MIDTOWN WESTSIDE VIRGINIA-HIGHLAND INMAN PARK GRANT PARK ANSLEY PARK REYNOLDSTOWN CABBAGETOWN OLD FOURTH WARD PONCEY-HIGHLAND MORNINGSIDE n
MARCH/APRIL 2019 ISSUE 23 | FREE
Authentic Living in the Heart of Atlanta
t s a f k a e Br Is SERVED
A buffet of best a.m. eats, happening brunch spots, morning cocktails and more
Tune-up Your Springtime Beauty Routine The Pair Behind a Thriving Sock Subscription Service
A Cajun Food Culinary Tour
17 Locations in Atlanta brazilianwax.com
CONTENTS MARCH/APRIL 2019 4 Editor’s Letter 5 LATEST
The newest restaurants, shops and other spots to arrive on the scene
Living 8 Shelter
A Midtown resident takes his century-old home from drab to fab
A trio of terrific facials perfect for spring
Get your shop on at one of the nation's largest malls
22 Restaurant Review
16 Out of Town
26 Fresh Bites
A foodie's road trip along the Louisiana bayou
Biting into the South at Wisteria
Beverages by bicycle, delivered right to your mouth
Pizza-making classes, a rockin' shrimp recipe and more
The woman with the most recognizable voice in Atlanta
28 Breakfast Is Served
Two guys who think you are what you wear—on your feet
What to see and do when you’re off the clock
A most eggscellent guide to the most important meal of the day
One man's fight to preserve our city's history
33 MARCH/APRIL 2019
Photos: Sara Hanna: 8, 28.
Welcome TO 17TH SOUTH
’m not one of those people who likes to get up at the crack of dawn. Yes, I’m usually awake and semicoherent by around 7, but it takes me a while to get going. Yet tempt me with a tasty breakfast, and I will shoot out of bed faster than you can say “Flop two and burn the British,” which, for those unfamiliar with diner speak, is code for two fried eggs over easy with a toasted English muffin.
P.O. Box 11633, Atlanta, GA 30355 n 17thsouth.com For advertising rates, call: 404.538.9895 or email: email@example.com
MARCH/APRIL 2019 | ISSUE 23 Serving Midtown, Ansley Park, Morningside, Virginia-Highland, Westside, Old Fourth Ward, Inman Park, Poncey-Highland, Cabbagetown, Reynoldstown and Grant Park
I love all of the foods associated with breakfast so much that I eat them morning, noon and night. And sometimes all three in one day. I don’t discriminate when it comes to sitting down to a stack of fluffy pancakes, flaky biscuits slathered in jam, fresh-from-the-fryer doughnuts or even a simple bowl of fresh fruit. And don’t even think about getting between me and a good breakfast buffet.
Sharon Hallman, server, Bread & Butterfly
Publisher and Founder
Cover photo: Sara Hanna
Chief Financial Officer
Joanne Hayes Sonny Hayes
If you’re as big a fan of breakfast as I am, then you’ll love this month’s cover story “Rise & Shine,” which is all about the most important meal of the day. In it, Jennifer Bradley Franklin dishes on some of Atlanta’s best brunch spots and shares several area eateries’ most popular morning dishes and cocktails, while Lia Picard introduces you to some interesting a.m. treats from around the world. There’s much more for you to consume on the subject starting on page 28, but that should whet your appetite. Elsewhere in the issue, H.M. Cauley speaks with WABE radio hostess with the mostest Lois Reitzes (page 18), Juliette Cheatham chats with the co-founder of a kombucha and coffee delivery company (page 24) and Giannina Smith Bedford offers a peek inside a Midtown resident’s modern makeover of a historic century-old home (page 8).
Photo: The Headshot Truck
So whip up some eggs and bacon, pour yourself a cup of coffee and have a good read.
Jill Becker EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
"Having grown up in the historic city of Philadelphia, I came to Atlanta with a deep appreciation of the past. It’s been a bit of a challenge finding that here, so I’m always happy to share stories from the Atlanta Preservation Center [see page 13] and its efforts to curate those elements that add a sense of place to the cityscape."
ValueStream Media Chief Photographer
Sara Hanna Vice President, Sales & Marketing
Website Development Management
Juliette Cheatham WRITER
"I recently got sick and was on bed rest for almost a month. A lot contributed to this, including not eating enough nutrient-rich food. So I started drinking cold-pressed juice every day, and have noticed drastic improvement in my strength, energy, endurance, digestion, skin and hair. Which is why my interview with the co-founder of juicemaker Kea Beverages [see page 24] was so timely."
Proud sponsor of
Director of Audience Development
H.M. Cauley Contributing Writers
Jennifer Bradley Franklin H.M. Cauley Juliette Cheatham Hope S. Philbrick Lia Picard Claire Ruhlin Giannina Smith Bedford Contributing Photographer
Find us online: 17thsouth.com
Scott I. Zucker
Proud member of
We welcome all contributions, but we assume no responsibility for unsolicited material. No portion of this publication can be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written permission.
YOUR GUIDE TO LIVING WELL IN ATLANTA
Copyright © 2019 by 17th South®. All rights reserved. Printed by Walton Press, Inc. Distributed by Distributech and Distribution Services Group.
Latest OPENINGS & ARRIVALS | STORIES: Claire Ruhlin |
WESTSIDE WARES Asheville-based lifestyle brand debuts in Atlanta
t’s now a thriving lifestyle brand, but Asheville, North Carolinabased East Fork had humble beginnings. Its first iteration was on an old tobacco farm in 2009, when Alex Matisse, great-grandson of famed artist Henri Matisse; his wife, Connie; and potter John Vigeland built a wood-burning kiln and began making pottery. In 2016, the co-founders launched their own line of gas-fired dinnerware made from regionally sourced materials and dubbed East Fork Collection. “That launch and the opening of our flagship brick-and-mortar in Asheville was the big pivot, so to speak, which moved us from a craft business to both a lifestyle brand and a designer and manufacturer of contemporary ceramic dinnerware,” says Connie. “Alex and John were both trained in formal ceramic apprenticeships, which still informs our approach to form and production today.”
The brand’s first retail location outside its home base arrived at the Westside Provisions district in December. Like the sleek ceramic dinnerware it originally became known for, the new Atlanta store is clean and contemporary, layering neutral shades of terracota and warm woods. In addition to East Fork’s line of “unfussy, timeless dinnerware,” expect a curated selection of lifestyle products— everything “from kitchen goods to linens to jewelry,” says Connie. Georgia-sourced items are in stock, too, including small batch clothing from State the Label and handpainted scarves from In & Of. East Fork will also host regular events such as cooking classes and trunk shows. “Our goal is to expand these offerings as we get to know the city and its people better over the next few months,” says Connie. “Our aim is for the space to become a gathering spot for the Atlanta community.” n
Known for its handcrafted ceramic dinnerware, North Carolina-based lifestyle brand East Fork has opened its first Atlanta storefront.
OPENINGS & ARRIVALS
Burning Up Virginia-Highland welcomes boutique Burn fitness facility
hen Jeremy Levison began teaching indoor cycling during graduate school, he noticed a few key issues that needed to be addressed in the fitness marketplace: price (“the cost of working out shouldn’t break the bank,” he says), a variety of class formats and stellar customer service. Enter Levison’s boutique fitness facility, Burn, which opened its flagship Brookhaven location in 2015, followed by one in Buckhead in 2018. This summer, Burn opens a third studio in Virginia-Highland. For a flat rate of $119 a month, customers get access to all three locations, which offer cycling, kickboxing, yoga, sculpt, “Crossburn” and TRX classes. Amenities include lockers, showers and lavender-scented towels. Levison also makes sure to
remain hands-on, teaching classes, learning names and keeping up with clients via email. “I’m an Atlanta native, and Virginia-Highland is such a well-respected and established neighborhood,” says Levison. “The small-town feel and walkability has always made me appreciate the area. I also saw a need in the marketplace—there were few other fitness options in that area—and Burn is thrilled to fill that space.” While much of Burn’s success can be attributed to its service, af-
PCM Premieres Additions to Ponce City Market include in-store eatery and eco-friendly fashion
Amour Vert's shelves are lined with everything from eco-friendly candles to ethically made clothing.
fordability and number of options, Levison says it’s also Burn’s sense of community that’s helped it expand across the city. “Our Burn community is so engaged and supportive of one another, and it’s amazing to see the relationships our guests have built internally,” he says.” Our instructors make everyone in their classes feel welcome and supported, whether it’s their first class or our regulars who come in every day. We look forward to sticking around for years to come.” n
ince Ponce City Market opened its doors in 2014, the historic mixed-use project has become a Midtown fixture, drawing visitors from Atlanta and beyond, and adding new retail and restaurant destinations to its already impressive directory. In January, artisan marketplace Citizen Supply added Likewise, an eatery and bar, to its 12,000-square-foot, second-floor retail space boasting handmade and vintage wares. Likewise offers shoppers a 25-seat lounge and 20-seat bar, where the cocktail program, led by beverage director Ben Richardson, includes creative cocktails such as the Eastwood, made with bourbon, vermouth, sherry and amaro. Chef Jason Jimenez, previously of Kitchen Six and
Homespun, oversees a food menu built around seasonal snacks and shared plates. Also new at Citizen Supply is a weekend pop-up market. Stop by on Saturday and Sunday from noon to 7 p.m. to shop handcrafted items from a rotating roster of brands. Downstairs, PCM has welcomed the first location of the Amour Vert boutique outside its California home. The lofty space carries ecofriendly, ethically made women’s and children’s clothing, as well as home products, cookbooks and curated accessories. While shoppers minimize waste here, they’ll also be contributing to environmental growth, as the label partners with the nonprofit conservation organization American Forests to plant a tree for every T-shirt sold. n citizensupply.com; amourvert.com
Dale Chihuly sculpture makes Atlanta Botanical Garden its forever home Known for his shapely, large-scale glass installations, renowned artist Dale Chihuly debuted his work at the Atlanta Botanical Garden in 2004, after which his Parterre Fountain Installation became a permanent fixture at the Levy Parterre Fountain. A series of his drawings also hang in the garden’s Longleaf restaurant, and his Nepenthes Chandelier remains a fixture of the Hardin Visitor Center. Chihuly’s works returned to the garden again in 2016 during the popular “Chihuly in the Garden” exhibition, after which the artist’s 30-foot-tall, 3,660-watt Saffron Tower sculpture remained onsite on loan from the artist. The Atlanta Botanical Garden recently officially acquired the yellow neon piece, which now permanently resides in the Glade Garden. Visitors can also enjoy views of the piece, which is composed of more than a half-mile of glass and 312 hand-formed neon tubes, from the Canopy Walk. n
SHELTER n BEAUTY n PEOPLE EXPLORATION n OUT OF TOWN
Photos: Sara Hanna
TREASURED ACQUISITION Breathing new life into a classic home
1110 West Peachtree Street, NW Suite 1040, Atlanta, GA 30309 404-215-6520 MidtownMed.com Our multi-specialty practice has provided primary care and dermatology services to adult patients for nearly two decades. Our physicians, Dr. Mark Koralewski, Dr. Jeffrey Rollins and Dr. Mack Rachal are board-certified and extensively experienced, and are committed to serving you with the highest quality of care in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. We accept most insurance plans, are welcoming new patients and offer a convenient location within walking distance of the Arts Center Marta Station and close to major downtown employers.
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Treasured Acquisition A Midtown homeowner thoughtfully transforms a historic adobe, one project at a time | STORY: Giannina Smith Bedford | | PHOTOS: Sara Hanna |
Right: The party-ready backyard features a pool house, saltwater pool and outdoor kitchen complete with a Big Green Egg and pizza oven.
Jarrod Streng and Cari Smith are using their discerning taste to beautify a century-old home near Piedmont Park.
arrod Streng thrives on tackling improvement projects. In business, he invests in, fixes and sells companies, and his penchant for transformation has spilled over into his home life. In 2015, after he’d just finished renovating his Midtown condo, he found
his next residential undertaking: a century-old home near Piedmont Park. This labor of love, however, is one Streng plans to hold on to. “I love this house. I’m never going to sell it,” says the 39-year-old president of a consumer goods company. “It’s understated from the curb, and you
Left: The casually chic family room features lounge-worthy furnishings below a mobile fixture from West Elm. Right: A heavy oval table, Restoration Hardware chandelier and an art piece made with melted wax set an elegant tone in the formal dining room. Below: Streng’s next project is to lighten up the kitchen with Carrera marble countertops.
“I wanted to make sure that I maintained that classical look and used art and accents to reflect my and Cari’s personality and style.” JARROD STRENG
can’t tell how big the house is. The backyard in the summertime is like a resort. When the trees fill in, it’s completely private and secluded.” While on a jog, Streng literally ran into the opportunity to buy the home when he spied a group of “suits” walking into the three-story residence on his favorite street in Midtown. Covered in sweat, he took a detour and stepped through the doors of the 5,100-squarefoot abode, where a brokers-only showing was in progress before it hit the market. Streng talked his way into touring the 6-bedroom, 5.5bathroom dwelling, and that was it. “I loved it and didn’t have any idea that the yard was so expansive,” Streng says of the home that boasts an outdoor kitchen, saltwater pool and pool
Right: Much of the formal living room’s furnishings came from the home’s previous owners, except the British phone booth, which Streng plans to use as a coat closet.
house. “I put an offer in that evening.” Streng has spent the last three years upgrading and personalizing the residence one project at a time with the help of his girlfriend, Cari Smith. “It’s one of the older homes in Midtown, and with that comes quirks. It just needed love,” he says. “It was a classic old home that had not had a lot of money put into it since the late ’90s.” Streng replaced the home’s taupe and brown paint palette with Farrow & Ball grays, off-whites and a few pops of color. He switched out the light fixtures for more modern statement-making pieces from West
Elm, Circa Lighting, Restoration Hardware, Lamps Plus and custom manufacturers. When it came to furnishings, few of the mid-century pieces from Streng’s condo made the transition to the more classically styled home, which boasts elegant hardwoods, original pocket doors, chandeliers and seven fireplaces. Instead, he purchased numerous furnishings—including a heavy oval dining table, reclaimed-wood kitchen table and bench, and family room sectional—from the home’s previous
owners. He then selected antiques, high-end custom pieces and new items from Serena & Lily, Mitchell Gold+Bob Williams, Trinity Mercantile & Design and Room & Board that created balance in both style and budget. From the playful British phone booth and antique Estey piano in the formal living room to the more modern sectional in the family room, it all blends, thanks in large part to the mix of contemporary art
Above: Reynolds, a native of Jamaica, loves how natural light floods the master bedroom.
Above: The basement gym is used often by Streng and Smith, who are both former college athletes. Below: Streng’s man cave and office stands out with bold blue walls and playful presidential art.
Above: Charlie the dog claims his favorite lounging spot at the foot of the bed in the master suite.
Streng handpicked from Deljou Art Group in West Midtown. “It being a historic home, I wanted to make sure that I maintained that classical look and used art and accents to reflect my and Cari’s personality and style,” says Streng. The office “man cave” is a perfect example of Streng’s individuality coming through. Painted in Farrow
& Ball’s bold Ichyra Blue, the room pairs a standalone mid-century modern desk with a custom gold-leafed floating desk created by Jordy Snyder, a Charleston, South Carolina-based craftsman and owner of Formolly. Surrounding the workspace is a collection of playful presidentiallyinspired books, ranging from history to organized crime, which Streng often enjoys while sitting in the Eames chair in the corner—his “first
big purchase when I was 24.” Quite a bit has been transformed with just paint and decor, but sometimes Streng’s vision required more heavy lifting. The master bathroom, for example, was gutted to create a more open layout and refined feel with marble tile, a custom gray vanity with metal inlays (designed by Streng) and an oversized walk-in shower. The showstopper, however, is the wall behind the Victoria+Albert freestanding tub that features two large porcelain tiles joined at the center to create a design reminiscent of a Rorschach test inkblot. “To get the piece installed, they had to use a special fabricator and team of seven people because [the tile] can break like glass,” says Streng. “It was a three-day installation.” Above the tub, a striking chandelier made of solid glass balls—so heavy it had to be structurally reinforced in the ceiling—is just one of the many impressive light fixtures. The air of sophistication continues in the attached master suite, where a wall of custom curtains creates a creative backdrop for the tufted velvet bed from Mitchell
Gold+Bob Williams. The curtains became a solution for the bed placement when Streng realized a king bed didn’t fit in any other spot. The master’s attached sitting area creates a cozy hangout in front of one of the home’s many working fireplaces. “The master suite is really comfortable. We spend a lot of time in there,” says Streng. Streng also renovated the basement, adding new carpet and lighting, and redoing the small bathroom adjacent to the fully equipped gym, sitting area and guest bedroom. “It has a steam room attached,” says Streng, “so for a small space, it was a pretty evasive project in terms of figuring out a design that was still functional but that opened up the space to make it more inviting.” Inspired by a high school locker room, the bathroom features subway and basket-weave tile and industrial light fixtures. The artistic floating wood vanity created by Smyrna-based Taylor Design Shop is unlike anything you’d find in a school locker room, however. “I wanted to find a piece that wasn’t cold and that was floating so it opened [the bathroom] up. It was really closed in before,” says Streng. Streng is currently focused on the
Above and left: The master bathroom is a dreamy creation swathed in marble and chrome with a custom vanity and thoughtful artistic touches.
DESIGN DETAILS Master bathroom contractor
Copper Sky Renovations copperskyrenovations.com Basement bathroom contractor
Atlanta Remodeling & Construction (ARC) atlantarc.net
Bath fixtures and plumbing
relyonpdi.com Master and basement bathroom tile
specialtytile.com Master bathroom chandelier
The Designer Insider thedesignerinsider.com Master bed
addition of a refrigerated wine room and storage area in the basement. And his list of projects continues. This year, he plans to renovate the kitchen to replace the dark granite countertops and slate tile backsplash with white Carrera marble and lighter-hued cabinetry. He also wants to transform the carport into a garage, build out the pool house basement and redo the deck off the
master bedroom. The list of to-dos will probably never end, but rather than racing to the finish line, Streng and his girlfriend are enjoying the process and their home along the way. They also recently adopted a rescue pooch, Charlie, who loves to hang out on the porch in good weather. The pair takes advantage of the spacious floor plan when entertain-
ing guests and hosting family gatherings, including Streng’s relatives from Pittsburgh and Detroit who made the trip to Atlanta for Thanksgiving last year. “That has definitely been one of the highlights of living here,” says Smith. “It is truly a special home, with a story to tell, and you can feel that it radiates love, history and so much charm.” n
Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams mgbwhome.com
Office floating desk
Deljou Art Group
BEAUTY Aviary Beauty & Wellness Collective 659 Auburn Ave. N.E. Atlanta 30312 404.577.2460 aviarybeauty.com Natural Body Spa 1402 N. Highland Ave. N.E. Atlanta 30306 404.872.1039 naturalbody.com/ spas-in-morningside The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta 75 14th St. N.E. Atlanta 30309 404.881.9898 fourseasons.com/ atlanta/spa
Photo: Courtesy Spa at Four Seasons
fine lines or skin congested with breakouts, the goal is restoration and a healthy glow. The products used are available to take home, so clients can keep up the results between facials. Expert insight: “Luzern’s ingredients are very high in antioxidants. I like this facial for the seasonal transition because you have to rebuild skin after winter, when you can be dry and dehydrated, broken out and chapped,” explains Aviary founder/owner Amy Leavell Bransford. “This treatment layers on potent, low-molecular-weight serums that penetrate into the dermis rather than sitting on top of it.”
Bio Organic Facial
Spring Forward Three rejuvenating facials perfect for the season’s transition | STORY: Jennifer Bradley Franklin |
s the Atlanta weather turns from frigid to balmy, our skin might need a tune-up to match the shift in seasons. Here are three facials to help your visage transition from winter’s gray to sparkling spring days.
Ultimate HydraFacial at Natural Body Spa ($275 for 60 minutes)
The HydraFacial system is taking the beauty world by storm (seriously, the HydraFacial World Tour bus even visited Ponce City Market last October, offering free mini-facials to eager guests), and with good reason.
The clinical-style facial immediately delivers visible results. All of the steps, from cleansing and exfoliation to extractions and saturating the skin with peptides and hydration, are performed using a wand connected to a HydraFacial machine that delivers the precise amount of product at every step. For a heightened experience, the Ultimate HydraFacial includes lymphatic drainage and LED red and blue light therapy (red to stimulate collagen, blue to ward off bacteria). Expert insight: “Spring is the perfect time for this kind of exfoliation. The cool thing about the HydraFacial is that you get the experience of microdermabrasion without the redness,” says Natural Body Spa founder Cici
Coffee. “It’s a good lunchtime skin renewal facial. You can go right back to the office, and you’ll look like you came off of a vacation.”
Luzern Serum Layering Facial at Aviary Beauty & Wellness Collective
(from $150 for 60 minutes)
With its new facial, launched in January, this Old Fourth Ward studio became the first in Georgia to carry the powerhouse Swiss organic skincare line, Luzern. The hour-long facial is customized, and estheticians can add up to eight serums to address each client’s unique concerns. Whether you’re struggling with dehydration from a winter’s worth of indoor heat,
at The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta (from $170 for 50 minutes)
The spa tucked into the lobby floor of this luxe Midtown hotel feels like an oasis of calm before even settling into a treatment room. Once you do, this gentle, effective facial uses the Nelly De Vuyst BioTense organic skincare line that’s so exclusive, only three spas in the United States carry it. Every element of the advanced treatment is aimed at reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and boosting radiance. Spa junkies will likely be fascinated with the gommage (a French word meaning “to erase”), a grit-free exfoliating gel that, when massaged into the skin, removes toxins and environmental pollution in under three minutes. Expert insight: “We begin with
a prebiotic cleanse that facilitates the glow, followed by a birch-based gommage,” explains lead esthetician Kathleen “Kat” Smart. “The lymphatic massage reduces inflammation with warming lemon and ginger. To wrap up this luxurious, eco-friendly experience, we tighten the skin with serums and creams packed with exotic antioxidant extracts such as Acmella oleracea, a natural alternative to Botox.” n
the Past A lifelong love of history and architecture inspires Boyd Coons to fight for Atlanta’s heritage
| STORY: H.M. Cauley |
s early as 3 years old, Boyd Coons can remember being impressed by architecture. “My grandmother in Atlanta had also lived in Savannah, and her friends started looking for ways to save old Savannah,” recalls Coons. “I remember going there to visit, and it made a big impression. We also went around to family places in Americus and other sites in the South, and the history I saw there meant a lot to me. As I saw more and more of it being eroded in the 1960s and ’70s, I was drawn to find a way to preserve it.” Coons has been doing just that for 19 years as the executive director of the Grant Park-based Atlanta Preservation Center (APC), a position he’s held longer than anyone since the nonprofit was formed 40 years ago. It’s a job his early encounters, education and professional experience prepared him well for. The seventh generation of his family to live in Atlanta, he earned an undergraduate degree from the University of Florida long before there were preservation programs in place. But after heading his own residential design business for 10 years, he entered the architectural history and preservation master’s program at the University of Virginia. After returning to town, he taught architectural design and history at The Art Institute of Atlanta and did preservation consulting work until the APC found itself in need of a leader. “The Preservation Center was an idea from people who saw a need for a local organization to advocate for
Above: The APC’s Phoenix Flies event will showcase the rebirth of several historic buildings, including the Clermont on Ponce de Leon. Left: Boyd Coons has led the Atlanta Preservation Center longer than anyone in its 40-year history.
preservation within Atlanta and to identify specific problems and opportunities Atlanta had,” he says. “This was in the 1970s, when people were tearing down everything in sight. The fight to save the Fox [Theatre] was the last straw. There was a sense that Atlanta was losing a lot of its architectural cultural heritage.” Through the years, the APC has launched educational programs for kids, created walking tours of significant neighborhoods and interceded on behalf of endangered buildings. Under Coons’ leadership, the organization gained its first permanent headquarters in 2001: the Grant Mansion, a property dating to 1856 that’s been gradually restored to reflect its original beauty. The APC has also worked to have significant neighborhoods protected with historic designations, developed preservation principles for the BeltLine and fought to save structures such as Ivy Hall,
Right: Efforts by the APC helped Westview Cemetery earn a spot on the National Register of Historic Places.
the Midtown mansion believed to be one of the city’s oldest examples of Queen Anne styling. Most recently, it supported efforts to have the Westview Cemetery in southwest Atlanta listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Opened in 1884, the almost 600-acre site is the final resting place of Coca-Cola founder Asa Candler, Mayor William Hartsfield and author Joel Chandler Harris, as well as Coons’ great-grandparents and several other relatives. In 2003, the APC launched The Phoenix Flies, an annual celebration of the city’s cultural and architectural heritage that opens area historic sites and offers lectures at no charge. “There are so many great successes that we try to show off,” says Coons. “But this year, we’re also honoring individuals who have put their businesses into historic buildings, such as Ponce City
Market and the [Hotel] Clermont, and preserved them. People will be able to see what these individuals have done and how our city has a richness and a sense of place because of them.” The Phoenix Flies events also honor the APC’s core mission. “It’s about education and advocacy, for creating an understanding of what is valuable and how it contributes to our quality of life,” says Coons. “We do that by protecting Atlanta’s culturally significant landscapes, structures and organizations—those things that have always made Atlanta a unique place.” n From March 2 through 24, the Atlanta Preservation Center and more than 100 partner organizations present The Phoenix Flies with free lectures, tours and discussions. For details, visit atlantapreservationcenter.com.
Photo: Joel Pitra for Candytopia
When you need a break from perusing its 500+ stores, Mall of America offers plentiful distractions, such as the visiting Candytopia exhibit (above), where all of the art is made out of, you guessed it, candy.
Shopping Mecca The Mall of America is a great winter destination. Really! | STORY: Hope S. Philbrick |
n Bloomington, Minnesota, it’s 70 degrees year-round. Inside the Mall of America, that is.
There’s no need to wait for summer to head to the country’s most famous shopping mall. If you go now, you can enjoy the best travel prices. And you don’t have to worry about the cold and snow, because you can fly direct from Atlanta to Minneapolis and take the light rail straight into the mall: Train tickets start at $1.25, and you never even have to step outside! Mall of America is one of the largest shopping and entertainment complexes in North America and the Midwest’s number one tourism attraction. Since opening in 1992, it has continually expanded to remain a one-stop destination with In 2021, Mall of America will welcome a huge $230 million waterpark.
everything you need for a great vacation all under one roof. Minnesota has no sales tax on clothing or shoes, a fact that helps lure more than 40 million visitors a year to the mall. It boasts more than 500 stores; if you were to spend just 10 minutes in each one, it would take you more than three days to complete your visit. There’s something for every shopper, from fashion to tech, toys to housewares, art to sporting goods. Familiar favorites such as Macy’s, L.L.Bean and Barnes & Noble are intermingled among unique shops such as Savage X Fenty (Rihanna’s line of lingerie), Alpaca Connection (100 percent alpaca products) and Vikings Locker Room (official NFL team gear). Buy a Mall of America coupon book for $9.95 for savings at hundreds of stores. But great shopping isn’t the only
reason to hit the mall. There are more than 50 dining options, from familiar chain restaurants to one-of-a-kind eateries offering everything from casual snacks to multi-course gourmet meals. The seven-acre Nickelodeon Universe theme park boasts 27 rides and attractions, including Barnacle Blast, the longest indoor zipline in North America. Rick Bronson’s House of Comedy hosts national acts. Sea Life Minnesota Aquarium is home to 19 species of sharks. The 18-hole Moose Mountain Adventure Golf mini-course has an old-timey feel and whimsical Northwoods design. Solimar Spa offers pampering treatments. FlyOver America is a simulated flight experience. The Escape Game presents four different brain-teasing challenges. The new 14-screen CMX Cinemas boasts highend decor, cutting-edge audio tech-
Above: Worked up an appetite with all that shopping? Mall of America boasts 50-plus places to eat and drink.
nology, big reclining seats, gourmet dining plus wines and handcrafted cocktails. There’s even a chapel that’s hosted more than 8,500 weddings. For a limited run in March 2019, the touring exhibit Candytopia will open its first Midwest location at the mall. The candy-coated experiential adventure features larger-than-life interactive art installations and sensory experiences, all made out of sweet treats. If you go to Mall of America, be sure to bring your walking shoes. The property sprawls over 78 acres— the equivalent of 347 Statue of Liberties, 43 Boeing 747s or 9 Yankee Stadiums. And there’s land available to nearly double the size over the next 10 years. Construction is about to begin on a new waterpark slated to open in fall 2021. The $230 million world-class, fully enclosed water adventure will be connected directly to the mall and will create a tropical oasis with immersive discoveries for all ages and adventure levels. You can even stay overnight without leaving the grounds, as both the Radisson Blu and JW Marriott Minneapolis are attached to the mall. Stay at either property and enjoy package pick-up service, the ultimate shopping convenience. When it comes to entertainment options, it’s easy to see that the Mall of America rivals that of some small towns. n
Living OUT OF TOWN
Above: Bounty from the Lafourche Parish bayou is showcased in some of the area’s best seafood dishes. Left: Anthony Goldsmith, grandson of renowned Cajun cook Alzina Toups, owns the Kajun Twist in Galliano.
Leave the big city behind and discover authentic cooking along the Louisiana bayou | STORY: H.M. Cauley |
ndoubtedly, New Orleans is home to some remarkable restaurants representing a range of culinary styles. Many have built reputations around Louisiana traditions, from beignets to red beans and rice. After exploring the Crescent City’s dining options, foodies who want to get up-close and personal with Cajun cooking might want to head about 45 minutes southwest to Lafourche Parish. This long, narrow slice of land is bisected by the bayou that runs from Thibodaux down to the Gulf of Mexico at Port Fourchon. From those two bodies of water come the ingredients that star in the local cuisine—shrimp, crabs, oysters and crawfish—that local chefs and family cooks alike have been finding delicious ways to fix for generations. The influences of several cultures come together to produce such signature dishes as gumbo, étouffée and jambalaya, but don’t rule out trying alligator or some wild game. To help foodies fond of getting off the beaten path, the area’s tourism authority has created the Cajun Bayou
Food Trail to showcase 15 local eateries and a half dozen festivals where visitors will find not only authentic flavors but hear stories about how recipes have been passed down through the years and how everyone loves to eat and cook. Here are a few highlights in two of the cities along the way.
Thibodaux Bubba’s II PoBoys, a local fixture since 1996, is a one-story roadside restaurant noted for, as the name implies, its po’boys stuffed with ingredients from bacon-wrapped shrimp to the ham, turkey, bacon and cheese that make up the Poonie’s Hot Club. At peak times, diners are queued up
to grab a checkered-tablecloth table in one of the several rooms packed with sports and local memorabilia. Flanagan’s is a hot spot for those who savor Sunday brunch. That’s when the regular menu of seafood specialties such as broiled, blackened or grilled redfish and pasta topped with oysters or shrimp give way to eggs with crab cakes, topped with crawfish sauce or stuffed with seafood. And every dish is served to the tunes of a jazz combo.
One of the stops along the Food Trail is Fremin’s in downtown Thibodaux, where the menu features a towering Seafood Napoleon.
A retro ’50s look with a black-andwhite checked floor and pink laminate-topped tables is why Kajun Twist bills itself “the original Kajun diner.” The favorite fried Cajun goodies are here, along with a lineup of burgers, fried chicken and roast beef po’boys.
The menu at Rose’s Café has featured family favorites for more than three decades, including red beans and rice with smoked sausage, seafood and okra gumbo, and platters piled with shrimp, oysters, crawfish and crab patties. But breakfast is as much a draw as lunch and dinner for early birds who want the same ingredients in their omelets. Dig into chicken and waffles, a big breakfast sandwich or the signature cinnamon roll French toast. Eating at all of the designated trail stops might take more than a long weekend. Fill the time between meals with a chartered fishing excursion; a visit to Chine’s Cajun Net Shop, where the nets are still made by hand; a stop at the Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center, which chronicles the history and cultures of the area; or a tour of the historic home of E.D. White, the state’s only U.S. Supreme Court justice. And you can always hop aboard a boat and head out onto the bayou to feed a few alligators. Before you go, visit the Cajun Bayou Food Trail website and download a “passport” to keep track of all the good eating. Those who make at least seven stops are awarded a T-shirt announcing the accomplishment of having explored a bit of the deliciously different side of the Bayou State. n Louisiana Cajun Bayou Food Trail lacajunbayou.com/foodtrail
Culture HEADLINERS n CREATORS
PUT A SOCK ON IT Two Atlantans create fashion for your feet
Atlanta Radio Lois Reitzes has been a fixture of the local airways for 40 years | STORY: H.M. Cauley |
he calls 2018 her “Jack Benny year,” referencing the old-time comedian’s joke about being stuck at 39. But Morningside resident Lois Reitzes made it past that hurdle and is now marking her 40th year on Atlanta radio. Since 1979, Reitzes has been an anchor on WABE 90.1 FM, one of the city’s local NPR stations. That longevity provides the expertise to talk about the constantly changing landscape of local radio. “It’s such a different world from when I began,” she says. “There were three commercial television networks and PBS then. Now, the choices just seem infinite.” One of the biggest changes came in
2015 when WABE dropped its daytime format of playing the classical music that was Reitzes’ specialty. Having studied at the Indiana University Jacobs School of Music, she is wellversed in the nuances of the genre, and while she can still be heard enlightening audiences on the station’s HD channel, she’s spent the last four years hosting City Lights, an interview program that explores the city’s arts and culture scene. “The change has been drastic, even more than I could have imagined, and not only for the format going to news and talk,” she says. Reitzes admits it took about a year to find her footing in the new format. “I wasn’t exactly certain where I fit in, but I have to credit my boss, Christine Dempsey, for loving my on-air manner and wanting to
hear more of me. She also wanted the show to be all local, even if it featured national or international authors or artists coming to Atlanta.” In this stage of her on-air career, Reitzes relishes the chance to showcase the area’s arts scene. “I never imagined I could feel as fulfilled and rewarded in the new format as I do,” she says. “But I’m loving it.” What’s harder to love is the workload. Preparing background info, listening to an artist’s music or reading an author’s latest book for a one-hour program that airs five days a week is an enormous assignment. “I never thought I was coasting for the first 35 years, but the amount of prep that goes into one interview [for this show], well, I hadn’t any idea I’d be working this hard at this stage of my life and yet feeling more gratified than I ever have,” says Reitzes, who has sat in front of the mic with everyone from photographer Annie
Leibovitz to Alvin Ailey artistic director Robert Battle to cookbook author Anne Byrn. “Much of the interview has to be live, and that was very scary at first,” says Reitzes, “but I learned as I went along how to prepare for a guest’s not showing up or only having seven minutes worth of answers in a 20-minute segment.” What’s most startling for Reitzes after 40 years is the way people now consume radio. “Streaming and podcasts have been revolutions for broadcasting,” she says. “It’s great for consumers to have access to such an enormous array of content, and they can listen when it’s convenient for them on anything from a telephone to a little tablet to a 65-inch screen.” Reitzes not only welcomes the new options, she’s happy to be a part of them. “At 65, I’ve acquired enough experience and wisdom to realize there’s still so much more to learn and explore,” she says. “I pinch myself every day, and I am not exaggerating.” n
Listen to Lois Reitzes on City Lights at 11 a.m. and 8 p.m. Monday through Friday on WABE 90.1 FM or online at wabe.org.
k c SonoIt A shared entrepreneurial spirit launched a footwear business for two lifelong friends | STORY: Lia Picard |
tefan Lewinger and Futhum Tewolde didn’t grow up dreaming about making socks, but for the two founders of Sock Fancy, it was inevitable that they’d go into business together one day. They grew up in the same neighborhood in Athens and have known each other since they were 6 years old. Stefan Lewinger (left) and Futhum Tewolde
“I would say socks were not really in the Rolodex at the time, but we had always kind of been each other’s springboard, if you will,” says Lewinger. Adds Tewolde: “When we were younger, we would have these small businesses like dog walking in our neighborhood.” In 2013, they aimed bigger and launched Sock Fancy, a subscription company based in Cabbagetown. Sock Fancy customers looking to up their footwear game can choose among several subscription options, including one pair per month for $11 and two pairs or a six pack for $9.50 each. Options include crew, no-shows or a mix. Each time you receive a subscription box, the sock pattern is a surprise, but it’s guaranteed to have a colorful, eye-catching pattern. “Our main goal early on was to
change the way people thought about buying socks,” explains Lewinger. “And the best way for us to do that was through the subscription method, which at the time was pretty new to retail.” Companies such as Dollar Shave Club had launched, but Lewinger and Tewolde found that when it came to the mundane task of purchasing socks, most shoppers still had to go to big-box or department stores and stand in line. “We saw there was a lot of compromise involved in the industry at the time,” says Lewinger, “and we felt like we could make not only a really great pair of socks—something that’s fun to wear, really durable, really soft—but that the subscription model makes the experience way more useful and way more exciting.” The idea came to them while they were roommates in Virginia-
Highland. Lewinger had just graduated from the University of Georgia, and Tewolde was wrapping up at Georgia State University. They drew inspiration for their socks’ patterns from life itself. Explains Lewinger: “I was standing behind some dude at El Mexicano who had on a really loud shirt, and I figured some iteration of that would be an awesome sock.” Their house became their headquarters, and the pingpong table in the dining room became their warehouse fulfillment center, with boxes stacked to the ceiling. “We were like persona non grata at the post office in VirginiaHighland,” says Tewolde, referring to their frequent drop-offs. “They still hate us,” laughs Lewinger. USPS’s chagrin aside, Sock Fancy grew out of the house and into a brick-and-mortar location on Memorial Drive that serves as a warehouse, office and storefront.
They’ve even collaborated with brands such as Chick-fil-A and King of Pops for customized socks and have created versions for events such as the Discovery Channel’s Shark Week. Lewinger and Tewolde are excited for the things to come. “We’re going to be opening up the top of the funnel a little more,” says Lewinger. “People who would never subscribe to anything in their life, even if it was going to save their life, we’re going to open it up to them to be able to purchase one-off unique experiences, whether that’s packs or special editions, that kind of stuff.” For now, those hesitant to commit to a subscription can swing by their Sock Fancy storefront and 670 Memorial Dr. S.E. purchase some Atlanta 30312 snazzy socks 470.440.3591 sockfancy.com to add to their wardrobes. n
Indulge 5K WALK » FUN RUN » FAMILY FESTIVAL » FOOD TRUCKS
REVIEW n LIQUIDS n FRESH BITES
Sunday, April 28, 2019 12–4 p.m. The Home Depot Backyard Register online at hungerwalkrun.org an event of:
A MODERN CLASSIC MENU
Photos: Erik Meadows
Southern comfort takes on a new meaning at Wisteria Restaurant
Above: Skillet-fried chicken with collard greens and corn pudding ... yum! Below: The addition of broccoli rabe in the mac and cheese will make you wonder why you haven't always been eating it that way.
n r e d Mo
Classic Menu Dig into contemporary Southern flavors at Wisteria
n my husband’s memory, Wisteria Restaurant stands out as the place where he first ate skate wing. And his mouth still waters at the memory of its buttery flakiness. I later learned at least part of the reason why skate wing isn’t common to Atlanta menus. “It’s hard to clean and deal with, so you don’t see it a lot,” says Wisteria’s chef/owner Jason Hill. The prep takes time, but the entrée remains popular, so it stays on the menu. At a recent dinner, my husband planned to order it again, but after perusing the menu, he opted instead for the Low-Country Seafood Stew. One bite was all it took to banish any doubt about the last-minute substitution. He gobbled up the eye-popping bowlful of clams, mussels,
Left: The cornbread that comes atop the Low-Country Seafood Stew is there to help you sop up every savory bite.
| STORY: Hope S. Philbrick | PHOTOS: Erik Meadows |
crawfish, calamari, salmon, andouille sausage, corn on the cob, potatoes and peas, then sopped up every last drop of the savory broth with the accompanying cornbread. I felt transported to the coast with each spoonful I snuck from his dish. That’s not the only low country classic on the menu, which is no surprise given that Hill graduated from Johnson & Wales University in Charleston. Shrimp and grits is among the options, and Hill’s rendition tops Adluh StoneGround Grits with sautéed peppers and onions, plentiful succulent shrimp and a moderately spicy shrimp broth. Each bite is a satisfying blend of comfort and complexity. For a meal that sticks with the coastal theme, start with the Charleston-style jumbo lump crab cake appetizer. The patty is dense with sweet meat and served atop a scrumptious roasted corn and pepper succotash alongside
a crisp basil chip. The app is large enough to divvy up if you’re satisfied with a few bites, but if after one taste you decide it’s too good to share, no one will judge as long as you quickly order another for your dining companion. On a subsequent visit, my husband and I started with classic oysters Rockefeller. He enjoys oysters in all forms, but I prefer Wisteria’s preparation: smothered in cream, leeks, bacon and Parmesan, then baked on the half shell. Add a cocktail, and I enjoy oysters even more. The drinks at Wisteria are consistently delicious, whether you order a classic cocktail or a seasonal creation. The Plum Cooler impressed my palate enough to order another, but the bartender free-poured ingredients rather than measured, so the second one wasn’t as balanced as the first. Perhaps it’s best to try a different drink instead of the same one back
Above: The Angus burger with sweet potato fries is a Bantam best seller. Below: The Bantam chicken sandwich gets a kick from jalapeño aioli.
Above: If you think you don't like skate wing, Wisteria's version will make you think again. Right: The bread pudding with bourbon sauce is a perfect end to a perfect meal. Below: Enjoy a cocktail with your meal? Give the Plum Cooler a try. Above: The grilled pork tenderloin, thoughtfully brined for 24 hours, is one of Wisteria's top sellers.
to back. You can’t go wrong with the Whiskey Rebellion, a sip-worthy blend of Redemption Rye whiskey, Pimm’s No. 1, fresh lemon and sugar. Since opening in 2001, Wisteria has worked with local and regional farmers to source its ingredients, and salads such as the seasonal butternut squash and Lacinato kale (a variety popular in Tuscany) really show off fresh produce. When I ordered my salad with a side of mac and cheese, the waiter exclaimed, “I like where this is going.” Hill tosses broccoli rabe into his baked version, which adds a bitter note that cuts through the creamy cheese. It’s a yummy twist that makes you wonder why everyone else isn’t doing the same thing. The grilled pork tenderloin and Iron Skillet Fried Half Chicken are the restaurant’s two most popular entrées. “They’ve been our top sellers forever,” says Hill. When he removed them from the menu once, the regulars complained, so the dishes will remain, though their sides may vary to reflect the season. “People want what they’re used to,” he says. One bite of the tenderloin was all I needed to become a huge fan myself. It’s brined for 24 hours, rubbed with molasses and grilled, and when I ordered it, it was served with a sweetpotato purée, Georgia apple walnut relish and some fried onions. Savory and sweet with a hint of bitter thanks to the molasses, the meat was juicy and cooked to perfection. Even if you’re feeling stuffed or dining on a budget, you should make room for dessert. Order one for $5 or a trio for $14. My husband and I shared the bread pudding with bourbon sauce—as warm and comforting as a hug. The vanilla, caramel, oak and bourbon notes wonderfully pushed through the sugar-yeast flavors. Though the serving is small, we each enjoyed
Meet chef/owner Jason Hill What’s your favorite thing on the menu? That’s such a hard one. It depends on the time of day. I love our Caesar salad, sea scallops, fried calamari, mac and cheese, pork tenderloin and skate wing. What takes the longest to prepare? Our veal stock takes three full days from start to finish.
What do you most look forward to cooking each spring? Beautiful purple okra. I’m a big fan of okra. My grandmother always cooked it, and I could eat it like candy all day long. What don’t you like? Salmon. I know it’s good, but I’ve cooked it for more than 30 years now, and it’s a standard food that I just don’t like. Other than that, I like every fish.
multiple bites, which proved to be the perfect amount to end the meal on a sweet note. Wisteria remains a cozy neighborhood restaurant, even as it’s evolved along with Inman Park over the years. “We try to stay true to the neighborhood,” says Hill. “When I first opened on this side of town, there were two or three other restaurants. Now there are about 100 and more on the way, so the competition has changed, but I’m still doing fine.” That’s great news, as is the fact that Wisteria will start serving brunch sometime this year. n
WISTERIA RESTAURANT 471 N. Highland Ave., 30307 404.525.3363 wisteria-atlanta.com Recommended: Jumbo lump crab cake ($14); skate wing ($27); shrimp and grits ($26); Low-Country Seafood Stew ($27); grilled pork tenderloin ($25); bread pudding ($5). Bottom line: Wisteria serves upscale Southern fare at competitive prices. The servers are friendly, knowledgeable and aim to please. The cozy dining room offers a casual, neighborly vibe that can sometimes get loud. Valet service simplifies the parking.
s k n Drion Demand
hen I worked in accounting, I found myself suffering without a creative outlet,” says Keaton Hong, who ditched his career as a CPA to co-found the mobile drink company Kea Beverages. He says while attending the University of Georgia he really got into brewing beer and cooking, but that after graduating, his passions were usurped by long hours spent in the office of a Big Four accounting firm. Hong’s longing to reestablish his artistic drive led him to link up with Kea’s other half, Sean Keating. The idea for a beverage company began to brew, so to speak, out of their shared passion for experimental fermentation. Keating, a longtime member of Atlanta’s food and beverage industry, “is completely unstructured
Sean Keating (left) and Keaton Hong
A mobile beverage company delivers kombucha and more via pedal power | STORY: Juliette Cheatham |
and invents a lot of stuff you have to be brave or stupid enough to try,” jokes Hong. “Between the two of us, it’s the perfect mix of our previous professional backgrounds.” What started off with a single bike-powered beverage cart with a handful of rotating taps has transformed into a full-scale juice delivery business, as well as a mobile beverage catering company for anything from corporate events to album release parties. One of the drinks they concoct is kombucha, which originated in China around 220 B.C. but has seen sudden and monstrous growth in the past decade. Offering probiotic benefits that encourage gut bacteria diversity and aid digestion, the healthconscious brew now occupies up to a third of the refrigerated beverage shelf space in Whole Foods. “Everything is trending toward being more aware and healthier,” says Hong. “To our generation, being able to read the
ingredient list, understanding what you’re consuming and even [knowing] where the ingredients are coming from has become a priority.” Aside from kombucha and probiotic sodas, Kea Beverages also makes nitro coffee, a smooth and creamy nitrogen-infused caffeinated option with a look and keg-storage function redolent of Guinness on draft. Nitro coffee varietals differ based on Hong and Keating’s ever-changing brewing experiments, but they’ve been infused with everything from cherries to dried coconut. “It’s always shocking when I meet someone who doesn’t drink coffee,” says Hong. “Although it’s the most expensive product to produce on our end, it’s in high demand.” So much so that Kea launched its nonprofit initiative, Sip and Support, last October. Nitro coffee taps are placed in retail stores, with 75 percent of the net proceeds going to local philanthropic groups. “We’re
currently supporting Chattahoochee Riverkeeper through donations at Ponce City Market’s Mountain High Outfitters and Lift Up Atlanta through donations at Madabolic Inc.” The Kea team is currently juicing and fermenting in the shared commercial kitchen Prep, though Hong admits he’s craving a private production space. “Our real goal is to work towards opening a kombucha and probiotic brewery. We want to be the go-to healthy hangout spot.” If you’re lucky, you might happen upon the Kea Beverages mobile cart on the BeltLine, in Piedmont Park, at an Atlanta United tailgate or at a local farmers market. However, if you want a more reliable juice plug, you can order online at keabev.com or through their Instagram @kea.atl for bike delivery. You can also pop over to Hampton+Hudson, Tiny Lou’s at the Hotel Clermont or Gauc Y Margys to get gulping. n
A SEASONAL BITE Bully Boy recently opened in Inman Park, bringing a restaurant with coastal flair to the BeltLine. Get a taste of the sea at home, thanks to this tasty recipe from chef Michael Bertozzi. bullyboyatl.com
FRESH BITES What’s New & Noteworthy in Food | STORIES: Lia Picard |
Photo: Heidi Geldhauser-Harris
Family Affairs Chefs share how they celebrate the springtime holidays
GEORGIA WHITE BBQ SHRIMP Serves 4
aster and Passover, beginning April 19 and 21 respectively, look a little different for chefs and restaurateurs. The hustle and bustle of the food industry means that sometimes they have to get creative about when they celebrate and how. To get the scoop, we chatted with two area restaurant veterans: John Castellucci, executive chef of Bar Mercado in Inman Park, part of the growing Castellucci Hospitality Group (CHG); and Alon Balshan, chef/owner of Alon’s Bakery & Market in Morningside. For Castellucci, holidays have been a serious matter since childhood. The youngest of three siblings, he recalls that before the expansion of CHG, Easter was always celebrated at his parents’ home in Johns Creek. “Growing up, we would always use Sugo [the first CHG restaurant] as our kitchen for the holidays,” he says. He recalls how they would do mini Top Chef-style challenges. “We would run in and have our own assignments,” he says. “We’d go, ‘Hey, we got 45 minutes. Everybody run!’” Things look a little different now that the Castelluccis run a mini empire. “Unfortunately, family gettogethers are few and far between,” he says. Still, the clan makes an effort to convene for major celebrations, and Easter is no exception. Instead of everyone going to Johns Creek, though, the holidays are spread out among the siblings’ homes, and now the next
generation of Castelluccis is part of the mix (Fred, the oldest sibling, has a daughter). One thing is certain: There are always meatballs prepared by the Castellucci patriarch, Federico. Balshan celebrates Passover. As a child in Israel, he looked forward to his mother’s cooking and the gathering of relatives. “I remember as a child, waiting for Passover because there was all of the family,” he says. “I grew up in a small house, so 12 was a lot of people.” One of his mother’s signature dishes was stuffed artichokes. “It was fresh artiAlon Balshan has fond food memories from Passover as a child in Israel.
chokes, not in a can or whatever. It was always fresh.” At Alon’s, customers can get a taste of his favorite Passover dishes via its holiday menu, deep with festive offerings. “Of course, we have a flourless cake and a brisket,” he says. “And lots of chopped liver.” n
Alon’s Bakery & Market 1394 N. Highland Ave. N.E. Atlanta 30306 404.872.6000 alons.com Bar Mercado 99 Krog St. N.E. Atlanta 30307 404.480.4866 barmercadoatl.com
In medium pot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Sauté onions and garlic until onions are translucent. Add remaining ingredients, bring to a simmer and allow to reduce by half. Strain and reserve liquid. SHRIMP
2 tablespoons canola oil 9 head-on Georgia white shrimp 1 cup barbecue base (recipe above) 4 tablespoons butter, cubed ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 4 tablespoons scallions, chopped In 12-inch sauté pan, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add shrimp and sauté until shrimp turns a pinkish hue. Add barbecue base to pan and continue cooking until shrimp are completely pink and cooked through, about 4 minutes. Add butter and swirl the pan to incorporate into the sauce. Finish with lemon juice and garnish with scallions.
Food News n Popular Marietta doughnut shop Doughnut Dollies has opened a second location on the Westside.
Windy City now that Gino’s East has an outpost in Poncey-Highland.
Doughnut Dollies' sweet potato brioche creation
The Castellucci siblings, Stephanie, John and Fred, still prioritize holiday get togethers despite running a bustling restaurant biz.
2 tablespoons canola oil 1 cup yellow onion, chopped ½ cup garlic, chopped 2 lemons, peeled and cubed 2 bay leaves ½ cup Worcestershire sauce 1 cup dry white wine 4 cups clam juice
n Fans of deep dishstyle Chicago pizza need not fly to the
n Brezza Cucina in Ponce City Market is now offering pizza-making classes
for your tiniest pizzaiolos. Offered the second Monday of each month, the classes are $25 per child and include a complimentary glass of wine for mom and dad.
JOIN US AS WE CELEBRATE
The 25th Lauren’s Run and CURE Childhood Cancer Annual Picnic Atlanta’s ultimate day of family fun with a 5k, 2k, and tot trot followed by an incredible picnic with inflatables, games, and lots more!
Sunday, April 28, 2019 | Concourse Office Park | Atlanta, GA Join the Celebration at: laurensrun.com DIAMOND SPONSOR
“EAT BREAKFAST LIKE A KING, LUNCH LIKE A PRINCE AND DINNER LIKE A PAUPER.”
CREAM OF THE CROP
— FAMED NUTRITIONIST ADELLE DAVIS
11 top breakfast spots’ most in-demand dishes | STORY: Jennifer Bradley Franklin |
e’re not ashamed to play favorites, so we asked some of Atlanta’s best morning restaurant haunts what gets ordered most during the breakfast hours. Their answers may surprise and inspire you.
Star Provisions Market & Café: French Omelet Baguette “It’s special because it’s unusual to have a well-prepared French omelet,” says chef, owner and James Beard Award winner Anne Quatrano of the dish finessed with fine herbs, brie and aioli. starprovisions.com
Java Jive: Gingerbread Waffle “Our gingerbread waffle with homemade lemon curd has been a longtime favorite. The spicy waffle pairs well with the taste of tart, sweet lemon,” says Steven Horwitz, owner of this breakfast-only spot on Ponce. “It’s like a warm hug from your grandma’s kitchen.” facebook.com/Java-Jive-130545348302
Photo: Sara Hanna
Flying Biscuit Café: The High Flyer
RISE & SHINE …
At Bread & Butterfly, Sharon Hallman serves up pancakes, OJ and a winning smile.
BECAUSE IT’S TIME FOR BREAKFAST. AND WE HAVE THE SCOOP ON WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO EAT.
If you find yourself unable to choose what to order at Flying Biscuit’s original Candler Park location (or any of its area dining rooms), this popular mashup comes with lots of favorites: two eggs anyway you like, chicken sausage, “creamy dreamy” grits, a biscuit with apple butter and your choice of either a buttermilk pancake or an organic oatmeal pancake topped with peach compote. “It’s been on our menu since our doors opened in 1993,” says brand leader Brent Fuller. flyingbiscuit.com
They say breakfast is the most important meal of the day. So why not make it memorable? Countless restaurants in the area serve up everything from healthconscious smoothies and made-to-order eggs to syrup-smothered pancakes and full-on, calorie-busting buffets that make it well worth rolling out of bed in the morning. So change out of your PJs, brush your teeth, comb your hair and get eating.
full entrée,” explains West Egg co-owner Ben Johnson, who decided to stack it in classic Benedict form with a few twists (a biscuit instead of an English muffin, sausage instead of Canadian bacon, runny eggs and gravy instead of hollandaise). “It may not be pretty, but people love it.” westeggcafe.com
Photo: Andrew Thomas Lee
Momo Cafe: Miso Grits At this diminutive Midtown spot, breakfast is served all day (adjoining sister restaurant Momonoki has lunch and dinner fare). “The grits are cooked in a dashi/ miso broth with a touch of heavy cream,” says general manager McKenzie Brooks of this Japanese take on a Southern staple. “We add wakame seaweed and then top off [the grits] with stir-fried ground pork, poached egg, scallions, seaweed flakes and Japanese 7 spice.” momonokiatl.com
making them more savory,” explains Ron Fisher, who runs the restaurant with his wife and daughter. Your choice of grits or potatoes comes topped with Tillamook sharp cheddar; either bacon, ham, or chicken or veggie sausage; a poached egg; arugula; and tomatoes. petitchouatl.com
s Bread & Butterfly: Avocado & Toast “This dish is special because we use our sister bakery Proof Bakeshop’s sourdough bread and season the avocado with lime and crème fraîche,” explains Kristin Allin, who owns the Inman Park eatery with her chef/husband, Billy. bread-and-butterfly.com
t Home Grown: Comfy Chicken Biscuit
The Southern sandwich kickstarts your day with griddled ham, tomato relish, a sunny-side-up egg and pimento cheese, all tucked between a housemade English muffin. “It’s got all the things you want in a breakfast, whether you want to lighten it up with a side salad and hot tea or go full hangover cure and get it with home fries and black coffee,” says the Grant Park eatery’s owner David Traxler. fullcommissionatl.com
Photo: Thomas Lee
Full Commission: The Southern
s Upbeet: Peanut Butter Bliss Kelly Wallace, vice president of the Young + Hungry restaurant group responsible for Upbeet, describes this photogenic smoothie bowl as “a tasty way to fuel your body with fiber, protein and healthy fats to satisfy you until lunchtime without the guilt of added sugars.” It’s made up of an all-organic base of acai, banana, blueberries, peanut butter and cashew milk topped with fresh banana, strawberries, cacao nibs, hemp granola and more peanut butter. upbeet.com
West Egg Café: Georgia Benedict “I’ve always loved biscuits and gravy. The Georgia Benedict was born when we wanted to incorporate them into a
Locals and visiting celebrities alike line up for a seat at one of the Formica-topped tables here to feast on down-home fare, especially this homemade buttermilk biscuit topped with fried chicken tenders and smothered with rich sausage gravy. “It’s been on the menu pretty much since our inception [in 2010],” says manager Evan Stepp. “It fits with the vibe of the restaurant: not pretentious, just a really good plate of food.” homegrownga.com
s Muchacho: Muchacho-Style Taco “I firmly believe the breakfast taco stands on the shortlist of milestone achievements in the history of human civilization,” says founder Michael Lennox, who recommends newbies start with the simple Reggae taco, a housemade flour tortilla stuffed with scrambled egg, potato and pico de gallo. Pros should order the Muchacho Style, with egg, chorizo, roasted poblano, pico and melted Chihuahua cheese. muchachoatl.com
Petit Chou: Cabbagetown Breakfast Bowl “Who doesn’t like breakfast in a bowl? The fresh greens and tomato concasse contrast with the grits and potatoes,
Who says you can’t have dinner for breakfast?
LAST THINGS FIRST ometimes you can’t wait all day to chow down on your favorite foods. Lucky for us, these restaurants offer hearty dinnertime dishes right out of the gate. You’ve heard of breakfast for dinner, well, welcome to dinner for breakfast.
BRUNCH BUCKET LIST 5 of our favorite spots for the beloved midmorning meal | STORY: Jennifer Bradley Franklin |
Photo: Brandon Amato
tlanta has practically elevated brunch— that liminal period between breakfast and lunch—to an art form. It’s the magical meal where it’s appropriate (required even) to linger as long as possible, enjoying friends, food and maybe a cocktail or two. Here are five of the city’s best places to get your fix.
s Chick-a-Biddy: Fried Chicken Sandwich
t PARK 75
If you got an early start shopping at Atlantic Station, you might be craving something robust, and this golden-fried chicken breast on an Engleman’s bun fits the bill. It comes topped with bread and butter pickles, lettuce, tomato and Creole mayonnaise, but we recommend adding pimento cheese for an extra dose of decadence. chickabiddyatl.com
Brunch at the Four Seasons is as lavish as you would expect, filling the entire mezzanine level of Midtown’s only five-star hotel. Since it’s a buffet, you can choose your own culinary adventure. Go the breakfast route with made-to-order omelettes, fluffy biscuits with sausage gravy and still-steaming waffles. Or stick to savories from a seafood tower piled high with shrimp, stone crab claws and oysters on the half shell or cuts from the prime rib carving station. Be sure to save room for dessert: Pastry chef Lasheeda Perry’s creations are as delicious as they are gorgeous. fourseasons.com/atlanta/dining/ restaurants/park_75
Ria’s Bluebird: Brisket Breakfast When this Memorial Drive restaurant opened in 2000, it quickly developed a reputation for its all-day breakfast and affordable prices. The Brisket Breakfast is an easy favorite, with its shredded Angus beef that’s roasted for 14 hours in a spicy tomato broth and served with poached eggs and a generous hunk of toasted baguette to soak it all up. riasbluebird.com
The Silver Skillet: Skillet Country Ham with Redeye Gravy This Midtown diner has been the Decker family business since 1967, and one of its most popular dishes is the skillet country ham with redeye gravy. Served with a pair of eggs any way you like ’em, grits and a biscuit, the ham is so tender you won’t even need a knife. thesilverskillet.com
Thumbs Up Diner: Steak and Eggs Who says steak is only for supper? Whether you visit Thumbs Up’s Edgewood Avenue or Marietta Street locations, order the 8-ounce strip steak served with two eggs any style, potatoes and toast or a multigrain biscuit and you’ll be fully fueled for whatever your day holds. thumbsupdiner.com
s TINY LOU’S Whether you stay at the Hotel Clermont or just want to experience brunch at Atlanta’s most buzzed-about new hotel, this sub-lobby eatery is worth a visit. On Saturdays and Sundays, chef Jeb Aldrich turns out a rather extraordinary croque madame, waffles with duck confit and ice wine maple syrup, and French toast with balsamic apples, among other specialties. tinylous.com
BEETLECAT If you thought doughnuts were only for drive-thrus, think again. We suggest making your own shareable doughnut sampler at this Inman Park spot with flavors such as The Irishman (spiked with Irish cream, espresso and a whiskey glaze), The Buford Highway (dipped in salted caramel and sprinkled with pork floss), The King (topped with banana, bacon and peanut butter) and El Churro (sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and served with honey butter dipping sauce) before moving onto the menu’s other savory pursuits. beetlecatatl.com Photo: Andrew Isabella
Photo: Asher Moss
| STORY: Jennifer Bradley Franklin |
MURPHY’S This Virginia-Highland restaurant, located on the corner of the two streets that gave the neighborhood its name, has had a loyal following since it opened in 1980. Weekend brunch is a convivial affair, with favorites such as corned beef hash, hazelnut-crusted French toast and shrimp over cheddar grits with tomato pepper jam. Peruse the on-site wine shop for a bottle to take home while you’re there. murphys-atlanta-restaurant.com
9 MILE STATION The view alone from this alfresco dining room perched on the rooftop of Ponce City Market is enough to earn it a place on our list, but the food matches the soaring skyline. Ride the freight elevator up (there’s free access with reservations at the restaurant, which requires a deposit) and settle in for yummy dishes such as a sticky bun with bourbon icing, eggs Benedict with a pretzel croissant and merguez sausage hash. 9milestation.com
GLOBAL BEGINNINGS 3 mouthwatering breakfasts from around the world
| STORY: Lia Picard |
here’s no doubt that American breakfast fare is delicious, but sometimes you want something other than the usual bacon and eggs to start the day. To excite your taste buds, think globally. Atlanta is home to a bevy of cultures that bring their tasty offerings to the table. From the Chinese pastries at Sweet Hut Bakery & Cafe in Midtown to the North African shakshuka poachedegg dish at Mediterranea in Grant Park, there’s an international treat for every early riser. Here are three places to get your fix.
French: Proof Bakeshop We tend to think of French cuisine as heavy on the sauces, but breakfast in France is a lighter, simpler affair—although there’s still plenty of butter. Proof Bakeshop in Inman Park is known for its delectable delights, from cakes and bread to savory scones. Among its stars, though, is the almond croissant—rich, flaky, stuffed with a creamy almond paste and about the size of your face. It’s a morning treat that’ll make
Memorable morning cocktails to jump-start your day
you say “Oui, oui.” Get there early, as they sell out fast. proofbakeshop.com
t Hungarian: Julianna’s In the U.S., our pancakes are thick, fluffy and smothered in syrup, whereas in Hungary, their pancakes, known as palacsintas, are thin and served rolled up with sweet and savory fillings such as Nutella, jam, meats and cheeses. Julianna’s in Inman Park has been whipping up the crepe-like palacsintas since 2013, and the
setting couldn’t be more adorable; it’s reminiscent of a cozy European cafe and momentarily transports you out of the hustle and bustle of Atlanta. atlantacrepes.com
| STORY: Jennifer Bradley Franklin |
Bloody Mary, mimosa or bellini can start the day off with a kick to be sure. However, some of the city’s most creative mixologists are going beyond the early-in-the-day staples to concoct breakfast sips to remember. Here are three tasty examples.
t Brazilian: Buteco Coffee & Bar
Bon Ton: Lazy Waker Half Frozen
Buteco, a swanky spot in Grant Park’s Beacon development specializing in Brazilian coffee and cuisine, opened its doors last year. The offerings aren’t purely authentic, but they are more than satisfying. The pão de queijo waffles are a take on the traditional cheesy Brazilian bread. Instead of the puffed-up rolls you’ll find incountry, Buteco’s version features waffles infused with Parmesan cheese. Eat them plain or order a variety of toppings such as guava jelly and ham and cheese. butecoatlanta.com
The Vietnamese and Cajun influences are felt in the creative menu at this quirky restaurant on Myrtle Street in Midtown. If the neon-lit sign declaring “Fancy Service” doesn’t wake you up, the Lazy Waker’s 50/50 blend of Guinness and frozen Vietnamese coffee spiked with Irish whiskey, with a bonus shot of smoked bourbon, is sure to do the trick. bontonatl.com
Joy Cafe: The High Rise This cocktail’s name is perfectly appropriate, given the cheery Joy Cafe sits on the street level of one of Midtown’s high-rise buildings. The blend of Cathead vodka, elderflower syrup, peach-mint syrup, fresh cucumber, mint, lemon and lime is a flavorful accompaniment to chef Joy Beber’s made-from-scratch fare. joycafeatl.com
Ladybird Grove & Mess Hall: Hand Shake Deal
2 delicious breakfast recipes to make at home
CALLIE’S HOT LITTLE BISCUIT’S TOASTED MAPLE BISCUIT CASSEROLE Serves 4-6
This hearty casserole is warm and filling, and doesn’t require baking your own biscuits.
| STORY: Lia Picard |
1 ¹⁄³ cups beaten eggs ½ cup maple syrup 1 tablespoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon salt 1 ½ cups biscuit breadcrumbs (leftover biscuits finely processed) ½ cup turbinado sugar
e’re lucky that Atlanta has so many restaurants with wonderful breakfast offerings. But sometimes it’s just as satisfying to roll out of bed and whip up something in your own kitchen. Here are two recipes provided by local eateries that taste majorly good but require minimal effort.
2 tablespoons butter 8 cups leftover chopped biscuits, cut into ½” to 1” cubes 1 ¹⁄³ cups milk 1 ¹⁄³ cups cream
Photo: Kate Magee
Scores of revelers flock to this BeltLineadjacent bar for afternoon and evening libations, but come first thing and begin your morning with this refreshing cocktail made simply with Belle Isle ruby red grapefruit moonshine, St-Germain, grapefruit juice and soda. It’s the perfect drink to wash down one of the kitchen’s tasty avocado toasts or pulled-pork griddle cakes. ladybirdatlanta.com
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9 x 13 baking dish with butter. Line bottom of greased dish with cubed biscuits. Combine milk, cream, eggs, syrup, cinnamon and salt, and pour over biscuits. Top with biscuit breadcrumbs and sugar. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes, then cover dish with foil and bake until mixture is just set, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool slightly. calliesbiscuits.com
SWEET AUBURN BARBECUE’S STEAK & EGGS Serves 2 This recipe is a great way to upcycle last night’s leftovers.
churri. Sprinkle dish with queso fresco and top with fried eggs. sweetauburnbbq.com
10 ounces hash brown potatoes ¼ cup diced green bell peppers ¼ cup diced yellow onions 2 tablespoons canola oil 1 tablespoon salt 6 ounces leftover smoked brisket, warmed up 2 ounces chimichurri 2 ounces queso fresco 2 eggs, fried medium Sauté potatoes, bell peppers and onions in oil. Once browned, season with salt. Add warm smoked brisket over the top and spoon on chimi-
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Happening WHAT’S GOING ON AROUND TOWN | STORIES: Claire Ruhlin |
THE GREAT RACE ANNUAL 5K CELEBRATES GIRL POWER
ow in its fourth year, the annual Cupcake Run 5K kicks off at 7 a.m. Mar. 24 in Piedmont Park. Produced by Chocolate Cupcake in partnership with Global Races and Events, the event has become a tradition for participants from Georgia and beyond, and a sweet celebration of girls that also raises awareness of the impact of childhood obesity. “The Cupcake Run was initially designed to attract a wider audience to Chocolate Cupcake, a lifestyle brand targeting tweens that honors girls through books, clothing and live events,” says founder Lynda Osborne. But the run “grew into its own force, attracting an audience of not only girls and their moms, but also dads, friends and family members.”
Osborne started Chocolate Cupcake to empower young females and extol their diversity, potential and character, and the Cupcake Run checks all of those boxes as well. Registration includes a race T-shirt and customized finisher medal. The morning includes yoga, vendors, a live DJ and, of course, free cupcakes for anyone who completes the race. “I think people are attracted to the run because it represents girlhood, sisterhood, friendship and family,” says Osborne. “I also think our attendees appreciate the opportunity to gather together for an experience in the name of health, fitness and fun. And the sweet reward at the finish line doesn’t hurt!” n bit.ly/CupcakeRun2019
ATLANTA ST. PATRICK’S DAY PARADE MARCH 16 Originally started in 1858, the Atlanta St. Patrick’s Day Parade is one of the country’s oldest parades, and Atlanta’s longest running event. The family-friendly spectacular, which kicks off at noon on Peachtree Street in Midtown, celebrates Irish culture with bagpipes, floats, dancers, marching bands from across the South, U.S. and Irish dignitaries, and members of the Hibernian Benevolent Society, Clan na nGael, Fire Emerald Society of Metro Atlanta and other Irish-centric organizations. The parade’s organizer, Irish Network Atlanta (INATL), works to create networking opportunities within the Irish community while also contributing to charitable organizations and cultural initiatives. “The St. Patrick’s Day Parade is so important for the young Irish professional in Atlanta away from home, often only a few
ATLANTA STREETS ALIVE April 7 Peachtree Street
years out of college,” says INATL president Jessica Houghton. You don’t have to be Irish to enjoy the parade, of course, and this sense of openness is part of what makes it so special, says Emer Sutin, a member of INATL. “To see people from all walks of life, all backgrounds, all races, participating in the parade is truly incredible,” she says. “It’s amazing that the Irish population in Atlanta has such a strong presence
Atlanta Streets Alive’s flagship event returns to Peachtree Street for the sixth consecutive year, closing down area roads and inviting Atlantans to walk, bike, skate, scooter and roll through Midtown and downtown. Organized by the Atlanta Bicycle Coalition, the initiative seeks to transform the city’s streets into safe, accessible spaces.
ATLANTA DOGWOOD FESTIVAL April 12–14 Piedmont Park
that Peachtree gets shut down. Not many other events in the city can say that.” n atlantastpats.com
DAD’S GARAGE BIG STUPID PARKING LOT CARNIVAL APRIL 16 After 17 years, BaconFest is no longer; the former pork-fueled event hosted by the comedy venue Dad’s Garage has rebranded itself as Dad’s Garage Big Stupid Parking Lot Carnival. And while bacon will no longer be a part of the event, the location, festive atmosphere, improvised performances and selection of beer will remain.
“BaconFest was never about the bacon,” says Matthew Terrell, communications director at Dad’s Garage. “What made that festival so special was the carnival-esque booths led by our improvisers, such as Hobo Wine Tasting and Karen’s Kompliments, and the general uplifting experience we provided for attendees.” Eliminating the bacon also
allowed Dad’s Garage to lower ticket prices and create a more sustainable event. “The bacon was merely a sideshow, and honestly, not very good,” says Terrell. “Providing unlimited bacon for all attendees ended up being an expensive, wasteful endeavor. Since meat has one of the biggest carbon footprints of anything we eat, by removing the bacon, we are able to reduce the environmental impact of the festival.” Tickets start at $10, and guests can expect the event to look similar to BaconFest—just without the pork and with even more improv-led booths and rides. And Terrell promises plenty of booze and food booths. “We want guests to be able to ‘touch the magic,’ which we do by providing them a fun experience where they get to engage one-on-one with our improvisers in hilarious booths,” he says. n baconfestatl.com
The Atlanta Dogwood Festival returns to Piedmont Park for its 83rd year this April. The three-day event celebrates spring with a juried artist market featuring creators from across the country, with works ranging from paintings and photography to sculpture, pottery and jewelry. The event also includes a Kids Village and live music.
ATLANTA GRILLED CHEESE FESTIVAL April 13 Atlantic Station What could be more fun to celebrate than cheese? The Atlanta Grilled Cheese Festival rings in National Grilled Cheese Day with examples from restaurants across the city. Tickets include your first three samples, along with live tunes, an Adult Game Zone and a beer garden.
INMAN PARK FESTIVAL & TOUR OF HOMES April 26-28 Inman Park Shop artwork, antiques, handcrafted wares, clothing and more at the Inman Park Festival & Tour of Homes’ Arts & Crafts Market and Street Market. The three-day event also features a not-to-be-missed parade, along with a dance festival, concerts and a tour of homes.