5280 Magazine October 2021

HOW A MEGADROUGHT IS HURTING COLORADO FARMERS PAGE 82

EVERYTHING YOU EVER NEEDED TO KNOW ABOUT HOUSEPLANTS

BY ANGELA UFHEIL

INSIDE THE GREAT GEOTAGGING CONTROVERSY PAGE 40

THE DENVER MAGAZINE

45 DISHES TO EAT RIGHT NOW! From Savory Tacos To Perfect Pizzas To Comforting Stews, These Are The Denver Meals You Just Can’t Miss. PAGE 62

OCTOBER 2021 |

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FEATURES 62

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The Best 45 Dishes To Eat Right Now!

Higher Gear Colorado is home to thousands of acres of the world’s most epic terrain—and to cutting-edge inventors, ski bums, and pro athletes who are making some of the best gadgets, gizmos, toys, and tools to help you explore it.

We spent months brunching, lunching, and indulging in elaborate multicourse dinner feasts to bring you this guide to the most delectable meals in the Mile High City.

BY KIM HABICHT

BY PATRICIA KAOWTHUMRONG

66

Scam Risk In the first half of 2020, Coloradans reported $15.5 million in losses to consumer scams—up from $11.3 million in all of 2015. As our lives become more digitized, scammers are finding new ways to steal our money.

So how can you protect yourself? We explain.

BY LINDSEY B. KING

74

It’s Grow Time Last year, homebound Denverites bought a houseplant (or eight) to inject some green into their quarantine— even though many of us can’t seem to keep anything with roots alive. Luckily, Colorado experts have a bouquet of wisdom to share.

BY ANGELA UFHEIL

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The Insidious Voice Of Depression With anxiety and depression on the rise during the COVID-19 pandemic, people who’ve never experienced mental health issues are enduring some of the emotions one 5280 editor feels almost every day of his life.

BY GEOFF VAN DYKE

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OCTOBER 2021

Losing Paradise Southwestern Colorado’s Mancos Valley has long been resistant to the ravages of climate change. But along with acres of crops, the blissful notion of relative immunity perished in 2021.

BY JONATHAN THOMPSON

Jacky Parker Photography/Getty Images

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O C T O B E R 2021

DEPTS.

B E H I N D T H E S T O R I ES 12

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D I N I N G G U I D E 88

COMPASS 15 CULTURE

24

Inside the installation artist Eriko Tsogo and her family created for Meow Wolf’s new Denver location.

18 EDUCATION

So long, mystery meat: Denver Public Schools will become one of the first districts in the country to make all of its meals from scratch.

EAT & DRINK

20 WILD THINGS

29

22 TECHNOLOGY

Boulder company ColdQuanta is leading the next computing revolution.

A veggie-forward menu at Ash’Kara’s new outpost channels flavors from the Middle East.

30 DESSERT

Splurge on Poulette Bakeshop’s five-layer gâteau macaron.

24 MUSIC

32 CRAFT BREWING

Nikki Swarn, general manager of rap and R&B station 104.7 The Drop, highlights three artists defining Denver’s hip-hop scene.

Despite discrimination and harassment in the beer industry, Colorado women have made the state’s suds scene a powerhouse.

BY SARAH KUTA

26 TRAVEL

Our weekend itineraries through Colorado’s wine regions savor the dregs of harvest season.

COLUMNS 40 OUTDOORS

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30

Anti-geotagging champions say they’re trying to protect fragile ecosystems. Critics say they’re playing a game of keep-away.

BY NICHOLAS HUNT

48 FIRST PERSON

Slowing down to enjoy life’s final act from a house by the side of the road in rural Grand County.

ON THE COVER

Photography by Joni Schrantz

BY MARTIN J. SMITH

Clockwise from top left: So Radish’s fried cauliflower tacos; Joy Hill’s margherita pizza; seafood from Jax Fish House and Oyster Bar; Work & Class’ cabrito; yakitori from Uncle

BACKSTORY 132 SICK THRILLS

Scare actors face a nightmarish range of workplace hazards.

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Clockwise from top left: Ian Warren; Getty Images (boom box); Sean Parsons (graphics); Sarah Banks; Kristen Curette & Daemaine Hines/Stocksy; Sarah Banks

29 WHAT’S HOT

How Denver anglers helped rehabilitate the reputation of one of America’s most scorned game fish.

THE LAND WAS MADE FOR THIS “We just allowed the natural canvas to do most of the work.”

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BEHIND THE STORIES SPOTLIGHT

FROM THE EDITOR

Happy Meals

LINDSEY B. KING Email: lindsey@5280.com Twitter: @linzbking

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OCTOBER 2021

Tavernetta’s fall pappardelle

Nikki Swarn

General manager & program director, 104.7 The Drop Swarn, also a DJ for Rocky Mountain Public Media’s rap and R&B station, curated the local artists profiled in “Waxing Lyrical” (page 24).

WHY TUNE IN TO THE DROP:

”I hope the people hear love.

There is a special connection with our audience.”

THE HARDEST PART OF HER JOB:

”The challenge is that I wear a bunch of hats. As a jock, I want more time with the people, to ask questions about their musical experiences and what more they want from us.”

ON THE RETURN OF LIVE MUSIC:

“We missed that ethereal connection during COVID-19. Music is such an important connector.”

ON 5280.COM 

Mile-High Halloween October 31—you know, the only day of the year we used to wear masks—is about to jump out at you from around a dark corner. This month, visit 5280.com to find the creepiest haunted houses and corn mazes in the Denver metro area, horror-movie-inspired cocktails, and more spooky ways to make up for 2020’s lost screams.

Clockwise from top left: Sarah Banks; Courtesy of Anthony Smith; Getty Images; Joni Schrantz

I had almost forgotten the enchantment of dining out at a sit-down, lean-back restaurant. It had been more than 16 months; plenty of time to shoulder-shrug away the little delights of eating out as frivolous, considering the miasma of global pestilence. But the romance of it all wooed me the moment I sat down. There was a paper menu with a quirky font. A candle flickered in a glass bowl.

A server with hipster-chic glasses presented me with a cocktail that was almost too pretty to drink. My dinner date, an old friend, looked at me and very simply said, “This is really nice.”

It was nice. But it was also a reminder of what we’ve lost and the tenuous position in which we still find ourselves. Across the state, more than 4,000 restaurant industry jobs have disappeared since the start of the pandemic, and according to the Colorado Restaurant Association, more than 25 percent of local eating and drinking establishments are in danger of closing in the next six months. With that in mind, food editor Patricia Kaowthumrong made a savvy call. She decided that, for the second year in a row, 5280 would not publish “Denver’s Best Restaurants,” our normally annual list of the city’s top 25 eateries. Not only did she believe it would be unfair to critique restaurants during these tumultuous times, but she also wanted to bring attention to a larger slice of the dining scene. “By focusing on the amazing dishes restaurants are serving,” Kaowthumrong says, “we were able to highlight 45 places that are delivering everything from tasty bites on a stick to perfectly al dente noodles.”

As I savored my drink at that dinner this past summer, I realized those small pleasures are not inconsequential. They are valuable gifts, because they epitomize how this critical industry serves Coloradans: by providing memorable and flavorful cultural experiences. With a vaccine in your arm, I suggest you use “The Best 45 Dishes To Eat Right Now!” (page 62) to help you remember the joy of dining out in Denver.

Where Lakefront Living Meets Farm-Fresh Cuisine

Living and eating well are at the root of everyday life at Lakehouse. That’s why our entire lakefront community is designed around an organic Urban Farm. Create your own seasonally inspired dish from freshly harvested produce or enjoy a delicious meal prepared by our chef partner in the indoor-outdoor collaborative kitchen.

Coming to Lakehouse Summer 2022 Two new dining establishments from award-winning restaurant ChoLon

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CULTURE EDUCATION WILD THINGS TECHNOLOGY MUSIC TRAVEL 

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CoMPASS

Eriko Tsogo as her alter ego, Bounce Back Qween

All In The Family Meet the artists bringing Mongolian culture to Meow Wolf.

P H O T O G R A P H Y BY S A R A H B A N K S

Eriko Tsogo often tells the story of her father’s art career in Mongolia. Tsogtsaikhan “Tsogo” Mijid’s enthusiasm for experimental, expressionist painting clashed with the communist regime’s preference for realism, resulting in his frequent censorship. So it delights Eriko that 22 years after immigrating to the Mile High City, her father, mother, and sister all joined her under the moniker Betart Collective to build a space inside Convergence Station, Meow Wolf’s new installation in Denver. More than 300 artists created 72 exhibits that form a cohesive narrative about a cosmic merging of worlds. No work captures that union quite like the family’s contribution, called “Mongovoo Temple”—a multisensory room that draws from Mongolia’s cultural, religious, and political histories. One of the few cross-generational teams with work in Convergence Station, the group is unpacking a shared memory of home. “‘Mongovoo’ transcends personal ego,” Eriko says of the room, which is lined with 200 elaborate white fiberglass masks. “It’s not just a Betart Collective project— it’s a Mongolian project.” We journeyed through the wormhole to see the exhibit through the family’s eyes.

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CULTURE CONTINUED

Tsogtsaikhan “Tsogo” Mijid: “I studied Tsam mask making in Mongolia. They’re part of a traditional Buddhist dance ceremony, where lamas [monks] wear them and perform choreography and meditative chanting. There are 108 different Tsams that each embody a Buddhist god.

Making them was complicated, because the country was communist then. [Editor’s note: The Soviet Union backed the Mongolian People’s Republic when it first gained power in the 1920s, and Joseph Stalin ordered all Buddhist institutions be disbanded.] We had to visit a lama in secret.”

Blending ancient traditions and new media:

Eriko Tsogo: “Tsam masks are usually ornate, with painting and varnish, and then they’re decorated with things like yak hair. We kept the masks white so they reflect the light. My younger sister, AnuJen, designed the lighting and soundscapes.”

AnuJen “Jennifer” Tsogo: “I mixed together sounds that were reminiscent of the Mongolian countryside. You can hear streams and the roar of wildfires. I layered that with Mongolian throat singing.

We wanted to make it feel like traveling through time to an ancient ritual.”

Why you must enter “Mongovoo Temple” via a snake-filled doorway:

Batkhishig “Baja” Batochir (Eriko and Jennifer’s mother): “In Mongolia, snakes represent mystery and intelligence. You have to have bravery and curiosity to pass through the snake door and enter ‘Mongovoo’— even though they’re made of velour and stuffed with wool.”

Eriko: “My mother studied drama in college, and now she sews puppets for the Mongolian Culture and Heritage Center of Colorado, which my family started in 2003 to nurture Mongolian performing and fine art.

Because of her experience with sewing, she was in charge of the room’s textiles.”

On adhering to fire codes: Eriko: “Tsam masks are often made out of papier-mâché or kaolin clay. But we made the masks in ‘Mongovoo’ from fiberglass approved by the fire department. We painstakingly pressed it into the molds in our basement over the course of three or four months. You can see the tiny handmade flaws in each one, but that’s what makes them original.”

The challenges and rewards of working within a family of artists:

Jennifer: “Creatives always have their visions. Everyone just had a lot of ideas. So, finding a common ground was challenging in the beginning.”

Eriko: “This is the biggest collaboration we’ve ever done as a family. But everyone had a role to play, and everyone respected one another’s points of view. I’m really proud that we did this together.” —ANGELA UFHEIL

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HISTORY MADE MYSTERY Pieces of Denver lore appear throughout Meow Wolf’s new location.

Four imaginary worlds collide in Convergence Station—but real-life pieces of the Centennial State can be found among the artistically rendered result, thanks to the 110-plus contributing Colorado creatives.

“Meow Wolf wants to reflect the environment it’s in,” says Annie Geimer, the collective’s Denver artists liaison. Working with locals puts community influence on display: “The state is very present in the final product,” Geimer says.

But only if you look closely.

Meow Wolf’s team, loath to show too much of its paint-speckled hand, hasn’t publicized every reference, but the ones we do know about will appeal to longtime Coloradans. Take, for example, the work of Andrew Novick, an ephemera collector. He collaborated with metal artist Pamela Webb and illustrator Robert Ayala to re-create six iconic signs from now-defunct local businesses, such as the Celebrity Sports Center in Glendale. Another piece, “Melting of the Mines” by Denver’s Kia Neill, uses photographs of mineral excavation sites from around the state.

The exhibit even pays homage to one of Denver’s most impactful protests: A vintage RTD bus bursts through a wall, a tribute to the Gang of 19, disability rights activists who blocked RTD bus routes in 1978 to demand public transportation be made more accessible. And, of course, signage on the bus’ front indicates that it’s on the Sun Valley route—a nod to the neighborhood Convergence Station will call home long into the future. —AU

Kennedy Cottrell/Courtesy of Meow Wolf

The sacred meaning behind the masks:

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EDUCATION

GRADE “A” GRUB

So long, mystery meat: Denver Public Schools (DPS) recently unveiled plans to become one of the first districts in the country to make all of its meals from scratch. With the help of Brigaid, a Connecticutbased company, DPS will ramp up its homemade lunch program over the next three years. Here’s how. —ETHAN PAN

60%

Percentage of DPS meals prepared from scratch before the partnership, which aims to raise the number to 99 percent. One highlight of the existing menu is a cost-effective bread program. The popularity of its chewy whole wheat baguettes led DPS to apply a homemade approach to its entire menu: “There’s a smell that brings kids in,” says Theresa Hafner, executive director of DPS’ food and nutrition team.

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Restaurant industry chefs Brigaid will hire to oversee DPS’ 166 kitchens. It’ll be their job to teach basic skills, like proper knife techniques and kitchen organization, to the district’s existing staff. They’ll also lead creative changes, such as spicing meals up with herbs to boost flavor without adding sodium. But like any good teacher, Brigaid will be judged by how well its protégés— DPS employees—perform, especially after the three-year contract is complete.

% 75 ~

Percentage of DPS pupils who identify as students of color, which is why the district already serves globally inspired cuisine, such as carnitas tacos and banh mi sandwiches, as well as a hot vegetarian selection every day.

Meals DPS serves daily

31,600 45,000 9,100 BREAKFASTS

LUNCHES

2/3

$3 18 5 2 8 0

Average cost of a full-price lunch in DPS’ school meal program. Brigaid’s price tag will total $3.7 million, but DPS is determined to not pass that expense on to students. Instead, the district plans to cover the outlay through nonprofit and city grants.

OCTOBER 2021

Portion of DPS’ 90,000-plus students who qualify for free or reduced-price lunches.

According to a 2014 study of U.S. lunch programs, these kids rely more heavily on school meals to combat food insecurity, and access to nutritious food has been shown to positively impact cognitive development.

Ali Harper/Stocksy (lunch tray); Getty Images (burger, bread, child with lunch, money)

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WILD THINGS

What do we really know about carp? Ask your average angler, and nearly 200 years of collective cultural disdain for the grayish-brown, wideeyed, slow-moving bottom feeders might color his answer. But if you’re Barry Reynolds, a Denver-based fly-fishing guide and author, when you see carp, you see cunning opponents unfairly maligned by notoriously snobby fly anglers.

“In the early 1990s, when I was doing fly-fishing seminars around the country, I started to introduce a little bit about fishing for carp,” Reynolds says, “and I’ll be honest with you, people would walk out.” Nearly three decades later, carp’s reputation among fly anglers has changed.

Far from being smeared as dumb, ugly bread eaters, they’re now considered to be intelligent fish known for putting up fierce fights. There are Instagram hashtags, Facebook groups, and even glowing write-ups in the likes of Field & Stream devoted to fishing for them—and Reynolds and a Denver carp tournament have played central roles in that rebranding.

For his part, Reynolds quite literally wrote the book on the pastime. Published in 1997, Carp On The Fly outlines the techniques Reynolds developed in the early 1980s as he and his friends explored the urban portion of the South Platte River; it’s a standard for anglers looking to target the often misunderstood fish. Slowly, the South Platte became a mecca for carp fishing as more and more local casters realized that instead of driving an hour or more to battle the crowds on one of Colorado’s famous trout streams, they could be tussling with river monsters averaging eight pounds just 15 minutes from their front doors. (For comparison, landing a six-pound rainbow would be the catch of a lifetime for many trout hunters.)

Then, to help show off his hometown river, Reynolds—sometimes called the Carpfather— served as a consultant for the Denver chapter of Trout Unlimited, a national conservation organization, as it launched the inaugural Carp Slam fly-fishing competition in 2006. The contest pairs amateur anglers with professional guides to compete for some serious prizes, including pricey fly rods, Colorado-made reels, and $1,000 for the largest carp caught by a nonprofessional.

Anglers compete in “The current Slam is probably the biggest carp-on-the-fly tournament in the United the Carp Slam on the States in terms of fundraising,” says Patrick Mapes, founder of the fishing blog Urban South Platte River.

How Denver anglers helped rehabilitate the reputation of one of America’s most scorned game fish.

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lar the urban South Platte becomes, the harder the carp are to catch. And Reynolds?

Well, he’s never won the competition he helped inspire.

“I think I’ve come in second seven times,” he says, “and I had a few years where I didn’t catch anything at all.”

–NICHOLAS HUNT

Russ Schnitzer (2)

Schooled By Fish

Anglers USA, a pro competitor, and general manager of this year’s 15th anniversary event, which takes place on October 23. “We have people come from across the entire country to participate.”

To enter, contestants raise donations from friends, family, and other anglers, which Trout Unlimited then gives to various restoration projects along the South Platte, from water temperature monitoring stations to research efforts looking for strategies to keep trash out of the waterway. With more than $20,000 raised in 2020 alone, the competition has become an important part of the coalition of nonprofits, municipal governments, and federal agencies that have transformed this section of river—once described as an open-air sewer—into a fishery worthy of its own chapter in New York Times contributor Chris Santella’s book Fifty More Places To Fly Fish Before You Die. In a way, the tournament and Reynolds have been too successful. The more popu-

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Although still in their infancy, quantum computers are already big business, with IBM, Microsoft, Google, and state actors like China cumulatively investing billions to develop the superfast number crunchers. But ColdQuanta, a relatively tiny Boulder firm, may beat them all to a major milestone later this year: releasing a 100-qubit quantum computer. That would be a big step toward quantum advantage (QA), the point at which these machines will be able to compute in seconds certain kinds of useful problems that would take traditional supercomputers thousands of years to solve. How? Where your laptop must try each possible solution in turn to find the answer, quantum computers can test solutions simultaneously. To do this, they swap bits for qubits made of atoms or subatomic particles chilled to just above absolute zero, where the laws of physics get freaky. While a bit can only be a one or a zero, heads or tails, qubits can be both heads and tails at once.

ColdQuanta’s advantage lies in how it chills those atoms. Unlike many of its competitors, who use bulky liquid helium refrigeration, ColdQuanta uses lasers and traps them in a sleek glass prism (pictured). The technique is so effective, says Paul Lipman, ColdQuanta’s president of quantum computing, that it may only take a few more years to reach the hundreds­—or even thousands—of qubits necessary to achieve QA. Once it’s realized, QA could accelerate scientific discovery, from modeling new cancer drugs on a molecular level to mapping the state of the universe seconds after the Big Bang. —NH

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Courtesy of ColdQuanta

A Boulder company is leading the next tech revolution.

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Our Deep Roots

MUSIC HEAVY ROTATION

Get hip (and local) by adding these emerging artists’ bangers to your playlists ASAP.

KAYLA RAE

“Tell Me”

KHALIL/AFROCONNEXION

Waxing Lyrical

“Partyin & Drinkin”

Hip-hop highbrows often knock Denver for lacking a distinctive sound. But Nikki Swarn, general manager of 104.7 The Drop—a rap and R&B station that has been streaming online as part of Rocky Mountain Public Media since 2019—hears the scene differently. “Mile High City rap and R&B is unique for its vulnerability and openness and commitment to cause and community,” she says. Swarn tuned us in to these three local artists, whose principles, lyrics, and lived experiences are all their own. —PHILIP CLAPHAM A STIGMA-FREE ZONE Aurora native Jay Triiiple moved back to Denver from Illinois when she was 15. Now 30, the unabashedly Black and gay emcee delivers sharp lyrics full of irony and self-assurance. “She’s fearless,” Swarn says. Who’s Triiiple?, her 2017 EP, laid bare the artist’s personal struggle with depression. Her latest project, an Instagram-first video series called I Rap Better Than Your Boyfriend (@irapbetterthanyourboyfriend), offers icy braggadocio fused with mantras like, “Instead of running, I’m understanding my feelings. Let it flow on out my pen and express when I’m done healing.” Listen: soundcloud. com/jaytriiiple

POETIC (FOOD) JUSTICE An artist, educator, and vegan chef with roots in Five Points, DJ Cavem has shared the stage with hip-hop royalty like Stic.Man of Dead Prez and even landed the ultimate gig: an invitation from then First Lady Michelle Obama to rhyme, reason, and season at the White House in 2015. Swarn loves BIOMIMICZ, DJ Cavem’s 2019 full-length album, which (still) comes with a starter pack of kale, arugula, and beet seeds as well as recipes to prepare them. “He views access to healthy foods as a struggle for justice,” Swarn says, “and sustainable cultivation as a way of honoring the land and paying homage to our ancestral [agrarian] roots.” Listen: chefietef.com

Above, clockwise from top: Nikki Swarn, DJ Cavem, Jay Triiiple, and Jae Wes

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SOUL MEETS CLASSICAL Crooner Jae Wes is a Denver School of the Arts graduate with a love for classical cello—but not the orchestra. So, after majoring in music performance at Holland College on Prince Edward Island in Canada, Wes returned home to make music that blends classical strings and contemporary R&B. After institutional bias largely excluded Black artists and traditions from classical music for centuries, Swarn says, “[Wes] is dismantling that ideology brick by brick.” His 2020 single “ACO” (slang for Aurora, Colorado) and 2021’s “Coastin” are odes to summer with Frank Ocean–esque harmonies.

Listen: music.apple.com

The high-octane Caribbean beat of “Partyin & Drinkin” will send you looking for that margarita mix in the back of your pantry.

XIUHTEZCATL

“Take It All Back” This Boulder-based Indigenous artist’s newest single is an anti-colonial anthem, rhyming for the return of lands stolen from Native peoples.

MIZTA SANDMAN

“Concrete Rose” His O.G. status is solidified by 14 years of songwriting. So who better to school us on perseverance, as Sandman does on this 2021 single?

From top: Sean Parsons (Source images: Courtesy of Anthony Smith [Nikki Swarn], Courtesy of DJ Cavem [DJ Cavem], Courtesy of Vvonskiii [Jay Triiiple], Courtesy of Chris Opher [Jae Wes], Getty Images [boombox]); Courtesy of Chermetra Keys; Courtesy of Brothamahmoud; Courtesy of Josue Rivas; Courtesy of Rich Aguila

Hip-hop has a reputation for often being homophobic and misogynistic. This rapper-singer’s latest album, 2021’s Tell Me, upends that trope by delivering sexy-yet-empowering musings on its eponymous track.

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GRAND VALLEY AMERICAN VITICULTURAL AREA (AVA) Nearly 85 percent of Colorado’s grapes come from this growing region near Grand Junction known for its hot, dry climate.

FRIDAY 4 p.m. Hospitality interns from Colorado Mesa University hone their be-our-guest energy at Grand Junction’s Hotel Maverick. thehotelmaverick.com 6 p.m. Sneak over to Moody’s for wagyu steak in a speakeasystyle lounge. moodyslounge.com SATURDAY

12 p.m. Savor the Barbera and

Sémillon wines at Restoration Vineyards, named for the owner’s Mercedes-Benz refurbishing hobby (spot 14 on the property). restorationvineyards.com 3:30 p.m. At Plum Creek Cellars,

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Restoration Vineyards

a nine-foot-tall metal sculpture lovingly dubbed “Chardonnay Chicken” gets a giggle out of visitors even before they start sipping the off-dry Palisade Festival white blend. plumcreekwinery.com SUNDAY

9:30 a.m. Rent a board from GJ SUP for a float at the new Riverfront at Las Colonias Park, which hosts a dog park, a concert venue, trails, and more. gjsup.com 12 p.m. Devil’s Kitchen, on Hotel Maverick’s patio, serves beet salad with hops-infused vinaigrette and a side of Colorado National Monument vistas. devilskitchenrestaurant.com

WEST ELKS AVA AND THE NORTH FORK VALLEY Delta County’s cool climate produces dainty white grapes for dry Rieslings and Gewürztraminers.

FRIDAY 5 p.m. The chefs at Flying Fork

celebrate the bounty of their agricultural surrounds by blanketing handmade pasta with local produce. flyingforkcafe.com 7:30 p.m. Rocking chairs on the front porch of the 115-yearold Bross Hotel Bed & Breakfast might just be the comfiest spots to relax after a day of wine tasting— though the on-site hot tub offers stiff competition. paonia-inn.com

SATURDAY 1 p.m. Owner Dave Aschwanden explains his Old World fermentation techniques during prearranged personal tastings at Chill Switch Wines in Cedaredge. chillswitchwine.wordpress.com 3:30 p.m. Stone Cottage Cellars’ sweet Alpine Dessert Wine pairs divinely with the raspberry pistachio cheesecake the winery sources from Paonia’s Coquelicot Pastries. stonecottagecellars.com SUNDAY

11:30 a.m. Sample lemon-

chive chèvre and a goat cheese Manchego at Western Culture Farmstead. Don’t leave without giving the goats a thank-you pat. westernculturefarmstead.com

ROCKY MOUNTAIN REGION Artisans, spread over several counties west of Rocky Mountain National Park, harness high elevation to turn imported grapes into complex blends.

FRIDAY 3 p.m. Salida’s Manhattan Hotel’s self-service model expedites check-in so you can get to watching kayakers on the Arkansas River from your balcony. manhattanhotelsalida.com 5 p.m. We dig the cheesy jokes on Moonlight Pizza & Brewpub’s menu (“Make Mom happy, add

some veggies”) as much as the scratch-made dough that cradles the toppings. moonlightpizza.biz SATURDAY 10 a.m. Hike among rock spires in the newest member of Colorado’s club of national monuments, Browns Canyon. blm.gov 5 p.m. At Vino Salida Wine Cellars, order mead made with local honey and settle in for live blues or rock. vinosalida.com SUNDAY

9 a.m. Zip through Four Mile

Recreation Area’s hilly deserts and lush woods on a side-by-side from Rocky Mountain Adventure Rentals. rmar1.com 3 p.m. The thin air at Continental Divide Winery’s Fairplay production facility (elevation: 10,361 feet) slows fermentation, highlighting each grape variety’s floral notes. breckwinery.com

Visit 5280.com for more wine country itineraries.

Clockwise from top: Courtesy of Kathleen Favier; Courtesy of Moonlight Pizza & Brewpub; Courtesy of Hotel Maverick

Visitors pour into Colorado’s various wine-making regions each September for grape stomping and other harvest festivities—so we suggest waiting until October, when dwindling crowd sizes give vino makers more time to spill their stories (and an extra splash in your glass).

Use our weekend itineraries to savor the dregs of the season.

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DESSERT CRAFT BREWING 

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Shared Plates

At Ash’Kara’s new outpost, chef-owner Daniel Asher’s menu both sparks memories and helps diners make new ones.

At Ash’Kara in Boulder, executive chef and co-owner Daniel Asher regularly watches patrons recognize their grandmothers’ cooking in his dishes. “There are folks from the Middle East here every night with stories to share about family recipes,” says Asher, who opened the original Ash’Kara in LoHi in 2018 and debuted this second location in April. The nostalgia-inducing specialties served at both spots—wood-roasted carrots with pearlescent labneh, silky hummus, earthy baba ghanoush— are inspired by Asher’s travels in Israel and the blending of cultures across countries of the eastern Mediterranean and North Africa. At the convivial Pearl Street restaurant, which offers a mostly vegetarian lineup, those influences are best tasted in the mushroom tagine. The madefor-sharing beauty features multiple varieties of locally grown fungi stewed in a conical clay pot with velvety potatoes and yams, sweet figs and apricots, and harissa-spiced tomato broth. Sop up the rich, acidic sauce with a piping-hot pita alongside your chosen family.

—JORDAN CUTLER-TIETJEN

Clockwise from top left: Ash’Kara’s bar; the Soon You Will cocktail; patrons in the dining room; chicken shawarma; mushroom tagine; labneh

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DESSERT

TOP TIER

Why Poulette Bakeshop’s five-layer gâteau macaron is a stellar spend.

A suburban Colorado strip mall may be a bit of a departure from the bustling cafes of Paris or San Francisco, just two of the cities in which pastry power couple Carolyn Nugent and Alen Ramos have perfected their sweets at renowned bakeries and Michelin-starred restaurants over the past 15 years. But craving more stability for themselves and their five-year-old son, they moved from Chicago to Denver, where Ramos’ family lives, in 2020. After a successful stint selling treats out of their townhouse kitchen window via their Ulster Street Pastry pop-up, Nugent and Ramos moved their operation into a brick-and-mortar in Parker this September. While fans line up for Poulette Bakeshop’s fritters, doughnuts, and sticky buns, it’s the lavish patisserie-style treats—like this five-tiered gâteau macaron—that get our blood sugar pumping. Here, we break down the making of the cake, a seasonally changing, special-order stunner that costs $160 to $200 (depending on composition) and takes Nugent and Ramos 48 hours to make. —ALLYSON REEDY After the macaron slabs set for 24 to 36 hours, Nugent and Ramos make a fresh fruit gelée to coat each tier. The jelly can be infused with any flavor profile, from caramel to curd, but this autumnal iteration features pears spiced with nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, and vanilla.

Each layer also gets a blanket of fluffy vanilla cream topped with poached pear, blackberries, and toasted candied almonds. “Everything is soft—the macaron is chewy, the vanilla cream, the gelée—so it’s nice to have something to add a little bit of crunch,” Nugent says.

The top macaron layer is dressed up with decorative fall flowers from Parker’s Mainstreet Flower Market.

The chocolate coils are essentially giant macaron cookies: beautiful, bubble-free discs of homemade dark chocolate ganache hand-piped into tight, circular spirals.

“I spent three weeks piping coils, six hours a day,” Ramos says of perfecting his macaron-making skills at Pierre Hermé in Paris.

Once it’s all assembled, they pipe dark chocolate ganache around the circumference and tuck in more blackberries along the sides.

P H O T O G R A P H BY S A R A H B A N K S

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Hold My Beer

On a warm Friday afternoon in midAugust, beer drinkers begin trickling into Lady Justice Brewing Company’s small, light-filled taproom on East Colfax Avenue in Aurora. On their way to the bar, they’re greeted by a lifesize cardboard cutout of the late Ruth Bader Ginsburg, clad in her black U.S. Supreme Court robe and white lace collar—and a tie-dyed, flat-billed hat bearing the Lady Justice logo. Behind her, colorful “Summer of Queer” T-shirts hang on a wall. As 1980s pop rock plays overhead, customers sip their Sandra Day IPAs next to a floor-to-ceiling mural of Ginsburg, Black gay rights activist Marsha P. Johnson, and Latina labor leader Dolores Huerta.

The piece, painted by Denver artist Chelsea Lewinski, is a symbol of the work being done at Lady Justice. “People love it,” says Betsy Lay, who co-founded the brewery in 2014 with friends and fellow AmeriCorps volunteers Kate Power and Jen Cuesta but is the sole owner today. “It signals to people, ‘Hey, we love trailblazing women.’ We want people to know that women are doing a lot to pave roads and make ways for the rest of us to keep going.”

From left: Lady Justice It’s easy to feel optimistic about a more inclusive future for craft brewing founders Kate Power, Jen Cuesta, and Betsy Lay after visiting Lady Justice, a queer- and female-owned brewery that donates

This past spring’s reckoning over discrimination and harassment in the craft brewing industry brought newfound attention to females working in the scene—but Colorado women want you to know they’ve been here since the very beginning. BY SARAH KUTA

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space, time, and profits to Colorado organizations empowering women and girls. And yet, less than six months ago, Lady Justice hosted a meeting attended by about 100 people to discuss the stories of assault, sexism, and racism in the American beer industry that bubbled up on Instagram and made national headlines in May 2021.

The event is a reminder that Colorado is far from an equitable utopia; like their counterparts across the country, women who work in brewing here have experienced discrimination and harassment. Some worry, however, that the prevailing narrative of craft brewing as a bearded, flannel-wearing boys’ club can obscure the contributions females have made—and continue to make—to the Centennial State’s status as a craft brewing powerhouse, says Shawnee Adelson, executive director of the Colorado Brewers Guild. “We, as women in the industry, feel like it’s important for everybody to be treated fairly and equally, and it’s good that people are having these hard conversations and that [these incidents] are being brought to light,” Adelson says. “We need to broaden our expectations of where women fit into this industry.

But it’s also important to celebrate the women who are already here.”

WHETHER THEY KNOW IT or not, women in craft brewing are following in the female footsteps of thousands who came (way) before them.

For much of human history,

P H O T O G R A P H BY S A R A H B A N K S

OCTOBER 2021

Mural by Chelsea Lewinski (@chelsealewinski)

CRAFT BREWING

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BRECKENRIDGE DISTILLERY’S IMMERSIVE WHISKEY EXPERIENCE IT’S ALL ABOUT QUALIT Y AND A REWARDING GUEST EXPERIENCE. BRECKENRIDGE DISTILLERY WAS FOUNDED

BY A DOCTOR-TURNED-DISTILLER WITH AN OVERWHELMING OBSESSION FOR WHISKEY. It was never Bryan Nolt’s plan to create one of the fastest growing craft distilleries in the country, but as it turns out, his whiskey and the guest experience exploded, and for good reason. This year, Breckenridge Distillery was ranked as one of 2021’s top Visitor Attraction of the Year by Whisky Magazine and claimed their fourth Colorado Whiskey Distillery of the Year win at the New York Int’l Spirits Competition.

As their portfolio of awards and recognitions grow, Breckenridge Distillery continues to elevate its guest experience. They recently added The Founders Lab, an immersive whiskey experience that takes guests on a journey through the senses.

The interactive spirits lab allows guests to not only taste award-winning spirits, but the opportunity to

delve behind the scenes of spirit production.

“Our philosophy is to offer our guests a positive and rewarding experience during their visit, and to us, that's just as important as the products we make,” says Bryan Nolt, Breckenridge Distillery Founder and CEO. In the Founders Lab, guests nerd out with Breckenridge Distillery’s distillers and become a master blender for a few magical hours. Their distillers are experts in nosing, flavor categorization and pairing substrates together to create a whole that far exceeds the expected sum of its parts.

Guests will be taught to break down aggregate flavors while building a whiskey blend complete with mouth feel and finish. To top off the experience, guests get to hand bottle their creation and add a customized label.

“The Breckenridge Distillery singled-handedly

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elevated (no pun intended) the craft-makers scene in Breckenridge when the distillery opened in 2008,” says Austyn Dineen with Breckenridge Tourism Office. “Like a fine bourbon, when they reimagined themselves and added an awardwinning restaurant to their resume in 2016, they transformed the creative-culinary product that Breckenridge is known for today. The new Founder’s Lab is just the cherry on top of an incredible immersive adventure that guests can have on the slopes, on the trail and behind the beaker in Breckenridge year-round.”

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Kim Jordan, co-founder of New Belgium Brewing

women—not men—have been associated with beer-making. Researchers have traced the drink’s origins back more than 5,000 years to ancient Mesopotamia (what is now Iraq and Syria), where women were the first brewers. That’s likely because they were responsible for grinding grain to make bread and, eventually, beer.

During the Industrial Revolution in the mid-19th century, however, men rose to the forefront of the beer industry in America (and elsewhere) when homebrewing alone wasn’t enough to satisfy demand.

Large manufacturing facilities, like the one founded by Adolph Coors in Golden in the 1870s, effectively shut women out of the world of beer. “Men were more involved in the brewing process because of the industrialization of beer,” says Travis Rupp, a self-described beer archaeologist and lecturer at the University of Colorado Boulder. “Once it became something that was produced on a mass scale, the general presumption was that it required more physical activity, and men then became more dominant in the field.”

Two of the earliest craft suds pioneers to prove that notion wrong were Corkie and Wynne Odell, who co-founded Fort Collins’ Odell Brewing Company in 1989 with Doug Odell (Corkie’s brother and Wynne’s husband). The pair served in various influential and highly visible roles: Wynne managed the brewery’s finances, Corkie helped in the brewhouse and took charge of human resources, and the duo

Courtesy of New Belgium Brewing

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From left: Corkie, Doug, and Wynne Odell, founders of Odell Brewing Company.

shared the title of CEO for many years, a fact they say set the tone for diversity and inclusion at the company. “We have recognized over the arc of our 32 years that having two women in leadership positions at the brewery created a more welcoming environment right from the start,” Wynne says. “Corkie and I weren’t going to put up with bullshit if we heard about it.”

When the Odell women established their business, they were in good, albeit sparse, company. In the early 1990s, women helped launch several Colorado breweries, using their expertise in everything from finance and operations to marketing, sensory science, and beermaking to grow them into beloved brands you likely know today: Kim Jordan at New Belgium Brewing in Fort Collins, Amanda Bristol at Colorado Springs’ Bristol Brewing Company, Tara Dunn at Great Divide Brewing Company in Denver. (Dunn also co-founded the Colorado Brewers Guild in 1995.) While the list may seem small, so too was the industry as a whole. In 1993, there were fewer than 450 craft breweries in the United States.

Get started today. msudenver.edu/hospitality

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msudenver.edu/hospitality

Courtesy of Odell Brewing Company

TODAY, BECAUSE OF SOCIETAL SHIFTS,

social media pressure, increasing competition (the United States now has nearly 9,000 craft breweries), or all of the above, the industry is attempting to expand the definition of who makes and drinks craft beer—and that involves trying to bring more women and people of color into the brewhouse. Despite scholarships for

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CRAFT BREWING brewing courses (funded by breweries, trade groups, and other national organizations) for underrepresented communities; internship and mentorship programs; and awareness-raising by nonprofits like the Pink Boots Society (which has five chapters in Colorado), progress has been slow.

In 2015, women made up 29.1 percent of people who reported drinking craft beer at least several times a year, according our to national poll data analyzed DiningFind Guide, by the Brewers Association, an extensive list of area a U.S. trade group based restaurants, on in Boulder. In 2018, that page 88 number had increased by and online at 5280.com/ about two percentage points. restaurants.

Meanwhile, the Brewers Association only first began tracking the demographics of craft beer employees and ownership in 2018, when it reported that 77.4 percent of brewery owners in the United States were men and 22.6 percent were women, and just two percent of breweries were owned entirely by women. (In comparison, only one percent of owners were Black.) When it comes to actually making the beer, the numbers were even more skewed: 7.5 percent of brewers and 8.9 percent of production managers were women.

Unsurprisingly, the pioneering females in Colorado’s scene aren’t resting on their lagers. With Holidaily Brewing Company in Golden, founder and CEO Karen Hertz has built the nation’s largest dedicated gluten-free brewery. Founder and head brewer Jess Fierro is diversifying the craft at Colorado Springs’ Atrevida Beer Company, where the majority of employees are Latina. Brewability Lab owner Tiffany Fixter provides jobs for individuals with developmental disabilities in Englewood. Queer-owned Goldspot Brewing Co. in northwest Denver and Lady Justice are determined to create welcoming spaces for LGBTQ communities. But women in the industry can’t do it alone, says Lady Justice’s Lay. She believes the path forward for the craft beer industry requires more inclusivity training, better human resources systems, greater accountability for suppliers that breweries work with, and men calling each other out for inappropriate behavior.

“We have many opportunities ahead of us to make some very good, real change that will only make craft beer better,” Lay says. “It’s the responsibility of all of us in the industry to just keep pressing on this.” m

OU T DOOR S

BY N I C H O L AS H U N T

Tag, You’re Not It he first sign it’s going to be crowded is the trailhead parking lot. Or, rather, it’s the overflow of Subarus, Jeeps, and roof-rack-sporting minivans lining the access road to the parking lot. Still, you think, maybe there’s a chance for solitude. After all, your friend’s geotagged Instagram posts, which inspired this particular outing, showed an empty trail snaking through ponderosa pines and a panoramic high-alpine vista without a soul in sight.

After a handful of miles and several hundred feet of elevation gain, however, you’ve exchanged more polite hellos with strangers than you would with your office mates on a pre-pandemic Monday morning. As you leave the treeline behind for the final push to the summit, your hope for a quiet communion with the outdoors fades for good: There’s a queue to take carefully cropped summit selfies. It’s only when you’re back in cell service, scrolling through potential photos for your own feed, that you realize the old adage is true: Even in the wilderness, you’re not in traffic. You are traffic.

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It’s an increasingly common scene across the Mountain West. Since at least 2015, people have been pointing to social media and geotagged photos, which include the name or geographic coordinates of where an image was taken, as a major driver behind the exploding popularity of our public lands. You may not recognize the name Horseshoe Bend, for example, but chances are you’ve seen pictures of this rose-hued switchback of the Colorado River just upstream of Grand Canyon National Park posted by #vanlife influencers or your road-tripping friends. These days, the Arizona landmark sees some two million tourists each year, but not long ago it was a locals’ spot with annual visitors numbering in the low thousands.

During an interview with ABC’s Nightline, Michelle Kerns, deputy superintendent for Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, which oversees the site, attributed the increase in large part to Horseshoe Bend’s trendiness on Instagram.

Simply managing crowds like that would be enough to cause land managers headaches, but some also harbored

From left: Kristen Curette & Daemaine Hines/Stocksy; Getty Images (3)

T

Anti-geotagging champions believe their campaigns can help protect fragile ecosystems.

Critics say they’re playing a game of keep-away with our most precious public lands, often at the expense of people of color and LGBTQ communities. Who is right?

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OU T DOOR S concerns about the type of visitors social media was attracting—many of whom, the theory went, might not be aware of Leave No Trace guidelines or wouldn’t be prepared for the conditions they’d face on the trail, leading to the degradation of fragile ecosystems and more search and rescue calls.

In the Roaring Fork Valley, the Aspen Chamber Resort Association (ACRA), which, among other obligations, operates four visitor information centers, was determined to do something about the issue after five people died attempting to summit 14,131-foot Capitol Peak in 2017. The following year, the ACRA created the Aspen Pledge, which asks visitors to recreate safely and responsibly by staying on known trails, being prepared for inclement weather, and, half-jokingly, not skiing in jeans.

Then, in 2019, to address overcrowding, the organization came up with a seemingly straightforward solution: If social media users didn’t include the name or location of where their photos were taken, other users wouldn’t know where to go and how to find the obscure spots. Instead, it encouraged visitors to use a generic geotag that simply read #TagResponsiblyTakeTheAspenPledge and asked locals to help get the word out.

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“The idea is not to hide something like the Maroon Bells,” says Eliza Voss, the ACRA’s vice president of destination marketing. “It’s to not tag a place that might be lesser-known because you don’t want to expose somewhere that doesn’t have the infrastructure to handle large groups.” As an added benefit, those who were determined to visit the backcountry locales populating their Instagram feeds would have to seek out more information first, and in the process hopefully learn a little more about how to get there safely and sustainably.

The ACRA’s campaigns were just one part of a national movement.

In June 2018, the Boulder-based Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics posted social media guidelines to augment the minimumimpact practices it champions for adventuring in the outdoors. Chief among them was asking users to “think about their actions and the potential consequences of posting pictures, GPS data, detailed maps, etc. to social media.”

In the months that followed, Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and Bend, Oregon, launched their own campaigns.

Reactions were published everywhere from Outside magazine to the New York Times, but one piece stood out from the rest with an eye-catching headline: “5 Reasons Why You Should Keep Geotagging.” Reason number one? “Gatekeeping Is Racist.”

“Most of the articles begin with a white writer reminiscing over a much-beloved hot

“You can’t just get on your soapbox and...tell them they should care about this thing they don’t have access to.” spring, a treasured swimming hole, or a rustic hiking trail from childhood that has now been ‘ruined’ by a sudden influx of selfie-taking hikers,” Danielle Williams wrote in the post, which was published in May 2019 on Melanin Basecamp, a blog and digital community she founded in 2016 to increase the visibility of people of color and LGBTQ folks in the outdoors. “They never stop to consider that their childhood was privileged with outdoor experiences not available to the majority of working-class families in the United States.”

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OU T DOOR S In Williams’ view, the anti-geotagging movement is blame-shifting. “Most people are starting from a good place, which is wanting to protect the outdoors,” she says, “but it should be protected from what instead of from whom. More often than not, it’s the latter. It’s people thinking in terms of which communities are inherently bad for the outdoors.” In other words, it is a dog whistle for excluding urban, often people of color and LGBTQ, visitors.

So instead of addressing issues like the underfunding of the Department of the Interior, which has led to $12 billion worth of delayed repairs at National Park Service sites across the country, Williams says people are focusing their energy on excluding groups that don’t embody their definition of outdoorsmanship. All of which is particularly ironic to Williams because conservation is Indigenous in origin, and the idea that the wilderness is pristine and untouched erases

thousands of years of Native American land use and stewardship.

“There was no appreciation for the fact that people need outdoor experiences to fall in love with the outdoors, and then to be brought into the fold of the conservation community,” she says. “You can’t just get on your soapbox and...tell them they should care about this thing they don’t have access to.” Because while many public lands are free, accessing them is not without cost in terms of transportation, time, equipment, and, especially, knowledge.

On top of that, there is evidence that the stereotype that those who use social media to find out about wild spaces are harmful to the outdoors is just that: a stereotype.

IN SUMMER 2018, THEODORA DOYON was a visitor-use assistant at Grand Teton National Park where she mostly collected fees at the Moose Entrance station just north of Jackson Hole. “I started to realize there were these narratives around social media visitors,” she says. “That they didn’t have the same level of understanding or appreciation of the outdoors as other groups.” That fall, she enrolled at Humboldt State University, on the rugged California coast about five hours north of San Francisco, to pursue a master’s degree in social science focused on the intersection of the environment and human communities.

Curious to find out whether any of those characterizations were true, she wrote her thesis on the topic.

Doyon surveyed visitors at California’s Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, home to some of the largest and oldest redwood trees in the state, about their social media habits and how they recreate and engage with wild spaces. She found, among other things, that social media was drawing new visitors to the park, indicating that it contributes to the crowding of our outdoor spaces.

But many of the stereotypes about those visitors—that they are inexperienced in operating safely in the outdoors, don’t care about protecting the environment, or aren’t as engaged with their surroundings—didn’t square with her findings. For example, those who used social media for outdoor recreation purposes reported being just as comfortable in the outdoors as their social-media-shy peers, and all visitors claimed to follow Leave No Trace principles at similar rates, regardless of their social media engagement. And far from being disengaged, visitors with high rates of social media use planned to participate in more activities in the park than low-use groups.

“I think there’s kind of this false narrative that people just see something online and say, ‘Oh, I’m going there,’ and then don’t Google

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OU T DOOR S the place,” says Doyon, now a partnership coordinator at the U.S. Forest Service in Golden. “Not having a geotag is not going to stop people from wanting to go there, and it’s not giving them the information they need [to do so responsibly].”

The ACRA and others who’ve implemented tag-responsibly campaigns, however, all say that education is one of their main goals. “I have seen [the criticism], and I think it goes to the fact that no good deed goes unpunished,” says the ACRA’s Voss. “Our stance was, we were not trying to be exclusionary, but that we were trying to create an atmosphere of sustainable tourism.” A key part of that is encouraging tourists to seek out more information, whether online or in person from a ranger or local.

That notion highlights a fundamental disconnect: How can someone ask about a place when they don’t know where it is or what it’s called? While a visitor center or a ranger might be willing to help track down a locale from an Instagram image, Doyon says that when she lived in Jackson Hole there was an unwritten rule among the locals that if a tourist asked about a secret spot, you should just say you’d never heard of it. That’s the power of geotagging, she says. It democratizes the spread of information.

Doyon’s study was small, with just one location and a little more than 500 respondents, and more research needs to be done. But there is anecdotal evidence that anti-geotagging campaigns are reducing backcountry accidents.

Grand Teton National Park’s Delta Lake, a high alpine body of water located below a shark-tooth-shaped mountain, is not accessible by an official trail, but that hasn’t stopped visitors from attempting the 4.1 miles and 2,349 feet of elevation gain it takes to get there. It’s a grueling hike, and search and rescue operations are common. “They don’t have exact numbers,” says Kate Sollitt, executive director of the Jackson Hole Travel and Tourism Board, “but I’ve had conversations with the park, and the following summer [after the board’s tag-responsibly campaign launched], they told me they had fewer incidents in that area.”

It’s all but impossible to establish cause and effect between the number of search and rescue calls and the number of people geotagging Delta Lake on their social media feeds, but the decrease in incidents is compelling, especially as the pandemic continues to cause an unprecedented surge in outdoor recreation.

According to the Boulder-based Outdoor Foundation, 8.1 million more Americans went hiking in 2020 than in 2019, and while White River National Forest’s designated 46

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campgrounds were already at capacity, the forest, which surrounds Aspen and contains the Maroon Bells and Capitol Peak, is seeing more dispersed camping, more cars at trailheads, more stand-up paddleboarders, more mountain bikers, more everything, according to Roger Poirier, a U.S. Forest Service recreation, heritage, and lands staff officer. Trails that aren’t designed for that kind of traffic can quickly experience negative impacts such as erosion, trail widening, and braiding. So although forest officials recognize the power social media has to connect people to nature, Poirier says they also encourage efforts like anti-geotagging to reduce environmental degradation.

Williams is all for protecting fragile spaces, but two years after her blog post called out anti-geotagging campaigns, she still believes there are better ways to do it, such as increasing funding, building the trails and infrastructure needed to handle the ever-growing crowds, and implementing reservation systems. “Do reservations disadvantage certain communities? I know they do,” she says. “But if the alternative is that only people who have the secret, special knowledge can come, let’s go for that option rather than the worst option.”

Another place to start is simply to have these difficult conversations and center them on marginalized communities, something the Leave No Trace Center is trying to do. In September 2020, a little more than two years after it released its first social media ethics guide, the organization published an update on its blog that started with these words: “Leave No Trace is not anti-geotagging.” Gone were any mentions of thinking before including location information with your photos. Instead, the new post re-emphasizes how to use your digital soapbox to educate your followers and promote sustainable recreation.

Dana Watts, the center’s executive director, doesn’t hesitate to say criticism played a role in the change. “We never work in a vacuum,” she says. “We always try to craft our messaging in a collaborative way, but that doesn’t mean it’s perfect. We’ll get a lot of comments and feedback. It’s not 100 percent positive, but it allows us to adjust and look at how we’ve said something or if we’ve missed something.”

For her part, Williams hasn’t really kept up with the debate, but she’s glad the conversation is still happening. “It’s not my job to win the internet for geotagging, so I’ve kind of said my piece,” she says. “But it’s great that people are talking about it, because we can do better.” m Nicholas Hunt is 5280’s senior associate editor.

Email feedback to letters@5280.com.

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F I R S T PE R S ON

BY M A R T I N J . SM I T H

The Home Stretch Slowing down to enjoy life’s final act from a house by the side of the road in rural Grand County.

A

venerable friend stops by one day to recommend a poem. He’s on his way to fish the Colorado River, which runs between our houses, but instead steers his old truck into our gravel driveway, apparently with a singular purpose.

His name is Walt. He once was a big-time Wall Street bond trader. He’s hard to reach now because he never answers his phone. “I spent too many years with one of those things stuck in my ear,” he says. I didn’t know him then. I just know him now, as the 84-year-old who hugs his wife goodbye each spring, motors away from his home in New Jersey and, for six months a year, lives alone in a Grand County hayfield.

During his annual Colorado idyll, Walt reads weighty and important books. (He’s just finishing up an 800-pluspage biography of Mao Zedong.) He listens to music. For exercise, he rides his bike five miles into town and rewards himself with breakfast. Some days he fishes. Then, when Rocky Mountain weather becomes less hospitable in November, he heads back to the East Coast. It’s been the same routine for decades.

When I tell people about Walt, the reaction is predictable and universal: Now there’s a guy who has it all figured out.

Which is why I’m always happy to see him turn into our driveway. He steps out and approaches the front porch where I sit. Sometimes I work there. More often than not, I don’t. On this bright and clear day, I’m just sitting and thinking, waving at occasional passers-by like a Walmart greeter. Anyway, Walt says my presence on our porch reminds him of a poem.

He can’t remember the writer’s name, but he remembers the title: “The House by the Side of the Road.”

“Look it up,” Walt says, and after he leaves, I do. It’s by the late Sam Walter Foss, and it begins like this: There are hermit souls that live withdrawn In the peace of their self-content; There are souls, like stars, that dwell apart, In a fellowless firmament; There are pioneer souls that blaze their paths Where highways never ran;— But let me live by the side of the road And be a friend to man.

It occurs to me at that moment how blessed I am, to have arrived at a time and place in life where a well-read friend feels free to stop by unannounced, just to recommend a poem.

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F I R S T PE R S ON LIKE MOST PEOPLE WE KNOW, my wife and I spent decades buried in the bittersweet mania of city life. Heads down, we ground through a triathlon of demanding professional lives, active kids, and the endless obligations demanded by both. I marvel that we managed two full careers (me as a writer and editor, she as a city manager) without ever being laid off or fired, raised two children who seem reasonably happy, and never had to deal with any serious health issues.

We are privileged, without question. And lucky. But we also made a lot of choices that led us to this particular front porch.

We’ve always lived simply and within our means. We drive our cars for a decade or more. We pay our credit card bills in full every month. Vacations? We took them but always waited until we had the money to pay for them. Turns out, living deliberately all those years eventually presented us with an amazing late-life opportunity.

I have always believed that our lives, like most good stories, unfold in three distinct acts. In the first act, we become who we are and set a course for the future. In the second act—the “murky middle,” I call it—our lives

become increasingly complicated. Conflicts arise. Drama ensues.

The third and final act—that’s the tough one, in both fiction and real life. We so want it to end well. If that final act seems illogical or deeply flawed, the resolution isn’t satisfying. No one wants to look back on their own story as being inconclusive or a regrettable waste of time. So, as we approached our 60th birthdays, my wife and I found ourselves with the chance to make a profound choice: What did we want our third act to be?

FOR YEARS, WE HAD INVESTED some of our earnings in a house my older sister built on a few acres just outside of Granby. She was an incomparably gracious soul, and she designed the kind of place that had the power to instantly melt the tension from our shoulders each time we rolled into the driveway, to make us forget the urban stress in our rearview mirror, and to make us say, “Aah.” My sister, a mother of six, spent 18 years there, mostly alone, creating a precious private place where she could live out her days exactly how she wanted. Between visits from her kids and grandkids, she’d sit on the porch, smoking and thinking and watching the world pass

by. I believe that she, like her friend and neighbor Walt, had it all figured out.

When my sister died at 72 in September 2015, we considered our options. Selling the place seemed wrong, and we never gave it serious thought. But keeping it meant moving from the teeming Southern California hardscape where we’d lived our hectic second act to a ranching town of around 2,000 people. It meant leaving behind the security of a satisfying job, longtime friends, and our grown children. It meant finding an off-ramp from our fast-lane lives and starting over, committing to an unfamiliar way of life a thousand miles from everything we’d known.

I had a role model. In 1938, writer E.B. White left a soaring Manhattan career and lit out for rural Maine. His collection of essays from that period, One Man’s Meat, reads for me like an escape fantasy, as it played out during White’s generation. Without that decision, he might have toiled the rest of his career among the skyscrapers of Manhattan, and the world might never have gotten the gift that is Charlotte’s Web. White may as well have been speaking for my wife and me when, during a 1942 interview, he said he moved to a distant farm “because

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F I R S T PE R S ON it was something we’d always wanted to do, and we could do…. A good many people in New York seem to think that going to live on a farm the year round, especially a farm so far away, is some sort of height of affectation.

They seem to think that you must be either washed up or very rich to do it. But we just wanted to do it.”

BY THE SPRING OF 2016, we were convinced the universe was sending us a clear sign, a

flashing arrow directing us to a clearly marked exit. We weren’t quite sure if I could find enough work to make it possible, or how exactly the accounting would play out, but we imagined a satisfying third act set amid Grand County’s ranches and accessible wildness.

Historian Robert C. Black III once called the county an “island in the Rockies,” and even in Granby, its largest city, that remains true today. Westward migration carried many homesteaders to the base of the mountains

that rise just beyond Denver, but they tended to move beyond Grand County and the Continental Divide like a stream flowing past a massive rock. It was just easier to go around than over.

As a result, this part of Colorado’s Middle Park is still relatively unpopulated. We’re currently watching a pandemic-driven land rush fueled by remote workers fleeing cities, and we’re warily noting the increasing number of ski-racked Teslas and Range Rovering Realtors cruising past our porch. But for now, we can still get fresh eggs from nearby ranchers and pay for them by leaving cash in an honor box. The woman who used to run the local post office always greeted us by name and seldom had to ask for our box number when we picked up a package. We’re tuned in to the natural world in ways we’ve never been before, and for the first time, we’re enjoying life on a human scale. Five years in, and we’ve downshifted into joyful slow motion.

Our choice to live by the side of the road may not work for everybody in this hyperwired, need-it-now world. There are undeniable pleasures to living in a place where you can get good Thai food whenever the mood strikes, or where getting yourself to an airport doesn’t involve serious logistical calculus. But this life suits us. Even as we consider the cost of a dinner out more than we once did. Even as we limit our travel to places where the dogs can come along. Even as we struggled to pay for health insurance until Medicare kicked in.

Regrets? Not one. Our third act, so far, has been the energizing revelation I’d hoped it would be. True, the world may be passing me by. I’m OK with that and find the distance and solitude a tonic. My role now, as I see it, is to wave and wish those travelers well. Or, as the final stanza of the Foss poem puts it: Let me live in my house by the side of the road Where the race of men go by— They are good, they are bad, they are weak, they are strong, Wise, foolish—so am I. Then why should I sit in the scorner’s seat Or hurl the cynic’s ban?

Let me live in my house by the side of the road And be a friend to man. m Martin J. Smith is the author of five novels and five nonfiction books, including Going to Trinidad: A Doctor, a Colorado Town, and Stories from an Unlikely Gender Crossroads. Email feedback to letters@5280.com.

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v

Denver Law School, Justin is a fierce negotiator. As a result of his passion for real estate, Justin has been honored year after year by the Denver Metro TOP 10 BROKER SINCE 2007 – DENVER METRO ASSOCIATION Association of Realtors with its coveted Excellence Award. Justin believes that OF REALTORS every home has a story to tell and uses his unique skill set as an Emmy award-winning television journalist to bring listings to life.

WALL STREET JOURNAL TOP 500 AGENTS NATIONALLY

C ERS

2

REALTOR PROFILES

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Stucy Group L I V S O T H E B Y ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y KARINA STEVENS, ELAINE STUCY, AND JOY NOWAKOWSKI We call ourselves Stucy Group because at one point, we were all Stucys. As a mother and daughter team, there’s nothing better than going to the office knowing that we’re part of a family business. As a family who lives, plays, and works in Douglas County, we understand the ins and outs of real estate throughout the south Denver metro area. Whether we’re working together or individually, we bring a high level of enthusiasm and competency to all of our real estate transactions. By working with us, you not only get the expertise of Stucy Group, but also receive the unparalleled knowledge that comes from our affiliation with LIV Sotheby’s International Realty. YOU are the most important person in the process; our goal is to make your transaction as smooth as possible. Welcome to the family!

413 Wilcox Street, Ste. 100, Castle Rock, CO 80104 | 720-881-5718 STUCYGROUP.COM

New New Perspective Team Team Perspective CO S ERAEL AELS TAT E S TAT CO MM PAPA S SS R E E C CO OM M PA PAS SS SR RE EA A LL E ES STAT TAT E E

JODY DONLEY, KIMHUDGINS KOUBA, MELINDA ASHLEYHOWLETT HOWLETT, KIM KOUBA | LAURA | TIFFANYHOWLETT, BURKE | MELINDA JODY KIM KOUBA, MELINDA ASHLEY JODY DONLEY, DONLEY, KIM KOUBA, MELINDA HOWLETT, ASHLEY HOWLETT, TIFFANY BURKE, MEGAN DAVIS, LAURA HUDGINS, MARCYHOWLETT, DANELLE MORGAN | MARCY EASTMAN | HOWLETT, ASHLEY HOWLETT TIFFANY BURKE, MEGAN DAVIS, LAURA HUDGINS, MARCY TIFFANY BURKE, MEGAN DAVIS, LAURA HUDGINS, MARCY EASTMAN, DANELLE MORGAN, AND DIANNA MAY MEGAN DAVIS | DIANNA MAY EASTMAN, DANELLE MORGAN, AND MAY EASTMAN, DANELLE MORGAN, AND DIANNA DIANNA MAY NOT PICTURED: FOUNDING MEMBER JODY DONLEY

Always coming from the perspective of lifelong real estate advisors, we are Always from the of real advisors, are Always coming from the perspective perspective of lifelong lifelong real estate estate advisors, we are here tocoming guide you in this changing market regardless of your short orwe long guide you this regardless of short or here here to guide youain inteam this changing changing market regardless of your your short or long long termto path.

We’re of agents market committed to caring for our clients with term We’re aa team of committed to for term path. path.

We’re teamyet of agents agents committed to caring caring for our our clients clients with solid analysis, gracious persistent negotiating, and innovative andwith solid persistent negotiating, and and solid analysis, analysis, gracious gracious yet persistent negotiating, and innovative and common-sense problemyet solving.

We’re empowered by innovative the financial and tech common-sense problem We’re empowered by and common-sense problem solving.

We’reof empowered by the the financial financial and tech tech tools of Compass, but it’ssolving. the decades deep relationships with clients and tools of but it’s the deep relationships with toolscommunity of Compass, Compass, but it’shelped the decades decades ofthe deep relationships with clients clients and our that has us earnof Denver Metro Association of and our that has us earn Metro our community community thatLevel has helped helped usone earnofthe the Denver Metro Association Association of Realtors’ Diamond honor as theDenver top producing teams in of Realtors’ Realtors’ Diamond Level honor honor as as one one of of the the top top producing producing teams teams in in the metroDiamond area. Level the the metro metro area. area.

KIM KOUBA KIM KIM KOUBA KOUBA 303-204-8215 | KIMKOUBA@NPRECO.COM 303-204-8215 303-204-8215||KIMKOUBA@NPRECO.COM KIMKOUBA@NPRECO.COM JODY DONLEY JODY JODY DONLEY DONLEY 720-290-8917 | JODY@NPRECO.COM 720-290-8917 720-290-8917||JODY@NPRECO.COM JODY@NPRECO.COM

OCTOBER 2021 | 57

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Ben + Erin Rule L I V S O T H E B Y ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y We are a husband & wife team with over 30 years of combined real estate experience who provide our clients with end-to-end expertise in complex real estate transactions, while building lifelong relationships along the way.

As is the case in any great team, we bring different and complementary backgrounds and skill sets in marketing, sales, finance, and negotiation to our partnership, ensuring that each client receives the personal service, comprehensive information and professional guidance needed in the rapidly changing real estate market. A home sale or purchase is a significant milestone in anyone’s life, and we pride ourselves on making it an enjoyable, rewarding, and memorable time for each of our treasured clients. Once the purchase or sale is complete, we continue our relationships, becoming longterm trusted advisors and resource providers for anything real estate related.

We welcome the opportunity to talk with you about your real estate journey.

•

Consistent recipient of DMAR Excellence Award and 5280 Top Producer

•

LIV Sotheby’s “Quarterly Best” All Four Quarters of 2020

215 Saint Paul St., Ste. 200, Denver | 303-549-9815 RULEPROPERTIES.COM

The Neir Team KENTWOOD CITY PROPERTIES The Neir Team is one of Denver’s top real estate teams based on sales, production and customer satisfaction. The team is comprised of Alex & Stacy Neir and Laura Fuller who share over 43 years of expertise.

“The Neir Team went above and beyond to help me find the perfect home. They were patient, professional, kind, and truly listened to my wants and needs!”

•

Diamond Award Winners with Denver Metro Assoc. of Realtors ($40 Million+ in production)

•

10 time winner of the Five Star Real Estate Award

•

2021 Realtrends America’s Best Real Estate Professionals

•

#2 team for sales at Kentwood City Properties 2020

1660 17th St., Ste. 100, Denver Alex: 720-935-4399 Stacy: 720-280-3004 Laura: 303-646-7443 NEIRTEAM.COM

58 | OCTOBER 2021

REALTOR PROFILES

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Dee Chirafisi

Kathy Tye

K E N T W O O D R E A L E S TAT E

K E N T W O O D R E A L E S TAT E

Dee Chirafisi lives, works, and plays in Denver and has been a resident since 1982. She lives with her husband and their three four-legged children. Having founded the Kentwood City Properties office in 1993, she is an iconic figure in the Downtown and Denver Metro area and is passionate about giving her time and energy back to this great city! Involved in almost every new condo building and loft conversion in Lodo, she is the go-to broker for buyers, sellers, and developers, who value her extensive market knowledge and unparalleled customer service. Dee is consistently a top 10 broker in Denver as noted by the Denver Board of Realtors.

Kathy believes in providing unparalleled client experiences based on exceptional service, expertise, & strong client partnerships to achieve successful buying and selling outcomes. Having lived and worked in the Denver metro area for over 35 years, Kathy makes it a priority to stay on top of the most current market trends especially in this new, extreme Denver Market. Her clients appreciate her insightful counsel based on their needs, and mindful, focused preparation in advance of successful listing and purchase campaigns. Contact Kathy today and let’s get your plan in motion!

• 2020 & 2021 Five Star Professional Award • Kentwood Cares Foundation, Board of Directors • Graduate Realtor Institute Designation • Member Denver Board of Realtors and National Association of Realtors Since 2004

R E A LTO R ®

1660 17th Street #100 Denver, CO 80202

4949 South Niagara St., Ste. 400, Denver

303-881-6312 deec@kentwoodcity.com

303-956-9743 kathytye@kentwood.com

DENVERDEE.COM

KATHYTYEREALTOR.COM

Amanda Fein

Pam Bent

K E N T W O O D R E A L E S TAT E - C H E R R Y C R E E K

RE/MAX PROFESSIONALS

Kentwood Cherry Creek’s 2020 #1 Producer Amanda integrates her tenacious energy, integrity, and analytical dexterity into every real estate transaction. She loves inspiring possibilities and enthusiastically exceeding her clients’ real estate needs and desires. While always working, Amanda enjoys a mountain getaway, is an avid hockey fan (Go Avs!), loves big dogs, and has been a serial volunteer in Denver for nearly 25 years. Most importantly, she looks forward to earning the opportunity to serve your real estate needs. A few accolades include:

When you work with me, you’ll have the dedicated support of one of the most successful Real Estate Agents available. With an outstanding track record, I will leave no stone unturned when it comes to helping you achieve your real estate goals.

•

2020 Top 5% Producer in the Denver Metro Area

•

2020 Five Star Professional Rising Star

•

2018 Denver Business Journal Forty Under Forty

•

Certified Negotiation Expert

•

Consistent top-producing agent (Upper 1%)

•

Colorado native serving all of the Denver metro area, including the Front Range foothills

•

I am a Certified Residential Specialist with over 18 years’ experience as a successful Realtor serving buyers and sellers.

•

Prior CPA, providing enrichment in all financial aspects of the transaction

•

Six consecutive years Five Star Professional, nominated by my clients for superior service

•

Featured in both Forbes and Fortune Magazines as a Real Estate Market Leader

720-935-5759 amanda@kentwood.com

303-981-8811 | pam@pambent.com

DESIREDENVER.COM

PAMBENT.COM OCTOBER 2021 | 59

REALTOR PROFILES

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Deviree Vallejo L I V S O T H E B Y ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y Consistently named one of Denver’s top producing real estate agents, LIV Sotheby’s Deviree Vallejo provides exceptional customer service and extensive market knowledge to create a seamless home buying/selling experience. With 17 years of experience and an unwavering work ethic, 95% of her clients are referral-based as relationships form the basis for Deviree’s success.

•

Top 5 Producer by Denver Metro Residential Realtors 2015-2020

•

#4 Individual Agent by Sales Volume & Total Transactions 2020 in Denver •

#2 Individual Agent by Sales Volume & #4 in Total Transactions 2019 in Denver

•

#1 Individual Agent by Sales Volume & #4 in Total Transaction 2018 in Denver

RE/MAX OF CHERRY CREEK Broker Associate/Co-Owner

• “The Name That Sells Denver” • Nine consecutive years Five Star Professional for outstanding customer service • Selling Denver’s finest neighborhoods • Decades of experience helping buyers & sellers • Client Concierge Service 303-506-6999 | luke@denvercityhomes.com facebook.com/lukegordondenverrealestate WWW.DENVERCITYHOMES.COM

Kelly Turk WEST AND MAIN HOMES

Kelly Turk is an exceptionally responsive and confident broker/realtor with West and Main Homes in Denver, Colorado.

303-931-0097 deviree@seedenverhomes.com

720-289-9475 kelly@westandmainhomes.com

SEEDENVERHOMES.COM

WESTANDMAINHOMES.COM/AGENT/KELLYTURK

Jessica Reinhardt Vitcenda RE/MAX ALLIANCE A proud Denver native and 2nd generation Realtor, Jessica’s been with RE/ MAX for almost two decades. Her love of real estate and passion to help people achieve their home ownership goals has fueled her business, which is built from referrals of happy clients who know firsthand that she is a fierce negotiator who promotes and protects their best interests. Jessica works the Denver Metro area, with an emphasis in the South Metro area where she has lived her entire life and raised her family. She has an extensive knowledge of the area, schools & neighborhoods, and is highly involved in the industry, volunteering at the local and state level to ensure the elevation of professionalism and integrity of the industry. Let Jessica put all of her knowledge, dedication and passion into helping you accomplish your real estate goals!

•

•

Chair Elect 2022 & Current Board Member, Denver Metro Association of Realtors RE/MAX Hall of Fame recipient

303-549-1223 jessicareinhardt@remax.net 60 | OCTOBER 2021

Luke Gordon

Joy Castillo L I V S O T H E B Y ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y Since 2002, Joy Castillo has turned her passion for service and her talent for strategic negotiation into a highly successful real estate business. A proud UC Berkeley alumna, Joy distinguishes herself as a Certified Residential Specialist, Certified Market Expert, Certified Negotiation Expert, and consistent recipient of the DMAR Excellence Award.

Whether you seek historic charm, panoramic mountain views, a quiet place in the suburbs, or a pied-à-terre in the center of it all, Joy can help. She raises the bar in service, knowledge, and results. “My role as analyst, market specialist, advocate, and contract expert enables me to serve the community, which fills me with great purpose and satisfaction,” Joy says.

215 Saint Paul St. Ste. 200, Denver 720-291-5816 jcastillo@livsothebysrealty.com JOYCASTILLODENVER.COM

REALTOR PROFILES

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Christie Lysaught

Cindy Blette HOMESMART ELITE GROUP

Christie will help you curate the lifestyle you’ve always dreamed of.

With over a decade of experience, Cindy provides exceptional service and professionalism. She is a Colorado native, Top producer, Mentor & Certified Seniors Real Estate Specialist. You can trust her with all of your real estate needs!

303-913-7539 | christie@kentwood.com

720-422-5098 | cindybletterealtor@gmail.com

CHRISTIELYSAUGHT.COM

COLORADOHOMEOFYOURDREAMS.COM

Colton Harris

Nancy Greager

P O R C H L I G H T R E A L E S TAT E G R O U P

CO M PA SS R E A L E STAT E

Compassion. Integrity. Trust. Expertise.

Your Colorado REALTOR®, Exclusively Serving Denver Metro & The Front Range.

• Pricing Strategy Advisor • At Home With Diversity Certified • Core Values Award Recipient

Nancy Greager draws upon 18 years of real estate experience when helping buyers and sellers navigate Denver’s dynamic market.

Award-winning. Top-Producing. Experienced.

Over 90% of her business is referral-based!

720-839-1045 | ColoradoColton.com

720-938-9001 | nancy@nancygreager.com

COLTON.HARRIS@PORCHLIGHTGROUP.COM

NANCYGREAGER.COM

Carla Bartell

Olivia Casa Monday

K E N T W O O D R E A L E S TAT E

CO R CO R A N P E R R Y & CO .

Proven experience and unparalleled service.

Carla will give your Real Estate transaction the attention it deserves. Experience. Excellence.

B E R KS H I R E H AT H A W AY H O M E S E RV I C E S

303-884-4550 | carla@corcoranperry.com

720-308-6669 | casastyle5280@gmail.com

PERR.CO/CARLA

OLIVIASELLSDENVER.COM

Greg Margheim & Kelly Sophinos

ADVERTISE HERE

K E N T W O O D R E A L E S TAT E

We utilize a highly successful team approach with over 17 years of experience and $500 million in sales. Experience Matters.

With over 20 years experience in marketing, Olivia brings knowledge and excellence to her clients. As a realtor, advocate and strong negotiator, she will put her skills to work for you.

Speak directly to the audience looking to purchase a new home.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT ARI BEN 720.266.6240 OR ARI@5280.COM

Kelly: 303-359-6836 Greg: 303-726-9471 GREGANDKELLYSELLHOMES.COM OCTOBER 2021 | 61

T H E

BEST

45

DISHES

TO (

BY PATRICIA KAOWTHUMRONG

)

EAT RIGHT NOW! Even as it faces staffing shortages, pandemic protocols, and supply chain disruptions, Denver’s dining scene remains dynamic, deep, and downright delicious. Here’s your guide to the most delectable meals in the Mile High City.

PHOTOGR APHY BY JONI SCHRANTZ

It’s always grilling season at Uncle’s Speer location, where chefowner Tommy Lee and sous chef Sean May offer a tightly curated menu of yakitori (Japanese-style skewered chicken). Choose from nearly a dozen poultry preparations—for which May butchers up to 20 whole birds per week—including meatballs with cured egg yolk, dirty-rice-stuffed wings, and green-miso-cloaked breast. The lineup is available for dinner Monday through Thursday, making it a fingerlicking cure to your weeknight blues. Starting at $4 per stick

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4545 BEST DISHES BEST DISHES

So Radish’s fried cauliflower tacos

SMART SWAPS

Even if you eat meat, trading in your go-to animal-protein-centric dishes for these standout vegetarian renditions is a choice you’ll feel good about.

IF YOU’RE ORDER CRAVING... THE...

64

AT...

BECAUSE...

A baconcrumble-topped baked potato

Loaded elote baked potato

The Easy Vegan pop-up at the City Park and South Pearl Street farmers’ markets

This hollowed-out spud—stacked with fire-roasted Hatch chiles, garlic whipped potatoes, charred corn, Tajín aïoli, and other toppings—is an elevated, improved version of the cafeteria staple, even without the meat. $12

Al pastor tacos

Fried cauliflower tacos

So Radish in Arvada

A nutty cilantro-cashew crema, slices of avocado, and pickled red onion add pizzazz to nuggets of golden cauliflower, a winning alternative to traditional street tacos loaded with pig. $14

Corned beef hash

Vegetable hash

Sullivan Scrap Kitchen in City Park West

Crispy potatoes and a medley of in-season goodies like Hazel Dell mushrooms and eggplant offer a nourishing base for two eggs cooked your way.

Get it during weekend brunch at the zero-waste restaurant. $13

Wings

Seitan wings

Fire On the Mountain in Washington Park West and West Highland

A selection of 15 tongue-tingling sauces, including spicy peanut and raspberry habanero, punches up vegan wings made with crunchy, house-made seitan (a wheat-based protein). Starting at $10 for six

Chicken tibs

Veggie Delight

Konjo Ethiopian Food’s Edgewater Public Market stall and food truck

Three slow-cooked vegan dishes—choose among miser (red lentils), gomen with dinich (spinach and potatoes), tikel gomen (cabbage, carrots, and potatoes), and kik (yellow split peas)—come with sheets of injera for scooping. $13

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FRIED CHICKEN

WHICH ’WICH?

Denverites are lucky to live in a haven of handheld meals. Let us guide you to the one that will satisfy your cravings.

SIGNATURE WINGS

Mono Mono Korean Fried Chicken

Want something fried?

Obviously.

LoDo and City Park In 2021, Mono Mono opened two locations in Denver, introducing a roster of nearly a dozen Korean crispy chicken dishes. Its audibly crunchy wings are fried in two stages at lower temperatures, allowing the fat to render from the skin to achieve a light, crackly crust. Ask for them doused in the restaurant’s Hot & Spicy sauce. Starting at $11 for six

COUNTRY KAARAGE

Pony Up

From left: Courtesy of Mono Mono Korean Fried Chicken; Courtesy of Jake Riederer

LoDo When you’re throwing a few back at Pony Up, it’s almost impossible not to order one of the five stellar French dips, but the bar’s take on Japanese fried chicken is inspiring patrons to adopt a new go-to. The meaty strips of boneless thigh meat are flavored with hints of ginger, garlic, and soy sauce and coated in a flaky, durable crust that remains crisp—even through a third round. $12

How do you like your bread?

Land or sea?

Fish are food, not friends.

Pirate Alley’s shrimp po’ boy Kyle and Katy Foster (the husband-and-wife team behind now-closed Julep) make several iterations of the classic Louisiana sandwich at Pirate Alley, a takeout-only, lunchtime pop-up at Stir Cooking School. The version with lightly battered fried shrimp, sweet remoulade, shredded lettuce, and pickled green tomatoes on a Vinh Xuong Bakery baguette offers a taste of NOLA in the heart of Highland. $14

Nah.

I dig pig.

Pillowy soft.

Open’s Toru katsu sandwich At Open—a walk-up kitchen inside Congress Park’s Goosetown Tavern—this behemoth features a hefty panko-breaded and fried pork cutlet, sliced cabbage, luscious katsu sauce, and spicy Japanese mustard snuggled between two slices of Broomfield’s Enchanted Oven shokupan. Owner Jake Riederer tapped Matsuhisa chef Toru Watanabe to submit the recipe for Open’s menu, which sports a rotating roster of sandwiches from six to eight local culinary pros. $15

BØH’s Piada torta Lurking in the Dairy Block alleyway at the Free Market entrance is counter-service taqueria BØH, where chef de cuisine Michael Diaz de Leon piles cochinita pibil—moist, achiote-pepper-rubbed pork—inside a squishy torta pocket made from locally hand-milled Dry Storage flour and baked in a hearth oven on-site. A tangle of tangy xnipec pickled onions and a smear of zesty salsa aguacate (avocado and tomatillo salsa) add oomph to the lunchtime feast. $12 Crusty and toasty.

What’s more tantalizing to you?

FRIED CHICKEN

Welton Street Cafe Five Points The Dickersons have served Southern and Caribbean fare—including some of the juiciest, crunchiest fried chicken in town—at this beloved Five Points institution for 22 years. The bone-in pieces are generously rubbed with a familyrecipe seasoning mixture before they’re dredged in flour and fried until golden brown. If choosing just two of the 15 sides seems daunting, take our advice: Get the collard greens. $23

Pork on pork.

Elita Specialty Kitchen’s Cubano Inside Aurora’s Stanley Marketplace, chef-owner Raquela Serber decks out her masterpiece with citrusand garlic-tinged mojo pork, smoky ham, Swiss cheese, hibiscus-pickled onions, and kosher pickles, all set inside a bolillo roll from nearby Mercado Azteca & Deli. The sandwich is seared a la plancha with butter for a heavenly, afternoon-nap-inducing meal. $13

Slow-smoked red meat.

Pho King Rapidos’ pho banh mi For this food truck’s mash-up of two iconic Vietnamese dishes, owners Long Nguyen and Shauna Seaman smoke up to 70 pounds of brisket per week. The thinly sliced, star-anise-scented meat is presented on a French baguette dressed with pickled red onion, sliced jalapeños, Thai basil, cilantro, English cucumbers, scallions, and hoisin-and-Sriracha-spiced barbecue sauce. $15

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RISE & SHINE

No matter what you’re doing later, give your Saturday or Sunday morning the decadent start it deserves.

BEFORE YOU: Go to the Broncos game GET THE: Buddy Mary at Baba & Pop’s Handmade Pierogi in Aurora

This joint’s Sunday brunch lineup stars ribsticking offerings (think: pierogi and kielbasa Benedicts). But the most indulgent item lives on the drink menu: The Buddy Mary is studded with a parade of skewered accoutrements, including fried chicken kebabs, potato and cheese pierogi, kielbasa sausage, pickled veggies, and cheese curds. Weighing in at 50 ounces, it’s the pregame cocktail of champions. $48 BEFORE YOU: Head up the hill to hike GET THE: Breakfast sandwich at Chicken Rebel in Highland or Westminster

Since debuting in Denver as a food truck four years ago, this cult favorite has expanded its chicken sandwich empire into two brick-andmortar outposts. To give her gargantuan classic fried chicken breast stacker a brunch hour makeover, chef-owner Lydie Lovett adds a fried egg and two thick slices of bacon. Bonus: The Westminster location has a drive-thru, so you can pick up a delicious distraction from I-70 traffic without leaving your car. $12 BEFORE YOU: Shop for clothes with Mom GET THE: Bombolinis at Annette in Aurora

Biting into one of chef-owner Caroline Glover’s bombolinis is a brunch lover’s dream come true— but only if you don’t sleep in, since the sourdough

Italian doughnuts, available exclusively on Sunday mornings, often sell out quickly. This fall, look for flavors like pear cream with cinnamon sugar and raspberry cream with lemon sugar— sustenance that will keep you smiling no matter what feedback Mom has for you. $4 each

KOREANSTYLE CORN DOGS

BEFORE YOU: Catch up on your inbox GET THE: Ajarski at House of Bread in south Denver

South Parker Road gained a destination for Armenian, Georgian, and other international morning fare when House of Bread arrived in November 2020. One of the family-owned bakery’s most popular dishes is the ajarski, a hearty baked-to-order meal of two eggs nestled in an oval-shaped bread boat with a layer of melty mozzarella and feta. To stimulate your brain cells, pair the knife-and-fork affair with a cup of potent, unfiltered Armenian coffee. Starting at $11

BEFORE YOU: Binge Netflix all day GET THE: Biscuits and gravy at American Elm in West Highland

Chef Brent Turnipseede’s bevy of killer weekend brunch specialties includes a glorious platter of giant brown butter biscuits blanketed with rich, black-pepper-flecked gravy. And, just to ensure you don’t leave the couch for the rest of the day, the dish is served with a side of smashed tots, which are best consumed “Elm style”; that is, coated in smoked cheddar, pickled Fresno peppers, sliced scallions, and bacon bits. $14

KOREAN CORNFLAKE DOG

▲Ginger Pig Sunnyside Chef-owner Natascha Hess excels at playful Pan-Asian eats, and her fried dinner on a stick— a Nathan’s hot dog wrapped in yeasted dough, rolled in panko and cornflakes, dusted with sugar, and fancied up with a combination of ketchup, mustard, sliced scallions, and black and white sesame seeds—is no exception. $10 CHEESE DOG

Mukja Food Truck This mobile eatery’s bestseller consists of a baton of gooey fried cheese dusted with sugar and garnished with spicy ketchup and homemade honey mustard.

You can also get it topped with crumbled Flamin’ Hot Cheetos and nacho cheese or with mayo, Parmesan, and Tajín. Both are delectable options. Starting at $4

Greenwood Village

Baba & Pop’s Handmade Pierogi’s Buddy Mary

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Mama’s Noodle Cafe’s proximity to Cherry Creek High School inspired chef-owner Thuan La to invent this portable, takeout-friendly snack. To satisfy teenage appetites, he enshrines Hebrew National beef franks in thin rice flour batter and rice bits and showers them with various toppings, like the Tokyo’s sweet unagi tare (eel sauce), Kewpie mayo, and garlicky seasoning. $6

From left: Courtesy of Lucy Beaugard; Courtesy of Jeff Fierberg

TOKYO CRUNCH DAWG

Mama’s Noodle Cafe

45 BEST DISHES

HOLY POZOLE A guide to enjoying La Diabla Pozole y Mezcal’s divine stew.

Your very own lime squeezer!

Pozolerias may not be ubiquitous in Denver, but neither were taquerias 10 years ago, when chef Jose Avila brought Machete Tequila & Tacos to town.

His latest venture, which opened in Ballpark in June, is an homage to the mom-and-pop shops across his hometown of Mexico City that specialize in the meat-and-hominy-studded broth. (Avila even offers a two-for-the-price-of-one deal on Thursdays, a common practice in the City of Palaces.) “Most pozole in Denver restaurants comes out of a can,” Avila says.

“I don’t blame them; it’s not what they do. But we want to do it the way it should be done.” That means importing dry heirloom Oaxacan corn and nixtamalizing it (boiling it with lime sodium and rinsing off the film with water, Avila says, “over and over and over”).

Then, the large kernels must be peeled by hand, one at a time, before they’re ready to cook overnight in the broth, which doesn’t leave the stove until it hits your bowl. $17 —Jessica LaRusso

STEP 1: Choose your caldo. The blanco is “just a straight-up good broth, no secrets,” Avila says. The rojo gets its smoky flavor from dried chiles, including guajillos and puyas, and the verde is bright and fresh, with pepitas and poblano peppers.

STEP 2: Select shredded Alamosa-sourced chicken or cabeza de cerdo (pig’s head) from hogs raised on Avila’s Wellington farm. Their bones help give the caldo its rich flavor.

STEP 3: When your meal arrives, mix in the tangle of lettuce, cabbage, radish, and onions on top (you can also add avocado and chicharróns)—or leave it floating, which provides a delightful crunch.

“There are no rules,” Avila says.

STEP 4: Use the provided handheld plastic juicer to sprinkle the dish with fresh lime juice and amp up the heat level with a squeeze of hot sauce.

STEP 5: Scoop up your first bites with the accompanying crunchy tostada, which is hardened on a flattop grill instead of being fried in oil. When that’s gone, turn to your spoon—until you need to bring the bowl to your lips to slurp up the last drops.

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45 BEST DISHES

KNOW YOUR NOODLE A primer on today’s tastiest Italian, Japanese, and Chinese carbs—and where in the Mile High City to find them.

Anolini

Lamian

Pappardelle

Origin: Italy Form: A crescent- or circularshaped ravioli (filled pasta) with ruffled edges Source: At Restaurant Olivia in Washington Park, chef Ty Leon’s anolini changes with the seasons.

This fall, he’s stuffing half-dollar-size rounds of pasta with earthy squash and serving them in a sage butter and huckleberry-compote-sweetened sauce with pieces of king crab. $25

Origin: China Form: Noodles fashioned by twisting, stretching, and folding wheat flour dough into thin or wide strands Source: On food truck Yuan Wonton’s rotating menu, chefowner Penelope Wong recently debuted a wide-belted lamian dish. The best part? Each singleserving plate comprises one chewy, painstakingly pulled-toorder noodle slicked with spicy sesame sauce. $8

Origin: Italy Form: A long, extra-wide pasta with rippled ends Source: Everything on chef Cody Cheetham’s handmade pasta menu at LoDo’s Tavernetta is excellent—but this fall, his pappardelle is our order of choice. The noodles are enameled with a wild mushroom ragu and taleggio fonduta (an Italianstyle fondue). Market price

\ ah-no-lee-nee

Capellini

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\ la-mee-en

Ramen

\ rah-men

Origin: Italy Form: Threads of pasta that are slightly thicker than angel hair Source: To make the aglio e olio at Highland’s Spuntino, chef Cindhura Reddy and chef de cuisine Austin Nickel hand-roll tresses of capellini, which are tossed in a sauce built from Reddy’s South Indian garlic pickles, Corto olive oil, garliccilantro breadcrumbs, and a 63-degree poached egg. $27

Dao Xiao Mian

Mixian

Origin: China Form: Wide, flat rice noodles peeled from a slab of dough using a knife Source: Ask for the Chinese menu at Blue Ocean, off East Belleview Avenue in south Denver, to find the no-frills restaurant’s dao xiao mian, listed as “knife-shaved noodles.” The soft, melt-in-yourmouth shards are made fresh and simmered in a gently spiced, chicken-soup-like broth with bits of pork, tomato, and cabbage. $14

Origin: China Form: A slippery, spaghettilike rice noodle Source: Ten Seconds Yunnan Rice Noodles on South Havana Street in Aurora specializes in mixian rice noodle soup from China’s Yunnan province. Get the Original, a stone bowl of pork broth accompanied by a side of noodles and other add-ins—slices of ham, wood ear mushrooms, minced pork—for dunking and slurping. $13

\ mix-see-en

Origin: China Form: A variation of lamian that’s often served in a savory meat- or fish-based broth in Japanese cuisine Source: Chef-owner Takashi Tamai makes fresh noodles every morning at Sunnyside’s Ramen Star. Tuck into a bowl of his shoyu ramen: a vegetarian broth laden with sliced green onions, fermented bamboo shoots, mixed fresh greens, corn, bean sprouts, and a potato pierogi (yes, really). $17

Triangoli

\ tree-an-go-lee Origin: Italy Form: A triangular-shaped ravioli with fluted edges Source: At Benzina in South Park Hill, executive chef Daniele Bolognini injects delicate triangoli with a celery root and cheese mixture and tops the delicate dumplings with fresh truffles and Grana Padano cheese. $29 Credits Tk

\ dow-show-mee-en

\ pah-pahr-del-eh

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BURGERS

Tavernetta’s pappardelle with mushroom ragu and taleggio fonduta

PORK BURGER

Sunday Vinyl Wine Bar LoDo Tavernetta’s vinyl-spinning sister excels at bites that complement a good glass of wine, and that repertoire includes a juicy pork patty nestled inside a fluffy potato bun with a handful of thinly shredded lettuce. It’s presented alongside a pile of crispy fries—a simple yet satisfying partner for whatever vintage you’re sipping. $18 SLUG BURGER

Split Lip Chicken at Number 38 RiNo This former pop-up from Ultreia executive chef Adam Branz and partners David Wright and Jessica Richter found a permanent home at RiNo food hall Number 38 in September. The hot chicken sandwiches are divine, but it’s the Slug Burger we crave. Inspired by the Mississippi classic, Split Lip’s version is built with a fried, bread-crumbenriched beef patty, an abundance of thinly sliced pickles, and a Thousand Island–esque sauce. $7 THE TAP

Highland Tap & Burger

From Left: Anine Bösenberg; Courtesy of Kayla Jones/Tap & Burger

Credits Tk

Multiple locations The Tap landed on the menu at this respected burger chain in 2020 and quickly gained the affections of French onion soup (and dip) fanatics across the Denver area. The messy, napkin-demanding tour de force is outfitted with a natural beef patty, Swiss cheese, French onion soup aïoli, crispy onion straws, red onion, and lettuce and served with a bowl of warm beef jus. $15

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TREAT YOURSELF

YOU SCORED A BIG RAISE

GRANDMA STUFFED A $50 BILL IN YOUR BIRTHDAY CARD

Credits Tk

Whether you have a little extra cash or a recent checking account windfall, these dishes are worth the splurge.

45 BEST DISHES 1

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6 $225 The Sinker at Jax Fish House and Oyster Bar Multiple locations Choose three or four freeloading friends to toast your prosperity and help you devour this iced raw bar platter, stocked with one pound of peel-and-eat shrimp; one pound of king crab; 12 shucked oysters; a shrimp, octopus, and squid salad; Emersum ahi tuna poke; and whitefish roe caviar with house-made potato chips and crème fraîche. (Smaller versions, for $55 and $110, are also available.)

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$95 Hot Stone Wagyu at Corrida Boulder The team at this swanky Spanish steak house will hook you up with thick slices of immaculately marbled, imported Japanese A5 wagyu to cook over hot stones at your table. The spread includes sherry jus with beef cracklings and whipped egg yolk for dipping.

A WARM WELCOME

$60 Charcuterie Board at Blackbelly Boulder The meaty elements on Blackbelly’s Grand Selection platter are crafted in-house under the direction of head butcher Kelly Kawachi.

Each board includes four of her creations— such as Calabrian-chile-spiked ’nduja, 12-month-cured pork leg salumi, and pork terrine bejeweled with Hatch chiles and herbs—and four cheeses, all of which are paired with fixings like apple chutney, local honeycomb, and house pickles.

African Grill & Bar’s akwaaba platter is an edible introduction to the world’s second-largest continent.

On your first visit to Lakewood’s African Grill & Bar—where you’ll likely be greeted by owners Sylvester and Theodora Osei-Fordwuo or one of their three children—ordering the akwaaba platter is a no-brainer. Akwaaba means “welcome” in the family’s Ghanaian dialect, and like the full menu, the dish’s components span the continent. While you might be tempted to go back again and again for the two-person sampler, broken down below, it’s meant to prompt diners to explore the casual restaurant’s other offerings, from lamb kebabs to palm butter soup to cassava fufu (starchy, comforting dough balls). “Sometimes we have to encourage people to get a different item,” Theodora says. “People get stuck on it.”

We understand why. $32 —JL 1. Two chicken drumsticks are roasted and then deep-fried—a simple and traditional preparation, says Theodora, who spent some of her childhood in Nigeria— which results in succulent meat and crackly skin.

2. The unleavened, grilled wheat bread is known as chapati in East Africa.

Anine Bösenberg

Credits Tk

$54 Peking Duck at Ace Eat Serve Uptown Executive chef Thach Tran employs a four-day process to produce this Chinese specialty, including flying in Pekin ducks from Indiana and Long Island (both homes to acclaimed duckfarming communities), dry-aging the birds in a walk-in cooler, and basting them with hot oil to crisp the skin. The presentation is impressive, with the gleaming duck carved tableside and accompanied by mu shu crêpes, sliced scallions and cucumbers, pickled chiles, sesame hoisin, and an apricot chile jam. $30–$50 Whole Steamed Lobster at Manzo Lobster and Oyster Bar Uptown To ensure his clawed creatures are the freshest on the Front Range, owner Rich Manzo hired a marine biologist to install a 2,500-gallon live lobster tank inside his restaurant. The marketpriced crustaceans are cooked to order in just six minutes using a special steamer that ensures a juicy, never rubbery bang for your buck.

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5

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3. Indian immigrants introduced samosas to East Africa, and the triangular pastry pockets are particularly popular in Kenya. The

Osei-Fordwuos stuff their mouthwatering vegetarian versions with cabbage, peas, onions, and warming spices, like cloves.

4. The Osei-Fordwuos pull from the culinary traditions of Ghana, where Sylvester grew up, to prepare their dairy-free cabbage and spinach stews. The curryesque, veggie-heavy blends get their flavors from chunks of carrot, onion, and ginger.

5. Slow-cooked for seven hours, the tomato-y jollof

rice is a West African specialty. (Each country in the region has its own variation, and the “jollof wars” between Ghana and Nigeria are particularly impassioned.) Traditionally, the dish is made with a protein, but to serve their vegetarian customers, the Osei-Fordwuos prepare it without meat.

6. Like everything on the menu, the fried plantains have no added sugar, allowing the bananas’ natural sweetness to shine.

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PIZZA

DIAVOLO

Redeemer Pizza

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RiNo

Joy Hill

In July, Spencer White, Alexander Figura, and LuLu Clair, the minds behind pasta palace Dio Mio, debuted their highly anticipated Redeemer Pizza in the former Meadowlark Kitchen space. Since then, Denverites have been lining up for New York–style slices and whole pies, including the Diavolo with mozzarella, pepperoncini, pepperoni, soppressata, and pickled chiles. Mental note: The sourdough edging is even better dunked in a side of the homemade ranch.

This South Broadway pizzeria slings beautifully blistered, woodfired pies with a Colorado twist: Its naturally leavened (i.e., chemicaladditive-free) crust is made with locally grown and milled heirloom wheat flours. You can taste the difference through the simplicity of the margherita pizza’s tomato sauce, house-made mozzarella, fresh basil, and Grana Padano.

OCTOBER 2021

Overland

Blue Pan Congress Park and West Highland Blue Pan’s square, Detroit-style pies have earned scores of accolades, including top honors at international pizza competitions. And rightfully so: The spot’s doughy, crispy-cheeseedged crust accommodates any assortment of toppings. We’re partial to the Brooklyn Bridge, a saucecoated beauty crowned with brick cheese, mozzarella, pepperoni, sausage, pecorino, and tidy clumps of creamy ricotta.

45 BEST DISHES

BIRRIA BREAKDOWN

How whole goat becomes a melt-in-your-mouth taco topper at Work & Class in RiNo.

LET IT BRIE Goed Zuur’s general manager and cheese program director dishes about the Five Points restaurant’s cheesecake.

Rachel Smith may be certified by the American Cheese Society, but she’s not snooty. Case in point: Goed Zuur’s seasonally rotating savory cheesecake. In addition to curating the sour-beer-centric gastropub’s renowned rotating cheese menu, which features products sourced from makers across the world, Smith and her tight-knit team whip up fanciful inventions like this fall’s riff on the American dessert. It sports a base of blackberry-infused Le Delice de Mon Sire brie capped with rabbit rillette (a pâtélike spread), cured lemon peel, and thyme jelly, all set on a Ritz cracker crust. We had questions—and, luckily, Smith had answers. $10

Over the past year, birria has popped up at restaurants across Denver in burritos, griddled tacos, and even ramen, but the meaty Mexican goat stew has been a mainstay at Work & Class since the RiNo hot spot opened its repurposed-shipping-container doors eight years ago. There, chef-owner Dana Rodriguez presents a traditional version of the dish called cabrito (roasted young goat). Currently an every-other-week special, the protein comes with a simple garbanzo bean salad and house-made tortillas.

Here’s what makes Rodriguez’s cabrito the GOAT. Market price

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Pounds of cabrito produced from each whole goat the restaurant gets from farms in Boulder, Salida, and Evans and butchers in-house

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Hours the bone-in goat pieces are brined to tender perfection (this also eliminates the meat’s gaminess) before spending another 12 hours marinating in a mixture of guajillo chile, onion, garlic, oregano, rosemary, and cumin

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Quarts of collagen-rich bone broth that collect at the bottom of the pan as the goat bakes to a fall-off-the-bone consistency

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Heat-conducting granite rocks layered in a pan with the protein and fragrant banana, agave, or avocado leaves as it all roasts overnight

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Ingredients—garbanzo beans, cilantro, onion, olive oil, lime juice, salt, and pepper—in the salad that tops the ultratender, bonebroth-soaked cabrito m

5280: Cheesecake is usually a dessert—why go savory?

Rachel Smith: We like to do creative interpretations of different dishes. There’s a motivation to do something you don’t typically see yet is familiar enough and pairs well with sour beer.

Anine Bösenberg

What inspires each iteration?

We’re all part of putting it together and definitely want the cheesecake’s flavors to be a little lighter and crisper in spring and summer and heavier and richer in the fall and winter. We’re always thinking about pairings for it, too, and like to play with the flavors in the beers, which also are made with different ingredients every season.

How should we dig in?

Because the cheesecake is so delicate, we serve it at room temperature. It kind of eats like a quiche or soufflé and is fluffy, creamy, and delicious. If there’s any left on the pan, you can use our [house-baked] bread to get all of the extra bits. You can’t waste any of it.

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Last year, Denver’s plant shop owners found themselves nurturing more than pothos and orchids: Their customer base grew, too, as homebound city dwellers bought a houseplant (or eight) to inject some green into their quarantine. Now, the world tiptoes toward normalcy, but our obsession with indoor gardening continues— even though many of us can’t keep anything with roots alive. Luckily, Colorado experts have a bouquet of wisdom to share.

BY ANGELA UFHEIL ILLUSTRATIONS BY GABY D ’ALESSANDRO

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ROOM FOR GROWTH

No, you don’t have a black thumb.

You just fell victim to one of these rookie plant-parenting mistakes.

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ntent on bringing the outside world into your home during the pandemic’s darkest days, you purchased a plant. At first, it was a perky bright spot in your kitchen. Soon, though, droopiness set in. You tried everything as its leaves yellowed and shriveled, but eventually you apologized to your desiccated sprout, dropped it in the compost bin, and labeled yourself the Plant Killer. Well, we want you to try again—once you’ve eradicated three common newbie behaviors that likely cut your plant’s life short.

YOU REACHED FOR

THE WRONG RESOURCES.

Plant parenthood is like actual parenthood in one crucial way—seeking advice online can be risky unless you can sort good ideas from terrible ones. “You almost never know if the person who wrote that ‘helpful’ internet article is dealing with the same conditions,” says Victor Sosa-Meza, owner of the Plant Room in Jefferson Park. Instead, hit up experts in the region. “We can ask questions to figure out your exact situation,” Sosa-Meza says. Most local nursery owners are happy to help, even if they didn’t sell you the flora themselves.

YOU PUT YOUR LEAFY FRIEND

Photosynthesis lessons in elementary school were clear: Plants need as much sunshine as possible to create vital nutrients. Unfortunately, the takeaways from those classes might be a bit too simplistic for plant guardianship. “Having direct light is pretty detrimental,” says Neicy Geis, owner of Tigerlily Goods in the West Highland neighborhood.

“The rays are too much and can burn the leaves.” Most verdure prefers bright, indirect light—see “Here Comes The Sun” on page 78—and for those of you dwelling in shaded garden-level apartments, there are plenty of varieties that can handle medium light.

YOU GAVE YOUR GREENERY

TOO MUCH WATER.

Many novices, terrified of neglecting their new additions, overcorrect and become helicopter horticulturists, showering them with affection in the form of daily H2O. “We’re taught that plants need water,” says Maurice Ka of Rosehouse Botanicals on Broadway. “It becomes our love language.” But plants crave oxygen, too, and overly dampened, dense soil prevents the molecules from reaching the roots, leading to decay. Nursery staffers usually tell you how often to sprinkle each variety.

Or just stick your finger into the soil: If the first inch or so of dirt is dry, your flora is likely ready for a hearty drink.

TALK LIKE A HORTICULTURIST Use our vegetal vocab cheat sheet to brush up on houseplant lingo.

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AIR PLANTS Magically lowmaintenance plants that don’t need soil to grow.

CACTI Spiky plants well-adapted to drought and house cats.

EDIBLES Houseplants that can be eaten, including fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

LEAF NODE A small swelling on the stem where new growth emerges, a signal that your plant is happy.

NEEM OIL A naturally occurring pesticide harvested from neem tree seeds.

Clockwise from top right: Getty Images; Martí Sans/Stocksy; Courtesy of Overgrown Home; Chris Stein/Getty Images; Mint Images/Getty Images

IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT.

I T ’S GROW T IME

ADOPTION AGENCIES While the plants at Denver’s plethora of nurseries may be pricier than offerings at Home Depot or Lowes, the extra outlay benefits your bundle of joy: Most of the sales associates at the big-box stores simply aren’t as plant savvy as these local purveyors, who dole out advice before you buckle in your bromeliad.

Their involvement doesn’t have to stop there, either—most offer additional perks to help you care for your new addition or grow your family further.

After all, it takes a village.

PLEASE, PLANTS Alongside pothos, parlor palms, and other high-demand selections, Olivia Meininger sells sex toys, lingerie, skincare products, and smoking accessories at this Capitol Hill boutique. Funky red bulbs create a vibe that says nightclub instead of nursery. 226 E. 13th Ave., pleaseplants.com

Clockwise from top: Courtesy of Coburn Huff; Phong Pham Quoc/EyeEm/Getty Images; Wladimir Bulgar/Science Photo Library/Getty Images

TIGERLILY GOODS Frustrated by wasteful bouquets, Neicy Geis opened Tigerlily Goods in West Highland to encourage shoppers to gift still-living foliage. We especially love her section of pet-friendly offerings that won’t make a curious kitten ill post-nibble. 3795 Grove St., tigerlilygoods.com STEPH FLORET Stephanie Esposito runs a mostly online shop selling beginner-friendly goods (check her events page to catch her IRL at the occasional farmers’ market) as well as flower arrangements. stephfloret.com GREEN LADY GARDENS Jessica Schutz built her store in the Art District on Santa Fe on a simple idea: People don’t kill plants; they’ve just never had the right one. Her handy labeling system plays matchmaker, helping you identify appropriate selections for your home’s light level and your experience.

733 Santa Fe Drive, greenladygardens.com LITTLE LULA ROSE An outgrowth of proprietor Oliver Miller-Finkel’s coffeeshop down the road, Lula Rose General Store, this cactus-and-succulent-focused nursery inhabits a sunlight-filled former car dealership in the Congress Park neighborhood. 3030 E. Colfax Ave., littlelularose.com

PERLITE Expanded volcanic rock you can mix into potting soil to encourage drainage.

ROOT-BOUND When a plant’s root system has become too big for its container.

ReRoot

THE PERKS Sells plants online for easy family expansion

Hosts parenting workshops

Sends you home with a care card so you never have to consult Google

Offers house calls to impart greenthumbed wisdom

Stocks rare plants for those hoping to enter the, ahem, Ivy League of plant parenthood

ROOT ROT When roots decay, usually due to pests, fungi, or overwatering.

STEM CUTTING A healthy stem, cut from a plant, that’s used to begin growing a new plant.

THE TERRORIUM SHOP Rodent skulls. Insect specimens. Scavenged teeth. Amber Hage-Ali runs a little plant shop of horrors in the Regis neighborhood, where her artful, one-of-a-kind “terroriums,” showcasing responsibly sourced taxidermy bones alongside moss and other greens, please fans of all things macabre. 3611 W. 49th Ave., theterroriumshop.co REROOT Owner Paige Briscoe applies the punch-card model commonly seen at coffeeshops to her RiNo locale: Choose any four-inch plant for free after purchasing 10.

Since you’re already getting something for nothing, we recommend buying the dried-eucalyptus-packed shower bundle, which releases a soothing scent when exposed to steam. 1218 34th St., rerootgardens.com THE URBAN NURSERY Allie Huston owns both this indoor nursery in RiNo and an outdoor-oriented shop in Englewood called Birdsall & Co. The Garden Boutique. Stop by the Urban Nursery for help matching a plant with a container—because, yes, the container matters (see “Hold Me Tight” on page 80). 3040 Blake St., Suite 131, birdsallgarden.com ROSEHOUSE BOTANICALS This South Broadway living botanica takes a delightfully scattershot approach to curation, stocking cacti, succulents, air plants, orchids, and tropical varietals.

Partner Kristin Schuch also works at Apothecary Tinctura, so you’ll find her essential oils and herbal medicine here too. 14 S. Broadway, rosehousebotanicals.com

Visit 5280.com for even more places in Denver to purchase your next plant.

SUCCULENTS Plants with thick tissue adapted to store water—so they need much less H₂O than you’d think.

TROPICALS Plants native to tropical areas that are dramatic in look and, at times, care requirements.

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CONDITIONAL LOVE

Use our selection graph to help you figure out if your new lipstick vine will agree with your watering habits, if the lighting in your home will murder a Chinese evergreen, and whether you’re truly ready for a fiddle-leaf fig.

KEY

FULL SUNLIGHT

GOOD FOR BEGINNERS

REQUIRES SOME SKILL

PAIN IN THE A**

Fantasy Venice Tradescantia nanouk Eastern Prickly Pear Opuntia humifusa HERE COMES THE SUN Time to shed some light on your home’s sunshine conditions: Other than desert cacti and the occasional succulent, few plants tolerate full sun, when rays of light shine directly onto your plant (windows that face south usually get the most direct light in Colorado). Lots crave bright, indirect light, which requires pulling the plant back from the window a few feet. Leaves should cast hazy shadows rather than ones with distinct outlines.

Certain varieties call for partial sunlight and do best by a westor east-facing window. Finally, a few sprouts want medium light.

These growers may skew a touch goth, but their moods will improve considerably if you situate them near a porthole to the north.

Bird of Paradise Strelitzia reginae

Pencil Firestick Plant Euphorbia tirucalli

Chinese Money Plant Pilea peperomioides Rex Begonia Begonia rex-cultorum Triostar Stromanthe Stromanthe sanguinea

String of Turtles Peperomia prostrata

Fiddle-Leaf Fig Ficus lyrata

Lipstick Vine Aeschynanthus radicans Jade Plant Crassula ovata

Rattlesnake Plant Calathea lancifolia

Calidora Elephant’s Ear Alocasia calidora

Swiss Cheese Plant Monstera adansonii Devil’s Ivy/Pothos Epipremnum aureum

Sweetheart Philodendron Philodendron Brasil

Peace Lily Spathiphyllum walissi

Chinese Evergreen Aglaonema

PARTIAL SUNLIGHT

Nerve Plant Fittonia albivenis Snake Plant Dracaena trifasciata

ZZ Plant Zamioculcas zamiifolia

LESS WATER 78

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MORE WATER

I T ’S GROW T IME

PHONE A FOLIAGE FRIEND

From top: Getty Images; Irina Orlova/Getty Images; Courtesy of Coburn Huff; Matthew Spaulding/Stocksy; Liudmila Chernetska/Getty Images

Is your once-luscious prayer plant suddenly wilting? Do you break into a cold sweat when it’s time to repot? We asked the experts for answers to our staff’s— and our readers’—most pressing questions.

THE QUESTION

THE ANSWER

THE CAVEAT

My cats are twin menaces. How do I keep them away from my plants?

—Geoff Van Dyke, editorial director, 5280

“Pet stores sell sprays you can use to ward off your cat—the spritz makes the leaves taste bitter. I stretch aluminum foil or plastic wrap across the soil to keep animals from digging in the dirt too.”

—Stephanie Esposito, Steph Floret

“Certain leaves dry out when you spray them, so you might just want to put them up high, out of kitty’s reach.

Or opt for varieties that are nontoxic to cats, such as bird’s nest ferns. That way, you don’t have to worry about kitty getting sick.” —Floret

How do I know what kind of soil I should be using for my plant?

—@rossollo

“Usually, you want your potting soil to be rougher than garden soil because the larger particles help it drain. Most garden stores sell a sterilized loam soil, which is a good base for the blend. Mix it with equal parts perlite.” —Paige Briscoe, ReRoot Gardens

“Succulents and cacti thrive in sandy dirt—they’re from the desert, after all. Shoot for equal parts sand, soil, and perlite. You can even add some orchid bark for plants that want extra drainage.” —Briscoe

How do I know if a plant needs to move to a larger pot?

—@liajane

“You should only see soil through the container’s drainage holes.

If the only thing visible is roots, your plant is root-bound and needs a bigger pot. Gently squeeze the outside of your pot to loosen the soil, grip the stem near where it enters the dirt, and gently wiggle it out. Place it into the new pot and fill in soil around it.” —Victor SosaMeza, The Plant Room

“Roots won’t grow faster if you put them in a huge pot.

Unless your plant is massively root-bound, I’d choose a pot that’s around two inches larger in diameter [than the previous pot].” —Sosa-Meza

How do I know if my plants have pests? Should I treat them if they do?

—Jessica LaRusso, managing editor, 5280

“Look at the greenery and soil. If you see white bugs that look like tiny grasshoppers, you have aphids. They reproduce quickly, so make sure to isolate your plant and spray it with neem oil or another pesticide. If you see fine, cobweblike clusters on your leaves, that’s a sign of spider mites. Spray them with pressurized water to dislodge them, then apply neem oil.” —Amber Hage-Ali, The Terrorium Shop

“Sunshine can burn leaves recently treated with neem oil, so make sure you keep the plant in a shadier area.” —Hage-Ali

My 10-year-old rubber tree drops leaves daily. Why? —@su-faye

“Unless you’re over- or under-watering, it sounds like a fertilizer issue. Most plants want to be fed. I love fertilizers with fish and seaweed—they’re organic and won’t burn your sprouts like a chemical fertilizer. Earthworm castings work well too. You can find either at a gardening store.” —Annie Huston, The Urban Nursery

“You don’t need to feed your plant during the winter.

I recommend beginning in March, when you see new leaves emerging from the stems. Sprinkling organic fertilizer on top of the soil or even mixing it into the top layer a bit every month works well.” —Huston

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I T ’S GROW T IME

HOLD ME TIGHT A quick primer on planters, plus some local picks.

WATERTIGHT WONDER

Drainage is important, but that doesn’t mean your pot must have holes in the bottom. Just keep the plant in a plastic container that does allow drainage and place the entire shebang into the vessel. Lift the plastic out and set it in a tray when it’s time to water.

Local Pick Be Goods Ceramics, begoodsceramics.com

You know your flower child is trying to tell you something—but what?

Victor Sosa-Meza of the Plant Room helps you decode its signals.

1

THE TIPS OF THE LEAVES ARE TURNING BROWN.

Crispy leaves usually mean your home isn’t humid enough. I’d get a nice humidifier to deal with the problem.

I don’t have a ton of space. Is there another option?

Your second-best option is going to be a pebble tray.

Take a large tray that’s as wide as the widest part of your plant. Add a layer of pebbles to the bottom, and set the potted plant atop them. Pour some water into the tray, but not so much that your plant is sitting in a puddle. Evaporated water particles add humidity.

Can’t I just mist them?

I don’t recommend it. It’s not as effective, and the droplets can catch and magnify the light, burning leaves with soft, fuzzy filaments on them.

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THE PLANT HAS A WEIRD FILM ON IT.

Is it dust? If so, that’s normal, but you should gently wipe it off with a cloth. Dust blocks sunlight and inhibits the leaves’ ability to photosynthesize. Or, if it’s time to water your plant, stick it in the tub and turn on the shower to lukewarm. The spray rinses the leaves and gives the plants a drink.

So…the film looks more white and cottony.

Sounds like you might have a fungus. Isolate the infected foliage from your other plants to prevent an outbreak. Trim and remove the infected leaves. Spray the entire plant with a fungicide product.

To treat root rot, remove the plant from its container and gently rinse or trim away any mushy roots before repotting.

3

THE PLANT HAS LONG, FLOPPY STEMS INSTEAD OF BEING FULL AND LUSH.

We call that “legginess,” and it’s pretty common. Are the vines getting enough sun?

If not, you’ll notice the long stems leaning toward the window. Just move it closer to the light source, and it should start to look fuller.

I gave it a go, but my plant is still leggy.

It’s probably time to prune it to promote new growth.

Take scissors to my baby?!

It’s OK! You can pinch the stem between your thumb and forefinger, just above the topmost node. The break in the stem stops growing, so the plant instinctively sends nutrients to either side of the node, creating more branches in the stem and making it look fuller.

HOLE IN ONE

Most horticulturists recommend using a vessel with holes in the bottom.

But if you love one that doesn’t allow for drainage (and don’t want to deal with the Russian nesting doll method above), the employees at Birdsall and Co. will drill a hole for you even if you didn’t buy it there, though you do have to purchase a plant.

Local Pick Bowen Pottery, bowenpottery.com BOTTOMS UP

Self-watering planters rely upon subirrigation, in which water is poured into a tray and the plant hovers just above it in a separate vessel. When the roots are thirsty, they reach down for a drink on their own, so there’s no risk of overwatering. Don’t forget to refill the tray when it dries out.

Local Pick Visit 5280.com for DIY instructions from a local source.

From top: Daniel Brenner; Courtesy of Be Goods Ceramics

TROUBLESHOOTING

I T ’S GROW T IME

PROPAGATION STATION

It’s common practice among collectors of rare plants to propagate (that is, breed) their best specimens, but even those who care for more common plants, such as pothos or ZZ plants, can learn the technique and expand their broods for free. Anna Bernhardt, co-owner of Overgrown Home—a one-year-old West Highland shop that uses a hydroponic system to display rare plants—helped us break down the process into three surprisingly easy steps.

STEP 1 CHOOSE A PLANT, preferably one with obvious stems or tendrils, and identify a node. “It’s the spot where a new leaf is beginning to emerge from an already established stem,” Bernhardt says. “It looks a bit like an elbow joint.”

USING A PAIR of sharp scissors, snip an inch to an inch and a half below the node.

Courtesy of Soona Studios

STEP 2

STEP 3

ALLOW THE STEM CUTTING to rest for at least 30 minutes. “You want the part you trimmed to form a sort of callus,” Bernhardt says. Otherwise, water may get into the wound and cause rot.

PLACE THE VESSEL in an area with bright, indirect light and change the water once a week.

You should see roots in two to four weeks.

SLIP THE CUTTING into a glass of water, fully submerging the node.

“Choose a vessel with a wide opening so you can later remove the cutting without breaking off roots,” Bernhardt says.

ONCE ROOTS have reached two to three inches long, repot them in new soil, if you desire. Otherwise, you can leave them in the water vessel and display them that way.

DON’T WANT TO PLAY BOTANIST? HERE’S A SHORTCUT.

Many plants can live permanently with their roots growing in water. Denver company Autumn Journey Design and Decor removes any guesswork by providing you with a cutting in a glass vase (pictured). All you need to do is change the water every other week, says owner Amber Johnson, and ensure the H₂O levels never sink below the roots. “Otherwise, they’ll dry out,” she says. From $18, autumn-journey.com m

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Daniel Fullmer inspects crops at his regenerative farm outside Durango.

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PARADISE Southwestern Colorado’s Mancos Valley had long been thought of as an agricultural promised land, seemingly resistant to the ravages of climate change. There had been dry years, of course.

But, along with acres and acres of crops, the blissful notion of relative immunity perished in 2021. BY JONATHAN THOMPSON P H O TO G R A P H Y B Y J E R E MY WA D E S H O C K L E Y

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test with FC places

form of drought, ditch-feeding streams running at about half of average flows, and irrigators receiving as little as five percent of their normal allotments, hundreds of farmers are in similar situations. Some observers of agriculture see the warming, drying climate—here and elsewhere—as an existential threat to the entire industry, one that has been an integral part of the region since long before white people colonized it in the late 1800s.

That may be the case, but right now Nolan is simply trying to save his small vegetable farm.

“Everything is compounding,” Nolan says. “Years ago I would say, ‘Hopefully it doesn’t hail’ or ‘I hope we don’t get an early frost.’ But the last few years—with the droughts, the heat, the fires, the grasshoppers— have felt downright apocalyptic at times.”

believed, one of the last best places to farm in an era of rising temperatures, crippling drought, and devastating pestilence. The gentle terrain, nestled among high mesas in the shadow of the La Plata Mountains’ 13,000-foot peaks, had endured a few drier-than-normal years, but it typically avoided the scorching summers and associated pests that plagued lower-elevation ag land in the Montezuma Valley to the west or the La Plata River drainage to the east. Even at 7,000 feet in elevation, an adequate number of frost-free days brought tomatoes and eggplants to fruition, with a little springtime help from a greenhouse. Best of all, and most important in the arid West, the Mancos Valley had long enjoyed relatively secure water, making this valley a sweet spot for growing myriad crops that ended up on Centennial State dinner tables.

In healthy snowpack years, water, climate, soil, and farmers work together to stitch the summertime Mancos Valley into a verdant quilt, replete with apple orchards scattered among alfalfa fields and hay-bale-lined pastures bordering rows of cabbage, broccoli, and squash. It can make for a positively idyllic scene.

That’s not how most folks would describe the valley in 2021. Over the past few years, worrisome trends that had been building in previous decades began colliding, resulting in what appears to be a critical inflection point. After 22 years of meager winters, increasingly monsoon-free summers, higher and higher temperatures, and swarms of crop-hungry grasshoppers, the valley’s lush blanket finally began to fray under the strain. While the patchwork still includes a square of green here and there, it is interspersed with dusty beige, burnt umber, and the brilliant purple of thistle blooms, the unmistakable symbol of a fallowed field.

So dire was the situation this year that Nolan, 40, and his life and business partner, Mindy Perkovich, 36, who moved Mountain Roots Produce to the Mancos Valley eight years ago, decided to end their season early. They shut down operations shortly after Labor Day and then jumped into off-site jobs to pay the bills. They aren’t the only ones: With the entire Western Slope experiencing some 84

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Credits Tk

When Mike Nolan started farming in southwestern Colorado a little more than a decade ago, the region’s agricultural community considered the Mancos Valley a utopia of sorts. It was, they

DROUGHT, EVEN ON A BIBLICAL SCALE, is not a new phenomenon in southwestern Colorado.

The dendrochronological record—the ecological story told by the rings of trees—reveals a string of exceptionally dry years during the mid-1100s. The lack of rainfall wreaked havoc among the Ancestral Puebloans who lived in the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde, adjacent to the Mancos Valley, and relied on direct precipitation to water their crops.

A subsequent multidecade megadrought a century after that may have, in part, prompted the ancient Pueblo people to pack up and migrate southward to the banks of the Rio Grande in New Mexico and the mesas in northeastern Arizona.

More than 750 years later, during the dramatically arid winter of 2001-’02, modern-day farmers in the Four Corners region began to comprehend the situation the Ancestral Puebloans faced. A cold season devoid of storms had left the area’s highest peaks bereft of snow. Spring runoff failed to materialize. Megafires broke out months before fire season normally arrived.

L O S I N G PA R A D I S E

As the forests burned, fields withered. Junior water rights holders were forced to shut off their ditches so senior holders could get their full shares, as water law decrees. Ranchers sold off thousands of head of cattle, and many crops simply died before the harvest. It was a devastating year, yet few longtime farmers gave up, because, historically, dry years tend to be followed by abundantly wet years.

This time, however, history did not repeat.

Drought conditions lingered for years. The dearth of precipitation wasn’t the only problem, though.

Temperatures also had been increasing. Warmth, combined with other factors like wind, can alter runoff, causing snow to dissolve early or even sublimate before it has a chance to melt, robbing the rivers and soil of valuable moisture. The effects were accumulating and manifesting, but often in ways people tended to overlook or explain away.

Overall soil moisture declined, beetles turned the forests brown, larger and more intense fires burned at higher elevations, radical temperature swings— due to extremely low humidity—killed fruit trees, and Lake Powell, which serves as a barometer of the region’s hydrologic health, continued to shrink.

Still, most southwestern Colorado summers since 2002 had felt fairly normal. Farmers generally had enough water, townsfolk were able to run

This spread, clockwise from left: Mindy Perkovich laments lost crops; a very low McPhee Reservoir; Mike Nolan with his trusty Farmall tractor

their sprinklers, and rafters could float local rivers without scraping bottom until early August. When Mike Nolan bought 13 acres of land in the Mancos Valley in 2013, he didn’t envision a future in which the ditches would run dry.

Maybe he should have. “We’re in a long, drawn-out drought period,” says Darrin Parmenter, the La Plata County director for the Colorado State University Extension Office, which advises and educates farmers and gardeners. In scientific terms, it’s actually a megadrought—a dry spell lasting at least two decades—much like the one that plagued the ancient Pueblo people nearly a millennium ago. Those historical droughts eventually subsided. Most climate models suggest our current situation will only worsen, since it is a result of, at least in part, ever-increasing levels of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere.

In fact, some climate scientists believe the term megadrought doesn’t adequately describe what’s happening in the West, because the definition implies an eventual course correction. These experts prefer the term “aridification,” which suggests the gradual change of a region from a wetter to a drier climate. If they are right, it appears that 2002 was really a harbinger of the new normal.

NOLAN LIKES TO JOKE THAT HE ATTENDED one of the nation’s premier agricultural universities—the University of California, Davis—yet majored in English literature. After graduating, the California native ended up working on a friend’s small, organic farm. He enjoyed it but knew nothing about the technical aspects of soil health or plant nutrition, so he enrolled in what was then known as the Farm & Garden Apprenticeship program at the University of California, Santa Cruz. After working on farms in California, New Mexico, North Carolina, and

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This spread, clockwise from above: Michael Vicenti, irrigation manager at the Ute Mountain Ute farm, surveys the fields; Hana Fullmer at Tierra Vida Farm; appealing to a higher power for precipitation

southwestern Colorado, Nolan started Mountain Roots Produce on leased land near Hesperus in 2010. Three seasons later, he moved his operation to land he purchased just south of Mancos.

Meanwhile, Perkovich was working an office job in Telluride in 2010 when she tried to sign up for a community-supported agriculture program and ended up interning on the farm instead. She fell in love with ag life, quit her job, and started her own farm outside of Ridgway. It was just a short drive away, at an agriculture conference in Montrose in 2015, that she met Nolan. Two years later, they moved in together, merged their businesses, and eased into a wellchoreographed division of labor. Their farm was profitable, allowing the two to earn a living from selling their crops.

Although they were relative newcomers to farming in the Mancos Valley, Nolan and Perkovich swiftly learned about the natural rhythms of the area. During normal winters, more than a foot of snow can blanket the fields at Mountain Roots Produce and surrounding farms, replenishing the soil moisture and turning the earth into boot-stealing muck. When the ground thaws, the couple plants potatoes, cabbage, carrots, and another couple of dozen varieties of vegetables by hand. In adjoining plastic-covered greenhouses they raise leafy greens and starters for heat-loving crops, such as tomatoes and peppers.

When the spring runoff gushes down from the mountains, Nolan uses water from ditches fed by the small but reliably robust Mancos River until the stream dwindles later in the season. At that point, water stored in Jackson Gulch Reservoir is piped to the property. Typically, the monsoon pattern arrives just as the water runs low, dumping air-cooling, crop-sustaining, and reservoir-replenishing rain nearly every afternoon.

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In the height of the growing season, Nolan’s lanky frame can be found atop a 60-year-old, faded red Farmall tractor, his face protected from the sun by a thick black beard and the tattered bill of a trucker’s cap. Perkovich, who has an easy smile and long brown hair that often spills out from under a straw hat, prunes and harvests tomatoes and makes the trip to Telluride once a week to deliver boxes to their community-supported agriculture subscribers and produce to a farm stand. After the couple merged their farms, they began hiring full-time employees; in 2020, they had two. They had been planning to bring on an additional farmhand and an intern for summer 2021. By mid-May, though, it was clear that wasn’t going to be possible—or necessary.

Although this past winter didn’t deliver much snow, it certainly didn’t foretell a devastating summer, says Parmenter, who has been advising area farmers from the CSU extension office for 14 years. Snow levels were slightly below average, a sign that streams would likely run at near-normal levels. But that simply didn’t happen. Melting snow was pilfered—evaporated by warm temperatures and wind or sucked up by soil depleted by two decades of dryness—before reaching reservoirs.

“The snowmelt just didn’t run off,” Parmenter says.

“Instead of going into the river, it was all used up

L O S I N G PA R A D I S E

recharging soil moisture. It has to go through that sponge before it gets to the water table.”

With no spring runoff to speak of and sustained low streamflow levels along the Western Slope, many reservoirs were already half empty at the beginning of the irrigating season. Ditch companies—founded to create efficient delivery systems of H2O in ag communities, they often own senior water rights and sell shares of those rights to farmers and ranchers—warned their shareholders to prepare for the worst. Ming and Garry Adams, who have a working farm on their Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch in McElmo Canyon southwest of Cortez, did just that. After 2018, the last really dry year, they cut back their cattle herd by two-thirds and otherwise scaled down production.

This past spring, the situation at their ranch looked similarly grim. “This year was a little bit unnerving, considering the stock ponds were empty come spring,” Garry says. “It was the worst drought we’ve seen in 16 years.”

Credits Tk

DRIVING AROUND MANCOS OR CORTEZ or McElmo Canyon in late May and early June, you couldn’t miss the signs. Scrawled on cardboard or painted on pieces of plywood and affixed to fences were the words “No Hay.” Alfalfa for hay is by far the biggest crop in Montezuma County and dominates irrigated acreage across the Interior West. It also needs an ample supply of water all summer. With about 90 percent of the Western United States in drought, the “No Hay” signs began to proliferate, showing up from Steamboat Springs to southern Arizona. The situation may have been most dire in Montezuma County, though.

The Mancos River had been reduced to a trickle

by June, and Jackson Gulch Reservoir was at about 40 percent capacity, according to Nolan, who is president of the Mancos Conservation District.

While irrigators could have drained the reservoir

to keep their ditches flowing, the Mancos Water Conservancy District’s elected board members were forced to make a difficult decision: to forsake their portions to keep water flowing from taps in the town of Mancos and in Mesa Verde National Park, both of which also rely on the reservoir.

The decision meant irrigators lost water in early to mid-June. This kind of transfer of water from farms to towns—sometimes voluntary, other times not— occurs across the West on varying scales. On Colorado’s Front Range, municipal water companies temporarily lease water from farmers during dry years and sometimes purchase water rights altogether, a practice called “buy and dry” that leads to permanently fallowed fields. Because of an official shortage declaration on the Colorado River made in August by the federal government, Arizona farmers who rely on the river’s water will mostly be cut off next year to allow Phoenix residents to continue to take showers.

The water rights attached to Nolan’s land date to the 1880s, but he knew the privileges afforded him by water law’s “first in time, first in right” credo wouldn’t be enough. After Nolan and Perkovich estimated the deleterious effect the lack of water would have on cash crops and calculated the grasshopper effect, they laid off their employees. “It was definitely one of the hardest things I’ve had to do,” Nolan says, “but it was smart as far as the financial preservation of the business goes.” They planted just one acre of crops instead of the usual six or seven.

Farmers in other parts of Montezuma County and in adjacent Dolores County—where the largest town is known as the Pinto Bean Capital of the World—rarely fared better. Those who irrigate get their water from the McPhee Reservoir on the Dolores River. Thanks to consistently paltry flows in the Dolores, though, McPhee’s surface level has fallen by some 15 feet over the past year. To keep the lake from drying out altogether, water managers have released virtually no water from the dam this year, leaving the river downstream an unboatable, stagnant, warm dribble that’s eviscerating fish populations.

The Ute Mountain Ute Tribe’s 7,700-acre agricultural operation in the southern part of Montezuma County is McPhee’s largest single irrigator. The Ute people, likely some of Colorado’s first residents, technically have the most senior water rights in the region, dating to 1868. Yet because those rights are for the Dolores River and the river outlet is 39 miles from its land, the tribe couldn’t put the water to beneficial use until McPhee and its canals were built in the 1980s—essentially giving the Utes a priority date more than 100 years later than it should be. As such, the tribe’s three-decade-old farm operation received little more than a spritz this past summer.

The operation normally runs 110 center-pivot sprinklers; this year, just eight showered the fields. While alfalfa farmers in the region typically get at least three cuttings of hay per year, the farm only got one from its top revenue-earning crop and had to lay off half of its employees. “We’ve had a few drought years since we got started in 1990,” says Simon Martinez, general manager of the Ute Mountain Ute Farm & Ranch Enterprise, “but nothing as drastic as this in terms of water cutbacks.”

Every farmer in the region is grappling with the drought and the heat, but the pain isn’t distributed equally. Farmers around Cortez who own shares of the Montezuma Valley Irrigation Company, which along with its predecessor has been diverting Dolores River water into hundreds of miles of canals and ditches since the 1890s, received about half of their allotted water. CONTINUED ON PAGE 110 OCTOBER 2021

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DINING GUIDE PRICE KEY

$

(Average Entrée)

U N D E R $ 10



$$

$ 11 T O $ 15



$$$

$ 16 T O $ 25



$$$$

Indicates a restaurant featured in 5280 for the first time (though not necessarily a restaurant that has just opened).

B $$

Overland / Barbecue This wood-fired Texas-style barbecue joint serves lip-smacking dishes, such as beef brisket, house-cured and smoked pastrami, pit beans, and farm slaw. Reservations not accepted.

2180 S. Delaware St., Lunch

American Elm

$$$$

Downtown / American This upscale LoDo restaurant offers a sleek atmosphere and beautifully composed plates with worldly flavors. Sample the roasted Icelandic cod or wagyu beef carpaccio.

Reservations accepted. 1550 17th St., Ste. 120, 720-904-6711. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

A AJ’s Pit Bar-B-Q

$$

Boulder / Pizza Expect perfect New York–style sourdough pies featuring inventive topping combinations at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage.

Reservations not accepted. 2675 13th St., Boulder 303-442-2032. Lunch, Dinner

Avelina Indicates inclusion in 5280’s 2019 list of Denver’s best restaurants; we did not release rankings in 2020 or 2021 due to COVID-19 disruptions and closures. These selections are at the discretion of 5280 editors and are subject to change.

Visit our online listings at 5280.com/ restaurants.

$ 26 A N D H I G H E R.

Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage

SYMBOL KEY

Want More Dining Options?

Bar Max

$$

Congress Park / Contemporary This European bistro offers a simple, curated menu. Pair the prosciutto, brie, and fig spread sandwich with a glass of prosecco. Reservations accepted. 2412 E. Colfax Ave., 303-333-0003. Dinner

$$

West Highland / American Elevated American fare and classic cocktails anchor the menu at this neighborhood spot. Order the rib-eye French dip.

Reservations accepted. 4132 W. 38th Ave., 720-749-3186. Dinner, Brunch

Angelo’s Taverna

$$

$$$$

Beckon

$$$$

RiNo / Contemporary Chef Duncan Holmes brings an elevated, intimate dining experience to Larimer Street. The seasonal menu changes frequently, and excellent, thoughtful wine pairings are available. Reservations required. 2843 Larimer St., 303-749-0020. Dinner Big Mac & Little Lu’s

$$$

Westminster / Seafood Big Mac & Little Lu’s brings the Florida beaches to the Centennial State with carefully sourced seafood and thoughtfully paired beverages. Go for one of four po’ boy sandwiches or the mussels and fries. Reservations accepted for parties of eight or more. 2851 E. 120th Ave., Westminster, 303-404-2722. Lunch, Dinner

Blackbelly

$$$

$

$$$

Boulder / American Chef Hosea Rosenberg’s meaty menu focuses on charcuterie, small plates, and daily butcher specials. Try the crispy pig ears with red pepper jelly. Check out the butcher shop and grab-and-go market, Blackbelly Butcher, located next door. Reservations accepted. 1606 Conestoga St., 303-247-1000. Dinner

$$

Ash’Kara

$$$

Highland / Middle Eastern Chef Daniel Asher offers a playful take on Middle Eastern cuisine at this plant-bedecked eatery. Also try the Boulder location. Reservations accepted. 2005 W. 33rd Ave., 303-537-4407. Dinner, Brunch

OCTOBER 2021

SEAS THE DAY Since it opened in July 2020, restaurateur Richard Sandoval’s Toro Latin Kitchen & Lounge in Cherry Creek has been wowing diners with Central and South American dishes with international flair from executive chef Oscar Padilla. It’s the standout lineup of ceviche, however, that keeps us coming back to the stylish spot. Try the Amarillo, a variation in which fresh hamachi, aji amarillo chiles, mango, cucumber, and red onion are suspended in Toro’s signature citrusy leche de tigre marinade.

Blue Ocean

$$

Brass Tacks

$$

Hampden South / Chinese This Chinese restaurant, which also goes by the name Little Chengdu, specializes in noodles and hot pot. Try the Lanzhou pulled noodle. Reservations not accepted. 8101 E. Belleview Ave., 303-220-0577. Lunch, Dinner

Downtown / American This welcoming neighborhood bar and eatery offers sandwiches, snacks, and shareable family meals alongside beer, wine, and custom cocktails. Reservations not accepted.

1526 Blake St. Lunch, Dinner

Sarah Banks

Boulder / Mediterranean Sip house-made chai tea while sampling Middle Eastern delights—such as hummus, shawarma wraps, and baba ghanoush—in this charming, sun-filled lunch spot.

Reservations not accepted. 1634 Walnut St., 720-242-8623. Breakfast, Lunch

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Barolo Grill

Cherry Creek / Italian Dedication to authenticity translates to the food and extensive wine menu at this elegant eatery, which is focused on the cuisines of northern Italy’s Tuscany and Piedmont regions.

Reservations accepted. 3030 E. Sixth Ave., 303-393-1040. Dinner

Ballpark / American This spot’s unusual menu includes rave-worthy dogs in adventurous flavors (think: ostrich sausage and elk jalapeño). Toppings include combinations like wasabi aioli, caramelized apples, and shaved Irish cheddar.

Reservations not accepted. 2148 Larimer St., 720-746-9355. Lunch, Dinner

Aurora / American Caroline Glover brings a warm dining experience to Stanley Marketplace with Annette. Enjoy a family-style menu featuring salads, toasts, and wood-grilled fare. Reservations accepted. Stanley Marketplace, 2501 Dallas St., Ste. 108, Aurora, 720-710-9975. Dinner, Brunch Arabesque

$$

RiNo / Spanish This trendy wine bar specializes in Spanish wine and food. Try the paella mariscos.

Reservations accepted. 2900 Larimer St., 303-816-3300. Dinner, Brunch

Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs

Speer / Italian This neighborhood nook dishes up tasty grilled oysters as well as pastas and pizzas.

Also try the Littleton location. Reservations not accepted. 620 E. Sixth Ave., 303-744-3366.

Lunch, Dinner Annette

Barcelona Wine Bar

DINING GUIDE British Bulldog Pub

$$

Five Points / Pub This neighborhood pub serves up a mélange of fare—from English shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to Pakistani curries and allAmerican burgers in a casual setting. Reservations not accepted. 2052 Stout St., 303-295-7974.

Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

C Cafe Brazil

$$$

Cuba Cuba Cafe & Bar

$$$

$$

Boulder / Japanese Edwin Zoe offers ramen featuring scratch-made noodles and flavorpacked broths. Reservations not accepted. 2014 10th St., 720-580-1100. Lunch, Dinner

Chook

$

Capitol Hill / American This meat-free zone features pizza, vegan pastries, and a full bar.

Reservations not accepted. 206 E. 13th Ave., 303-831-6443. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Comal Heritage Food Incubator

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$$

Congress Park / Korean Enjoy bold Korean flavors at this Congress Park eatery. Order the spicy pork bulgogi or try the bibimbap. Multiple locations.

Reservations accepted. 827 Colorado Blvd., 720-639-9986. Lunch, Dinner

Daughter Thai Kitchen & Bar

$$$$

Highland / Thai This upscale restaurant serves beautifully plated dishes and inventive cocktails with an elegant ambience to match. Reservations accepted. 1700 Platte St., Ste. 140, 720-6674652. Lunch, Dinner

$$

$

$$

RiNo / Italian One thing you can count on at Alexander Figura, Spencer White, and Lulu Clair’s fast-casual Italian eatery: perfect pasta. Try the cacio e pepe or the squid ink cavatelli with seafood. The house-made sourdough is heavenly.

Reservations accepted for parties of eight or more.

3264 Larimer St., 303-562-1965. Dinner

$$

$$

Downtown / Seafood This Union Station speakeasy overlooks the Great Hall. Pair luxurious bites, including wagyu steak tartare, with your cocktail.

Reservations recommended. Union Station,1701 Wynkoop St., 720-460-3738. Dinner

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Dae Gee

Highland / American This restaurant, bar, convenience store, and market serves elevated deli fare in an eclectic setting. Try the rolled focaccia sandwiches. Reservations not accepted. 1575 Boulder St., Unit A, 303-537-5323. Lunch, Dinner

Globeville / International You’ll find delicious family recipes from Latin America and Syria at this restaurant, which has a rotating menu and provides job training to local women. Reservations not accepted. 3455 Ringsby Ct., Ste. 105, 303-292-0770. Lunch The Cooper Lounge

D

Dimestore Delibar

Platt Park / Australian Chook specializes in Australian-style, charcoal-grilled rotisserie chicken and fresh veggie sides. Order the charred broccoli salad. Also try the Hale location. Reservations not accepted. 1300 S. Pearl St., 303-282-8399.

Lunch, Dinner

City, O’ City

$$$

Golden Triangle / Latin American Don’t miss the mojitos at Denver’s authentic Cuban restaurant.

Multiple locations. Reservations accepted Monday–Thursday for parties of six or more. 1173 Delaware St., 303-605-2822. Dinner

Highland / American The brick-and-mortar location of the popular food truck and former Avanti food stall serves up sandwiches, salads, and more starring beer-battered fried chicken.

Don’t miss the hot chicken tacos. Also try the Westminster location. Reservations not accepted. 3618 Tejon St., 720-710-6620. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Chimera Ramen

$$

Westminster / Polish Traditional dishes are on the menu at this family-owned spot. Try the placki (fried potato and onion pancakes). Reservations accepted. 8121 W. 94th Ave., Westminster, 303-484-9388. Lunch, Dinner

Central Park / Italian At this restaurant, chef Elise Wiggins offers rustic, wood-fired Italian fare from a sprawling chef’s counter. Choose between grilled oysters, seasonal pizzas, fresh pastas, and more.

Reservations accepted. 10195 E. 29th Dr., Ste. 110, 303-645-3779. Dinner Chicken Rebel

$$$$

Cracovia

Berkeley / Latin American This colorful South American restaurant specializes in seafood and shellfish and is great for those with dietary restrictions. Reservations accepted. 4408 Lowell Blvd., 303-480-1877. Lunch, Dinner Cattivella

Corrida

Boulder / Spanish Housed on the rooftop level of the Pearl West building, this elegant Spanish steak house offers stunning Flatiron views and fabulous cocktails and wines. Splurge on the Japanese wagyu or opt for a locally sourced steak. Reservations accepted. 1023 Walnut St., Ste. 400, Boulder, 303-444-1333. Dinner, Brunch

Dio Mio

$$

Dos Santos

$$$

Duo Restaurant

$$$

City Park West / Mexican The menu at this modern taqueria features light, seafood-centric dishes, like a beer-battered fish taco. Reservations not accepted. 1475 E. 17th Ave., 303-386-3509.

Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Highland / Contemporary Stephanie Bonin and Keith Arnold capture the essence of the neighborhood restaurant: simple food, a low-key ambience, and the hum of neighbors trading stories. The seasonal cuisine constantly surprises, and dessert is worth a visit in itself. Reservations accepted. 2413 W. 32nd Ave., 303-477-4141. Dinner, Brunch

DINING GUIDE

E

The Empress

El Jefe

$$

Sunnyside / Mexican Farm-to-table Mexican fare will lure you to this welcoming Sunnyside haunt.

Pair a house margarita with the four-cheese queso dip, and don’t miss the organic mushroom tacos or the butcher steak fajitas. Reservations accepted.

2450 W. 44th Ave., 720-389-7615. Dinner

El Taco de Mexico

$

El Tepehuan

$

Lincoln Park / Mexican This Denver favorite serves Mexican food with an emphasis on authenticity. Try the chile relleno burrito. Reservations not accepted.

714 Santa Fe Dr., 303-623-3926. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Englewood / Mexican The team behind this relocated Englewood restaurant has been serving its brand of authentic and affordable Mexican food for more than 40 years. Stop by for the huevos rancheros or carne asada. Reservations accepted.

3495 S. Broadway, Englewood, 303-781-0243.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Ellyngton’s

$$$$

Downtown / American Located in the Brown Palace Hotel, this is the home of Denver’s power meal. Indulge in the lavish brunch on Sundays.

Reservations accepted. 321 17th St., 303-2973111. Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch

$$

Valverde / Asian This neighborhood favorite serves Cantonese food, specializing in dim sum.

Reservations accepted. 2825 W. Alameda Ave., 303-922-2822. Lunch, Dinner

F Federales

$

G

$$$$

Golden Triangle / American Located inside the Art, a Hotel, Fire Restaurant serves contemporary American dishes made with locally sourced ingredients, including a Colorado lamb chop.

Reservations accepted. 1201 Broadway, 720-709-4431. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Gold Point

$$

GQue BBQ

$$

RiNo / American This hip hangout serves craft cocktails and light fare, including sandwiches and charcuterie boards. Reservations not accepted.

3126 Larimer St., 720-445-9691. Dinner

Westminster / Barbecue This fast-casual joint serves hickory-smoked pork, brisket, chicken wings, ribs, and more. Order the jalapeño-cheddar sausage. Also try the Lone Tree location. Reservations not accepted. 5120 W. 120th Ave., Westminster, 303-379-9205. Lunch, Dinner

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Boulder / Italian Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson and master sommelier Bobby Stuckey’s fine-dining mecca has racked up scores of accolades over the years (including nods from the James Beard Foundation). The elegant Friulano cuisine always wows.

Reservations accepted. 1738 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-442-6966. Dinner

Escape to Enchantment

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$

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RiNo / Global The indoor bar at this spot serves a wide selection of cocktails, while food trucks outside offer a diverse variety of bites, from fried chicken sandwiches to Puerto Rican fare. 2927 Larimer St., 303-353-2340. Dinner

Fire Restaurant

Central Park / Breakfast This charming a.m. spot offers eats with Southern flair. Start your morning off right with the warm beignets. Reservations not accepted. 2893 Roslyn St., 303-388-8299.

Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch Frasca Food and Wine

RiNo / Mexican The first Colorado outpost of the popular Chicago spot serves tacos and tequila. Try the citrusy pork and pineapple or the mushroom tacos. Wash everything down with a refreshing tequila rosé or spicy green-chile-infused margarita.

Reservations accepted. 2901 Larimer St., 303-317-6262. Dinner Finn’s Manor

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DINING GUIDE Green Russell

$$

Downtown / Pub This chef-driven cocktail bar offers a variety of small plates and libations. Reservations not accepted. 1422 Larimer St., 303-8936505. Dinner

Gyu-Kaku Japanese BBQ Dining

H Stapleton / American Prolific Denver chef Troy Guard takes on the breakfast joint with Hashtag.

Try the lamb neck eggs Benedict or the sea salt chocolate chip hot cake. Reservations not accepted. 10155 E. 29th Dr., 303-996-9985.

Breakfast, Brunch

Hasu Sushi & Grill

$$$

Izakaya Den

J

I Jamaican Grille

Il Porcellino Salumi

$$

India’s Restaurant

$$$

Berkeley / Deli This market and deli strives to provide the highest quality, locally raised cured meats in Colorado. Pick a selection to take with you, or enjoy a fresh salumi platter or sandwich in-house. Reservations not accepted. 4334 W. 41st Ave., 303-477-3206. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

$$

Hampden / Indian This spot serves traditional fare, including flavorful dishes like tandoori chicken. Be sure to try the cinnamon bread pudding or the pistachio kulfi ice cream. Reservations accepted. 8921 E. Hampden Ave., 303-755-4284. Lunch, Dinner

$$$

Cherry Creek / Asian Try the aptly named Amazing Roll: chopped fatty tuna, cucumber, and scallion on the inside; avocado, crispy kani, eel, and special sauce on the outside. Reservations accepted. 250 Steele St., Ste. 104, 303-7229968. Lunch, Dinner

Ivy on 7th

$$

Platt Park / Japanese Ultrafresh sushi, sashimi, and creative small plates are on the menu at this local favorite. Reservations accepted. 1487-A S. Pearl St., 303-777-0691. Lunch, Dinner

$$$

Downtown / Japanese This Japanese-based chain boasts table-centered grills on which diners cook proteins like Harami skirt steak. There are also noodles and rice dishes, and appetizers such as tuna poke nachos. Reservations required. 1998 18th St., 720-726-4068. Lunch, Dinner

Hashtag

Hop Alley

RiNo / Chinese From Tommy Lee of Uncle, this neighborhood hangout serves dishes rooted in Chinese tradition with a touch of distinctive flair. Try the dan dan mian. Reservations accepted. 3500 Larimer St., 720-379-8340. Dinner

$$

Lincoln Park / Jamaican This family-owned Jamaican restaurant serves classic Caribbean-centric dishes like jerk chicken, fried plantains, and rice and peas, accompanied by a menu of rum-infused cocktails. Also try the Jamaican Mini Grille and International Jerk Market in Lakewood. Reservations accepted. 709 W. 8th Ave., 303-623-0013.

Lunch, Dinner

Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar

$$$

Downtown / Seafood Enjoy sustainable seafood in an upbeat atmosphere at this Union Station spot.

Specialties include the raw oyster bar and seasonally composed plates. Multiple locations.

Reservations accepted. 1539 17th St., 303-2925767. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

$$

Speer / American This eatery serves seasonal, European-inspired brunch and lunch dishes. Try the gluten-free lemon and ricotta pancakes with blueberries. Reservations accepted. 410 E. 7th Ave., 720-828-8180. Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch

Jerusalem Restaurant

University / Middle Eastern You can’t beat this spot’s tasty, affordable, and traditional Middle Eastern fare. Reservations accepted. 1890 E. Evans Ave., 303-777-8828. Lunch, Dinner

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DINING GUIDE

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Karma Asian

$$

Katsu Ramen

$$

Westwood / Mexican Enjoy plates of mole and enchiladas verdes, as well as a menu of almost 30 different juices and smoothies, in a space decorated with the art of Frida Kahlo. Reservations accepted. 3735 Morrison Rd., 303-936-0758.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

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Speer / Asian Go out to this trendy Asian eatery for a variety of Asian tapas (such as spicy edamame), or get more bang for your buck with the Thai bang bang chicken and shrimp. Reservations not accepted. 22 S. Broadway, 303-871-0167. Lunch, Dinner

Aurora / Japanese Satisfy a ramen craving with one of the traditional styles offered at this cozy spot.

Get the most out of your dollar with a combo meal, featuring your choice of ramen plus gyoza and a rice bowl. Reservations not accepted. 1930 S. Havana St., Aurora, 303-751-2222. Lunch, Dinner

Kitchen Table BBQ

$$$

Kobe An

$$$

Congress Park / Barbecue This Kentucky and South Carolina–style barbecue spot located inside of Goosetown Tavern serves up some tasty meat plates, from sliced brisket to bison jalapeño cheddar sausage. Be sure to order a basket of the house-made cornbread. Reservations not accepted. 3242 E. Colfax Ave., 303-399-9703.

Lunch, Dinner

Cherry Creek / Asian Everything is traditional at this Japanese restaurant, including the seating. The menu features Japanese favorites, such as tempura, gyoza, and yakisoba. Reservations accepted. 231 Milwaukee St., 303-989-5907. Lunch, Dinner

L Le French

$$

Southmoor Park / French This chic Belleview Station bistro, owned by French-Senegalese sisters, transports diners to France via pastries and Parisian cuisine. Ring in cocktail hour with wine and beverages courtesy of an afternoon cart service.

Reservations accepted. 4901 S. Newport St., 720-710-8963. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch LeRoux

$$$$

Downtown / French Lon Symensma’s upscale, European-inspired eatery features tableside preparations and a roving cheese cart. Don’t miss the Paris-Brest dessert. Reservations accepted.

1555 Blake St., Ste. 102, 720-845-1673. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch Photo by David Lauer

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Little Anita’s New Mexican Food

$

Virginia Village / Latin American This spot is known for its great New Mexican fare. The breakfast burritos are divine. Multiple locations.

Reservations not accepted. 1550 S. Colorado Blvd. #103, 303-691-3337. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

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$$

Villa Park / Mexican Enjoy fresh, authentic Mexican food cooked in an open kitchen. Order the alambre—Mexican stir-fry with your choice of tortilla, meat, cheese, and vegetables. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 720 Sheridan Blvd., 303-573-1617. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Luca

$$$$

Capitol Hill / Italian Convivial hospitality and classic Italian dishes greet you at this spot. Don’t miss the house-made burrata cheese. Reservations accepted. 711 Grant St., 303-832-6600. Dinner

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Speer / Breakfast Lucile’s offers authentic Cajun and Creole-style breakfasts and lunches with great service. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 275 S. Logan St., 303-282-6258.

Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch

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Cherry Creek / Mexican Enjoy an extensive list of fine tequilas, and don’t forget to order the sumptuous tacos al pastor. Also try the Union Station location. Reservations accepted. 2817 E. 3rd Ave., 303-333-1567. Lunch, Dinner

Makizushico

$$$

Littleton / Japanese Fresh fish is flown in daily from coastlines around the world for Makizushico’s menu of sushi, sashimi, and a variety of hot and cold Japanese-style small plates. Try the omakase.

Reservations accepted. 5950 S. Platte Canyon Rd., Littleton, 720-739-7777. Lunch, Dinner

Mas Kaos

$

Masalaa

$$

Berkeley / International Mexican meets Italian in this hybrid between two South Pearl favorites, Kaos Pizzeria and Uno Mas Taqueria y Cantina. Reservations accepted. 4528 Tennyson St., 720-6382100. Lunch, Dinner

Aurora / Indian A vegetarian’s heaven, Masalaa has delicious Southern Indian cuisine. Don’t miss the katrika masala with eggplant or the mirchi ka salan new, a spicy dish with peanuts and coconut.

Reservations accepted. 3140 S. Parker Rd., Aurora, 303-755-6272. Lunch, Dinner

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Downtown / New American Award-winning chef Alex Seidel offer upscale, contemporary farm-totable fare, including pasta dishes and family-style shared plates for the table. Mercantile also features counter-service dining for breakfast and lunch, as well as a marketplace of locally sourced foodstuffs. Reservations accepted for dinner. Union Station, 1701 Wynkoop St., Ste. 155, 720-4603733. Lunch, Dinner

$$$

Five Points / Contemporary Enjoy live music and plenty of vegetarian options, as well as pasta dishes, Colorado fish, and grass-fed bison, lamb, and beef. Reservations accepted. 2199 California St., 303-294-9281. Dinner, Brunch

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Baker / American Located inside Trve Brewing Co., this spot serves fiery variations of hot chicken, including green chile, Nashville hot, and a scorching “flammable solid” (the highest heat level).

Reservations not accepted. 227 Broadway, #101, 303-357-1141. Dinner

N Noble Riot

$$

RiNo / American Find charcuterie boards, fried chicken, and other picnic-ready fare at this sommelier-operated natural wine bar. Reservations accepted. 1336 27th St., 303-993-5330. Dinner

North County

$$$

Lowry Field / Mexican With a beach bar atmosphere in a landlocked state, this San Diego–inspired taqueria boasts a daily catch of grilled fish tacos and a bar full of tequila libations and spiked sodas batched and bottled in-house.

Reservations not accepted. 94 Rampart Way, 720-532-0106. Dinner

Northside Eatery & Market

$$

Highland / Seasonal This all-day eatery, bar, and market has a focus on local sourcing and seasonality. Try the Nashville-style hot chicken sandwich.

Reservations not accepted. 1691 Central St., 303-993-5599. Breakfast, Dinner, Lunch

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Olive & Finch

$$

Downtown / Seafood A perfect marriage between land and sea, this supper club offers steak house dining and fresh fish in one. Reservations recommended. 1465 Larimer St., 303-825-3663.

Lunch, Dinner

Lowry Field / American Nosh on American staples like Maryland crab cakes, a prime rib French dip, and the juicy Big Boy bacon burger at this neighborhood dining room and bar, which is inspired by the military legacy of the Lowry Air Force Base. Reservations accepted. 84 Rampart Way, 303-284-0714. Dinner

City Park West / International Discover wholesome, inspired meals at this restaurant, bakery, and juice bar, where you’ll find a full coffee bar, artisan sandwiches, hearty soups, tasty salads, housemade pastries, and daily happy hour specials. Also try the location in Cherry Creek. Reservations not accepted. 1552 E. 17th Ave., 303-832-8663.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

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City Park West / Contemporary This eatery does early-day dining justice. Pair the bacon fried rice with house-made bone broth, Vietnamese iced coffee, or a local IPA. Reservations not accepted.

1420 E. 18th Ave., 303-954-0877. Breakfast, Dinner, Brunch

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DINING GUIDE Osaka’s

$$

Boulder / Japanese Enjoy Japanese comfort food at this Boulder restaurant. Try one of the signature Osaka Burgers, which subs a savory Japanese pancake for the traditional bun. Reservations accepted. 2460 Canyon Blvd., Boulder, 720-3989115. Lunch, Dinner

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$

Littleton / Mexican Sip on more than 100 varieties mezcal and snack on shrimp and mango ceviche at this sultry bar in Historic Downtown Littleton.

Reservations accepted. 2609 W. Main Street, Littleton, 720-245-0195. Lunch, Dinner

Panzano

$$$$

Downtown / Italian Grab a seat at the exhibition kitchen and enjoy rustic northern Italian cuisine.

Reservations accepted. 909 17th St., 303-2963525. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

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Park & Co.

$

Park Burger

$

Uptown Area / American This casual tavern serves sandwiches and salads but specializes in gourmet burgers made with all-natural Harris Ranch beef. Try the El Chilango burger. Reservations not accepted. 439 E. 17th Ave., 720-328-6732. Lunch, Dinner

Platt Park / American This neighborhood eatery serves up top-notch burgers, such as the Croque, topped with Swiss, a fried egg, and a slice of ham.

Add a milkshake or root beer float. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 1890 S. Pearl St., 720-242-9951. Lunch, Dinner

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The Pig & the Sprout

$$

Downtown / American Tucked behind Union Station, this dichotomous eatery offers something for everyone. Order the sliced brisket with grilled scallions from the Pig side of the menu, or opt for lighter fare, such as a fresh crudité platter, from the Sprout side. Reservations accepted. 1900 Chestnut Place, 720-535-9719. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Pizza Republica

$$$

Greenwood Village / Pizza This neighborhood favorite serves delicious Italian fare made from scratch. Try a starter from the antipasti menu, like Italian crab cakes or mussels arrabiata. Reservations accepted. 5375 Landmark Pl., Greenwood Village, 720-489-2030. Lunch, Dinner

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RiNo / American Grab a slice of avocado toast and a market salad (both made with ingredients from local farms) to pair with your Huckleberry Roasters espresso at this bright cafe. Reservations not accepted. 2500 Larimer St., Unit 103, 720-549-0622. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Potager

$

$$$

Capitol Hill / Contemporary This family-owned restaurant specializes in fresh, seasonal food. The menu changes once a month. Dine in the back garden. Reservations not accepted. 1109 N. Ogden St., 303-832-5788. Dinner

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DINING GUIDE

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Q Q House

Run for the Roses

$$$

City Park / Chinese Enjoy a modern take on Chinese cuisine executed by chef Christopher Lin, an alum of Momofuku in New York City. Try the braised pork rice. Reservations accepted. 3421 E. Colfax Ave., 720-729-8887. Dinner Que Bueno Suerte

R Recess Beer Garden

$$

Highland / American Located in the heart of the LoHi neighborhood, this spot offers an oasis to sample the 25 local and international cold brews on tap. Reservations not accepted. 2715 17th St., 720-638-0020. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch Reggae Pot Jamaican Grill

$$

Centennial / Caribbean Montego Bay native Tamara Nisbeth crafts traditional Jamaican specialties like ackee and saltfish, stewed oxtails, and jerk chicken, alongside sides like plantains and fried dumplings. Reservations not accepted. 7562 S. University Blvd., Unit C, Centennial, 303-9975623. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Rita’s Law

$$

Five Points / American This neighborhood spot serves up inventive cocktails, coffee, and light fare with a side of community. Reservations not accepted. 2209 Welton St., 720-465-9644.

Lunch, Dinner

Roaming Buffalo Bar-B-Que

$$

Rosedale / Barbecue House-smoked Colorado craft barbecue is the specialty at this laid-back joint. Innovative meats like bison short ribs and lamb shank are available by the pound. Reservations not accepted. 2387 S. Downing St., 303-722-2226. Lunch, Dinner

$$$

Highland / Contemporary Located in a refabbed 1950s service station, this hip restaurant serves globally inspired cuisine with a focus on veggies and sustainable meats. Order the lamb porterhouse. Also try the DIA location. Reservations accepted. 1600 W. 33rd Ave., 303-993-4200.

Dinner, Brunch

Rosetta Hall

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Platt Park / Latin American The menu at this vibrant restaurant offers familiar items like tacos and fajitas as well as upscale, regionally inspired Mexican fare. Try the camarones a la Veracruzana (pan-seared shrimp with black bean purée , shallots, and white wine). Reservations accepted. 1518 S. Pearl St., 720-642-7322. Dinner

Root Down

$$

Downtown / Contemporary You’ll find 52 classic cocktails and gourmet parlor snacks at this underground bar in the Dairy Block. Reservations accepted for parties of six or more. 1801 Blake St., 720-573-9155. Dinner

Safta

$$$

Salt & Grinder

$

RiNo / Mediterranean Acclaimed chef Alon Shaya brings his modern Israeli fare to Denver.

Start with the creamy hummus and pillowy woodoven pita before moving onto tabbouleh salad, charred cabbage, and halloumi. Reservations accepted. The Source Hotel & Market Hall, 3330 Brighton Blvd., 720-408-2444. Lunch, Dinner

Highland / Deli At this restaurant, chef Frank Bonanno takes on the deli. Expect house-cured meats, hand-crafted salads, breakfast, and jarred cocktails. Try the PB&J French toast. Reservations not accepted. 3609 W. 32nd Ave., 303-9454200. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Salt

$$$

Boulder / Contemporary Try the grass-fed, humanely pasture-raised steaks at this Pearl Street staple. Reservations accepted. 1047 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-444-7258. Lunch, Dinner

SAME Café

$

City Park West / Seasonal This relaxed lunch spot, short for So All May Eat, pairs pay-what-you-can pricing with an ever-changing menu. Name your price for dishes like soup and pizza. Reservations not accepted. 2023 E. Colfax Ave., 720-5306853. Lunch

Santo

$$$

Boulder / Southwestern Hosea Rosenberg’s second restaurant brings bold New Mexican flavors to Boulder. Dig into farm-to-table comfort food such as the green chile cheeseburger. Reservations accepted. 1265 Alpine Ave., Boulder, 303-442-6100. Breakfast, Dinner

Seoul Mandoo

$$

Ska Street Brewstillery

$$

Aurora / Korean This spot serves steamed and fried Korean dumplings that are made from scratch daily. Don’t miss the wang mandu (giant dumplings). Reservations not accepted. 2222 S. Havana St., Unit J, Aurora, 303-953-9590. Lunch, Dinner

Boulder / American This brewery-distillery hybrid from the team behind Durango’s Ska Brewing Co. and Palisade’s Peach Street Distillers offers nearly 30 beers on tap, craft cocktails, and a menu of elevated pub fare. Reservations accepted. 1600 38th St., Boulder, 720-510-9921. Dinner, Brunch

$$

Boulder / Global The tenants of Boulder’s first food hall include Amira, Shanghai Moon, Tierra, Petite Fleur, Amalfi, and more. Grab a seat on the cozy rooftop deck and enjoy a drink from one of the two bars. Reservations are accepted on the Crown Mezzanine. 1109 Walnut St., Boulder, 720-323-5509. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Snarf’s Sandwiches

$

Capitol Hill / American Since 1996, this spot has been serving made-to-order sandwiches on signature bread with premium ingredients, including their own blend of giardiniera. Multiple locations, including one in DIA. Reservations not accepted.

1003 E. 11th Ave., 303-832-9999. Lunch, Dinner

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DINING GUIDE

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Spuntino

$$$

Highland / Italian Enjoy the locally sourced menu at this Italian-inspired, husband-and-wife-owned spot. Try the seasonal pasta or any dish with Southern Indian influences. Don’t miss the house-made gelato for dessert. Reservations accepted. 2639 W. 32nd Ave., 303-433-0949. Dinner Steuben’s

$$

Uptown Area / American With food like housemade mac and cheese and fried chicken, plus retro booths, this restaurant makes the 1950s feel right around the corner. Don’t forget to grab dessert before you leave. Reservations accepted. 523 E. 17th Ave., 303-830-1001. Lunch, Dinner

Steve’s Snappin’ Dogs

City Park / American Delicious hot dogs with all the fixin’s served at a happy-to-please stand.

Reservations accepted for more than 15. 3525 E. Colfax Ave., 303-333-7627. Lunch, Dinner Super Mega Bien

$

$$$

T City Park / Mexican This taqueria offers a variety of Mexican specialties. Try the queso a la plancha taco made with griddled Cotija cheese, smashed avocado, and roasted tomatillo salsa. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 1514 York St., 720-475-1337.

Lunch, Dinner

$

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Downtown / Southern Nosh on re-imagined versions of down-home dishes, such as the signature honey-dusted fried chicken or bourbon peppercorn-glazed meatloaf with classic sides like collard greens. 1650 Wewatta St., 720-2740650. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

U Uchi Denver

$$$$

Curtis Park / Japanese James Beard Awardwinning chef Tyson Cole combines unexpected flavors for his unique take on Japanese food. Try the sake toro aburi or the foie gras sushi. Reservations accepted. 2500 Lawrence St., 303-4441922. Dinner

$$$

Downtown / Spanish James Beard Award– winning chef Jennifer Jasinski brings Iberian fare to Union Station. Reservations not accepted. Union Station, 1701 Wynkoop St., 303-534-1970. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch $$

Aurora / Chinese Handmade steamed and fried dumplings, along with a selection of Sichuan specialties, are on the menu at this family-owned restaurant. Reservations accepted. 12203 E. Iliff Ave., Unit D, Aurora, 303-755-8518. Lunch, Dinner

$$$$

Westminster / Mexican Chef-owner Jose Renteria serves tamales, street tacos, smothered breakfast burritos, and more at this snug spot.

Take home a jar of the homemade tomatillo salsa. 9960 Wadsworth Pkwy., Westminster, 720-605-1889. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Tocabe

$$

Highland / Seasonal As an offshoot of the Truffle Cheese Shop, it’s no surprise that a variety of cheese boards and fromage-focused small plates color the menu. Reservations not accepted. 2556 15th St., 303-455-9463. Dinner

Uncle Zoe’s Chinese Kitchen

Downtown / Italian The team behind Boulder’s Frasca Food and Wine offers the same attention to hospitality at this more casual Denver restaurant.

The charming space is home to dishes from across Italy and a deep wine list. Reservations accepted.

1889 16th St., 720-605-1889. Lunch, Dinner

Feel the Full Effect™

The Truffle Table

Ultreia

Tacos Tequila Whiskey

Tlaquesalsa

$$

Aurora / Korean This neighborhood spot specializes in Korean soups and stews, but also offers a variety of other options. Reservations accepted.

2353 S. Havana St., Unit D1, Aurora, 303-7512840. Lunch, Dinner

$$$

Highland / Japanese Enjoy Japanese fusion cuisine—including sushi combos, poke bowls, noodles, and much more—in a sleek, modern setting. Reservations accepted for lunch and dinner.

2401 15th St., Ste. 80, 303-433-7272. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Tavernetta

Tofu House

Tupelo Honey Southern Kitchen & Bar

RiNo / Latin American Chef Dana Rodriguez of Work & Class offers a combo of large-format items and Pan-Latin small plates, the latter served from roving dim-sum-style carts. Try the lamb barbacoa, served family style with consomme and tortillas.

Reservations not accepted. The Ramble Hotel, 1260 25th St., 720-269-4695. Dinner Sushi Sasa

and beans, lettuce, cheese, and salsas or the braised bison ribs. Also try the Greenwood Village location. 3536 W. 44th Ave., 720-524-8282.

Lunch, Dinner

Unravel Coffee

$

Virginia Village / Cafe House-roasted beans and high-tech tools lead to stellar espresso drinks at this Virginia Vale coffee shop. You can also enjoy toasts, grain bowls, salads, and smoothies. Reservations not accepted. 1441 S. Holly St., 303-884-2380. Breakfast, Lunch

$

V Vert Kitchen $

Berkeley / American Indigenous fare goes Chipotle-style at this quick-service restaurant. Try the fry bread taco loaded with beef, buffalo, or chicken,

$$

Washington Park West / French Salads and sandwiches (think: curry chicken or skirt steak with walnut mustard) dot the menu at this Europeaninfluenced cafe. Reservations not accepted. 704 S. Pearl St., 303-997-5941. Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch

The Spirit of Colorado

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Vital Root

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Berkeley / American Justin Cucci’s fourth eatery focuses on quick, healthy food. Grab a seat in the airy space and nosh creative, wholesome fare such as chilled carrot-ginger soup or a veggie dosa.

Reservations not accepted. 3915 Tennyson St., 303-474-4131. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Welton Street Cafe

$$

West of Surrender

$$$

Williams & Graham

$$$

Five Points / Southern Enjoy soul food with a dash of Caribbean flair at this charming Five Points cafe. Order the fried chicken or smothered pork chop with classic sides like red beans and rice, hushpuppies, or seasoned fries. 2736 Welton St., 303-296-6602. Lunch, Dinner

Downtown / New American This modern eatery in a historic space serves food and drink inspired by the American West. Reservations accepted. 501 16th St. Mall, Lunch, Dinner Highland / American Disguised as a bookstore, Sean Kenyon’s Denver speakeasy is one of the city’s best cocktail destinations. Sip a seasonal cocktail and nosh on small plates, such as roasted bone marrow with bacon jam. Reservations accepted. 3160 Tejon St., 303-997-8886. Dinner WingWok

Centennial / Korean This takeout- and deliveryonly spot serves Korean fried chicken wings, sandwiches, kimchi fries, and more. 7530 S. University Blvd., Centennial, 303-221-9433.

Lunch, Dinner The Wolf’s Tailor

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$$

Golden / Mexican This long-standing joint serves cooked-to-order burritos, tacos, quesadillas, and alambres (skillet dishes) made with recipes inspired

by Walter Meza’s childhood in Mexico. Reservations not accepted. 715 Washington Ave., Golden, 303-215-3436. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Y Yak and Yeti

$$

Yard House

$$$

Downtown / Fusion A fun and casual American eatery which features a center island bar and classic rock tunes. Try the porcini crusted halibut or the ahi crunchy salad. Also try the Lakewood location.

Reservations not accepted. 1555 Court Place, 303-572-9273. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Yazoo Barbeque Co.

$

Five Points / Barbecue This barbecue joint offers a Deep South menu, featuring slow-smoked pork ribs and brisket. Also try the Greenwood Village location. Reservations not accepted. 2150 Broadway, 303-296-3334. Lunch, Dinner

Z Zocalito Latin Bistro

$$$

Downtown / Latin American Formerly located in Aspen, chef/owner Michael Beary’s upscale Oaxacan eatery found a home in the heart of Denver. Try the pork tenderloin with red mole sauce. Reservations accepted. 999 18th St., Ste. 107, 970-920-1991. Lunch, Dinner

Zoe Ma Ma

$$$$

$

Highland / American Start your morning with hot drinks, fresh baked goods, and pastries. Or, stop in for a hearty sandwich at lunchtime. Reservations not accepted. 2418 W. 32nd Ave., 303-9990327. Breakfast, Lunch

Wynkoop Brewing Company

Exclusive Partner of CU Athletics

$

Sunnyside / Contemporary Chef Kelly Whitaker fuses Asian and Italian techniques and ingredients at this hip Sunnyside eatery. The results, such as 7X brisket braised in dashi and red wine and houseextruded mafaldine pasta with koji tomatoes, are unique and delicious. Reservations accepted.

4058 Tejon St., 720-456-6507. Dinner Wooden Spoon Cafe & Bakery

Xicamiti La Taquería

Westminster / Indian This local favorite serves traditional Indian and Nepalese cuisine. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 9000 Yukon St., Westminster, 303-426-1976. Lunch, Dinner

W

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Ballpark / American This is your place to catch the game and enjoy a variety of bar bites, from burgers and hot dogs to steak. Watch your favorite sports team while enjoying a draft beer and a plate of nachos, or catch a view of the city from the rooftop bar. Also try the Littleton location. Reservations accepted. 2015 Market St., 720-282-1555. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

$$

Downtown / Pub Enjoy fresh beer and pub favorites like burgers, nachos, and fried chicken at one of Denver’s original brewpubs. Reservations accepted.

1634 18th St., 303-297-2700. Lunch, Dinner

$

Downtown / Chinese This cozy counter-service spot offers Chinese home-style cooking. Order the Szechuan braised beef noodle soup, which features house-made noodles. Also try the Boulder location. Reservations not accepted. 1625 Wynkoop St., 303-545-6262. Lunch, Dinner

Zorba’s

$$

Congress Park / Greek Zorba’s has served American and Greek diner fare—gyros, burgers, salads, sandwiches, and classic breakfast dishes—in the Congress Park neighborhood since 1979. Don’t miss the huevos rancheros. Reservations not accepted. 2626 E. 12 Ave., 303-321-0091.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 These listings are in no way related to advertising in 5280. If

you find that a restaurant differs significantly from the information in its listing or your favorite restaurant is missing from the Dining Guide, please let us know. Write us at 5280 Publishing, Inc., 1675 Larimer St., Suite 675, Denver, CO 80202 or dining@5280.com.

The Denver Athletic Club

I N TH E B E G I NNI NG

ROOTED IN DENVER HISTORY COMMITTED TO INNOVATION A CLUB FOR YOUR WHOLE LIFE With the addition of a coworking space, members of The DAC will have everything they need to live, work, socialize and work out, all under one roof. The DAC is proud to continually evolve its offerings to meet the needs of its members.

Picture Denver in 1884: the state of Colorado was only eight years old. Wealth and population had boomed in the recent silver rush. Though still a dusty supply town for the miners out west, and not without its share of bawdy characters, Denver was the vibrant heart of the Rocky Mountain states.

And there, in the center of the city, stood the Denver Athletic Club.

From the beginning, The DAC helped its members discover a more fulfilling lifestyle with options for athletics, socializing and networking.

1 3 7 Y E A R S YO U NG Today, Denver looks very different from its boomtown roots. But The DAC remains A Club for Your Whole Life. It’s a place where members can find nourishment at every stage in life. Whether it’s the exceptional childcare, winning youth swim team, outstanding fitness facility, exemplary cuisine or robust social programming, The DAC contributes meaningfully to every member’s Denver experience.

A LWAY S I NNOVAT I N G

“After the office and home, The DAC has always been a ‘third place’ for our members—where they fulfill their fitness and social needs.

With coworking space now available, I have a feeling it may become simply the ‘second place.’”

— Rich Novelli, General Manager

LEARN MORE: DENVERATHLETICCLUB.ORG // 303-534-1211

Even before 2021, thousands of professionals were moving to Denver each month. Now, as the city emerges from the pandemic, a record number of residents are seeking something new from their Colorado experience: flexible alternatives for workspace.

The DAC, always committed to meeting the needs of its members, is excited to unveil a 6,700 square foot coworking space this fall. The space will be open 24 hours a day and included in members’ dues. With a blend of soft and hard seating, it will feature phone booths, meeting rooms and refreshments for the ultimate in luxury coworking.

LOSING PARADISE runs through Durango, had sufficient H2O. “Your location, the size of the reservoir, the size of the catch basin, and the seniority of the water rights,” Hana says, “can all play a big role in how much water you get.”

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 87

Their ditches were still flowing as of early August—a feat made possible by dredging the bottom of McPhee Reservoir to get the measly remains of water through the outtake—long after others had been shut off.

Even the Adamses, in McElmo Canyon, were able to escape the worst of the drought because they were able to lease water stored in a small reservoir near Cortez, which tided them over until an arroyo-filling monsoon arrived in mid-July.

Geography plays favorites, too. To the east of Montezuma County, La Plata County irrigators on the aptly dubbed Dryside of the county got even less water than they’re used to, which isn’t much, leaving nearly all the farmland brown. Those on the Florida River—such as Tierra Vida Farm, owned by Hana and Daniel Fullmer—had only a few weeks of irrigation water. Meanwhile, farmers who draw from the Animas River, which

IN MID-JUNE, Mountain Roots Produce’s fields are alive—with grasshoppers. One step into the straight rows and thousands of leggy, herbivorous insects leap at the vibration.

Mike Nolan sighs, knowing the crop-chewers, which have reproduced in droves thanks to a spate of mostly rain-free summers and relatively warm winters, are just another facet of aridification. Obviously worn down by circumstance, Nolan explains that the timing of the current crisis is especially cruel.

Last year, in the wake of the pandemic’s initial wave, desire for locally grown produce skyrocketed, making small-scale vegetable farming just a little more financially viable. “It was insane,” Nolan says. “It didn’t matter what you had, you could sell it.” Since then, new Colorado residents, many of them with disposable cash, have left Texas and California and flocked to towns like Mancos, Durango, and Telluride as part of the so-called Zoom Boom, driving up demand even further.

But the climatic conditions have made it almost impossible for farmers without secure water supplies to feed hungry customers and capitalize on the growing market. Meanwhile, the same Zoom Boom that’s fueling demand is significantly boosting already high property prices, making it virtually impossible for farmers—both novices and veterans—to purchase or even lease land, particularly in the most water-secure areas.

The same phenomenon is also putting pressure on financially strapped farmers to sell out for a hefty profit. “That is the problem,” says Hana, whose Tierra Vida communitysupported agriculture waitlist has quadrupled in the era of COVID-19. “Drought is hard to deal with, but more and more producers are saying the elephant in the room is land access. The next generation of farmers is getting priced out of the game.”

Nolan and Perkovich aren’t ready to cash out yet, but the prospect of another dry year is forcing them to reconsider their business model. They may not farm at all next year and get off-the-farm jobs instead. They’re also considering building a house on their property to rent long-term for extra income.

While it’s too early to tell what kinds of

October Beethoven v. Coldplay OCT 9 SAT 7:30

Brahms Symphony No. 1 conducted by Christopher Dragon

OCT 15-17 FRI-SAT 7:30 ✣ SUN 1:00

Halloween Spooktacular!

OCT 30 SAT 2:30

November Beethoven Symphony No. 7

NOV 5-7 FRI-SAT 7:30 ✣ SUN 1:00

Mission Mt. Mangart NOV 11 THU 7:00

Colorado Symphony Presents: Vienna Boys Choir in Concert

NOV 12 FRI 7:30

Prokofiev Piano Concerto No. 2 with Natasha Paremski NOV 19-21 FRI-SAT 7:30 ✣ SUN 1:00

PRESENTING SPONSOR

At Last – A Tribute to Etta James NOV 27 SAT 7:30

Drums of the World NOV 28 SUN 2:30

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OCT 2 2021 Carousel Ball Hyatt Regency Denver | 6:00 p.m.

Carousel Ball guests will enjoy dinner, silent and live auctions, and entertainment by REO Speedwagon (as previously announced). Award Honorees include Steve and Shelley Lucas & Julie and Dan Feiten, MD. Proceeds benefit the Children’s Diabetes Foundation and the Barbara Davis Center for Diabetes.

Information and tickets at childrensdiabetesfoundation.org/ event/2021cb.

OCT 8 - 17

OCT 15

Colorado Ballet Presents Giselle Ellie Caulkins Opera House Experience this romantic tragedy that continues to inspire audiences worldwide. Will the Wilis succeed in dancing Count Albrecht to death?

Will Giselle be able to save her true love? The stunningly skilled athletes of Colorado Ballet bring the beauty and heartbreak of Giselle to the stage.

Information and tickets at coloradoballet.org/Giselle.

Photo credit: Sarah Tryon and Yosvani Ramos by Rachel Neville

A Decade of Discovery: Clyfford Still in Denver Exhibition Opening Clyfford Still Museum | 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

The exhibition takes inspiration from the inaugural show and highlights some of the Museum’s most compelling revelations about the collection and its audiences discovered during the first decade.

Explore the first of three community-focused exhibitions during CSM’s tenth anniversary year.

Information and tickets at clyffordstillmuseum.org/tickets.

Photo credit: James Dewhirst

Follow @5280scene for a behind-the-scenes look at 5280 marketing.

OCT 21

NOV 6-14

The Women’s Foundation of Colorado’s

Annual Luncheon

Puccini’s Tosca Ellie Caulkins Opera House

A corrupt chief of police has a cruel ultimatum for Tosca, Rome’s most-celebrated prima donna.

She must submit to his lustful desires or trigger Colorado’s largest fundraising event on behalf of the execution of her beloved. Who will survive women and their families, featuring special guest this web of betrayal and revenge?

Robin Arzón - Peloton instructor and executive, Information and tickets at author, and ultramarathoner. operacolorado.org/tosca.

Information and tickets at wfco.org.

Colorado Convention Center or Virtual | 11:30 a.m.

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LOSING PARADISE losses the region’s ranchers and farmers will tally this year, they are likely to be substantial.

The 2002 drought resulted in a 75 percent drop in Montezuma County alfalfa production from the previous year, and dry bean production was cut in half. This year promises to be as bad or worse. The Ute Mountain Ute farm will sell less than a tenth of its usual amount of alfalfa hay, most of which goes to dairy farms in Texas. Other hay farmers are forecasting similar losses.

Scarcity also begets high prices. Livestock operators have to pay more for the hay they feed their cattle, forcing them to cull their herds. (Southwest Colorado’s cow population plummeted from 270,000 to 190,000 during the 2002 drought.) It’s more difficult to track the hit to small-scale vegetable producers and how that ripples through the economy, but it’s fair to say it’s been disruptive.

Parmenter laments the fact that it’s become challenging to rationalize dispensing

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the same advice he’s doled out for many years. His job, after all, has been to promote farming, growing produce, and the purchase of local food. He’s simply not sure what to say these days. “We’re going to have to grow food in places that have more water and are less extreme,” he says. “That has been the Mancos Valley for a long time.” The region’s most water-secure place these days is the fertile Animas Valley north of Durango, where exorbitant property values have made the land far more economical for growing houses than any sort of crop.

WITH MANY NEARBY FIELDS reduced to dust, the chocolate-cake-like texture of the Fullmers’ soil feels like a small, moist miracle. Thanks to years spent enriching the dirt through regenerative farming, Hana says Tierra Vida Farm was able to make it through the rest of the summer with only the water they stored in a small pond (for which they have historical storage rights), a remarkable feat considering their ditches fed by the Florida River and Lemon Reservoir stopped flowing in early summer. They use no synthetic soil additives, practice minimal till, do crop rotation to build up nutrients, and, most important, have 300 chickens that they rotate through their cover-crop beds to eat insects, break up the soil, and add nitrogen in the form of poop as they go. “That’s been a real game changer,” she says.

The result is soil with unusually high percentages of organic material, which better holds the limited amount of irrigation water and makes a more suitable environment for microbes and fungi. Fungi can reach out into the soil, find water, and “bring it back in and trade it with the plant in exchange for sugars the plant is getting from photosynthesis,” Hana says. “It’s a really beautiful relationship.”

The Fullmers’ experience suggests the situation in southwestern Colorado isn’t hopeless. Under the right conditions, some degree of adaptation is possible—but only if a farm receives some water. Parmenter advises small vegetable producers to shift high-value crops to drip-irrigation greenhouses and to focus more on growing during shoulder seasons, when it’s not so hot. He also says consumers can do their part by subscribing to community-supported agriculture programs before the season begins, “so if there is a drought or plague of grasshoppers you incur some of the risk with the farmer.”

By making the irrigation networks more efficient—piping ditches to stem the loss of billions of gallons each summer via evaporation and leakage—farmers could wring more out of the increasingly scarce water supply,

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says Jay Loschert, the education and outreach coordinator for the Montezuma Land Conservancy and its 83-acre Fozzie’s Farm north of Cortez. But converting the hundreds of miles of ditches just in Montezuma County would cost millions of dollars, most of which would be borne by cash-strapped farmers. (A helping hand could come from the federal infrastructure bill, which was being debated

by Congress at press time.) “There needs to be that political will,” Loschert says. “Farmers aren’t going to make those investments.”

The operators of Fozzie’s Farm have been trying another solution: embracing a biodiversity model. Fozzie’s Farm planted more than 30 woody plant species to improve biodiversity. Still, Fozzie’s has had decreased yields this year. Next year Loschert hopes to partner with a Navajo sheep producer who would pasture lambs on the farm, bringing in income and helping the land produce better.

In 2013, the Pacific Institute, a California nonprofit that focuses on water issues, published a report on agricultural water use in the Colorado River Basin. The authors found that by switching from alfalfa to, say, sorghum, farmers could keep their lands in agriculture while also saving water. And by practicing regulated deficiency irrigation—which amounts to putting crops on a water diet and irrigating at optimal times—alfalfa farmers across the Colorado River Basin could save 970,000 acre-feet of water per year (more than three times Nevada’s allotment from the river) while still getting healthy yields. Of course, none of that helps if there’s no water in the ditches at all.

These fixes are all fine, Loschert says, but in order to really tackle the problem, the entire system for managing Western water, along with the collective mindset—which has us “reliant on a fragile and over-appropriated resource,” he says—needs an overhaul. In other words, everyone needs to stop dwelling on this season’s impacts and think more long-term to try to mitigate the state’s new reality. “The impacts we’re feeling now are just the beginning,” Loschert says.

Even if that’s true and conditions get worse, Nolan says he plans to stick around the Mancos Valley, not because it’s safe from climate change—nowhere is—but because he knows the community will work together to get through the hard times. “The people of the Mancos Valley do a really damned good job of taking care of one another,” he says.

He pauses and then, with an upbeat lilt to his voice, adds, “It’s a great place to live.” m Jonathan Thompson is a freelance journalist whose grandparents once owned a farm in the Animas Valley. Email feedback to letters@5280.com.

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Featuring

COLORADO HOMES The property information herein is derived from various sources that may include, but not be limited to, county records and the Multiple Listing Service, and it may include approximations. Although the information is believed to be accurate, it is not warranted and you should not rely upon it without personal verification. Affiliated real estate agents are independent contractor sales associates, not employees. ©2021 Coldwell Banker. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker and the Coldwell Banker logos are trademarks of Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. The Coldwell Banker® System is comprised of company owned offices which are owned by a subsidiary of Realogy Brokerage Group LLC and franchised offices which are independently owned and operated. The Coldwell Banker System fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act.

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FORT COLLINS | $1,595,000 7,400 sq ft. home, 4-acres, and 4br/6ba. Panoramic mountain views.

Kitchen features granite counters, kitchen nook & separate dining.

Massive living room with fireplace. Continuous wraparound deck.

Finished basement. 1,200, 2 story sq ft. outbuilding.

ARVADA | $1,050,000 Custom 4br/3ba home is deeded w/private lake access. Remodeled chef’s kitchen w/quartz counters. Primary suite w/sitting room, office, 4 closets & private deck. Lower level offers a family room & newly remodeled bath. Recent exterior upgrades $100k+.

Christina Larson 970.443.4111 You.re.Home777@gmail.com | DiamondHomesACutAbove.com

Lynn Hodges 303.913.0166 lynn.hodges@coloradohomes.com | LynnHodgesCO.com

CENTENNIAL | Price Upon Request Amazing 4br/5ba home backs to South Suburban Golf Course boasting an open floor plan. Kitchen w/updated cabinets & Corian counters. Main floor master w/updated 5pc bath & walk-in closet.

Finished walk out basement w/wet bar & bedroom. 2-car garage.

DENVER | Price Upon Request Gorgeous 5br/4ba home boasts a private study, generous dining room, kitchen w/island & butler’s pantry, family room w/gas insert fireplace & built-in bookcases, primary bedroom suite w/dual closets & 5pc bathroom & full finished basement w/rec space.

Amy Metz 720.272.7337 amy.metz@coloradohomes.com | AmyMetz.cbintouch.com

AK Riley 720.289.2929 ak@kadenverhomes.com | KADenverHomes.com

DENVER | $925,000 Under Contract. 5br/2.5ba remodeled Victorian ranch. Kitchen w/SS appliances & 42” cabinetry. 3 beds and a full bath above. Basement w/master suite, family room, laundry, powder bath, and an additional bedroom. Complete w/fenced backyard & detached 2-car garage.

GOLDEN | Price Upon Request This 4 bedroom, 3 bath home provides impressive mountain views and a thoughtfully designed basement.

Dan D. Gerlock 720.326.8100 Dan@GerlockHomes.com | GerlockHomes.com

Soledad Tolnay 303.349.1043 maria.tolnay@coloradohomes.com | SoledadSellsHomes.com

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

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guiding you home since 1906

LARKSPUR | $850,000 This “Storybook Cottage” is tucked in the woods surrounded by beautiful English gardens. There are 3br/2ba on the main floor and a 4th bedroom w/bath in the basement. The outdoors provides fresh food grown from your greenhouse garden. Conclude with a two-car garage.

THORNTON | $825,000 Newman model offers 2,407 sqft of finished living area. Great room w/gas fireplace & kitchen w/espresso cabinets, granite counters, SS appliances & center island. Master suite w/tray ceiling, bath & walk-in closet. Patio w/magnificent mountain view!

Kimberly Ryan 303.523.8333 kim@buydenver.net | BuyDenver.net

Linda Gilbert 720.232.1990 linda.gilbert@coloradohomes.com | LindaGilbertHomes.com

AURORA | $819,000 Amazing 6br/5ba home featuring a large chef's kitchen w/upgraded "Colorado room," formal dining & a main floor bedroom w/bathroom.

Upstairs is a loft & a spacious master bedroom w/5pc bathroom & dual walk in closets. Finished walk out basement!

CASTLE ROCK | $799,000 4br/4ba home on over a one-third acre. Kitchen w/sleek modern backsplash, granite counters, stainless appliances and gas cooktop.

All bedrooms on the upper-level w/2 full baths and a loft. Complete w/a 3-car garage and a custom patio w/a fire pit.

The Simonis Group 303.905.5137 amber@thesimonisgroup.com | ambersimonis.cbintouch.com

Marcus Harris 720.217.8904 marcus.harris@coloradohomes.com | HarrisTeamRealEstate.com

DENVER | $765,000 SOLD in 1 day! 2-story brick upstairs/downstairs duplex in Country Club North. Complete w/a 1-car detached brick garage, a back patio and a fenced yard. Close to Chessman park, nearby shops, restaurants and Cherry Creek North.

Gail Wallace 303.903.5750 gailpwallace4@gmail.com | GailWallace.cbintouch.com

AURORA | $775,000 6br/4ba home. Great room w/fireplace. Kitchen w/an island, upgraded cabinets, slab granite countertops and SS appliances. Owner suite w/5-piece en-suite and walk-in closet. Finished basement w/media room, 3 bedrooms and 2 baths. Backs to a greenbelt.

The Rowley Group 303.841.1021 Info@therowleygroup.com | TheRowleyGroup.com

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AURORA | $775,000 5br/5ba home has an open floor plan that features a study, great room, kitchen w/newer stainless steel refrigerator, breakfast nook, backyard w/covered deck & custom fire pit, main floor master w/sitting room & en suite 5pc bath & finished basement.

CASTLE ROCK | $750,000 Opportunity to own a unique 14.75 acre parcel w/breathtaking views of the front range and valley. Zoned in the city with ability to build 5-8 residences. Private easement granted from the adjoining parcel for access. Opportunity to design driveway.

Kari Smith 303.324.2376 kari@denverhomesbykari.com | DenverHomesByKari.com

Colleen Huber 303.506.3302 colleen.huber@coloradohomes.com

FORT COLLINS | $744,900 RARE residential-detached home on a quiet cul-de-sac backing to open space & Cottonwood Glen Park! 3,788 sqft home feat. an open flow plan including a kitchen w/island & gas cooktop, formal sitting & dining room, living room w/fireplace, and private office.

CENTENNIAL | Price Upon Request Beautiful 4br/3ba home offers a living room, formal dining room, kitchen w/island, new appliances, pantry & open to family room.

Upstairs, the master suite w/walk-in closet & updated en-suite bathroom. Partially finished basement.

Andrew Almgren 970.217.9141 andrew.almgren@cbrealty.com | Andrew.Almgren.cbintouch.com

AK Riley 720.289.2929 ak@kadenverhomes.com | KADenverHomes.com

DENVER | Price Upon Request 4br/2ba home w/new floors and fresh interior paint. Enjoy raised garden beds, sprinklers and covered porch/patio. Complete w/a 1-car garage. This is your chance to live in a wonderful neighborhood close to schools, restaurants, shops, parks and more!

Kari Goddard 720.437.9755 kari.goddard@coloradohomes.com | KariGoddardHomes.com

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

BROOMFIELD | Price Upon Request 55+ Broomfield Community! 2br/2ba ranch home w/office, refinished wood floors, new carpeting, eat in kitchen w/gas stove & island & master bedroom w/high coffered ceiling & 5pc master bath. Amazing clubhouse w/fitness center, 2 pools & more.

Linda Gilbert 720.232.1990 Greg Gilbert 303.250.9007

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

guiding you home since 1906

PARKER | Price Upon Request Exceptional, move in ready 4br/4ba ranch. Hickory Hardwood Floors.

Formal dining room. Eat-in kitchen w/granite counters & SS appliances.

Living room w/gas fireplace. Master bedroom w/vaulted ceilings & 5pc bathroom & finished walk-out basement.

AURORA | $655,000 Pristine 4br/4ba home features an updated kitchen w/SS appliances & walk-in pantry, family room w/floor to ceiling windows, office, master bedroom w/updated bath & walk-in closet, finished walk out basement w/wood floors & fireplace & huge backyard.

Ashley Morrison 224.532.3483 ashley.morrison@cbrealty.com | MorrHomes.cbintouch.com

Sandy Benson 303.718.1175 sandy.benson@cbrealty.com | SandyBensonSellCOHomes.com

CASTLE ROCK | $650,000 Bright open floor plan features many builder upgrades.

Open living room w/stone fireplace. Kitchen w/island, gas cooktop w/SS appliances & double wall ovens. Main floor office. Loft & master bedroom w/bathroom. Low maintenance w/xeriscape features.

DENVER | $650,000 Newly renovated 2-level, 2br/2ba 1,388 sqft townhouse w/2-car garage. Rare End Unit. Gated Courtyard. New carpeting, refinished hardwood floors & new appliances. Primary Suite w/en suite bath & private balcony. Located in the heart of Capital Hill!

Amber Simonis 303.905.5137 amber@thesimonisgroup.com | AmberSimonis.cbintouch.com

Robb Green 303.885.2924 robb.green@coloradohomes.com | RobbGreen.cbintouch.com

LITTLETON | $639,999 Beautiful & well maintained 2br/2ba home. Open floorplan offers an office, kitchen w/eat-in area & unfinished basement. Back patio w/water feature & borders a common greenbelt & path. Grant Ranch offers a wonderful clubhouse, pool, marina & more.

ENGLEWOOD | $625,000 3br/2.5ba home. Living/dining room area with vaulted ceilings. Kitchen w/maple cabinets with tons of counterspace and opens to the family room w/a brick fireplace. Finished basement w/a family room area.

Complete w/mature trees & generous sized deck.

Amy Metz 720.272.7337 amy.metz@coloradohomes.com | AmyMetz.cbintouch.com

Jennifer Bub 303.253.4969 jennifer.bub@coloradohomes.com | JenniferBubRealEstate.com

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

PARKER | Price Upon Request Beautiful 3br/3ba home offers a main floor study, kitchen w/new quartz countertops, SS appliances & eat-in dining space, family room w/vaulted ceilings, fireplace & master suite w/tray ceilings, 5pc bathroom & walk-in closet. Unfinished basement.

FORT COLLINS | $625,000 3br/2ba farmhouse on nearly a 1/2 acre lot. Master suite w/an office space and a balcony. Enjoy the deck in your yard by the water feature and fish pond. Fully fenced and private yard backs to open pasture.

Complete w/oversized workshop and a garage.

AK Riley 720.289.2929 ak@kadenverhomes.com | KADenverHomes.com

Gus Bergs 970.308.4733 gusbergs@hotmail.com | TheKeyGroupRE.com

ESTES PARK | $625,000 3br/1.5ba ranch style home in Estes Park w/refinished wood floors and upgraded flooring throughout. There is 1-car detached garage and a new roof. Complete w/an enclosed backyard. Enjoy the wildlife and big, beautiful rock formation on the property.

LITTLETON | $620,000 Welcome to this perfectly located home with a large private backyard.

This recently updated home offers amazing entertainment spaces and beautiful mountain views from the master suite. The basement is complete with a full bath and fourth bedroom.

Jimmy Stewart 970.290.3755 jimmy@thekeygroupre.com | TheKeyGroupRE.com

Janessa Smith 720.400.6743 JanessaSmithRealtor@gmail.com | JanessaSellsColorado.com

ARVADA | $590,000 Gorgeous, brick walk out 5br/3ba ranch features a covered front porch, spacious back deck, living room w/lots of natural light, kitchen w/all new quartz counters, cabinets & SS appliances, dining area & finished basement w/flex & family room & more.

BROOMFIELD | $589,000 Fabulous renovated 5br/4ba home on a quiet cul de sac w/mature landscaping & views. Open floor plan w/stunning refinished hardwood floors & study. New flooring, sunroom, updated fireplace w/mosaic tile surround & a refurbished deck. Close to schools.

Amy Metz 720.272.7337 amy.metz@coloradohomes.com | AmyMetz.cbintouch.com

Lorri DeLaney 720.313.7437 delaneylorri@gmail.com | LorriSellsHomesColorado.com

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

guiding you home since 1906

AURORA | $580,000 Spacious, lovely ranch style 3br/3ba home in Saddle Rock Ridge features a formal dining room/living room area. Kitchen & family room are on the west side of the house. Renovated walkout basement w/bar area, additional bonus rooms, bedroom & bathroom.

COMMERCE CITY | $555,000 Impressive 4br/4ba floorplan situated on a premium corner lot. Eat-in kitchen w/granite counters, island & tile floors. Office. Primary suite w/walk-in closet & 5pc bathroom. Fully finished basement w/bedroom, bathroom, living area & kitchenette.

Donna Sloan 303.718.9913 donna@sloanshomes.com | YourHomeWithSloan.com

Brian Campbell 720.217.9435 brian.campbell@cbrealty.com

LITTLETON | $550,000 Incredible 3br/3ba ranch townhome features an open floor plan w/hardwood floors, upgraded kitchen w/granite counters & SS appliances, dining area & fenced patio area. Master bedroom w/5pc en suite bathroom w/heated floor. Partially finished basement.

LITTLETON | Price Upon Request 4br/3ba home. Spacious living room and family room w/a Heatilator gas fireplace. There is formal dining as well as informal kitchen eating space. Unfinished basement w/rough-in for your custom finish. Beautiful landscaping w/front and back patios.

Cindy Kean 303.919.6304 cindy.kean@coloradohomes.com | TheKeanTeam.cbintouch.com

Jan Selinfreund 720.427.5888 selinfreund@msn.com | JanSelinfreund.cbintouch.com

COLORADO SPRINGS | $525,000 5br/4ba home w/3,175 square feet. Main level w/vinyl plank flooring.

Kitchen w/42" cabinets, a gas range, SS appliances and tile backsplash. Primary bedroom w/a primary bath. Complete w/a finished basement, covered patio and fenced backyard.

LAKEWOOD | $499,000 West Lakewood 4br/2ba home on cul-de-sac offers a bright living room, eat-in kitchen, deck & beautiful park like back yard. New carpet, paint, luxury vinyl plank flooring & Mature Trees. Sprinkler system, Central AC. 12-month home warranty.

Rob Thompson 719.337.7254 rob.thompson@coloradohomes.com | RobThompsonHomes.com

Jamie Dilts 720.347.7654 jamie.dilts@coloradohomes.com | TeamDilts.cbintouch.com

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

WESTMINSTER | $490,000 Updated 4br/2ba home w/new carpeting and paint throughout as well as newer laminate flooring on the main level. Enjoy a living room and family room on the main level as well as a main floor bedroom. Well-maintained yard w/mature landscaping.

CENTENNIAL | $490,000 Beautifully remodeled 3br/2ba home on a cul-de-sac featuring an updated kitchen w/white cabinets, Quartz counters, & SS appliances.

Newer carpet, fresh paint, family room w/wood burning fireplace & brick surround & deck w/seating.

The Cybyske Home Team 303.635.1100 Lisa@cybyske.com | Cybyske.com

Jill Nurse 303.241.4915 Jill@TheNurseSellsDenver.com | TheNurseSellsDenver.com

CASTLE ROCK | $470,000 Lovely 3br/3ba property includes a fireplace, remodeled kitchen w/custom white shaker cabinets, granite counters & newer appliances & primary retreat w/ walk-in closet & updated bath.

FORT LUPTON | $450,000 4br/2.5ba home in Coyote Creek w/an open concept floor plan and an electric fireplace. There is also lots of extra storage. Backyard has a deck w/a pergola. Complete w/a garage offering a finished floor as well as solar owned and installed in 2016.

Shannon Byerly 303.919.2611 shannon@yourfreshstartrealtor.com | YourFreshStartRealtor.com

Jimmy Stewart 970.290.3755 jimmy@thekeygroupre.com | TheKeyGroupRE.com

FORT COLLINS | $425,000 3br/2.5ba home in Dry Creek. Living room w/a gas fireplace. Kitchen w/lots of cabinet space and an island. There is an upstairs laundry.

There is central AC and an attached 2-car garage. Complete w/a composite deck and fenced-in backyard.

LITTLETON | $425,000 Cheerful 3br/1ba ranch with 1 car garage. Bright, light-filled living room w/Pergo flooring. Eat-in kitchen with granite counters & stainless steel appliances. Fully fenced, private backyard. Ask me about the extensive upgrade list.

Jimmy Stewart 970.290.3755 jimmy@thekeygroupre.com | TheKeyGroupRE.com

Allison Damico 720.639.0974 allison.damico@coloradohomes.com | AllisonDamico.com

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

guiding you home since 1906

CASTLE ROCK | $410,000 Beautiful 3br/3ba paired home on a corner lot. The main floor is an open concept living area. The owner’s suite offers a private bathroom and walk-in closet. The fenced-in backyard backs to a park area and features a two-tier concrete patio.

DENVER | $400,000 Adorable 2br/2ba home features a newer kitchen w/hardwood floors throughout, spacious living room, large backyard w/vegetable garden & patio. 2-car tandem parking on driveway. Conveniently located near Stanley Market Place & freshly painted.

AnnMarie Mckelvey 720.955.4423 annmarie.mckelvey@coloradohomes.com | DenverListingAgent.com

Beth Radetsky 303.918.5234 beth.radetsky@coloradohomes.com

JOHNSTOWN | $400,000 Lovely 3br/3ba property is situated on a premier lot backing to open space & close to Johnstown Reservoir. Offering an open floor plan, spiral staircase, dining room, kitchen w/white shaker cabinets & pantry.

Primary retreat w/luxurious bath.

Shannon Byerly 303.919.2611 shannon@yourfreshstartrealtor.com | YourFreshStartRealtor.com

LOVELAND | $375,000 3br/1ba ranch style home in Sunset Acres w/hardwood floors. Living room w/a wood burning fireplace.

Enjoy the eat-in kitchen. There is a main floor master bedroom. Complete w/a fenced-in backyard. Great location with easy access to Lake Loveland.

Jimmy Stewart 970.290.3755 Rena Wallingford 970.218.2003

AURORA | $369,000 2br/2ba townhome w/an open floor plan. Oversized kitchen w/granite countertops, SS appliances, a gas stove and a custom backsplash.

Primary suite w/vaulted ceilings, a walk-in closet and an en suite bath.

Complete w/a 2-car garage and a back patio.

COLORADO SPRINGS | Price Upon Request 4br/2ba home w/laminate hardwood flooring and newly painted interior walls. The kitchen boasts stainless steel appliances. Master bedroom w/a walk-in closet and an adjoined bath. Upstairs w/3 additional bedrooms and full bath. Complete w/a backyard.

Angelina Pendleton 321.292.1229 angelina.pendleton@cbrealty.com | angelina.cbintouch.com

Angela M Smith 719.210.8878 Angela@MovingUpWithAngela.com | MovingUpWithAngela.com

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

MILLIKEN | $310,000 Beautiful 3br/2ba ranch paired home in Milliken in the subdivision of Settlers Village. Large & open great room w/vaulted ceilings. Newly landscaped backyard w/patio. Large master suite w/full connected bath & walk in closet. Finished 2-car garage.

LOVELAND | $300,000 Cute and Comfy two bedroom, one bath Ranch Style Home in East Loveland on a large lot. The big kitchen is perfect for entertaining. The backyard is shaded, great on hot summer days. This is a great location with easy access to Hwy 287 and Hwy 34.

Kevin Sanchez 720.277.8164 kevin.sanchez@cbrealty.com | LegacyDreamHomes.com

Jimmy Stewart 970.290.3755 jimmy@thekeygroupre.com | TheKeyGroupRE.com

COLORADO SPRINGS | $290,000 2br/1ba townhome w/newer enhanced vinyl plank flooring and a gas fireplace. Living room w/built-in shelves. Enjoy central air conditioning and ceiling fans. Both bedrooms on the main level. Conclude w/an unfinished basement and a 1-car garage.

COLORADO SPRINGS | $249,500 3br/2ba condo w/a gas fireplace. Open kitchen w/an island, a pantry and includes all appliances. There is 1 attached garage, 1 detached garage and 1 assigned spot. Complete w/a back patio that opens to a grassy courtyard providing mountain views.

Rob Thompson 719.337.7254 rob.thompson@coloradohomes.com | RobThompsonHomes.com

Matthew Beaman 719.321.5279 matthew.beaman@cbrealty.com | BeamanProperties.net

DENVER | $169,900 Ground floor patio w/plants & privacy fencing. Inviting, bright 2br/1ba corner unit w/in unit laundry room, washer/dryer included. Great westside location close to Bear Creek greenbelt trail & Aspen Grove.

All appliances included. Low HOA.

LARKSPUR | $75,000 Close to Palmer Lake and Larkspur! Woodmoor Mountain 3.7 Acre Lot! Secluded valley views. Lot at end of a cul de sac & steep (ideal for a walk out basement). A true retreat to enjoy all that Colorado living has to offer. Call Colleen @ 303-506-3302.

Christiana Barber 720.404.8757 cbhomesco@gmail.com | ChristianaBarber.com

Colleen Huber 303.506.3302 colleen.huber@coloradohomes.com

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

guiding you home since 1906

BOULDER | $2,165,000

BOULDER | $1,659,000

PINE | Price Upon Request

High tech, modern, mountain home. Walls of glass frame w/mountain views. Bright w/open floor plan. Perfect for the discerning Boulderite desiring to live in a private & idyllic setting surrounded by wildlife.

3br/3ba home on a large lot w/high end finishes. Primary bedroom w/a walk-in closet, a full bath and a covered patio w/views of the Foothills. Complete w/a backyard and a 2-car garage.

4br/3ba home on 2.66 acres. Updated kitchen w/granite counters and stainless appliances. Updated master suite w/a bath and walk-in closet. Complete w/a finished basement and deck.

Karen Bernardi 303.402.6000

Spencer Clapperton 720.919.1002

Debbie Joseph 303.842.8331

DILLON | $795,000

DENVER | $750,000

LITTLETON | $802,000 Beautiful 4br/4ba home includes a living & dining room, kitchen w/SS appliances, breakfast nook, family room, study, master bedroom w/5pc master bath & covered patio with gas firepit!

Jan Bollhoefner 303.947.3095

2br/2ba condo has spacious rooms & high-end furnishings. Newer 3br/3.5ba row house. Living room w/fireplace. Kitchen w/quartz carpet, bathrooms & kitchen updates. Beautiful amenities on the countertops, WIFI controlled SS appliances and pantry. Upper level lake. Custom bedding & beautiful furniture included. has primary suite w/an en-suite. Near downtown Denver.

Janene Ervin 720.989.9708

Karen Valdez 303.886.4545

CENTENNIAL | $750,000

CONIFER | Price Upon Request

AURORA | $660,000

Beautiful 5 bedroom, 4 bath home in the Highlands 460 neighborhood. Formal living/dining rooms, main floor study and finished basement. Private and backyard with mature landscaping.

3br/3ba home w/an open floor plan. Open kitchen w/an island and stainless appliances. Master suite w/flex space, walk-in closet and 3/4 bath. Complete w/a fenced yard and 2-car garage.

3br/3ba home w/open floor plan. Kitchen w/an island, new stainless appliances and double ovens. Master bedroom w/a 5-piece bath and walk-in closet. Complete w/a basement and backyard.

Kylie Rupert 303.842.8205

Jeanette Starc 303.520.9425

Rae Marie Heard 720.234.7918

DENVER | $647,900

HIGHLANDS RANCH | $625,000

HIGHLANDS RANCH | Price Upon Request

Beautifully updated 1949 3br/2ba brick ranch showcases effortless natural light, original hardwood floors & quaint, original features. Kitchen boasts all new appliances. Beautiful backyard & oversized 1-car garage.

3br/3ba home features a formal living & dining room, kitchen w/breakfast nook & family room. Master bedroom w/5pc master bathroom & walk-in closet. Loft w/MOUNTAIN VIEWS. 3-car garage.

4br/4ba home. Well-appointed kitchen opens to the family room w/a gas fireplace. Master bedroom, walk-in closet and a master bath. Finished basement, 2-car garage and lovely backyard.

Sarah Schepman 720.308.3295

Susan Ingle 720.771.4783

Kathryn Farrow 720.987.8660

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

LITTLETON | $600,000

DENVER | $600,000

HIGHLANDS RANCH | $600,000

4br/3.5ba home. Kitchen w/ granite countertops, hardwood floors and a gas cooktop. Master suite w/a sitting room and updated 3/4 bath. Complete w/a finished basement and a backyard.

3br/3ba home has an open layout w/designer touches The fully finished basement is great for entertaining. Complete w/a 1-car garage, 1 off-street parking space and a fenced yard.

Lovely, updated 2br/3ba patio home offers vinyl wood flooring, new carpet & paint, kitchen w/new cabinets & granite counters, master suite w/spa-like bath, patio & finished basement.

Mary Ann O'Toole 720.530.6878

Mary Ann O'Toole 720.530.6878

Debbie Joseph 303.842.8331

PARKER | $580,000

AURORA | $578,999

DENVER | $575,000

Charming 3br/2ba ranch home offers an updated kitchen w/upgraded appliances, granite counter & basket-weave backsplash. Updated master bathroom w/granite counters & tile backsplash.

5br/3ba home w/an open floor plan and a gourmet kitchen. Living Wonderful 2br/1ba remodeled bungalow w/open floor plan. Updated room w/a fireplace. Master bedroom w/a walk-in closet and 5-piece kitchen features newer cabinets, granite counters & SS appliances. bath. Complete w/a basement and back patio.

Updated bathroom. Remodeled basement w/new carpet.

Lynne Ross 303.520.8800

Brandon Miller 303.990.0702

Mike Desmarais 303.594.4100

LITTLETON | $569,000

LAKEWOOD | $550,000

LITTLETON | $525,000

4br/2ba home. Main level w/an updated kitchen, dining room and living room. Upstairs w/3 bedrooms, including the master with a 3/4 bath. Complete w/a lower level and a backyard.

3br/3ba home. Family room w/gas fireplace. Kitchen w/quartz countertops and stainless appliances. Master suite with updated bath. Easy access to mtns.

Fabulous 3br/2ba home located in a wonderful neighborhood.

Open floor plan w/vaulted ceilings & remodeled kitchen w/granite counters, new cabinets & newer appliances. Finished basement.

Brandon Miller 303.990.0702

Debbie Joseph 303.842.8331

Bob Sheets 720.404.0229

DENVER | $500,000

DENVER | $499,000

THORNTON | $489,900

Fabulous location! Great potential as a fix & flip, pop-top or scrape!

Habitable as is but needs TLC. Open floor plan. 2br/1ba (5-piece) bath. Large (6,250 square foot) lot.

3br/2ba home w/endless opportunities. There is a two-car garage and RV parking. Across the street from Ruby Hill Park, Levitt Pavilion and close to Overland Golf Course.

Updated 4br/4ba home offers a finished basement, open floor plan, updated kitchen w/maple cabinetry, granite countertops & stainless appliances, main level w/hardwood floors & patio.

Michael & Laurie Marcus 303.550.0075

P.J. Farrell 303.884.5368

Caryn Geiger 303.249.8149

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

guiding you home since 1906

ENGLEWOOD | $475,000

ARVADA | $475,000

Charming 4br/2ba brick home. Convenient location. Beautifully 2br/2.5ba condo. Kitchen w/granite slab countertops and an island. landscaped. Light & bright home w/hardwood floors & bay Master bedroom w/a walk-in closet and 5-piece bath. Complete windows. Complete with a newer roof, furnace & water heater! w/a lower level, a balcony and a deeded parking space.

GOLDEN | Price Upon Request

Charming four-bedroom, two bath, ranch-style home, tucked away in Oberon Heights, feeding into prized Ralston Valley HS and proximity to top schools. Excellent investment!

Ilene Schwartz 720.413.6616

Mary Ann O'Toole 720.530.6878

Lorri DeLaney 720.313.7437

DENVER | $460,000

BAILEY | $450,000

COLORADO SPRINGS | $430,000

Stunning 1br/1ba w/office showcases mountain & Pikes Peak views. Open floor plan including Venetian plaster walls, corkboard flooring, granite countertops, stainless appliances & more.

Amazing 35 acre parcel of land in beautiful Bailey Estates. Mixture of gently sloping land, craggy rock outcroppings and stellar mountain views. Pine and Aspen trees grace the lot.

3br/2ba home. Updated kitchen w/newer appliances and clever cabinets. Main level w/a master bedroom, office and full bath.

Complete w/a lower-level, backyard and detached 2-car garage.

Lynne Ross 303.520.8800

Susan Sharnas 303.475.3096 Tyler Westcott 303.619.4817

Jeremiah Miller 719.505.6605

DENVER | $415,000

BOULDER | $410,000

LOCHBUIE | $405,000

Spacious end unit 4br/2.5ba townhome offers a front patio, open floor plan, bonus nook area, kitchen w/new appliances & fixtures, master suite w/walk-in closet & new bathroom fixtures.

Top floor, vaulted ceiling, south facing 2br/2ba condo. Remodeled to eliminate a dated fireplace, expand the dining & living area & expanding the primary shower. Includes a carport.

Gorgeous two-story 3br/3ba home in the High Plains Community!

Open floor plan. Kitchen w/beautiful counters & pantry. 2nd floor master retreat w/oversized bathroom & walk-in closet.

Natacha M. Gutierrez Esq 720.643.0030

Tom Fowler 303.956.2575 Jillian Fowler 303.884.2032

Bob Sheets 720.404.0229 Tricia Wales 303.941.5354

AURORA | $399,900

AURORA | Price Upon Request

WESTMINSTER | $365,000

2br/2ba townhome. Family room w/a gas fireplace. Kitchen w/newer Don't miss this great home that backs up to open space. Enjoy an stainless appliances. Master bedroom w/a full bath, two closets and assortment of activities or just relax in this beautiful large backyard. an adjacent loft. Complete w/a balcony.

Two bedrooms and two bathrooms with RV parking.

2br/2ba townhome w/open floor plan. Kitchen w/quartz counters, updated cabinets, SS appliances and stylish tile backsplash.

Each floor has a bedroom and full bath. Complete w/a garage.

The Rowley Group 303.841.1021

Michael Williams 303.667.7176

The Cybyske Home Team 303.635.1100

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

ARVADA | $365,000

DENVER | $300,000

AURORA | $299,999

3br/2ba townhome. Living room w/a gas fireplace. Laundry room w/a washer and dryer. Conclude w/a deck, covered parking and storage. Close to shopping, schools, restaurants and parks.

1br/1ba unit w/an open floor plan, an open kitchen, a sunroom and a study. Go right out the door to streets lined with some pubs, bistros and fine dining. Close to parks and shopping.

1br/1ba townhome w/an open floor plan. Kitchen w/SS appliances, glass tile backsplash and pantry nook. Bedroom has an en suite bath w/reach-in closet spaces. Complete w/a private patio.

Sonja Walcker 303.564.4118

Chase Huddleston 303.585.0895

Kari Smith 303.324.2376

AURORA | $285,000

ARVADA | $275,000

DENVER | $249,900

2br/2ba condo w/an open floor plan. Kitchen w/42-inch cabinets, breakfast bar and dining area. Master bedroom w/a walk-in closet and en suite master bath. Complete w/a covered balcony.

Beautifully updated 2br/2ba condo! Kitchen w/newer cabinets, SS appliances & granite counters. Living area w/fireplace. Updated bathrooms. Master bedroom w/bath & private patio access.

Wonderful views in this tastefully renovated 1br/1ba condo boasting a remodeled kitchen w/Bosch SS appliances, new shaker style cabinets & quartz counters, updated bathroom & balcony.

Nita Kolarsick 303.250.8280

Savannah Turke 720.380.6506

Reuben McKelvey 720.840.7763

GUIDING YOU TO THE PLACE WHERE THINGS GO BUMP IN THE NIGHT

Guiding you home since 1906.

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

IN-DEPTH REPORTING DIVERSE PERSPECTIVES

BACKSTORY

SICK THRILLS

Scare actors—creepily costumed employees lurking in haunted attractions to strike fear into our hearts this month—may suffer more than the patrons they terrorize. “You’re putting on a one-person show every 30 seconds,” says Danielle Look (pictured), who practiced her craft at Thornton’s Haunted Field of Screams last year. “People don’t realize how physical it is. You’re wiped out by the end.” And while Look says the sadistic delight of frightening her victims fuels her, the job still presents a nightmarish range of workplace hazards that would make even a real-life ghoul wince. —ANGELA UFHEIL UNDER YOUR SKIN Builders work fast to fabricate the gruesome operating rooms, cursed jail cells, and other disturbing sets guests encounter as they tiptoe through venues.

But sanding smooth, say, a prop coffin doesn’t always get done, Look says, subjecting her co-workers to stakes to the heart (er, thumb) in the form of splinters.

BUMPS IN THE NIGHT Look is often too in the zone to notice when her body is taking a beating.

At her first gig in 2015, she hid behind a window with a fake pane of glass that dropped when she pushed a button. “I was flinging my torso through the window, and I didn’t realize how much I was bruising my ribcage until later,” she says—making the next day all the more grueling.

RIGOR MORTIS For working monsters lying in wait, the element of surprise is paramount. But even the youngest patrons know to expect a spook. Regaining the upper hand can require some creative—and uncomfortable—calisthenics, like the killer workout Look endured when using a mechanic’s creeper (a wheeled platform that slides garage employees under cars) to pop out from beneath a bed.

SCREAM QUEEN Shrieks and wails shred your vocal cords faster than Freddie Krueger can rip through a bedsheet. Lemon tea will soothe that raw tissue, though Look’s inward scream (a technique that involves inhaling and tightening your throat to make a croaking sound) preserves voices best. “What it lacks in volume, it makes up for in eeriness,” she says.

HEART POUNDER “If a scare actor stays in one place, they’re being lazy,” says Look, who adheres to her three-scare rule: Surprise the brave leader of each group, get up close and hassle the cowards in the middle, then sneak up behind the suckers bringing up the rear as they leave the room.

All that movement, though, can leave a fear-inspired thespian gasping for air.

P H O T O G R A P H BY J A S O N S I N N

132 5 2 8 0

OCTOBER 2021

Costume courtesy of Devon McKinney

EYESORE Wearing contacts involves its own set of itchy-eye horrors—and that’s before artificial fog (practically ubiquitous in Halloween attractions) and FX contacts (the costume lenses that lend pupils inhuman colors like devil red).

“Maybe it’s just me,” Look says, “but FX contacts dry my eyes out so much.”

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VOTED BEST FURNITURE STORE

5280 Top of the Town Reader’s Choice 2021

A visit to Rare Finds is nothing short of a treasure hunt that brings the world to you. From carved consoles and benches to high-quality upholstered and top grain leather sofas and chairs, lighting, architectural elements, unique accents and accessories for every space in your home—a visit to Rare Finds engages your senses and your imagination. We offer a variety of collections including tables, seating, furniture, accessories, wall decor, and lighting. Come see why people voted us Denver’s Best Furniture Store.

NOW OPEN DAILY FROM 10am to 6pm IN TWO LOCATIONS: DENVER AND HIGHLANDS RANCH RAREFINDS.COM | FOLLOW US: