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Costumes & textiles of Awadh
Clockwise from top: 1. This round velvet cap is gorgeously embroidered in zardozi, with silver tikkis, katoris, badla and precious stones. The tri-folio pattern is decorated in kundan-work. (Facing page, detail). 2. The four-cornered cap, Chaugoshia, looks like an elongated dome on the head. The four long conical sections joined together and crescent-shaped patterns sewn on at the rim was the modification to the cap when it arrived in Awadh from Delhi Court. It is richly embroidered with gold and silver kalabattun giving the effect of Ganga-Jamuni, Ganga stands for gold and Jamuni for silver. It is also described as a combination of sunlight (gold) and moonlight (silver). It was worn by nobles and persons of distinction. 3. This cap is made of silk-brocade, padded with cotton and wool, suitable for winter wear. It was worn by nobles and courtiers at the courts of Delhi, Agra and Lucknow. 4. This elegant Dopalli topi is made of jamdani fabric and is simply cut into two symmetrical pieces, slightly curving towards the crown. A fine zari piping embellishes the curved edges. The kamdani butis in badla across the body and a simple border of couched zari thread deep at the hemline gives it a sophisticated look, making it ideal to be worn with a kurta and angarkha during the summer season. 5. The Nukkadar cap takes its name from the pointed form of the cap at two ends. This richly embroidered cap in pure gold zardozi work was mainly worn by the princes, nobles and wealthy men.
Nawabi Era
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