 52 56 60 64
’ Lesson 4 Provençal fish
Bream ceviche Filo-wrapped red mullet stuffed with garlic cream Roasted sea bass in a transparent parcel Fillet of bream with green risotto Crusted monkfish bouillabaisse
70 72 76 82 86
’ Portrait of José Ortiz
94 98 104 106 110
’
Lesson 2 Octopus and squid
Squid tempura Octopus salad with harissa Cuttlefish-ink risotto with baby squid brochettes Stuffed squid
Moules marinière Spicy mussel escabeche Provençal-style mussels au gratin Mussel risotto with saffron Mussel bouillabaisse
Lesson 9 Tomatoes
91
Lesson 6 Spices
Carrot velouté with cumin Aubergine caviar with cumin Tuna briks with allspice Lamb tagine with apricots and almonds Pears poached in spiced wine with aniseed biscuits
114 116 118 122 126
’ Lesson 7 Potatoes
Pistou soup with tomato and basil sorbet Ratte potatoes stuffed with salt cod brandade Potato and Roquefort pie Crêpes vonnassiennes
130 134 138 142
145
’
165 166 168 172 176
’
Battered sardines stuffed with minted brousse Sardines and oven-roasted tomatoes Sardine escabeche Sardine pasta
180 184 188 190
Lesson 11 Stuff it all!
Stuffed courgettes and onions Stuffed aubergines Brousse-filled ravioli Crispy cannoli filled with brousse and preserved lemon peel
148 150 152 156 160
Purslane salad with Mediterranean prawns Rack of lamb with aubergine pannequets Roquefort and mascarpone calisson with almonds Crispy chocolate and raspberry millefeuille
214 218 222 226
’ Lesson 13 REINE’S DESSERTS
Lesson 10 Sardines
Warm strawberries with green peppercorns Strawberry trifle Chocolate soufflé tarts Thin apple tarts Figs stuffed with fresh goats’ cheese Sabayon with figs Rosemary sorbet
230 232 234 236 238 242 244
’ 194 198 202 206
’ Portrait of Virginie Gillet
Lesson 8 Courgettes
Courgette tempura Chilled courgette soup with feta Courgette ‘spaghetti’ with Parmesan shavings Stuffed courgette flowers Courgette and dill patties
164
’
’ Portrait of Jean Gabert
Yellow tomato gazpacho Oven-roasted tomatoes Tomato tartare with coriander and salt cod petals Tomato, aubergine and pepper salad Stuffed tomatoes with tomato and pistou risotto Shortbread biscuits with tomato confit and red pepper and raspberry coulis
Lesson 12 Entertaining
211
Food and wine matches Recipe index Ingredients index La Fenière’s favourite suppliers
246 251 252 255
CONTENTS Lesson 1 Asparagus
Green asparagus velouté ‘à la royale’ Broad bean and asparagus ragout with truffle juice Asparagus risotto
Lesson 5 Mediterranean mussels 18 22 28
’
32 34 38 42
’ Lesson 3 Artichokes
Artichoke tempura Carpaccio of artichokes with lemon Asian-style artichokes Pan-fried foie gras on a bed of artichokes Artichokes ‘à la barigoule’
48 52 56 60 64
’ Lesson 4 Provençal fish
Bream ceviche Filo-wrapped red mullet stuffed with garlic cream Roasted sea bass in a transparent parcel Fillet of bream with green risotto Crusted monkfish bouillabaisse
70 72 76 82 86
’ Portrait of José Ortiz
94 98 104 106 110
’
Lesson 2 Octopus and squid
Squid tempura Octopus salad with harissa Cuttlefish-ink risotto with baby squid brochettes Stuffed squid
Moules marinière Spicy mussel escabeche Provençal-style mussels au gratin Mussel risotto with saffron Mussel bouillabaisse
Lesson 9 Tomatoes
91
Lesson 6 Spices
Carrot velouté with cumin Aubergine caviar with cumin Tuna briks with allspice Lamb tagine with apricots and almonds Pears poached in spiced wine with aniseed biscuits
114 116 118 122 126
’ Lesson 7 Potatoes
Pistou soup with tomato and basil sorbet Ratte potatoes stuffed with salt cod brandade Potato and Roquefort pie Crêpes vonnassiennes
130 134 138 142
145
’
165 166 168 172 176
’
Battered sardines stuffed with minted brousse Sardines and oven-roasted tomatoes Sardine escabeche Sardine pasta
180 184 188 190
Lesson 11 Stuff it all!
Stuffed courgettes and onions Stuffed aubergines Brousse-filled ravioli Crispy cannoli filled with brousse and preserved lemon peel
148 150 152 156 160
Purslane salad with Mediterranean prawns Rack of lamb with aubergine pannequets Roquefort and mascarpone calisson with almonds Crispy chocolate and raspberry millefeuille
214 218 222 226
’ Lesson 13 REINE’S DESSERTS
Lesson 10 Sardines
Warm strawberries with green peppercorns Strawberry trifle Chocolate soufflé tarts Thin apple tarts Figs stuffed with fresh goats’ cheese Sabayon with figs Rosemary sorbet
230 232 234 236 238 242 244
’ 194 198 202 206
’ Portrait of Virginie Gillet
Lesson 8 Courgettes
Courgette tempura Chilled courgette soup with feta Courgette ‘spaghetti’ with Parmesan shavings Stuffed courgette flowers Courgette and dill patties
164
’
’ Portrait of Jean Gabert
Yellow tomato gazpacho Oven-roasted tomatoes Tomato tartare with coriander and salt cod petals Tomato, aubergine and pepper salad Stuffed tomatoes with tomato and pistou risotto Shortbread biscuits with tomato confit and red pepper and raspberry coulis
Lesson 12 Entertaining
211
Food and wine matches Recipe index Ingredients index La Fenière’s favourite suppliers
246 251 252 255
Interview with Reine Sammut The story goes that it was Claudette, Guy’s mother, who taught you everything you know: is that true? Yes, that’s true. When I met the tall, handsome young man who became my husband, his parents were quite worried because he was a musician, and that’s not a profession. So when he opened a restaurant in Lourmarin, I rolled up my sleeves. I should have continued with my medical studies (I was going to be a dentist; mind you, I’m still in a job concerned with mouths), but I was becoming less passionate about my studies and we wanted to spend time together. At the time I was waitressing in a café at the La Timone faculty of medicine in Marseilles to pay for my studies but I switched to working at La Fenière. Guy’s mother worked all the time: she was there from six in the morning until 11 at night, and didn’t stop for a second. I used to wonder when she ever got to rest yet now I do the same and I know my own employees go home saying to themselves, ‘I don’t get it; she’s there when I arrive and she’s still there when I leave...’ When I offered to help out, I warned Claudette: ‘I don’t know how to do anything.’ At the restaurant, I started with the desserts, because Claudette used to say that if you followed the recipe to the letter, you couldn’t go wrong. Pears in wine, tarte Tatin, chocolate mousse: classic bistrot desserts. When did you start to really enjoy cooking? Very quickly, in fact, because Guy was extravagant with his praise. He used to say that I was the best cook in the world, even though I didn’t yet know anything, and, of course, that encouraged me. And my mother-in-law was delighted because she sensed my enthusiasm. She said to herself: ‘The girl is smitten, I’m going to be able to leave them to it.’ And that’s what she did; she gradually
faded into the background. Little by little, Claudette introduced me to oriental and Provençal cooking, but everything else I learnt from books. I’m really self-taught. When did you start to feel like a genuine chef? It’s true that as I hadn’t learnt the trade, I didn’t used to feel like a chef. For a long time, I cooked in my everyday clothes, and was forever staining them. I was cooking, but I wasn’t a cook. Then I started wearing my white med-school lab coats. In the 1980s, I decided that I would at least put something on my head, and I found white caps at the market in Aix-en-Provence. I bought the whole lot then made the next ones – I knew how to sew and knit before I knew how to cook! And at the moment, since the birth of my granddaughter, I don’t stop! Would you have made a good dentist? I don’t know. In fact, what interested me most was the length of the course. Medicine was good because it was very long, and then there were subjects that interested me. Although, in fact, it was a toss up between that and advanced maths. For a long time I missed studying. Every year when the autumn term started, I used to re-enroll at university. I even started a business management course, telling myself that it would go well with cooking. When I had my daughter Julia, I got over that: it was her that would go to school. Tell us about your first emotional experience of food? Pretzels with hazelnut chocolate: I love the mix of chocolate and salt! I was eight years old, I was a tomboy and I used to make tree houses: I would take my pretzels and my chocolate there to eat them!
10
Interview with Reine Sammut The story goes that it was Claudette, Guy’s mother, who taught you everything you know: is that true? Yes, that’s true. When I met the tall, handsome young man who became my husband, his parents were quite worried because he was a musician, and that’s not a profession. So when he opened a restaurant in Lourmarin, I rolled up my sleeves. I should have continued with my medical studies (I was going to be a dentist; mind you, I’m still in a job concerned with mouths), but I was becoming less passionate about my studies and we wanted to spend time together. At the time I was waitressing in a café at the La Timone faculty of medicine in Marseilles to pay for my studies but I switched to working at La Fenière. Guy’s mother worked all the time: she was there from six in the morning until 11 at night, and didn’t stop for a second. I used to wonder when she ever got to rest yet now I do the same and I know my own employees go home saying to themselves, ‘I don’t get it; she’s there when I arrive and she’s still there when I leave...’ When I offered to help out, I warned Claudette: ‘I don’t know how to do anything.’ At the restaurant, I started with the desserts, because Claudette used to say that if you followed the recipe to the letter, you couldn’t go wrong. Pears in wine, tarte Tatin, chocolate mousse: classic bistrot desserts. When did you start to really enjoy cooking? Very quickly, in fact, because Guy was extravagant with his praise. He used to say that I was the best cook in the world, even though I didn’t yet know anything, and, of course, that encouraged me. And my mother-in-law was delighted because she sensed my enthusiasm. She said to herself: ‘The girl is smitten, I’m going to be able to leave them to it.’ And that’s what she did; she gradually
faded into the background. Little by little, Claudette introduced me to oriental and Provençal cooking, but everything else I learnt from books. I’m really self-taught. When did you start to feel like a genuine chef? It’s true that as I hadn’t learnt the trade, I didn’t used to feel like a chef. For a long time, I cooked in my everyday clothes, and was forever staining them. I was cooking, but I wasn’t a cook. Then I started wearing my white med-school lab coats. In the 1980s, I decided that I would at least put something on my head, and I found white caps at the market in Aix-en-Provence. I bought the whole lot then made the next ones – I knew how to sew and knit before I knew how to cook! And at the moment, since the birth of my granddaughter, I don’t stop! Would you have made a good dentist? I don’t know. In fact, what interested me most was the length of the course. Medicine was good because it was very long, and then there were subjects that interested me. Although, in fact, it was a toss up between that and advanced maths. For a long time I missed studying. Every year when the autumn term started, I used to re-enroll at university. I even started a business management course, telling myself that it would go well with cooking. When I had my daughter Julia, I got over that: it was her that would go to school. Tell us about your first emotional experience of food? Pretzels with hazelnut chocolate: I love the mix of chocolate and salt! I was eight years old, I was a tomboy and I used to make tree houses: I would take my pretzels and my chocolate there to eat them!
10
‘I had never cooked octopus and yet I love it. It takes rather a long time, but it’s easy and you can prepare it in advance.’ Chantal
‘I had never cooked octopus and yet I love it. It takes rather a long time, but it’s easy and you can prepare it in advance.’ Chantal
106
lesson 5 | mediterranean mussels
Mussel risotto with saffron Serves 6
Prepare the mussels
For the risotto
1 litre (1¾ pints) mussels 2 shallots 4 tablespoons olive oil 150 ml (5 fl oz) white wine For the risotto: 2 shallots 4 tablespoons olive oil 375 g (13 oz) arborio rice (risotto rice) 150 ml (5 fl oz) white wine A few saffron threads 80 g (3 oz) grated Parmesan 50 g (2 oz) butter Salt and black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Tip the mussels into the sink and discard any that are open or broken. Wash them under running water. Scrape the shells with a knife, then wash the mussels thoroughly again and drain (see ‘Mastering the method: Cleaning mussels’, page 94). Remove the ‘beards’ by pulling on them from the pointed end to the rounded end (see ‘Mastering the method: Removing the beards’, page 96). The mussels are ready to be cooked.
Peel and finely chop the shallot and sweat over a low heat, without browning, in the olive oil. Add the rice and sweat for about 3 minutes, over a medium heat, until translucent. Lower the heat so that it does not burn. Add the white wine. When this has been completely absorbed, add a ladleful of the mussel stock, and again, allow the rice to absorb all the liquid. Continue to add the stock, a ladleful at a time, and wait until this has been absorbed before adding more, until the rice is cooked (allow about 20 minutes). It should remain slightly runny and creamy. Meanwhile, soak the saffron in a teaspoon of hot water (see ‘Mastering the method: Using saffron’, page 108). Add the saffron, grated Parmesan and butter to the risotto and stir well. Carefully stir in the mussels to reheat them, then remove the pan from the heat and leave to rest for 1–2 minutes. Taste and add more seasoning if necessary. Divide the risotto between heated serving plates and sprinkle with the chopped parsley.
Cooking
Chop the shallots (see ‘Mastering the method: chopping onions and shallots, page 96). Heat the olive oil in a large pan and sauté the onions until lightly coloured, then add the white wine and mussels. Cover the pan and cook over a high heat, shaking the pan occasionally to ensure an even distribution of heat. The mussels at the top of the pan will fall to the bottom and open. As soon as the mussels have opened (this will take 4–5 minutes), turn off the heat. Remove the mussels using a slotted spoon, then shuck them and set aside. Strain the mussel juice then return to the pan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and add enough water to give you 1 litre (1¾ pints) of stock. Set aside.
‘I now know the secret of mussel risotto: instead of a stock, you use the mussel cooking liquid, which flavours the whole dish!’ Nathalie
106
lesson 5 | mediterranean mussels
Mussel risotto with saffron Serves 6
Prepare the mussels
For the risotto
1 litre (1¾ pints) mussels 2 shallots 4 tablespoons olive oil 150 ml (5 fl oz) white wine For the risotto: 2 shallots 4 tablespoons olive oil 375 g (13 oz) arborio rice (risotto rice) 150 ml (5 fl oz) white wine A few saffron threads 80 g (3 oz) grated Parmesan 50 g (2 oz) butter Salt and black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Tip the mussels into the sink and discard any that are open or broken. Wash them under running water. Scrape the shells with a knife, then wash the mussels thoroughly again and drain (see ‘Mastering the method: Cleaning mussels’, page 94). Remove the ‘beards’ by pulling on them from the pointed end to the rounded end (see ‘Mastering the method: Removing the beards’, page 96). The mussels are ready to be cooked.
Peel and finely chop the shallot and sweat over a low heat, without browning, in the olive oil. Add the rice and sweat for about 3 minutes, over a medium heat, until translucent. Lower the heat so that it does not burn. Add the white wine. When this has been completely absorbed, add a ladleful of the mussel stock, and again, allow the rice to absorb all the liquid. Continue to add the stock, a ladleful at a time, and wait until this has been absorbed before adding more, until the rice is cooked (allow about 20 minutes). It should remain slightly runny and creamy. Meanwhile, soak the saffron in a teaspoon of hot water (see ‘Mastering the method: Using saffron’, page 108). Add the saffron, grated Parmesan and butter to the risotto and stir well. Carefully stir in the mussels to reheat them, then remove the pan from the heat and leave to rest for 1–2 minutes. Taste and add more seasoning if necessary. Divide the risotto between heated serving plates and sprinkle with the chopped parsley.
Cooking
Chop the shallots (see ‘Mastering the method: chopping onions and shallots, page 96). Heat the olive oil in a large pan and sauté the onions until lightly coloured, then add the white wine and mussels. Cover the pan and cook over a high heat, shaking the pan occasionally to ensure an even distribution of heat. The mussels at the top of the pan will fall to the bottom and open. As soon as the mussels have opened (this will take 4–5 minutes), turn off the heat. Remove the mussels using a slotted spoon, then shuck them and set aside. Strain the mussel juice then return to the pan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and add enough water to give you 1 litre (1¾ pints) of stock. Set aside.
‘I now know the secret of mussel risotto: instead of a stock, you use the mussel cooking liquid, which flavours the whole dish!’ Nathalie
‘We have definitely adopted cumin, which gives dishes a rich but subtle spiciness!’ Michèle and Michèle
‘We have definitely adopted cumin, which gives dishes a rich but subtle spiciness!’ Michèle and Michèle
168
lesson 9 | tomatoes
Tomato, aubergine and pepper salad Serves 6
For the aubergines
Tomatoes
3 aubergines 300 ml (½ pint) olive oil 3 green peppers 3 red tomatoes 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Salt and black pepper 100 ml (3½ fl oz) aged wine vinegar 6 basil sprigs
Peel strips from the aubergine, leaving an equal-sized strip of skin between each peeled strip, then cut them crossways into slices ½ cm (¼ in) thick. Heat 4 tablespoons of the olive oil in a frying pan and sauté the aubergine slices until golden, then remove from the pan and set aside on absorbent kitchen paper. Continue until you have fried all the slices.
Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes in half and place them skin-side down in a frying pan. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with garlic slices and season with salt and pepper. Sauté them over a low heat until they are soft, then deglaze the pan with the vinegar. Remove the skins from the tomatoes.
For the peppers
Cook the whole peppers in the oven until their skin has blackened. While they’re still hot, put them in a plastic bag and seal: the condensation will separate the peppers from their skins. When they’re cool enough to handle, peel the peppers, then remove and discard the seeds. Set aside.
To finish
Place a metal ring in the centre of each plate and divide half the aubergine between them. Top this with a layer of half the peppers, then a layer of half the tomatoes. Repeat these layers. Set aside in the fridge: this salad is best eaten chilled. Just before serving, remove the metal rings, stick a basil sprig in the top of each and drizzle with olive oil.
Variation
Aubergine crumble Adopting the same principle, Reine proposes an aubergine crumble, again using the metal rings. Alternate layers of fried aubergine slices and tomato sauce in the rings. Make a crumble mixture with 100 g (3½ oz) flour, 50 g (2 oz) Parmesan and 50 g (2 oz) butter, then top the rings with this mixture and cook in an oven preheated to 180˚C (350˚F/gas mark 4) for 15 minutes. Serve hot or cold.
Tip
Not enough fridge space? If you don’t have the space in your fridge to store all the finished plates, you could serve this salad in straightsided glasses so that the different layers are clearly visible, or simply in a single serving dish, alternating the layers, tian style.
‘We’re from San Francisco. Like lots of Americans, we love Provence and we often spend our vacation in the Luberon.’ Neil
168
lesson 9 | tomatoes
Tomato, aubergine and pepper salad Serves 6
For the aubergines
Tomatoes
3 aubergines 300 ml (½ pint) olive oil 3 green peppers 3 red tomatoes 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Salt and black pepper 100 ml (3½ fl oz) aged wine vinegar 6 basil sprigs
Peel strips from the aubergine, leaving an equal-sized strip of skin between each peeled strip, then cut them crossways into slices ½ cm (¼ in) thick. Heat 4 tablespoons of the olive oil in a frying pan and sauté the aubergine slices until golden, then remove from the pan and set aside on absorbent kitchen paper. Continue until you have fried all the slices.
Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes in half and place them skin-side down in a frying pan. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with garlic slices and season with salt and pepper. Sauté them over a low heat until they are soft, then deglaze the pan with the vinegar. Remove the skins from the tomatoes.
For the peppers
Cook the whole peppers in the oven until their skin has blackened. While they’re still hot, put them in a plastic bag and seal: the condensation will separate the peppers from their skins. When they’re cool enough to handle, peel the peppers, then remove and discard the seeds. Set aside.
To finish
Place a metal ring in the centre of each plate and divide half the aubergine between them. Top this with a layer of half the peppers, then a layer of half the tomatoes. Repeat these layers. Set aside in the fridge: this salad is best eaten chilled. Just before serving, remove the metal rings, stick a basil sprig in the top of each and drizzle with olive oil.
Variation
Aubergine crumble Adopting the same principle, Reine proposes an aubergine crumble, again using the metal rings. Alternate layers of fried aubergine slices and tomato sauce in the rings. Make a crumble mixture with 100 g (3½ oz) flour, 50 g (2 oz) Parmesan and 50 g (2 oz) butter, then top the rings with this mixture and cook in an oven preheated to 180˚C (350˚F/gas mark 4) for 15 minutes. Serve hot or cold.
Tip
Not enough fridge space? If you don’t have the space in your fridge to store all the finished plates, you could serve this salad in straightsided glasses so that the different layers are clearly visible, or simply in a single serving dish, alternating the layers, tian style.
‘We’re from San Francisco. Like lots of Americans, we love Provence and we often spend our vacation in the Luberon.’ Neil
Stuffed aubergines Serves 6
For the aubergines
12 baby aubergines 100 g (3½ oz) grated Emmental cheese 1 tomato, peeled and sliced For the stuffing: 150 ml (5 fl oz) olive oil 1 large onion, finely chopped ½ teaspoon sugar Pinch of ground cumin Pinch of paprika Salt and black pepper 300 g (11 oz) minced lamb 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced 1 thyme sprig For frying: 1 litre (1¾ pints) peanut oil Equipment: Deep-fat fryer
Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer. Peel strips from the mini aubergines, leaving an equal-sized strip of skin between each peeled strip, then wash them and dry on a clean tea towel. Check that the oil is hot enough by frying a small piece of bread – it should brown within 20 seconds. Cut a deep slit along the length of each aubergine then fry them until golden. Remove from the oil using a slotted spoon and drain on absorbent kitchen paper.
sugar, cumin, paprika and a pinch of salt. When the onion has softened, add the minced lamb and garlic. Cook for 5 minutes, then add the diced tomatoes and thyme. Taste and add more seasoning, if necessary. Leave to cook for about 30 minutes. Cooking
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a pan and sauté the onion with the
Preheat the grill. Lay the aubergines in a baking dish. Open up the slits and fill with two tablespoons of the stuffing. Scatter over some of the grated cheese, then lay two slices of tomato on top of each aubergine. Place under the grill for 10 minutes. Serve hot.
Variation
Mastering the method
Big aubergines Here Reine used mini aubergines, but you can make the same recipe with normal-sized ones. If this case, cut very deep slits into the aubergines and cook them longer: leave them a little longer in the deep-fat fryer, and also under the grill.
The all-important slit Making a deep cut will ensure that the inside of the aubergine cooks. In addition, the slit will open up during the frying, making it easy for you to stuff the hollow.
For the stuffing
‘Now, I peel strips from my aubergines: they hold together better when cooking and they look really nice!’ Fabienne
Stuffed aubergines Serves 6
For the aubergines
12 baby aubergines 100 g (3½ oz) grated Emmental cheese 1 tomato, peeled and sliced For the stuffing: 150 ml (5 fl oz) olive oil 1 large onion, finely chopped ½ teaspoon sugar Pinch of ground cumin Pinch of paprika Salt and black pepper 300 g (11 oz) minced lamb 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced 1 thyme sprig For frying: 1 litre (1¾ pints) peanut oil Equipment: Deep-fat fryer
Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer. Peel strips from the mini aubergines, leaving an equal-sized strip of skin between each peeled strip, then wash them and dry on a clean tea towel. Check that the oil is hot enough by frying a small piece of bread – it should brown within 20 seconds. Cut a deep slit along the length of each aubergine then fry them until golden. Remove from the oil using a slotted spoon and drain on absorbent kitchen paper.
sugar, cumin, paprika and a pinch of salt. When the onion has softened, add the minced lamb and garlic. Cook for 5 minutes, then add the diced tomatoes and thyme. Taste and add more seasoning, if necessary. Leave to cook for about 30 minutes. Cooking
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a pan and sauté the onion with the
Preheat the grill. Lay the aubergines in a baking dish. Open up the slits and fill with two tablespoons of the stuffing. Scatter over some of the grated cheese, then lay two slices of tomato on top of each aubergine. Place under the grill for 10 minutes. Serve hot.
Variation
Mastering the method
Big aubergines Here Reine used mini aubergines, but you can make the same recipe with normal-sized ones. If this case, cut very deep slits into the aubergines and cook them longer: leave them a little longer in the deep-fat fryer, and also under the grill.
The all-important slit Making a deep cut will ensure that the inside of the aubergine cooks. In addition, the slit will open up during the frying, making it easy for you to stuff the hollow.
For the stuffing
‘Now, I peel strips from my aubergines: they hold together better when cooking and they look really nice!’ Fabienne
‘I’ve become a real pro at chopping parsley: when I invite friends over, I make a point of including herbs in my recipe so that I can casually show off my talents.’ Sandra
‘I’ve become a real pro at chopping parsley: when I invite friends over, I make a point of including herbs in my recipe so that I can casually show off my talents.’ Sandra
LESSON 12
Entertaining On the menu A menu to show off your talents!
Reine divides her time between the gourmet restaurant, situated in the house, and the bistrot, further down the path. It’s here that the cookery lessons have been taking place, around the big hearth. but having seen the dishes that are served ‘UP top’, we really wanted to try to make some of the same. Reine therefore introduced us to an even more sophisticated cuisine: for starters, a crown of purslane with pearls, then a tender rack of lamb with little aubergine parcels. No cheese board but instead a very original calisson and, as a final flourish, a crispy chocolate and raspberry millefeuille.
212
Purslane salad with Mediterranean prawns ’ Rack of lamb with aubergine pannequets ’ Roquefort and mascarpone calisson with almonds ’ Crispy chocolate and raspberry millefeuille
LESSON 12
Entertaining On the menu A menu to show off your talents!
Reine divides her time between the gourmet restaurant, situated in the house, and the bistrot, further down the path. It’s here that the cookery lessons have been taking place, around the big hearth. but having seen the dishes that are served ‘UP top’, we really wanted to try to make some of the same. Reine therefore introduced us to an even more sophisticated cuisine: for starters, a crown of purslane with pearls, then a tender rack of lamb with little aubergine parcels. No cheese board but instead a very original calisson and, as a final flourish, a crispy chocolate and raspberry millefeuille.
212
Purslane salad with Mediterranean prawns ’ Rack of lamb with aubergine pannequets ’ Roquefort and mascarpone calisson with almonds ’ Crispy chocolate and raspberry millefeuille
234
lesson 13 | Reine’s desserts
Chocolate soufflé tarts Serves 6
For the sweet pastry
For the sweet pastry: 150 g (5 oz) unsalted butter, softened 95 g (3½ oz) icing sugar Pinch of salt 30 g (1 oz) ground almonds 1 egg, beaten 250 g (9 oz) plain flour For the chocolate mousse: 250 g (9 oz) dark chocolate (70 per cent cocoa solids) 60 g (2 oz) unsalted butter 50 ml (2 fl oz) single cream 4 egg yolks 6 egg whites 50 g (2 oz) sugar To serve: 500 ml (1 pint) raspberry coulis Icing sugar
Mix the softened butter with the icing sugar and salt. Stir in the ground almonds then the egg and finally the flour. Form the dough into a ball, then leave to rest in the fridge for 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 160˚C (325˚F/gas mark 3). Roll out the pastry and cut out six circles to fit six individual tart cases. Prick the pastry all over with a fork so that it doesn’t rise up during cooking. Bake in the oven (without filling) for 15–20 minutes, until golden. For the chocolate mousse
Melt the chocolate, butter and cream in a bain-marie. When the mixture is smooth, whisk in the egg yolks. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff then whisk in the sugar to make them thicker and glossier.
Add a third of the beaten egg whites to the chocolate mixture and fold in gently using a rubber spatula. Wait until the mixture is smooth before adding the rest of the beaten egg white. Cooking
Spoon the chocolate mousse into the tart cases. Be generous with it: it’s okay to let the mousse rise above the pastry edges. Bake in the oven (at the same temperature) for about 5–7 minutes. The mousse should barely be cooked: the edges will be firm but the middle will be wobbly and the inside runny. Serve the tarts as soon as you remove them from the oven (See ‘Tip: Warning: fragile!’, see below). Dust with icing sugar and drizzle some raspberry coulis around the plate.
Tips
Preparing ahead It is essential to ‘sear’ the mousse in the oven at the last minute so that it has a light crust and is runny inside. However, you can bake the tart cases the day before and make the chocolate mousse in advance and store it in the fridge. A few minutes before serving, preheat the oven, fill the tart cases with the mousse and bake.
Warning: fragile! You can turn out these tarts as the precooked tart base should hold together well. But be careful when you put them on the plates: the centre of the chocolate mousse is runny and so extremely fragile! If you choose to make one big tart, turning it out will be totally impossible, so make sure you use a pretty tart dish!
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lesson 13 | Reine’s desserts
Chocolate soufflé tarts Serves 6
For the sweet pastry
For the sweet pastry: 150 g (5 oz) unsalted butter, softened 95 g (3½ oz) icing sugar Pinch of salt 30 g (1 oz) ground almonds 1 egg, beaten 250 g (9 oz) plain flour For the chocolate mousse: 250 g (9 oz) dark chocolate (70 per cent cocoa solids) 60 g (2 oz) unsalted butter 50 ml (2 fl oz) single cream 4 egg yolks 6 egg whites 50 g (2 oz) sugar To serve: 500 ml (1 pint) raspberry coulis Icing sugar
Mix the softened butter with the icing sugar and salt. Stir in the ground almonds then the egg and finally the flour. Form the dough into a ball, then leave to rest in the fridge for 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 160˚C (325˚F/gas mark 3). Roll out the pastry and cut out six circles to fit six individual tart cases. Prick the pastry all over with a fork so that it doesn’t rise up during cooking. Bake in the oven (without filling) for 15–20 minutes, until golden. For the chocolate mousse
Melt the chocolate, butter and cream in a bain-marie. When the mixture is smooth, whisk in the egg yolks. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff then whisk in the sugar to make them thicker and glossier.
Add a third of the beaten egg whites to the chocolate mixture and fold in gently using a rubber spatula. Wait until the mixture is smooth before adding the rest of the beaten egg white. Cooking
Spoon the chocolate mousse into the tart cases. Be generous with it: it’s okay to let the mousse rise above the pastry edges. Bake in the oven (at the same temperature) for about 5–7 minutes. The mousse should barely be cooked: the edges will be firm but the middle will be wobbly and the inside runny. Serve the tarts as soon as you remove them from the oven (See ‘Tip: Warning: fragile!’, see below). Dust with icing sugar and drizzle some raspberry coulis around the plate.
Tips
Preparing ahead It is essential to ‘sear’ the mousse in the oven at the last minute so that it has a light crust and is runny inside. However, you can bake the tart cases the day before and make the chocolate mousse in advance and store it in the fridge. A few minutes before serving, preheat the oven, fill the tart cases with the mousse and bake.
Warning: fragile! You can turn out these tarts as the precooked tart base should hold together well. But be careful when you put them on the plates: the centre of the chocolate mousse is runny and so extremely fragile! If you choose to make one big tart, turning it out will be totally impossible, so make sure you use a pretty tart dish!