Thar She Blows

Local Getaways, Spring 2022

These ancient sea creatures capture our hearts and minds — for a good reason.

By Jeanne Cooper

WHALES ARE AMONG THE LARGEST and oldest animals on Earth, with a spectacular tale of evolution. They began as land-dwelling, hoofed mammals more than 50 million years ago, and then returned to the sea as warmblooded ocean dwellers. Like humans, whales are sentient creatures who nurse their offspring, form bonds and friendships, sing and play.

They come in all shapes and sizes, from the snowy white arctic belugas and tusked narwhals — which inspired mythical tales of unicorns — to the great orca hunters, singing humpbacks and 100-foot blue whale leviathans, the largest creatures on Earth. An 1820 attack on a New England whaling ship by a sperm whale, which can weigh up to 45 tons and grow to 52 feet long, inspired Henry Melville to write "Moby Dick." Fortunately, the waters off California and Hawaii today serve as a sanctuary rather than a slaughterhouse for these magnificent creatures, typically spotted during their migrations to and from warmer waters.

Gray whales swimming from Alaska to Mexico pass San Francisco and Monterey Bay and then again as they head north. Humpback whales traditionally appear in the nutrient-rich Monterey Bay (and occasionally even inside San Francisco Bay) mid-April through December, before heading south to Mexico. With changing weather patterns and an increase in population, some humpback whales have even decided to live in Monterey Bay year-round. Killer whales, or orcas, can be seen throughout the year, too, but they’re most common March through June. They add a touch of murderous suspense to whale-watching tours as they prey upon gray whales and their young migrating northward.

The Bizarre Blubber Business

By Jeanne Cooper

During the heyday of Pacific whaling inthe mid-19th century, towns like Lahaina and Monterey were international hubs of commerce and created some curious commodities.

• Whale oil, made from rendered blubber, served as fuel for oil lamps. San Francisco’s first street lamps, installed in 1853, relied on both whale oil and kerosene, according to the Museum of the City of San Francisco.

• The cleanest-burning whale oil, spermaceti, comes from an organ in the head of sperm whales that holds up to 500 or more gallons of the liquid. At room temperature, it turns into a wax that was used for candles and face creams.

• After kerosene and petroleum gutted the market for whale oil, the surplus became a primary ingredient in margarine, invented in 1869. European margarine manufacturers such as Unilever relied on whale oil through World War II — Adolf Hitler even sent a secret pre-war mission to Antarctica to scout potential whaling fields in case of supply-chain disruption.

• Whalebone, the nickname for baleen, served as corset and collar stays, umbrella ribs, buggy whips and toy parts.

• Weirdest whale product? Ambergris, the protective waxy coating sperm whales produce when they try to digest an irritant like a giant squid’s beak and then expel in vomit or feces found floating in the ocean or washed up on the beach. Although illegal in the United States, it remains highly valued by some foreign perfume makers — to the tune of nearly $20,000 per pound — for its ability to enhance scents.

NorCal Whale Watching

By Matthew Poole and Jeanne Cooper

IT’S TIME TO WITNESS ONE OF THE GREATEST wildlife migrations on the planet, and it’s happening just west of you. Every March and April herds of gray whales can be spotted from shore as they journey northward along the coast, completing the last leg of their 14,000- mile annual round-trip. The proud parents are heading back to their Arctic feeding grounds after giving birth to their calves in the warm waters of Baja California (yes, even baby whales are adorable). It’s the kind of spiritually uplifting getaway that makes you realize that, as Northern Californians, we’re very lucky to be living in one of the most incredibly diverse places on earth. Here are our favorite places along the Northern California coast to spot gray whales — north to south, from Mendocino to Monterey Bay — as well as the best whale watching boat tours and places to stay during your whale watching getaway. And don’t forget to bring binoculars.

THE MENDOCINO COAST WHALE WATCHING

If there was ever a reason to spend a few days on the Mendocino coast, it’s to watch the whales. Because of the way the Mendocino coastline is formed, you can often spot whales right from the shore, while pods of them often feed and rest their young in Mendocino’s sheltered coves (especially near the Point Cabrillo lighthouse). To book a whale watching boat tour, give Captain Tim of All Aboard Adventures a call at 707.964.1881. He also runs sport fishing charters from his berth in Fort Bragg’s Noyo Harbor.

BODEGA BAY WHALE WATCHING

The whale watching opportunities at Bodega Bay are superb, particularly from the bluffs of Bodega Head, the small peninsula that shelters Bodega Bay. There are two hiking trails that follow the ocean, allowing you to combine both a seaside stroll and whale watching outing. And on weekends through Mother’s Day (May 8), you’ll find volunteer docents from the Stewards of the Coast and Redwoods who’ll share their knowledge of the gray whale migration with visitors. Donations of $5 to $10 per person are appreciated, as they help the stewards continue to provide free docent-led environmental education programs for school groups. To get to Bodega Head from downtown Bodega Bay, turn west on Eastshore Road, then turn right at the stop sign onto Bay Flat Road and follow it a few miles to the very end. Through April several of Bodega Bay's fishing charters offer whale-watching trips, such as Bodega Bay Sportfishing.

POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE WHALE WATCHING

This whale watching outing makes for a wonderful day trip from the Bay Area. The lighthouse at Point Reyes National Seashore is the top spot on the California coast to see gray whales as they make their northward migrations. But it’s no secret either, so if you plan to drive out to the lighthouse, arrive early as parking is limited and the winter bus shuttle has been discontinued due to Covid. If possible, come on a weekday and dress warmly — it’s often quite cold and windy out there.

SAN FRANCISCO BAY WHALE WATCHING

Our secret spot to watch whales that’s very close to San Francisco: Point Bonita Lighthouse on the southwest tip of the Marin Headlands. While the lighthouse itself is currently closed to tours, the views of the entrance to the San Francisco Bay are sensational at this prime location for spotting gray whales as they round the point. But if you really want to get a good look at these gentle giants, sign up for a whale watching cruise with Oceanic Society Expeditions, which runs 7.5-hour weekend tours, April through November. Tours depart from the San Francisco Yacht Harbor near Marina Green Park, pass Point Bonita and then head 27 miles offshore to the Farallon Islands. Expert naturalists are on board to tell you everything you’ve ever wanted to know about whales, including that blue whales as well as some gray whales live near the Farallones year round.

HALF MOON BAY WHALE WATCHING

A leisurely 45-minute drive from San Francisco, Half Moon Bay is one of our favorite coastal towns on the California coast. With its pristine beaches, mild climate, and easy access via Highway 1, or from the Peninsula and East Bay via Highway 92, it’s the perfect solution for anyone in need of a peaceful weekend getaway — especially when combined with a whale watching cruise. Contact Captain Duane Winter (aka Capt. Dew) of Mooch Better Fishing at 650.888.5125 for a charter tour from Johnson Pier in Pillar Point Harbor.

MONTEREY BAY WHALE WATCHING

The placid waters of Monterey Bay offer fantastic whale watching opportunities (including while lounging in a hotel’s rooftop hot tub), but you’ll have much better odds of spotting them during a whale watching cruise with Monterey Bay Whale Watch, owned by marine biologist Nancy Black. She’s been observing whales, dolphins and other marine mammals in the bay for more than 30 years. Combine one of her company’s daily 3- and 4-hour tours with a trip to the famous Monterey Bay Aquarium. To try your chances at seeing a cetacean from a hot tub, book a room and a spa treatment at Monterey Plaza Hotel and Spa, which offers two rooftop whirlpools.

WHALES IN HAWAII

Photo by ROB/ADOBE STOCK

By Jeanne Cooper and Ann Wycoff

Minke whales: JULY - OCT The smallest of whales with baleen (keratin plates) in their mouths rather than teeth, the minke population in the Pacific Northwest is estimated at 370 yearround. They weigh up to 10 tons and grow up to 35 feet, with a relatively large dorsal fin that makes them easy to spot, Black says, most frequently in summer and fall. Whales have held an honored role in Hawaiian culture since the first Polynesian voyagers arrived on these islands more than a thousand years ago. The appearance of koholā (koh-hoh-LAH), or humpback whale, marks the second phase of the ancient Hawaiian creation story known as the Kumulipo. The ivory teeth of palaoa (puh-LAU-uh), the rarely seen sperm whales, that drifted ashore became highly prized as pendants on necklaces of braided human hair.

Thousands of humpback whales wintered in the islands, mating, giving birth, nursing and frolicking before returning to Alaska to feed before the first two whaling ships arrived from New England in 1819. The whale-rich shallow waters off Maui’s leeward side quickly made Lahaina the epicenter of the Pacific whaling trade, which turned whale blubber into lantern oil, whalebone into corsets and umbrellas, and ambergris into perfume, among other profitable uses.

By the mid-19th century, kerosene and petroleum had started to replace whale oil as a source of fuel, but hunting or otherwise harming whales in Hawaii remained legal until the passage of the Endangered Species Act in 1973. To protect their greatly depleted populations even further, Congress created the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary in 1992, five separate areas covering nearly 1,400 miles of shallow waters and coral reefs.

Today, an estimated 12,000 humpbacks travel from Alaska to Hawaii each year, making these waters a humpback haven from roughly November through March and offering travelers and residents a chance to encounter these incredible giants. Coming into close contact with a whale like the humpback is a privilege and an enormously thrilling experience. The humpback, some 60 feet long, loves to breach, hurling its massive 40-ton body out of the sea. They also spy hop, popping straight up to view their surroundings, and slap their flukes and pectoral fins along the water’s surface, all incredible sights to behold. The male humpback is also revered for its incredible litany of songs, believed to be a form of communication, especially during mating; ocean swimmers who dip their heads underwater may find themselves hearing their otherworldly tunes.

While the humpbacks are migratory, the elusive sperm whales and some 23 other marine mammals classified as toothed or baleen whales (some are actually dolphins) are known to frequent Hawaiian waters. They prefer water many fathoms deep, so you’ll need to take a longer cruise and have a bit of luck to spot those, with the westernmost point of Hawaii Island closest to such habitat.

We can protect and respect all of these magnificent creatures by opting in for credible whale watching outfitters and supporting organizations that champion their preservation.

COMMON CALIFORNIA WHALES

By Jeanne Cooper

There’s more than one kind of cetacean to spot on a whale-watching tour in Northern California. Here are five to observe swimming in or near Monterey Bay at various (approximate) times of the year, according to Nancy Black, founder of Monterey Bay Whale Watch.

Humpback whales: APRIL - DEC

Named for their distinctive back, these whales breed and bear young in Mexico in winter, then migrate to Central and Northern California in summer and fall to feed on sardines, anchovies and krill. Now numbering about 800, after being hunted nearly to extinction, they can reach 60 feet long and weigh up to 40 tons. Black considers them the most curious, often approaching her tours to get a closer look.

Killer whales: MARCH - JUNE

Also known as orcas, these are actually the largest member of the dolphin family, weighing up to 11 tons and spanning 32 feet. Pods of eight to 12 will attack gray whales, seals, sea lions and elephant seals in Monterey Bay.

Gray whales: SEPT - APRIL

Some 25,000 gray whales migrate along the coast between Alaska and Baja California twice a year. Traveling closest to shore in spring to protect their babies from orcas, they may journey 10,000 miles or more round trip. Gray whales can grow up to 49 feet long and weigh up to 90,000 pounds.

Blue whales: MAY - OCT

The largest of all creatures ever to roam our planet, the endangered blue whale feeds only on krill, coming into Monterey Bay from June through October when it’s most abundant, according to Black. The estimated 2,200 whales in the Northern Pacific population typically grow 80 to 100 feet long, weighing up to 50 tons and able to blow a spout 30 feet in the air.