5280 Magazine June 2023

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ONONDAGA CAVE STATE PARK, LEASBURG

SILVER DOLLAR CITY, BRANSON

THE NELSON-ATKINS MUSEUM OF ART, KANSAS CITY

ST. LOUIS UNION STATION SODA FOUNTAIN WARM SPRINGS RANCH, BOONVILLE

hip where

Uncover the wonder of the great outdoors. Then, let yourself wander the shops of downtown Boulder - both on and off the famous Pearl Street Mall. Here, there’s something for every adventurer, artist and foodie alike. From excellent restaurants to outdoor fun, discover all of the hidden gems of downtown Boulder this summer! Discover your Happy Place at VisitDowntownBoulder.com

hippie meets

46

Comfort Zone

Glamping, camping’s highclass cousin, has taken off across the West, with canvas tents, Airstream trailers, treehouses, and other abodes connecting you to nature while still providing ample luxury. Here, the best places to give glamorous camping a try in Colorado and beyond.

EDITED BY DALIAH SINGER

58

The Sense & Sensibility Of Being An Abortion Haven

How the fall of Roe v. Wade— which happened one year ago this month—has affected, and will continue to have an impact on, Coloradans and those who travel to the Centennial State for abortion care.

BY LINDSEY B. KING

72 Mountain Music

The Telluride Bluegrass Festival turns 50 this month. We take you inside the nation’s premier string band music fete—through the words of the people who have made it happen.

BY DEVON O’NEIL

Get carried away in Vail, where adventure meets luxury. Set in a Bavarian-inspired village with nearly 150 shops, over 75 restaurants, world-class spas, premium properties and thrilling events, the experiences are endless. Relax, unwind and discover Vail this summer.

DISCOVERVAIL.COM

DEPTS.

COMPASS

19 MUSIC

Two iconic acts—Hazel Miller and Big Head Todd and the Monsters—retrace their interwoven careers ahead of their induction into the Colorado Music Hall of Fame.

22 ADVENTURE

Rafting and ziplining? Skiing and climbing? We found four high-country towns where you can pursue twofor-one fun this summer.

24 KIDS & FAMILY

From a 3D, STEM-focused model-building kit to an inspirational coloring book, this back-to-summer shopping list will keep your tykes entertained and engaged during the coming dog days.

26 POLITICS

Colorado unveils an e-bike incentive of its own. (Hint: It looks a lot like Denver’s.)

EAT & DRINK

29 SIPS

A gin-forward cocktail spot puts down roots in Five Points.

30 WHAT’S HOT

The Fritay Haitian Cuisine food truck introduces locals to the island’s signature fried street fare.

32 REVIEW

Pastries, desserts, and early-day bites draw downtowners to Mary Nguyen’s Little Finch.

BY ALLYSON REEDY

COLUMN

36 NATURE

Colorado Parks and Wildlife says the Eurasian collared dove is a scourge on native bird populations. But maybe humans are the real menace.

BY RACHEL TURIEL

BACKSTORY

116 FREE WHEELIN’

Five years after shared electric scooters arrived in Denver, we break down the rules riders love to ignore.

Photograph by Whit Richardson

Clockwise from top left: Matt Nager; Courtesy of Zometool Inc.; Sarah Banks; Courtesy of Salida River Adventures; ImageBROKER/Rainer Mueller/Getty Images

Compassionate, comprehensive healthcare for your whole family.

CU Medicine always puts our patients first. With nationally recognized physicians, we CU and treat you with the most advanced technology—and provide personalized, comprehensive care you can trust. Because at CU Medicine, we CU as more than a patient. We CU as the inspiration behind everything we do.

We CU as our #1 priority. Find a provider near you at CUmedicine.us.

303.818.8668

EDITOR

Lindsey B. King

ART DIRECTOR

David McKenna

DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Maren Horjus

EDITORIAL

MANAGING EDITOR

Jessica LaRusso

SENIOR STAFF WRITER

Robert Sanchez

FEATURES EDITOR

Spencer Campbell

SENIOR EDITOR

Nicholas Hunt FOOD EDITOR

Patricia Kaowthumrong

ASSOCIATE EDITORS

Madi Skahill, Chris Walker

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Barbara Urzua

ASSISTANT FOOD EDITOR

Ethan Pan

RESEARCH EDITOR

Visvajit Sriramrajan

COPY EDITORS

Shannon Carroll, Dougald MacDonald

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kelly Bastone, Laura Beausire, Christine DeOrio, Clay Fong, Courtney Holden, Sarah Kuta, Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan, Jenny McCoy, Allyson Reedy, Meredith Sell, Daliah Singer, Martin J. Smith, Andy Stein

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Hen Carnell, Helen Xu

DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY

PHOTO EDITOR

Charli Ornett

DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR

Sean Parsons

DEPUTY PHOTO EDITOR

Sarah Banks

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Hanna Barczyk, Tim Benko, John Devolle, Beatrix Hatcher, Jen Judge, Matt Nager, Whit Richardson, Rachel Woolf

CEO & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Daniel Brogan

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Geoff Van Dyke

PARADISE PARASAIL, LAKE OF THE OZARKS

Greta Kotova

P RODUCTION COORDINATOR

Alyssa Chutka

DES IGN COORDINATOR

Mylie Hiraoka

NEWS STAND CONSULTANT

Alan Centofante

CIRCULATION CONSULTANTS

Meg Clark, Greg Wolfe

ADMINISTRATION

HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER

Derek Noyes

OFFICE MANAGER

Todd A. Black

BILLING & COLLECTIONS MANAGER

Jessica McHeard

Depart from the ordinary.

Enjoy private jet perks at airline prices when you fly from our dedicated terminal at Rocky Mountain Airport. Simply check in just 20 minutes before your flight takes off to Burbank, Dallas, Las Vegas or Phoenix. Experience the thrill of members-only service without the membership fees. We’ve removed the stress, the lines and the hassles from the equation so you can fall in love with flying again.

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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR & DINING GUIDE

Letters to the editor must include your name, address, and a daytime phone number (all of which can be withheld from publication upon request). Letters may be submitted via regular mail or email (letters@5280. com). To have a restaurant considered for our Dining Guide, contact us by phone or email (dining@5280.com) to receive a submission form. We also encourage you to contact us if your experience at a restaurant differs significantly from our listing. Information for these sections should be subm itted at least six weeks before the issue’s cover date.

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New perspectives comes to those who hike.

BEHIND THE STORIES

Life’s Soundtrack

The first time I recall hearing a fiddle, I was eight or nine years old. The overalls-clad musician with a scraggly gray beard was straddling a stool and chopping away with his bow. He and his bandmates— one of whom was playing the spoons, the other working a washboard—were part of the Vandalia Gathering, a celebration of folklife in Charleston, West Virginia, that’s been around since 1977. It’s probably been 35 years since that day, but I can still hear the oldtimey squawking of that fiddle.

Three years before the birth of the Vandalia Gathering, a group of long-haired Colorado hippies with a penchant for pickin’ staged the first iteration of what would become one of the most legendary annual musical events in history: the Telluride Bluegrass Festival (TBF). When writer Devon O’Neil reached out to me with the idea to write an oral history of TBF to coincide with its 50th anniversary this month, I thought of something else I remember from attending the Vandalia Gathering: Musicians are the best storytellers.

If you take the time to read “Mountain Music” (page 72)—and I highly recommend you do—I think you’ll agree. With anecdotes from longtimers such as Sam Bush and Mary Chapin Carpenter as well as yarns from relative newcomers like Nickel Creek’s Chris Thile and Yonder Mountain String Band’s Adam Aijala, O’Neil’s piece is a rollicking account that spans five decades and includes juicy, Behind the Music –style revelations that even the melodically disinclined will appreciate.

Much like the Vandalia Gathering—but, you know, much cooler—TBF is a quintessential part of Centennial State lore and, for many, a musical rite of passage. I, for one, am ashamed to say that I have not yet attended Telluride’s pre-eminent party for fiddlers, mandolinists, bassists, and steel guitarists. One day soon, however, I hope to add TBF to my musical memory bank.

Benko has been capturing images of the Telluride Bluegrass Festival for 37 years. See his work in this month’s oral history of the fete (page 72).

ON THE MEMORY CARD

”The bass player for Stephen Kellogg‘s band, Kit Karlson, once stripped down to his boxers and ran around the festival while security tried, and failed, to stop him, thinking he was some crazed fan. The crowd went berserk!”

THIS YEAR’S GOAL

”I want to focus (no pun intended) on getting some creative shots I’ve been thinking about over the years, like a group shot of the crowd from on top of the band shell stage.”

ON 5280.COM

A COLORADICAL SUMMER

Starting this month, head to 5280.com for a new biweekly adventure column, which will introduce readers to beginnerfriendly trips with big payoffs— complete with packing lists, skills know-how, and more.

CORRECTIONS

LINDSEY B. KING

Email: lindsey@5280.com

Twitter: @linzbking

In April’s “Not So Jerry Jeans,” we reported that Western Rise is based in Vail; it’s in Telluride. In May’s “This Land Is Your Land,” we misspelled Joel Webster’s name. We regret the errors.

From top left: Sarah Banks; Lewis Cooper/Gonzoshots/Courtesy of Tim Benko; Welcomia/Getty Images; Willy Matthews/Courtesy of Planet Bluegrass

Tim Benko Photographer

However

Thanks for voting us #1 in service!

Denver, you’ve never seen anything quite like this.

Walk through our doors and you won’t believe your eyes. Everywhere you turn there’s more. In fact, a typical store carries 8,167 unique wines, 4,874 unique spirits and 2,693 unique beers. Sure, we have unbeatable selection and prices, but we bet you’ll keep coming back for unrivaled service.

Plan your visit at TotalWine.com

The first thing you notice at Total Wine & More is the unbelievable selection. That’s because everywhere you turn, in every aisle, there’s— well, more. But believe this: A typical store carries 8,167 unique wines—with up to a quarter of a million bottles on the shelves—4,874 unique spirits and 2,693 unique beers.

CoMPASS

Track Records

Two

From left: Brian Nevin, Hazel Miller, Todd Park Mohr, Jeremy Lawton, and Rob Squires

iconic acts—Hazel Miller and Big Head Todd and the Monsters—retrace their interwoven careers ahead of their induction into the Colorado Music Hall of Fame.

MUSIC

June 10 won’t be the first time that guitar licks from Big Head Todd and the Monsters and vocals from Hazel Miller reverberate off the walls of Red Rocks Amphitheatre. But their return to the venue will be a special one for the longtime collaborators: The blues-rock quartet and the 69-year-old R&B singer are both being inducted into the on-site Colorado Music Hall of Fame that night. Ahead of their show/ceremony, we asked the honorees to chart their vaunted careers.

—CHRIS WALKER

BIG HEAD TODD AND THE MONSTERS HAZEL MILLER

High school friends and founding members Todd Park Mohr, Brian Nevin, and Rob Squires formed the band in 1986 while attending the University of Colorado Boulder and set out to tour the country in the Colonel, their yellow 1977 Plymouth van. In 2004, they added keyboardist Jeremy Lawton.

The group has had five top 100 singles on Billboard’s rock charts and one platinum-selling album, Sister Sweetly.

“Our first show at Red Rocks in 1991 was a blues fest featuring B.B. King and Albert Collins. I ended up being invited to sit in with Albert. We ended up friends, which itself was a great honor.” —Mohr

“By a mile, Robert Plant. He was touring for his Fate of Nations album and invited us to join him. All of us are Led Zeppelin devotees, and Robert Plant is, after all, a rock god. He was very gentlemanly and fun, and his band was superb.” —Mohr

“You might guess that our most successful tour was in 1993 for Sister Sweetly. You would be wrong. We’re selling more tickets than ever, and we have been noticing a more diverse audience. That gratification, capped off by this nice recognition by the Colorado Music Hall of Fame alongside our dear friend Hazel Miller, makes this the best year ever for the band.” —Mohr

Most Memorable Performance

Favorite Touring Partner

Miller was first noticed in her hometown of Louisville, Kentucky, where she sang backup vocals for the likes of Al Green, but she landed in Denver in 1984 when her family’s U-Haul broke down during a planned move to Los Angeles. She never left.

Highlights include performing at the White House for Bill Clinton and opening for James Brown and James Taylor, among others.

“Herbie Hancock asked me to sing with him in Kobe, Japan, sight unseen and voice unheard. I gave that performance my all, and he was smiling at me the whole time. I felt accepted and encouraged by a jazz legend.”

“While I’ve traveled with my own band for decades, I’ve only toured as a member of another band with Big Head Todd and the Monsters. I’ll be forever grateful for it. They raised my recognition level—I wasn’t just another local singer anymore.”

Biggest Feat

“That I’m still singing in Colorado! Our state is a competitive market for any artist, so I’m grateful for all the support from my friends and fans. Now, I’m looking forward to my grandchildren’s futures in a business I love: One granddaughter is a fabulous singer and actress, and one grandson is studying to be a producer, engineer, and performer.”

From left: Jenise Jensen Photography; Seth McConnell/the Denver Post via Getty Images

Origin Story

Bona Fides

MAGNIFY time

When nature is at your doorstep, awe-inspiring moments are right within reach. Welcome to life magnified.

GOSNOWMASS.COM

Photo: Jeremy Swanson

ADVENTURE

Fork Valley earn a gold-level ranking from the International Mountain Bicycling Association. Cool down by inch-worming your way through the bowels of Iron Mountain during Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park’s two-hour Wild Tour spelunking expedition (from $85). The cave, located above its namesake town, is a chilly 52 degrees year-round.

Stay: The luxe bike-in, bike-out condos at Top of the Village in Snowmass Village provide a convenient place to crash (from $299 per night).

RAFTING + ZIPLINING Salida

Dual Action

The Centennial State’s short high country summers can send outdoors lovers into a decision-making tailspin: To bike or climb today, that is the question. Wait, or is it: to kayak or horseback ride? If you can’t choose, don’t. These destinations serve up multicourse menus of adventure.

—COURTNEY HOLDEN

SKIING + CLIMBING Silverthorne

Play: With much of its 1,428 acres above 11,000 feet, Arapahoe Basin Ski Area often stays open well into June. But after you’ve had your fill of slushy turns on runs like High Noon, don’t just party in the parking lot. Silverthorne-based Colorado Adventure Guides will tailor a half-day climbing tour (from $155) of nearby Haus Rock to your skill level, whether

you’re looking for cruisy routes such as the 5.6-rated Little Squirt or forearm-busting 5.12s like Crystal Ball. Stay: Save with a night in a shared dorm at the Pad (from $52 per night), a hotel-hostel hybrid in Silverthorne, and you’ll be only a stumble away from the 26 beer, wine, and draft cocktail taps at the in-house A-Bar.

HORSEBACK RIDING + KAYAKING Steamboat Springs

Play: Saddle up at familyowned Del’s Triangle 3 Ranch and spend the morning ambling along mountain ridges and through meadows of mule ear daisies (from $95). Once the temp reaches its midday high, heed the Yampa River’s call by renting an inflatable kayak,

known as a ducky ($40), from Steamboat’s Backdoor Sports. The riverside gear shop is a short paddle upstream from Charlie’s Hole, a Class II surf wave that can be rowdy at high water. Stay: A heated outdoor pool and faux fur blankets welcome guests to the new-in-2022

Gravity Haus Steamboat (from $150 per night). Pups welcome.

MOUNTAIN BIKING + SPELUNKING

Snowmass

Play: You could burn some calories ascending Discovery Trail, which climbs nearly 800 feet through columbine patches and budding aspen groves, or you could defy gravity on the lift at Snowmass Bike Park (from $57). Either way, you’ll be ripping trails that have helped the Roaring

Play: Don’t let the Instagramworthy Collegiate Peaks distract you from the Arkansas River’s Class III rapids during Salida River Adventures’ afternoon float through Browns Canyon National Monument (from $84). The 10-mile paddle wraps up at 5 p.m., leaving you just enough time to dry off before a sunset tour ($169) led by Captain Zipline, 15 minutes south of town. Helmet hand-out for the two-hour trip starts around, well, sunset. Check the website for exact times, and go ahead and book your outing while you’re there: This is the company’s most popular offering.

Stay: Unwind in the hot tub before retiring to your retrofitted Airstream at Amigo Motor Lodge ($115 per night).

From top: Larry Pierce; Ian Zinner/Courtesy of Arapahoe Basin; Courtesy of Salida River Adventures

SCH OOL’S OUT

Forget fresh number two pencils and packs of color-coded folders. With Denver Public Schools wrapping up class on June 2, now’s the time to put together your back-to-summer shopping list. To get you started, we’ve rounded up five items with Colorado connections that will keep your tykes entertained and engaged during the coming dog days.

—NICHOLAS HUNT

THE (NAKED) STEAM KIT

Sure, this three-dimensional puzzle meets construction kit from Longmont-based Zometool is expensive, but a toy that tricks your kids into learning about geometry, fractals, and the atomic structure of matter is priceless. $340

SPACETEAM

With just five minutes per round to fix your broken spaceship—while also dealing with unexpected obstacles like wormholes (where the three to six players must all swap seats)— this fast-paced, collaborative card game from Boulder’s Stellar Factory is the perfect diversion during a rain delay. $25

COLORFUL COLORADO COLORING JOURNAL

More than just a coloring book, this title by Boulder artist Amanda Lenz pairs each of its 65 illustrations with an inspirational quote, details about the plants and animals featured, and enough white space for your budding artist to expand the scene. $15

KIDS’

The comfier your kiddos’ feet, the farther they’ll hike. Released in January, the Kids’ Hike socks from Denver’s Smartwool come in full and light cushioned versions, feature a flat-knit seam to prevent toe jam, and have an elastic arch for extra support. $13 to $15 per pair

YOUNG ARTIST SERIES NECK GAITER Town Hall, a Steamboat Springs–based kids apparel company, partnered with Denver’s Phunkshun to manufacture this 92-percentrecycled-material gaiter in-state using a 2021 design by Reese Davidoff, then a fifth grader at Steamboat’s Soda Creek Elementary. $20

HIKE SOCKS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH BANKS

Like Denver’s, the state’s rebate will be redeemable right at the register, but there will be differences. For example, while all Denverites can obtain the city’s $300 concession, with income-qualified parties receiving up to $1,200, only moderate- and low-income earners will be eligible for the state incentive. Denver also mandates that participants must purchase their e-bikes at brick-and-mortar shops in the city, but CEO will make its discounts available at participating online retailers so people

$4.7 million

Amount Denver spent to fund 4,734 rebates in 2022. More than 65 percent of that pot went to income-qualified residents.

The Rebate State

Colorado unveils an e-bike incentive of its own. (Hint: It looks a lot like Denver’s.)

The response to Denver’s electric bike incentive program has been nothing short of, ahem, shocking. Since the initiative’s launch in April 2022, more than 5,000 residents have snagged rebates, and these aren’t just for pleasure trips. Ride Report, a tech company based in Portland, Oregon, that helps local governments manage mobility projects, surveyed new e-bike owners in Denver and found that in the project’s first nine months, riders pedaled an average of 26 miles each week and replaced 3.4 round trips that they would have otherwise done by car. Across all rebate users, that’s enough to replace 100,000 vehicle miles every seven days.

Given that success, you could excuse other governmental entities for stealing the idea: Even the Washington Post exclaimed that the program could be a national model for cutting emissions and traffic. Nevertheless, Sarah Thorne, spokesperson for the Colorado Energy Office (CEO), swears her agency had plans to subsidize the sale of powered two-wheelers before Denver unveiled its program. It just didn’t have the money. That changed in June 2022, when the Legislature earmarked $12 million to get people on e-bikes, $10 million of which will fund CEO’s own rebate scheme beginning this summer. (The remainder will go to CEO’s Community Access to Electric Bicycles Grant Program, which seeks to increase e-bike access for low-income individuals by funding initiatives at nonprofits, local and tribal governments, and other community organizations.)

in rural communities who don’t have easy access to a bike shop can hop in the saddle, too. Other details, including how much the rebates will be and when they will start, had not been finalized by press time. Despite the long wait, CEO’s version is likely to be short-lived. The state General Assembly is poised to pass a permanent e-bike tax credit this session that will be available to everyone, regardless of income. And according to Thorne, the agency wants to distribute its windfall before January 2024, when the new program would pedal off the start line. —SPENCER

CAMPBELL

Your Rocky Mountain Retreat for Adventure & restoration

Whether you’re seeking fresh air or a fresh perspective, retreat to 6,500 pristine acres in the Rockies for repose, adventure, and inspiration. Private cabins and cozy lodge rooms set the stage for the perfect mountain getaway. Zoom through the treetops on our four zip lines. Ride through wildflower-dotted meadows on horseback. Conquer scenic single track on a bike. Our lovely landscape is your playground. Relax and refill your cup with refined on-site dining, a full-service spa, and a year-round outdoor pool and hot tub. A little wild, a little refined, completely Colorado.

Growth Opportunity

A gin-forward cocktail spot puts down roots in Five Points.

Stepping off bustling Welton Street and into the Marigold, a bar meets plant shop that opened in March, feels like entering a lush oasis. But the shoppable pothos and monsteras aren’t the only things that make this sun-filled spot refreshing. Instead of adding to the roster of whiskey-heavy bars around town, co-owners Genevieve Shifrin and Sudhir Kudva—part of the eight-person group behind local concepts such as Gold Point and the Matchbox—built the menu around inventive gin cocktails. “There’s so much more out there other than Tanqueray and Bombay,” Kudva says. “We’re trying to get people to explore.” Although other liquors (and beer and wine) are available, we recommend sampling a few of the Marigold’s 20 versions of the versatile botanical spirit in a flight. Of course, visitors could also simply grab a mule, made with gin or vodka, or a G&T, both just $7 during happy hour from 4 to 8 p.m. daily. For maximum serenity, enjoy your sips on the sprawling, umbrella-shaded rooftop, perched up a staircase from the main bar, or in the tranquil Japanese garden on the back patio.

—MADI

EAT DRINK

Try the bubbles-infused Mind Your Elderflowers with Malfy

Gin Rosa.

SKAHILL

PHOTOGRAPH BY SARAH BANKS

Mile-High Fry

The Fritay Haitian Cuisine food truck introduces locals to the island’s signature fried street fare.

 GRIOT-LOADED FRIES

Jean Pierre makes griot—a fried meat often considered Haiti’s national dish—by marinating cubes of pork shoulder in vinegar, lime, and sour orange juice seasoned with habanero pepper and epis. Then she boils the whole mixture to partially cook and tenderize the meat and browns the griot to order before sprinkling it over equally crispy in-house fries. The entire affair is topped with pikliz (see below), pickled red onion, and Jean Pierre’s secret-recipe, Creole-inspired mayo.

PIKLIZ

A ubiquitous Haitian condiment, pikliz is a simple preparation of shredded cabbage, carrots, and hot peppers pickled in lime, vinegar, and salt. Like many other Caribbean dishes, it traditionally uses Scotch bonnet chiles, which Jean Pierre says are impossible to find in Denver, so she replaces them with less spicy habaneros and ups the proportion of peppers.

In addition to using pikliz as a topping, Fritay sells eightounce to-go containers, but beware: It gets spicier the longer it sits.

MARINAD

These savory fritters are made from a basic flourand-water batter flavored with parsley, onion and garlic powders, and a bit of epis. Unlike hushpuppies and other similarly sized treats, Jean Pierre’s marinad have a thick, crunchy exterior due to being fried at an extra-hot temperature, which means they are less likely to get soggy after cooling off.

RED SNAPPER

Besides scaling and cleaning the inside, Jean Pierre does little to prep her limeand-epis-seasoned whole red snapper. The crispskinned fish comes with rice and beans, Haitian-style macaroni salad, plantains, pikliz, and a tomato-based gravy sauce, and Jean Pierre leaves it up to you to pick the tender flesh off its spine—with a fork or your bare hands.

When Taste of Haiti, Denver’s only Haitian restaurant, closed in 2019, Farah-Jane Jean Pierre took the matter—and batter—into her own hands. Using the culinary degree she earned in New Jersey after immigrating there in 2010, Jean Pierre started perfecting recipes for comfort foods from her home country in her own kitchen, eventually selling them at pop-ups in 2021. Fritay Haitian Cuisine, which evolved into a food truck a few months later, specializes in fritay (pronounced “free-tie”), an assortment of fried foods popular in the island nation. “There’s a vendor at every corner in Port-au-Prince,” says Jean Pierre, who owns the business with her husband, François Zannou. After taking a break at the end of 2022 to welcome their first child, the couple is back on the road slinging, among other items, these signature specialties. —Ethan Pan

EPIS

With a name derived from the French word for spice, epis is the flavor foundation of Haitian cuisine, and each household’s recipe for the earthy, savory seasoning paste is slightly different. Jean Pierre’s version (passed down by her mother) blends classic ingredients such as green bell peppers, parsley, thyme, onion, and garlic and gets added flair from tomato and ginger.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH BANKS

Sweet Spot

Pastries, desserts, and early-day bites draw downtowners to Mary Nguyen’s Little Finch.

BY ALLYSON REEDY

Much like the appetites of Colorado diners, Mary Nguyen’s preferences have changed since the early 2000s. That’s why, in 2013, the chef-restaurateur switched from cooking Asian food to offering cafe cuisine at Olive & Finch, which debuted a spinoff concept called Little Finch on the 16th Street Mall in January. “I would say my career has just evolved, as have my tastes,” Nguyen says. “I’m gonna take a leap and say that Denver has also evolved.”

If you’ve been a mile-high resident for more than a hot minute, you likely remember Uptown’s Parallel Seventeen, where the Centennial State native served gussied-up versions of Vietnamese specialties, and Englewood’s Street Kitchen Asian Bistro, its suburban counterpart. The eateries—which opened in 2005 and 2011, respectively, when high-end Asian cuisine wasn’t common in town—moved the local food scene forward. Around the same time, though, an influx of culinary talent opened other pioneering full-service restaurants, such as ChoLon and Fruition. It was then that Nguyen identified what we needed before we knew we needed it: something quick, easy, and delicious.

LITTLE FINCH

1490 16th Street Mall, oliveandfinch.com

THE DRAW

An all-day cafe with a wide assortment of tasty breakfast dishes and pastries

THE DRAWBACK

Lackluster cocktails and entrées make evenings less appealing

NOISE LEVEL Typically minimal

DON’T MISS

Flaky almond croissant, fruit-topped cheesecake, s’mores brownie

Nguyen relied on the French techniques she learned from Vietnamese cooking to launch Olive & Finch in Uptown. The popularity of the spot’s pastries and breakfast and lunch fare led Nguyen to add a Cherry Creek outpost in 2017 and a central bake shop that supplies her cafes.

Little Finch diverges from Olive & Finch in that the downtown spot is intended to be an all-day destination where patrons can linger over craft coffee in the a.m. and enjoy alcoholic beverages by evening. The cozy fireplace in the corner, the thoughtfully assembled drink and condiment station, and the carafes of water all

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH BANKS

From left: Chef-owner Mary Nguyen; Little Finch’s fruittopped cheesecake

Long before the creation of Yellowstone National Park, Cheyenne welcomed curious wanderers out west. With the perfect playground of remote trails and rugged experiences pretty much right next door, it is the ideal place to relive America’s history while carving your own path.

Wyoming starts here. Live the Legend in Cheyenne.

encourage you to stick around for a while in the sunny corner space with lots of windows at the intersection of Blake and 16th streets.

Morning is my favorite time to visit, because Nguyen’s pastry case overflows with rolls, muffins, croissants, and quiches. The cinnamon roll, more flaky than gooey, is made with so much butter and sugar that, at first, I thought there was a layer of caramel tucked under the frosting. Instead, it’s just all that good stuff bubbling up and browning in the oven. The almond croissant is similarly decadent

and richness of the cajeta (goat’s milk caramel) in the former, I would have appreciated a stronger coffee flavor that went beyond a basic latte, and I wanted more sweet and floral notes to come through in the latter.

Little Finch after dark was less successful for me. While the cocktails come in gorgeous hues, they don’t compete well with the boozy sippers at nearby Run for the Roses or at Hell or High Water Tiki. My Havana Nights, a tequila, passionfruit, and chile blend, needed a stir and wasn’t at all fiery. The refreshing pineapple, turmeric, and ginger Monsoon Rain mocktail had much more kick.

NEIGHBORHOOD

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

The pandemic, concerns about crime, and a massive renovation project on the 16th Street Mall are among the challenges downtown Denver businesses have faced in the past few years. But recently, several new restaurants and cafes, like Little Finch, have emerged, reenergizing the heart of the city with everything from fancy fish to cheap pizza. Here’s where you can taste the revival. —AR

and super moist, thanks to a dip in simple syrup and a frangipane (sweet-almond-flavored custard) filling, and the chocolate version is topped with shards of 65 percent dark chocolate. The heavenly kouignamann, a buttery, sugar-crusted cake, is flecked with rosemary and flattened with a brûléed finish.

If you can pull yourself away from the baked goodies, the saucersize quiche Lorraine is everything the custardy French tart should be. Soft and savory, the Gruyère gives it a nutty bite, while the Black Forest ham and applewood bacon deliver the requisite saltiness. The Intelligentsia coffees—a cult-favorite, Chicago-based brand—are another morning option, with the staff pointing me toward the cajeta latte and the iced honey and lavender shaken espresso. While I got a bit of the tang

The dinner menu tops out at a refreshing $15 and offers salads, soups, flatbreads, sandwiches, and a few rotating entrées. Everything is made at the central Olive & Finch bake shop and then warmed up to order at the restaurant, which sounds a little reheated-TV-dinnerish but doesn’t taste that way. Our table favorite was the margherita flatbread, which had a cracker-crisp crust around the edges with a nice chew in the center. The tomato slices, basil flakes, and mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses were fresh and unfussy. I wasn’t in love with the boeuf bourguignon, though, and wanted to taste more zip from the red wine. The beef chunks were big and tender, but without that acidity, the dish was far too bland.

Unsurprisingly, Nguyen’s desserts delivered. The sugarbottomed and berry-topped cheesecake was wonderfully creamy, and the giant s’mores brownie, a super-dense, fudgy confection crowned with a toasty marshmallow, was better than any campfire creation I’ve ever made.

Back in the day, I was confused about why Nguyen, who did so much for elevating Asian food in Denver, would instead focus on a bakery/cafe at Olive & Finch and, now, at Little Finch. But people— and cities—change. If the evolution of Nguyen’s palate yields more laminated-dough-based treats, I can’t wait to savor what’s next.

Sofia’s Roman Pizza doesn’t just serve hearty slices of rustic, square pie; it serves them at the bargain price of $3.50 to $4.50 per slice and has $5 beers, $6 wines, and $10 Negronis during happy hour. An airy, counter-service, downtown restaurant where you can fill up on quality food for under $15? Check, please. 1530 16th Street Mall

In February, Iowa-based 801 Restaurant Group brought its upscale seafood concept, 801 Fish, to the corner of 17th and Curtis streets. The menu covers most anything you want to eat from the ocean—oysters, uni, tuna, scallops, and more— and it all makes the journey from ocean to table within about 36 hours. 999 17th St.

New York City–based Van Leeuwen deemed Denver ready for its...let’s just say unique ice cream flavors—such as Kraft Macaroni & Cheese and Grey Poupon—this past September. That’s when the company turned the freezers on in Larimer Square, home to its second Colorado scoop shop (the first is in Boulder). While the offbeat offerings get most of the buzz, it’s the more traditional Honeycomb and Sicilian Pistachio that fans melt for. 1459 Larimer St.

Nguyen’s quiche Lorraine pairs well with a glass of wine any time of day.

Van Leeuwen slings stacked cones in Larimer Square.

Courtesy of Van Leeuwen Ice Cream (Van Leeuwen)

RACHEL TURIEL

Unwelcome Guests

Colorado Parks and Wildlife says the Eurasian collared dove is a scourge on native bird populations. But maybe humans are the real menace.

The bird is striking: creamy gray body, square-tipped tail feathers, and a black slash at the back of its neck. My 13-year-old son expands the feathered accordion of its wing. “Isn’t it beautiful?” he says, admiring the Eurasian collared dove he’s just killed with his BB gun.

He unzips the bird with a sharp knife, fingers out the viscera, and tugs off the feathered coat. I smell the particular, though not unpleasant, scent of internal organs: sharp and earthy. The head and innards go to our chickens, but the tiny, dark gumdrop heart is left under the ribcage, a delicacy for the hunter. We plunge the whole, undressed bird into a marinade glittered with diced garlic.

We’ve been hosting birds since buying our 1950s ranch-style house in Durango’s Tupperware Heights neighborhood 23 years ago. Formerly sagebrush dotted with piñon and juniper, the area is now more commonly inhabited by vinyl-sided rectangles and tidy lawns.

All summer, chickadees nab insects from our garden rows. By late August, evening grosbeaks and robins decorate our chokecherry trees, their beaks stained purple with effort. In fall, pine siskins and goldfinches grip spent sunflower heads, extracting oily kernels of protein.

In addition to our yard’s abundant natural forage, our five-foot-long tray feeder features an unlimited sunflower seed buffet. It is no wonder the Eurasian collared doves, invasive and dominant, have found us. It’s like throwing a really great block party and trying to keep those neighbors from finding out. The Eurasian collared doves come year-round in small, boisterous flocks, dispersing the smaller birds and overtaking our feeders. We’ve become the bouncers with our BB gun, trying to manage the unwelcome guests. Occasionally, a copper pellet, meant to deter, kills.

Native to Asia, Eurasian collared doves first entered the United States—arriving in Florida by way of the Bahamas, after humans brought them there—within my lifetime. When the seminal North American birding manual the Sibley Guide to Birds was published 23 years ago, these birds were found, only rarely, in one county in Colorado.

(“Rarely” was designated by David Sibley as “may be a single record each year.”) Now they’ve flown into all corners of the nation, are designated common in every county in the Centennial State, and visit our backyard feeder regularly and voraciously.

It’s disturbingly easy to see these doves as noxious and unwanted and, thus, to categorically devalue their lives. Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW) condones this view: The Eurasian collared dove is designated “invasive” and can be legally hunted year-round; no license is required, and there’s no bag nor possession limit. CPW’s website explains that “because the birds breed easily, wildlife managers are worried that [Eurasian collared doves] may out-compete native species for food and habitat.” And, offered like the mic drop of scientific truth-telling, “about 42 percent of the species on the Federal Threatened or Endangered Species lists are at risk primarily because of invasive species.”

This raises a few questions. Namely, which came first: invasive species or the conditions that favor them, specifically climate-changecaused imbalances in the ecosystem? And is it ethical and effective to kill one species to protect another? Perhaps these are

unanswerable questions, yet my curiosity led me to Brad Weinmeister, a wildlife biologist in CPW’s Durango office. Weinmeister, ironically, spent happy childhood years with a pet Eurasian collared dove in the 1970s, purchased at Frank’s Pet Store in Greeley.

“It’s ethical,” Weinmeister says, regarding CPW’s current dove hunting policy. He

[than unrestricted hunting limits] to reduce their numbers,” she says.

explained that Eurasian collared doves, like many invasive species, are generalists, meaning they exploit multiple food sources and habitats. When resources diminish and habitat shrinks, specialists suffer and generalists move in. Lynn Wickersham, lead biologist for research and monitoring projects for passerine birds (avians that like to perch on branches) at Durango’s conservation-minded Animas Biological Studies, agrees this invasive bird may have an impact on native avian communities. “There really isn’t a better strategy

The dove, reproductively speaking, is the winged version of the infamously lusty rabbit, typically taking only the two coldest months of winter off from their breeding schedule. A monogamous pair of collared doves may raise up to six broods of one to two chicks annually, and the female can lay a new clutch while young are still in a previous (or even the same) nest. This strategy is so untouchable that it makes a bird like the chickadee, with its one annual brood of up to three chicks, seem, comparatively, like it has been naturally selected for extinction.

Wickersham conducts bird banding operations to track population trends of landbirds for California’s Institute for Bird Populations. The scientific collection permit she gets from CPW plainly states that after capturing a Eurasian collared dove (or starlings or house sparrows) “release is discouraged.” This is a palatable way of saying bird banders should kill them.

I understand the science behind these dictates, and yet, are we applying a Band-Aid

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It’s disturbingly easy to see these doves as noxious and unwanted.

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to a gaping environmental wound? Might it help to peel back the outer layers of the ecological onion, the ones which simply point to symptoms, like a rise in invasive species? Can we investigate the core causes for these imbalances and not just shoot the messengers? And, as specialists lose to generalists in the survival-of-thefittest race, can we be curious about what impacts to our psyches the dwindling of these species brings? Maybe most important,

I wonder what gets chipped away of our own humanity as we are left with a less biodiverse planet.

WHETHER YOU PREFER “VARIETY is the spice of life” or “variety is the soul of pleasure,” this proverb apparently includes birds. Wickersham says an abundance of monoculture (i.e., loads of Eurasian collared doves) does not replace the beauty nor the necessity of ecological variety. She points to multiple

published studies suggesting that much is lost as biodiversity declines.

The German Center for Integrative Biodiversity Research found, through studying 26,000 people in 26 European countries, that exposure to bird diversity was directly connected to happiness. Additionally, when viewable birds increased by 10 percent, that raised the level of life satisfaction on par with a 10 percent increase in income. The irony is not lost on me that a standard rubric for determining happiness is via increases in income: My husband recently announced, “I just saw a goldfinch; that’s like an extra 50 bucks in my pocket.”

Humans who are willing to look can see that temperatures are increasing, forests are burning with higher intensity, and sea levels are rising. But it’s harder to quantify the impacts to our psyches of losing biodiversity. That 13 percent of Americans are currently taking antidepressants suggests that, collectively, we are not well. To me, it seems possible that much of this shared grief is hard to name because most of us don’t know what we’ve lost.

Leading theories suggest that spending time observing a variety of birds returns to us some of what’s missing, like locating pieces of our humanity at the lost-and-found of our own well-being. Viewing birds, some of the planet’s most accessible wildlife, may be a strategy for reassembling the building blocks of our happiness, which include, but are not limited to, reclaiming our attention, sense of awe, and place of belonging within wild communities.

In an entirely unscientific study of one participant, I have been taking what I call bird walks along Durango’s Animas River and finding my focus delightfully swept up into, well, birds. Is that a Townsend’s solitaire belting operatic warbles from the top of that spruce? Does every mallard have a breeding partner? And, for whom does the blue-winged teal flash the hidden gems of its turquoise feathers, only visible in flight?

Seeking out the streaky-breasted song sparrow flitting about the willows has been an antidote to the smartphone song of notifications pinging me out of the present moment. And, according to Johann Hari’s Stolen Focus: Why You Can’t Pay Attention and How to Think Deeply Again, that’s a good thing, because American teenagers can focus on one task for a total of 65 seconds at a time. Adults fare only slightly better. In his widely read 2022 book, Hari cites studies that show that the ongoing degradation of our focus affects our ability to be in states of flow and actually shaves points off our IQs.

ILLUSTRATION BY PIERRE MORNET

Where art, music, architecture, and nature merge at the edge of Montana’s Beartooth Mountains.

Experience works by Alexander Calder, Patrick Dougherty, Isabelle Johnson, Francis Kéré, Ensamble Studio, Alexander Liberman, Louise Nevelson, Mark di Suvero, Stephen Talasnik, Marie Watt, Ai Weiwei

The Beartooth Portal —Ensamble Studio

Call me nerdy, but the chance of sightings exists on par with the dopamine dispenser of social media “likes.” Wickersham concurs. “That’s what’s exciting about birds; they move so readily you never know who’s going to show up,” she says. In Dr. Dacher Keltner’s 2023 book, Awe: The New Science of Everyday Wonder and How It Can Transform Your Life, he explains that awe relaxes our nervous system, triggers the release of feel-good hormones, and deactivates our preoccupation with ourselves.

I’m doubtful that watching a posse of foraging Eurasian collared doves will ever produce a rush of hormones and the same wonder as, say, the brief, biannual stopovers of white-crowned sparrows on their way to the high country, which always merit texts to my husband. “The white-crowned sparrow is here!” I gush, as if our own fledged child has returned home. But I also ponder if my children’s children’s children will, out of that inexplicable need to relate to wild species, actually be delighted by Eurasian collared doves, their propensity to withstand and adapt ensuring the doves a spot in the futuristic field guide Birds Who Can Hack the Heat, Drought, Superstorms, and the Unknown.

Perhaps the hardest thing to examine— unlike the way a 10 percent increase in income equates to an electric bill paid—is the sense of being less alone that occurs when we’re connected to our landscape and its inhabitants. For four months, my husband and I lived at the Denver Ronald McDonald House while our premature son was in the neonatal intensive care unit. Every morning, we took the shuttle to the hospital, then walked home through City Park. In our strange new world of beeping machines, touching in on the familiar and consistent configurations of grebes, mallards, and massive cormorants wrapped us in community.

The expansion of the Eurasian collared dove is likely attributable to several factors: humans’ desires to transport wildlife, the changing climate, and development’s encroachment on wild lands. This bird’s presence can wake us up to what we’ve already lost and what’s still at risk of disappearing. I don’t harbor particularly warm feelings for these opportunistic, gray-feathered friends, but I can’t help but think that there’s got to be a way to expand upon the singular strategy of unlimited killing of invasive doves. In an effort to move toward a revival of care toward native

birds, we could let our lawns grow wilder to support insect populations. We could keep our cats indoors. We could reduce the widespread use of pesticides and herbicides. The list goes on. These habits, of course, would not hinder the doves, but we could do it for our benefit or for the benefit of all birds. Either way, everyone wins.

THE DOVE, AFTER STEEPING for a few hours in oil, vinegar, and tamari, is stewed with an accompaniment of potatoes, carrots, and onions. Water simmers against the ultrafresh body, steaming the house with meaty fragrance while my husband and I sip wine and the kids play and bicker.

When the stew is ready, my husband fishes out the soft, tiny heart and offers it to our son. It is a one-gulp organ, dense and sweet. The dove tastes wild, like chicken that lived on its own terms, uncaged and rich and deeply flavorful. There is a bit of breast meat for everyone, which we quietly savor, each of us perhaps contemplating life and death and every complex station in between. m

Rachel Turiel is a Durango-based freelance writer. Email feedback to letters@5280.com.

Frontier History. Cowboy Heritage. Craft CULTURE. The Great Outdoors. The Nature of the West. 1.1

million acres of pristine wildland in the Bighorn National Forest, encompassing 1,200 miles of trails, 30 campgrounds, 10 picnic areas, 6 mountain lodges, legendary dude ranches, and hundreds of miles of waterways. The Bighorns offer limitless outdoor recreation opportunities.

101

restaurants, bars, food trucks, lounges, breweries, distilleries, tap rooms, saloons, and holes in the wall are spread across Sheridan County. That’s 101 different ways to apres adventure in the craft capital of Wyoming. We are also home to more than 40 hotels, motels, RV parks, and B&Bs.

seasons in which to get WYO’d. If you’re a skijoring savant, you’ll want to check out the Winter Rodeo in February. July features the beloved Sheridan WYO Rodeo. Spring and fall are the perfect time to chase cool mountain streams or epic backcountry lines.

Sheridan features a thriving, historic downtown district, with western allure, hospitality and good graces to spare; a vibrant arts scene; bombastic craft culture; a robust festival and events calendar; and living history from one corner of the county to the next.

HORNITOS TEQUILA

HORNITOS MARGARITA

A simple, yet classic cocktail. Try fun flavors such as spicy, passion fruit, blood orange, and mango.

INGREDIENTS

2 parts Hornitos Plata or Reposado

3/4 part Agave Syrup

3/4 Fresh Squeezed Lime Juice

Glass: Rocks

INSTRUCTIONS

Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice, shake, and strain into a rocks glass over fresh ice.

IRISH AMERICAN MULE

Enjoy a twist on this refreshing summer cocktail, made with a new style of whiskey.

INGREDIENTS

1 ½ oz Keeper’s Heart Irish + American Whiskey

1/3 oz Fresh Lime Juice

Ginger Beer, to top

INSTRUCTIONS

In order given, add ingredients to copper mug, finishing with ginger beer.

Top with crushed ice, stir briefly to mix, then add more ice in a dome over the top.

Garnish with a reusable straw.

TOTAL BEVERAGE

TEQUILA SUNRISE

If you don’t have sunshine, make some with this not-so-traditional Tequila Sunrise recipe.

INGREDIENTS

1/2 cup Resposado Tequila

1 cup Light Beer

1 cup Orange Juice

2 oz Grenadine

Orange Wedges

Garnish: Cherries

INSTRUCTIONS

In a pitcher, stir together the tequila, beer, and orange juice. Fill four glasses with ice.

Pour the orange juice mixture over the ice until almost full.

Add a splash of grenadine to each glass (about 1/2 oz each) and garnish with cherries.

BRECKENRIDGE DISTILLERY

SUMMER OF APRÈS

Summer is calling with this fresh blackberry and lavender Breckenridge Gin cocktail.

INGREDIENTS

1½ oz Breckenridge Gin

1½ oz Blackberry Lavender Shrub*

3/4 oz Fresh Lime Juice

Tonic

Garnish: Lucky Sorrel

*Blackberry Lavender Shrub: Over medium heat add 1-½ cup water, 6 oz blackberries, 3 oz monk fruit sweetener, 2 oz blackberry balsamic vinegar and 2 oz Colorado honey. Muddle blackberries. Stir until sweetener is dissolved. Add 1 Tbsp dried lavender and stir. Turn off heat and let rest 10 minutes. Strain, bottle and refrigerate.

INSTRUCTIONS

Shake top 3 ingredients with ice. Strain over pebble ice and top with tonic and orange peel.

KEEPER’S HEART

UME BLOSSOM

Fruity, tart, and light. Pairs perfectly with Bamboo’s Shiso Plum Shiromi Signature Sashimi.

INGREDIENTS

1 ½ oz Pueblo Blanco

1/4 oz Cointreau

3/4 oz Ume Shrub

1/2 Lemon Juice

1/4 Yuzu Juice

Ume and Flake Salt Rim

INSTRUCTIONS

Combine all ingredients. Shake hard, strain into coupe.

1/2 ume and flake salt rim.

4-6 drops of gochugaru oil with dropper.

CUCUMBER MARGARITA

A refreshing twist on a classic margarita. With each sip, you’ll taste the crisp and cool cucumber notes that perfectly complement the zesty lime and smooth tequila.

INGREDIENTS

4 oz Fresh Cucumber Juice

2 oz Fresh Squeezed Lime Juice

1 ½ oz Suerte Blanco Tequila

1/2 oz Splash of Simple Syrup

Garnish: Cucumber slice or lime wedge

INSTRUCTIONS

Rim a glass with salt by running a lime wedge around the rim of the glass, then dipping it into a small dish of salt. In a cocktail shaker, muddle chopped cucumber. Add tequila, fresh lime juice, simple syrup, and ice to the cocktail shaker.wShake vigorously for about 15 seconds to combine and chill the ingredients. Strain the mixture into a glass filled with ice. Garnish with a cucumber slice or a lime wedge, and enjoy!

Beat the heat of summer with one of these refreshing local cocktails. Make them at home or visit the locations and ask for their Summer Sip. #5280SummerSip

SUNNY SIDE

So the Sunny Side is: bright, light, and refreshing. It’s the perfect addition to a summer brunch or an afternoon on the porch.

INGREDIENTS

1 ½ oz Spirit Hound Gin

1/2 oz Lavender Syrup*

1/2 dropper Orange Peel Bitters

3 oz Orange Juice

Large splash club soda to fill Garnish: Orange Twist

*Lavender Syrup: 1/3 cup dried lavender flowers

4 cups hot water

4 cups sugar

Add hot water to lavender; stir and let rest for a couple of minutes. Add sugar while water is still hot, stir to combine. Let sit overnight; strain flowers out the next day.

INSTRUCTIONS

Add ice to fill glass, then add all ingredients. Stir to combine, then garnish with an expressed orange peel.

LUNAZUL CANTARITO

Discover the most authentic cocktail of Tequila, Mexico: the Cantarito!

INGREDIENTS

2 oz Lunazul Blanco Tequila

3/4 oz Grapefruit Juice

1/2 oz Orange Juice

1/2 oz Fresh Lime Juice

1 pinch of salt

1 teaspoon Agave Syrup

3 oz Grapefruit Soda

Tajín Seasoning Rim

Garnish: Lime or Grapefruit Wheel

INSTRUCTIONS

Rim the lip of a glass or mug with Tajín seasoning. Add Lunazul Tequila, fruit juices, agave syrup, and salt into a shaker with ice and shake until well chilled. Strain into the prepared vessel over fresh ice. Top with the grapefruit soda and stir briefly and gently to combine. Garnish with a lime or grapefruit wheel.

SPIRIT HOUND

LUNAZUL TEQUILA

MCDEVITT TACO SUPPLY

BAMBOO SUSHI

In Utah, Open Sky Zion’s Star Seeker Superior Luxury tent (at right) comes with a view and access to a cozy hot tub for two.

Comfort

EDITED BY DALIAH SINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY WHIT RICHARDSON

ZO NE

Forget sleeping on the ground and digging holes to you-know-what. Glamping—camping’s high-class cousin—has taken off across the West, with canvas tents, Airstream trailers, treehouses, and other abodes connecting you to nature while still providing ample luxury. Here, the best places to give glamorous camping a try in Colorado and beyond.

CampV

I’ve never been to Burning Man. But lying on CampV’s floating dock in my swimsuit while EDM blared through speakers onshore and people danced barefoot, I got a sense of what the annual Nevada festival might be like. The similarity in vibe wasn’t all that surprising: Natalie Binder, one of the founders of CampV, a two-year-old outdoor retreat in Naturita, says she was inspired to build community and energize people in this rural part of Colorado through art.

Our accommodation for the weekend certainly was creative: a futuristic-looking Jupe (basically a rectangular, elevated tent) made of Baltic birch and wrapped in canvas. It sat among five other Jupes, 12 cabins, four luxury tents, three Airstreams, and RV and tent sites on land that once composed a company town, where 1940s-era cabins housed engineers who worked at a nearby uranium mill. The property also has a stand-alone bathhouse with two separate restrooms; a large field with a fire pit; a 2.5-mile, on-property mountain biking and hiking loop; and—in true Burning Man fashion—nearly a dozen art installations.

Locals have learned to book stays here to coincide with CampV’s events, such as regular live music or the musicand-art Planet V Fest held over Memorial Day weekend. However, my husband and I were there seeking something else: relaxation and spotty Wi-Fi.

We were (hallelujah!) mostly able to disconnect and were pleased to find that while the Jupes were more rustic than many glampsites we’ve experienced, there was a queensize bed, solar lighting and charging outlets, clean drinking water in a jug, and a private deck. The composting toilets were an easy walk away, and the shower was perfectly serviceable. The setting felt rugged enough that we left our food in a cooler in our car so as not to entice wildlife, but rugged is relative: There were lattes, breakfast burritos, and booze for sale at the CampV bar, and one morning, we ordered breakfast in bed. There was plenty to do on-site besides eat, too. We walked 10 minutes up the gravel driveway from our Jupe for yoga and a sound bath in one of the historical, still-standing water tanks from mill times. Then we wandered into the “Prairie Wind Chapel,” an artwork composed of three organs set up in a churchlike tent that originally was built for 2015’s Burning Man festival.

As the sun dropped, we strolled back up the hill to watch the stars turn on one by one, then dozens at a time, from a blanketed pillow bed laid out for us in the same openair water tank. Viewed through the circular top, the array of celestial bodies felt like a private show, one we likely wouldn’t get at the real Burning Man. —DS

IF YOU GO

Season: Mid-May through October

Cost: Jupes start at $165 per night

Getting There: From Denver, take U.S. 6 west to I-70 west. Drive 235 miles to exit 37 toward Grand Junction. Turn left onto CO 141; after five miles, take another left onto U.S. 50 east, then turn right onto CO 141 south. CampV sits about 90 miles down the highway. The trip takes about 5.5 hours.

Pro Tip: Treat yourself to the Stargazing & Snuggles package ($75). In addition to providing the blankets and pillows, the staff will outfit your water tank with locally made hot cider (ask for some whiskey to top it off), warm chocolate chip cookies, and a star-finder chart.

1. Frontier Drive-Inn

A former 1950s drive-in turned glampground that still shows outdoor movies and allows dogs? Count us in. This San Luis Valley site reopened last summer, and its events—like live performances, art installations, and the aforementioned flicks—add a touch of culture to one’s yurt or converted Steelmaster shed stay.

2. Sun Outdoors

Rocky Mountains Families will love this expansive Granby resort for its pool, hot tubs, pickleball and basketball courts, mini

bowling alley, and on-site restaurants. They’ll also dig the fact that the Airstreams, tiny homes, and Conestoga wagons are situated away from any RV generators.

3. Camp Eddy Chic tiny homes and Airstreams line the banks of the Colorado River at this new glampsite in Grand Junction. Mingle with fellow adventurers at the Hub, a central gathering space with comfy couches, laundry facilities, showers, and plenty of games. Dog owners can liberate Fido at the off-leash dog park.

This spread, clockwise from above: Stand-up paddleboarding on CampV’s lake; relaxing on a Jupe’s front porch; chips, guacamole, and tamales from Wild Gal’s Market; “Prairie Wind Chapel” on CampV’s grounds

3 MORE CAN’T-MISS GLAMPSITES IN COLORADO

Bodhi Farms

Until I had kids, my sleeping-under-the-stars MO was relatively Spartan. Hike straight uphill for 15 miles, choke down something resembling dinner, and fall into an exhausted slumber on a too-short sleeping pad—sans pillow. Leaving all the stuff behind was, I thought, the whole point of being outside.

I sought an updated perspective at Bodhi Farms, a working organic farm with nine glamping tents in the rural outskirts of Bozeman: Perhaps, I thought, actual beds would have a role to play in successful family camping. So, on a warm day in September, our foursome hauled one of the farm’s stroller wagons—heaped with storybooks and puzzles—to our creekside Nordic-style tipi. Inspired by the ones the Sami people of Scandinavia once slept in while herding reindeer, it was reminiscent of a traditional Native American shelter but with two extended foyers at each door. We unzipped the flap to reveal a king-size bed plus a kid cot, leather butterfly chairs, festive lightbulbs dangling from the crossbars, and a supremely photogenic coffee bar (no other food allowed, per grizzly country protocol).

“Camp” having been set up for me, I found myself with an unusual perk: downtime. I set off for a stroll around the 35-acre property. I came across the “meditation island,” a grassy park set aside for quiet reflection, and tiptoed past a lone woman doing sun salutations in the open-sided yoga shala tipi. Just beyond her sat the spa tipi. I immediately regretted not pre-booking a massage.

My mourning didn’t last too long, as our dinner reservation at the on-site Field Kitchen loomed. We followed a path from our tent past the swimming pond and the pigpen and henhouse (which supply eggs and meat to the restaurant). A host welcomed us to a shaded picnic table, where I was soon sipping rosé and digging into a smoked trout salad. The kids were thrilled with huckleberry lemonades and cheesy bread with a side of carrots that were grown a few feet away.

After a slice of honey cake for dessert and hot showers in the communal bathhouse tipi, we flipped on our space heater and tucked in the kids. While we weren’t literally sleeping under the stars, we’d still had the chance to get dirty, eat outside, and read bedtime stories by the light of the setting sun. The whole experience was undoubtedly more relaxing than typical family camping trips. And the pillows weren’t half-bad, either.

—Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan

IF YOU GO

Season: May through mid-October

Cost: $225 to $525 per night (two-night minimum in summer)

Getting There: Bodhi Farms is a 10.5- to 11hour drive from Denver.

(Perk: You can cruise through Yellowstone National Park on the way.)

United and Southwest airlines fly nonstop to Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport; rent a car for the 30-minute drive or call an Uber or Lyft.

Pro Tip: Book add-on experiences such as massages ($140 to $200), community sauna day sessions ($40), drop-in yoga classes ($20), or fly-fishing lessons ($60) a few weeks before your visit to guarantee a spot.

Cool: the canvas glamping tents, complete with screened porches and gratis cruiser bikes, set up along Rock Creek in Philipsburg. Cooler: the cozy, covered Conestoga wagons, with king-size beds that give upscale Little House on the Prairie vibes.

Gather ’round the nightly group campfire (free s’mores and cocktails included), then settle into your well-appointed tipi at this new resort five miles north of Yellowstone National Park.

This spread, clockwise from top left: Courtesy of Bodhi Farms; Courtesy of Clear Sky Resorts; Courtesy of the PhotoCopp

1. The Ranch at Rock Creek

2. Dreamcatcher Tipis

2 MORE CAN’T-MISS GLAMPSITES IN MONTANA

From top: Hammocking outside of one of Bodhi Farms’ glamping tipis; tending to the on-property gardens

Clear Sky Resorts—

the venue a perfect family retreat. They’re also a bit more inviting than your average groupsize tent, thanks to soaring ceilings, hardwood floors, bathrooms with rain showers, and panoramic windows ideal for nature viewing.

The 80-acre resort offers plenty to do outdoors while your camera charges after capturing those Grand Canyon views. There’s a disc golf course; an adult-ready playground with a massive bounce pillow, a volleyball court, and a giant tricycle track; and nightly events like live music, astronomy talks, and Native American flute-making. Nearby, the Lava River Cave offers a chance to scramble through a nearly mile-long, 700,000-year-old tunnel created by erupted molten rock.

When you get peckish, hit up the on-site food truck for American fusion food. Or drive 30 minutes into the town of Williams to pick up souvenirs and unwind at one of the diners scattered along this remaining stretch of Route 66, a more recent slice of history once considered the Main Street of America. —DS

IF YOU GO

Season: April 27 through November 11

Cost: $350 to $750 per night

Getting There: Clear Sky is an 11.5-hour drive from the Mile High City. Nonstop flights are available to Las Vegas and Phoenix, both of which are a threeto four-hour drive from the property.

Pro Tip: Book the two-person Stairway to the Stars sky dome to catch some sleep in a suspended bed directly under a skylight perfect for eyeballing the heavens.

Not much compares to seeing billions of years of history and 4,000 feet of rock unfold before you from a vantage point on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. It’s an otherworldly change of scenery, even after hours spent driving by the striated red cliffs that populate the northern reaches of Arizona. Another twist in the landscape: Clear Sky Resorts’ 45 geodesic domes, which rest like a tiny Martian city in the high desert 25-ish minutes south of the national park.

The steel, canvas, and faux-leather domes all have kitschy themes—from secret agent to space galaxy—and sleep from two to seven people, making

generations. You can stay on the property year-round in accommodations such as bell tents, sheepherder wagons, traditional hogan dwellings, or the Kyoob (a steel cube).

Under Canvas is the undisputed queen bee of glamping retreats. This location sees its safari-style tents (with king beds) set against a backdrop of Utah’s orange-, red-, and yellowhued canyons and mesas.

1. Shash Diné EcoRetreat Baya and Paul Meehan built this off-grid bedand-breakfast on Navajo Nation land that’s been stewarded by Baya’s family for more than 15

2. Under Canvas Lake Powell–Grand Staircase

2 MORE CAN’T-MISS GLAMPSITES IN ARIZONA

Clear Sky Resorts has 45 geodesic domes, some of which sleep up to seven people.

Ojo Caliente

MINERAL SPRINGS RESORT & SPA

I’ve learned over years of travel to put very little faith in how a place markets itself. So, I gave little credence to Ojo Caliente’s self-promotion as a “legendary refuge.”

I need not have worried about being disenchanted. As soon as I pulled into the 155-year-old hot springs resort, the smell of piñon wood burning in the outdoor fire pits, the look of the adobe-style buildings, and the ubiquity of guests wearing fluffy robes and relaxed faces hinted that this New Mexican haven was as storied as advertised.

Located roughly 40 miles west of Taos, Ojo Caliente offers guests 10 lodging options, the hippest of which are five new Airstream-style campers parked just a short walk from the hot springs, gift shop, lobby, and on-site bar and restaurant, Artesian. My 160-square-foot trailer lived in that liminal space between a brick-and-mortar guest room and a nylon tent. It had a photo-worthy mid-mod vibe, plus a private covered patio with a hammock, but it was the brilliant use of space—a living room, kitchenette, bathroom with a spacious shower, and queen-size bed—that made me giddy I’d forgone one of the resort’s tent sites.

Nestled at the cliffy base of a scrubbrush-freckled mesa, the setting felt slightly untamed. I heard animal noises at night; I could see a zillion stars; and I thought twice before leaving my hiking boots on the patio, lest a tarantula decide to take up residence. But I was able to balance those camping-esque experiences with the indulgences of mussels for dinner, a glass of prosecco, and a flatscreen at the foot of my bed.

Of course, the Ancestral Puebloan people, who lived here starting around 1200, knew that a cozy place to sleep wasn’t the real reason to visit Ojo Caliente. For centuries, more than 100,000 gallons of sulfur-free geothermal water have flowed from a volcanic aquifer each day and created pools with high levels of iron, soda, arsenic, and lithia—minerals thought to heal the body and the mind. Today, the resort corrals these waters into 12 soakers, with temperatures that range from 80 to 105 degrees, and also offers a steam room, sauna, relaxation room, and spa for massage treatments.

Finding respite is unmistakably the theme of Ojo Caliente. While traditional camping can deliver that, too, I have to admit that my vintage trailer was custom-built to supply just the right ratio of roughing it to relaxing in it. A legendary refuge, indeed. —Lindsey B. King

This spread, clockwise from above: Soaking in the resort’s hot springs; one of Ojo Caliente’s vintage trailers; pottery shards from a nearby village once inhabited by Tewa Indians; happy hour on the trailer’s porch

IF YOU GO

Season: Year-round

Cost: Vintage trailers start at $229 per night with a two-night minimum

Getting There: From Denver, take I-25 south to Walsenburg, where you’ll pick up U.S. 160 toward Alamosa. In Alamosa, take U.S. 285 south all the way to Ojo Caliente. The drive takes roughly five hours and 15 minutes.

Pro Tip: Trailheads lead directly from the resort property to a network of hiking trails that wind around the adjacent mesa. Most of the treks fall into the moderately difficult category, but signs are sparse and it’s easy to miss necessary turns. The Tewa, Rincon, and Joseph’s Mine trails are all winners for scenery, but the P’osi Trail offers a look at the Posi-Ouinge archeological site, a village once inhabited by the Tewa Indians, whose descendants now live in the Espanola area.

3 MORE CAN’T-MISS GLAMPSITES IN NEW MEXICO

1. Heritage Inspirations

This New Mexico travel company offers everything from walking tours to e-biking journeys, but it’s the company’s ultraluxurious glamping adventures near Taos, Abiquiu, and Chaco Canyon that stand out. In 2023, book a Taos-based Perseid meteor shower trip (August 13 to 14) or an autumnal equinox vacation to Chaco

Culture National Historical Park (September 22 to 23).

2. RidgeWalk Treehouse

If you’re at all into Swiss Family Robinson, RidgeWalk Treehouse in Angel Fire is a must. The

only-accessible-bylots-of-stairs elevated cabin sleeps four, rests on a six-acre property at 9,200 feet that begs for exploration, and provides spectacular views of the surrounding Moreno Valley.

Located in Truth or Consequences, Glamp Camp provides a buffet of camping-adjacent options, including vintage RVs, a yurt, and a dome. The real perks of staying here, though, are the natural hot springs on-site. Plus, the property lies within walking distance of downtown’s restaurants, breweries, and museums.

3. Hot Springs Glamp Camp

OJO

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEN JUDGE

Fireside Resort

WILSON, WYOMING

Distance From Denver 516 miles

Glamping has come to encompass any sort of lodging that falls in between a tent/camper/RV and a hotel. Yurt? Glamping. Treehouse? Glamping. Airstream trailer? Glamping. Fireside Resort, seven miles southwest of Jackson, straddles whatever fine line is left. A former KOA campground, the locale was converted into a modern campsite with 23 minuscule cabins and RV sites in 2011.

The striking tiny homes—designed for groups of four to six—trace the drive as you enter the property, which lies in the quiet woods beyond bustling downtown Jackson and the ski village. The glamour of these accommodations comes in the form of a kitchenette, a private deck with a gas grill for making your own campfire-adjacent food, a walk-in shower, electric floor heaters, a propane fireplace, and coffee from Snake River Roasting Co. Within walking distance of your front door, you’ll discover a 15-person hot tub and a small grocery that sells the basics, such as organic eggs, bacon, butter, and ice cream. The rustic—read: camping—part of your stay is a little more ambiguous. There are the obligatory private fire pits for s’mores-making and… that’s about it.

Well, that’s about it if you don’t include the surroundings, which, of course, you must. Jackson is one of the most popular gateways to Yellowstone National Park, and many guests overnight in the area during a road trip between the country’s first national park and the closer Grand Teton National Park. But you don’t have to leave the surrounding valley to go adventuring. The Snake River, which winds below the Teton Range, is a bucket-list stop for whitewater rafting and fly-fishing, while Slide Lake is a 50-minute drive from the property and provides access to stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking, easy hiking, and trout fishing. (Flew to town? Fireside rents out Jeep Cherokees for around $200 per day.) Horseback riding, hot air balloon rides, wildlife safaris—it’s all within reach of the resort. And that’s the biggest thing we ask of a campsite, right? Proximity to the best Mother Nature has to offer. —DS

IF YOU GO

Season: Year-round, with the exception of short closures in November and April

Cost: From $500 per night

Getting There: Drive 8.5 hours to Fireside or fly nonstop to Jackson Hole via United Airlines; the property is about 15 miles from the airport.

Bring Your Furry Pal: Fireside is dog-friendly, with up to two hounds allowed in each cabin ($75 for one doggo, $125 for two).

2 MORE CAN’T-MISS GLAMPSITES IN WYOMING

1. Spruce Mountain Fire Lookout Tower

Live as the rangers do and spend the night 55 feet in the air in Medicine Bow National Forest.

The historical tower is what we’d call glamping lite: It’s outfitted with two single beds, cookware, and a propane heater and cookstove. (Water and electricity are not part of the deal.)

2.

Glamping of Jackson Hole

Just 20 minutes outside the tony town of Jackson, in Bridger-Teton National Forest, you’ll find six safari-style tents decked out with memory foam beds and solar lighting. After a day of horseback riding or mountain biking, sit down to rustic Western food and views of the Snake River Range.

From left: Fireside Resort’s tiny homes may be small, but upscale finishes and smart design make them feel luxurious; one of Fireside’s tiny homes, tucked among trees

Tammah

YELLOWSTONE

ISLAND PARK, IDAHO

The first thing you’ll notice is the welcome mat. Then, you’ll push the canvas flaps open and think you must be looking at one of those charmed tents from the Harry Potter universe. How else does one explain fitting a king-size bed (topped with a Utahmade-and-manufactured mattress), coffee table, nightstands, garment rack, patio chairs, cooler, and, in the family suite, bunk beds, all in a raised-platform tent? It’s not sorcery, however—it’s just the magic

of Tammah Yellowstone, which opened in a pine-tree-lined meadow in southeastern Idaho in 2022. (In addition to 14 tents, there is one dome available to overnight in.)

The property itself has a resort-meetssummer-camp vibe, with a general store, lounges, communal fire pits, and, for better or worse, Wi-Fi hot spots. Flushing toilets and hot showers are available in shared facilities. Heat comes from propane-powered stoves, and there are battery-powered LED lamps in lieu of actual electricity. Close to their (temporary) homes, guests can fly-fish or raft along Henrys Fork of the Snake River, ride ATVs on hundreds of miles of off-road trails directly from Tammah, or play the on-site, three-hole disc golf course. An outdoor, shared kitchen makes for easy meal prep if you brought provisions, and restaurants in Island Park and West Yellowstone are also nearby. (Food is not allowed in the tents due to ursine neighbors.)

When you do manage to leave the property, you’ll want to pack up the car for a long day of exploring. The west side of Yellowstone National Park—and the closest entrance to some of its top stops, including Old Faithful and Grand Prismatic Spring— is a quick 20-minute drive away. At the end of your adventures, you’ll be thankful to escape the crowds back at camp, where a warm bonfire awaits and hundreds of uninhabited acres set the scene for a different kind of bewitchment. —DS

IF YOU GO

Season: June to midSeptember

Cost: From $189 per night

Getting There: It’s a 10-plus-hour drive to reach this southeastern corner of Idaho, but United Airlines flies to Idaho Falls Regional Airport, about 1.5 hours from the camp. (Jackson Hole Airport, which United also services, is 2.5 hours away.)

Coming Soon: A second Tammah location is slated to open in Jackson Hole this summer.

2 MORE CAN’T-MISS GLAMPSITES IN IDAHO

1. Linn Canyon Ranch

Enjoy all the perks of staying at a family-owned ranch—horseback riding, gourmet meals, campfires—while basking in the solitude of an electrified tent at this property in southeastern Idaho’s Victor.

2. Wander Camp Yellowstone

Just 25 minutes from Yellowstone sits a handful of tents on a working ranch. The rustic, off-the-grid accommodations are still outfitted with king- or twinsize beds, plus there’s an on-site food truck.

From top: Luxury tent accommodations at Tammah Yellowstone; s’mores by the fire

This spread, from left: Courtesy of Fireside Resort (2); Courtesy of Chris Nicholes; Courtesy of Jessica Ruscello

Open Sky ZION

“What part of camping does it include?” It was a fair question for my friend to text in response to the video I’d sent her of my “tent.” I opened the door to find two beds (one with a stargazing window), a dresser, a fireplace, a minifridge, and air conditioning and heat. The en suite bathroom was outfitted with a clawfoot copper soaking tub, heated floors, a toilet, and indoor and outdoor showers. Aside from the hiking boots I’d tossed on the (real wood) floor, this experience was a multiverse away from anyone’s vision of camping.

That’s what the team behind Open Sky Zion intended when it opened the glampsite in southwestern Utah in 2021. The property lies within Greater Zion, a 2,400-square-mile region that claims to house the largest collection of glamping resorts in the country. To set itself apart, Open Sky doubled down on luxury, including at its restaurant, Black Sage. During dinner on my first night, I warmed up with a roasted pumpkin bisque, topped with crispy sage and a sweet bourbon syrup, as well as a grass-fed steak, from nearby Mineral Springs Beef, served with local mushrooms. But I skipped dessert in exchange for a different kind of treat: a long soak in that heavenly copper tub.

The outdoorsy part of my trip began in the morning. Zion National Park is the second-most-visited national park in the country, but I avoided crowds by staying just outside its perimeter and finding excursions through the Greater Zion Convention & Tourism Office, an Open Sky partner. Red cliffs filled my car window as I drove to meet my guide from Utah Adventure Center for a trip along the via ferrata that traverses part of the Kolob Canyons on the park’s border ($130 to $390 per person). It was late in the season, so it was just him and me scaling the striated cliffs that compose the two-plus-mile route.

As a woman who has always been hesitant to camp alone, I found that Open Sky granted me the freedom of the outdoors alongside the security of a hotel. The following day, I worked my quads during a 5.7-mile out-and-back hike along the Eagle Crags Trail and a meandering walk through the abandoned ghost town of Grafton, then rinsed off in my outdoor shower as a gentle breeze blew through the canyon. At night, on the recommendation of the Open Sky team, I bundled up for a two-hour, astronomer-led sky tour courtesy of Stargazing Zion ($150 per person) before returning to my temporary home, curling up in my king-size bed, and gazing through a perfectly placed skylight as those very same stars lulled me to sleep. If that’s not a quintessential camping experience, I don’t know what is. —DS

IF YOU GO

Season: March 1 through November 30

Cost: From $599 per night

Getting There: Open Sky is a 10-hour drive from Denver. United Airlines flies nonstop from Denver International Airport to St. George Regional Airport; rental cars are available for the one-hour drive.

Dining Out: The towns of La Verkin, Virgin, and Springdale are close enough to cover all your meals, and grab-and-go breakfast at Open Sky is complimentary. We recommend caffeinating at FeelLove Coffee and eating fried chicken sandwiches at Camp Outpost (both in Springdale), enjoying pizza at River Rock Roasting Company (in La Verkin), and indulging in upscale Southwestern fare at Balcony One (in Virgin).

Glamping leader

Under Canvas, which has 12 properties across the country, took things up a notch with the March debut of Ulum. The safari-inspired, West Elm–furnished tents overlook Canyonlands National Park, and the property’s 200 acres encompass dipping pools, fullservice dining, and plenty of wellness programming, including free yoga.

With its collection of Airstreams, highend tents, and cabins, this month-old glampsite has something to keep every camper happy. The fully outfitted trailers are the

most coveted accommodations, though, with queen-size beds, walk-in rain showers, heat and air conditioning, and kitchenettes.

The family-owned retreat, located about 40 minutes south of Moab, ups the glamping ante with sleek designs, including a familyfriendly option that sleeps four. We’re also suckers for the on-site sauna, French press coffee delivered each morning, and the owners’ environmental efforts (including running the entire place on solar power). m

This spread, clockwise from above: Hiking on the nearby Margarita Trail; Open Sky’s Star Seeker Superior Luxury tent; charcuterie board on the patio; skylight for stargazing in one of Open Sky’s glamping tents

1. Ulum Moab

2. AutoCamp Zion

3 MORE CAN’T-MISS GLAMPSITES IN UTAH

3. Glamping Canyonlands

THE FALL OF ROE V. WADE—WHICH HAPPENED ONE YEAR AGO THIS MONTH—HAS AFFECTED, AND WILL CONTINUE TO HAVE AN IMPACT ON, COLORADANS AND THOSE WHO TRAVEL TO THE CENTENNIAL STATE FOR ABORTION CARE. HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW, NO MATTER YOUR STANCE. /// BY LINDSEY B. KING

ILLUSTRATIONS BY HANNA BARCZYK

A CITADEL OF CHOICE

The text message simply read, “Fuck Texas.” Rebecca Cohen looked up from her phone, took a sip of her chai latte, and said, “I get a lot of these in my line of work.” Still, Cohen, a Denver OB-GYN, thought this particular expletive, received in mid-February, might’ve been about more than another pregnant person being denied health care in the Lone Star State. The 42-year-old abortion clinician pulled up Google. “I wonder if maybe the mifepristone ruling came through,” she said.

Cohen searched for a breaking news story detailing whether a Donald Trump–appointed Texas judge had decided to force a major abortion drug off the market despite longtime Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approval and a 23-year safety record. “If the judge bans mifepristone,” Cohen said, “it would be baseless and inappropriate, but appeals would go to the conservative Fifth Circuit Court of Appeals and then to the Supreme Court, which is, of course, what they want.”

Her emphasis on the word “they” was a not-so-subtle reference to the American anti-abortion movement that has, over the past 22 months, made significant progress in restricting the practice across the country. That momentum includes the U.S. Supreme Court overturning Roe v. Wade, the 1973 landmark decision that, for 50 years, had protected an American’s freedom to have an abortion. The reversal of Roe in June 2022 led to trigger laws and legislative action at the state level, which resulted in a U.S. map where 14 states have banned the practice and others have enacted varying levels of restrictions.

The Texas case, Alliance for Hippocratic Medicine v. FDA, which wasn’t ruled upon until early April, did ultimately become the most consequential anti-abortion win since Roe fell. The decision, which would’ve amounted to a ban, was immediately appealed by the FDA. A subsequent ruling by the Fifth Circuit Court of Appeals did not remove mifepristone from the U.S. market, but it put into question future access to a medication used in roughly 54 percent of abortions in this country each year by rolling back policies the FDA had put in place to expand access to the drug. Also in early April, a judge in Washington state ruled in another lawsuit that the FDA must keep the drug available in certain states, including Colorado. The discordant decisions, plus the Justice Department’s distaste for the Texas ruling, sent the question of mifepristone’s availability to the U.S.

Supreme Court. On April 21, SCOTUS said mifepristone could remain on the market with the FDA’s current policies in place as appeals proceed. That decision sent the question back to the Fifth Circuit, where, at press time, arguments were scheduled to have begun on May 17. Experts suggest that the losing party will undoubtedly appeal, once again sending the case to SCOTUS. Whatever happens, the banning or restriction of mifepristone could have even further-reaching consequences than the repeal of Roe—consequences that could disproportionately affect Colorado, as the need for surgical abortions would likely increase.

Legislature guaranteed abortion access for Coloradans by passing the Reproductive Health Equity Act, and Governor Jared Polis issued an executive order to protect out-of-state patients and Colorado providers alike from prosecutions in other states. Then, after Dobbs v. Jackson Women’s Health Organization reversed Roe, Colorado legislators passed a triad of bills—the Safe Access to Protected Health Care package—in April 2023. The measures prohibited deceptive practices at pregnancy crisis centers; created a shield law for abortion providers and patients; and forced an increase in insurance coverage for reproductive health care.

Colorado is one of only 15 states generally considered to be protective of reproductive rights, so rulings at the federal and state levels have had an outsize impact here. Nearly encircled by neighbors that have limited, if not outright denied, abortion, the Centennial State has not only continued its history of serving those who need care regardless of their home addresses (the state was the first to decriminalize abortion in 1967), but it has also further burnished its position as a beacon of choice.

In the months after the passage of Texas’ 2021 Senate Bill 8—a law that banned abortions except in the earliest weeks of pregnancy and set up a bounty system in which Texans could sue other Texans for aiding those who receive abortion care anywhere—the Colorado

The governor and the Legislature don’t operate independent of influence, though. They’ve been prompted to act by Coloradans who have not only seen the in-real-life aftermath of the Texas law and the fall of Roe, but who are also trying to provide Colorado-based solutions to Americans who have become refugees from their home states. Doctors, midwives, nonprofits, reproductive rights advocates, and everyday folks in the Centennial State—a place where voters have consistently protected the right to abortion— have been working over the past two-plus years to ensure that abortion care endures and that it’s as accessible as possible to those who need it. Here’s what they’ve been up to and what they think you need to understand.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RACHEL WOOLF

FRAGILE STATE

A by-the-numbers breakdown of abortion in Colorado.

13

, 856

Abortions performed in Colorado in 2022

THE DEFINITION OF SANCTUARY

Percentage of Colorado’s 2022 abortions that were performed by Planned Parenthood of the Rocky Mountains

2,345

14

Percentage of 2021’s 11,580 abortions that were performed in Colorado on non-Colorado residents

Texans who received abortions in Colorado in 2022; that number accounts for 60 percent of all out-of-state abortion patients. Rounding out the top three: Nearly 300 patients came from Wyoming, and almost 200 came from Oklahoma last year. (For context, only 35 Oklahomans traveled to Colorado for abortions in the three previous years combined.)

Percentage of Planned Parenthood of the Rocky Mountains’ Colorado health care services that involved abortion care before the repeal of Roe; that percentage is now hovering at 22

13.5

▼

85 28

Percentage of 2022’s 13,856 abortions that were performed in Colorado on non-Colorado residents

The laws and protections that make Colorado a haven.

■ Abortion is not restricted based on gestational age.

■ Qualified health care professionals—not just physicians—can perform abortions.

■ The 2022 Reproductive Health Equity Act codified a person’s right to use or refuse contraception and to continue or end a pregnancy; the act declared that a fetus does not have independent rights under state law.

■ The state provides protections from harassment and physical harm for anyone entering an abortion clinic.

Percentage of abortions performed in Colorado in 2022 that were at 10 weeks or fewer in gestation

Patient age range that represented the most abortions in Colorado in 2022, at 31.5 percent 82

20 –24

Late abortions, loosely defined as abortions after 20 weeks, performed in Colorado in 2021

170

487

Late abortions performed in Colorado in 2022; that accounts for four percent of that year’s 13,856 abortions

■ Passed in April, the Protections For Accessing Reproductive Health Care bill protects patients, providers, and assistors of politically targeted health care— including abortion—from interstate criminal justice threats. This bill shields these individuals from criminal prosecution and imprisonment; court summons, subpoenas, and arrests; interstate investigations, divulging information, or assistance with investigations; and professional delicensing.

■ Passed in April, the Deceptive Trade Practice Pregnancyrelated Service bill makes it illegal for so-called pregnancy crisis centers—which are typically anti-abortion—to falsely advertise that they provide abortions, emergency contraceptives, or referrals for abortions if they actually do not.

■ Passed in April, the Increasing Access To Reproductive Health Care bill requires most health insurance plans to cover the cost of medication abortion.

THOSE WHO CAN LEAST AFFORD IT

For some, the cost of traveling to get an abortion can mean forgoing the procedure— unless they find assistance.

Amanda Carlson grew up in rural northern Colorado, where having extra anything is rare. Today, Carlson says understanding financial hardship helps her relate to the clients she serves as the director of Cobalt Abortion Fund, Colorado’s largest independent provider of financial assistance to those seeking abortions. “It’s hard for people to understand that not everyone has a credit card,” she says. “Many of the people we help need help with everything. They sometimes can barely afford food, but the state where they live thinks they can somehow afford to have a child.”

Funded entirely by donations, Cobalt Abortion Fund’s coffers had, since 1984 (when it was called the Women’s Freedom Fund), mostly been directed toward assisting people with the cost of abortion procedures—and most of those people were Centennial Staters. “Texas’ SB 8 law was a litmus test for us,” Carlson says. “Colorado was inundated with Texans. Around that time, we also realized that Roe could actually fall, so we made a decision to shift more heavily into practical support.”

When the Supreme Court did overturn Roe, Cobalt Abortion Fund’s caseload tripled in fewer than 24 hours, which is perhaps not surprising considering recent national surveys that suggest 57 percent of Americans cannot afford a $1,000 emergency expense. “We were getting 25 to 30 requests a day at that time,” Carlson says. Nearly overnight, staffers at the fund became personal concierges, assisting those who needed abortion care but could not afford to travel to Colorado with airfare, hotel stays, and DoorDash gift cards. In 2021, the fund spent $6,054 on practical support; that number exploded to $221,881 in 2022. “The challenges these folks face speak to larger injustices in society,” Carlson says. “The barriers really should elicit compassion.”

FINANCIAL BARRIERS

Medication abortion $400–$800

Abortion procedure in first trimester $600–$800

Abortion procedure in second trimester $715–$2,000

Abortion procedure later in pregnancy $10,000–$25,000

Average domestic round-trip airfare $384

Average nightly stay at a Denver-area hotel $160–$180

SITUATIONAL BARRIERS

1. Some health insurance plans don’t cover abortion, especially out of state.

2. Many people seeking abortions already have children, which can mean incurring childcare costs while one or both parents are traveling.

3. Some procedures take two or three days to complete, meaning travel expenses can double or triple.

4. Many employers do not offer vacation policies; one missed shift can mean the loss of a job.

5. Those who need financial assistance have often never been on an airplane.

6. Abortion funds do not cover lost wages.

7. Even if driving to Colorado were an option—which sometimes it’s not, based on available procedure appointments and gestational time frames—many people do not have their own vehicles.

8. Finding help in languages other than English can be next to impossible.

9. Not having citizenship documentation or a stateissued ID can make interstate travel precarious.

10. Abusive or controlling partners can make out-of-state travel difficult for those experiencing domestic violence.

FUND FINDING

The National Network of Abortion Funds exists to connect people who have unwanted or unviable pregnancies with organizations that can help offset the financial outlays. The network suggests calling your insurance carrier to see if it covers some costs; making an appointment at a clinic and letting clinic staffers know you’re looking for financial assistance; determining what you can cover for the procedure and for travel on your own; searching for abortion funds in the state where your procedure will take place as well as any funds that might exist in your home state, if it’s not the same; and searching for abortion funds that provide assistance nationwide. In Colorado, Cobalt Abortion Fund, the Colorado Doula Project, and the Boulder Valley Women’s Health Center offer varying levels of financial assistance and practical support.

IT’S COMPLICATED

Since 1975, Boulder Abortion Clinic has served as a refuge for the desperate. Today’s despair is even more palpable.

Bullets ripping through his office windows. Stalkers creeping around his house. Protestors scaring his patients. Anti-abortion groups putting his name on hit lists. Dr. Warren Hern has experienced it all since he began performing abortions in Boulder in 1973, the year of Roe v. Wade. Five decades later, the 84-year-old says he’s undeterred. “Every day that I do this work,” he says, “I feel more committed to it and see it as a critical need for women.”

As a physician who will perform an abortion into the third trimester, Hern is an outlier among outliers. He is one of only a handful of U.S. doctors capable of delivering the complex medical treatment necessary for a late abortion. For decades, that has made him a hero to those who find themselves in

tragic situations: wanted pregnancies that have been found to have catastrophic fetal anomalies or complications that are threatening the lives of the mothers. Pregnancy, Hern explains, is not a benign condition. “Women die from pregnancy,” he says.

For two reasons, Hern says, that has been his biggest concern since the passage of SB 8 in Texas and the trigger bans that went into effect after the repeal of Roe. First, without easy access to abortion services in their states and with long wait times at health clinics in unrestricted states, Americans with undesired or unviable pregnancies are struggling to schedule abortions in the first trimester, when the procedure is comparatively safe and easy. “The more advanced the pregnancy,” Hern says, “the greater the risk to the woman’s life.”

Hern’s second worry is that the restrictions and bans have hindered physicians’ abilities to do their jobs when a pregnant person’s life is in danger. “[These laws] mean that women cannot get basic medical care for pregnancy,” Hern says. “If a woman has ruptured membranes at 16 to 20 weeks in any pregnancy, for example, her life is at immediate risk, and her pregnancy must be terminated immediately. There is no justification for this not happening. The laws across the country now prevent doctors from performing this relatively simple life-saving operation.”

In February and March of this year alone, Hern says he and his staff cared for several out-of-state patients who had to travel to Boulder to receive adequate care. The issue, of course, is that Hern cannot practice forever. Although he says he has no plans to stop working, he’s already well past the average retirement age for American physicians.

Hern, however, is planning for the future. He has already recruited and trained two OB-GYNs who work regular hours at the clinic—and he’s looking for others to join his practice. Hern is also hoping to expand his facilities and office staff to meet the increasing demand from patients from other states in a post-Roe world. “I love my work,” the veteran doctor says, “but I am trying to work myself out of a job”—while still making sure pregnant Americans have a place to turn.

For expectant parents, the 20-week ultrasound is a big one. It’s the first image where the parents-to-be can count all the fingers and toes—as well as have the doctor check for anomalies. Things like heart conditions, missing limbs, abnormal brain development, and genetic conditions can be diagnosed at roughly 20 weeks. Each year, about 120,000 American babies come into the world with birth defects, many of which are treatable and/or are unlikely to dramatically affect the child’s lifespan or quality of life. However, there are dozens of fetal anomalies that can only be detected at the 20-week ultrasound—or later—that could cause someone to consider ending a pregnancy. With the restrictions and bans that are currently in place, pregnant people in 26 U.S. states can find out their baby has a disastrous birth defect later in pregnancy but are then required to go through labor and delivery anyway. “The highly successful national assault on reproductive rights is cruel, stupid, medieval, and catastrophic for women across the board,” Dr. Warren Hern says.

ANATOMY SCAN

•

LEGAL DOCTRINE

For 50 years, most Americans believed the right to an abortion was settled law. Most Americans also think that equal protection, as ruled by Brown v. Board of Education in 1954, is permanent and that innocence until proven guilty, buttressed by Taylor v. Kentucky in 1978, is here to stay. “Based on what the Supreme Court did with Roe,” says Dani Newsum, director of strategic partnerships for Cobalt, a Colorado-based reproductive-rights advocacy group, “we’d be crazy to think they won’t trash other ‘settled law.’” In the wake of the Dobbs v. Jackson Women’s Health Organization decision, Newsum is concerned about one liberty in particular: the freedom of movement between states, which was defined by Corfield v. Coryell as a constitutional right in 1823 and again by Crandall v. Nevada in 1868. /// Why worry about a right that’s been accruing precedent since James Monroe was president? “Because states like Missouri and Oklahoma have already tried to pass laws that attempt to exert jurisdiction over you and your provider wherever you are,” Newsum says. “They are trying to extend state laws beyond their borders.” That, Newsum says, makes her wonder why, for example, states where cannabis is illegal have not tried to pass laws preventing their residents from traveling to Colorado to smoke weed. “It’s a concern,” she says, “that Americans could lose the right to travel freely, simply because some people want to exert control over women and don’t want them to travel to receive what should be considered basic health care. It hasn’t happened yet, but it could.”

PLANE OLD RESISTANCE

Elevated Access is a 14-month-old, Illinois-based nonprofit that harnesses a network of 350 volunteer pilots to provide no-cost access to abortion and gender-affirming care, no matter where patients live. Roughly six percent of the organization’s pilots live in and fly from Colorado. 5280 spoke with Charles,* who uses his personal jet to fly volunteer missions, about why he feels called to ferry people from (typically) the Deep South to the Centennial State.

“I was interested in Elevated Access because I think, for me, there’s a marriage of an important mission and my unique capability to help. First, we have a bunch of people in this country trying to remove rights. These are often the same people in the same political party that purports not to like the Chinese government’s way of life, yet that party is taking away rights from Americans. They’re using anti-democratic methods to do things that are not in the will of the people. This kind of care—abortion care—is wildly popular. Most Americans believe it should be legal. Second, people deserve access to health care. Women particularly. Not just white men like me. I understand that me flying one person to get health care is a drop in the bucket, but then again, that’s how you start to fill a bucket. I want to help in some small way. And, I guess, third, I’m very lucky. I’m a private pilot and have my own plane, a plane that not everyone has—it’s fast and all-weather—and I’d like to use it for things that are important. I pay for the fuel and maintenance and all of those things for each flight. For my plane, that’s about $1,500 an hour. I also miss time at my job and leave my wife and kids to do this volunteer work, but I am helping people who are much less fortunate than me. If Elevated Access weren’t doing this, I can’t imagine what would happen to some of the people I fly. It’s nice to live in a state, despite being an island of blue surrounded by red, where there are good clinics with good doctors who care. I look at my flying as political resistance, really.” —as told to LBK

*Name has been changed

GOING THE DISTANCE

Medication abortion is under threat, but Just The Pill’s Colorado-based pilot program still plans to deliver.

March 17 was a difficult day for Dr. Julie Amaon. The medical director for Just The Pill—a three-year-old nonprofit that has helped more than 5,000 people access medication abortions in Minnesota, Montana, Wyoming, and Colorado—knew the news was coming, but that didn’t make it less problematic. On that Friday, the governor of Wyoming signed a medication abortion ban that made the state the first in the nation to explicitly prohibit the use of any drug for the purpose of ending a pregnancy.

For Just The Pill, that ruling, along with the subsequent mifepristone decisions out of Texas and then the Fifth Circuit on April 12, created a near-existential crisis. Founded with a mission to use telemedicine and snail mail to help rural and underserved populations more easily procure the two-drug regimen that induces abortion up to 11 weeks in gestation, the organization had begun considering how it would pivot to a single-drug protocol (using a medication called misoprostol) to continue providing medication abortion by mail in Montana, Colorado, and Minnesota if the Fifth Circuit dials back access to mifepristone. Meanwhile, a one-year-old pilot program the Minnesota-based nonprofit started in Colorado should allow it to continue helping Wyomingites despite their state’s medication abortion ban.

In the days after SCOTUS repealed Roe, Just The Pill launched a delivery van with the purpose of plying Colorado’s borderlands, where residents of states such as Oklahoma, Texas, and South Dakota could drive to pick up medication. Now, residents of the Equality State will join pilgrims from those farther-flung locales when the medication ban goes into effect on July 1. “When and if the ban takes effect,” Amaon says, “we are looking at all options, including deploying more vans in Colorado.”

The logistics of what Just The Pill does with a staff of only 30 are mind-bending—plus the nonprofit plans to launch two mobile clinics in the Centennial State or Minnesota for surgical abortions by the end of 2023—but Amaon took the time to explain, in stepby-step detail, how a patient from a state with severe restrictions can take advantage of Just The Pill’s Colorado-based pharmacy on wheels.

COMING TO COLORADO

STEP 1

Make an appointment on justthepill.com. You’ll watch a short video, provide personal information, give your medical history, and complete some consent forms.

STEP 2

If you live in a restricted state, you’ll have to get yourself to an area in Colorado served by Just The Pill’s delivery van. Once inside Colorado’s borders, you’ll need to do a 15-minute telehealth appointment with a Just The Pill–approved health care professional from wherever you can access Wi-Fi (many clients do this at a hotel).

STEP 3

After the telehealth appointment, during which the clinician will explain how to take and what to expect from the medication, Just The Pill will let you know where the van—staffed by Just The Pill employees—will be parked. You’ll be given a pin code to access the medication lockers in the back of the van, which Just The Pill guarantees will be within an hour’s drive of your location within 24 hours.

STEP 4

If mifepristone ever becomes unavailable or its use too restricted (a real possibility because the Fifth Circuit’s original April decision banned its prescription via telehealth), Just The Pill will deploy misoprostol, a drug that, while highly effective, has slightly higher failure rates and more side effects than the mifepristone-misoprostol combo. As a result, Just The Pill will explain the possible side effects and the risks to patients so they know what to be aware of.

STEP 5

Drive home. Just The Pill will follow up seven to 14 days later and then again four to five weeks after you take the medication. The nonprofit has a clinician on call 24/7 in case patients have questions.

THESE ARE THEIR STORIES

“I had to travel to Colorado for an abortion. There’s a certain terror to being hunted by your home state when all you’re trying to do is access health care. I have a 19-monthold son and had always wanted three kids, so I was ecstatic to learn that I was pregnant with twins. That happiness was short-lived. Ultrasounds showed a series of heartbreaking issues with one of our twins, and testing revealed that he had trisomy 18. Multiple doctors and genetic counselors could only tell us the same thing: This baby will die. And every day that he continued to develop, he put his twin and [me] at higher risk. But that’s where health care ends in Texas these days…. We had to scramble to make plans to travel to Colorado for an abortion for our unviable twin. Being able to get straightforward answers to our questions from doctors in Colorado helped to relieve at least one burden. I am grateful for that. Texas lawmakers didn’t even want us to have that level of dignity and sound health care.… Politicians in Texas have gone to unprecedented lengths to turn people against one another. Our health care is haunted by a bounty system. For a long time, we only shared with a few trusted people what we had done, fearful of what it meant for ourselves, our family, our friends, and anyone— inside or outside of Texas—who had helped us along the way.”

“ABORTION IS HEALTH CARE.”

“I am a physician and a practicing high-risk obstetrician. This is a scary time to be practicing medicine and an even scarier time to work in women’s health. Lauren Miller…contacted me…shortly after her diagnosis. She was reeling from this devastating information, but instead of grieving with her family, she was tasked with navigating a health care system in Texas that was intent on limiting her information and options. Lauren came to Colorado not for a groundbreaking treatment or an exclusive research trial. She came here to receive the standard of care…. What should have been a 15-minute procedure for Lauren in a doctor’s office in Dallas instead became a traumatic experience of her gathering resources, getting on a plane, and flying to Colorado for health care. The abortion ban in Texas meant Lauren’s physicians in her home state couldn’t communicate with her honestly about her own health care.… Abortion is health care. In Lauren’s case, it was needed to save the life of her surviving twin.”

—Dr. Jonathan Hirshberg, Denver metro area

—Lauren Miller, Dallas, Texas

“In the last few weeks alone, I have seen the following situations: a woman with a desired twin pregnancy with twinto-twin transfusion syndrome, which is generally fatal for both twins, and the treatment that she received to alleviate this problem failed. She had several other complications with the pregnancy, and her life was at risk. Ending her pregnancy and saving her life took four days and all my skill from 50 years of doing this.... [Next, I cared for] a woman who was raped by a person known to her who is a criminal sociopath and who threatens her life in spite of extensive efforts to protect herself and her children from him. She is terrified and horrified by the thought of carrying this pregnancy to term. She said it “feels like the devil within her.” [I had another] woman from Texas with an advanced pregnancy in which the fetus was anencephalic—it had no skull or brain and zero hope for survival.... She could not get help in Texas to end this pregnancy.”

—Dr. Warren Hern, Boulder Abortion Clinic, Boulder

“I HAD TO TRAVEL TO COLORADO FOR AN ABORTION. THERE’S A CERTAIN TERROR TO BEING HUNTED BY YOUR HOME STATE WHEN ALL YOU’RE TRYING TO DO IS ACCESS HEALTH CARE.”

Clinicians and patients explain, in their own words, what they’ve seen and experienced since Americans lost their constitutional right to abortion.

Nitashia Johnson (Lauren Miller)

“Recently, I spoke extensively to a woman with a desired pregnancy whose membranes ruptured early and who was refused treatment at the first emergency room she went to in Texas. Treating her safely and completely in my office would have taken no more than an hour, and she could have been on her way home fully recovered within a few hours. This woman was refused treatment time after time. She called my office, and we helped her receive the correct emergency treatment [at a hospital] in Denver, but it was five days too late. Because her treatment was unnecessarily delayed by the Texas abortion laws, she became septic and had to be hospitalized for several days. She almost died.”

—Dr. Warren Hern, Boulder Abortion Clinic, Boulder

“Around Halloween, I had a patient from Texas in my clinic who was seeking a medication abortion. She didn’t have time for a surgical procedure, as her flight was departing and she needed to be home to take her children trick-or-treating. The patient explained that she had a heart condition, one requiring surgery that was already scheduled. Pregnancy was not advised for the sake of her health. Yet these extenuating circumstances mattered little in her home state of Texas, which now mandates that patients like mine risk their lives in an attempt to carry a medically dangerous pregnancy. How can this be happening in a nation that purports to be so committed to individual liberty? My patient took the mifepristone that I prescribed and returned home to her family to have her abortion while taking her children out for trick-or-treating.”

“One of our providers recently saw a patient with a diagnosis of aggressive, recurrent cancer. Already a mother of a young daughter, she timed her second pregnancy to coincide with her cancer’s remission. However, in her second trimester, the cancer recurred, and immediate chemotherapy and radiation was the recommended treatment. However, she was not permitted to receive these interventions while pregnant and was unable to obtain abortion care in her home state. She drove 13-plus hours each way to access the health care needed to begin her cancer treatment. She brought along her husband and her daughter, who spent the day at the zoo while she spent the day with us in the health center.”

“HOW CAN THIS BE HAPPENING IN A NATION THAT PURPORTS TO BE SO COMMITTED TO INDIVIDUAL LIBERTY?”

“SHE DROVE 13-PLUS HOURS EACH WAY TO ACCESS THE HEALTH CARE NEEDED TO BEGIN HER CANCER TREATMENT.”

—Kelsey Laurer, certified nurse midwife, Denver

—Fawn Bolak, spokesperson for Planned Parenthood of the Rocky Mountains, Denver

Courtesy of Kelsey Laurer (Kelsey Laurer)

“I HAD A 15-YEAR-OLD PATIENT WHO CAME TO COLORADO FROM TEXAS AFTER GETTING A POSITIVE RESULT ON AN AT-HOME PREGNANCY TEST. SHE AND HER MOM WERE AFRAID TO GO TO THE DOCTOR IN TEXAS TO GET A SECOND TEST TO CONFIRM THE PREGNANCY. They drove 14 hours to come to Colorado to get an abortion, and when we administered the pregnancy test, it was negative. It was excellent and terrible news at the same time. This is what happens when laws make people scared to go to the doctor.”

—Dr.

Rebecca Cohen, Comprehensive Women’s Health Center, Denver

STRAINING TO CARE

Colorado’s abortion clinicians need a break that’s not coming.

Rebecca Cohen estimates that she used to have one bad case a month. “Someone was in a bad social situation, maybe with their significant other,” she says, “or someone had a really scary medical issue.” Now, the OB-GYN, who spends most of her days performing abortions, says she’s seeing multiple distressing cases each week. She attributes that to a dramatic change in caseload spurred first by SB

8 in Texas and then by the undoing of Roe last June. “About five percent of our cases were from out of state before [Texas’ law]; now that’s at 30 percent,” she says. “Additionally, only about 15 percent of patients we used to treat were in their second trimesters; that’s now at 30 percent. And the number of patients we’re treating overall has increased by about 33 percent.”

Numbers can’t fully express what that means to Cohen and her staff at Denver’s Comprehensive Women’s Health Center, though. They’re working longer hours because, as Cohen says, “We can’t in good conscience turn anyone away.” They’re managing far more complicated procedures, which typically would require more planning, but the time for preparation is being condensed because out-of-state patients have travel constraints and are often coming in with more advanced pregnancies. They’re trying to care for people appropriately, but they can’t reach out to their patients’ doctors for proper medical histories or lab results or prior imaging because lawsuits could follow. They treat people, send them home, and cross their fingers that there are no complications that could send them to the ER, where they could encounter a system hostile to abortions. “I’ve become an emotional support gynecologist,” Cohen says with a sad laugh. “Jokes aside, the injustice of it all is hard to handle day in and day out for us.”

Perhaps the most difficult part, Cohen says, is that patients are hurting in ways they shouldn’t have to. “People who come here from states where abortion is banned are coming here alone, and they’re scared,” she says. “It’s too much of a legal burden to tell a friend. We have to hold their hands instead.”

Cohen and her team know the extra hand-holding they’re having to do isn’t going away any time soon. In fact, the long hours could get longer depending on what happens with abortion rights in nearby states. Wyoming passed a near-total ban, but it has been blocked from enforcement pending a legal challenge. Ditto for Utah. The Guttmacher Institute, a research and policy nonprofit that aims to expand reproductive rights worldwide, considers Montana at risk for passing a ban as well. “There is a hero narrative,” Cohen says. “We know this is something we can still do that other people can’t. We are feeling that and take it seriously. But there is a lot of sadness. And exhaustion.”

For more than 20 years, U.S. clinicians have used a two-drug regimen—mifepristone and misoprostol—to induce at-home abortions in early pregnancy. The combo of drugs has been shown to be between 95 and 99 percent effective and has a 99 percent safety record (better than either Tylenol or Viagra). Despite that, rulings in April from a Texas judge and a federal appeals court could ultimately force changes to the drug’s accessibility and usage, which the FDA had been working to expand over the past seven years. At press time, mifepristone could still be distributed via mail, could still be used after seven weeks of pregnancy, could still be prescribed via telemedicine, and could still be prescribed by a clinician other than a physician. That all could change, though. /// If mifepristone were to be restricted, clinicians would switch to misoprostol. The safety and effectiveness of a misoprostol-only course, which is widely used in Europe, are still high enough that health care providers could feel good about the substitution. However, Dr. Rebecca Cohen says the drug’s higher failure rate and higher risk of dangerous bleeding mean “that we anticipate more people would opt for surgical rather than medication abortion and that more people traveling from out of state for medication abortion would need to stay in Colorado longer. Currently, out-of-staters take the mifepristone here—because it starts the abortion process—and then use the misoprostol after traveling home. If that changes, everything will have to take place in a state where abortion is legal.”

DRUG TRIALS

TAKING THE INITIATIVE

In a state where anti-abortion ballot initiatives have been soundly defeated in 2008, 2010, 2014, and 2020, abortion-rights advocates are ready to try their hands at taking their agenda to Coloradans in 2024. “Colorado can be a leader in this area,” says Karen Middleton, president of Cobalt. “We’re already talking with other states, like Kansas and Michigan, and giving them a copy of our plans.” /// Those plans include asking Colorado voters to approve two changes to the state constitution. The first would be to ask them to overturn a 1984 amendment that cut off public funds for abortion care, a law that impacts public employees such as teachers and firefighters. “This amendment is a relic of days gone by,” Middleton says. “It disproportionately affects the people who work for us in government because they can’t use their insurance for basic health care.” /// The second request would update existing language in the constitution with wording from 2022’s Reproductive Health Equity Act. “This would create a fundamental right to abortion in our state constitution,” Middleton says, “which is what Coloradans clearly want.”

MIND THE GAP

Colorado Organization for Latina Opportunity and Reproductive Rights (COLOR)

Knowing that the Latina population is disproportionately affected by abortion bans in states like Texas, COLOR reached out to local abortion funds, advocacy organizations, and health care providers after the fall of Roe to make sure they had plans to provide resources in Spanish.

“Colorado protects abortion,” says Aurea Bolaños Perea, strategic communications director for COLOR, “but legality doesn’t mean access. Finding abortion care is hard enough; we want Latinas to be offered services in their language.”

Kaiser Permanente Colorado

After the Dobbs decision in June 2022, Kaiser Permanente Colorado, which has about 507,000 member patients, began offering abortion care services when wait times at external partners, like Planned Parenthood of the Rocky Mountains, increased dramatically.

Bolaños Perea says COLOR will help with the 2024 ballot initiative push and continue aiding abortion-rights groups and health clinics with language support: “Our role is not only to remind our partners that this is important,” she says, “but also to help them. We can assist them with some of our volunteers, many of whom simply reach out to us and say they want to use their language skills for something important. Well, this is it. Give us a call.”

“Dobbs changed everything, and it’s clear we need to expand abortion access capacity statewide,” says Cobalt’s Karen Middleton. “We are having conversations within our medical advisory committee and across the state on how best to do this.” Increasing access will be a challenge because many local hospitals and health care systems have long been averse to providing abortion care. In the Denver area, HealthOne, Centura Health, and all but one of SCL Health’s facilities (Platte Valley Medical Center) do not currently offer abortion services.

Advanced practice providers (APPs)

Colorado is one of only a handful of states that allow physician’s assistants, nurse practitioners, and certified nurse midwives to perform abortions. At clinics around the state, APPs are stepping up. “I’m part of a trio of midwives who started training at Comprehensive Women’s Health Center in October,” says Kelsey Laurer, 32. “We learned medication abortion first. We’re now training on the surgical procedure and hope to help with volume because the doctors are stretched so thin.”

Planned Parenthood of the Rocky Mountains (PPRM)

Since the implementation of Texas’ SB 8 and the subsequent repeal of Roe, PPRM’s Colorado facilities have accommodated a 63 percent increase in patients seeking abortion care. The regional branch—which serves Wyoming, Nevada, New Mexico, and Colorado—has been hiring to keep wait times reasonable (nine days, at press time) and access to other reproductive health care (e.g., appointments for birth control) accessible. Roughly two out of five patients PPRM sees for abortion care are from out of state.

Laurer says that APPs can be a solution—but only if the health care system can find a way to marshal their skills. “There’s not a coalition that’s working to mobilize APPs,” she says. “More APPs need to be trained [in abortion care].” APPs also need to be made aware that they are allowed to perform abortions in Colorado; a recent survey at the University of Colorado College of Nursing suggested only 12 percent knew they could do so.

With more than 70 percent of its patients selecting medication abortion in 2022, PPRM is monitoring the ongoing mifepristone case. PPRM spokesperson Fawn Bolak says it’s possible that if mifepristone is banned or limited there could be an uptick in requests for surgical abortions. “We just won’t know for sure until it happens,” she says. “Our health centers are prepared to switch to misoprostol if mifepristone is restricted. Right now, we are just focused on responding to the changing situation and providing safe, effective, and legal care.”

WHO’S GETTING IT DONE? HO W? WHA T’S NEXT?

If Colorado is going to be a refuge for abortion seekers, it’s going to have to increase its capacity and adapt its personnel to be able to treat them. Here, what clinics, hospital systems, and nonprofits have already done, plus what likely will happen next.

MISINFORMATION NATION

Whether they’re getting it from pregnancy crisis centers or TikTok, people who seek reproductive health care are bombarded with bad 411.

Tara Thomas-Gale sees it every day. As director of family planning at Denver Health Community Health Services, she lives in awe of the falsehoods being distributed about reproductive health. “We hear patients quote TikTok all the time,” Thomas-Gale says. “What they say is almost always inaccurate and often portrays reproductive health care negatively.” Her assessment is backed up by a study published in Obstetrics & Gynecology in January that looked at how the hashtag “IUDs” was depicted on TikTok. Roughly 24 percent of posts contained inaccurate information, and 97 percent had a negative tone. “So many people, especially young people, are not getting information from traditional news or reputable sources,” she says.

Another unreliable source? So-called pregnancy crisis centers, which are often nonprofit

organizations set up by anti-abortion groups primarily to dissuade pregnant people from getting abortions. “These fake clinics target Spanish speakers and other populations that are already at an economic disadvantage,” says COLOR’s Aurea Bolaños Perea. “They talk about things like abortion pill reversal and how there are so many resources that will help a new mother. It’s forced parenthood.”

In Colorado, the Deceptive Trade Practice Pregnancy-related Service bill made some of the tactics used at pregnancy crisis centers illegal. Unless Congress decides to ban TikTok nationwide, though, the misinformation from that social platform will continue to proliferate. Here, we dispel some of the most common myths reproductive health care professionals are hearing from Coloradans and out-of-staters every day.

MYTH Emergency contraception—often called the morning-after pill or Plan B One-Step—can cause an abortion.

TRUTH The morning-after pill will not induce an abortion in a person who is already pregnant, nor will it harm a developing embryo. Emergency contraception prevents pregnancy and helps prevent the need for abortion.

MYTH Using contraception can make a person infertile.

TRUTH Hormonal birth control does not directly affect a person’s fertility. Birth control can, however, mask other health problems that can impact fertility, such as endometriosis and polycystic ovary syndrome.

MYTH Intrauterine devices (or IUDs) are painful and frequently lead to dangerous complications.

TRUTH The insertion of an IUD, a type of birth control, can be uncomfortable for some patients; however, the pain is usually relegated to several minutes during and immediately after insertion. Some people experience cramping for several days post-insertion. Complications like an IUD falling out or perforating the uterus are rare. IUDs are 99 percent effective against pregnancy and can actually lead to reduced menstrual bleeding and cramping over time.

MYTH Abortion pill reversal is effective for stopping the termination of a pregnancy if a person takes progesterone within 24 hours of ingesting mifepristone, the first medication in a two-drug regimen that results in an abortion.

TRUTH The so-called abortion pill reversal protocol is not promoted by mainstream medical organizations; it is not approved by the FDA; and it has never been tested in a randomized controlled trial. The American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists specifically rejects abortion pill reversal.

CONDUCT UNBECOMING?

One of the goals of Colorado’s Deceptive Trade Practice Pregnancy-related Service bill that Governor Jared Polis signed in April was to declare the administration of abortion pill reversal as unprofessional conduct. However, the law contains an amendment that requires the state medical, nursing, and pharmacy boards to evaluate the practice of abortion pill reversal by October 1; the state says it will not enforce the ban until the boards make their determination. On the day the bill became law, Englewood-based Bella Health and Wellness, a Catholic health care clinic, filed suit in U.S. District Court, saying the law infringes upon staffers’ First Amendment rights. The judge granted a temporary exemption for Bella Health and Wellness but not for other pregnancy crisis centers. That exemption was rescinded on April 28 by a U.S. District Court judge, who said the state’s promise not to enforce the ban until the boards weighed in was a “generally accepted standard of practice.”

THE JOURNEY TAKEN

As an OB-GYN, Dr. Leilah Zahedi-Spung says the coolest thing she does is deliver babies. But the 35-year-old physician has advanced training that also allows her to safely end pregnancies, a skill she believes she should be able to use freely to help her patients. When Roe fell, Zahedi-Spung was living and working in Tennessee—a state that quickly banned abortion, with no exceptions, and made the practice a felony for clinicians. ZahediSpung knew she couldn’t stay in the Volunteer State. After only 18 months in Tennessee, she moved her family to Colorado in January. In February, she spoke with 5280 about what she’s learned as a doctor who performs abortions in America today.

I’ve lived, worked, and trained in Georgia, Missouri, and Tennessee—all states that have had and currently have some of the country’s strictest abortion laws. I’ve seen how those laws affect care, and it’s not good for anyone.

After training to be an OB-GYN, I wanted more training. I knew going into fellowship for maternal-fetal medicine that I wanted to do abortion care. I knew being that kind of doctor would be an uphill battle, but I was OK with that. That was before 2022.

I don’t think I really thought Roe would fall. It just wasn’t something my mind could wrap itself around.

In Tennessee, I was in private practice in Chattanooga. I was trained to do abortions into the second term, but Chattanooga was the only major city that didn’t have an abortion clinic, so I drove to Memphis once a month to keep my skills up. I saw devastating fetal anomalies and situations where the mother was at risk. As a high-risk obstetrician, I would walk that grief path with them, and then I was able to actually help them. Until Roe fell.

It’s really awful to tell a patient who has just found out that their baby isn’t viable—has some terrible fetal anomaly—that I can’t help them. They would ask: If the baby isn’t going to live, why do I have to go out of state to get help? People had a hard time understanding “no exceptions.” I couldn’t blame them. I was so grateful for the doctors in North Carolina, South Carolina, and Virginia who took care of my patients.

Tennessee’s law offers no exceptions for rape, incest, or health of the mother. It also is a state that requires an affirmative defense, meaning I would have to go to court and prove that an abortion I performed—and was automatically charged with a felony for performing—met the criteria for a legal abortion.

People with felonies don’t get to be doctors, and I worked really hard to be a doctor.

I was worried that if I tried to help someone, I could go to jail. I would be sent there not by a jury of my peers, because it’s very likely that none of the jurors would be doctors. They wouldn’t have the medical knowledge to know what’s medically necessary in certain situations.

When the Supreme Court draft leaked in May 2022, I got a call from a friend in Colorado. She asked if I needed a job someplace where people still respected choice and freedom. I realized I did.

I felt guilty leaving Tennessee. I left patients who really needed me. But now I’m here, and it’s overwhelmingly refreshing to be in a place where people believe in science.

Here’s the thing: No one thinks they need abortion care until they need it. m

The Telluride Bluegrass Festival turns 50 this month. We take you inside the nation’s premier string band music fete—through the words of the people who’ve made it happen.

BY DEVON O’NEIL PHOTOGRAPHY BY BENKO PHOTOGRAPHICS

New Grass Revival at the festival in 1987

attend an event we had never heard of. It was the summer after we’d moved to Colorado from Washington, D.C., and the Telluride Bluegrass Festival (TBF) happened to be celebrating its 30th anniversary. We gaped at the fabled box canyon, camped on a softball field, boogied 10 hours a day for four days under the sweltering sun and silver moon, and woke up each morning by splashing snowmelt on our faces to cleanse ourselves of the previous day’s dirt. I was so enamored with the uplifting energy that I swore I would never miss another “Bluegrass,” as the festival is simply known.

Alas, life has a way of making it difficult to keep our promises, and other engagements— namely work and children—meant that my attendance became more sporadic. Yet the magic endures, and this month the mother of all Colorado music festivals turns 50.

A rite of passage for both artists and fans, the event has grown from a Podunk hippie gathering to one of the most iconic showcases in American music, staged every year around the summer solstice with a roster that includes old-school picking, new-school jamming, jazz, R&B, gospel, and classical. It sells out in minutes—before the lineup is even announced—and features acts ranging from Sam Bush (who will play his 48th consecutive Bluegrass this month) to Brandi Carlile to Robert Plant and Alison Krauss. Over the years, TBF has also drawn the likes of Willie Nelson, Johnny Cash, David Byrne, and Janelle Monáe, while highlighting upstarts, too—“the most known and unknown musicians on the planet,” as festival director Craig Ferguson, who has booked each edition since 1990, puts it.

Much has changed since tickets cost $2 per person ($5 per family) in the mid-’70s. Through it all, though, the fest has stayed independent, narrowly surviving a rocky ownership transition 34 years ago. For musicians, Telluride remains “the Valhalla of places to perform,” as 13-time Grammy Award winner Emmylou Harris once said. And for the audience—10,000 sunbaked souls surrounded by waterfalls and towering peaks, listening to legends echo off the canyon walls—TBF is still a place to find, Ferguson says, “far more than you sought.”

The Telluride Bluegrass Festival runs from June 15 to 18.

GENESIS (1974–1988)

The festival was founded by Telluride’s Fall Creek Band, one member of which was a long-haired guitar player and ski instructor named Fred Shellman. After spending time with his bandmates at the nascent Walnut Valley Festival in Winfield, Kansas, in the early ’70s, Shellman decided he was going to bring a similar festival to Telluride. He wanted New Grass Revival, one of the acts he saw at Walnut Valley, to be the headliner. Its frontman was Sam Bush, a frizzy-haired mandolin virtuoso from Kentucky.

Marikay Shellman (Fred’s ex-wife): On the way home from Kansas [in 1971], we’re all in the van, and Fred says, “I’m

going to have a bluegrass festival like that in the mountains.” We’re all like, “Bullshit, Freddy.” But he had a sixth sense for good music.

Sam Bush: Fred got in touch with our booking agency and said they wanted to make us the headliners. There was an agent in Colorado named Steve Dahl, who was one of my good pals. Steve used to have this great saying about certain jobs that would get me to say “yes” sometimes. And he used that phrase when telling me about Telluride: “They don’t have a lot of money, but they’ll get your head right.” So I said, “OK!”

Dan Sadowsky, aka Pastor Mustard (TBF emcee from 1978 to 2006): Fred was brilliant and sweet. His mind was as quick as any comedian’s. It was conspiratorial. You just knew that this was a guy you could get into and out of any kind of trouble with, and you wouldn’t mind. It would all just go in the diary.

Bush: At first, unbeknownst to the promoters in Telluride, we got in a standoff at home because our banjo player didn’t want to drive that far for one gig. We finally decided to go. When we arrived in June 1975, after driving for hours and wondering where in the heck we were going, it was around 3 a.m. We somehow found our way to the Manitou Lodge. On the desk were four keys and a note that said, “Hey, New Grass guys, welcome to Telluride.”

Tim O’Brien (played in 1975 with Ophelia Swing Band; this year will be his 46th TBF): The fact that New Grass was there, to me, represented a big thing. Like, this is not just a normal event. I remember there was a little shed near the stage, and they went in to rehearse. I put my ear to the wall outside to listen. They were just in there kicking ass and getting warmed up. I knew people who knew them, but then I got to meet them and hang out. It was so exciting.

Mustard: I had played the second festival with Ophelia Swing Band, then I moved to Telluride and became a Sunday morning DJ at KOTO. I made some cassettes that ended up with Fred, who had been emceeing for years, and folks had told him he shouldn’t be. He’d get up onstage and it was like he’d been wearing his Hawaiian shirt for three weeks and had been sideswiped by a delivery vehicle. He was funny...but it was questionable. So he asked me to take over.

IN JUNE 2003, A FRIEND PERSUADED MY TWIN BROTHER AND ME TO DRIVE SIX HOURS FROM BRECKENRIDGE TO

Courtesy of Planet Bluegrass (poster)

John Cohn (TBF security director for 48 years): I came to Telluride in September 1972 and tried to start a commune, but it didn’t work. At the time, a takeover of the town was in full swing. The old miners had seen what was going on and a lot of them left, and the young people took over the government, and we tried to turn Telluride into a different place. I remember going to the first festival. I don’t think there were more than a couple hundred people there. It was like a big picnic.

Bush: All of a sudden, these two guys came out of the woods on horses. They were rough and woolly, with ammunition strapped around their chests, bandolero style. And nobody was going to tell them they couldn’t come in. So Fall Creek realized, OK, we gotta put a fence around the back.

Cohn: The next year, I went to Fred Shellman and said, “You need some security,” and he hired me. I think we were working for tickets and sweatshirts. As it got bigger, I hired some cowboys from Norwood on horses, and they’d run circles around the people who were sneaking in. I could see that was a recipe for bad things to happen, so I ended it. Like, we’re not here to round up people, OK?

Bush: We started telling our friends about this festival: what fun we had, and how you can’t believe what it looks like from the stage while you play. We told Peter Rowan,

Bryan Bowers, and, of course, John Hartford. Then, later, Doc and Merle Watson.

Peter Rowan (first played in 1977): It was a very small town, so quiet. We stayed at the New Sheridan Hotel in these dingy, old, mining-era rooms with spring beds. I remember going in there and saying, “Where are we getting together?” Up in [composer and musician John] Hartford’s room. So I went up to John’s room, and everybody was catching a buzz and laughing away. He was such a free spirit and leader. I remember him bouncing on the bed like a little kid, playing his banjo. I was shy, but he was like, “No, join in.” Hartford was a great welcoming spirit of Telluride. At those gatherings, we didn’t drink anything. Maybe we had a smoke, but it was all about the music. We’d catch a buzz and play for hours and hours and hours. There was no other event quite like Telluride to bring that together.

Marikay Shellman: I can only recall one female singer in the early years, and I used to do all the food. So I looked at Fred and said, “If you don’t get some women up on this stage, you all aren’t getting fed next year.” We’ve had women ever since.

Rowan: Telluride became this amphitheater of experience in that valley. Even though we weren’t playing stadium rock, suddenly Telluride was our stadium. And

it invited experimentation. The sound was huge. You always feel a little overwhelmed and try to get enough air in your lungs to survive.

Mustard: There’s an energy to bluegrass that the Colorado crowd picked up on bigtime. You just cannot deny the enthusiasm of a good audience. When you connect, they throw it back to you and dance like maniacs and cheer you on. You know, fuck purism. Who cares if you’re playing it exactly like Bill [Monroe] did? It was a meaningful moment. And it all was really organic.

Dennis Green (longtime TBF parking director): The first Bluegrass I attended was 1979. I came down from Steamboat with a group of friends, and we rolled into Town Park. The field was nothing but dirt and rocks. At the campground, we’d hear a new band crank up and send somebody out to see how high the dust was rising over the festival grounds. The higher the dust was rising, the quicker we knew we needed to get down there. I had so much fun that I moved to Telluride that fall and lived in a tipi. When the ski area closed the second week of April, the whole town shut down until early June. Everyone’s first big paycheck was Bluegrass.

Bush: One of the funniest things I ever saw was on a Saturday night at the festival in the late ’70s, probably about 2 a.m., [when] Steve Goodman and Fred Shellman decided to have a lip race across Main Street, which was not paved at the time. A

This spread, from left: The David Grisman Quintet in the early 2000s; Fred Shellman in St. Paul, Minnesota, in the summer of 1971

Courtesy of Marikay Shellman (Fred Shellman)

lip race is when you’re on your belly and you can’t go any faster than your lips can move on the ground. I actually had a stopwatch, and the town marshal pulled up and shined his light in my face. He said, “Sam?”

I said, “Yes, sir” [laughing hysterically]. Then he put the light down and went, “Fred?” I said, “Yes, sir.” And then, incredulously, “Steve Goodman?” I said, “Yes, sir.” And he just went, “Oh, man, don’t get hurt” and drove off.

Green: I can remember in the early ’80s, I was flipping burgers at the Flora Dora with [future String Cheese Incident guitar player] Billy Nershi. Our shift ended, we walked out on Main Street, and here came this tour bus—first one that I can remember. It was Willie Nelson. We were all standing out there, cheering Willie. I was like, Whoa, we’ve gotten pretty big. We have Willie Nelson and a tour bus in town.

DISRUPTION (1989–2003)

The festival continued to grow, as did its reputation, but by the late ’80s, it was in trouble financially. Craig Ferguson, a lawyer from Denver who specialized in bankruptcy reorganizations, eventually took over for Shellman, which upset the hippie hive. Shellman died in 1990, the same year TBF headliner James Taylor played to

16,000 fans, still the largest crowd in history and one that forced the festival to subsequently restrict capacity to 10,000.

Ferguson: I had started a music store in Boulder, and we were a ticket outlet for the festival. One day [the owners] came in and said they’d never filed a tax return. And I said, “Well, I’m not going to fix that, but if you guys want to get organized for the future, I’ll do that.” So eventually I made them a corporation, but in that reorganization, we basically had to blow off all the previous business and bring in new shareholders, of which I was one. It wasn’t easy to get people to chip in when they looked at this and all it did was lose money. When I started, the festival owed, like, 150 grand to creditors, and not one town council member believed a word the festival said. It was mayhem. I just intended to fix it up and have Fred do his job. Some people would say I got rid of Fred, but I would say that I was the one actually trying to keep him, until it just couldn’t happen.

Mustard: Craig was a young guy, but don’t forget, he was a lawyer. Somewhere in the late ’80s, he figured out that Fred had never registered the name Telluride Bluegrass Festival with the Colorado secretary of state. So he registered the Telluride Bluegrass Festival as his company. Which effectively hamstrung Fred from doing business as the Telluride Bluegrass Festival. And it blew Fred’s fucking mind. I know he wanted to start a rival festival in Olathe.

Ferguson (who disputes Mustard’s characterization of the transition): The people involved at the festival at the time didn’t really get along with Fred, and they weren’t able to work together mutually. There also was debt in the company that we were trying to avoid. To do that, we had to create a new legal entity.

Bush: Fred was one of my best friends, but when he contacted me about putting on another festival that same weekend, I told him that was a terrible idea. I said, “This might sound harsh, Freddie, but people just want to come to the show and enjoy it. They’re not concerned with who’s promoting it. And I have to tell you, if you do a festival against Telluride, I can’t go with you. I’ll be in Telluride.” I loved Fred, but it was obvious there needed to be a change or the festival would not have survived.

Mustard: There were reasons why Fred should not have been running it, but he was the festival’s spirit animal. He absolutely created the concept, and the concept has not changed. So the folks who were close to Fred and devoted to Fred and helped him build the festival were bitter. I’ve had this discussion with plenty of the artists who were in the core. You have to decide to take the good with the bad, and we rolled with it.

Willy Matthews/Courtesy of Planet Bluegrass (poster)

Bush: Craig and I had to start a new relationship. It took us a few years to get to know each other. But we’re friends now, and I love the guy. No one has any idea how much the festival means to him.

Ferguson: 1989 was the first year we almost broke even. After that, I kind of accidentally started booking it, and when James Taylor became available, we hired him to play in ’90. I remember watching that show, with twice as many people as had ever been to the festival. After two or three years of financial chaos, there was that moment where the music was impeccable and it felt for the first time like we could continue. That was really life-changing. From that day forward, we’ve essentially been able to book whoever we want.

Many of the festival’s mainstays started humbly before graduating to main-stage renown. Nickel Creek first played as tweens. Greensky Bluegrass won the Telluride Band Contest in 2006. And Yonder Mountain String Band went from a Nederland upstart to a national act after catching the right ears on the street in Telluride.

Mary Chapin Carpenter (two-time CMA Awards Female Vocalist of the Year, first played TBF in 1990): I was a baby act with Columbia Records and

had finally quit my day job—I worked as an administrative assistant in Washington, D.C., dug ditches, and hauled pipes during the day and played music at night. I remember when I found out I’d received an invitation to play Telluride. I think my head exploded from happiness and excitement. Because, to me, the festival was always in the territory of Holy Grail.

Chris Thile (TBF opening act, first played in 1992): I was 11 when our band Nickel Creek got booked to play the kids’ tent. We did pretty well and got offered a 15-minute slot on the main stage. After our set, [bluegrass legend] Bill Monroe was tooling around backstage, and someone suggested I play for him. My mandolin was back at our condo, but Sam Bush was getting ready to sit in with John Hartford and let me play his backup. That was my first Telluride experience! But every freaking year something magical happens to everyone who goes. Like, no one leaves Telluride saying, “Eh, it was OK.”

Adam Aijala (Yonder Mountain String Band guitar player): We had just started touring outside of Colorado in March of ’99, after playing our first show as a band the previous September. [Leftover] Salmon and String Cheese [Incident] had paved a path for us, but at that time, there really were no other bands playing loud and plugged in without a

drummer. We had a week off around the solstice, so we decided to take the RV down to Telluride. There was a porch on Oak Street, and we started to pick. A crowd began to form.

Ben Kauffman (Yonder Mountain String Band bass player): I remember more and more people showing up to watch, and eventually someone from the festival came over and asked us to play the Elks Park stage, where you don’t need a ticket to see music. I remember thinking that was a huge deal. Like, Oh, my gosh, I hope we do well. It went so well that Craig offered us a spot at the actual festival the next summer. We played every year from 2000 to 2021. It became a staple of our career. Within the context of bluegrass music, there is nothing higher than Telluride, and position number two isn’t even close.

Sally Truitt (1992 Telluride Band Contest winner, co-producer of TBF 1992 to 2010, Ferguson’s ex-wife): You feel like you’re going into a corner of the world. There’s no way to get out, so you’re all stuck there together. It’s generally beautiful weather in a stunning setting, and there’s just something that lifts off of people when they arrive. Everybody lets their anxieties go. I know people who are really stressed, touring musicians, but when they come to Telluride, it’s like they have permission to just be themselves.

Green: When I started working the vehicle gate at Town Park, I was selling all the camping passes out

This spread, from left: The festival has broadened its lineup to include stars such as Bonnie Raitt (2006), Janelle Monáe (2015), and Willie Nelson (1999).

94

DINING GUIDE

PRICE KEY

Indicates a restaurant featured in 5280 for the first time (though not necessarily a restaurant that has just opened).

Indicates inclusion in 5280’s 2022 list of Denver’s best restaurants. These selections are at the discretion of 5280 editors and are subject to change

BBanh & Butter Bakery Cafe $ Aurora / French Thoa Nguyen crafts French pastries inspired by her Vietnamese heritage at this East Colfax cafe. Go for the dazzling crêpe cakes, each made with 25 to 30 layers, and the strawberry croissants. Reservations not accepted. 9935 E. Colfax Ave., Aurora, 720-513-9313. Breakfast, Lunch

Bellota $$

AA5 Steakhouse $$$$

LoDo / Steak House The team behind Forget Me

Not and Tap and Burger offers a refreshing chophouse experience with a stellar lineup of steaks in a hip, delightfully funky bar and dining room. Reservations accepted. 1600 15th St., 303-623-0534. Dinner

Acreage by Stem Ciders $$

Lafayette / Seasonal Stem Ciders’ ciderhouse and eatery pairs its drinks with sustainably sourced cuisine. Save room for the cider doughnuts. Reservations accepted. 1380 Horizon Ave., Lafayette, 720-443-3007. Lunch, Dinner

American Elm $$$

Berkeley / American Elevated American fare and classic cocktails anchor the menu at this neighborhood spot. Start with raw bar options like oysters and shrimp cocktail, then order the rib-eye French dip. Reservations accepted. 4132 W. 38th Ave., 720-749-3186. Dinner, Brunch

Annette $$$

Aurora / American Caroline Glover brings a warm dining experience to Stanley Marketplace with Annette. Enjoy a family-style menu featuring seasonal salads, toasts, and wood-grilled fare. Reservations accepted. 2501 Dallas St., Suite 108, Aurora, 720-710-9975. Dinner

Ash’Kara $$$

LoHi / Middle Eastern Chef Daniel Asher offers a playful take on Middle Eastern cuisine at this plantbedecked eatery. Order the falafel. Also try the Boulder location. Reservations accepted. 2005 W. 33rd Ave., 303-537-4407. Dinner, Brunch

Attimo $$

Ballpark / Italian At this urban winery, Snooze co-founder Jon Schlegel is serving vino from artisans in Northern Italy with light, thoughtful fare. Reservations accepted. 2246 Larimer St., 720-287-4988. Dinner

RiNo / Mexican Go for elevated regional Mexican fare like shrimp tacos basted in butter infused with shrimp shells and the popular fried quesadilla de requesón. Also check out the Boulder location. Reservations not accepted. 3350 Brighton Blvd., 720-542-3721. Lunch, Dinner

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Visit our online listings at 5280.com/ restaurants.

The Bindery $$$

LoHi / Contemporary Linda Hampsten Fox’s eatery, market, and bakery offers worldly fare inspired by her travels. Settle in for the smoked rabbit pecan pie with mustard gelato. Reservations accepted. 1817 Central St., 303-993-2364. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Blackbelly $$$

Boulder / American Chef Hosea Rosenberg’s carnivore-friendly menu focuses on charcuterie, small plates, and daily butcher specials. Try the crispy pig ears with red pepper jelly. Also check out the grab-and-go market located next door. Reservations accepted. 1606 Conestoga St., Boulder, 303-247-1000. Dinner

British Bulldog Pub $$

Five Points / Pub This pub serves up a variety of fare, from English shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to Pakistani curries and all-American burgers, in a casual setting. Reservations not accepted. 2052 Stout St., 303-295-7974. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

CCarm & Gia Metropolitan $$ Aurora / American Burgers made with certified Angus beef, Chicago-style hot dogs, and more are on the menu at this family-owned spot. Reservations not accepted. 9598 E. Montview Blvd., Aurora, 303-747-4008. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Carrera’s Tacos $ Greenwood Village / Mexican Josh and Ryan Carrera sling West Coast–style tacos at this food truck turned brick-and-mortar eatery. Reservations not accepted. 7939 E. Arapahoe Road, Greenwood Village, 720-689-8035. Lunch, Dinner

PAN-ASIAN HOT SPOT

Since the second location of Seattle’s Reckless Noodle House debuted in Capitol Hill in December, the neon-lit restaurant has become a fixture for creative eats that are, in reflection of chef Kenny Lee’s Chinese Cambodian heritage, influenced by cuisines from across East and Southeast Asia. Try the bo la lot—grilled, chopped rib-eye rolled in betel leaves and served with rice vermicelli, toasted chile and lime fish sauce, veggies, and fresh herbs—alongside a tequila-based, chile-salt-rimmed Dirty Sanchez cocktail infused with blood orange and tamarind.

Cherry Cricket $$ Cherry Creek / Pub This cheery neighborhood hangout offers excellent green chile and great burgers. Also try the Ballpark location. Reservations not accepted. 2641 E. Second Ave., 303-322-7666. Lunch, Dinner

Chez Maggy $$$$

LoDo / French Acclaimed chef Ludo Lefebvre plates up Colorado-inspired French classics at this brasserie inside the Thompson Hotel. Don’t miss the expertly prepared escargot and the gluten-free crab cake bound with shrimp paste. Reservations accepted. 1616 Market St., 720-794-9544. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Comal Heritage Food Incubator $$ Globeville / International Immigrant and refugee women from Latin America develop a rotating

Silence speaks volumes.

DINING GUIDE

menu featuring their family recipes at this welcoming restaurant, which has a job training program. Reservations not accepted. 3455 Ringsby Court, Suite 105, 720-500-3455. Lunch

Corrida $$$$

Boulder / Spanish Housed on the rooftop level of the Pearl West building, this elegant Spanish steak house offers stunning Flatiron views and fabulous cocktails and wines. Reservations accepted. 1023 Walnut St., Suite 400, Boulder, 303-444-1333. Dinner, Brunch

Dio Mio $$$

RiNo / Italian One thing you can count on at Alexander Figura, Spencer White, and Lulu Clair’s fast-casual Italian eatery: perfect pasta. Try the squid ink creste di galli. Reservations not accepted. 3264 Larimer St., 303-562-1965. Dinner

Dragonfly Noodle $$

LoDo / Asian This eatery from restaurateur Edwin Zoe serves a multinational variety of bao and noodle dishes. Order the slurp-worthy bowls of ramen with house-made noodles. Also try the Boulder location. Reservations not accepted. 1350 16th Street Mall, 720-543-8000. Lunch, Dinner

Dry Storage $$

El Noa Noa Mexican Restaurant $$

Lincoln Park / Mexican This colorful eatery serves authentic Mexican food with top-notch margaritas. Reservations accepted. 722 Santa Fe Drive, 303-623-9968. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

El Tepehuan $

Englewood / Mexican The team behind this Englewood restaurant has been serving its authentic and affordable Mexican food for more than 40 years. Stop by for the huevos rancheros or carne asada. Reservations accepted. 3495 S. Broadway, Englewood, 303-781-0243. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Everyday Pizza $$

DDaughter Thai Kitchen & Bar $$$$

LoHi / Thai This upscale Thai restaurant from Ounjit Hardacre serves beautifully plated dishes and inventive cocktails with an elegant ambience to match. Try the lychee-kissed massaman curry with Colorado lamb or the soft-shell crab larb. Reservations accepted. 1700 Platte St., Suite 140, 720-667-4652. Lunch, Dinner

Dew Drop Inn $$

Uptown / Contemporary This chic neighborhood watering hole serves thoughtful small bites such as the Bangkok-style Big Bowl of Mussels, steamed in a broth flavored with red curry, coconut, and lime. Reservations not accepted. 1033 E. 17th Ave., 720-612-4160. Dinner

Boulder / Cafe Savor coffee and carbs galore at this innovative cafe and retail grain mill. An exquisite selection of pastries, breads, and sandwiches are made from scratch daily. Reservations not accepted. 3601 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder, 720-420-0918. Breakfast, Lunch

Edgewater Inn $$

EEdgewater / Pizza This pizzeria has been family owned and operated for more than 60 years. Try the Howdy Pizza. Reservations not accepted. 5302 W. 25th Ave., Edgewater, 303-237-3524. Lunch, Dinner

Ballpark / Pizza The team behind Somebody People serves vegan pies, handcrafted pastas, small bites, and an Italian-centric wine list in neontinged environs. We recommend the mushroom pizza. Reservations accepted. 2162 Larimer St., 303-953-0631. Lunch, Dinner

FThe Fifth String $$$$

LoHi / American At the Fifth String, chef Amos Watts offers his seasonally inspired cooking alongside an in-house beef butchering program. The results, such as the tallow candle bread service, are delicious and inventive. Reservations accepted. 3316 Tejon St., Suite 102, 720-420-0622. Dinner

IMAGES, LEFT TO RIGHT:

Photo by Iris Miceli Photography; photo by DAM staff; photo by Raine Chism.

DINING GUIDE

Flagstaff House $$$$

Boulder / Contemporary Located atop Flagstaff Mountain, this restaurant has a huge wine list and a spectacular view of Boulder. Try the Hudson Valley foie gras plate. Reservations accepted. 1138 Flagstaff Road, Boulder, 303-442-4640. Dinner

Frank & Roze $

Hale / Cafe This stylish cafe serves sustainably sourced coffee from around the world. All-day fare from chef Tom Coohill includes breakfast sandwiches and toasts and fresh-baked pastries. Reservations not accepted. 4097 E. Ninth Ave., 720-328-2960. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Frasca Food and Wine $$$$ Boulder / Italian Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson, Peter Hoglund, and Bobby Stuckey’s fine-dining mecca has racked up scores of accolades over the years. The elegant Friulano cuisine always wows. Reservations accepted. 1738 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-442-6966. Dinner

French 75 $$$

Downtown / French Mizuna’s younger, more casual sibling features approachable French bistro fare. Try the half rotisserie chicken served with garlic sage butter. Reservations accepted. 717 17th St., 303-405-7575. Lunch, Dinner

GGaku Ramen $$ Boulder / Japanese This Boulder ramen shop serves three of the most traditional types of the Japanese noodle soup: shoyu, miso, and tonkotsu. Reservations not accepted. 1035 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-442-0782. Lunch, Dinner

Glo Noodle House $$ West Highland / Asian Blackbelly’s Chris Teigland and Ariana Pope bring Asian fusion fare to West Highland with Glo Noodle House. Don’t miss the karaage. Reservations accepted. 4450 W. 38th Ave., Suite 130, 303-993-4180. Dinner

Gold Point $ RiNo / American This hip hangout serves craft cocktails and light fare in an industrial space. Reservations not accepted. 3126 Larimer St., 720-445-9691. Dinner

The Greenwich $$$ RiNo / Pizza Restaurateur Delores Tronco brings a slice of her favorite New York City neighborhood to RiNo. Don’t miss the pizzas and inventive vegetable plates. Reservations accepted. 3258 Larimer St., 720-868-5006. Dinner

Hashtag $$

HCentral Park / American Prolific Denver chef Troy Guard takes on the breakfast joint with Hashtag. Try the sea salt chocolate chip hot cake. Reservations not accepted. 10155 E. 29th Drive, 303-993-6896. Breakfast

DINING GUIDE

Highland’s Indian Cuisine $$$

Highlands Ranch / Indian Enjoy upscale curries, biryani, and tandoori selections at this Indian restaurant in Highlands Ranch. Reservations not accepted. 9344 Dorchester St., Suite 101, Highlands Ranch, 720-420-9374. Lunch, Dinner

HiRa Cafe & Patisserie $

Aurora / Ethiopian Pastry chef-owner Hiwot Solomon serves from-scratch desserts and Ethiopian breakfast plates at this cheery cafe. Reservations not accepted. 10782 E. Iliff Ave., Aurora, 720-949-1703. Breakfast, Lunch

Hop Alley $$$

RiNo / Chinese From Tommy Lee of Uncle, this neighborhood hangout serves dishes rooted in Chinese tradition with a touch of distinctive flair. Reservations accepted. 3500 Larimer St., 720-379-8340. Dinner

India’s Restaurant $$ Hampden / Indian This spot serves traditional fare, including flavorful dishes like tandoori chicken. Take advantage of the lunch buffet, and be sure to try the cinnamon bread pudding. Reservations accepted. 8921 E. Hampden Ave., 303-7554284. Lunch, Dinner

Istanbul Cafe & Bakery $ Washington Virginia Vale / Middle Eastern Inside the shopping center at the intersection of South Monaco Parkway and Leetsdale Drive, friendly owner Ismet Yilmaz prepares authentic Turkish pastries. Reservations not accepted. 850 S. Monaco Parkway, Suite 9, 720-787-7751. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Izakaya Den $$$ Platt Park / Japanese Ultra-fresh sushi, sashimi, and creative small plates are on the menu at this local favorite. Reservations accepted. 1487-A S. Pearl St., 303-777-0691. Dinner

Jamaican Grille $$

Lincoln Park / Jamaican This family-owned Jamaican restaurant serves classic Caribbean-centric dishes like jerk chicken, fried plantains, and rice and peas. Also try the Jamaican Mini Grille and International Jerk Market in Lakewood. Reservations accepted. 709 W. Eighth Ave., 303-6230013. Lunch, Dinner

Jerusalem Restaurant $$

University / Middle Eastern You can’t beat this spot’s tasty, affordable, and traditional Middle Eastern fare, including gyros, baba ghanoush, and sambusas. Reservations accepted. 1890 E. Evans Ave., 303-777-8828. Lunch, Dinner

Jovanina’s Broken Italian $$$$

LoDo / Italian This gorgeous LoDo eatery expands on traditional Italian fare by incorporating unexpected, seasonal ingredients. Reservations accepted. 1520 Blake St., 720-541-7721. Dinner

Il Posto $$$$

IRiNo / Italian Sample Andrea Frizzi’s imaginative Italian cuisine in a sleek, metropolitan environment. Don’t miss the seasonal risotto or the pineapple zeppole (Italian doughnut holes) with passionfruit coulis and coconut anglaise. Reservations accepted. 2601 Larimer St., 303-394-0100.

Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

JJ’s Noodles Star Thai 2 $ Westwood / Thai This traditional Thai spot has developed a cult following over the years. The tom yum soup, drunken noodles, and pad thai are regulars’ picks. Reservations not accepted. 945 S. Federal Blvd., 303-922-5495. Lunch, Dinner

SILVERTHORNE, COLORADO

Find your next adventure in Silverthorne. Surrounded by miles of hiking and biking trails and located next to the famed fishing waters of the Blue River, Silverthorne offers a multitude of outdoor experiences perfect for your summer in the mountains.

Kachina Cantina $$$

KLoDo / Southwestern Located in the Dairy Block, this spot specializes in Southwestern fare, such as pozole. Also try the Westminster-based sister location, Kachina Southwestern Grill. Reservations accepted. 1890 Wazee St., 720-460-2728. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Kahlo’s Mexican Restaurant $$

Westwood / Mexican Enjoy plates of mole and enchiladas verdes, as well as a menu of almost 30 different juices and smoothies, in a space decorated with the art of Frida Kahlo. Reservations accepted. 3735 Morrison Road, 303-936-0758.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Kaos Pizzeria $$

Platt Park / Pizza A wood-fired oven, gourmet ingredients, and wine to-go make this a perfect pizzeria for dine-in or delivery. If the weather’s nice, eat outside in the spacious garden area. Reservations accepted. 1439 S. Pearl St., 303-733-5267. Lunch, Dinner

Katsu Ramen $$

Aurora / Japanese Satisfy a ramen craving with one of the traditional styles offered at this cozy spot. Get the most out of your dollar with a combo meal, featuring your choice of ramen plus gyoza and a rice bowl. Reservations not accepted. 1930 S. Havana St., Aurora, 303-751-2222. Lunch, Dinner

Kobe An $$$

Cherry Creek / Asian Everything is traditional at this Japanese restaurant, including the seating. The menu features Japanese favorites, such as tempura, gyoza, and yakisoba. Reservations accepted. 231 Milwaukee St., 303-989-5907. Dinner

Luca $$$$

Capitol Hill / Italian Convivial hospitality and classic Italian dishes greet you at this spot. Don’t miss the house-made burrata cheese. Reservations accepted. 711 Grant St., 303-832-6600. Dinner

Maine Shack $$$

MLoHi / Seafood This fast-casual spot is slinging lobster rolls, fried whole-belly clams, clam chowder, roast beef sandwiches, and more. Reservations not accepted. 1535 Central St., 303-997-2118. Lunch, Dinner

Makizushico $$$

Littleton / Japanese Fresh fish is flown in daily for Makizushico’s menu of sushi, sashimi, and a variety of hot and cold Japanese-style small plates. Reservations accepted. 5950 S. Platte Canyon Road, Littleton, 720-739-7777. Lunch, Dinner

Mercantile Dining & Provision $$$

LoDo / American Chef Alex Seidel offers contemporary farm-to-table fare, including pasta dishes and family-style shared plates. Reservations accepted. 1701 Wynkoop St., Suite 155, 720-460-3733. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Misfit Snackbar $$

and more. Reservations accepted. 630 S. Federal Blvd., 303-936-4954. Lunch, Dinner

Noble Riot $$$

RiNo / American Find charcuterie boards, fried chicken, and other picnic-ready fare at this sommelier-operated natural wine bar. Reservations accepted. 1336 27th St., 303-993-5330. Dinner

NOLA Voodoo Tavern $$

Cole / Southern New Orleans native and owner Henry Batiste serves his grandmother’s recipes for gumbo, po’ boys, and much more at this Louisianainspired spot. Reservations accepted. 2231 Bruce Randolph Ave., 720-389-9544. Lunch, Dinner

North County $$

Lowry Field / Mexican With a beach bar atmosphere in a landlocked state, this taqueria boasts a daily catch of grilled fish tacos and a bar full of tequila libations and spiked sodas bottled inhouse. Reservations accepted. 94 Rampart Way, 720-532-0106. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

La Cueva $$

LAurora / Mexican You’ll find excellent chiles rellenos and refried beans at this spot, plus a nice wine list and more than 120 types of tequila. Reservations accepted. 9742 E. Colfax Ave., Aurora, 303-367-1422. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

La Diabla $$

Ballpark / Mexican James Beard Award finalist Jose Avila serves up pozole and other traditional Mexican fare at this casual eatery. Don’t miss the weekend brunch. Reservations not accepted. 2233 Larimer St., 720-519-1060. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Linger $$

LoHi / International Set in the three-story former Olinger Mortuary, this restaurant has fabulous views of downtown while taking you around the world with its menu of small plates. Reservations accepted. 2030 W. 30th Ave., 303-993-3120. Dinner, Brunch

Little Finch $

LoDo / Cafe Mary Nguyen’s sister concept to Olive & Finch serves all-day coffee, cocktails, baked goods, hot dishes, and more. Reservations not accepted. 1490 16th Street Mall, 303-7289746. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Logan Street Restaurant & Bar $$$

Speer / Mediterranean From the owners behind Carboy Winery, Logan Street serves wood-fired fare, fresh pastas, and flatbreads that pair well with the house-made vino. Reservations accepted. 400 E. Seventh Ave., 720-617-9400. Dinner

City Park / Contemporary Chef-owner Bo Porytko serves a rotating lineup of imaginative but familiar pub fare at this walk-up kitchen inside Middleman cocktail bar. Try the chips and dip: smashed potatoes with an ever-changing house sauce. Reservations not accepted. 3401 E. Colfax Ave., 303-353-4207. Dinner

Mono Mono Korean Fried Chicken $$

LoDo / Korean Savor crispy Korean fried chicken wings along with sides like kimchi and pickled daikon at this industrial eatery. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 1550 Blake St., 720-379-6567. Lunch, Dinner

Moxie Eatery $

Speer / International Taste local Colorado ingredients in the lamb sandwich or chicken ramen at this globally inspired eatery. Be sure to try the vegetarian acorn squash torta. Reservations not accepted. 70 Broadway, Suite 150, 303-5249236. Breakfast, Lunch

OOak at Fourteenth $$$$ Boulder / Seasonal This bright, open space just off the Pearl Street Mall offers a diverse, everchanging menu of seasonal, oak-fired eats from chef Steve Redzikowski and creative cocktails from Bryan Dayton. Reservations accepted. 1400 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-444-3622. Dinner

Officers Club $$$

Lowry Field / American Nosh on American staples like cheddar biscuits, a prime rib French dip, and the juicy bacon burger at this neighborhood dining room and bar, which is inspired by the military legacy of the Lowry Air Force Base. Reservations accepted. 84 Rampart Way, 303-284-0714. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Ohana Island Kitchen $

LoHi / Seafood This Hawaiian-inspired eatery serves top-notch tuna poke, Spam musubi, and more in a casual setting. Reservations not accepted. 2563 15th St., 303-718-6580. Lunch, Dinner

Onefold $$ City Park West / Contemporary This eatery does early-day dining justice. Pair the fried rice with house-made bone broth or a local IPA. Also try the LoDo location. Reservations not accepted. 1420 E. 18th Ave., 303-954-0877. Breakfast, Lunch

Nest Cafe & Bar $$

NWest Highland / Health This counter-service eatery inside Nurture marketplace offers a menu of smoothies, coffee, salads, tartines, dosas, and other wholesome fare. Reservations not accepted. 2949 Federal Blvd., 303-390-1252. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

New Saigon $$ Westwood / Vietnamese This spot serves an extensive menu featuring salads, pho, seafood dishes,

Ophelia’s Electric Soapbox $$ Ballpark / Contemporary This Edible Beats restaurant features quirky design details and a stage for live music. Reservations accepted. 1215 20th St., 303-993-8023. Dinner, Brunch

Osteria Marco $$$

LoDo / Italian This casual tavern features deep-set wooden booths and a spacious bar. The menu lists approachable eats, such as house-made fresh mozzarella and rustic pizzas. Reservations accepted. 1453 Larimer St., 303-534-5855. Lunch, Dinner

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Park Hill Sushi Co. $$ Hale / Sushi This quick-service sushi spot specializes in made-to-order hand rolls. Order a hand roll set and choose from a variety of fresh fillings like blue crab, spicy tuna, and spicy scallop. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 4900 E. Colfax Ave., 303-953-9581. Lunch, Dinner

Pete’s Kitchen $ Cheesman Park / American A Denver landmark and a staple for late-night comfort food, Pete’s is known for its breakfasts but also serves burgers, gyros, and souvlaki sandwiches any time of day. Reservations not accepted. 1962 E. Colfax Ave., 303-321-3139. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Phoenician Kabob $$$

South Park Hill / Mediterranean This quiet restaurant serves a solid menu of Middle Eastern and Lebanese fare. Try the sabanekh, pastries stuffed with spinach, onion, and pine nuts. Reservations accepted. 5709 E. Colfax Ave., 720-477-0046. Lunch, Dinner

Pizzeria Lui $$

Lakewood / Pizza Seasonal pies are baked to order in a Gianni Acunto Napoli oven imported from Naples, Italy. Try the street taco pizza, which is topped with house-made chorizo, corn, cotija cheese, tomatillo salsa, mozzarella, and cilantro. Reservations not accepted. 5380 W. Mississippi Ave., Lakewood, 303-922-3202. Dinner

Post Oak Barbecue $$ Berkeley / Barbecue Texas barbecue smoked over the restaurant’s namesake wood is the draw at this Tennyson Street joint. Don’t miss the certified Angus prime brisket and the house-made sausage. Reservations not accepted. 4000 Tennyson St., 303-458-1555. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Punch Bowl Social $$ Baker / American This restaurant is perfect for food and play. Dine any time of day off the dinerinspired menu while entertaining yourself with bowling, pingpong, shuffleboard, and more. Also try the Stapleton location. Reservations accepted. 65 N. Broadway, 303-765-2695. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

QQ House $$ City Park / Chinese Enjoy a modern take on Chinese cuisine executed by chef Christopher Lin, an alum of Momofuku in New York City, at this hip Chinese eatery. Try the braised pork rice. Reservations accepted. 3421 E. Colfax Ave., 720-729-8887. Dinner

Quality Italian $$$$ Cherry Creek / Steak House This upscale spot serves a smart mix of steak house fare and American-Italian favorites. Try the baked lasagna for two. Reservations accepted. 241 Columbine St., 303-532-8888. Dinner, Brunch

Que Bueno Suerte! $$$

Platt Park / Mexican The menu at this vibrant restaurant offers familiar items like tacos and fajitas as well as upscale, regionally inspired Mexican fare. Try the molcajete, available on Friday and Saturday. Reservations accepted. 1518 S. Pearl St., 720-642-7322. Dinner, Brunch

Quiero Arepas $

Platt Park / Latin American The entirely glutenfree menu offers delicious selections like the pollo guisado arepa, a flatbread stuffed with shredded chicken, black beans, and cheese. Also check out the LoHi location. Reservations not accepted. 1859 S. Pearl St., 720-432-4205.

Lunch, Dinner

RReckless Noodles $

Capitol Hill / Asian This chic, neon-lit restaurant serves noodle dishes influenced by a variety of East and Southeast Asian cuisines. Try the turmeric rockfish or the grilled beef in betel leaves, both served over Vietnamese rice vermicelli. Reservations not accepted. 800 Sherman St., 720-734-2518. Dinner

Redeemer Pizza $$$

RiNo / Pizza Spencer White and Alex Figura, the duo behind Dio Mio, bring blistered, New York City–style sourdough pizza to RiNo. Nosh on full pies in the dining room or nab a slice from the walkup window in the back. Reservations accepted.

2705 Larimer St., 720-780-1379. Dinner

Rioja $$$$

LoDo / Mediterranean James Beard Award–winning chef Jennifer Jasinski creates high-end Mediterranean-influenced cuisine. Also try her lunchtime takeout pop-up, Flavor Dojo, which offers health-forward bowls made with local heirloom grains and greens. Reservations accepted. 1431 Larimer St., 303-820-2282.

Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Rosenberg’s Bagels & Delicatessen $$

Five Points / Deli Get your fix of New York–style bagels at this deli. Don’t miss the Standard—a bagel and cream cheese topped with gravlax, tomato, and onion. Also try the Stanley Marketplace location. Reservations not accepted. 725 E. 26th Ave., 720-440-9880. Breakfast, Lunch

Rouge Wine Bar & Patio $$$

Greenwood Village / American From the team behind Pindustry, this 1920s-themed bar boasts an extensive wine list and international small plates, like lamb merguez and green curry mussels. Reservations not accepted. 7939 E. Arapahoe Road, Suite 190, Greenwood Village, 720-864-9463. Dinner, Brunch

Russell’s Smokehouse $$$

LoDo / Barbecue Diners flock to this subterranean smokehouse for classic ‘cue. Try the falling-off-thebone rib combo, with your choice of brisket, pulled pork, and chicken. Reservations accepted. 1422 Larimer St., 720-524-8050. Dinner

SSafta $$$$

RiNo / Mediterranean Acclaimed chef Alon Shaya brings his modern Israeli fare to Denver. Start with the creamy hummus and pillowy woodoven pita before moving onto tabbouleh salad, short rib-stuffed cabbage, and harissa chicken. Reservations accepted. 3330 Brighton Blvd., Suite 201, 720-408-2444. Dinner, Brunch

SAME Café $

City Park West / Seasonal This relaxed lunch spot, short for So All May Eat, pairs pay-what-you-can pricing with an ever-changing menu. Name your price for dishes like soup and pizza. Reservations not accepted. 2023 E. Colfax Ave., 720-5306853. Lunch

Somebody People $$$

Overland / Mediterranean At this vegan restaurant, Sam and Tricia Maher and head chef Art Burnayev run a pasta program with dishes that celebrate seasonal bounty. Try the Feed Me experience. Reservations accepted. 1165 S. Broadway, Suite 104, 720-502-5681. Dinner

Spuntino $$$$

Highland / Italian Enjoy the locally sourced menu at this Italian-inspired, husband-and-wife-owned spot. Try the seasonal pasta or any dish with Southern Indian influences. Don’t miss the house-made gelato for dessert. Reservations accepted. 2639 W. 32nd Ave., 303-433-0949. Dinner

Stanley Marketplace $$

Aurora / International Formerly the Stanley Aviation building, this site is now home to a sprawling, food-centric marketplace. Stop by and check out the offerings from Annette, Stanley Beer Hall, Sweet Cow Ice Cream, Comida, Logan House Coffee, Miette et Chocolat, Rosenberg’s Bagels & Delicatessen, and many more. 2501 Dallas St., Aurora, 720-990-6743. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Steuben’s $$

Uptown / American With food like house-made mac and cheese and fried chicken, plus retro booths, this restaurant makes the 1950s feel right around the corner. Don’t forget to grab dessert before you leave. Reservations accepted. 523 E. 17th Ave., 303-830-1001. Lunch, Dinner

Sunday Vinyl $$$

LoDo / European This Union Station restaurant offers warm hospitality and exquisite cuisine, all to the soundtrack of a vinyl-only playlist. The gougères, bronzini, and all of the dessert offerings are must-tries. Reservations accepted. 1803 16th St, 720-738-1803. Dinner, Brunch

Super Mega Bien $$$

RiNo / Latin American Chef Dana Rodriguez offers a combo of large-format, shareable items and Pan-Latin small plates, the latter of which are served from roving dim-sum-style carts. Try the slow-braised beef brisket with a creamy chipotle slaw. Reservations not accepted. 1260 25th St., 720-269-4695. Dinner

Tamayo $$$

TLoDo / Mexican This spot’s modern menu is derived from authentic Mexican roots and ingredients. Check out the rooftop lounge and the selection of more than 100 tequilas. Reservations accepted. 1400 Larimer St., 720-946-1433.

Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Tavernetta $$$$

LoDo / Italian The team behind Boulder’s acclaimed Frasca Food and Wine offers the same attention to hospitality at this more casual Denver restaurant. The charming space is home to dishes from across Italy and a deep wine list. Reservations accepted. 1889 16th St., 720-605-1889. Lunch, Dinner

TeaLee’s Teahouse and Bookstore $$

Five Points / International Head to this charming teahouse-bookstore-market for loose-leaf and specialty teas and all-day fare like soups, salads, sandwiches, and freshly baked pastries. Reservations accepted. 611 22nd St., 303-593-2013.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Tocabe, An American Indian Eatery $ Berkeley / American Feast on Indigenous fare like fry bread tacos with bison, beans, lettuce, cheese, and salsas or spicy potato- and corn-laden green chile stew at this fast-casual spot. Also try the Greenwood Village location. Reservations not accepted. 3536 W. 44th Ave., 720-524-8282.

Lunch, Dinner

Tofu House 1962 $$

Aurora / Korean Enjoy authentic Korean fare at this neighborhood spot, which specializes in soups and stews but also offers a variety of other options. Reservations accepted. 2353 S. Havana St., Suite D1, Aurora, 303-751-2840. Lunch, Dinner

The Truffle Table $$

LoHi / Seasonal As an offshoot of the Truffle Cheese Shop, it’s no surprise that a variety of cheese boards and fromage-focused small plates color the menu. Reservations not accepted. 2556 15th St., 303-455-9463. Dinner

UUchi Denver $$$$ Curtis Park / Japanese James Beard Award–winning chef Tyson Cole combines unexpected flavors for his unique take on Japanese food. Visit for the daily happy hour, when nigiri and temaki are less than $10. Reservations accepted. 2500 Lawrence St., 303-444-1922. Dinner

Uncle $$

Speer / Asian A bustling atmosphere defines this popular noodle house. The concise menu includes dishes such as Chinese-style steamed buns and, of course, noodles. Also try the Highland location. Reservations not accepted. 95 S. Pennsylvania St., 720-638-1859. Dinner

Unravel Coffee $

Virginia Village / Cafe House-roasted beans and high-tech tools lead to stellar espresso drinks at this Virginia Village coffeeshop. You can also enjoy nourishing toasts, salads, and smoothies from inside the comfortably modern space. Reservations not accepted. 1441 S. Holly St., 303-537-7773.

Breakfast, Lunch

Urban Farmer $$$

LoDo / Seasonal This steak house features wholeanimal butchery and an excellent charcuterie program. Reservations accepted. 1659 Wazee St., 303-262-6070. Dinner, Brunch

Urban Village Grill $$$

Lone Tree / Indian Chef Charles Mani serves classic and contemporary dishes from regions across India at this eatery inside Park Meadows Mall. Reservations accepted. 8505 Park Meadows Center Drive, Suite 2184A, Lone Tree, 720-5368565. Lunch, Dinner

US Thai Cafe $

Edgewater / Thai Fresh ingredients, spicy dishes, and a chef straight from Thailand make for an authentic, if mouth-tingling, dining experience. Reservations accepted. 5228 W. 25th Ave., Edgewater, 303-233-3345. Lunch, Dinner

White Pie $$$

City Park West / Pizza This neighborhood joint has an excellent selection of New Haven–style pizzas and house-made pastas. Try the Porky Porkorino, topped with soppressata, mozzarella, pickled chiles, and hot honey. Reservations not accepted. 1702 Humboldt St., 303-862-5323. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Whittier Cafe $

Whittier / Cafe This espresso bar, which supports social-justice-related causes, serves coffee, beer, and wine sourced from African nations and a small menu of pastries, burritos, panini, and more. Reservations not accepted. 1710 E. 25th Ave., 720-550-7440. Breakfast, Lunch

Wild Taco $

Capitol Hill / Mexican Casual, modern Mexicaninspired bites from chef Javier Sanchez (formerly of Tamayo and Osaka Ramen) draw Denverites to Capitol Hill’s Wild Taco. Reservations not accepted. 215 E. Seventh Ave., 303-856-7145. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

The Wolf’s Tailor $$$$ Sunnyside / American Chef Kelly Whitaker fuses Asian and Italian techniques and ingredients at this hip Sunnyside eatery. The results, such as 7X brisket braised in dashi and red wine, are uniquely delicious. Reservations accepted. 4058 Tejon St., 720-456-6705. Dinner

Work & Class $$$

Yard House $$

Downtown / Fusion Enjoy fun and casual American fare at this eatery featuring a center island bar and classic rock tunes. Order the sesame-crusted ahi. Also try the Lakewood location. Reservations not accepted. 1555 Court Place, 303-572-9273. Lunch, Dinner

Yazoo Barbeque Company $

Five Points / Barbecue This unpretentious barbecue joint offers a Deep South menu, featuring slow-smoked pork ribs and brisket. Reservations not accepted. 2150 Broadway, 303-296-3334. Lunch, Dinner

YumCha $$

LoDo / Asian From restaurateur Lon Symensma of ChoLon and LeRoux comes a dim sum house and noodle bar serving staples like xiaolongbao and steamed pork dumplings. Reservations accepted. 1520 16th Street Mall, 720-6388179. Lunch, Dinner

ViewHouse $$

VBallpark / American This is your place to catch the game and enjoy a variety of bar bites, from burgers and tacos to steak. Watch your favorite sports team while enjoying a draft beer and a plate of nachos, or catch a view of the city from the rooftop bar. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 2015 Market St., 720-878-2015.

Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Vital Root $$

Berkeley / American Justin Cucci’s fourth eatery focuses on quick, healthy food. Grab a seat in the airy space and nosh on creative, wholesome fare such as cashew queso dip or a sunflower risotto. Reservations not accepted. 3915 Tennyson St., 303-474-4131. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Voghera Ristorante & Apericena $$$

Berkeley / Italian Enjoy Italian-style tapas such as beef tartare, burrata, and pancetta-wrapped scallops at this rustic Berkeley outpost. Reservations not accepted. 3963 Tennyson St., 303-455-9111.

Dinner, Brunch

Watercourse Foods $$

Uptown / American This vegetarian icon has been serving wholesome food since 1998. The zesty soups, salads, and wraps are healthy and delicious. Don’t miss the brunch specials. Reservations accepted. 837 E. 17th Ave., 303-832-7313.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

RiNo / American This elevated meat-and-three concept offers a delicious hybrid of American and Latin cuisine in raucous, repurposed-shippingcontainer digs. Our pick: the rotisserie chicken, chickpea croquettes, and the roasted Colorado lamb. Reservations not accepted. 2500 Larimer St., 303-292-0700. Dinner

ZZeppelin Station $$ RiNo / International This industrial-chic food hall is home to eight globally inspired food and drink vendors, including Procession Coffee, Purisma, Pesto, and Gyros King. 3501 Wazee St., 720862-0008. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Zocalito Latin Bistro $$$ Downtown / Mexican Formerly located in Aspen, chef/owner Michael Beary’s upscale Oaxacan eatery found a home in the heart of Denver. Try the pork tenderloin with red mole sauce. Reservations accepted. 999 18th St., Suite 107, 720923-5965. Dinner

Xicamiti La Taquería $$ Golden / Mexican This long-standing joint serves cooked-to-order burritos, tacos, quesadillas, and alambres (skillet dishes) made with recipes inspired by Walter Meza’s childhood in Mexico. Reservations not accepted. 715 Washington Ave., Golden, 303-215-3436. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

XZoe Ma Ma $ LoDo / Chinese This cozy, counter-service spot offers Chinese home-style cooking. Order the Sichuan braised beef noodle soup, which features house-made noodles. Also try the Boulder location. Reservations not accepted. 1625 Wynkoop St., 303-545-6262. Lunch, Dinner

Zomo $$ Englewood / Asian Owners Alysia Davey and Ryan Anderson serve family recipes inspired by their Vietnamese and Chinese roots. Reservations accepted. 3457 S. Broadway, Englewood, 720-739-8882. Lunch, Dinner

YWYacht Club $ Cole / American Enjoy classic and creative cocktails at this loungelike bar alongside an array of snacks. Reservations not accepted. 3701 N. Williams St., 720-443-1135. Dinner

Yahya’s Mediterranean Grill & Pastries $$ City Park West / Mediterranean This family-run restaurant serves silky hummus, a variety of excellent grilled kebabs, and from-scratch sweets. Try the beef koobideh. Reservations accepted. 2207 E. Colfax Ave., 720-532-8746. Lunch, Dinner

Zorba’s $$ Congress Park / Greek Zorba’s has served American and Greek fare—burgers, salads, sandwiches, and classic breakfast dishes—in the Congress Park neighborhood since 1979. Don’t miss the gyro sandwich. Reservations not accepted. 2626 E. 12th Ave., 303-321-0091. Breakfast, Dinner, Lunch

 These listings are in no way related to advertising in 5280. If you find that a restaurant differs significantly from the information in its listing or your favorite restaurant is missing from the Dining Guide, please let us know. Write us at 5280 Publishing, Inc., 1675 Larimer St., Suite 675, Denver, CO 80202 or dining@5280.com.

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of the trunk of my car. My boss told me, “If your trunk gets full of cash, call me on the radio. But don’t say, ‘Come get the money’; we don’t want everyone to know you have all that money. Just say, ‘I need a ham and cheese sandwich.’ ” So I’m out there wheeling and dealing, and pretty soon, I’ve got so much money that it’s probably worth more than the car. So I call my boss on the radio: “I need a ham and cheese sandwich right away!” And she goes, “OK!” And we’re all on one channel, and everybody starts chiming in. “Hey! If you’re doing a run, will you get me a corned beef on rye?” “I’ll take a salami and cheese!” She picks up, like, 20 sandwiches from [Baked in Telluride] and brings ’em around town. When she gets to me, she goes, “Dennis, we have to change the password.” The funny thing was nobody had a lock on their door, so she decided the best place to keep the money was in her freezer. Well, on Sunday, she’d come around with a sack full of frozen money. We literally got paid in

The festival resists commercialism, but as we became able to support bigger acts, we’d get these road crews all dressed in black from New York City coming in and wanting to take over the scene backstage. They required us to provide their bands with security, so we were hiring our nephews, who were 16 and 17, to act as security and protect the artists from us.

Rich “Big Daddy” Estes (festival fixer since 1983, Town of Telluride streets superintendent): In 1997, I was standing backstage with Skip Kent, our stage manager, and he introduced me to Johnny Cash, who was letting one of his daughters play by herself during their set. He knew Skip really well, and Skip goes, “I want to introduce you to Johnny Cash.” I said, “Hello, sir, it’s very nice to meet you.” Skip turns toward me and says, “This is Big Daddy.” And Cash goes, “Oh, I love that name,” and shook my hand. As we’re standing there, he says, “You know, bless her heart, she sings as hard as she can, but she just doesn’t quite have it.” And I said, “She

sounds beautiful to me, sir.” He goes, “Thank you so much for telling me that, Big Daddy.” Then he walked back out and finished his set. It was a touching moment from one of his last live shows. And there was nobody in the crowd who thought she sucked.

PRESENT DAY (2004–2023)

Sam Bush may be known as the King of Telluride, but he’s far from alone in his devotion to the festival. Over 50 years, only three people have booked the acts, only three have run parking, and only one—Cohn—has run security. Still, Bush’s enthusiasm and energy are legendary among TBF fans as well as his fellow musicians, who often request his presence on stage during their sets.

Bush: I really feel that I have grown up playing at Telluride. I was 23 the first year I came. This year, I’ll be 71. It’s hard to overstate the importance that it has played in my life. I’m fortunate to get to play a lot of well-thought-of festivals, but none is as well thought of as Telluride. It’s its own force.

Mustard: Sam’s a friend, but he just has a very special spirit. You can feel it. I’m telling you, Sam does not drink or take drugs; he wants to be able to play until the day he dies. It’s about the music to him. Doing what he does in Telluride is like holding a beach ball underwater with one hand.

O’Brien: The way he plays that mandolin, the forward thrust of that thing—it rules. He brings that same forward thrust to everything he does. He’s got so much energy he could power a small city.

Ferguson: I don’t think I can explain Sam’s significance to the festival. I mean, the festival is Sam. There’s no direction it grew that he couldn’t join. Classical, Irish, jazz, whatever. There might not be a more respected musician on the planet. People love to play with Sam. Somebody like Yo-Yo Ma—he can play with anybody—and he loves to play with Sam Bush. And certainly, in Telluride, if Sam walks out to join your band, you’re joining the fraternity.

Scott Knauer/Courtesy of Planet Bluegrass

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AAPI WOMEN-LED BUSINESSES

AUG 19, 2023

4-10 PM AT TIVOLI TURNHALLE (900 AURARIA PKWY, DENVER, CO)

TICKETS ON SALE JUNE 1ST

ASIANGIRLSIGNITE.ORG/ELEVASIAN

ASIAN GIRLS IGNITE IS A NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION THAT CONNECTS ASIAN AMERICAN AND PACIFIC ISLANDER (AAPI) GIRLS & GENDER-EXPANSIVE YOUTH (GRADES 6-12) WITH TRANSFORMATIVE EXPERIENCES LED BY AAPI WOMEN STORYTELLERS. ALL PROCEEDS RAISED WILL GO TOWARDS THEIR PROGRAMS.

WWW.ASIANGIRLSIGNITE.ORG | @ASIANGIRLSIGNITE | HELLO@ASIANGIRLSIGNITE.ORG

INSPIRATION AWAITS at HOTEL CLIO

MOUNTAIN MUSIC

Bush: There were a couple of years when I almost didn’t play. I was diagnosed with testicular cancer in November 1982 that required two surgeries and chemotherapy. Being back onstage in Telluride was a tearful experience. Then, in 2019, I had a bowel obstruction on Mother’s Day and underwent four surgeries in a month. We canceled a lot of shows, but at home in Nashville, I said, “I am not missing Telluride.” Bryan Sutton would come over and help me work out muscularly. Stephen Mougin helped restore my lung power. Telluride was my first show back. [My wife], Lynn, worried that I wasn’t strong enough, and maybe I should’ve waited. But I couldn’t have enjoyed playing more.

Denise Mongan (longtime TBF camping director and lodging coordinator): I really appreciate the fact that hippie kids can still come and experience Telluride and afford it. They can sleep on the ground and get on a school bus and go into town. The average Joe cannot move here, but he can attend the bluegrass festival and experience barefoot dancing in the park.

Big Daddy: One time I saw these two girls trying to schlep their camping gear to a site in town. I go by on my fourwheeler and say, “Hey, let me help you.” They were so giddy. They’re like, “We came here looking for guys.” That was their goal. They wanted to hook up, party, and listen to bluegrass. So I rolled in with them to a site where 15 guys were standing around drinking beer, and I said, “Hey, fellas, these girls are looking for someone to check ’em for ticks.” And the guys looked at me, like, Really? And the girls said, “That’s right. That’s what we’re here for. We want to be checked for ticks.”

Courtesy of Benko Photographics

Campers at TBF in 2005. The festival has benefited from its majestic setting in the San Juan Mountains.

Book your romantic stay with Hotel Clio and enjoy luxury amenities, breathtaking Rocky Mountain views, and immersive dining experiences.

How can we continue to live in the West

as it dries out?

Listen to Parched, a new podcast from Colorado Public Radio about the people who rely on the Colorado River –and have ideas to save it.

Listen today

Supported in part by:

WALK DOC with a

MOUNTAIN MUSIC

People try to capture that every year— relive their youth. I think that’s what Bluegrass is: It’s their youth.

Mustard: The restricted dimensions are very important. It isn’t huge. I think that’s part of the reason why the festival has not been swallowed by one of these godforsaken companies that eat festivals and shit ’em out. They could buy Telluride and cancel it so they get better attendance somewhere else. But it’s not quite big enough to be eaten by the large predators.

Ferguson: We’ve had two serious offers from companies to sell the festival over the past five years, but we’ve never been too interested in that. Probably no amount of money would make it worth compromising what we’ve created for the past 30 years.

O’Brien: I’ve played all but three of the festivals. In 2007, I thought, what happens if you don’t go? So I stayed home and discovered that I just did a bunch of dumb gigs. And I was missing it. And I said, Why would I do that? It’s almost like a duty. That festival has given me a musical life in a lot of ways, and I don’t want to miss it.

Mustard: When I stopped emceeing in 2006, I was miffed. But I have to say, the Telluride Bluegrass Festival is the love of my life.

Cohn: I’m 74, and when I talk to Craig, he sometimes asks, “How much longer do you want to do this?” And I go, “It’s in my DNA now. It’s who I am, what I am.” We stand at the gate at the end of the festival and thank 10,000 people as they’re leaving. It’s a great feeling. The people are going, “Hey, thanks, you guys; thanks for doing this.” It’s real.

Ferguson: We’re in a situation where one email sells out the festival. I didn’t even feel like we could announce this year’s lineup with our standard press release. Who does that help? It’s not going to help the people who have tickets, and we don’t need help selling tickets in the future. So I’m telling our staff, and they have this blank look on their faces, like, That’s not marketing! But we’ve done the marketing. For 50 years, we put on a show. Now, we enjoy it. m

The 25 Best Neighborhoods in Denver

Whether you’re looking to buy a home or explore Denver’s vast and varied locales, we’ve crunched the numbers to bring you our exclusive list of the 25 best neighborhoods in the Mile High City.

SCAN TO FIND OUT WHICH NEIGHBORHOODS MADE THE CUT 

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Photo by Marvin Anani

JUNE 8-11

(e)revolution & The Big Gear Show

Colorado Convention Center

Two shows, one event:

(e)revolution: test drive e-bikes from global brands on their indoor demo track.

The Big Gear Show: learn about outdoor recreation products and meet their innovators.

B2B Trade Show, June 8 & 9, Consumer Show, June 10 & 11 Information and tickets at thebiggearshow.com.

JUNE 21

High Line Canal Summer Scamper

James A. Bible Park | 5-8 p.m.

Join us on June 21 for the High Line Canal Summer Scamper 5K at Denver’s Bible Park! Enjoy a fun course and solstice celebration while helping to protect and enhance the High Line Canal. Let’s scamper into summer together at this all-ages and abilities, family and pet-friendly event! Register today.

Information and registration at highlinecanal.org/summer-scamper.

JULY 20

5280 Top of the Town

Cherry Creek North | 6-9 p.m.

Celebrate 30 years of 5280 magazine with us at this all-inclusive bash! Enjoy flavorful menus from top local restaurants, delightful drink offerings, thrilling entertainment, lounges, photo booths, and much more. Get your tickets today!

Information and tickets at 5280scene.com.

AUG 25-27

Susan G. Komen 3-Day

Denver

Join thousands of survivors, families and friends who raise money each year to help end breast cancer. Walk with us one, two or all three days. Sign up at The3Day.org/5280. Use code 5280 to save 30% off your registration fee!

Information and registration at The3Day.org.

LAVISH LIVING IN THE RANCH COUNTRY CLUB

2610 RANCH RESERVE RIDGE | WESTMINSTER | Price Upon Request

Set on a prime lot on the 14th hole of The Ranch Country Club, this meticulously maintained marquee home offers lavish living in an ideal neighborhood. Enter the vaulted foyer to expansive windows illuminating a curved staircase and custom woodwork. The main level introduces a cohesive, open flow of living, dining, office, multiple fireplaces and a high-end kitchen with premium appliances. A seamless indoor-outdoor experience ties into the surrounding golf course and leads you to multiple patio spaces, an outdoor fireplace and a spa. With its exceptional views, location, design and outdoor spaces this property is a flawless luxury retreat.

Karen Bernardi

303.402.6000

karenb@thebernardigroup.com

TheBernardiGroup.com

DENVER | $1,775,000

Urban Contemporary Home in The Hale neighborhood. Entering the front door you instantly notice the 20-foot ceilings with a warm fireplace and sitting area. The kitchen hosts GE Monogram appliances with a wine fridge. An oversized dining area is adjacent to the kitchen. The primary bedroom occupies an en-suite bath, a large walk-in closet and a walkout to the backyard. Complete with a finished basement and a huge 3-car garage.

Nick Bruce 720.829.8938 nick@luxurydenver.co | LuxuryDenver.co

ARVADA | $1,125,000

Elegant, custom golf course ranch-style 4br/4ba home sits on a secluded cul-de-sac with scenic views of the West Woods Golf Course green. This charming home offers a spacious 4,710 SQFT, of which 4,216 is finished, with a main-floor primary bedroom & walk-out basement. Featuring a formal dining room, living room, downstairs family room, upstairs office, 3-car garage, hardwood floors & 2 fireplaces.

Tim Spong 303.217.1283 tim.spong@cbrealty.com | timcoloradoliv.com

LAFAYETTE | $4,975,000

Nestled behind gates & down a picturesque drive sits this stunning 3br/4ba property on over 36 acres with unmatched views & superb equestrian facilities. Luxury living close to town.

The Bernardi Group 303.402.6000 info@thebernardigroup.com | TheBernardiGroup.com

BOULDER | $3,000,000

Stunning 3br/5ba modern farmhouse, privately situated on a 2-acre lot with unmatched views. Meticulously updated home + 3 stall barn, corral & 3 pens for horses/livestock.

Karen Bernardi 303.402.6000 karenb@thebernardigroup.com | TheBernardiGroup.com

BOULDER | $1,650,000

Spacious 4br/3ba home in Table Mesa with 2,819 SF & 2-car garage featuring hardwood floors, large picture windows & wood-lined vaulted ceilings w/skylights. Blocks from hiking trails.

Kim Dunning 303.588.6037 kim@kimdunning.com | KimDunning.com

LAKEWOOD | $1,375,000

Beautiful 4br/3ba home w/ADU located in Lakewood with close RTD Light Rail access. Featuring an open main living space w/dining area, living room w/fireplace & custom kitchen. The 1br/1ba ADU has private access, full kitchen & 2 private decks.

Jake Rapplean 720.694.0771

jake.rapplean@cbrealty.com | JakeRappleanEstates.com

LONE TREE | $1,150,000

5br/5ba home. Family room w/fireplace. Kitchen w/SS appliances, a double oven and newer solid slab granite countertops. Main level owner’s suite w/a recently remodeled bath and a walk-in closet. Complete w/a finished basement, a back deck and patio.

Julie Thelander 303.520.2308

julie.thelander@cbrealty.com | FindHomeColorado.com

WATKINS | $1,095,000

6br/5ba home in Watkins Farm. Chef's kitchen, center island, double ovens, and breakfast nook. Primary bedroom: gas fireplace, 5-piece bath and dual walk-in closets. Finished basement, home theater, 4-car garage. 2.41-acres, backing to open space.

Matt Brinkhoff 303.324.0241

matt.brinkhoff@cbrealty.com | MattsColoradoHomes.com

ARVADA | $1,050,000

5br/4ba home in West Woods Ranch on a 1/3 acre lot with mountain views. Featuring extensive remodeling & Caruso-designed kitchen. Centrally located near Ralston Creek Trail, Apex Rec Center, West Woods 27 Hole Golf Course/Restaurant & much more.

Lynn Hodges 303.913.0166 lynn.hodges@cbrealty.com | lynnhodgesco.com

BOULDER | Price Upon Request

2br/2ba condo in the Peloton building w/1-level living. Enjoy stainless steel appliances wood flooring and an oversized primary bedroom with a 5-piece bath. Building includes 2 coveted underground parking spaces and a 3-story community center.

Richard Harris 720.331.9855 ra.harris@comcast.net | HarrisHomesColorado.com

ARVADA | Price Upon Request

West-facing 3,200 square foot 4br/4ba home featuring an open concept 2-story great room, kitchen and dining area. Spacious primary suite w/walk-in closet. Complete with multi-tiered landscape, dog run, composite wood deck & 3-car tandem garage.

Tara Laventure 603.540.5919 taralaventurehomes@gmail.com | DizilloLaventureSellsColorado.com

CASTLE PINES | Price Upon Request

Updated 6br/4ba home on the 5th hole on the Ridge Golf Course w/amazing view of the pond & fairway. Featuring a study, living room w/stone fireplace, kitchen w/granite counters & ss appliances & walkout finished basement w/kitchenette & fireplace.

Lisa Welsh 303.249.4717 lisa.welsh@cbrealty.com | DreamHomesInCO.com

HIGHLANDS RANCH | $965,000

5br/4ba home w/4,000+ sqft. Main floor w/a dining room, well-appointed kitchen, living room, guest room, bathroom and office. Primary suite w/mountain views, an en-suite bath and walk-in closet. Finished basement w/a home theater area and wet bar.

Kelly Paulk 720.822.2159 kelly@InfinityProsRE.com | InfinityProKelly.com

EVERGREEN | $900,000

5br/4ba home in Evergreen Highlands. Great room w/a wood burning stove. Primary suite w/a deck entrance and views of the mountains. Remodeled basement w/a family room and 3/4 bath. Deck overlooks private 2-acre property w/mountain views.

Taylor Carpenter 303.909.2108 taylor@taylorcarpenterhomes.com | TaylorCarpenterHomes.com

LONGMONT

Stunning two-story 6br/6ba home in Harvest Junction Village featuring a spacious and open floor plan. Featuring a large kitchen, butler’s pantry, study, loft area, primary bedroom w/5pc bath & a walk-in closet & fully finished basement w/wet bar.

Jake Rapplean 720.694.0771 jake.rapplean@cbrealty.com | JakeRappleanEstates.com

LITTLETON

Complete remodel in the heart of Littleton. Located across from a park, this home boasts hickory wood floors throughout, an elegant primary suite, a huge chef's kitchen, & an ideal backyard & patio for gathering friends & family.

Kristine Stirling 303.881.4768 kristine.stirling@coloradohomes.com | KristineStirling.com

Updated 4br/4ba ranch home with finished basement in desirable Casa Loma. This home sits on one acre with unobstructed mountain views. Complete w/fireplace, Trex deck w/pergola, fenced yard, dog run and oversized three-car garage w/EV-ready plugin.

Michelle A. Nelson 303.748.5247 michelle.nelson11@gmail.com | NelsonDreamHomes.com

Close to Daniels Park, Spacious 3br/3ba, formal living and dining room, family room w/a fireplace, main floor primary bedroom with an updated en-suite 5 piece bath and walk-in closet. Upstairs w/2 bedrooms, full bath and loft with mountain views. The Simonis Group 303.905.5137 Amber@TheSimonisGroup.com

LITTLETON

Own your very own slide of PARADISE in the heart of Littleton! The interior boasts a symphony of style mixed with elegance, towering high ceilings, a breathtaking kitchen overlooking an asymmetrically vaulted living room with a second-floor catwalk.

Jason Glowacki 720.661.3981

jason@timetoglowhome.com | TimeToGlowHome.com

5br/4ba home w/an open floor plan and beautiful finishes. The main floor offers a large kitchen, family room, dining room, and living room. Upstairs features a nice primary bedroom with a 5-piece bath, three secondary bedrooms and a dual bathroom.

Kelly Ellis 303.921.5420

kelly.ellis@cbrealty.com | ColdwellBanker.com/KellyEllis

| $895,000

| $875,000

SEVERANCE | $855,000

CASTLE PINES | $850,000

| $825,000

PARKER | $730,000

LONGMONT |

Custom built 3br/2ba ranch style home w/2-car garage featuring vaulted ceilings, hardwood floors, updated kitchen w/ss appliances & solid surface countertops, formal dining room & family room w/access to the backyard w/oversized patio area.

Cheryl Melichar 303.817.6163 cheryl.melichar@coloradohomes.com | CherylMelichar.cbintouch.com

guiding you home since 1906

COMMERCE CITY | Price Upon Request

Beautiful 4br/3ba home w/4-car garage in the Villages at Buffalo Run offering an open concept main floor with office, dream kitchen, butler's pantry & more. Centrally located, with easy access to multiple highways, dining, shopping & the airport.

Shannon Pace 303.919.2611 shannon@yourfreshstartgroup.com | YourFreshStartGroup.com

4br/2ba home on 2.5 acres in Black Forest w/a spacious floor plan. Enjoy a formal living room and formal dining room along w/a remodeled kitchen. Primary bedroom w/an updated bath. 2.5 ACRES horse allowed, barn fence backyard and a 2-car garage.

Elba Barr 719.332.5178 elba@casabarr.com | CasaBarr.com

LITTLETON | $679,000

Under Contract in 5 Days! This spacious 5 bedroom, 4 bath home is located in the coveted Ken Caryl community of Littleton, Colorado. Just outside of Denver, this beautiful home is within close distance of Chatfield State Park & Bear Creek Lake Park.

Sean Closset 720.308.7505 sean.closset@cbrealty.com | SeanSellsColorado.com

GOLDEN | $675,000

Welcome to the premier Parkview at the Golden 55+ community! This 2br/2ba ranch home features a covered porch with views, an eat-in kitchen, a living room with a fireplace, a primary with an ensuite bath and a Trex deck with an electric awning.

Shari Weissman 303.229.9723

shari.weissman@cbrealty.com

BAILEY | Price Upon Request

4br/3ba mountain oasis w/master retreat w/balcony, dual walk-in closets, & jetted steam shower & tub. 2 decks, 2 greenhouses & much more sitting on nearly one acre. Harris Park Estates connects to million+ acres of National Forest and Wilderness.

Dan DeBacco 720.955.6111

Dan.DeBacco@ColoradoHomes.com | DeBaccoProperties.com

$719,950

COLORADO SPRINGS | $699,999

MEAD | $625,000

5br/4ba home w/mountain views. Living room w/vaulted ceilings and a fireplace. Kitchen w/granite countertops, SS appliances, a pantry and dining area. Main floor primary suite w/walk-in closet and 5-piece bath. Complete w/a basement and 3-car garage.

Cheryl Melichar 303.817.6163 cheryl.melichar@coloradohomes.com | CherylMelichar.cbintouch.com

THORNTON | Price Upon Request

Spacious 3br/3ba 55+ duplex located in Heritage Todd Creek offing a stunning open floor plan with 10’ ceilings. Amenities offered at the clubhousetennis courts, game rooms, 2 pools, fitness center, restaurant & 18-hole golf course.

Linda Gilbert 720.232.1990

Greg Gilbert 303.250.9007

GOLDEN | Price Upon Request

Quaint 2br/1ba home with an oversized detached garage in Fairmont featuring an open-concept kitchen, dining & living space with gorgeous acacia hardwood floors. Enjoy views of Table Mountain & a completely fenced-in yard.

Tara Laventure 603.540.5919 taralaventurehomes@gmail.com | DizilloLaventureSellsColorado.com

THORNTON | $595,000

5br/3.5ba. Remodeled kitchen w/quartz countertops, cherry Shaker cabinets, stainless appliances. Primary suite has remodeled bath w/ heated marble floors. Complete w/a finished basement and a fenced yard w/a deck.

Cathy Schuster 303.478.6364

cathy.schuster@cbrealty.com | WestminsterRealEstate.com

LAKEWOOD | $575,000

4br/2ba home in Lakewood Village. Living room w/a fireplace. Kitchen w/a breakfast nook, peninsula and lots of cabinet space. Basement w/a family room, a great room w/a fireplace, a bedroom (non-conforming) and a 3/4 bath. Complete w/a 2-car garage.

Jason Putnik 720.470.7353

jason.putnik@coloradohomes.com | Putnik.Properties

AURORA | $575,000

3br/3ba home w/an open floor plan. Kitchen w/granite countertops, custom backsplash and SS appliances. Primary suite w/a walk-in closet and an en-suite bath. You’ll also appreciate the finished basement. Complete w/a patio backing to open space.

Katie K. Portenga 303.242.5062

katie.portenga@cbrealty.com | PortengaProperties.com

ARVADA | $560,000

Almost 1,900 SF, this 3br/3ba paired home in West Arvada features high ceilings, an open floor plan, higher-end details & upgrades. "Lock and Go" home – no mowing/snow, low HOA & taxes. Near Colorado Tap House Brewery & Ralston Creek Trail system.

Lynn Hodges 303.913.0166 lynn.hodges@cbrealty.com | lynnhodgesco.com

4br/2ba bi-level home. Living room w/ample natural light that flows seamlessly into the dining area and kitchen. Upstairs w/2 spacious bedrooms including the primary bedroom and a full bath. Complete w/a lower level, fenced backyard and 1-car garage.

Holly Baum 970.290.6183 holly@hollybaum.com | HollyBaum.com

AURORA | $440,000

2br/2.5ba home w/elegant touches throughout. Kitchen w/42-inch cabinets, granite countertops, SS appliances and a large island opens to the family room. Both bedrooms w/their own en-suite baths. Complete w/a fenced backyard and a 2-car garage.

Julie Abels 303.888.3352

Julie.Abels@CBRealty.com | JulieAbelsRealtor.com

FORT

| $490,000

This stunning 2 br/3 ba is nestled beside a park with a breathtaking sunrise view across the open space. Inside, enjoy features like granite countertops, a gas range/oven & a mudroom from the garage. Outside, bring your pets to enjoy the fenced yard.

Lorri Orihuela 720.325.4675 lorri.orihuela@cbrealty.com | ColoradoLuxeHomeGroup.com

AURORA | Price Upon Request

Adorable 2br/2ba 2-story home featuring dark wood LVP flooring, kitchen w/granite counters & whirlpool appliance package, open concept family room w/fireplace, shed & attached 2-car garage. Conveniently located by extensive shopping dining & paths.

Cyndi DeLaney 303.204.3834 cyndi.delaney@cbrealty.com | CyndiDelaney.cbintouch.com

LAKEWOOD | $400,000

3br/2ba townhome w/an open concept. Primary bedroom w/a wall-to-wall closet, a view of the lake and an en-suite bath. Complete w/an outdoor patio area and a carport parking w/2 spaces. Community amenities include a clubhouse and a swimming pool.

Lisa Keener 720.272.8593

lisa.keener@cbrealty.com | LisaKeener.com

COLLINS

FORT COLLINS | $465,000

JOHNSTOWN | $389,000

3br/3ba home. Kitchen w/striking white cabinets and SS appliances. Primary bedroom w/a vaulted ceiling and walk-in closet. Finished basement w/a 3rd bedroom/family area, a 3/4 bath and a laundry area. This unit has a 2-car attached garage.

Cheryl Melichar 303.817.6163 cheryl.melichar@coloradohomes.com | CherylMelichar.cbintouch.com

DACONO | $387,500

Well-maintained 3br/2.5ba townhome featuring LVT floors, open-concept living area and updated kitchen w/ss appliances. Upstairs offers brand-new carpeting & primary bedroom w/updated en suite. Deck surrounded by large trees w/open space views.

Andrew MacArthur 303.246.5858 andrewmac5280@gmail.com

DENVER | $380,000

2br/2.5ba condo boasts a light & bright open floor plan. Featuring a contemporary design, modern finishes, gas fireplace & dream kitchen. Complete w/in-unit w/d & balcony overlooking the pool. Easy access to downtown & DTC. Near Highline Canal.

Janet Ronneng 303.919.3096 janet.ronneng@cbrealty.com | RealEstateToRoots.com

AURORA | $350,000

2br/3ba townhome w/an open layout. Living room w/a wood burning fireplace. Primary suite w/natural light and a walk-in closet. This townhome truly has plenty of living space, modern amenities and a prime location within the Manchester Park community.

Kimberly Brown 303.588.1768 kimberlybrown20@comcast.net

BOULDER

1br/1ba condo in a secure building w/a wood burning fireplace and covered deck overlooking the flatirons. Resort style amenities include heated pool, tennis/pickleball courts, fitness room w/saunas, kitchen equipped clubhouse and underground parking.

Emily Perrotto 561.914.1855

emily.perrotto@gmail.com | SoldbyEmilyPerrotto.com

LAKEWOOD |

Tastefully updated 1br/1ba condo w/an open floor plan and a fireplace. Enjoy new quartz countertops, new soft close cabinets, new SS appliances, luxury vinyl plank flooring and fresh paint throughout. Complete w/a covered patio area reserved parking.

Lisa Keener 720.272.8593

lisa.keener@cbrealty.com | LisaKeener.com

| $320,000

$299,000

DENVER | $1,525,000

4br/4ba home w/an open main floor. Renovated kitchen w/GE Cafe appliances. Primary suite w/dual walk-in closets and a 5-piece bath with city views. Complete w/a basement and a deck.

Scott Beville 303.905.6872

CENTENNIAL | $999,000

Spectacular 5br/4ba bath home situated on a large lot backing to green space & the creek. Near the community pool, clubhouse & Blue Ribbon Willow Creek Elementary! Easy access to C-470.

Brian Mygatt 303.910.1205

guiding you home since 1906

BRIGHTON | $880,000

Modern ranch 4br/4ba home on an acre lot with city conveniences! Featuring beautiful mountain views, gas fireplace, expansive basement w/quartz wet bar & kitchenette & 4-car garage.

Angela Atkinson 303.775.3031

DENVER | Price Upon Request

Beautiful 4br/3ba brick ranch in Hutchinson Hills. Features modern touches, mid-century details & timeless crown molding. Near shops & eateries & close to Bible Park & Highline Canal.

Eric Tack 303.295.2000

Karla Tack 303.956.8586

HIGHLANDS RANCH | $840,000

4br/3ba/2-story home. Well-maintained, 3-car garage, flex space, high-end appliances & kitchen, spacious backyard, loft, main floor bedroom, near recreation center, shopping & dining.

Grayson Taylor 303.815.0937

DENVER | Price Upon Request

2br/2ba home in Sloans Lake. Bedrooms and living room have been freshly painted. Complete w/a detached, 2-car garage. Only 6 blocks from Sloans Lake Park. Create your Dream Home!

Karen Valdez 303.886.4545

AURORA | Price Upon Request

3br/4ba home in Saddle Rock. Kitchen, family room, office, dining room & loft. Primary bedroom w/a double-sided gas fireplace, 5-piece bath & walk-in closet. 3-car garage & backyard.

Jennifer Hebert 303.929.9044

THORNTON | $745,000

4br/4.5ba Signal Creek Stunner w/a spacious family room. Kitchen w/SS appliance. Primary suite w/an updated 5-piece bath. Complete w/a finished basement and a covered patio.

Christy Hepp 303.910.5393

DENVER | $725,000

Updated 5br/3ba home w/a large living room, family room with a gas fireplace and an updated kitchen. Enjoy paid off solar panels and lower level bonus room. Complete w/a fenced backyard.

Cindy Hartley 720.503.9119

FORT COLLINS | $649,900

3br/2ba, 2.61-acre horse property located adjacent to Poudre High School. Seasonal stream runs along the east boundary of this property at the end of Sunset Street. Mountain views.

James Sack 970.217.9705

AURORA | Price Upon Request

4br/3ba home in the Dam East on a nearly 10,000 sqft lot. Great flow from Kitchen to dining and family room. Enjoy a primary suite. Complete w/unfinished basement and outdoor living.

Loy Hall 303.917.4939

ARVADA | $630,000

5br/3ba ranch has been tastefully updated & remodeled throughout. The open floor plan features a gourmet kitchen, built-in fireplace & finished basement. Close to parks trails & more.

Nita Wassenaar 720.560.1319

MEAD | $620,000

4br/3ba home. Kitchen w/SS appliances. Upstairs w/a primary suite, 3 additional bedrooms and laundry room. Complete w/an unfinished basement, 3-car garage and backyard w/mountain views.

Christy Hepp

303.910.5393

LAKEWOOD | $550,000

3br/2ba home. Living space w/a new electric fireplace. Kitchen w/white cabinetry, updated countertops and SS appliances. Complete w/a lower level, a fenced yard and a 2-car garage.

Michelle Wolfe

303.667.2839

AURORA | $499,000

Stunningly updated 2br/3ba home w/2-car garage located near the High Line Canal Trail on a cul-de-sac. Featuring an open floor plan & cozy fireplace. Easy access to highways & shopping.

Anzur & Associates

303.263.6808

COLORADO SPRINGS | $470,000

Bright 4-level 3br/3ba home in Oak Valley Ranch that backs to city open space featuring wood floors. Only .4 miles to Wilson Park & YMCA Wilson Ranch pool & 1 mile to Ute Valley Park.

Jennifer Montoya, MBA 719.232.3397

BOULDER | $599,500

Stunning studio condo in Boulder featuring an open-concept floor plan. Amenities include rooftop pool, hot tubs, fitness center, movie theatre & dog park. Onsite restaurants also!

Jillian Fowler 303.884.2032

Tom Fowler 303.956.2575

BRIGHTON | $565,000

3br/3ba home in Preserve. Living area w/a gas fireplace. Kitchen w/SS appliances. Primary bedroom w/a walk-in closet and 5-piece bath. Complete w/an unfinished basement and 3-car garage.

Dave Todd 303.918.5117

LITTLETON | $545,000

Turn-key 4br/2ba home features an open kitchen w/updated appliances, large walk-out deck w/views & many improvements. Minutes from South West Plaza Mall, Clement Park & Trader Joe’s.

Delain Mott

720.788.7484

DENVER | $480,000

3br/3ba home in the gated Mitchell Place community w/an open floor plan. Primary suite w/an additional area, a 5-piece bath and a walk-in closet. Home backs to open space and trails.

Vicki Wimberly 303.210.8577

BERTHOUD | $529,000

Charming brick ranch-style 5br/3ba home offers over 3,000 SF of living space. Featuring a generous floor plan w/finished basement & oversized 2-car garage. No HOA or metro district fees.

Katie K. Portenga

303.242.5062

ENGLEWOOD | $475,000

Ranch style 5br/2ba home in Englewood features 2,688 total SF, large kitchen, 2 wood-burning fireplaces, covered backyard porch & sprinkler system w/garden areas on large lot (8,799 SF).

Art Recek 720.233.4100

AURORA | $465,000

Lovely ranch-style 4br/1ba home backs to Buckley SFB with wide open views for days! Conveniently located near shopping, restaurants, schools, I-70, I-225, E-470 & Great Plains Park.

Kylie Rupert 303.842.8205

COLORADO SPRINGS | Price Upon Request

Lovely 5br/3ba rancher floorplan in Cheyenne Meadows w/eat-in kitchen, gas fireplace, rec room w/bar, & 2-car garage. Enjoy the great outdoors from the patio overlooking the backyard.

CC Signature Group 719.550.2547

DENVER | $450,000

Welcome to this hidden gem in Capital Hill! The two bedroom, two bath home offers 1,213 square feet. Enjoy mountain and city views and dual balcony’s which total 52’ of relaxing space.

Alice Downie 303.520.0277

COLORADO SPRINGS | $410,000

2br/1ba Golf Club Acres home. Living room w/wood-burning fireplace. Kitchen w/newer appliances and ample cabinet space. Complete w/a covered patio, yard w/a Koi Pond and detached garage.

Anna Fish 719.650.9300

GREELEY | Price Upon Request

Lovely 4br/3ba home in West Greeley w/2-car garage situated on a spacious lot featuring a bright living room, well-appointed kitchen w/LVP flooring & finished basement w/LVP flooring.

Jessica Gallegos 720.771.4122

STRASBURG | $405,000

Charming 4br/2ba house w/brand new 3-car detached garage in Wolf Creek Run. Featuring newer appliances, renovated bathrooms & recently replaced flooring. Easy access to I-70 & DIA.

Kristina Tokarski 415.847.6111

LITTLETON | $399,000

Rare 2br/2ba condo opportunity w/garage parking. Unit w/a side-by-side washer/dryer. Complete w/an onsite fitness facility. Fantastic location for commuting, leisure and recreation.

Derrek Patrick 720.987.5271

LITTLETON | $385,000

Updated 2br/2ba home in the highly desirable Dakota Station w/a complete remodel from top to bottom. Prime location with easy access to C470, Chatfield State Park, shopping and dining. New Key Team -Angie, Aleigha & Dawn 303.598.1551

KEENESBURG | Price Upon Request

Meticulously maintained, 2br/1ba ranch home with huge potential in the 945 SF unfinished basement. Many recent improvements have been done including new tile and new kitchen cabinets.

Batya Cruz 303.808.4970

LOVELAND | $364,900

2br/3ba home in Rocky Mountain Village. Family room w/a fireplace. There are 2 primary suites w/own private baths. Complete w/an unfinished basement, 2-car garage and fenced courtyard.

Christina Kern 303.915.0809

COLORADO SPRINGS | Price Upon Request

Charming 3br/1ba updated rancher on generous lot offers a fully remodeled kitchen w/stainless steel appliances & level yard w/chicken coop. Enjoy a 1-car garage w/workshop and carport.

CC Signature Group 719.550.2547

DENVER | $213,000

Completely remodeled 1br/1ba condo. Beautiful kitchen w/new stainless appliances and quartz countertops! Enclosed balcony and underground parking. Windsor Gardens - Age 55+ community.

Kelly Redpath 303.548.4058

COLORADO SPRINGS | Price Upon Request

Incredible 2br/2ba condo w/premium underground parking space at Satellite Tower & views of Cheyenne Mountain. Enjoy a galley-style kitchen & expansive balcony overlooking the pool.

CC Signature Group 719.550.2547

HARTSEL | Price Upon Request

Stunning 5-acre mountain property in peaceful South Park Ranches community w/gently sloping land, driveway & views creating the perfect location for building your dream home.

CC Signature Group 719.550.2547

FREE WHEELIN’

This year marks the fifth anniversary of shared electric scooters arriving in the Mile High City. In an effort to control the two-wheeled tornadoes, Denver temporarily banned the vehicles in June 2018 until city leaders could set regulations to govern their use—rules locals have been ignoring ever since. —NICHOLAS

HUNT

OFFICIAL RULE

Scooters should not be ridden on sidewalks unless “actively parking, starting, or ending a trip.”

STREET RULE

Curb ramps make for sick jumps. Plus, weaving from the sidewalk to the road and back again shaves at least 35 seconds off a trip to Coors Field.

OFFICIAL RULE

Don’t block the sidewalk.

STREET RULE

Don’t block the sidewalk…unless it’s brunchtime. While the Sunday Funday gang is inside downing bottomless mimosas, pedestrians outside must navigate the tangle of handlebars left in front of the restaurant.

OFFICIAL RULE

Vehicles should be parked upright at all times.

STREET RULE LOL

OFFICIAL RULE*

One rider per scooter.

STREET RULE

Potential romantic partners are exempt. Nothing is as passion-inducing as wrapping your arms around the cutie you just met at a patio bar in RiNo and zipping to their Capitol Hill apartment. (Their roommate also catching a ride to said apartment may kill said passion.)

*per Lime and Lyft

OFFICIAL RULE

Obey all traffic laws.

STREET RULE

If Lycra-clad cyclists can run stoplights, so can scooter cruisers.

BY JOHN DEVOLLE