5280 Magazine October 2024

Page 1


WHY THAT NEW BUILD IN DENVER MAY NOT BE YOUR DREAM HOME BY DALIAH SINGER

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT COLORADO’S FUNERAL INDUSTRY— BEFORE A LOVED ONE DIES BY LINDSEY

CAN ADAM FRISCH WIN THE 3RD DISTRICT WITHOUT LAUREN BOEBERT IN THE RACE? BY JAY BOUCHARD

25 BEST RESTAU R ANTS

LoHi’s Alma Fonda Fina

65 years of Harmony

Mirai sofa designed by Andrea Steidl.

These are the eateries dishing out the tastiest bites—from crave-worthy birria tacos to elevated borscht to Asian dumplings—in Denver and beyond right now.

Death Comes For Us All But It Shouldn’t Come Like This

Over the past six years, Colorado’s funeral industry has made headlines for appalling acts of disrespect to both the dead and the living. Will recently passed legislation stop the atrocities?

Can Adam Frisch Really Turn Colorado’s 3rd Congressional District Blue?

The Aspen Democrat chased Lauren Boebert out of western Colorado with a savvy, practical, centrist message. Now that he’s facing a practical Republican opponent in Jeff Hurd, his ambition to flip the reliably red district has gotten a whole lot harder.

FROM THE EDITOR

12 How the mistreatment of human remains taints the memories of the loved ones they leave behind.

COMPASS

15 ADVENTURE

Coloradans’ latest pedalpropelled obsession? Railbiking.

16 MUSIC

At Itchy-O’s Hallowmass celebrations, Denver’s strangest art collective fuses dance, drums, and rituals.

18 THEATER

A Boulder performing arts institution finds its footing in a new era.

20 SPORTS

Three Pioneers looking to expand the University of Denver’s hockey heritage.

22 INTERSECTIONS

In Wheat Ridge, new and improved spots for fuel and fun heighten the western suburb’s youthful appeal.

42 EAT & DRINK

25 WHAT’S HOT

From prisoner-made art to drinks like the Orange Jumpsuit, Convict Coffee Company focuses on those who’ve experienced the criminal justice system.

26 REVIEW

With Gusto, chef and restaurateur Lon Symensma adds Italian cuisine to his Denver restaurant empire. Plus: a culinary itinerary in and around Sloan’s Lake.

82 DINING GUIDE

COLUMN

30 REAL ESTATE

We were so excited about our new-build home—until we learned that new doesn’t necessarily mean improved.

ACT LIKE A LOCAL

108 THE OVERSIMPLIFIED GUIDE TO: OPENING DAY AT A-BASIN

From sharpening your edges to making sammies for the lifties, five tips for observing the Front Range’s holiest of holidays. ON THE COVER Photograph by Sarah Banks

Photos via University of Denver Athletics; Sarah Banks

EDITOR

Lindsey B. King

ART DIRECTOR

David McKenna

DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Maren Horjus

EDITORIAL

DEPUTY EDITOR

Jessica LaRusso

SENIOR STAFF WRITER

Robert Sanchez

FEATURES EDITOR

Spencer Campbell

SENIOR EDITOR

Michelle Shortall

FOOD EDITOR

Patricia Kaowthumrong

SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Jessica Giles

ASSOCIATE FOOD EDITOR

Ethan Pan

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Barbara O’Neil

COPY EDITOR

Dougald MacDonald

RESEARCHERS

Laurenz Busch, Sophie Hayssen, Amanda Price, Julia Ruble, Taj Smith

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kelly Bastone, Laura Beausire, Jay Bouchard, Christine DeOrio, Courtney Holden, Sarah Kuta, Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan, Jenny McCoy, Allyson Reedy, Meredith Sell, Daliah Singer, Martin J. Smith, Andy Stein

DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY

PHOTO EDITOR

Charli Ornett

DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR

Sean Parsons

DEPUTY PHOTO EDITOR

Sarah Banks

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Daniel J. Brenner, Kyle Ellingson, Beth Johnston, Simone Massoni, Arthur Mount, Chet Strange, James Stukenberg, Armando Veve

5280 PUBLISHING, INC.

CEO & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Daniel Brogan

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Geoff

Dyke

8982 Meadow Hill Circle

Gorgeous ranch style patio home in the exclusive Enclave gated community located in the heart of Lone Tree. This home features an open floorplan with high ceilings and tons of natural light. Meticulously maintained and move-in ready! Must see!

SPACE TO IMAGINE

ADVERTISING & MARKETING

CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER

Camille Hammond

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Ari Ben

MARKETING DIRECTOR Piniel Simegn

SENIOR ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES

Angie Lund, Molly Swanson

ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES

Craig Hitchcock, Kara Noone

ADVERTISING & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Tamara Curry

MARKETING COORDINATOR

Grace Zahn

BRAND SERVICES

CHIEF BRAND OFFICER

Carly Lambert

PRINT OPERATIONS DIRECTOR

Megan Skolak

CREATIVE SERVICES MANAGER

Chelsea Conrad

DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER

Shundra Jackson

SENIOR GRAPHIC & UI DESIGNER

Caitlin Brooks

AUDIENCE GROWTH COORDINATOR Greta Kotova

P RODUCTION COORDINATOR

Alyssa Chutka

NEWS STAND CONSULTANT

Alan Centofante

CIRCULATION CONSULTANTS

Meg Clark, Greg Wolfe

ADMINISTRATION

HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR

Derek Noyes

OFFICE MANAGER

Todd A. Black

BILLING & COLLECTIONS MANAGER

Jessica McHeard

SUBSCRIPTIONS

A one-year subscription to 5280 costs $19.95 for 12 issues. A two-year subscription costs $34.95. Special corporate and group rates are available; call 303-832-5280 for details. To start a new subscription, to renew an existing subscription, or to change your address, visit 5280.com/subscribe; call 1-866-2715280 from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. EST Monday through Friday; or send an email to circulation@5280.com.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR & DINING GUIDE

Letters to the editor must include your name, address, and a daytime phone number (all of which can be withheld from publication upon request). Letters may be submitted via regular mail or email (letters@5280.com). To have a restaurant considered for our Dining Guide, contact us by phone or email (dining@5280.com) to receive a submission form. We also encourage you to contact us if your experience at a restaurant differs significantly from our listing. Information for this section should be submitted at least six weeks before the issue’s cover date.

WRITER’S GUIDELINES

Writer’s guidelines can be found online at 5280.com/writers-guidelines. To suggest a story idea, email us at news@5280.com.

ADVERTISING

5280 offers businesses the most costeffective way to reach Denver’s upscale consumers. Information about advertising is available on the web at 5280.com/ advertising. Call 303-832-5280 to request a printed media kit.

SPONSORSHIPS

5280 actively supports organizations that make our city a better place to live and work. Submit sponsorship proposals to Piniel Simegn, marketing director, at sponsorship@5280.com.

Since 1994, Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar has been the trusted source of fresh, sustainable seafood along the Front Range. Selected as the very first restaurant in Colorado recognized by the Monterey Bay Seafood Watch , Jax has been an industry leader in sourcing clean and sustainable seafood.

Executive Chef Sheila Lucero has been cooking her delicious style of Colorado fish house at Jax for 26 years, and is a member of the Blue Ribbon Task Force, fighting and lobbying for clean waters and sustainable fishing practices in the earth's oceans. Make plans to come join us for dinner or some bar snacks soon and join us in celebrating 30 years of serving Colorado's best and freshest and most trusted seafood.

Belated Eulogy

My grandmother always wore Dune perfume. She was partial to the color lavender, read voraciously, liked the Green Bay Packers for no particular reason, devoured chocolate with glee, and channeled angels when she sang aloud, which she rarely did when anyone was around (except in church on Sundays). Her name was Betty, but I called her Mama—pronounced Mawmaw, which is common in Appalachia—and she called me “honey,” as in “I love you too, honey” whenever we said goodbye over the phone.

Those were, in fact, the last words she said to me before she died last year at the age of 97. I was fortunate to have a living grandparent well into my 40s, and she went peacefully in her sleep on a hot August day. Her death was not tragic or unexpected or anguished, so despite the hurt, I can conjure memories of her—beautiful and sweet until the day she died—that are not tainted by circumstances at the end. That is a gift, one that cannot be overstated and one that far too many Coloradans have not been given in recent years.

I was aware that Colorado was the only state that didn’t license its funeral practitioners and that a lack of regulatory oversight likely had contributed to several recent examples of the mistreatment of human remains. But until the past several months, I hadn’t been able to comprehend the suffering these wrongdoings inflicted upon the living (“Death Comes For Us All—But It Shouldn’t Come Like This,” page 64).

^ Danielle McCarthy’s husband, David, was one of the many people recently victimized by Colorado funeral homes.

It was only when I listened to a bereaved wife, a grieving son, and a heartbroken mother talk about their pain, and then thought about my Mama, that I could begin to understand. Unlike me, they may never be able to think about their loved ones without the mental images of what happened to their bodies. As one man I spoke with said, there’s no penalty stiff enough for stealing the comfort provided by the good memories of a loved one.

I think about my grandmother every day: the way she laughed, her slen-

der hands, how she looked forward to going to the beauty parlor each week. But recent events—and a slew of local industry experts—taught me that I also needed to think about how to both approach death and navigate the funeral industry before someone else I love takes their leave. I hope my story helps you do that as well.

lindsey@5280.com

Freelance writer

Purchasing a home isn’t an easy process for anyone, especially in a competitive market like Denver. But once a buyer has keys in hand, some of the stress usually abates. That hasn’t been the case for writer Daliah Singer and her husband, Zach Wolfel, both former 5280 staffers. In this month’s “Buyer Beware” (page 30), Singer details the litany of issues the couple has experienced since closing on a new-build duplex earlier this year. What the pair thought would be a turnkey property has instead become a lesson in what happens when a population boom means housing is built quickly and existing guardrails are insufficient. There was a leak in a basement window. An air conditioning unit didn’t work. The floorboards separated. As each new problem popped up, Singer wondered how all the experts they had relied upon as buyers had missed the flaws. “If I had to do it again, I’d ask a lot more questions, both during the contract negotiation and the inspection process,” she says. “I’d also have pushed to have a warranty included in our contract.” Singer says writing this piece has helped her understand what to do next time, knowledge she says she “wanted to provide readers so they can be smarter in their future home purchases, too.”

From top: James Stukenberg; Arthur Mount
DALIAH SINGER

LipoAI • Labial Rejuvenation • Tummy Tuck

Breast Augmentation & Lift • Hydrafacial

Liposuction • Facelift • Botox • Fillers

Sculptra • SkinPen® Microneedling

RF Microneedling • Morpheus8 • Laser Resurfacing

0-Shot™ • Forever Young Broadband Light

Halo™ Fractional Laser • DiVa Vaginal Laser™

Sciton® Laser Treatment for Anti-Aging

BOARD CERTIFIED

5280 TOP DOCTOR

MEMBER

A lot has changed over the last forty years, and in Fort Collins, that change has been for the better. In 1984, Visit Fort Collins began telling the story of the city and the people and places that make it unique. Now, you can celebrate its 40th anniversary all week with food, music, and more in their new headquarters from Oct. 13-19.

Riding The Rails

Road cycling, mountain biking, gravel riding: You’d think Coloradans would have enough pedalpropelled pursuits. Two outfitters in the state, however, beg to differ. In 2021, Revolution Rail Co. began offering railbike rides along repurposed tracks near South Fork, and this past summer Colorado Railbike Adventures started plying 150-year-old rails in Erie. With five East Coast locations in addition to its two Rio Grande–adjacent routes, Revolution is a national pioneer of the tourist-friendly activity, which draws inspiration from the handcars used for railway maintenance in train travel’s heyday. Today’s railbikes are built for leisurely cruising with four wheels and pedal-equipped, high-backed seats. “We had over 4,800 riders in our first 12 weeks, ranging from six weeks old to 92 years old,” says Colorado Railbike Adventures owner Jeff Rummer, whose father, Bob, came up with the business idea while teaching Jeff’s first grader about simple machines during the pandemic. Jeff worked with RTD to lease his first track, 4.2 miles of rail that go over a trestle bridge and past the old Boulder Valley Mine, and in September added a nine-mile route through a fall-color-filled historical homestead with views of Longs Peak. Revolution’s season ends this month and picks up again in May 2025. Rummer, however, plans to keep his wheels turning (prices start at $40 per person) through the holidays; look for upcoming theme nights such as Rails and Ales and haunted history tours.

—JESSICA LARUSSO
One of Revolution Rail Co.’s routes along the Rio Grande
PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH JOHNSTON

Mystic Rhythms

At Itchy-O’s Hallowmass celebrations, Denver’s strangest art collective fuses dance, drums, and rituals.

Percussionists in LED-rimmed top hats bang on drums. Inflatable, insectlike creatures gyrate in the crowd. Multicolored lasers pierce a layer of fog. Every performer wears a mask. In short: If Mad Max merged with The Phantom of the Opera, the result would be an Itchy-O concert.

An underground music favorite, Denver’s Itchy-O is well-known for its blatantly bizarre live performances. Other details about the ensemble are difficult to come by, though. Born in 2009, the group has an unidentified founder and sixtysomething anonymous members who play percussion,

guitar, and cymbals—and shroud themselves in elaborate, often creepy costumes. Itchy-O’s founder-whocannot-be-named says the group creates otherworldly environments to get audiences out of their heads. “There’s a paradox where kind of terrifying stuff is happening, but then people are like, ‘Why am I dancing?’ ” he says. “They get caught up in the rhythm and joy of it all.”

But the music and dance collective’s most distinctive feature might be its devotion to immersive art. Well before Meow Wolf popularized the trend in Denver, Itchy-O began exploring how

audience members could add a sense of co-creation and unpredictability to its productions. At one show, for example, Itchy-O transported hundreds of fans who’d bought “mystery tickets” from one venue to another and then put them in costumes before feeding them through a 40-foot tube into a larger, unsuspecting crowd. And while all Itchy-O gigs break down the barrier between spectators and performers, Hallowmass—which celebrates its 10th anniversary this month—is the most interactive of all.

The annual, Halloween-adjacent event traces its origins to a 2014 trip Itchy-O made to Tucson, Arizona, to perform during the All Souls Procession—a Día de los Muertos–inspired parade that honors the dead. “We asked ourselves: What does Denver have that is comparable?” Itchy-O’s founder says. The group came up empty-handed, so in 2015 Itchy-O put on its first Hallowmass, which combined the collective’s penchant for partying with a more solemn ritual: Showgoers were asked to place items that represented people or things they wanted to honor or release from their lives onto an altar. “There were some pretty heavy things, like dog tags, baby shoes, and divorce papers,” the founder says.

Itchy-O members wear ominous costumes to hide their identities— and channel the occult.

Over the past decade, the typically sold-out Hallowmass performances have grown more ostentatious, with an entire folklore spinning up around the event—including an origin story for those insectlike creatures and a dedicated subsect of fans, dubbed the Āoth, who nerd out on the mythology and learn cryptic hand movements that coordinate with Itchy-O songs.

But for anyone getting cult vibes, Itchy-O’s founder maintains that the event is all in absurdist fun. Though newcomers should arrive with an open mind (and possibly something to leave at the altar), they aren’t pressured to interact with performers. “We pride ourselves on meeting people where they’re at,” he says. The enigmatic founder wouldn’t say what new spectacles the band will unveil at this year’s Hallowmass shows (October 31, November 1, and November 2 at Truss House in RiNo; tickets start at $40), but he promised this: Like all Itchy-O performances, “it’ll first and foremost be a big ass-shaking event.” CHRIS WALKER

Seth McConnell/Courtesy of Itchy-O

The Show Goes On

A Boulder theater institution finds its footing in a new era.

The Boulder Ensemble Theatre Company’s (BETC) 2022 staging of The Royale, about a Black boxer during the Jim Crow era, won nine Henry Awards, Colorado’s version of the Tony Awards. Despite the show’s success, BETC’s future was in question the following season, after its founders announced they were leaving the company. Enter: Mark Ragan, who moved to Colorado in 2014 after retiring as the CEO of his Chicago communications company and started dabbling in regional theater. Ragan and Jessica Robblee, an actor and director in Colorado, took over as BETC’s managing director and artistic director, respectively. We spoke with Ragan before his second season in charge to find out how his plans to save the 18-year-old company are playing out. —SPENCER CAMPBELL

5280: What’s your background in theater?

Mark Ragan: I fell into a rough crowd in high school—doing drugs and drinking. A counselor said, “We want you to audition for Oliver.” It saved my life. Until my early 30s, I was never really out of a play. Then, in 1993, my father was diagnosed with Lou Gehrig’s disease, and I had to run the family business.

Why did you decide to take over BETC?

I met Jessica three years ago while acting in the Colorado Shakespeare Festival, and I asked her if she wanted to start a company together. Then we learned that [founders Stephen Weitz and Rebecca Remaly] were leaving BETC. Why start a new company when you could take over one with very loyal patrons?

I was surprised to learn that BETC was on the verge of closing after The Royale’s successful showing. Were you?

A successful production has no impact on your financials. You’re always facing losses unless you can get sponsors and donors to fill in the gaps. I’d say 70 percent of my job is fundraising and community outreach. The pandemic brought about the destruction of a lot of theater companies around the country, and I’m sure it was one of the reasons that Stephen and Rebecca called it quits. My guess is that after 18 years they were exhausted.

How do you appeal to donors?

You have to move them. You have to produce plays that really touch their hearts and brains. If you’re not presenting

quality productions, then you’re not going to have donors either.

How was your first season?

It was fabulous. We sold out almost every show. We raised $165,000 during our Colorado Gives Day campaign. And we killed our budget: We came in tens of thousands below what we thought we were going to spend.

You still own Ragan Communications. How much of its $17 million annual revenue finds its way into BETC’s coffers?

A lot. What we’re trying to do over the next three years is slowly reduce the amount of money I put in, for obvious reasons. If the theater is to survive, it can’t just be dependent on me.

BETC’s 2024-’25 season opened in September with An Enemy of the People (through October 13 at the Savoy Denver; November 8 to 17 at the Dairy Arts Center in Boulder), an 1882 play about how fascist societies are born, while the comedic Ballot of Paola Aguila (October 17 through November 3 at the Dairy Arts Center) skewers an anonymous political party—psst, it’s the Democrats—that can’t figure out why it’s losing Hispanic voters.

Boulder Ensemble Theatre Company’s managing director, Mark Ragan

GOATs On Ice

Three Pioneers looking to expand the University of Denver’s hockey heritage.

The University of Denver men’s hockey team cemented its status as the top program in Division I history with a victory over Boston College in last season’s national championship game. Not only was the title the Pioneers’ second in three years, but it was also the school’s 10th all-time—one more than now second-place Michigan. Ranked first in at least one preseason poll, DU is expected to contend for the national title again and extend its GOAT status during the 2024-’25 campaign, which begins October 5 when the Pios visit the University of Alaska, Anchorage. (The squad’s home opener is on October 18.)

To meet those lofty expectations, sixth-year coach David Carle will have to rely on returning mainstays as well as talented newcomers: The title-winners have suffered nine significant departures, including losing All-American forward Massimo Rizzo to the Philadelphia Flyers. Here, three players who hope to make history this season. —GEOFF VAN DYKE

THE VETERAN

Matt Davis

THE TRANSFER

Samu Salminen

THE ROOKIE Tory Pitner

Goalie Matt Davis shut out Boston College in last season’s NCAA Championship game.

Goaltender Matt Davis’ stats in the Frozen Four tournament this past season speak for themselves: He stopped a whopping 33 shots in DU’s semifinal win over Boston University and had 35 saves and recorded a shutout versus BC in the championship. But if you really want to get a sense of how dominant the Canadian-born athlete was during the team’s title run, Google “Matt Davis save of the tournament” to see a clip of the now senior diving across the goal to make a spectacular save against BC.

Captain of the U18 Finnish team at the International Ice Hockey Federation World Championships in 2021, the star forward spent his first two years of college at the University of Connecticut, notching 17 points for the Huskies last season. But Salminen, whose potential enticed the New Jersey Devils to make him the 68th pick in the 2021 NHL Draft, wanted to play for the Pios, where he’d originally committed as a freshman before running into unspecified admissions issues.

The freshman defenseman comes to the Pios from the San Francisco Bay Area with an already impressive résumé: The Colorado Avalanche selected him 185th overall in this year’s draft. Although he’s a California kid, Pitner graduated from South Kent School, a Connecticut boarding school known for its dominant hockey program. He also played for the junior Youngstown (Ohio) Phantoms in the United States Hockey League, where he tallied 24 points and drew raves from analysts and scouts for his physicality and attention to detail.

Courtesy of NCAA Photos via University of Denver Athletics (game image);
Courtesy of University of Denver Athletics
(Matt Davis, Tory Pitner);
Courtesy of University of Connecticut via University of Denver Athletics
(Samu Salminen)

Ridge On The Rise

An influx of millennial residents in the 2010s caused Wheat Ridge’s median age to drop by 2.5 years. These five new and improved spots for fuel and fun in the western suburb only heighten its youthful appeal.

1 GetRight’s Bakery and Stylus & Crate

6985 W. 38TH AVE.

This duo of neighboring multipurpose businesses was made for leisurely Sunday strolls. Start the day at Stylus & Crate with an oat milk latte and Belgian waffles before perusing its stacks of new and used vinyl records. Then head two doors down to GetRight’s, which peddles French pastries and sandwiches— pick up the jambon beurre (thinly sliced ham and herbed butter on a toasted baguette) for lunch—alongside a selection of easy-growing houseplants.

2 Rich Spirit Bagels

10081 W. 26TH AVE.

When Bakery Four opened on Berkeley’s Tennyson Street in 2022, carb-hungry Denverites lined up for its buttery croissants, caramelized kouign-amanns, rotating cruffin flavors, and crispy-on-the-outside, airy-on-the-inside bagels with housemade schmears. Confident their bagels could stand on their own—they sold out nearly every day—in March, husband-and-wife founders Shawn Bergin and Alex Urdanick moved that arm of their operation five miles southwest to Gold’s Marketplace, a recently renovated shopping center. Rich Spirit is as big a hit as its predecessor, so do as the locals do and skip the queue by preordering online.

3 3rd Shot Pickleball

3545 WADSWORTH BLVD.

Cooler temps don’t have to keep you from practicing your dinks, digs, and drop shots. This indoor pickleball club—which opened in January, just two months after the inaugural Longmont location—keeps the volley going no matter the weather forecast. Players can reserve one of 13 courts (starting at $3 per person for members; $28 per person for nonmembers) or hone their skills via group classes or private lessons with pickler pros. Post-match, cool down with a brew at the on-site bar.

4 Prospect Park

TABOR STREET & WEST 44TH AVENUE

Thanks to a recently completed fouryear, $4 million revitalization project, 39-acre Prospect Park now offers outdoor recreation for all ages and interests: Sweat it out past sundown on six welllit pickleball courts, cast a line at the new fishing pier overlooking Prospect Lake, let your toddlers run wild at the upgraded pavilion and playground areas, or make a picnic pit stop while biking along the adjacent Clear Creek Trail.

5 Yawp Cyclery

7390 W. 38TH AVE.

The mission at 10-year-old Yawp Cyclery is simple: “We want to help people better enjoy their bicycles,” owner Levi Teal says. But staying true to that ethos became increasingly difficult as the bike shop started to outgrow its Edgewater location. So, in 2023, Yawp moved to a 2,500-square-foot building—a church, a bank, and a doctor’s office, in past lives—with plenty of space to display its selection of Surly, Salsa, and Wilde bikes and gear. And if your trusty steed needs a tuneup, the shop also offers repair services ranging from fixing a flat to the Whole Enchilada—a brakes-to-bolts maintenance package that starts at $500.

top: Courtesy of GetRight’s Bakery; Courtesy of Yawp Cyclery
PHOTOGRAPH BY SARAH BANKS

Tour Of Italy

Along the Front Range, there are old-school red sauce joints sporting plaid tablecloths and serving heaping portions. Then there are upscale Italian eateries with petite bowls of lobster-studded handmade pastas and eye-poppingly expensive wine lists. Pizzerias, delis, and homey family-style bistros fill the spaces in between. But where does six-month-old Gusto fit in?

Even after my third visit to the new Sloan’s Lake spot from chef Lon Symensma, whose résumé includes owning Pan-Asian and French eateries

With Gusto, chef and restaurateur Lon Symensma adds Italian cuisine to his Denver restaurant empire.

ChoLon, YumCha, and now-closed Bistro LeRoux in downtown Denver, I still couldn’t decide. Then I realized that what the establishment does best is what makes it so difficult to define: Here, you don’t have to pick one Italian archetype over another, because Gusto, tucked inside the Lakehouse Residences building facing Sloan’s Lake Park, straddles them all. While this sort of indecisiveness could result in an uneven menu elsewhere, it works at Gusto. I like that you can get both basic and fussier takes on starters, pastas, and pies.

For instance, my favorite starter, the fritto misto—a staple at swankier Italian restaurants—sits alongside an omnipresent dish of meatballs on the appetizer menu. The golden pile of calamari rings, squid tentacles, shrimp, and lemon slices is barely covered in a light, crispy batter. Dip them into the sharp piccata aïoli and they get even better. The plate of four golf-ball-size wagyu beef rounds served with garlic toast is a reliable appetite suppressor, but nothing about the meatballs stands out from others I’ve eaten.

When I visited in early June, the entrée side of the rotating menu featured a wild boar pappardelle— not a dish you see at your everyday

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH BANKS
^ From left: Lon Symensma; the Amalfi pizza
—ALLYSON REEDY

Denver’s

With more than 30 crave-worthy toppings to mix and match, we've loved helping you make burger magic since 1945. NO MATTER HOW YOU STACK IT

Cricket Burger topped with a toasty crostini, swiss cheese, caramelized onions, house-made cheese frico, onion strings, and french onion schmear on a rosemary potato bun.

trattoria. Sadly, the gamey cubes of boar overpowered the otherwise delicious Tuscan ragu of red wine, tomato paste, garlic, and sofrito (onion, carrot, and celery). Without the protein, I would’ve delighted in the way the sauce clung to the toothsome house-made ribbons of pasta, how the briny Manzanilla olives cut the plate’s richness, and how a gremolata of breadcrumbs, parsley, and lemon zest added crunch.

Spaghetti all’assassina is a hot pasta of 2024, and seemingly every TikTok chef worth their likes has a variation of this recipe right now. For Gusto’s rendition, the spaghetti cooks dry in the pan like risotto, rather than being boiled in a pot of water. The noodles become slightly charred and absorb the sauce, which is slowly added as the starchy strands cook. The result is a punchy marinara that permeates the charred, crunchy noodles. Symensma adds puréed Tuscan artichokes to his version for creaminess, making for a delicious, hearty dish of deeply concentrated flavors.

The same could be said for the pizzas, which Symensma fires in an Italian-sourced gas oven that reaches 800 degrees. All six of Gusto’s variations nail that bubbly, crackly, chewy halo of crust that encircles toppings such as house-made sausage, mushrooms, and fresh basil. In this way, Gusto feels like the pizzeria you’ve always wanted in your neighborhood. The most interesting pie is the Amalfi, crowned with spicy Calabrian chiles, pecorino, piped-on dollops of whipped ricotta, and razor-thin slices of simplesyrup-poached lemon. I liked the combo, but my friend was turned off by the unexpected flavors—the citrus rind’s bitterness combined with the savory creaminess of the ricotta is unusual—so if you’re unsure, I’d order the more traditional margherita or meaty Calabrian instead.

Gusto may be a lot of things, but it isn’t a destination for sweet tooths, as desserts lean more savory than saccharine. The chocolate-pistachiodipped cannoli needed sugar, and servers finish the tiramisù tableside with grated espresso cheese—yes, cheese—yielding an overly savory

end to the meal. The limoncello olive oil cake is the best of the bunch, but on a menu that’s heavy with lemon, it is, ironically, not so lemony. The generous slab of cake is, however, moist and well-balanced with candied olives and a swoosh of chantilly cream.

To drink, order the perfect Negroni on tap, a smooth sipper with balanced bitter and sweet notes, or the spicy, smoky Calabriation with Calabrianchile-infused tequila and mezcal. The citrus in some of the other house cocktails can be overpowering, especially considering how much citrus Symensma deploys in his dishes. Despite some of its missteps, Gusto more than adequately fills a void for both low- and high-brow Italian food in the Sloan’s Lake food scene. Do I think the eatery serves the best version of either in Denver? No. I’d rather go to more niche spots, like Restaurant Olivia if I’m feeling fancy or to Marco’s Coal-Fired for pizza or up to Boulder’s Il Pastaio for my favorite pastas. But there’s something to be said for Symensma’s broad, dependable menu. No restaurant can be all the Italian things to all the people, but Gusto comes close enough.

LAKE LIFE

Over the past few years, the neighborhoods around Sloan’s Lake have blossomed into coveted places to live. That’s thanks in part to all of the bars and restaurants that have opened in the area. If you want to spend the day eating and drinking in and around the district, this itinerary takes you from breakfast to dinner. —AR

9 a.m. Be inside Edgewater Public Market when 18-month-old Black Box Bakery opens to grab a latte or Americano and one of its viral croissant cubes.

10 a.m. If you need a midmorning mimosa, decade-old Rupert’s at the Edge does bottles for $18.50.

12 p.m. Grab some pad krapow gai (spicy chicken with basil) and drunken noodles to go from two-year-old La Mai Thai Kitchen, located on the west side of the lake. Devour your lunch at one of the park’s picnic tables, where the people-watching is as captivating as the skyline views.

4 p.m. Toast the day with a bubbly Sunset Spritz at the four-year-old Patio at Sloan’s or a refreshing Black Razz Blonde at 10-year-old Joyride Brewing Company (pictured).

GUSTO

1671 N. Raleigh St., cholonconcepts.com

The Draw: A well-crafted lineup of Italian favorites such as antipasti, pizzas, and pastas

The Drawback: Some flavor combinations can be off-putting; desserts lack enough sweetness

Noise Level: Low

Don’t Miss: Fritto misto, housemade pastas, pizzas, Negroni on tap

6:30 p.m. Head to six-month-old ChoLon Sloan’s Lake, situated in the same building as Gusto, for French onion soup dumplings. Or mosey over to Side Pony, which opened in 2023, for a snack-centric dinner of jalapeño cheddar queso, charcuterie, and pickled curry cauliflower.

^ Gusto’s limoncello olive oil cake
Courtesy of Joyride Brewing Company (beer)

Buyer Beware

The problems started four days before we moved in, when one of the window washers we’d hired to clean our new Sloan’s Lake duplex walked upstairs from the basement and said, “Ma’am, you’ve got a leak.”

When we’d toured the house during the inspection roughly a month earlier, in February, snow was still melting outside, yet there was no evidence of the leak that was now dripping from the ceiling into the recess of one of the window wells. No one would welcome this news, of course, but we’d already strained our budget to buy the place. Although mortgage interest rates were high, my husband and I had recently learned we were expecting our first child, and we needed more space. Plus, the two-year-old, never-been-lived-in duplex was on the market for around $100 per square foot less than others we’d toured, largely because the

We were so excited about our new-build home— until we learned that new doesn’t necessarily mean improved.

original builder had been foreclosed on. We thought we were getting a great deal. So did our real estate agent.

Much of the next month was spent scheduling a certified plumber, a structural engineer, a siding expert, and a mold inspector to help determine the cause and scope of the drip. We even had to cut a hole in the drywall to assess whether the leak was contained or if it had infiltrated the foundation. Ultimately, we determined that the source of the problem was outside of the house. The flashing—a thin metal strip attached to the bottom of the siding—which was supposed to direct water away from the structure had instead been installed with an eightdegree tilt toward the house. The cost to fix it: $1,800.

That outlay was just the first in an ongoing string of expenditures to fix significant problems in what we’d assumed would be a relatively turnkey property. There was the $3,700 to add necessary landscaping along the front and back of the house and detached garage to protect the foundation from water and ensure proper drainage. Then almost $500 to correct the electrical wiring to two air conditioner units, which had been installed with the wrong wattage. In late April, we learned it would cost $2,300 to repair a leak in one of those air conditioners.

Hot—literally and figuratively—I started to wonder who was at fault for all these mistakes. We had put a lot of trust in and paid a lot of money to other people when

buying our home. We had expected that the builder had constructed it properly and with attention to detail. We had taken for granted that the various inspectors whose jobs were to ensure safety, identify potential red flags, and inform us of existing issues would actually do those things. And we had hired a real estate agent to serve as an adviser who would know the right questions to ask. Why had none of them caught or advised us on the defects in our house before we closed?

Maybe we’d put too much faith in the socalled experts and not enough responsibility on ourselves. Maybe we didn’t dig deep enough on questions we had about the foreclosure, and perhaps neither we nor our agent pushed hard enough to secure a warranty from the seller, which would’ve covered many of the costs. We’d owned homes before, one old and one new, but the cliché still rang true: We didn’t know what we didn’t know.

It turns out that we aren’t alone in our tribulations. The Mile High City is experiencing an unfortunate convergence of factors that’s leading to some people—like us—unknowingly moving into shoddily constructed homes and then experiencing The Money Pit in real life. High home prices, a housing shortage, supply chain issues, a deficit of construction workers, and an overworked city inspection team are all parts of the problem. On top of that, the most recently proposed amendments to the state’s construction defect laws—including extending how long homeowners have to file claims and expanding the potential monetary damages that could be awarded to them—died in the Legislature this past spring.

“A housing shortage means builders can get away with cutting corners,” says David Pardo, technical lead at Nookhaus, a Colorado firm that builds accessory dwelling units in Denver, and a property manager for condos and townhomes. “It’s that they can get away with it, in some cases. In other cases, there’s just not the money in the budget, [because maybe] lumber suddenly spiked in price, and they have to skimp somewhere to make the money work so the project can be completed [and they] don’t go bankrupt.”

The reality, he says, is that because of the shortage of homes, “builders know that every home they build will sell”—even if it’s a house of cards.

WALK DOWN NEARLY any tree-shaded sidewalk in the Highland neighborhood and you’ll encounter a similar scene: a stately Victorian standing next to a small Craftsman bungalow, with its telltale gabled roof and covered front porch, both looking uncomfortable

sitting next to a boxy, new-build duplex with massive windows.

Over the past decade, Denver has ranked among the top 10 cities in the country for residential development. “There is absolutely a correlation between the quality of construction and the speed of construction,” says Reid Jennings, a partner at Littleton’s Parrish & Jennings who began his career as an architectural engineer before moving over to construction litigation. Interest rates on construction loans

are high enough, Jennings says, that the economics of those projects “facilitate or encourage build-as-fast-as-you-can, turn-it-over-as-fastas-you-can.”

That reality is putting an undue burden on the city’s permitting and inspection offices—tasks that can involve up to 30 Denver agencies. Denver’s Community Planning and Development (CPD) department has 65 building inspectors to cover the city. They handle mechanical, electrical, and building approvals.

PUMPKIN FESTIVAL

OCTOBER 11-13

FRIDAY – SUNDAY, 9 A.M. – 4 P.M.

Celebrate fall with live music, food trucks, local artisans, beer and hard cider. Then purchase the perfect pumpkin from our 10-acre patch. Wagon rides, photo booths, carnival games, face painting and more included with admission.

Must purchase tickets in advance.

These inspectors are different from the private ones buyers hire when they’re considering purchasing a home. City inspectors are licensed and trained in specific trades and are focused on structural integrity, safety, and minimum code requirements. They don’t, for example, make sure that the floorboards are properly aligned or that the oven turns on. “They’re not responsible for checking for compliance with the [builder’s] plans and specifications. They’re not responsible for checking the manufacturer’s installation instructions and whether or not there’s been full compliance,” says Max Gad, a partner at Lasater & Martin who focuses on construction defect litigation.

The CPD team handles approximately 20,000 inspections per month, 60 percent of which are residential. That’s more than 300 inspections per inspector per month, a number that has been fairly consistent over the past decade. That’s a much heavier lift than city inspectors have in, say, Seattle—where 100 professionals handle around 166 inspections per person per month—but on par with Fort Worth, Texas, where 24 city inspectors handled more than 330 primarily commercial inspections per month in 2023.

Denver is currently short three building inspectors, while the broader inspection team (including zoning) has an additional seven vacant positions. “We are not fully staffed. Occasionally we cancel inspections because of it—less than one percent, but more than we were canceling six months ago,” says Dennis Shults, CPD’s deputy building official. “If I could get those [three positions] back, that’d be great. It allows us to do other things than just focus on quick inspections, getting in and out.”

Being overworked could conceivably lead to fewer issues being discovered during inspections. In Denver, about 75 percent of daily inspections pass, Shults says. In Seattle, only about half do. Less harried inspectors still might not have caught our basement leak, though. Before the certificate of occupancy was issued for our duplex, for example, the siding would have been checked—but only to confirm the flashing was present, not that it was correctly installed. “We would have inspected that, but it’s possible with a siding permit that we don’t see the actual flashing detail that gets under the siding or around the windows. We just see the final product, so we wouldn’t be able to see if there’s water intrusion behind it,” Shults says.

The private inspection company we hired to examine our home before the closing said something similar: The flashing should have been evaluated, but the inspection does not serve as a guarantee. “Sometimes we get tunnel vision when we see a defect, and we look

OCTOBER 13, 2024–FEBRUARY 17, 2025

Wild Things: The Art of Maurice Sendak has been co-organized by the Denver Art Museum and the Columbus Museum of Art in partnership with The Maurice Sendak Foundation. It is curated by Jonathan Weinberg, PhD, Curator and Director of Research at The Maurice Sendak Foundation and Christoph Heinrich, Frederick and Jan Mayer Director of the Denver Art Museum. This exhibition is presented by the Clarence V. Laguardia Foundation with additional support provided by the Tom Taplin Jr. and Ted Taplin Endowment, Bank of America, Kathie and Keith Finger, Lisë Gander and Andy Main, the Kristin and Charles Lohmiller Exhibitions Fund, Sally Cooper Murray, Kent Thiry & Denise O’Leary, an anonymous donor, the donors to the Annual Fund Leadership Campaign, and the residents who support the Scientific and Cultural Facilities District (SCFD). Promotional support is provided by 5280 Magazine and CBS Colorado. Maurice Sendak, Where the Wild Things Are (detail), 1963, watercolor and ink on paper, 9 3/4 x 22 in. ©The Maurice Sendak Foundation

right past another defect,” the operations manager told me.

“The [private] home inspection is only as good as the home inspector,” attorney Jennings says, adding that “the dirty little secret is that most city inspections…are primarily spot checks.” Despite their limitations, he still advises paying for your own private home inspection. Even oversights could be helpful for homeowners if they decide to pursue legal or other action: If a professional inspector is unable to perceive a problem, Jennings explains, how can an ordinary homeowner, who is not an expert on construction, reasonably be expected to identify a builder’s blunder?

NO ONE LIVED in our house before us. The four-bedroom, five-bathroom property had been empty since construction was completed in 2022. Despite the fact that the home was new, other issues started to present themselves as the weeks went by. Spaces developed between some floorboards, and others began to bubble due to flawed installation, according to the general contractor we hired to repair them. One morning, a piece of wood that hadn’t been glued properly tumbled onto my foot from the kitchen island. We were surprised to find no

cable jack or Ethernet port had been installed, meaning we couldn’t access TV or internet until Xfinity was able to run a line into our house, which took a month. A whistling sound flowed through our primary bathroom vent whenever the AC attempted to kick on—even though it never actually blew cold air when it did, forcing us to relocate to the basement for a week during a summer heat wave.

In a Hail Mary to solve our ongoing lack of air conditioning, we had our ducts cleaned in the hope that it would improve airflow, if not fully cool the moving air. After pulling out two beer cans, a wad of tape, and seemingly all of the drywall debris from the home’s construction, which the builders had swept into the ducts instead of a dumpster, one of the technicians looked befuddled. “I was just at a house where the people have lived for 40 years and never had their ducts cleaned,” he said. “Yours were dirtier.”

But it wasn’t until another evening, shortly thereafter, that I began to consider consulting a lawyer. Halfway through roasting vegetables for dinner, the oven started beeping and wouldn’t stop until I reset the breaker. My husband walked in the door to find me crying on the floor.

Still, I waited to pick up the phone—until my husband and I were jolted awake at 4:30 a.m. by a banging noise coming from inside the walls. Our house and all of our toilets were shaking, plus the control panel on our washing machine was blinking. It was as if a ghost had gone into full haunting mode. In reality, it was likely due to a sprinkler system malfunction.

As I told bits of our story to Jennings, the attorney, he nodded knowingly. He’d heard similar stories—often worse—from many clients. The kinds of problems we were experiencing were “not isolated,” he told me. “[They] occur on projects from commercial properties to multimillion-dollar custom-built homes to spec-build townhomes.”

The question was what to do about it. At their most basic, Lasater & Martin’s Gad explained, construction defects are “a failure to build correctly.” These can range from major botches related to, for instance, how the foundation was dug, to moderately concerning issues, like our siding. There doesn’t even have to be physical damage to meet the criteria; rather, the potential for harm can serve as legal proof.

But it typically takes at least a year for these types of lawsuits to work their ways through the courts, and attorneys’ fees start

Take our immersive experience and add a splash of enchantment to the cauldron. Enjoy events, workshops, and other special surprises in the spirit of October’s spooky season.

Prime Steaks Fresh Seafood Fine Wine

Indulge in USDA Prime Beef, A5 Wagyu and seasonal cocktails at Timberline Grill. Timberline Grill has once again been honored for its outstanding wine program in Wine Spectator’s 2024 Restaurant Awards, which celebrate the world’s best restaurants for wine.

around $10,000. Plus, if the builder doesn’t have adequate insurance, there might not be “money or a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow there to help get you fairly compensated for your damages,” Gad says. In other words, even a judgment in a homeowner’s favor likely won’t net much.

Beyond lawsuits, homeowners and renters don’t have much recourse. “Without having specialized experts that are going to do more intrusive inspections, observations, really digging into a discrete issue, it’s really difficult to identify or to protect yourself as a homeowner on the front end,” Jennings says. “Particularly with new-build homes, issues develop.”

Since 2003, the state’s Construction Defect Action Reform Act has included a notice of claim process whereby an injured party must provide written notice detailing all of the defects in their home to the contractor before filing a lawsuit. This allows the construction professional to inspect the alleged defects and potentially address them, with the goal being to avoid going to court. Jennings has seen approximately three cases over his 12-year career settle at this stage. We didn’t know about the notice of claim process but inadvertently went through an informal version of it by calling and emailing the seller— a private capital lender that had taken over the foreclosure—about our issues in order to get both our flashing repair and the initial AC leak fixes reimbursed.

As of late summer, we had already shelled out more than $9,000 and anticipate spending another $10,000 on longer-term fixes. So far, we have recouped around $5,000 from the seller. Hiring a lawyer for a minimum of $10,000 to potentially win back $14,000 would be absurd. But it’s not only about the money. At a time when we should have been excited about starting our next chapter—decorating a new house, preparing for our baby’s arrival—we instead devoted hours and loads of mental and emotional energy to finding experts, setting up appointments, and stressing over whether our house was actually safe. Instead of being thrilled with this next step, we found ourselves overwhelmed, frustrated, and sad. Five months after moving in, with several of the most critical issues having been sorted out, we’re finally getting the chance to feel some of that joy.

And, if we’re looking for bright sides, we certainly have a lot more knowledge for our next home purchase. As one loan officer who’s worked in northwest Denver for decades put it: “A lot of it comes back to caveat emptor.” That’s Latin for “let the buyer beware.” m

Daliah Singer is a Denver-based freelance journalist and a contributing writer at 5280

Because even selfcheckouts ask

REALTOR PROFILES

ANNE DRESSER KOCUR

LIV SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

YOUR REPRESENTATION MATTERS—ANNE DRESSER KOCUR IS THE RIGHT CHOICE.

Regarding the process of buying or selling a home, Anne Dresser Kocur offers an elevated concierge strategy and goes to great lengths to guarantee a favorable outcome for her clients. She recognizes the importance of personalized care, innovative and advanced marketing techniques, skills, determination, ingenuity, and exceptional qualities to assist you in achieving your ideal home. Concrete evidence of her achievements and established history can be seen in the continued loyalty of previous clients and the referrals they provide.

• #1 Individual Broker in the Denver Metro Area

• #1 Individual Broker at LIV Sotheby’s International Realty

• #1 Individual Producer for Denver Metro Association of Realtors

• Over 95% Client Repeat/Referral Rate

• 5280 Excellence Award Winner

• Years of Corporate Relocation Experience

• Red Carpet Service in Every Price Range

• Extraordinary Negotiation Skills

The Denver real estate market continues to change, but Anne remains the same—dedicated and determined to go above and beyond to meet all your real estate needs.

WENDY GLAZER

KENTWOOD REAL ESTATE

Wendy’s CUSTOMER-FIRST philosophy is one reason she is highly successful. There are many qualities and skills that go into being an excellent real estate professional: integrity, in-depth community and market knowledge, marketing savvy, effective negotiation skills, and a high-quality professional network. All of these are hallmarks of Wendy’s expertise. Wendy’s success is also due to being accessible, paying attention to details, being a good listener, a good communicator, and responding quickly to clients’ needs in order to have smooth and seamless transactions.

As a third generation Denver native, Wendy knows the city and neighborhoods. This, along with her extensive knowledge, experience, passion, and high values blend together so that clients trust her to help them navigate the bumpy waters of today’s real estate world. Turning dreams into reality!

• Top 5% of Realtors in Sales Production in the Nation

• Yearly recipient of the Denver Metro Association of Realtors Excellence Award

• Yearly recipient of the Five Star Award

• Yearly recipient of the Denver Board of Realtors Million Dollar Round Table Award

• 5280 Magazine’s Top Real Estate Producer - Double Black Diamond Award

4949 S. Niagara Street, Suite 400, Denver, CO 80327 | 303-906-9000 WENDYGLAZER.COM | BDGLAZ@AOL.COM

ASHLEIGH FREDRICKSON

As a top-tier broker, Ashleigh Fredrickson’s mission is to deliver personalized service to her discerning clientele while guiding them smoothly through their real estate journey. At the heart of her success is her dedication to each client’s unique needs by providing strategic direction and a proven process in an ever-evolving real estate landscape. Recognized among her clients and fellow agents for her integrity, strong work ethic, and uncompromising advocacy, Ashleigh loves creating meaningful relationships and has built her business through repeat clients and referrals.

Ashleigh’s personal passion for real estate investment, home design, and architecture connects her with like-minded clients who value her expertise and judgment when it comes to their real estate portfolios. She enjoys sharing her personal experiences, connections, and resources as a real estate advisor.

As a proud broker with The Agency, which was recently awarded the top Luxury Brokerage, she thrives in a culture that is committed to redefining the industry and the client experience.

Client Testimonial

“I would like to thank Ashleigh Fredrickson for the fantastic job she did as our seller’s agent on a house we recently sold. I have been a real estate investor of residential properties for years and before that was involved in commercial property acquisitions for over 20 years. Due to this, I have worked with many real estate agents for both purchasing and selling properties, and Ashleigh is at the top of my list. Her knowledge of the market and buyers’ preferences was extremely helpful. Ashleigh was spot on determining the market value, and her marketing skills were instrumental in our achieving top dollar. Her commendable negotiation skills and perseverance delivered the results we were aiming for.” - D. Nowak

AFFILIATIONS + AWARDS

• 5280 Magazine Top Producer

• DMAR Excellence Award Winner

• Recognized for being in the top 1.5% of America’s Best Real Estate Professionals in the Country by Real Trends + Tom Ferry

• Member of Denver Metro Association of Realtors

• Member of National Association of Realtors

MARY JONES, CRS

KENTWOOD REAL ESTATE

With more than 20 years of experience in Denver’s real estate market, Mary isn’t just another agent; she’s a reliable ally and advocate for her clients. Her profound knowledge of the Denver market guarantees that whether buying or selling a home, is not just successful but also enjoyable and stress-free.

As a distinguished Top Producer at Kentwood Real Estate, Mary’s track record speaks volumes, with over 98% of her clientele coming from repeat clients and referrals from her friends and clients. Her authentic dedication to assisting others radiates in every deal, making the process exciting, enjoyable, and a win-win for her clients. Mary is committed to delivering exceptional service to all, irrespective of budget. Although proficient in all realms of real estate, her forte lies in the luxury home sector. With an understanding of its distinct challenges, Mary tackles each transaction with ingenuity and finesse, ensuring her clients obtain exceptional outcomes.

AFFILIATIONS + AWARDS Who’s Who in Luxury Real Estate, Yearly Recipient of Denver Metro Association of Realtors Excellence Award, Denver Board of Realtors Million Dollar Round Table Award, Five Star Award, 5280 Magazine’s Top Real Estate Producer Black Diamond Award and Double Black Diamond Award, Certified Residential Specialist (only 4% in the nation), Over 98% of Clients are Repeat Clients and Referral from Clients

4949 S. Niagara Street, Suite 400, Denver, CO 80237 | 303-886-2323

MARYJONESDENVER.COM

LIZ RICHARDS

JANET KRITZER

One of Denver’s Top 10 Brokers for the past eight years by the Denver Board of Realtors. As one of the leading real estate brokers in Denver, Janet Kritzer is dedicated to meeting your needs with the utmost level of sophistication and professionalism. She specializes in the luxury home market within all the neighborhoods of Cherry Hills Village. With skillful negotiation, refined sales strategies, and expansive knowledge of the area, it’s clear to see why Janet consistently ranks in the top individual sales for LIV Sotheby’s.

Call Janet to discuss how her experience will work for you and your real estate needs.

TOP 10 BROKER SINCE 2007 – DENVER METRO ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS

WALL STREET JOURNAL TOP 500 AGENTS NATIONALLY AWARDED FIVE-STAR PROFESSIONAL SEVEN YEARS RUNNING

LUXURY HOME PROFFESIONAL WITH GLOBAL CAPABILITIES

Renowned for her tireless work ethic and undaunted tenacity, Liz Richards has been a top-producing Global Real Estate Advisor and Broker Associate since 2004. 95% of Liz’s business comes by way of referrals and repeat clients; she is proud to serve her clients in both the Denver Metro and Summit County markets. As a founding partner of The Elevated Living Group, Liz has been recognized by the Denver Metro Association of Realtors for her significant contribution to sales in the Denver Metro market. In 2023, the partnership ranked #1 by Total Transactions and #3 by Total Sales Volume. With a habit of setting records, Liz is uncompromisingly redefining the practice of luxury in her business. Her passion for the importance of homeownership and building wealth via real estate investing is the source of her drive and incredible energy to be the best of the best. Forever with her finger on the pulse of the market, Liz’s extensive knowledge and over 20 years of experience speaks for itself, constantly reaffirming her status as a “go-to” agent for buyers and sellers seeking an incomparable experience. Liz’s passion for art, culture, and food is nourished by the city life of Denver, while her favorite activities of skiing, hiking, paddle boarding, and cycling are fulfilled with her treasured “mountain time” in Summit County.

PHONE:

EMAIL: Janet@JanetKritzer.com

WEB: www.JanetKritzer.com

ADDRESS: 8000 E. Belleview Ave., Suite 200 Greenwood Village, CO 80111

100 Saint Paul Street, Suite 200, Denver | 303-956-2962 LIZRICHARDSREALESTATE.COM | LIZ@LIZRICHARDSREALESTATE.COM

LIV SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

ANN KERR

KENTWOOD REAL ESTATE

In a market replete with realtors, Ann Kerr stands out from the pack. With over $500 million in sales, she is proof of the power of relationships. Ann’s 25-year tenure in the industry reflects the type of staying power that can only be achieved through honesty, integrity, and unrelenting authenticity. She answers phone calls and emails directly. It’s extremely important to her that she takes responsibility for every detail of every transaction. Ann specializes in helping buyers and sellers with all types of residential properties—from acreage estates in the Villages, bungalows in Washington Park to high-rise condos downtown and townhouses in Cherry Creek. Ann’s goal is to give each buyer or seller a sense of complete satisfaction with their dealings and to enjoy the ride along the way.

SPECIALIZATIONS Resident in Cherry Hills Village for 30 years. Expert in Observatory Park, Cherry Creek, Washington Park, Cherry Hills Village, Greenwood Village, and more. Luxury, Downsizing, Investment Properties, Relocation, First-Time Home Buyers.

AFFILIATIONS +AWARDS Denver Metro Association of Realtors Professional Standards Committee Member, Who’s Who in Luxury Real Estate, Cherry Hills Village Planning & Zoning Commission, Swim Across America, University of Oklahoma Alumni Association, The John Lynch Foundation, PIVOT, University of Denver Lacrosse

ann k er r

4949 South Niagara St., Ste. 400, Denver, CO 80237 |

303.818.8668

303-818-8668

ann ke rr .com

ANNKERR.COM | AKERR@KENTWOOD.COM

JACCI GEIGER & SANA WOOD

KENTWOOD REAL ESTATE

Jacci Geiger and Sana Wood, Kentwood Real Estate, the #1 Duo of 2023 at Kentwood Cherry Creek and Top Real Estate Producers. With a philosophy that “Experience is Everything,” they bring a unique blend of real estate expertise and a background in building and interior design. They pride themselves on the 3 C’s: Connection, Communication, and Collaboration. Going beyond traditional services, they offer a full-service experience, handling everything from deep cleaning and staging to complete remodels, making the moving process stress-free for their clients. For their personalized and professional expertise, connect with them through Kentwood Real Estate.

• Double Black Diamond 5280 Top Real Estate Producers

• 5 Star Professional Awards for over 10 years

• #1 Duo in Transactions at Kentwood Real Estate

• Rank in the Top 1% of Denver Realtors

JACCI: 303-840-7777 | jacci@kentwood.com

SANA: 303-881-3514 | sana@sanawood.com

JACCIANDSANA.COM

KIM KOUBA: New Perspective Team Lead

COMPASS REAL ESTATE

Always coming from the perspective of lifelong real estate advisor, Kim and her team are here to guide you in this changing market regardless of your short- or long-term path. They’re a team of agents committed to caring for clients with solid analysis, gracious yet persistent negotiating, and innovative and common-sense problem solving. They are empowered by the financial and tech tools of Compass, but it’s the decades of deep relationships with clients and their community that helped them produce almost $100M in sales in 2021 and earn the Denver Metro Association of Realtors’ Diamond Level honor as one of the top producing teams in the metro area.

New Perspective Team

COMPASS REAL ESTATE

JODY DONLEY, KIM KOUBA, MELINDA HOWLETT, ASHLEY HOWLETT, TIFFANY BURKE, MEGAN DAVIS, LAURA HUDGINS, MARCY EASTMAN, DANELLE MORGAN, AND DIANNA MAY

KIM KOUBA (TEAM LEAD), JODY DONLEY (FOUNDER), LAURA HUDGINS, AMANDA MURPHY, CONSUELO SIDAS, JORDYNE BAILEY, AND TRACIE POLOSKY (TEAM OPS DIRECTOR)

KIM KOUBA 303-204-8215 | KIMKOUBA@NPRECO.COM JODY DONLEY 720-290-8917 | JODY@NPRECO.COM

KIM KOUBA: 303-204-8215 KIM.KOUBA@COMPASS.COM

WENDY LEE

KENTWOOD REAL ESTATE

Wendy specializes in Buying and Selling Real Estate in Denver and the surrounding areas. From small cottages to grand estates, a true partner with her clients to achieve the absolute best results on any transaction, big or small. An exceptional level of market knowledge, expertise, service, and integrity. A 35-year resident of Cherry Hills Village and Denver. An amazing source for school, community, neighborhood, country club, and recreational information.

A Denver Metro Realtor Platinum winner for 2023 and a top producer at Kentwood Real Estate.

SPECIALIZATIONS Luxury Real Estate, First-Time Buyers, Relocation, New Development, Downsizing, Right-sizing, and Investment Properties. Experienced in Cherry Hills Village, Castle Pines Village, Greenwood Village, Centennial, Denver, Washington Park, Observatory Park, Cherry Creek, DCC, Hill Top, and Beyond.

EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE IS A PRIVILEGE YOU DESERVE.

303-525-9711 | WENDYLEE@KENTWOOD.COM WENDYLEEHOMES.COM

LYNDSEY STEVENS & MARC HARRISON

VAIL PROPERTY EXPERTS COMPASS

Discover your dream mountain home in Eagle County with the Vail Property Experts! Our dedicated team combines local expertise with a passion for finding your perfect property. Whether you’re seeking a serene mountain retreat, a luxurious residence, or a smart investment opportunity, we offer personalized service and unparalleled market knowledge. From the initial search to closing, we guide you every step of the way, ensuring a seamless experience. The Vail Property Experts provide access to exclusive listings and valuable insights, helping you make informed decisions. Marc and Lyndsey will guide you to your ideal property with their local knowledge, experience, and network. With over 50 years of combined local living experience, their understanding and expertise help you navigate the competitive mountain market. Turn your real estate dreams into reality with the guidance of the Vail Property Experts. Contact us today, and let’s find the perfect property for you!

LYNDSEY: 970-745-4880

lyndsey.stevens@compass.com

MARC: 970-331-4061

marc.harrison@compass.com

VAILPROPERTYEXPERTS.COM

JULIE WINGER

In her 23rd successful year in real estate Sales and Consulting, Julie is a third-generation Colorado native with deep roots first planted in the state by her great-grandfather, Winter Fyfe, who came over from Scotland and ran the general store at the Tomboy Mine in Telluride. Julie’s grandfather was in the early mortgage business in Denver, and her mom was one of Denver’s first iconic female Realtors. So a deep love and knowledge of Denver real estate is in Julie’s blood. She is passionate about sharing her broad knowledge of Denver’s neighborhoods, history, and dynamic real estate market with her clients, buyers, and sellers, first time and experienced.

Julie is known for her unrivaled negotiating skills, experienced competence in managing transactions, honesty, and work ethic. She prides herself on her personal hands-on approach and strict attention to detail. “My goal is to exceed expectations while providing an extremely high level of customer service, as together we achieve my valued client’s real estate goals and objectives.”

SPECIALIZATIONS

Sellers and Buyers. All Denver Neighborhoods, Suburbs, and Front Range Communities. Historic Home Specialist, Luxury Home Specialist, Single-Family Homes, Condos, Land.

303-946-2784 | juliewinger@kentwood.com JULIEWINGER.COM

KENTWOOD REAL ESTATE AT CHERRY CREEK

AMANDA FEIN

COMPASS

REAL ESTATE

Amanda skillfully integrates her tenacious energy, integrity, and analytical dexterity into every real estate transaction. She loves inspiring possibilities and enthusiastically exceeding her clients’ real estate needs and desires. Her professional expertise lies in adeptly navigating the experience for all buyers and sellers across the Front Range. While a top producer and always working, Amanda does enjoy a mountain getaway, is an avid hockey fan (Go Avs!), loves big dogs, and she has been a serial volunteer in Denver for nearly 25 years. Most importantly, she eagerly anticipates the opportunity to earn your trust and tirelessly fulfill your real estate desires.

• 5280 Double Diamond Top Producer 2022

• 2023 Five Star Professional

• 2018 Denver Business Journal Forty Under Forty

• Certified Negotiation Expert & More!

Let’s connect!

720-935-5759

DESIREDENVER.COM | AMANDA.FEIN@COMPASS.COM

MARK BAKER

EQUITY COLORADO REAL ESTATE

Mark is a top-performing real estate expert with over 20 years of experience, encompassing rental property ownership, flipping homes, and constructing houses and multimillion-dollar projects. His deep understanding of the building industry, combined with advanced training in negotiation, legal and regulatory matters, technology, professional standards, marketing, and the sales process, provides his clients with an unparalleled advantage.

Mark emphasizes the importance of having a meticulous and systematic approach to every transaction, whether it’s driven by the need for more space, downsizing, marriage, divorce, retirement, or investing in properties. His proven process, coupled with his genuine dedication to his clients’ success, extensive network, market expertise, and exceptional negotiation skills, consistently leads to winning outcomes for those he represents.

“My goal is to ensure that my clients enjoy a smooth and stress-free experience, make well-informed decisions, maximize their profits, and build lasting equity and wealth for their future.”

• 100% Client Satisfaction

• Ranked Top 1% of CO Realtors

• Yearly Recipient of the Five Star Award

• 5280 magazine Top Real Estate Producer

7887 E. Belleview Ave., Suite 175, Denver, CO 80111 720-257-1541 | 5280CORE.COM | MARK@5280CORE.COM

JONATHAN & ROY LOPEZ

GLERY ROSS GROUP

Jonathan and Roy Lopez form the Glery Ross Group at Kentwood Real Estate; a family team bringing over 55 years of combined experience to the table.

With a client-first approach driving their business philosophy, Roy & Jonathan prioritize your needs every step of the way. They understand the personal significance of buying and selling a home, ensuring you

JANET KRITZER

ELAINE STUCY

One of Denver’s Top 10 Brokers for the past eight years by the Denver Board of Realtors. As one of the leading real estate brokers in Denver, Janet Kritzer is dedicated to meeting your needs with the utmost level of sophistication and professionalism. She specializes in the luxury home market within all the neighborhoods of Cherry Hills Village. With skillful negotiation, refined sales strategies, and expansive knowledge of the area, it’s clear to see why Janet consistently ranks in the top individual sales for LIV Sotheby’s.

We live in an area that inspires dreams in both minds and hearts. Presenting and marketing masterpiece properties that fulfill those dreams is our passion. Whether it’s a luxury home or an acreage property, it is a sincere privilege to represent our clients with enthusiasm, creativity, and discretion.

SPECIALIZATIONS

receive knowledgeable guidance tailored to your unique situation. Driven by their mission, “Real Estate with a Purpose,” the Glery Ross Group is committed to making a positive impact in both the lives of their clients and their community.

JONATHAN: 303-550-0802

jonathan@kentwood.com

ROY: 303-888-7800 roy@kentwood.com

GLERYROSSGROUP.COM

JANET KRITZER

LIV SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

One of Denver’s Top 10 Brokers for the past eight years by the Denver Board of Realtors. As one of the leading real estate brokers in Denver, Janet Kritzer is dedicated to meeting your needs with the utmost level of sophistication and professionalism. She specializes in the luxury home market within all the neighborhoods of Cherry Hills Village. With skillful negotiation, refined sales strategies, and expansive knowledge of the area, it’s clear to see why Janet consistently ranks in the top individual sales for LIV Sotheby’s.

Call Janet to discuss how her experience will work for you and your real estate needs.

Call Janet to discuss how her experience will work for you and your real estate needs.

Luxury homes and acreage properties in Douglas County

TOP 10 BROKER SINCE 2007 – DENVER METRO ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS

WALL STREET JOURNAL TOP 500 AGENTS NATIONALLY

PHONE:

PHONE:

JOY CASTILLO & SYMANTHA RODRIGUEZ

TOP 10 BROKER SINCE 2007 – DENVER METRO ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS

WALL STREET JOURNAL TOP 500 AGENTS NATIONALLY AWARDED FIVE-STAR PROFESSIONAL SEVEN YEARS RUNNING LUXURY HOME PROFFESIONAL WITH GLOBAL CAPABILITIES

EMAIL: Janet@JanetKritzer.com

WEB: www.JanetKritzer.com

ADDRESS: 8000 E. Belleview Ave., Suite 200 Greenwood Village, CO 80111

• DMAR Excellence Award AFFILIATIONS + AWARDS

AWARDED FIVE-STAR PROFESSIONAL SEVEN YEARS RUNNING

EMAIL: Janet@JanetKritzer.com

WEB: www.JanetKritzer.com

With nearly 50 years of combined experience representing buyers and sellers in the greater Denver Metro real estate market, Symantha and Joy have provided exceptional service and using their incomparable market knowledge and negotiation skills to create clients for life. Their shared core values and passion for service allow them to give clients consistent service 365 days a year. As top producers and collaborative agents, they enjoy excellent reputations in the real estate community.

By merging their enthusiasm and local expertise with the reach and resources of the Sotheby’s brand, Joy and Symantha raise the bar in service, knowledge, and results.

• Real Trends Top 1.5% of agents

JOY: 720-291-5816

SYMANTHA: 720-217-4788

ADDRESS: 8000 E. Belleview Ave., Suite 200 Greenwood Village, CO 80111

• Certified Residential Specialist

LUXURY HOME PROFFESIONAL WITH GLOBAL CAPABILITIES

LIV SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY STUCYGROUP.COM

• Certified Home Luxury Marketing Specialist Master Certified Negotiation Expert AFFILIATIONS + AWARDS

413 Wilcox Street, Suite 100, Castle Rock, CO 80104 720-881-5718

PAM BENT

RE/MAX PROFESSIONALS

Changing Lives. One Home at a Time. Pam has over 20 years of experience as a successful Realtor® serving both buyers and sellers and is a Certified Residential Specialist. With an outstanding track record, she will leave no stone unturned when it comes to helping you achieve your real estate goals. You can trust her to handle all your real estate needs with the highest level of professionalism and will always provide sound advice, great service, and the right answers to any questions you may have. Her past clients will tell you: she knows what it takes to get offers accepted and contracts signed. Call Pam today!

AFFILIATIONS + AWARDS

Top Producer, Certified Residential Specialist, Certified Negotiation Expert, Certified Luxury Home Specialist, Five Star professional, 3-Carat winner South Metro Denver Realtor Association, 20+ years of experience

303-981-8811

pam@pambent.com

PAMBENT.COM

ANNA CENTRON

LIV SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

Anna Centron, a Denver native and trusted real estate advisor with LIV Sotheby’s Realty, is here to guide you through the intricate world of the Denver real estate market. With her client-centric approach and unwavering commitment to excellence, Anna ensures that your home buying or selling experience is seamless and stress-free. Leveraging her extensive network and unwavering commitment to customer satisfaction, Anna has established herself as a renowned high-producing agent, consistently exceeding the expectations of her discerning clients. Embrace the expertise and dedication of Anna Centron for all your real estate ventures!

• Top 1.5% of America’s Best Agents of 2022/2023 by RealTrends + Tom Ferry

• Real Producers Top 5%

• America’s Best and HomeLight top 1% National Real Estate Professional

100 Saint Paul St., Ste. 200, Denver, CO 80206 | 303-906-5793

THECENTRONGROUP.COM | ACENTRON@LIVSOTHEBYSREALTY.COM

JANET

CARLA BARTELL

PERRY & CO.

Carla will give your real estate transaction the attention it deserves. Experience • Excellence

• Named in the Top 0.15% of Real Estate Professionals in the U.S., 2024 RealTrends

One of Denver’s Top 10 Brokers for the past eight years by the Denver Board of Realtors. As one of the leading real estate brokers in Denver, Janet Kritzer is dedicated to meeting your needs with the utmost level of sophistication and professionalism. She specializes in the luxury home market within all the neighborhoods of Cherry Hills Village. With skillful negotiation, refined sales strategies, and expansive knowledge of the area, it’s clear to see why Janet consistently ranks in the top individual sales for LIV Sotheby’s.

303-884-4550 | carla@corcoranperry.com PERR.CO/CARLA

Call Janet to discuss how her experience will work for you and your real estate needs.

TOP 10 BROKER SINCE 2007 – DENVER METRO ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS

OLIVIA CASA MONDAY

WALL STREET JOURNAL TOP 500 AGENTS NATIONALLY AWARDED FIVE-STAR PROFESSIONAL SEVEN YEARS RUNNING LUXURY HOME PROFFESIONAL WITH GLOBAL CAPABILITIES

PHONE: EMAIL: Janet@JanetKritzer.com

WEB: www.JanetKritzer.com

ADDRESS: 8000 E. Belleview Ave., Suite 200 Greenwood Village, CO 80111

LIV SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

Olivia has built her business on her full concierge services approach to client care and deep values that establish trust. As the only Italian-speaking Realtor in Denver, everyone she represents appreciates her above-and-beyond service, attentive listening, and knowledge of the greater Denver area.

720-308-6669 | omonday@livsothebysrealty.com OLIVIAMONDAY.SOTHEBYSREALTY.COM

Best

From left: Carne’s martini cart; a dessert featuring local peaches at the Wolf’s Tailor; chef Theo Adley of Marigold

25 RESTAURANTS

These are the eateries dishing out the tastiest bites—from crave-worthy birria tacos to elevated borscht to delectable dumplings— in Denver and beyond right now.

& ETHAN PAN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH BANKS

KIKÉ’S RED TACOS

In a city where you can’t toss a tortilla without hitting a taco place, Kiké’s stands apart. At the nearly 18-month-old fast-casual joint on Denver’s Northside, the Silva Gonzalez family seasons goat or beef with roughly a dozen spices before simmering the protein for eight hours. The resulting melt-in-your-mouth birria is available several ways, including tucked into tacos, piled on top of ramen, and sandwiched in a torta. The can’t-miss option, though, is the queso taco: a red corn tortilla layered with birria, cheese, onion, and cilantro and

griddled until impeccably melty and crunchy. Dunked in meaty consomé, the finger-licking specialty has been a locals’ favorite since Kiké’s—pronounced “keekays,” a nickname for Enrique, a popular middle name in the family—debuted as a food truck in 2020. The brick-and-mortar restaurant has more offerings than the taquería-on-wheels, including adult beverages and a wellstocked salsa bar. In the unlikely event you have room for dessert, order the churro bites with Nutella and milk anglaise dipping sauces. $, 1200 W. 38th Ave.

MARIGOLD

LYONS

Since opening Marigold in Lyons in 2022, chef Theo Adley has made an outsize impact on the small town. He earned a James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Mountain in January, putting the Front Range enclave on the culinary map for his fine yet humble dinner fare, which draws widely from European gastronomy. Adley’s unorthodox flavor combinations (think: sea urchin, polenta, corn, black sesame, and Basque peppers) are likely what’s earning him such national recognition, but customers can take comfort in more approachable plates. Dishes such as half chicken under a brick and ragu-coated rigatoni cement Marigold as a neighborhood bistro worthy of regular visits. But Adley never fails to add a special touch: The chicken is paired with spigarello, an heirloom Italian green; the ragu has a hint of mint. That’s what elevates the restaurant to a higher culinary plane—and what makes the trip up U.S. 36 truly worth it. $$$, 405 Main St., Lyons

NOISETTE

LOHI

Many of us long for a romantic getaway to the City of Love, particularly after watching the recent Summer Olympics. But before you pull the trigger on that nine-hour flight, pencil in a date night at Noisette. The two-year-old Parisian retreat’s location sets the mood: Tucked away along the eastern edge of LoHi, the restaurant from hospitality veterans Tim and Lillian Lu is located just far away enough from the neighborhood’s bustling center to feel intimate. The dining room’s ambience is dreamy, too, with chic velvet seating,

SAP SUA

dainty floral arrangements, and a pleasing palette of pastel greens, blues, and pinks. Research Tim’s menu of delicate French plates beforehand, then woo your partner with your proper pronunciation of foie gras with brioche and vol-auvents (filled puff pastry). And don’t miss Lillian’s house-made baguette. Bakeries outside of France rarely produce the ideal chewy-pillowy-crispy specimen, so nailing that textural combination in a high-elevation environment like Denver is nothing short of a gold-medal-worthy feat. $$$$, 3254 Navajo St.

CONGRESS PARK

One-year-old Sắ p Sử a, located on East Colfax Avenue, is churning out gussiedup Vietnamese cuisine and contributing to a more equitable and nurturing hospitality industry. To facilitate an all-hands-in work environment, chef-owners Ni and Anna Nguyen encourage bar and kitchen employees to develop new dishes and drinks, and they credit every member of the staff on the menu. Inspiration for this rare camaraderie can actually be found in the restaurant’s name, which translates to “about to be” or “almost” in Vietnamese and symbolizes the Nguyens’ mission to inspire themselves and their team members to continuously evolve. The philosophy has resulted in an ever-growing inventory of creative recipes such as bánh mì cà chua—sourdough toast soaked in a tomato vinaigrette and topped with confit tomatoes, fried shallots and garlic, and herbs—and bún cha, which are lemongrass pork meatballs with Colorado peaches and pickled jalapeño. They’re mouthwatering creations that are paving the way for a more collaborative restaurant world. $$$, 2550 E. Colfax Ave.

LA FORÊT

SPEER

Fans of the aspen-tree-bedecked dining room at now-closed Beatrice & Woodsley will love the amped-up version of that forest-themed setting at La Forêt, which took over the South Broadway location this past March. When they moved in, La Forêt owners Mike Huggins and Lenka Juchelkova added more flora, but the restaurant’s menu of upscale French classics and a beverage program directed by Williams & Graham alum Jason Patz have become the real draws. We suggest ordering a melon- and vodka-forward Summer in Provence cocktail and indulging in buttery, charred-lemon-drizzled artichokes and sliced stag au poivre served in a pool of peppercorn and cognac sauce. Prolong your stay in the leather booths amidst the gnarled branches and patches of moss by ordering the berry-capped crème brûlée and boozy café brûlot, a cognac- and orange-peel-spiked coffee that’s lit on fire tableside. The dazzling send-off will prepare you for the return to the concrete jungle outside. $$$, 38 S. Broadway

MAKFAM

BAKER

At MAKfam, Kenneth Wan and Doris Yuen’s nearly one-year-old fast-casual restaurant, the married duo presents dishes and drinks influenced by their Chinese American heritage. Table markers sport photos of celebrities such as Jackie Chan and Michelle Yeoh, and colorful images saluting American Chinatowns and monosodium glutamate (MSG) grace the walls.

These playful elements complement the eatery’s nontraditional drinks and dishes. While you wait for your food, knock back a refreshing Hong Kong Iced Tea—lemon tea with cognac, yuzu curaçao, and honey presented in a repurposed carton of Vita tea (a popular Chinese refreshment)—or quaff an ultrasavory MSG-infused gin martini. Then dig into dessert-worthy sugar-dusted crab and cheese wontons and flavor-packed salt and pepper fried chicken and rice with sweet soy and ginger-scallion oil. Or pop in during Sunday brunch for decadent, salted-egg-yolkstuffed Hong Kong French toast and delectable steak and eggs over garlic-scented rice. All are inventive nods to Wan and Yuen’s multicultural East Coast upbringing as the children of Chinese immigrants. $$, 39 W. First Ave.

ODIE B’S

SUNNYSIDE

Formerly known as Bodega, Odie B’s made a rowdy entrance into Denver’s brunch scene in summer 2022, making a name for itself with its smart twists on classic sandwiches. The commotion it caused reached all the way to Kansas City, where a similarly named restaurant had trademarked the “Bodega” title 26 years earlier. A cease-and-desist letter and $10,000 in rebranding costs later, Odie B’s emerged in July. While the business has a fresh moniker, the fast-casual eatery’s cult favorite offerings remain the same. We love the Deviled Chicken—a fried chicken thigh, deviled egg spread, bread-and-butter pickles, arugula, and pickled red onion between Texas toast—but the burger and the breakfast sandwich (there are vegan versions of all three) also satisfy our need for handheld sustenance. Pair your pick with the mixed bag of fries, whose four spud varieties are seasoned with a nutritional-yeast-boosted dust, and be thankful that Odie B’s is just as boisterous as Bodega ever was. $, 2651 W. 38th Ave.

MAJOR TOM

RINO

Major Tom hasn’t stirred up Michelin-starred acclaim like adjacent concept Beckon. But the glam bar and restaurant offers a similar brand of epicurean magic in a more casual setting and at a lower price. That’s because the team running the neighboring venue—including chef Duncan Holmes and director of experience Allison Anderson—prepares ingredients with the same scrupulous attention to detail at both. At the intimate eatery, whose theme is a nod to the David Bowie song, patrons can choose their own culinary journeys with small plates, cocktails,

and an expansive selection of wines, including more than 40 Champagnes. Since Major Tom’s 30 seats fill up quickly, you’ll want to reserve a table to indulge in a couple of glasses of bubbly with red-misokissed charred cabbage, buttery Alamosa bass on a bed of chanterelle mushrooms and pole beans, and the best riff on McDonald’s french fries on the Front Range. And unlike the eight-course tasting menu at nearby Beckon, a dinner here doesn’t make you feel like you need a special occasion (and a big raise) to indulge your palate. $$$$, 2845 Larimer St.

DOUGH COUNTER

UNIVERSITY HILLS

Whichever pizza style makes your stomach growl, the Dym family has likely mastered it. In 2008, Mark and Kristy Dym founded the Ballpark neighborhood’s Marco’s Coal-Fired, the first Colorado restaurant to be certified by Italy’s Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, which recognizes makers of authentic Neapolitan pizza. The restaurant sparked many Denverites’ obsessions with the blistered pies of Naples, and in September 2023, the Dyms delivered more carbloaded goodness. Fast-casual Dough Counter serves Sicilian and New York–style pizzas

alongside a lineup of starters, chicken strips, and big ole slices of cake. Start with crispy, handbreaded tenders with house-made ranch, then move on to the main event. The New York–style pies are perfection, with foldable slices, but don’t miss the Sicilian. These ultra-thick masterpieces have crusts loaded with cheese that stretches all the way to the sides of the pan to yield a caramelized edge. The Hot Honey Pepperoni is a stunner, as is the Big Mac, which has—as you might imagine—a Thousand Island–like sauce. $, University Hills Plaza, 2466 S. Colorado Blvd.

POINT EASY

WHITTIER

In a city where farm-to-table cuisine reigns, it can be difficult to separate the, ahem, wheat from the chaff. In the Whittier neighborhood, though, two-year-old Point Easy makes a bold claim as an exemplar of the genre. Case in point: On the eclectic yet somehow still cohesive menu, even the house salad is audacious. The dish, whose greens are sourced from Boulder’s Cure Organic Farm, is decorated with a subtly Middle Eastern combination of pistachios, dates, red chiles, ricotta salata, and a vinaigrette seasoned with ras el hanout, a Moroccan spice blend. The brick chicken—executed with Latin American flavors such as salsa macha, herbed yogurt, plantains, and jicama—and the Three Sisters chitarra pasta, made with nutty Turkey Red heirloom wheat and loaded with local beans, corn, and squash, make similarly confident statements. The kitchen’s steady hand with seasoning and its respect for star ingredients make Point Easy the easy pick as a place that has pulled away from the pack. $$$, 2000 E. 28th Ave.

BAEKGA

After 20 years of cooking French and Japanese cuisine for restaurants such as Vail’s Matsuhisa, chef Sean Baek turned to the fare he knows best. This past May, the chef opened Baekga, where he and his wife, Mina Kim, serve the cuisine of their native Korea. Inside the no-frills restaurant dressed in dark woods, gray, and black, tables are loaded with galbi (short ribs) served on sizzling skillets, silky japchae (sweet potato starch noodles) studded with sliced veggies, and parades of rotating

LOWRY FIELD
Joni Schrantz/Courtesy of Dough Counter (Dough Counter)

banchan, aka side dishes such as kimchi. While you can get these specialties at many other Korean restaurants, the renditions at Baekga are presented (often by Baek himself) with warm hospitality and elevated touches you won’t find anywhere else. For example, the perfectly charred galbi wears a sauce sweetened with grated pear, while the tightly wrapped, fried-shrimp-stuffed kimbap (rice roll) exhibits the technique of a skilled sushi chef. To taste Baek’s fine-dining prowess, order the beignets dusted with roasted beet powder and powdered sugar for dessert. $$, Lowry Town Center, 200 Quebec St.

MOLOTOV KITSCHEN & COCKTAILS

CITY PARK

While today’s headlines about Ukraine are often focused on its devastating war with Russia, one Denver chef is illuminating the country’s multifaceted culture and cuisine. Bo Porytko, whose grandparents moved to the United States from Ukraine, honors his heritage at nearly two-year-old Molotov through a rotating list of Eastern European specialties. However, those familiar with Porytko’s imaginative cooking style, which gained a following at the temporarily closed Misfit Snackbar (don’t fret, it’s looking for new digs), know not to expect average preparations of, well, anything. For instance, he bolsters borscht with seasonal produce (one recent edition had potatoes, crispy leeks, and egg yolk jam), fills dumplings with chive sour cream to serve in snap pea foam, and fries kielbasa-stuffed quail in a buttermilk batter. From his cooking to a wall installation representing a traditional headdress to the many cocktails starring horilka (a vodkalike spirit), Porytko and his eatery urge visitors to look beyond their newsfeeds to learn more about the people and culture of Ukraine. $$$$, 3333 E. Colfax Ave.

LUCINA EATERY & BAR

SOUTH PARK HILL

There’s no bad time to visit Lucina, a two-and-a-half-year-old eatery that specializes in the flavors of Latin America, coastal Spain, and the Caribbean. Drop in during happy hour (Tuesday through Friday, 3 to 5 p.m.) for discounts on tapas, pintxos, and cocktails. That includes $9 papas con todo (fries blanketed with chorizo, jalapeño, melty queso de oro, and spicy ají verde crema) and $8 albondigas (wagyu beef meatballs in a tomato and roasted pepper sauce). Both play well with a smooth, rosemary-garnished cosmopolitan shaken with precision by beverage director Henry Ottrix. Or come on Friday or Saturday night, when chef-owners Erasmo Casiano and Diego Coconati cook paella, whose fruits of the sea sit on a bed of saffron-scented rice. Bring your friends—one order sates up to three people—so you’re not too full for dessert. Creations by Hannah Lavoy such as éclairs with espresso cream satisfy every time. $$$, 2245 Kearney St.

RESTAURANT OLIVIA

WASHINGTON PARK

Ever since Restaurant Olivia opened in January 2020, making exceptional pasta has been its watchword. Its program of extruded, twisted, and hand-folded noodles is superlative within Denver’s Italian restaurant scene, which was loaded with first-rate

options even before Olivia’s opening. This past May, the Washington Park hot spot unveiled a 1,200-square-foot expansion that, among several other structural changes, moved its entrance, doubled its seating capacity, and, most important, introduced an open-concept station where dedicated pasta chef Emily Boyd rolls out around 100 pounds of pasta each week. Her noodles are transformed into seasonal hits such as zingy, mussel-studded spaghetti al limone and a rich gemelli dish with lamb meatballs, pecorino cream, prosciutto, and Palisade cherries. If you’re looking to level up your pasta game at home, sign up for head chef and co-owner Ty Leon’s classes, where you can learn the art form using the eatery’s time-tested recipes. $$$$, 290 S. Downing St.

SPUNTINO

HIGHLAND

Like any well-matched couple, Spuntino’s Cindhura Reddy and Elliot Strathmann complement each other, both in personalities and, crucial to Denver diners, skill sets. Reddy’s Indian-influenced Italian cuisine has always wowed at the Highland dinner spot—never pass up the capellini aglio e olio with spice-preserved garlic or the malai kofta gnocchi with curry-scented tomato sauce—but Strathmann’s thirstquenching contributions are just as critical to the dining experience. Try a cocktail mixed with houseinfused liqueurs, like the House of Tom Bombadil, an earthy tonic of Family Jones gin, Spuntino’s saffron liqueur, citrus, soda, and a bespoke amaro steeped with Turkey rhubarb root, bitter orange, and wild Colorado yarrow and artemisia. Or consider the rare, unconventional bottles on the wine menu’s Off List, which is largely sourced from niche makers in Italy. If Strathmann is at the restaurant, ask him for recommendations so you can indulge in a beverage that fits both Reddy’s flavor profiles and your preferences. $$$, 2639 W. 32nd Ave.

ALMA FONDA FINA

LOHI

Basking in the warm glow of 10-month-old Alma Fonda Fina’s dining room, it’s hard to believe that the interior came together in just six weeks. After chef Johnny Curiel and his wife, Kasie, hunted for a venue for their modern Mexican concept for more than a year, they fell in love with the intimate LoHi space that had housed the Truffle Table for more than a decade. With the help of Agatha Jane Interior Design, the Curiels transformed the rustic wine bar into an inviting hideaway furnished with reclaimed wood, succulents, terra cotta, and textiles from Mexico. The backdrop, illuminated by

fixtures sourced from artisans around the world, pairs harmoniously with what comes out of Johnny’s open kitchen, including elegant variations of familiar favorites, such as tacos and crudos, as well as rarer-in-Denver eats. We highly recommend building a feast with a combination of both; don’t miss the camote asada (roasted sweet potato) and lubina rayada (Colorado striped bass with habanero chile atole and chimichurri tomatoes). Then, raise an avocado margarita to the Curiels’ quick and deft handiwork—and to the restaurant’s recently earned Michelin star. $$$, 2556 15th St.

TRAVELING MERCIES

AURORA

Chef Caroline Glover and her husband, Nelson Harvey, debuted Traveling Mercies inside Aurora’s Stanley Marketplace in late 2023—just 18 months after their seven-year-old Annette earned Glover a James Beard Foundation Award. Although we love the reliable wood-fired eats and come-one, come-all vibe at the latter, the former’s concise roster of wine, cocktails, and seafood-centric bites confirms Glover’s culinary range, and the breezy, light-wood-accented space whisks diners to a place where the air is salty and feet are

always sandy. That transportive environment comes courtesy of Denver’s FAM Design, which outfitted the tiny room with deep blue and terra cotta hues and painted the curvy, slatted ceiling a shade of warm ochre. Plan your next vacation over a meal of oysters, shrimp cocktail with mustard-powder-spiked sauce, and a slab salad speckled with pancetta, blue cheese, and sundried tomato at a marble-topped table. Or toast the sunset with an extradry martini at the window-facing back counter. $$$, Stanley Marketplace, 2501 Dallas St., Aurora

SUNDAY

VINYL

LODO

This spring, Sunday Vinyl, the nearly five-year-old wine bar by Union Station that spins an in-house record collection, welcomed a new executive chef, Cody Cheetham. Cheetham’s commute didn’t change much, though. Across the portico, the Montana native has worked at upscale Italian restaurant Tavernetta since it opened in 2017, becoming its executive chef in 2019, a position he still holds along with his new post. Luckily for us, Cheetham doesn’t have big plans to change Sunday Vinyl’s tune. Instead, the chef resurrected former menu items, including the beloved pommes frites (try the version with Comté and dry-aged beef tallow), and offers new additions that maintain the spot’s unstuffy attitude. The Fish and Chics lightens up the classic pub plate with vinegary chicory and cauliflower, and the McDonald’s-inspired hash brown topped with ossetra caviar is an instant classic. $$$$, 1803 16th Street Mall

FRASCA

FOOD AND WINE

BOULDER

Frasca executive chef Ian Palazzola doesn’t feel worthy of the fanfare associated with the Italian restaurant’s 20th anniversary this year. After all, he was promoted to the role in spring 2023, just a little more than a year after starting on the culinary team at LoDo’s Tavernetta, Frasca’s sister restaurant. Co-owner and master sommelier Bobby Stuckey was drawn to the Virginia native’s

HOP ALLEY

RINO

After nine years of setting the city standard for modern Chinese fare, Hop Alley, chef Tommy Lee’s urban-chic RiNo restaurant, doesn’t have many secrets left. But if you haven’t heard of its chef’s counter, which launched in February, you’re missing out on one of the most innovative culinary adventures in Denver. Psst: The six-seat bartop is essentially a separate restaurant within the restaurant. Reservations require a $100 per person deposit, and you can’t order from the daily menu. But once seated in front of the 150-square-foot dedicated kitchen, you can dig into highend, craveable cuisine that transcends Hop Alley’s regular flavor boundaries. Most dishes contain some Asian influence; some make it obvious, such as sweet-sour char siu beets, while others are subtle, like umami-laden rib-eye with veal jus and scallion Yorkshire pudding. Whether you opt for the prix fixe tasting or order off the handwritten menu, savor every last bite before the secret gets out. $$$$, 3500 Larimer St.

fine-dining pedigree, which includes a tenure at San Francisco’s Mourad, and his knack for keeping up with the latest cooking trends. For Frasca’s multicourse menus, Palazzola might dye tagliolini jet black with squid ink to give the pasta a striking appearance or finish duck breast with ajvar, a roasted pepper and eggplant relish. His thirst for innovation and talent for carefully procuring ingredients from local purveyors only boosts the institution’s capacity to impress the next generation of diners—proof the chef is more than worthy of executing Frasca’s mission for years to come. $$$$, 1738 Pearl St., Boulder

THE WOLF’S TAILOR

SUNNYSIDE

We’re not the only ones praising the Wolf’s Tailor. Since September 2023, the six-year-old fine-dining restaurant has earned a coveted Michelin star and a Michelin green star for leadership in sustainability, and its owners Kelly and Erika Whitaker took home a James Beard Foundation Award for Outstanding Restaurateur. Even without those shiny medals and puffy mascot prizes, though, the cookery here, led by chef de cuisine Taylor Stark, would win honors from diners. Expect a luxurious tasting menu designed around local ingredients and minimal food waste. For instance, a summer meal featured courses like a green-tomato-slicked pasta made with Rouge de Bordeaux flour; a wood-fired lamb chop served with lingonberry tonkatsu; and a bento-box trio composed of a fresh oyster, truffle panna cotta, and a tuna tartare tartlet. Every bite, including pastry chef Emily Thompson’s stone-fruit-centric layer cake, was deserving of its own accolade. $$$$, 4058 Tejon St.

CARNE

Dana Rodriguez is no newb to Denver’s restaurant scene. Her concepts, such as Work & Class and now-closed Cantina Loca, have all earned acclaim, including, in previous years, mentions on this very list. But Carne, a modern steak house in RiNo that fired up its grills in July, is Rodriguez’s first opportunity to show off the breadth of her culinary résumé. The chef affectionately known as Loca isn’t just a whiz with the flavors of South America and her native Mexico; she’s also spent time in the kitchens of French and Italian restaurants. Hence, along with a selection of steaks that range from a $40 filet to a $175 tomahawk, you’ll find Argentinian tri-tip and chorizo, Italian veal osso buco, and some of the juiciest duck confit in town. Rodriguez also made Carne versatile in terms of its hours. An Afternoon Delight happy hour precedes every dinner service, and at 10 p.m., the party shifts to the upstairs loft, where a trim set of late-night bites and a standalone cocktail menu shine under a disco ball. It’s tempting to stick around all day. Rodriguez agrees, saying, “It’s a steak home.” $$$, 2601 Larimer St.

YUAN WONTON

NORTH PARK HILL

Even with four other chefs on staff and (usually) only offering lunch service, Penelope Wong spends up to 30 hours a week prepping the 5,000-plus dumplings she serves as chef-owner of Yuan Wonton. Most restaurateurs aren’t gutsy enough to build an eatery around such finicky

foodstuffs, but Wong is nothing if not ambitious. In fact, even though the James Beard Foundation Award finalist has hustled since debuting Yuan Wonton as a mobile operation five years ago, she’s only added more to her proverbial plate after opening the brick-and-mortar location in September 2023. Drawing on her Chinese-Thai background, Wong often spawns new creations (try the Hainanese chicken wontons) while keeping up with favorites, such as the OG chile oil wontons. Visit during Friday’s dim sum lunch and order a few kinds of dumplings, including the palm-size Chinese chive pockets, and the yam khai dao—wok-fried eggs served over rice and a tart-spicy herb salad. Before you leave, grab some ube-filled sesame balls for later, and watch the chefs pleat dumplings behind the counter on your way out. $$, 2878 Fairfax St.

OTOTO

Eight-year-old Ototo has been the least-hyped member of South Pearl Street’s so-called Den Corner, which also encompasses nearly 40-year-old Sushi Den and 13-year-old Izakaya Den, both seminal eateries from proprietors Yasu and Toshi Kizaki. But after the Japanese-street-food-centric concept reopened in spring 2023 after a three-year hiatus, the excitement has been palpable. With its mix of inventive fare, preparations of fresh seafood (flown in daily for all three eateries), and more laid-back vibe, Ototo has finally found its verve. Whether you sit at one of the two bars or at a table, you can dial up a meal filled with less-common plates, such as the wok-seared shaved pork with kimchi and the scallop carpaccio with citrusy shiso pesto, as well as a typical selection of sashimi, nigiri, and oshizushi (pressed sushi). Ototo will never be one of the Dens, and that’s fine with us, especially since the restaurant offers something neither of the others does: Sunday brunch. Trust us, the kara age chicken with matcha waffles is worth getting out of bed for. $$$, 1501 S. Pearl St.

DÂN DÃ

AURORA

Six-month-old Dân Dã is the Vietnamese restaurant for diners who want to adventure past ubiquitous staples like pho and banh mi. The Aurora restaurant from An and Thao Nguyen, whose family was behind nowclosed New Saigon, excels at enticing Denverites to try something new, whether that’s whelks topped with garlic butter and XO chile crisp or a salad of steamed pork belly, shrimp, squid, jellyfish, and pickled lotus root. Although it might not seem like it to the uninitiated, Dân Dã (pronounced “yuhng yaa”) is all about comfort food, Vietnamese style. That means balancing the tastes of salty, sweet, sour, and spicy and using harmonious ingredients in

recipes that should be just as universally beloved as chicken noodle soup. The flagship clay pots—hunks of meat, such as catfish fillets or pork tenderloin, bubbling in a caramel sauce—are a prime example and will gratify anyone who enjoys glazed, sweet-salty dishes like Chinese sesame chicken or French duck à l’orange. If you’re still unsure, the Dân Dã Tower, a threetiered column of pork skewers, fried shrimp paste, veggies and herbs, noodles, and other delights meant to be tucked into fresh spring rolls, is the choose-your-own-adventure meal that anyone can get used to. $$, 9945 E. Colfax Ave., Aurora m

Death Comes Fo Us All

BUT IT SHOULDN’T COME LIKE THIS

Over the past six years, Colorado’s funeral industry has made headlines for appalling acts of disrespect to both the dead and the living. Will recently passed legislation stop the atrocities, and how can we protect the ones we love even after they’re gone?

Death Doesn’t Become Us

People have a problem with death—which is odd, really, because other than being born, dying is one of the very few things that we will all experience as human beings. Yet it is only whispered about, if it is discussed at all. We fear it, so we ignore it. Then, when the last breath arrives, we are staggered by the hurt and illequipped to manage the obligations that come with laying a loved one to rest. ¶ It is during the liminal hours between the end and the what-needs-to-happennext—a bleary, anguished, disorienting time—that many of us first encounter the funeral industry. In those vulnerable moments, we often blindly trust a stranger to take possession of our mother or grandfather or husband or daughter and handle our person with compassion and dignity. Most of the time, that is exactly what happens. However, in Colorado, we have recently learned that “most of the time” isn’t nearly often enough.

Over the past six years, four nationalnews-making instances of improper, and often criminal, conduct at Colorado funeral homes have come to light. In Montrose, a funeral home operator promised hundreds of families that she would cremate their loved ones but instead sold their body parts. In Leadville, a mortuary owner commingled cremated human remains. In Penrose, a funeral home left nearly 200 bodies to decompose instead of cremating them. And in Denver, a corpse and the cremains of at least 30 people were found at the onetime residence of a former funeral director. After each of these grisly discoveries, news outlets, law enforcement officials, and state legislators pointed to one notable fact: Colorado is the only state in the nation that, right now, does not require its funeral industry practitioners to be licensed.

Since 1983, when the state’s General Assembly terminated the 70-year-old Board of Mortuary Science, funeral service professionals—funeral directors, embalmers, cremationists—have not been required to pass a criminal background check, graduate from an accredited mortuary science program, obtain any official certification, or pass relevant portions of the national board exam. “There are a lot of people in Colorado who don’t know what they’re doing,” says Javan Jones, who owns funeral homes and crematories in Brush, Wray, and Fort Morgan, went to mortuary science school in Georgia, and is a former president of the Colorado Funeral Directors Association. “This is a skill set. Embalming is a surgery. My personal opinion is schooling and licensure are important. Families under stress should be taken care of by licensed professionals.”

Not everyone agrees: The funeral industry in this country had historically been dominated by family operations, where parents taught the next generation the skills they deemed necessary to take over the business. That changed as states began requiring formal education for licensure. But for the past four decades in Colorado, people have been free to learn from whoever may have been willing to pass on the knowledge. Peter Morley, co-owner of Lakewood’s Stork-Morley Funerals and Cremation, has been doing the job for more than 25 years without a degree. “I learned how to embalm by learning from others,” he says. “But I did get certifications—certified funeral director (CFD) and certified embalming technician (CET)—from the Colorado Funeral Directors Association.”

Still, Morley realizes that recent events have shaken Coloradans and understands why his peers and state legislators introduced a pair of bills during the 2024 legislative session that sought not only to license practitioners, but also to allow state regulators to more robustly inspect funeral homes. Governor Jared Polis signed the bills—HB 24-1335 and SB 24-173—into law in late May. Although both laws are technically active, the state Department of Regulatory Agencies is still sorting out how to implement them (see “Get Involved” below), and current death-care professionals have until January 2027 to apply for licenses. Licenses and inspections can only do so much, though. “These new laws won’t stop bad things from happening,” says Joe Walsh, president of the Colorado Funeral Directors Association and owner of Aurora’s 5280 Cremation Services. “It might keep some of the folks who shouldn’t be in the industry out, but bad people do bad things, regardless.”

With that in mind—and with several years to go before licensing fully goes into effect—we asked local funeral professionals how Coloradans can better navigate an industry that most people don’t think about until they desperately need its services. Their guidance extended beyond the how-tos for selecting a funeral home you can trust to offering sage advice on the need to change the culture surrounding the end of life. “If we can bring conversations surrounding death out from behind closed doors,” says Emily B. Miller, owner of Colorado Burial Preserve, a natural burial cemetery in Florence, “then we can all make better decisions about loved ones’ deaths and our own deaths. If we can bring death out of the shadows, then some of the bad things that have happened might not happen so easily again.”

GET INVOLVED

State agencies use a formal rulemaking process to create regulations to implement legislation. The process ensures that stakeholders can comment on proposed rules and that the public is informed of the rules before they take effect. During October and November, DORA will hold rulemaking sessions for SB 24-173 and HB 24-1335. To receive updates about the sessions, click the link in the bottom right-hand corner of the Colorado Office of Funeral and Mortuary Science Services’ homepage.

TIME OF DEATH

More than 110 years ago, in the interest of public health, Colorado created requirements for embalmers. Seven decades later, the state eliminated them. Recent events have prompted new rules.

1913

The Colorado State Board of Embalming Examiners forms to ensure unqualified people don’t perform inadequate embalming practices that can transmit infectious diseases, especially smallpox.

1968

The board, now called the Board of Mortuary Science, is placed within the Colorado Department of Regulatory Agencies (DORA).

1977

A report from the Office of the State Auditor says the board has become irrelevant because smallpox had been eradicated. The report also states that the board had not adequately protected consumers and that license renewal was a revenue-generating procedure instead of a way to prove licensee competence. The audit suggests the board be disbanded.

1983

The Colorado General Assembly terminates the board and licensure.

1990

The Colorado Funeral Directors and Embalmers Association asks DORA to reinstate regulation of funeral practitioners. DORA declines, saying there had been no pattern of widespread abuse and that claims Coloradans had suffered—or might suffer—harm due to a lack of trained funeral practitioners were unsupported.

2002

Members of the Colorado House of Representatives submit an application to reinstate the board to DORA for review. The proposal is denied.

2006

A bill to license death-care workers passes the General Assembly; however, at the behest of DORA officials and funeral industry lobbyists, Governor Bill Owens vetoes the legislation.

2007

Under its new name, the Colorado Funeral Directors Association once again applies to DORA. The proposal says that because Colorado remains the only state with no direct regulation of the funeral service industry, practitioners who have faced sanctions in other states are relocating to Colorado. The application is denied.

2009

The General Assembly adopts a registration requirement for deathcare businesses and provides title protection to practitioners.

2011

Legislators legalize alkaline hydrolysis—often called water cremation or aquamation.

2018

As a result of a Western Slope funeral home selling human body parts without permission, legislators pass a bill that regulates nontransplant tissue banks in the state.

2021

A bill that allows the natural reduction of human remains—sometimes called human composting—passes the General Assembly.

2022

Lawmakers pass a bill that allows regulators to conduct unannounced inspections of funeral homes and crematories during typical business hours. Up until this point, DORA could investigate complaints related to registered funeral homes but did not have the authority to physically inspect facilities.

2024

Legislators pass HB 24-1335— which strengthens inspections of funeral industry operations—and SB 24-173, a law that will require people to be licensed to practice as funeral directors, mortuary science practitioners, embalmers, cremationists, or natural reductionists.

WHEN THE UNTHINKABLE HAPPENS TO YOU

Grieving families say the hurt is inconceivable, but there’s anger, too.

Gregory Lowe can barely get the words out. He works at Ace Hardware in Montrose, so he knew what Sunset Mesa Funeral Home had given his mother wasn’t his father’s remains. “It looked like concrete patch when we opened it,” says Lowe, whose family was contacted by the FBI several years after his dad’s death. “We sell it at the store. Gray, ashy-looking stuff. I was like, What the heck? That’s not human ash.”

Lowe was correct. Instead of cremating his father as they were paid to do, Megan Hess and Shirley Koch had sold his body parts. The owners of Sunset Mesa had done the same thing with the body of 46-year-old David McCarthy Jr., a fact his wife, Danielle (pictured above), didn’t know until the FBI called her in 2018, a little less than a year after her husband of 25 years suffered a fatal heart attack associated with Gulf War syndrome. Shelia Canfield-Jones (pictured at far right), whose 38-year-old daughter was supposed to be cremated in 2019 but was instead found decaying inside Penrose’s Return to Nature Funeral Home in October 2023, says she had a hard time handing over what she had thought were her daughter’s cremains to the FBI. “The agent kept having to convince us,” Canfield-Jones says. “He was like, ‘You have cement in this urn.’ ” Besides being able to understand one another’s grief, Lowe, McCarthy, and Canfield-Jones all have something else in common: They had no idea how lax Colorado’s oversight of its funeral industry was. And they were incensed by it. “It’s infuriating,” Canfield-Jones says. “There are a lot of good people in the industry, but it’s been so easy for the bad players to be bad. We needed to make it harder.”

Desecrated

SUNSET MESA FUNERAL HOME

Montrose, 2018

Case File: Between 2010 and 2018, Megan Hess and Shirley Koch—the daughter-andmother team behind Sunset Mesa Funeral Home—promised hundreds of families that they would cremate their loved ones. Instead, Hess and her mother, without permission, disarticulated the bodies and sold the parts to body broker services, which work with medical research or educational institutions to provide human tissue for anatomy classes. Hess would then deliver fake cremains—often a mixture of cement—to the families. In 2018, the FBI raided the funeral home after receiving tips about illegal activities.

Outcome: Hess and Koch pleaded guilty to mail fraud and aiding and abetting. In January 2023, the women were sentenced to 20 and 15 years in prison, respectively; however, in July, an appeals court ruled that the original judge did not follow sentencing guidelines appropriately. The defendants will be resentenced in February.

BAILEY-KENT FUNERAL HOME

Leadville, 2021

Case File: Former Lake County coroner Shannon Kent was arrested in February 2021 after investigators found an unrefrigerated body, unlabeled cremains, and an abandoned stillborn infant at his funeral homes in Silverthorne, Gypsum, and Leadville. Kent and his wife, who also worked in the business, were charged with abuse of a corpse and other misconduct related to their handling of another decedent. A jury found the couple not guilty on those charges, but Kent was subsequently charged—and pleaded guilty to—unlawful acts related to mixing the cremated remains of a stillborn child with those of at least one other person.

Outcome: Kent surrendered his permits to operate funeral homes, including others in Fairplay, Buena Vista, and Idaho Springs, in 2020 and was ultimately sentenced to 180 days in jail.

Deplorable acts from a handful of funeral home operators have magnified the grief of hundreds of Colorado families. Here’s what happened—and where those cases stand now.

RETURN TO NATURE FUNERAL HOME

Penrose, 2023

Case File: After the county coroner and then Penrose residents complained about goings-on—including a foul smell—at Return to Nature, the FBI discovered in October 2023 that owners Jon and Carie Hallford had left more than 190 improperly stored bodies inside their funeral home. Investigators said the bodies were left to decay without refrigeration, that some were found stacked on top of one another, and that it appeared some of the bodies had been there for four years. As of early September, several bodies had yet to be identified.

Outcome: The Hallfords appeared in court in April; they’re facing more than 250 state counts including abuse of a corpse, money laundering, theft, and forgery. State prosecutors have offered a plea deal—in which Jon would serve a 20-year sentence and Carie somewhere between 15 and 20 years—that the Hallfords have until October 4 to accept. The Hallfords also are facing 15 federal charges.

APOLLO FUNERAL AND CREMATION SERVICES

Denver, 2024

Case File: In February, police arrested Miles Harford—the former owner of Littleton’s Apollo Funeral and Cremation Services, which closed due to financial troubles in 2022—on suspicion of abuse of a corpse, theft, and forgery. Authorities found a woman’s remains inside a broken-down hearse as well as the professionally cremated remains of roughly 30 other individuals on a property Harford had been evicted from in Denver (pictured). Investigators discovered that Harford had given the deceased woman’s family fake cremains.

Outcome: At press time, Harford was set for arraignment on October 18. More charges could be filed then. In the aftermath of Harford’s arrest, Apollo customers were asked to contact police if they had information about Harford’s business practices.

With that in mind, McCarthy and Canfield-Jones became part of the push in early 2024 for legislation that would provide better oversight. In doing so, they learned more than they ever wanted to about the state’s mortuary code, regulatory agencies, the influence of lobbyists, and how it feels to compromise to get bills passed. They also both know that laws are never perfect and government agencies rarely function like the public wants them to. “The bills are a step in the right direction,” Canfield-Jones says. “They probably will need to be tweaked. And we need to keep track of the Department of Regulatory Agencies to make sure they’re doing their job. They are going to have to enforce these things.”

McCarthy concurs, but she’s also interested in another potentially effective tack: creating public awareness of the funeral industry. “Victimhood is tiresome,” McCarthy says. “Instead of being a victim, I want to get information out about interacting with the funeral industry.” The Colorado Springs businesswoman says she thought she was selecting the right funeral home for her husband, but she mostly followed the crowd in Montrose, a town with few options. “I don’t trust this process anymore,” she says. “I’ve now had to do it twice. Once when David died, and then again when we finally got his remains back. Even though they knew what I had already gone through, the funeral home I used the second time still tried to upsell me on an urn. I’m a capitalist, but it felt exploitative. They didn’t want me to watch David go into the crematory—there’s no law against that—but this industry can feel cloak and dagger. I had to insist. And that’s it right there: You have to advocate for yourself and tell them it’s going to happen how you want it to happen.”

It’s been several years since the FBI called him, but it’s apparent that Lowe still can’t believe that what happened to his father really happened. And, he says, it’s impossible to talk to others about the pain. “I mean, what can other people really say?” he says, adding that his mother is still grieving both his father’s death and the fact that his body parts were ultimately found in several states. “There is no punishment harsh enough for that kind of evil,” he says.

Death Notes

A practicing funeral director, 41-year-old Faith Haug is also the program chair of mortuary science at Arapahoe Community College (ACC), which has offered a mortuary science degree program for 30 years. We asked her about working in the death-care industry, her thoughts on how consumers should evaluate funeral homes, and why she thinks education is important.

5280: Not everyone says they want to work in a funeral home as a kid—how did you come to it?

Faith Haug: I was just drawn to it. I feel like people who knew me as a child would be like, “Yup, that seems about right.” Really, though, I like the skill set it requires: You have to know microbiology, chemistry, anatomy,

counseling skills, logistics, business, art, religion. You also must understand grief.

What don’t most people understand about the job?

It’s a 24/7 career with no holidays or weekends. It’s a job that takes it out of you and often doesn’t give that much back. You have to focus

on a grieving family that is never happy to see you. It’s money that has to be spent but not on anything that makes anyone happy.

Colorado hasn’t required a degree to work in the industry, but as the ACC program chair, we’re guessing you think schooling is important?

Going to school in anything gives you context. There is a level of proficiency that’s deeper with an education. If I wanted to dedicate myself to a profession, I’d want to go to school. Learning on the job can be good—and that will be part of the new licensing requirements, in addition to a degree—but in school you learn about how different cultures deal with death, about the history of the profession, about different forms of grief. Those things are important.

There was opposition to implementing licensure for death-care providers. What’s your position?

I’m in favor of licensing; overall, it will raise standards. But I am concerned about a few things. People who think that the state requiring a degree and a license is going to prevent things like what happened at Return to Nature are wrong. The owner of Return to Nature went to school. I also think that they’re offering too many different license types. It’s going to be a lot for DORA, which is an overtaxed agency already, to execute and administer.

Do consumers need to be savvier?

Yes, they do. And what I’d say is this: Don’t wait until someone is dead to look into your options. You need to be in a clear frame of mind—not under a cloud of grief—to make good decisions. If you have a 97-year-old grandmother and haven’t already chosen a funeral home and thought about arrangements, what are you waiting for? Call around, ask for references, read online reviews, tour some facilities, ask about qualifications. This isn’t unlike picking other professionals you need in life—a doctor, a real estate agent— but for some reason people don’t do their homework when they should.

What red flags should people look for?

If you ask to see the entire facility and the funeral home says it can’t, that gives me huge pause. If someone is dismissive of questions, that’s a red flag. If they don’t provide all of the services—like cremation—on-site, I’d want them to tell me very specifically where my loved one is going to be cremated and who is responsible for their body. If they hesitate or seem unsure, that’s a red flag.

THE NEW RULES TO DIE BY

Two laws that will remake the state’s funeral industry.

SENATE BILL 24-173

The Pertinent Parts

SB 24-173 mandates that an individual obtain a license to practice as a funeral director, a mortuary science practitioner, an embalmer, a cremationist, or a natural reductionist. To get that license, an applicant must pass a background check and meet the requirements for each area of practice; these vary slightly but typically include graduating from an accredited mortuary science school or receiving official certifications from an approved association, passing relevant parts of a national board exam, and receiving workplace learning for a year or longer.

What It Means For Coloradans

By January 1, 2027, anyone working as a funeral services practitioner in the state will be licensed. The law also establishes grounds for disciplining an applicant or license holder and authorizes DORA to take corrective actions, which would become publicly available to consumers savvy enough to check DORA’s website before selecting a funeral home or crematory.

HOUSE BILL 24-1335

The Pertinent Parts

This law requires routine inspections of the state’s 311 funeral homes and crematories, a task that will fall to DORA inspectors. Two new dedicated inspectors can now execute checkups outside of typical business hours as well as for a time period after a funeral home has ceased operations.

What It Means For Coloradans

Like businesses in many other service industries, funeral homes and crematories will be regularly scrutinized for best practices by regulators. In the same way a restaurant can be evaluated for cleanliness and food safety by the Colorado Department of Public Health & Environment, funeral homes will now be assessed by DORA to make sure they are up to code.

CUSTOMARILY SPEAKING

Religion, culture, and even geography influence how people want to commemorate death. Finding a funeral home that will honor those desires can be the difficult part.

The room is silent, save for the flickering of candles situated near the head and feet of the sheet-covered body. Jim Cohen lowers his voice to a near whisper as he explains that for people of Jewish faith, it is customary to burn the torches from death until burial. “Jewish people have a lot of customs surrounding death,” the president of Denver’s 88-year-old Feldman Mortuary says. “We assist with all of them.”

While Feldman Mortuary also welcomes non-Jews, it’s easy to see why this City Park funeral home would feel comforting to those who observe Judaism. And that’s by design. Funeral home operators understand that, like any other business, they must differentiate themselves in ways that draw a clientele. As such, mortuaries often specialize and cater to specific spiritual or religious needs. Religion and death have, of course, had a long association, but a belief in a higher power isn’t the only factor in how humans have learned to mark the end of life. Culture is a significant influence, too.

For more than four decades, Pipkin Braswell Funerals, Cremation, and Receptions has primarily served Denver’s Black community by delivering services that honor its traditions. “Our services are more of a celebration of life,” says general manager JaCobe Payne. “If it’s right for the family, we do a crowning ceremony that comes from a verse in the Bible, 2 Timothy, that talks about a crown being awarded to those who reach heaven. We re-enact that by putting a crown on top of the casket. We also read obituaries during services. It puts an emphasis on the amazing things people have done in their lives.”

Latina Funerals & Cremations similarly leans into the needs of Denver’s Latino community. One particularly important custom is that family members carry the casket on their shoulders to the grave. “The other part of it is that there’s always a loud band following behind the casket,” says funeral director Marisa Casillas. “It’s like a little parade for a few blocks. We facilitate that ritual. Most people don’t know that anyone offers those things in Denver.” Casillas says there are other considerations, too. “We do about 80 percent burials,” she says. “Even when we do cremations, there’s almost always a service. That’s just part of the culture, and we’re passionate about helping families follow those traditions from back home.”

That high percentage of traditional burials stands in stark contrast to Colorado as a whole, where 77 percent of final dispositions are cremations. The trend is illustrative of how even geography can play a role in how humans address death. “Colorado has a high rate of cremation nationally because it’s a very transient place,” says Rayanne Mori, owner of the Monarch Society funeral home in North Capitol Hill, which specializes in simple burial and cremation. “Why would you have a loved one buried here if you’re not going to be here in a few years? Cremains are more transportable.”

So how do consumers know if a funeral home will cater to their desires? “People need to ask,” Payne says. “I will never know everything about every custom or tradition, but I’m happy to listen and learn. Make sure the funeral home you’re working with has a willingness to learn and understand your needs.”

Multiple-Choice Questions

Colorado is one of the most progressive states in the nation when it comes to how a person can legally be laid to rest. You just have to choose how you want to spend eternity.

ONE

Traditional burial is what most people think of when discussing final disposition plans, and it might be right for you if you:

 Want to have a conventional funeral service, possibly with public viewing, and are OK with being embalmed, a procedure that drains the blood and replaces it with chemicals that temporarily preserve the body

 Are down with paying for the vessel (on average, prices range from $2,000 to $5,000), the grave liner or vault (starting around $1,000), and a cemetery plot (between $1,000 and $4,500 on average)

 Don’t mind the environmental impact of embalming fluids leeching into the soil, the carbon emissions released when metal caskets degrade in the ground, and the fertilizers, herbicides, and water resources used on traditional cemetery land

 All of the above

TWO

Green burial is as old as time immemorial, yet many modern cultures have moved away from the ashes-to-ashes, dust-to-dust practice. It might be a good choice for you if you:

 Subscribe to certain religious traditions—like Judaism—that do not believe the natural deterioration of the body should be slowed down by the use of embalming chemicals

 Would prefer a simple, biodegradable casket (starting around $700) or to forgo a vessel and instead be wrapped in a natural shroud (starting around $200) and tucked into the earth

 Like the idea of a reasonably priced option that still includes a final resting place (see “Final Habitat,” page 73)

 All of the above

THREE

Cremation, in which the body is burned to reduce it to ashes, accounts for 77 percent of final dispositions in Colorado. You might select cremation if you:

 Need to take cost into account; the average price for a direct cremation (no memorial services included) is roughly $1,600 in Colorado

 Don’t have a family cemetery plot and/or would like your family to be able to carry your ashes with them wherever they go

 Aren’t concerned with the heavy environmental impact of burning fossil fuels (28 gallons of fuel are typically needed) and understand that scattering cremains can actually be toxic to plants and animals

 All of the above

FOUR

Water cremation, sometimes called alkaline hydrolysis or aquamation, is a process in which the body is placed in a vessel with many gallons of water and an alkali and heated to 170 degrees

to decompose the body in approximately four hours. Choose water cremation if you:

 Like the idea that your so-called liquid essence can be used as a fertilizer for your family’s flower boxes, for flower farms, and at nature preserves here in Colorado

 Want your family and friends to be able to keep or scatter your bones, which are reduced to a nontoxic powder after the aquamation process is complete

 Find it appealing that water cremation (starting at about $4,400) consumes only 10 percent of the energy that fire cremation does

 All of the above

FIVE

Natural reduction, often called human composting or terramation, is the process of placing a body in a vessel with four times the body’s weight of organic matter (often straw and alfalfa) and letting it decompose over several months to create soil. The service starts at around $9,000, and it might work for you if you:

 Find the notion of returning to the earth—but in a more controlled environment—attractive

 Want your family to be able to use the resulting soil it receives (roughly 300 to 400 pounds of nutrient-rich earth) in their rose gardens or to plant, say, a tree in the backyard

 Desire a laying-in ceremony, where your family helps place the organic materials and any biodegradable mementos into the vessel with you

 All of the above

ANSWERS: The correct answer for all five questions is All of the above.

COMPOSTING ANDY

Carrie Davis’ 42-year-old husband decided he wanted to be naturally reduced when he was sick with leukemia. When he died in November 2021, she honored his wishes.

Andy was a ski bum and beer lover I met in Santa Fe. We got married in 2011 and moved to Colorado in 2014. I work as a forensic scientist, and Andy was the best stay-at-home dad to our daughter, who was five when he was first diagnosed with leukemia. He had a bone marrow transplant and was in remission for two and a half years before the cancer came back in August 2021. We’d never really had a conversation about what he’d want done if he ever died, but a friend of mine’s wife had died suddenly, and he told me he regretted never having had that talk with her. Bringing up that conversation with Andy was difficult for me. I didn’t want him to think that I thought he was going to die, so I brought up an article about natural reduction that we’d previously read in People—and I was just like, “So…what would you want done?” He said he wanted to be composted, and that was the extent of it. It wasn’t an in-depth conversation, but at least I knew.

He died in late November. He’d gotten septic, and it took him out in about 12 hours. Right away I thought, OK, I guess I better explore this human composting thing. It became a simple choice because the only funeral home offering it at that time was the Natural Funeral. I went to meet with Seth [Vidal], who explained the process to me, and I loved everything about it. It’s natural, great for the environment, and the body isn’t tied down to one place. What I didn’t realize until Andy was in his vessel at the care facility was how caring it all felt. Chris, Andy’s caretaker, would come talk to me when I visited. He would show me how rich Andy’s soil was becoming. On National Cheesesteak Day, I brought cheesesteaks, which were Andy’s favorite, to have a sandwich next to Andy with my daughter and one of my sisters.

A few months later, I got a full cubic yard of Andy’s soil. Through Arvada’s Plant-ATree Program, we were able to hold a service to plant a tree in a park near our house. We planted a blue spruce with some of the soil and then filled mason jars with the rest so that our friends and family could take Andy home with them to plant trees and flowers wherever they lived. The little tags on the jars said, “Start your flower garden with love.” I go to the tree to talk to Andy now when I need to.

Death makes a lot of people uncomfortable. But sometimes someone will ask me about how it all worked with composting Andy. I tell them we truly did have a celebration of his life when we planted his tree. We had Torchy’s cater it; we had kegs of beer; the wine ran out; and people stayed for an after-party. But the most important part was that everyone got to take a piece of Andy home. —As told to Lindsey B. King

FINAL HABITAT

A place where becoming worm food is the point.

Colorado has what Emily B. Miller calls an “embarrassment of heartbreakingly beautiful alpine meadows,” yet when the former funeral director tried to help a family find a local cemetery specializing in natural burials, she couldn’t. “There were no options,” she says. “Not one without lawn mowers ripping through, not one with a focus on restoration, not one with an emphasis on earth burial, which is the original answer to the question of what to do when there’s been a death.”

So, in 2020, Miller took equity out of her house to buy the land that became the Colorado Burial Preserve, an 80-acre green cemetery near Florence. On this parcel of headstone-less terrain there are few vestiges of a traditional burial ground. “The plots are marked,” Miller says, “but they blend in with the land.”

The goal is to care for the dead with minimal environmental impact. Here, bodies cannot be embalmed and must be buried either in an unsealed biodegradable casket or in an organic burial shroud. Without chemicals or steel caskets, the body decays quickly. Miller also welcomes remains from aquamation and terramation but only allows fire-cremated remains if families let her treat the ashes for toxicity. “All of this means this land is healthy and can actually be a gathering place,” she says. “I intend for this place to change how we interact with cemeteries.”

Matters Of Life & Death

We asked local experts to give us their answers to some frequently asked questions.

What does our culture get wrong about death?

“We have a culture that puts questions about the end of life behind closed doors. We distance ourselves from death and dead bodies. Part of the problem is that we immediately think: What do we do with this body? In natural death care, it’s about slowing down and spending time with the body of your loved one. You carry your people to their final resting places. You have the experience of digging the dirt, you can hand-lower the body, you plant new life that will be nourished by the person’s body. The ritual is healing.”

—Emily B. Miller, owner, Colorado Burial Preserve, Florence

Do I really need a funeral or a memorial service or a celebration of life?

“A death is a very distressing situation. Death knocks us off balance. Having a ceremony, having some ritual, having some steps to go through, gives us more of a sense of control. And it really allows us to get in touch with our emotions. We need it to be able to process the death of someone in our lives. It doesn’t matter if it’s just a family dinner; that can be the ceremony. It just allows you to touch the feelings.”

—Jamie Sarche, director of preplanning, Feldman Mortuary, Denver

What’s one of the most difficult things for a funeral home to manage?

“Figuring out who’s in charge. You’ll get someone saying I’m the oldest child, I make all the decisions. That’s not how it works. If there are six kids, I need four of the six to sign for a cremation. I don’t think most people know you can prearrange your own funeral in Colorado; just put it in your will that you want to be cremated and say who gets the cremains. That way there’s no fighting over how the cremated remains are split up. I have had remains in the back of my funeral home that were there for a year waiting for the courts to tell me who gets them.” —Peter Morley, owner, Stork-Morley Funerals and Cremation, Lakewood

Can I prepay for my funeral?

“About one-third of the families we serve have preplanned and prepaid. I’m accustomed to hearing appreciation from the survivors when preplanning has taken place. Survivors seem to appreciate that much of the decision-making has already taken place, the expenses for the goods and services were locked in, and that it was prepaid. I would add that setting aside these funds in Colorado requires compliance with Colorado law administered by the Colorado Division of Insurance. The funds must be placed in a trust fund or an insurance policy. I think it’s good advice that people prefund with a company that has a sterling reputation.”

—John Horan, senior vice president, Horan & McConaty, Denver

Why is it important that Colorado law allows for alternative forms of final disposition?

“The environmental piece of these practices—aquamation and terramation—is core. Conventional disposition is bad for the Earth. We’ve all just been doing what our parents did. A body is whisked away, embalmed with toxic chemicals, placed in a lead-lined casket, and put in a cement vault. Cemeteries are toxic waste sites. Colorado legislators had an awakening, and now we have options. I know there is a natural inclination to embrace old traditions, but I think we need to ask ourselves some questions: What do I want to be done with this beautiful vessel that I lived in? Can I not leave a carbon footprint on the way out?”

—Mike Reagan, CEO, The Natural Funeral, Lafayette

How is dying different in the digital age?

“We live in the time of social media and devices. People need to be careful about posting about a death on, say, Twitter. It might be your friend, but if that person’s family isn’t ready for the world to know, then you’ve added to their grief. Also, families often don’t know their loved one’s iPhone passcode. All those photos and last texts that a family might now really want, they can’t get to. I can’t tell you how many times someone has said, ‘If I just had that last photo we took together.’ ” Kelsi Tesone Mathews, owner, In Memoriam Funeral Parlour and Crematory, Broomfield

What is a GPL?

“GPL stands for general price list, and funeral homes are required by the Federal Trade Commission to provide one to family members immediately, even over the phone. There should never, ever be any surprises regarding cost. A funeral home can’t change costs after the fact or add fees that aren’t disclosed.” —John Horan, senior vice president, Horan & McConaty, Denver

Is embalming required by law?

“No. Colorado law states that a body simply has to be refrigerated or embalmed within 24 hours of death. If you want to be with your loved one for a few hours, you should. Call your funeral home and let them know the death has happened and that you’d like to sit with your family member for a little while.” —Faith Haug, program chair of mortuary science, Arapahoe Community College, Littleton

I keep hearing about third-party vendors. What does that mean?

“Some funeral businesses farm everything out. They don’t have their own caskets, their own urns, their own crematories, their own spaces for services. They don’t do their own embalming. What this means is that while you might like or trust the owner of that business, there are potentially many other subcontractors who you might know nothing about. There are closed-tothe-public companies—called trade shops—that just do embalmings and cremations all day. They don’t work with families. When subcontractors are used, it means that your loved one does not stay in the hands of that first business owner. They can be handled with little oversight.”

—Javan Jones, owner, Schmidt-Jones Funeral Home, Wray

THE BEST-LAID PLANS

I’d never really thought about what I’d want my after-party to look like—until someone asked me.

Jamie Sarche doesn’t like small talk. She likes big talk. That fact became very clear when Jim Cohen, the owner of Denver’s Feldman Mortuary, asked her to pop into his office, where he and I had been chatting. After Cohen pointed at me and summarily informed his director of preplanning that “she doesn’t have a person,” Sarche smiled a warm smile and said something like, “Well, then we’ll take care of it with you.”

Why is dying so expensive?

“We’re like any other business; we provide a service. I pay three full-time staffers. I have a mortgage on the funeral home property. I have insurance. I have vehicle maintenance costs and special-use permit costs. I wanted an on-site crematory, so I had to buy a retort, which has fuel costs. And funerals are events; there are costs with organizing a final event. So, yes, funerals cost money. Even my own grandmother told me dying costs too much. I told her to start saving up.”

—Kelsi Tesone Mathews, owner, In Memoriam Funeral Parlour and Crematory, Broomfield

Can I donate my body to science?

“Since 1927, the State Anatomical Board, located at the University of Colorado’s School of Medicine, has accepted donated bodies for the purposes of education and research. Today, we take in between 230 and 250 donor bodies annually, all of which are used by students in medical, dental, physician assistant, and physical therapy schools. Every body that comes here comes to us directly. They’ve consented and chosen to be here to help others learn. After a death you can call us, or visit the State Anatomical Board website to prearrange your donation.” —Kate Serr, administrator of the whole body donor program, State Anatomical Board, Aurora

By “it,” Sarche meant my funeral. I’m 45 years old, I am healthy and fit for my age, and I don’t have any immediate plans to kick it. But as Cohen rightly pointed out, I do not have a spouse. I also don’t have any children. In other words, I don’t have the people in my life who might typically be responsible for the logistics surrounding my death if I live a long life. This wasn’t really a problem, Sarche said, because Colorado law protects an individual’s right to prearrange their own permanent going-away party. So long as the associated costs are covered and a responsible party—a lawyer, a funeral home director, a power of attorney, etc.—has your written-out wishes, not even a spouse can override them.

As the queen of preplanning at Feldman for the past 15 years, Sarche ignored the fact that I’d come to the mortuary as a reporter with a whole lot of queries and told me we should set up a time to chat. “Death sucks,” she said. “Embrace it.”

So, I did. In early July, I met with Sarche to do a preplanning session. This time, she was the one asking the questions. In characteristic Sarche style, it wasn’t small talk. It was a conversation about Death with a capital D. “Talking about death,” she said, “should be a foundational part of our lives. I fight against a culture that says we shouldn’t ever talk about it.”

But talk about it we did. She wanted to know why, beyond not having “a person,” I might consider preplanning. (I told her my grandmother had recently died and mortality was more real for me these days.) She asked me about my religion. (I don’t have one.) She wondered about my values regarding the environment. (I recycle, compost, and follow leave-no-trace principles like any self-respecting Coloradan.) She wanted to know if I wanted an obituary. (Yes, but only if I get to prewrite it like John Cusack in Serendipity.) She explained and then asked what I thought about flame cremation, water cremation, traditional burial, green burial, and natural reduction. (Probably water cremation but maybe natural reduction.)

Those were the easy questions. The most difficult line of inquiry centered on ceremony— as in, did I want one, and, if so, what would it look like? I have always been of the mind that memorial services are for the living, and that I’d want my loved ones—my parents, my brother, and my close friends—to do whatever felt right for them. That’s when Sarche stopped me: “Here’s what happens, though,” she said. “They can’t think. Their daughter has died. They will not know how to get their own needs met. This plan you make is for them.”

I now have a basic outline. It might change, but based on Sarche’s estimates, it would cost $5,627.50, which I could prepay in monthly installments of $75.97 over 10 years if I wanted to. (I don’t.) Here’s what my party will look like: No flowers. No church. No limousines. No clergy. There can be a hired celebrant, unless a friend wants to officiate. My body will not be at the service, which will be held outside on a hot summer day. There will be rum and Coke and lime wedges on hand. Then my family and friends will, whenever possible, sprinkle my bone dust in the ocean, preferably in blue-green Caribbean waters. So, yeah, that’s the plan. —LBK m

The Aspen Democrat chased Lauren Boebert out of western Colorado with a savvy, practical, centrist message. Now that he’s facing a practical Republican opponent in Jeff Hurd, his mission to flip the reliably red district has gotten a whole lot harder.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL J. BRENNER

ON A BRISK DAY

in early January, Adam Frisch, the Democratic congressional candidate for Colorado’s 3rd District, is in Denver for an event at the National Western Stock Show and to see a Nuggets game—and to accept a moral, if anticlimactic, victory. He’s wearing a suit jacket with subtle Western stitching, a pressed blue button-down, and dark slacks accented by a red-and-white embroidered belt. There’s an American flag pinned to his lapel.

Today, Frisch isn’t wearing the cowboy boots so many Western Slope politicians favor and instead wears sporty blue dress shoes. After all, even though there are some ranchers in his family’s history, he’s not a cowboy. Frisch, in his own words, is a fairly successful, straight, middle-aged white guy from Aspen trying to become the first Democrat since 2010 to represent western Colorado in the U. S. Congress. He rides no horse, but he does drive a red Ford F-150. And despite the fact that he does not drink coffee, we’re sitting in a Cherry Creek cafe discussing his candidacy and the state of his race, in which, at the moment, he doesn’t have an obvious opponent from the Republican Party.

His energy, as it has been throughout his campaign, is frenetic. He speaks fast and waves his hands, picking things up from the table and gesticulating with them. At one point, he grabs my notebook and points to an imaginary spot on a blank page indicating the location of Montana’s Fort Peck Indian Reservation, where he lived for a few years after he was born. A few minutes later, we start talking about what the hell just happened a week ago.

“I’m a pretty humble person,” Frisch says. “But if it wasn’t for us, she’d still be there.”

“SHE” IS U.S. REPRESENTATIVE Lauren Boebert, the MAGA flamethrower who, in 2020, seemingly came out of nowhere to win Colorado’s 3rd Congressional District. Since then, her time in office has been marked more by theater than policy. She runs in the same circles as Representative Marjorie Taylor Greene of Georgia and Representative Matt Gaetz of Florida, congressional firebrands whose stunts have made them household names. The difference between Boebert and those other representatives, though, is that she’s politically vulnerable. In 2022, Frisch nearly unseated her.

Frisch remembers it like this: In fall 2021, he heard the congresswoman say something boorish. He doesn’t remember the line precisely, but it was on-brand. “I thought, Oh, my goodness. Is there any way she can be defeated?”

He spent the next 12 months trying to answer that question. He drove 25,000 miles crisscrossing the district with his then 16-year-old son, Felix, winning the Democratic primary by 289 votes along the way. He and his family converted their old camper into a Beat Boebert Buggy and towed it to more than 100 campaign stops. They arranged Beat Boebert barbecues and Beat Boebert brewery events.

The now 57-year-old slowly caught the attention of mainstream Democrats, and by election night, politicos around the country were Googling his name. When polls closed on November 8, 2022, Frisch was winning. The race wouldn’t be decided for another 10 days, though, and Frisch ultimately lost by 546 votes in a race in which 327,132 were cast. When he called Boebert to concede, he says, she asked if he was going to “call off” the recount, which is mandated by state statute. “Then she made some snide remark, like, ‘You did a great job running as a Republican,’ ” he says.

By early 2023, as Boebert’s second term in the U.S. House of Representatives began, Frisch did what many political observers thought he’d do. He got back on the road and, this time with the backing of national Democrats, raised money at a record clip. By September 2023, around the time Boebert was ejected from a Denver theater for puffing a vape pen and groping a male companion, Frisch was polling two points ahead of the incumbent. Money poured in.

The answer to Frisch’s question was clear: Yes, Lauren Boebert could be defeated. And it appeared as if, yes, Frisch could do it. But another question quickly presented itself: Was it possible that he could beat her too soon?

The answer to that question was also yes. On December 27, 2023, Boebert announced that she would abandon her re-election bid in the 3rd Congressional District and move hundreds of miles east to run in the more conservative 4th Congressional District, an opening created when Republican Representative Ken Buck announced his intent to resign his seat early. Boebert set her eyes on a part of Colorado where she clearly believed her career could survive.

And just like that, the nemesis Frisch was campaigning against was gone. The news delivered some semblance of a political win—Frisch could take credit for chasing Boebert from the 3rd Congressional District—but it also created a very real problem for his campaign.

Frisch had spent two years arguing against extremism and casting himself as a “pro-normal” candidate, a “conservative” Democrat who cares deeply for rural Colorado and very little for the mudslinging that defines national politics. He was the anti-Boebert, the middle-of-the-road wonk whose message appeared to be resonating better than hers.

The news of Boebert’s surprising, and calculated, move is still fresh on that January day in Denver, but Frisch masks his concern with enthusiasm. He points out that he’s already done the work to build a coalition of Democratic, Republican, and unaffiliated voters in his home district. He argues that Western Slope communities know him and trust him with their concerns about issues like water, health care, and energy. Plus, he says, he’ll have a massive fundraising advantage over whatever Republican emerges in Boebert’s place.

TWO MONTHS AFTER WE MET in Denver, Frisch is in Pueblo, standing in the living room of former city manager Dave Galli and introducing himself to a crowd of about 30 voters. It’s Super Tuesday, and nobody is talking about what, at the time, looked to be a rematch between President Joe Biden and former President Donald J. Trump. Rather, the crowd wants to know what Frisch is all about—where he’s from, who he is, what makes him tick.

He talks about his upbringing: how his great-grandparents emigrated from Europe, how his dad worked for the Indian Health Service (which is why Frisch spent the first few years of his life on a reservation in Montana), and how his Jewish family returned to Minneapolis when he was five. He talks about being a ski racer as a kid, and how he moved to the West to ski while he was a student at the University of Colorado Boulder. He talks about injuring himself (he slipped on campus and broke his kneecap) and having to quit racing.

He talks about how he lived in New York City and waited tables after college before landing a job as a global currency trader. He talks about how, during the pandemic, he became a substitute teacher to help fill the educator shortage. He mentions that his political awareness began in high school and how his dad’s job as an OB-GYN who provided abortions led to the family being targeted by bomb threats. There are also some things he doesn’t mention: He neglects to note that his mom was a lawyer, that she helped advocate for an open education system in Minneapolis, and that his parents bussed him into the inner city so he would have a more diverse elementary school experience. He doesn’t talk about the 30 Bob Dylan shows he’s been to or say that he rises at 5:30 a.m. every day to exercise. He mostly sticks to his stump speech, and as he ramps it up, the doorbell rings. “Maybe that’s my wife looking for me,” he quips.

People laugh. Frisch grins. But as his family knows well, the joke reveals a difficult reality about campaigning in Colorado’s 3rd Congressional District. After his events in Pueblo, he’ll return to Aspen for nine days—the longest stretch he’ll have been home in the previous two years. Unlike geographically small districts on the Front Range, Colorado’s 3rd is massive, roughly the size of Pennsylvania. “It’s one of the hardest districts in the country to campaign in,” says Morgan Carroll, who was chair of the Colorado Democratic Party during the 2022 election cycle. “There are dozens and dozens of small communities. They all expect to have a personal relationship.”

To help build those relationships, Frisch leans heavily on his family. Katy Frisch, Adam’s wife, has quietly laid the groundwork for the campaign, beginning in 2022 when state and national Democrats barely knew her husband’s name. “I was the one who planned the 105-stop route down to the minute,” Katy says. “He was late once, and it was his fault.”

When they met in Colorado in the early 2000s, Katy and Adam were recovering from a decade of investment banking and currency trading in New York City. Introduced by a mutual friend, they bonded over a shared love of skiing. (Asked who is the better skier, Katy declines to comment. Adam says, “Oh, come on now, why don’t you ask me about abortion?”) It wasn’t long before they married in the mountains near Vail. “We hung out on the Western Slope for a few years, and I said, ‘If we want to make a go of it from a business standpoint, I think we should move to the Roaring Fork Valley,’ ” Adam recalls.

They’ve lived for 20 years in Aspen, where they’ve raised two kids and have had a continuous impact on community life. Adam worked for the Aspen-Pitkin County Housing Authority before winning a City Council seat, which he held from 2011 through 2019. He ran for mayor in 2019, unsuccessfully. For the past 25 years, Katy has remotely led her family’s business, a telecommunications manufacturing company based in Syracuse, New York. She also served on the Aspen school board from 2019 through 2023.

From left: Frisch speaking at CU Pueblo; the massive 3rd District in red

Frisch knows what some people think—that he’s just a rich guy from Aspen—but the communities Frisch wants to serve in Congress are hardly homogeneous. If he wins the seat in Congress, he’ll represent one of the wealthiest counties in the state (Pitkin, where he lives) as well as some of the poorest (including those in the San Luis Valley near the New Mexico border). “Having a somewhat nontraditional background, from an Indian reservation to Minneapolis, to Colorado, to New York City and back, I’ve had a lot of life experiences,” he says. “That’s something you can’t buy. It just requires living in different communities with different people.”

Although the diversity of the district can be a challenge for candidates, Frisch sees its large number of unaffiliated voters as an opportunity. In 2022, Frisch considered running as an independent (he was an unaffiliated voter in Colorado for two decades) but determined that doing so would be a roughly $15 million proposition. He would need one of the major parties to support him, so he filed as a Democrat and made his case to voters across the district—only 24 percent of whom are Democrats. With 44 percent of the district’s constituents registered as unaffiliated, Frisch’s moderation resonated with voters when contrasted with Boebert’s far-right, MAGA positions on the issues.

In the Pueblo living room on this March evening, Frisch drives the point home. He says he doesn’t care whom people voted for in 2016 or 2020. He doesn’t care how they fill out the rest of their ballots in 2024. He knows Trump will win the district, but he stresses that both of the major national parties have left rural communities behind, and he wants to rectify that. “If there was a Get Stuff Done Party,” Frisch tells the room, “I’d be in the Get Stuff Done Party.”

IT’S JUNE 19 in Grand Junction, a hot, hazy day, and Frisch is booked straight through, starting with a tour of a community hospital and ending with a Juneteenth block party. It’s one week before the primary election that will determine his opponent in November. (Frisch ran unopposed on the Democratic side.) Polling suggests the Republican nominee will be Jeff Hurd, a longtime Grand Junction attorney and a moderate who is also taking credit for chasing Boebert out of the district. Then there’s Ron Hanks, an Air Force veteran, a former state representative from Cañon City, and an election denier who was in Washington, D.C., for the January 6 insurrection.

Around 11 a.m., in the basement of a Unitarian church, Frisch gives his stump speech again before opening the event to questions. The first, from a man near the back of the room, is a request: “Talk about your $100,000 ad campaign against Hurd.”

It’s a reference to a TV buy from the Frisch campaign attacking Hurd for ducking debates, hiding from voters, and taking out-of-state corporate money. Although Frisch denies it, the ads seem to make clear that he’d prefer a matchup against an extremist like Hanks rather than run against a moderate like Hurd. Already, he’s been accused by the National Republican Congressional Committee of meddling in the Republican primary. Frisch answers the question in a measured voice. “Jeff Hurd is a very nice man, great father, great husband,” he says. Frisch explains his campaign is just preparing for the general election, and he notes that the national Republican Party has been meddling themselves, emptying its chest to give Hurd the win.

“I REMEMBER FEELING LIKE, OH, MY GOD, WE COULD ACTUALLY WIN THIS THING.”

An hour later, Frisch and I are sitting at a picnic table with his son, Felix, and Frisch deflects questions about which Republican he’d rather face in November. As they prepare to leave, Felix presses his dad into action: “If you have five minutes, you should say hi to the guy running that other food truck.” Frisch dutifully gets up and introduces himself.

At 18, Felix is a senior adviser and driver of policy for the Frisch campaign. In 2022, when he was 16, he completed his junior year of high school remotely so he could campaign with his dad. Along the way, he built a network of 130 volunteers who made 700,000 phone calls.

By the time he returned to Phillips Academy in Andover, Massachusetts, for his senior year, he was writing letters of recommendation for students who had worked on his dad’s campaign—including one for a college senior applying to Georgetown Law School. After graduating this past spring, he rejoined the campaign full time and deferred his own admission to the University of Chicago. “This is important to me. I’m learning a ton,” Felix says. “College and whatever is next will always be there.”

Felix isn’t just tagging along. He understands that to win in a place like western Colorado, you must shake as many hands as possible and listen to as many potential voters as possible, and, as he did with the food vendor, he’s making sure his dad doesn’t miss those opportunities. It’s a brand of retail politics that can close the gap in a district that has historically leaned Republican by nine points. It’s also a brand of politics Felix has seen work.

He remembers a night in the middle of the 2022 campaign season at a packed brewery in Grand Junction. They had to open all the doors to make space for everyone, and 20 or so people wearing MAGA hats walked in. They were there to listen to Frisch, who was winding up his remarks. “It was one of the best I’d seen him do,” Felix recalls. As he looked around the room, Felix saw one of the people in a MAGA hat applauding his dad, who was talking about his frustrations with national politics and how Democrats have failed to hear the concerns of rural America. “I remember feeling like, Oh, my God, we could actually win this thing,” Felix says.

IT’S TUESDAY, JUNE 25, primary night, and Frisch is in Pueblo—again. For the first time since Boebert hightailed it to the 4th District, Frisch will finally know who he’s up against in November’s general election. His watch party at Walter’s Brewery is packed, and when he arrives a few minutes before polls close, he’s swarmed by supporters, media, and candidates for local office. Tonight, Frisch is wearing black cowboy boots, a redand-white striped shirt, and a blue blazer with two lapel pins: an American flag and a cow painted in the colors of the Colorado flag, a gift he received at a Colorado Cattlemen’s Association meeting.

He’s pulled in all directions as he awaits results. “Pueblo still hasn’t reported?” he asks a campaign staffer in passing. Attendees sip discounted beers and discuss issues in Colorado’s 3rd Congressional District when news trickles out: The Associated Press has called the Republican primary for Jeff Hurd.

Frisch now has an opponent—and with that opponent comes another question. In Colorado’s 3rd Congressional District, can a conservative Democrat lauded for his common sense beat a moderate Republican who is a self-described pragmatist? Conventional wisdom says no. “This dramatically lessens the possibility of [Frisch] being elected in the 3rd District,” says Dick Wadhams, a longtime Republican political consultant in Colorado. “His candidacy was so defined by Boebert. There was an expectation he was

From left: Adam’s son, Felix, and his wife, Katy

Dining Gu ide

SYMBOL KEY

Indicates a restaurant featured in 5280 for the first time (though not necessarily a restaurant that has just opened).

Indicates inclusion in 5280’s 2024 list of Denver’s best restaurants. These selections are at the discretion of 5280 editors and are subject to change.

ACE EAT SERVE

$$$

Uptown / Asian This Uptown restaurant and pingpong hall features Asian-inspired cuisine and 10 ping-pong tables. Try the Sichuan shrimp wontons. Reservations accepted. 501 E. 17th Ave., 303-800-7705. Dinner, Brunch

AFRICAN GRILL & BAR

$$

Lakewood / African Explore a bevy of dishes from across Africa at this warm and inviting restaurant run by the Osei-Fordwuo family. Peanut soups, samosas, and jollof rice are just some of the craveworthy options available here. Reservations accepted. 955 S. Kipling Parkway, Lakewood, 303985-4497. Lunch, Dinner

ALMA FONDA FINA

LoHi / Mexican This contemporary Mexican restaurant wows with its creative, shareable plates, which often feature homemade masa and flavor-packed salsas. The camote asado (roasted sweet potato) is an excellent way to start off your meal. Reservations accepted. 2556 15th St., 303-455-9463. Dinner

ANNETTE

$$$$

BACON SOCIAL HOUSE

$$$

Aurora / American James Beard Award–winning chef Caroline Glover’s Annette delivers a lineup of seasonal salads, pastas, wood-fired proteins, and other comforting bites in a modern, inviting space. Reservations accepted. 2501 Dallas St., Suite 108, Aurora, 720-710-9975. Dinner

ARABESQUE

$$

Boulder / Mediterranean Sip house-made chai and sample Middle Eastern delights in this charming spot. Reservations not accepted. 1634 Walnut St., Boulder, 720-242-8623. Breakfast, Lunch

ASH’KARA

$$$

LoHi / Middle Eastern Chef Daniel Asher offers a playful take on Middle Eastern cuisine at this plant-bedecked eatery. Order the falafel and a shareable tagine. Reservations accepted. 2005 W. 33rd Ave., 303-537-4407. Dinner, Brunch

AVANTI FOOD & BEVERAGE

LoHi / International Current tenants of this food collective include Gorlami Pizza, Bowls by Ko, Quiero Arepas, Knockabout Burgers, and Pho King Rapidos. 3200 Pecos St., 720-269-4778. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

$$

$$

Littleton / Contemporary This fun, casual restaurant’s beloved namesake ingredient is at the forefront of many of its dishes. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 2100 W. Littleton Blvd., Littleton, 720-750-7107. Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch

BAEKGA

$$$

Lowry Field / Korean Chef-owner Sean Baek serves flavorful Korean eats at this quaint Lowry Town Center spot. Don’t miss out on the lunch specials, hearty portions of protein and rice that come with plenty of banchan (side dishes). Reservations not accepted. 100 Quebec St., Suite 115, 720-639-3872. Lunch, Dinner

BANH & BUTTER BAKERY CAFE

Aurora / French Thoa Nguyen crafts French pastries inspired by her Vietnamese heritage at this East Colfax cafe. Go for the dazzling crêpe cakes, each made with 25 to 30 layers. Reservations not accepted. 9935 E. Colfax Ave., Aurora, 720-5139313. Breakfast, Lunch

BECKON

$

THE BRONZE EMPIRE

$$$ Cory-Merrill / Asian This cozy restaurant specializes in Chinese hot pot, which features an aromatic, bubbling broth for cooking fresh ingredients right at your table. Dip everything from noodles to steak into the savory cooking liquid. Reservations accepted. 1591 S. Colorado Blvd., 720-599-8888. Lunch, Dinner

C BURGER

Englewood / American This fast-casual kitchen is the first in Colorado to source 100 percent of its beef from local regenerative farms. Try the classic double cheeseburger with seasoned fries. Reservations not accepted. 200 W. Belleview Ave., Suite 100, Englewood, 720-432-5205. Lunch, Dinner

CAFE BRAZIL

$$$$

RiNo / Contemporary Chef Duncan Holmes brings an elevated, intimate dining experience to Larimer Street. The seasonal menu changes frequently, and excellent, thoughtful wine pairings are available. Reservations accepted. 2843 Larimer St., 303-749-0020. Dinner

BLACKBELLY

$$$

Boulder / American Chef Hosea Rosenberg’s carnivore-friendly menu focuses on charcuterie, small plates, and daily butcher specials. Try the koji-cured heritage pork chop. Also check out the adjacent butcher shop and market, which serves breakfast and lunch. Reservations accepted. 1606 Conestoga St., Boulder, 303-247-1000. Dinner

BLUE PAN PIZZA

$$

West Highland / Pizza Masterfully crafted Detroit-style pizza is the draw at this tiny spot. Try the Brooklyn Bridge, topped with pepperoni, Italian sausage, and ricotta and Romano cheeses. Also try the Congress Park location. Reservations not accepted. 3930 W. 32nd Ave., 720-456-7666. Lunch, Dinner

BRASSERIE BRIXTON

$$$$

Cole / French Pair the likes of steak frites, pâté with house-baked sourdough, and other comforting French specialties with a glass of wine at this neighborhood bistro. Reservations accepted. 3701 N. Williams St., 720-617-7911. Dinner

THE BRITISH BULLDOG

$$

Five Points / Pub This pub serves up a mélange of fare—from English shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to Pakistani curries and all-American burgers—in a casual setting. Reservations not accepted. 2052 Stout St., 303-295-7974. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

$

$$$

Berkeley / Latin American This colorful South American restaurant specializes in seafood and shellfish and is great for those with dietary restrictions. Reservations accepted. 4408 Lowell Blvd., 303-480-1877. Dinner

CARNE

$$$$

RiNo / Steak House The newest restaurant from chef Dana Rodriguez, this “steak home” grills up exquisite cuts of beef at a range of price points. Also explore its internationally inspired menu of shared plates and composed entrées. Reservations accepted. 2601 Larimer St., 303-953-1558. Dinner

CARRERA’S TACOS

$ Greenwood Village / Mexican Brothers Josh and Ryan Carrera sling West Coast–style tacos at this food truck turned brick-and-mortar. Try the Cali burrito, stuffed with french fries and your choice of protein. Reservations not accepted. 7939 E. Arapahoe Road, Greenwood Village, 720-689-8035. Lunch, Dinner

CHOLON

$$$

LoDo / Asian This upscale restaurant serves modern twists on Pan-Asian cuisine. Don’t miss the French onion soup dumplings. Also try the location near Sloan’s Lake. Reservations accepted. 1555 Blake St., 303-353-5223. Lunch, Dinner

CHOOK

$$

Platt Park / Australian Chook specializes in Australian-style, charcoal-grilled rotisserie chicken and fresh veggie sides, like celery-apple slaw and smashed cucumbers. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 1300 S. Pearl St., 303-2828399. Lunch, Dinner

CONVIVIO CAFÉ

$ Berkeley / Cafe This bilingual cafe is named after the Guatemalan convivio, a get-together where all are welcome. Sip on spiced lattes and indulge in pastries and light lunch fare, like alfajores (dulce de leche cookies) and tostadas. Reservations not accepted. 4935 W. 38th Ave. Breakfast, Lunch

CRACOVIA

$$$

Westminster / Polish Traditional dishes are on the menu at this family-owned spot. Try the placki (fried potato and onion pancakes). Reservations accepted. 8121 W. 94th Ave., Westminster, 303484-9388. Lunch, Dinner

CUCINA BELLA

Windsor / Italian Brothers Luis and Heriberto Gutierrez run this easygoing Italian spot in a strip mall. Go for the garganelli alla Burrata, a veggiepacked pesto pasta topped with creamy cheese. Reservations accepted. 9660 E. Alameda Ave., Suite 104, 720-550-8957. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

$$

DAUGHTER THAI KITCHEN & BAR

$$$

LoHi / Thai This date-night-ready Thai restaurant from Ounjit Hardacre serves beautifully plated dishes and inventive cocktails with an elegant ambience to match. Reservations accepted. 1700 Platte St., Suite 140, 720-667-4652. Lunch, Dinner

DÂN DÃ

$$

Aurora / Vietnamese Time-tested family recipes dazzle at An and Thao Nguyen’s Vietnamese eatery dedicated to comfort food. Don’t miss the dazzling spring roll towers and bubbling clay pots. Reservations accepted. 9945 E. Colfax Ave., Aurora, 720-476-7183. Lunch, Dinner

DEL FRISCO’S GRILLE

$$$$

Cherry Creek / Contemporary A more casual iteration of the beloved steak house, this venue serves up classic dishes with modern twists and local ingredients. Don’t miss the cheese steak egg rolls. Reservations accepted. 100 St. Paul St., Suite 140, 303-320-8529. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

DENVER MILK MARKET

$$ LoDo / International Sage Hospitality’s 11-venue collection of bars and restaurants features everything from fresh pasta to poke bowls to lobster rolls. 1800 Wazee St., 303-792-8242. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

DEW DROP INN

$$

Uptown / Contemporary Uptown’s chic neighborhood watering hole serves not only fine cocktails but also thoughtful small bites such as the Big Bowl of Mussels. Reservations not accepted. 1033 E. 17th Ave., 720-612-4160. Dinner

DIMESTORE DELIBAR

$$

LoHi / American This restaurant, bar, convenience store, and market serves elevated deli fare in an eclectic setting. Try the rolled focaccia sandwiches. Reservations accepted. 1575 Boulder St., Suite A, 303-537-5323. Lunch, Dinner

DOUGH COUNTER

$$ University Hills / Pizza This fast-casual pizzeria specializes in Sicilian- and New York–style pies. For the former, we especially like the Triple Threat, which is striped with marinara, pesto, and vodka sauce. The house-made chicken tenders are also delightful. Reservations not accepted. 2466 S. Colorado Blvd., 303-997-8977. Lunch, Dinner

DRAGONFLY NOODLE

$$

LoDo / Asian This eatery from restaurateur Edwin Zoe serves a multinational variety of bao and noodle dishes. Order any of the slurp-worthy bowls of ramen with house-made noodles. Also try the Boulder location. Reservations not accepted. 1350 16th St. Mall, 720-543-8000. Lunch, Dinner

EDGEWATER PUBLIC MARKET

$$ Edgewater / International Satisfy your cravings for everything from wild game sandwiches to Ethiopian fare at this eclectic collective of nearly two dozen food stalls and boutiques. 5505 W. 20th Ave., Edgewater, 720-749-2239. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

EFRAIN’S OF BOULDER

$ Boulder / Mexican This classic institution is known for its lively atmosphere, low prices, and massive bowls of pork green chile. Reservations not accepted. 2480 Canyon Blvd., Boulder, 303440-4045. Lunch, Dinner

EL FIVE

$$$

LoHi / Mediterranean Justin Cucci’s fifth Edible Beats concept boasts panoramic views, a menu of creative tapas, and Spanish-style gin and tonics. Reservations accepted. 2930 Umatilla St., 303524-9193. Dinner

EL NOA NOA MEXICAN RESTAURANT

Lincoln Park / Mexican This restaurant serves authentic Mexican food with top-notch margaritas. Reservations accepted. 722 Santa Fe Drive, 303-623-9968. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

$$

A visit to Rare Finds is nothing short of a treasure hunt that brings the world to you.

From carved consoles and benches to high-quality upholstered and top grain leather sofas and chairs, lighting, architectural elements, unique accents and accessories for every space in your home—a visit to Rare Finds engages your senses and your imagination. We follow design trends, visit trade shows around the world, and listen to our customers, whether they are furnishing a house in town or a mountain getaway. Our pieces are handpicked to reflect the kind of ease and individuality that makes Rare Finds Denver’s go-to location for unique furnishings. We especially enjoy seeing how our customers incorporate their rare finds into their everyday living and working spaces.

TWO CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: DENVER AND HIGHLANDS RANCH

EL TACO DE MEXICO $

Lincoln Park / Mexican This Denver favorite serves Mexican food with an emphasis on authenticity. Try the chile relleno burrito. Reservations not accepted. 714 Santa Fe Drive, 303-623-3926. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

ELWAY’S

$$$$

Downtown / Steak House This sleek restaurant named after the Broncos great serves classic steak house fare in upscale environs. Reservations accepted. 1881 Curtis St., 303-312-3107. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

EMPRESS SEAFOOD RESTAURANT $$

Valverde / Asian This Cantonese restaurant specializes in dim sum and seafood plates. Reservations accepted. 2825 W. Alameda Ave., 303-922-8288. Lunch, Dinner

FAMILLE

$$$$

Westminster / French Located inside the Origin Hotel, this all-day bistro specializes in seasonally inspired French fare prepared with sustainable ingredients. Brunch is served daily. Reservations accepted. 8875 Westminster Blvd., Westminster, 720-647-6041. Breakfast, Dinner, Brunch

FARM & MARKET $

RiNo / Health This 3,000-square-foot hydroponic farm sells its grown-in-water greens and also transforms them into grab-and-go salads and soups. Reservations not accepted. 2401 Larimer St., 303-927-6652. Lunch, Dinner

FARMHOUSE THAI EATERY

$$

Lakewood / Thai This cozy spot offers flavorful specialties from multiple regions, including papaya pok pok and khao kha moo. Reservations not accepted. 98 Wadsworth Blvd., Suite 117, Lakewood, 303-237-2475. Lunch, Dinner

FINN’S MANOR

RiNo / Pub The indoor bar serves a wide selection of cocktails, while food trucks offer a diverse variety of bites, from fried chicken sandwiches to Puerto Rican fare. Reservations not accepted. 2927 Larimer St. Dinner

FISH N BEER

$

$$$

RiNo / Seafood Kevin Morrison offers approachable, fresh seafood and a hearty beer list at this casual oysterette. Try the ceviche or wood-fired whole bass. Reservations accepted. 3510 Larimer St., 303-248-3497. Dinner

FLAGSTAFF HOUSE

$$$$

Boulder / Contemporary Located on the side of Flagstaff Mountain, this eatery has a huge wine list and a spectacular view of Boulder. Try the foie gras. Reservations accepted. 1138 Flagstaff Road, Boulder, 303-442-4640. Dinner

FRANK & ROZE

Hale / Cafe This stylish cafe serves sustainably sourced coffee from South America, Africa, Asia, and beyond. Try the breakfast sandwiches. Reservations not accepted. 4097 E. Ninth Ave., 720328-2960. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

$

FRASCA FOOD AND WINE

$$$$

Boulder / Italian The elegant fare at Frasca, an ode to the cuisine of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in Italy from master sommelier Bobby Stuckey and chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson, always wows. Splurge on executive chef Ian Palazzola’s ninecourse Friulano menu. Reservations accepted. 1738 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-442-6966. Dinner

G-QUE BBQ

$$

Westminster / Barbecue This fast-casual joint serves award-winning hickory-smoked pork, brisket, ribs, and more. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 5160 W. 120th Ave., Suite K, Westminster, 303-379-9205. Lunch, Dinner

GAETANO’S

$$$

LoHi / Italian This neighborhood hangout features old-school favorites, such as chicken Parmesan. Reservations accepted. 3760 Tejon St., 303-4559852. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

THE GREENWICH

RiNo / Pizza Restaurateur Delores Tronco brings a slice of her favorite New York City neighborhood to RiNo at the Greenwich. Reservations accepted. 3258 Larimer St., 720-868-5006. Dinner

GUARD AND GRACE

$$$

$$$$

Downtown / Steak House Chef Troy Guard’s modern steak house offers a chic setting for its elevated fare. Reservations accepted. 1801 California St., 303-293-8500. Lunch, Dinner

Furniture Row Companies® is a group of specialty home furnishings and mattress stores, carrying a variety of brand names, all available at one convenient location. We focus on providing a shopping experience that is tailored to your needs. Our specialized buying teams are constantly combing the globe in search of the hottest trends and best values available. In addition, incentives like our no interest financing and our highly knowledgeable, specialized sales staff, make Furniture Row one of the most enjoyable furniture buying experiences you’ll find in the country today.

GUSTO

$$$

West Colfax / Italian From chef Lon Symensma of ChoLon fame, this Italian eatery abutting Sloan’s Lake plates up a playful variety of antipasti, pastas, and pizza. Reservations accepted. 1671 N. Raleigh St., 303-284-0932. Lunch, Dinner

HASU SUSHI & GRILL

$$$

Cherry Creek / Asian Try the aptly named Amazing Roll: chopped fatty tuna, cucumber, and scallion on the inside; avocado, crispy kani, eel, and special sauce on the outside. Reservations accepted. 250 Steele St., Suite 104, 303-7229968. Lunch, Dinner

HEY KIDDO

$$$$

Berkeley / Contemporary From the team behind the Wolf’s Tailor and Brutø, this eclectic, globally inspired restaurant presents fine dining fare in relaxed environs. Reservations accepted. 4337 Tennyson St., Suite 300, 720-778-2977. Dinner

HIRA CAFE & PATISSERIE

$

Aurora / Ethiopian Pastry chef-owner Hiwot Solomon pairs her from-scratch desserts and Ethiopian breakfast plates with house-roasted, single-origin coffee at this cheery cafe. Reservations not accepted. 10782 E. Iliff Ave., Aurora, 720949-1703. Breakfast, Lunch

HOP ALLEY

$$$$

RiNo / Chinese From Tommy Lee of Uncle, this neighborhood hangout’s daily menu is composed of dishes rooted in Chinese tradition with a distinctive flair. If spots are open at the luxurious chef’s counter, though, don’t miss the exclusive experience. Reservations accepted. 3500 Larimer St., 720-379-8340. Dinner

HUDSON HILL

Capitol Hill / American Head to this upscale yet casual bar for craft cocktails like the pineapple daiquiri. Enjoy your drink with a cheese plate or pickled okra. Reservations not accepted. 619 E. 13th St., 303-832-0776. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

IMPERIAL CHINESE

$$

$$$ Baker / Asian This stalwart offers Cantonese, Mandarin, and Sichuan food in an elegant setting. Reservations accepted. 431 S. Broadway, 303698-2800. Lunch, Dinner

INDIA’S RESTAURANT

$$

Hampden / Indian This spot serves traditional fare, including flavorful dishes like tandoori chicken. Take advantage of the lunch buffet, and be sure to try the cinnamon bread pudding. Reservations accepted. 8921 E. Hampden Ave., 303-755-4284. Lunch, Dinner

ISTANBUL CAFE & BAKERY

$ Washington Virginia Vale / Middle Eastern Friendly owner Ismet Yilmaz prepares authentic Turkish pastries. Try the su böreği (water börek) or pistachio baklava. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 850 S. Monaco Parkway., Suite 9, 720-787-7751. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

IZAKAYA DEN

$$$ Platt Park / Japanese Ultra-fresh sushi, sashimi, and creative small plates are on the menu at this local favorite. Reservations accepted. 1487-A S. Pearl St., 303-777-0691. Lunch, Dinner

J’S NOODLES STAR THAI 2

$ Westwood / Thai This traditional Thai spot has developed a cult following over the years. The tom yum soup, drunken noodles, and pad thai are regulars’ picks. Reservations not accepted. 945 S. Federal Blvd., 303-922-5495. Lunch, Dinner

JAX FISH HOUSE & OYSTER BAR

$$$ LoDo / Seafood Enjoy sustainable seafood in an upbeat atmosphere. Specialties include the raw oyster bar and seasonally composed plates. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 1539 17th St., 303-292-5767. Dinner

JERUSALEM RESTAURANT

$$ University / Middle Eastern You can’t beat this spot’s tasty, affordable, and traditional Middle Eastern fare, including gyros, baba ghanoush, and sambusas. Plus, it’s open until 3 a.m. every day. Reservations accepted. 1890 E. Evans Ave., 303777-8828. Lunch, Dinner

KAHLO’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT

$$ Westwood / Mexican Enjoy plates of mole and enchiladas verdes, as well as a menu of almost 30 different juices and smoothies, in a space decorated with the art of Frida Kahlo. Reservations accepted. 3735 Morrison Road, 303-936-0758. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

modern symphony in sunnyside

KAOS PIZZERIA

Platt Park / Pizza A wood-fired oven, gourmet ingredients, and wine to-go make this a perfect pizzeria for dine-in or delivery. If the weather’s nice, dine in the garden. Reservations accepted. 1439 S. Pearl St, 303-733-5267. Lunch, Dinner

$$

This Sunnyside home combines modern finishes with breathtaking views, highlighted by hardwood flooring and a striking hex tile entry. The chef’s kitchen features a large island, stainless steel appliances and a wine fridge. The living areas open to a covered patio and secluded backyard, with a barn door offering rental or multi-generational living potential. The upper level boasts a luxurious primary suite with a private balcony, and a rooftop deck provides stunning vistas.

303 638 6552 caitlin@milehimodern.com

KAWA NI $$$$ LoHi / Asian Connecticut transplant Bill Taibe helms this upscale izakaya concept in LoHi. Peruse the eclectic menu of noodles, sushi, and small plates, and don’t miss the shaved broccoli miso goma. Reservations accepted. 1900 W. 32nd Ave., 303-455-9208. Dinner

KIKÉ’S RED TACOS

LoHi / Mexican This brick-and-mortar location of the popular Mexican food truck is known for its queso tacos, which come stuffed with cheese and your choice of meat. Doctor up your order with the rainbow of sauces at the salsa bar. Reservations not accepted. 1200 W. 38th Ave., 720-3970591. Lunch, Dinner

LA CHIVA

$

$$

Platt Park / Colombian This brick-and-mortar, spawned from the popular food truck of the same name, gives Denverites a cozy, colorful place to enjoy the cuisine of chef-owner Jorge Aguirre’s native Colombia. Reservations accepted. 1446 S. Broadway, 720-389-9847. Lunch, Dinner

LA FORÊT

$$$$

Speer / French Transport yourself to the forest at this cocktail-centric French restaurant decorated with floor-to-ceiling aspen trunks. Head in during pastis hour to sample the anise-flavored apéritif with small plates, or dine on dishes like stag au poivre or rabbit vadouvan. Reservations not accepted. 38 S. Broadway, 303-351-7938. Dinner

LEEZAKAYA

$$$$ Aurora / Japanese From the team behind Tofu Story and Mono Mono Korean Fried Chicken, this swanky eatery boasts a large menu of Japanese bites and sake. The mentaiko creamy pasta is a must-order. Reservations accepted. 2710 S. Havana St., Aurora, 720-769-6595. Lunch, Dinner

LEVEN DELI CO.

$$ Golden Triangle / Deli Classic deli meets California cool at this bright spot. Get a taste of the house-made pastrami on the Reuben sandwich or go for the crisp chop salad. Reservations not accepted. 123 W. 12th Ave., 303-325-5691. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

LOS CHINGONES

$$ RiNo / Mexican Los Chingones offers shareable Mexican fusion cuisine with distinctive style. Enjoy a delicious lineup of quesos, enchiladas, and tacos and a selection of tequila-based cocktails. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 2463 Larimer St., 303-295-0686. Lunch, Dinner

LOU’S ITALIAN SPECIALTIES

$$ Curtis Park / Italian This takeout-only spot by Josh Pollack of Rosenberg’s Bagels & Delicatessen takes after classic Tri State Italian delis. Try the Louie, a classic sub packed with salami, capicola, and ham sliced to order. Reservations not accepted. 3357 N. Downing St., 720-287-3642. Lunch, Dinner

FOOD IS A HUMAN RIGHT.

LUCINA EATERY & BAR

$$$

South Park Hill / Latin American Bold flavors from Latin America, the Caribbean, and coastal Spain tantalize at this lively restaurant. Try the mofongo (plantain mash) or the two-person paella with rotating toppings only served on Fridays and Saturdays. Reservations accepted. 2245 Kearney St., Suite 101, 720-814-1053. Dinner

MACHETE TEQUILA & TACOS

Cherry Creek / Mexican Enjoy tequilas and tacos al pastor at this Cherry Creek eatery. Also try the Union Station location. Reservations accepted. 2817 E. Third Ave., 303-333-1567. Lunch, Dinner

$

MAINE SHACK

$$$

LoHi / Seafood This fast-casual spot slings lobster rolls, fried clams, chowder, and more. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 1535 Central St., 303-997-2118. Lunch, Dinner

MAJOR TOM

$$$$

RiNo / American This lounge from the team behind Beckon offers a Champagne-centric drink menu and a delectable lineup of shareable bites. Enjoy larger-format plates at a table inside, or throw back some oysters on the beautiful patio. Reservations accepted. 2845 Larimer St., 303848-9777. Dinner

MAKFAM

$$

Baker / Chinese The Chinese food at this streetfood-inspired, fast-casual eatery eschews tradition for a whole lot more fun. Try the jian bing (scallion pancake) sandwiches, available on both the regular and weekend brunch menus. Reservations not accepted. 39 W. First Ave. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

MARIGOLD

$$$$

Lyons / European This small, light-filled restaurant serves seasonally driven French- and Italianinfluenced fare. The pink-peppercorn-laced farinata (chickpea pancake) is a delicious mainstay of the frequently changing menu, and the amarofocused cocktail program is also delightful. Reservations accepted. 405 Main St., Suite B, Lyons, 303-823-2333. Dinner

MIZU IZAKAYA

$$

LoHi / Sushi This contemporary Japanese restaurant offers an impressive bar and a hip atmosphere. Order items from the binchotan (charcoal grill) or the raw bar, or give appetizers like the cream pork kimchi a try. Reservations accepted. 1560 Boulder St., 720-372-7100. Lunch, Dinner

MOLOTOV KITSCHEN & COCKTAILS

$$$$

City Park / Eastern European The ever-changing menu at this aptly kitschy restaurant from chef Bo Porytko celebrates the cuisine of Ukraine. Try creative takes on borscht and Eastern European dumplings. Reservations accepted. 3333 E. Colfax Ave., 303-316-3333. Dinner

MY BROTHER’S BAR

LoHi / Pub Enjoy beers and burgers with classical music in one of Denver’s oldest bars. Order the JCB burger with jalapeño cream cheese. Reservations not accepted. 2376 15th St., 303-455-9991. Lunch, Dinner

NI TUYO

$

$$$

Belcaro / Mexican Visit this Bonnie Brae eatery for bubbly molcajetes, piping-hot stone bowls of Mexican meats and veggies stewed in chile sauce. Or grab a seat at the bar for a tasty margarita with an order of chips and salsa. Reservations not accepted. 730 S. University Blvd., 303-282-8896. Dinner

NOBLE RIOT

$$$

RiNo / American Find charcuterie boards, fried chicken, and other bites at this sommelier-operated natural wine bar. Reservations accepted. 1336 27th St., 303-993-5330. Dinner

NOISETTE RESTAURANT & BAKERY

$$$$ LoHi / French Chefs Tim and Lillian Lu serve elegant renditions of bourgeoisie-style specialties (French home-cooked comforts) in a romantic, light-drenched space. Tear into the perfectly crisp baguette to set the Parisian scene for your dining experience. Reservations accepted. 3254 Navajo St., Suite 100, 720-769-8103. Dinner, Brunch

NOLA VOODOO TAVERN AND PERKS

Clayton / Southern New Orleans native and owner Henry Batiste serves his grandmother’s recipes for gumbo, po’ boys, and much more at this Louisiana-inspired spot. Reservations accepted. 3321 Bruce Randolph Ave., 720-3899544. Lunch, Dinner

$$

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2024

6:00 – 8:30 p.m.

SHERATON DENVER DOWNTOWN

Join us for a very special DSF Homecoming Gala on Friday, November 1, 2024, to honor the accomplishments of Denver Public Schools (DPS) high school students, Denver Scholarship Foundation (DSF) Scholars, and Alumni, and thank the partners and supporters who help make DSF’s work possible!

Learn more, invest in a sponsorship, or purchase tickets!

Scan the code or visit denverscholarship.org/gala.

RECEPTION | DINNER & PROGRAM 8:30 – 10:30 p.m.

DON’T MISS THE 2ND

OCEAN PRIME

LoDo / Seafood A marriage between land and sea, this supper club offers steak house dining and fresh fish in one. Reservations accepted. 1465 Larimer St., 303-825-3663. Dinner

ODIE B’S

$$$$

OTOTO

$

Sunnyside / American Sandwiches reach their prime at this fast-casual restaurant. Try twists on classics like the fried chicken sandwich with deviled egg spread and the mixed bag of fries, which combines four different shapes of fried spuds. Reservations not accepted. 2651 W. 38th Ave., 303-993-8078. Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch

OFFICERS CLUB

$$$

Lowry Field / American Try American staples like cheddar biscuits, French dips, and bacon burgers at this spot inspired by the Lowry Air Force Base. Reservations accepted. 84 Rampart Way, 303284-0714. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

OHANA ISLAND KITCHEN

LoHi / Seafood This Hawaiian-inspired eatery serves top-notch tuna poke, Spam musubi, and more. Reservations not accepted. 2563 15th St., 303-718-6580. Lunch, Dinner

OSAKA RAMEN

$$$

Platt Park / Japanese From the team behind Sushi Den and Izakaya Den, this sleek eatery breaks away from its Den Corner counterparts by focusing on more casual Japanese eats. Try the yellowtail collar grilled over white oak charcoal. Reservations accepted. 1501 S. Pearl St., 303-9421416. Dinner, Brunch

PHO DUY

Westwood / Vietnamese Slurp down delicious bowls of noodle soup at this popular Vietnamese mainstay. Reservations not accepted. 925 S. Federal Blvd., 303-937-1609. Lunch, Dinner

PHOENICIAN KABOB

$

creativity. Try the al pastor sandwich. Reservations not accepted. 1510 Humboldt St., 303-8617333. Lunch, Dinner

POTAGER

$$$

Capitol Hill / Contemporary Since 1997, this rustic Capitol Hill restaurant has specialized in fresh, seasonally driven food. The menu replete with small- and large-format plates changes once a month. Reservations accepted. 1109 N. Ogden St., 303-246-7073. Dinner

QUIERO AREPAS

$$$

South Park Hill / Mediterranean This quiet restaurant serves a solid menu of Middle Eastern and Lebanese fare. Reservations accepted. 5709 E. Colfax Ave., 720-477-0046. Lunch, Dinner

POINT EASY

$

$$

RiNo / Japanese Jeff Osaka’s modern ramen shop features original noodle soups, bento boxes, and creative small plates. Try the mochi doughnuts. Reservations not accepted. 2611 Walnut St., 303955-7938. Lunch, Dinner

$

Platt Park / Latin American The entirely glutenfree menu at this Platt Park eatery offers delicious selections like the pollo guisado arepa, a flatbread that comes stuffed with shredded chicken, black beans, and cheese. Also check out the LoHi location. Reservations not accepted. 1859 S. Pearl St., 720-432-4205. Lunch, Dinner

$$$$

Whittier / Contemporary This stylish, inviting farm-to-table eatery produces feasts made with thoughtfully sourced ingredients, many of which are grown locally. Pair the calamari- and tomatostudded bucatini nero with a specialty cocktail. Reservations accepted. 2000 E. 28th Ave., 303233-5656. Dinner

THE PORCHETTA HOUSE

City Park West / Italian The porchetta at this lunch-to-late-night eatery is an expression of both Italian tradition and globally minded

RAS KASSA’S

Lafayette / Ethiopian Find shareable Ethiopian cuisine in a comfortable environment. Order a meat or vegetarian combo plate and a glass of honey wine. Reservations not accepted. 802 S. Public Road, Lafayette, 303-447-2919. Dinner

REDEEMER PIZZA

$

$$$

$$$

RiNo / Pizza Spencer White and Alex Figura, the duo behind Dio Mio, bring perfectly blistered, New York City–style sourdough pizza to RiNo. Reservations accepted. 2705 Larimer St., 720780-1379. Dinner

We know you love .

Ì

RESTAURANT OLIVIA

$$$$

Washington Park / Italian This cozy yet modern neighborhood spot specializes in fresh pastas of all varities. The ravioli and other stuffed pastas are must-orders, and a specialty Negroni doesn’t hurt either. Reservations accepted. 290 S. Downing St., 303-999-0395. Dinner

RIOJA

$$$$

LoDo / Mediterranean James Beard Award–winning chef Jennifer Jasinski creates high-end Mediterranean-influenced cuisine at this eatery. Also try her lunchtime takeout pop-up, Flavor Dojo, which offers health-forward bowls. Reservations accepted. 1431 Larimer St., 303-820-2282. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

ROAMING BUFFALO BAR-B-QUE

Rosedale / Barbecue House-smoked Colorado craft barbecue is the specialty at this laid-back spot. Innovative meats like bison back ribs and pulled Colorado lamb are available by the pound. Reservations not accepted. 2387 S. Downing St., 303-722-2226. Lunch, Dinner

ROS SIAM

$$

$$

Jefferson Park / Thai This restaurant sits inside an inviting Jefferson Park house (complete with an inviting patio) and serves up exciting Thai dishes. Reservations accepted. 2637 W. 26th Ave., 303953-0291. Lunch, Dinner

SAP SUA

$$$

Congress Park / Vietnamese This smart eatery from husband-and-wife duo Ni and Anna Nguyen finds its culinary footing in Vietnamese flavors. Herbaceous offerings like culantrocapped tomato toast and lemongrass-scented pork shoulder are favorites of the menu. Reservations accepted. 2550 E. Colfax Ave., 303-736-2303. Dinner

SHI MIAO DAO YUNNAN RICE NOODLE

$$ Aurora / Asian This build-your-own rice noodle soup restaurant specializes in crossing-the-bridge noodles from China’s Yunnan province and delicious boba. Reservations not accepted. 2000 S. Havana St., Aurora, 720-583-2839. Lunch, Dinner

SHIN YUU IZAKAYA

$$

Louisville / Japanese Sushi, ramen, and yakitori (charcoal-grilled meat skewers) pair nicely with Japanese whisky and shochu at this casual eatery. Reservations not accepted. 917 Front St., Suite 100, Louisville, 303-661-3009. Lunch, Dinner

SONNY’S MEDITERRANEAN

$$ Highland / Mediterranean The herbaceous falafel and house-roasted chicken at this casual Mediterranean joint are top-notch. Try either in a pita sandwich stuffed with french fries and feta. Reservations not accepted. 2622 W. 32nd Ave., 720479-8813. Lunch, Dinner

SPUNTINO

$$$$ Highland / Italian Enjoy the eclectic and locally sourced menu at this Italian-inspired, husbandand-wife-owned spot. Go for any of the dishes with Southern Indian influences—a product of chef Cindhura Reddy’s heritage—like malai kofta gnocchi. Don’t miss the house-made gelatos for dessert. Reservations accepted. 2639 W. 32nd Ave., 303-433-0949. Dinner

STONE CELLAR BISTRO

Arvada / Contemporary Visit this farm-to-table spot in Olde Town Arvada for beautifully presented dishes made with local produce by chefs Jordan Alley and Brandon Kerr. Don’t miss the foie gras parfait or the hot honey fried chicken. Reservations accepted. 7605 Grandview Ave., Arvada, 720-630-7908. Dinner

SUNDAY VINYL

$$$

TAVERNETTA

$$$

LoDo / European This Union Station restaurant offers warm hospitality, exquisite cuisine, and an extensive wine list, all to the soundtrack of a vinylonly playlist. Order the caviar-topped hash brown patty and something from the indulgent selection of sweet treats. Reservations accepted. 1803 16th Street Mall, 720-738-1803. Dinner

SUSHI SASA

$$$$

LoDo / Italian The team behind Boulder’s acclaimed Frasca Food and Wine offers the same attention to hospitality at this more casual Denver restaurant. The charming space is home to dishes from across Italy and a deep wine list. Reservations accepted. 1889 16th St., 720-605-1889. Lunch, Dinner

TEALEE’S TEAHOUSE AND BOOKSTORE

Five Points / International Head to this charming teahouse-bookstore-market for loose-leaf and specialty teas and all-day fare like soups, salads, sandwiches, and freshly baked pastries. Reservations accepted. 611 22nd St., 303-593-2013. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

TRAVELING MERCIES

$$$

LoHi / Japanese Enjoy Japanese fusion cuisine— including sushi combos, poke bowls, noodles, and much more—in a sleek, modern setting. Don’t miss the seared wagyu beef with cucumbers, foie gras, and sesame tamari. Reservations accepted. 2401 15th St., Suite 80, 303-433-7272. Lunch, Dinner

TAMAYO

TUPELO HONEY SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR

$$$

LoDo / Southern Nosh on reimagined versions of down-home dishes, such as honey-dusted fried chicken. Reservations accepted. 1650 Wewatta St., 720-274-0650. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

URBAN VILLAGE GRILL

$$

$$$

Lone Tree / Indian This eatery serves classic and contemporary dishes from regions across India. Order the chef’s tasting menu. Reservations accepted. 8505 Park Meadows Center Drive, Suite 2184A, Lone Tree, 720-536-8565. Lunch, Dinner

US THAI CAFE

$$$

Aurora / Seafood Annette’s Caroline Glover expands her offerings in Aurora’s Stanley Marketplace with this petite yet airy oyster and cocktail bar. Any meal here deserves an order of the anchovy and baguette with French churned butter. Reservations accepted. 2501 Dallas St., Suite 311, Aurora. Dinner

TU’S KITCHEN

$$$

LoDo / Mexican This spot’s modern menu is derived from the flavors and ingredients of chefowner Richard Sandoval’s native Mexico. Check out the rooftop lounge and the selection of more than 100 tequilas. Reservations accepted. 1400 Larimer St., 720-946-1433. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

$

Edgewater / Thai Fresh ingredients, spicy dishes, and a chef straight from Thailand make for an authentic, if mouth-tingling, dining experience. Reservations accepted. 5228 W. 25th Ave., Edgewater, 303-233-3345. Lunch, Dinner

VINH XUONG BAKERY

$$

Broomfield / Vietnamese Thuy Le, former owner of Boulder’s Chez Thuy, delivers flavor-packed Vietnamese cuisine at her new restaurant. Try seafood specialties like the basil-topped snails served on a sizzling cast-iron plate. Reservations accepted. 6500 W. 120th Ave., Broomfield, 303975-6001. Lunch, Dinner

$$

Washington Park / Vietnamese This family-owned bakery has roots in Denver that stretch back more than 25 years. They serve up delicious banh mi sandwiches and other tasty Vietnamese treats. Reservations not accepted. 2370 Alameda Ave., 303-922-0999. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

VOGHERA APERICENA

$$$

Berkeley / Italian Enjoy Italian-style tapas such as beef tartare, Burrata, and pancetta-wrapped scallops at this rustic-chic Berkeley outpost. Reservations not accepted. 3963 Tennyson St., 303-455-9111. Dinner, Brunch

bites. sips. fun.

OCTOBER 20, 2024 | 6-9 PM

Celebrate the 2024 5280 Best Restaurant list at our annual culinary extravaganza featuring delicious menus from this year’s winners!

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS

SCAN HERE TO GET YOUR TICKETS NOW!

WATERCOURSE FOODS

$$

Uptown / American This vegetarian icon has been serving wholesome food since 1998. The zesty soups, salads, and wraps are healthy and delicious. Reservations accepted. 837 E. 17th Ave., 303-8327313. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

WEATHERVANE CAFE

City Park West / American Enjoy a small but sumptuous menu of breakfast items, sandwiches, and salads at this cozy Uptown cafe. Reservations not accepted. 1725 E. 17th Ave. Breakfast, Lunch

WELLNESS SUSHI

$

THE WOLF’S TAILOR

$$$$

Sunnyside / Contemporary This Michelin-starred restaurant from chef-restaurateur Kelly Whitaker transforms local ingredients into a globally minded, prix fixe tasting menu. Don’t get too full before pastry chef Emily Thompson’s dessert course. Reservations accepted. 4058 Tejon St., 720-456-6705. Dinner

WYNKOOP BREWING COMPANY

$$

Congress Park / Japanese Vegan sushi stars at this fast-casual joint by husband-and-wife duo Steven and Phoebe Lee. Don’t miss hot options like the soupless ramen. Reservations not accepted. 2504 E. Colfax Ave., 720-306-4989. Lunch, Dinner

WEST SALOON & KITCHEN

Downtown / American This modern eatery in a historic space downtown serves food and drink inspired by the American West. Reservations accepted. 501 16th St. Mall, 303-825-3690. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

WHITTIER CAFE

$$

LoDo / Pub Enjoy freshly brewed beer and feast on pub favorites such as the bison burger or the fish and chips at one of Denver’s original brewpubs. Reservations accepted. 1634 18th St., 303297-2700. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

XICAMITI LA TAQUERÍA

$$$

$

Whittier / Cafe This espresso bar, which supports social-justice-related causes, serves coffee, beer, and wine sourced from various African nations and a small menu of pastries, breakfast burritos, panini, and more. Reservations not accepted. 1710 E. 25th Ave., 720-550-7440. Breakfast, Lunch

Golden / Mexican This long-standing joint serves cooked-to-order burritos, tacos, quesadillas, and alambres (skillet dishes). Reservations not accepted. 715 Washington Ave., Golden, 303-2153436. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

YACHT CLUB

Cole / American Enjoy classic and creative cocktails at this loungelike bar alongside an array of snacks. Reservations not accepted. 3701 N. Williams St., 720-443-1135. Dinner

YAHYA’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL & PASTRIES

$$

YUAN WONTON

$$

North Park Hill / Asian House-made dumplings earn top billing at this ambitious eatery from chef Penelope Wong. Head in on Fridays for a dimsum-themed lunch that showcases the best of Wong’s hand-folded delicacies. Reservations accepted. 2878 Fairfax St., 303-320-5642. Lunch

ZEPPELIN STATION

RiNo / International This industrial-chic food hall in RiNo is home to seven globally inspired food and drink vendors, including Procession Coffee, Purisma, and Gyros King. 3501 Wazee St. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

ZOCALITO LATIN BISTRO

$$

$$$

Downtown / Mexican Formerly located in Aspen, chef/owner Michael Beary’s upscale Oaxacan eatery found a home in the heart of Denver. Try the pork tenderloin. Reservations accepted. 999 18th St., Suite 107, 720-923-5965. Dinner

ZORBA’S

$

$$

City Park West / Mediterranean This family-run restaurant serves silky hummus, grilled kebabs, and from-scratch sweets. Reservations accepted. 2207 E. Colfax Ave., 720-532-8746. Lunch, Dinner

$$

Congress Park / Greek Zorba’s has served American and Greek fare—salads, sandwiches, and breakfast dishes—in Congress Park since 1979. Reservations not accepted. 2626 E. 12th Ave., 303-321-0091. Breakfast, Dinner, Lunch

 These listings are in no way related to advertising in 5280. If you find that a restaurant differs significantly from the information in its listing or your favorite restaurant is missing from the Dining Guide, please let us know. Write us at 5280 Publishing, Inc., 1675 Larimer St., Suite 675, Denver, CO 80202 or dining@5280.com.

going to beat her. But a Republican like Jeff? I think the 3rd District will rally around him.”

National prognosticators had written Frisch off by midsummer. The Cook Political Report showed the district leaning Republican, and an election model from the Hill gave Hurd an 83 percent chance of victory. What’s more, Colorado’s congressional redistricting in 2021 gave Republicans an even greater advantage in the 3rd. That Frisch was expected to beat Boebert this year spoke to just how lousy of a candidate she’d become.

But Hurd is no Boebert, and Frisch’s path to victory is steeper than it was a year ago. Still, Democrats have hope. “With the down payment Adam made last time, he’s not starting over,” Carroll, the former state party leader, says. “I think the district is more open to the idea of a Democrat. But he has to pivot.”

While Frisch has built a broad coalition, even some supporters know it might not be enough. Bruce Noble, an unaffiliated voter from Grand Junction who retired from the National Park Service in 2019, notes that he’s seen more yard signs for Hurd than for Frisch in Mesa County. “I wish I was a little more confident. My fear is that Hurd is a more difficult challenger,” Noble says. “I could see Frisch pulling it off, but am I convinced that will happen? I’m not. But I didn’t expect him to run as well as he did in 2022, so hopefully he has some surprises up his sleeve this year, too.”

As primary night winds down, Frisch is still giving phone interviews. Then he’s in front of cameras. Then he’s hunched over a laptop editing a press release. When asked about Hurd’s victory, he’s cordial. “I think there’s some mutual respect between us. Some things we share in common,” he says. “There are some differences, and we’re ready to have those conversations.” The press release he sends out an hour later strikes a different tone. “The last thing our district needs is another corporate lawyer funded by corporate PAC money. My presumptive opponent won’t have the backbone to stand up to Washington interests.”

And there’s the pivot Carroll talks about. Frisch never got his rematch with Boebert, who is coasting toward an easy victory in Colorado’s 4th Congressional District. Instead, he got an opponent in Hurd who

Give the gift of local culture.

Packed with dining reviews and recommendations, adventure how-tos, deep dives into the state’s long-lost stories, and more—5280 is the perfect gift for the Denverite in your life.

12 ISSUES FOR $ 14 . Scan to start sending gifts!

looks much less like a caricature of a MAGA politician and much more like him. If Frisch has one clear advantage, it’s his war chest. After setting fundraising records in 2022, in June his campaign reported nearly $14 million in donations this cycle—more than any congressional candidate in the country other than New York Democratic Representative Hakeem Jeffries. Hurd, by contrast, had raised less than a tenth of Frisch’s haul by the last reporting deadline.

Frisch understands all of the arithmetic. He knows most pundits doubt, despite his prodigious fundraising, that he has a chance. He also knows that Boebert leaving the race hurt him. “From a pure mathematical standpoint, would I rather be running against someone who was probably down by five or seven points in December? Heck, yeah,” he says. But Frisch also knows nobody gave him a real chance in 2022, either. “There weren’t enough humble pies made at Costco to serve everybody,” he says. “So, we’ll take the skepticism. We’ll take people who want to doubt us again.”

AMERICAN POLITICAL CAMPAIGNS are marathons, not sprints. That is, for most candidates. In the five weeks following Colorado’s primary day, former President Trump survived an assassination attempt and President Biden dropped his re-election bid. Frisch’s profile rose over those weeks, too. When he released a video and wrote an op-ed for the Washington Post asking Biden to clear the way for a new candidate—he was one of the first Democrats with a national profile to do so—he landed himself on MSNBC and Fox News.

Regardless of November’s result, Frisch will long be remembered as the savvy politician who chased Boebert from the Western Slope. But there’s another side of him, as well. “There’s me, the father, the husband, and the small-business guy living here,” he says. “And then there’s this person, Adam, running for Congress. They’re kind of the same person, but I kind of look at it like it’s two different things.”

That compartmentalization helps him stay calm amid a hectic campaign and focus on what’s really important—and it also means he’ll still have a life regardless of November’s result. “I’m blessed to have a great family. I want to instill values and work ethic in my children,” Frisch says. “Besides that, I mostly just think about how I can spend more time following Bob Dylan around on tour.” m

SCENE CALENDAR

MORE THAN PINK Walk

Civic Center Park | 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.

Unite in the fight against breast cancer. Together, we’ll raise crucial funds to help those impacted by breast cancer when they need it most. Register, fundraise and witness the difference we can make together. Ending breast cancer needs all of us. Sign up for free today!

Information and tickets at komen.org/coloradowalk.

The 47th Denver Film Festival

Sie FilmCenter, AMC 9+CO 10, Ellie Caulkins Opera House, Denver Botanic Gardens, Denver Museum of Nature and Science

The Largest Festival in the Region is Back! The 47th Denver Film Festival will present the best in cinema from around the world, and it will be your chance to see premiering films before anyone else in Denver.

Details and more information at denverfilm.org/dff47. OCT 12

18-19

Museum of Outdoor Arts Marjorie Park Uncorked: Movie Nights

Marjorie Park | Doors at 5:00pm, Movie: after dusk at about 6:30

FREE Halloween-themed movie nights at Marjorie Park featuring The Rocky Horror Picture Show (Adult Night: 10/18) and The Witches (1990) (Family Movie Night: 10/19). Free admission with registration. Enjoy yard games and concessions. Upgrade with a VIP fireside table for six or add a 3-tab concession wristband good for food and drinks. Details and more information at moaonline.org/movienights.

Daughter of the Regiment

Ellie Caulkins Opera House November 9, 12, 15, 17

Opera Colorado opens its season with the romantic comedy Daughter of the Regiment This lively production offers a perfect blend of humor and heart, making it a must-see for opera lovers and newcomers alike. Experience love, laughter, and vocal fireworks!

Details and more information at bit.ly/OperaDaughter.

OCT 20

5280 Dines

The Brighton, A NPU Venue 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.

Celebrate Denver area culinary stars at our annual can’t-miss foodie extravaganza featuring mouthwatering menus from the 2024 5280 Best Restaurant winners, event bars serving delicious boozy + NA sips, and more. Tickets are going fast, get yours today!

Information and tickets at 5280scene.com/5280-dines.

The Denver Athletic Club

A Club for Every Athlete

Located in the heart of downtown Denver, The Denver Athletic Club features 125,000 square feet of athletic facilities. Whether you are a runner, swimmer, skier, racquet sports enthusiast, triathlete, yogi or X-Fit fanatic — take your training to the next level at The DAC.

Home to the best squash program in Colorado, members also access:

• 7 international Squash courts

• 6 racquetball courts

• 20,000 square feet of cardiovascular and weight training equipment

• Full size basketball, volleyball, pickeball courts

• 100 free group exercise classes per week

• 25-meter, 8 lane indoor swimming pool

• Boxing room

• Indoor Golf Simulator

• Massage therapy — same-day appointments

• X-Fit Studio

…all in one club!

Open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE DAC

Opening Day At A-Basin

The snow won’t be deep, but the vibes will. With the Summit County resort likely to once again host the first day of the season in Colorado, we asked Zach Ryan, a Frisco local who’s skied nine straight opening days at Arapahoe Basin, for tips on how Front Rangers can best observe our holiest of holidays. —MAREN HORJUS

Keep an eye on the weather. A-Basin doesn’t typically announce its opening date, but with its snowmaking machines and high, high elevation (more than 10,700 feet at the base), the hill should have enough white stuff after three consecutive subfreezing nights in Dillon.

Unless it nukes snow before opening day, skiers will be confined to High Noon, a long, cruisey blue square that, this time of year, often rides like an icy “ribbon of death,”

Ryan says. Make sure your edges are sharp and, because it’ll be crowded,

“be respectful of your fellow skiers,” he says.

Set an alarm: If you want some of the first turns, Ryan says you should arrive at the ski area before 7 a.m. to snag a parking space in the High Noon lot. But if you need your beauty rest, there’s no shame, according to Ryan, in “rolling in at 11 a.m., when the first cars start clearing out.”

“Waiting in line in the cold is part of the experience,” Ryan says. Pack a bunch of layers, including a puffy, a neck warmer, an oversize hat, and maybe even rave attire—local radio DJs flock to the base and fire up tunes all morning long.

Take care of the employees. Patrollers, lifties, parking attendants—“they work so hard to get the lift open on short notice,” Ryan says. He’ll make breakfast sandwiches for them in the lift line, but “some candy, an extra coffee, a gift card—that goes a long way.”

Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.