17th South November/December 2016 by 17th South Magazine

Authentic Living in the Heart of Atlanta NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016 ISSUE 5 FREE n

e m Ho ooking) (C

s y a d i l Ho For the

ONE EARED STAG'S ROBERT PHALEN DISHES UP A DELICIOUS BRUNCH

Sugarland's Kristian Bush sounds off on his new musical

Botiwalla offers a new take on Indian food Four calorie-torching workouts for winter

Holiday

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Photos: 26. David McClister; 36. Sara Hanna; 20 & 30. Erik Meadows 12. Sandra Platten

20 30

CONTENTS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016 7 Editor’s Letter 9 LATEST

The newest restaurants, shops and other spots to arrive on the scene

Living 12 Shelter

Take a peek inside a feminine flat at Ponce City Market

16 Style to Go

A stylish guy’s take on cozy fall layers

18 Wellness

Four calorie-torching, indoor workouts for cooler weather

20 People

Meet the founders of Treehouse Milk

22 Out of Town

A food-focused escape to Charleston, South Carolina

24 In-Town Escape

Marietta gets merry and bright for the holidays

Culture 26 Headliners

Sugarland’s Kristian Bush plays composer for a new show at the Alliance

28 Creators

The story behind the art at Midtown’s 5Church

Indulge

Happening

30 Restaurant Review

41 Events

32 Liquids

44 CAPTURED

Botiwalla puts a modern spin on Indian cuisine

Go for the gold with persimmon cocktails

34 Fresh Bites

What’s new and notable in the world of food and drink

What to see and do when you’re off the clock

Playtime on the BeltLine

Cover Story 36 Home (Cooking) for the Holidays

One Eared Stag’s chef and proprietor, Robert Phalen, prepares a crowd-pleasing holiday brunch at home

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

P.O. Box 11633, Atlanta, GA 30355 n 17thsouth.com For advertising rates call: 404.538.9895 or email: advertising@17thsouth.com

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016 | ISSUE 05 Serving Midtown, Ansley Park, Morningside, Virginia Highland, Westside, Old Fourth Ward, Inman Park, Poncey-Highland, Cabbagetown, Reynoldstown and Grant Park

THE MOST DELICIOUS WAY TO GIVE BACK: Chef Robert Phalen’s holiday brunch is served!

JOIN THE NO KID HUNGRY ATLANTA SOCIETY

Publisher and Founder

Cover Photo: Sara Hanna

Joanne Hayes

Chief Financial Officer

CONTRIBUTORS Lauren Finney WRITER

No Kid Hungry Atlanta Society membership provides an enriching experience through fundraising projects and exclusive invitations to society events. This fall we are accepting nominations for our inaugural No Kid Hungry Atlanta Society 2017 and would love to make you an official member.

Visit www.NKHSociety.com for more information.

“I’d eat at Bread and Butterfly for brunch every weekend if my diet would allow; you really can’t go wrong with anything on the menu. I’m a huge fan of the pancakes, but I also love just grabbing a croissant and having my tea on the porch while I watch Inman Park wake up.”

Sonny Hayes

Editor-In-Chief

Lindsay Lambert Day Creative Director

Alan Platten

Vice President, Sales & Marketing

Cheryl Isaacs

cheryl.isaacs@17thsouth.com Account Executives

Kyle Wilcox Garges kyle.garges@17thsouth.com

Alyson Myerson alyson.myerson@17thsouth.com Director of Audience Development

Laura Raines

The Wells Marketing Agency

WRITER

“There’s nothing ordinary about the food hall at Ponce City Market, which is becoming a favorite place to shop and lunch for the holidays. Since I love to cook Italian, Bellina Alimentari speaks my language. And it blends well with a browse through Citizen Supply, Archer Paper Goods and Binders.”

Karon Warren WRITER

“I love dessert, and there’s nothing better than a good scoop of ice cream. One of my favorite treats is the chocolate hot fudge sundae at Vintage Frozen Custard on the Westside. Chocolate frozen custard, hot fudge, salted nuts, whipped cream and a cherry—what’s not to love?”

Website Development Management

BHG Digital Contributing Writers

Karina Antennuci H.M. Cauley Lauren Finney Jennifer Bradley Franklin Abbie Koopote Kate Parham Kordsmeier Lia Picard Laura Raines Karon Warren Photographers Sara Hanna sarahanna.com

Erik Meadows Lia Picard Sandra Platten

Graphic Designers

Layal Akkad Gwantsa Giorgini Copy Editor

H.M. Cauley Legal Counsel

Scott I. Zucker We welcome all contributions, but we assume no responsibility for unsolicited material. No portion of this publication can be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written permission. Copyright © 2016 by 17th South®. All rights reserved. Printed by Walton Press, Inc. Distributed by Distributech and Distribution Services Group.

here’s something special about sitting down at a proper dining table to share a proper meal with friends and family during the holidays. Maybe it’s because we all tend to be constantly on the go, and the holidays allow us to slow down, relax and reconnect with the people who are most important in our lives. Maybe it’s a much-needed respite from social media, a chance to savor conversations face to face across the table. (And by the way, when did that become a novelty?) Maybe it’s the heartwarming, soul-soothing feeling that comes with digging into a plate of homemade food, which, if you’re like my husband and me, is becoming all too rare an experience thanks to hectic schedules that often lead to takeout. All of the above are reasons why, for this issue’s cover story, we decided to invite ourselves to a holiday brunch at the Decatur home of chef Robert Phalen who helms Inman Park eatery One Eared Stag. Phalen makes a living by feeding the restaurant’s discerning, food-savvy patrons, so we couldn’t help but be curious about what he puts on the table for his own family to celebrate the holidays. By the time the cooking and the shoot were complete, our team was so charmed by the Phalens— including Rob’s wife, Allison, and the couple’s three adorable kids—that we were secretly wishing for an invitation to future family gatherings. Oh, and as for what Phalen actually did put on the table for his brood to eat? Head to page 36 to find out. You’ll also find a recipe for each dish, and we hope you’ll tear them out and recreate the family’s feast for your own holiday guests. I can assure you, they’ll head home with full bellies and full hearts. And isn’t that what the holidays are all about? Enjoy!

Lindsay Lambert Day EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Latest OPENINGS & ARRIVALS | STORIES: Laura Raines |

PIES AND POURS A Neapolitan trattoria and a 1920s speakeasy now share downtown’s renovated Dailey’s building

ow far would you go to learn to make real Italian pizza? Stephen de Haan and Greg Grant apprenticed themselves to Pizzeria Mattozzi (established in 1830) and Pizzeria Da Attilio in Naples, Italy, for two months earlier this year, and earned certification from the Association of True Napoletana Pizza.

Their new eatery, Amalfi Pizza, located on the second floor of the downtown building that once housed Dailey’s Restaurant & Bar, opened in September with a limited pizza menu, but appetizers, salads, pasta dishes and original desserts have been added since. “I’ve always been passionate about pizza, and when I walked into the entrance of the old Dailey’s building, the space inspired me. I was transported to Italy,” says de Haan. Grant and de Haan had been looking for a new location in which to open another 1920s speakeasy and cigar lounge—a new venture after closing their Andrews Entertainment District in Buckhead.

“We wanted to be downtown because of the enormous growth and investment this area has seen,” says de Haan. “We ran across the Dailey’s building and fell in love with it.” The two-story, 12,000-squarefoot building also afforded the duo space in which to open their new Red Phone Booth speakeasy that occupies the ground floor. The owners spent nine months renovating the building. “We have been peeling away the layers to get to the original heart pine floors, brick walls and massive wood beams,” de Haan says. Patrons of the new Red Phone Booth will find familiar elements from Buckhead’s Prohibition, from the secret-number, antique

phone booth entry to rare liquors and unusual drink flavorings. There are more than 100 brands of premium and hand-rolled cigars in the expanded 18-foot-long walk-in humidor. New are the high ceilings, and a much-improved ventilation system. For Amalfi, they imported two 6,000-pound, wood-burning brick ovens capable of cooking a pizza at 900 degrees in about a minute. “We also import the Molino Pisini flour and cans of tomatoes. We crush the tomatoes by hand,” de Haan says. “We’re proud of honoring the old traditions, and the response from customers has been amazing.” n amalfipizzaatl.com redphonebooth.com

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Latest OPENINGS & ARRIVALS

Tech Ready Midtown’s Colony Square earns an elite platinum rating from WiredScore

egun in the late 1960s, Colony Square, at the corner of 14th Street and Peachtree streets, had all the bells and whistles of a modern, mixed-use development. But eventually, those features found themselves in need of an upgrade, which is exactly what North American Properties (NAP) is providing. Mark Toro, managing partner of NAP, says that he and his wife had lived around the corner from Colony Square for 10 years. “Almost daily, I would walk past the property, imagining its potential,” says Toro. “Colony Square has the

Technology meets shopping and culture at the reimagined Colony Square.

highest pedestrian count in the city, outside of Georgia Tech’s campus. The area is highly accessible, but it’s time to open the development up to the street, inviting the community in, and creating street-level energy throughout the property.” The reimagined design has a new ‘urbane’ brand, a softer, more approachable retail space and the latest in technology infrastructure. WiredScore has given Colony Square’s 100 and 400 buildings its highest platinum rating, making it

best-in-class for internet service, telecom infrastructure, ease of installation and capacity. Only 1180 Peachtree and Ponce City Market also hold that rating in the area. “The Wired Certified Platinum rating assures tenants that our buildings can meet and exceed their technology needs and future-proof their businesses,” says Toro. NAP plans to open the reimagined Colony Square in July 2018, 50 years after its groundbreaking. n colonysquaremidtown.com

All-Access Ivories A musically driven nonprofit is plunking free-to-play pianos down around town ince August, a butterfly-painted piano has been sitting in Callaway Plaza at the Woodruff Arts Center. Its name is Carly. Feel free to introduce yourself. It’s okay to touch it, even play it. Give a concert if you want.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Thanks to a $300,000 grant from The Rich Foundation, Oakland Cemetery’s Jewish Hill gets a needed restoration Neale Nickels, director of preservation at Oakland Cemetery, hopes to someday work himself out of a job and to see the 48 acres of Oakland Cemetery fully restored. The Rich Foundation has been helping him do it. Foundation grants have helped restore the original Jewish section and the Jewish Flats, which the Hebrew Benevolent Congregation acquired in the late 1870s. In August, The Rich Foundation awarded the Historic Oakland Foundation a $300,000 grant to restore the Jewish Hill section. He plans a complete restoration of the hardscape. “No stone will be left unturned, so to speak,” says Nickels. Period-appropriate landscaping and interpretive elements will complete the project. “One of the most important components of preservation is education. My job is more than rebuilding walls; it’s sharing the stories of the people buried here,” he says.

The free public instrument is the second placed by Play Me Again Pianos, a nonprofit organization that plans to bring 88 free public pianos to metropolitan Atlanta communities. The first is installed under the pavilion at the playground in Chastain Park. “It’s so popular that we have to stand in line just to tune it,” says Jason Brett, who founded Play Me Again Pianos with his wife, Kelly, and their son, Nico. “When we arrived at the ribbon-cutting for Carly, two little girls were already playing the instrument. We know these

Resting Place Revamp

pianos are appreciated and bring a positive influence to their communities. People stop to smile, listen and play. They tell us their stories.” The idea for public pianos came from a 2013 Brett family European vacation and their son’s dedication to practice. After picking up piano at age 5, Nico promised himself that he would practice every day, and he did. Not wanting to break his practice streak (now 11, Nico still hasn’t missed a day), the family located a free public piano at a train station in London and

one in Paris. “Energetic crowds of travelers would gather around them, and despite language barriers, they’d connect over music,” says Brett. “We thought it would be great if the same thing could happen in Atlanta.” And the show’s not over yet: A third piano, named Liam after the young artist Liam Agans, who painted it, was installed at the Woodruff Arts Center on October 16. A fourth is coming in November to Colony Square. n

Many of those buried in Jewish Hill played a significant role in Atlanta’s early history, including members of the Rich family who founded Rich’s Department Store in 1943.

playmeagainpianos.org

oaklandcemetery.com

“We strive to be a beacon for Atlanta’s preservation, both in caring for the grounds and in getting the stories out,” says Nichols. The Historic Oakland Foundation offers general and topic specific historic tours and will soon unveil a phone app for a self-guided walking tour. n

Living

SHELTER n STYLE n WELLNESS n PEOPLE OUT OF TOWN n IN-TOWN ESCAPES

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URBAN OASIS Bohemian beauty in a feminine-meets-industrial flat at Ponce City Market

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Living SHELTER

Above: The den features a mix of vintage pieces and new furnishings to create a Bohemian-chic environment. Below: Martin loves the minimalist appeal of her home that’s enhanced with pops of color.

URBAN OASIS After two years in NYC, Georgia native Elizabeth Martin finds city style and Southern comfort in her Ponce City Market flat | STORY: Karon Warren | PHOTOS: Sandra Platten |

hen chandelier designer Elizabeth Martin of Sullivan + Phenix decided to move back to Atlanta after living in New York City for two years, she searched for a place reminiscent of NYC’s fast-paced lifestyle. “I wanted to have a lot going on because I’m used to a city,” she says. Martin found what she was looking for in The Flats at Ponce City Market in Old Fourth Ward. The clean, modern design of her unit and the historic building that is PCM come together to create an Atlanta apartment at

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

home in one of the largest adaptive uses of a building in the city. The Flats are housed in the former Sears, Roebuck & Co. building that was constructed in 1926. After acquiring the property in 2011, real estate operator Jamestown began construction on the adaptive reuse and physical restoration of the building in 2013. A year later, Ponce City Market and The Flats opened for businesses and residents. In April 2016, Martin moved in and set about turning the 655-square-foot space into her home. Martin loves the exposed brick from the original building and the big iron windows that allow light to spill into the flat. Because of its

“It’s a little bit Bohemian-chic, not at all traditional. That’s what I was going for.” ELIZABETH MARTIN

Above: Martin created a gallery wall featuring the works of five Southern artists, including her own sister. Below: Textures such as wood, woven materials and even plants add interest to the space.

cozy size, she didn’t try to do too much interior decorating, instead preferring a minimalist approach. “I went the serene route with a few pops of color. Pink is definitely my favorite, but I tried not to use too much of it,” she says. “It’s a little bit Bohemian-chic, not at all traditional. That’s what I was going for.” Martin achieved her look by combining new pieces with hand-medown furnishings from her family. For instance, she purchased rugs for her den and bedroom while traveling in Morocco. “I went right before moving back to Atlanta, so I bought those to cover the concrete floors,” she says. For the couches, she added color bursts with a variety of pillows picked up at a mix of contemporary home decor shops. The dining room rug came from a boutique home store in Columbus, Ga.; the dining table was purchased at West Elm; and the gold and marble lamps in the den were found at Anthropologie.

Living SHELTER

Complementing the new furnishings are two wooden side tables that previously belonged to Martin’s great-aunt. The brown wooden dresser and the vanity mirror in the bathroom came from family members. As one of four children, Martin is the recipient of many hand-me-downs, and she’s not afraid to use them. “I like to mix and match,” she says. She also included family in the artwork she chose, which is displayed behind the dining table. The paintings and drawings were done by five different Southern artists, including her sister Lulie Wallace, a well-known artist based in Charleston, S.C.. Wallace painted the picture of flowers in the vase showcased in the center of the collection. For Martin, what ties it all together is texture. “Because I love interiors, I feel I’m easily impressed [by other interior designs I’ve seen],” she says. “I tried to have as many textures as possible—glass, woven materials, even plants—because they add interest.” Plants also add color throughout the space, as evidenced by the green ficus in the corner and the fuchsia orchid on the side table. “It’s an easy, cheap way to add a lot of color and texture,” Martin says. “Plants can change everything.” Although Martin didn’t design the

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

flat’s kitchen herself, it also adds texture to the space, thanks to Tribeca wood cabinetry, quartz countertops, a tiled backsplash and stainless steel appliances. Along with the open floor plan, the kitchen lends itself to entertaining, which Martin enjoys. In fact, there’s not much about living in her flat that Martin doesn’t like. “It was like a side of Atlanta I hadn’t seen,” she says of the community. “It’s like one big family. Everyone is always in the best mood, the energy is so good and there are dogs everywhere.” That’s good news

for Martin’s French bulldog, Sophie. Residents of The Flats also enjoy such amenities as wireless internet, access to two fitness centers, secured bike parking and covered parking. With shopping and dining just steps away and the BeltLine right outside, Martin doesn’t have to travel far for entertainment, which is a good thing for someone who’s used to New York City’s busy lifestyle. Thankfully, though, The Flats offer a generous dose of Southern hospitality, making it an ideal place for Martin to call home. n

The bed faces the large iron windows, one of Martin’s favorite features of her home.

DESIGN DETAILS Area Rugs– Den & Bedroom

Vintage rugs from Morocco Dining Table

West Elm

westelm.com Couch Pillows

West Elm, CB2, Twine & Twig, Calypso St. Barth Home westelm.com cb2.com twineandtwigstyle.com calypsostbarth.com/home Pink Bedroom Lamp

Ro Sham Beaux, Charleston, S.C.

ro-sham-beaux.com Artwork

Various Southern artists, including Martin’s sister, Lulie Wallace. luliewallace.com

The bathroom is secluded from the otherwise open floor plan of the flat.

Living

STYLE

STYLE TO GO

Cozy

l o Co

Alejandro Valencia hits the streets of West Midtown looking stylish and snug in a fun, fall-layered outfit | STORY: Abbie Koopote | | PHOTO: Sandra Platten |

How would you describe your style? I like to think of myself as a chameleon when it comes to fashion. My style really changes every day, and I like to adapt my outfits to my environment. Both the occasion and my mood play a huge part when I am getting dressed in the morning.

Alejandro Valencia

What fall/winter trends are you most excited for this year? Trench coats and boots. I love wearing trench coats because I think they’re extremely chic and stylish, yet they also keep you warm on cooler days. Boots are great because you can dress them up or down. They are the perfect versatile fall/winter shoe. Where did you get these pieces you’re currently wearing? The beanie is from Urban Outfitters. My poncho is from Topman. My jeans are from Zara. My hoodie is from 21Men. I’m also wearing my favorite pair of Ray-Bans that I never leave home without. The boots come from Wish, one of my favorite stores in Atlanta that always has unique finds. The scarf is my favorite piece I’m wearing because my mother (Natasha Valencia), who is a fashion designer in my home country, Venezuela, made it for me. Where do you find fashion inspiration? GQ’s Style Issues are something

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

AGE: 27

OCCUPATION: Fashion

Marketing and Management student at SCAD Atlanta/model/ Marketing Director for EcoHome Atlanta.

I look forward to every year, and they’re definitely my main source of fashion inspiration. These special issues come out twice a year and are dedicated to sharing the big trends for spring/summer and fall/winter. GQ Style Issues are something I have collected for years and enjoy looking back on when I need inspiration. What should every man have in his closet? I think a high-quality, well-fitted, white button-down is a must for every man to own. You can dress it

down with jeans or dress it up by adding a tie or even a bowtie; the possibilities are really endless with this one simple piece of clothing.

follow him on social media [Twitter and Instagram user @iamgalla]. He’ll inspire you to dress up and take some risks with your style.

Which celebrity’s closet would you love to raid? Fashion blogger Adam Gallagher. I think he has the dream closet for any man. His clothes and accessories vary in terms of prices and brands, which I think is really cool. He has great clothing for every occasion, as well as unique, everyday street style. I recommend that any fashion lovers

When it comes to your style, do you like to play it safe or take risks? I definitely consider myself a fashion risk taker. What’s the fun in wearing boring clothes? I want to stand out with my style, and to get people’s attention, sometimes you have to do the unexpected or you will just blend in, especially when you work in the fashion industry. n

1 in 4 Georgia kids faces hunger. You can help. Donate at acfb.org

Living WELLNESS

C2 at CorePower Yoga Midtown Get ready to sweat at this recently opened Midtown studio. Not your typical yoga studio vibe, it feels more like a boutique gym with two well-appointed practice rooms and spacious changing rooms with showers and lockers, which come in handy if you’re headed to work afterwards. The 60-minute CorePower Yoga 2 class, called C2 for short, is a powerful yoga workout in a heated room (95 to 98 degrees with added humidity) and set to an energizing playlist that helps you turn off your mind and go with the vinyasa flow. By the time savasana rolls around, the stresses of the day will have melted off. $23 per class

FEEL THE

BURN If you took the fall—and, er, summer—off, there’s no time like the present to get back into or start a new workout routine. With the holiday season kicking off, like, yesterday (it starts with Halloween, right?), you may want to kick it up a notch, too, to balance out the extra eats and stress. Sweat it off with these heart-pounding yet low-impact fitness classes that all motivate with fun music—and results.

This winter, heat things up with these four high-intensity, low-impact workouts | STORY: Karina Antenucci |

Platform at Pure Barre Inman Park

FlyBeats at Flywheel Midtown

If you thought a Pure Barre class was intense, the studio’s newest offering, Platform, takes things to a whole new level. The 55-minute, fast-paced class kicks your heart rate up from start to finish with a low-impact interval-training workout that utilizes a platform (essentially, a step), light weights and the barre. Just when you think you can’t possibly lift your leg, tuck your tummy or do a side-plank pushup one more time, you shift to the next move. It’ll push you to your edge, for sure. $23 per class

This class is like dancing on a bike. The highenergy, 45-minute spin session perfectly choreographs your RPMs (that’s revolutions per minute, a.k.a. your speed) to an upbeat playlist. Unlike other Flywheel cycling classes, your intensity is controlled more by your torq (resistance) and position on the bike rather than RPMs, so don’t expect races and intervals of speed. Feeling competitive? Use the TorqBoard’s class rank display as extra incentive to up that torq. $28 per class

Pop Sculpt at Pop Physique Old Fourth Ward

CorePower Yoga 860 Peachtree St. 30308 470.447.1117 corepoweryoga.com Flywheel 1180 West Peachtree St. N.W. Suite 106 30309 404.865.3976 flywheelsports.com

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Pure Barre 240 North Highland Avenue Building 3, Suite B-1 30307 404.975.3244 purebarre.com Pop Physique 724 Monroe Drive N.E. 30308 404.474.0599 popphysique.com

Feel the burn in this dance-meets-Pilates class that blends the use of light weights, a Pop exercise ball and a ballet barre to strengthen and lengthen your body. Set in a new bright and minimalistic, industrial studio, the 60-minute barre workout combines stretching with strength training moves, such as planks and controlled leg lifts, and core work that will fire up those abs. Even if you’re a shorty, you’ll feel long and lean by the end of class. $20 per class

Living

PEOPLE “Pecans have tons of nutritional benefits, and pecan milk is surprisingly delicious.” BESS WEYANDT

y tt Nu For

t u N Milk

A pair of friends have cracked open the nut milk business here in Atlanta | STORY: Lauren Finney | PHOTO: Erik Meadows |

ere’s what happens when a journalist and a former politico with shared business aspirations team up: They create a nut milk company. Founded just last year by Kate Carter and Bess Weyandt, Treehouse Milk has already garnered some buzz in

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

the Atlanta area. Weyandt, an almond milk drinker herself, wondered why there weren’t any fresh, local options. She also found “the opportunity to build a company with Bess was too tempting, especially given our shared vision of providing a healthy, pure product in the city we both love.” So they formed their venture. Weyandt is a rare breed of intown Atlantan (she was raised in Morn-

ingside and lives in Kirkwood) who only left for college, and Carter is a Candler Park resident and former journalism teacher at Grady High School. The two formed their idea while walking on the BeltLine. Says Weyandt: “It’s nicely symbolic that this idea was hatched on the BeltLine. It represents in physical form the aspirational personality of Atlanta. There’s been a heightened appreciation for and investment in place here in recent years—whether it’s culture, or food or just intown living—and that’s allowed us and other local entrepreneurs to stay and create here.” From there, the duo knew that they wanted to focus on nut milks. “What we’re getting from large retailers isn’t really nut milk,” Weyandt points out. “The big brand almond milks contain very few almonds and are filled with thickening additives, like carrageenan (a carcinogen), that aren’t good for you. There is a simple and fresh way to make it, but it’s also time consuming.” Adds Carter, “Our process is very simple. For example, to make our pecan milk, we buy pecans directly from our friends at Pearson Farm in Fort Valley, Ga. We blend the four ingredients—pecans, water, honey

(from Sweetwater Creek Honey Farm) and vanilla—and then use a straining process to separate the meal from the milk. The result is smooth and creamy milk, a perfect local flavor for lattes and cappuccinos.” Pecan milk is still relatively untapped in the national nut milk market, and the two are hoping to change that, starting locally. “Pecan milk can be Georgia’s milk in the same way that almond milk is a California product,” says Weyandt. Their pecan milk can be used like other nut milks: Carter enjoys making chia pudding with her pecan milk or adding their chocolate pecan milk, made with single-origin cacao nibs from Xocolatl, Mexico, to coffee for extra zing. Milks are delivered fresh to homes in Atlanta on Mondays and Thursdays, which Carter suggests is “a great option, because the milks arrive on front porches all over Atlanta within an hour or two of when they are made.” They also offer one-off orders, monthly subscriptions and more, and will be partnering with local food companies such as Café Campesino and Xocolatl for holiday offerings. They’ve also moved into a new facility in Grant Park. For such a young business, Treehouse Milk has started with a bang, but to Weyandt and Carter, it’s only surprising that no one has tapped this particular nut before. Says Weyandt: “Georgia is the top pecan-producing state, and we’re proud of that. The pecan industry is far more environmentally sustainable than the almond industry; pecans have tons of nutritional benefits, and pecan milk is surprisingly delicious. It’s a win-win all around.” n

Visit treehousemilk.com to place an order and to find out which local retailers and farmers’ markets carry their milks.

1425 Piedmont Avenue | Atlanta | 30309 404.817.7773 jameshurleydesigns.com Call us for a complimentary consultation

Living OUT OF TOWN

Soul Food

| STORY & PHOTOS: Lindsay Lambert Day |

Rich with charm and waitlist-worthy restaurants, a visit to Charleston nourishes both body and spirit

hree years ago, on a hot October afternoon in Charleston’s Washington Square, I found myself gazing toward the ground where my now-husband was balancing on one knee in a patch of dappled sunlight. Pinched between two fingers on his outstretched hand was a delicate, twinkling diamond ring. The few minutes that followed are still a bit of a blur, but the butterflies we feel in our stomachs when we think back to that day—and when we think of Charleston— are as strong and clear as ever. Those life-changing few moments will forever link us to the Holy City, but as much as that square and its brilliant sunlight are emblazoned in our memories, there’s something else about that weekend that we’ll never forget: the food. For my husband and me, food has always been linked to celebrations, from graduations and promotions to birthdays and beginning new jobs. And so we spent that weekend in Charleston hopping from one buzzed-about restaurant to the next, from a five-star dinner and freeflowing bubbly at Sean Brock’s McCrady’s to an indulgent breakfast of pecan waffles and buttery biscuits at Low Country Bistro. With a carriage tour around the historic parts of town

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

and long walks along the city’s battery at sunset, the fairytale was complete. When it came time to plan a return visit to Charleston in 2016, we knew just where to start, and we got to work securing reservations around town. After checking in to our sunny suite at The Restoration Hotel, a welldesigned and wonderfully located hideaway on Wentworth Street just off King, we set out for dinner at Indaco. Cozied up at a narrow table next to the open kitchen, we shared a dish of creamy-as-could-be burrata, sprinkled with pickled blueberries, crunchy pistachios and delicate, fresh herbs. A melt-in-your-mouth margherita pizza followed, as did a bowl of pillowy, homemade black pepper tagliatelle. A crisp and refreshing Lowcountry Bolle—Prosecco, Aperol, limonata and Hella Citrus bitters—cleansed the calorie-laden richness from my palate. In the morning, we were loath to emerge from the warm cocoon of our king-size bed back at The Restoration, but were ultimately lured out by the promise of more discoveries to be made on a sultry Charleston summer day. We strolled through the manicured grounds of Boone Hall Plantation in Mount Pleasant, where a tour of the house took us back in time. By lunch time, we were craving relief from the heat, so we slid into a corner table at Little Jack’s Tavern on King Street. There, we were delighted

when bowls of chilled, mint-green summer soup arrived, along with heirloom-tomato-and-peach salads that were borderline too pretty to eat. A shrimp-and-farro salad to share rounded out our light, summer lunch and sealed the deal: We’d be back here again, for sure. From there on out, our world revolved solely around food. On a quiet Saturday morning, we lingered over a breakfast of crispy, chewy homemade English muffins, cheddar-and-chive grits and an otherworldly Nitro Vietnamese iced coffee at Mercantile and Mash. That evening, with a couple of old friends in tow, we sipped Champagne cocktails at The Ordinary’s bar and feasted on farm-fresh vegetable dishes (think tempura squash blossoms and crunchy roasted carrots) and whole roasted fish at The Grocery. We were the last patrons to leave the restaurant, and we waved goodnight and thanks to our studied server, grateful for her guidance in curating such a splendid spread. The next morning, our last, we settled in at a table in the rear of The Macintosh’s looming dining room. Somehow hungry despite the weekend’s endless indulgences, we made our selections. For my husband, it was The Duke: pickle-brined fried chicken, jalapeño cheddar gravy and a fried egg atop a dense, flaky biscuit. I chose a kale salad, a potentially dull

Clockwise from top left: Bricks and beams in a Restoration guest suite; heirloom tomato salad and cucumber soup at Little Jack’s Tavern; Mercantile and Mash; The Restoration’s exterior.

dish served anywhere else, but made extraordinary at The Macintosh with grilled patty pan squash and zucchini, crunchy peanuts, vibrant kimchi puree and tangy soy ginger vinaigrette. To call a dish with such effusive flavors a salad almost seems a disservice, and for a moment, I contemplated ordering up a second serving. With our bellies full and our spirits high, we wound our way through the thickening crowd, and we found our car at the curb. This town had once again worked its magic, and we set out toward Atlanta with the unmistakable flavors of Charleston still lingering on our tongues and in our hearts. n

VISIT WHERE TO STAY The Restoration Hotel therestorationhotel.com WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK The Grocery thegrocerycharleston.com Indaco indacocharleston.com Little Jack’s Tavern littlejackstavern.com The Macintosh themacintoshcharleston.com Mercantile & Mash mercandmash.com WHAT TO SEE Boone Hall Plantation boonehallplantation.com

Living

IN-TOWN ESCAPES

MAGIC IN Marietta A staycation to Marietta offers a throwback to Christmases past

ven if you don’t hail from a small town, there’s something wonderfully romantic and nostalgic about the holidays in a quaint hamlet. The customs are long-standing; the activities, traditional. And there might even be a dusting of snow to make it all Currier and Ives perfect. Before buying plane tickets to some charming mountain village in Vermont, consider planning a closer escape to Marietta, the Cobb County seat just a drive north on I-75 where you’ll find all the holiday trimmings. To start, nothing shouts Noel like a giant fir tree in the town square, also known as Glover Park. Marietta’s is always gigantic and lavishly lit, and welcomed with considerable fanfare in early December. The event involves local school choirs singing carols and a visit by Santa and Mrs. Claus. For the rest of the month, the tree provides a festive backdrop to the square, already home to a fountain that’s been known to freeze into glassy icicles if the temperatures drop below freezing. In late November,

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Above: With a lighted tree and a festive fountain, Glover Park is Marietta’s hub of holiday activity.

| STORY: H.M. Cauley |

an ice rink attracts skaters of all skill levels for a few hours of winter sport. The park also boasts plenty of benches, a soft-padded playground and a gazebo that’s wildly popular as an outdoor wedding venue when the climate is more seasonable. Restaurants, antique shops, clothing stores and art galleries around the square provide more than a weekend’s diversion. Through the end of December, the north side of the square is jammed on Saturday mornings with local artisans, crafters, bakers and farmers selling their locally grown produce. The market also draws crowds to the Sugar Cakes Patisserie, Jack’s New York Deli, the Australian Bakery and Cool Beans Coffee Roasters for hot drinks, croissants, scones and other breakfast/brunch treats. By dinner, the focus shifts to an international selection: Either on or within a half block of the square, find Mediterranean and Persian fare at Kish, Italian specialties at Piastra, Latin and Asian fusion dishes at Taqueria Tsunami and changing, seasonal, farm-to-table menus at Spring or The Butcher The Baker. Follow up the food with a live show, concert or film playing at the restored, art deco Earl

Right: Spice up a holiday visit to Marietta with a tour of the city’s haunted sites.

Smith Strand Theatre, built in 1935. At the Theatre in the Square, the annual holiday favorite is The 1940s Radio Hour Show, a mix of classic songs performed between the behind-the-scenes drama of a radio company. Not ready to retire? Check out the late-night live music scene at the Irish-themed pub, Johnnie MacCracken’s, tucked into the town’s former firehouse. With roots dating back to 1788, history is intimately woven into the city’s fabric. Hit the highlights with a Saturday morning ride in the Historic Marietta Trolley as it rolls by the old train depot (now the visitors center), antebellum mansions, the 250-yearold National Cemetery and the Root House, one of the town’s oldest homes. After dark, the same company offers lantern-lit walking ghost tours that recount some of the city’s spookiest history. The visitors center also offers maps of self-guided, themed walking tours, from the town’s black

heritage to its historic homes. For those who want to see inside some of those homes, pick up a ticket to the Marietta Pilgrimage, a Christmas Home Tour. This year’s event on December 3 and 4 marks the tour’s 30th anniversary of offering peeks into six private, historic homes that have been lavishly decked out in seasonal finery. After a full day of fun, snuggle into an antique four-poster at the bed-and-breakfast Stanley House Inn, or opt for a contemporary room at the Hilton Atlanta/Marietta Hotel and Conference Center, a short drive from the square. No matter where you sleep, a holiday getaway to Marietta is sure to inspire those sugarplum dreams of days gone by. n

For details about dining, lodging and activities in Marietta, stop by the Marietta Visitors Bureau at 4 Depot Street; call 770.429.1115; or visit mariettasquare.com.

Culture HEADLINERS n CREATORS

28 CREATORS

A VISUAL FEAST Patrons with an appetite for art find satisfaction at 5Church

ON SALE NOW!

Photos: Justin Driscoll

NOVEMBER 29-DECEMBER 4

FoxTheatre.org/Christmas • 855-285-8499 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Culture HEADLINERS

y r t n Cou ser

o p m Co

| STORY: Jennifer Bradley Franklin |

pend a few moments talking with Kristian Bush, the prolific songwriter, musician and half of Grammy-winning country duo Sugarland, and you get the sense that the 46-year-old Candler Park resident finds wonder and inspiration in just about everything. Case in point: He found himself writing almost a song a day and, through a serendipitous twist of fate, is a firsttime composer for the Alliance Theatre’s original musical, Troubadour, a story set in 1950s Nashville, opening in January. Here, he shares a glimpse into the magic of his creative flow.

It sounds like you’ve been busy. Sure! In the last three years since Jennifer [Nettles, of Sugarland] and I parked the tour bus, one of the

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

strange changes in my life is that I’ve started to write a lot of music. Whereas I would normally write 15 songs or 20 songs a year—because that’s kind of what’s required for an album—songs started coming at about 300 a year. How did you get connected with the Alliance? In early 2015 I got a phone call from Janece [Shaffer, playwright]. She just cold-called me and said, “Hey, I was wondering if you’d consider writing a song for my play.” I said, “Well, I seem to be writing songs all the time, so let’s have breakfast.” It was one of those epic two-hour breakfasts where she told me the whole story of these characters. She’s an expert-level storyteller, so I was in love with it by the middle of the meal, and I pretty much finished writing the song by the end.

Was that the beginning of the metamorphosis of Troubadour from a play to a musical? Yeah. After our breakfast there was this pause for a week, and then she was like, “Hey, Kristian. Would you consider writing a second song?” I was like, “Sure!” I wrote the second one, and then maybe two or three others, just so she could have choices. She kept all of them, and then suddenly said, “I need to introduce you to Susan Booth [Jennings Hertz Artistic Director] at The Alliance.” What can you share about Troubadour’s plot and setting? It’s set in the backdrop of country music in 1951 in Nashville, at the Opry. It’s that moment where the clothes moved from church clothes into these bedazzled, intricately tailored Manuel Cuevas suits. One of the characters is a Russian immi-

Photo: David McClister

Sugarland singer Kristian Bush takes on a different role for the Alliance Theatre’s new musical

grant tailor. The king of country music is retiring, and his son has been in his band. The question is: Will the son step into his shoes? Nobody really has heard the son sing. One night on the Opry as the broadcast was going out, something happened to the father’s microphone, and for about three minutes just the son’s voice singing was broadcast all over America. This girl from Tuscaloosa heard his voice on the radio, and she was suddenly able to write music. The whole story happens because she, the tailor and the son end up in a garage apartment. If you’re a fan of the musical Once or O Brother, Where Art Thou?, this is your thing. Are you already itching to work on another musical theatre project? After working with Janece, I can tell you I’ve never met anyone who can tell a story like that, ever. I’m Alliance Theatre constantly 1280 Peachtree Street obsessed with NE, 30309 talking her 404.733.4650 alliancetheatre.org into doing this again. n

Culture CREATORS

A l a u Vis Feast 5Church pays attention to artistic touches on the walls as well as the plates

Above: Text from The Art of War and art bearing a giant buffalo and the number 5 grace 5Church’s dining room. Left: Ayman Kamel. Below: An artistic take on the $5 bill.

| STORY: H.M. Cauley |

Neither, explains partner Ayman Kamel. It’s an entire book. And it’s the same book that’s written across the interiors of the restaurant’s forerunners in Charlotte and Charleston. The Art of War, an ancient manual on how to wage battle, dates to fifth century B.C. China, but a few of its pearls of wisdom drew the attention of the owners. One of their favorites, “There is only we,” streaks across the back of the bar area in gigantic letters not only as a visual effect but as the company’s approach to doing business. “It started because in our first restaurant in Charlotte, we wanted a black ceiling, but somehow, it didn’t look right,” says Kamel. “So we had this idea to write on it, and what started small became the whole book.” The tradition of painting an entire book between ductwork and lighting

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Interior Photos: Justin Driscoll

or an initial first visit to 5 Church restaurant in Midtown, it may not be the custom concrete bar or the enticing menu that draws attention. Instead, it’s more likely to be all that scrawling across the ceiling and up the walls. Is it artistic graffiti? Random words of wisdom in white paint across a black backdrop?

fixtures continues in Atlanta, as does mixing the number 5 into the artwork. But several pieces that connect to Atlanta were commissioned by local artists to make the Colony Square location specifically city-centered. One example: The wall behind a row of tables in the main dining room holds a painted $5 bill, accented with the face of Martin Luther King, Jr.; railroad imagery that connects to the city’s beginnings as a major transportation hub; and the word “resurgens,” Latin for “rising again,” an idea that has long been associated with Atlanta’s history as a town that knows how to bounce back from adversity. Kamel also tapped local artists to add to the visual menu. Michael Puzio of Puzio’s Iron Studio on the Westside put his creative touch in the center of the dining room, designing a floor-toceiling tree with a trunk, limbs and leaves made of welded iron. William Massey III, who specializes in creating works of disparate pieces that have

been showcased along the BeltLine and in several local galleries, came up with a gigantic buffalo nickel (a “5” reference) that fills most of the wall in the back of the dining room. The appeal of the piece is in its makeup: From a distance, it appears to be an oversized coin. But up close, look for the individual elements—a paint brush, a shoe, spoons, a license plate and thick coils of rope. An Atlanta theme crops up again in the private dining area. The rear wall of the room is covered with a 3-D, three-panel installation of Georgia pine trees in various sizes and shades of blue. Twinkling lights glitter in the dark sky across the top of the work, but what most viewers will be drawn to first is the silver, saucer-shaped spaceship hurtling out of the far right corner. “It’s edgy, but I think that’s the kind of good art people talk about,” says Kamel. “This is such a popular piece that people are always back here having their pictures taken with it.”

Another wall puts an edge on what appears to be a primitive painting of downtown Atlanta in the 1950s. But look closely: It’s really a composite of images that depict the city’s transition into the future. The helicopters are being chased off the canvas by spaceships; pedestrians on the sidewalk are being crowded out by figures on Segways and scooters. Kamel’s commitment to getting local art into the design meant vetting area artists and then merging their constraints into a construction schedule that revamped the former club space into a dining destination. “The hardest part of this job was managing the artists,” he says with a laugh. “With contractors, you can say, ‘This is our building deadline, period.’ But 5Church you can’t do 1197 Peachtree St N.E. that with artists 30361 who need 404.400.3669 5churchatlanta.com more room to be creative.” n

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Handmade pasta, perfectly cooked steaks & fresh seafood expertly prepared using the �nest ingredients.

REVIEW n LIQUIDS n FRESH BITES

30 REVIEW

INDIAN EVOLUTION Botiwalla serves up Indian street food bursting with bold flavors

Photos: Erik Meadows

For reservations please call 404.844.4810

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

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Indian n o i t u l o Ev I

At Botiwalla, Meherwan Irani opens diners’ minds to a new iteration of Indian food

t used to be that if you wanted Indian food in Atlanta, you headed to either an allyou-can-eat lunch buffet filled with warming trays of curry and rice or an ubertraditional restaurant serving chicken tikka masala and naan. In fact, this is what Indian food has been to most Americans for decades. Thankfully, we’ve begun to understand that, just as there’s more to Chinese than General Tso’s chicken and egg rolls, more to Japanese than California rolls and spicy tuna, more to Thai than pick-your-protein technicolor curries, there is so much more to Indian than the banquet food we’ve come to expect. This revelation is in large part thanks to chefs such as Meherwan Irani who are opening a new strain of restaurants applying serious nuance to “ethnic food,” expanding the boundaries of what a country’s cuisine really means. David Chang did it for Japanese food in NYC; Danny Bowien for Chinese cuisine in San Francisco; Andy Ricker for Thai food in Portland. Irani’s been hard at work demystifying Indian food in the South, first at Chai Pani

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Botiwalla’s TFC (Tandoori Fried Chicken!) Plate is a flavorful mix of lime, yogurt, chili paste and Indian spices.

| STORY: Kate Parham Kordsmeier | | PHOTOS: Erik Meadows |

in Asheville, N.C. (a second location is in Decatur), then at MG Road Bar & Lounge and Buxton Hall Barbecue and now at Botiwalla in Atlanta’s Ponce City Market. “I like to call it the second coming or ethnic food 2.0,” says Michael Files, brand director for Chai Pani. “But the reality is that it isn’t the food that has changed; it’s the American populace’s awareness and ability to wrap their minds around the diversity of a particular genre that has evolved. The food has always been this diverse, just not in America.” No longer. At Botiwalla, opened by two-time James Beard Award winner Irani in April 2016, the counter-service hotspot is anchored around the Indian grill (called sigri) and tandoori oven, showcasing marinated meats on skewers (kababs) cooked on an open flame. The core of the menu revolves around these kababs, with half a dozen options of grilled meats. Choose from paneer tikka, Kashmiri tri-tip, chicken tikka or lamb boti kabab to sandwich into a hot-buttered naan roll with grilled veggies, sweet and crunchy slaw, cooling yogurt and flavor-packed chutney. Truth be told, the rolls all taste nearly identical, and while they’re good (great, even), I’m

much more partial to the less bread-heavy dishes such as the TFC (Tandoori Fried Chicken!) Plate. Made with heritage chicken from Joyce Farms, the bird is marinated in lime juice, yogurt, Kashmiri chili paste and North Indian spices, and its crispy skin and juicy interior gives neighbor Hops Chicken a serious run for its money. Don’t worry, carb enthusiasts: The chicken is served with house-made parathas, a flaky, griddled, ghee-brushed flatbread that is markedly more pliable than naan (and my personal preference). A few pieces of chicken, more of the crunchy slaw and raita (lightly seasoned yogurt to take the edge off the heat), and you’ll be wondering why you ever wasted calories on boring buttermilk fried chicken when flavor like this exists. Likewise, Botiwalla is also inspired by Irani cafés, quirky eateries in India often run by the descendants of immigrants from Iran, like Irani and his family. Both concepts are a seismic shift in how Indian food has existed in Atlanta thus far, particularly in terms of value and presentation. “Value is what a lot of ethnic restaurants are built on, and it’s something we, and other ethnic restaurants, battle all the time—the preconceived notion that we are supposed to

Above: Masala Smashed Potatoes— crispy fingerling spuds tossed with salt, chaat masala, lime juice and cilantro— make for next-level snacking.

Right: The Masala Tri-tip Roll is spicy, with flavors of black pepper, dark soy, curry leaf, ginger garlic and vinegar.

Above: The refreshing Desi Salad packs a lot of crunch with shredded cabbage, carrots, scallions and roasted cashews. Below: SPDP, please! The popular dish combines potato-stuffed puris, crunchy noodles, yogurt and tangy chutneys.

Pillowy, toasted buns brushed with ghee are enough to warrant an order of Lamb Burgers.

serve rice and curry by the truck load for the cost of a bus ticket,” confesses Files. “There has now been a change where we are able to serve quality produce and meats and give a more ‘upscale’ experience, or at least a more curated experience, and actually charge what is reasonable for it.” Considering the thought, quality of ingredients and cooking skill that goes into each dish at Botiwalla, I have to admit I still think they’re undercharging. Take the lamb burgers, for example. The menu description calls this dish “two ground lamb sliders,” but I’ve never been able to finish more than one of the burgers in all three of my visits, as each is the equivalent size of a McDonald’s cheeseburger. Of course, at Botiwalla, factory-farmed meat is swapped for natural, humanely raised lamb, and the burger is made with more than 50 ingredients, including cumin and ginger canoodling with chilies, mint and cilantro, proving, once again, that I’ll never be able to replicate authentic Indian cooking at home (who has the pantry space?). Fortunately, I can get Botiwalla’s burger, which comes on a toasted pav (Indian bread roll) brushed with ghee, for a mere $10.99, and it’s served with desi slaw, green chutney and

rich Maggi ketchup. Pair it with the masala smashed potatoes. Easily the crispiest and most addicting potatoes in the city, they’re tossed with salt and warming masala spices before getting a spritz of zesty lime juice. The potatoes are under the “chaat” (Indian street snacks) section of Botiwalla’s menu, which also includes other favorites from Chai Pani: corn bhel (think of it as an intensely seasoned Indian corn salad, the recipe for which is in my cookbook, Atlanta Chef’s Table, and the signature SPDP, a savory puffed crisp (called puri) brimming with cold, sweet yogurt, chutney, potatoes, onions and cilantro, capped off with crunchy chickpea noodles. Here’s the thing about SPDP. It’s the most powerfully flavored, multi-textured bite I’ve ever tasted. I find all of Irani’s food to be this way—a tantalizing telltale of contrast and complex flavors. The sheer number of things going on in this one bite is positively exhilarating. But—and this is a big but—you have to possess the mouth of a pelican in order to eat the SPDP in one bite. It’s just too large, and so most of my dining companions have found it overwhelming rather than thrilling. Cut the size in half, and they’d be golden. Just as the food is authentic without being traditional, the 1,700-square-foot space

is equally contemporary. Yes, it’s decidedly different from conventional Indian restaurants—for proof, just look for the hipster ads and campy hand-painted signs, which, by the way, were custom-made from Irani family archives—but the Victorian architecture and vibrant visuals are undeniably Indian. Though the 40-seat patio is tempting, I recommend sitting at one of the wooden tables inside the narrow dining room to get the true Indian street experience, complete with the typical sensory overload. Irani has truly captured the Indian captured the Indian joie de vivre—meats sizzling on the grill, intoxicating aromas in the air and palpable energy emanating from the open kitchen. n

BOTIWALLA Ponce City Market, 675 Ponce De Leon Ave. 30308 470.225.8963 botiwalla.com Recommended: Masala smashed potatoes ($3.99), paratha ($1.25), lamb burgers ($10.99), TFC (Tandoori Fried Chicken!) plate ($13.99), desi salad ($10.99) Bottom Line: Botiwalla’s nuanced cuisine proves Indian food is more than curry, with sigri grills and authentic, yet modern, street food that’s as invigorating as the lively space itself.

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Little Trouble Little Trouble is a sexy bar with a cavernous feel tucked away on the Westside. It drew inspiration from “Blade Runner,” so think lots of neon and an Asian-inspired menu (the cold ramen is a standout). Of the Persimmon Collins, Bar Manager Drew Gillespie says, “The subtle sweetness of the persimmon pairs beautifully with the spice of the black pepper-infused vodka.”

PERSIMMON COLLINS Makes 1 Cocktail 2 oz. black pepper vodka ¾ oz. persimmon syrup ¾ oz. lemon juice 2 healthy dashes Champagne vinegar 4 oz. club soda Dash vinegar in an empty Collins glass. Combine vodka, persimmon syrup and lemon juice in shaker and shake. Strain into glass over vinegar, and add ice. Fill to the top with soda water and garnish with a persimmon slice, if desired.

d i u Liq

Gold

This season, give your cocktails the Midas touch by mixing in sweet, sunshineyellow persimmons | STORY & PHOTOS: Lia Picard |

ooking to shake up your cockail routine? Try whipping up a persimmon cocktail. For the uninitiated, this sweet and earthy gem is shaped like a tomato and has the mild sweetness of a berry. Its brilliant hue is sure to make for eye-catching concoctions and satisfy your autumn whimsy. For the best persimmon tipples, we enlisted the help of three local bartenders, who shared their favorite recipes. You can find the fruit at grocery stores throughout the fall season.

Empire State South A Midtown anchor since 2010, Empire State South charms diners with its modern Southern food, cozy atmosphere and bocce court. It also has an impressive cocktail program, thanks to Bar Manager Kellie Thorn. In keeping with the ESS style of putting a new spin on something classic, her favorite persimmon cocktail is the Persimmon Sour.

PERSIMMON SOUR

Makes 1 Cocktail 2 oz. Bols Genever (or gin) ¾ oz. cinnamon persimmon syrup (recipe below) ¾ oz. lemon juice 2 drops cardamom bitters Shake all ingredients with ice. Strain into a chilled

Empire State South

JCT. Kitchen

Little Trouble

999 Peachtree Street N.E. #140, 30309 404.541.1105 empirestatesouth.com

Westside Urban Market, 1198 Howell Mill Rd #18, 30318 404.355.2252 jctkitchen.com

1170 Howell Mill Rd, 30318 404.500.4737 littletrouble.com

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

rocks glass with a large ice cube (if available). For garnish, sprinkle nutmeg over the top of the cocktail.

PERSIMMON CINNAMON SYRUP 1 ripe persimmon, chopped 1 c. water 1/2 cinnamon stick 1/2 c. sugar In a sauce pan, simmer persimmon and cinnamon with water until the persimmon breaks down. Add sugar, stir and simmer until sugar is dissolved. Strain and cool.

JCT. Kitchen The Westside restaurant that launched an empire, JCT. Kitchen opened in 2007 as Ford Fry’s first venture. Along with updated Southern classics and a seasonal menu (don’t miss the vegetable plate) JCT. also offers well-tailored cocktails by Beverage Manager Eduardo Guzman. Inspired by the on-

coming winter season, Guzman dubbed this cocktail The Narwhal.

THE NARWHAL Makes 1 Cocktail 1½ oz. Three Sheets Rum ¾ oz. Persimmon syrup 2 tsp. Lime Juice ½ oz. Calvados (or apple brandy) 2 pinches of freshly ground black pepper Build all ingredients in a shaker with ice and shake. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass over ice.

atlantaeats.com

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FRESH BITES What’s New & Noteworthy in Food

| STORIES: Lia Picard |

On the

e s i R

WHO SERVES H&F BREAD AROUND TOWN:

H&F Bread Co. has a new home on the Westside and plans to keep growing

&F Bread Co. has been one of Atlanta’s favorite bread purveyors since 2008. Now in its new West Midtown location, the brainchild of Linton Hopkins (Holeman and Finch; Restaurant Eugene) and Joe Best is expected to expand even more. We got a behind-the-scenes look at this rising empire and chatted with Robert Alexander, executive baker. Alexander is a familiar face: He joined the team in 2008 as head baker but left after a couple of years to handle the dough at The General Muir. With exciting changes on the horizon at H&F, Alexander has returned for his “dream job.” He explains, “I’m not just baking; I’m also working

with business partners and handling research and development.” H&F started as a neighborhood bakery in a converted Quiznos on the Westside and quickly became a farmers’ market staple. Eight years and two locations later, it now resides in a 50,000-square-foot building. Hamburgers haven’t just made Holeman and Finch famous; they’ve also put H&F bread on the radar of restaurateurs around the country. The biggest growth H&F has seen has been frozen bread sales. While H&F only sells to the Southeast right now, there are plans to sell frozen bread nationally to grocery stores and restaurants. Fun fact: The bakery cranks out 20,000 hamburger buns an hour! Buns are the bread and butter of H&F’s

business, but the bakers turn out 1,400 different products each night. “This variety is something that’s grown out of our attitude of hospitality. When people come to us, we want to serve them what they’re asking for,” says Alexander. This means H&F isn’t baking just one type of hot dog bun; there are also buns with sesame or poppy seeds, and buns of different lengths—you name it. Alexander plans on setting aside 3,500 square feet for an artisanal bakery and enlisting a chef for an adjacent restaurant. Customers can still find their favorites by visiting the bakery’s retail store. It’s a cozy space whose walls are lined with freshly baked breads, croissants, Danishes and local jams and infused sea salt. You can find H&F’s bread at Whole H&F Bread Co. Foods around town, 1500 Marietta Blvd. but there’s something 30318 special about stepping 404.350.8877 hfbreadco.com into this West Midtown bread wonderland. n

Food News n The first intown location of Rize Artisan Pizza + Salads opens this November in Poncey-Highland. Beyond pizza and salads, Rize offers flatbreads, pasta, gelato and sorbets.

130 restaurant and individual competitors. Bluegrass music will keep your feet tapping throughout the afternoon.

rizeartisanpizza.com

n The Canteen, a “micro” food hall from the team behind The General Muir and West Egg, is expected to open in early 2017 in the Tech Square space formerly occupied by The Spence. Look for bagels, a Yalla and Fred’s Meat & Bread outpost and a bar.

n The 14th Chomp and Stomp Festival is Saturday, November 5, in Cabbagetown Park (177 Kirkwood Ave.). Celebrate Atlanta’s “country” neighborhood with chili samples from more than

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

chompandstomp.com

n The Golda Kombucha fermented tea company has named Eric Collins as its new head brewer and doubled the size of its brewery on the east side of town to a 1,000-square-foot space. Soon you’ll be able to find Golda at more than 70 Kroger stores throughout Georgia, allowing Golda to expand beyond the metro-Atlanta area.

goldakombucha.com

Empire State South 999 Peachtree St. N.E. 30309 404.541.1105 empirestatesouth.com Yeah! Burger 1168 Howell Mill Rd. N.W. 30318 404.496.4393 yeahburger.com W.H. Stiles Fish Camp 675 Ponce De Leon Ave. N.E., 30308 678.235.3929 starprovisions.com/ whstilesfish-camp The Shed at Glenwood 475 Bill Kennedy Way S.E. 30316 404.835.4363 theshedatglenwood.com Sotto Sotto 313 North Highland Ave. N.E., 30307 404.523.6678 urestaurants.com

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COVER STORY

e m o H or (Cooking)

s y a d i l o H F

Chef Robert Phalen of One Eared Stag prepares a crowdpleasing holiday brunch at home for his most discerning diners—his family

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

the

s chef and proprietor of Inman Park’s One Eared Stag, Robert Phalen is accustomed to serving up painstakingly prepared dishes for discerning patrons night after night. But with the holidays approaching, we couldn’t help but wonder what one of Atlanta’s most celebrated chefs plates up for his own friends and family during the year’s most celebratory stretch. Phalen was up to the task, creating a spread of simple,

Southern fare with an elevated twist at his cozy home in Decatur and inviting us to pull up a seat at his table. “I love these dishes because they’re simple and homey and the kids can help with most of them,” says Phalen of his menu, which comprised sides like fluffy roe-topped scrambled eggs, tender collard greens and creamy grits. “During the holidays, I don’t want anyone stuck in the kitchen by themselves, so we make simple dishes and use leftovers, like pork roast and collard greens, from the night before. We cook together and make things like grits and scrambled eggs because they don’t need tons of time or attention.”

Phalen says that, while cooking for friends and family can be intimidating, it doesn’t have to be complicated. He recommends keeping things simple, straightforward, easy to eat and with an enhancement here and there. “There are traditional breakfast items, like eggs and grits,” he says of the menu he assembled. “It’s kid-friendly, crowd-pleasing and sticks to a certain script, but I try to add a nice touch here and there, like the trout roe and the duck egg bottarga.” Phalen adds, “The whole point of this meal is to make it easy and fun to prepare. Ingredients like trout roe are flourishes rather than essential cooking ingredients, and anyone can use a dab of atypical ingredients here or there.” Ready to let your inner chef out? Gather your brood and get cooking. “Nothing builds togetherness like cooking a meal as a family,” Phalen says. And as for this off-duty chef, “I’m not focused on creating something new or cutting edge or challenging anyone’s palate; I’m just enjoying time with my kids, my wife and relatives, and hopefully we eat something good at the end.” n

PORK ROAST Serves 4-5

1 tsp. fennel seeds 1 tsp. whole black peppercorns ¼ c. kosher salt plus additional for seasoning ¼ c. sugar 1 7–8-lb. skinless bone-in pork shoulder 1 c. chicken stock ¼ c. apple cider vinegar ¼ c. light brown sugar Black pepper 1 large carrot 2 onions 3 stalks celery 1 apple 1 tbsp. olive oil Crush fennel seeds and peppercorns with a mortar and pestle. Transfer spices to a small bowl; add 1/4 cup salt and sugar. Rub mixture all over shoulder. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Slice onion, carrot, celery and apple; place in the bottom of a deep roasting pan. Place pork on top of vegetables. Add 1 cup chicken stock and apple; cover pan tightly with foil. Transfer pan to oven and roast until meat is very tender, about 4 hours. Remove pan from oven; discard foil. Increase heat to 500 degrees. Stir vinegar and brown sugar into pan juices. Return to oven and roast, watching closely to prevent burning, until pork is browned and liquid begins to reduce, about 12 minutes.

SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH TROUT ROE Serves 4-5 8 farm eggs ¼ c. cream 1 tsp. butter Pinch of salt Pinch of pepper 1 tin trout roe Fresh, chopped chives for garnish Whisk egg and cream together; season with salt and pepper. In a medium hot pan, add butter. When butter is melted, add eggs and continually stir until eggs are light and fluffy. Serve topped with roe and chives.

DUTCH BABY Serves 4-5 6 eggs 1 c. all-purpose flour 3 tbsp. sugar 1/2 tsp. salt Pinch of nutmeg 4 oz. butter 1 c. shredded cheddar 3 medium apples, sliced Maple marshmallows* Prepare a cast iron pan by placing it in a 425-degree oven to heat up. In a blender, combine the eggs, flour, sugar, salt and nutmeg and blend on high until combined. Take the hot cast iron pan out of the oven and add the butter and swirl until fully melted. Add apples and cheddar and then pour over the dutch baby batter. Return the pan to the oven and bake until puffed and golden, approximately 25-30 minutes. Serve with torched maple marshmallows.

*MAPLE MARSHMALLOWS 4 sheets gelatin 1/8 c. maple syrup 8 oz. sugar 1/4 c. water 2 egg whites Bloom the gelatin sheets into cold water. When they are softened, remove from the water, and squeeze out excess water, and then place over the maple syrup. Combine the sugar and the water in a pot with a candy thermometer and boil until the mixture reaches 240 degrees. Place the egg whites in the mixer with a whip attachment and whip to medium peaks. When the sugar syrup reaches 240 degrees, pour in the mixer over the egg whites slowly on high speed until fully added. Add the maple mixture, and whip the marshmallow on high speed until the mixer bowl is no longer hot and the mixture thickens. Pipe the marshmallow onto a sheet pan with sprayed parchment paper and allow cooling for 2-3 hours until set.

“The Dutch Baby is a show-stopper. When you pull it out of the oven and it’s puffed up and browned by the heat, it’s almost like serving a soufflé or Bananas Foster. It gets a lot of oohs and ahs, but it’s relatively simple to make.”

ROBERT PHALEN

GRITS Serves 4-5 1 c. Anson mills rice grits 2 ½ c. water 1 ½ c. milk 1 tbsp. butter 4 oz. duck egg bottarga Salt and pepper to taste Chopped fresh chives for garnish In a medium pot over mediumhigh heat, bring water and milk to a boil. Slowly stir in grits, stirring continuously and thoroughly until well mixed. Turn temperature down to low and slowly cook for approximately 30 minutes. Finish with butter, grated duck egg bottarga and chopped chives.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

e m o H or (Cooking)

s y a d i l o H F

the

Chef Robert Phalen supervises as his sous-chef and son, Oliver, presses fresh orange juice for guests.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Hoorm(Ceooking)

s y a d Holi F

The Phalens’ holiday feast, ready to be devoured.

the

COLLARD GREENS Serves 4-5 12 thick-cut smoked bacon slices, cut into lardons 2 medium-size sweet onions, sliced

2 smoked ham hocks 5 apples, peeled and diced 6 garlic cloves, sliced 6 c. chicken stock 5 lbs. collard greens, washed and torn ½ c. apple cider Salt and pepper to taste

Render bacon in a 10-quart stockpot over medium heat 10 to 12 minutes or until almost crisp. Add onion and sauté 8 minutes; add ham hock and garlic, w and sauté 1 minute. Stir in broth and remaining ingredients. Cook low and slow until desired degree of tenderness is achieved.

Take your holiday table up a notch with gold-toned chargers, glassware and votives. Use crisp, white dishes and a textured runner to strike a casual balance.

VOLSTEAD MAFIA Serves 1 1 oz. rye 1 oz. Pomegranate + Apple Shrub* .25 oz. honey syrup* 1 dash 18.21 Havana&Hide Bitters 6 drops sage oil* Combine all ingredients except sage oil in a cocktail shaker with ice. Close shaker and shake vigorously for 20 to 30 seconds. Strain cocktail mixture into a tall glass (think Collins) over ice, then top with droplets of sage oil.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

*POMEGRANATE + APPLE SHRUB Yields 1 quart

3 local apples, each of a different variety, cored and sliced (do not peel) 1 pomegranate, juiced 1/2 c. white cane sugar 1 c. apple cider vinegar Blend apple slices on high for 1 minute in a blender or food processor. Add pomegranate juice and sugar, and continue to blend for an additional 3 minutes. Strain liquid through a cheese cloth and

add apple cider vinegar. Keeps for 6 months.

*HONEY SYRUP

Yields 1 cup 1/2 c. hot water 1/2 c. honey Stir until honey is completely dissolved. Keeps for 1 month.

*SAGE OIL

Yields 1/2 cup 1/2 c. fresh sage, packed 1/2 c.neutral oil (such as canola or vegetable) Blanch sage in boiling water

for 10 seconds and shock in ice bath until thoroughly chilled. Wring out excess water from sage, first with your hand and then with a paper towel. Place the sage and oil in blender and blend on high for 1 minute. Strain the puree through a paper towel. The straining process will take about 8 hours, so it’s best done as an overnight process. Stays a vibrant green color for about 2 weeks, and then the color starts to dull. Stays good for 1 month.

Happening WHAT’S GOING ON AROUND TOWN

Photo: Gary Emord Netzley

| STORIES: Laura Raines |

CHRISTMAS CLASSIC

ll the iconic scenes are there—the risqué leg lamp, the ridiculous pink bunny pajamas, the scary department store Santa, the triple-dog-dare at the freezing flagpole and even the next door bloodhounds making off with the turkey. But this time, Ralphie and cast sing and dance their way through what has become a favorite holiday classic. “Not every translation of a movie to a musical is successful, but this is one of the best I’ve ever seen,” says Matt Lenz,

director of the national tour of A Christmas Story: The Musical, since 2014. It comes to Atlanta for the first time November 29 through December 4. “Ralphie’s fantasy sequences lend themselves beautifully to musicalization, and this production is so much in the spirit of the story,” adds Lenz. For example: The “You’ll Shoot Your Eye Out” number features Ralphie and pals dressed in formal evening wear and and kicking up their heels in a speakeasy. “The dancing is not dumbed

A CHRISTMAS STORY: THE MUSICAL COMES TO THE FOX down, even though everyone is under 4’7” tall,” Lenz says. What Lenz finds amazing about this production is that kids younger than 12 carry the show with their singing, dancing and acting. “I’ve never seen a show where an ensemble of young people gets to shine in such a spectacular way. These kids are cracker-jack, and their talent and enthusiasm keep it fresh.” Lenz aims to deliver on the expectations of movie-viewers who revisit Ralphie’s predicament every Christmas, as well

as tell the story to those in the audience who may not know it. “I think people are drawn to this story because there’s an innocence and wonderful nostalgia about it. I love that it’s about a family that isn’t perfect,” he says. “During the holidays, we all spend time with family and all our quirky relatives, and this play has a beautiful holiday message. It also has comedy, poignancy and charm.” n atlanta.broadway.com

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Happening

EVENTS

MUSICAL DUO

Jazz superstars Chucho Valdés and Joe Lovano, who have shared the legendary Blue Note Records label, are joining forces to form the Chuco Valdés - Joe Lovano Quintent. The group will play at the Rialto Center for the Arts on November 13.

Coming up...

ANNUAL GRANT PARK MOTHBALL 2016

NOVEMBER 13

November 12 Grant Park

Vernick, who has played trumpet and taught with Lovano, says he comes from the era when great tenor saxophonists each had their own distinct sounds. “You can recognize Lovano’s tone in two notes,” he says. Lovano first appeared on Blue Note in 1985 and has cut more albums for the label than anyone else. He has garnered ample recognition, including earning eight Grammy nominations and winning one in 2000 for “52nd Street Themes.” Cuban-born pianist Chucho Valdés has been a driving force in the evolution of Afro-Cuban jazz for 50 years. The five-time Grammy winner is known for taking traditional Cuban songs and weaving in elements of folk, jazz and classical music to create his own unique fusion. Vernick expects a balanced concert comprising new pieces and audience favorites. “Whatever they play, it will be fabulous,” he says. n

“These are both world-class musicians and highly creative composers. I can’t imagine that we won’t see something innovative on stage,” says Gordon Vernick, associate professor of music and coordinator of jazz studies at Georgia State University.

rialto.gsu.edu

Grab your skipper’s cap and set sail for Grant Park’s annual Mothball on November 12. The event, which started as a neighborhood potluck in the 1970s, has “become a not-to-miss event for residents and nearby neighbors, ages 21 to 90-plus,” says Neighborhood Association President Lauren Rocereta. “We average 400 to 600 people.” This year’s event, whose theme is Fantasea, will include costume and tabledecorating contests, food and live music by Yacht Rock Schooner. Tickets are $30 advance; $40 at the door.

gpna.org/mothball

THE CHILDREN’S CHRISTMAS PARADE December 3 Midtown Atlanta Children’s Healthcare of Atlanta transforms Midtown Atlanta into Santa Claus Lane on Saturday, December 3, starting at 10:30 a.m. Floats, giant helium-filled balloons, marching bands and thousands of spectators lining the route along Peachtree Street from 16th to 5th streets make this the largest holiday parade in the Southeast. The parade is free, but bleacher seats and Breakfast with Santa tickets are available for purchase.

choa.org/parade

ATLANTA CHAMBER PLAYERS CONCERT

VA-HI HOMES TOUR

DECEMBER 3-4

Start your holiday season with a bit of history, architecture and some tasty treats at the Virginia-Highland Tour of Homes on December 3 and 4. What started 22 years ago as a fundraiser to prevent an interstate bisecting the neighborhood has become a favorite community tradition with more than 200 volunteers, explains Robin Ragland, chairperson of the home tour committee. “People like looking at historic houses, seeing the renovations and getting decorating ideas,” she says. “The close proximity between homes makes the tour a pleasant walk, and local restaurants provide food tastes in each home. That makes our tour distinct,” says Ragland. “Last year, we added a driving history tour, and that will be back this year.” The eight homes include a prairie-style Frank Lloyd Wright-

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

December 4 Ahavath Achim Synagogue The Atlanta Chamber Players, which celebrated its 40th anniversary season in 2015-2016, will combine the music of Johannes Brahms (Clarinet Trio in A minor, Op. 114) and Ralph Vaughn Williams for its last concert of the year. Written in 1914, Williams’s Lark Ascending captures images of pastoral English life on the eve of WWI. The afternoon concert will take place at Ahavath Achim Synagogue, with a reception following.

atlantachamberplayers.com

MAGIC TREE HOUSE EXHIBIT Through January 16 Children’s Museum of Atlanta

inspired home, a 1922 bungalow with beautiful gardens along a brick-paved street and a 1915 Craftsman bungalow, the home of Mande Harris and Joe Gasser. The latter was renovated and enlarged six years ago by a previous owner. An antique farm table has its place, as does a dining room light fashioned from the afterburner of a military jet. “I’ve doing some research on the house’s history and plan

to display some old pictures for visitors to see,” says Harris. “All of the money goes back into the neighborhood, and the tour has funded more than $245,000 in grants for our schools, library, parks and non-profit organizations,” says Ragland. “We’re also helping to renovate Fire Station 19, the oldest operating fire station in the city.” n vahitourofhomes.org

Take your kids back in time to experience the first Thanksgiving in 1621 at the Magic Tree House Exhibit at the Children’s Museum of Atlanta. Based on the popular book series by Mary Pope Osborne, the kids can enter the magical, time-traveling treehouse to visit pioneer life on the American prairie, nursing during the Civil War and a feast with the Pilgrims. The exhibit, which opened in September, runs through January 16.

childrensmuseumatlanta.org

Captured

Playtime on the BeltLine

| CAPTURED BY: Julie Rollend |

The story behind the snap: “For lots of toddlers, 10 a.m. on a Sunday feels like mid-day. Our perfect morning in the city started with treats at Dancing Goats Coffee Bar, a walk through Ponce City Market and exploring on the BeltLine.” | INSTAGRAM: @shamrockj | CAMERA: iPhone 6 |

If you’d like submit a photo to appear in Captured, please email captured@17thsouth.com with the photo attached (or provide a download link) and tell us: 1) Your name, 2) where the photo was taken, 3) a brief story behind the photo, 4) your Twitter and Instagram handles and 5) what device you used to shoot the photo.

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