A monohull sailor's experience getting to know a catamaran.
Tangible takeaways galore from this year's Safety at Sea course.
Cruising some all-time favorites in the San Juan Islands.
Carol McCreary
COLUMNS
always more to discover.
tough life of a recreational marine diesel engine.
Mighetto
RACING
Carol and Jack McCreary's Nordic Tug 37, Morning Light , anchored blissfully in tiny Ell Cove on the coast of Baranof Island. The couple has seven round-trips to Alaska in their wake, first on their Valiant 40 and more recently on the Nordic Tug. This month, they share a lovely story about enjoying the cruising grounds closer to home (page 38). Photo by Carol McCreary.
Background photo courtesy of Ken Parker.
Editor
THE RETURN
Who isn’t inspired by those always chasing the farthest horizon, the uncharted territory, the most wild and remote nooks? It’s a part of the dream for tons of us, and a reality for many. On the other hand, if I was limited to exploring only the San Juan Islands for the rest of my days, stopping in places I’ve already been, I’d call it a pretty happy life and rewarding in different ways. Of course, the actual experience is hardly binary— circumnavigators cruise locally as well, or sometimes the island just beyond the familiar represents adventure aplenty. Led by several stories in this issue, I’m thinking about returning to favorite cruising environs and all the happiness it has afforded me.
For me, it started with Bainbridge Island’s Eagle Harbor and the quaint town of Winslow. Running a nearby sailing club at the time, I found my way there over and over again—both with club programs and with friends and family. There’s an ever-present calm when you round the red Wing Point Reef can and turn into the shelter of the bay lined with docks and dotted with others on the hook; unless you’re sharing the narrow channel with a ferry. The Harbor Pub’s chowder was bankably great in any season. It was the perfect way for me—even then, hardly a cruiser—to communicate with others how incredible it is to jaunt around by boat, ducking into places that are so close-by but feel a world away. To this day, I’ve never entered Eagle Harbor feeling anything other than serene delight.
As my cruising experience and ambitions have grown, I’ve come to know what is probably an average zone of exploration around the San Juan and Gulf islands. In that time, I’ve relished the chance to push beyond the same old ports and waterways. The wonder and excitement of new territory is palpable. But as I reflect on those magical discoveries, the places that have drawn me back for multiple visits already hold great fondness. No doubt, some of it is geographic. Cruising on sailboats, as I typically do, there are only so many options accessible in a day’s travel. Still, there were always other choices… Returning somewhere like Stuart Island’s Prevost Harbor almost feels like an annual basecamp. Only once was it my destination unto itself. On numerous trips since then it has been the place I choose to collect myself before a jump into the Gulf Islands, and it delivers perennially. The familiarity reduces stress—the entrance that’s not to be underthought, the spot where the rocky shelf starts to be problematic on the south side, and the currents that keep the fleet spinning in an unpredictable jumble. It also tells me where a hazy summer sunset will linger longest.
Then there’s Medicine Beach at the north end of Bedwell Harbor, distinct from Prevost because it’s only viable in certain conditions. But when it’s good, it’s so, so good. I’ve been there enough to know that if the kelp or the rocky shelf mean poor anchor hold on the first try, another attempt will probably do the job. Or, Saturna Island’s remarkable Winter Cove, a place I seem to become only more fond of each time I stop there. Winter Cove gives me so much of what I want out of cruising—surroundings lovely and diverse, oodles of room to not feel crowded, shoreside fun right in the cove and other places accessible by dinghy, blackberries if the season is right, and some of the best sunsets I’ve seen anywhere on the planet.
In a way, this rumination is less a window into my urge for comfort and more a testament to these extraordinary cruising grounds that we PNW boat folk are so fortunate to have close at hand. I can’t recall a place I’ve been to a second time that’s ever let me down, and not because of low expectations! So, as you put together your itineraries for the coming sunny season, don’t forgo a few of your alltime faves without due consideration.
I'll see you on the water,
Joe Cline Managing Editor, 48° North
48º North
Volume XLIV, Number 10, May 2025 (206) 789-7350
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MARITIME GRADUATES SET NEW COURSE FOR BRIGHT FUTURES
In addition to sunshine and the inescapable magnetic pull to the water, this season also brings the close of one important chapter for students and the opening of promising new ones. True everywhere, it is absolutely on display among the high school (soon-to-be) graduates who are involved in maritime education through Northwest Maritime. The organization’s two flagship high school programs are Port Townsend Maritime Academy (PTMA, run in partnership with Port Townsend School District) and the Maritime High School (MHS, run in partnership with Highline School District). Notably, this year’s MHS class of 2025 is the school’s first-ever graduating class! We hope the whole 48° North community will join us in congratulating these students and supporting their advancement on their maritime journeys!
These educational pathways inspire, connect, and inform students of varying interests, aptitudes, and talents. And as with any school, what to do after graduation is a choice as individual as the students themselves. Among the graduating classes both at PTMA and, now for the first time, MHS, there are many students to celebrate and so much potential in these graduates and for the maritime world through them. The following is far from a comprehensive list, but gives a window into a handful of students who are eagerly continuing their maritime learning and professional development. Expanding the maritime workforce sustainably may be a long-play; but with kids, stories, and opportunities like these, the excitement and progress is tangible!
PTMA GRADUATING SENIOR HIGHLIGHTS (Quotes by PT Schools Maritime Educator, Karl Jordan)
ISAAC: “Isaac brings a strong mechanical aptitude to every project he tackles. He approaches hands-on work with energy, enthusiasm, and a drive to get the job done right—and fast. I have no doubt that he will thrive in trade school and go on to make a valuable impact in the marine service industry. His future in marine systems repair looks bright.”
ROBIN: "Robin is a standout student whose dedication and passion for the maritime field are truly inspiring. As a second-year student commuting an hour each way to PTMA, she shows up each day with positivity, attentiveness, and an unwavering work ethic. Robin fully embodies PTMA’s mission to engage students and launch them into maritime careers. From high school sailing to her plans to teach at NWM’s summer programs, she continues to grow as both a leader and mariner. After learning about the Washington State Ferries Mates in Training program on a PTMA field trip, she set her sights on enrolling this fall—a goal I'm sure she will accomplish. I’m confident Robin will make a meaningful impact in the ferry system and perhaps even in the cargo shipping industry beyond."
ALANA: “Alana’s passion for the ocean is evident in everything she does. She moved all the way from Arizona to pursue her goals through PTMA and Running Start, and has taken full advantage of every opportunity. For her senior project, she’s earning her diving certification—a perfect step toward her future in marine biology. Alana is curious, driven, and unafraid to dive deep, both literally and academically. I’m sure her journey in the marine sciences will take her to amazing places.”
MARITIME HIGH SCHOOL GRADUATING SENIOR HIGHLIGHTS
Among seniors in MHS’s inaugural graduating class, there are a number of standouts who are sure to make positive waves in the industry. Across the 31 graduating seniors, 15 are pursuing further study at college or a technical school, 12 are going straight into the workforce, and four are undecided. Among them are two who are excelling in a conventional maritime track, Chloe and Ryan. This pair of MHS students have advanced into the school's collaborative program with Seattle Maritime Academy in the Vessel Operations field. Excitingly, both Chloe and Ryan have been accepted and will attend Cal Maritime Academy next year to keep learning, growing, and preparing themselves for rewarding, high-paying careers in the maritime industry. Well done, Chloe and Ryan! » Learn more at nwmaritime.org
Swan Hotel
48° North
RACE TO ALASKA
Wooden Boat Festival Northwest Maritime
LETTERS 13
Response to Sheridan Ferguson’s COB story in the April issue, “Breaking the #1 Rule”
I really loved the article by Sheridan Ferguson in the April issue. I found her writing so compelling I couldn’t put it down. Great stuff. - Michael Boyd
Amazing read. Thank you so much for sharing. I teared up a few times reading this beautiful story. Thank you. - Gerry Austin
Hunter
I just finished Sheridan Ferguson’s article! Amazing, well written, and intense! Yup, stay on the boat… if you can. Rule #1. She didn’t leave anything out. Rate it a 10. - Cliff
Response to JJ Hoag’s My Boat article about her Hobie 33, TC in the April issue Joe!
Great article about the Hobie 33 in the April issue. Those boats are like a trimaran without “training wheels”! One small critique: Trailer-sailors like to avoid using the words “dropped” and “mast” in the same sentence. “Lowered” is much preferred!
Speaking of dropped, and also how tough the boats were built, I recall looking over one that was in my local boatyard (then in Texas) to have the keel fixed in place. The owner was just finishing lifting the keel prior to going on the trailer when the winch wire parted suddenly. Incredibly, the keel stayed in the boat when it hit the stop!
Most of the frames in the middle of the boat were broken loose from the hull. The owner decided—never again! He had the keel glassed down and sold the trailer. He wasn’t hurt, but the rebound from the impact very nearly tossed him off the coachroof!
Tough boat!
Paul Erb
Hi Joe,
I enjoyed the April edition and the Hobie 33 TC article. It flashed back my memories to crewing (mostly foredeck, kite trim) on a local Seattle Hobie 33 called Hobie Gillis owned by Jim Johanson (en?) in the mid/late 80s-early 90s. We did most of the midweek “beer can” races off of Shilshole plus many mid distance races and Whidbey Island Race Week, and the “Little Ensenada” race from San Diego to Ensenada, Mexico. It added up to a great time, especially downwind or reaching. Last I knew Hobie Gillis was relaxing in the San Juans.
Chuck Puyallup, WA
low tides » News & Events
THE ANACORTES BOAT AND YACHT SHOW IS HERE!
Anacortes Boat and Yacht Show featuring Trawlerfest sails into Anacortes May 15-17, 2025. The show features more than 250 new and brokerage boats of all sizes from your favorite brands, dealers, brokers, and exhibitors in one place, as well as 30 seminars from experts and rendezvous evening activities.
This year’s show is more welcoming and enticing than ever. Kids 17 and under enjoy free admission each day, yacht club members get in free on Thursday,
May 15, military and veterans' tickets are discounted to $10 each day, and leashed dogs are welcome. Moreover, a beer or wine ticket is included with the purchase of an adult e-ticket—drink vouchers are available at the box office/ show entrance, redeemable at either the RockFish Grill and Anacortes Brewery or at Union Tavern.
Spanning five days, May 13-17, Trawlerfest’s highly-regarded seminars and educational classes are conveniently
located at nearby walkable locations. Topics this year include weather, maintenance, electrical, communications, engines, electronics, navigation, destinations, and more. There are two seminar packages to choose from: The 3-Day VIP Package for $525 or the 5-Day VIP Package for $675. Also, you can join the cocktail cruise on Thursday, May 15, for $75 (included in VIP passes). Find out more and purchase tickets at » anacortesboatandyachtshow.com.
AROUND THE AMERICAS EXPEDITION LAUNCHING MAY 3 IN ANACORTES
After months of boat projects and preparation, the research sailing vessel One Ocean will be departing from Anacortes for its 14-month Around the Americas education and research expedition on May 3. Skagit Valley College (SVC) will host a launch event for One Ocean at 8 a.m. in the parking lot near Dock B of Cap Sante Marina in the Port of Anacortes. The event will feature a reception from 8-9 a.m. with remarks from project supporters and the One Ocean crew at 9 a.m. One Ocean will launch at 10 a.m. for its voyage. The event is free and open to the public, and refreshments will be served. The Samish Research and Spill Response Vessel Yo’mech (Chinook) will escort the vessel out to sea.
The Around the Americas expedition will focus on ocean research, education, and community outreach to highlight the importance of education to motivate students of all ages to become future ocean stewards. One Ocean, a 48-foot Perry-designed ketch, will make its first stop in Victoria, B.C. to participate in the International Seaweed Symposium and continue on through the Northwest Passage to Brazil’s COP30 Climate Change Conference in November 2025.
The 14-month voyage will be conducted by a five-person crew, including two undergraduate marine science students, who will collect open-source scientific data for educators, students, and researchers worldwide. The route follows the 2009-10 Ocean Watch expedition, allowing for comparative data collection at more than 50 ports across 12 countries, including stops in the
Northwest Passage, U.S. East Coast, Puerto Rico, Brazil’s COP30, the Falkland Islands, Cape Horn, Chile, Peru, Ecuador, and the U.S. West Coast. The expedition will circumnavigate back to Anacortes in June 2026.
The five-person crew includes: Mark Schrader, Captain; Jennifer Dalton, Project Director and Co-Captain; Mike Beemer, Scientist and Director of the SVC Marine Technology Center; Grace Dalton, Lead Onboard Scientist; and Tess Shornack, Outreach Coordinator.
Learn more and follow along at » oneislandoneocean.com.
low tides » News & Events
WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL EARLY BIRD TICKETS ON SALE UNTIL MAY 31
Join your fellow boating enthusiasts in Port Townsend on September 5–7, 2025, for the 48th Wooden Boat Festival (WBF)! The largest festival of wooden boats in North America, the WBF is a place where kids and adults alike experience the magic of getting on the water, the beauty of wooden boats, and the richness of our local maritime culture. Come learn from the experts, gawk at hundreds of beautifully crafted vessels, and swap stories with wooden boat aficionados. Bring your family and build a toy boat with the kids, watch them print t-shirts with real fish, and row Port Townsend Bay together on one of our historic longboats. Or grab a few friends and check out the variety of vendors, dig into some local eats, and dance the night away. Whatever your flavor—there’s something for everybody at the Wooden Boat Festival. You can purchase 2025 Wooden Boat Festival tickets to take advantage of discounted early bird rates through May 31. Tickets include access to all Festival boats, all daytime presentations and demonstrations (excluding Nigel Calder workshops), exhibitors, music performances, kids’ activities, and food vendors. Also, Wooden Boat Festival ticket sales support the yearround educational programs and events at Northwest Maritime. » woodenboat.org.
low tides » In The Biz
JEFF BROWN YACHTS APPOINTS DENIZ OZCAKIR HEAD OF SALES AND MARKETING
Jeff Brown Yachts is excited to announce the appointment of Deniz Ozcakir as the company’s new Head of Sales and Marketing. With over two decades of experience in the luxury yacht industry, Deniz will play a pivotal role in fostering stronger customer relationships, enhancing brand visibility, and driving revenue growth as Jeff Brown Yachts continues to build on its reputation as a premier bespoke yacht dealership. » www.jeffbrownyachts.com
Adventures Begin Here
ultimate
Get your tickets today.
CROSSWORD AND TRIVIA
DID YOU KNOW?
by Bryan Henry
The great white shark is capable of detecting a single drop of blood in a million gallons of water.
The sense of smell is so critical to a shark that twothirds of its brain is devoted to processing scent data.
Great white sharks would drown if they stop swimming.
South Africa became the first country to put the great white shark on its no-take list in 1991. The United States followed in 1997.
Sharks detect the electrical charge produced by the earth’s magnetic field through nose pores called ampullae of Lorenzini.
The thresher shark’s eyes are five inches in diameter.
Some sharks feed on smaller sharks, sometimes members of their own species.
ACROSS
1 Island region known for pristine beaches and reggae music
6 Protected ocean inlet
8 Oranjestad’s island
10 Watery motion, 2 words
11 Mariner
12 When taking a swim just remain in the same place, 2 words
13 TV format
15 Covered in case of losses
19 Sweet tropical stone fruit
21 Electric vehicle, abbr.
22 Immensely long time period
23 Spiny marine creature, 2 words
25 Sets off on a journey
27 Beam of sunshine
29 ___ Maria cocktail
30 Compass direction, abbr.
31 Fishes
32 Commercial messages
33 Morning moisture
DOWN
1 Shore’s edge where land meets sea
2 Way to go
3 Wooden plank used for building decks
4 Deep green, like some tropical waters
5 Chivalrous
6 Small two-masted sailing vessel
7 Give way to other ships
9 Sheep’s call
14 Secured, while at sea
16 Offshore ridge, 2 words
17 Vacation getaways
18 Day before an event
19 Large ocean game fishes
20 Possess
24 On the briny, 2 words
25 And so forth, abbr.
26 Mamma ___ (Abba song)
28 Go off course temporarily
» See solution on page 52
The tiger shark has been responsible for more fatal attacks on humans than any other species of shark.
Shark-eye corneas have been used for human transplants, and shark tissue to construct artificial skin for burn victims.
The chance of a human being eaten by a shark is 300 million to one.
The Inuit once used sharks’ teeth as razors.
Basking sharks, the world’s second largest fish after the whale shark, and growing 30 or 40 feet, have been known to breach out of water.
Only in 1996 did scientists discover how the whale shark, the world’s largest fish, reproduce.
The megamouth shark wasn’t discovered until 1976, with only about six specimens thus far being found. A live specimen wasn’t observed by camera until 1989.
Many marine animals practice cannibalism, including, sharks, lobsters, crabs, octopuses and some fish such as tuna and mackerel.
Some fish, such as anchovies, eat the eggs of their own species.
low tides » Products News
» MUSTANG ATLAS 190 DLX HAMMAR
If you’re looking to upgrade your life jacket for the upcoming racing and cruising season, Mustang Survival’s new Atlas 190 DLX Hammar could be the ideal solution. Designed and built as a cutting-edge choice for offshore sailing, cruising, and boating, the Hammar is an award winning piece of life saving equipment that is right at home on the waters of the Pacific Northwest. Engineered with ADAPT Technology it incorporates bladder contouring that provides strong turning performance without hindering self-rescue or when boarding rescue crafts. The vest also boasts an ergonomic design for all-day comfort and features an integrated sprayhood and SOLAS-approved water-activated light. A low-profile tether point allows users to attach to jack lines and lightweight anodized aluminum hardware provides durability and security.
Price: $332.99 » www.mustangsurvival.com
» YETI RANCHERO EDC BACKPACK
While YETI might be best known for their lines of coolers and cups, they recently launched into the backpack game with the Ranchero EDC (22L and 27L). Yes, the Ranchero is a Yeti product, but it traces its origins to Mystery Ranch—a Montana-based outdoor company that YETI acquired in 2024. What makes the Ranchero unique is its Y-shaped, RipZip opening that allows the user to easily access the inside of the pack from the top and front. Ample pocket space includes a laptop sleeve and a place to store clothes, shoes, and much more. Envisioned as a day pack for outdoor adventures or a commuter bag to use on your way to and from work, it is made of TuffSkin nylon that is water- and abrasion-resistant, and has an exterior stretch pocket for a water bottle. The pack is available in colors black, olive, or taupe.
Price: $225-$275 » www.yeti.com
» FORE RUNNER FOLDING RIB
All tenders are not created equal, and in the case of the new Fore Runner inflatable folding rib, the aim was to create an allout adventure machine, not a simple dinghy. The re-engineered fiberglass hull with pronounced strakes was designed to handle the rigors of open waters, and the double-welded seams and robust German Heytex material adds durability and UV resistance for longevity. All that, and the boat can be deflated and folded down in minutes for stowing on deck, in a lazarette, or in the trunk of a car. A large selection of accessories includes Railblaza mounts for use with rod holders, fillet tables, speargun racks, drink holders, and more. The Fore Runner comes in two sizes: The 290 (9-feet 6-inches) and the 340 (11-feet 3-inches). All boats come with a travel bag, accessory bag, oars, bench seats, pump, and repair kit.
Price: $4,050 and $4,750 » www.forerunnercraft.com
>1,000 yards from whale(s)
1/2 nautical mile = roughly 1,000 yards
Boaters must:
away obeying 7-knot speed limit
▸ Stay 1,000 yards away from Southern Resident(s)
▸ If within 1,000 yards, move away below 7-knot speed limit
▸ If within 400 yards (and if it is safe to do so), disengage transmission, luff sails, or stop paddling until whale(s) move away
Learn more at wdfw.wa.gov/orca
transmission, cease paddling, luff sails
HIKES FOR BOATERS 20 MORE SAN JUAN ISLANDS
Tby Michael Boyd
he San Juan Islands are one of the great treasures for boaters in the Pacific Northwest, even more so for those who like to go hiking. Our previous column on the San Juan Islands covered our favorite hikes on Cypress and Sucia islands, and at Garrison Bay. In this installment, I’ll cover a few more excellent options.
STUART ISLAND
Stuart Island is blessed with two large, protected bays on the north and south sides of the Island. Both have a state park dock, mooring buoys and linear mooring, plus plenty of room to anchor. Prevost Harbor is on the north side, but we tend to end up at Reid Harbor on the south side more often. It just seems easier to anchor and the sun sets earlier there, which is particularly nice on hot summer days. It also has a floating pump-out station, which is very convenient if you’ve been cruising the islands for more than a few days. The land between the two harbors is a state park with access to nice hikes. First, there is the short walk between the docks in the two harbors, which we always take just to see the boats in the other harbor—there might be someone we recognize. There is a longer, circular hike in the state park lands between the harbors. But the best hike leaves the state park and walks up the gravel road from Reid Harbor to Turn Point at the
western tip of the island. For most of the way the walk is well shaded by trees, but in the middle is a sunny stretch, the heat of which is eased by a cool, fresh drinking water stand that has been provided by the local residents.
Turn Point juts out into Haro Strait at the place where the shipping lanes make a dramatic turn. It’s an area of strong currents and orca pods are often sighted here, though in the many times we have been here we have yet to see them. It must be a matter of luck or maybe karma. Near the point is a side trail to the top of Lovers Leap Cliff where we’ve looked down on nesting peregrine falcons in the past. It’s kind of scary though—sheer drop and no railings.
There is a navigational light at Turn Point that is now automated, but the old keeper’s house has been turned into a museum. We always cap our stay with a visit to the unique outhouse with its Victorian decor. This is a very popular 5-mile hike that well deserves its acclaim.
Photos by Karen Johnson.
Warship from Lovers Leap, Stuart Island, near Turn Point.
MATIA ISLAND
Matia Island is a couple of miles east of Sucia Island, but is completely different in character. There is a cove on the southeast side where anchoring is possible but it is very exposed to southeast wind and waves. We’ve never tried it. The main cove on the west side faces Sucia Island and has a small state park dock that can hold two or three boats at most. There used to be two mooring buoys here, but they were gone the last time we visited; and we don’t recommend anchoring, as the bottom is poor and there is quite a bit of current. Whenever we are in the area we make a pass by the cove to see if there is room at the dock—once in a while there is, so we spend the night. We consider it a rare treat.
Matia Island, including its shoreline and offshore rocks is actually a National Wildlife Refuge, off limits to human visitors. But it also contains a Washington State Park that encompasses the dock and its uplands, together with a milelong trail that circles the island. You can hike the trail but are not allowed off of it. And what a trail it is. We love it for its views of the water, its rocky outcroppings and for its stands of old growth trees, some of which have been hollowed out by fire but are still standing and growing. We always seem to be here on wet days when we can’t seem to avoid the island’s main hazard, its huge population of large black and green slugs. We wear our muck boots and are careful not to board the boat before cleaning them off since,
despite our best efforts, the slugs are impossible to avoid on the trail. Someday we would like to hike Matia Island after a long dry summer—if there happens to be some of that hard-to-come-by space at the dock, of course.
LOPEZ ISLAND: WATMOUGH BAY
On the southeast coast of Lopez Island is a short, narrow inlet ending in a pebble beach called Watmough Bay. It is well protected from most weather, though we’ve been there while westerly gales were blowing in the Strait of Juan de Fuca and found it can be breezy but with no fetch. There are several free DNR buoys in the bay that we sometimes take, but usually we just anchor and have always had good results. The scenery is spectacular—on the south is a wooded hillside and on the north is a 300 foot high cliff that lines the entire bay. Over the years, we’ve seen nesting peregrine falcons and nesting turkey vultures directly from the boat. At the head of the bay, there is a gentle beach with wetland beyond and a broad path inland to Watmough Head Road.
One favorite trail starts from the main access path just beyond the wetland or, alternatively, from a narrow path skirting the wetland on its north side. It then climbs steeply to the top of the cliff, the highest point (well back from the edge I should add) being 465 foot Chadwick Hill. It’s a rigorous climb but well worth the effort, and someone has
even installed a rope swing at the top. If we explore closer to the cliff ’s edge we can find a location that gives us a view looking down at our boat, at least if we anchored on the south side of the bay. Several loops are possible for the return trip and we enjoy exploring them, even though we have lost our way more than once and had to backtrack. The direct round trip to Chadwick Hill summit and viewpoints is less than half a mile.
We often add a completely different experience by hiking out the entrance path then east on Watmough Head Road to a side trail on the right after a quarter mile or so. The trail heads south to the Strait of Juan de Fuca where it continues along the top of the headlands within a narrow grassy strip between the cliffs and the forest with open views of the Strait and offshore islands. There are lots of options here. We think this is a perfect place for lunch on a sunny day. This loop is under 2 miles from the beach with little elevation gain.
These hikes and many others like them are just a few of the attractions that make the San Juan Islands a mecca for boaters in our area. Enjoy!
Michael and Karen have been cruising the Salish Sea and beyond for more than 20 years, hiking every chance they get. For more resources for hikers visit their web site at https://mvmischief.com/library/
For additional hiking information in this area Michael and Karen also recommend: Hiking the San Juan Islands by Ken Wilcox.
Matia Island old growth cedar with burned out core.
Lone hiker on Strait of Juan de Fuca trail near Watmough Bay.
Joyful swinging on the top of Chatham Hill above Watmough Bay.
DIESEL DEEP DIVE 22
RUN ‘EM HARD
THE TOUGH LIFE OF A RECREATIONAL MARINE DIESEL ENGINE
By Meredith Anderson
Since their inception, diesel engines have been known to last for many thousands of operating hours under the most strenuous and abusive conditions, and yet recreational diesel engines seem to struggle compared to their commercial or industrial counterparts in terms of longevity. Why is that?
When working on several large commercial ships as an engineer, I operated and maintained engines that had accumulated in excess of 20,000-50,000 hours of run time. Some of these engines never got shut down and would be expected to run 24/7 with systems in place that could even change their engine oil during their operation. When the time came to tear into some of these engines for their regular maintenance (not including failures) they had cylinders that looked brand new, complete with the original machined crosshatch patterns, and their associated parts appeared to be in excellent shape despite their relentless hours of run time.
Conversely, the average recreational diesel that I service or tear down out in the field or inside my shop has excess wear and tear—severe blowby, burning oil, hard starts, low compression—with only a few thousand, or even just a few hundred, hours of run time depending on the circumstances. An average “high hour” diesel in the recreational world seems to fall around 4,000-6,000 hours. Ironically, many engines I see with the worst premature wear and tear have only 500 hours or less on them. How is this possible?
Diesel engines are designed to work and to work hard. They
have always been more desirable for carrying and moving heavy loads, having good fuel economy, and for lasting longer than the average equivalent gasoline engine. They do, however, have one fairly large downfall—they are “oil burning” engines, and one huge by-product of their combustion is soot. Soot, also referred to as carbon deposits, are literal fragments of partially unburned diesel from poor or improper combustion inside the cylinder. While there are many factors that contribute to the level of soot—fouled injectors, low combustion temps, and more—even under absolutely perfect conditions, every engine will have some level of soot production, even when new. If soot levels are not controlled inside the engine, this will lead to excessive wear and tear on internal engine parts. Soot or carbon deposits are extremely abrasive. Imagine adding fine sand to
Damaged main connecting rod bearing with only 100 hours of run time after a fresh rebuild. Metal was found in the oil from the break-in period.
your engine oil and running your engine. Soot is picked up and held in suspension in modern engine oils. That means whatever oil circulates before and after the oil filters gets spread around every part of the engine. Both mineral and synthetic engine oils sold today have special detergents in them that help capture and hold onto this soot so it can be removed from the engine during an oil change. Engine oil filters typically filter down to 5-10 microns, but a lot of soot is 2 microns or smaller.
Recreational diesel engines often live the hardest life imaginable. A lot of folks “baby” their engines for various reasons, especially when brand new. Many people who have repowered their boats with a new engine tell me they are actually afraid to run them hard for fear of doing damage. More importantly, they also fail to perform a proper “breakin” period for the engine after it is installed. This is the fault of many manufacturers and boatyards who claim the engine is already “broken-in” when in reality, it usually isn’t. The reality is, the new engine is assembled and put on a “dyno” that runs it through its paces for a short period of time and is then sent off to be sold. All new engines need to be run hard for the first 100 hours or so. Failing to properly break-in a new engine can permanently shorten its life and cause severe premature internal wear. If an engine is not run hard under load when brand new, piston rings and other critical parts will never “bite-in” and conform to cylinder walls and may even begin to seize up within the first 100 hours or less resulting in severe blowby and loss of compression. I also see excessive cylinder and bearing damage from metal wear, as new engines during their break-in periods will naturally have small bits of metal that need to be cleared out often during their initial run time. It is always critical to limit idle time (avoid it at all costs early on) and change your oil more often than normal for the first few hours of running your new engine to help it avoid these issues. A good diesel mechanic can help walk you through breaking in a new engine if you need help.
But what if your engine isn’t new? Why do I see so much wear and tear on engines with only 400 hours or so of run time? Much of what I see is related to a few things: the first is the engine was not properly broken in from day one; the second is that the engine is never run hard enough or warmed up enough to be able to clear its own soot efficiently, which leads to excessive wear on internal metal parts.
Let’s say you have a sailboat and you start your engine and
idle your way out of the marina, put your sails up, and turn the engine off right away. The engine never reaches operating temperature or it barely reaches it, thus combustion is poor leading to excessive soot production. The only thing that can clear soot is heat. You also may have never run the engine at the desired 75-80% or more of it’s rated RPM’s while underway— running it below these thresholds creates even more soot than normal.
What about the powerboaters out there? Most powerboaters I talk to have one big complaint: “It’s expensive to run the engines at their rated cruising speed.” My answer to this is: you should’ve bought a sailboat. Just kidding. But jokes aside, the reality is that the cost to repair/rebuild your bigger engines from not running them hard enough will far exceed the cost of fuel it will take to run them at their rated cruising speed during their lifetime. Outside factors (poor maintenance, bad injectors, etc) not included, running your engines hard—75-80% under load while cruising—will help keep soot levels under control. And that is one of the best ways to keep your engines happy for many years.
Well maintained commercial engines often fare extremely well even in the worst environments because they are running at their rated RPM all the time, under load without much of a break. They get up to their rated operating temperature and stay there for hours or days on end. When a big industrial generator is fired up on a worksite or even in an application like a tugboat or locomotive, it immediately runs at its desired RPM under a heavy load the entire time without any idling. A large ship’s engine doesn’t typically idle much while out on the open ocean. An excavator almost always has a load because it’s running its hydraulics and moving its chassis around all day. All these engines rarely sit and idle much, nor are they shut down after only a few minutes or an hour of running. The engines that are allowed to run at slow speeds or idle, such as semitrucks (overnight parking with the truck idling all night), or recreational applications all have the same problem, and that’s excessive soot. Take care of your engines, get out there and run them hard. And change your oil too!
Meredith Anderson is the owner of Madame Diesel, LLC, where she operates a mobile mechanic service and teaches hands-on marine diesel classes to groups and in private classes aboard clients’ own vessels.
Rebuilding a Universal M25 with all new components due to excessive soot damage.
starting a 1928 Atlas engine after pulling its injectors due to excess soot.
Merdith
A NORTHWEST SAILOR NAVIGATES THE PAST 24 WEATHERLOGGED
UNCOVERING CLIMATE DATA AND SEA STORIES IN THE LOGBOOKS OF EARLY MARINERS
By the time our boat reached the middle of Haro Strait, I knew that my husband Frank and I were in trouble. The weather report, checked at the dock before departure, had not indicated dangerous conditions and we were excited to begin our two-month circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. But in the Strait the wind was gusting 40 knots, opposing a strong tide and creating steep waves that foamed above our cockpit before slamming into our 26-foot boat on all sides. It was like cruising in a washing machine on the heavy cycle.
We quickly reduced sail and started the engine, which proved to be little help as breaking waves lifted our stern out of the water, causing the outboard to cavitate while the bow dove below the surface. Turning around seemed impossible, so we ducked behind the nearest island— more of a large rock, really—and waited several hours for the wind to ease. No
wonder ours was the only boat in sight. “You were out there in this gale?” our neighbors asked as they helped us tie up at the dock in Sidney, B.C. “In that small boat?” For years I called that crossing our “shakeup/shakedown” cruise.
Since then, we have encountered more challenging conditions on much bigger water on many different boats. Yet this experience stands out. Although it happened 25 years ago, I recall that day vividly, not because I have an excellent memory but because it is recorded in our logbook, along with my repudiation of the misleading weather report.
Like 48° North’s columnist Dennis Bottemiller, I am an “obsessive” record keeper (see his column in the December 2024 issue). My logbooks are organized into sections, including weather, boat maintenance and repairs, wildlife encounters, and people met along the way. We modern cruisers have this in common with mariners of the past,
by Lisa Mighetto
who have chronicled life on the water throughout the centuries. While focused on weather and sea state, early logbooks also provide information on everything from diet to ship’s supplies to social interactions on board. Some of them even tell riveting sea stories.
PRECIOUS CARGO
What is the most important portable item on your boat? What would you take with you if you and your crew had to evacuate? Maybe it’s equipment, water, food, or clothing. Ship captains of the past regarded their logbooks as indispensable. Naval officer George W. De Long, for example, spent his last days dragging the four volumes of his logbook across a frozen delta in 1881, hoping to lead the remnants of his crew to safety when their vessel, the USS Jeannette, sank after being trapped in Arctic ice for two years. Starving, frostbitten, and too weak to continue, Captain De Long
Arctic ice crushed the USS Jeannette. The ship sank after being trapped in the ice for two years, but the ship’s logbooks were saved.
buried the leather-bound logbooks, marking the spot with a pole before he died. Several months later, crew member George Melville discovered the logbooks during a search for his missing shipmates. Stumbling through a snowstorm, his legs swollen from exposure, Melville considered reburying the logbooks to lighten his load. Luckily for us, he changed his mind. “I would swear a new oath to carry them through . . . come what might,” he wrote [Andrew R.C. Marshall, “How the Secrets of 19th Century Ship Logbooks are Helping Scientists Understand Arctic Climate Change,” Arctic Today, Dec. 13, 2019]. Today, the logbooks of the illfated Jeannette and its voyage, the US Arctic Expedition, are preserved in a climate-controlled storage room in the National Archives.
The officers of the Corwin, a Pacific Revenue Cutter (predecessor of the US Coast Guard) based in San Francisco, displayed a similar, if less dramatic, resolve to preserve their record in 1881. Sent to search for the Jeannette, which had also left from San Francisco, the Corwin’s exploring party built a cairn on Herald Island in the Arctic Ocean, marking the spot where they placed a sealed bottle containing a record of their visit, along with a copy of the New York Herald. The Corwin did not locate the Jeannette or the missing whaling ships they hoped to find. Yet the crew, which included the naturalist John Muir, spent their voyage gathering data on weather, wildlife, glaciation, and other topics. Scientific exploration of the Far North often went hand-in-hand with colonial expansion—and ship captains were
US Navy officer George De Long and his party waded ashore from the ill-fated USS Jeannette in 1881. De Long saved the logbooks.
aware that protecting logbooks meant protecting their legacies.
While mariners had kept logbooks since ancient times, records became more detailed over the centuries, including geographic position, vessel speed, precipitation, wind direction and force, temperatures, ocean currents, sea conditions, and sightings of whales and other commercially valuable marine life. By the eighteenth century, maritime logbooks had become structured and standardized for legal and administrative purposes—and the British Royal Navy considered false or sloppy recording to be a serious offense. “Anything you read in a logbook,” claimed Clive Wilkinson of the UK’s National Maritime Museum, “is a true and faithful account” [Dan Drollette Jr., “Using Naval Logbooks to Reconstruct Past Weather—and Predict Future Climate,” Bulletin of the Atomic Scientists, Nov. 3, 2014]. The US Navy similarly held logbooks, also called deck logs, to rigorous standards of reporting.
OLD WEATHER PROJECT
Nearly three-quarters of the Earth is covered by oceans, which generate much of the planet’s weather. Around 2010, climate researchers in the UK discovered that old logbooks chronicling the sea voyages of the past were a treasure trove of information about marine conditions over time. “Mariners really care about the weather and have done so for centuries,” explained Philip Brohan, a UK climate scientist who appreciated the military precision and uniformity of Royal Navy logs. Launching the “Old Weather Project,” UK scientists mobilized
volunteers to transcribe and digitize these largely forgotten records, entering details into a dataset that reconstructed global climate patterns.
Seattle scientist Kevin Wood joined forces with Old Weather after meeting Brohan in a pub. Wood brought in the resources of the Joint Institute for the Study of the Atmosphere and Ocean, which included the University of Washington and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). As part of this effort, he set up a team of volunteer “citizen scientists” to comb the logbooks of the US Navy and Coast Guard, housed in the National Archives and available online, for climate observations. According to NOAA, these “weather time machines” were key to constructing predictive models, which benefit modern mariners. Old Weather is one of several lines of investigation that NOAA used to create a profile of global climate over time, called the “Twentieth Century Reanalysis Project.”
“Every ship becomes part of our quest,” Wood commented in 2019. “Because the more data we have, the better the reanalysis will be.” The logbook of the wooden sloop-of-war USS Jamestown, for example, provided new observations helpful to understanding the “Sitka Hurricane” that hit the Alaska Inside Passage in October 1880. Moored in Sitka Harbor at the time of the storm, the Jamestown’s crew recorded hourly details about pressure, wind force, and water temperature from a vantage point directly affected by the storm, offering a comprehensive view of its intensity. The reanalysis revealed that the Sitka storm
was not a hurricane, but part of a larger system called an extra-tropical cyclone. “Old Weather has got to be the most engaging project I’ve ever had the luck to work on,” Wood noted [Marshall, Dec. 13, 2019].
STINKING FOGS AND PLEASANT GALES
Reading, deciphering, and transcribing logbooks was central to the Old Weather Project, which ended in 2020. It wasn’t a simple task. Cracked and faded with age, many of the old volumes were handwritten in hard-to-read cursive. Individual letters in historical handwriting often include decorative flourishes or loops. The letter “s,” which sometimes looks like an “f” in old documents, has often confused me, and the number “7” can easily be mistaken for “4.” Yet the organizers of Old Weather preferred human readers over optical scanners, believing them to be more accurate, especially when checked several times by multiple people.
Archaic terms in early logbooks can also bewilder modern readers. The recordings of Captain George Vancouver, a British naval officer who explored the Northwest Coast, included multiple definitions of the word “gale” in the log of his expedition to the area. One passage dated 1792 described a “gale of wind” that “blew during the night with great violence,” while others mentioned “gentle” and “pleasant gales” of “very light airs.” In my own logs recording the weather in the same area of the B.C. Coast, the words gale, gentle, and pleasant never occur together.
Vancouver’s descriptions predate the Beaufort scale, a system for estimating wind speed and its effects, initially on the sails of a man-of-war. British Royal Navy officer and hydrographer Sir Francis Beaufort developed the scale in 1805 based on observations aboard the HMS Woolwich. The Royal Navy adopted the Beaufort scale in the 1830s, standardizing wind force terms for sailors.
For all their rigor and accuracy, early logbooks contain plenty of human sentiments. Early European mariners sailing the Northwest Coast reveal a variety of emotions in their descriptions of weather: frustration, disappointment,
The Corwin set out to rescue the Jeannette, with naturalist John Muir and Michael Healy (“Hell Roaring Mike”) aboard. Muir later published his observations in his book “The Cruise of the Corwin.”
and fear. Sir Francis Drake, who may have reached as far north as the 48th parallel in his sixteenth-century explorations, reportedly found the rain of the Pacific Northwest to be “an unnatural congealed and frozen substance,” followed by “most vile, thicke and stinking fogges.” According to my own log, a similar observation led to the installation of radar on my 26-foot boat. Vancouver’s crew, too, was given to editorializing when recording the weather, complaining that the expedition’s ships were “harassed with a foul wind,” strong currents, and “very gloomy disagreeable weather.”
LOGBOOK LORE
Some logbooks offer compelling stories with relatable characters, which come through more vividly in the original longhand. “There is a deeper connection when reading something handwritten than when reading the same information in print,” one Old Weather volunteer explained. “Reading the various entries is almost like hearing individual voices… This is real. A real person saw this and wrote this.”
Another volunteer agreed, adding “the stories are just so astonishingly epic.” She transcribed the logbook of the Rodgers, which sailed from San Francisco in 1881 in search of the Jeannette. While the Rodgers managed to evade the ice that destroyed the Jeannette, the
rescue vessel ultimately succumbed to a fire in the Arctic. While the crew and the logbooks were saved, the ship’s dog “One-Eyed Riley” perished in the flames. “He probably would have ended up in the pot anyway,” the volunteer suggested. “Snoozer,” the last sled dog aboard the Jeannette, met a similar fate, providing protein in a “nauseating stew” for the starving crew. These tales reveal the miseries that everyone on board endured.
The fate of Charles Putnam, the Rodger’s 29-year-old master, was particularly heartbreaking. While searching for the Jeannette ashore with two sleds and a year’s provisions, Putman attempted to return to help his shipmates when he heard about the fire that destroyed their ship. A sudden storm separated him from the rest of the party, and Putnam drifted out to sea on a chunk of ice, beyond rescue. He was last seen floating several miles offshore. “It traumatized me for some time,” said one transcriber after reading Putman’s story [Marshall, Dec. 13, 2019].
The logbooks of the Revenue Cutter Bear also yielded dramatic tales along with marine observations. The ship’s best-known captain was a hard-drinking sailor named Michael Augustine Healy, also known as “Hell Roaring Mike” in Alaska lore. Born in Georgia, Healy was the son of a plantation owner and a slave. In the twentieth century, the US Coast
Michael Augustine Healy (“Hell Roaring Mike”), shown here with his parrot, was a career officer with the US Revenue Cutter Service. His adventures as captain of the Bear were legendary in Alaska, inspiring the author Jack London.
Guard recognized him as the first African American to command a federal ship. But during the late nineteenth century, his notoriety stemmed from his reputation as a “tamer of America’s sea frontier,” as Healy was known for his daring rescue of shipwrecked sailors, delivery of mail and medicine to remote regions, and apprehension of smugglers and poachers. Healy, who had commanded the Corwin early in his career, inspired author Jack London’s adventure stories of the Far North.
It is amazing to think that the low-tech
Overland party from the Revenue Cutter Bear rescuing whalers trapped in the ice along the coast of Alaska.
Sir Francis Drake’s voyage took place from 1577-1580, and some historians believe he reached as far north as the 48th parallel. Shows the “ss” appearing as “ff” described in the text.
logbooks of centuries past have helped improve modern weather forecasts, leading to useful, sophisticated tools like PredictWind and WindAlert. And while many of my friends now keep their boat records electronically, I have not given up on my handwritten, water-stained, dog-eared logbooks, some of which include my drawings and memorabilia (such as the dollar bill a friend once jokingly tossed into my mandolin case when I was playing at the dock). Every
ULLMAN SAILS
entry takes me back to the time, place, and sea conditions of my adventures, and I get a glimpse—for good and bad— of the sailor I used to be.
Lisa Mighetto is a historian and meticulous record keeper residing in Seattle. Navy logbooks housed in the National Archives can be viewed here: https://www.archives.gov/research/ military/logbooks/navy-onlinethru-1940
The Revenue Cutter Bear.
MAKING THE LEAP TO MULTIPLE HULLS
by Ken Parker
Do you really want to be heeled for 20 days?” asked Pete McGonagle, one of the foremost experts on oceangoing catamarans, as we consulted about my next boat purchase and the implications for long passages. I thought about it for a moment and considered factors like speed capabilities (where multihulls regularly outperform similar length monohulls), stowage capacity, livability, a stove that doesn’t need to gimbal, and the prospects of being the social magnet at anchor with ample space to entertain. I started to warm to the idea. Also, since I run an expedition sailing school, I could see that a catamaran would also be a great teaching platform for new cruisers considering multihulls.
“But I really like heeling and worry about a multihull’s poor upwind performance… and what about capsize implications?” said a tiny voice in my head. And the ultimate question was, “Will I enjoy sailing a cat as much as a monohull?”
In the end, it was my combined passions for sailing and scuba diving that pushed me over the multihull edge. It is of course possible to scuba dive from a monohull, but it is more logistically complex, given my past experience on monohulls. With the decision made, the search began. The obvious choices— Gunboat, Outremer, Antare—were out of my somewhat meager price range, but the typical production catamaran would likely fall short of my high expectations for oceancrossing capability and as a teaching platform. It was clear that I needed to prioritize my wish list.
Fortunately, I have taught ASA sailing courses on over a dozen monohulls and six catamarans, which gave me a pretty good idea of what I didn’t want. So what did I want? Limited available inventory in the Pacific Northwest made what I wanted less relevant, as there just weren’t many options. Any internet search for ocean-capable catamarans on the west coast typically yielded just a handful of choices. In fact, it was almost a year before the first viable boat showed up.
Nine months into the cat-buying journey, I made my first offer—a 2001 Leopard 48 located in Sidney, B.C. There was no question about the suitability of this design to cross oceans, and after my pre-survey offer was accepted, we scheduled the haul-out. My first lesson in costs associated with handling a multihull quickly followed. It turns out there are only a handful of options to pull a catamaran with a 24-foot beam out of the water in southern British Columbia. While it can be done with a sling or even in some cases a crane, a common option is to lower forms into the water on a boat ramp, adjusted for the boat, and use a tractor to pull the boat out. My surprise came when, at a reputable yard in Canada, the cost was $3,600 for the haul-lout alone. Post survey, it was clear this boat required more work than I was willing to invest in, so I moved on, eating a bit more in cost than I forecast or hoped.
Six months later, the second viable option surfaced through complete luck, and I was able to contact the owner about a
week before the listing went live. This was a very unique French catamaran—a Soubise Plaisance 50 with a rotating carbon fiber mast, skinny hulls, and composite shrouds. The patience was worth it, here was a performance catamaran that had crossed the Atlantic, transited the Panama Canal, sailed to Hawaii and was now in my home waters of the Pacific Northwest. With my pre-survey offer accepted, I scheduled a haul-out in Bellingham, one of two yards in Puget Sound that can haul-out a boat with a 25.5-foot beam. I was delighted to learn that the haul-out was a mere $975, much more reasonable compared to my experience in Sidney. The challenge was that the sling-based lift had a maximum width of 26-feet, so with just inches to spare there wasn’t room for fenders. Though mildly terrifying to watch, the process ended with survey results that seemed workable. Two months later (and after some negotiation), I was the proud owner of Koru
The next set of lessons presented themselves quickly as my partner Renée and I worked to refit and repair in preparation for a three-month cruise to northern British Columbia and Haida Gwaii. In addition to the initial sticker-shock from needing “two of everything” I quickly realized the financial implications of comparatively long runs for things like water, electrical, and sanitation lines.
There was one challenging problem related to catamarans specifically: the very sensitive hydronic diesel heater. ABYC standards allow no more than a 10% drop in voltage and, with a catamaran of this size, if long electrical lines cross hulls and come back, lengths of a single run can exceed 100-feet. Long runs like this can cause voltages to drop significantly. We found that Koru’s heater worked great when the batteries were fully charged, but would error “low voltage” when the battery capacity dropped by about 50%. Many frustrated hours later, we figured out the issue and ran a thicker gauge electrical wire.
The next surprise impact of long runs came when trying to understand the inconsistent performance of Koru’s VacuFlush heads. In her 50-foot hulls with holding tanks in each bow locker, I found that these runs exceed some product specifications. As is so often the case, timing is everything and sadly we did not discover this interesting limitation until we were well underway in British Columbia. Fortunately, we had a wonderful group of friends with us who all pitched in on the troubleshooting activities. One of our guests was even kind enough to write a song about our shared sanitation adventure, complete with ukulele accompaniment, that stills inspires belly laughs among the crew.
No consideration of catamarans is complete without discussing the risks of capsizing. I get asked about this quite often and did a fair amount of my own research. Without citing specific numbers (as no publicly available source provides comprehensive data), the documented cases mostly come from very high performance catamarans in racing situations. Available data suggests that the risks of loss are not higher with either a monohull or a catamaran, the risks are just different. On a monohull, the keel ensures you will sink if you are taking on water but if you’re rolled and the keel stays attached, the boat will right itself and not sink. On a catamaran, if you capsize, it will not sink but it’s highly unlikely the vessel will ever be
A pleasant aspect of sailing Koru is the efficient, narrow slot to help the jib and main work well together and improve upwind performance.
righted again. However, even if one hull is holed in a collision, the boat will stay afloat. Neither (as far as my research supports) is more or less likely of a scenario than the other. In both cases, solid seamanship and being aware of the risks is the safest, most prudent approach.
Now, let’s finally talk about sailing! The first thing I noticed when the sails were up was how different it felt to be moving fast with essentially no heel, both in light winds and in stronger breeze. With 15 knots of wind, we could see very modest heeling, maybe 6-8 degrees, on a beam reach. Not having to “prepare to put out sails” by checking all the level surfaces for potential projectiles was both pleasant and different. The next surprising experience came from just how much the traveler was used for mainsail trim (typical of most catamarans). Koru has a 20-foot traveler and this, it turns out, is a joy to sail with. Powering and depowering the huge mainsail was a breeze as was safely jibing because the mainsheet is typically more tightly sheeted than on a boat with a narrower traveler. During sea trials, we were able to get 6.5 knots of boat speed in 4.5 knots true wind on both a beam reach and a close reach. This has been reinforced many times over since then—the boat is reliably faster than wind up to about 8 knots or so. As we’ve continued getting to know Koru, I’ve found that in 12-16 knots of true wind, we make boat speeds consistently in excess of 10 knots with 14 knots often within reach on points of sail ranging from a broad reach all the way to a close reach, sometimes even into close hauled. This sailing performance, combined with under-power speeds of 9 to 12 knots have opened doors to regular 100-plus nautical mile cruising days that still end at anchor well before dark. The
In addition to its capability and sailing performance, these catamaran converts have loved entertaining new cruising friends while at anchor.
previous owner said that she has 300-mile days in her past.
Other questions that often come up are: Is tacking really that different on a catamaran? And, how high can multihulls point going to weather? On the first question, this is a significant issue on most catamarans. We have gotten stuck in irons a handful of times with the mainsail acting like a giant windvane as Koru tracks disconcertingly backwards. Once we understood precisely how far to overshoot the tack, we have not experienced that problem much since. In lighter winds, backwinding the jib helps significantly. Compared to other production catamarans I’ve taught on, Koru is much better behaved, but I still need to be aware of these nuances when tacking.
On the question of upwind performance, one often overlooked constraint is the placement of the jib cars—if you can’t make an efficient slot between the jib and the main, you just can’t reliably point close to the wind. As an experiment, see how high your monohull will point with the jib completely furled, I think you’ll be surprised. I was! Clearly there are other factors but fundamentally if you can’t shape the jib and make the sails work well together, the boat just won’t point. This is where production catamarans often see their limitations, especially with self-tacking jibs forward of the mast or cars placed too far outboard. For Koru, this is a strength with jib cars positioned closely athwartships and aft of the mast, allowing a narrow slot and a great ability to help the two sails work as one. With the both sails well trimmed and tightly sheeted, she can point close to 35 degrees to the apparent wind. Add her exceptional speed and the associated apparent wind increases in lighter breeze, and VMG upwind is impressive.
Koru has very skinny hulls with extremely low wetted surface area. This increases her mathematical hull speed to around 11 knots (with the capacity for planing when going faster). What we give up for this performance upside is the walk-around queen sized bed in every cabin found in many seemingly similar catamaran options. There are always choices and tradeoffs in boat design, it’s just a matter of your priorities. And like boats of all types, upwind performance is also significantly influenced by underwater appendages. The shape of Koru’s keels is quite aggressive for limiting lateral resistance and have close to (though not quite) the effectiveness of daggerboards found on high performance catamarans.
While upwind performance is an intriguing question on catamarans—mainly because some don’t excel at it—upwind performance also varies widely among monohull designs. That’s certainly been my experience for the three different monohulls I’ve owned and the other monohull designs I’ve used as a sailing instructor. Upwind performance will increase your VMG when you find yourself sailing to weather, and PNW sailors may sail upwind more than counterparts in many other cruising hot spots around the globe. But upwind prowess is seldom priority number one for cruisers who are usually hoping to make most of their miles off the wind and, interestingly, upwind performance doesn’t always correlate with downwind performance. Even by removing the heel from the equation, heading into a seaway is not most cruisers’ idea of a good time. So it doesn’t take long to realize this is not just a monohull-versus-catamaran discussion! I’ll close by returning to my central question, “Will I enjoy sailing Koru as much as my monohull?” The answer is a surprising and resounding “Yes!” I admit this was my biggest concern with a catamaran. Teaching students how to sail a catamaran and watching the relative disappointment of traveling at “only 8 knots” is truly priceless. Add in all the optimizations and tweaks with the rotating mast, the option for a screecher (which is a bit more accessible to newer sailors than a spinnaker), and the space and stability of the platform—and she becomes a true joy on any point of sail.
Finally, I have been both surprised and delighted by the social aspects of Koru. People walk up and ask about her, striking up new conversations everywhere I go. With two large sugar scoop transoms, I even had two paddleboarders visit us at anchor and stay for drinks. Sailing a monohull still tugs at my heart from time to time; but with all of this catamaran’s capabilities, benefits, and outright fun, I don’t spend much wishing for anything else.
Ken Parker, co-owner of Koru Expeditions, is an ASA instructor, ASA Affiliate School director, and PADI dive instructor. This summer Koru can be found touring British Columbia and up to Alaska with the summer of 2026 bringing her to the much warmer waters of Hawaii and the Line Islands/Kiribati. More details can be found at http://www.koru.world
The author has already cruised Koru through British Columbia to Haida Gwaii and back, and says "Yes!" he's enjoying the catamaran at least as much as his previous monohulls!
Photo: Richard Marshall
Photo: Richard Marshall
Photo: Richard Marshall
Photo: Richard Marshall
Photo: Richard Marshall
YOU CAN’T BUY SAFETY
by Schelleen Rathkopf
Catch this,” said US Sailing Safety at Sea course moderator Captain Jonathan Kabak as he tossed a flare to a student in the recent Safety at Sea hands-on training at Marshall Community Center in Vancouver, Washington. “Read the directions loud and clear so everyone can hear.” Catching the flare was the easy part. Reading the directions, not so much. The student squinted painfully and started in slowly with, “Firrrst…re…moove the…cap.” After this one line, the pain got real, and she had no choice but to find her glasses so she could continue reading the small print. Tick. Tock. Tick. Tock.
This illustration with the emergency handheld flare was just one of the course’s many examples of the importance of knowing how to use the safety devices on our boats before we leave the docks. You can buy a lot of safety stuff, but just because it’s there doesn’t mean that it will prove to be useful in an emergency if you have to stop and read the directions.
NUTS NO MORE
After many years of putting it off, I finally took the Safety at Sea class and wanted to share my experience. Margaret Pommert, The Sailing Foundation’s VP of Safety at Sea and member of the US Sailing Safety at Sea Committee, had been inviting me to participate since 2021 when we lost an experienced sailor in an overboard incident at Race Week. Like so many of us, I’d been balking at the idea until I had more time. What a mistake that was. The class proved without a doubt that if we think we can buy safety, we’re nuts. And the time to learn about it is right now.
Safety on our boats is something we need to practice, and something we need to know before we ever set out to sea, whether we’re headed inshore or offshore. The class is officially called the US Sailing International Offshore
Safety at Sea with Hands-on Training, and anyone who finds themselves on boats—whether sail or power, racing or cruising—would benefit from taking it. Sanctioned by US Sailing, the course is presented locally in the Pacific Northwest by the Sailing Foundation. It is composed of an online class, followed by a day-long hands-on class. The cost is $450, which seemed high to me at registration. But after the class? I would have paid double or more because it really is that good.
ONLINE AND IN-PERSON
The online portion is broken into 15 units of pre-recorded videos covering safety topics including safety devices, emergency communications, life raft survival, and more. Students can watch the videos at their own pace, which takes about 12 hours. At the end of each unit, there is a short knowledge test that
includes 10 multiple choice questions. To pass, you must score 80% or higher. The online class serves as a prerequisite to the hands-on course where students spend an entire day practicing and reinforcing what’s been learned.
The Safety at Sea course complies with World Sailing’s Offshore Personal Survival Course guidelines, and passing it is a requirement for many local offshore races including the Van Isle 360 and more. As the national governing body for the sport of sailing, US Sailing is the only organization in the United States sanctioned by World Sailing to issue Safety at Sea certificates.
US Sailing updates the curriculum every year to include lessons learned from recent safety incidents, including those for which an Arthur B. Hanson rescue medal was awarded. In turn, the Sailing Foundation updates the hands-on
Photo by Mike Visser.
curriculum every year, both to align with the national curriculum and to add new learning opportunities for participants returning for their renewal every five years. With The Sailing Foundation’s legacy as the developer of the Lifesling, they also offered an additional half-day of hands-on training in crew overboard rescue to participants the day before the main course.
LIFE ON AN ISLAND
There are things that happen on boats that don’t happen on land. When you cast your lines from the safety of the dock, you’re basically going out to sea on a tiny island, and whether you’re cruising or racing, this island should be equipped with the tools necessary to keep your crew safe and your island afloat when things go sideways.
Just having the safety equipment on board is not enough. Everyone on board should know how to use it, and the time to learn is not at 3 a.m. when your small island is sinking, there’s a fire on board, you’re dealing with a medical emergency, or your crew is considering abandoning ship.
“Everybody pees, poops, sleeps and eats… and some of us menstruate,” shared Captain Kabak during a particularly sensitive topic involving crew health on board our small islands and the impact medical conditions can have on the safety of the crew. Normalizing conversations around this stuff can seriously keep the crew happy and healthy.
NO MORE ENVELOPES
Though I’d never heard of it before the class, some crews use the ‘sealed envelope’ method of collecting information about people’s medical conditions before a big race. This is where the crew completes a medical questionnaire that is placed in a sealed envelope and only opened if they have a medical emergency. The problem is that medical issues on boats can put an entire island population at risk, and being open and honest about your ailments before leaving the dock gives a skipper time to evaluate your risk level and decide if the condition can be accommodated and treated on board if this becomes necessary. So, the sealed
envelope system is no longer considered a good idea. Knowing your crew and their medical (or potential medical) conditions in advance is vitally important in the event of an emergency.
MAY DAY MAY DAY, I DON’T KNOW EVERYTHING
It’s one thing to read about something, but it’s entirely another thing to experience it. For example, back to the simple handheld flare. How many of us have had to strike and hold a flare? Did you know you should have gloves on for this to avoid getting burned? How about tinted glasses if you want to be able to see immediately following the burn out? How many of us know the difference between a May Day or Pan Pan distress call, and how to make such a call in an emergency? How many of us have ever jumped in the water with all our foulies on, and tested our auto-inflating PFD? How about the proper way to inflate a life raft so it doesn’t get punctured on the boat or float away before everyone is safely inside? How about righting a life raft if it flips over? How do you even get in and out of a life raft safely with all your
gear on? Here’s a good one: how many of us have cut super thick rigging using the tools on the boat should we lose the rig and it’s dragging the boat over?
Before the Safety at Sea class, I would have answered every single one of those questions with, “not me.” Like me, you may have spent time reading about boat safety and think you have enough knowledge to get by. But the problem with this thinking is that in an actual emergency at sea, where we’re not in a controlled environment, we may not have the luxury of time on our side to grab our readers and deal with the small print. Knowing this stuff and practicing it beforehand can mean the difference between life and death for ourselves and our crew.
SHELF LIFE
You may have all the fancy safety gadgets on board, but could be unaware that some need to be serviced or are beyond their expiration date. This is the stuff we don’t think of until there is a real emergency on board. The bottom line is that bad things happen to good people. Boats hit objects out at sea. People
The author (left) and another Safety at Sea student can now say they do know what it's like to set off a handheld flare.
Moderator Jonathan Kabak's chalk talk.
INTERNATIONAL OFFSHORE SAFETY AT SEA COURSE
Online Curriculum
Presented by the US Sailing Safety at Sea Committee
Unit 1: Giving Assistance
Unit 2: Personal Safety Gear
Unit 3: Crew Overboard
Unit 4: Emergency Communications
Unit 5: Search and Rescue
Unit 6: Crew Health
Unit 7: Cold Exposure
Unit 8: Care & Maintenance of Safety Equipment
Unit 9: Signaling
Unit 10: Marine Weather
Unit 11: Fire Safety
Unit 12: Heavy Weather
Unit 13: Storm Sails
Unit 14: Damage Control and Repair
Unit 15: Life Raft and Survival
HANDS-ON TRAINING SESSIONS
Presented by The Sailing Foundation
• Giving Assistance
• Personal Safety Gear
• Care and Maintenance of Safety Gear
• Fire Safety and Firefighting
• Crew Health
• Damage Control
• Search and Rescue
• Signals and Pyrotechnics
• Emergency Communications
• Pool Training
have on board medical emergencies. Boat systems fail. There are rig failures. And crews fall overboard. When these things happen—and they will happen— knowing what to do will alleviate panic and potentially save lives.
100 STORIES AND PLEASE, NO MORE PLUGS
There were 100 people participating in the hands-on training day. Esther Goodell from Seattle was there because she is sailing on the TP52 MIST for Van Isle 360 and needed the completion certificate. Kat McCoy of the Catalina 36 Mata Hari was in my group, and she was taking the refresher as her skipper wanted more people on board to have the safety training. High school civics teacher and fourth grade girls’ basketball coach Ginnie Jo Blue is racing Van Isle 360 on the J/99 One Life and said, “I’m a mountain climber, and I just love to suffer!”
For one exercise involving crew assessments of medical emergencies, I got paired up with Race to Alaska sailor Dave White who sailed on Team Monkey Fist in 2023. Here, Dave was pretending to be lying on the deck of the boat complaining of severe lower abdominal pain. I was assigned to figure out if a medical evacuation might be necessary, so I started with the faux assessment. On a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being no pain, and 10 being unbearable pain) Dave shared that he was at a 7. That was certainly a lot of pain. Was he experiencing internal bleeding? A ruptured spleen or appendix? He had no other symptoms such as fever or vomiting. I concluded that Dave needed to get into a comfortable bunk down below while another crew member continued to monitor his condition. Wrong! It was here that the instructor
reminded me that the number one question to ask the patient in this type of situation would be, “Dave, when was the last time you pooped?”
Funny, but It turns out that Dave wasn’t bleeding internally and wouldn’t need a USCG medical evacuation after all. He just needed to drink lots of water and get himself to the head! Before the class, I didn’t know what ‘The Plug’ meant. But after the class it was crystal clear. Some racers are uncomfortable using a boat head and so they essentially hold off going number two until they get to their destination and can use a real toilet. Due to the toxic nature of this happenstance, it’s important to normalize the conversation about using the head, and to make sure everyone on board is healthy and making regular visits to the head. Some crews have adopted the gold star board for this reason, and crew members get a gold star for going number one and two gold stars for going number two. You can’t make this stuff up!
IF I’M NOT HELPING, I’M DEAD WEIGHT
At lunch, Dave shared a time he was climbing Mt. Baker and came upon a group of climbers who had given up their summit bids to help a woman and her daughter who were in distress. He was so impressed by how many people put off their own pursuits to help someone in need. Watching this, he realized just how few first aid and safety skills he had to add to the effort. It was here that he decided that he was no longer going to accept being a liability to his team, but rather he would learn as many safety skills as he could so he would be able to help people if they needed it.
I also met Michael Kalahar from Port Angeles who races his J/80 Litonya. He
Getting into a life raft is important to practice.
The author demonstrates deploying a life raft.
was taking the Safety at Sea course as a refresher and shared that he nearly died following an incident in the Pacific Ocean while cruising from Puerto Vallarta to Tahiti in 2010 on Wind Child, a Beneteau 36s7. They were 400 miles offshore and he was on deck during an accidental jibe, and the mainsheet caught his head and neck and pinned him down only after he banged his head into a winch. This caused his trachea to collapse, and he lost consciousness. As this happened, he bit his tongue in half and could no longer swallow. He was one of six crew on board, and one was a certified EMT, who started CPR while another crew called the Coast Guard for evacuation. Three Air Force para jumpers (PJs) responded and transferred Kalahar to a freighter that was nearby for three days. On board the freighter, the PJs stayed with him and continued treatment for the head injury until they got him back to shore where he was immediately transferred to a hospital.
This incident was clearly a wakeup call that accidents do happen to experienced sailors while at sea. For Kalahar, he lived to tell the story, but had serious PTSD and
COB survivor Katie talks about pulling a Lifesling too quickly.
didn’t go sailing again for five years. With his wife’s encouragement, he got back out there with club racing, and later did Oregon Offshore in 2021, and Swiftsure in 2023. His next race is Van Isle 360, which he is doing with sailmaker and marine business owner, Dan Kaseler, and his team of highly skilled sailors. Kalahar is the designated safety officer
on the team and takes his position very seriously. He last took the Safety at Sea class in 2008 and wanted a refresher going into his summer adventure.
SAFETY FIRST
If you’re on a boat—and whether you are a professional or recreational racer, cruiser, sailor, or power boater—take the class. The rewards are just so great, and with practice, safety first can really be a thing.
For more information, and to sign up be notified when the next course is scheduled, visit The Sailing Foundation’s Safety at Sea page: thesailingfoundation. org/what-we-do/safety-at-sea/
Schelleen Rathkopf is the Producer of Race Week, a Director of Pacific Coast Yachting Association, and the Distribution & Advertising Manager of Waggoner Cruising Guide and Ports & Passes. Previously, she served as the Editor of Northwest Yachting magazine, and Event Producer of the Boats Afloat Show on Lake Union in Seattle. Schelleen owns a 56-foot offshore yacht, and lives aboard in Seattle.
48° NORTH BOAT TEST
HALLBERG-RASSY 40C
by Joe Cline
It’s a rare occurrence for me to conduct a boat test and have an experience far from expectations. Some, I know I’ll love from the jump. Others, I know I’m really exploring how well a boat does the job it sets out to do and the audience it sets out to serve, even if perhaps it’s not for me. But a small handful of tests, which now includes the Hallberg-Rassy 40C, bring me aboard boats I didn’t know I should have been dreaming about. In this case, the 40C’s distinct character and class, its comfort and cavernous full-beam aft stateroom, its complex construction and celerity under sail—welcome to my dreams, Hallberg-Rassy 40C. Of course, I am well aware of the Swedish builder’s bluewater reputation, and I expected to revere the 40C’s cruising chops. I just didn’t know it would be such a delight to sail.
The Hallberg-Rassy DNA is on display everywhere on the 40C. Lots of the standards that the company is known for are still employed—a fiberglassed hull-to-deck joint, rods supporting the stanchions set down into that joint, and a true commitment to keeping water out of the cabin thanks to a deck-stepped mast (with compression post below), and real glass employed for dodger windows. These more traditional build practices, though, share this vessel with some distinctly modern design elements. From the hull shape carrying nearly its full beam aft to a fin bulb keel diving deeper than six feet, from an adjustable backstay to a bowsprit for flying sails including a dedicated code zero tack and a spinnaker tack a good 24 inches farther forward; from a below deck jib furler to twin rudders. Intriguing. I arrived at the boat to find local Hallberg-Rassy dealer, Ryan Helling, already aboard with the boat’s beaming owner, Boris. It’s a special boat that leaves the owner this excited a year after he’s taken delivery! Spring sun splashed down all around, but it wasn’t very windy, nor was it forecast to be that way. I made a couple of comments about the conditions not allowing us to see what the boat can really do, eliciting responses of, “You may be surprised,” offered with knowing smirks.
The “C” in 40C stands for center cockpit, but I admit, I didn’t put that together until I stepped down into it. Hallberg-Rassy worked to keep the cockpit low for aesthetic purposes and also for safety. To my eye, it looks like a happy compromise between what comes to mind when I think of a more conventional center cockpit and an aft cockpit, and I don’t think the boat will read “center cockpit” at first glance, even for some experienced sailors.
No one would mistake the cockpit itself as an entertaining space for big parties, but the aft deck, especially with the pulpit “Gin and Tonic” seats, provides ample room to hang out and welcome others aboard. This aft deck is more than just spacious though, it’s also home to a pair of clever draining lockers and a streamlined integral davits system flanking the drop-down transom with a thoughtful little step to mitigate the high freeboard. This boat had a grill installed on the starboard aft quarter, which would be my kind of post for dinners on the hook.
Is it easy? There’s electric everything, controlled either from the winches or from the binnacle, making shorthanded sailing ever more within reach for mere mortals. The electronic array at the helm is legitimately cutting edge, with more controls than I could have hoped to understand on day one. This 40C’s beautifully finished hard dodger leaves excellent sightlines— there’s easily 18 inches of space between the top of the dodger and the boom, which was right where my gaze landed when standing at the helm. The helm itself is raised a step from the cockpit sole, under which is a compartment for the life raft. Lines run neatly under the deck from the mast and back to the cockpit. It’s cozy, comfortable, and everything is in its right place.
The 40C’s rig employs three spreaders with a gentle sweep, and still has a backstay (including its well-rigged cascade of tackle allowing for adjustment!). A pleasant aspect of this rig choice is that the lower shrouds are set inboard along the cabintop, meaning there’s a wide, easy path forward down the side deck.
We got ready to cast off, reversing into a narrow marina fairway. I was ready to jump into action with a roving fender, but
was quickly relegated back to just looking pretty, thanks to the boat’s bow and stern thrusters. Rounding the breakwater, we found a little more breeze than I worried there might be, about 5-6 knots. The spring sun made a truly gorgeous day, with both the Seattle skyline and the shape of the Olympic foothills in view. As is always the case, there was an eagerness to illustrate how easy it is to get the main out with the furler. Yup, no issue. Jib unfurled too, and we were zero to sailing in no time flat.
Alright, in this review full of superlatives, I’ll say it. The HR 40C’s Elvstrom Fat Furl main with vertical battens was the best looking in-mast furling sail I’ve seen to date—in both material and, importantly, in shape. It has a long foot length, something I appreciate in furling mains because it makes me feel like I can manipulate the shape more effectively. In its application on the 40C, though, the main’s notable attribute was power—and more of it than I anticipated.
In the light air, this 24,250-pound beast with a 13-plus foot beam didn’t exactly light up, but very quickly, we were actually sailing, efficiently making speed between 3.5 and 4.5 knots close hauled. That would have been serviceable on a race boat in those conditions, but this is a stout bluewater cruiser. The 105% jib sheets to traditional tracks just outboard of the inner shrouds; no self-tackers here, which means the designers knew people are going to actually sail this boat frequently and for long distances. This track position allows for a sheeting angle I’d estimate in the mid teens (narrower and more efficient than many cruising boats). I liked the end-boom sheeting for the main and the nice, wide traveler that runs just aft of the cockpit.
The boat’s balance under sail was remarkable. You don’t get the traditional weather helm feel because of the twin rudders, but the German Frers design was so comfortable in its own skin that on multiple occasions we changed drivers by simply walking away from the wheel while someone else stepped into place, no autopilot, no worries. Don’t fall off this thing solo, it doesn’t need you to keep sailing beautifully!
As we bit westward into Puget Sound, we found a little more breeze, which clocked north in the afternoon warmth. We had rigged the code zero before leaving the dock and, as we eased off the breeze, the big black sail unfurled smoothly. Now we were cooking. It was a lovely sail (not every code zero looks this good, even when new), and our speed quickly increased to 5.5 knots. We played around, sailing as deep as a broad reach (though not going so far as to ease the halyard) and up to a close reach, which was where the code really impressed in the light breeze. Achieving boat speed equal to the windspeed on your bluewater boat will bring a grin to anyone’s face—6.5 knots in
Sitting or standing, visibility from
as
6.5 knots. Just, wow.
Genuine luxury, especially in a 40-foot boat. The 40C's aft stateroom is tough to beat.
Of course, the day didn’t provide the chance to test the boat in really rough stuff, but so much of the design reflects HallbergRassy’s know-how and commitment to ocean readiness, that I know it would be confidence inspiring even in the snottiest conditions.
But wait, with this genuine sailing prowess, is it comfy and cruiseable? The mind boggles. The fine finish work in the cabin wasn’t a surprise, but is still a sight to behold. If you come across more artfully crafted wooden handrails, I’d love to see them. There’s no doubt that the centerpiece of the Hallberg Rassy 40C’s interior is the full-beam aft stateroom with a very large centerline bed, accessible from either side. I’ve seen the like before, but not in a 40-footer. More than spacious, no detail has been left unattended, and the above-berth window was dreamworthy on its own.
The main salon leans traditional, and is flawlessly executed and function-forward. There are options for galley size, and this 40C had the “extra large” galley with all the bells and whistles like a dishwasher, but is still a snug seagoing galley with good places to brace and hold on. I appreciated the blend of storage above the settees and then bay-style windows adjacent that extend to the hull and provide the sense of space. There were at least a few inches of headroom for my 6-foot frame in the main salon, though I didn’t quite have full standing headroom in the luxurious aft stateroom. Another swanky berth and the head with shower are forward.
The interior hardware is exceptional as well, from the engine room providing excellent access to the 55-horsepower diesel to the solid rod steering system, from the solid wood finish work to some of the cleanest electrical panels imaginable supporting the array of luxuries like the clothes washer and dryer.
Ultimately, the 40C’s interior is liveable in the most literal sense—I’d live there. It’s a great sailing boat, and not just for its category. And it should be just as ocean-worthy as its long line of sea-sturdy predecessors. This boat does so much, offers so much, in what is a fairly compact package by modern voyaging standards. This is not a budget cruising boat option, but as I got to know the Hallberg-Rassy 40C, I couldn’t help but feel that it still delivers a lot of value. Caught in my own expectations, I was beyond impressed. I’ll be dreaming about the boat. How about you?
Joe Cline has been the Managing Editor of 48° North since 2014. Thanks to Ryan from Swiftsure Yachts and Boris for the fun sail.
the helm is excellent,
is access to the full array of sail controls. And reaching with the code zero is just plain fun.
RELAXATION IN HOME WATERS
by Carol McCreary
CRUISING SOME ALL-TIME FAVORITES IN THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS
With seven round trips to Alaska and oodles of other Salish Sea and Inside Passage cruising on both their Valiant 40, Aurora, and now their Nordic Tug 37, Morning Light, Carol and Jack have an enviable library of sea stories. But sometimes, the best cruises don’t make for wild tales. What they do provide, though, is the restorative, transformative, and invigorating slice of boat life so many of us seek when casting off. Here is one such tale from this pair of well-traveled cruisers enjoying their home waters in a mode of easy-going exploration.
After a couple of days recovering from the exhilaration and exhaustion that the Wooden Boat Festival brings, we headed north to the San Juan Islands on flat water from our homeport of Port Townsend. A mere five hours later, we anchored Morning Light , our Nordic Tug 37, in a little nook in Reid Harbor with noisy kingfishers, a patient heron standing on one leg, and vultures soaring on the thermals. Jack figured that the late summer drought had left some carrion on the golden grass among the madrone and fir trees. This is what we wanted. We were close enough to the border to be without reliable internet access, but weren’t rocking and rolling like we would have been on Sucia, Matia, or Patos.
We sat down with our books, interrupted only by food. Finally, I could dig into boatbuilder Diana Talley’s memoir, “Center of Buoyancy.” After a while, I launched my paddleboard while Jack, who lives with a spinal cord injury, worked out in his makeshift gym in the cockpit.
Before paddling away, I noticed that the green growth at Morning Light’s waterline was not so bad, but I could see that the undersides of the rub rails needed cleaning. I deployed the fenders to have something to hold onto and scrubbed away before making my way to the beach for a hike.
I took the steps up through the woods to the top of the hill above Morning Light, before walking over to Prevost
Harbor. Across the water at one of Stuart Island’s permanent settlements, a boat was unloading supplies. Year-round island residents are rugged folks. They manage their own electricity, water supply, sanitation (including charming outhouses that are grandfathered into the San Juan County codes), and homeschooling because there are not
Jack works out in the cockpit gym in Reid Harbor.
Serene and swanky with historical verve, Roche Harbor's popularity is well-earned.
enough kids to keep the schoolhouse open. Eventually, I found a trail that led back to the south end of the park, where Jack was still working out in the cockpit.
As the moon rose one evening, M/V Westward dropped anchor next to a sister restored yacht, Catalyst. When they’re not cruising north in summers (where we’ve encountered both frequently) or south in winter, these ships spend time in Port Townsend, proudly exhibiting the craft of our local shipwrights.
ROCHE HARBOR
For an utter change of scenery, we crossed Spieden Channel to Roche Harbor on San Juan Island for a couple of nights. Roche was a memorable stop on our first ever cruise north so many years ago. The historic company town from the 1860s has been spiffed up into a real resort, but it’s still a place where traditions remain mostly intact. As we docked in front of the chapel, the carillon rang out traditional tunes to mark the noon hour.
The guest moorage space was quite empty and offered unbroken views. We stepped off the boat to explore the headquarters of San Juan Island’s prosperous lime trade, which contributed to the building of towns from here to San Francisco. We walked among the U.S. and Canadian flags that line the docks and walkways, remembering the ceremony that concludes every day at Roche Harbor.
The bar off the formal dining room where locals and regulars gather was, happily, roll-in accessible via the yellow brick road in front of Hotel de Haro. We found a table with the perfect view. The first night it was drinks and then a walk, the second was a walk followed by drinks and a light meal—all at the same perfect
table.
Sunset in Roche Harbor is always impressive. We watched the dock crews remove the American and Canadian flags from the wharves, paths, and roof of the company store. Then, “God Save the King” and “O Canada” were played as the British and Canadian flags were lowered from the yardarm. Standing at attention along with the resort staff were the crews of visiting boats, including a US Coast Guard vessel that had stopped by to refuel. Anyone who had not been paying attention now was. In the silence, a bugler played “Taps” as the United States flag was lowered and furled against the setting sun.
Re-tethered to the internet, I searched for M/V Paspatoo, a wooden yacht that stands out among the plastic behemoths that moor here. Scrolling down its webpage, I discover an appreciation of the Port Townsend shipwrights who restored her. Among the dozens of names are members of Diana Talley’s crew, who she features in her book. Ours is a small, interwoven community, isn’t it?
JONES ISLAND
The next day, we departed for Jones Island State Park. Jones serves kayakcampers and accommodates boats in coves on its north and south ends. The north cove has a small dock with a ramp leading to the island. One of the joys of offseason cruising is finding dock space. As we tied up, crews from State Parks, San Juan County, and one of their contractors greeted us. While I reassembled Jack’s scooter next to Morning Light, I thanked them for ensuring Jones Island’s remarkable accessibility and promised to let them know if anything could be
Washington State Parks has done a great job making Jones Island welcoming to campers and cruisers of all ages and abilities.
improved.
As it turns out, everything was perfect. A smooth path winds through largely old growth forest to the south cove and the accommodations were pristine. The longdrop composting toilets have windows, skylights, and long wooden ramps. The two Adirondack shelters now have concrete floors. We admired the freshly painted green interiors, noting that the bottom sleeping platforms have been set at slightly different heights to better serve a variety of people, including those who use wheelchairs.
Near both the north and south bays are fairly large pavilions with picnic tables and plenty of space around them for pitching tents. Everything must be packed in and out, though well water flows at certain times of the year. Jones Island is a gem of natural beauty, and a thoughtfully executed public resource for all to enjoy.
BLIND BAY
From Jones, we headed east through lovely Wasp Passage into Cayou Channel (formerly Harney Channel) wondering when we’d encounter our first ferry. As we neared our destination, the ferry Yakima pulled out of the Shaw Island landing and confused us by turning around before it headed to Orcas Landing across the pass. Most Washington State car ferries alternate bow and stern as they shuttle between two terminals.
The landings on Orcas and Shaw lie very close together across a sliver of sea through which four Washington State Ferry routes pass, sharing the water with kayaks, SUPs, rowboats, recreational and commercial fishing vessels, construction barges, local government and mail boats,
Passing Washington State Ferries gently rock boats at anchor in Blind Bay. Watching the maneuvers of these big ships in Cayou Channel is both intriguing and instructive.
and all manner of vacationing sail and power craft. Transiting this passage calls for careful navigation. Though not as large as the B.C. Ferries, the four vessels connecting San Juan County to the mainland range between 310 and 382 feet.
As we settled into our anchorage in Shaw Island’s Blind Bay and the sun sank behind the quiet shoreline foliage, I could count cars through my binoculars—a single vehicle disembarked the ferry on Shaw. Such is life in the islands during the peaceful offseason.
WATMOUGH BAY
Escaping Blind Bay’s rocking and rolling from ferry traffic, we cruised through Thatcher Pass, and continued along the squirrely waters of Rosario Strait. Ahead of us was an enormous oil tanker being escorted by a huge tug headed toward the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the ocean beyond. The Anacortes refinery receives crude oil from Canada’s Trans Mountain pipeline, trains from North Dakota and the Midwest, and tankers from Alaska and beyond. And here was the final product underway. All were reminders of how
much fossil fuel is being consumed— including by Morning Light—and how hard it’s going to be to mitigate climate change before it’s too late.
As we motored into exquisite Watmough Bay at the southeast corner of Lopez Island, we watched a dozen turkey vultures soaring high above the cliff that dominates the north side of the bay. We choose one of the three mooring buoys that are provided free of charge by Washington's Department of Natural Resources. Watmough Bay and its beloved beach where locals gather every afternoon is cooperatively managed by the San Juan County Land Bank, the San Juan Preservation Trust, and the federal Bureau of Land Management.
Sitting on the bow as the boat slowly swung, I bathed in the intermittent warm sun and cool shade. Moments before it disappeared under the horizon, the sun cast a red glow on the rocky mountain ridge that lies in front of Mt. Baker. The perfect views just kept coming, and I thought about how lucky we are to live and cruise here, and to call these watery surroundings our home.
When it was time to leave, we floated
away on flat water with less than 5 knots of wind, conditions that would have been disappointing on our Valiant 40, but are most welcome for Morning Light. Soon, though, we encounter fog—a whiteout thick enough to cut with a knife. We set our course on the yellow marker where the shipping lanes from Rosario and Haro straits meet those of Admiralty Inlet and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We came upon the yellow buoy just in time to slip by and get a close-up of the sea lions hauled out there.
Fortunately, the vessel traffic was light on this busy corridor connecting the Salish Sea with distant ports. Grateful for our AIS transmission signaling Morning Light’s position, we received a request from a commercial ship to pass starboard to starboard, and a call from a sailor who gave his coordinates because his AIS was down. We couldn’t see either of them, nor could we see the Point Wilson lighthouse as we crept past. Less than a mile beyond, however, the fog dissipated just enough for us to make out the chimney of our house.
Over many years, we’ve cruised some of the most wildly remote and unambiguously grand locations in the Pacific Northwest, indeed in the world. We’d never trade any of that experience and will relish the chance to explore those regions again. But here we were, closing out a relaxing little jaunt only miles from home—just as satisfied, just as grateful, just as happy as ever.
Carol McCreary and her spouse, Jack, took up sailing in their 60s. Having recently transitioned from sail to power, they look forward to the bonus years out on the water.
Alpenglow on the Cascades, a perfect view from Watmough Bay to end this trip.
The AquaDrive system solves a problem nearly a century old; the fact that marine engines are installed on soft engine mounts and attached almost rigidly to the propeller shaft.
The very logic of AquaDrive is inescapable. An engine that is vibrating
on soft mounts needs total freedom of movement from its propshaft if noise and vibration are not to be transmitted to the hull. The AquaDrive provides just this freedom of movement. Tests proved that the AquaDrive with its softer engine mountings can reduce vibration by 95% and structure borne noise by 50% or more. For information, call Drivelines NW today.
SPRING DONE SPRUNG
CYC POD AND PSSR
It’s not really spring in Seattle until Corinthian Yacht Club of Seattle (CYC) gets boats large and small around the buoys for their spring regattas. This year, CYC divided the fleets differently for several reasons (including to give a certain contingent a chance to sail both their 22.5-foot sport boats and their go-fast grand prix behemoths). So this year, the PNW One Design Regatta (POD) closed out March on its last weekend, while the formerly-two-weekend Puget Sound Spring Regatta (PSSR) consolidated to a single weekend in mid-April.
POD
Though POD Regatta isn’t entirely new for CYC, its place on the calendar and fleet draw might as well be. And it’s the first time POD has run in a few years. POD 2025 brought out 15 boats in the rapidlygrowing J/70 fleet as well as the stalwart J/105s.
Saturday of POD saw overcast skies, light-to-moderate southerlies, and a hefty flood in the afternoon, making for some seriously tactical racing. With the breeze lightening as the clouds burned off, big shifts came into play as well. Four different J/70 teams took race wins
in Saturday’s five races, and the same was true among the J/105s in their four contests. Variable conditions and competitive fleets often means sharing the wins with your fellow racers! Sunday provided more of the same, but with a little extra sunshine and a stronger northerly breeze pushing into the teens. There was enough wind for the J/70s to have their jibs out in “lazy plane” mode working hard to keep bows and boat speeds up. Over the course of the day, the battle for the top spot took shape between longtime J/Pod sailor, Boris Luchterhand, and his team on Riff, and
the well-known and accomplished pair of Dalton and Lindsay Bergan, who are relative newcomers to the local J/70 fleet, sailing Mossy. It came down to the final race, with the Riff crew taking the bullet and besting the Bergans on a tiebreaker.
Among the J/105s, Jeffrey Pace’s Liftoff team cruised to the top of the podium, showing speed and smarts with their pair of bullets to begin Sunday’s windier races, which gave them just enough buffer to hold off Mark Prentice and crew on Panic, and a charging Shauna Walgren and Al Hughes sailing Creative who won the final two Sunday races.
J/70s pop their kites at a windward mark. Turning marks are always busy in this fleet. Photo courtesy of YachtRacing.tv
With 15 boats on the line, starts were hotly contested. Note the shift enabling port-tack starts for the lead boats. Photo courtesy of YachtRacing.tv
Photo by Catlin Gibson.
PSSR drew the biggest, fastest race boats on Puget Sound, as well as several dinghy classes.
Photo by Catlin Gibson.
PSSR
PSSR drew dinghies and ORC-rated boats. Oh and the J/105s just can’t get enough and came back for a second helping of spring buoy racing. The ORC fleet was divided into the very big and very fast (TP52s and a few others), the pretty big and also fast (from Terremoto to a J/111), and the not so big but still pretty fast (from a Farr 30 to a J/80). Sharing the course with the bigger boats
The class of the smallest ORC-rated boats had a wide rating spread, but speed differentials don't mean starts can't be competitive as ever.
Photo by Catlin Gibson.
were Stars, Tasars, and Aeros. Cool to see such a wide array!
After a short delay, things got underway in southerly breeze centered in the high single digits. The committee was able to get one race scored. They started another one that was eventually abandoned.
A more consistent northerly graced the fleet on Sunday, and allowed for more races to be scored in each class. Around the fleet, top honors went to TP52 Glory,
King 40 Hydra, J/112e Mystery, J/105 Moose Unknown, Dan Falk among the Aeros, Dave Watt and Andrew de Andrade won the Star class, and Jay and Lisa Renehan topped the always competitive Tasar fleet.
Congrats to all competitors and thanks to the club and the committees for getting the 2025 buoy racing season off to a great start.
Full results at cycseattle.org
BLAKELY ROCK BENEFIT RACE
A LIGHT AIR COIN TOSS
Ilove a good light air race. The speeds and the forces are low, and the strategy is tough. Light air sailing takes a combination of patience and focus that just suits me well. However, there is light air and then sometimes there is no air—and a bit of both characterized this year’s Carol Pearl Blakely Rock Benefit Race, which was hosted by the Sloop Tavern Yacht Club on Saturday, April 5, and raised funds for Sound Experience. As always, this event drew a big crowd of enthusiastic participants, with 71 boats starting the race, divided into 12 classes.
The starting line was right up against the breakwater at Shilshole Bay Marina. There was a little bit of southerly breeze at the pin end of the start line, but over by the committee boat there was none. Onboard my B-25, Blur, the wind gauge read a solid, unforgiving, 0.0 knots. So, the obvious place to start was at the pin end.
For reasons that I can’t fully explain, I steered us over to the committee boat side of the start in an effort to clear the start line. Not a good plan. When the start horn went off, we were completely stalled out behind the committee boat on port tack and we ended up starting a solid
five minutes or so behind the smart folks, instantly playing a game of catch up. The good news is that the breeze filled a little and held, and we worked our way up to Magnolia Bluff, sailing faster and higher than most of the fleet of 20-somethingfoot cruiser-racers and ULDBs. We got up to Magnolia, and then tacked over to head to West Point. As we came up to West Point, the wind rotated to the east and we got lifted up to a heading pointing right at the rock.
The ride up to the rock was pretty steady with no major wind holes or issues. We sailed it pretty well, and continued making ground on the competition ahead. The folks who got to the rock early sailed into a hole, and we ended up catching up with those who had the early lead. We rounded the rock in excellent position, in contention for the top places in our fleet. We set the chute and headed downwind along the shore of Bainbridge Island. This is where it all went wrong for us. There were basically two routes back to Meadow Point: along the shore of Bainbridge or east toward downtown Seattle. Most of the fleet was going to the east side. We stayed west because the
by Tom Perry
wind looked pretty solid. There was a flat, windless spot we had to cross, and then we thought we would be home free to make it the rest of the way to Meadow Point. We watched some boats make it across the dead spot, so we tried to do the same. It didn’t work. We got about halfway across and came to a complete stop and watched all the boats on the east side sail past us. We could see wind on the water about 300 yards away—so tantalizingly close!
We sat in that hole until a kindly breeze came along and we scooted downwind again. In relatively short order, we were making 6 knots and flying past boats on the east side. That wind held up all the way down to Meadow Point. We rounded the mark and sailed back up to the nearby finish in reasonably good form, taking fourth place in our class. Not too shabby. I’m counting myself lucky for that. It was a very tricky day of sailing. The weather was gorgeous and our biggest concern was reapplying sunscreen, so all-in-all it’s safe to call this a beautiful day of racing.
Full results at styc.org.
You can read more of Tom’s race reports, including a longer version of this story, at blur-racing.com
The author, left, says he loves a good light air race, and this was definitely one of 'em.
Crossing the windless hole downwind returning from the Bainbridge side.
MAY 24 – 25, 202
swiftsure.org #swiftsure
I NTER NATI O NAL YACHT R ACE SWIF
TSURE 2025
Three Long Courses
• Swiftsure Lightship Classic, PHRF NW
• Cape Flattery, PHRF NW & ORC
• Juan de Fuca, Monohull & Multihull, PHRF NW
• Inshore Course, PHRF BC
In honor of the 80th running of the Swiftsure Lightship Classic, The Skippers Meeting and 2024 Prize Giving will be held at the Royal Victoria Yacht Club, 3475 Ripon Road, Victoria, B.C., 2:00–5:00 pm, Friday May 23, 2025.
REGISTRATION OPENS
Monday, February 3 rd 2025 at swiftsure.org/ registration
by
Photo
Jill Fitz Hirschbold
SLOW-MOTION, FAST-MOTION
SOUTHERN
STRAITS 2025
Southern Straits is always held over Easter Weekend and this year Easter was in late April, just about the latest possible date for the first Sunday after the first full moon after the first day of spring. Would that mean a warmer, gentler Southern Straits? It was definitely warmer in general, except that 35-40 knots doesn’t feel warm, regardless of the air temperature around here.
We were racing on Ripple, our new-to-us Bieker designed 1996 Riptide 35 MkI. After a few false starts with very light winds and a few things to sort out on the boat since we acquired her late last summer, this was to be our first proper race: The 100-mile Sisters Islets long distance course for ORC rated boats.
With some reformatted race course options this year, racers had three distance race options: The Sisters Islets course we had chosen, as well as the 55-mile Entrance Island course, and the 36-mile Halibut Bank course. The distance courses drew 66 boats in total and an inshore option had an additional four race boats.
The night before the traditional Friday start, Bruce Hedrick gave the racers at West Vancouver Yacht Club a weather blessing, which I will summarize as very light wind during the day and really windy all night. My hope was that we would have at least enough wind to start on time and get out of English Bay. Wish granted! Twenty minutes before the start, a 4-5 knot westerly showed up. That combined with a knot of favorable current, meant that: First, we had no issues beating out of the bay; and
by Justin and Chris Wolfe
Photo by Randy Vogel.
J/122 Joy Ride sailed a brilliant race, holding on for second in class and in ORC overall for the Sisters Islets Course.
Photo by Matt Wagstaffe.
Thankfully, there was enough breeze to get the fleet off the start line on time and out of the bay. Photo by Shane Austin.
second, everyone was still very conservative at the start, for fear of drifting over early and not being able to get back to restart. That meant there were just a few risk-tolerant front row starters and a bit of a crowded third row.
Getting out of the Bay in 3-7 knots of wind was illuminating for us on Ripple. This was our first proper lineup with similarly rated boats in general, and we were excited to put our new J1.5 jib to the test. It turns out our little 29-year-old 35 footer is stupid fun to sail in light air as we led the 16 Division 1 boats out of English Bay, happily staying close to the 2012 Riptide 35 MkII, Longboard (who was sailing in Division 0).
Then, it got lighter. Fortunately, we never stopped moving along the mainland shore, and it was never truly frustrating as it seemed everyone around us was experiencing the same conditions. It was just a sailboat race happening in slow motion at times.
It was about 5 p.m. when the forecast northwesterly showed up, and we enjoyed a super pleasant evening sailing upwind in 5-10 knots, still heading west-northwest across the strait since the fleet hadn’t made much progress in the light air. As the breeze filled and boat speeds became more interesting, Ripple was joined by a nice group that included the J/122e Joy Ride, XP-44 Phoenix, J/111 65 Red Roses II, Tripp 41 Bandit, and J/133 Blue Jay III. We were pleased to find our boat speed was reasonable, and we could just focus on sailing fast and covering the competition. Competition that kept wanting to bang to the right side of the course. What was so enticing about that side?
When the breeze reached 14 knots, knowing it would continue
to increase, we switched jibs. While the jib change went okay, we lost the plot on the strategy, tacking left to complete the peel and then forgetting to cover. Continuing southwest after the change, a 30 degree right shift arrived roughly 45 minutes later. While we had lost a few minutes switching jibs, we had just lost a few miles being on the outside of this huge shift. That was definitely not one of our smartest moves. Oops.
It got dark as we approached the south end of Lasqueti Island, and as it often happens, the breeze increased to a solid 15-20. The last 6 miles to Sisters was a little bit of a hate mission, made even more challenging since to date we had zero experience sailing Ripple upwind in over 15 knots, doublehanded (I believe we were the only doublehanded boat in the long course this year. Bummer). The group of five Division 1 boats rounded Sisters about 6 miles ahead of us, and most of them, with one exception, threw up whatever small, heavy kite they had and strapped in for a guaranteed thrill ride for 50 miles back to the finish. On Ripple, we were happy to finally have a boat with an A5 kite. It is tiny and perfect for what was now breeze mostly in the low 20s and forecast to continue building.
The route back home included rounding Ballenas Islands to port. I think most boats had a perfectly spirited, but not alarming, 15 nautical mile run back to Ballenas. In the strengthening northwesterly, getting there was more of a true downwind leg. Oh, but after Ballenas was a whole other ball of wax, with a course that was 25 degrees tighter to the breeze paired with building winds.
The post-race dockside war stories seemed to confirm that
the real race was simply how long you could keep your kite up. God certainly took a few down as the breeze increased to 25-30, then low 30s, and eventually topping out in the 3540 knot range as boats reached the finish. The finish order in Division 1 reflected this. Tavish Minielly from 65 Red Roses II reported they managed to keep their full size A2 kite up until 3 miles from the finish when the spin halyard gave up, and “only broke 20 knots a few times.” It was a lucky break, as they ended up wiping out in a 40-knot puff as they crossed the finish line with just the main and jib, but they made it farther than most with their kite and that earned them the Division 1 and Overall ORC wins. Serious kudos to that very experienced team that put it all together in challenging conditions. For the numbers geeks, Roses gained 7-12 miles on the other Division 1 leaders in only about 35 miles. The understatement of the race was from Alyosha Strum-Palerm, guest crewing aboard the J/111 who said, “It is not trivial to drive (a J/111) when it is blowing 30.” No, not trivial at all.
For us on Ripple, we tapped out when we saw 25 knots, dousing the kite shortly after passing Ballenas. At that stage we needed either more people, more light, more practice, or ideally all of the above if we were going to keep the gas pedal on the floor. Other than a few brave and well-sailed boats in front of us, I think we were in the majority of the fleet with that plan. The courageous award must surely go to the Andrews 77, Mach II, who saw 32 knots of boat speed in a 40 knot puff near the finish! As sea stories go, is that a monohull speed record for the Salish Sea?
We learned a ton in a very short time racing on Ripple in this year’s slow-motion-fast-motion edition of Southern Straits, and we already have a nice list of things we can do better next time. In the end, we wound up 7th in our division and 15th overall in ORC. It is always amazing to rediscover how rewarding it is to challenge ourselves on our home waters.
While 65 Red Roses II were the big winners on the long distance Sisters Islets Course, the podiums on all courses were full of impressive performances. On the Sisters Islets course, Division 0 went to Peter Salusbury’s Longboard (Peter has now completed an incredible 50 Southern Straits Races!), and the J/109 Diva won Division 2. On the Entrance Islands Course, the Swan 46 Setri won Division 3, CY 8.0 Incisor won Division 4, and Division 5 honors went to the Windward 30 Pitoraq. On the Halibut Bank Course, GP26 Wraith took the Division 6 win and was also the top doublehanded boat for that course, and the Dufour 38 Radiance topped Division 7. On the Inshore Course, the Melges 24 Ferdinand came out atop the podium.
A huge shoutout to Race Chairman Peter Salusbury, PRO Kathy Parslow (and point person for the fantastic WhatsApp communication tool), and all the volunteers for making the 55th Southern Straits Race a welcoming, fun, very wellorganized event. I suspect everyone agrees that the new virtual finish line—well away from the notorious Point Atkinson—was a success. It turns out that finishing in 3040 knots downwind out in the middle of English Bay has its distinct advantages. What a wonderful and wild weekend of racing on the Strait of Georgia.
GP 26 Wraith won their division and the double-handed class. Photo by Matt Wagstaffe.
SC 70 Westerly, left, leads J/109 Spyhop into the Strait in light air. Westerly would go on to finish an impressive 2nd among the fastest boats on the course in Division 0. Photo by Matt Wagstaffe.
J/109 Diva took top honors in their long course class. Photo by Matt Wagstaffe.
When the breeze filled in, the authors' Ripple was soon under reefed main and J3 in the building pressure.
CLASSIFIEDS
BOATS FOR SALE
1997 NORSEA 27
Aft cabin. Very good looking boat, good condition, professionally finished, Yanmar 2 cylinder 18hp, about 380 hours. Built with offshore travel in mind. Met the love of my life who didn’t share my vision. Many extras, including 7’7” achilles inflatable, Winslow 4 person life (needs recertification) Moniter windvane, much more.
» Contact Jim Herman • (253) 380-1413
• boatbutcher@hotmail.com • $59,000
WALKER BAY YACHT TENDER
Walker Bay Generation LTE 2019 11’ x 6’. Rarely used – Great condition. See in Anacortes, or Pt. Hadlock. Evinrude ETEC 30 HP outboard – Just fully serviced. Simrad chart plotter with depth sounder. Bilge pump, running lights. New, custom Sunbrella cover. Lifting eyes and strap down points. Custom lifting harness. » Contact Peter Brown • 1(206) 890-3325 • petermaldenbrown@gmail.com • $13,950 OBO
$9,999
1975 CAL 2-29
Schattauer Main and Roller Furling with 95 Jib. 2005 Westerbeke engine, 23 HP, approx. 300 hours. Propane 4 burner stove and heater. Kitchen and head sinks with cold water supply. Head: Raritan with Septic tank. West Marine 10-ft dingy with center seat–never used. Autopilot and radio. 2 nd owner since 1994. Engine maintained by Pat’s Marine. 2-year haulouts @ Seaview West
» Contact Steve Marx • srmarx@comcast.net • $9,999
For even more photos and listings check out 48north.com/classifieds
$110,000
1983 PASSPORT 40
This is a world capable yacht, ready to take you cruising. Beautiful yacht in really good condition. She is cutter rigged with oversized rigging and extra cockpit winches. Major equipment has been replaced or renewed. She is cruise equipped. Location is Orcas Island, WA. » Contact Tom Owens • (360) 632-8896 • svlandsend@yahoo.com • $110,000 (Private Sale)
$50,000
1981 J/36
Lovingly restored, ready for racing and cruising! Wellmaintained 2004 Yanmar 3YM30, new bottom paint & thru-hulls, new running (2024) & standing rigging (2017), CSR-rebuilt decks w/ G10 backing, North Dacron sails for cruising & North/Quantum sails for racing, rebuilt winches, revarnished interior, new diesel heaters, new ENO range/oven, new cushions, and so much more!
Pacific NW tri-cabin trawler. We are the 5th owners, keeping her these past 24 yrs in a Port Angeles boathouse. M/V Puget Lady has been moored under cover her entire life. She is hauled annually for inspection and maintenance. » Contact Tom Magwire • (206) 910-8198
$12,500
Gig Harbor Boat Works 12-foot Point Defiance sailboat (built in 2022), Kevlar/Composite hull, kick-up rudder, tiller extension, seat cushion, rowing mirror, 8’spoon oars and 2HP Suzuki outboard. Includes Carnai galvanized trailer. All lightly used (not at all in 2024). » Contact Stan Smith • (360) 808-5860 • stanshar@hotmail.com • $12,500
“TOM” is a Garden 12’ catboat he designed for himself. Port Orford cedar carvel planked on bent white oak frames, epoxy encapsulated, BRZ fastened and epoxy glued. Hull covered with 6 oz glass cloth, deck and cuddy with Dynel. Sitka spruce mast and spars. Dabbler sail. Full cover. TrailEx alum trailer. Located Camas WA. » Contact Ronald Render • (619) 817-5669 • boatman.usna@gmail.com • $8,500
$92,000
1980
COOPER 416 PILOTHOUSE CINNAMON GIRL
BC built sloop and a true Pacific Northwest Cruiser. The pilothouse design, featuring an inside steering station, allows for an almost 360-degree view while cruising and loads of light while at anchor. Complete list of components, upgrades and maintenance list available. » Contact Julie • (360) 739-2204 • jah122557@hotmail.com • $92,000
2016 BILL GARDEN 12'
$129,000
CT49 - OCEAN CRUISING LIVEABOARD SCINTILLA
Ocean cruising liveaboard whose every owner since new has used her for that purpose. As such, she has been equipped, maintained and updated for that purpose constantly. She is ready for her new owners to continue that mission. This is a lot of boat for the money. www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1986-ta-chiao-ct-49-9451679/ » Contact Christopher P. Harry • (206) 503-9568 • sv.scintilla@gmail.com • $129,000
$20,000
1981 28+ ERICSON ELECTRIC MOTOR SLOOP
Edmonds, end U dock. NEW: electric motor/controller (THOOSA 7000), 12 Dragonfly 24V 50Ah propulsion, 48V system, max prop, sails, lazy jacks, dodger, whisker pole, canvas, life lines, cushion covers, hatch, sensors, propane tank & more. 28 nm range at 4 kts. Solar panel array. Zodiac 320. New Head. Bottom Paint/zincs 8/23. » Contact Susan S. Miller • (206) 605-3433 • susansmiller@mac.com • $20,000
$10,000
25’ GAFF RIGGED CUTTER S/V TULLAMORE BUILT IN PORT TOWNSEND (1997)
One of three William Adkin designed gaff-rigged cutter built at the NW School of Wooden Boat Building in Port Townsend circa 1997. She is 25’5” LOA, with a 7’10” beam and 3’10” draft. She carries four sails and easily sleeps three. She is powered by a low-hour 15hp Yanmar diesel with Raymarine ST2000+ auto pilot, Garmen Echomap DV with GPS and depth indicator. Needs a little TLC. In La Conner. » Contact Ross Mayberry • (206) 735-9592 • rossmayberry13@gmail.com • $10,000 OBO
BOATS FOR SALE
2003 JEANNEAU SUN ODYSSEY 40
Amazing performance cruiser for Salish Sea or offshore. Blue water vet: Mexico, Hawaii and Alaska. Excellent condition with all the gear: near new Yanmar 4JH57 (160 hrs) direct drive; aux fuel tank; MAX prop; watermaker; ESPAR hydronic heat; RADAR; AIS; power winch for main, Etc.. Does it all with ease: single handed, with crew or family. Contact for full listing info. » Contact Dave Stromquist • (360) 606-9043 • dstromquist@comcast.net • $135,000 $135,000
1974 WESTSAIL 42, HULL #1
Actively being sailed in Mexico with limited delivery avail. This is a ready-to-go legendary bluewater cruising boat! Meticulously updated. Major powertrain & engine room refit in 2023. Only 430 hrs on rebuilt Perkins 4.236! Rich varnished wood interior. Private owner’s cabin. Spares for every system. More details & photos: https://westsail42forsale.wixsite.com/hull1 » Contact Craig McMaster • (425) 736-8540 • westsail42forsale@gmail.com • $60,000
15’ BOLGER GLOUCESTER GULL DORY
The Artful Sailor is selling the famed 15’ Bolger Gloucester Gull, TASWENS, veteran of three, round trip 70/48 races, a circumnavigation of Kitsap Peninsula and the Salish 100. Traditionally finished, complete with sails, spars, oars, cruising gear, cover and dolly. Ready to row. Visit TASWENS, by appointment at The Artful Sailor shop in Port Townsend at Point Hudson. Visit: theartfulsailor.com » Contact The Artful Sailor • (360) 344-8120 • theartfulsailor@gmail.com • $9,000
$79,900
1977 ALAJUELA 38 MK 1
Upgrades (2019 – 2022) include engine (Beta 43), Navionics Suite, Solar, standing / running rigging, roller furling genoa, main and staysail. Monitor self steering, new max prop 4 blade, new electrical switchboard and cabling throughout. Completed 12 month circumnavigation 2022-2023. Ready for more. Complete list of upgrades and recent surveys available. » Contact Douglas Wertz • (509) 438-1151 • dougwertz55@gmail.com • $79,900
$60,000
1987 33' SATURNA PILOT HOUSE "PERFECT NORTHWEST CRUISER"
Modified fin keel, Draft 6’0” Beam 10’8”. 30 hp Westerbeke 4-cylinder new 2005, 4 6-V Interstate Batteries 2021, 4 Barient self-tailing winches, Sea Wolf S-L Elec Windlass, Main, Genoa, jib & Drifter. Garmin 740S chart plotter/sounder, 18HD Radar, VHF. Dual stations – hydraulic steering. Hillerange stove/oven, Fridge/ Freezer 2015 » Contact John Reed • (425) 337-7821 • jdreed@frontier.com • $60,000
This gorgeous Bermudian Double Ended Yawl was designed by Paul Gartside, built by Jespersen Boat Builders in B.C., Canada and launched in 2012. The Hull is Cold-Molded with Western Red Cedar, Douglas Fir, Fiberglass and West Systems Epoxy. The boat is beautiful, incredibly well-built and ready to sail for any horizon! View article: https://www.woodenboat.com/onlineexclusives/la-vie-en-rose » Contact (360) 316-9370 • Rob@PortTownsendBoatCo.com • $289,900
$16,000
$49,900 FOR SALE 1994 CATALINA 270
Perkins 18 HP Diesel, Pedestal Steering, 100 & 130 Jibs, tri sail, main, dodger, wheel and sail covers, and a wing keel. » Contact Mark • (206) 784-4474 • mjquam2@q.com • $16,000
30’ YANKEE ONE SLOOP SAILBOAT
Master Mariner award winning, designed by William Starling Burgess/Stone built. Wooden hull. Roller furler. Flame totally restored in 2015. Complete survey in 2023 available. “A Sailor’s Sailboat”. Located in Richmond, CA. Classic wood racing sloop. » Contact Bob • stefroche916@gmail.com • $49,900
$13,900
200 hours. New bottom paint May 2024. To many upgrades to mention here. Bainbridge Island. » Contact Garry Sobeck • (619) 888-0274 • garrysobeck@comcast.net • $13,900
PACIFIC
Sailboat with excellent trailer and tremendous amount of gear ready for someone handy to put it all together. Yanmar 2YM15 with 1.5 hours on it, two furlers, 6 sails, cockpit and interior cushions, two anchors, wind vane self steering and Raymarine tiller pilot, Furuno radar, propane system parts. Too many parts to list – contact me for link to photos » Contact Todd Chandler • (541) 992-9289 • todd@ chandlermarineservices.com • $18,900
MARINE EQUIPMENT
https://sailtime.com/location/anacortes
MONTEREY REDUCED
70’ SANTA CRUZ 70 ’85
$250,000
....................
“CHARDONNAY III” Turnkey
Subchapter T vessel ready for business. Great opportunity for a swift boat with charter slip and management available.
66’ GORBON 66 ’97
$495,000
....................
“BAJAVENTO” A luxurious performance vessel that can easily be sailed shorthanded. Professionally maintained. Cruise in style and comfort.
54’ ROBERTS 54 ’79
$225,000
....................
“SPIRIT” Rugged bluewater vessel designed with comfort and safety in mind. Nicely upgraded.Coast Guard Certified for up to 42 passengers.
SIDNEY,BC
70’ SANTA CRUZ 70 ’87 $299,000 “WESTERLY” Completely updated. No expense spared. A great chance to own an up-to-date SC 70 and get sailing now.
53’ SOUTHERN OCEAN GALLANT 53 ’70 $139,500 “AUNTIE” Beautiful lines and superb proportions. No crew needed. This one completed a solo circumnavigation.
NEW LISTING
46’ TAYANA 460 PILOTHOUSE ’02 $315,000 “PEREGRINE” Custom-built for seller. She has cruised the South Pacific, is updated and ready for another cruise.
46’ HUNTER 460 ’00 $129,500 “ALE ER RON” Versatile yacht for liveaboard, easy daysails or serious ocean passages. Reasonable offers considered.
37’ PACIFIC SEACRAFT PS37 ’87 $137,500 “STELLABLUE”Perfect ready-to-go cruiser. Equipped with the best of everything. Oneyear Santa Cruz slip possible.
Perry 61
Wild Horses was designed by Robert H. Perry and built by James Betts Enterprises with the goal of sailing fast, far, safely, and in comfort. Her aluminum hull and composite deck offer the best of both worlds in terms of strength and stiffness while maintaining a light, easily maintained structure. Her interior, with 6’9” headroom, has two staterooms, plus additional bunk room (also a garage and mechanical space) and a large “Perry” galley that is the envy of any cook. Systems access and storage spaces are as to be expected in a long-distance cruising yacht. Wild Horses’ owners are experienced passagemakers (they cruised extensively on a Perry designed Nordic 44) who have only improved and furthered the mission of this design. She is impressively well put together and smart personal touches are throughout.