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In the depths of the ocean’s twilight zone—a region scientists know less about than the surface of the Moon—every dive yields new discoveries. Explore these deep reefs and the fascinating marine life found hundreds of feet below. Get tickets at calacademy.org
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23 Currents Seaplane Adventures, Marin Olympians and more. 26 On the Job Meet a Stinson Beach lifeguard. 28 Made by Marin Paddling with Desolation Outdoors. 30 Reading List Former mayor’s life with the birds. 32 FYI Dredging the San Rafael Canal. 36 Conversation AIM’s Brigitte Moran talks markets.
95 Go Tasty food trends on Oahu. 100 Journey Three warm and exotic fantasy islands.
107 Calendar A roundup of what to do in Marin and beyond.
Dine An insider’s guide to restaurants and food in the Bay Area. 118 Flavor Salmon tail from Scoma’s. 123 On the Scene Snapshots from events in Marin and San Francisco.
Backstory Going downtown in Mill Valley. COLUMNS
View From Marin 16 POV
Looking Back You might recognize the name of the illustrator who produced our Best of the County cover this month, James van Kriedt. We liked the work he submitted for our May cover contest so much, we asked him to make a return appearance.
The archetype of the modern watch has spanned generations since 1945 with its enduring functions and aesthetics. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.
PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nikki Wood
Editorial
Mimi Towle
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jim Calio, Peter Fish, Laura Hilgers, Tom James, Tim Porter, Nate Seltenrich, Sherrie Strausfogel, Calin Van Paris, Mike Waltze
By 2033, a private college education will cost half a million bucks. It feels awfully good to start planning now. If your wealth manager’s not driving the process, find someone who will. Don’t stay stuck in a loveless relationship — download our Practical Guide to Finding Happiness at www.privateocean.com/guide.
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I see a future CEO or tech entrepreneur or senator!
I see half a million dollars in education debt. I see a future CEO or tech entrepreneur or senator!
I see half a million dollars in education debt.
AUGUST IS ALWAYS a fun month because it is when we can reveal our Best of the County picks. This time around we ditched the 101 items format and organization by town and decided to just focus in on what makes Marin great. We love the results. And you’ll love reading about the best wraps, the best burgers, the best drinks, the best yoga and so much more.
We continue with a feature by Peter Fish about the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service and the wonder that is Point Reyes National Seashore. Earning a national park designation for this area wasn’t a slam dunk; it took some local heroes to make it happen. Learn the history and fi nd out what the next 100 years hold.
Features wrap up with a story on a group of folks who have shared more than 10,000 breakfasts at Fred’s Place in Sausalito. Tom James gets the scoop on why attendees (almost) never miss the morning meal.
Up front we introduce you to a lively lifeguard, a paddleboard purveyor and a brilliant birder. We also take a look at a regional plan to solve the dredging issues that are
obstructing the San Rafael Canal and the progress being made on a proposed $20 million centralized Marin Farmers Market.
In Destinations, we’re off o Oahu to explore the culinary evolution that continues with Hawaii’s next generation of chefs and show you who (and what) is cooking at the sixth annual Hawaii Food and Wine Festival. And if you like islands, you’ll love our look at three exclusive international hot spots for dipping your toes in the sand.
It’s a fun issue for those who like to eat, hike, drink, stretch, shop and play. We hope you enjoy it and to see you at one, or all, of the places highlighted in our Best of the County issue.
You’ll love reading about the best wraps, the best burgers, the best drinks, the best yoga and so much more.Marin Magazine Staff Editors
My list of Marin’s most influential residents.
BY JIM WOODHERE, CURRENTLY AND strictly from my point of view, are 16 of Marin’s most accomplished and in fluential people.
In recent months, three of Marin’s political leaders took strong stands on the nationwide issue of gun violence. Gavin Newsom , California’s lieutenant governor and a Ross resident, got a gun (and bullet) control initiative placed on the November ballot; Marin Congressman Jared Huffman helped stage a congressional sit-in demanding commonsense gun control legislation; and Marin Assemblyman Marc Levine had a bill signed into law closing a loophole on assault weapon ownership in California.
Marin’s five county supervisors wield considerable influence in addition to overseeing the county’s unincorporated communities.
Marin’s five county supervisors wield considerable in fluence in addition to overseeing the county’s unincorporated communities. Supervisor Steve Kinsey is also chairman of the powerful California Coastal Commission, which recently dismissed its executive director over concerns he was overly detail-focused and slow to make the coastline accessible to people of all income levels. Supervisors Judy Arnold and Kate Sears serve on the boards of SMART (Sonoma-Marin Area Rail Transit), set to begin service within 90 days; and the Golden Gate Bridge, Highway and Transportation District, which deals with bridge tolls, ferry routes and bus service. And Damon Connolly, in addition to being a county supervisor, is a voting member of Association of Bay Area Governments (ABAG), a ninecounty and 101-city regional planning board currently considering merging with the Metropolitan Transit Commission (MTC), a similar planning group concerned with transportation issues. Supervisor Katie Rice is Marin’s representative on the Bay Area Air Quality Management District, which sets Spare the Air days, when wood fi res are prohibited and bus fares are free.
And here’s my alphabetical list of other notable Marin leaders:
• Jean-Jacques Bienaime , chairman and CEO at BioMarin Pharmaceuticals. BioMarin is a major and growing presence in downtown San
Rafael; its operations now contribute more than half a billion dollars to the local economy.
• Mary Jane Burke , Marin’s superintendent of schools. Her office supports Marin’s more than 36,000 students. She’s also the force behind SchoolsRule Marin, a countywide organization that’s raised more than $2 million in auxiliary funding for local schools.
• Russ Colombo, president and CEO, Bank of Marin. Born in Marin, Colombo also chairs SMART’s citizens oversight committee. With the recent purchase of Bank of Alameda, his bank now has 21 branches, 10 in the county.
• Lee Domanico, CEO, Marin General Hospital. Last week, a $550 million project to rebuild and seismically retrofit MGH began construction and will take three years to complete, while the hospital remains open. Domanico is making this happen.
• Michael Krasny, host, Forum on KQED-FM. Krasny, a Ph.D., English professor and Greenbrae resident, has a daily Bay Area following of 85,000 (and a worldwide online audience) who listen to discussions of critical topics with influential people. His 2016 guests include former CIA chief Michael Hayden, author E.O. Wilson and actor/comic Billy Crystal.
• Farhad Mansourian , general manager, SMART. After others made a rocky start of it, Mansourian took over management of the 38-mile commuter line between Santa Rosa and San Rafael five years ago and will deliver it on time, this fall.
• Thomas Peters, president and CEO, Marin Community Foundation. Started in 1987, MCF manages $1.6 billion in assets — half from the Buck Family Trust and half from Bay Area individuals — and distributes $65 million annually to worthy causes, mostly in Marin County.
• Dawn Weisz , CEO, Marin Clean Energy. Created to deliver renewable energy to Marin at costs just above those of PG&E’s nonrenewable sources, MCE now serves Richmond, Napa County and East Bay cities. Weisz was CEO from the get-go.
If I overlooked (or overrated) someone, let me know. That’s my point of view. What’s yours?
Email pov@marinmagazine.com
The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the policy or position of Marin Magazine and its staff
Writer, “Fantasy Islands” (p. 100)
A Los Angeles–based travel writer, Jim Calio has visited more than 50 countries and written about everything from the Great Wall in China to walking safaris in Africa to a cooking school in Oman. He is a former Life magazine West Coast bureau chief and writer for Newsweek and People magazines in New York. His dream trip is to go into space with the fi rst tour company that will book him.
Thanks for making Marin Magazine such a fi ne publication. I always read it cover to cover. Even the ads are attractive. I want to compliment you on the cover for the annual 2016 cover contest (May, 2016). As the originator of recreational rowing in Marin back in 1967, I h ad no idea it would eventually b ecame the M arin Rowing Association. Created with the help, insight and skills of Greenbrae’s B ob Cummings, a 1932 Olympic sculler representing Canada (the Boat House is named in his honor), and many other former oarsmen and scullers, t he success of the sport in Marin is good to see and perfectly expressed by artist Barrie Barnett.
HOWARD LEVENSON, SAN RAFAEL
Peter Fish Writer, “Point Reyes Days” (p. 56)
Peter Fish has been writing about national parks and the American West for 30 years, for Sunset magazine, the San Francisco Chronicle and AFAR, among other publications. His Sunset article on the reintroduction of wolves to Yellowstone National Park, “Howl,” won a 2013 Lowell Thomas Award gold medal for environmental journalism. He lives in San Francisco with his wife and son.
Thanks for your article on the Golden Gate Bridge and the babies born there (Summer Guide, 2016). There was also, in 1968, a little girl delivered on the bridge. My father, Capt. Edward Moore, was present at her birth.
MARILYN MOORE DINEEN, SAN RAFAEL
I enjoy your magazine, and that is not at all lessened by fi nding a mistake in the recent issue. The photo on page 146 (Looking Back, June) is taken at the intersection of Princess Street and Bridgeway (aka Water Street) looking north, not south. You can see in the distance the stone elephants that mark the park. They are still there, as is the new ferry landing. Much of the text in the article is turned around in the labeling of what is in the photo. IAN SOBIESKI, VIA EMAIL
Writer, “Breakfast Club” (p. 64)
Tom James is the owner and founder of Overall Social, a San Francisco–based digital marketing agency. Previously he spent 20 years as a media executive, most recently as VP of content and strategy at Bonnier Corporation, overseeing more than 40 national magazine brands, including Saveur, Transworld Surf, Scuba Diving and others.
He lives in Mill Valley with his wife, Sarah, and 16-month-old daughter, Sadie.
In our July Journey about Ethiopia we called the country the most populous in the world. We intended to say it is the most populous landlocked country in the world.
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Your comments may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine , One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965, or email us at letters@marinmagazine com . Please include the town where you live and a daytime phone number.
WHEN WHERE WHY YOU SHOULD GO COST FIND OUT MORE
Sept. 3–4, 10 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sept. 5, 10 a.m.–5 p.m.
Marinship Park/Bay Model Visitor Center, Sausalito Set against the magnificent Sausalito waterfront and the San Francisco Bay, the Sausalito Art Festival has steadily grown, attracting more than 30,000 patrons and 260 award winning international artists over Labor Day weekend. The featival also features a world-class entertainment lineup, unique special exhibits and a cornucopia of food, beer, specialty drinks and wine.
$25, seniors $20, kids under 12 free, VIP $100 415.332.3555, sausalitoartfestival.org
After the engagement comes the wedding planning, but where to begin?
Marin Magazine’s online Wedding Resource Guide can help you get started. This recently updated online guide has information on venues, florists, photographers, cakes, planners and much more. Launch your search today at marinmagazine.com/weddings
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You’ll find more than 80 food, shop, recreation, drink and just plain fun honorees in this 2016 Best of the County issue — places well worth checking out and activities well worth pursuing. Look for these window clings in local stores, shops, studios and restaurants; find one and you’ll know it’s a place you definitely need to try. Head to marinmagazine. com/bestofthecounty to view the complete list online.
Have you checked out the latest issue of Marin At Home yet? The summer/fall issue has stunning architecture and interior design content, info on the latest home trends and much more. Editor-in-Chief Zahid Sardar led the process of bringing the stories to light; read them all at marinmagazine.com/marinathome
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WHERE THE FITTEST SURVIVE, IT’S NO SURPRISE THE BEST IS EXPANDING. MODERN LUXURY LIVES HERE.
BY KASIA PAWLOWSKA
The company behind SEAPLANE ADVENTURES has undergone many iterations through the years. Originally established in 1945 as Commodore Seaplanes by Bob Law, a returning veteran World War II seaplane pilot, it has provided (at one time) a home base for the largest flight school in the United States and the largest regional air carrier going to Lake Tahoe, as well as rehearsal space for the Grateful Dead, Jefferson Airplane and Carlos Santana. These days it holds another designation — the only remaining seaplane company in California. Currently operated by Sausalito residents Aaron and Tiffany Singer, Seaplane Adventures offers five tours that give passengers bird’seye views of Alcatraz, the Golden Gate Bridge, Stinson Beach and more. The company is also celebrating a big anniversary this year — and chalking up some other impressive numbers. seaplane.com K.P.
Our county draws all kinds of talented individuals: entrepreneurs, artists and top athletes. In honor of the 2016 Rio games, here are Olympians who have at one point or another called Marin their home. K.P.
Andre Agassi Tennis (Tiburon)
Mike Altman Rowing (Kentfield)
John Bertrand Sailing (San Rafael)
Will Baylis Sailing (Tiburon)
Molly Carapiet Sailing (Belvedere)
John Cashman Rowing (Kentfield)
Paul Cayard Sailing (Kentfield)
Ann Curtis Cuneo Swimming (San Rafael)
Rick DeMont Swimming (San Rafael)
Richard Draeger Rowing (Novato)
Brad Gilbert Tennis (San Rafael)
Craig Healy Sailing (Tiburon)
Pam Healy Sailing (Tiburon)
Fred Honebein Rowing (Tiburon)
Michael Johnson Track and Field (San Rafael)
John Kostecki Sailing (Tiburon)
Mary McConneloug Mountain Biking (Fairfax)
Jonny Moseley Freestyle Skiing (Tiburon)
Russ Silvestri Sailing (Tiburon)
Alex Tarics Water Polo (Belvedere)
Archie Williams Track and Field (Fairfax)
In the past 40 years the American Craft Council’s San Francisco show has grown to be the largest juried fine craft show on the West Coast. This year, from August 5 to 7, the Fort Mason event is hosting more than 220 artists, who will be displaying jewelry, apparel, furniture and home decor. In a Style Slam showcase, also featured as part of the show for the first time on the West Coast, stylists demonstrate how handmade pieces can enhance an outfit to create current seasonal looks. One of the four stylists chosen to participate, Greenbrae resident Betina Baumgarten, started her business Best Foot Forward in 2012 and will offer makeovers to attendees. craftcouncil.org, bffbybetina.com K.P.
IF YOU FIND yourself in trouble in the water at Stinson Beach, maybe caught up in a powerful rip current, you may meet Jen Glazier. At 32, the ocean rescue specialist is highly experienced at pulling people safely out of places they shouldn’t be. In less stressful moments, she coordinates the National Park Service’s summer Junior Lifeguard program. When did you start lifeguarding? I became a lifeguard when I was 15. You’ve worked here for how long? Four years. I am a full-time, seasonal employee. I work from the beginning of May through the end of October. How often do you need to help people in the water? More this year than we have the last three years, because the beach has changed and there are a lot more rip currents. I’ve gone in already twice, maybe three times this year. Have you ever been unable to rescue someone? In 2012, I was guarding for a triathlon on the Russian River and I had to pull this lady out and give her CPR, but she died on me. She’d had a heart attack. How traumatic that must have been. It focused me on wanting to take care of people. I got my EMT. I got certi fied in ocean rescue. I’ve gone back to nursing school and I hope one day to b e a fl ight nurse. Flight nurse? Work on a helicopter during urgent rescue situations.
Jen Glazier, lifeguard, Stinson Beach
How do people get in trouble in the ocean? The biggest problem is people who just aren’t used to being in the water. I rescued a guy last weekend who was on a boogie board and the current was pulling him out. I asked him if he knew how to swim and he said no. I told him, “You probably shouldn’t be in the water up to your chest, dude.” You’re not a big person. How much strength do you need for this job? I’m a short female and all the people I’ve rescued have been males. You have to have the strength to swim somebody in. As a female, you have to be strong and be willing and able to do most of the stuff hat the men can. My mom always used to say, “Some people are made to pull the cart and some people are made to sit in it.” I was made to pull it. I have to bring up Baywatch . It’s OK. Is there anything you actually do here that resembles that TV show? We wear red and we have rescue tubes. That’s it. We don’t run in slow motion and it’s not ever pretty when we go to rescue someone. m
When people need help in the ocean, here’s the person they most want to see.
TIM PORTERON THE JOB
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CERTAIN ACTIVITIES ARE synonymous with Marin life: hiking, mountain biking and now more than ever, stand-up paddleboarding. It should come as no surprise, then, that the vehicles for this pursuit would have local roots, too — and they do. The founder of Desolation Outdoors, Torben Yjord-Jackson, 25, was born and raised in Tiburon and is a lifelong outdoor enthusiast. Yjord-Jackson was able to combine his love of sailing, stand-up paddleboarding and longboarding (better for cruising downhill than skateboards) and his passion for restoring, enhancing and customizing boats when he founded Desolation Outdoors in December 2014. The company manufactures and markets premium stand-up paddleboards and longboard skateboards that were designed here in Marin by leading naval architects and marine engineers. Desolation paddleboards are made using a sandwich laminate of carbon fiber and Innegra cloth, a kind of construction that offers the best strength-to-weight ratio. In addition to a full line of stand-up paddleboards and paddles, the company also produces longboard skateboards that are handcrafted from Canadian maple wood. PHILOSOPHY Desolation Outdoors, named after the Desolation Wilderness in the Lake Tahoe Basin, is focused on producing pre mium outdoor gear and making that gear a ffordable for the masses.
“By selling direct, we market our stand-up paddleboards, paddles and longboards at an unrivaled price point but still communicate with customers 24/7 by live chat, email and phone,” says Yjord-Jackson. The company warehouses its prod ucts in California and Texas and independently ships products to the customer’s door within three days of an order being placed. BEYOND MARIN Outdoors hopes to eventually open showrooms in areas like San Francisco, Seattle and Vancouver. WHAT THEY SAY “Our products are derived from pas sion and experience,” says Yjord-Jackson. “Marin County is a venue where we can easily test and enjoy all of our products by simply walking out the front door. You ca n fi nd us out testing a new stand-up paddleboard along the Tiburon shore line, or up on Mount Tam bombing down a hill on one of our 38-inch Speed Freak boards in the early morning.” desolationoutdoors.com KASIA PAWLOWSKA
MM: You have a law practice in Novato and were once mayor of Tiburon — impressive resume. Is this your first stab at writing?
PL: As a civil litigator, I’m writing all the time in the guise of legal briefs. So it’s a different kind of writing, but writing nonetheless. I also started birding at a very young age and have had a number of essays on the topic published in the past. But I never thought about writing a book. And before I discovered that longforgotten news article, I thought everything there was to say about John James Audubon had been said.
PL: I found a clipping from The San Francisco Call — an old city newspaper — from 1896 in a scrapbook kept by the Audubon family. It recounted the memories of a man named Joseph Coolidge who, at 18 years old, had journeyed with Audubon to Labrador in Canada in the summer of 1833. This was a critical time period in Audubon’s life: he was in the middle of the production of The
Birds of America, his magnum opus, and he was recovering from a stroke. I’ve been interested in Audubon for most of my life, and Audubon is pretty much the patron saint of bird-watchers. So I had heard about the Labrador expedition but had never heard any of these stories.
MM: What was your biggest takeaway from researching this portion of Audubon’s life?
PL: The expedition taught him more about himself than I think any other journey into the wilds had. He began to recognize that he was facing the end of his life and he had this massive publication to finish. After his stroke, he needed this return to wilderness in order to recover from the trauma. And, lastly, he began to understand, based on what he observed in Labrador, that mankind had the ability — even at that rather early stage in our [modern] history — to completely wipe out species of wildlife. So he returned as a nascent conservationist.
CALIN VAN PARISAudubon: America’s Greatest Naturalist and His
to Labrador by Peter B. Logan (Novato), Ashbryn Press, $40. The Birds of America was one man’s dream to illustrate and publish a work depicting all of the birds of North America. Midway through the nearly 12-year project, the French-American painter and naturalist John James Audubon was beset by obstacles and began to doubt if he could complete it. Peter B. Logan recounts the unforgettable story of the famed American woodsman. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera on August 25, 7 p.m.
The Shaking Reeds by John Pedersen (San Anselmo), Amazing Grace Media, $15.95.
When Soren Rauhe accidentally dumps his coffee in the lap of Jenny Farrar, his life of vintage motorbikes, NorCal surf and Irish tunes gets seriously complicated. The Shaking Reeds is jam-packed with musical references, unexpected twists and lots of humor. What else would you expect from John Pedersen, owner and operator of San Anselmo’s Amazing Grace music store? Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera on August 6, 4 p.m.
Love the Life You Have by Roger Housden (Larkspur), New World Library, $19.95.
The latest short book from teacher and anthologist Roger Housden is an antidote to the anxiety and stress of constantly feeling that you have to battle your way toward a life of meaning, love and personal significance. It offers an alternative view of and vocabulary for the language of struggle and competition that is so commonly used in any conversation about career, purpose, intimate relations and even spiritual practice. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera on September 8, 7 p.m.
by Michael Krasny (Greenbrae), William Morrow, $19.99.
From the host of KQED’s Forum with Michael Krasny comes a compendium of Jewish jokes that packs the punches with hilarious riffs. Krasny delves deeply into the themes, topics and form of Jewish humor. Borrowing from traditional humor and such Jewish comedy legends as Mel Brooks, Joan Rivers, Larry David, Jerry Seinfeld and Amy Schumer, Let There Be Laughter is a pleasure for members of the tribe and the goyim alike. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera on September 27, 7 p.m.
Book picks by Book Passage Marketing Director Zack Ruskin.
We sat down with Novato’s Peter B. Logan to discuss his new book, Audubon: America’s Greatest Naturalist and His Voyage of Discovery to Labrador.
Our liver and kidney transplant programs have higher than expected outcomes than any other hospital in the country. When you call this city home, you call CPMC your hospital.
A new regional partnership could be the answer to reestablishing a dredging schedule for the San Rafael Canal and other local waterways.
BY NATE SELTENRICH PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER
THE PADDY WAGON , a 24-foot Skipjack fi shing boat, sits in two feet of water outside the San Rafael Yacht Club. At the wheel is Jerry McNulty, a former commodore of the club and all-around competent skipper. He knew, at least, to park the boat here overnight; any trip to the upper reaches of the San Rafael Canal earlier in the morning would’ve been cut short. “At low tide, the chances of getting stuck are 100 percent,” he says.
Even now, the Paddy Wagon is at its low-water limit. McNulty turns the key, the engine comes to life, and the half-buried propeller churns up a smudgy black cloud that billows behind the boat. A pungent, sulfuric smel l fi lls the air: bay mud. The boat slowly pulls off, leaving a putrid plume in its wake.
McNulty couldn’t have orchestrated it better if he’d tried. He helps lead a local group called Friends of the Canal, whose 150-or-so members hope to call attention to the importance of dredging San Rafael’s central waterway — not just up here at the yacht club, effectively the canal’s terminus, but all the way down to San Pablo
Bay and the two Marin Islands, about 2.5 miles away. Traditional funding streams have all but run dry, and without signi ficant local support, group members believe the canal could too.
“We’re at a crossroads, where if we don’t get together as a community and fi nd a solution, there’s a good chance we could end up like Bahia,” says fellow Friends of the Canal member Sam Ferguson, referring to the Novato neighborhood whose lagoon fi lled with silt due to a lack of dredging. “It can happen, and I do think there’s a lack of belief that it can happen.”
Yet unlike Bahia and most other narrow channels fringing the bay, the San Rafael Canal was designated a federal waterway in 1919. This special distinction means the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers pays to keep it navigable, and the corps has funded dredging of the canal 13 times since 1930, an average of once every 6.6 years — most recently in the winter of 2011–2012, at a cost of $1.4 million.
That’s just about when things started to go downhill, say McNulty and Ferguson. During this most recent dredge, not only did the corps fail to dredge the upper 40 percent or so of the canal due to a lack of funds for handling contaminated soils concentrated in and around the turning basin, just outside the yacht club, but it also dredged the remaining portion to a shallower depth than usua l — fiveand-a-half feet.
“We have to do our boat moves at high tide,” says Matt Butler, who runs the 160-slip San Rafael Yacht Harbor just down the canal from the yacht club, also within the area that hasn’t been dredged since 2002. “If you draw more than 24 inches of water, you’re going to have a hard time getting up the channel at low tide.” Outside the harbor the water is about three-and-a-half feet deep at zero tide, Butler says; ideally it’d be closer to six.
Despite the challenges posed by the incomplete dredge, something else happened in 2011 that sent even bigger ripples down the canal: a House-passed ban on federal earmarks that eliminated the mechanism through which the dredging was funded in both 2011 and 2002.
Today, without any alternative funding source in place, the clock is ticking on the canal as more silt trickles in each
Without any alternative funding source in place, the clock is ticking on the canal as more silt trickles in each year.Opposite: Canal docks with Mount Tamalpais in the background. This page from top: Bay mud can be seen as the canal exits into the bay; Jerry McNulty pilots the Paddy Wagon.
year, primarily through storm water runoff, and the canal gets ever shallower.
But businesses like Butler’s and boaters like Ferguson, who also owns a home on the water, have reason to be optimistic. A new, fi rst-of-its-kind regional partnership is taking shape that could spell an answer to San Rafael’s dredging problems, and to those of a couple of North Bay neighbors.
Like the San Rafael Canal, the Petaluma River (actually a tidal slough) and the Napa River are federal waterways that have been dredged by the Army Corps of Engineers for decades. And they, too, have been impacted by the disappearance of dredging funds in recent years. These so-called shallow-draft waterways don’t have the clout to compete with a deep-draft port like Oakland for the corps’ attention, so they’ve lost out on whatever dredging funds have been allocated by Congress in the intervening years.
The idea behind the nascent regional partnership, explains Congressman Jared Huffman (D-San Rafael), who’s been angling for dredging funds since his election in 2013, is to elevate these North Bay waterways from a series of small-time jobs to a single, larger project with significant regional value. All three waterways — and potentially others as well — would be dredged together on a regular schedule, improving efficiencies and economies of scale. “This is the best alternative there is, I believe, short of getting some line-item appropriation that we will continue to fight for, but it may not happen in the time frame we need,” Huffman says.
Richard Landis, San Rafael’s Public Works administrative manager, says the city supports the idea, too. “The corps has been very clear that shallow-draft channels are a low priority,” he says. “This partnership seems to be the only chance of moving forward.”
In the works for about a year, the plan is still in its early stages, and many important details have yet to be decided — like the extent to which local governments will chip in. Yet the corps’ response to date has been encouraging. “They’ve very interested,” Hu ff man says. “There’s no other proposal like this anywhere in the country under development. This really would be new and interesting to the top brass at the Army Corps of Engineers.”
An independent consultant will spend time this summer developing a proposal for the corps. If it’s approved, dredging won’t commence any sooner than late 2018, says Dan St. John, director of public works and utilities for the City of Petaluma and de facto leader of the coalition.
By then the San Rafael Canal will likely have taken on at least another foot of mud, posing even greater challenges for boaters.
But David Wells, who co-owns 101 Surf Sports directly across the canal from Matt Butler’s harbor, says he’s one of the few who will get along just fi ne until then — the business rents kayaks and stand-up paddleboards that require inches, not feet, of water. And in the short term, dredging would actually hurt his business by keeping people off he water. Still, he says, it’s clear the present situation isn’t sustainable. “If banding all together makes money appear, then that’s good,” he says. “Having a more vibrant marine industry down here as a regional point of pride would, over the long term, serve us well.”
That collective benefit came starkly into view as the Paddy Wagon approached the yacht club and turning basin on its return from a brief trip down the canal. A small sailboat sat motionless in the water about 20 feet from shore, sails down: stranded in the same mud that nearly snagged McNulty’s boat a few hours before.
McNulty pulled up close and tossed a rope to the man aboard, who rigged it to his bow. Then the Paddy Wagon reversed course, towed its charge to deeper water, and set the boat free. Just another day on the San Rafael Canal. m
OVER MARIN MAGAZINE ’S 11-year history, Brigitte Moran is one of only a few who have been featured twice in Conversation. She fi rst appeared in the July 2010 issue. Why again? Because Moran is now heading up a $20 million project at the Marin County Civic Center that reflects the changing nature of farmers’ markets throughout Marin, California and much of the United States.
Over the past 28 years, Moran has played a key role in the development of Marin’s enormously popular farmers’ markets — those spring, summer and fall coming-togethers that reflect Marin’s healthy, outdoor- and community-oriented lifestyle. She’s the CEO and executive director of the Agricultural Institute of Marin (AIM), a nonprofit that’s been around for seven years and currently manages seven large-scale farmers’ markets: on Clement Street and at Stonestown Galleria in San Francisco; in Oakland, Hayward and Newark; and the Thursday and Sunday morning markets at the Marin County Civic Center.
The Canadian-born Moran, 59, made her way to the U.S. after living in France’s Brittany and Pyrenees regions. She attended Marin Catholic High School, where she met Herb, her husband of 38 years. The couple lives in San Rafael’s Dominican neighborhood, and their three adult children and four grandchildren reside nearby.
Before getting to AIM’s $20 million project, let’s discuss the organization that hopes to make it happen. The Agricultural Institute of Marin is a nonprofit currently operating on a $2.4 million annual budget. Ninety-five percent of our income comes from the $55 we
charge for use of each stall at our seven farmers’ markets. We have 16 full-time employees, plus eight part-timers, and we operate 24/7 because markets often take place on weekends. Our offices are on Smith Ranch Road near the San Rafael airport and we have a 15-member board of directors, half of whom are farmers and dairy ranchers, like Lynn Giacomini Stray of Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese, Doug Stonebreaker of Prather
Ranch and David Lewis of UC Agricultural Extension, and half are members of Marin’s business and civic community, like Jenny Callaway of Congressman Hu ff man’s office, Pat Kendall of Kaiser Permanente and Ed Levine of Levine Solutions. Our mission is “to connect and support communities and agriculture.” Two years ago, in anticipation of our capital campaign, we named Vicki Buder as
our chief development director, which is similar to the role she previously held for Marin Academy and Marin Country Day School.
In the Marin Magazine Conversation of six years ago, AIM was managing farmers’ markets in San Rafael, Novato and Fairfax as well as the two at the civic center. Now, in Marin County, AIM manages only Thursday and Sunday morning markets at the civic center. Why the reduced number of markets? When I started working in farmers’ markets 28 years ago, there were 60 regularly operating in California; now there are 850. That’s not because there are that many more farmers who want to market directly to consumers. It’s because there are many more consumers who want a convenient farmers’ market near their home. But farmers who sell direct are simply spreading themselves too thin. And in recent years they’ve been basically telling us, “Look, having all these small markets, spread around like Starbucks, isn’t helping us. Our primary job is farming; let’s have one regional, centralized market where the people can come to us on a regular basis and we can sell at fewer markets and make a decent living at it.” So our board decided to move in that direction,
as similar organizations are doing statewide. It isn’t right to have our farmers burn out on the selling side of their way of earning a living — which could very well happen. And, by the way, 25 of the 240 farmers who sell at our civic center farmers’ markets are from West Marin. The others come from throughout Northern and Central California, and they travel considerable distance to get their products to market.
This sounds like a lead-in to your major project at Marin County Civic Center. It is. And what’s primarily behind AIM’s project is the need for a feeling of permanence. Our Sunday farmers’ market draws 10,000 people and involves as many as 240 vendors. But our lease with the county allows the county, if need be, to insist that we move to a di fferent location on 30 days’ notice. For instance, we have moved to Northgate mall for the nex t five months due to needed road repairs in the area surrounding the civic center. And it’s not easy to move 10,000 people and 240 businesses on short notice, which happens three or four times a year. And a lot of these businesses depend on us for much of their income — and every time we move, we lose a certain percentage of our customers until they ca n find our new location. There’s also the matter of inclement weather;
when it rains or it’s real windy, our current temporary facilities aren’t adequate and our customer base drops by as much as 50 percent. And then, as I mentioned earlier, there’s the desire on the part of farmers, ranchers and dairy people that they have a more centralized location to sell their products.
What is the cost of the proposed public market hall and canopies? It will cost $20 million; right now we are calling it the Marin Farmers Market. That may change.
As of now, where does your project stand?
Two years ago, after several months of planning, we were required by a county civic center mandate to go to Marin voters and get permission to build a permanent public market hall and canopies on a five-acre parcel next to the 101 freeway often referred to as the “Christmas tree lot.” The response was 82 percent in favor of approving our request. But it didn’t provide for any funding; it just allowed us permission to build within the civic center area. And since getting voters’ permission we’ve been negotiating a permanent 40-year lease with the County of Marin, with two 10-year options to renew. We’ve developed
Walk us through the proposed Marin Farmers Market. On the fi ve-acre parcel — it’s been mostly a parking lot for many years — we’ll have a public market hall that’s open seven days a week; we’ll have two canopies that cover 90 of our 240 vendors; we’ll have a compound of three buildings that will include a butcher shop run by a rancher, a dairy shop that will be operated by a dairyman, and 28 “day tables” where farmers can sell their produce any day of the week. We’ll also have a restaurant with a demonstration kitchen and a cafe, a working greenhouse and a children’s play area. For generations, there’ve been public market places like this throughout Europe and Asia; now it’s the future here. But we’ll need the visionaries of Marin to make it happen.
That sounds great, but one might ask why the community should provide a marketplace for farmers and ranchers? They are businesspeople; shouldn’t they be providing
our
It isn’t right to have our farmers burn out on the selling side of their way of earning a living — which could very well happen.
their own marketplace? First, I believe this project is for us, the community, not just for the farmers. It’s a place for us to gather as a community around the food from our community. We, Marin, need this, a public place that’s free where we can gather. As for the farmers, honestly, I don’t know how to say this, but our farmers and ranchers are people who for the most part have chosen a lifestyle that really doesn’t make a lot of money. What they do, they do out of a love of the land and a love of the products they produce for us, their community. Their profit margins are very low. This is not the Dole family growing pineapple; it’s Jesse and Moira Kuhn of Marin Roots Farm, who grow organic kale, chicories and radishes, then sell them at our markets. These folks are good businesspeople, but they aren’t wealthy; they don’t live the Marin lifestyle. And they do need our support, which is one of the reasons the Agricultural Institute of Marin does what it does.
What is your optimum timeline for the $20 million Marin Farmers Market? Our ideal timeline is to raise $10 million by the end of this year. Like similar endeavors involving this amount of money, the first money is the hardest money to raise. And we’ve been silently getting interest, so it looks like we could get that first $10 million by year’s end. Then, assuming we are able to hit this pace, we would be able to break ground by late spring or early summer of 2018. I think a Marin Farmers Market would bring a new and possibly needed energy to the entire Marin County Civic Center. It will be a permanent public farmers’ market close to the freeway and the new SMART station, so it will be easy to reach. And we’ll have a restaurant where people can dine before or after an event at the civic center. Plus, it will be more than a place for people to gather; it will be a place where, with a few hundred dollars, a person can start a business. Sol Food, Novato’s Flour Chylde Bakery, Donna’s Tamales and Nicasio Cheese all are businesses that started at a Sunday farmers’ market. Our AIM staff s so committed to this project we just bought two dozen lottery tickets and, if we win, we agreed to donate the first $20 million to building the Marin Farmers Market, then split what’s left over between us. That’s how we feel about this project. m
WELCOME. For the last eight years, the August issue has been synonymous with Editors’ Choice, in which we highlight facets of Marin that make our home such a remarkable place to live. For many of those years, we choose 101 items — a nice number and a nod to our famous freeway. Last year we used a new name, Best of the County, and 2016 marks yet another change. Gone are the days of 101 — this year we are simply homing in on the top people, shops, restaurants, services, activities and gatherings that make Marin so outstanding. Instead of focusing on each town and fi nding the best burger or kids’ dance class there, we wanted to go deeper and explain why we think a particular pick is worthy of your time and attention. Did we miss something in the following pages? As always, let us know — we love feedback … and we love Marin.
With so many restaurants, delis and breakfast spots in Marin, there is plenty of dining competition. Here we spotlight dishes and experiences that keep us coming back for more.
Restaurant lines are not created equal — some are markers of quality, while others symbolize ephemeral hype. One of the most relentless lines that’s worth it, however, is the one at Fish Whether it’s Sausalito locals stopping by for some ceviche and fries or those traveling across bridges to nab a crab roll and show their visitors a not-to-be-missed Marin experience, the hordes are not deterred by the patrons pouring out the door. If you’ve been, you understand. If you haven’t, bring cash, wear comfortable shoes and strike up a conversation. 331fish.com
If you crave a slice of New York City–style pizza, head to Manhattan, but don’t forget the antacid. If you don’t want to travel to the East Coast (or the drugstore), head to Larkspur for the ultimate thin-crust pizza, made from locally sourced organic ingredients and baked in a wood-burning oven. At Pizzeria Picco, diners choose from more than a dozen different pizzas or build their own. Patrons have the option of bellying up to the bar or dining alfresco while getting cozy under a heat lamp. Alternatively, pick up an assortment of flash-frozen pizzas and cook your favorite pie at home. Should you decide to pass it off as homemade, well, that’s your choice. pizzeriapicco.com
If you can’t marry up, eat up with two slices of Millionaire’s Bacon at Fred’s Place in Sausalito. This recipe is borrowed from sister
restaurant Sweet Maple in San Francisco. To be clear, they didn’t create the concept of bacon made better, aka Million Dollar Bacon, but they did improve on it. Most joints use presliced hunks that yield 12 pieces per pound; here, each pound yields five super-thick slices, which are then baked in a convection oven for more than three hours with a secret sauce that combines sweet and heat. You could try to make it at home, but why bother? 415.332.4575
If we told you that there was a spot in West Marin that featured food prepared by an Iron Chef champion, tasty barbecue, outdoor seating and live music, would you believe us? Well, there definitely is. That place is Rancho Nicasio , that chef is Ron Siegel and the music is from favorites like Kronos Quartet, Zydeco Flames, Danny Click and Tommy Castro. Come for any and all of it, but stay for the locally sourced, farmfresh dishes that the Michelin-starred chef is serving up. ranchonicasio.com
For those late to the avocado toast trend, the good news is that it has been perfected at Shoreline Coffee Shop in Mill Valley in the form of Tennessee Valley Toast. Served on bread made up the street at Green Gulch Farms, topped with eggs laid down the street at Woolly Egg Ranch and fi nished with organic kale and avocado sprinkled with chile flakes, this is one top toast. shorelinecoffeeshop.com
Off ighway 101’s Sausalito exit, an unassuming strip mall hides one of Marin’s best-kept foodie secrets. Served at Davey Jones Deli — a modest sandwich and salad counter inside the New Bait Shop — the Vulcan Wrap offers a kaleidoscope of color rolled into a spinach tortilla for your consuming pleasure. Packed with hummus, almonds, avocado, quinoa, and the “Twerks” (spinach, arugula, cucumber, carrots, radish, beets, bean sprouts, toasted sesame salt and garlic), this creation is understandably a best seller, and it’s easy to see why it’s named as it is. Live long and prosper. daveyjonesdeli.com
Two runners raising money to open a bakery might sound like the plot to a goofy romantic comedy, but that’s the real story at husband-and-wife-owned M.H. Bread and Butter in San Anselmo. Considering the bakery sells upwards of 200 loaves daily, it’s safe to say they are doing something right. Why is the food so popular? It likely has to do with Nathan Yanko’s eight-year tenure at Tartine or Devon Yanko’s specialty croissants and rolls, or maybe it’s the iced coffee made with coffee ice cubes. The origin of the bakery’s name, however, is not so mysterious. It pays homage to Nathan’s great-grandfather. mhbreadandbutter.com
Lucky for Fairfax, the beloved former Sushi Ran chef Scott Whitman and a group of talented Marin-based restaurateur partners opened Village Sake , an izakaya (a Japanesestyle community pub) on Bolinas Street. Not so lucky are the folks trying to get one of the 12 tables any time after 6 p.m. Here’s the hack: show up at 5 p.m., give your cellphone number, get a drink somewhere in town and they’ll text you when your table is ready. villagesake.com
Farmshop — which was started in Santa Monica — has been bringing the farm-totable movement and all its trappings to Larkspur’s Marin Country Mart since 2013. And sure, the avocado hummus, crispy artichokes and crispier pizza have people coming back again and again, but the atmosphere might just be the real attraction. If you’ve been to Farmshop on a weekend evening, enjoying drinks on the patio while a band plays in the courtyard, you know what we mean; if not, we know what you are doing next weekend. farmshopca.com
The Chinese chicken salad, when done right, is a crunchy, light and slightly sweet treat/meal that becomes a craving. Fun fact: the origins of this popular dish can be traced to Marin’s Cecilia Chiang, who opened the Mandarin restaurant in San Francisco in 1961. For a perfected version of the dish, ask anyone and you’ll fi nd Comforts in San Anselmo tops the list. And for those in the southern part of the county, Kitti’s Place in Sausalito serves up a just-as-tasty option. comfortscafe.com, kittisplace.com
How does a French bistro in San Anselmo get the award for something as American as a cheeseburger? It’s all about the accoutrements. L’Appart Resto serves up its one-third-pound organic grass-fed burgers with carefully selected ingredients like caramelized onions, butter lettuce, tomato and Morbier cheese. All this deliciousness gets wedged inside a ciabatta bun slathered with aioli. Bon appétit. lappartresto.com
Establishments that have made a delicious departure from the basic fry. F3 Dauphines, Sausalito
Farmshop Crispy Marble Potatoes, Larkspur
HopMonk Tavern Sweet Potato Fries, Novato Molina Kennebec Fries, Mill Valley
Super Duper Garlic Fries, Mill Valley
Terrapin Crossroads Sweet Potato Latkes, San Rafael
Buckeye Roadhouse has been around since, well, since roadhouses were a thing. And a martini tastes best when prepared by a classic bartender (read: clad in vest with tie) in a classic gin joint (read: clad in oak wood paneling). So, once again, we choose Mill Valley’s Buckeye Roadhouse bar for high honors. Score a seat at one of the six red-leather booths, and the taste improves exponentially. buckeyeroadhouse.com
A cocktail doesn’t have to break the bank, and at Smitty’s in Sausalito bar-goers have appreciated their well-priced well drinks for decades. While the prices have gone up just a bit since the opening in 1938, it’s hard to beat the value of a vodka-and-soda here. You can buy two cocktails and “dinner” (beer
nuts or chips) with a $20 bill and still have plenty of change for a game of pool and a generous tip. smittysbar.com
In the past decade myriad companies have started making and selling kombucha, and that increase in production shouldn’t come as a big surprise — kombucha has been touted as a magical elixir, with claims asserting that it does everything from reducing gray hair growth to helping prevent cancer. So naturally, it was only a matter of time before Marin got its own subtly effervescent, vinegary panacea, and last year it did, with San Rafael–based Marin Kombucha The company sets itself apart from competitors by aging the tea in charred oak barrels to enhance the flavor and healing properties of the drink. The kombuchas come in versions like original oak, apple juniper, pinot sage,
ginger lemongrass and seasonal varietals like melon rose. All teas are brewed and distributed locally, with a limited capacity of 2,000 gallons per month in order to maintain small batches throughout the fermentation process. marinkombucha.com
Even after a burger, fries, side salad and beer, dessert can look enticing, but you just don’t have room. So sometimes it comes down to sacrifices: nix the beer and opt for a milkshake, or vice versa. But the geniuses at San Anselmo’s Farm Burger have put an end to that debate with a line of adult floats. Consolidate your desire for a buzz and a treat and order a Golden State Cider, complete with a generous dollop of ice cream on top, or move even closer to dessert with a Young’s Chocolate Stout or Wells Banana Bread beer. Sometimes you can have it all. farmburger.net
Liquids are key to survival. Some make us healthier while others seem to make us more interesting, beautiful and hilarious. However, as with anything in excess, too much can have negative eff ects, so imbibe these vetted picks with caution.
Enjoy your liquid calories and burn them off t the same time.
Bocce, anyone? If the draw of Phil Lesh, a vibrant music venue and an expansive outdoor space aren’t enough to bring you to this San Rafael venue, then perhaps a game of bocce is. terrapincrossroads.net
Beer, bangers and a round of darts — what more do you need? Not a thing. But a location that’s but a stone’s throw from the Pacific in Muir Beach, well, that’s a bonus. pelicaninn.com
Cornhole and pool enthusiasts take the games — and their drinking — seriously. So if you love cocktails and competition on a lazy Sunday afternoon, this Stinson Beach classic is for you. stinsonbeachcafe.com
Come for a spirited game of bocce ball in Sausalito, but stay for one of the constantly changing selection of craft beers and a delicious meal served up with sweeping views of Richardson Bay. barbocce.com
Sports fans adore Alex and Lisa Stricker’s Flatiron Saloon. But after four years of running this beloved local haunt on San Rafael’s B Street, the husbandand-wife duo upped their game and opened sister restaurant State Room Brewery earlier this year. The new pub right up the street offers patrons close to a dozen beers on tap, all of which are brewed in house. Foodwise, classic pub fare is punched up to ful fi ll the Strickers’ idea of a farm-totable gastropub. The classic fry basket, for example, features organic hand-cut potatoes dressed with green garlic, herbs and dry Jack cheese served with a side of housemade harissa hot sauce. Stately indeed. stateroombrewery.com
GREEN Hulk Bayside Cafe
Sausalito PURPLE
Firmly Rooted Juice Girl Mill Valley YELLOW Apple Lemon Ginger drink Juice Shop Corte Madera RED Beet Apple Ginger drink Whole Foods Novato ORANGE After Party Urban Remedy San Rafael
PINK
Grapefruit Mint Pressed Juicery Larkspur
Started by Bill and Elaine Petrocelli in 1976, Book Passage , the Corte Madera bookstore and outright community institution, has possibly exceeded even its initial goals. Sure, the selection of books is impressive, but it is everything else the store does that puts it on top. A huge staff helps facilitate more than 700 author events a year — you heard that right — in every conceivable subject. The Martian author Andy Weir and HGTV stars the Property Brothers were recent crowd pleasers. And as if that isn’t enough, the store even gives you the tools to publish your own books with conferences and classes on writing, editing and the business of books. bookpassage.com
There are very few parking lots that fill up before dawn, especially here in Marin, but Susan Hauser’s New Om World in Corte Madera changes all that starting at 6 a.m. As most of us are still sleeping, Hauser, famous for her rock ’n’ roll approach to yoga and/or Lori Holscher, who teaches a more traditional, shoes required, butt burner, pack the house. And for good reason — after walking in dronelike, carrying a rolled-up mat and possibly a coffee, the crowd leaves chatting, dripping sweat and ready for the day. newomworld.com
You’d be hard-pressed to find a more packed event calendar than the one at Gamescape North in San Rafael. Weekly gaming meet-ups range from Dungeons and Dragons (D&D for the initiated) to Magic the Gathering and include board game demos too, putting reclusive gamer stereotypes to rest. And that’s barely scratching the surface. With a focus on building community and expanding creativity, store owners Andre Sisneros and Darren Layne bring together a diverse group of people every night of the week for all kinds of conversation, inspiration and fun. gamescape-north.com
We were saddened to learn that Once Around made its last lap as we were wrapping up the August issue. However, it was the perfect time for us to give Julie Stanton and her crew a well-deserved standing ovation for helping the community of Mill Valley (and beyond) to make Pinterest-worthy crafts for nearly a decade. The impressive stock of textiles, quirky doodads and art supplies was only a small part of why we loved this place. The true value came from the store’s ongoing papier-mâché, knitting or needlepoint classes. It was a place for kindred crafters to gather. oncearound.com
What makes a house a home and a county a community? The following establishments, locales and activities give us a place to congregate and enjoy the company of fellow Marinites.
Hitting both marks on the “oldie and goodie” designation, this century-old race is much more than a competition to see who can run from Mill Valley to Stinson Beach the fastest. Every second Sunday in June, more than 1,500 run the Dipsea, dozens volunteer and hundreds wait at the fi nish line as longtime announcer Barry Spitz welcomes the fi nishers. You don’t have to be in any of these aforementioned categories to enjoy the fun — there’s always the joy of people-watching. dipsea.org
There’s a transit revolution taking place in Larkspur. Of course there’s the ferry, but this year marks three more earth-friendly additions: the newly completed bike-pedestrian bridge over East Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, the arrival of the New Wheel electric bike shop and the SMART train that’s due to start running at the end of the year. With all these alternatives in place, encouraging people to ditch the car has never been more enticing. Who knows, the lower traffic volume might even help convince those of us who haven’t yet made the switch. newwheel.net, sonomamarintrain.org
Every December since 1975, a group of people has been gathering in southern Marin to participate in the Marin Audubon Society ’s annual Christmas bird count. The count, which is open to all and free, is a part of a larger census of birds in the Western Hemisphere and helps scientists track populations. So whether you’re an avid birder or are looking for a new holiday family tradition, check out this long-running one. marinaudubon.org
EVERYONE LOVES
And Marin has its share of heartwarming community pride processions. These top the list.
Bolinas Fourth of July Parade
Corte Madera Fourth of July Parade
Mill Valley’s Memorial Day Parade
San Rafael Lighted Boat Parade
Sausalito Lighted Boat Parade
We all have to start somewhere. These open mics offer anyone the chance to be a star for the night.
In San Rafael at the Pro Blues Jam, the Fenix Band pays tribute to a famous artist or genre. Guests are invited to join and can get a video of their performance for $25. fenixlive.com
Every single Wednesday, burgeoning performers head to HopMonk Novato’s Session Room and try to make it big. Artists get eight minutes max or two songs, whichever comes first. hopmonk. com/novato
It’s only fair that this Fairfax bar known for nightly music performances gives the community a chance to show what they can do, and every Monday, it does. perisbar.com
MUSIC HALL Austin de Lone hosts this open mic night most Mondays in Mill Valley. Contact the venue before 4 p.m. to sign up. sweetwater musichall.com
Fairfax Variety more than lives up to its name. Need something for the kitchen (a spatula, mixer, place mats)? Something for the kids (school supplies, party hats, science projects)? How about matching goodie bags, paddleballs, a Mrs. Potato Head, rubber chickens, key rings or a broom? You’ll find it all here. 415.457.2580
Soxalito of Sausalito has fun gifts that actually have a purpose. This place stocks socks in every imaginable color in styles that appeal to every imaginable personality. Plus, as gift-giver you sidestep the awkward question of size, since choices here are mostly one fits all. soxalito.com
If any store could exemplify Marin at its best, it’s Good Earth Natural Foods , which from a Fairfax storefront in 1969 became one of the county’s first retailers devoted to locally
sourced organic food. Recently owners Mark Squire and Al Baylacq opened a second location in Tamalpais Valley, an area that’s been without a grocery store since DeLano’s market shuttered in 2010. Good Earth’s commitment to community takes many forms: donations to local schools, lobbying for transparency about products made with GMOs, hosting educational speakers and culinary demos. Oh, and the hot-bar foods are a lifesaver for timecrunched families. genatural.com
Mill Valley resident Margaret O’Leary began selling her hand-loomed knitwear to Bay Area boutiques in 1990 when she emigrated here from Ireland. Within a year, Barneys discovered her and orders multiplied. The knitwear line grew into a full collection, which led O’Leary to open her first store on San Francisco’s Claude Lane. Now there are 14 Margaret O’Leary boutiques on the East and West Coast, including the Mill Valley flagship store. “My motto is ‘Live every day in style,’ and by that I mean the Marin lifestyle, which so often involves a blend of activities, from work to kids,” O’Leary says. margaretoleary.com
Good things are worth waiting for, and after 13 months of construction, Abode Marin has opened its 112-inch-tall glass doors on Larkspur’s Magnolia Avenue. Founder and Marin-based interior designer Julia Robberts (two b’s) started the shop geared to home-dwellers and the professionals who help them create their dream space. Our favorite part of the showroom is the buildyour-own-pillow station, like Build-a-Bear for adults. abodemarin.com
In a county known to have a bit of discretionary income, it’s no surprise people love to shop. These spots have what you need or what you didn’t know you needed.
Composed of 7 on Locust, Kress, Henrybuilt, Poet and the Bench and the Parlor, this newly formed area — christened the Mill Valley Design District — features everything from clothing, jewelry, vintage goods and antiques to an eco-friendly hair salon. In no other place in the county could you design your kitchen and bath, then walk next door and try on some equestrian-inspired fashion. Regular events include launch and block parties, talks and trunk shows.
BRANDED Natalie Boatright, a Marin Catholic and Academy of Art University alumna, opened this boutique with Kannyn January, owner of San Francisco's Ambiance stores. 415.888.2135
FAMOUS4
This Mill Valley men’s and women’s store began in 1986 as Famous For Our Look and spotlights local designers alongside fine international labels. famous4.net
KOZE
Led by Darla Fisher, this Tiburon shop offers more than 50 years of combined staff retail expertise. Look for labels with a heart-shaped flag indicating the product is made in America. getkoze.com
UKO
Known for clothes by designers from Europe, Japan and Korea as well as the U.S., UKO originated in San Francisco in 1988 and now has a Mill Valley store. ukoboutique.com
VIVA DIVA
Since 1997, owner Amy Anderson has run this downtown San Rafael shop aiming to provide an honest, encouraging and “girl-friendy” space. vivadivaboutique.com
Need that notion or potion for your next fete? Here are our top picks in six towns.
HUDSON GRACE They have done the thinking for you; you just have to put down your card and take home the gift of grace. hudsongracesf.com
TERRESTRA Brightly colored home goods, sparkles and more. terrestra.com
WEATHERED NEST
Everything from metallic tattoos to housewarming “Beach This Way” signs to sparkling rings galore. weatherednest.net
TOBY’S FEED BARN
Give the essence of West Marin with a pick from Toby’s well-curated range. tobysfeedbarn.com
FIG GARDEN Surprisingly great prices and lots of fun items like jewelry, candles and capes. 415.457.9443
SAUSALITO FERRY COMPANY Unique toys and goods to make you laugh and possibly blush. sausalitoferry.com
TIBURON CHRISTOPHER’S HOME Unique nautical-themed gifts and much more. christopher-salon.com
Outdoor yoga is all about harmonizing with nature, and to that end there’s no better studio than Marin’s great outdoors. Yoga Ventures has classes combining yoga with a hike from Rodeo Beach that ends on a hilltop platform overlooking the Tennessee Valley beach. Prefer to stretch at sea level? Swap your mat for a stand-up paddleboard and find your balance on the water at OnBoardSUP yoga. Classes launch daily from behind the Bay Model visitor center in Sausalito. yogaventures.org, onboardsup.com
The best golf spot in Marin County is a championship course with lush greens, fairways and practice facilities, including the county’s only all-grass driving range. Peacock Gap Golf Club in San Rafael also earns high marks for being less hilly than others and offering beautiful vistas. Throw in a new fleet of golf carts equipped with GPS yardage systems and the ability to order food at the touch of a button, and you have a true duffer’s dream. But that’s not all: there’s a clubhouse perfect for meetings or weddings, along with daily food specials and occasional live music at RangeCafe Bar and Grill. peacockgapgolfclub.com
the way to seasoned vets. Prizes go to the top three finishers in each division and age range, but the emphasis is more on fun. A post-race brunch includes salads, pastas, hot dogs and local beer. Friends hang out and friends are made. What’s not to like? 101surfsports.com
This small business of the year recently opened a shop in the South Bay, but it’s also still business as usual at 101 Surf Sports in San Rafael. On any given day you’ll find a group of good people living a fun, healthy life out on the water; here you can buy the gear or goods needed to join them. Best of all are the races: for the past four years, folks with outrigger canoes, surf skis, kayaks, prone paddleboards and SUPs have all been gathering at the start of fall to traverse 2- to 7-mile courses — competing in races for beginners all
Mike’s Bikes doesn’t exist simply to sell bikes — the company works tirelessly to bolster all aspects of the cycling community. This means free maintenance workshops, organized group rides and the work of the Mike’s Bikes Foundation, which helps bring bikes to communities in Africa where walking is the only transportation. That the Bay Area stores, including two in Marin, are staffed by friendly and knowledgeable salespeople — well, that’s the icing on the cake. mikesbikes.com
With seven state parks and about 18,500 acres of open space, the opportunities to explore in Marin seem endless, possibly overwhelming. But there’s a good guided resource for at least one locale: the Friends of Mt. Tam hold hikes for all levels on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, with weekly themes and a special Saturday moonlight hike that occurs, you guessed it, under a full moon. friendsofmttam.org
In a studio, outside, on the water or on the roads, Marin has many exciting, fun and often scenic exercise options. Here are some you won’t want to miss.
We asked, you answered, we vetted and now we share. Here’s a sample of some of the classes taught by Marin’s top instructors. Exercise your mind by matching these instructors with their studios.✽
TIME 6 a.m.–9 a.m. 9 a.m.–noon Noon–3 p.m. 3 p.m.–6 p.m. 6 p.m.–plus
SUNDAY
8 – Wendy 8:30 – TJ 9:45 – Maggie 9 – Jessica 9:30 – Susan 11 – Christian , TJ 11:45 – Steph
MONDAY
WEDNESDAY
THURSDAY
FRIDAY
4 – Nina, Steph 4:30 – Ed, TJ 7 – Nina
NEW OM WORLD (Corte Madera) newomworld.com Susan Hauser, Yoga Christian Allaire , Yoga Lori Holscher, TRXFuse Heather McKenzie , SHRED
RIPPED BODY FITNESS (Mill Valley) rippedbodyfit.com JT Peterson , Cardio Strength Training
6 – Susan 6:15 – TJ 6:30 – Ed, JT 7 – Steph 9 – Susan 9:15 – Mandy 9:30 – Nikki, TJ 10:30 – Mandy 5:30 – TJ 6:30 – Ed 7 – Nina
RED DRAGON YOGA (Mill Valley, San Rafael) reddragonyoga.com Ed Levinson , Yoga Becca Sogge , Yoga Wendy Medeiros , Yoga
YOGAWORKS (Larkspur, Novato) yogaworks.com Lesley Desaulniers , In Studio Nikki Estrada , Yoga
6 – Lori, Steph 6:15 – TJ 6:30 – Becca, JT
9 – Annie, Nikki, Rich 9:30 – Lesley 10:15 – Heather 10:30 – Nina 11:15 – Nikki
12 – Nina 1 – Becca 5 – Susan 6:30 – Becca
6 – Susan 6:15 – TJ 9:30 – Nikki 10 – JT 10:15 – Valerie 12 – TJ 4:30 – Ed 5 – TJ 6:15 – Christian 7 – Nina
6 – Steph, Lori 6:30 – Anne-Marie 9 – JT, Susan , Nikki 9:30 – Ana, Lesley 9:50 – Anne-Marie 10 – Annie 11:30 – Becca
12 – Lori 1 – Becca 4:30 – Wendy 5:30 – TJ 6 – TJ 6:30 – Becca
6 – Susan 6:15 – TJ 6:30 – JT 7 – Steph 8 – Lori 8:30 – Ed
9 – JT, Heather 9:15 – Jessica 9:30 – Nikki, Grace, TJ 9:50 – Anne-Marie 10:30 – Mandy 11 – Anne-Marie
12 – Ed, Mandy 4:30 – Ed 5 – Christain 6 – Ed
7:30 – Steph 8 – JT, Mandy 9 – JT, Susan , Mandy 10 – Becca 11 – Christian 12 – Becca 4:30 – Ed, Christian
ROCO DANCE STUDIO (Mill Valley, Fairfax) rocodance.com Annie Rosenthal Parr, Parr Technique Ana Hyatt , Pilates Mat Class
PURE BARRE (Mill Valley, San Rafael) purebarre.com Mandy Goepp , Pure Barre Nina Falls , Pure Barre
LOLA (Mill Valley) teamlola.com Rich Juarez , Fast Pass
NOVATO YMCA (Novato) ymcasf.org Valerie Harbidge , INSANITY
SOULCYCLE (Larkspur) soulcycle.com Steph Peters , SoulCycle
MARIN POWER YOGA (San Anselmo) marinpoweryoga.com Grace Yu , Yoga
THE DAILEY METHOD (Novato) thedaileymethod.com Anne-Marie McMahan , Dailey Interval Maggie Calegari , Dailey Barre
BAY CLUB MARIN (Corte Madera) bayclubs.com Jessica Frangione , Rhythm Ride
TJ’S GYM (Corte Madera, San Rafael, Mill Valley) tjsgym.com TJ Belger, Crossfit
✽
As the name implies, Playland of Sausalito is nonstop fun for young children. Besides four in flatable jumpy houses, it features an air-hockey table, cars, a toddler zone and big bouncy balls. Just off he main area, a quieter alcove serves as an art room with reading tables, coloring books and three train tables. There’s free coffee for parents, and children receive a balloon animal on departure. mttamadventures.com/playland-sausalito
Splurge on your well-being at Cavallo Point’s Healing Arts Center and Spa in Sausalito. The 60-minute signature facial will set you back $165, a chakra cleansing and balancing $250, and a two-hour Thai massage $350. But it’s money well spent, especially if you take advantage of the day-use amenities, which include a heated meditation pool, eucalyptus steam , fitness room and morning yoga class. Alternately, you can buy a day pass for just $65 — it doesn’t cover any spa services but does provide access to the amenities. Not a bad way to spend the day. cavallopoint.com
Sausalito resident Kayse Gehret did not come up with the concept of massage at affordable, accessible prices, but she is working to perfect it. Her first Soulstice Mind + Body Spa location in Santa Rosa employs the same folks as the big-name wine country spas at half the cost to the client, and now, at her Sausalito location therapists have already created their own followings. Membership starts at $69 a month for a one-hour massage whenever you want it — if you don’t use it, the hour rolls to the next month and can even be gifted to a friend. 415.729.9121
Andalou Naturals is not just the best-selling natural skin care brand in the nation — sold in more than 11,000 retail locations and in more than 22 countries worldwide — it also started right here in Novato. Husband-and-wife Marin natives Stacey and Mark Egide, the co-CEOs and
We’ve all heard that beauty is only skin deep and is in the eye of the beholder, but that doesn’t mean we can’t help it along a bit. Here are a few top spots for healthy pampering and a few of our favorite products.
founders, have made it their mission to raise the bar in the natural beauty industry for the past 30 years and counting. Andalou products are Non-GMO Project verified, certified organic, fair trade, gluten free, cruelty free, and certified vegetarian and vegan … and 100 percent good for you to use daily. andalou.com
Modern life is complicated. There’s always a bill to be paid, car maintenance to be done or a relative’s birthday you forgot about till a Facebook reminder popped up. And maintenance extends beyond vehicles and yards; we require it, too. Lots of different kinds. Fortunately, Milvali salon — in, you guessed it, Mill Valley — does a good job of simplifying that process. Here myriad beauty needs are met: hair styling and waxing, facial and lash treatments, tanning and makeup application. Operating for more than a decade, Milvali has also amassed numerous awards (including this one), most notably for hair extensions. Truly a full-service spot for a complete tune-up. milvali.com
No one said beauty comes cheap — but it can come easy. And with the opening of International Orange Spa at Marin Country Mart, it just got even easier. Besides the large new space offering facials and massage, here you can buy Preserve Pads, the brainchild of IO estheticians Jennifer Gallegos and Jennie Hearn. The duo created these easy-to-use disposable pads to encourage their busy clients to wash their faces — apparently an important step in maintaining the benefits of a facial. And for those worried about waste, these pleasantsmelling discs are 100 percent biodegradable and made with natural ingredients. A jar of 45 pads retails for $38; refill packages are $31. internationalorange.com
Evo Spa, pronounced “eh voh,” as in evolution, belies its strip mall exterior. For more than two decades, Gail Ann and her crew have treated Marin’s tired, sore and weary with a variety of modalities. The Mill Valley spa offers unique treatments such as a FarInfrared Sauna, said to not only remove heavy metals and fat-soluble toxins but burn up to 600 calories per session; BioMat, included with every massage and developed by NASA, which employs negative ion therapy to vitalize cell metabolism and an amethyst quartz crystal to detoxify; and for the face, the multihued LED light treatment, intended to rejuvenate, stimulate collagen production, address bad acne and promote a more vibrant and youthful complexion. evo-spa.com
The tip of your finger is a great place to show a little style. Here are five places that will keep your nails looking their best.
This new Mill Valley salon offers services for men and women (as the name implies) as well as a monthly membership where unused services roll over and don’t expire. dollsanddandy.com
Whether it’s a manicure, a pedicure or a gel manicure, the quality of work here is first-rate. With an expansive polish selection and rose-petal footbaths, you can’t go wrong. 415.456.9701
Pricing is competitive at this Novato salon, but no corners are cut — all the tools come in wrapped sterile packages. High standards, plus catering to clients’ needs and a winning hospitality, make NJ Nails tops. 415.717.9775
Offering gel extensions — a less toxic and longer-lasting alternative to acrylics — Polish is one of San Rafael’s best salons. Expect water, tea and courtesy. 415.258.9218
At this establishment you’ll find a professional and friendly staff and an even better quality of service. The cleanliness and the skill of manicurists are also exemplary. 415.332.1689
As the national park system celebrates its centennial, Marin’s incomparable national seashore faces promise and controversy.
BY PETER FISH • PHOTOS BY JACK WOLFORD
To experience summer morning at its most beautiful, Point Reyes National Seashore’s Estero Trail is hard to beat. You park at the trailhead, you follow the path through grasslands. A rabbit leaps out of your way. California quail skitter. Cattle stand silhouetted on a far hillside and above them spreads a John Constable sky: white, buxom clouds, flashes of sunlight.
In 10 minutes you’re there: the estero, gray mud fl ats ribboned with silver water flowing toward Drakes Bay. As the place name indicates, there’s history here — it’s said that somewhere along this inlet Sir Francis Drake became the fi rst European to bump into California. There is also an abiding sense of serenity.
That serenity may be deceptive. The San Andreas Fault runs a few miles to the east; this entire peninsula is being yanked away from the North American continent. Sir Francis Drake? The location of his landing spot has sparked ferocious arguments for decades, even if the park service is commemorating him with a marker here later this year. The national seashore itself was the product of fierce debates. And those cows? They’re a controversy all to themselves.
It’s a beautiful place, Point Reyes National Seashore. But this year, as the National Park Service celebrates its 100th birthday — the official date is August 25 — it faces big questions about what the next century will hold.
JOHN DELL’OSSO IS HAPPY to enumerate all the ways Point Reyes National Seashore is special. “There’s the abundance of human and natural resources,” he says in his office at park headquarters in Bear Valley. “Eighteen percent of all the flowering plant species in California are found here. Fifty-two percent of the bird species in all of North America have been seen here. We have 60 species of mammals, both marine and terrestrial. Then you go to the human history side with the Coast Miwok people, who have been here
Limantour Beach is a long and narrow spit of sand between Drakes Bay and an estuary.
for 3,000 to 5,000 years. Do you have that diversity in other national parks? In some. But not many.”
Dell’Osso may be biased. As Point Reyes’ chief of interpretation and resource education, he’s in charge of the helping the public understand the seashore. And this slice of California has been his life: he’s worked here for 30 years.
Still, Dell’Osso isn’t indulging in hyperbole. The seashore is a special place. Its 70,000 acres include 33,000 acres of wilderness and 80 miles of coastline that range from sheltered to craggy. Its high points may not wow with sheer elevation (Mount Vision rises only 1,280 feet) but the views are to die for.
So beautiful is this place that it’s easy to think, well, of course it’s been protected. In fact, the battle to bring Point Reyes into the national park system was hard-fought. To understand why, you have to travel back in time to 1960.
The years previous had been boom ones for Marin County and for the entire Bay Area. Between 1950 and 1960, Marin grew from
87,700 residents in 1950 to 148,800, and many hoped for even faster growth in the future. Much of the new development was concentrated along Highway 101. But builders looked at West Marin and said, why not develop there too? Suburban dreams blossomed. Marincello, the 150,000-person city planned for the Marin Headlands, was the most famous. But in Point Reyes projects like Drakes Bay Estates — “an exclusive recreational and residential beach development” — were nearing approval.
Citizen groups like the Point Reyes National Seashore Foundation rose up to fight the plans — by making Point Reyes a national park. It wasn’t easy. One challenge: the park service itself. Traditionally, national parks had celebrated singular natural wonders like Yellowstone’s geysers or Sequoia’s giant redwoods. However ecologically important, the more subtle beauties of an unspoiled coastline were a new priority. And local opposition was fierce. Point Reyes had a century-old heritage of cattle and dairy ranching. While many
Eighteen percent of all the flowering plant species in California are found here. Fiftytwo percent of the bird species in all of North America have been seen here.This page: The winding path to Kehoe Beach. Opposite, clockwise from left: The historic Point Reyes Lighthouse; an aerial showing Tomales Point; horseback riding at Wildcat.
LIGHTHOUSE The 1870-vintage light station has insane Pacific views and now the small but engaging Ocean Discovery Center to go with its existing exhibits. West end of Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, 20 miles west of Bear Valley Visitor Center. Open Friday–Monday, but check nps.gov/ pore for current hours.
On Sir Francis Drake Boulevard 10 miles west of Bear Valley Visitor Center — watch for North District Operation Center sign. Open noon–4 p.m., Saturdays
POINT
HOSTEL Park access is unparalleled, the price is right — from $29 for a dorm bed to $105 for a private room — and the ambience is IKEAinviting, not aged hippie. norcalhostels.org/reyes
ESTERO TRAIL The seashore is laced with good trails, but this one is especially appealing — it’s short (two miles round-trip if you go only to the bridge over the estero) and easy, and the views are lovely. Off Sir Francis Drake Boulevard about two miles past Pierce Point Road; follow signs to trailhead.
KAYAKING Blue Waters
Kayaking leads tours of Tomales Bay and Drakes Estero; bluewaterskayaking.com. Other outfitters running tours include Point Reyes Outdoors, pointreyesoutdoors.com.
ranchers supported the seashore, others saw an unwanted federal takeover of their lands. The Marin Independent Journal ran a commentary entitled “Point Reyes Seashore? No!” and San Francisco radio station KCBS broadcast its own editorial saying that scrubby Point Reyes wasn’t pretty enough to preserve.
Working with sympathetic representatives like Congressman Clem Miller and Sen. Clair Engle, the preservationists fought back. One potent weapon was a book, Island in Time: The Point Reyes Peninsula , by science journalist Harold Gilliam with photography by Philip Hyde. In his introduction, Gilliam wrote, “By some incredible aberration, this area has escaped, thus far, the frenetic tides of human activity that elsewhere in the region have erased the evidence of history, the plant and animal life, the natural forms of the land. This is the Point Reyes Peninsula — Island in Time.”
It must have helped: President John F. Kennedy signed the bill establishing Point Reyes National Seashore on September 13, 1962.
BY MIDMORNING, POINT REYES is busy. At the Bear Valley trailhead, a Union City Boy Scout troop is putting on backpacks, ready for the trek to Sky Camp, one of the seashore’s three backcountry camps. At Point Reyes Hostel, Nancy Reynolds directs guests to the Laguna Trail.
The backpackers and the hostel guests are spending the night, of course. But most of the seashore’s 2.5 million annual visitors are daytrippers, here for only two to six hours. “That’s always been a challenge for us,” Dell’Osso says. How do you get people to appreciate the park, when they’re so pressed for time? The seashore depends on educational showmanship, like the new Ocean Exploration Center that opened at Point Reyes Lighthouse in June. And on the cadre of volunteer docents who explain everything from whales to wild flowers.
Point Reyes can grab your attention all on its own, of course. It may not have geysers or giant sequoias, but it has its subdued grandeur. Walk Limantour Beach or hike Inverness Ridge, and you find yourself thinking, this is
Opposite: A tree-lined path near Wildcat Beach. This page: John F. Kennedy signs the bill establishing Point Reyes National Seashore.
The seashore is a special place. Its 70,000 acres include 33,000 acres of wilderness and 80 miles of coastline that range from sheltered to craggy.
This page: Sand and surf at Limantour Beach.
Opposite: Point Reyes is the only U.S. national park where tule elk can be found.
why I live in Northern California. You realize that Point Reyes offers that most valuable travel experience of all: when you’re there, you aren’t thinking about anyplace else.
POINT REYES IS BIG enough to contain surprises. There are the well-known attractions: Point Reyes Lighthouse, the tule elk that graze at the seashore’s north end. But there are also quirkier finds. The poignant Life-Saving Service Cemetery. The stable of Morgan horses. (“They’re getting on,” Dell’Osso says. “But the head of the park service rode one of them in the Rose Parade this year.”)
And, on the way to the lighthouse, one particular treasure: the old RCA wireless receiving station. From 1929 into the 1990s this station handled communications for ships all across the Pacific. Stop by on Saturday afternoon and you’ll see headphone-wearing volunteer radio operators working as if it were 1938.
Chief Operator Richard Ullman will show you an impressive array of radio equipment and artifacts like the copy of the logbook in which the station transcribed the first news of the attack on Pearl Harbor — the Day of Infamy announced in Morse code.
THAT’S THE THING about Point Reyes — as much as it might not want to be, it is connected to the rest of the world. It’s an island in time, but time washes over it, and changes in the outside world eventually make themselves known here, like messages floating on radio waves across the Paci fic.
One recent 21st-century challenge, Dell’Osso says, was the crowd-sourced crisis at the trailhead in Palomarin, in the south end of the park. “We started getting overwhelmed with visitors.” Social media sleuthing revealed the cause. “It turned out when people Google-mapped ‘How do I get to Point Reyes National Seashore’ from
explains. “We had to contact Google and ask, ‘can you direct people to Bear Valley instead?’ ”
There have been other, more serious confl icts — notably how to balance the seashore’s mandate to preserve the natural environment with its tradition of allowing agriculture use. Two years ago, the battle over Drakes Bay Oyster Company made headlines as the park service refused to extend the lease of the oyster farm on the grounds that it harmed the environmentally sensitive bay.
Now a new fight is brewing over ranching operations. Dairy and cattle ranching have a long history here, and the legislation that established the seashore allowed it to continue. Ranching draws support both from area politicians and from groups like the Marin Agriculture Land Trust. But a trio of environmental groups — the Resource Renewal Institute, the Western Watersheds Institute and the Center for Biological Diversity — have brought suit against the park service, arguing that in the 21st century ranching may no longer be the best use of the land.
The person in the hot seat over these issues is park superintendent Cecily Muldoon. She has an unusual perspective on Point Reyes. While her park service career has taken her all over the country, she grew up in Sausalito
— so coming here was a homecoming. Even the controversies, she says, have their upsides. “One thing you don’t find in Marin is apathy over public lands. It’s good to have a lot of passion around the parks, even when people disagree. Whatever one’s position on any subject might be, it’s rooted in the love for this extraordinary landscape.”
IF YOU’RE LOOKING to experience evening at its most beautiful, a good place is on a kayak in Tomales Bay. The dusk light is different from the morning’s, with a soft mist blurring the bay, the calm shoreline and the forested slopes of Mount Vision — not Constable so much as Monet.
We’re on a Blue Waters Kayaking trip led by guide Liz Wilhelm. She’s proof of the passion that Point Reyes can inspire — she has the outline of the peninsula tattooed on her calf.
“Paddle now,” she says to the novice kayaker in the front of her boat. She says to be on the lookout for rays in the water and waterbirds like diving ducks.
You paddle, you peer, you think that if any place deserved to be commemorated with a tattoo it’s this one. All the congressional fights, the arguments over oysters and cows were about this: the water, the shoreline, the distant mountain. You think, you may want to return tomorrow. And that when you do Point Reyes seashore will still be there. m
The National Park System looks at the the next hundred years.
The National Park System celebrates its 100th birthday this month. But the NPS — and all the people and groups who love and use national parks — are also asking questions about what the parks’ priorities for the next century should be. These are the most important trends.
Make Parks More Relevant Traditionally, the prime audience for national parks has been white, middle class and middle aged. That no longer reflects California or the U.S., says Scott Gediman, chief public information officer at Yosemite. “It’s our responsibility to reach out to the next generation — to show them the value of parks. Otherwise, there’s no guarantee parks will still be protected.”
One organization working hard to reach out is San Francisco–based NatureBridge, which offers educational programs in many California national parks. In Yosemite, its WildLink program takes kids from underserved populations and leads them on weeklong treks into the Sierra backcountry. “These are kids who haven’t been to a national park before, haven’t hiked before,” says Yosemite NatureBridge Director Kristina Rylands. “We provide all the gear and the food and they go out with our educators for a week. We want to connect them with the values of wilderness.”
Citizen Science Parks are vital centers for environmental research and now, more than ever, ordinary citizens are helping out. “Citizen science has become a very powerful way for people without advanced training to help save nature,” says San Francisco environmental writer Mary Ellen Hannibal, whose book Citizen Scientist: Searching for Heroes and Hope in an Age of Extinction comes out this month. The California Academy of Sciences sponsors programs in many Northern California parks, using its iNaturalist mobile app.
Restore, Restore, Restore Some of the best park news comes when the park service fixes damage done in the past. At Point Reyes National Seashore, restoration of the Giacomini Wetlands has increased the population of shorebirds like the least sandpiper; directors hope the seashore’s current dune restoration project will have equally beneficial effects. In Yosemite, restoration of the iconic Mariposa Grove of sequoias is scheduled for completion next year.
People have been walking through this Sausalito door for 50 years. One group has been doing so daily for a good portion of that time.
Old and new friends have shared more than 10,000 morning meals at the same table.
BY TOM JAMES • PHOTOS BY JACK WOLFORD
regular cast of characters gathers around the stammtisch table in the corner; somebody has to get there first.
NNEARLY HALF OF ALL meals in America are now eaten in solitude. Think about that number from the Food Marketing Institute for a minute. Because no doubt, you’ve contributed to that statistic. Eating, especially at breakfast, often means grabbing a quick bite solo and eating while standing up. It’s more utilitarian than social.
But that’s not the case for a group of Marin locals. Almost daily, for at least 35 years, they’ve been meeting for breakfast at the unassuming Fred’s Place in Sausalito. Every weekday at 7 a.m. more or less the same attendees are in the same seats at the same round wooden table overlooking Bridgeway, where they eat pretty much the same meal as they had the day before. Every day. 7 a.m. For 35 years.
second language. She found her current partner Rodger on eHarmony in 2007 after he mentioned his long friendship with a group of men he meets for breakfast every day. She was impressed.
• DIETER RAPP is an interpreter and translator. Rapp, a child of post–World War II Germany, came to Sausalito at age 30 because it reminded him of French towns on the Mediterranean and stayed to enjoy the weather and liberal scene. He’s been at stammtisch some 40-odd years.
• JOHN LIBBERTON , born in New Jersey in 1924 and raised in Chicago, is the oldest at the table. Currently he’s doing some jewelry making and is a sculptor but has been an advertising agency executive and a TV and radio voice-over artist.
• RUTH SHELBY was born in Michigan, spent time in the Peace Corps, taught English in Turkey, came to San Francisco in 1966 and began teaching English as a
• RODGER MARCH , an Ohio native, arrived in San Francisco in 1962 fresh from the navy. He moved to Sausalito in 1974 and lived on and built floating homes. After just a few weeks in Sausalito, he made Fred’s part of his morning routine.
• JEFFREY K. WINN , born in Illinois in 1942, grew up in Ohio. In 1969 he moved to San Francisco to be manager of National Car Rental’s truck division, then moved to Sausalito in 1971. By 1972 he had his own truck rental company, which he sold in 2010.
• WALTER G. WESTER was born in 1930 in Santa Rosa and moved to San Francisco in 1960 after a stint in the navy. He traveled extensively for various international business companies until 1982, when he semi-retired and began flying seaplane tours out of Mill Valley.
Imagine going to a restaurant today, then again tomorrow, and pretty much every day until 2051. That’s what’s happening at Fred’s Place.
It must be the most incredible restaurant in the world, right? Well, Fred’s Place is good — people do love it. But it’s not every-day-for-35-years good. Nowhere is. Clearly, this gathering isn’t about the food. It is about the company.
That’s just how Fred Peters wanted it. Fifty years ago when the fine-hotel-and-restaurant-trained immigrant from Germany started a Sausalito hamburger joint called Fred’s Place, he wanted to create a social center as much as an eating establishment — so he also imported the German concept of stammtisch, or shared tables. He wanted a place someone could come in and comfortably sit down with strangers, stay a while and make a few new friends.
Back in the mid-’60s when Fred started his place, Sausalito was a small waterfront-focused happy hippie haven of artists and revelers. It was a bunch of wharf rats mingling with local, soon-to-be-national icons such as Bill Graham, Francis Ford Coppola, the Grateful Dead and Janis Joplin. It was a scene.
Fred himself was a big personality, “a force of nature” on the docks, as one of the current breakfast club member recalls. Those who came to Fred’s at first were just a funloving group who knew each other from the houseboat scene in Sausalito. Since Fred lived on a houseboat, the partygoers often ended up at Fred’s Place for breakfast. Fred’s was their dining room, living room and social hall all in one. “Fred had the foresight to have round tables — perfect for group gatherings and making everyone equals,” the regular says. “Plus there was always room for one more.”
Nowadays, those revelers aren’t out all night and Fred has since passed away, succumbing to cancer in 1988 at age 53, but they’re all still coming into this one-room eatery at 1917 Bridgeway.
If you get to Fred’s early enough, many people at the counter or at scattered tables are wearing baseball hats, hiding groggy faces and messy hair, hoping the day doesn’t find them. But no one at the stammtisch table wears that look anymore. Every person at the table is neatly groomed, bright-eyed and ready to go. “One of the best benefits of the early morning meal is that no one is drinking,” a stammtisch
Almost daily, for at least 35 years, they’ve been meeting for breakfast at the unassuming Fred’s Place in Sausalito.
named Rodger notes. “People are at their brightest at the start of the day.”
Other than the sturdy metal sign that says “Stammtisch,” you’ve seen tables like this before: round, heavy-worn oak, surrounded by a cast of characters that could easily be mistaken for poker tournament contestants. And like the poker players, those around the stammtisch are in many ways very much alike — all drawn to Sausalito via San Francisco in the ’60s as part of the baby boomer generation that de fi ned San Francisco and later Marin. Now, all wiser, mellower and exuding a confident sense of having been there before: you get the feeling in their faces that
there is nothing they didn’t see when they were younger. It was after all, the ’60s and ’70s. This crowd was Marin before Marin was.
As far as I can tell, there’s never been, until now, a photo of a meal taken at this table. That’s not to say the group is tech-averse. Phones are used to Google facts or show pictures previously taken. John Libberton, at 92 years old, has his complete sculpting portfolio on his iPhone, which he shows offfrequently. But no one is texting, emailing or posting to Instagram. Any news these folks are getting is likely coming from one of the many newspapers littering the table, not from a Facebook feed on a smartphone.
They go stretches without talking but it’s a comfortable quiet, with their eyes down in their respective New York Timeses, Wall Street Journals, Marin IJs and San Francisco Chronicle s, eating their eggs. Then someone will put his paper down, his eyes will light up, and with a little introduction about what he just read, all the papers will be set aside and a new conversation will begin.
So are they a group of burnt-out lonely hippies? Hardly. Among the roster are a Ph.D., a medical doctor, a plastic surgeon, a lawyer, an architect, a sailor, an interpreter, a houseboat builder, an inventor, a realtor, a builder, a craftsman, a teacher and many other professionals.
There are no rules for the table. Anyone can talk about anything. One day a stammtischer mentioned to me that he records Rush Limbaugh daily and is a Trump supporter. This proclamation didn’t cause a single head to lift. The liberal side of the table kept reading and the conservative voice kept pushing: “Rush has been the most consistently intelligent voice on the radio for years.” Again, no one responded. They’ve heard it all before. One stammtischer con fides that
• “Somehow, after 50 years, the spirit of Fred still endures,” longtime customer Dieter Rapp recalls laughingly. “But there are big differences — Fred’s never used to have checks. Fred would come around and in his thick German accent ask, ‘What did you had?’ after you were done eating. You’d tell him and he’d tell you what to pay.”
Fred’s has never been that lonely coffee shop immortalized by Edward Hopper’s painting “Nighthawks.” Fred’s widow Christine saw to that. As the building owner, she made sure new leaseholders didn’t change things like pictures on the wall or the seating policy.
“When the current owner of Fred’s bought the building we were scared,” Dieter admits. “Luckily he was smart enough not to change the character of the place. He made it better — new windows, new chairs, more food options ... but the spirit is the same.”
• WHAT DOES BREAKFAST AT THE STAMMTISCH TABLE PROVIDE FOR YOU?
Dieter: Friendship, entertainment, feedback, information and a sounding board for ideas.
Rodger: I like to have someone to talk to and share the morning paper — someone who will listen to my stories and laugh at my jokes. I like bright, witty, topical conversation with friends who know my history, and I know theirs. While I have that at home with Ruth, I still come in for the communal chats.
Jeff: Friendship and stimulation. There are some good minds at this table.
Ruth: A sense of belonging to an elite club of intelligent people who are a source of friendship and information.
• ARE YOU FRIENDS OUTSIDE OF BREAKFAST AND WERE YOU FRIENDS BEFORE THE STAMMTISCH?
Rodger: In times past, for 10 years or so we had group Christmas dinners, canoe trips, summer solstice picnics on Mount Tam and significant birthday parties. I met all of these people at Fred’s.
Dieter: Years ago we sometimes went on camping trips together; now contact is mostly limited to the get-togethers in the morning. But we played together quite a bit. For me, most of the friendships developed at the stammtisch table.
John: Not in my case.
Ruth: I met everyone when Rodger and I got
together. We occasionally see each other outside of breakfast — we may have dinner together with another couple. I do email several of them as well, either to send an interesting forward or on some stammtisch business. In years past we used to go to Dieter’s house for a pumpkin-carving evening with dessert afterwards, and for many years we had a Christmas dinner together in a nice restaurant.
• WHAT ARE CONVERSATION TOPICS?
Ruth: We tell stories from our past and bring up problems we have with our neighbors, dogs, government, etc. We ask things like “where can I get my brakes, toaster, shoes fixed?”
Asking if you saw the game yesterday is common, but sports aren’t big. There is a lot of “how was your trip.” There is never any swearing, offcolor jokes, complaints about aches and pains or grumbles about our spouses.
Dieter: I grew up with a stammtisch. When Mom said go get Dad I knew where to go.
The concept of gathering at a public place is something I was born with. You talk about events, health concerns, personal experiences, local and international events — pretty much everything except politics if I can avoid it.
Jeff: The news, responsibilities, projects.
Rodger: Travel, news about our jobs, law problems, real estate, movies, art shows and museums, some construction stories and problems. We reminisce about the past, sailing and boats. Little is said about sports, aches and pains or politics.
• DO YOU FEEL GUILTY IF YOU MISS A BREAKFAST? DO YOU FEEL LIKE YOU ARE MISSING ANYTHING?
Dieter: Yes! Coming home to Fred’s from anywhere in the world feels right.
Jeff: I don’t if I just miss a couple of days. Everyone sometimes has things to do.
Rodger: Yes, the table is a continuous movie, quite current and topical, and something is always happening.
Ruth: I know Rodger does. It’s a big part of his social scene. I don’t like to miss when someone comes back from a trip. Dieter especially has interesting stories to tell.
•
Dieter: Fred’s has pretty much stayed the same over the decades. Owners changed, personnel changed, but the essence of the place remained — a local hangout with a cozy feel and good food. The “we share tables” motto brings people together. Sausalito has changed as well. There are more young families with kids. Also, now there are more tourists and many more bicycles.
Rodger: There was some change in atmosphere when Fred died, some change in decor when Steve took over, as well as the menu. But most notably, the table is getting smaller (at one time we had a mailing list of 45) and now there are fewer women at the table.
Ruth: When I joined the table there were other women coming from time to time. Now I’m the lone female unless Dieter’s wife comes.
they used to argue some about politics but they’ve learned that no one’s mind is ever changed.
During the month since I fi rst met the group, one member unexpectedly died at age 84. Dieter Rapp, the group’s unofficial leader, acknowledges that at their ages, this is an increasing possibility. Their friend’s immediate absence begged the question, ‘How is this stammtisch sustainable?’ There isn’t new, young blood coming into the group and everyone is over 65.
Rodger, a longtime member who now travels from Berkeley three days a week to join the table, concurs that indeed, there is not much human influx. “If Dieter ever leaves, that would leave a big hole.” Ruth, his partner of 10
years, adds, “If Dieter goes, the group will fall apart.” Dieter, however, says he hopes it will never end.
On any given day members of the group arrive and leave nearly as unnoticed as a server refilling waters. This particular day, by 7:15 a.m., Larry, the plastic surgeon, fi nished his breakfast, quickly got up and was through the back exit wearing his scrubs.
Soon after, Jeffpacked up, Dieter had to run and even John was paying his bill in preparation to leave. There were no real good-byes nor any “when will we see each other agains,” as normally happens when diners at a table go their own ways. These guys already know where and when. Tomorrow. At Fred’s.
Somewhere, Fred is smiling. m
When you think about it, every business is a people business. And it’s not just clients and customers; there are important personalities driving the success of every endeavor. The people who make these businesses live and grow are also the ones you’ll see behind the counter, at a desk or on your doorstep. So take a moment to come face to face with these important Marin personalities.
It’s not what you know, but who you know. Introducing the Faces of Marin.
As 10,000 Degrees Fellows, we are building a critical mass of young leaders who will go on to forever impact their communities and change the world. We believe in each student’s potential and provide them with the resources, tools and mentoring to get to and through college. We strive to raise expectations by telling students, “I know you can do it, because I was once in your shoes.” What sets us apart is our belief.
We serve 5,000 students annually in the North Bay. All of whom are from low-income backgrounds. For our students starting at four-year colleges, 84% of them graduate in six
years, beating the national average of 54%. Our formula works, yet we must do more. In the North Bay alone 42,000 children are living in poverty and educational opportunity is limited by economics and family background. Our future as a nation depends on higher education being accessible for all students.
Together we are creating a cycle of opportunity that ripples through communities and generations. Join us.
1650 Los Gamos Drive, Suite 110, San Rafael, CA 415.459.4240 • 10000degrees.org
With thousands of customers throughout the Bay Area, Window Factory is one of the most reputable window replacement companies in northern California. Founded in 1995, sisters Rachel and Jaclyn are proud secondgeneration owners of a business that has grown under their direction for more than half a decade. They offer 25 combined years of experience in the construction industry and have consistently been recognized for offering top-tier customer service to homeowners.
“We believe our strength is our people. With some of the finest employees in the industry, we have a powerful team
that is extremely knowledgeable, highly-skilled and take great pride in their work and the service we provide.”
From the initial in-home consultation all the way through the installation process, Rachel and Jaclyn are committed to making each window replacement project a positive experience. As mothers, community members, local business owners and woman in construction, this pair treats every client like a family friend and each home as if were their own.
2100 Redwood Highway, Greenbrae, CA 415.924.3300 • bayareawindowfactory.com
We grew up in a large family, working together in our parents’ grocery store, so operating a family-owned neighborhood business has been natural to us. Body Kinetics opened in 1990 with the purpose of transforming the health and well-being of our members. Our intention is to inspire and educate people to take on their own health for the rest of their lives.
We believe in an integrated approach to your health and well-being. Not only are muscle strength, flexibility and cardiovascular endurance emphasized in our approach, we also highlight the importance of nutrition, mindfulness and rest and recovery. We focus on these aspects of
wellness within a supportive community.
We provide many exercise options: personal training, small group training, Pilates, yoga, Zumba, group cycling and more! Please stop by our newest location in San Rafael at 1800 Second Street (the old Yardbirds). Mention you saw us in Marin Magazine and we will give you a complimentary 7-day pass to any of our 3 locations.
We want to be your fitness partner for life!
Mill Valley 415.380.8787 • San Rafael 415.457.2639 Novato 415.895.5965 • bodykinetics.com
I grew up in Mission Viejo, CA, with parents who encouraged my questions – big questions about the world, about how to live a purposeful, meaningful life. I chose a career in education because of its impact. People tend to see Jewish day schools as parochial; I think it’s really the opposite. Brandeis Marin’s superior academics are steeped in universal values. We set a higher, more meaningful bar for success in school and in life. Our students develop a moral compass to light their way, no matter what their Jewish or non-Jewish background. Whether in science lab, writer’s workshop, robotics, visual/media arts, rock
band, or on the fields of our beautiful campus – our kids are known and guided by exceptional faculty to become thinkers, questioners and collaborators. Brandeis Marin alumni go on to be leaders and change-makers. They graduate with the vision, confidence and tools they need to fulfill their greatest potential as community members, global citizens and above all, as human beings. To me, it’s a gift to know I’m part of their story.
180 North San Pedro Road, San Rafael, CA 415.472.1833 • brandeismarin.org
Founded in 1976, Creative Energy has a long history in the Bay Area. We’re proud to say that, since the beginning, our core values have remained the same: offer highquality products, maintain a knowledgeable and dedicated staff, provide excellent customer service and exceed expectations.
Today, Creative Energy offers the best in relaxation, including hot tubs, fireplaces, Endless Pools and fire pits. We serve the entire Bay Area in our three showrooms, located in San Rafael, San Mateo and Pleasanton.
4100 Redwood Highway, #B, San Rafael, CA 415.472.7727 • creativeenergy.com
“I understand you. Your interests are your passions. You are the Dipsea runner looking for one more black shirt, the soccer player with dreams of college athletics, the national team skier with sights set on the 2018 Winter Games- you are my people! Like you, I am of these trails, these fields, this coast. You don’t just want to get better, you want to be better. Lets get there together!”
Dr. Goltz is an orthopedic sports medicine specialist with a practice focus on injuries in athletes and children. His emphasis is on highly personalized care to athletes of all levels.
18 Bon Air Road, Larkspur, CA o: 415.927.5300; c: 415.328.7079 • mttamorthopedics.com
The Marin Senior Coordinating Council, better known as Whistlestop, has a 62-year history ensuring that every adult has the opportunity to age with grace, dignity and independence by pioneering the “Active Aging” Movement in Marin.
Today, Marin seniors are facing similar challenges as the seniors of 60 years ago: hunger, isolation and access to transportation. Whistlestop provides solutions to these challenges with an integrated hub of county-wide, special needs mobility options, including volunteer drivers; nutrition programs like Meals on Wheels; problem-solving referrals and hundreds of daily active aging classes.
Seniors in our community are not a special case. They are people who have invested in our neighborhoods, our retail centers and our schools by living, working and raising their families here.
Now it’s our responsibility to honor and respect those who have been part of the fabric of Marin for decades by both paying them back and paying it forward for others who will need these services someday, maybe even you. Please get involved by visiting whistlestop.org to see how you can support Whistlestop.
930 Tamalpais Avenue, San Rafael, CA 415.456.9062 • whistlestop.org
Healing for People is an energy medicine clinic that helps reduce or eliminate symptoms of pain and disease, including those caused by past experiences. Energy medicine is a newly recognized branch of healthcare that helps people recover from migraines, depression, pain, stress, sleeplessness, menopause, anxiety and similar. It also supports people looking to make changes in their lives from addiction, abuse or stagnation.
Energy medicine is often found to be the missing piece to their healthcare puzzle that people seek. “It’s frustrating
to discover you’ve been trying to use a hammer for a job that requires a screwdriver, but the first step is recognizing that and finding the right tool for the job,” says Dr. Hunter, Clinic Director and Co-founder. “No one should be resigned to a life of pain or unfulfilled potential because they feel they’ve failed or don’t know where to go. Energy medicine offers solutions that are simple, straightforward and usually produce relief in three sessions.”
7 Mount Lassen Drive, Suite B257, San Rafael, CA 415.380.8600 • healingforpeople.com
HomeStreet Bank is a leading home lender with outstanding expertise. We have been making great things happen for our customers for more than 90 years. Whether you’re buying your first home, moving up or refinancing, we have a program for you. Our local decision-making and underwriting help streamline the process. Applying is easy, and many loans are pre-approved at the time of application, subject to final underwriting approval. So take a deep breath — we’ll be right beside you every step of the way.
Founded in 1921, HomeStreet Bank offers mortgage loans products for residential, construction and commercial real estate financing. HomeStreet Bank offers a broad range of
purchase and refinance loan options as well as specialized portfolio lending.
Whether you are looking to buy a home, build a home, or refinance and existing residence, HomeStreet Bank as the perfect loan option to fit your needs. Let one of experienced and knowledgeable loan officer’s work with you to create the financing structure that helps you make homeownership a reality not a dream.
1111A Street, San Rafael, CA 415.489.7703 • homestreet.com
Since 1988, Dr. Robert Aycock and his staff have devoted themselves to helping patients look and feel their best through aesthetic plastic surgery. Dr. Aycock understands that each patient is an individual and treats each with empathy and patience while taking the time to understand specific needs and concerns. Dr. Aycock specializes in breast enhancement; body contouring; facial surgery; mommy makeovers; and with a MedSpa and Laser Center that offers a variety of skin rejuvenation procedures including injectable fillers, medical grade peels, laser treatments, Coolsculpting® and NeoGraft Hair Restoration.
Dr. Aycock and his staff are dedicated to enhancing each patient’s appearance with the finest result. Call or visit Dr. Aycock today.
575 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, Suite 2, Greenbrae, CA 415.925.1700
1855 San Miguel Drive, Suite 4, Walnut Creek, CA 925.937.8377
1700 California Street, Suite 280, San Francisco, CA 415.689.6908 aycockmd.com
Classical ballet training comes in many shapes, sizes and ages here at Marin Ballet. From portraying characters in Marin County’s treasured production of Nutcracker, starting at age 8, to performing Balanchine excerpts as an advanced student, Marin Ballet has been home to students of the art form for over 50 years.
The Marin Ballet family is one of legacy, tradition and mentorship. Our dancers enjoy training in a facility where 4-year olds taking a Creative Movement class can peek in the studio of teenage dancers training en pointe and, in
turn, all are inspired...and touched...by the excitement over another’s very first pair of pointe shoes. We are proud of our commitment to promoting the art of dance through the daily work of training to performance. For a dancer, the thrill of sharing one’s passion for dance with an audience is an unforgettable experience. It is a gift to be shared...we invite you to come see us dance. We love being a part of the cultural community here in Marin County! 100 Elm Street, San Rafael, CA 415.453.6705 • marinballet.org
Office Hours in downtown Mill Valley offers a fresh twist on retail. Partners Heidi Blair and Patricia Rudd, teamed up to create a unique concept that combines the best of old and new. This one of a kind boutique offers a stand out collection of vintage office furnishings for that workspace “wow factor”. But the cool vibe doesn’t stop with a shiny aluminum WWII field desk.
This veritable museum also carries tech and trendy items, fine leather and paper goods, office essentials like quality pens and pencils, as well a great selection of gifts for men and the hip readers, “eyebobs”.
Open only since November, the team has already acquired a second location in San Rafael and will be expanding their collection beyond the office. The new loft space will offer a photo shoot venue, house their collection of rental furniture and bygone era props, as well as hosting pop-up artist and artisan shows, a design talk series and monthly designer gatherings focused on sharing gifts and talents with others who simply love good design.
18 East Blithedale Avenue, Suite 12, Mill Valley, CA 415.388.6800 • office-hours.com
I am a Board Certified Dermatologist and Fellowship Trained Mohs Surgeon specializing in cutting edge techniques and personalized treatments that create healthy, radiant skin. I have extensive training in rejuvenation techniques with lasers and injectables that make a dramatic difference improving the signs of aging. I have focused on the perfection of the minimally invasive “Liquid Lift” for face and neck rejuvenation. I take a holistic approach to patient care to restore my patient’s natural looks and boost their confidence. I believe that people should always look healthy and rested and the health of a patient’s skin is a reflection of the
health of their body. I recommend regular skin checks to monitor for signs of skin cancer. My Mohs Fellowship concentrated on the surgical removal of skin cancer and reconstruction techniques. After two years of research for the National Institute of Health, I am an expert at detecting, treating and managing skin cancer. I founded my private dermatology practice in San Francisco in 2008 and in 2016 opened a new office here in Marin County.
770 Tamalpais Drive, Suite 403, Corte Madera, CA 415.924.2055 • tracyevansmd.com
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“Art is for everyone!” Christensen says. She runs a gallery in Mill Valley and launched a digital art gallery guide last year, called Seek Fine Art. “Seek Fine Art is my way to bring the joy of discovering art to the masses and to turn art lovers into collectors. I’m thrilled to continue growing our platform which already includes 38 countries and over 11,000 gallery and museum listings. Being a gallery guide is just a start. We want to educate and soften the perception people have about art galleries,” Christensen says. A mom of two, Christensen says it was not easy to juggle the roles of mother, artist, gallery owner and now tech
company founder. Yet she’s determined to make Seek Fine Art travelers’ best friend when exploring the world of art around them. The app has already changed her own experience of enjoying art, hopefully it changes yours too.
Seek Fine Art can be found in the iTunes store for your next visit to San Francisco, New York, Seoul and dozens of other cities.
86 Throckmorton Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 415.483.0223 • seekfineart.com
Ruth Livingston, an award-winning designer, has been creating unique eclectic interiors since 1980. Her work combines simplicity of form, references to nature and a passion for handcrafted furniture. Trade showrooms nationwide represent the Ruth Livingston Studio Collection, recipient of eight Design Excellence Awards. The collection is known for Ruth’s collaborative work with Bay Area artists in wood, steel, hand-woven rugs and accessories.
Ruth Livingston’s storefront studio occupies an elegant gallery space on Ark Row in downtown Tiburon, California.
On display are items from the Ruth Livingston Studio Collection, gifts and accessories for the home in glass, ceramics and wood, as well as unique objects handpicked on travels to Asia and Europe. An array of unique jewelry handcrafted by local artists is also featured.
“I’d love to discuss your next project, so we can realize your vision for your home and lifestyle”, Ruth Livingston
74 Main Street, Belvedere Tiburon, CA 415.435.5264 • ruthlivingston.com
Laub Dermatology & Aesthetics located in Mill Valley, has been serving the North Bay for many years. David A. Laub, MD, is a Harvard trained, Board Certified Dermatologist specializing in medical, surgical and aesthetic dermatology.
Dr. Laub’s expertise is based on extensive training, experience, artistry and attention to detail. Asked why he became a dermatologist, his response was simple. “Having skin issues personally, I can understand and relate to my patients.” His compassion is what drives his practice today: “We want everyone who comes to our office to feel comfortable and cared for. I feel fortunate to be a
dermatologist and love what I do”. A recognized leader in his field, he is an expert in pigmentation, rosacea, psoriasis and skin cancer. He utilizes his artistic eye to treat signs of aging and sun damage with aesthetic treatments. Their office provides excellence in dermatological care for all ages. The professional staff of David Laub, MD, Kate Ratto, NP and Christina Chan, RN look forward to assisting you with all of your skin care needs.
591 Redwood Highway, Suite 2210, Mill Valley, CA 415.381.6661 • laubdermatology.com
At Novato Community Hospital’s Bone & Joint Program, we get you back to the active life you love.
Drs. Peter Callander and Dan Solomon lead a team of prominent orthopedic surgeons, sports medicine physicians and physical therapists, who specialize in treating the knee, hip, back, spine, shoulder, hand, arm wrist, foot and ankle—all right here in Marin County. We believe in patient-centered care. Our top-rated team offers more than just a hospital stay. We partner with you through your entire healing process, from start to finish.
Whether it’s physical therapy, a minor procedure or surgery, we help you determine the best treatment. We then use our expertise, the latest technology and minimally invasive techniques to give you quality care. And we monitor your progress through your entire recovery.
Attend a free physician-led seminar to understand what’s causing your pain, treatment options and what to expect from joint replacement surgery. Visit us to learn more.
180 Rowland Way, Novato, CA 415.209.1460 • novatocommunity.org
Sunny Hills Services has dedicated itself to improving the lives of the most vulnerable children and youth in our community since 1895. Given our long history in Marin, many residents have fond memories of family members who volunteered for a Guild or raising funds and awareness for the agency.
Broad community support for the past 121 years has ensured that Sunny Hills remains a beacon of help and hope for thousands of troubled children and youth.
Early intervention and an array of programs and services help these young people learn self-confidence, resilience and other skills to meet life’s challenges.
We are grateful to our Board of Directors, pictured here and to the generations of community members who have walked beside us to help change young lives.
300 Sunny Hills Drive, San Anselmo, CA 415.457.3200 • sunnyhillsservices.org
At Paragon Real Estate Group, we have a simple philosophy – do what’s best for our client. Armed with extensive experience, our agents help guide you through your real estate process by providing the best market research, marketing and transaction resources available.
With any real estate decision, knowledge is power. Paragon has become the premier source of market analytics for the Bay Area real estate market. Our reports are regularly quoted in media including The Wall Street Journal, San Francisco Business Times, San Francisco Chronicle and KQED.
Founded in 2004, we focus on what we know best: San Francisco, Marin and the Bay Area. Like you, we are part of our community. Ranked top 5 in the U.S. for the highest average sales price, we’ve shared our success with donations totaling more than $600,000 from the Paragon Community Fund. Recently, we’ve contributed to the Marin Realtors for the Redwoods, Center for Domestic Peace, Brandeis Hillel Day School, and most recently, the Italian Street Painting of Marin benefitting EveryLife Foundation for Rare Diseases.
300 Drakes Landing Road, Suite 120, Greenbrae, CA 415.805.2900 • paragon-re.com
UCSF’s Department of Neurological Surgery, part of UCSF Weill Institute for Neurosciences, is home to some of the country’s leading physicians. With three UCSF neurosurgeons practicing at Marin General Hospital, Marin residents have direct access to nationally recognized neurosurgical care. In fact, US News & World Report ranked UCSF one of the top four neurosurgery programs in the country—and the best program on the West Coast.
Neurosurgeons Tarun Arora, MD, MSPT, Rishi Wadhwa, MD and Keith Quattrocchi, MD, PhD provide cutting-edge care at both Marin General Hospital and UCSF Medical Center. This unique arrangement allows for outstanding
treatment in collaboration with Marin’s premier medical community, as well as seamless care for patients who may need specialized resources available only at UCSF. A fully staffed neurosurgery clinic in Marin allows patients to be seen quickly and easily while staying close to home.
Specialized treatment is offered for all types of adult neurosurgical disorders, including brain tumors, spinal disorders, brain and spinal trauma, neurovascular disorders and more.
Greenbrae, CA • Ph 415.514.6868, Fx 415.502.5550 ucsfhealth.org/clinics/specialty_care
We are the department of ORTHOPAEDIC SURGERY AT UCSF: a team of orthopedic surgeons, sports medicine physicians and certified athletic trainers, who bring patient-centered orthopaedic care to the North Bay.
At the UCSF MARIN CLINIC in Greenbrae, we provide expert treatment for all aspects of musculoskeletal injuries and rehabilitation. Specialties include pediatric orthopaedics, primary care sports medicine, spine and foot/ankle.
Within the community, our team of UCSF physicians and certified athletic trainers is dedicated to providing
sports medicine care and health education to athletes at Tamalpais High School, Redwood High School and Sir Francis Drake High School. By educating students, coaches and parents with up-to-date medical knowledge, we aim to keep youth performing both on and off the field.
We are continuing UCSF’s pioneering multidisciplinary approach to clinical care, education and outreach. We strive to work with our patients to improve function and quality of life by tailoring plans to individuals’ goals.
1300 South Eliseo Drive, Suite 204, Greenbrae, CA 415.353.2299 • orthosurg.ucsf.edu
The new face of SOFIA JEWELRY... after 22 years Mom and Dad are stepping back and brother and sister, Lucas and Sophie Priolo, are carrying on the family tradition with the same quality, style and professionalism the community has come to expect from Sofia Jewelry. They are an experienced and talented team with a lifetime of exposure to the jewelry world.
Mom and Dad are not letting go of the reins completely. Susan continues her executive oversight and Carl continues to provide exceptional custom design with Lucas by his side. Carl’s creative eye and extensive ties to the Bay Area
jewelry world guarantee you a custom piece of jewelry that won’t disappoint.
Lucas and Sophie bring a youthful look to Sofia Jewelry. They are tuned into the local community and their enthusiasm and dedication to customer service and high standards provide a sure generational transition for the family business into the next era. Stop by and visit!
80 Throckmorton Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 415.388.8776 • sofiajewelry.com
OAHU’S NEXT WAVE of maverick chefs, finding inspiration in a rich culinary heritage and an abundance of surf-to-table seafood and just-picked produce, are turning Honolulu into the next foodie frontier.
The pig, poi and pineapple luau long synonymous with the Hawaiian Islands is certainly fun, but did leave some room for innovation. And 25 years ago that’s just what happened when a band of 12 chefs created Hawaii Regional Cuisine — the beginning of one of the most exciting culinary scenes in the country.
These stellar chefs freely mixed local ingredients with cooking styles from all the immigrant cultures. It was as if they took the flavors and cooking traditions from the Japanese, Chinese, Filipinos, Thai, Vietnamese, Koreans, Portuguese, Polynesians, French and Italians and threw them into a giant pot.
These culinary champions, among them Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi and George Mavrothalassitis, began building relationships with local farmers, fi shermen and aquaculturists, promising they would buy Hawaiian if the farmers produced more variety and promised top quality. The cooks have since gone on to enormously successful careers — books, TV shows and critical acclaim, including prestigious James Beard Foundation awards — and their Oahu restaurants continue to get rave reviews, also providing the training ground for the next generation of chefs.
Yamaguchi and Wong chair the annual Hawaii Food and Wine Festival, where local and international celebrity chefs celebrate the islands’ bounty with signature dishes containing grown-in-Hawaii ingredients. In its sixth year, the festival takes place over three weekends in October on multiple islands and features more than 100 chefs, vintners and distillers from around the world.
Today, new farm-to-fork pioneers are adding twists to an ever-evolving cuisine with more loca l flavors and more traditional Hawaiian foods than ever before. They’ve amped up their commitment to sustainability, to local farmers, fi shers and ranchers and almost-forgotten ingredients. They’re cooking
fare that’s more accessible in presentation and price and giving food lovers yet another reason to visit Honolulu.
Koko Head Cafe , a brunch-all-day eatery, is tucked away in the eclectic Waikiki-adjacent neighborhood of Kaimuki.
WHY POPULAR Hipsters love chef Lee Anne Wong’s take on Hawaiian home cooking. A New Yorker, she trained at the French Culinary Institute; worked in kitchens all over the world; garnered TV cred on the Food Network, the Cooking Channel, Bravo’s Top Chef and its spin-off Top Chef Masters; and wrote a cookbook, Dumplings All Day Wong.
WHAT TO ORDER Kimchi bacon cheddar scones; $5. Dumplings All Day Wong
(dumplings of the day); price varies. Breakfast Bibimbap with bacon, Portuguese sausage, heritage ham, kimchi, soy-mirin shiitake mushrooms, ong choy, sesame carrots, bean sprouts and sunny-side-up egg, served over crispy garlic rice in a hot skillet; $15 INSIDER TIPS Walk-ins only, worth the wait. ✱ 1145c 12th Avenue, 808.732.8920, kokoheadcafe.com
The Pig & The Lady is chef Andrew Le’s talkof-the-town Chinatown restaurant.
WHY POPULAR Born in Honolulu to Vietnamese parents, Le serves updates of his mother’s Vietnamese street food recipes. He attended the Culinary Institute of America in New York, was 2014 James Beard Foundation
Rising Chef of the Year semi fi nalist, and earned his toque as sous chef to chef George Mavrothalassitis of Chef Mavro.
WHAT TO ORDER P&L Pho is brisket roasted for 12 hours, rare beef, smoked bacon, fresh ginger, Tokyo negi, sawtooth herb, pickled chili and black pepper; $14. Pho French Dip is a 12-hour-roasted brisket sandwich, glazed
with barbecue sauce, Thai basil chimichurri, charred bean sprouts, onion and cilantro, meant to be dunked into pho broth; $15.
INSIDER TIP Reservations are a must; go after visiting Pearl Harbor or if you get off our fl ight hungry.
✱ 83 N. King Street, 808.585.8255, thepigandthelady.com
Mud Hen Water in Kaimuki (the name is the Hawaiian translation of “Ka imu ki,” or the “ti root oven”) is run by native son chef Ed Kenney, whose mantra is “loca l fi rst, organic whenever possible, with aloha always.”
WHY POPULAR This casual restaurant and Kenney’s others — Town , Kaimuki Superette , and the newly opened Mahina & Sun’s — are
all lively gathering places. Tune in to his latest venture, Family Ingredients, a new PBS-TV series he hosts that traces the origins of Hawaiian dishes to their roots around the world. Not quite a documentary or a cooking show, it features Hawaii’s communities, diverse cultures and culinary adventures.
WHAT TO ORDER Beet salad with beets, avocado, gorilla ogo and smoked macadamia nuts; $8. I’a Lawalu is a’uku (sword fi sh) buried in coals, served with steamed green banana and seasonal veggies covered in coconut cream; $26.
INSIDER TIP Millennials love the bar scene; the bartenders muddle fresh turmeric, arugula and sage into cocktails.
✱ 3452 Waialae Avenue, 808.737.6000, mudhenwater.com
HAVING A HARD TIME getting into Liholiho Yacht Club, State Bird Provisions or Commonwealth in San Francisco?
Consider an October trip to Oahu for the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival, where chefs from those hot spots will be serving up handheld snacks for all to enjoy. Ravi Kapur of Liholiho Yacht Club offers a locally inspired dish at the Urban Luau on October 26. You’ll sample bites from Jason Fox of Commonwealth and Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski of State Bird Provisions at the Hawaiian Convention Center on October 28. The three-weekend festival also features returning Bay Area chefs Nancy Oakes (Boulevard, S.F.), Charles Phan (Slanted Door, S.F.) and Martin Yan (Yan Can Cook, San Mateo) along with event hosts Roy Yamaguchi and Alan Wong and more than 100 other internationally renowned culinary personalities. Here we speak with three participating chefs. MIMI TOWLE
Learn to surf by world champions. Jump into an outrigger canoe and surf to shore. There are many Waikīkī hotels, but none that captures the heart of the ocean quite like Outrigger Hotels and Resorts.
Find out at Outrigger.com
How often have you been to Hawaii? This will be my fourth time going out there.
Where do you like to stay? I have really enjoyed the north shore of Kauai and on Oahu, I like Ko Olina.
Favorite Hawaiian ingredients? The abalone from the Big Island is amazing, as well as hearts of palm, and the large array of local seaweeds.
Restaurants to try? I am excited to go back to Ethel’s, a hole-in-the-wall restaurant by the Honolulu airport serving great Hawaiian food, and Town, Pig and the Lady, and Mud Hen Water restaurant.
How often have you been to Hawaii? I grew up on Oahu, and much of my family now lives on Maui. I don’t get back to Oahu as often as I would like.
Where do you like to stay? We always stay with aunties and uncles depending on which island. It’s all about hanging on the lanai, eating and talking story.
Favorite Hawaiian ingredients? Kukui nut, apple bananas and taro.
Restaurants to get back to? Ono’s and Helena’s on Oahu. Pipikaula, luau stew and lau lau at Helena’s and kalua pig and everything at Ono’s.
How often have you been to Hawaii? Stuart went to Hawaii every summer as a kid and we have been many times together. We love it so much we were married on the Big Island. This is the first time being there for the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival.
Where do you like to stay? With our friends at Wailea Agricultural Group, on their beautiful heartsof-palm farm on the Big Island.
Favorite Hawaiian ingredients? We like hearts of palm and macadamia nuts.
Restaurants to try? Ma‘Ona Musubi, for the Japanese-style musubi, in downtown Honolulu.
They come in many forms and exist all over the planet; here we bring you three of the best island escapes. Journey to the home of a former Hollywood legend, to a surfers’ paradise and to an expansive estate on a once-private island now open to all (who can afford it).
RIVACY IS NOT something that I’m merely entitled to,” said Marlon Brando; “it’s an absolute prerequisite.” To that end, he bought Tetiaora in 1967 after visiting while fi lming Mutiny on the Bounty in French Polynesia. It was a private island hideaway, far, far from Hollywood.
Today The Brando, which opened in July 2014, continues his vision of privacy in the lushness of an island paradise — away from the public’s prying eyes. It’s a super-luxury resort and the ultimate secluded escape. (Other movie stars have already discovered the island paradise, but no one is saying who.)
The price tag for a stay in Tetiaroa, an atoll of 13 little islets or “motus” 50 miles north of Tahiti, is high. But the rewards are beyond measure — bone-white sandy beaches fringed by coconut palms, a lagoon of crystal-clear water ringed by unspoiled coral. It’s a castaway’s dream, and a lovely one at that.
Part of The Brando’s attraction is its remoteness — it’s not easy getting there, and you can only arrive by helicopter or the twicedaily 20-minute fl ight on an eight-seater from Tahiti. So hidden are the 35 villas that you can only see their thatched roofs when you come in low for a landing.
of the two restaurants, is a great place for breakfast or lunch. Les Mutines (“mutineers,” as in the Bounty crew) is more formal and romantic, especially when candlelight flickers in the cool ocean breeze. At sunset, guests tend to gather at Bob’s Bar for the famous “Dirty Old Bob,” a bourbon-based concoction with just a touch of Tetiaroa honey from hives right there on the island. Most of the resort’s produce is also homegrown.
Marlon Brando originally intended Tetiaroa to be his back-to-nature retreat, and it remained that way for most of the 30 years he went there. The accommodations at first were rudimentary — 12 wooden bungalows, a kitchen, dining hall, bar and sinks made from seashells. Friends and family who didn’t mind the Robinson Crusoe ambience were happy to visit him, but it was never intended to attract a crowd. Enter Richard Bailey, a well-respected Tahitian developer with a sensitivity to the environment. The two developed a plan to turn Tetiaroa into a high-end luxury eco-resort. Unfortunately, Brando, who died in 2004, never lived to see its completion: it opened July 1, 2014, the 10th anniversary of the actor’s death.
ACTIVITIES There’s a fitness center, tennis and water sports, but for many the high point of The Brando experience is the spa, set among coconut palms at the center of a spiderweb of raised walkways. Couples can reserve a three-hour treatment in a wood-latticed cocoon high in the trees. Chef Guy Martin, owner of two-Michelin-star Le Grand Véfour in Paris, provides the exquisite cuisine, with specialties like salt-encrusted scallops and mahi-mahi in ginger. The Beachcomber, the more informal
ROOMS A one-bedroom villa, hidden from its neighbor thanks to the careful planning of architect Pierre-Jean Picart, is “open plan,” with a main living room flanked on one side by a raised bedroom and bathroom plus outdoor bathtub; on the other side, a media room has Wi-Fi and and a foldout bed. The two- and threebedroom villas offer separate bedroom wings and are popular with families, although there are no formal children’s activities at the resort. There is 24/7 room service, and the minibars are stocked with drinks including champagne. Honey macaroon cookies await guests on arrival, with bicycles provided to pedal around the paved paths or to and from the main lodge. Brando conceived of using coconut oil as a source of biofuel, which now supplements power from 2,800 solar panels alongside the airstrip. The actor, often ahead of the technology curve, also thought of using deep-sea water for air-conditioning before that method existed; today a $6 million plant built on the island does just that.
RATES Prices vary by season, from 2,400 euros (approximately $2,700 per night) for a one-bedroom villa during the low season (April–June) and up to 9,000 euros ($10,000 per night) for a three-bedroom during the Christmas holidays. The rates are all-inclusive.
BY JIM CALIOMarlon Brando originally intended Tetiaroa to be his back-to-nature retreat
had the main ingredient, an island paradise surrounded by some of the best ocean conditions on the planet, but were missing one thing: drinkable water. To get water, they built tanks under every bure and structure on the island to collect rain runoff . Twenty years later, the loamy sand now supports a thriving tropical forest with coconut palms and native Fiji flora.
PICTURE A TINY four-acre island surrounded by a national marine reserve, perched on the edge of a barrier reef, six miles offthe coast of Fiji. While one can literally walk around this pebble of paradise in seven minutes, don’t be fooled; there’s plenty to do. Most guests will either be out in the water enjoying one of the many aquatic activities, including five world-class sur fi ng wave breaks or the equally impressive diving and fishing. Lounging is big here too, under an umbrella either by the pool, out on the beach or on a balcony of one of the private bures (villas).
The island holds 24 vacationers at a time, and usually the entire resort is booked by a group. Many of the clients are returnees converging for an annual tropical surf, sail, kiteboard or fishing adventure. Why? The gin-clear water? Aforementioned world-class water sports? Probably, but according to TripAdvisor it’s the people. “The service for such a small place is excellent. Great, very friendly people. It’s like staying at your close friend’s place, only much better equipped and wellsta ffed,” one commenter wrote.
It’s a relatively simple trip: 11-hour flight from SFO to Nadi (pronounced Nandi) on Fiji’s main island of Viti Levu; quickish shuttle in a private van to get breakfast at the Sofitel; then a 25-minute boat ride to the resort. Oh, and once you step offthe boat and into the sand, shoes are optional the rest of the week.
In 1994, Namotu Island was nothing more than a sandbar with one coconut tree. Enter three visionary watermen with a goal to create the ultimate water sports retreat. They
Surfers from all over the globe consider the famous waves of Namotu and its neighboring island Tavarua a mecca. The fi ve breaks (Cloudbreak, Restaurants, Swimming Pools, Namotu Lefts and Wilks) are so admired they are part of the world surfing tour every year. The area is likewise great for windsur fi ng and kiteboarding and features some of the best conditions for both. The South Paci fi c is also a legendary fi shing and diving attraction for guests at the big resorts on the mainland. Namotu guests are welcome to jump on the island’s fi shing boat at sunrise or sunset to help catch the next meal.
EATS Every four to six weeks, a different private chef from somewhere on the planet, usually Australia or the U.S., comes to Namotu to prepare the meals, which include steak, fresh-caught fi sh, chicken, tacos, pizza and fresh sushi and sashimi. There is always a vegetarian option and each meal of the day is accompanied by a healthy salad of Fijian-grown produce.
NOT TO MISS After a day of sur fi ng, windsur fi ng, snorkeling or just skull draggin’ (getting slowly towed behind a boat for a motor-assisted snorkeling tour of the reef), nothing compares to sunset at the Waqa Bar. As the sign says, “Happy Hour 4–7 p.m., Same Price — Extra Happy!”
RATES The island’s infrastructure was built in 1995 but a twoyear renovation has just been completed of half the bures. Eight individual private bures are now available, as well as a threebedroom house with two bathrooms and a family-style dorm bure that sleeps up to six. Rate packages include three meals a day, all water activities including boat rides to the surf breaks and trips on and offthe island. Prices start at $2,400 per person for a week’s stay. namotuislandfi ji.com BY MIKE WALTZE
After a day of surfing, nothing compares to sunset at the Waqa Bar.
SURE, YOU COULD go to the British Virgin Islands and stay at a high-end resort, but wouldn’t you rather rent a secluded, lush estate with its own 68-foot yacht? Recently opened to the public, Valley Trunk is the very private getaway of a wealthy French art-dealing and horse-breeding family on the island of Virgin Gorda — a slice of paradise in an archipelago where the water is so blue it feels insulting to call it aquamarine and the residents are so wealthy it’s been dubbed “Billionaire’s Playground” (Sir Richard Branson and Google’s Larry Page own islands nearby).
The 19-acre estate — which can be rented out whole and sleeps 16 — includes its own white-sand boulder-strewn beach, tennis court, and discreet and attentive sta ff, with a French Michelinstarred chef. O ffering lunch at the estate’s beachfront Bali House and sunset cocktails by the pool, overlooking the Sir Francis Drake Channel, it’s decidedly laid-back and unpretentious in that one-percenter kind of way.
Virgin Gorda itself is also laid-back, far from the hustle of Caribbean tourist centers or cruise line stops, with only one
major luxury resort (Little Dix Bay, currently under renovation) and not a single building taller than a palm tree, as per the official building code. One of the BVIs’ more than 60 islands, Virgin Gorda is accessible only by boat or small airplanes, which take offfrom nearby St. Thomas or Tortola and land on the island’s hillside dirt runway.
HISTORY Reportedly named by Christopher Columbus for resembling a fat woman lying on her side, Virgin Gorda was originally settled in the 17th century by the Dutch and Quakers, who imported slaves for agriculture before realizing the island has very little freshwater. It does, however, have loads of gorgeous beachfront, which caught the eye of Daniel Wildenstein, the now-deceased patriarch of the (sometimes colorful) Wildenstein family, who own Valley Trunk. Wildenstein purchased the property, located in the secluded Valley Trunk Bay, in 1981 and spent the next four years constructing the estate, including importing the Bali House — a teak structure that stands less than 100 feet from the water and doubles as both cabana and open-air dining
room — from Bali, as well as the laborers to build it. Daniel’s grandchildren, Diane and Alec Wildenstein Jr., who rent Valley Trunk out to the public 20–25 weeks a year, now own the estate.
ACTIVITIES Throughout the entire BVIs, it’s all about the water. Guests can take out the yacht Xanadu for a day of snorkeling, kayaking and paddleboarding (all equipment provided) or sign up for private tennis, scuba or poolside yoga lessons. Though the estate has no formal spa, massage, acupuncture and other treatments are available. Offthe estate, there’s minimal sightseeing or shopping, but there’s one trip-worthy tourist stop: The Baths National Park, a stunning beach accessible only via hiking through a series of boulders, ladders and grottoes. Be sure to wear water shoes and bring a bathing suit. When the water is calm, it’s a great place to snorkel and swim.
EATS Restaurant options are limited on Virgin Gorda, but Valley Trunk has its own chef, Bernard Guilhaudin, who’s worked in Japan and Morocco and earned two Michelin stars at the Parisian restaurant Laurent. His international fare might include, for dinner, a lettuce and avocado salad topped with a spring roll, fi let mignon with side of fennel, snap peas and tomatoes, and a basil sorbet for dessert. And for in-between meals, minibars in the suites are stocked with trail mix, sodas, bottled water, wine, beer and — what else? — small bottles of Veuve Clicquot. If you want to venture offthe estate, check out Maya, a beachfront restaurant and cocktail lounge serving a blend of Asian and Latin cuisines, just a short drive from Valley Trunk.
One word of warning: the family decided to preserve the original 1980s decor, so it’s a little like visiting the estate of your very rich Lily Pulitzer–wearing grandmother (especially the bathrooms). But its charms grow on you over time.
The view from Hog Heaven, atop one of Virgin Gorda’s highest peaks, is spectacular. Owned by a guy named Blondie — he’s also the captain of Xanadu — Hog Heaven is a barbecue joint with jaw-dropping views of distant Anegada, as well as the much closer islands Mosquito and Necker (owned by Branson) and Eustatia (owned by Page). If the views don’t take your breath away, Hog Heaven’s signature drink, the Painkiller, will: a concoction of rum, pineapple, coconut and orange juices, topped with fresh grated nutmeg. The name pretty much says it all.
Full estate buyout rates start with a four-guest minimum at $6,000 a night ($1,500 per person per night), plus a nightly $1,200 for each additional person. Rates are all-inclusive, including food and drink, in-house water sports, use of Xanadu and crew, and a full staff and chef. Guests do have to pay fuel costs for the yacht. The estate also offers “Escape Weeks,” when rooms rent individually at $2,500 per night and up. valleytrunk.com BY LAURA HILGERS m
ROOMS
Valley Trunk sleeps 16 in eight very private individual yet roomy suites. Each has its own bay-view terrace, large master bath, walk-in closet and Frette linens and Hermès bath amenities.
Virgin Gorda itself is also laid-back, far from the hustle of Caribbean tourist centers or cruise line stops.
AUG 16 Culture Club Boy George and Culture Club transport you directly to the 1980s with their brand of danceable pop performed by the unique and flambyant front man. The Warfield (SF). 415.345.0900, thewarfieldtheatre.co
Night The Bard’s classic gender-bending comedy celebrates love in all its wonky guises. Dominican University Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marinshakespeare.org
presents a production of Disney’s The Little Mermaid in conjunction with Music Theatre International (MTI). Follow Ariel, a mermaid who yearns for legs and an understanding of the human experience. Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley).
AUG 12–OCT 1 The Speakeasy Experience the old-timey mystery of a 1920s speakeasy with this interactive theater experience. Choose a starting point — cabaret, bar or casino — don your fi nest clothes and enjoy an evening in the Prohibition era. Secret
AUG 17 The Puppet Company presents: Rabbit & Coyote Are Friends Celebrate the season with a bilingual puppet show designed to entertain local families of all backgrounds. Public library (Novato). 415.473.2050
AUG 26–SEP 25
Marin Shakespeare presents the classic tale of deceit, jealousy and love. Former California State Prison inmate Dameion Brown makes his stage debut in the title role. Dominican University Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marin shakespeare.org
AUG 5–7 LV Dance Collective presents Lorena Vey Travel to the foreign planet of Lorena Vey with this incredibly unique dance performance. Dance Mission Theater (SF). 415.826.4441, dancemission.com
AUG 12–14 Bay Area International Deaf Dance Festival Antoine Hunter’s Urban Jazz Dance, in partnership with Dance Mission Theater, presents an annual array of performances and workshops highlighting the important contributions deaf and hard-of-hearing artists make to the community. Dance Mission Theater (SF). 415.826.4441, dancemission.com
AUG 19–21
PERSpectives Dance Company Presents: What’s Your PERSpective This summer showcase offers up the collective works of artistic director Lindsey McLevis and the PDC company members, as well as talented guest companies and choreographers from around the Bay Area. Dance Mission Theater (SF). 415.826.4441, dancemission.com
TUESDAYS Tuesday Night Comedy Funnies
An evening of hilarity. Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, throck mortontheatre.org
THRU AUG 21 Stern Grove Festival
Celebrate Saturdays all summer at San Francisco’s storied Stern Grove Festival. Sigmund Stern Grove (SF). 415.252.6252, sterngrove.org
AUG 1 Jerry Garcia 74th Birthday Celebration: Stu Allen and Mars Hotel Ring in the late Jerry Garcia’s birthday in rock ’n’ roll fashion with Stu Allen and Mars Hotel. Terrapin Crossroads (San
Rafael). 415.524.2773, terrapincrossroads.net
AUG 5–7 Outside Lands
One of San Francisco’s biggest music events is back with three days of unforgettable performances, this year from bands like Radiohead, Lana Del Rey, Duran Duran and Zedd. Golden Gate Park (SF). sfoutsidelands.com
AUG 6 La Misa Negra
This eight-piece Oakland-based group turns any evening into a party. The group’s unique blend of 1950sand ’60s-style cumbia and high-energy, AfroColombian dance music is powered by instrumentals and a vintage Colombian sound.
Enjoy a pre-concert Latin dance class and food from El Huarache Loco. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, marinjcc.org
AUG 6 Natural Wonder
This Stevie Wonder tribute band pays homage to the famed musician with a full band and high energy. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.3850, sweet watermusichall.com
AUG 6 Petaluma Music Festival Jackie Greene, Steve Kimock, David Nelson and the Mother Hips headline. SonomaMarin Fairgrounds (Petaluma). petaluma musicfestival.org
AUG 7 Jazz Sundays
with Nathan Bickart Trio Enjoy original compositions and jazz standards performed by pianist, composer and educator Nathan Bickart and crew. Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley).
415.383.9600, throck mortontheatre.org
AUG 21 Here Comes the Sun ... More Beatles Singers Marin’s allages summer chorus performs some of your favorite tunes from the Beatles, accompanied by a potluck picnic. Community Congregational Church (Tiburon). 415.383.3712, singersmarin.org
AUG 21 Moonalice This psychedelic roots-rock band melds a variety of genres to create an authentic San Francisco ’60s sound. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.3850, sweetwater musichall.com
AUG 26 LaTiDo
Enjoy an evening of salsa music from this Oakland-based Latin band. Part of the Pacheco Plaza summer music series, which also features alfresco dining, dessert and coffee. Pacheco Plaza (Novato). 415.883.4648, pachecoplaza.com
AUG 29 MY2K Tour
Take a trip back to the early aughts with an evening of performances from iconic era acts 98 Degrees, O-Town, Dream and Ryan Cabrera. The War field (SF). 415.345.0900, the war fieldtheatre.com
Art Abloom Studio and Gallery Classes for artists. 751 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com
an arts & crafts store
Art Works Downtown Phases A survey of works by Raylene www.oncearound.com
Gorum, through August 5. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, art worksdowntown.org
Bolinas Gallery
Celebrating the Bolinas Surf Shop, established in 1963, through August 14. 52 Wharf Road, Bolinas. 415.868.0782, bolinas-gallery.com
Bubble Street Featuring genres of fantastic art, imaginary realism, neo-Victorian and steampunk. 565 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.339.0506, bubblestreetgallery.com
Claudia Chapline Gallery and Sculpture Garden Works by Claudia Chapline, Jim Garmhausen, Etta Deikman and others. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach. 415.868.2308, cchapline.com
Desta Gallery The Way of Art. 417 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo. 415.524.8932, destagallery.com
di Rosa Equilibrium: A Paul Kos Survey
Western landscapes from San Francisco–based Paul Kos, through October 2. 5200 Carneros Hwy, Napa. 707.226.5991, dirosaart.org
Falkirk Cultural Center 3D/3Seasons An exhibition of outdoor sculptures presented by Art Contemporary Marin, through September 20. 1408 Mission Ave, San Rafael. 415.485.3328, falkirk culturalcenter.org
Fine Art Etc. Featuring a collection of sculptures and paintings by artists from Northern California and around the world. 686 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.1107, finearttc.com
Gallery Route One The Box Show This popular annual show benefits the gallery and features 150 artists who demonstrate what can be created with a simple wooden box, August
5–September 18. 11101 Hwy One, Point Reyes. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org
Headlands Center for the Arts Summer Project Space Exhibitions Two artists in residence present their work in the Project Space, through August 14. 944 Fort Barry, Sausalito. 415.331.2787, headlands.org
Marin Society of Artists Featured Artists A member-juried show, August 13–27. 1515 3rd St, San Rafael. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyof artists.org
Masterworks Kids’ Art Studio Youth art classes. 305B Montecito Drive, Corte Madera. 415.945.7945, master workskidsart.com
Mine Gallery Original contemporary art. 1820 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Fairfax. 415.755.4472, gallerymine.com
O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Bay Area Women Artists A 2016
exhibition of works by female artists from around the Bay Area, through August 25. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org
Petri’s Fine Arts Featuring contemporary works in various mediums. 690 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.2626, petrisfineart.com
Robert Allen Fine Art Group Exhibition Abstract works on canvas, August 4–September 30. 301 Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.2800, robert allenfineart.co
Early California and contemporary plein air paintings. 222 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898, beckgallery.org
Robert Green Fine Arts
Between Two Worlds Work by Charlotte Bernstrom. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgfineart.com
Roberta English Art by Cheung Lee, Mayumi Oda, Li Huayi, Ju Ming and Toko Shinoda. 1615 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.331.2975, robertaenglish.com
Room Art Gallery
Works by both Bay Area artists and major masters; the largest collection of Picasso, Chagall and others in Marin County. 86 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.380.7940, roomartgallery.com
Seager Gray Gallery
California Works by Kim Ford Kitz, August 16–September 15. 108 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.384.8288, seagergray.com
Smith Andersen North Waking Dream Art by William Binzen, through August 27. 20 Greenfield Ave, San Anselmo. 415.455.9733, smith andersennorth.com
Studio 333 Art and events. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272, studio333.info
Studio 4 Art Work by local artists, classes and workshops with materials included. 1133 Grant Ave, Novato. 415.596.5546, studio4art.net
The Blissful Gallery Oils, watercolors and prints by painter Emmeline Craig. 3415 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach, 415.868.2787, emmelinecraig.com
Zener Schon
Contemporary Art Contemporary works in various mediums by Eric Zener, Paige Smith, JD Wilson and others. 23 Sunnyside Ave, 415.738.8505, zener schongallery.com
SAN FRANCISCO
ArtHaus The Lake Art by John Wood. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com
Caldwell Snyder Gallery
New works. 341 Sutter St, 415.392.2299, caldwellsnyder.com
California Historical Society Native Portraits: Contemporary Tintypes by Ed Drew A series of portraits of members of the Klamath, Modoc and Pit River Paiute tribes, through November 27. 678 Mission Street, SF, 415.357.1848, california historicalsociety.org
Ongoing contemporary art — with a dash of whimsy — in a range of mediums. 1803 Market St, 415.621.2535, fouladiprojects.com
George Lawson Gallery
Four Photographers Works by Tama Hochbaum, Fabiola Mencheli, Susan Mikula, Paul Rickert, through August 27. 315 Potrero Ave, 415.703.4400, georgelawson gallery.com
Gregory Lind Gallery
Group Exhibition, through August 27. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com
Hackett-Mill
Original art. 201 Post St, 415.362.3377, hackettmill.com
John Berggruen Gallery
New works. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com
Meyerovich Gallery
Ongoing work in various mediums from modern and contemporary masters. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com
Pier 24 Photography Art from the Pilara Foundation collection. Pier 24, 415.512.7424, pier24.org
Rena Bransten Projects Works by Lawrence Ferlinghetti, through August 21. 1639 Market St, 415.982.3292, rena branstengallery.com
Thomas Reynolds Gallery Pieces by contemporary painters, most addressing the intersection of realism and abstraction. 2291 Pine St, 415.441.4093, thomasreynolds.com
Bay Area Discovery Museum Imagine, create and transform while exploring the unique museum’s ongoing exhibits (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykidsmuseum.org
Bolinas Museum Human Impact on Bolinas Lagoon: A Timeline, through August 14 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org
Marin Museum of the American Indian The Land of the Ancestors Photographs of ancestral Puebloan sites by Tom Benoit, through August (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com
Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Juried Artists of MarinMOCA Member
Show More than 170 artist member s fi ll both the Main Gallery and the Ron Collins Gallery, through August 28 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.org
BAY AREA Asian Art Museum Extracted: A Trilogy by Ranu Mukherjee Mukherjee draws inspiration from California’s Gold Rush, the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, the ancient text The Classic of Mountain and Seas and the museum’s own collection in this exhibit, commissioned for the museum’s 50th anniversary, through August 14 (SF). 415.581.3711, asianart.org
California Academy of Sciences The past, present and future of our solar system, narrated by George Takei. (SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org
Conservatory of Flowers The Wild Bunch: Succulents, Cacti and Fat Plants The conservatory celebrates the world’s water-hoarding plants in this roughand-tumble exhibit, through October 16 (SF). 415.831.2090, con servatoryofflowers.org
Contemporary Jewish Museum Stanley Kubrick: The Exhibition A comprehensive look at the full breadth of the work of the legendar y fi lmmaker, with production photography, set models, costumes, props and more, through October 30 (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org
de Young Ed Ruscha and the Great American West Works that reveal the artist’s engagement with the American West and its starring role in our national mythology, through October 9 (SF). 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org
Exploratorium Ongoing interactive exhibits exploring science, art and human perception (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu
Legion of Honor California BookWorks Modern and contemporary artists’ books and portfolios allow viewers to see the state from the vantage point of creators, through October 16 (SF). 415.750.3600, legionof honor.famsf.org
Museum of Craft and Design Lines That Tie Works by Carole Beadle and Lia Cook, through August 7 (SF). 415.773.0303, sfmcd.org
Oakland Museum of California Altered State: Marijuana in California The fi rst-ever museum exhibition to focus on marijuana in California today, through September 25 (Oakland). 510.318.8400, museumca.org
Sonoma Valley Museum of Art Surf Craft: The Design and Culture of Board Riding Examine the evolution of surfboard design, featuring American makers and shapers of all kinds of wave-riding boards, through September 25 (Sonoma). svma.org
The Walt Disney Family Museum Mel Shaw: An Animator on Horseback The fi rst-ever retrospective of the life and work of Disney animator, creative and master horseman Mel Shaw, through September 12 (SF). 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts Murmur Wall Designed by Future Cities Lab, the Murmur Wall is a combination of sculpture, light and data collection along the wall at the main entrance to YBCA, through 2016 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org
THRU AUG 31 Wild Flowers Head to the San Francisco Botanical Garden to observe a wide and varied selection of seasonal blooms, from dogwood to blue puya. S.F. Botanical Garden (SF). 415.661.1316, sf botanicalgarden.org
AUG 5–7 American Craft Show The American Craft Council’s weekend event is specially curated for craft collectors and design enthusiasts alike. See handcrafted jewelry, furniture, apparel and home decor created by more than 220 artists from across the country. Also, get interactive with the Style Slam. Fort Mason Center (SF). 612.206.3100, craftcouncil.org
AUG 6 Novato Space Festival Five legendary astronauts from the Apollo moon missions and space shuttle program head to Novato for this unique and educational festival, which also features exhibits from NASA and the Space Station Museum. The Space Station Museum (Novato). 415.524.3940, thespacestationca.org
AUG 7 The Leukemia SUP Cup Participate or watch as stand-up paddleboarders race in a fundraiser for
Dick Bright’s canine-centric release.
AUGUST 31 MARKS NATIONAL Dog Day, and this year there’s a sound track to match the festivities. Canine Classics, Volume 1 features Dottie, an American bulldog, on the cover and celebrates all things dog inside. The man behind the music is none other than longtime Greenbrae resident Dick Bright, who has played with the likes of Huey Lewis, Bonnie Raitt, Carlos Santana and more. After successfully presenting some dog-themed lyrics while playing San Francisco SPCA’s Bark and Whine Ball, Bright and his production partner decided to put out an official record. The CD’s song titles include “SPCA” (a take on “YMCA”), “Walk Like a Dalmatian” (riffing on “Walk Like an Egyptian”) and “Turning Pekingese” (echoing “Turning Japanese”). caninicaproductions.com KASIA PAWLOWSKA
blood cancers research. Corinthian Yacht Club (Tiburon). 415.625.1139, llsupcup.org
AUG 7 Opera Guild
Champagne Gala Enjoy champagne, hors d’oeuvres and performances by upand-coming opera stars at this benefit for opera education programs in the Marin schools and the public lectures previewing the 2016–2017 season. San Domenico Music Conservatory (San Anselmo). 415.924.9352, sfopera.com
AUG 13 Summer Carnival Help close out the Novato Public Library’s summer learning program with a carnival-style celebration. Games, face painting and a circus
show. Public library (Novato). 415.473.2050
AUG 13 Glide’s Legacy Gala Glide’s annual gala this year celebrates half a century of love, leadership and community with music, food and drink, and honors for three individuals who are important local agents of change. Regency Ballroom (SF). 415.674.6060, glide.org
AUG 13–14 Gravenstein Apple Fair Enjoy live music, arts and crafts, activities, local food and wine and — of course — Sebastopol’s famous heirloom Gravenstein apples, which will be celebrated in many forms. Ragle Ranch Park (Sebastopol). 707.837.8896, graven steinapplefair.com
AUG 14 The French Market This outdoor antique market features art, books, textiles, vintage and estate jewelry, furniture, prints and much more, along with French music and crepes. Marin Civic Center (San Rafael). 415.383.2252, golden gateshows.com
AUG 18–22 Ringling Brothers and Barnum and Bailey: Out of This World The traditional circus experience is heightened by spaceage themes as the Circus Space Fleet takes audiences on an imaginative futuristic journey. Oracle Arena (Oakland). ringling.com
AUG 25–28 Eat Drink SF Eat, drink and be merry at San Francisco’s premier
food, wine and spirits festival. Four days of events highlight the city’s unique and vibrant culinary cuisine. Various locations (SF). eatdrink-sf.com
AUG 3–20 Teatro alla Scala: The Temple of Wonders Journey through time and space to Milan’s Teatro alla Scala, which has long been a home to the greatest artists in music, opera and ballet. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net
AUG 4–6 Romeo and Juliet Kenneth Branagh reunites the stars of his fi lm Cinderella — Richard Madden and Lily James
— onstage in this classic Shakespearean play about forbidden love. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net
ONGOING First Tuesday ArtWalk Join the Mill Valley Arts Commission’s monthly stroll through town to view exhibits by local artists. Various locations (Mill Valley). cityofmillvalley.org
ONGOING Free First Wednesdays Visit the Bay Area Discovery Museum the fi rst Wednesday each month for an outing full of exploration and fun. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito).
415.339.3900, bay kidsmuseum.org
ONGOING Sunday Hikes on Mount Tam Cap off our weekend with a three- to fivemile group hike up Mount Tamalpais, led by a Friends of Mount Tam volunteer. Various locations (Mill Valley). 415.258.2410, friendsofmttam.org
AUG 1 Hungry Owl Project The whole family can learn about local owls from an expert, with a live owl on hand. Inverness Library (Inverness). 415.669.1288
AUG 5 Kent Island Restoration To help restore the unique ecosystem of Kent Island in Bolinas Lagoon, remove invasive species and
learn other protective measures. Public dock (Bolinas). 415.473.3778, marincountyparks.org
AUG 6 Aramburu Island Enhancement
Join Richardson Bay Audubon Center in its effort to covert this island from a forgotten, eroding area to a thriving habitat for shorebirds and wildlife. Richardson Bay Audubon Center (Tiburon). 415.763.2977, richard sonbay.audubon.org
AUG 7 Art in the Park
At McNears Beach Park, a day of observing the scenery and painting and drawing what you see. All skill levels are welcome; snacks are provided. McNears Beach Park (San
Rafael). 415.446.4424, marincountyparks.org
AUG 7 Redwoods, Climate Change and Citizen Science
Join Marin County Parks and Save the Redwoods League to learn about the coast redwood. Discuss the potential effects of climate change and work together to document the wealth of biodiversity within this ecosystem. Roy’s Redwood Preserve (San Geronimo). 415.893.9508, marin countyparks.org
AUG 8–11 Angel Island Summer Photo Excursion for Kids
This four-day intermediate-level summer photography workshop for kids ages 11–14 includes a day trip to
Angel Island and postprocessing sessions. The Image Flow (Mill Valley). 415.388.3569, theimageflo.com
AUG 13 Astronomy Viewing Night: Perseids Meter Shower An evening under the stars: study the night sky through a telescope and witness the Perseids meter shower, which will be at its height. Mount Burdell Preserve (Novato). 415.473.2816, marincountyparks.org
AUG 17 Olompali in the 1960s: The Grateful Dead, the Chosen Family and More Breck Parkman, senior state archaeologist for California State Parks, discusses the Olompali site, home to the Grateful Dead in 1966 and later home of the
Chosen Family commune. Public library (Novato). 415.473.2050
AUG 20 Family Hike at Roy’s Redwoods Bring the entire family for a hike amid picturesque bay trees interspersed with towering redwoods. Roy’s Redwoods (Woodacre). 415.456.7283, wildcarebayarea.org
AUG 27 Nature Walk at King Mountain Explore the King Mountain trail loop with a ranger and learn about the area’s unique natural resources on this moderate hike. King Mountain Preserve (Kent field). 415.473.2816, marin countyparks.org
AUG 27 Tour de Fox 2016 Series Cyclists can opt for a 73-mile, 51-mile, 31.5-mile or 10-mile ride in support of Parkinson’s Disease research. Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate and Gardens (Santa Rosa). tourdefox. michaeljfox.org
AUG
A day of volunteer trail work designed to keep Ring Mountain thriving. Protect the endangered Tiburon mariposa lily by fi nding and removing invasive tocolote and yellow star thistles, and fi nish the day with storytelling for the kids. Ring Mountain (Tiburon). 415.473.3778, marin countyparks.org
AUG 28 Lake Fishing for Kids Practice sinking lines with a ranger, no experience necessary. Bait and fi shing poles are provided by the Department of Fish and Wildlife; a fi shing license is required for ages 16 and over. Sta fford Lake Park (Novato). 415.897.0618, marincountyparks.org
AUG 31 The Bay Trail and the New Hamilton Wetlands Walk along the newly restored wetlands of the Hamilton Air field; restoration began in 2014 when water from San Pablo Bay was sent through a levee to flood a square mile of land. Hamilton Wetlands Preserve (Novato). 415.893.9508
The Tiburon Peninsula Foundation will soon bring yesterday into today—and you can be a part of it. Trestle Trail, overlooking Blackie’s Pasture, will stretch over 600-feet and feature 40-feet of historic track. There will be 60 “Donor Ties,” each with a bronze plaque reflecting the donor’s thoughts, memorial or favorite quote. Also available are “Donor Spikes,” an integral part of the historic rail exhibit. This is your chance to a part of the history of the Tiburon Peninsula. In the above photo, circled in white are the only remaining timbers of the 130-year-old trestle.
Donor Ties with bronze plaques: $2,000 donation
Donor Spikes: $900 Gold, $600 Silver, $300 Bronze, $150 Original
Trestle Trail • Walk Your Railroad History • 415.435.1853 • trestletrail.org
The “Big Four Plus One” committee: railroad historian Phil Cassou, architect David Holscher, businessman Tom O’Neill, community leader Peyton Stein and Marin Magazine co-founder Jim Wood.
• DABBA Indian Inspired by the Indian-Mexican restaurant Avatar’s in Mill Valley, this latest twist on the concept comes from tech entrepreneur Andy Mercy and former French Laundry and Spruce chef, Walter Abrams. Applying Abrams’ precision, palate and creativity to global culinary traditions, Dabba offers worldly flavors “wrapped in a California state of mind.” 71 Stevenson St, 415.236.3984, dabba.com b $$ ∞ LD
BOCA PIZZERIA Italian
This Italian-inspired pizzeria utilizes Northern California’s bounty of seasonal ingredients and showcases local microbreweries and wine country’s boutique varietals. The menu includes large selections of appetizers to share, organic salads when available, pastas, local free-range poultry and meats, desserts and Neapolitan-style pizzas with house-made mozzarella. 1544 Redwood Hwy, 415.924.3021, bocapizzeria.com s $$ s ∞ C LD º
BRICK & BOTTLE
California Seasonal selections made with local ingredients are the specialty here, with service also available for private parties and catered events. Enjoy signature dishes like orzo mac ’n’ cheese with smoked Gouda and petrale sole and tomato-braised short ribs. The restaurant has been voted “Best Happy Hour,” by Marin Magazine readers. 55 Tamal Vista Blvd, 415.924.3366, brickandbottle.com s $$$ s ∞ C D º
This upscale Italian restaurant franchise’s menu offers, aside from the pizzas and pastas, a variety of salads and carb-free entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com s $$ s ∞ C LD BR
This Marin mainstay has been around for over 50 years. Choose from a menu of soups, salads, seafood, mesquite-grilled or sautéed meats and a plethora of pasta options. For a fun addition to your dining experience, order the Caesar salad — the server will prepare the dressing at your table. Not looking for a meal? Enjoy a drink and hear local musicians at the well-known piano bar. 1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marin joesrestaurant.com s $$ s C LD
American Fresh local ingredients and the highest-quality brisket, pork, ribs and chicken comprise the menu of this Town Center eatery. Sauces are crafted to represent the best American barbecue regions, from Memphis to South Carolina.
House-made pickles,
buns and sausages will keep you coming back.
341 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.891.3265, pig inapicklebbq.com b $$$ s ∞ BLD
123 BOLINAS California
Created by four friends wanting to showcase seasonal fare in a relaxing, intimate environment, this cozy, one-room eatery offers locally brewed beer, small-production wines and seasonal food along with the view of Bolinas Park through the floorto-ceiling windows. 123 Bolinas St, 415.488.5123, 123bolinas.com b $$ s ∞ D º
If you’re looking for a quick, fresh meal, Grilly’s is an easy and delicious stop. Pick up a couple burritos and the much-loved chicken taco salad and you have a lunch or dinner to please the whole family. 1 Bolinas Ave, 415.457.6171, grillys.com $ s ∞ C BLD
Italian Run by sisters Sonia and Soyara, Sorella, which means “sister” in Italian, serves fresh Italian food with a northern in fluence. Customer favorites include the cioppino, butternut squash ravioli and Pollo alla Sorella. Another highlight is the giant wheel of Grana Padana cheese. And if that isn’t enough, stop by for live music every second and fourth Thursday of the month, as well as accordion music every Friday and a piano, bass and drums combo every Saturday. 107 Bolinas Rd, 415.258.4520, sorellacaffe.co b $$$ s D
Italian Antonio Volpicelli, of Don Antonio in Tiburon, has taken over the old Fabrizio space and it with more traditional Italian cuisine. The menu offers an assortment of classic dishes like orgonzola gnocchi, veal parmesan, carbon ara and an extensive wine list. Guests are welcome to enjoy any one of these items on the spacious outdoor patio. 455 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.3332, amalfi ristorantelarkspur.com b $$ ∞ LD
Mexican The menu has gained quite a following for the authentic Mexico City dishes. From mini huaraches (fi lled corn masa cakes) to the foot-long huarache with two salsas, crema, queso fresco and two toppings of your choice, you’re sure to get a true taste of a homemade Mexican meal. Marin Country Mart, 1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.1403, huaracheloco.com b $ s ∞ BLD
FARM HOUSE LOCAL California This downtown Larkspur gem is sure to please with simple, healthy food in a warm, cozy atmosphere — both inside and outside on the covered patio. The seasonal menu follows what is fresh and local with dishes such a s flu ff y omelets stu ffed with local meats, cheeses and vegetables. 25 Ward St, 415.891.8577, farm houselocal.com b $$ s ∞ BL
MARIN BREWING CO.
American Grab a cold beer made on site and pair it wit h fi sh ’n’ chips — in this case fresh cod dipped in Mt. Tam pale ale batter, served with steak fries and homemade tartar sauce. Marin Country Mart, 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com b $$ s ∞ LD º
PERRY’S American
The San Francisco mainstay has opened another new location, this time across the bridge in Larkspur, bringing with it its wide selection of salads, steaks and comfort favorites like French onion soup. Replacing the Lark Creek Inn, the skylights bring in plenty of natural light and an expanded bar is ideal for sipping the restaurant’s famed bloody mary’s. Valet parking is offered and brunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.1877, perryssf.com s $$ LD º
PICCO California
Popular since its inception, Picco has a seasonally driven menu featuring items such as risotto (made every half hour) that keep patrons coming back. Pizzeria Picco next door is famous for its wood-fi red pizzas, wine selection and softserve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com s $$$ s ∞ C D
RUSTIC BAKERY California This homegrown bakery is known and loved the world over. In fact, Pope Francis famously requested Rustic Baker y fl atbread and crostini when he visited the United States in 2015. Bread that’s baked fresh each morning in addition to granola, cookies, mu ffi ns and croissants make this a local staple. 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556; 2017 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.9900; rusticbakery.com b $$ s ∞ BLD BR
BALBOA CAFE MILL VALLEY California The San Francisco institution has become a place to see and be seen in Mill Valley, especially after 142 Throckmorton comedy nights. Menu includes Niman fl atiron steak, braised beef brisket risotto and classic burgers. 38 Miller Ave, 415.381.7321, balboacafe.com s $$$ ∞ LD BR º
BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and Chili-Lime “Brick” Chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfort-food menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s. The warm, dark-wood bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com s $$ C LD BR
CAFE DEL SOUL California Healthy options become
addicting ones at this Tam Valley eatery. Once you stop in for the deliciously fresh Hummus Yummus wrap, you’ll have to return to sample the Chipotle Sunrise Rice Bowl. A casual lunch spot and great for takeout, Cafe del Soul now offers a range of quinoa options. 247 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.1852, cafedelsoul.net $ s ∞ LD
EL PASEO American
This award-wining eatery in the heart of downtown Mill Valley has been voted most romantic restaurant in Northern California. Built from Mount Tam railroad ties and brick in 1947, El Paseo was restored by owner Sammy Hagar in 2009. The menu offers California and European fare and an extensive wine list. 17 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0741, elpaseomillvalley.com b $$$ ∞ C D
HARMONY Chinese
Enjoy a lighter take on Chinese at this
restaurant, nestled in the Strawberry Village. The barbecue pork bun is fi lled with housemade roasted meat in a savory sauce, and fresh mussels are accented with red chili and Thai basil. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea. Be sure to check out the weekday lunch special for an excellent deal. Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmony restaurantgroup.com b $$ s LD
INDIA PALACE Indian Known as “that great restaurant in the Travelodge,” India Palace is a favorite with the takeout crowd; eating on site is also a treat. 707 Redwood Hwy, 415.388.3350, india palacemillvalley.com b $$ s LD
LA GINESTRA Italian A favorite family spot for over 30 years; getting a table or booth here can take awhile. While this old-school Italian eatery is known for traditional pastas, veal dishes, pizzas and dry martinis, the familiar wait staff s also part of the attraction. 127 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0224, laginestramv.com s $$ s D
PIATTI RISTORANTE AND BAR Italian The staff rides itself on capturing the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria. Get a table by the window or on the outdoor deck for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Peruse the impressive selection of Italian wines to accompany your rustic seasonal meal. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com s $$ s ∞ C LD BR
MOLINA California Focusing on woodfi red, California coastal cuisine, the menu features items cooked in the famed Alan Scott oven and selected from Marin County’s farmers’ markets, including shell fi sh, oysters, rabbit, pig, quail and cattle. Both the menu and the music change nightly. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, molinarestaurant.com b $$$ ∞ D BR
PIZZA ANTICA
Italian This Italianinspired restaurant in Strawberry Village offers much more than impeccably prepared thin-crust pizzas. The seasonal dishes are created with local ingredients and include chopped salads, housemade pastas, and meat, fi sh and fowl entrees, such as the Tuscan fried chicken and roasted pork chop. 800 Redwood Hwy, 415.383.0600, pizzaantica.com b $$ s LD BR º
PRABH INDIAN
KITCHEN Indian Owned and operated by the Singh family, this restaurant is dedicated to serving healthy, organic and sustainable food, including gluten-free and vegan options. Dishes include chicken pakora, vegetable biryani and basil garlic nan. Try the thali menu (offered at lunch), a selection of several Indian dishes served at once. 24 Sunnyside Ave, 415.384.824, prabhindiankitchen.com b $$ s ∞ LD
ROBATA GRILL AND SUSHI Japanese Robata translates as “by the fi reside”; fittingly, food here can be cooked on an open fi re and served in appetizer-size
portions to pass around the table. Or simply order your own sushi or entree from the menu.
591 Redwood Hwy, 415.381.8400, robatagrill.com b $$ s LD
SHOP American Tucked away in a parking lot at Tam Junction, this coffee shop is a funky diner with a smalltown feel. Check out the mix of Mexican and traditional breakfast fare. 221 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.9085 b $$ s ∞ BL BR
This Marin favorite has opened in Mill Valley, still serving up everyone’s favorite Puerto Rican cuisine. The line can get long, but the food is well worth it. 401 Miller Ave, 415.380.1986, solfoodrestaurant.com $$ s ∞ BLD
TAMALPIE Italian
Owner Karen Goldberg designed this restaurant with a large group seating area, indoor and outdoor fi replaces, and a small casual bar. The food is Italian home cooking with the daily modern inspiration of locally sourced seasonal ingredients found in the salads, house-made pastas and crispy Neapolitan style pizza, with a selection of beer and wine to match. 477 Miller Ave, 415.388.7437, tamalpiepizza.com s $$ s ∞ C LD
THEP LELA Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch.
615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444, theplela.com s $$ s ∞ LD
With a selection of juices, snacks and bowls including plenty of gluten-free, grain-free, and low-glycemic-index options, this is a popular stop. Raw desserts round things out. Try the namesake salad or give the cashew milk with cinnamon and vanilla a shot to see what Urban Remedy is all about. 15 E Blithedale Ave, 415.383.5300, urbanremedy.com $$ ∞ BLD
VASCO Italian Whether you’re at a table, the bar or the back counter, you can expect an intimate and tasty dining experience in this one-room trattoria. Try one of the pasta dishes or thincrust wood-fi red pizzas. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343, vasco millvalley.com s $$ s D
BOCA PIZZERIA Italian
Enjoy authentic pizza prepared with fresh mozzarella made in-house daily and tomatoes imported from Italy. Other menu items include grilled rosemary chicken sandwiches and braised beef short rib pappardelle. Enjoy weekly specials, such as 50 percent off all wines by the bottle on Wednesdays and half off raft beers on Thursdays. 454 Ignacio Blvd, 415.883.2302, bocapizzeria.com b $$ s ∞ C LD
HILLTOP 1892 California In a historic country estate in Novato with sweeping views, enjoy classic favorites with
With Marin At Home editor-in-chief Zahid Sardar embark on an unforgettable cultural adventure by plane, boat, and private coach, that will unfold in January, against India’s exciting backdrop. Travel from Delhi to Mughal Agra and the Taj Mahal to princely Rajasthan, see 2nd Century Ajanta/Ellora Buddhist caves, visit colorful Kochi, languid Kerala backwaters and exhilarating Mumbai. We’ll stay in luxurious 5-star comfort in palace hotels yet go off the beaten track. Limited to 14. So, book now.
For details contact ZSATours@gmail.com
SERVES 1–2 PEOPLE
Ingredients
3 tablespoons fresh garlic, minced
6 tablespoons fresh peeled ginger, minced ¾ cup rice vinegar
4 teaspoons Red Boat fish sauce (or other quality brand)
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons fresh black pepper
1 cup gently packed chopped cilantro or parsley
1 ½ cups gently packed chopped mint
1 cup gently packed thin-sliced scallions (equal amounts white and green)
1 cup rice oil
¼ cup water
2 limes
1 salmon tail, cut about 3 inches up into the meat
Ligurian olive oil (to coat)
Maldon sea salt (to taste)
Seasonal farmers’ market vegetables (baby Nantes carrots, French breakfast radishes, pickled ramps, baby turnips with tops)
1 lemon, sliced
For chimichurri 1 Add garlic and ginger to the vinegar, fish sauce, salt and pepper; let macerate for one hour. 2 Add cilantro or parsley, mint, scallions, rice oil, water and zest of two limes.
3 Stir well and adjust seasoning if necessary.
HAT’S GREAT ABOUT being part of the Scoma’s family is having a soapbox to talk about responsibility,” says chef Gordon Drysdale. Drysdale, of Gordon’s House of Fine Eats and Bacchus Management Group fame, has been Scoma’s culinary director for nearly two years; the responsibility he’s referring to is environmental. Since the beginning of his tenure he’s been committed to serving seafood that follows the guidelines of the Seafood Watch Program, helping the iconic Bridgeway restaurant stay relevant in the process. “The Scoma’s boat is approved for salmon and Dungeness crab and fi shes seasonally, going out from Pier 47,” Drysdale says. “Millennials are concerned about where their food comes from,” but so are others, he adds, noting that diners today are more knowledgeable in general. Scoma’s is famous for being a longtime family-run business: In 1969, partners Al and Joe Scoma and Victor and Roland Gotti purchased the site that became Scoma’s Sausalito, and the collaboration between the families continues to this day, with second- and third-generation members running the show. This recipe for fresh salmon tail and chimichurri is an example of the revamped fare under Drysdale’s leadership. scomassausalito.com KASIA PAWLOWSKA
4 Cover tightly and place in the refrigerator. For salmon tail 1 Take salmon tail, rub lightly with olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt, and reserve refrigerated until one hour before serving. 2 Prep vegetables: wash everything thoroughly and carefully, and dry as much as possible; the vegetables could be the ones pictured or any mix of fresh, pickled, sautéed or steamed vegetables that go well with salmon. 3 Just before serving time, light a fire in the grill; let fire burn down to a medium-hot level so salmon skin doesn’t burn or stick. 4 Clean grates thoroughly, then oil them well. 5 Add the salmon tail and cook about 5–7 minutes first side. 6 Flip and cook about 4–5 minutes on second side. 7 Let tail rest for 5 minutes, then plate it surrounded by lemons, vegetables, chimichurri and olive oil and serve.
a California fl air.
There’s a private banquet room for special events. 850 Lamont Ave, 415.893.1892, hilltop1892.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º
RESTAURANT
American Voted “Best Breakfast in Novato,” this spot is known for serving up generous portions of Americanstyle breakfast and lunch fare at a great value. The corned beef hash, benedicts and superb service attract a consistent crowd all year round. 1112 Grant Ave, 415.892.4482 $ s ∞
California Organic pastries, breads, salads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including daily seasonal specials. Try the Marin Melt — Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam and Point Reyes
Toma cheeses grilled on honey whole wheat, served with dressed baby greens and crisp apple slices. 1407 Grant Ave, 415.878.4952, rusticbakery.com b $$ s ∞ BLD BR
American There’s nothing like the comfort of a solid burger and beer when you’re kicking back and watching the game, and the Speakeasy provides you with just that. In addition to the 10 beers on tap, you can go beyond traditional pub grub with treats like a deconstructed salmon salad. 504 Alameda del Prado, 415.883.7793, thespeakeasynovato.com b º
American Established
in 1986, Comforts has a cozy sit-down patio and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch.
A large take-out section offers fresh bakery items, seasonal salads, soups, sandwiches and even entrees for dinner at home. Besides the famous and popular Chinese chicken salad, other winners are the stu ffed pecan-crusted French toast , fl avorful scrambles, Chicken Okasan ( nicknamed “Crack Chicken” by fans) and wonton soup.
335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com b $$ s ∞ BL BR
L’APPART RESTO
French French specialties, local favorites and a $35 three- course prix fi xe menu are served up in an energetic yet sophisticated environment. Check out the live music on Thursdays.
636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.256.9884, lappartresto.com b $$ s ∞ LD BR
M.H. BREAD AND BUTTER California This one-stop shop offers everything from coffee and pastries to artisan bread and braised meats. High-quality ingredients and a comfortable atmosphere make MH worth checking out. 101 San Anselmo Ave, 415.755.4575, mhbreadandbutter.com $$ s ∞ BL BR
VALENTI & CO. Italian
This bright and cozy space is the ideal environment for authentic Italian dishes made with local ingredients. A seat at the chef’s table gives a prime view of the open kitchen.
337 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.7800, valentico.com b $$$ D
GREEN CHILE KITCHEN
Mexican Don’t let the name fool you; while green chilies are present on the menu, many other varieties are also featured. From the organic, house made, blue corn tortillas to the red chile chicken wings, this restaurant located in downtown San Rafael offers a cornucopia of hues and fl avors. 1335 Fourth St, 415.521.5691, greenchilekitchen.com b $$ s LD
The remodeled Flatiron is where refi ned American bar food lives happily in its ideal environment – among a bevy of craft beers. Owned by the Strickers, a husband and wife duo, this polished sports bar offers food like chili lime cauli flower, classic sandwiches, as well as tru ffle and wa ffle fries in a space that also features classic arcade games. 724 B St, 415.453.4318, flatironsanrafael.com s $$ LD º
The large selection of innovative and classic Tuscan dishes and house-made pasta has kept locals coming back for years. Ingredients are organic and locally sourced where possible, and there’s a vast selection of both Italian and California wines by the glass. Don’t leave without trying the limoncello. 901 A St, 415.454.8080, ildavide.net s $$$ s ∞ C LD
With floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the grand Peacock Gap lawns, the Range Cafe is the perfect place for
comforting American classics with an elegant twist. This inviting lunchtime cafe with its ice-cold lemonade and refreshing chardonnays makes a great dinner spot once the sun sets. 333 Biscayne Dr, 415.454.6450, rangecafe.net s $$ s ∞ C BLD º
VIN ANTICO American Vin Antico, “where passion meets the plate,” serves seasonal marketinspired cuisine like stone-oven-baked fl atbreads, handmade pastas and organic salads, all innovatively prepared. The kitchen is open to the dining room and there’s a full bar with artisan cocktails. 881 Fourth St, 415.721.0600, vinantico.com s $$ s C LD º
BAR BOCCE American Food just tastes better on a bayside patio with fi re pits and a bocce ball court. Order one of the sourdough bread pizzas and a glass of wine and you’ll see why this casual eatery, overseen by Robert Price of Buckeye and Bungalow 44, has become a local favorite. 1250 Bridgeway, 415.331.0555, barbocce.com s $$ s ∞ LD
BARREL HOUSE TAVERN California
Stop by Barrel House for great local food enhanced by fantastic bay and city views. The relaxed urban setting is a perfect match for the barrel-aged cocktails. 660 Bridgeway, 415.729.9593, barrelhousetavern.com s $$$ s ∞ LD º
Opening of Hawai‘i Island Coast to Coast Birding Trail
Guest speakers including Dr. Sam Gon III (The Nature Conservancy of Hawai‘i)
Guided field trips on land and sea
Trade show for outdoor and birding equipment
Bird-themed arts and crafts fair
Photography and painting workshops
For more information and registration: hawaiibirdingtrails.com FOLLOW
Italian Tomatina takes a modern approach to traditional Italian recipes. Offering housemade pasta, pizzas and signature piadine: fresh, hot flatbreads topped with cool salads, ready to fold and eat. 5800 Northgate Mall, 415.479.3200, tomatina.com s $$ s ∞ LD º
enough to share before enjoying some of the best sushi the Bay Area has to offer; the prices don’t deter the herd of enthusiasts who line up nightly to partake. Just stopping by? The wine, cocktail and sake lists keep even the pickiest bar fly satisfied. Reservations are required in the main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com s $$ ∞ LD
SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE
American Sam’s deck is a popular spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole, but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Sample a seasonal menu served all day, every day. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º
American Stationed in the New Bait Shop Market, Davey Jones Deli offers houseroasted sandwich meats, healthy condiments and local, organic vegetables; the deli serves sandwiches, veggie-wiches, wraps and salads with vegetarian, vegan and meat-lover options. Because the sandwiches are so generous, this easy stop is great during a day of boating, biking, hiking, and general adventuring around Marin. Gate 6 Rd, 415.331.2282, daveyjonesdeli.com b $$ s ∞ L
FRANCAIS French
Owned and operated by the owners of Le Garage, F3 serves brunch, lunch and dinner featuring “Frenchi fied” American
comfort food. A rotating menu includes items like the Luxe burger (Diestel turkey, brie, lettuce and a fried egg topped with tru ffle aioli). Enjoy with a side of Brussels sprout chips or pommes dauphines (tater tots). 39 Caledonia St, 415.887.9047, eatf3.com s $$ s ∞ LD BR
KITTI’S PLACE Thai/ California This homestyle family restaurant has been in Sausalito 20 years and features favorites like lettuce cups, soft spring rolls and weekly specials. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.331.0390, kittisplace.com b $$ s ∞ LD
LE GARAGE French Escape the tourist crush for an indulgent Sausalito brunch right on the water. The
atmosphere is animated with light French music (à la Amélie), and the much-adored croquemonsieur is under $10. Indoor or outdoor seating. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistro sausalito.com b $$$ s ∞ BLD BR
MURRAY CIRCLE
American Cavallo Point’s acclaimed restaurant features local seasonal fare by executive chef Justin Everett, with pairings from an extensive wine list and tempting desserts. Stop by Farley Bar for cocktails with a view. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD BR
POGGIO Italian Executive chef Benjamin Balesteri creates Northern
Italian fare using fresh and local ingredients. Private dining rooms above the restaurant can accommodate larger parties (10 to 150 guests). 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD
SCOMA’S OF SAUSALITO Italian The Scoma’s boat fi shes seasonally, going out from Pier 47 and is approved for salmon and Dungeness crab resulting in fresh catches year-round. The menu regularly features whole crabs, chowders, grilled fish and house specialties. 588 Bridgeway, 415.332.9551, scomas sausalito.com s $$ C LD
SUSHI RAN Japanese Sample innovative small plates just big
CAPRICE California Book the private party room for large groups or just relax in this romantic dinner spot. Take advantage of the restaurant’s wellpriced three-course dinners for less than $25, and don’t miss prime rib Mondays. 2000 Paradise Dr, 415.435.3400, thecaprice.com s $$$ D
RUSTIC BAKERY
California The newest location of this beloved bakery offers the same menu as the other locations as well as outdoor dining. Enjoy a wide selection of fresh salads, sandwiches and pastries on the boardwalk. 1550 Tiburon Blvd, 415.797.6123, rusticbakery.com b $$ s C BLD BR
SALT & PEPPER
American This sunfi lled one-room restaurant, featuring hardwood floors and blue-checkered tablecloths, is an area favorite. Popular items include scallops, ribeye steak, a beef burger and traditional crab cakes with jalapeño dipping sauce. 38 Main St, 415.435.3594 b s ∞ LD
Italian Chef and owner Angelo Servino highlights organic ingredients in an array of rustic Italian dishes, including house-made pastas, wood oven pizzas, and seasonal specialties. Located on the bay in Tiburon, Servino also prides itself on itsextensive sustainable seafood program. Savor la dolce vita on the waterfront patio. 9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º
NICK’S COVE American Nick’s Cove offers a coastal escape on Tomales Bay, serving famous barbecued local oysters, Dungeness crab mac ’n’ cheese and cocktails using home-grown ingredients. Large windows in the 130seat restaurant provide picturesque views of Tomales Bay and Hog Island. (Marshall). 23240 Hwy 1, 415.663.1033, nickscove.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR
OSTERIA STELLINA
California Whether it’s to cap off a ay of hiking or celebrate a romantic anniversary, Osteria Stellina suits any occasion. The menu is Italian-inspired and features local, organic
Serving Marin County since 1954, Marin Joe’s offers award-winning food, a full bar, live music and a classic ambience. Known for our Italian cuisine, we also serve up fan favorites: steak, cheeseburger and table-side Caesar salad. We have a festive banquet room available for parties.
Marin Joe’s
1585 Casa Buena Drive 415.924.2081 Corte Madera, CA marinjoesrestaurant.com
Why choose a single cut when you can feast on a dozen specialty cooked meats on live embers presented by dashing servers? Pikanhas Brazilian Steakhouse has developed a faithful following, ranked amongst the best local steakhouses. Come visit our cozy restaurant for an outstanding experience!
Pikanhas Brazilian Steakhouse 25 W. Richmond Ave 510.237.7585 Pt Richmond, CA pikanhassteakhouse.com
array of dining options to satisfy the whole family. All items are freshly prepared and served in a relaxed and inviting environment.
RangeCafe Bar and Grill 333 Biscayne Drive 415.454.6450 San Rafael, CA rangecafe.net bar and grill
On the Bay with unobstructed views, Scoma’s delights with incredibly fresh, creative food and warm, personal service. We offer steaming whole crabs, hearty chowders, clams, perfectly grilled fish and specialties. Seasonal offerings and perennial favorites keep the menu as lively and colorful as the daily catch.
Scoma’s Sausalito 588 Bridgeway 415.332.9551 Sausalito, CA scomassausalito.com
A block away from the Rafael, Vin Antico for pre movie oysters, or small bites after the movie. Our chef’s counter is specifically designed for dinner and a show. San Rafael’s only Farm to Table restaurant. Lunch and dinner. Happy Hour Mon-Fri, full bar, private dining space. Speakeasy open upstairs.
Vin Antico 881 4th Street 415.721.0600 San Rafael, CA vinantico.com
ingredients. If you’re up for something unusual, try the goat shoulder, a hit with both tourists and locals (Point Reyes). 11285 Hwy 1, 415.663.9988, osteriastellina.com b $$ s LD
American Perfect for a sit-down alfresco meal or for grabbing a burger to enjoy on the beach. Beautiful patio garden seating, ocean views, and private wood-fi red dinners make this café a relaxing retreat. If you’re on the go, check out the new market and bakery. Choose from an array of organic, locally grown produce, artisan meats and wild seafood (Stinson). 43 Arenal Ave, 415.868.1272, parksidecafe.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD
American Known for live music and an extensive menu featuring everything from Dungeness crab cakes
to garlic-rosemary lamb medallions, Rancho Nicasio is open seven days a week. Be sure to stop in for happy hour, 4 to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday. 1 Old Rancheria (Nicasio) Rd, 415.662.2219, ranchonicasio.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º
American Originally built from three barges in Tiburon in 1921, the Sand Dollar Restaurant wa s floated to Stinson that same year. Enjoy live music along with barbecued local oysters and New England clam chowder. The sunny deck is great in the afternoon (Stinson). 3458 Shoreline Hwy, 415.868.0434, stinson beachrestaurant.com s $$ s ∞ LD
CAFE American Fresh local homegrown foods are showcased for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Stop in on weekends (5 p.m. on
Sundays) for live music and wine, beer and cocktails (Point Reyes Station). 11180 Highway 1, 415.663.1515, stationhousecafe.com s $$ s ∞ C BLD BR º
AQ RESTAURANT & BAR California AQ takes seasonal to a new level, not only adapting the menu but also transforming the decor of the entire venue to match the weather outside. 1085 Mission St, 415.341.9000, aq-sf.com s $$$ ∞ D
BENU Asian/French Plan on a formal and sophisticated evening. The compositions on the tasting menu provide a full experience of this restaurant’s unique Asian fusion cuisine. 22 Hawthorne St, 415.685.4860, benusf.com b $$$ C D
BOULI BAR American/ Mediterranean Head to Boulettes Larder’s bar and dining room for the savor y fl avors of spicy lamb, feta and mint or the bittersweetness of salad topped with barberries, bulgur and pomegranate, all in a setting with handsome wood tables and an open kitchen. The dining room can be reserved for small private parties of up to 24 on request. The views of the Bay Bridge punctuate an unmistakably San Francisco setting. 1 Ferry Building, 415.399.1155, bouletteslarder.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD BR
CLIFF HOUSE California
Great food, beautiful view and lots of history — what else could you want? An awardwinning wine list? They have that too. Not only does Cliff ouse boast a popular Sunday champagne brunch, it also focuses on local, organic, sustainable
ingredients and seafood on its everyday menu. 1090 Point Lobos, 415.386.3330, cliffhouse.com s $$ s BLD
MICHAEL MINA Japanese/French Michael Mina has clearly mastered the fi ne line between award-winning art and Alaskan halibut. Each brilliantly crafted dish gives diners a delicate blend of fl avors that add up to a distinctive, luxurious dining experience. 252 California St, 415.397.9222, michaelmina.net s $$$ LD
NAMU GAJI Asian/ California A clean and natural design in a streamlined setting, where housemade shiitake mushroom dumplings and succulent grilled beef tongue are among the many options to discover. 499 Dolores St, 415.431.6268, namusf.com s $$ s LD BR º
NOPA California The easy California menu shows off oasted chicken and pork chops, with a bouquet of appetizers to set the mood. Although this S.F. destination is busy
almost every night (a good sign), the wait at the legendary bar is half the fun. 560 Divisadero St, 415.864.8643, nopasf.com s D BR
PERRY’S American Perry’s, for over 45 years an institution on Union Street in San Francisco, is known for its classic American food, its warm personable service and its bustling bar. Signature dishes include traditional Cobb salad, prime steaks and, of course, the renowned hamburger. Perry’s also serves a weekend brunch. Hotel Griffon, 155 Steuart St, 415.495.6500, perryssf.com s $$ s ∞ C D º
Steakhouse This all-you-can-eat steakhouse located in Point Richmond offers different cuts of beef, pork, lamb and chicken that are slowly cooked with special grills to preserve all the natural juices and fl avors. 25 W. Richmond Ave, Richmond 510.237.7585, pikanhassteak house.com b $$ s LD
s b $ $$ $$$ s ∞ C BLD BR º
Full bar
Wine and beer
Inexpensive ($10 or less per entree) Moderate (up to $20) Expensive ($20 and over) Kid-friendly Outdoor seating Private party room
Seating: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Brunch Happy hour
For even more local restaurant listings, vistit us online at marinmagazine.com
• BREAD AND ROSES
J.R. does make “hospital calls,” but doesn’t it make more sense to “Plan Your Legacy” in the quiet of his office? Together, we will create an estate plan that leaves you feeling confident and secure for yourself and your loved ones forever.
*Member Wealth Counsel and Elder Counsel, Certified Estate Planner, National Association of Estate Planners and Councils. 1003 Third Street, San Rafael • 103 East Blithedale, Mill Valley 415.459.6635 • www.jrhastingslaw.com
A 19th-century Mill Valley cottage is right downtown.
BY LAURA HILGERS • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER
WHEN INVESTOR/entrepreneur Tina Sharkey was growing up in New York City, she loved the independence of an urban adolescence, taking the subway or walking to restaurants on her own. As her own two boys became teenagers, she wanted to give them the same. But Sharkey, a single mom, lived on the waterfront in Mill Valley, with kayaks and seals. “It was beautiful,” says Sharkey, “but I wanted to get back to a village and community.”
So a year-and-a-half ago, Sharkey started putting out feelers among her Mill Valley friends. “Everyone was looking for her,” says Sharkey’s realtor, Marilyn Rich (along with Tracy McCulloch). “She has a wide network of friends and told everyone, ‘I want to be downtown.’ ”
Just as Sharkey was about to buy a large condo in downtown Mill Valley, her best friend, Lily Kanter (co-founder of Serena and
Lily), sent her a text, saying that the 1890s cottage across the street from her house was for sale. Sharkey visited and knew immediately she’d found her home. It had not only plenty of room for the boys — including a “man cave” upstairs — but also plenty of wall space for Sharkey’s extensive art collection, which includes pieces by Marin native Zio Ziegler, Laurie Simmons (writer/director Lena Dunham’s mom) and Josh Gosfield.
The house itself is something of an artwork. Built on a bucolic lot with soaring redwoods, it’s retained nearly all of its original charm, with oa k floors, crown molding and detailed window framing. A few years ago, the previous owners hired Mill Valley–based Richardson Architects to create a very organic addition, including a family room and master bedroom. Now the airy house, with a stunning kitchen/great room, straddles that pleasing tension between old and new, a juxtaposition
echoed by Sharkey’s own approach to design.
With the help of Cleaveland and Kennedy Interior Design, Sharkey has created an eclectic style, pairing unlikely items from different decades, such as a long wooden table with white modular chairs and Donald Baechler art (the dining room) or contemporary Serena and Lily bedding with a sculptural white chandelier and an 1840s federal sofa (her bedroom). On the wooden porch out front, Sharkey, who loves to entertain, has placed a Swedish folk art table, surrounded by Serena and Lily chairs. She even installed a professional-grade outdoor heater above the table so she and her boys can dine outside on chilly Mill Valley nights.
But often, they’re not there, since their new home is right downtown, which is exactly what the former city girl wanted. “My sons can walk everywhere, and I can walk to the store or into town with the dog,” says Sharkey. “I’m so happy.” m
WHAT SHE BOUGHT A four-bedroom renovated cottage
WHERE SHE BOUGHT Mill Valley’s Sycamore Park
LISTING AGENT Candace Nordstrom, Coldwell Banker
SELLING AGENTS Marilyn Rich and Tracy McCulloch, Paci fic Union/ Christie’s International Real Estate
THE STATS Price per square foot for homes in the neighborhood: $1,150
Opposite page: The living room has lots of wall space for art. This page, clockwise from top left: The porch swing; the updated kitchen with modern chandelier; Sharkey and her sons; the kitchen’s coffee nook; the master bedroom; Sharkey’s books and art.
Space-saving seating for any room.
BY PJ BREMIER
NEED A CONVENIENT footrest, a tuckaway seat, a place to set a tray or simply a pop of color? Consider the versatile, popular, portable pouf. These useful items can be stacked, grouped, slid under tables or, poof, just like that, stored in a closet until needed. Not as structured as an ottoman nor as compact as a footrest, the pouf rests somewhere in
415.456.3939, sunrisehome. com 4 Outdoor Pouf in Red Trellis by Threshold, $39.99, Target (San Rafael or Novato), 415.299.6112 or 415.892.3313, target.com 5 Lind Cowhide Square Cocktail Ottomans with removable legs and casters, $849 each, Room & Board (San Francisco), 415.252.9280, roomandboard.com
Breathtaking views of the San Francisco skyline, Corinthian Yacht Harbor, downtown Tiburon and San Francisco Yacht Harbor. Recently transformed, this rare and unique home was originally Zone R-2, a legal non-conforming duplex. This single family home, 4 bedrooms, 3 baths with additional attic space is on Mar West, just steps from downtown Tiburon.
Offered At $2,400,000
Lyndasue Johnson (415) 515-7010
Spacious multilevel townhouse in a convenient location, provides easy access to Tiburon shops, restaurants, ferry, theater & schools. A spacious living room with a fireplace opens to a quiet deck with panoramic views. The entry level features a large dining room and updated kitchen with granite counters, center island and breakfast bar. The master suite opens to a private deck with sauna. 3BR/2.5BA.
Offered At $1,699,000
C.Jay Key (415) 699-5747
Lovingly cared for 5BR/2.5BA home with a two car garage, waiting for your personal touch. Enjoy the family room, formal dining room, living room and updated kitchen. Relax on the deck and enclosed outside spa! HOA includes tennis courts, club house, pool and kiddie pool. Wild Horse Valley is a beloved neighborhood close to town but away from it all in a park like setting.
Toni Shroyer (415) 640-2754
Spacious 4BR/3.5BA split level home with a bonus room/office/ in-law area. Located on a quiet street, this approximately 2635 sq.ft. home offers a large living room with fireplace, open kitchen, family room that leads to the level yard area and four bedrooms all on the upper level including the large master suite with walk in closet and views. Downstairs features a bonus room, bathroom and kitchenette.
Offered At $899,000
Jennifer Bowes (415) 717-1632
Hamptons International, with over 85 offices in and South of London.
I needed a place to savor the moment.
The Sea Dragon Estate is comprised of 18 hidden acres situated perfectly above the dramatic beauty of west Marin’s coastline. The estate’s architecture and design reflects and embraces the natural beauty that surrounds it. The breathtaking main house is the core of the estate where massive stone slabs, hand tooled wood beams, stylistically weathered-patina steel and burnt concrete define its aesthetic. An array of additional buildings and spaces allow for private and separate guest quarters, art studio, equestrian facilities and plenty of outside entertaining venues. With its sizable acreage, desirable location, impressive main house and additional buildings, the Sea Dragon Estate can easily serve as a family compound or gathering place for extended family and friends.
Neal Ward 415.269.9933 or Glen Williams 415.465.442
260 DEL CASA DRIVE
Offered at $3,600,000
Lotte Moore 415.412.7471 or
Sarah Kowalczyk 415.464.7484
285 HILLSIDE AVE
Offered at $3,195,000
Sharon Faccinto 415.272.3799
25500 STATE ROUTE 1 HIGHWAY
Offered at $3,000,000
Neal Ward 415.269.9933 or Glen Williams 415.465.4423
2517 MAR EAST STREET
Offered at $2,995,000
Lotte Moore 415.412.7471 or
Sarah Kowalczyk 415.464.7484
52 CRESCENTE AVE
Offered at $1,995,000
Marla Moresi-Valdes 415.971.2535
31 MAGDALENA COURT
Offered at $1,950,000
Ann Murphy 415.317.6731
214 RICHARDSON STREET
Offered at $1,695,000
Darwin Tejada 415.351.4632
PRIVATE LISTING
Offered at $935,000
Lotte Moore 415.412.7471 or
Sarah Kowalczyk 415.464.7484
10 MAIN DOCK Offered at $749,000
Steve Sekhon 415.480.4562
4 Santa Ana Court
Golden Gate Bridge to downtown San Francisco to Mt. Tamalpais. Residence includes a grand foyer, gourmet chef’s kitchen, two master suites, outdoor kitchen, swimming pool, pool house, six bedrooms, six and one-half baths, three-car garage. 4SantaAnaCt.com
The Art of Living—Zen-Like Retreat
239½ Cleveland Avenue, Mill Valley. A true work of art, this spectacular Mill Valley home was conceived by architect William Cullen with the connoisseur of life in mind. The environmentallyfriendly home evokes a harmonious zen quality throughout with each level opening out to contemplative outdoor rooms boasting panoramic views of the Richardson Bay, San Francisco, and the Bay Bridge.
Completed in 2012 and perfect for entertaining, this stunning home offers artistry, views and comfort on every level. The top level features a dramatic entry complete with a koi pond, an indoor/outdoor living area and a spacious guest/au pair suite with a private entrance.
The main level features an open concept floor plan including a modern kitchen with stainless appliances opening onto a family room and outdoor entertaining/dining patio.
The lower level offers 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms including a retreat-like master suite with an indoor/outdoor shower and a private viewing deck with hot tub.
This home also has a large basement/bonus room perfect as a kids playroom, workshop, gym or additional storage and a rooftop garden with viewing patio. A pneumatic vacuum elevator efficiently transports residents and guests to all three main living levels.
Bill Bullock
Lydia Sarkissian
GLOBALESTATES.COM
Modern Hillside Retreat. What if the view never ceased? If you lived on the edge of all the beauty and wonder you have aspired to? This contemporary residence high in the Tiburon hills embodies that possibility. Nestled in a dramatic slope with panoramic, sweeping views overlooking Belvedere Lagoon, Richardson Bay, and spanning from Mount Tamalpais to Oakland, this modern, approximately 4,900 square foot home is one of a kind. Intelligently designed for both entertaining and privacy, the residence comprises two levels with four bedrooms all on the view side, three full and two half-baths, and three fireplaces. The most dramatic, architecturally significant highlight is the copper roof, which undulates in reference to the wind swept, grassy hilltops of Tiburon’s iconic profile. This modern abode invites you to settle in and savor the eternal view.
TAKE A GOOD look at the above rendering before attempting to answer a few questions. What you’re looking at is a 1917 view of the Bay Area (it was called “Bay Country” back then) that appears on a 1925 brochure archived at the Anne T. Kent California Room of the Marin County Free Library. Here are the questions: 1 Is Stinson Beach on the map? 2 Are the Standard Oil tanks in Richmond, so visible now, on the map?
Many present-day landmarks are on this (almost) 100-year-old aerial map. BY
JIM WOOD3 Are San Quentin Prison, the Mountain Theatre and all of Marin’s 11 incorporated cities on the map? The brochure in which the map appears was promoting the Mount Tamalpais and Muir Woods Railway, which between 1896 and 1930 ran from downtown Mill Valley to the top of Mount Tamalpais and then, beginning in 1907, down into the then recently dedicated Muir Woods National Monument; it was known as “The Crookedest Railroad in the World.”
The answers: 1 In a way, yes: at the time, Stinson Beach was called Willow Grove. 2 Yes. 3 Yes, yes and yes (except Novato).
The brochure in which the map appears was promoting the Mount Tamalpais and Muir Woods Railway.
OSKA
153 Throckmorton Mill Valley, CA 94941 415 381 1144
OSKA 310 Center Street Healdsburg, CA 95448 707 431 7717
Shop online millvalley.oska.com
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