5280 Magazine February 2024

26 PODCASTS COLORADANS SHOULD BE LISTENING TO RIGHT NOW PAGE 46

INSIDE THE WILD WORLD OF AMATEUR MOUNTAIN TOWN HOCKEY

BY NICHOLAS HUNT

RESTAURANT REVIEW: BIB GOURMAND WINNER THE GINGER PIG PAGE 26

THE DENVER MAGAZINE

Best Bars DENVER’S

LoDo’s Three Saints Revival FEBRUARY 2024 | 5280.com

BREATHING

TAKES

HEART Healthy breathing takes more than just your lungs.

That’s why the nation’s leading respiratory hospital is also a leader in cardiovascular disorders.

Our cardiologists, pulmonologists and medical teams collaborate to help hearts and lungs work together, so you can feel your best.

Our commitment to research, early diagnosis and heart health, combined with innovative treatments and clinical trials, helps thousands of kids and adults who struggle to breathe get back to breathing easy.

Healthy lungs, healthy heart, working together for a healthier you.

To learn more or make an appointment, call 800.621.0505 or visit njhealth.org.

Nation’s Leading Respiratory Hospital

TM

Contents F E B R UA RY 2 0 2 4

36

The Occasional Drink

Whether you’re seeking liquid fuel for a weekend pub crawl or a clever cocktail, there’s a Denver bar for every purpose.

EDITED BY PATRICIA KAOWTHUMRONG

46

54

62

These 26 podcasts, all of which are either produced

by Coloradans or focus on issues in the Mountain West, are required listening.

Inside the raucous, fiery, and little-known world of mountain town amateur hockey.

EDITED BY LINDSE Y B. KING

With the help of local designer Caitlin Pappas, two Denver-based plastic surgeons created a peaceful Aspen Valley retreat to share with their trauma patients.

& GEOFF VAN DYKE

BY MICHELLE JOHNSON

In Pods We Trust

Healing Power

Line Change

BY NICHOLAS HUNT

Sarah Banks

A perfectly balanced—and perfectly lovely— Sazerac at Hello Darling

2

5280 / F E B R UA R Y 2024

DUCHESSA

Contents F E B R UA RY 2 0 2 4

26

16

22

20

F R O M T H E E D I TO R

brings up childhood memories of basement hockey games.

CO M PA S S 15 CULTURE

Inside a former Lincoln Park factory turned swanky social club.

16 GOVERNMENT

For the first time in history, the Denver mayor’s senior leadership team is staffed entirely by women.

42 E AT & D R I N K 25 WHAT’S HOT

A new wellness trend is linked to a slew of benefits—if you’re willing to chill out.

Sonny’s Mediterranean, a fast-casual spot in Highland, delivers refined Greek and Levantine flavors.

20 GEAR

26 REVIEW

18 HEALTH

Colorado-made accessories that will keep your pups active through the winter.

22 WELLNESS

David Yi’s cosmetics brand seeks to make beauty accessible to everyone.

The Bib Gourmand Award–winning Ginger Pig delivers creative Asian street food that’s meant to be shared. Plus: Three more new Asian eateries you should try.

CO LU M N

AC T L I K E A LO C A L

30 REAL ESTATE

84 THE OVERSIMPLIFIED GUIDE TO: COOKING GREEN CHILE

A $24 million donation could allow Steamboat Springs to create a massive and muchneeded affordable housing development—if residents approve the plan.

A one-pot recipe for a batch of Colorado’s signature spicy dish.

BY KELLY BASTONE

O N T H E C OV E R Photograph by Sarah Banks Three Saints Revival bar manager Jesse Valdez

68 DINING GUIDE

5280 (ISSN 10826815) is published monthly by 5280 Publishing, Inc., 1675 Larimer St., Suite 675, Denver, CO 80202. Subscriptions are $19.95 for one year (12 issues). Back issues are available for $6.99 plus tax and shipping by visiting shop.5280.com. Periodical postage paid at Denver, CO, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS (see DMM 707.4.12.5). NONPOSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to 5280 Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 3000, Denville, NJ 07834. Canadian Post Publications Mail Agreement No. #40065056 Canadian Return Address: DP Global Mail, 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. 5280® is a federally registered trademark owned by 5280 Publishing, Inc. 5280 also owns trademark registrations for TOP OF THE TOWN, DENVER’S TOP DOCTORS, DENVER MAGAZINE, and COUTURE COLORADO. © 2024 5280 Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.

Clockwise from top left: Sarah Banks (2); Sky Schuyler/Soona; Bukunmi Grace/Courtesy of Good Light Cosmetics

12 One of this month’s features

ROAM. Into Butch Cassidy’s Hideout

Into Butch Cassidy’s Hideout

... And Crazy Woman Canyon

Wyoming

www.VisitBuffaloWY.com

EDITOR

Lindsey B. King ART DIRECTOR

David McKenna DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Maren Horjus

ED I TO RI A L DEPUT Y EDITOR

Jessica LaRusso

3027 South Cook Street

SENIOR STAFF WRITER

Robert Sanchez

Wellshire • Denver

FEATURES EDITOR

Spencer Campbell

5 Bed | 5 Bath | 5,173 SF | $1,775,000 Custom 2-story in highly sought-after Slavens School District. Poised on a beautifully landscaped 8840 SF lot, this home features custom millwork, handtroweled walls, crown molding, natural stone surfaces, hardwood floors, and a fabulous backyard oasis with an expansive patio, hot tub and fire pit.

3027SouthCook.com Compass is a licensed real estate broker and abides by equal housing opportunity laws.

HOME EDITOR

Michelle Johnson SENIOR EDITOR

Nicholas Hunt

Chrissy Graham Broker Associate, CNE, GRI 303.947.2043 Chrissy@ChrissyGraham.com ChrissyGraham.com

FO OD EDITOR

Patricia Kaowthumrong

SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Jessica Giles

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Chris Walker

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Barbara O’Neil

ASSISTANT FOOD EDITOR

Ethan Pan

RESEARCH EDITOR

Visvajit Sriramrajan COPY EDITORS

Shannon Carroll, Dougald MacDonald CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kelly Bastone, Laura Beausire, Christine DeOrio, Amanda M. Faison, Clay Fong, Courtney Holden, Sarah Kuta, Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan, Jenny McCoy, Allyson Reedy, Meredith Sell, Daliah Singer, Martin J. Smith, Andy Stein EDITORIAL INTERN

Julia Ruble

D ESI GN & P HOTO G R A PH Y

Feel Good // Look Good

PHOTO EDITOR

Charli Ornett

DEPUT Y ART DIRECTOR

Sean Parsons

DEPUT Y PHOTO EDITOR

Specializing in custom color, modern haircutting, and hair extensions in the heart of RiNo.

Sarah Banks

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Melinda Beck, Stephen Cardinale, Kimberly Gavin, Lars Leetaru, Simone Massoni, Arthur Mount, Sky Schuyler/Soona, Natalie Warady, David Williams 52 80 P UBL I S HI NG , IN C.

3501 Blake Street, Suite 109 Denver, CO 80205 720.877.8482 theblakedenver.com  @theblakedenver 6

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

CEO & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Daniel Brogan EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Geoff Van Dyke 1675 Larimer St., Suite 675, Denver, CO 80202 Tel 303-832-5280 | Fax 303-832-0470 | 5280.com For subscription questions, please call 1-866-271-5280.

YOUR TRUSTED LUXURY R E A L E STAT E E X P E RT A DVERTI SI NG & MA R K ET IN G CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER

Camille Hammond ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Ari Ben MARKETING DIRECTOR

Piniel Simegn SENIOR ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES

Angie Lund, Molly Swanson ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES

Craig Hitchcock, Heather Lowe, Kara Noone

ann kerr

ADVERTISING & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Tamara Curry MARKETING COORDINATOR

Grace Thomas

303.818.8668 akerr@kentwood.com annkerr.com

BR A ND S ERVI C E S CHIEF BRAND OFFICER

Carly Lambert All information deemed reliable but not guaranteed and should be independently verified. All properties are subject to prior sale, change or withdrawal.

Neither listing broker(s) nor Kentwood Real Estate shall be responsible for any typographical errors, misinformation, misprints and shall be held totally harmless.

PRINT OPERATIONS DIRECTOR

Megan Skolak CREATIVE SERVICES MANAGER

Chelsea Conrad DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER

Shundra Jackson SENIOR GRAPHIC & UI DESIGNER

Caitlin Brooks AUDIENCE GROWTH COORDINATOR

Greta Kotova PRODUCTION COORDINATOR

Alyssa Chutka NEWSSTAND CONSULTANT

Alan Centofante CIRCUL ATION CONSULTANTS

Meg Clark, Greg Wolfe A D MI NI STR ATI O N HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR

Derek Noyes OFFICE MANAGER

Todd A. Black BILLING & COLLECTIONS MANAGER

Jessica McHeard

A member of the American Society of Magazine Editors

8

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

A member of the City and Regional Magazine Association

PIVOT NO. 1 Several Submaterial designs use reflective geometry of abstract shapes to express graphic linework. The soft curves of a ginkgo leaf inspired the Pivot No. 1 Mirror. Rendered with a powder-coated aluminum lattice that reveals the reflective surface below, the rotated orientations of the quarter circles invite the eye to wander across the field of shapes without demanding a particular focus.

The mirror is surrounded by a solid wood frame, seemingly restraining the shapes from repeating forever.

This Pivot No. 1 is one of four designs in the Pivot series. Submaterial can customize any design in size, shape, and color.

+1 505 891 8356 SALES@SUBMATERIAL.COM SUBMATERIAL.COM | NEW MEXICO, USA

SUB S CRI PTI O N S

A one-year subscription to 5280 costs $19.95 for 12 issues. A two-year subscription costs $34.95. Special corporate and group rates are available; call 303-832-5280 for details. To start a new subscription, to renew an existing subscription, or to change your address, visit 5280.com/subscribe; call 1-866-2715280 from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. EST Monday through Friday; or send an email to circulation@5280.com.

L ETTERS TO THE E DITO R & D I NI NG GUID E

A GHOSTLY LEGEND COMES TO SHORE WAGNER | FEB. 24, 27 | MAR. 1, 3

Letters to the editor must include your name, address, and a daytime phone number (all of which can be withheld from publication upon request). Letters may be submitted via regular mail or email (letters@5280.com).

To have a restaurant considered for our Dining Guide, contact us by phone or email (dining@5280.com) to receive a submission form. We also encourage you to contact us if your experience at a restaurant differs significantly from our listing. Information for this section should be sub­mitted at least six weeks before the issue’s cover date.

W RI TER’S GUI D E LIN E S

Writer’s guidelines can be found online at 5280.com/writers-guidelines. To suggest a story idea, email us at news@5280.com.

A DVERTI S I N G

TICKETS | $39

OPERACOLORADO.ORG | 303.468.2030 The Flying Dutchman is sponsored by The Crawley Family Foundation.

5280 offers businesses the most costeffective way to reach Denver’s upscale consumers. Information about advertising is available on the web at 5280.com/ advertising. Call 303-832-5280 to request a printed media kit.

SP O NS O RS HIPS

5280 actively supports organizations that make our city a better place to live and work. Submit sponsorship proposals to Piniel Simegn, marketing director, at sponsorship@5280.com.

Join the thousands of Coloradans who start each day with The Local—5280's free, daily newsletter. Every day you'll receive our editors' picks of the top stories in milehigh food, culture, travel, and more!

SCAN HERE TO SUBSCRIBE or VISIT 5280.COM/THELOCAL

10

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

5280 Publishing, Inc. adheres to high standards to ensure forestry is practiced in an environmentally responsible, socially beneficial, and economically viable manner. Printed in Denver, Colorado, by Publication Printers Corp. Our printer is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC).

FROM THE EDITOR

Power Plays

As a high schooler, my dad played hockey in New York City. He was pretty good, I think; at least, that’s what I gathered from the trophy I found in an old box when I was a kid.

Not that it mattered. What did matter was that he brought hockey into my and my younger brother’s childhoods, although probably not in the way you might think.

There wasn’t an NHL team in my home state of West Virginia, so we didn’t go to games all that often.

Instead, my dad set up a makeshift rink in our basement by placing nets on either side of the roughly 25-footlong tiled floor. My brother and I had plastic sticks while Dad had an old wooden one. We spent hours down there slapping around a plastic puck we’d wrapped in duct tape when it had cracked—and laughing at my dad as he goofed around while simultaneously showing us why he still loved hockey 20 years after hanging up his skates.

I was reminded of those long-ago days while reading this month’s “Line Change” (page 62), senior editor Nicholas Hunt’s pull-back-the-curtain look at the top-level amateur hockey teams that inhabit so many towns across the West. If you haven’t heard of the Vail Yeti or the Breckenridge Vipers or the Jackson Hole Moose or the Park City Pioneers, you’re not alone. But you are missing out on some Mystery, Alaska–style stories, particularly one that’s been

^

Richard Batenburg III takes the ice at Denver’s Big Bear Ice Arena.

brewing here in Colorado with a 33-year-old named Richard Batenburg III. “After having played in Canada and then in college, Rick just couldn’t let go of the sport,” Hunt says. “So, after trying to get a normal job and do the adult thing for a while, he ultimately returned to hockey as the founder of a nonprofit amateur team in Breckenridge. Now Rick wants to grow the business of these so-called Senior A teams in the West—but not everyone is on board with it.”

Hunt’s piece could be described as a profile of Batenburg, a somewhat controversial man who simply loves being on the ice. But maybe more than that, it’s the kind of slice-of-life, smalltown Colorado story that, just for a few moments, takes you out of your world and puts you into someone else’s.

LINDSEY B. KING

Editor lindsey@5280.com

For this issue’s roundup of the best bars in the metro area, deputy photo editor Sarah Banks was tasked with not just photographing the entire feature (“The Occasional Drink,” page 36), but also taking the photo that would grace the cover. To choose the spots that would be featured, Banks first perused the list in search of picturesque spaces that also had eye-catching cocktails. Then she spent hours sifting through inspiration images and combing sites like Yelp to get a sense of what angles she could expect once on location. During the shoots, Banks and her colleagues made further alterations to the scenes—dozens of tiny adjustments, like moving a glass just one inch to the right. A few different locales were initially in the running for the coveted cover spot, but Three Saints Revival, a buzzy tapas and wine bar behind Union Station, quickly became the 5280 art team’s favorite. Despite the high stakes of capturing the perfect cover image, Banks has photographed enough of them in her nine years at 5280 that she no longer feels nervous. “That feeling has morphed into adrenaline-fueled anticipation,” she says.

“By the time the shoot date finally rolls around, I’m ready to go! The shoot is the fun part.” There was one thing, however, that was different about this go-around, Banks says: “This is my first cover where I both photographed it and appear in it.”

SARAH BANKS

12

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

From top: David Williams; Arthur Mount

Deputy Photo Editor

CELEBRATE THE COLORADO SYMPHONY’S CENTENNIAL WITH THESE CONCERTS AND MORE ALL SEASON LONG!

Beethoven Symphony No. 9 with Marin Alsop

FEB 23-25

The Wizard of Oz in Concert

MAR 2-3

Stravinsky’s The Firebird with Christopher Dragon

Mozart Requiem with Peter Oundjian

MAR 8-10

MAR 22-24

COLORADOSYMPHONY.ORG | 303.623.7876 VIEW ALL EVENTS USING THE QR CODE

FILM FOOD MUSIC PARTIES MORE PASSES, TICKETS, SCHEDULE + INFO AT

BIFF1.COM

YEAR

OF NEW FEB29-MAR3 2024 years 20 YE CELEBRATING

20 Y

Thanks to all the sponsors, donors, volunteers, filmmakers and attendees who have helped sustain and grow the festival over the past two decades.

C U LT U R E

Hidden Agenda

Founded in 2015, Invisible City treated Denver partygoers to a bacchanal of masquerade balls and disco brunches—until COVID-19 put an end to the revelry. After a two-year hiatus, the upscale events business relaunched in September, and while it still throws one-off fetes, founder Paul Laurie has added Clubhouse to Invisible City’s portfolio to ensure its members will always have a spot to gather. Located in a former Lincoln Park factory space decorated with eclectic items Laurie discovered during his world travels, the expansive private hideout includes a lounge, a patio, a wellness room, and co-working hours. Members also receive a “key to the city,” which unlocks perks around Denver such as free drinks at partner locations and backstage passes to local concerts. The timing was perfect: Social clubs such as London-based Soho House and New York–based NeueHouse have exploded in popularity since the pandemic created a greater need for interpersonal connection. But where memberships at Cherry Creek’s Clayton Members Club, for example, cost $3,000 a year, Invisible City members pay just $99 a month—a paltry price to see behind the curtain. —BARBARA O’NEIL PHOTOGRAPH BY STEPHEN CARDINALE

F E B R UA R Y 2024 / 5280

15

G OV E R N M E N T

Queen City

For the first time, the Denver mayor’s senior leadership team is staffed entirely by women.

Here’s why that matters.

Janel Forde had never visited the Mile High City before, but after Mike Johnston won the mayoral election in June, she accepted an offer to become his chief operating officer and moved to Denver from Chicago sight unseen.

One draw was the chance to help the city tackle homelessness and youth gun violence—two issues she cares deeply about. But the clincher was discovering she’d be joining an all-female senior leadership staff, something she had never seen despite working in city administration for more than a decade.

Denver had never seen it either, until Johnston’s administration. In addition to Forde, Jenn Ridder, one of the mayor’s former campaign strategists, became his chief of staff, and Nicole Doheny left international accounting

“It is disappointing we haven’t broken that glass ceiling.” firm Ernst & Young to become Denver’s chief financial officer. Kerry Tipper, the first Latina to serve as city attorney, stayed on from former Mayor Michael Hancock’s administration.

Seven months into Johnston’s tenure, Forde has already spotted plenty of benefits: “I find less ego shows up when women are in leadership roles, which allows us to get to the actual work,” she says.

Still, the fact that Denver has never elected a female mayor isn’t lost on Ridder. While she believes Johnston, who beat Kelly Brough in a runoff election, was the best candidate, “It is disappointing we haven’t broken that glass ceiling,” she says. “[That] is why it’s so important that we as women leaders, and the mayor himself, work to build a pipeline of talented female 16

5280 / F E B R UA R Y 2024

leaders who can and will transform Denver.” Fostering potential is one reason Johnston prioritized hiring the most qualified and diverse candidates for his staff, Ridder says, and all four women plan to mentor promising leaders, one of whom could become Denver’s first female mayor. “When people see women, people of color, and folks who don’t traditionally have opportunities to serve in leadership roles be in said roles,” Forde says, “it changes the trajectory of folks who think, Oh, I can do that.”

From left: Kerry Tipper, Janel Forde, Nicole Doheny, and Jenn Ridder

For a literal illustration of just how far Denver’s city government has already come, you only need to visit Tipper’s office. While going through boxes of yellowed files she’d inherited from her predecessor, she found an organizational chart for the department from 1979. “There’s probably 50 people, and there’s not one woman who’s an attorney on the whole chart,” Tipper says. Instead of tossing it, she hung it in her office. “I leave it as this extraordinary reminder of all that’s changed.”

—CHRIS WALKER

PHOTOGRAPH BY SARAH BANKS

al ! n i f h nt o m

THROUGH March 3, 2024

All Stars: American Artists from The Phillips Collection is organized by The Phillips Collection in collaboration with the Denver Art Museum. Support is provided by the Tom Taplin Jr. and Ted Taplin Endowment, the Birnbaum Social Discourse Project, Drs. Ellen and Morris Susman, Lisë Gander and Andy Main, Mike Leprino Family Foundation, the Kristin and Charles Lohmiller Exhibitions Fund, the donors to the Annual Fund Leadership Campaign, and the residents who support the Scientific and Cultural Facilities District (SCFD). Promotional support is provided by 5280 Magazine and CBS Colorado.

Walt Kuhn, Plumes (detail), 1931. Oil on canvas; 40 in. x 30 in. The Phillips Collection: Acquired 1932

H E A LT H

Cold Comforts

A new wellness trend is linked to a slew of benefits—if you’re willing to chill out.

The first thing to know about cold plunging—the act of dunking yourself in frigid water for an extended period of time—is that it may induce total bliss, pure agony, or both. “It’s completely subjective,” says Justin Weiss, founder of Colorado cold plunge group Ice Church. What’s more definitive is that the practice is heating up thanks to its purported health benefits, including remedying chronic pain, inflammation, and post-workout soreness. (There are dangers, too, such as hypothermia and cold shock, so start slowly, don’t dunk alone, and make sure you have dry clothes and a place to warm up quickly.) Weiss battled fibromyalgia for years until he discovered cold immersion in 2015. “In a few days, my pain was melting away,” he says. But finding the right place to take a plunge can be, well, mind-numbing, so we’ve rounded up four of our favorites for breaking the ice. —JENNY MCCOY

If You Like To Jet Set

IRON MOUNTAIN HOT SPRINGS

There are 32 mineral and freshwater pools at this Glenwood Springs hot spot, but only one is chilled. The frosty, 55-degree tank fits four and features reflexology stones at the bottom so you can massage your tootsies as they freeze out. After your plunge, warm up with a trip around the globe—the resort has 12 tubs with mineral water formulas that mimic famous international hot springs, including Iceland’s Blue Lagoon and a Japanese onsen. From $40 for three hours

If You’re A Serious Athlete DENVER SPORTS RECOVERY

This LoHi fitness rehab center has a slew of post-workout resources, including three cold plunge pools ranging from 40 to 52 degrees, which it claims can help diminish inflammation and assist muscle recovery. Expect an intense experience: Each pool is equipped with jets that prevent your tiny body hairs from trapping air bubbles against your skin and warming them. $29 for a 24-hour pass

If You Crave Companionship ICE CHURCH

Founded by Weiss in 2019, Ice Church hosts casual outdoor gatherings every Sunday in Crestone and, occasionally, in Boulder and Denver. Although water temps are on the cooler side (about 29 to 39 degrees) and each dip takes place in a horse trough, Weiss says the events are far from hardcore. Instead, there’s a focus on community, and Weiss will coach you through the experience, starting with preplunge breathing exercises. Some weeks, he says, “we’re eating sushi and sausage and oysters in the bath.” $15 to $60; times and locations vary

If Your Vibe Is DIY CLEAR CREEK

You’ll find Denver-based Ironman athlete and cold-water immersion enthusiast Eric Hinman’s favorite spot for an outdoor dunk next to Golden’s public library in Clear Creek. Access is easy (park at the library), and the deep, natural swimming hole is big enough for group outings. Hinman visits year-round but cautions to be on the lookout for ice patches that could trap you under the water during winter. Free 18

5280 / F E B R UA R Y 2024

I L LU S T R AT I O N B Y L A R S L E E TA R U

GEAR

The Dog Days Of Winter

Don’t put your pups’ adventuring on ice because of a few snowflakes. These Colorado-made accessories will keep them active until the clocks change.

—KELSEY LINDSEY

Mountainsmith K9 Dog Pack Golden-based Mountainsmith worked with a local veterinarian to design the K9 Dog Pack’s ergonomic shape to eliminate uncomfortable rubbing. Bonus: The water-resistant pouches will prevent snow-soaked treats. $75 Outward Hound SnuggleSoft Faux Fur Pet Blanket The SnuggleSoft from Centennial-based Outward Hound imitates a mother’s fur, helping your doggo warm up after a day of romping in the snow while also protecting your back seats from mud and more on the drive home from the trailhead. $25

20

5280 / F E B R UA R Y 2024

Atlas Pet Company Lifetime Lite Leash When icy trails make hiking poles a must, use this leash’s adjustable, rust-free buckle to strap Fido to your waist. And don’t fret if your puppy thinks the tether is a new chew toy: Golden-based Atlas offers free lifetime repairs. $75

Dog Mocs Like most booties, Dog Mocs will protect your pups’ paws from ice and snow. Unlike other brands, though, these stylish deerskin leather constructions are supple enough to allow your dog to sense the subtleties of the trail under their feet. $34 per pair

Boulderbarks Alpine Extreme Weather Puffy Coat The fiber insulation and fleece lining of this waterproof outerwear from Boulderbarks will keep your pooch toasty, and its adjustable belt secures it firmly in place when your dog is chasing chipmunks off trail. $45 to $55

PHOTOGRAPH BY SKY SCHUYLER/SOONA

COLORADO APPRECIATION OFFER

CLOSE TO HOME,

A WORLD AWAY.

Make our home your getaway. As a token of our appreciation, The Broadmoor is extending exclusive nightly rates to our Colorado neighbors for select dates in January and February 2024. Enjoy weekday rates as low as $229 in January, and $269 in February.

With weekend rates starting at $299.

Offer includes: • Complimentary golf greens fees (cart rental not included) thru April 3, 2024 • Complimentary outdoor tennis and pickleball court time thru April 3, 2024 • Suites available at 25% off of published rates Savor delightful meals in our award-winning restaurants including three-course prix fixe dinners January 1st through February 29th* at The Broadmoor’s Ristorante del Lago, Golden Bee and La Taverne.

Italian-centric Del Lago’s is $59 per person, gastropub Golden Bee is $49 per person, while the steakhouse Taverne’s is $69 per person.

Visit broadmoor.com for more information.

Rates and special discounts are based on space availability and are weather permitting for select dates January - February 2024. Not applicable to groups. Rates do not include applicable taxes and fees. Valid for new bookings only. Prix fixe menus are available January 1 - February 29, 2024, excluding February 10-17, 2024. Pricing not inclusive of tax and tip.

844.875.9882

BROADMOOR.COM

Award-Winning Cocktails and Spirits with 100% House-Crafted Ingredients 2023 Good Food Awards Winner Gold Level Sustainable Business Best of Boulder County Winner Best of the West Winner

Cocktail Lounge Open Wed – Sat 519 Main Street Longmont, CO 80501 720-600-4945 • drylanddistillers.com

WELLNESS

pandemic and has since published a book with HarperCollins; launched the Good Light Cosmetics brand; and created a tie-in skincare set for Heartstopper, a Netflix series about a romance between two gay teens. Designed for a gender-inclusive audience, Good Light is now carried by Ulta Beauty, a cosmetics chain with more than 1,300 locations in the United States. “Sometimes,” Yi says, “you have to be what you don’t see.”

—SPENCER CAMPBELL

GOOD LIGHT 3 COSMETICS PRODUCTS TO SPARK A GLOW UP 1. It’s not enough to heal blemishes; a great acne remover needs to get them gone yesterday. Fortunately for prom-goers everywhere, Luna Pimple Patches were deemed the fastest-acting pimple patch on the market by Allure in 2023. $8.50 for 24

Neutral Tones

David Yi’s cosmetics brand seeks to make beauty accessible to everyone.

The skincare industry is not subtle.

Stroll down the beauty aisle and you’ll see soft pinks, vibrant purples, and golden sparkles (read: women) on one side and military greens, matte blacks, and unassuming grays (men) on the other. “I always felt like that was so jarring,” says David Yi. “As a consumer, I shave, but I also sometimes like to put on makeup. Why do I feel like I’m not being catered to in any section?” So Yi, a fashion writer who lives in his hometown of Colorado Springs, decided to launch a beauty brand that was genderinclusive and centered on nonbinary and trans communities.

That mission is rooted in Yi’s adolescence, when, as one of the few Asian students at his high school, he often ate lunch alone in his Jeep Cherokee, 22

5280 / F E B R UA R Y 2024

dreaming of a world that would invite him to participate: “As an Asian American, I never saw myself on TV, in the magazines, and not in beauty, for sure.”

But he eventually made it to the cool table, becoming, at 22, the youngest fashion editor ever at the New York Daily News, suddenly sitting next to Vogue editor Anna Wintour at runway shows.

Then, in 2015, he wrote a viral piece about transgender teens for Mashable.

Talking with the story’s subjects convinced Yi there was a need for more diverse stories in fashion, and in 2016, he founded Very Good Light. One of the blog’s first posts was “The Fear Politics and Beauty of Men Who Wear Turbans.” While most of his staff is located in New York City, Yi moved back to Colorado Springs during the

3. Along with standard ingredients like collagen (for plumpness) and vitamin B5 (to ward off dryness), the Taste of Space Lip Milk replicates the flavor of the center of the galaxy, which astronomers believe tastes like raspberries. $16 for .15 ounces

From top: Good Light Cosmetics founder David Yi; Good Light’s Taste of Space Lip Milk

From left: Bukunmi Grace/Courtesy of Good Light Cosmetics; Courtesy of Good Light Cosmetics

2. Vegan- and cruelty-free, like all Good Light products, Moon Glow Milky Toning Lotion was lauded by the testers at Self magazine for its ability to keep skin moisturized through the winter thanks to hydrating ingredients such as ceramides and snow mushroom, which is known for its ability to retain water. $22 for 3.4 ounces

Far from ordinary.

There are vacations and there are escapes. where a long weekend is nothing short of eternal.

VisitSantaFe.com

I N D U L G E Y O U R TA S T E B U D S !

Date + Time Location Featuring

MARCH 23

10AM - 1PM

HOSTED AT 1075 Park Avenue W. Denver, CO 80205

SCRUMPTIOUS BRUNCH MENUS from Denver-area restaurants dedicated MIMOSA BAR build-your-own BLOODY MARY STATION luxurious LOUNGES playful PHOTO BOOTH groovy DJ SET

Scan for Tickets

Tickets will be available for sale on FEBRUARY 18 at 5280scene.com.

Get a SPECIAL GROUP DISCOUNT when you select "BRUNCH CREW" tickets!

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS

RE STAU RANT B EN EFAC TO R :

Eat & Drink W H AT ’ S H O T

Awesome Sauce

Any Mediterranean restaurant worth its falafel should be able to roll out a selection of traditional sauces and spreads, like hummus, tzatziki, and baba ghanoush. But eight-month-old Sonny’s Mediterranean, an 18-seat, counter-service-only restaurant in Highland, takes its condiment game further than its fast-casual competitors. Chef David Schloss, who worked at RiNo’s Safta for nearly two years before opening Sonny’s, draws on his experience at that upscale eatery to deliver refined Greek and Levantine flavors—but without the fuss. Case in point: Schloss ditches Safta’s multihour hummus-making method for one that takes roughly 15 minutes but entails processing the chickpeas longer at a cooler temperature, resulting in an extra creamy dip. It’s a smooth lead-up to your entrée: a pita sandwich. Not only does Schloss nail the house-roasted chicken or herbflecked falafel stuffed inside, but the wrap is also the perfect vessel for sampling his sauces. Schloss delivers tasty classics, such as sesame tahini sauce and garlicky toum, but he also proffers less common options: zhoug, a Yemeni sauce of serranos, cilantro, parsley, orange zest, and spices; a harissa made with three kinds of dried chiles; and a basil chimichurri that ventures away from traditional Mediterranean flavors. Order a few, then play around to find your winning condiment combo. —ETHAN PAN

PHOTOGRAPH BY SARAH BANKS

F E B R UA R Y 2024 / 5280

25

REVIEW

Family Style

The Bib Gourmand Award–winning Ginger Pig delivers creative Asian street food that’s meant to be shared. —AMANDA M. FAISON hen the news hit in late August that the Ginger Pig, Natascha Hess’ threeyear-old Asian street food restaurant in Berkeley, had garnered a Bib Gourmand nod from the Michelin Guide, Hess was stunned. She never would have guessed that her little startup of a food-truck-turned-restaurant would receive such an honor.

That the Michelin Guide staff thought her food provided an exceptionally high value at a low cost wasn’t shocking; it was more that Hess’ culinary adventures had garnered any

W

^

From left: The many flavors of the Ginger Pig; chef and owner Natascha Hess

26

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

attention at all. Cooking is, after all, Hess’ third career. She worked in sports broadcasting and then practiced law, but food was an early love—and her palate began to develop when she was just a child.

Hess was 12 when she first traveled to Japan. At the time, she was simply excited to see her brother, who lived in Tokyo, but she became captivated by Japanese cuisine. Later, while majoring in Chinese language in college, Hess returned to Asia, living for three summers with a Chinese family in Beijing. It was Nalu

Zhang, the family matriarch, who not only taught Hess how to cook, but also how to eat. “The family used to cook together every night and eat together,” Hess says. “The whole idea of sharing and eating family-style, it really connects you, and it changed the way I like to eat.”

Hess’ love of those family dinners informs both the Ginger Pig’s format and its communal atmosphere.

A neon sign that translates to the informal Chinese greeting “chi le ma” or “Have you eaten?” sits over the register and both welcomes you and underscores the intention of the space: to gather and enjoy the pleasure of good food. Give your name to the host, then head to the bar for an Okinawa PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH BANKS

ROEHL

Prairie Secrets, 20x20” Oil, © Karen Roehl

Exploring Landscapes www.karenroehl.com

REVIEW

28

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

WEST MEETS FAR EAST Three new Asian spots you should try now. —AMF BRYAN’S DUMPLING HOUSE

Bryan’s Dumpling House specializes in noodle dishes and Chinese dumplings. Order the xiao long bao sampler: a steamer basket with eight differently flavored soup dumplings stuffed with everything from mushrooms to kimchi. Kids will love the window into the kitchen, where they can watch the perfect little parcels being folded. 8000 E. Belleview Ave., Suite B45, Greenwood Village THUY BY PKR, YUAN WONTON, AND SWEETS & SOURDOUGH

This combined concept is reinventing what defines a restaurant—and two of the eateries are serving up tasty Asian treats. Thuy by PKR slings its Vietnamese pho Fridays and Saturdays from 5 to 9 p.m., while Yuan Wonton doles out dumplings Wednesdays and Thursdays from 4 to 8:30 p.m. and Fridays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 2878 Fairfax St.

In particular, the di san xian, a stirfry of potatoes, eggplant, and red pepper, felt redundant when also ordering the Sichuan spicy eggplant. (Of the two, choose the eggplant.) Similarly, there’s no need to order the refreshing smashed cucumber salad as a small plate if you’re also choosing an entrée, which will arrive with the cucumbers as a side.

Despite the Ginger Pig’s evolution from a four-wheeled eatery into a brick-and-mortar restaurant (there’s also a takeout-only location in Boulder), its offerings remain in the realm of approachable street food, but they’re finely tuned and infused with serious soul. After all, chewy dumplings and savory noodles sustain the belly in a way that only comfort food can. And for Hess, this is comfort food. “As my Chinese sister says, the Ginger Pig is a tribute to her mom, who sadly passed away before the restaurant came to fruition,” Hess says. “Food is tied to so many memories and time spent with friends and family.”

^

The Ginger Pig’s xi duo shi, aka Hong Kong French toast

THE GINGER PIG

4262 Lowell Blvd. gingerpig.com

The Draw: Asian street food; inventive takes on traditional dishes

MAKFAM

When MAKfam opened in Baker in November, it put Kenneth G. Wan’s and Doris Yuen’s Cantonese American roots front and center with modern takes on the dishes they grew up eating. Order at the counter, sip an inventive cocktail such as a boozy Hong Kong iced tea, and do not miss the chicken and shrimp wontons (fancy wun tun tong). Tip: Make the most of the extra broth by dipping an order of lacy scallion pancakes into it. 39 W. First Ave.

The Drawback: The restaurant is busy, so be prepared to wait Noise Level: Medium to loud Don’t Miss: Lamb stir-fry, Hong Kong French toast, mentaiko spaghetti

Courtesy of Jeff Fierberg

old fashioned stirred with Japanese whisky while you wait. When your table is ready, you’ll make your way through the bustling, marketlike space to order at the counter.

So what exactly should you choose?

There’s char siu, a supremely tender, sweet-savory Chinese barbecue pork served with jasmine rice (this classic was a menu standout on the food truck, which debuted in 2016); a fiery, umami-rich ground pork noodle dish called ma yi shang shu tossed with fermented chile bean paste and Sichuan oil; a shatteringly crisp Korean fried chicken; and vegan Sichuan eggplant featuring slippery slices of Chinese eggplant lacquered in a dark sauce of scallion, garlic, bean paste, and sambal. Each of these dishes is lusty and rich, but my heart lies with the Xinjiang yang rou, a lamb stirfry that bursts with the earthy-citrusy flavor of cumin seed. Another favorite, the mentaiko spaghetti—a wildly popular dish in Japan—sings with the oceanic flavors of pollock roe and furikake, a spice mixture of dried nori and sesame seeds.

Hess’ dishes showcase Sichuan peppercorns and spicy chiles, but in a way that typically translates to deep flavor, not overriding heat. Even so, the spice level can creep up. Many entrées come with jasmine rice and a smashed cucumber salad that help tamp down the flames, but the most effective fire hydrant is the xi duo shi, a cornflake-crusted Hong Kong–style French toast. The crunchy-sweet layers of Texas-toast-style white bread, fried cornflakes, kaya (coconut) jam, sweetened condensed milk, and butter fit firmly into the dessert category.

But when ordered as an appetizer (the item is listed in both spots on the menu), the dish—which traditionally features peanut butter instead of kaya jam—serves as an extinguisher when subsequent courses get too spicy. Plus, leftovers pair spectacularly well with coffee the next morning.

One minor quibble I had with Hess’ menu is repetition. As such, you’ll want to pay close attention to balance when ordering. If you choose too many dishes from the same section, you might layer up on similar flavors, ingredients, and spice levels.

A visit to Rare Finds is nothing short of a treasure hunt that brings the world to you.

From carved consoles and benches to high-quality upholstered and top grain leather sofas and chairs, lighting, architectural elements, unique accents and accessories for every space in your home—a visit to Rare Finds engages your senses and your imagination. We follow design trends, visit trade shows around the world, and listen to our customers, whether they are furnishing a house in town or a mountain getaway. Our pieces are handpicked to reflect the kind of ease and individuality that makes Rare Finds Denver’s go-to location for unique furnishings. We especially enjoy seeing how our customers incorporate their rare finds into their everyday living and working spaces.

TWO CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: DENVER AND HIGHLANDS RANCH

OPEN DAILY 10AM TO 6PM

RareFinds.com | Follow us:

REAL ESTATE

Do You Believe In Miracles?

Virtually everyone who’s lived in Steamboat Springs for longer than a decade waxes nostalgic about the dodgy hovels that provided their first homes in the ski resort community. Mine was a groundfloor apartment infested with earwigs that covered the floors, walls, and ceilings every summer. The “shanty” is how one of my friends refers to the drafty cabin that initially sheltered her. Even Jason Peasley, a well-known name around town these days, shakes his head when he remembers the “sketchy little stained-glass house” he occupied when he moved to Steamboat at 24 years old.

Seventeen years later, Peasley now lives in a handsome townhome with his wife, a teacher in the local school district, and two elementary-school-age daughters. But as the executive director of the Yampa Valley Housing Authority since 2012, Peasley—who embodies the mountain-dude look thanks to his trail shoes, trucker cap, and wiry red beard that collects icicles when he skis—sees mounting evidence that upward mobility is vanishing in Steamboat Springs. Increasingly, ski-bum crash pads are being scraped to make way for mansions, a trend that has caused the median price for a single-family home to escalate to $1.7 million.

Meanwhile, the rise of Airbnb and Vrbo have helped turn the modest condos and homes that once housed working folk into vacation rentals. Given the dearth of long-term leases, the median rent has skyrocketed to $4,100 per month; a studio or a bedroom in someone’s house commands as much as $1,500. “Some people now spend more than 50 percent of their monthly income on housing,” Peasley says.

That was true of my veterinarian’s two technicians, who cited the untenable cost of housing when they quit and moved away.

Businesses around town fly the “help wanted” flag, including schools (where many of the applicants ultimately have to turn down job offers because they can’t find suitable living arrangements) and medical providers (my dentist hires a visiting hygienist from Salt Lake City for a few days every month and houses her in his camper). Beyond creating a shortage 30

Jason Peasley at the planned site of Brown Ranch

A $24 million donation could allow Steamboat Springs to create a massive and much-needed affordable housing development—if residents approve the plan. BY K E L LY B AS T O N E

of services, the scarcity of attainable housing prevents people from becoming rooted in the community. When they’ve made their seasonal money or their family outgrows the size of their digs, they simply leave.

Then, in 2021, a miracle befell Steamboat Springs: Believing the town’s middleclass culture was dying, wealthy anonymous donors offered to fund something big enough to fix the housing shortage. They donated $24 million to the authority, which used the gift to purchase a 534-acre parcel just outside the northwest edge of the city. There, Peasley and his staff envisioned building an expansive neighborhood of homes for rent and purchase where local workers could actually afford to live.

PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID WILLIAMS

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

LET THE

SPIRIT OF OUR

WIDE-OPEN SPACES LEAD YOU TO THE ONE AND ONLY

CASPER

RE AL E STATE

In summer 2023, after two years of receiving input from citizen stakeholders and negotiating with city staff, the authority released the final annexation plan for Brown Ranch, a phased development that would build 2,264 residences, making it 25 times bigger than the housing authority’s largest existing complex. Ranging from apartments to detached single-family homes, the units would have a requirement that a resident work in Routt County, and a deed restriction would limit their market values and facilitate affordable resale. Construction, however, is contingent on the parcel’s annexation into Steamboat Springs, which would involve the city paying for installation of water, electricity, and other critical infrastructure. And that prospect turned the miracle into a civic melee.

Locals who oppose the new neighborhood unleashed a torrent of criticism, which centered on how growth would affect the community.

Upon completion in 25 years, Brown Ranch would house some 6,000 people—a little less than half of Steamboat’s current population— a figure that strikes many longtime locals as too big to maintain the town’s folksy character.

(Peasley’s retort? “The magnitude of the project is equal to the magnitude of the problem.”) Next month, residents of Steamboat Springs will vote

32

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

on annexation and the related costs of creating Brown Ranch. The results will reveal whether a majority of Steamboaters believe Brown Ranch will save their city’s character—or destroy it.

IF YOU’VE ATTENDED a public meeting in Steamboat, there’s a good chance you’ve heard Jim Engelken’s voice. A Steamboat city councilman in the 1990s and 2000s, the Denver native spent his childhood listening to his parents’ political debates. “My dad supported Nixon; my mother, McGovern,” he recalls. Engelken moved to Steamboat in 1979, where he helped open the local Safeway and inhabited a mobile home before eventually buying a single-family residence. Recently retired, the 65-year-old attends town hall discussions and City Council meetings he feels passionate about: He once fought pro-development representatives who wanted to shrink Steamboat’s affordable housing mechanisms. Today, he opposes Brown Ranch.

“It will segregate this community into the people who need government-subsidized housing and everybody else,” Engelken says.

Funding is the most obvious challenge. The donors’ $24 million paid for the land, but estimates for the sewer and water pipes, roads, and other necessary infrastructure come to $482

million. In November, 55 percent of Steamboaters who voted approved a ballot measure granting the Yampa Valley Housing Authority 75 percent of the revenue from the community’s nine percent tax on short-term rentals for up to 20 years, totaling an estimated $200 million. That covers the authority’s portion of off-site infrastructure costs, but the city is still $42 million short on its share.

Steamboat could make up the difference by increasing revenues, but locals have been reluctant to tax themselves in the past. In 1978, residents voted to end the city’s property tax in favor of sales tax, which remains Steamboat’s main source of funds. That annual haul is subject to the volatility of consumer spending and isn’t enough to cover Steamboat Springs’ existing needs. Meanwhile, 81 percent of Steamboat respondents to a 2022 survey indicated that creating affordable housing is essential or very important—but only eight percent expressed a willingness to reinstate a property tax to pay for it.

Some Steamboaters already seem primed to classify Brown Ranch residents as secondclass citizens. Posts on social media exhibited racist and classist stereotypes about the people who would inhabit Brown Ranch, which some opponents have called “a ghetto.” Other locals have registered their disdain on the public

SOON YOU COULD BE LOVING LIFE IN YOUR LIVING ROOM. WITH BEYOND-BEAUTIFUL CORETEC LUXURY VINYL. COREtec is 100% waterproof, super easy to maintain, and is even available in wide plank.

That’s why you’re absolutely going to love it.

So come see all the options for yourself right here at Carpet Exchange. Without a doubt, your new look could be utterly life changing.

17 FRONT RANGE LOCATIONS TO SERVE YOU | CARPETEXCHANGE.COM CARPET | HARDWOOD | TILE | AREA RUGS | COUNTERTOPS | CORETEC

RE AL E STATE

record. “You do get a different group of people in affordable housing,” one resident said during an October 2023 City Council meeting.

“I know that sounds horrible, but walk around those places…it’s terrible.”

Underpinning such concerns is some locals’ desire to simply stop Steamboat from growing.

“It’s too big,” Engelken says of Brown Ranch.

He praises the Yampa Valley Housing Authority for having realized seven projects that now house an estimated 1,175 people in smaller complexes within existing neighborhoods, but he bristles at Peasley’s all-inclusive attitude: A year ago, he heard Peasley say that the goal of Brown Ranch was to “house anybody and everybody who wants to move to Steamboat Springs,” Engelken recalls.

“And I thought, Really? What’s the model for that?

What resort community has thrown open their doors to the world and said, ‘Everybody come move here’?” (Peasley claims Engelken is misconstruing his intentions, maintaining that, “we want to have the opportunity for everyone who works in Steamboat Springs to have the choice to live in the community where they work.”)

Housing authority data indicate that Steamboat Springs needs 1,400 more residential units to meet current demand for workers.

That number will likely grow, as the state

34

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

demographer’s office projects Routt County’s population will rise from 24,899 today to 30,133 by 2040. The affordable housing problem is so big, Engelken believes anyone who says it can be fully solved is naive or misguided.

Plus, Engelken fears Brown Ranch would actually outpace demand—and could consequently incite a mass migration to Steamboat Springs to take advantage of cheap mountain living.

Despite such objections, in October, the City Council approved annexation of 420 of the 534 acres at Brown Ranch. The authorization, plus $7.7 million in state and federal grants secured by the authority, gave the project’s contractor the green light to begin work. But Engelken and four other residents’ Let Steamboat Vote campaign succeeded in securing enough signatures to halt construction and force the annexation question to a public vote.

BROWN RANCH ENJOYS enthusiastic support outside of Steamboat. Peasley often hears comments from housing professionals in other resort communities who wish they had the philanthropy and build-friendly geography that allow Steamboat to consider affordable housing at such a significant scale. Although challenges do exist, Peasley believes Brown Ranch can be

copied: “From our peer communities to the highest levels of the state, people are watching [Brown Ranch] because they’re hoping that this can be the model for how communities can take control of their housing situations.”

Should Steamboat Springs voters choose not to approve Brown Ranch, however, the project might also serve as a cautionary tale illustrating the social limits of scaling up affordable housing. “Why wouldn’t we be proactive and take control of that growth and make sure that growth benefitted our local workers,” Peasley says, “instead of just building second homes?”

If Engelken is the actuary who tallies the risks and costs, Peasley is the dreamer who imagines upward mobility for all, even cash-poor residents of Colorado’s wealthiest communities. Both worry that Steamboat’s character hangs in the balance, that the town is vulnerable to changes that are eroding the very qualities that made this a great place to call home. Engelken wants to save the small-town feel. Peasley wants to preserve residents’ ability to grow roots. This March, Steamboaters must decide which matters most. m Kelly Bastone is a Steamboat Springs–based writer. Send feedback to letters@5280.com.

www.mhkarchitecture.com

The Occasional Drink RUBR IC

BEST BARS

Hello Darling’s cozy space is perfect for enjoying coffee or cocktails, such as a pink-hued, ginbased Clover Club.

36

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

Whether you’re seeking liquid fuel for a weekend pub crawl or a well-made elixir to take the edge off a long day, there’s a bar for every purpose. Here, 24 of our favorite places to grab a glass in and around Denver right now.

EDITED BY PATRICIA KAOWTHUMRONG PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH BANKS

F E B R UA R Y 2024 / 5280

37

BEST FOR

Sips & A Show MERCURY CAFE Five Points

This eclectic bar has been an escape for misfit music lovers since it opened its doors at its current location—a renovated printing press house in Five Points—on Halloween 1990.

Inside, a twinkling canopy 38

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

of fairy lights illuminates the hodgepodge of booths, chesterfield sofas, and wooden kitchen chairs, almost as if all the regulars pitched in a personal table or two, jokes owner Danny Newman. “Both physically and energy-wise, people are making their mark on it,” he says.

Jazz sets, R&B acts, and tribute bands all sound better when you have a tasty beverage in hand. That’s particularly true if you’re in the audience at one of the following venues—long-loved spots that have been given new life over the past couple of years.

“It’s one of those things that just has layers of history that are visible.” A quick glance at the walls covered in a jigsaw puzzle of band posters hints at the Merc’s rich history—one that includes performances from heavy hitters on their rise to headlining stardom such as

Blink-182, Foo Fighters, and Alanis Morissette. Since taking over the cafe in 2021 after it nearly closed in the wake of COVID-19, Newman has been working to reinstate the Mercury Cafe as a leader in Denver’s live music scene, digging up rising stars before

live music venue reopened in April 2022 with concertfriendly upgrades. Now, patrons can watch acts on a stage equipped with improved lighting and sound equipment or show off their moves at theme parties on a larger dance floor. Fuel up for an evening of entertainment with handhelds such as cheese curds, fried pickles, or roasted green chile cornbread and colorful, citrus-forward cocktails like the Airedale, a grapefruit- and bourbon-based concoction with Aperol, or the Burlesque, which blends tequila, lime, Midori, and sage syrup. For budget-friendly fun, book a reservation during brunch, when shows are included with your meal and mimosas are bottomless.

—Visvajit Sriramrajan DAZZLE Downtown

Jazz artist Ronnie Foster at Dazzle

they start selling out stadiums. Snag a spot in front of the stage with a dangerously smooth Mercury Margarita in hand and you just might discover the next Goo Goo Dolls before anyone else.

—Jessica Giles OPHELIA’S ELECTRIC SOAPBOX Ballpark

Ophelia’s Electric Soapbox is proof that there’s nothing like a good comeback. After a two-year, pandemic-induced hiatus, the former brothel turned bar, restaurant, and

Time travel isn’t a reality yet, but a night at Dazzle—a beloved jazz club that first opened in 1997—comes pretty darn close. The live music venue relocated (for a second time) to a space in the Denver Performing Arts Complex in August, but despite it seating 45 more viewers than at its previous location, the multiple listening options ensure it doesn’t feel any less intimate.

Nab ticketed banquette seats for a prime perch to listen to brass bands and jazz combos play on the big stage, or for a cozier performance, stop by the adjoining El Chapultepec Piano Lounge (an homage to the 91-year-old downtown jazz club that closed in 2020) for solo sets with no cover charge. Our go-to order is an equally retro French 75—gin and lemon juice finished with a healthy pour of bubbly—but Manhattan lovers can also get their fix. We may be stuck sipping in the 21st century, but Dazzle lets us travel back to the Roaring Twenties for an evening. —Ethan Pan

BEST DAY DRINKING FOR

Whatever the reason you’re hitting the sauce before happy hour—an extended boozy brunch, a game day watch fest, or a daylong birthday celebration—there are plenty of watering holes that cater to afternoon buzz seekers.

DENVER BEER CO. Lowry According to an informal poll of boozing buddies, a good day drinking spot requires a few components: a patio or deck for sunshine; light beers worth sipping (cocktails are asking for an early exit); and a vibe that invites you to linger. Enter Denver Beer Co.’s newest taproom, which opened in Lowry a year ago. Its dog-friendly patio abuts a small green space and playground so you can let the little ones run wild while hydrating with a five percent ABV Love This City Pilsner.

There are plenty of picnic tables and foldable camp chairs for lounging, and if you can’t snag a spot under the veranda, three massive garage doors let the outside in. Plus, at just a mile and a half from the Highline Canal Trail, you can easily pedal to the taproom from a huge swath of Denver. —Nicholas Hunt BURNDOWN Washington Park West At nine-month-old BurnDown on South Broadway, each of the three stories has a bar. That means you’re never too far from your next draft cocktail (such as the Silk Suit with local Bear Creek vodka, bittersweet Suze, tarragon, and blackberry) or bucket of Coronas. If your gang comes in fatigued, order a four-person espresso martini shot ski—a literal pick-me-up—before heading to the rooftop for fresh air and views of the Rockies and downtown Denver. Thursday through Saturday, you’ll likely find a local band or DJ jamming on the stage in the atrium, which has a concert calendar packed with everything from rock-and-roll acts to swing and jazz combos to booty-shaking dance tracks. But no matter when you arrive, there’s a party waiting around every corner. —EP THE RIO GRANDE MEXICAN RESTAURANT LoDo The Rio has been quenching Coloradans’ thirst for strong tequilabased drinks since 1986. In fact, the potions are so potent that the Tex-Mex restaurant and bar has a three-marg-per-customer limit.

Although you can sip your way toward that cap every day starting at 11 a.m. at any of the Rio’s five Front Range locations, the Denver outpost is our favorite for an afternoon of knocking a few back. It has a sunny patio for people-watching and plentiful booths for big groups, courtesy of a move from Blake Street to a corner building on Wazee Street in summer 2022. Ask for a round of your choice of margaritas—options include the popular frozen Manberry (strawberry and mango) and the lime-zinged Silver Coin—with the B.A.P. (big-ass plate) of carnitas nachos. The combination is excellent fuel for a lunchtime pub crawl. —PK

F E B R UA R Y 2024 / 5280

39

BEST FOR

SLOW SIPPING

Sidle up to the bar at these cocktail temples, where mixologists sling sips that are worth lingering over.

LA DOÑA MEZCALERIA Platt Park For a long time, the garden-level space that housed La Doña Mezcaleria (formerly Palenque Mezcaleria) was a cozy nook with a few tables and low lighting. As of June 2020, though, the bar—owned by the same team behind nearby Adelitas Cocina y Cantina—has added a small inside dining area and a large covered patio. The result is a trifecta of spaces with different vibes for indulging in the spot’s signature spirit: mezcal. The smoky agave liquor comes in flights, but mixed drinks might be the best option for the uninitiated. The mezcal-curious should consider the Mezcalrita (Madre Mezcal Espadín, lime juice, and simple syrup), the paloma (Madre Mezcal Espadín, grapefruit juice, and organic agave), or the island-y Blue Oaxacan (Rey Campero Mezcal Espadín, Uruapan Charanda rum, blue curaçao, coconut, and pineapple). Soak up the booze with chips and salsa, tacos, or tamales. —Lindsey B. King EMERALD EYE LoDo This seven-month-old bar underneath Larimer Square transports patrons from the streets of downtown to the depths of a Caribbean jungle. Occupying the space that once housed the Crimson Room, Disco Pig, and other dearly departed drinking dens, the Emerald Eye is a labyrinth of subdued lighting, yellow suede chairs, and green palm leaf wallpaper. Linger over creations such as the Cajillo, a boozy cocktail that includes citrusy Licor 43, Torres brandy, and cold brew. Or try the horchata-inspired milk punch, which unites the cinnamon aroma of the classic Mexican rice drink with the smoked fruit flavor of Batavia-Arrack van Oosten (a rum made with sugarcane juice and fermented red rice). Drop in on the weekend, when DJs spin calypso and reggae beats, or during Reverse Happy Hour (11 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily) to save $3 on select tipples, including the rum-heavy daiquiri. —Kinzey Gill THE LAZY GREYHOUND Littleton Downtown Littleton’s two-year-old Lazy Greyhound, named after owners Kristin and Jason Ungate’s pup Guybrush, is a haven for lovers of both canines and cocktails. You can order from the Old Dogs list of classics, such as the White Russian and old fashioned, but we recommend perusing the menu of New Tricks. There, you’ll find adventurous sips such as the Raspberry Beret, a concoction of vodka, raspberry honey, curaçao, cream, lemon, and egg white that tastes just as delicious as it looks. And while the addition of root vegetables to the Over the Garden Wall might seem offputting, the carrots in the drink complement the bitterness of the Arette tequila and add a bright orange hue. Pair your elixir with shareable bites, such as the roasted whiskey garlic mushrooms or Manchego-stuffed piquillo peppers, in the bar’s British-loungeinspired interior, decorated with art depicting the owners’ pup and button-tufted booths. —Barbara O’Neil 40

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

Emerald Eye lead bartender Meg Ostrander

A Big BEST FOR Night Out

Long evenings on the town require venues with lots of options—at various ABVs. Consider these standouts, where you can quaff a wellmixed drink in an energetic ambience from happy hour to last call. Just make sure your Uber app is up to date.

YACHT CLUB Cole

Yacht Club—which puts on no airs in the manner of a yacht or country club—can be just about anything you desire it to be.

You want craft cocktails, such as the Threat Level Midnight, made with rye,

bourbon, Macvin du Jura wine, chai honey, dark chocolate, and coconut? You’ve come to the right place. How about a Kingston Negroni, wherein the traditional gin is replaced by rum? They can make that, too.

Jonesing for a hot dog and a Combo Pack (a can of Miller High Life and a one-ounce

shot of Jim Beam)? Bingo.

Yacht Club has perfected the trend of bars going both high and low, with creative, well-made cocktails sitting side by side with massproduced beers and cheap whiskey shots. If you’re looking for something more than a hot dog for supper, however, start at Yacht Club, then take the back door to neighboring Brasserie Brixton for French-inspired eats.

—Geoff Van Dyke

coconut, and rum wafting from Ay Papi, one of the district’s newest watering holes from Nicole Lebedevitch, partner and beverage director of Forget Me Not (situated one block away). Ay Papi is inspired by the vibrant cultures of Cuba, Puerto Rico, and Miami, and the birds-of-paradise-bedecked

space (usually vibrating with Latin and pop beats) delights all the senses. Start your Caribbean escape with a daiquiri, mojito, or other spirit-forward pour. We like the rum old fashioned, a strong sipper made with a “funky rum” concoction (consisting of four dark rums), Demerara sugar, honey-citrus

Bénédictine liqueur, molespice bitters, and an orange peel. Or go with a classic Cuba Libre: funky rum, bitters, lime, and Mexican Coca-Cola.

Add bites such as tangy halibut ceviche or a comforting Cubano to extend your fiesta long into the evening.

—Riane Menardi Morrison

Hell or High Water Tiki’s Rum Inside Me

HELL OR HIGH WATER TIKI LoDo

From the owners of twoyear-old Electric Cure, a quirky Edgewater nook with beach drinks, Hell or High Water Tiki made sail in July 2022. This time, owners Veronica Ramos and Lexi Healy mixed up the story of a haunted gay pirate ship, where flamboyant fun is fueled by rum and mezcal. On the mezzanine level of sister bar Honor Farm Haunted Spirit House (which has a killer drink list, too), Hell or High Water’s devil-maycare vibe—replete with phallic decor and drink names to match—is best enjoyed after you’ve tossed back a few lower-ABV beverages. We suggest bellying up to a barrel, ordering the Rum Inside Me (house rum blend, allspice dram, pineapple, grapefruit, honey, lime, orange, falernum, grenadine, and angostura bitters) or the Boof-Scootin Boogie (mezcal, aged rum, banana, crème de cacao, pineapple, and lime) and convincing yourself that tomorrow morning’s seasickness will be worth it. —LBK

A ​​ Y PAPI Cherry Creek

Since July 2023, visitors to Cherry Creek may catch a hint of sea salt, F E B R UA R Y 2024 / 5280

41

BEST FOR

FILLING BELLIES

Imbibing on an empty stomach is a recipe for a nasty hangover. Thankfully, there are plentiful bars that offer both solid drinks and good eats.

K POCHA Aurora This year-old South Korean pub and restaurant—open until 2 a.m., Tuesday through Sunday—stands out for its hearty late-night fare. Cozy up in a booth, where you’ll press a button on the stringlight-adorned wall when you’re ready to order. Highlights from the beverage menu include 13 flavors of smooth, clear soju (try the grapefruit); makgeolli, a milky rice wine infused with fruits such as peach and banana; and raisin tree tea, a nonalcoholic drink reported to lower fatigue and support liver function. Soak up your libations with sweet and spicy chicken wings, marinated pork ribs, or the Korean seafood pancake topped with juicy grilled octopus, then belt out tunes in the karaoke room (reservations recommended). —VS OK YEAH Berkeley Whether you’re planning to grab a pre- or post-dinner drink, the combo of Hey Kiddo’s eclectic food and OK Yeah’s choose-yourown-adventure beverage program makes for a compelling evening.

The 11-month-old offerings, from Kelly Whitaker (of Brutø and the Wolf’s Tailor fame), live on the third floor of a boutique hotel, but make no mistake: This is no hotel bar. OK Yeah, located behind Hey Kiddo, is a 16-seat hideaway with mountain views, a large block of ice for carving custom cubes, and apron-bedecked mixologists who will whip up something special just for you. For those who’ve been disappointed by bespoke booze before, fear not. We ordered four drinks—including a mocktail—and there wasn’t a stinker in the bunch. Then, when our table at Hey Kiddo was ready, the barkeep transferred our tab to the bustling front of the house, where we balanced out the booze with buttery milk rolls, oysters, popcorn fried chicken, and wagyu beef. —LBK MAJOR TOM RiNo Executive chef Duncan Holmes and director of experience Allison Anderson know how to add a touch of refinement to just about anything, including bar snacks. At this year-old, cosmic-themed bar and restaurant—adjacent to Michelinstarred Beckon, its sister concept—Holmes serves oysters dressed with Champagne gelée and panisse (chickpea fries) laced with black truffle. The tight lineup of larger, share-worthy plates is designed to pair with wine director Justin Mueller’s deep list, including nine by-the-glass offerings, and complex cocktails. Order the red-miso-glazed charred cabbage with confit lemon and the umami-rich venison tartare to devour with the Verjus, a fizzy and refreshing drink made with tart white wine, Meyer lemon, blanco tequila, and Cava. —PK

42

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

BEST FOR

Fun & Games

Bars equipped with activities are nothing new.

But over the past few years, innovators have introduced fresh destinations for Denverites to partake in both old-school and high-tech games, from bocce ball to golf simulators, while quaffing adult beverages.

six axe-throwing lanes, and pingpong tables. The lineup of things to do joins FlyteCo’s existing competition-friendly offerings, which include SkeeBall, arcade games, and bowling lanes. In between challenging your mates amid murals of planes flying over the Mile High City skyline, refuel with appetizers such as fried pickles (wrapped in a crispy wonton skin with Muenster cheese) or fries coated in clarified butter.

Then order a glass of wine, a brew from one of the 20 taps, or a draft cocktail to wash it all down. Hint: Try the Ice Man, 100-proof bourbon with local honey and orange bitters, or the earthy and hoppy Late-A-RyeVal IPA. —Brock Muñoz COLORADO TAP HOUSE Arvada

Flight Club

FLIGHT CLUB LoDo

Partaking in drinking games, sans the sticky floors and terrible beer of your college days, is one of the greatest perks of adulthood. At Flight Club— an international chain whose Denver location opened by Union Station last June—you can test your tipsy aim at high-tech darts. Reserve an oche (dart lane) for up to 12 of your friends-turned-foes and take turns sipping on cocktails and playing Flight Club’s proprietary game formats on computerized boards. Dart newbies, don’t

fret: Automatic scorekeeping and friendly staff mean even the clumsiest of players can keep up, but if you’re more entertained watching from the sidelines, there’s plenty of delicious food and drink to dive into within the chic, Victorian-inspired environs.

Order from the menagerie of signature cocktails named after animals, such as the rum-based Iguana infused with ginger, hibiscus liqueur, allspice, gingerbread rooibos tea, and lime or the royal purple Lynx with butterfly-pea-blossom-tinted Empress 1908 Gin, lavender, and lemon tonic. Then

pick a few small plates—such as the yuzu guacamole and the Burrata flatbread—to keep everyone’s hands steady between rounds. —EP OVER FLYTE Central Park

Located in the defunct Stapleton air traffic control tower, Over Flyte elevates bar entertainment to new heights. This extension of 18-month-old FlyteCo Tower—a restaurant, brewery, and coffeeshop in Central Park—debuted this past July with three Pro 2.0 golf simulators that track your ball’s flight with realistic accuracy,

Whatever your skill, you can find a way to test it at this multilevel, nearly two-yearold hangout in west Arvada.

Speed? Race your pals for primo patio seats during Tuesday night’s run club.

Brainpower? Round up a group for trivia on Mondays.

Good at throwing things at other things? Head to the dogfriendly, crushed gravel area out back to play cornhole or bocce.

No matter your preferred pursuit, longtime area residents and Colorado Tap House proprietors Erik and Jen Zeitlow want you to bring the whole family (perhaps by bike, via the adjacent Ralston Creek Trail) to their friendly neighborhood spot, starting at 8:30 every morning. Rotating food trucks complement the on-site kitchen’s lineup of breakfast burritos and snacks, and 30 taps host a well-balanced selection of sips from Colorado makers such as WeldWerks Brewing Co., Stem Ciders, and Bruz Beers. It’s the full drink lineup, however—local spirits, wine slushies, coffee, kombucha, and even a frozen blue raspberry beverage for the kiddos—that ensures every visitor feels like a winner. —Jessica LaRusso F E B R UA R Y 2024 / 5280

43

WOLF & WILDFLOWER Wheat Ridge

Wheat Ridge’s 38th Avenue, which has long been home to a selection of dimly lit taverns and casual pubs, had been wanting for a more sophisticated (but still comfortable) alternative. So when Tamara McTavish and Sarah Galloway opened Wolf & Wildflower this past July, they aimed to create a venue for swirling glasses of Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot that contrasts with those casual dives slinging PBR and Jameson shots. The result is a bright, boho-inspired space furnished with plants, a neon sign with the Tom Petty lyric “You belong among the wildflowers,” and plush pink armchairs.

The elegance is also reflected in the wine list, which sports Colorado-based Carboy Winery offerings on tap, as well as wines available by the glass and bottle from around the globe, such as a fruit-forward Grillo from Sicily or the spicy Esoterico orange blend from Australia. Pair your selections with one of two charcuterie boards. Our choice: the Howling Wolf, which features seasonal cheeses, spicy salami, and mustard. —BO

THREE SAINTS REVIVAL LoDo

Three Saints Revival

BEST FOR

Clinking Glasses

Snooty wine bars overrun with pinky-raising oenophiles are a thing of the past.

These establishments offer expertly curated bottles and glasses from producers around the world in welcoming, laid-back environs.

44

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

If you love wine but can’t commit to ordering a single bottle, or even a single glass, Three Saints Revival has you covered. Last May, the twoyear-old, Mediterranean-style tapas and wine bar converted its traditional bottle program to a fully tap-based format to reduce waste and give customers a more flexible tasting room experience. The draft wine setup kept 8,700 bottles out of the landfill last year while providing access to 28 varieties—from rosé to Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon to Chenin Blanc—available in 2.5-, five-, eight-ounce, or one-liter pours for maximum sipping and sampling.

Updated quarterly, the wine and food menus offer variety throughout the year, meaning regular patrons can diversify their orders in the funky industrial-chic setting located inside the Hotel Indigo. Ask the staff for pairing suggestions, but don’t miss tempting bites such as the slow-cooked Moroccan lamb, grilled octopus, and mushroom risotto.

—Antony Bruno TRELLIS WINE BAR Park Hill

In 2021, sommelier Ilona Botton and business partner Alisha Stolz launched Trellis Wine Bar in the Park Hill Commons complex as a gathering space for local wine lovers seeking variety. At the two-story venue, the friends hope to pique guests’ curiosity with a wall-size chalkboard menu of more than 40

Hello Darling’s espresso martini

rotating, by-the-glass offerings of diverse provenance, with staff favorites denoted by RFG (Really F*cking Good). Sip on half-priced offerings during happy hour (4 to 5 p.m., daily) while basking in the chic sunlit lounge that’s alive with greenery.

Or graze on charcuterie, cheeses, and house-made snacks at the bar adjacent to the glassed-in bottle cooler or on a snug, limehued velvet couch. Stay into the evening to appreciate the warm glow of the space and the bustle of a lively crowd of grape nerds and novices alike as they relish the chance to mingle over newfound favorite pours, particularly during monthly Blind Tasting Tuesdays and Flight Nights. —Chris Marhevka

CATCHING MULTIPLE BUZZES

BEST FOR

Why decide between coffee or a cocktail? These allday cafes go well beyond the still-trendy espresso martini by offering menus that give customers what they want, no matter the hour.

HELLO DARLING LoDo Whether you’re grinding through a to-do list or catching up with a friend IRL, what you need is a cozy hangout spot. Riverfront Park’s Hello Darling is just that. During the day, lush plants, pastel hues, and plenty of natural light offer the energy you need to power through that Google spreadsheet—with a boost from pastries and MiddleState Coffee–based drinks. Or pep up for yet another Zoom meeting with a carajillo (a Spanish beverage that spikes espresso with a shot of liqueur). Once the sun sets, the venue’s soft woods and velvet couches take on a sultry vibe, transforming Hello Darling into an enchanting locale for ordering a cocktail (perhaps a gimlet, martini, or mezcal paloma) and sharing a snack with your evening date. Just be sure to put that laptop away first. —Daliah Singer SALITA Capitol Hill One thing coffee and cocktails have in common: The best versions require precision and artistry. Enter the masters at year-old Salita. Helmed by pros from Green Russell (the beloved subterranean Larimer Square bar that closed at the end of 2022), this chic corner spot is all about the details, whether that’s infusing dozens of their own syrups or experimenting with intriguing ingredients— such as fermented garlic honey syrup in the easy-drinking Birds, Bees, Flowers, Trees. And, yes, the apron-wearing connoisseurs take a.m. concoctions just as seriously. Espresso and Americanos are on the menu, but you can also level up your patio sipper by ordering a pistachio latte. —DS SIDE PONY West Colfax At the corner of West Colfax Avenue and Vrain Street, you can score an endorphin high and a buzz, thanks to boutique fitness studio Duality and neighboring Side Pony. (The bar, which opened last winter, is co-owned by the gym’s crew and the F&B experts at downtown’s Pony Up.) Here, you can carbo-load with a naughty PB&J board—wicked for its white chocolate cashew butter—and a protein latte or a cuppa Queen City Collective Coffee while cute pooches wait outside to finish their walks around nearby Sloan’s Lake Park. Afternoon sweat sesh? The transition to cocktail o’clock begins early, with happy hour kicking off at 2 p.m. Krista Orlebeck—a former Death & Co barista and onetime Pony Up head bartender—consulted on the lineup of cocktails, wines, and beers. Among our favorites: the brightly hued, mezcal-heavy Oaxacan Sunset and the sweet-savory blend of rum, green tea, herbal liqueur, and peach bitters in This B*tch. —DS m F E B R UA R Y 2024 / 5280

45

In

PODS

We Trust

Podcasts got us through the pandemic and have become part of our everyday lives.

Allow us to present 26 of our go-tos, all of which are either produced by Coloradans or focus on issues important to the Rocky Mountain West. Some are a few years old but just as relevant as ever, while others are still cranking out new episodes. All of them are required listening. Grab your headphones and hit play.

E D I T E D BY L I N D S E Y B. K I N G & G E O F F VA N DY K E I L L U S T R AT I O N BY M E L I N DA B E C K

F E B R UA R Y 2024 / 5280

47

Bundyville

City Cast Denver

Daily or weekly podcasts are often built on personalities, and part of why City Cast Denver works so well is the chemistry between From: City Cast Davies and Karolyi, who are by turns serious, probing, honest, and Hosts: Bree Davies and funny—and always smart. They’ll Paul Karolyi opine on the latest news in the city, Frequency: Daily interview newsmakers and sources with subject expertise, and have on special guests once a week for longer episodes dissecting what’s going on in the Mile High City.

(Disclosure: Lindsey King and I were guests on an episode last summer, and the City Cast Denver team records episodes in the 5280 office once a week.) Whether the duo is talking about the re-opening of Casa Bonita, intractable transportation issues, Colorado green chile, or city politics, they bring intelligence and levity to the topics on the minds—or the topics that should be on the minds—of Denverites. —GVD

Dear White Women Hosts: Sara Blanchard and Misasha Suzuki Graham Frequency: Biweekly Episodes: 238

Death In The West Hosts: Zach Dundas, Chad Dundas, Erika Fredrickson, and Leif Fredrickson Seasons: Two Episodes: 23 This quartet—composed of three journalists and a professor—tackles “strange crimes and unsolved intrigues” in the American West, but that description undersells this independent podcast. In the vein of Serial and the best narrative pods, Death in the West employs dogged research and reporting, original music, field interviews, archival clips, and sharp writing and editing as the hosts investigate Western mysteries. Season one covers the 1917 murder of union organizer Frank Little in Butte, Montana; season two looks into the 1971 hijacking of a Northwest Orient flight from Seattle to Portland, Oregon.

Both seasons keep listeners engaged and guessing as the Death in the West team attempts to fully unravel these much-stranger-thanfiction tales. —GVD

What started in 2019 as two half-Japanese, half-white besties sharing the conversations they were already having about race and social justice has evolved into an eponymous book, speaking engagements and corporate workshops, and episodes that often feature high-profile guests with diverse perspectives. Whether they’re talking to He/She/They author and trans inclusion advocate Schuyler Bailar, workplace DEI expert Mita Mallick, or former U.S. Senator Doug Jones, Denver-based Blanchard and Suzuki Graham, who lives in California, stay focused on compassionately encouraging white women—and anyone else with social influence—to act on what they hear. “You can listen and learn and be on the back burner forever,” Blanchard says. “Nothing changes unless you do something.” —Jessica LaRusso

DNVR Nuggets Podcast From: DNVR Hosts: Adam Mares, Harrison Wind, Brendan Vogt, Eric Wedum, and Duvalier Johnson Frequency: Five days a week and after every game X’s and O’s? Check. Bigpicture analysis? Yep. Insightful interviews? You bet. The DNVR Nuggets

Enrique Micaelo Sanchez/Getty Images (headphones)

We originally thought this National Magazine Award–nominated podcast was a retelling of the Ted Bundy From: Oregon Public serial killer saga. Little did we realize Broadcasting and Longreads there was another notorious Bundy Host: Leah Sottile roaming the West: Cliven, a Nevada rancher who, along with his band Seasons: Two of anti-government radicals, was involved in standoffs with federal Episodes: 15 agents near his home in 2014 and in Oregon in 2016. In Sottile’s first season, she pulls off the best kind of retrospective reporting, creating empathy for Bundy by tracing his personal history of distrust for the federal government to the nuclear bomb tests of the 1950s, which poisoned many of Bundy’s neighbors.

By the end of the season, listeners just might find themselves siding with the bandit—or at least gaining a better understanding of how right-wing conspiracy theorists come by their paranoias. —Spencer Campbell

In We Trust

Guardians Of The River From: House of Pod (with the National Geographic Okavango Wilderness Project and the Wild Bird Trust) Host: Kerllen Costa Seasons: One

BEHIND THE MIC Paul Karolyi, host and executive producer, City Cast Denver

My favorite Colorado podcast: Get More Smarter

Podcast provides die-hard Denver basketball fans with almost daily opining on the defending NBA champions.

Mares, Wind, Vogt, Wedum, and Johnson are energetic and jocular, and they know the ins and outs of both the Nuggets organization and the NBA. Episodes include postgame recaps in addition to pods on nongame days that take a broader view and might focus on role players or contract situations. Whether this group is singing the praises of Reggie Jackson this season, interviewing Michael Porter Jr.’s skills coach, or being outraged after Nikola Jokić’s ejection from a game this past December, Mares & Co. consistently give Nuggets fans interesting, perceptive, and sometimes laugh-inducing episodes. —GVD

Courtesy of Blake Jackson (Karolyi)

Elevated Denver From: Elevated Denver Hosts: Johnna Flood, Nathan Havey, Liane Morrison, and Myra Nagy Frequency: Every two to three weeks Seasons: Two Episodes: 30

“Hilarious and insightful, co-hosts and Democratic strategist types Ian Silverii and Jason Bane deliver a compelling convo about Colorado politics every week and regularly book the exact guests I want to hear.”

Episodes: Eight This 2021 release from Colorado’s House of Pod expertly uses the medium to take listeners on an auditory journey to Africa’s Okavango River Basin. Primordial sounds leap from the headphones as Costa explains the mission of the National Geographic

Okavango Wilderness Project. He and his colleagues are there, along with House of Pod founder and producer Catherine Jaffee, to answer a question: How can they protect a threatened ecosystem that supports several communities and is home to some of the most endangered animals on Earth? It took more than two years for Jaffee to collect enough reporting to try to resolve that monumental inquiry. —LBK

We often hear about Denver’s homelessness crisis through shocking statistics and legal-jargon-filled ballot initiatives. This podcast, which released its debut season in spring 2022, takes a more human approach to the topic by centering the voices and stories of those most affected by homelessness in the metro area.

In each 20- to 30-minute episode, you’ll meet Denverites who are currently unhoused or have been in the past, learn about local humanitarian organizations with missions to help, and gain nuggets of knowledge that help demystify this complex and critical housing issue in the Mile High City. —Michelle Johnson

F E B R UA R Y 2024 / 5280

49

Laws Of Notion From: The Institute for Science & Policy at the Denver Museum of Nature & Science Frequency: Weekly, in season Seasons: Three Episodes: 28

Legends Of The Old West

Lost Highways: tales you thought you knew (was Alfred, aka Alferd, Packer really Dispatches from such a bad guy?). But what gives the Shadows the documentary-style episodes, of the Rocky which feature archival audio and contemporary interviews, true Mountains depth is the way they frequently

From: Black Barrel Media Host: Chris Wimmer Seasons: 32

We’re suckers for a good old-fashioned yarn, and the folks at Phoenix-based Black Barrel Media know how to weave one. Going strong since 2018, Legends of the Old West has delved into some of the West’s most iconic characters, bringing to life—through deep

reporting and deft storytelling—their quintessentially this-side-of-the-Mississippi tales. The two most recent seasons (we use that term loosely; they’re more like themed chapters of varying lengths) have focused on Buffalo Bill as well as the Donner party and the Bender family. If you don’t know those names, you should—and the most entertaining and informative way to learn is to cue up this high-quality pod. —LBK

draw connections to the present: The 2024 season will include episodes about the history of doping and the future of fairness in sports and how the 1881 lynching-in-effigy of a Chinese man in Gothic is related to why our mountain communities are not particularly diverse today. —JL

From: History Colorado (supported by the Sturm Family Foundation and the National Endowment for the Humanities)

Episodes: More than 200

BEHIND THE MIC Sara Blanchard, co-host of Dear White Women

My favorite Colorado podcast: Turmeric & Tequila

“I love host Kristen Olson’s boundless energy. She interviews a diverse group of mission-driven, authentic humans who inspire listeners to embrace radical selfacceptance, challenge the status quo, and chase their real purpose.”

Hosts: Noel Black and Maria Maddox Frequency: Biweekly, seasonally Seasons: Five Episodes: 33 Like many history podcasts, History Colorado’s Rocky Mountain West– focused Lost Highways delivers stories you can’t believe you’ve never heard (a Boulder county clerk issued six samesex marriage licenses and denied one to a man and his horse in 1975) and paradigm-shifting insights into

Mountain & Prairie Host: Ed Roberson Frequency: Every 10 days Episodes: 220 Conservationist Ed Roberson’s North Carolina accent may feel out of place in the American West, but make no mistake: Colorado Springs–based Roberson

has lived here since 2010 and is an advocate for the landscapes that make this part of the world so special. Mountain & Prairie has a simple conceit—long-form interviews with “innovators of the American West”—and Roberson is a capable and relaxed host. His guests include journalists, ranchers, athletes, and environmentalists— and just about anyone else who’s shaping what it means to live in this region right now. One of our favorite episodes is Roberson’s chat with

Courtesy of Pamela Li Photography (Blanchard)

Host: Kristan Uhlenbrock

In discussions about the most intractable scientific problems facing humanity, the humans most directly affected by policymakers are too often left out of the conversation. This nonprofit-produced, national-award-winning series gives literal voice to those Coloradans, from coal miners in Craig grappling with the closing of a local plant to Pueblo families who regularly breathe the state’s dirtiest air.

Uhlenbrock and her team spend the better part of each year building relationships with researchers, government officials, and everyday citizens to explore—in a relatable, storytelling style—issues such as the transition to clean energy (season one), water shortages (season two), and air pollution (season three). “We’re not here to tell what the solution should be,” Uhlenbrock says. “We’re here to understand.” —JL

In We Trust

The Grawlix Saves The World Hosts: Adam Cayton-Holland, Ben Roy, and Andrew Orvedahl Frequency: Weekly Episodes: 104 Cayton-Holland, Roy, and Orvedahl, the creators of the comedy troupe the Grawlix and TruTV’s Those Who Can’t, host this funny and thoughtful “self-help” pod, which both embraces and pokes fun at the genre. After 100 episodes, the trio is freshening up the podcast this year with a new weekly release schedule and a focus on thinking globally and acting locally. The hosts have fantastic chemistry, honed by 15 years of performing together and evidenced by their clear love for each other— which sometimes takes the form of brutally goofing on one another.

There are lots of f-bombs and lots of laughs, but there are also vulnerable and affecting moments, as in one episode from late 2023 in which the three discuss insecurities they deal with in their friendships and relationships. —GVD

Getty Images (microphone)

the actor-woodworker-environmentalist Nick Offerman, which is funny and also surprisingly enlightening. —GVD

The Modern West From: Wyoming Public Media and PRX Host: Melodie Edwards Seasons: Seven Episodes: 65 Whether Edwards is telling stories about the West’s ghost towns in the making or the continuing fallout from the Plains Indian Wars or, as she does in the pod’s most recent season, the surprising fury of metro Denver’s Marshall fire in December 2021, her innate Westernness is apparent.

Raised in rural Walden, Colorado, by a roughneck father and journalist mother, Edwards comes off as curious, thoughtful, and earnest as she interviews a diverse array of people and elucidates difficult subject matter that affects all Westerners, whether they know it or not. —LBK

Thirst Gap

It’s impossible to escape the unpleasant reality that the American West has a water problem.

As in, we don’t have enough of it—and no From: KUNC one can seem to agree on what to do about Host: Luke Runyon that. The dearth is nowhere more evident than on the Colorado River, which flows Seasons: One southwest from snow-covered peaks in the Centennial State and provides water to seven Episodes: Six U.S. states and parts of Mexico. In 2023’s Thirst Gap, Runyon explains the flawed 102-year-old Colorado River Compact that still divvies up the river; how farmers rely on the river; the region’s inflexible system of water rights; the record-low levels in Lake Powell; the restrictions on water usage in Las Vegas; the role Native American tribes should play in water allocation discussions; and the dry end the river meets before reaching the ocean. It’s not uplifting, but it’s critical information for those who would like to continue taking daily showers. —LBK

F E B R UA R Y 2024 / 5280

51

What’s Her Name Hosts: Katie Nelson and Olivia Meikle Frequency: Biweekly Episodes: 128 Academics (and sisters) Nelson and Meikle turned what could’ve been a sleepy podcast into an auditory delight in 2018 when they decided to dedicate a show to history’s forgotten women. The rapport between Meikle (an adjunct professor of gender and women’s studies at Boulder’s Naropa University) and Nelson (who has a doctorate in history and teaches at Utah’s Weber State University) works in the pod’s favor, bringing a conversational tone to the roughly 30- to 50-minute episodes that explore the lives of women who have been erased by time’s steady march. From one-time Coloradans such as Margaret “Molly” Brown and “Rattlesnake” Kate Slaughterback to Trinidad-born journalist and activist Claudia Jones and forensic scientist Frances Glessner Lee, the sisters illuminate the accomplishments of the fairer sex in a way that’s funny and smart and delivered in such a manner that reminds us all that the world would likely be a far better place if these women had received more credence and credit. —LBK

With(in) From: DU Prison Arts Initiative (DU PAI) and the Colorado Department of Corrections (CDOC) Hosts: Andrew Draper, Ashley Hamilton, and Denise Presson Frequency: Varies Episodes: 23 Poignant, sharply produced, and thoughtful, With(in) gives listeners a peek inside a world—American prisons—that most people only know through the movies.

Hosts Draper and Presson are both incarcerated in Colorado prisons, and Hamilton is the co-founder and executive director of the DU PAI; the three are deft whether they are interviewing men who have been sentenced to prison for life or the director

52

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

of the CDOC. The episodes—by turns raw, funny, heartbreaking, and thoughtprovoking—challenge your assumptions about the U.S. criminal justice system and stay with you long after you stop listening. If you don’t want to start at episode one, we recommend listening to “Fear Made the Lion,” parts one and two, which tells the story of two men who, after attempting to escape from prison, have shifted their outlooks on strength, violence, and masculinity. —GVD

BEHIND THE MIC

Catherine Jaffee, founder and producer, House of Pod My favorite Colorado podcast: Dear Alana,

“This show [about faith and sexuality] crushed me.

It takes place in Boulder and sears me raw because parts of this show ring close to home. I grew up in Boulder and went to Sacred Heart of Jesus Catholic School, where I was once pinned under a swing set and punched for admitting I was queer.

I was in fourth grade. Luckily, the thing that we worked on changing was my school, not my identity.

This show is sensitive, relevant, and important.”

Heavy In the Centennial State, Colorado Public Radio (CPR) is the undisputed champion of podcasting.

Here, the pods we love from the current title holder.

Back From Broken Host: Vic Vela Seasons: Four

This spread, from left: Benjamin Rasmussen (Jaffee); Seremin/Getty Images (earbuds)

Episodes: 36 Why we love it: Host Vela, whose final episode for CPR was recorded in August 2023, has a superpower: vulnerability. Now in recovery, Vela doesn’t shy away from sharing the bleakest moments from his 15 years of cocaine addiction. That honesty inspires his guests—including famous ones like Hunter Biden—to open up about their own challenges with substance misuse. But don’t let the somber stories fool you into thinking the show is a downer: Vela and his guests offer their stories to remind us all that we can overcome life’s toughest tests. —Chris Walker

Off The Walls Hosts: Kibwe Cooper and Emily Williams Frequency: Weekly, in season Episodes: Five Why we love it: Off the Walls, a newish pod from the CPR/ Denverite team, aims to tell the stories of murals in Denver—but really it’s about much more. The 30- to 40-minute episodes

provide listeners with artist profiles, neighborhood history lessons, and cultural context as Cooper and Williams use audio to describe visual artworks. Their reporting and interviews paint rich portraits of these murals and their stories; our favorite installment (so far) of this pod is the episode on Welton Street Cafe’s Fathima Dickerson, the dramatic mural of her in RiNo, and her efforts to reopen the iconic restaurant. —GVD

On Something Host: Ann Marie Awad Seasons: Three Episodes: 31 Why we love it: Legalizing pot already seems like old news, and many of us have come to take recreational weed for granted.

But Awad is able to cut through the haze to show us just how transformational legalization has been in the realms of politics, criminal justice, and culture. Using This American Life–style narration, Awad delves into all kinds of heady topics you don’t usually hear about, including pot’s carbon footprint, failures to make the cannabis industry equitable, and why legalization is meaningful to the LGBTQ community.

(Disclosure: I’m in an episode about weed smuggling.) Once

you’re On Something—as a listener—you’ll never think about pot the same way. —CW

Parched Host: Michael Elizabeth Sakas Seasons: One Episodes: 11 Why we love it: There could be something in the water that’s spurring journalists to make podcasts about the Colorado River. (See Thirst Gap on page 51.) But we think it’s likely the lack of H2O in the American West, which is the result of a 24-year megadrought. Parched is CPR’s entry in this subcategory of environmental pods.

Over the course of 11 episodes, Sakas takes us from the headwaters of the mighty Colorado River to Arizona, Nevada, California, and beyond to introduce us to people working to solve the water crisis while examining the ideas that could make it more sustainable to live in the arid West. —GVD

¿Quién Are We? Host: May Ortega Seasons: One Episodes: Nine Why we love it: Ortega’s adorable giggle is reason enough to tune into ¿Quién Are We?, but you’ll want to keep your AirPods in for the insightful and enjoyable explorations of the everyday lives of those who are part of Latino/Hispanic/Chicano communities in Denver and beyond. Raised in South Texas, Ortega is not only fluent in English and Spanish, but as a “first gen” Mexican American, she can also speak about examining identity. And at its core, that’s exactly what ¿Quién Are We? does: It looks at what it means to be Latino or Hispanic

or Chicano while also dancing, cooking, and politicking in Colorado. Season two is due out early in 2024. —LBK

Terra Firma Host: CMarie Fuhrman Frequency: Weekly, in season Seasons: One Episodes: Nine Why we love it: Unless we’ve missed something, there’s nothing else being produced in Colorado quite like Terra Firma.

Narrated by Fuhrman, a Colorado-born Indigenous poet and writer, the five- to 10-minute episodes could be substituted for your favorite meditation app. Fuhrman’s rhythmic voice, paired with the sounds of squawking birds, babbling brooks, and rustling leaves—all collected by field recordist Jacob Job—lulls listeners into a near trancelike state, where they can lose themselves in the grandeur of nature. New episodes are expected to drop in early 2024. —LBK

The Taxman Hosts: Rachel Estabrook, Nathaniel Minor, and Ben Markus Seasons: One Episodes: Three Why we love it: CPR’s veteran reporters converted an economics story into a thriller with real-life stakes and a largerthan-life protagonist in Douglas Bruce, the legislator largely responsible for the Taxpayer Bill of Rights. After digging up archival audio of Bruce’s antics, The Taxman’s hosts not only give us a sense for a controversial Coloradan but they also present the backstory of a tax law that’s still causing problems today. —CW m

RUBR IC

54

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

Above the great room fireplace, a Samsung Frame TV enclosed by a gilded frame doubles as an art piece.

H P

E A L I N O W E

G R

WI T H T H E H E L P O F LO C A L D E S I G N E R C A I T L I N PA P PA S, T WO D E N V E R-B A S E D P L A S T I C S U R G E O N S C R E AT E D A P E A C E F U L MOUNTAIN RETREAT TO SHARE WITH THEIR TRAUMA PATIENTS.

BY MICHELLE JOHNSON • PHOTOGRAPHY BY KIMBERLY GAVIN • ST YLING BY NATALIE WARADY

VIEW

FINDER

Homeowners Benson Pulikkottil and Lily Daniali (right) fell for the existing French doors and arched windows in this Aspen Valley home’s great room (opposite). “Anywhere you stand, you can look out a window and off into the yonder,” Pulikkottil says.

Designer Caitlin Pappas selected a mix of modern furnishings to fill the space, including a roomy sectional with durable white upholstery. The adjacent sunken nook (below) features a porcelain-tile fireplace and extra space to gather or curl up with a book.

V

ery little surprises Benson Pulikkottil and Lily Daniali anymore. At Swedish Medical Center’s Burn and Reconstructive Center in Englewood and the LaVie Institute—Pulikkottil and Daniali’s private practice in Lone Tree—the husband-and-wife team of plastic surgeons specializes in both reconstructive and aesthetic procedures, from complex skin grafts and post-cancer breast augmentations to face-lifts and rhinoplasties. They’ve had the training to be able to help trauma patients, including an avid hunter who needed facial reconstruction after he was mauled by a grizzly bear in Wyoming, a Pueblo man whose right hand was shattered during a fireworks incident, and a Castle Rock resident who was critically burned and injured in a houseboat explosion.

“We take care of people from all walks of life, many of whom have had something traumatic happen to them,” Daniali says. For many patients, that trauma can result in mental anguish that lasts long after they’ve healed physically. “When you’ve had something terrible happen to you, it’s hard to understand how to fit that into your life outside of the hospital,” Daniali says. “Often, our patients have had their independence taken away from them or must make real changes to their lives. People become depressed and have a very hard time with that.”

Daniali and Pulikkottil, fortysomethings with two young children, have been lucky to sidestep the anguish they see in so many of their patients, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need a little help with their mental health on occasion, too. The couple’s favorite way to de-stress and lift their spirits is by spending time outdoors. “We love to fly-fish; we love to hike. We turn to the beauty of Colorado to help replenish our cups,” Daniali says. Several years ago, the notion of healing through nature sparked an idea: What if they created a serene space with direct access to the wilderness that they could open up to group retreats for burn patients?

The couple searched for a property that could act as a peaceful refuge for years before finding a nearly 4,000-square-foot home situated on about 10 acres of piñon woodlands in Aspen Valley, just outside of Carbondale. Although they knew the house would need a cosmetic overhaul, “I kind of fell in love with it when I first saw the pictures,” Daniali says.

56

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

RUBR IC

F E B R UA R T 2024 / 5280

57

GATHER

&

GRAZE

In the kitchen (right), Daniali’s favorite space in the house, a 15-foot-long island caters to large groups. A quartet of counter stools from local furniture brand Denver Modern sidle up to the countertop, which is made from the same marble used on the great room fireplace surround. Curved-back swivel chairs make for a modern counterpoint to the rustic table in the dining room (above), while a black sideboard supplies space for storing dinnerware and displaying accessories. “A pop of black grounds a room and adds some depth,” Pappas says. The antler chandelier adds a touch of traditional mountain-house style.

Built in 1979, the five-bedroom house had a quintessential mountain aesthetic. Orange-toned pine wall paneling and flooring covered nearly every square foot; a river-rock fireplace towered in the great room; and there was no shortage of antler chandeliers or trophy heads. The original design scheme was far from the light-and-airy look Daniali and Pulikkottil envisioned for their high-country sanctuary, but they coveted the home’s charming architectural details and just-remote-enough location. They closed on it in late 2021.

The couple tasked Denver designer Caitlin Pappas of Nest Out West with giving the home a modern update that still felt authentic to its setting. “We wanted it to be serene, warm, inviting, and luxurious for their patients and families, because they’re going through a rough time,” Pappas says. “We wanted it to be a treat for them.”

After making a few changes to open up the main 58

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

F E B R UA R T 2024 / 5280

59

EASY

DOES

IT

The previous homeowner had recently renovated the primary bedroom (opposite) in a way that suited the new owners’ aesthetic, making Pappas’ task list for the space relatively short.

She applied the finishing decor touches, including layered rugs and window treatments that add texture and dimension. A marble-topped vanity and brass fixtures lend a luxurious feel to the primary bathroom (right). Removing a large built-in bookcase from the guest room (below) provided enough space to add an extra queen bed. A sage-gray hue on the ceiling and wainscoting cozies up the space. The antique chest is from Denver’s Rare Finds Warehouse.

floor—including removing an obstructive partition wall and a clunky second-floor landing in the great room—Pappas painted the walls and ceiling a soothing white hue and replaced the pine flooring with wide-plank oak.

In the great room, the river-rock fireplace was swapped out in favor of a modern marble surround and a tapered facade. The existing French doors were painted black for contrast against the white walls, and Pappas chose two-tier brass chandeliers for a touch of glamour. To warm the space and provide a sense of place, Pappas left the pine beams in their original state. “We were going for a cozy modern chalet vibe,” she says. “We didn’t want to modernize it too much and make it feel like a city house; we were going for the juxtaposition of modern and rustic.”

To achieve that goal, Pappas outfitted the home with antiques and secondhand items, including the guest room’s bedside chest, sourced from Rare Finds Warehouse in Denver, and the great room’s piano and primary bedroom’s antler chandelier, both left behind by the previous owners. A combination of calming earth tones, brass accents, and tactile fabrics and furnishings provides an elegant feel throughout.

With enough space to sleep 15 people, the updated home is equipped to host a crowd—whether it be Daniali and Pulikkottil’s patients and their families, their own friends and family, or even a small wedding party or business retreat. (The home became available for rent on Airbnb in June 2023; free therapeutic retreats for patients likely won’t begin until the fall.) “The house is designed around gathering places,” Daniali says. “The game area in the great room, the fireplace, the kitchen island—it’s all about little spots where you can have intimate conversations and have fun and laugh together.”

And with its secluded setting that provides convenient access to trails, open space, the Roaring Fork River, and ski slopes, the home is a restorative escape. “When you go there,” says Pulikkottil, “your blood pressure will drop.” Says Daniali: “Our hope is that this property will be a place where people can fill their own cups with the beauty of the surroundings.” m 60

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

F E B R UA R T 2024 / 5280

61

Rick Batenburg at Big Bear Ice Arena in Denver

62

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

n now y. e-k littl ocke and ur h e t S ry, a AM , fie am LLI n WI w ous VID auc in to DA BY he r unta HY o de t AP GR Insi d of m TO l HO wor | P T

BY

NI

CH

OL

AS

HU

N

GE NE A N LI H C

DA Y,

RUBR IC

IT

’S F

RI

November 17, an hour before the puck is scheduled to drop, and a crowd has already formed outside of Breckenridge’s Stephen C. West Ice Arena.Inside,the home team’s staff rushes to finish setting up for the first game of the season.

Ice skating lessons and youth leagues take precedence at the venue, so the Breckenridge Vipers, an independent outfit that plays in Senior A, amateur hockey’s highest level of competition, couldn’t access the arena until 5:30 p.m.

That gave them only 90 minutes to hang sponsorship banners, place cameras for the YouTube livestream, and stock the bars (as the liquor license holder, the squad provides its own booze and bartenders). It feels like the first day of school after summer break: Concessions staff who haven’t seen one another in months hug and catch up while they try to figure out the Vipers’ new point-of-sale system.

As the founder, all-time leading goal scorer, captain, and director of the nonprofit club, Richard “Rick” Batenburg III is at the center of the Vipers’ controlled chaos. With his bright plaid sport coat and carefully coiffed hair, he’s easy to spot as he patrols the arena. Batenburg’s day started in the morning in Denver, where he picked up a company van with logos for Clear Cannabis—the crown jewel of Cliintel Capital, his family’s marijuana-focused venture capital firm—emblazoned across both sides. The 33-year-old’s first stop was a Costco Business Center to procure supplies for the concession stands, then he ate a ritual meal of chicken fingers for good luck before making the two-hour drive to Breckenridge.

“Home openers are always a disaster,” Batenburg says as he finally heads to the locker room. No matter what calamities are unfolding, Batenburg tries to be with his teammates 90 minutes before the game starts. Still, his administrative duties don’t really stop; he fields questions from his executive team as he laces up his skates and discusses game strategy with his father, Vipers coach Richard “Rich” Batenburg Jr. The atmosphere inside the locker room is tense. Some players are amped—“Let’s fucking go, boys!” someone yells—while others quietly stare into the middle distance. There’s uncertainty in the air. Tonight’s opponents, the Roughnecks from Rock Springs, Wyoming (population 23,000), are new to Senior A. About a month ago, at the Vipers’ fall camp, there were rumblings among the team that, being from an oil town, the Roughnecks might live up to their name and bully them.

Outside the locker room, fans are already trickling in and self-segregating by rowdiness. Families gravitate toward the left-hand bleachers while the twentysomething lifties, servers, ski school instructors, and townies head to the right. Everyone seems to know one another, and once the Vipers make their way to the rink for warmups, grade schoolers yell out players’ names. By the time the national anthem begins, roughly 400 people are in the stands with another couple of hundred either still waiting to get into the arena or in line for beer and cheap mixed drinks.

The event’s production value, much like the team itself, is both borderline professional and endearingly amateurish. The public address announcer’s baritone voice almost landed him the same gig with the Colorado Avalanche, for example, and a DJ blares crowd-hyping bangers like AC/DC’s “Thunderstruck” during stoppages in play. The man singing

64

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

the anthem once competed on The Voice. That same crooner, however, was just upstairs in the VIP room helping fix a finicky television that refused to broadcast the game’s livestream, which is being directed by a teenager with a laptop on a paint-flecked construction scaffold. One of the three concession stands is just a folding table in front of cheap coolers with broken lids, and the Zamboni driver will pull double duty as the scoreboard operator. He’ll be busy tonight.

“IF YOU WANT to know how this all started, you’ve got to go back to the Sun Valley Suns,” says Bob Carruth, owner of and former goalie for the Jackson Hole Moose, another Senior A team. The Suns were founded in 1975, when a group of five local amateur hockey players decided to organize friendly pickup games at the Idaho town’s new arena. Within a few years, the team was attracting 1,400-person crowds as well as talented players, including former college athletes and exNHLers, who wanted to continue competing at a high level. Over the next four decades, the Suns went on tours to Japan and Europe and squared off in exhibitions with the U.S., Chinese, Russian, and Japanese national teams.

As with most businesses, the Suns owe much of their success to their location. Sun Valley is home to a world-class ski resort, and the Suns have long paid to house visiting teams from Canada, the Midwest, and the Northeast so their players could enjoy a subsidized ski vacation. In exchange, Sun Valley gets matches that the team can sell tickets against. Over the decades, the business model the Suns pioneered spread to more Western towns, including McCall, Idaho; Bozeman, Montana; and Park City, Utah. Like the Suns, none of those teams pay their players, but the athletes receive plenty of other benefits. “They don’t want for anything hockeywise,” Carruth says, “and they don’t pay a dime when they travel for away games.” At home, most teams also help their players find affordable housing and jobs to pay their bills.

Batenburg was familiar with this brand of small-town hockey. After spending almost every day on the ice since he was three years old, he delayed college until he was 21 so he could play in Canada’s junior

RUBR IC

Amateur Hours Clockwise from top left: Rich and Rick Batenburg; the Vipers, in black, host the Rock Springs Roughnecks in Breckenridge; a Vipers player signs autographs for the team’s young fans

hockey leagues—a highly competitive developmental system for 16to 21-year-olds, which, at its highest levels, is considered semipro.

The Loveland native spent three years bouncing between cities such as Vancouver, British Columbia, and Campbellton, New Brunswick, whose junior team routinely sells out the local 3,500-seat arena despite playing in a town with a population of around 7,000. “In the middle of nowhere,” Batenburg says, “there’s nothing else to do but drink cheap beer and watch hockey fights.”

After aging out of junior hockey, Batenburg enrolled at Nichols College, a small, business-focused school in Dudley, Massachusetts, where he played for the Division III Bison. Like many college athletes, he faced a decision following graduation in 2014: Try to compete in his sport’s lower levels or get a real job. “I chose to sell my soul,” Batenburg says. He returned home to the Denver area and worked as a broker at Merrill for about a year before launching Cliintel Capital with his father.

Although Batenburg had grown up playing hockey in the West, he didn’t know there was anything comparable to Canada’s small-town hockey scene in the United States. Then, the same year he returned to Colorado, a friend who played in Denver’s beer leagues invited him to join a game against the Vail Yeti, then the only Senior A hockey FEBRUARY 2024 / 5280

65

LINE CHANGE

team in Colorado. Batenburg still gets goose bumps thinking about the 2,000 fans who packed Vail’s Dobson Ice Arena that night. After the match, he called the Yeti’s owner to ask if he could put together his own exhibition team for a game. “I was nervous,” Batenburg says.

“Knowing what I know now, though, of course he was like, ‘Hell, yeah!’ ” What Batenburg knows now are the economics of running a Senior A club. Teams’ lodgings on road trips are usually covered by their hosts, but other expenses, such as gas or plane tickets, aren’t. Moreover, owners don’t generate any money when they travel; the home team gets the entirety of the ticket sales—which, in reality, isn’t all that much. Typical Senior A venues hold anywhere from 500 to 2,000 fans, so even a sellout isn’t a windfall. (Vipers’ general admission tickets run $22.)

All of this boils down to one fact, says Batenburg: Clubs have to play at least two-thirds of their schedules on home ice just to break even.

So the trick is convincing other teams to visit you. When Batenburg reached out to the Yeti about scheduling a match, he was in effect giving the team free money.

After the jerseys Batenburg ordered didn’t arrive in time for the game against the Yeti, his ad hoc team donned neon beer league sweaters with the name Pink Tacos on the front. Nevertheless, Batenburg’s crew won in overtime. “It was a heck of a way to kick-start a rivalry,” 66

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

Flow State

Clockwise from top left: the Vipers and the Roughnecks hit the ice (after hitting each other); Rick Batenburg in the Vipers’ locker room; a referee with epic “flow”— hockey parlance for a majestic mullet

LI

RUBR IC

NE

CH

and [they would] all be girlfriends and wives and moms and dads.”

It’s not surprising, then, that Senior A has witnessed its own boom in recent years. For decades, the Suns were the only such squad in the West; they were later joined by the Jackson Hole Moose in 1997. But since 2010, at least a dozen clubs, including the Yeti in 2013, have formed across Colorado, Utah, Montana, Wyoming, Idaho, Nevada, and California. As the number of teams has increased, the budgets of many clubs have grown, too, as owners seek to deliver a better product and, thus, sell more tickets. The Vipers’ current annual operating budget, for example, is around $225,000, which is about how much they make yearly in ticket sales, concessions, and sponsorships from local companies such as the Ramada in Frisco and Vail-Summit Orthopaedics and Neurosurgery. Roughly $100,000 of that, however, comes in the form of trade, such as beer from New Belgium Brewing to stock concessions in exchange for the company’s logo appearing on the Vipers’ jerseys.

The increase in Senior A teams in the region has another benefit: more local competition. Instead of having to exclusively ship in opponents from as far away as New York City, the Suns now fill out at least a portion of their schedule with squads from just a state or two away. The Vipers’ 22-game schedule this season features just two opponents from outside the West: the New York City fire and police department hockey clubs. This not only lessens the financial burden of playing away games, but it also fosters rivalries because, as the saying goes, proximity breeds contempt. “In every mountain town, just like everywhere else, the people are passionate about where they live,” says Forte, whose team will play the Vipers six times this season. “So Breckenridge is some of our biggest games all year. When we go to Breck, their house is always packed. It’s fun. It’s electric, and then the same thing happens when they come here.”

Garret Bailey, a do-it-all forward and starter for the Vipers, remembers the team’s early years, when sometimes only a dozen or so fans would pay to watch them play. The Michigan native didn’t even know Senior A squads existed until after he moved to Breckenridge in 2017 and was scouted by the Vipers’ then general manager in a Summit County men’s league. During his time with the club, Bailey has improved from a midlevel player on the team to one of the best Senior A performers in the West. “To see players in the twilight of their careers not just keep playing but develop and get better is so cool,” Batenburg says.

Currently, Bailey works on the bottling line at Breckenridge Distillery, but he’s had a variety of jobs around the region, including delivering bottled oxygen to tourists suffering from elevation sickness—the same tourists who are slowly pushing locals like him out. In fact, after his rental house was sold, Bailey had to move out of Breckenridge proper to the nearby town of Blue River. He’ll likely never be able to afford to own a home in Summit County, he says, but at least he gets to play hockey in front of hundreds of screaming fans. “That’s this life, I guess,” Bailey says. “I don’t know what I would be doing if I hadn’t found this team.”

Bailey isn’t the only player who has been affected by the housing crisis in mountain towns. In fact, Carruth worries that within a decade, Jackson Hole’s unaffordability may mean that the twenty- and thirtysomething players that he needs to field a competitive team may no longer be able to live there. “I’m 60, so I’ll be done by then,” Carruth says, “but we have a great program here. I want to see it survive.”

Both Carruth and Batenburg have seen their respective towns create additional affordable employee housing, but the CONTINUED ON PAGE 78

AN GE

Batenburg says. Almost immediately, he started looking for an arena that could host a permanent team, one he would both manage and play for. “I knew I needed a contained market,” he says. “You don’t want to compete with the Avalanche for attention.” So despite living in Denver, he searched for a small-town facility with around a 1,000-person capacity. “Even if we had a rink that held 4,000 people, it would be too big. It would feel empty,” he says. “Breckenridge had the right kind of mix of things, and having played in so many little towns across Canada, I knew what I was looking for.”

Only 37 people turned up to watch the Vipers’ first game in 2015.

“For years, it was a good place to light money on fire,” says Batenburg, who estimates it costs between $14,000 and $18,000 to host a two-game weekend series. Much of the nonprofit team’s early funding came from Batenburg and his family’s business ventures through sponsorships; it would take nearly four years for the team to ink its first outside backing, a $10,000 check from Kaiser Permanente. “You have to have three years of runway or you’re not going to make it,” Batenburg says, because it takes that long to get buy-in from fans, sponsors, and the arena managers who decide who receives the prime time slots.

For their first few seasons, the Vipers’ home games started at 10 p.m.

IN 1992, A BUNCH OF (fictional) kids from the wrong side of Minneapolis came together under the leadership of disgraced attorney Gordon Bombay to improbably win their district’s Pee Wee hockey championship. The Mighty Ducks’ box office success proved indicative of things to come for the (nonfictional) sport of hockey during the following decade, when the NHL added seven expansion franchises, including the then Disney-owned Anaheim Mighty Ducks, and saw its revenue triple. With new teams spreading across the country, more players were inspired to take up the game: USA Hockey, the sport’s governing body, reports its membership grew 143 percent from 1990 to 2010. In Colorado, which landed the relocated Avalanche in 1995, membership skyrocketed 250 percent over the same period.

By the 2010s, the children who had first donned skates and picked up sticks during the ’90s boom hit their mid-20s. Like Batenburg, many had spent their adolescences and early adulthoods playing competitive club and college hockey. Then, suddenly, they found themselves without an outlet. “I think the culture in hockey is something that’s super special,” says Yeti owner Kyle Forte. “Just as much as the competition that players don’t want to give up, it’s that sense of family and community that you get when you’re part of a team.” Like in other sports, there are adult leagues hockey players can join, but they don’t offer the atmosphere of small-town Senior A in the West, which is often, literally, the only game in town. “There’s nothing else to do,” Carruth says. “If you try to do this in Denver, you’d have 30 people show up,

FEBRUARY 2024 / 5280

67

Dining Guide Indicates inclusion in 5280’s 2023 list of Denver’s best restaurants. These selections are at the discretion of 5280 editors and are subject to change. $$$$

LoDo / Steak House This unfussy chophouse by the team behind Forget Me Not and Tap and Burger features perfectly seared steaks, hearty sides, and draft cocktails. Never pass up the beef tartare katsu sando and the chickpea fries to start your meal. Reservations accepted. 1600 15th St., 303-623-0534. Dinner

$$

Lakewood / African Explore dishes from across Africa at this inviting restaurant run by the Osei-Fordwuo family. Peanut soups, samosas, and jollof rice are just some of the crave-worthy options you’ll order again and again. Reservations accepted. 955 S. Kipling Parkway, Lakewood, 303-985-4497. Lunch, Dinner AJ’S PIT BAR-B-Q

$$

Overland / Barbecue This wood-fired, Texas-style barbecue joint welcomes the public to savor lipsmacking dishes such as tender beef brisket, house-cured and smoked pastrami, pit beans, and farm slaw. Reservations not accepted. 2180 S. Delaware St., 720-815-5571. Lunch, Dinner ANNETTE

$$$

Aurora / American James Beard Award–winning chef Caroline Glover’s Annette delivers a lineup of seasonal salads, pastas, wood-fired proteins, and other comforting bites in a modern, inviting space. Don’t skip dessert, particularly if pecan pie is on the menu. Reservations accepted. 2501 Dallas St., Suite 108, Aurora, 720-710-9975. Dinner BANH & BUTTER BAKERY CAFE

Aurora / French Thoa Nguyen crafts French pastries inspired by her Vietnamese heritage at this East Colfax cafe. Go for the dazzling crêpe cakes, each made with 25 to 30 layers. Reservations not accepted. 9935 E. Colfax Ave., Aurora, 720-513-9313. Breakfast, Lunch BLACKBELLY

$

$$$

Boulder / American Chef Hosea Rosenberg’s carnivore-friendly menu focuses on charcuterie, small plates, and daily butcher specials. Check out the adjacent butcher shop and market, which serves breakfast and lunch and is stocked with local retail goods. Reservations accepted. 1606 Conestoga St., Boulder, 303-247-1000. Dinner 68

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

under $15 $16 to $20 $21 to $30 $31 and higher

Chef Lydie Lovett (of Chicken Rebel fame) is making waves outside of the poultry game with four-month-old Wilde, a breakfast and lunch eatery inspired by the flavors of coastal California. The San Diego native transformed the LoHi location of her onetime chicken sandwich shop (which still operates at a Westminster outpost) into a sunny, turquoiseaccented restaurant where customers can surf through a menu of fruity cocktails and filling entrées. Pair the orangescented Endless Summer gin drink with an order of boardwalk-ready fish tacos or the Baja breakfast burrito that, per San Diego tradition, comes packed with carne asada, guacamole, and french fries. $$$$

BRUTØ

LoDo / International This Michelin-starred restaurant highlights heritage grains and house ferments in a Latin-influenced, omakase-style tasting menu. Tack on the cocktail or nonalcoholic beverage pairing to make the experience even more special. Reservations accepted.

1801 Blake St., 720-325-2195. Dinner

$$

CANTINA LOCA

LoHi / Mexican Chef Dana Rodriguez’s welcoming LoHi taqueria invites diners to connect over plates of tacos, shareable entrées, and drinks infused with the Chihuahua, Mexico–born matriarch’s own line of agave spirits, Doña Loca. Order the molcajete. Reservations accepted. 2890 Zuni St., 303-284-6738. Dinner COMAL HERITAGE FOOD INCUBATOR

$

RiNo / International Immigrant and refugee women develop the skills to operate their own food businesses by serving up renditions of their family recipes at this indoor-outdoor restaurant.

Try the pupusas or the plato caribe, fried fish with tostones and coleslaw. Reservations not accepted.

1950 35th St., 303-292-0770. Breakfast, Lunch

DAUGHTER THAI KITCHEN & BAR

$$$

LoHi / Thai This date-night-ready Thai restaurant from Ounjit Hardacre serves beautifully plated dishes and inventive cocktails with an elegant ambience to match. The menu features tried-andtrue favorites such as pad thai and massaman curry alongside a rotating lineup of rare-inDenver specialties. Reservations accepted. 1700 Platte St., Suite 140, 720-667-4652. Lunch, Dinner DEATH & CO DENVER

$$$

EDGEWATER PUBLIC MARKET

$$

RiNo / Contemporary The famed New York City bar offers top-notch cocktail service and an inventive menu in the lobby of the Ramble Hotel.

Try the smoked wild mushrooms. Reservations not accepted. 1280 25th St., 720-330-2660.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Edgewater / International Satisfy your cravings for everything from wild game sandwiches to Ethiopian fare at this eclectic collective of nearly two dozen food stalls and boutiques. Tenants include Konjo Ethiopian, Lucky Bird, Lazo Empanadas, and more. 5505 W. 20th Ave., Edgewater, 720-749-2239. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

WANT MORE DINING OPTIONS? Visit our online listings at 5280.com/restaurants.

Sarah Banks

Indicates a restaurant featured in 5280 for the first time (though not necessarily a restaurant that has just opened).

AFRICAN GRILL & BAR

$ $$ $$$ $$$$

SoCal Comes To LoHi

SYMBOL KEY

A5 STEAKHOUSE

PRICE KEY

Average Entrée

DINING GUIDE $$

EL JEFE

Sunnyside / Mexican Farm-to-table Mexican fare will lure you to this welcoming Sunnyside haunt.

Pair a house margarita with the four-cheese queso dip, and don’t miss the mushroom tacos or the grilled Spanish octopus. Reservations accepted.

2450 W. 44th Ave., 720-389-7615. Dinner, Brunch

FAMOUS ORIGINAL J’S PIZZA

Five Points / Pizza Joshua Pollack’s New York– style and rectangular “grandma” pies are totally customizable and available by the slice. Try the meat lovers. Reservations not accepted. 715 E. 26th Ave., 720-420-9102. Lunch, Dinner

$$

$$

FOX AND THE HEN

LoHi / American This sunny brunch eatery brightens up any morning. The animal-style hash brown smothered in American cheese and special sauce (an homage to In-N-Out) is a must-order, but any of the elevated toasts or egg dishes are a smart way to start your day. Reservations not accepted.

2257 W. 32nd Ave., 303-862-6795. Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch FRASCA FOOD AND WINE

$$$$

Boulder / Italian The elegant cuisine always wows at Frasca, an ode to the cuisine of Friuli–Venezia Giulia in northeastern Italy from master sommelier Bobby

Stuckey and chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson.

Splurge on executive chef Ian Palazzola’s ninecourse Friulano menu. Reservations accepted.

1738 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-442-6966. Dinner THE GINGER PIG

$$

GQUE BBQ

$$

HIRA CAFE & PATISSERIE

$

HOP ALLEY

$$

IL POSTO

$$$$

Berkeley / Asian Chef-owner Natascha Hess serves Asian-inspired street food with playful twists at this casual spot. The lamb stir-fry and the Hong Kong French toast are must-order dishes. Also try the takeout-only Boulder location. Reservations not accepted. 4262 Lowell Blvd., 720-324-8416. Dinner

Westminster / Barbecue This fast-casual joint serves award-winning hickory-smoked pork, brisket, chicken wings, ribs, and more. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 5160 W. 120th Ave., Suite K, Westminster, 303-379-9205.

Lunch, Dinner

Aurora / Ethiopian Pastry chef and owner Hiwot Solomon pairs her from-scratch desserts and Ethiopian breakfast plates with house-roasted, single-origin coffee at this cheery cafe. Reservations not accepted. 10782 E. Iliff Ave., Aurora, 720-949-1703. Breakfast, Lunch RiNo / Chinese From Tommy Lee of Uncle, this neighborhood hangout serves dishes rooted in Chinese tradition with a touch of distinctive flair. Reservations accepted. 3500 Larimer St., 720-379-8340. Dinner RiNo / Italian Sample Andrea Frizzi’s imaginative Italian cuisine in a sleek, metropolitan environment. Don’t miss the seasonal risotto or the pineapple zeppole (Italian doughnut holes). Reservations accepted. 2601 Larimer St., 303-394-0100. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

INDIA’S RESTAURANT

$$

JAX FISH HOUSE & OYSTER BAR

$$$

KAOS PIZZERIA

$$

KATSU RAMEN

$$

Hampden / Indian This spot serves traditional fare, including flavorful dishes like tandoori chicken.

Be sure to try the cinnamon bread pudding.

Reservations accepted. 8921 E. Hampden Ave., 303-755-4284. Lunch, Dinner

LoDo / Seafood Enjoy sustainable seafood in an upbeat atmosphere. Specialties include the raw oyster bar and seasonally composed plates. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 1539 17th St., 303-292-5767. Dinner

EXHIBITION NOW OPEN Gratis con la entrada al Museo

Exibición Ya Disponible

Platt Park / Pizza A wood-fired oven, gourmet ingredients, and wine to-go make this a perfect pizzeria for dine-in or delivery. If the weather’s nice, eat outside in the spacious garden area.

Reservations accepted. 1439 S. Pearl St, 303-7335267. Lunch, Dinner

Aurora / Japanese Satisfy your cravings with one of the traditional styles offered at this cozy spot.

Get the most out of your dollar with a combo meal. Reservations not accepted. 1930 S. Havana St., Aurora, 303-751-2222. Lunch, Dinner

70

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

Colorado Garden & Home Show Feb. 24 – Mar. 3

Colorado Convention Center • Find the products and companies to get your home improvement projects done!

• Experience the Entry Garden and see 7 more gardens bursting with

• Get ideas, inspiration and

advice for your home from more than 500+ companies and take advantage of show-only specials!

SPONSORS

Insured by NCUA

PRESENTED BY

Insured by NCUA

HOURS & PRICING: Saturdays, Feb. 24 & Mar. 2 10 am–6 pm Sundays, Feb. 25 & Mar. 3 10 am–5 pm *Mon., Feb. 26 – Fri., Mar. 1 Noon–6 pm $15 adults and $12 seniors *All Weekdays are 2-for-1 Admission!

Kids 12 and under are FREE!

PURCHASE ADVANCE TICKETS AT: ColoradoGardenFoundation.org

DINING GUIDE LA DIABLA POZOLE Y MEZCAL

Ballpark / Mexican This lively eatery from James Beard Award finalist Jose Avila serves up comforting pozole and other traditional Mexican fare at affordable prices. Don’t miss the weekend brunch for chilaquiles, huaraches, and a killer house michelada. Reservations not accepted. 2233 Larimer St., 720-519-1060.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch LUCINA EATERY & BAR

$

$$$

South Park Hill / Latin American Bold flavors from Latin America, the Caribbean, and coastal Spain tantalize at this lively restaurant. Try the mofongo, a plantain mash with pork belly chicharrón, or the two-person paella with rotating toppings only served on Fridays and Saturdays.

Reservations accepted. 2245 Kearney St., Suite 101, 720-814-1053. Dinner MAJOR TOM

$$$$

RiNo / American This lounge from the team behind Beckon offers a Champagne-centric drink menu and a delectable lineup of shareable bites.

Throw back some oysters on the beautiful patio space. Reservations accepted. 2845 Larimer St., 303-848-9777. Dinner, Brunch MARIGOLD

$$$

Lyons / European This small, light-filled restaurant serves seasonally driven French- and Italian-influenced fare. The pink-peppercornlaced farinata (chickpea pancake) is a delicious mainstay of the frequently changing menu; the

72

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

amaro-centric cocktail program is also delightful.

Reservations accepted. 405 Main St., Suite B, Lyons, 303-823-2333. Dinner MISFIT SNACKBAR

$$

City Park / Contemporary You’ll never be bored by the imaginative, flavor-packed offerings from chef-owner Bo Porytko at this eclectic concept housed inside Middleman cocktail bar. Start with the chips and dip. Reservations not accepted.

3401 E. Colfax Ave., 303-353-4207. Dinner NI TUYO

$$$

Belcaro / Mexican Visit this Bonnie Brae eatery for piping-hot molcajetes of meats and veggies stewing in chile sauce. Or grab a seat at the bar for a tasty margarita. Reservations not accepted.

730 S. University Blvd., 303-282-8896. Dinner NOISETTE RESTAURANT & BAKERY

$$$

LoHi / French Chefs Tim and Lillian Lu serve elegant renditions of bourgeoisie-style specialties (French home-cooked comforts) in a romantic, light-drenched space. Tear into the perfectly crisp baguette to set the Parisian scene for your dining experience. Reservations accepted. 3254 Navajo St., Suite 100, 720-769-8103. Dinner, Brunch OSAKA RAMEN

$$

RiNo / Japanese Jeff Osaka’s modern ramen shop features original noodle soups, bento boxes, and creative small plates. Try the mochi doughnuts.

Reservations not accepted. 2611 Walnut St., 303-955-7938. Lunch, Dinner

PHO 95

$$

THE PIG & THE SPROUT

$$

QUIERO AREPAS

$

Mar Lee / Vietnamese Authentic Vietnamese cuisine is served up every day at this noodle house.

Try your pho in any of the 22 different ways that are offered. Also try the Centennial location.

Reservations not accepted. 1401 S. Federal Blvd., 303-936-3322. Lunch, Dinner LoDo / American Tucked behind Union Station, this dichotomous eatery offers something for everyone. Order the brisket poutine from the Pig side of the menu, or opt for lighter fare, such as a veggie stir-fry, from the Sprout side. Reservations accepted. 1900 Chestnut Place, 720-535-9719.

Lunch, Dinner, Brunch Platt Park / Latin American The entirely glutenfree menu at this Platt Park eatery offers delicious selections like the pollo guisado arepa, a flatbread stuffed with shredded chicken, black beans, and cheese. Also check out the LoHi location. Reservations not accepted. 1859 S. Pearl St., 720-432-4205. Lunch, Dinner

RESTAURANT OLIVIA

$$$$

Washington Park / Italian This cozy yet modern neighborhood spot from chef Ty Leon specializes in fresh pastas, house-baked focaccia, and Italian classics like porchetta and risotto. The ravioli and other stuffed pastas are must-orders.

Reservations accepted. 290 S. Downing St., 303-999-0395. Dinner

ADVERTISEMENT

AN AMERICAN BAR W I T H A F O C U S O N 19T H C E N T U RY C O C K TA I L S. WWW.UNIONLODGE1.COM • 1543 Champa Street, Denver, CO 80202

Union Lodge No.1 stands as a tribute to the American bars of the late 19th century. Step through our doors to celebrate the art of specialty cocktails and discover the libations reminiscent of the Pre-Prohibition era. Our bartenders apply their passion and years of experience toward crafting specialty cocktails while transporting you to a time before Prohibition, where the creativity of bartenders flourished. We are proud to bring the specialty cocktail movement back to its origin.

I N F O R M A L, V I N TA G E LO C A L E S E R V I N G U P D AT E D R E G I O N A L & A M E R I C A N C O M F O RT FA R E P L U S A RT I S A N A L C O C K TA I L S. WWW.ARVADATAVERN.COM • 5707 Olde Wadsworth Boulevard, Arvada, CO 80002

The legacy of the Arvada Tavern starts with the end of prohibition—a new era had started in the United States. On April 7, 1933, the town of Arvada issued their first Tavern license to the owner of the Arvada Tavern, Adrian Kline. Today, we emphasize the craft side of bartending, making as many syrups, bitters, and tonics from scratch and specializing in pre-Prohibition style cocktails that put America into the spotlight before 1920.

A C O N T E M P O R A RY N E I G H B O R H O O D C O C K TA I L B A R. WWW.THETATARIAN.COM • 4024 Tennyson Street, Denver, CO 80212

The Tatarian is inspired by Berkeley’s endearing history. Just before the turn of the century, each new land owner who bought property in the neighborhood would receive a shade tree as a gift from the city. In the years to follow, the Maple tree (specifically the Tatarian variety) was the one that thrived and grew the deepest roots on Berkeley soil, despite not even being native to the state of Colorado.

C O C K TA I L-F O R WA R D F R E N C H R U S T I C C O M I N G S O O N T O D E N V E R’S S O B O N E I G H B O R H O O D. WWW.LAFORETDENVER.COM • 38 S Broadway, Denver, CO 80209

La Forêt is envisioned as a beverage forward social dining haven, embracing the concept of “Alpine Forage Rustic”. Here, the past and the present merge seamlessly creating a relevant dining and beverage experience. Traditional yet progressive wines, highlighting natural and lo-fi varieties, take their place alongside hand-crafted cocktails and elusive spirits that are a testament to the art of the modern craft bartending movement.

COMING SOON

DINING GUIDE SAFTA

$$$$

RiNo / Mediterranean At Safta, acclaimed chef Alon Shaya and his team serve modern Israeli fare.

Crave-worthy specialties include hummus, labneh, and other dips accompanied by wood-oven pita and crispy Persian rice with cherries and sunflower seeds. Also check out the weekend brunch buffet.

Reservations accepted. 3330 Brighton Blvd., Suite 201, 720-408-2444. Dinner, Brunch SAP SUA

$$$

Congress Park / Vietnamese This smart eatery from husband-and-wife duo Ni and Anna Nguyen finds its culinary footing in Vietnamese flavors.

Herbaceous offerings like chrysanthemum green salad and culantro-capped tomato toast are favorites of the menu, as are seafood plates like the hamachi collar with a coconut caramel glaze.

Reservations accepted. 2550 E. Colfax Ave., 303-736-2303. Dinner

$$

SONNY’S MEDITERRANEAN

Highland / Mediterranean The herbaceous falafel and house-roasted chicken at this casual Mediterranean joint are top-notch. Try either in a basil-chimichurri-dressed hummus bowl or a pita sandwich stuffed with french fries and feta.

Reservations not accepted. 2622 W. 32nd Ave., 720-479-8813. Lunch, Dinner SPUNTINO

$$$$

Highland / Italian Enjoy the eclectic and locally sourced menu at this Italian-inspired, husbandand-wife-owned spot. Go for any of the dishes

with Southern Indian influences—a product of chef Cindhura Reddy’s heritage—like malai kofta gnocchi. Don’t miss the house-made gelatos for dessert. Reservations accepted. 2639 W. 32nd Ave., 303-433-0949. Dinner STONE CELLAR BISTRO

TOFU STORY

$$$

Arvada / Contemporary Visit this farm-to-table spot in Olde Town Arvada for beautifully presented dishes made with local produce by chefs Jordan Alley and Brandon Kerr. Don’t miss the foie gras parfait or the hot honey fried chicken. Reservations accepted. 7605 Grandview Ave., Arvada, 720-630-7908. Dinner SUNDAY VINYL

TUPELO HONEY SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR $$$

$$$

LoDo / Southern Nosh on reimagined versions of down-home dishes, such as the signature honey-dusted fried chicken. Reservations accepted. 1650 Wewatta St., 720-274-0650.

Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

$

Curtis Park / Japanese This bustling eatery from James Beard Award–winning chef Tyson Cole delivers artful and inventive Japanese small plates and sushi made with some of the freshest fish in town. Visit for the daily happy hour, when nigiri and temaki are less than $10.

Reservations accepted. 2500 Lawrence St., 303-444-1922. Dinner

LoDo / European This Union Station restaurant offers warm hospitality, exquisite cuisine, and an extensive wine list, all to the soundtrack of a vinyl-only playlist. Order the duck-liverstuffed gougères (French cheese puffs) and something from the indulgent selection of sweet treats. Reservations accepted. 1803 16th St., 720-738-1803. Dinner TOCABE, AN AMERICAN INDIAN EATERY

Berkeley / American Feast on Indigenous fare such as fry bread tacos made with ingredients sourced from Native producers at this fastcasual spot. The company also has an online marketplace for bison and pantry goods and donates prepared meals to tribal communities.

Reservations not accepted. 3536 W. 44th Ave., 720-524-8282. Lunch, Dinner

UCHI DENVER

UNCLE

SPACE HAS NEVER BEEN SO CLOSE FEB 3 – MAY 5 • STANLEY MARKETPLACE

denvercenter.org/space

303.893.4100 | Groups 10+ 303.446.4829 Infinity Experiences, Felix & Paul Studios and PHI Studio, in association with DCPA Off-Center

ADDITIONAL SUPPORT

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

$$$$

$$

Speer / Asian This reliable Pan Asian noodle house from chef-owner Tommy Lee has a revolving menu of steamed buns, small plates, rice and curry bowls, and ramen. Also try the Highland location. Reservations not accepted.

95 S. Pennsylvania St., 720-638-1859. Dinner

AN IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCE

74

$$

Aurora / Korean House-made tofu is the main draw at this airy Korean eatery from chefrestaurateur J.W. Lee. Order the spicy seafood soondubu stew featuring silken tofu with the individual-size, pressure-cooked rice that’s prepared tableside. Reservations not accepted.

2060 S. Havana St., Aurora, 303-954-9372.

Lunch, Dinner

5280 M A G A Z IN E P ROM OT ION

SCENE PROMOTIONS | EVENTS | SPONSORSHIPS

FEB 10

FEB 22

FEB 24, 27

Wagner’s The Flying Loveland Sweetheart Joy on Tap Children’s Museum of Denver at Marsico Campus Dutchman Festival 7:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.

4th Street, Downtown Loveland

Celebrate all things LOVE in the Sweetheart City. Bring the family or your sweetheart and join us in downtown Loveland as we enjoy live ice sculpting demonstrations, live music, art installations, local beers, interactive activities and more!

Information and tickets at visitloveland.com/sweetheartfestival.

FEB 24 - MAR 3 Colorado Garden & Home Show Colorado Convention Center The show features more than 500 home improvement companies introducing new technologies and products in landscaping, gardening, energy-efficient heating and cooling, window treatments, siding, flooring, lighting, patio furniture, gutters, sound systems, storage systems, greenhouses, decks, spas and more.

Release your inner child at the Children’s Museum’s adults-only extravaganza! Discover beers from local breweries, snack on tasty bites, and best of all, enjoy an evening of play in our exhibits. Come be a kid again! Tickets are just $55.

Information and tickets at mychildsmuseum.org.

The Ellie Caulkins Opera House February 24 & 27, March 1 & 3

This winter, Opera Colorado presents a new production of Wagner’s supernatural drama.

A legendary ghost ship’s captain, cursed to roam the seas, discovers newfound hope in the idealistic Senta. Can her loyalty shatter his lonely curse?

Information and tickets at operacolorado.org.

FEB 27

MAR 1

5280 Thought Forum Vote for Denver’s Jake Jabs Event Center at University of Best Stuff !

Colorado Denver | 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.

Hosted by CU Denver, 5280 Thought Forum will bring together the Centennial State’s top minds for thoughtful discussions on the biotech industry, the green economy, and the importance of small businesses.

Information and RSVP at 5280scene.com/5280-thought-forum.

Now through March 1

5280 Top of the Town Reader’s Choice ballot is now live! We want to know your picks for the best places to dine, shop, and play in and around our wonderful city. Show your favorite establishments some love and vote now!

Vote now at 5280scene.com.

Information and tickets at coloradogardenfoundation.org.

@5280SCENE | 5280SCENE.COM

DINING GUIDE URBAN VILLAGE GRILL

$$$

Lone Tree / Indian Chef Charles Mani serves classic and contemporary dishes from regions across India at this eatery inside Park Meadows Mall.

Order the chef’s tasting menu, a multicourse feast featuring Urban cauliflower, butter chicken, and other popular dishes. Reservations accepted.

8505 Park Meadows Center Drive, Suite 2184A, Lone Tree, 720-536-8565. Lunch, Dinner US THAI CAFE

$

Edgewater / Thai Classic, fresh ingredients, spicy dishes, and a chef straight from Thailand make for an authentic, if mouth-tingling, dining experience. Try the green curry. Reservations accepted. 5228 W. 25th Ave., Edgewater, 303-233-3345. Lunch, Dinner

VIEWHOUSE

$$

Ballpark / American This is your place to catch the game and enjoy a variety of bar bites, from burgers and tacos to steak. Watch your favorite team while enjoying a draft beer and a plate of nachos. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 2015 Market St., 720-878-2015.

Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

VITAL ROOT

$$

Berkeley / American Justin Cucci’s fourth eatery focuses on quick, healthy food. Grab a seat in the airy space and nosh on creative, wholesome fare such as cashew “queso” dip or a sunflower risotto.

Reservations not accepted. 3915 Tennyson St., 303-474-4131. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

76

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

WELLNESS SUSHI

$$

WHITTIER CAFE

$

Congress Park / Japanese Vegan sushi stars at this fast-casual joint by husband-and-wife duo Steven and Phoebe Lee. Don’t miss hot options like the soupless ramen. Reservations not accepted. 2504 E. Colfax Ave., 720-306-4989.

Lunch, Dinner

Whittier / Cafe This espresso bar, which supports social-justice-related causes, serves coffee, beer, and wine sourced from various African nations and a small menu of pastries, breakfast burritos, panini, and more. Reservations not accepted. 1710 E. 25th Ave., 720-550-7440.

Breakfast, Lunch WILDE

LoHi / American This cheery brunch spot in LoHi offers a menu of refreshing cocktails and filling SoCal-inspired fare. Try the grapefruitinfused Afternoon Delight cocktail with a crab cake Benedict on a split buttermilk biscuit.

Reservations not accepted. 3618 Tejon St. Breakfast, Lunch XICAMITI LA TAQUERÍA

$$

$$

Golden / Mexican This long-standing joint serves cooked-to-order burritos, tacos, quesadillas, and alambres (skillet dishes) made with recipes drawing from Walter Meza’s childhood in Mexico. Reservations not accepted.

715 Washington Ave., Golden, 303-215-3436.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

YAHYA’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL & PASTRIES $$

City Park West / Mediterranean This family-run restaurant serves silky hummus, a variety of excellent grilled kebabs, and from-scratch sweets.

Try the beef koobideh. Reservations accepted.

2207 E. Colfax Ave., 720-532-8746. Lunch, Dinner

YUMCHA

$$

ZOCALITO LATIN BISTRO

$$$

ZORBA’S

$$

LoDo / Asian From restaurateur Lon Symensma of ChoLon and Bistro LeRoux comes a dim sum house and noodle bar serving creative Asianinspired bites. Reservations accepted. 1520 16th Street Mall, 720-638-8179. Lunch, Dinner

Downtown / Mexican Formerly located in Aspen, chef/owner Michael Beary’s upscale Oaxacan eatery found a home in the heart of Denver.

Try the pork tenderloin with red mole sauce.

Reservations accepted. 999 18th St., Suite 107, 720-923-5965. Dinner Congress Park / Greek Zorba’s has served American and Greek fare—burgers, salads, sandwiches, and classic breakfast dishes—in Congress Park since 1979. Reservations not accepted. 2626 E. 12th Ave., 303-321-0091. Breakfast, Dinner, Lunch

 These listings are in no way related to advertising in 5280. If you find that a restaurant differs significantly from the information in its listing or your favorite restaurant is missing from the Dining Guide, please let us know. Write us at 5280 Publishing, Inc., 1675 Larimer St., Suite 675, Denver, CO 80202 or dining@5280.com.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Adventure Quest™ with Renaissance Adventures

Summer at Kent Denver School summer@kentdenver.org kentdenver.org/summer24 With over 100 innovative camps for Arts, Athletics, Academics and our Tiny Farm, Summer at Kent Denver is a home for children ages 4-18 to learn and have FUN!

Air & Space Summer Camp Nedra Hall | (303) 360-5360 x125 wingsmuseum.org/camp Take off for a lot of fun this summer at Wings Over the Rockies Air & Space Summer Camp!

Your camper will be immersed in a week-long aerospace experience.

Denver Academy Summer Program (303) 777-5870 x284 denveracademy.org/summer

renaissanceadventures.com | (303) 786-9216

20

24

Colorado Watersports Summer Camps info@coloradowatersports.com coloradowatersports.com

Dawson Summer Camps dawsonschool.org/summercamps summercamps@dawsonschool.org

Our camps include sailing, paddle boarding, kayaking, and more. Campers will get to try a little bit of everything. Our sailing, paddle, and combo camps ensure there is a camp for everyone.

Week-long day camps for ages 5-15 in Lafayette, CO, June 3 - July 26. M-F 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., with lunch provided. More than 100 camps to choose from in sports, art, science & tech, and more, plus cool off in the pool daily!

Denver Equestrians Riding School

Dream Big Summer Camps

(303) 973-0077 | denverequestrians.com

Mary Stein | (303) 377-1805 dreambigdaycamp.com

Experience the Denver Academy difference!

Academic programs for students with varied learning profiles, including those with dyslexia & ADHD. Day camps and recreational classes offered. Grades 1-12. (June 10-July 3)

DERS Summer Horse Camp program offers in-depth education for kids, tweens & teens!

Campers join us for horesback riding lessons each day, hands-on grooming, tacking, unmounted equine education, horse care & horse related art projects.

Every Child Reading – Super Star Summer Camp

International School of Denver Summer Programs

Denver/Littleton Lakewood & Vail Locations

(303) 340-3647 | isdenver.org/summer

We build literacy, writing and math skills, selfesteem, and confidence for students who want or need summer support or have dyslexia. This is a time for them to thrive and learn.

Every week at the International School of Denver, your child will explore the world while moving their body, expanding their mind, developing new skills, and forming new friendships.

EveryChildReading.org | (720) 235-5935

Join a mythic quest! Campers read maps, solve mysteries & riddles, overcome dynamic challenges, & battle using foam swords.

Designed to develop teamwork, critical thinking, ethical reasoning, & communication.

9 weeks of unforgettable fun! Individual/team sports, performing arts, arts/crafts, special event days, theme days and Olympics. We have a climbing wall, practice yoga and cook while mindful of building character every day.

St. Mary’s Academy stmarys.academy/summer

Embark on a thrilling summer at St. Mary’s Academy! Choose from full-day Colorado adventures or half-day camps. Dive into sports, arts, academics, and outdoor pursuits for an unforgettable experience!

2024 February Camp Guide 77

LINE CHANGE

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 67

problem only seems to be getting worse.

Either way, Carruth says clubs such as the Vipers and the Reno Ice Raiders are in a better position than teams in more remote mountain towns for one reason: They have a nearby metropolis from which they can source new players.

RICK BATENBURG DIDN’T like what he saw. It was a month before opening night against the Roughnecks, and the Vipers were hosting fall camp in Breckenridge. About 30 players—some Vipers vets, others hopefuls trying to skate their ways onto the squad—were running through drills.

Four groups passed pucks among themselves, with one player ultimately sending a shot toward the waiting goalie. Or at least that’s how it was supposed to go. The Vipers prefer precise passes and puck control to a

crash-and-bash style of play, but things had been so sloppy that morning that Batenburg finally stopped play mid-drill. He skated to center ice and ran the players through the exercise again, cracking his stick against the ice and uttering expletives to underscore what he wanted to see. When practice resumed, the passes were crisper, faster.

“If you don’t implement those expectations from the jump, you’re never going to get there,” Batenburg says. Despite not paying his players, Batenburg expects them to behave like professionals, including attending five to six practices each week and arriving two hours before games, a challenge for the Denverbased players who often have to sneak out of work early and battle Friday ski traffic to make it to Breckenridge on time. According to Bailey, some players don’t want to join the team because of Batenburg’s high expectations and occasionally overbearing personality.

“Some people just can’t take being told what to do,” he says. “Sometimes they feel that it’s an attack on them.”

The Batenburgs are no strangers to conflict, though. Cliintel Capital, the venture capital firm of which Rich is CEO and Rick is chief investment officer, boasts a $125 million

portfolio that includes Bonsai Cultivation, a recreational cannabis wholesaler; Intigo, a 3D-printing startup; and Pharmajet, a needlefree pharmaceutical delivery system. But its biggest brand is Clear Cannabis, a THC- and CBD-concentrates producer. The Batenburgs previously owned Clear Cannabis with Justin Pentelute, a partner in the Batenburgs’ Batmann Consulting, Clear’s former parent company. In February 2019, the Batenburgs agreed to buy Pentelute out, but later that year, he sued Rich and some of the Batenburgs’ businesses for allegedly finagling assets in order to shirk their agreed-upon payments.

A judge awarded Pentelute $12.3 million in April 2023, though the Batenburgs are appealing the ruling. (The younger Batenburg was dropped from the suit and says he is confident his family will win the appeal.

He declined to comment further, citing a nondisparagement agreement.)

Despite the difficulties the venture capital world presents, the experience has given Batenburg an eye for opportunity. This season, he’s trying to take advantage of what he sees as an opening in the Senior A market by launching the Mountain Hockey League (MHL). At the heart of the new association

ARE YOU LOOKING FOR A We’ve got you covered! Search through our extensive directories for the top medical, law and real estate professionals in Colorado.

E X P L O R E N O W A T D I R E C T O R Y. 5 2 8 0 . C O M

78

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

! f f u t S t s e B s ' r e v n e D r o f e t o V T 2024 O L L A B E C I O H C o p, READERS' places to dine, sh

picks for the best ur yo ow kn to nt how your favorite S We wa y. it c ul rf e d n o round our w arch 1! and play in and a te now through M vo d n a ve lo e m establishments so

SCAN TO CAST W YOUR BALLOT NO

OR VISIT 5280SCENE .COM

After

Let us tell your story through our storytellers.

insidestories.com 303.783.9327

Before

FROM BRAINSTORM TO BYLINE, join us on an exclusive journey as we break down the ins and outs of crafting our monthly features!

LISTEN NOW

528 0.COM /P O DC A S T

LINE CHANGE

is Batenburg’s belief that exhibition-only schedules hold Senior A teams back because there’s nothing at stake, no Stanley Cup of their own to pine for. That affects ticket sales, especially when the home team welcomes a visitor it’s sure to dominate. But give a squad (and its fans) something to strive for—which in the case of this year’s inaugural MHL season is the Clear Cup, a championship game sponsored by Clear Cannabis—and suddenly every contest matters.

Batenburg acknowledges that Senior A squads on the whole don’t need the MHL— established teams are mostly doing fine—but ever the venture capitalist, he thinks they could be doing much better. Even if the league runs at a loss, more competition could lead to higher ticket sales, which, in turn, could mean more money for participating teams for gear, road trips, and game day productions.

Legitimizing Senior A hockey in the West isn’t as simple as sponsoring a championship game, though. As the league’s commissioner, Batenburg has implemented, among other rules and regulations, standards for safety protocols he adopted with the MHL’s head of officiating, a member of the rulemaking committee for USA Hockey. That includes issuing a one-game suspension to a player for an illegal hit to the head, a level of accountability these independent amateur teams have never had.

Some of the older Senior A teams in the West are wary of the MHL. Plenty of regional Senior A leagues have launched and failed over the years, says the Moose’s Carruth, in large part because they became a financial burden for their teams by requiring them to play a certain number of costly away games against fellow league members. But Batenburg has set up the MHL differently: Clubs pay nothing to join, and instead of mandating participants compete against each other, the MHL awards points for wins, whether they’re against league members or exhibition opponents. The only obligation is that each club plays 18 games against teams that the league’s owners collectively decide are worthy competition. Then, the top two MHL clubs will play a championship match in late spring at the number one seed’s home rink.

Despite those concessions, both the Suns and the Moose did not join the 10-member MHL, meaning Batenburg’s league began in November without two of the most storied teams in the West.

AT FIRST, it seems like the Roughnecks might be an even match for the Vipers: Five minutes into the first period, the scoreboard

80

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

artma is popping up Saturday, February 24th from 6 to10pm at Denver Design Center Pop art, folk art, fine art, photography, sculpture and more.

All to help fund hope for kids with cancer.

Tickets on sale now at artmaonline.org

LINE CHANGE

scene list T H E

NEVER MISS A 5280 EVENT! 5280 brings together the best that our city has to offer in unique, one-of-a-kind events throughout the year.

SIGN UP TO GET EXCLUSIVE

82

5280 / FEBRUARY 2024

ACCESS TO EVENT TICKETS

reads two to one in favor of the home team.

Then Vipers goals start pouring in.

Rock Springs can’t keep up with Breckenridge’s pinpoint passing, and the elevation isn’t helping—at 9,688 feet, Stephen C. West Ice Arena is the highest rink in the United States and sits 3,288 feet higher than the Roughnecks’ home ice. It’s like watching the Alabama Crimson Tide football team play a DII opponent. Still, the crowd loves it. The lifties emit a constant stream of heckling, spilling beer and pounding on the glass so hard that the security team has to fight through the crowd to tell them to tone it down. At the other end of the bleachers, kids do the same, only with Capri-Suns in their hands instead of IPAs. After the first period, the score is already 5-1. Bailey, the do-it-all forward who lives in Summit County, sits with his teammates in the locker room. Despite the ruckus around him, he’s calm. When asked how many goals the Vipers might score tonight, he takes a moment, as if he’s playing out the rest of the match in his head. He finally arrives at a number: 12.

Batenburg stopped trying to score before the first period was over (blowouts are usually bad for business, and he knows that tomorrow’s crowd will likely be half the size of tonight’s), but the team’s owner can only suppress his competitive drive so much. Over the past few years, Batenburg has been so focused on building the family business and running the Vipers that he wasn’t on the ice as much as he wanted. “When I don’t skate, I get in a funk,” he says. “It’s such a slow decline that you don’t really notice it.”

Recently, he’s been trying to spend more time on the ice. Not only has his play improved, but his mental health has rebounded, too.

“This year, it’s as if there’s been a renewal in me,” he says. He ends the game against the Roughnecks with nine assists in a 17-1 Vipers win.

Despite the score, the crowd barely thins before the final whistle. Fans line the Vipers’ route back to the locker room to congratulate the players. But the community’s support, as welcome as it is, is just a bonus. At one point, many of the Vipers had stopped competing only to later realize they’d given up one of the most important things in their lives. “For decades, we all had the trust and companionship and closeness of a team that’s battling together,” Batenburg says, “and then one day that was gone.” Now, they have it back. m Nicholas Hunt is 5280’s senior editor. Send feedback to letters@5280.com.

OFFICIAL RADIO HOME

94.1 FM

850 AM

DAVE LOGAN ALFRED WILLIAMS RYAN EDWARDS WEEKDAYS 3-6 PM NEWS TALK SPORTS

AC T L I K E A L O CA L

THE OVERSIMPLIFIED GUIDE TO:

Cooking Green Chile

With February temps averaging just above freezing in Denver, this oversize, one-pot recipe from the Pueblo Chile Growers Association promises to heat up your entire extended family and unclog your sinuses. — N I C H O L A S H U N T 1

GATHER

3 pounds roasted Pueblo chiles 5 cloves garlic 1 medium onion 5 pounds trimmed and diced pork Salt and pepper 3 cups flour 1 quart crushed tomatoes

84

5280 / F E B R UA R Y 2024

2

PREP

Peel off the chiles’ roasted skins and chop the peppers into nickel-size pieces, then dice the garlic and onion.

3

COOK

Brown the pork in a deep soup pot and season with salt and pepper. Add onion and garlic and cook until tender.

4

SIMMER

Add flour. Once it turns golden brown, toss in the tomatoes, most of the chiles, and enough water to reach your desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper, then simmer for at least 30 minutes to release the heat.

5

SEASON

If the dish isn’t spicy enough, throw more chiles into the pot and simmer for another halfhour. Or, if the capsaicin is making your eyes and nose run, add more water or tomatoes to cool the heat. Serve hot in a bowl with a side of toasted, buttered tortillas.

ILLUSTRATION BY SIMONE MASSONI

Thought Forum Co-founded and Hosted by

Tuesday, February 27 Jake Jabs Event Center 1 4 7 5 L AW R E NC E S T. | DE N V E R , C O 8 0 2 0 2

The 5280 Thought Forum will bring together some of the Centennial State’s top minds for an afternoon of thoughtful conversations about Colorado’s economy. The afternoon will feature three panel discussions—moderated by 5280’s editors—on topics including the biotech industry, the green economy, and the importance of small businesses.

Space is limited, reserve your spot today!

THANK YOU TO SPONSORS:

5280scene.com/5280-thought-forum

Not Your Daddy’s Steakhouse DINNER • HAPPY HOUR LUNCH • BRUNCH TAKEOUT & DELIVERY ST KSTEAKHOUSE.COM

Follow Us @EATST K 1 55 0 MA RKET ST 720. 597.8010

J O I N U S F O R VA L E N T I N E ’ S D AY

DINNER • HAPPY HOUR LUNCH • BRUNCH TAKEOUT & DELIVERY KONAGRILL.COM

Follow Us @KONAGRILL 3000 EAST 1 ST AVE 720.974.1300