Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL
Korea awaits! • september 2011 VOL. 3 NO. 12
외국인의 한국생활 노하우
How to Make Romance Work in a Land Where People Don't Mingle
Printed using 100% soy ink.
September 2011 vol. 3 No. 12 4 From the Editor / Shot of Korean
Shot by Dominique Buck
Nationwide Calendar 38 Movies Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 2, Captain America: The First Avenger, and My Beautiful Girl Mari
6 Contributors 8 Letters / Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers
39 TV Superstar K 3 on Mnet
9 The Reader’s 10
40 Music The Vines, Hugo, MBLAQ
10 10 Questions FC Seoul’s Dejan Damjanovic
Books Try to Remember
12 History The Forgotten Pagoda
41 Tech 4G and the Mobile Market
14 Taste of Korea Jeon
42 Seoul Restaurant Review El Olivo
Regional Calendar 44 Seoul Discovery Fitness on Namsan
16 In the Kitchen Suji Park
60 Gyeonggi Editor’s Pick Jarasum Jazz Festival
18 Expat Expertise Photography
61 Gyeonggi Discovery Keirin Bike Racing
20 Family The Best Aquariums
62 Gangwon Editor’s Pick Songi Mushroom Festival
22 Korean Destination Saseungbong-do Shot by Lisa Xing
64 Gyeongsang Editor’s Pick Haein Art Project
24 Dine and Drink Banchan 30 Hotel & Resort News 32 Expat News 34 Gastronomic News 72 A Happy Ending
Rom ancing the ROK
Shot by Simon Bond
66 Gyeongsang Editor’s Pick Andong Mask Festival
What is love? Cover story writer David Volodzko doesn’t try to answer that silly question, but he does a pretty good of explaining how relationships work in Korea. Learn more about concepts like sogaeting and matseonbogi as well as some good tips for finding someone special the Korean way.
70 Jeju Discovery Jane’s Groove
Website, Rock & Expat Fest, and Contest—Oh, My!
f you’re a subscriber, you’ll be reading this just before September starts. Get ready for “Fall Madness” from 10. To start off, September 1st is going to be the launching date for our brand new website. We’ve been having a fundraiser at IndieGoGo (indiegogo.com/10-Magazines-New-Website) for the last month, giving away cool perks in exchange for your support of our new 10 Magazine website. During that time, we’ve also been hard at work on the website, and your support has allowed us to bring some serious features to our site that will help increase its value to users and build community interaction all over Korea. The key of course being our online Calendar and Directory—just like the 10 Magazine you hold in your hands. You’ll be able to add your own events to our already massive Calendar, and you’ll be able to rate and review accommodations, restaurants, bars and shopping locations in our Directory. There will also be other features that build community, like personal activity streams, groups, forums, classifieds and more. Then on September 3rd join 10 Magazine at the US Army Yongsan Garrison’s RockFest. About 362 days of the year, access to the US Yongsan Army Base is tightly restricted to people with base passes, but this is one of the few days when you can get in with a valid ID. This is your chance to enjoy some terrific rock music all day, along with good ol’ American favorites like burgers, hot dogs and sausages. 10 Magazine will have a booth there with fun stuff to do and great giveaways. Oh, and yours truly will be one of the MCs of the festivities. I certainly hope you can join us. Next, on September 24th comes the 2nd Annual Expat’s Festival (formerly known as Foreigner’s Day), which 10 Magazine is putting on in association with FC Seoul and the Seoul Global
Center. Last year we were ecstatic with the results, with over 5,000 expat residents of Korea in attendance. This year we’re hoping to double that and reach over 10,000 expats! FC Seoul will show some amazing hospitality to visitors, giving them what is normally a W12,000 seat plus a hot dog and a beer for only W10,000! This is not your ordinary football/soccer game, with a true festival atmosphere in the parking lot before the start of the game, so get there early and be sure to drop by the 10 Magazine booth and say, “Hi!” to me and the 10 team! To top it all off, we are accepting entries for our 2nd Annual 10 Magazine “Korea Awaits!” Video Contest during the month of September. The Grand Prize is round-trip tickets for 2 to Europe on Lufthansa German Airlines. Where in Europe? Anywhere! You choose any destination you’d like because Lufthansa flies to all of them. And there will be more great prizes for any contestant in the top 10. To learn more, check out 10mag.com/contest. Did I also mention that we make a magazine? S tephe n R evere M anaging E dito r
A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere
[Teul-lim eop-seo.] : I’m positive. / For sure. / Literally: (I/It) can’t be wrong. We’re not using the polite ending here, so stick with using this expression as is with friends. If you’d like to be polite when with superiors/elders, then be sure to add a 요 (yo) on to the end. “틀리다” (teullida) is the verb for “to be wrong,” and adding a “ㅁ” (m) to the end is one way of making a verb into a noun in Korean—kind of like adding “ness” to a verb in English. “없다” (eop-da) of course means “to not exist” and is one of the first words you’ll learn if you’re trying to learn Korean. So this expression literally means, “There is no wrongness.” 그건 가짜가 틀림 없어. (Geu-geon ga-jja-ga teul-lim eop-seo.) That thing is definitely fake. And you can use it as an adverb to show that you’re absolutely sure about the verb that’s coming next. Just add an “이” (long “e” sound) at the end of the verb to make it. 우리가 틀림 없이 이길거야. (U-ri-ga teul-lim eop-si i-gil-geo-ya.) I’m positive we’ll win. And if your friend is a terrible cook, then you can make an assumption about how his food will taste before you even try it. 틀림 없이 맛 없을거야. (Teul-lim eop-si mat eop-seul-geo-ya.) That’s going to taste awful.
Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.
4 | 10 Magazine September 2011
You can’t get this info anywhere else.
Lucy Beauclair (p. 63) is from Salt Lake City, Utah. She enjoys the great outdoors: skiing, hiking, equestrian sports, and fresh air in general. She organized and ran the Cheonan Pub Quiz for the past year before moving to Bucheon in June. A lifelong bibliophile, you can frequently find her curled up on a sunny bench around town with a good book.
Dominique Buck (p. 26) is a quirky little South African girl addicted to cameras and is a self-taught photographer. She loves her new home in Korea and constantly finds new, inspiring places and interesting people to shoot. When she’s not wearing away the shutter button on her camera, there’s her little adopted Chihuahua Kevin to romp with, chocolate to be eaten and coffee to be drunk.
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Russ Martin (p. 46) is a writer turned teacher on the run from the West. He’s that guy at Tom N Toms taking notes on his iTouch, pretending to assimilate with SMS. In Canada, he wrote about fashion and advertising. In Korea, he writes about art. Darrell Slater (p. 10) is from Australia, moving from England as a teenager. He loves playing, watching and following all sports. Since his arrival in Korea 18 months ago, he has also found a passion for writing about them. He is a freelance writer who writes about anything and everything sports. He also dabbles in quirky tales of Korean cultural differences. More of his work can be read at teslkoreanews.com.
Contribute to 10 Magazine • Share your knowledge with our readers • See your work on the printed page • Receive vouchers, tickets, and other perks 10 Magazine is currently looking for contributors all over Korea to assist with the directory and to provide articles. If you’re interested in gaining valuable writing experience and sharing your experience here with readers all across Korea, contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org. 6 | 10 Magazine September 2011
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Contributing Editors Elaine Ahn, Lucy Beauclair, Michael Berry, Serenity Bolt, Simon Bond, Adam Boothe, Dominique Buck, Kim Byeong-uk, Courtney Cheatham, Eun-kyu Choi, A-ran Choi, Chris Chou, Judith Ann Clancy, Marco Combs, Matthew Crompton, Gregory Curley, Curtis File, Josh Hamlet, Ciaran Hickey, Shea Karssing, Sylvia Kim, Young-rae Kim, Leroy Kucia, Angela Lee, Grace Lee, Jacob Leonard, Stafford Lumsden, Russ Martin, Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson, Julia Mellor, John Mensing, Charles Montgomery, Ji-sun Moon, Robert Neff, Anna Orzel, Eric Osburn, David Oxenbridge, Shawn Parker, Alyssa Perry, Darrell Slater, Emma Stoyanova Shiekova, Jason Teale, David Volodzko, Bryce Weibley, Lisa Xing, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon
Jacob Leonard (p. 44) is a “Southern boy” from West Monroe, Louisiana. He dislikes exercise and competition. He prefers watching TV, doing 12-ounce curls, and dining on food that tastes so good, it “makes him wanna slap his mother.” The last fish he caught with his bare hands was this big.
Alyssa Perry (p. 49) is a San Franciscan that found her way a year ago back to her homeland, Korea. When she is not busy figuring out her way around Seoul, she can be found hanging out with friends, discovering new music, and devising plans for the next travel spot. Since her move, Alyssa has been doing music writing as a freelancer including album and concert reviews. She is excited to write about the evolving Korean music scene.
Fabio (Cody Hunter), Kim Ji Hee, and photographer Dylan Goldby gathered in Seoul for the once-ina-lifetime romance novel cover shoot. Assisted by wind technician Ian Phillips, they brought to 10 Magazine what it really means when a man loves a woman.
The views expressed in these articles do not necessarily represent the views of 10 Magazine. Please Recycle This Magazine
10 Magazine September Vol. 3 No. 12 등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184) Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 10층 10th floor Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewon-ro, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10mag.com 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.
LETTERS Dear Editor, As a biking enthusiast I really enjoyed your article on cycling “Pedal to the Medal” (Ed. published in the August issue). One minor correction is the Seoul Subway is usually fine with cyclists, just as long as they use only the first or last cars, though it is best to avoid rush hour. Keep up the great work! Yvon Malenfant, Gyeongnidan, Seoul
Blog of the Month
10’s Reply Hello Yvon, Thanks for your message! We’re glad to hear that you’ve had a positive experience with taking your bike on the subway. We’ve seen people bring their folding bikes on the subway before with no problems, but we were wondering about large-frame bicycles. 10
Korea by the Numbers Percentage increase in Korean Facebook users between January (2,321,840) and April (4,230,500) of 2011**
Percentage of Koreans who have joined domestic social networking service Cyworld since it started in 1999 (25,000,000 members). ***
Percentage increase in the number of Facebook visits by PC users in Korea, year on year from May 2010 (2.64 million) to May 2011 (18.6 million).**
Number of Koreans whose private information was compromised when hackers broke into the computers of Nate and Cyworld (both owned by SK Communications). ***
*GreyReview.com, **Korea Metrix, KCC (Korea Communications Commission)
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8 | 10 Magazine September 2011
Is it a blog or a magazine? Ask fashion magazine Yahae! editor Michael Hurt that question and he’ll launch into an erudite discussion of what blogs and magazines are. But the simple answer is, both. Though Michael’s ostensible reason for being in Korea is research for his dissertation, he has also pursued blogging and fashion photography with equal energy. Many readers will be familiar with his top-notch (and sometimes over-the-top) analytical blog Scribblings of the Metropolitician (metropolitician.blogs.com) as well as his street fashion website FeetManSeoul.com. His latest venture combines those interests. When you load yahae.tumblr.com, it sure looks like a magazine. The first thing you’ll see is the cover of the latest edition. When we visited, this was the August edition, the second issue since Yahae! got off the ground earlier this summer. A slim model wearing a smart, multicolored swimsuit splashes in the Cheonggyecheon. The cover text hints at profiles of designers and article with provocative titles like “Why Singles Should See a Gynecologist,” appropriate for a magazine whose title means “erotic” in Korean. So where’s the rest of the content? This is where the blog part comes in. The magazine is hosted on the microblog tumblr, which is ideal for its stream-of-consciousness flow of snappy comments, sexy images from other fashion magazines, and links to other blogs. The content of the magazine is there, too, published over the course of the month one spread at a time. Since the actual editorials don’t fit on tumblr, you can click through to the site where they are actually hosted, yahae.wordpress.com. Yahae! fans can get their daily updates and quick fashion bites on the blog and visit the Wordpress site for the meat of the magazine.
THE READER'S 10
What Is Your Favorite Foreign Restaurant Chain in Korea?
eptember’s Reader’s 10 was strong evidence of extremely diverse opinions with plenty of close tallies in the top ten. We guess when it comes to oh-so-satisfying Western food, it’s not easy to predict the winners. But the winning Western chain that came out way ahead in the voting was On the Border. And to be honest, we’re not too surprised. Mexican food is one of the few cuisines that is hard to duplicate in a land where cilantro, limes, and avocadoes are hard to find—whether you’re looking for them in the dictionary or the market. Check out the top ten below and see if any of your guilty pleasures made the list.
10 TGIF 9 Johnny Rockets 8 Burger King 7 Quizno’s 6 McDonald’s
5 Papa John’s 4 Outback Steakhouse 3 Taco Bell 2 Subway
1 On the Border For next month’s Reader’s 10, we wanted to talk about another factor, besides Western food, that has a strong hold on our lives—blogs. There’s no denying the power of blogs. Street fashion, restaurant reviews, political opinions—they have all been transformed and empowered by the rise of this new form of media. Unsuspected wordsmiths scour all over for information and hunch behind computer screens to deliver a mesh of colloquial language and high-definition photographs to people just like me and you. They’re the digital world’s answer to independent newspapers, just less inclined to be swayed by external influences. So we’d like to know:
What’s Your Favorite Expat Blog on Korea? Though we did do a similar Reader’s 10 last April (and a very competitive one at that), we know how ever-changing the world of cyberspace can be. As well as the old standbys, we also want to hear about up-and-coming blogs that may not have made the bigtimers’ blogrolls yet. (Plus, we’re hoping to get some more fresh ideas for our Blog of the Month column, so this is a good chance to add that awesome blog you ran across to our list!) Go ahead and add your nominations to the open thread, which will go up on our website (10mag.com/readers10) on Wednesday, August 24th. Then with those results, we will create the Reader’s 10 poll, which will be posted on Monday, September 5th for all to vote in. The poll will close at 11:59 pm on Thursday, September 15th. 10 Magazine September 2011 | 9
Photo provided by Sportalkorea
10 Qu estions
FC Seoul’s Goal Machine Dejan Damjanovic, Soccer Player with FC Seoul I n t e r v i e w by Darr e l l S l at e r
C Seoul and Montenegro international soccer team member Dejan Damjanovic arrived on Korean shores in 2007. Initially on a short term contract with Incheon United, the striker soon swapped the blue of Korea’s port city for the red and black stripes of its capital. Now Dejan takes the field for FC Seoul, Korea’s most popular pro soccer team which draws an average of 30,000 fans per game. After terrorizing defenses at Seoul’s World Cup Stadium for the last three and a half years, Dejan finally earned himself and FC Seoul’s passionate fans a championship in 2010—its first since 2000. This season he is currently sitting at the top of individual goal scoring charts in the K-League with 15 goals to his name, and he has high hopes of a second championship success in 2011. 10 Magazine conducted an interview with Dejan to find out about his experiences as a foreign national in Korea and his thoughts on 10 Magazine and FC Seoul’s upcoming Expat’s Festival taking place on September 24th.
10 10 Magazine September 2011
1. Dejan, you have lived in Korea for several years now. Have you enjoyed your time in Korea so far? Yes, totally. This is my fifth year in Korea and I really like my life here. I like everything about Korea—the people, the food, the city of Seoul and FC Seoul football club itself. Coming to Korea was one of the best decisions of my life.
2. What aspects of Korean culture do you enjoy the most? Food is my number one love here in Korea. Korean food is really delicious and healthy. My favorite food is doenjang jjigae (된장찌개) and galbi (갈비). My daughter Petra also loves the music here. She is one and a half years old but she loves Korean pop music. Everything is perfect for me and my family here in Korea. I find Seoul full of positive things. 3. What aspects of Korean culture do you not enjoy? For me, the biggest problem is the language. My Korean language is still bad and I find that not a lot of Koreans speak good English. My biggest regret here in Korea is that I still can’t speak the Korean language. I know some words but not enough for normal communication. I hope that I will be able to learn Korean in the future. 4. Do you have any regrets about coming to Korea to play soccer? No, this was one of the best decisions of my life. I like it here in Korea and I’m thinking that I would like to stay here to finish my career. If everything goes according to plan like it is now I will probably stay here for a long time. We will have to wait and see. 5. At the time of this interview you currently sit on top of the goal scoring charts for the K-league. Is finishing as the K-League’s top goal scorer one of your personal goals? Yes, that is my personal goal. I really think that I can be on the top of the scoring charts at the end of the season. I believe that we [FC Seoul] are showing our real strength now. If we continue to play like this, we have a good chance to defend our championship title from 2010. The most important thing is that we have improved our form now. I am very happy with this recent improvement. If it’s possible to be a champion and be the top scorer in the K-League, then that will be a perfect season for me. 6. I have to ask this as I loved the goals you scored in 2009 against one of world football’s greatest clubs, Manchester United. Were you proud of this achievement? Yes, of course. It was a really nice experience for me and helped me a lot in Korea, on all levels, both professionally and privately. Those goals were really something special in my career up to this date. 7. Do you feel that moving to Korea has enhanced your soccer career? Yes, especially now when I look back. I have spent four seasons in the best league in Asia and every year good things have happened. This is not always easy. I still feel that I can give more to keep improving myself, like in my first year here in Korea. 8. Do you get to interact much with other foreigners in Seoul or around Korea? Not really with the general public. I have friends from around the K-league, mainly from old Yugoslavia. We can get together and speak the same language, and our families have the same interests. We feel more comfortable around each other. I am also good friends with other foreign players at FC Seoul such as Mauricio Molina. We sometimes have lunch or dinner together. 9. What are your thoughts about 10 Magazine and FC Seoul’s upcoming Expat’s Festival on September 24th? It’s a very good event. I feel many foreigners want to watch football matches but sometimes they don’t really know how. I think it’s also a great opportunity for me and the players on my team to showcase our skills to foreigners living in Korea. I hope that lots of foreigners can come to this event and enjoy themselves. They will see how fun it is at the Seoul World Cup Stadium. The FC Seoul fans are especially passionate and the atmosphere at the games is amazing. 10. If you could send a message to the expat community across Korea what would it be? I hope everyone continues to enjoy it more and more here in Korea and I hope to see everyone at the Seoul World Cup Stadium! 10 Magazine September 2011 | 11
The Forgotten Pagoda The six-century old Wongaksa Pagoda lay in ruins until Westerners in Seoul began to take an interest in it.
ne of the most interesting but least known historic sites in Seoul is Tapgol Park (탑골공원), also known as Pagoda Park. Located in the Jongno area between Jonggak and Jongno 3-ga Stations, the park’s history provides fascinating parallels with the larger history of Korea. The centerpiece and namesake of the park is Wongaksa (원각사) Pagoda (National Treasure #2), which was built in the 1460s. One of the earliest Western descriptions of this pagoda was made by Percival Lowell in the winter of 1883/1884. Lowell describes the pagoda as being “nearly in the heart of the city” and hidden by the roofs of the Korean homes that surrounded it. Since he could only catch fleeting glimpses of the pagoda as he walked down the main street, his curiosity was piqued. He was determined to view what he deemed to be the only pagoda in Seoul. He made his way through a maze of alleys and small courtyards and eventually found himself in “an ill-kept little garden in the midst of which rose the deserted solitary pagoda.” Lowell, one of the earliest amateur photographers in Korea, wanted to snap a picture of the pagoda. After obtaining permission from the owner of a nearby house, he climbed up onto its roof. This was a serious social faux pas. During the Joseon period, it
12 10 Magazine September 2011
was forbidden for men to look over the wall into their neighbor’s courtyard for fear of seeing his neighbor’s wife or daughters. Those who violated this law were often beaten and imprisoned. Lowell writes: “I have reason to believe that the proprietor neglected to notify his neighbors of my intention, as I caught a woman in an adjoining back-yard in the act of hanging out some washing. Unfortunately, she did not tarry long enough for me to photograph her, but dodged under shelter again with virtuous rapidity.” Although Lowell’s picture of the pagoda was a little blurry, he was quite pleased with it: “The white granite had become slightly discolored with age, but enough of its former purity remained to bring it into effective contrast with the somber gray of the houses.” But Lowell’s initial elation at photographing the pagoda contrasts greatly with his mood when he writes, “The garden in which it stood was a shabby, sad-looking little hole, not above twenty feet square; and the whole place, pagoda and all, looked— as in truth it was—utterly forgotten.” For the most part it had indeed been forgotten, at least by the citizens of Seoul. Over the next two decades, many of the early
Pagoda Park circa 1910-1920. The turtle and tablet are a memorial to the Wongaksa Pagoda and are National Monument #3
Words BY Robert Neff Photos from the Robert Neff collection
foreigners visited the pagoda and its “sad-looking” little garden, but it wasn’t until 1897 that anyone really took an interest in it. It was then that McLeavy Brown, a ScotchIrish barrister employed by the Korean government as commissioner of Korean customs and financial advisor, had the vision to make the first modern park in Seoul. He chose to build the park around the pagoda. By 1903, the homes around the pagoda had been cleared and a little enclosure was built around the pagoda to protect it. Brown wanted to repair the pagoda by returning the top three stories lying on the ground (removed in the late 16th century) back to their original position, but the Korean “court necromancers” vehemently opposed his idea, claiming that “great misfortunes would befall the country if the top was replaced.” Brown was forced to concede. Strangely enough, in 1947, US Army engineers brought in a crane and hoisted the three stories back to their rightful place, probably as part of an effort to revitalize Korea following its liberation from Japan’s colonial rule. Just as the soothsayers had predicted, “great misfortune” soon followed. On June 25th, 1950, the communist forces of North Korea invaded, thus beginning the Korean War.
Top: Percival Lowell's picture of the pagoda taken in the winter of 1883-1884 Bottom: Pagoda Park circa 1920-1940
10 Magazine September 2011 | 13
A TASTE OF KOREA Shot by Eric Osburn
Pancakes Aren’t Just for Breakfast Jeon 전
W o r ds by C i ara n H i c k e y, e x e c u t i v e ch e f o f t h e w s e o u l wa l k e r hi l l
Loaded with mushrooms, seafood, kimchi, and green onions, jeon shows us the savory potential of pancakes.
hen I first got to Korea I was regularly taken to eat Korean food in different parts of the city. Having faced down the bewildering array of banchan (반찬, side dishes: also see p. 24), the Korean pancake jeon became my go-to guy, my safe port in a storm. Easy to pick out in a crowd and guaranteed not to give unusual taste sensations, jeon was my easy transition to the wonderful food of Korea. And after I eventually made a few at home myself, it became one of my favorite quick and easy dinners. Jeon is a basic term for a multitude of pancake-style appetizers or side dishes. These are often served at celebration or ceremonial tables such as jesa (제사, ancestral rites) and charye (차례) at Chuseok. In fact, as Chuseok will be held this year on September 12th, this could be an excellent chance to visit Korean friends and try jeon, as well as the rest of the delicacies of the Chuseok table. Jeon is usually named after the main ingredient. One of the most basic and common varieties is pajeon (파전), made with scallions and chives. It can be found both hot and cold and ranges from the size of a small coin to the width of a frying pan. It is so simple to make: batter made of basic flour, water and egg is
mixed with chopped green onions and then pan-fried. Other popular variations include kimchi, mushroom, prawns, beef, chili peppers and different kinds of fish and seafood. In some cases, ground meatballs, large whole vegetables or pieces of meat are coated with the batter and fried. This is technically not a pancake but it still falls into the same family. In a lot of the markets here you will see vendors with rows of what look like tempura of various vegetables but are in fact these delicious jeon. Alongside its other family members is nokdujeon (녹두전) or as it is also known, bindaetteok (빈대떡). I came across this first in one of the old covered markets where an old lady was spinning two giant stone wheels to create a mushy paste. It turned out to be mung beans and she was making nokdujeon. The paste was mixed with a little green onion and fried, crispy golden on the outside and still soft in the center. Delicious, and a great beer snack. Jeon also is found in Korean desserts where a pancake using edible flowers is used to make hwajeon (화전). The base is made with sticky rice flour and is close in texture to tteok (떡, rice cake). They stand out as the bright pink flower on the flour background is very striking. It is sometimes served with a punch made with the same azalea flower petals. As one of the simplest but most enjoyable dishes to be found in Korean cuisine, jeon should become part of everyone’s cooking repertoire before they leave Seoul and its great food behind.
Gukilgwan Surasang 국일관 수라상 Halfway between Jeonju and Gwangju, visitors reach the slopes of Naejang Mountain, and it’s here at the entrance to this national park that you will find this haven for hungry travelers. Take a load off while enjoying a drink and a dish of their delicious jeon. • 46-20 Naejang-dong, Jeongeupsi, Jeollabuk-do. 063-538-7930
10 Magazine September 2011
Jongno’s Mr. Jeon 종로 전 선생 With 18 branches found in Seoul, Daejeon, Jeonju, and other cities, this chain is a good place to try a variety of different kinds of jeon. If you’re not sure what you like, try the jeon sampler (종로모듬전, jongno modeumjeon). jeon114.co.kr
Wanderer’s Pajeon 나그네 파전 Weary Seoulites hankering after a plateful of pajeon head to Hoegi Station (line 1, central line) near Kyunghee University for some of the city’s best. Try a serving of gochu twigim (고추튀김, fried peppers) and some makgeolli to keep your pajeon company. • 334-85 Hwigyeong 1-dong, Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul. Shot by Matthew Crompton
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IN THE KITCHEN If you’re feeling a little homesick, Suji Park offers good food and a sense of family.
tanding on the corner of Itaewon near Noksapyeong Station is a little slice of New York. Decorated with black and white photos of the Big Apple, Suji’s feels different from the average Korean brunch hangout. There’s something in the atmosphere—maybe it’s the deli sandwiches, maybe it’s the playful placemats and welcoming decor or maybe it’s the team of attentive staff serving couples, friends and families. Whatever it is, it’s all thanks to Suji Park, the owner and driving force behind the Suji’s Restaurant & Bar Chain. With restaurants in both Seoul and Tokyo, Suji has become a familiar face to those in Korea and Japan who are seeking good brunch, but when she first left Korea at the age of nineteen she was heading in a very different direction. Starting out in business and fashion, Suji spent ten years in New York, but it was on her return to Korea that she saw a gap in the food market. Hotels were doing brunch and the Puffin Cafe in Hannam-dong was doing American breakfasts, but there was something missing. She remembered her time in Korea Town in New York, that feeling of being at home again, and she wanted to create that feeling here. Nowhere in Seoul quite captured the essence of brunch until Suji’s opened in Itaewon in 2005. With the rising popularity of Sex and the City and the introduction of the five-day working week, she was in the right place at the right time and with the right idea. While Suji didn’t start out as a chef, she has gone out of her way to learn everything she can about food. She graduated from the French Culinary Institute in 2009 and adopts a hands-on approach to life, even taking the time to learn how to cure her own meats. Her passion and commitment show in the food at Suji’s, especially in their selection of deli meats and their evening menu which focuses more on homestyle American cuisine. Suji is always asking customers their opinions and ideas and tailors her menus to what they want to eat. Talking to her, you get the feeling that you and all the other customers really matter, and that seems to be the real secret of Suji’s. When you come here it feels like family, and Suji Park puts a lot of love into her restaurant.
Food That Feels Like Home W o r ds and sh ot s by Pau l M at t h e w s
Suji Park’s Kimchi Reuben Sandwich Recipe Ingredients
• • • •
2 slices rye bread 5 slices corned beef 20g sautéed kimchi 3 slices swiss cheese
R u ssi a n d r e ssin g
• Chopped pickle 1/2 tbsp • Paprika 1/2 tbsp • Mayonnaise 1 tbsp • Tomato ketchup 1 tbsp • Lemon juice 1 tbsp • Chili sauce 1 tsp Procedure
1 For the Russian dressing, combine mayonnaise and tomato ketchup in a small stainless steel bowl and whisk together for 10 seconds. Then add chopped pickle and paprika. Begin adding the lemon juice and chili sauce, drop by drop, whisking continuously 2 Toast slices of rye bread in the oven, turning to brown evenly. 3 Put a layer of sautéed kimchi over the sliced corned beef, together with dressing. 4 Top with slices of Swiss cheese, then top with the second slice of rye bread. 5 Cut Reuben in half on the diagonal. Serve immediately.
10 Magazine September 2011
Tartine Supplies Itaewon Residents with Authentic American Pies Tartine is protected by ADT CAPS
Tucked away in an alley in Itaewon with an attentiongrabbing sign of a woman’s face, Tartine is already well known as the dessert café among food aficionados in Korea. Tartine was opened by American Chef Garrett and Korean YoungHo Lee, his friend of 10 years, and it is one of the few cafés in Korea that serve authentic American pies. The baked goods at Tartine are not altered to suit Korean tastes, but instead stay faithful to the time-tested recipes of Chef Garrett’s mother. Customers can enjoy the unique flavors, fresh ingredients, and crispy crust of these truly American pies.
The octagonal sign in the yard means absolute safety.
Tartine’s specialty is sweet tarts stuffed with delicious fillings such as blueberries, strawberries, cherries, and pecans. Of these, the sinfully sweet, syrup-laden pecan pie is the favorite of Korean guests. Popular with the ladies is the A La Mode, a slice of pie served up with ice cream. Thanks to its simple taste and charm, the original Itaewon shop has seen considerable success, and now Tartine will expand its business by opening a second shop in early September across from the first location. By introducing new items including a brunch menu which were not available in the first shop, Tartine plans to continue providing classic allAmerican dining options.
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Ex pat Ex per tise
Korea in the Viewfinder
Essential Tools for Expat Photographers Words by Dylan Goldby
hen I first arrived in Seoul, camera in hand, I was overwhelmed by what I saw. Everything here was just eye candy. The neon streets of Jongno and Gangnam, the traditional markets in the corners of town, beautifully built university buildings, and the back alleys had me enamoured. The trouble was, I just couldn’t capture any of it well enough. I couldn’t get the images that explained the places as I saw them. Everything I was shooting was falling short of what I expected. That is, until I found others making images in Korea. There are so many great resources and groups of people in Korea that I wish I had known about way back then, as it would have been a much smoother ride. So here’s a little from me to you. Photogs on th e n e t
From top Jason Teale: The sun rises over Daewangam in Ulsan. Gregory Curley: A lone guard watches over Gyeongbokgung Palace’s front gates. Shawn Parker: Every Jeju sunset seen over Hallasan is as unique as each grain of sand on the island’s endless beaches.
Dylan Goldby: A beautiful young model poses in a TFCD (time for CD) session on the banks of the Han River.
10 Magazine September 2011
The Seoul Photo Club ( flickr.com/groups/seoulphotoclub) is an infinite resource of knowledge and feedback, as well as an all-round great bunch of people. The rules of the group are simple: post an image and give constructive feedback on the two images before yours. This simple rule means everyone gets useful feedback. The photographers in the group are from every skill level and every corner of the globe. The Flickr in Seoul ( flickr.com/groups/flickrinseoul) crew are a little more relaxed about their photography and have frequent social gatherings based around photography outings. If you’re looking for a fantastic group of photographers who get out a lot, these are the people for you! The Seoul Strobist Club ( flickr.com/groups/seoulstrobistclub) are all about off-camera lighting. There’s a wealth of information and links in this group to sort out all of your flashing needs. I recommend reading back through the archives for useful feedback. Blog s l i ke G r ego r y C u rle y’s He r m i t H i de away s (hermithideaways.com) will give you an all-round perspective and some wonderful photography from all over Korea. Jason Teale’s The Sajin ( jasonteale.com/blog) is a great resource for all things photography, and he writes eye-opening walkthroughs for his captivating images. And if you want to catch a glimpse of how we make our covers here at 10 Magazine, there’s always my blog WelkinLight Photography (welkinlight.wordpress.com).
Communit y events and photography lessons
Keep an eye on the Seoul Photo Club over the coming months for our yearly Help Portrait (helpportrait.com) charity event. In our first year, we photographed children at an orphanage, bringing smiles to young faces. In our second year, we turned the tables and made portraits for the elderly. It is a fantastically rewarding, relationship-building experience. This year promises to be our biggest event yet, and everyone is welcome to help out! For those looking to share in the knowledge of working photographers here in Korea, Romin Lee Johnson is putting together a fantastic wedding photography workshop (shift-tilt. com) with Fer Jaurasti and guest speaker David Kim in October. It doesn’t stop there, though. Flash Light Photography Expeditions ( f lashlightexpeditions.com) is offering short courses in portraiture and photography basics along with longer workshops in landscape and flash photography right here on the peninsula. Stock ing u p on equ ipm e nt
Of course, there is also the inevitable shopping element. For readers in Busan, the Nampo-dong area has a great many used and new camera dealers alike. For those up Seoul way, the two places to shop for cameras are Namdaemun Market (there is a camera strip directly across from the Namdaemun Gate itself) and Chungmuro. Namdaemun is very tourist-oriented and it can often be difficult to get a good deal. That’s not to say there are none, though. You’ll need to practice your Korean bargaining skills for some stores, and for the English-speaking stores, you’ll need to push hard. A great place to shop for equipment is Kasan Camera in the Myeongdong Underpass (straight out of ex. 5 at Myeongdong Stn.). Chungmuro is your one-stop film shop, with everything from old equipment and rolls of film to camera repair stores and hand development. Practice ma k e s pe rfect
Once all of that learning and shopping is done, it’s time to put it to good use. Korea is an almost infinite sprawl to explore, and each turn of the road should give you something interesting to shoot. Around Seoul, a couple of good starts can be found in the backstreets of Jongno, the coffee shops of Samcheong-dong, the Han River Parks, the street markets, and Heyri Art Village. But Korea has something to explore around every corner. If I had known about even one of these resources when I started here, I would have jumped for joy. Here it is, all in one place, ready for you to sink your teeth into. What are you waiting for? Happy shooting! 10 Magazine September 2011 | 19
Three Must-Sea Aquariums
Who hasn’t wanted to walk around on the bottom of the ocean? The next best thing is visiting an aquarium to see ferocious denizens of the deep in tanks that are similar to (if slightly smaller than) their actual homes. Among Korea’s aquariums, the three reviewed below have the largest floor space and the most critters and are guaranteed to keep you out of the summer heat for the longest amount of time.
63 Sea World
Words by Shea Karssing, shots provided by 63 Sea World
Words and shots by Jason Teale
Although it is stashed away underneath 60 gleaming floors of skyscraper, 63 Sea World is nothing to look down on. This safari of the sea, located in the basement of the iconic 63 Building, was Korea’s first public aquarium. Opened in 1985, 63 Sea World boasts 20,000 critters and 54 aquarium displays. The first to welcome you under the sea are a loggerhead turtle and jackass penguins (aptly named for their obnoxious bellows). Other favorites include the piranhas, otters, undulating octopus and leathery moray eels. The 42-meter migratory tank holds 200 tons of water, as well as a number of species of fish that circulate the tank like sentries, eyeing visitors cautiously. Make sure to time your visit to the aquarium to coincide with the harbor seal show. A diver in the seal tank directs a seal around a playground of hoops, swings and even a see-saw. You can watch these blubbery beasts glide into action at 12, 2, 4, and 6 pm, with an additional 7 pm show on Saturdays and Sundays. There is also a penguin feeding show at 3:30 pm. If you are looking for a climactic shark tank, Sea World is probably not your cup of sea, but the aquarium is definitely worth taking a peek at as part of your 63 Building experience. The aquarium is open from 10 am to 10 pm. 63 Building is a short bus or taxi ride from Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 4) and Saetgang Stn. (line 9, ex. 3).
What lies beneath one of Korea’s top beaches? Sharks! I recommend that you take the escalator down into the depths of the Busan Aquarium. The stylish underground aquarium will not only give you a break from the heat but engage your mind and curiosity as well. The Busan Aquarium is situated at the apex of Haeundae Beach and thus is quite easy to find, even if you are unfamiliar with the area. The entrance fee at W18,000 for adults may seem a little high, but it’s well worth the cost. Few aquariums in Korea have such an interesting design or boast over 250 different species of aquatic life. The deep coral reef tank is a great place to sit and watch life under the sea. However, you don’t want to miss out on the main attraction—the sharks! There is a main tank surrounded by an 80meter long tunnel, giving you the feeling of being surrounded by sharks without ever getting wet (or bitten). For those seeking more of an adventure, you can also go diving with the sharks through Scuba in Korea. Bookings and pricing can be found at scubainkorea.com. The aquarium is a 5-minute walk from Haeundae Stn. (line 2). • 1411-4 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan. busanaquarium.com 051-740-1700
• 60 Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu. Seoul 63.co.kr 02-789-5663
10 Magazine September 2011
Images provided by 63 Sea World and Coex Aquarium. * Shots by Marco Combs
Do you wanna become a
Certifed Pilates Instructor?
Sign-up for the instructor training course in November 2011.
Words by Marissa Willman and shots by Marco Combs
Seeing a fish in a toilet bowl is usually reminiscent of flushing a childhood pet to its watery grave, but at Coex Aquarium, exhibits like this place a unique spin on the aquarium experience. Located inside the bustling Coex shopping mall, this aquarium features 14 different themed exhibits that house roughly 40,000 creatures. More than 650 different species from around the world are housed at the aquarium, including the only West African manatees and Australian leafy seadragons in Korea. The facility also boasts the largest penguin tank in the country and a rare twoheaded turtle. In addition to toilets, fish are housed in refrigerators, vending machines, computers and street lights in the Fishâ€™s Wonderland exhibit, an area where fish are integrated into items from everyday life. In the Underwater Tunnel exhibit, sting rays, sharks and turtles swim overhead as visitors walk through a tunnel built into the massive 2,000-ton tank. Visitors can watch nature in action during the daily feedings, when piranhas devour a whole chicken in seconds and divers perform magic tricks with tens of thousands of sardines. Feeding performances are also held at the shark, seal, penguin, manatee and sea otter exhibits. The facility is quite large at over 9,000 square meters and it can get crowded, so plan on at least 1.5 hours to tour the entire aquarium. The entrance to the Coex mall is found in Samsung Stn. (line 2). â€˘ 159 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. coexaqua.com 02-6002-6200
t Chiropractic t Medical Pilates (Rehabilitation) t Therapeutic Massage
t Facial Treatment t Conscious Care t e-Iridology t Yoga
Beautiful Health, NY Wholistic Care
T. 02. 792. 2296 Office Hour M-F: 8a~9p Sat: 8a~5p www.nywc.co.kr
Live without PAIN
POSCO Aquarium 890-34 POSCO Center, Daechi-dong, Gangnam-gu.
Daejeon Aquaworld 198-14 Jung-gu, Daesa-dong, Daejeon. djaqua.co.kr 042-252-4300
Fisheries Science Museum 152-1 Haean-ro, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun, Busan. fsm.nfrda.re.kr 051-720-3061
Jeoll a Province
Yeosu Maritime & Fisheries Science Museum 2876 Dolsan-ro, Yeosu. jmfsm.or.kr 061-644-4136
Uljin Aquarium 346 Susan-ri, Geunnam-myeon, Uljin-gun. expo.uljin.go.kr 054-789-5500 10 Magazine September 2011 | 21
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Korean Desti nation
The Ultimate Island Escape Saseungbong-do 사승봉도 W o r ds and sh ot s by L i sa X i n g
There is no electricity. No plumbing. The only potable water is in the bottles you bring. The only bath you can take is a dip in the sea. There are no bungalows, motels, hotels. And for any other essentials—you’re out of luck if you don’t bring them with you. Proper paradise
If you know Korea well, you’ll know even the best representation of natural wonders are paved and pruned. And getting away from the buzz of city life often means leaving the city for a place just as bustling—just with a different address. Korea is teeming with islands off its coasts—from the southern belle Jeju-do to the popular weekend destination of Muuido (무의도) in the West Sea. Most of these islands are filled with families seeking relief from the summer heat and smog. But, two hours away from the coast of Incheon is a proper paradise. And it’s literally filled to the brim with, well, nothing.
Incheon Int’l Airport Yeongjong Isl.
i n che o n Jawol Isl.
Daeijak Isl. Saseungbong Island
10 Magazine September 2011
The appeal of Saseungbong-do is exactly this: bring everything you need and leave no trace once you depart. Save for the owner of the private island, there is virtually no one else there because it is such a trek. Because of this, we had the entire stretch of beach to ourselves, save for one other group that was way around the corner. We set up one tent right by the water and another for cooking. Life of the castaway
Believe it or not, there are a plethora of activities on this island that boasts no modern facilities. When I went, the weather was perfect for camping—hot during the day, comfortable at night, though you may wake up early with the sun as it tends to get hot inside the tent. Swimming is always an option, though the water temperature tends to be a little cool, especially in the early summer months. By the evening, the tide retreats so much you’re left with kilometers of beach that were submerged in the morning, perfect for strolls on the ocean bed. Low tide is also the prime time for clam digging. Bring a spade fork or shovel and start looking for air bubbles popping up from the sand. We came back with buckets full of clams. Wrap them up in foil and cook them over a campfire for supper. Another advantage of having nothing is you’re forced to go back to basics. Why not bring a ball to toss around or a deck of
cards? In the morning, I woke up and went running along the beach and found a little cove to stretch in the morning sun. Bring the essentials
There are no amenities on the island, except a well, though the water isn’t potable. Because of this, it’s important to remember to bring everything you need—toilet paper included since you’ll be forced to dig a hole behind a boulder at some point. Along with a jug of water and lots of snacks, we also brought a portable grill, which let us cook some pretty lavish meals like spaghetti for dinner and pancakes in the morning. However, there are others who just caught fish and grilled them, served up with a generous helping of soju, of course. That’s the point of Saseungbong-do—eat, drink, sleep, and of course, swim. It’s also easy to scrounge around for pieces of wood for a campfire at night. We did exactly that—built a campfire, roasted the clams we dug up earlier in the day and sang songs. You don’t need too many personal items. Just bring a tent, a cooler, drinks and mostly non-perishable food and you’re set for a weekend that will make the bustle of Korea seem like an ocean away. Getting there Getting to Saseungbong-do is a bit of a challenge. The easiest way is to join the travel meetup group in Seoul (meetup.com/travel-715), as the coordinator organizes annual trips there every summer. You can also attempt it on your own, but it’s tricky, from what I hear from friends who’ve tried. Take Line 1 to Incheon Station (not Incheon Airport Station). From here, take bus number 720 to the Incheon Coastal Ferry Terminal (인천항 연안여객터미널, dom.icferry.or.kr). From the terminal, buy a ticket for Seungbong-do (승봉도). This trip will take two hours. From here, the only way to get to the smaller island of Saseungbong-do is to hire a fishing boat, as there are no docks. Cost The meetup group generally costs about W80,000 for transportation and food. Transportation alone, including boat rides and fees for using the private island is about W60,000.
10 Magazine September 2011 | 23
dine and drink
You Just Gotta Love Banchan! W o r d s by S t e p h e n R e v e r e
anchan—side dishes that automatically come with any main course you order with free refills to boot! Could there be a cooler aspect of Korean culture? Granted, some places will just put out some tired, salty kimchi and a few other weird dishes that even Koreans just pick at. They’re probably in a fancy building in Gangnam-gu and pay too much for their rent, so they make up for it by dropping food quality. But around the corner there’s sure to be a dive in an older building that will serve up four to six of the beauties below for the same price or less. You can tell whether you’ve found one by the fact that it’s crowded. Another good tip: more items on the menu likely means lower quality. Find a restaurant with under
five items on the menu, and you’ve likely found one of the best restaurants in the gu (구, district). There are a few Korean words you need to know for meals that revolve around banchan and therefore must serve up some good ones: baekban (백반) and bapsang ( 밥상). Baekban is a cheap, basic Korean meal that will have up to a half dozen banchan along with a bowl of rice and a little soup. Koreans will complain that it’s just like the food their mom makes, while I rejoice as I love this healthy food that I’m too busy to make myself. And if you see the word bapsang, then it probably means there will be a lot more banchan with the meal, up to 20 or more in smaller portions. Another occasion for one to rejoice.
Salted and Fermented Squid
오징어젓갈 ojingeo jeotgal
감자조림 gamja jorim
From planting their pot ted kimchi in the ground to freeze-drying their fish and vegetables, Koreans have traditionally been absolute artists when it comes to food preservation. This marinated and heavily salted squid will virtually last forever, but have some rice ready before diggin’ in, and avoid it if you have high blood pressure.
Who knew that if you sliced radish up into thin strips and let it dry out it would turn into a totally different taste? Usually purchased already dried from the store, after a little boiling up and seasoning this ultra-crunchy banchan has a tad of sweetness added to the obvious spice.
Potatoes may be expensive here, but that doesn’t seem to stop restaurateurs from serving them. The mixture of soy sauce, corn syrup and/or sugar topped with a little sesame oil and sesame seeds makes for a delicious but unique potato flavor, different from the usual sour cream and butter.
Pickled Perilla Leaf
깻잎절임 kkaenip jeorim
콩나물 kong namul
A rare find in the rest of the world, you’re quite likely to find the soy sauce and red peppermarinated version on your dinner table here. Shock Koreans by telling them that it’s not actually sesame leaf but perilla, a plant from the mint family. Then enjoy its fresh, applemint flavor.
There’s a reason women get less breast cancer in Asia, and it’s called tofu. Okay, it’s not quite that simple, but it’s a huge factor. And when they panfry it then sprinkle some soy sauce seasoned with green onions and sesame oil on top of your tofu, eating healthy tastes great too.
Being that they are cheap, healthy, delicious and easy to prepare, it’s easy to see why this is a nearly ubiquitous banchan. Boil the sprouts up, mix with garlic, soy sauce and other seasonings, sprinkle with some sesame seeds and voila! The customers love it and free refills don’t hurt a bit.
배추김치 baechu kimchi
A personal favorite. You’re in for a treat if you’ve never had lotus root before. This Swiss cheese-looking root can run the gamut of flavors and textures, from crispy to mushy or salty to sweet, depending on how long it’s cooked or how much soy sauce and corn syrup they used in the sauce.
What does the doctor always tell you to eat? Leafy greens. That’s what namul are, though the term applies to a slightly wider variety of plant life, including some things that aren’t green. Suffice it to say that when veggies are blanched or pan-fried and then seasoned they are often referred to as namul.
On the off chance you haven’t tried kimchi, do. And then do again and again. The first time it may be a little off-putting, but as with most great flavors it’s an acquired taste. That wonderful smell when they open the fridge—that’s just the fermentation process making itself known.
24 | 10 Magazine September 2011
Napa Cabbage Kimchi
whole Radish Kimchi
총각김치 chonggak kimchi
가지볶음 gaji bokkeum
The Napa cabbage version of k im chi is of c ou r s e the s tuf f of world renown, but the radish forms are no less delicious. “Bachelor kimchi”—so - called be cause the gre en shoots at the end resemble the ponytail of bachelors in the Joseon-dynasty—is spicy and salty like regular kimchi but the Korean radish it’s made with gives it a pungent kick.
Italians, rejoice! You can get plenty of eggplant here and it’s delicious, although it’s usually the Japanese variety, which is more narrow and cylindrical than fat and egg-shaped. Its shape leads to a more typical thick, julienned cut when they sauté it, leaving more skin on it.
멸치볶음 myeolchi bokkeum
Anchovies are the perfect way to add a little saltiness to whatever you’re eating, and with polyunsaturated fish oil, plenty of vitamin E and D, and minerals like calcium and selenium, they’re like crunching your way through your daily multi.
Who doesn’t like pan-fried veggies? Jeon (전) is pretty much e g g - bat te re d a nd de e p -f r ie d anything. Often the best Korean chefs (read “mom”) will batter and fry up cod, mushrooms and tofu in this way, but the most common kind is usually hobak—zucchini. For more on jeon, see our Taste of Korea article on p. 14.
Stir-fried Fish Cake
오뎅볶음 odeng bokkeum
Egg is gyeran (계란), and mari (말 이) means rolled up, so gyeranmari is rolled-up eggs. An egg and veggie mixture is poured into a pan and then af ter it’s cooked a bit it’s rolled up into a cylindrical shape. Gotta love it when this shows up.
Fish pancake, fish hotdog, fish donuts—whatever you call it, odeng sautéed up with a little onion, green onion or carrots is a delicious little side dish. Of course, since it’s ground fish paste mixed with flour and deep fried, it’s not necessarily the healthiest of the dishes on your table.
Shots by Judith Clancy*, Jason Teale†, Julia Mellor‡ 10 Magazine September 2011 | 25
Valid through September 30th, 2011
Kissing in the Hermit Kingdom Dating, Mating, and Sogaeting
26 10 Magazine September 2011
Words by David Volodzko Models for this page are Laura Bostwick Pettyjohn and Allen Pettyjohn.
shots by Dominique Buck
In a culture where failure is frowned on and face is paramount, dating doesn’t work out quite as you would expect.
orea is a difficult place to be single, by which I mean a difficult place to get out of being single. You may already have walked into a hof (호프 , Korean pub) and wondered where the bar was or noticed the lack of mingling at a local club. Yet all around are couples photographing each other in cafes or sharing ice cream on the sidewalk. Where are all these kids meeting? Or maybe you’ve already met someone, a girl who giggles like a high school student when you try to hold her hand or a fellow who acts too shy to even say hello. Living abroad can be lonely enough without such problems, but fortunately they’re not that difficult to dodge. According to psychologist Harry Triandis, certain cultures are more particular about whom you marry or how you dress. They stress obedience. As a result, social ties are stronger and reputation more important. Why this matters is because in such cultures the last thing you want to do is find yourself in an awkward social situation. This essentially is what defines the Korean dating scene. Here, practice does not make perfect. Here, you are not supposed to learn from your mistakes. You’re supposed to know better than to make them in the first place. Consider that while it may be awkward for the average Western teen learning to date, at least for them it’s okay to be bad at it. They’re supposed to be bad at it. Just think how much exposure young Westerners have to potential partners: in high school classrooms, on varsity teams, at school dances, at house parties or in nightclubs. Forty percent of Korean high school students, on the other hand, go to single-sex schools, most are too busy for extra-curricular activities, high schools in Korea don’t do dances, house parties are non-existent, and nightclubs are prohibitively expensive. The result is many don’t begin dating until well into their 20s and by the time they do few have had experience interacting with potential partners. On top of all this, Korean society is mercilessly unforgiving of faux pas. Just ask anyone who has taught English in Korea how difficult it can be to get students to raise their hands and risk making a mistake in front of others. So without having had the “benefit” of a Western-style crash course in awkwardness, most Koreans reach the end of their high school years assuming they’re probably better off avoiding the ordeal in the first place. Maybe they’re right. Thus, instead of venturing out and approaching strangers in crowded clubs, the preferred method involves looking for desirable partners from within the safety of one’s social group. Friends, classmates and co -workers are the pools f rom which many draw their future partA more aggressive ners. It’s rare to meet a stranger, way to meet strangers say, in a bar (though it does happen, is called “hunting.” and increasingly at that). This is why few Korean pubs feature actual This is where brave bars where strangers can mingle— young guys approach you’re meant to sit with the people attractive women in you came in with. 5=;@9 public 5A =D places with But for all their newness to dating (and romantic love), Koreans pick-up lines or $)+&++#+ rush forward with both arms open. a`Va`Y prepared scripts. Imagine the enormous pressure Wag^]adWS 5SXW4W` involved in dating for the first time, without having had much or any experience, and being expected to perform flawlessly right out of the gates. Koreans have cleva`7j[f$ EfSf[ erly found several ways around this problem. The first is sogaet;fSWia`
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10 Magazine September 2011 | 27
ing (소개팅), a blind date with a twist. To avoid going out on a limb and risking rejection, you have a friend set up a meeting between you and your potential partner. Or maybe it was your friend’s idea to put the two of you together. This is in most respects a typical blind date—dinner, conversation. In general, if you know a Korean you’d like to get to know more, it won’t hurt to go through a mutual friend before asking them out directly. Men are usually expected to make the first move here, or at least get the girl’s number from a friend, after which the preferred method of contact is texting (again because this avoids the pressure of being rejected or having to reject someone). A more casual method of meeting people is simply known as a “meeting” (미팅), where a group of young people (usually high school students or university freshmen) meet in a larger social setting of maybe five or ten, always with an even number of boys and girls. A variation on the theme of double-dating, essentially. This is popular with first-year university students since some majors can by default be sexually segregated. For example, electronics majors usually end up being mostly guys while the design department typically consists of girls, so you might have a group of five electronics majors sharing dinner with five design majors. Another option is matseonbogi (맞선보기), usually for thirtysomethings seeking marriage. Here, the parents often already know one another and act as the matchmakers. This can be a casual one-on-one affair over dinner or a more formal familyto-family meeting. Either way, it avoids the risk of rejection and social loss of face by establishing ahead of time that the purpose of the meeting is, in most cases, to confirm that both parties are interested in marriage. If you’re sure this is the one for you but are too shy to appraoch them yourself, matseonbogi might be the best method for you. You may have noticed these methods have one thing in common: they avoid risk by confirming expectations. Whether it’s a
friend vouching for you, the safety of your peers, or the interests of your family, you aren’t going this alone. You aren’t out there simply looking for someone with no clear idea ahead of time what you want from the relationship. But this is how many Westerners approach dating. They don’t make up their minds what they want until the third date or even later, and many date simply for the sake of dating itself. These practices are beginning to settle into Korean culture, though they aren’t common yet. But for those simply looking to meet an interesting stranger and see how the first few dates go, you do have options. Five years ago online chatting was the most popular method, where the techno-smart youth of Korea made first contact with total strangers and were able to bend and even break the rules of social acceptability while saving face behind Internet anonymity. However, these days it’s fallen out of use since, as in the West, people’s online personas don’t always match what you find when you meet them in real life. A more aggressive option is “hunting” (헌팅), where brave young guys approach attractive women in public places with pick-up lines or prepared scripts. But perhaps the easiest way to meet people is by heading to venues where it’s tacitly understood everyone else is there to meet people too: social bars or night clubs in Hongdae, Itaewon or Gangnam, for example. If you’re entering the Korean dating scene, being able to speak the language can only help. Other than that, remember to smile and don’t mistake Korean “shyness” for anything other than a desire to avoid losing face in a culture that prizes face above all else. It’s a dynamic environment where cultural barriers are continually coming apart and being reformed. Whether you’re seeking a night of fun, a commitment-free relationship, a steady partner or a spouse, remember to approach with understanding and know that while your options are open, they are also defined by the context.
Dating Across the Great Divide Three Americans who are dating Koreans share their thoughts on the pros and cons of cross-cultural relationships. Laur a Neal & KiM Yong-hwan “When Yonghwan and I decided to introduce one another to our closest friends, we didn’t know the challenges it would bring. It was a new realization that, though we never really viewed ourselves as being different, we were. How could two people from opposite sides of the world share so much in common, yet be so different at the same time? Even though the language barrier has been present, we never allowed it to be anything other than an opportunity to learn more from each other. Actually, it has made our communication all the better. Everything we say is special because of the effort we both put into understanding and accepting. Over time, meeting with friends has become more comfortable for the both of us.”
Geoffrey Fattig & Kim Hyun-jin
28 10 Magazine September 2011
“I met my girlfriend at a language exchange club in Shinchon about a year ago. I think the fact that we are both actively trying to learn about the other’s language and culture has been one of the reasons that our relationship works so well. It keeps things fresh when you are constantly learning, and I really appreciate the effort she makes to learn English and find out more about where I’m from. Of course the language difference can present some problems, but I think dating a girl whose first language isn’t English has made me more patient and a better communicator.”
Looking for Love Interested in dating but not sure where to begin? Here are a few tips to start you off. 1 Break Out of Itaewon and Hongdae Try the neighborhoods around Geondae (건대, Konkuk University) or Goryeodae (고려대, Koryo University). If you’re looking for a change of scene, these vibrant areas will do the trick. 2 Join a club Whether it’s Japanese fencing or ultimate frisbee, a club (and we’re not talking discotheques) is a great way to meet people with whom you have something in common. 3 Take a class Short-term classes are being offered all the time. Some of my favorites have involved learning how to make makgeolli (막걸리, rice wine) and play the gayageum (가야금). 4 Study Korean Being able to speak even a little Korean will vastly broaden your social horizons. 5 Join a dating website There’s no other way to filter though thousands of candidates based on personal preferences in a matter of minutes. 6 Leverage your network Don’t be afraid to let your Korean friends or coworkers know that you’re looking. They’ll likely be happy to set you up with someone. 7 Attend sporting events Koreans love sports and the enthusiasm they give off at games is stunning, never mind the fact that they’re a great place to meet new people. 8 Hit the beach Koreans by the sea are a more laid-back and social group—case in point: Busan. Buses and trains are cheap and the seafood is always worth the trip. 9 Dress well Here’s a harmless social experiment: try a night out looking like you’re ready for a job interview or auditioning for a part in Mad Men and see if you don’t get more attention. 10 Be honest Are you just interested in a few dates? Something more? There are bound to be different expectations in any cross-cultural courtship, so getting things straight as early as possible is often a good move.
Megan Bandosz & Kim Nam-ha “I’d be kidding if I said he wasn’t the biggest reason I returned to Korea for a second year, or that when I lose sight of what’s really important in life he didn’t remind me. It’s the most fulfilling relationship I’ve ever been in! I’d say the greatest challenge is with friends and family back home. My best friend in the states thinks of my boyfriend as my imaginary friend because she’s never met him. And I’ve got a hunch that my family is worrying I’ll be staying in Korea for quite a bit longer than they had expected—and they might be right. I hope our trip to the USA this summer will ease some minds and result in some awesome memories!”
10 Magazine September 2011 | 29
E dited by DAV I D CA R RU T H and j i su n m o o n
Hand-Picked Chuseok Gift Sets
Imperial Palace Hotel Celebrating Chuseok, the Imperial Palace Hotel presents three ultimate gift sets with items including hanwoo (한우, Korean beef), galbi (갈비, ribs), marinated abalone, smoked salmon and red wine. Guests can find a variety of items at different price points, to suit virtually any budget. From carefully selected short ribs to a classy wine set, a variety of gift sets are ready to satisfy every guest’s taste (W90,000 – W5,000,000). Hotel and buffet vouchers are available as well (W10,000 – W300,000). imperialpalace.co.kr 02-3440-8000
Club Horizon Special Promotion
Renaissance Seoul Hotel Club Horizon is presenting a special promotion from 6 to 9 pm daily. The sky lounge is offering customers the benefit of a “buy one, get one free” promotion for every glass of standard drinks, as well as discounts on bottles of whisky and all snacks. Customers celebrating a birthday and spending more than W300,000 will receive a cake and sparkling wine worth W100,000 as a special present. renaissanceseoul.com 02-2222-8639
German Food and Fine Beer at 2011 Oktoberfest Grand Hilton Seoul
This traditional German beer festival is going to be better than ever before with The Paulaner Oktoberfest Band flown in directly by Lufthansa from Munich. Enjoy unlimited fizzy Paulaner beer and a selection of fabulous German foods including cold dishes. Dig into a crispy pork leg with apple bacon sauce, roasted duck with red cabbage and of course German sausages. September 23rd - 24th. 6 pm. W120,000. grandhiltonseoul.com 02-2287-7456
“Progressive Dinner”: A Gastronomic Journey
Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas With the Progressive Dinner, guests can enjoy some of the most popular dishes in the hotel’s various eateries. The journey begins at Lobby Lounge with a drink and continues to Caffe Espresso for a fresh appetizer, followed by a fine-dining experience at Table34 for the main course. Enjoy the nightscape of the city along with a progressive cocktail at Silk Road Club. Available every Saturday evening through November 30th for W120,000++. seoul.intercontinental.com 02-559-7631
Guest Chef Fills Olivo with Tuscan Ambiance Yummy Dining Options at “Yum Thai” Event
Courtyard by Marriott Seoul MoMo Café will offer delicious lunch and dinner items with enough variety and quantity to satisfy all lovers of Thai cuisine. The Yum Thai Lunch (W29,000++) is stuffed with five mouth-watering Thai salads and the seven main courses consist of Pad Thai and Pad See Ew. The five-course Yum Thai set dinners are both priced for two (Set A W79,000++, Set B W89,000++). September 5th - October 31st. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3081
10 Magazine September 2011
JW Marriott Seoul
Chef Polidori will prepare an unforgettable gala dinner and teach two Tuscan cooking classes in Seoul. Five dishes in his six-course gala dinner are complemented by handpicked Italian wines. The gala dinner set will be available on September 22nd for W160,000++. Two Saturday Cooking classes will be held on September 17th and 24th and the entry fee is W100,000++, running from 9 am – 11 am. jw-marriott.co.kr 02-6282-6765.
Happy Hour at Oakwood
Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul Get away from the hustle and bustle of the city in the evening and relax with your favorite drinks. The Residents’ Lounge – the Bar at Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul – provides 2 for 1 Happy Hour on Thursdays and Fridays from 6 pm to 9 pm. There will be a variety of snacks to choose from. Also, there is a pool table to enjoy at any time. oakwoodpremier.co.kr 02-3466-7000
+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge
Blockbuster Korean Show “Legend of Flower II”
Sheraton Grand Walkerhill Legend of Flower at the Sheraton Grand Walkerhill Hotel has been described as a “premiere theatre show” and “Asia’s leading grandscale show.” The updated version of this open-run show premieres on September 1st, offering guests a fabulous mix of traditional Korean dances, b-boy dances, and martial arts sequences. It is the ultimate Korean cultural dinner show, combining an enchanting show with a savory Korean dinner. W60,000 – W300,000. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000
Yousuf Karsh, Audrey Hepburn 1956, gelatin silver print © Estate of Yousuf Karsh
Make Your Holiday All the More Pleasant
Grand Hyatt Seoul Grand Hyatt Seoul is offering a special package and a wide array of Chuseok hampers to help you make the most of your holidays. The package features one night’s relaxing accommodation in a grand double or twin room, complimentary use of the hotel’s gym and pool, and free shuttle service to Namsangol Traditional Village. Also, enjoy a lunch or dinner buffet for two at The Terrace for an additional charge of W80,000++. 9/9 – 9/13. W150,000++. 02-799-8888. Chuseok Hampers available 9/5 – 9/13 at The Deli. Prices range from W250,000+ to W450,000+. hyatt.com 02-799-8167
Promotions at EXCO, Daegu, and Wonju
Hotel Inter-Burgo With the Hotel Inter-Burgo Daegu’s Thanksgiving Day Package, guests receive a piece of songpyeon (송편, traditional rice cake) along with a 50% discount at the sauna and pool (W150,000). Meanwhile at the Hotel InterBurgo EXCO, book a deluxe room and get two tickets to the Karsh photo exhibition (W122,000). Both available 9/1 – 9/30. Finally, the Pyeongchang 2018 Package at the Wonju branch allows guests to play free 9-hole golf and enjoy free drinks (W119,800), available through 11/30. ibhotel.com 02-425-5678 10 Magazine September 2011 | 31
Expat News September 2011
Shinhan’s Bank’s New Foreign Customer Department
Since March 2010, the staff at the Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center have been studying the needs of for-
Sometimes pre-gaming can be just as entertaining as the game itself. That’s the plan with the Expat’s Festival, sponsored by FC Seoul, 10 Magazine, and the Seoul Global Center and taking place on September 24th. Of course, the main event here is the soccer game between last year’s K-League champions FC Seoul and the Daejeon Citizens, which is expected to bring more than 10,000 foreigners to the stands of Seoul World Cup Stadium (located near the subway station of the same name). But while the teams will face off at 5 pm, you’ll be missing half the fun if you wait till then to show up. Starting at 2 pm, the Event Zone in the North Plaza (near exit 2 of the station) will be the site of booths representing sponsoring businesses, a world food bazaar, and tons of events. Start out by touring the booths to see what kind of freebies you can pick up from Lotte World, Walkerhill, and of course 10 Magazine. The best freebies, of course, are the edible kind. Everyone’s favorite wholesaler Costco will have enough food for 10,000 people, OB Beer will be serving 10,000 cups of beer, Caffé Bene will be pouring 10,000 cups of coffee, and there will even be 10,000 bananas for the taking—and all of it free! You can also catch performances by b-boys, DJs, pop groups, beatbox masters, and graffiti artists or join in soccer, traditional games, facepainting, and other fun activities. Of course, don’t forget about the free beer and hot dog that come with your admission to the game, and all that for only W10,000 (already a discount from the normal ticket price of W12,000). All the details about how to pick up your ticket can be found on the 10 Magazine website at 10mag.com/expatsfestival.
10 Magazine September 2011
Achieve Your Financial Goals with Argentum Wealth Management
From left to right: Lloyd Danon, Martin Zotta, and Erin Nelson.
Argentum Wealth Management is an independent financial planning firm based in Tokyo that provides personal investment advice and solutions to individuals living and work-
ing outside of their home countries. Whether you’ve just arrived in Seoul, have been here a while, or are looking to move somewhere else, Argentum can provide guidance in areas such as your retirement, kid’s education, regular and lump sum investments, portfolio management, estate planning and more. Their senior advisors travel to Seoul regularly and would be happy to meet with you. For a free personal financial review at your place of work, central Seoul, or over the phone, you can contact them at firstname.lastname@example.org. argentumwealth.com Shot by Dylan Goldby
At Expats’ Festival, Fun Starts Before the Game Does
eign customers, developing detailed product overviews in English, designing training sessions, and preparing for the launch of the new Foreign Customer Department at Shinhan Bank. Brian (Bok-Sun Hwang), the previous head of Seoul Global Center, will lead the new depar tment along with its highly successful social media pages—Facebook (Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center), Twitter (@ShinhanBankSGC), and LinkedIn (Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center).
Media Giant GroupM Enters Korean Market
This past August 10th, floating restaurant Fradia on the Han River was the site of the launch party for WPP’s media division GroupM, which was celebrating the simultaneous Korean opening of its four media agency brands Maxus, MEC, Mediacom and Mindshare. GroupM manages USD $83 billion of media investment with 18,000 employees in offices spread throughout 81 countries. In Korea,
the agency works with 30 leading global brands including Audi, Dell, and LG Electronics. Mark Patterson, GroupM Asia-Pacific’s CEO since 2009, says in launching the organization that he sought to avoid “the smoke and mirrors approach of other international media groups” with a presence in Korea. “We will build a high-calibre, profitable, market-leading business.”
Edited by Dav i d Carruth
Haddon House Discount Among Benefits with Citi Cards It’s always challenging to be living away from home in a country where everyone speaks a different language. That’s why it’s such a relief to find places like Hannam-dong’s Haddon House, a popular supermarket for expats living in Seoul that provides hard-to-find items ranging from tortillas to Thanksgiving turkeys. But it’s even more challenging to conduct your financial affairs in a foreign language, which is why Citibank has prepared a complete range of services in English so expatriates feel right at home. Citi Cards English-Language Service includes SMS notifications, e-statements, internet and mobile banking, and a 24/7 CitiPhone customer service line. And for your grocery needs, Citibank is renewing its 5% discount promotion with Haddon House for one more year from September 1st. Customers with the Citibank credit card can enjoy 5% off their bill at the supermarket. citibank.co.kr/eng 02-2004-1004
Signups Open for Seoul Basketball League S e oul’s only civilia n Englis h - sp e a k ing basketball league is returning for another season. Kicking off on October 1st, the 5v5 league runs on Saturday afternoons, officiated by professional referees in a brand new gym. Leading up to the start date, anyone is welcome to the open gyms held from 1 – 5 pm Saturday afternoons, so get in some runs, check out the facilities, and meet other players. The league signup deadline is Monday, September 12th. For more info, check out facebook.com/recROK or email recROK@gmail.com.
N e wc o m e r
Whether you’re new here or a veteran of years, you can relate to these new arrivals to the peninsula. With 25 years of experience in the hotel industry spent in 5-star establishments across Europe and Asia, Alfonso Romero arrives in Korea as the General Manger at the Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul. Since Mr. Romero hails from Spain, it’s no surprise that he likes to spend his Friday nights enjoying a plate of tapas with some Spanish red wine. But he has also been trying to learn more about Korean culture and food, and he has already developed a taste for bibimbap and OB beer. During his spare time, he plans on jogging on Namsan and playing tennis with his friends. 10 Magazine September 2011 | 33
Gastronomic News Edited by K you ng - hee Li m and Dav i d Carruth
Tapas Thursdays at the Banyan Tree’s Festa Bar When the working day is done, girls just want to have a tasty plate of tapas. To fulfill your Thursday night fantasy, visit the Festa Bar at the Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul. Guests receive four tapas per person and two bottles of the newly launched Peroni Italian beer for W40,000 per person from 6 – 11 pm. Choose your tapas from a selection of eight options, including herb goat cheese and prosciutto, serrano ham and potato croquette, and fried squid with anchovy dressing and parsley pesto. email@example.com 02-2250-8000
Double the Pleasure on Western Treats at High Street Market Homesick? There are plenty of foreign restaurants scattered throughout the peninsula. But sometimes, nothing feels more like home than snacks that you remember munching on back in your home countr y. Often, these hard-tofind products can be out of your budget because of import taxes. Fortunately, High Street Market is having a promotion to fill that void. With the 1+1 Special, you can get two of any of the following delicious treats for the price of one: Weetabix Minis, Sun-Maid Raisins, Alpen Cereal Bars, and Flav-R-Pac Frozen Vegetables & Fruits. Indulge in your alltime favorites without breaking the bank. highstreet.co.kr 02-790-5450
A New Home for Marakech Night’s Middle Eastern Cuisine
10 Magazine September 2011
Korea Finally Get a Taste of Italian Beer Peroni You may be passionate about Italian design, fashion, and luxury cars, but how much do you know about its beer? Italy’s number one premium beer Peroni Nastro Azzurro has finally arrived in Korea. Though Peroni may be a newcomer to the Seoul scene, it has long been appreciated by gastronomes in New York, London, Sydney, and other cities. Italians have been drinking the stuff since the first Peroni brewery was established in 1846 near the city of Pavia. Peroni is a super premium lager, 5.1% in alcohol by volume, with a crisp and refreshing taste created by top quality ingredients such as Italian maize, Czech hops, and barley malt. As of August 1st, chef Rhiti Mostafa’s delicious Moroccan cuisine has moved even closer to the hear t of Itaewon. Formerly located next to the Cheil Building, the restaurant run by the former head chef of the Moroccan Embassy can now be found on the 2nd floor just south of the subway station past Taco Bell. The menu is mostly the same, but there’s now a lunch special that should bring the crowds flocking: a Moroccan sandwich, French fries, and a salad for W8,000. Open every day from 11 am until late. Main dishes run from W10,000 – W30,000. marakechnight.com 02-795-9441
Eat-A-Won What’s New in the Food Scene W o r ds by DAVI D C A R R UT H
Shots by Eun-gyu Choi at Meatpacking
If you’re tired of heading to the same ol’ restaurants in Itaewon, this section will be a big boon. We’ve scoured the foreigner-friendly district to bring you the latest and tastiest culinary developments.
All That Jazz Jazz Bar There’s more auditory than gustatory pleasure at this long-running jazz club, though you can’t go wrong with their homemade pizza. All That Jazz has moved to the former location of lounge Mu: stop by for live music every day of the week. Recommended: the music allthatjazz.kr 02-795-5701. 3F 112-4 Itaewon-dong.
Meatpacking Western All you meat lovers will not want to miss this one. Meatpacking serves all-you-can-eat top-quality beef, chicken, and pork, and you get to choose the cut. Recommended: Meat Packer Steak, meat-packing.co.kr 02-794-9919. 124-6 Itaewon-dong.
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Bubble Tree Pub This new lounge is bringing the bubbly to the alley behind the Hamilton. Stop by to see how the drinks and crowd stack up to favorites like 3 Alley Pub, Scrooge, and Bungalow. Recommended: sparkling wine blog.naver.com/bubbletree28 02-790-5054. 119-28 Itaewon-dong.
* * * Grill Western
The Hamilton Hotel has got rooms to sleep in and stores to shop in—and a pretty good restaurant to eat in, too! Get the lunch buffet for unlimited draft beer. Recommended: New York Steak hamilton.co.kr 02-6393-1227. 119-25 Itaewon-dong.
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East Vill age
Though best known for its foreign food offerings, Itaewon has some tasty Korean eateries as well. On the final Sunday of each month, order from East Village’s donation menu and all profits are donated to charity. Recommended: Hanwoo Beef Salad, Crab with Cucumber 02-790-7782. 736-9 Hannam-dong.
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Spain Club Spanish Spanish wine, Spanish music, Spanish flamenco—did we mention they call themselves “Spain Club”?
Recommended: paella, tapas spainclub.kr 02-795-1118. 736-8 Hannam-dong. 10 Magazine September 2011 | 35
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10 Magazine September 2011
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The Second Annual
During the month of September give us your 30-second to 2-minute video showing your friends and family back home what awaits them in Korea, and you could win a trip for two to Europe, along with plenty of other prizes. See details at www.10mag.com/contest Contest Schedule September 1st - 30th: Accept Entries October 2nd - 9th: Online Voting to Determine Top 10 Videos October 10th - 11th: Judges Determine Rankings October 12th: Awards Ceremony
GRAND PRIZE A Trip for Two to Europe on Lufthansa German Airlines!
its cinematic collection. Based on the Captain America comics that first appeared in the 1940s, the movie takes us back to World War II where we meet Steve Rogers (Chris Evans), a weak-of-body but strong-ofheart hero who is transformed into the ultimate American fighting machine (thanks to Stanley Tucci’s German scientist and his wonder serum). However, over in Europe the splendidly evil Johann Schmidt (Hugo Weaving) has formed Hydra, a dangerous group of evil soldiers and scientists hellby Pa u l M at t he w s bent on taking over the world. Joe Johnston takes us on a fantastic romp through war-torn Europe; it’s all-American, allaction, all the time and that’s no of Severus Snape. Rickman’s big moments bad thing. This vintage superhero flick is in this movie are sure to bring a tear to your better than this year’s Thor and will boost eye, without becoming mawkish. the faith of those eagerly awaiting next If you’ve enjoyed the other seven films, year’s Avengers. If you’re not in a patrithen Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: otic mood then stay away, but this is good Part 2 will not disappoint. It’s pleasing to clean Nazi-fighting fun that puts turgid see that in such a lengthy series, quality has blockbusters like Transformers Dark of the not been sacrificed and the filmmakers have Moon to shame. managed to stay true to the spirit of the books. Unmissable for those of us who have fallen under Harry Potter’s spell.
Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 2 Directed by David Yates The final film of this long-running franchise has been awaited by millions of fans eager to see the conclusion of J. K. Rowling’s epic tale of wizardry and wonder. David Yates wastes no time getting into the complex final chapter of Harry’s story and has created a robust rollercoaster of a film that keeps you solidly entertained throughout. Due to the size of the final book, it does mean that some corners are cut and some scenes are sacrificed to keep the film at a reasonable running time, but if you’re a Harry Potter fan then you’ll be more than satisfied with this genuinely thrilling adaptation. The film’s main three stars have grown into solid performers, with Rupert Grint standing out as one to watch in the future. But it is the supporting cast that really steals the show, and Alan Rickman deserves credit for his superb portrayal
Classics of Korean Cinema
* * *
Captain America: The First Avenger
Directed by Joe Johnston Marvel is really on a roll with its superhero action films (Last year’s sequel to Iron Man and this year’s Thor are the latest examples), and Captain America is a very welcome addition to
My Beautiful Girl Mari 마리 이야기
38 | 10 Magazine September 2011
Directed by Lee Seong-kang This 2002 animation won the Grand Prix at the 26th Annecy International Animated Film Festival and deserves an hour of your time. It’s less of a children’s cartoon and more of an adult meditation on childhood and the loves, loss and rites of passage that each of us goes through. The story takes place in a small fishing village. Nam-woo and Jun-ho are the best of friends, but each has his own issues to deal with. Nam-woo is still coping with the death of his father and his mother’s new boyfriend, whilst Jun-ho is being sent to a new school in Seoul. It is through Nam-woo’s discovery of a magic marble and the secrets of a decrepit lighthouse that the boys discover a magical world, the mysterious flying girl Mari and her giant white dog. It’s a slow, dreamlike movie that lets you drift through these boys’ experiences. It may be a little plodding for some, but it contains some wonderful ideas and imagery that will enchant if you are prepared to give it the time. My Beautiful Girl Mari shows that there is more to animation than just Disney, Pixar and Miyazaki.
NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month
Dates are subject to change. September 15th Shark Night 3D USA.
Horror/Thriller. Sara Paxton, Alyssa Diaz; dir. David R. Ellis.
France. Action/Adventure. Zoe Saldana, Callum Blue; dir. Olivier Megaton.
September 1st Elbowroom 숨 Korea.
Drama. Park Ji-won, Shin Yeonsuk; dir. Ham Kyeong-rok. September 8th SeaFood 쥴리의 육지
대모험 Korea. Animation. Dubbed by Kim Byeon-man, Lee Young-a; dir. Aun Hoe Gou.
September 8th Mr. Popper’s Pen-
guins USA. Comedy. Jim Carrey, Carla Gugino; dir. Mark Waters.
September 22nd Killer Elite USA.
Action/Thriller. Jason Statham, Robert De Niro; dir. Gary McKendry.
September 29th Johnny English
Reborn Israel/France/Japan/UK. Comedy. Rowan Atkinson, Rosamund Pike; dir. Oliver Parker.
You can’t get this info anywhere else.
September 29th Abduction USA.
Action/Drama/Mystery. Taylor Lautner, Sigourney Weaver; dir. John Singleton. TBA Champ 챔프 Korea. Drama. Cha
September 8th Marrying the Mafia 4:
Family Ordeal 가문의 영광 4: 가문의 수난 Korea. Comedy/Action. Shin Hyeon-jun, Kim Su-mi; dir. Jeong Tae-won. September 8th The Day He Arrives
북촌방향 Korea. Drama. Yoo Jun-sang, Song Sun-mi; dir. Hong Sang-soo
September 8th Final Destination 5
USA. Horror/Action. Nicholas D’Agosto; dir. Steven Quale.
Tae-hyeon, Yu O-seong; dir. Lee Hwan-gyeong. TBA Blue Salt 푸른소금 Korea.
Action/Drama. Song Kang-ho, Shin Se-gyeong; dir. Lee Hyeon-seong. TBA Dream Factory 꿈의 공장 Korea.
Documentary. Dir. Kim Seong-gyun. TBA Countdown 카운트다운 Korea.
Action/Drama. Jeong Jae-young, Jeon Do-yeon; dir. Heo Jong-ho.
by S oyeo n K im b erly Yoo n
Superstar K is Back and Bigger than Ever Superstar K, Korea’s answer to American Idol, is now in its third season with nearly two million applicants from all over the world. Way back in April 2009, when survival shows weren’t so popular in Korean culture, Superstar K Season 1 attracted major public attention and started a new trend that would transform the broadcasting industry. Although Superstar K is broadcast on cable channel Mnet (one of Korea’s top music channels), it still set a ratings record with 19.1% of viewers watching it. These were revolutionary numbers for a cable channel. Season 2 continued to find success, but other broadcasting companies began to produce similar audition programs, which gradually led to Superstar K losing its uniqueness and originality. But for its third season, Superstar K aims to set itself apart from the competition with more than 1,970,000 applicants and 500 million won in prize money for the top Superstar. Season 3 has increased the prizes and changed the rating systems—any of the three judges may provide a “super pass” to
an applicant when two other judges vote for elimination. Plus, a single applicant and a team with more than one singer are now judged equally. Previously, a team applicant could not become Superstar K because the members were eventually separated during the audition process. However, this season, all team members will be able to win Superstar K, which will open up new doors to bands and a cappella groups. Superstar K producer Kim Yong-beom stated during an interview that the only shows he is competing against are Superstar K 1 and 2, and no imitation can attract the number of applicants, media press, and public attention that Superstar K did. Superstar K Season 3 first aired on Friday, August 12th, star ting with auditions that had already taken place in different regions of Korea. Who will end up as the third Superstar K? Find out for yourself by watching each Friday at 11 pm on Mnet. 10 Magazine September 2011 | 39
September 1st Colombiana USA/
The Vines Future Primitive Sony Music A new release f rom “downunda” packing a powerful (albeit short: the CD is only 33 minutes) punch that draws its strength from the fusion of all manner of great Australian rock entities of yore. There’s the hard, fast intensity of “Gimme Love” (The Celibate Rifles would be proud); hints of the Go-Betweens and The Church (“Leave Me In The Dark”); “Cry,” sort of Brit pop-meets-the Scientists; as well as a lower-key surf-pop ode (“Candy Flippin’ Girl”) that hints at a Hoodoo Gurus/Radio Birdman jolt. While most of the tunes settle around the three minute mark and are serious R&R, the longest tune on the album, “Outro,” goes far beyond the power chord verve to offer up an incongruously spacey, psychedelic outpouring that is strangely seductive. Good to see that The Vines haven’t forsaken the glory days of the OZ-rock story; when’s the next chapter? * * *
Hugo Old Tyme Religion Nation/SONY Unli ke the st andard mainstream CD release, how t he l ist e ne r p e r-
MBLAQ Mona Lisa J.Tune Camp Following the triumph of BLAQ Style, MBLAQ successfully completed a Japanese debut and still managed to find time to squeeze in another mini-album within the span of seven months. Mona Lisa has made headlines with its concept of pop culture mash-up. With group members dressed up as icons such as Boy George, James Dean, and Zorro, the album promised to be more eclectic than the average pop album. Lead single “Mona Lisa,” a Spanish-tinged dance number about an elusive woman, stays true to MBLAQ’s strength in over-the-top passion and enthusiasm. Tracks like “I Don’t Know” and “You Knew” also recall classic hooks and hip hop influence, but lead the album out of whatever concept was supposed to tie it together. The slower numbers resemble b-sides or leftovers from BLAQ Style, a disappointing end to what could have by A n n a Or z el been an interesting mesh of history and musical influence. ceives this album will depend a lot on their age. For older listeners weaned on the analog sounds that mixed genres quite seamlessly into tasty musical concoctions which retained all manner of sonic f lavor, Old Tyme Religion should prove quite satisfying; those who are products of the digital age might find it less so. Hugo is a half-British, half-Thai singer/musician who first garnered a smidgeon of acclaim re-working Beyonce tunes, but has come much further these days.
by J o h n M e n s i n g
Try to Remember Ref lections on the decade since the World Trade Center was destroyed are aptly framed by John W. Dower’s Cultures of War: Pearl Harbor, Hiroshima, 9-11, Iraq (2010, W30,550, 596 pages). Dower documents the profusion of comparisons initially made between Pearl Harbor and 9-11; in both instances, the US administrations followed similar patterns, ignoring intelligence reports suggesting the possibility of such attacks. Comparing Japan’s decision to go to war with the US, and the US’s decision to go to war with Iraq, Dower again finds fruitful parallels between Imperial Japan’s War Ministry and the Pentagon. Two other books worthy of note on the subject are The Assassins’ Gate: America in Iraq by George Packer (2005, 467 pages) and Fiasco by Thomas E. Ricks (2006, 482 pages). These detail the operational failures of the Bush administration, and augment Dower’s claim that an ostensibly demo40 | 10 Magazine September 2011
This album throws together a musical mash predicated upon styles such as bluesy retrorock à la Doyle Bramhall channeling Buffalo Springfield (the title track), jangly swamp guitar-meets-bluegrass interspersions in a C.C. Adcock mold (“99 Problems”), and a splash of English alt-folk rock (“Rock & Roll Delight”). Many other styles (see how many you can find) are also discernible as they swirl in aural profusion, making this CD by M i chael B erry well worth a listen.
cratic but de facto imperial presidency (the Bush administration) acted with as little airing of conscientious opinions as Hirohito’s cabinet in Japan. One is left contemplating whether the administration was guilty of unconscious ineptitude or conscious malice. These books record the sad fact that the tragedy of 9-11 was followed by further tragedies in Iraq and Afghanistan. With the weather getting cooler and the rain no longer an excuse to stay indoors, 10 would also like to make note of Karl Randall’s Modern and Traditional Korean Games & Sports (2011, W9,000, 144 pages).
A permanent resident expat here, Karl is an archery and fencing enthusiast who brings more pedantry t h a n ve r ve t o t h e page as he catalogs Korean play. This is an especially helpful approach for expats: even though no one ever genuinely crosses the cultural divide that separates “us” from “them,” becoming accomplished at a sport or engaging in board games with your adopted country’s people allows for more progress than most other forms of cultural exchange. Here you will find the details you need to know if you’re ever going to pick one of these activities up. Join us the first Sunday every month for a lively discussion of these and other titles. Details about the 10 Magazine Book Club can be found on Facebook.
by Sta ff o r d L u m s d e n
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Korean Mobile Market Gets Closer to 4G The latest controversy in the Korean mobile phone market was whether KT would be allowed to shut off its 2G service once and for all. 800,000 KT users were to have their services terminated in July, but the Korean Communications Commission (KCC) offered a stay of execution on the old mobile phone service. The main impetus behind shutting down 2G is KT’s impending launch (apparently slated for November this year) of its so-called 4G or Long Term Evolution (LTE) service. This will see increased bandwidth across the network, bringing mobile internet download speeds to more than triple WiBro’s current 20 Mb/s (20 megabytes per second) to nearly 75Mb/s with LTE. SK Telecom has not yet decided to pull the plug on its approximately 800,000 2G subscribers, and third place LG Telecom doesn’t really have any 2G customers given its network runs on EVDO Rev-A, a 3G-like service. Indeed, LG Telecom is getting serious about 4G as well. LG has apparently started upgrading mobile base stations in Seoul, while handset vendors are starting to roll out 4G-capable handsets. The upgrade will cost LG W1.7 trillion over the next 18 months. The first 4G-capable handset to arrive in Korea is the HTC EVO 4G. However, the term 4G in itself is a bit of a misnomer. Terms such as 2G, 3G, and 4G come from the International Telecommunication Union (ITU), an agency existing under the United Nations that sets requirements for each generation of wireless technology. It requires that 4G technology provides a download speed of 1 Gb/s for stationary use and 100 Mb/s while moving. Neither LTE nor WiBro satisfies this requirement. LTE offers 75 Mb/s download speed when used while moving, while WiBro can handle 40 Mb/s. Hence, they are sometimes called 3.9G, though the telecommunication industry generally refers to both of them as 4G. This confusion doesn’t arise from Korean marketing hubbub, but rather manufacturers and carriers conflating concepts to sell handsets. This is why the IPhone 4 is still 3G. Even so, WiBro and LTE are expected to bring huge changes to the “smart life.” As they offer download speeds three to five times faster than current 3G services, it would take only 1 minute and 25 seconds to download an 800 MB movie with LTE services. The speedy download rate means more services will be available with smartphones. For example, users will be able to access high definition video while moving in a car or play games that aren’t available on smartphones now due to their huge data requirements.
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10 Magazine September 2011 | 41
by J o e m c p he r s o n
Spanish Food That’s Worth the Trip Though it’s one stop south of the Seoul city limits, this Spanish joint gives ample reasons to make the culinary pilgrimage.
’m going to make a humble prediction. Spanish food is about to become the next foreign food trend in Korea. There’s no scientific basis for this. It’s just a hunch. But usually when I see an ethnic restaurant outside of ethnic-restaurant-friendly zones, it’s a sign that a trend is growing. Seoul has had several Spanish restaurants for the past few years, mostly near Itaewon and Garosu-gil. So it was a surprise to find El Olivo, a fairly large new Spanish restaurant, located near Seonbawi Station. I’m sure you’ve never even heard of Seonbawi Station. That’s because there is nothing there. It’s outside Seoul Racecourse Park and near Seoul Grand Park. There are a few restaurants that cater to the weekend crowds in this rural strip of land. It’s not the first place I’d think of to open a Spanish joint, and I’ll admit I was suspicious about its authenticity. Surprisingly, it has become a popular lunch spot with its affordable tapas lunch menu. It’s not totally authentic. The rice is Korean short-grain, and there is the prerequisite dish of pickles. Yet that’s about it. The flavors burst with the brightness of the Iberian Peninsula. Fruity olive oil with blaring red tomatoes and fresh herbs. 42 | 10 Magazine September 2011
The tapas are playfully modern interpretations and are artfully plated. As mentioned, the tapas lunch menu is a safe bet if you don’t know what to order. The paella and fideo (kind of the pasta version of paella) are chock-full of seafood and flavor. I highly recommend the octopus and potatoes with smoked paprika. Someone in your party must order the crème brûlée, which was as heavenly to taste as it was to ogle. This is where I talk about service, and this is also where I say that El Olivo makes its mark. We were made to feel welcome, and service was attentive but not intrusive. English was spoken, and we had great descriptions and recommendations from our server. The exterior and interior are made to resemble a Spanish villa, and with a nice view of the countryside, the illusion is almost complete. El Olivo is worth the journey, which is really just a short subway ride away. It’s a romantic escape from the hectic Seoul grind, and you deserve to treat yourself. This is one of those restaurants that has gotten it right, and I hope to see it stay in business for a long time. 10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.
Crème brûlée Fideo
English/Spanish menu Smoking not allowed Lots of vegetable options Not easily accessible Reservations accepted Great Spanish food and great service It’s in the middle of nowhere. W12,000 to W55,000 02-502-1156 elolivo.co.kr 363-25 Gwacheon-dong, Gwacheonsi, Gyeonggi Province. Seonbawi Station (line 4). Come out exit 3 and follow the signs up the road. 11:30 am – 10:00 pm (closed 3:30 pm - 5:30 pm)
Lunch Box of the Rising Sun About three blocks from Hongdae’s playground stands the woodframed Kokoro, an Osaka-inspired Japanese Bento restaurant. Inside stands a line of counter seats facing the open kitchen as well as a few wooden tables matching the rest of the décor, making your meal welcoming and warm. The menu itself boasts variety from pork to roasted duck to a sushi platter all served in the iconic bento box. Surrounding your meat choice are a vinegared rice ball, a small kimbab roll, pickled ginger, seaweed, fried mashed potatoes, egg, radish, and oden. If you’re jiving for quick, delicious, healthy Japanese, but not of the Izakaya ilk, Kokoro is a delicious option. 361-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu. 02-338-3822 Wor ds and shot by Jo sh H amlet
Skewers and Sake When you’ve got a craving that only meat on a stick can abate, a trip to Koharu Tavern in Apgujeong is well worth your time. The six skewer platter will satisfy your pork, beef and chicken desires and is served with more atmosphere than a traditional street-meat vendor can supply (watch out for the bacon-wrapped baby tomatoes though—they’re hot when they first come out.) Also of note on the menu is the Japanese seafood noodle soup. Wash it all down with a bottle of sake as you and your friends enjoy one of Apgujeong’s nicest taverns. 657-13 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. koharu.co.kr 02-545-5792 Wor ds and shot by C urt i s F i le
Hanmiri Korean cuisine fit for a king Gujeolpan
Dogs of Hunger There’s a place in Haebangchon that makes me envious of anyone who lives there. It actually has breakfast, a real breakfast, that starts at real breakfast hours, like 7:30 am. The Hungry Dog is a real greasy spoon for those of us who greatly adore greasy spoons. The service is a tad on the rough side, but that’s its charm. Their menu consists of English and American breakfasts, a great list of classic sandwiches, sliders, a variety of hot dogs, soup that has been simmered for eight hours and a Tuesday night steak special. They also may be the only place in Seoul where you can get an authentic Chicago-style red hot, which is a thing of beauty. Noksapyeong Station (line 6), exit 2. Stay on the left for around 500 meters, it’s on the right. 070-7635-7516 Wor ds and shot by Joe Mc Phers on
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How Namsan Can Get You in Shape
Design & Fashion Ongoing Free Market and Hope Market Weekend afternoons, stop by the playground at Hongdae for some fashionable finds. The Free Market, held on Saturday, focuses on fashion accessories, while the Hope Market on Sundays offers more in the way of arts and crafts. Located close to Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2) and Sangsu Stn. (line 6). 1 - 6 pm. cafe.daum.net/artmarket, cafe.daum. net/hopemarket 1330
August 31st - September 2nd Preview in Seoul Organized by the Korea Federation of Textile Industries (KOFOTI), this expo focuses on highly functional, eco-friendly textiles. COEX Hall B near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). 9:30 am - 6 pm. Free. en.previewinseoul.com 02-528-4016 September 3rd Mio’s Trunk Show 2011 Children’s clothing brand Mio is having its fall 2011 trunk show at Hallasan Hall, Seoul Club. 11 am - 6 pm. mioseoul.com 010-9923-8557 (Myoung Choi)
Art W o r d s by Jac o b L e o n a r d, s h o t by Sy lv i a K i m
Tame the slopes of Namsan with the Quickie, the Newbie, and the Freak.
hough Itaewon, the melting pot of Seoul, is best known for its expat bars and cheap eats Tuesdays, it still has a few tricks up its sleeve. Just north of Itaewon is one of the best places in Seoul to exercise: Namsan (남산). It has heaps of trails for running, piles of steps for climbing, and loads of exercise stations for smashing out various repetitions. To make your exercise experience more entertaining, combine, scale, and make changes to form the best loop for you and your desired outcome. But before you take to Namsan to work out or just work off the previous night’s mistakes, pick your poison from three workouts: the Quickie, the Newbie, and the Freak. The best place for the Quickie is the section of Namsan Park located across from the front gate of the Hyatt. The Quickie is a run-movement exercise circuit that has participants complete “as many loops as possible” (AMLAP) in the time you have to do something fun. Say you’ve got 30 minutes to exercise and you want to do chest, triceps, and a bit of cardio. Start your run at the beginning of the 2km loop that begins at the bridge near the front gate of the Hyatt. As you run around the outer loop, you’ll see benches in pairs about every 100 meters. Complete as many loops as possible while stopping at every other bench for 10, 20, or 30 bench push-ups. The benches that you don’t do push-ups on, do triceps dips. Alternate the movements and the number of reps to scale for the intensity level you’re aiming for. The Quickie can be altered to meet the needs of any muscle group or workout regimen. If you are new to working out and don’t want 44 | 10 Magazine September 2011
to smash the AMLAP/Quickie style, try the Newbie, a lap-regulated workout set. This means that participants will do a set amount of loops and reps in the best time possible. The goal is two loops around the Namsan Park section that runs between the National Theater and Dongguk University along with 50 push-ups, 20 pull-ups, 50 sit-ups, and 50 air squats. The order doesn’t matter: finish the run and then smash out the reps or do the reps before you run. The idea is to complete it all in the best time possible. This means that the next time you go out to knock off a few kilos, you’ve got a time to beat. The final freestyle workout is a combination of the first two. Called the Freak, it’s the perfect test for those who think they are fit or who wish to see where they stand in the world of being in shape. Set a distance or time for your run—for example, 30 minutes of cardio. Now divide that into 6 sets of 5-minute runs. These runs will be more intense because you going to separate each run with 20 push-ups, 20 air squats, 20 situps, and 20 renegade rows. After completing the run and one set of the exercise repetitions, write down or document your time and rest for 90 seconds. Then do the loop again but this time beat the previous time. It’s a chance for you to get instant improvement on your output effort. Go hard or don’t go. And remember to run like a big dog is chasing you. Now that you’ve got an idea of the healthier side of “the won,” the only thing you need to do is hit the hills. 10 Tip
Not ready to go it alone? Join this month’s cover model Cody Hunter and the crowd of workout warriors for steps and reps every Saturday morning with the Studio X Fitness Outdoor Boot Camp (02-794-3330).
Ongoing Chinese Food, Clothing and Shelter Exhibition Exhibiting handicrafts from the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It was during these periods that craftsmanship flourished the most in China. Hwajeong Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon & holidays. W4,000. hjmuseum.or.kr 02-2075-0114 Traditional Crafts Connecting Past and Future You can take a look at Korea’s traditional crafts while also learning how they were made. Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation near Seolleung Stn. (line 2, ex.8). 9 am - 6 pm. Closed Sun. chf.or.kr 02-3011-2176 Through August 30th Anthony Browne Retrospective Illustrations by Anthony Browne, British children’s book author. Art Museum at Sejong Center. 11 am - 7:30 pm. W9,000 - W11,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-3143-4360 Through August 31st Visual Art Creative Festival Part of the Dream Garden Festival, appreciate sculptures made of various materials as you walk around the Dream Forest. Dream Forest Art Center near Miasamgeori Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5401 Wish and Belief Exhibition These wooden statues represent the various gods once prayed to in ancient China. Mokin Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.6). 10 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. W3,000 - W5,000. mokinmuseum.com 02-722-5066 Through September 2nd Overture 2: Photography Hosted by PKM Gallery, this exhibition will feature various types of photographic works that resemble painted works. Most of the pieces in this exhibition are done by new artists, so go ahead and check out fresh creativity. PKM Gallery in Jongno. Mon - Fri 10:30 am - 6 pm. pkmgallery.com 02-734-9467 Study Exhibition In this exhibition, ten artists reveal their agony about the whole purpose of art. Savina Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 10 am - 6:30 pm. W2,000 - W3,000. savinamuseum.com 02-736-4410
SEOUL CALENDAR Through September 3rd A Scene of Trace These photos by Jeon Ri-hye explore memories and our perception of place. Gallery On near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 10:30 am - 7 pm. galleryon.co.kr 02-733-8295 Through September 4th The Earth The Earth exhibition is composed of four works: Stage, Light, Life, and Dream. Seongbuk Museum of Art near Hanseong Univ. Stn. (line 4, ex. 6). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W1,000 - W2,000. sma.gongdan.go.kr 02-6925-5011 Taomina Exhibition: Tactophilia International artist group Taomina displays three-dimensional artistic objects. Gallery Golmok in Itaewon. firstname.lastname@example.org
Through September 6th Outside View: A Picture Book Without Pictures We see the outside as a flat image which can change depending on our state of mind. 10 artists present works inspired by the Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale “A Picture Book Without Pictures.” Kimi Art in Pyeongchang-dong. F1 10:30 am - 7 pm, F2 10:30 am - 11 pm. kimiart.net 02-394-8611 Through September 7th Hwang Eun-Jeong Exhibition These animated works by Hwang Eun-jeong are based on her imagination and childhood memories. ArtSide Seoul near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Sun. artside.org 02-725-1020 Through September 8th Joyce in Art This exhibition includes some of the works shown at the Bloomsday 100th Anniversary Exhibition held in Dublin. Seoul National University Art Museum. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W2,000 - W3,000. snumoa.org 02-880-9504 Through September 11th Ethnic Earthenware from the Asian Heart Explore what it means to be Asian through these earthen sculptures. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Thu & Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed & Sat 9 am – 9 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9553 Evanescing, In-Evanescing At the Gallery Hyundai, you can check out the latest works by Lee Jin-ju. See her thoughtful take on the inside of destroyed works of art. Gallery Hyundai, a 15-minute walk from Anguk Station (line 3, ex. 1). Tue - Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. galleryhyundai.com 02-2287-3516 Through September 13th Color in Space and Time Master of optical art Cruz Diez offers you a chance to experience the amazing world of colors. Sangsang Toktok Art Museum & Dream Gallery in the Dream Seoul Forest. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000 - W8,000. dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5401 Through September 18th Cartoon Characters Meet Art Contemporary artists portray characters that appear in popular animations. In addition, there will be an opportunity to
Rhetoric of the Images 38 art pieces from 14 Korean contemporary artists will be shown at the Seoul Museum of Art near City Hall Stn. (line 1 & 2, ex. 1, 11 & 12). Mon - Fri 10 am - 8 pm, Sat - Sun 10 am - 7 pm. Free. seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-2124-8938 Through September 25th The American Art: Masterpieces of Everyday Life Plunge into the worlds of neo-dada, pop art, conceptual art, hyperrealism, and postmodernism seen through the eyes of Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Man Ray, and 44 other famous artists. It’s New York’s Whitney Museum’s first exhibition in Asia. National Art Museum, Deoksugung. Tue - Thu 9 am - 6 pm, Fri - Sun 9 am - 8:30 pm. Closed Mon. W12,000. americanart.kr 02-2188-6000
What I Know: Hangul Installation Exhibit Gang Ik-jung, one of the most well-known Korean installation artists, decorated his work with colorful hangul (한글, Korean writing) which communicates the wisdom he has gained through his life. Sejong Story Exhibit Hall at Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Tue - Sun 10:30 am - 10:30 pm. Closed Mon. Free. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1153
talk with the artists. Seoul Museum of Art. 10 am - 8 pm. Free. seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-598-6247
The Art of Disney’s Classic Fairy Tales This exhibit features over 600 original artworks that express Walt Disney’s unique imagination and humanism. Hangaram Design Museum at the Seoul Arts Center in Seocho. Weekdays 11 am - 8 pm, Sat & Sun 10 am - 8 pm. Closed August 29th. W10,000 - W14,000. dctexhibition.com 02-795-2011 Musée d’Orsay: Dream and Reality Featuring pieces from the collection of the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, including works by Van Gogh, Monet, and Gauguin. Hangaram Art Museum at Seoul Arts Center. 11 am - 8 pm. Closed August 29th. W5,000 - W12,000. orsay2011.co.kr 02-325-1077 My Motherland Work by prominent modernist artist Ju Myeong-deok. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667 Through September 30th Yonhap Int’l Press Photo Awards In this competition organized by Yonhap News (Korea’s wire service), staff and freelance photojournalists submitted their best shots. Photos are divided into three themes: Common Prosperity of Humanity, Enhancement of International Peace, and Environmental Protection. Old Seoul Station Museum. 11 am – 8 pm. Free. Closed Monday. yippa.net 02-481-4650 Through October 2nd Another Summer: Perspectives of Birth and Extinction Summers come one after the other. This exhibition encourages you to think about such life cycles. Six artists will take you on a journey through the perspectives of birth and extinction. Sungkok Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 7). 10 am - 6 pm. W3,000. sungkokmuseum.com 02-737-7650 Through October 3rd 2002 World Cup Special Exhibition If you’re a big Korean soccer fan, the 2002 World Cup is the event that you cannot forget. The Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Exhibition Hall presents the greatest memories of the tournament through photos and memorabilia. Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Exhibition Hall. seouldesign.or.kr 02-2266-7077 Through October 16th “Inbetween” Exhibit Displaying works by Japanese artist Takashi Kuribayashi. Beyond Museum in Cheongdam-dong. 10 am - 8 pm. W6,000 - W10,000. beyondmuseum.com 02-577-6688
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edi t or’ s p icks
September 3rd - 7th Classical Music Photo Exhibition: Sound Light This exhibit presents marvelous photos of Korean composers and classical musicians. Free. Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 September 7th - 20th Paper at the Edge of Art No paint and canvas allowed here! Art works that are made using a variety of other materials will be on display at Jay Gallery in Insadong. 6 pm. art.forum.asia@gmail. com 02-2666-4870
September 12th - 21st Asia Int’l Art Exhibition Fascinating artwork from various countries throughout Asia will be introduced in this exhibit. Hangaram Art Museum at Seoul Art Center. 11 am - 8 pm. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300.
Rhizome Forest by Kwon Yeo Hyeon, 227X181cm, oil on canvas, 2011
What’s On in Art As summer sews itself into an autumn sweater, some of the season’s best art shows will close. July and August saw two traveling exhibits from renowned international galleries, New York’s Whitney Museum and Paris’ Musée d’Orsay. The National Museum of Contemporary Art’s Deoksu Palace gallery (moca.go.kr) hosted the Whitney’s collection of major American works by art stars like Roy Lichtenstein and Andy Warhol. This month is the last chance to view the show, which closes September 25th. The Hangaram Art Museum at the Seoul Arts Center (sac. or.kr) was filled all summer with important French works on loan from the Musee d’Orsay. The final viewing of those works, including Van Gogh’s Starry Night Over the Rhone, is on the same day, September 25. To see local work, head to the Seoul Museum of Art (seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr), where 14 prominent Korean artists are showcased in Rhetoric of the Images. The show’s standout piece is a 16-canvas work by Cho Duck Hyun, mounted on a wheeled metal frame. Like much of Cho’s work, this piece delves into history and memories, and how we construct the two. The pencil drawing is a portrait of a Korean family feasting on the nostalgia of memories lost in a black and white history: half-Hanbok grandmother, half Buddy Holly glasses and 1950s skinny tie. Also noteworthy is the small collection of oil paintings by Kwon Yea Hyun. Kwon merges pop culture characters from Thomas the Tank Engine to the Transformers into natural settings like rain forests. Kwon’s compositions give the effect of a cut collage dripping with thick slabs and splatters of oil paint. Rhetoric of the Images closes on September 18th. Last month, the Laughing Tree Gallery in Haebanchon reopened closer to Noksapyeong Station as the Laughing Tree Lab (laughingtreelab.com), a think tank of an event space set up for art exhibits, performance pieces, live music, and rehearsals. This month, Laughing Tree Lab will show a set of “antiportraits” by Chilean artist Raul Pizarrog that he claims reveal the real human self. Catch the show at the opening party on September 17th. Wor ds by Russ M art i n 46 | 10 Magazine September 2011
September 22nd - 26th KIAF (Korean International Art Fair) Looking for a nice canvas for your new apartment? Check out more than 5,000 pieces from 1,500 artists, including sculptures, photos, media arts and more. COEX near Samsung Station (line 2). 11 am - 8 pm. W15,000. kiaf.org 02-766-3702
Theater & Dance Ongoing Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the setting for this exhibition of awesome dance routines and soaring aerial moves. Nonverbal performance. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Wed - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. sjbboys. com 02-323-5233 Bibap Bibap is a non-verbal performance depicting one of Korea’s representative dishes, bibimbap. It was favorably received at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in 2010. Cecil Theater near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 3) & Gwangwhamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 6). Closed Mon. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. ceciltheater.com 02-766-0815 Drawing Show: Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Nonverbal performance. Myungbo Art Hall near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 7, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848 Drum Cat This prize-winning, all-female percussion ensemble works rock, jazz, techno, and Latin rhythms into their complex and powerful non-verbal performance. Myungbo Art Hall - Haram Hall (Jung-gu). Tues - Sat 4 & 8 pm. Sun & holidays 4 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drumcat.co.kr 02-586-8489 Fanta-stick This slapstick nonverbal show mixed with Korean traditional music offers you lots of laughs. Nonverbal performance. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Daily at 8 pm. 80 min. W40,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-6401-5959 Figaro, the Barber of Seville: Opera/ Musical Presented by OTM (Originale Teatro Melodramma), this open-run production of Rossini’s famous opera buffa takes the bold step of featuring theatre actors and actresses in operatic
roles. OTM Cheongdam Art Hall. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. 100 min. W20,000 - W50,000. otm.or.kr 070-8157-8064 Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Nonverbal performance. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995 Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. You can also sample Korean royal cuisine before the show. Nonverbal performance. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 – 8 pm, 8:50 – 9:50 pm. Sun 8 pm - 9 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,000. Performance is W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr Reserve at 02-2266-9101 Legend of Flower II This romantic tale of two lovers is back and better than ever with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Nonverbal performance. Walkerhill Theater at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon – Sat 4:50 & 7:30 pm. 75 min. W60,000 and up. legendofflower. com 02-455-5000 The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This nonverbal b-boy musical won the top prize in an international competition. Daehan Saengmyeong 63 Art Hall. 8 pm. Closed Mon & 2nd & 16th. 70 min. W30,000. 63.co.kr 1661-1063 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. Nonverbal performance. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2). 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. 80 min. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.mct.or.kr 02-751-1500 Music Theater Company “Gong” Experience the emotions of the Joseon dynasty through this modern take on gugak (traditional Korean music) and dance. Seong Kyun Small Theater near Hyewha Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). Every Wednesday at 8 pm. 60 min. W20,000. cafe.daum.net/danceparamita 1544-1555
Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Three Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs and percussion of all kinds. Nonverbal performance. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays 7:30 pm. Weekends and holidays at 4 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 - W50,000. ghmarthall.co.kr 02-722-3416 Samcheonggak Morning Performance Start the day by sipping a cup of seasonal tea and listening to the sound of Korean
13th Seoul Drum Festival
edi t or’ s p icks
September 3rd - 24th
The Seoul Drum Festival is finally out of the woods. After several years deep inside the Seoul Forest, the yearly percussion event has moved downtown to Seoul Plaza. This year, the festival’s program features professional and amateur percussionists from countries as far afield as Australia, Mexico, and Brazil, along with homegrown acts like Nanta and Drum Cat. Some preliminary events will take place early in the month including a fringe dream concert at Seoul Outdoor Stage from 9/3 to 9/4 and performances from 9/14 to 9/21 at the Sejong Center’s M Theatre. But for the main events, head to the main stage at Seoul Plaza near City Hall Station (lines 1 & 2) from 9/23 to 9/24. seouldrum.go.kr 02-757-2121 traditional musical instruments. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-gu. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) at 9:10 am. Every final Saturday. 10 am - 11 am. 60 min. W20,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700 Seoul Nori Madang: Traditional Performance Korean dancers and singers present you with all the vivid colors and exotic sounds of a traditional performance. Sokchon Lake Park near Jamsil Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). Sun 3 pm. Free. culture.songpa.go.kr 02-414-1985 Through September 9th College Opera Festival With students from Chugye, Gyeonghee, and Danguk university students. Opera Theater in Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Through September 10th Pimatgol Sonata: The Musical Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Tues - Thurs 8 pm, Fri 4 & 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 4 pm. W20,000 - W50,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-3991-700 Woyzeck: The Play The story of a human who is demeaned and neglected by everyone he had ever trusted. English subtitles available. Daehangno Arts Center near Hyewha Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Closed Mon. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. 100 min. W20,000 W50,000. ntck.or.kr 02-3279-2233
Through October 1st Dream Garden Festival Every Saturday night at 7, enjoy high quality performances at the outdoor stage of Dream Forest. This month, enjoy performers by Drum Cat, Moo Moo, and Toxic. dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5401 Through October 16th New Space, Search for the New Stage Follow changes in set design and stage production at the National Theatre from the 1950s to the present. The Performing Arts Museum of Korea. Tue - Sat 10 am - 7:30 pm. Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. museum.ntok.go.kr 02-2280-5802 Through October 30th All That Jazz, Love in New York: The Musical SH Art Hall at Daehakro. In Korean. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W45,000 - W55,000. sharthall.com 02-3141-3025 August 31st - October 30th The World Festival of National Theaters Some of Korea’s finest theatre troupes, as well as acclaimed troupes from Indonesia, China, Czech Republic, Bulgaria, France, and Belgium. There will even be a Shakespeare Festival from 9/16 to 9/17 with some of the Bard’s plays performed by Korean troupes in the original English. Held at the National Theater of Korea. ntok.go.kr 02-2280-4114. September 1st - 18th Sangju Noodle: The Play This play
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10 Magazine September 2011 | 47
SEOUL CALENDAR performed by Troupe Dong depicts the agonies and aggravations of a typical family. In Korean. W20,000. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm, dark Mon. No performance 9/11 - 9/12. ntck.or.kr 02-3279-2233 September 15th - 16th Samiingok: The Dance Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. W20,000 - W50,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1111
September 28th - October 31st SPAF Seoul Performing Arts Festival One of the leading performing arts festivals in the country. Performances held at Arko Arts Theater, Daehangno Arts Center, and Mary Hall at Sogang University. Visit the website for the detailed schedule. W10,000 - W40,000. spaf.or.kr/2011english 02-3668-0101 September 29th - October 16th The 14th Seoul International Dance Festival Seoul Arts Center, Hoam Art Hall, Mary Hall at Sogang Univ., and other locations. Type in SIDance in ticket.interpark.com for details (website in Korean). W20,000 - W40,000. sidance.org 02-3216-1185 September 30th - October 1st Akram Khan Company: Vertical Road Bangladeshi-British dancer Akram Khan has an extensive background in classical Indian kathak and contemporary dance forms. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm. W30,000 - W70,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114
Concerts Ongoing 1,000 Won Happiness Enjoy quality concerts for the price of W1,000. Sign up between the 5th and 7th of each month to win a seat. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). sejongpac.or.kr/happy1000 1544-1887 Saturday Chamber Music Enjoy your Saturday afternoon sipping a cup of coffee as you listen to great classical pieces played by the chamber orchestra at KT Chamber Hall in Mokdong. This event occurs every other Saturday. This month: 9/3 & 9/17. 4 pm. W10,000. ktchamberhall.com 02-1577-4579 Smells Like Teen Spirit Once every two weeks, new band Yangwhajin will rock you at Rolling Hall near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1) or Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, ex 6). 8 pm. 9/14, 9/28. W25,000. cafe.daum.net/ROLLING 02-326-1505
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48 | 10 Magazine September 2011
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Through September 18th Choi Hyun Woo Magic Concert The theme of magician Choi Hyun Woo’s latest show is Sherlock Holmes. Can you figure out the mystery? Yongsan Art Center near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 3). Tue - Fri 8 pm. Sat 3 & 6 pm. Sun 2 & 5 pm. 120 min. W33,000 – W66,000. wsmi.co.kr 02-1566-5490 September 4th Evergreen Symphony Orchestra Appreciate a variety of the world’s folk music at this concert, including the American song “Dreaming of Home and Mother,” Korean “Arirang,” and more. Seoul Arts Center concert hall. 8 pm. W15,000 - W50,000. sac.or.kr 02-737-0708 Seo Hyeon Piano Recital Beethoven’s Piano Sonata No. 21 in C major Waldstein, Brahms’s Klavierstucke Op. 118, and Ravel’s Miroirs. Seoul Arts Center. 2:30 pm. W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-515-5123 Wool Trombone Ensemble Concert Rossini’s William Tell Overture and more.
Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 sac.or.kr 02-3487-0678 September 5th Song Jeong-min Clarinet Recital Performing Charles Boshsa’s Grand Sonate Op.52 for Clarinet and Piano, Takashi Yoshimatsu’s Four Pieces in Bird Shape for Clarinet and Piano, and other pieces. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-585-2934 September 6th Prime Philharmonic Orchestra This concert commemorates Pyeongchang being chosen to hold the 2018 Winter Olympics. This is the 71st performance of the Philharmonic Orchestra. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. sac.or.kr 031-392-6422 September 7th 21st Century Music Festival (Portrait of Erik Satie) Various pieces by impressionistic pianist Erik Satie. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-501-8477 September 8th The Great 3B Series: Brahms 2011 Conducted by Jeong Chi-yong, the Bucheon Philharmonic Orchestra will be performing pieces by Brahms. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W20,000 - W40,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Linkin Park in Concert California rock band Linkin Park has been topping the charts since their breakthrough 2000 album Hybrid Theory. Olympic Park Gymnastics Gymnasium. 8 pm. W99,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark. com 1544-1555 Shin Mi-jeong and Oh Hye-jeon Piano Duo Recital Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-586-0945 September 9th Seven Musicians You’re invited to a performance by Korea’s best soloists of pieces including Schubert’s Piano Trio No. 1 in B Flat Minor and Brahms’s Piano Quartet No. 3 in C Minor. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W11,000 - W44,000. sac.or.kr 02-547-5694 Hong In-Gyeong Piano Recital Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 September 10th Gold Panda on Tour UK musician Derwin Panda draws upon house, rave, dubstep, and hip-hop for his scintillating electronic work. Rolling Hall in Seoul. 11 pm. W15,000 in advance, W20,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com Ji-yeon Lee Flute Recital Seoul Arts Center. 2:30 pm. W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-2235-8955 Sang-Hui Lee Violin Recital: Russian Nights, White Nights Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-2235-8955 Seoul Pops, Sky Wind Concert: “Embroider the Autumn Night” W30,000 - W120,000. Seoul Arts Center. sac.or.kr 02-593-8760 September 12th Seoul Gugak Festival Gugak refers to the kind of traditional Korean music that King Sejong might have listened to, but this festival throws in pansori, fusion, and even b-boy dance. Also check out Yutnori, Jegichagi, and many other Korean traditional games. Seoul Plaza. seoulgugakfestival.org 02-2171-2573 September 14th Isang Yun International Composition Prize Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. sac.or.kr 02-723-0364
l i ve m u sic
What do you do get when you take an average Korean rock band and strip it down to two Korean dudes with long hair, acoustic guitar and drums? The answer is WagWak. Kim Daehyun and Cho Sangyoung of Korean band WagWak crackle with electric energy on stage. Daehyun is on lead vocals and guitar while Sangyoung plays the drums, ukulele, xylophone, melodica, and contributes to vocals. Recently, the duo has been gaining popularity, earning them a mention in the New York Times’ T Magazine blog last month. With comparisons to Bright Eyes and nods from other famed bands like Liars, WagWak has a unique rocking folk and lo-fi sound that has brought them a loyal following of both Koreans and foreigners. They sing all their songs in English, differentiating them from other Korean bands. Also, pairing up with local organizers SuperColorSuper, they have had the opportunity to do some collaborative shows like Round Robin and Super Sketch. WagWak knows how to have a fun and playful spirit on stage without compromising their stellar sound: they have been known to dress up as dinosaurs on stage. WagWak are not amateurs to the music scene: they have had international exposure in places such as Glasgow, Scotland. Kim has even had the opportunity to play a solo set at the Pop Montreal Festival in 2009 with Fever Ray, Yo La Tengo, and other bands on the bill. 2011 has already been a huge year for Kim and Cho. They released a single in May and are currently plugging away in the studio on an album and hoping to lock down some shows in Japan. For the latest on the band and to find out about upcoming shows, visit their website. Image from facebook.com/wagwak myspace.com/wagwak myspace.com/wagwak Wor ds by A lyssa Perry and shot by C ourt n ey C heatham
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www.ontheborder.co.kr blog.naver.com/4ontheborder 10 Magazine September 2011 | 49
It Takes Two to Rock WagWak
Fresh! New Taste!
SEOUL CALENDAR September 15th Yeol Eum Son and Nobuyuki Tsujii The concert starts out slow with solo piano performances and then will crescendo with pieces for two pianos. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm, W12,000 W30,000. sac.or.kr 02-724-6319 September 16th Korean Symphony Orchestra Under conductor Choe Hui-Jun, the Korean Symphony Orchestra will perform Glinka’s Overture to Ruslan and Lyudmila in D Major, Shostakovich’s Cello Concerto No.1 in E Flat Major Op.107 and Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No.4 in F minor Op.36. Seoul Arts Center concert hall. 8 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. sac.or.kr 02-523-6258
Perfume Genius on Tour Seattle-based indie songwriter Mike Hadreas lets the piano carry his haunting, heartbreaking songs. Platoon Kunsthalle in Apgujeong. W25,000 in advance, W30,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com September 17th SAC Saturday Concert Featuring Haydn’s Trumpet Concerto in E Flat Major and 101st Symphony. Seoul Arts Center concert hall. 11 am. W15,000 - W20,000 sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Yuhki Kuramoto “Autumn Story” Concert Listen to music composed and selected by New Age master songwriter Yuhki Kuramoto. Seoul Arts Center concert hall. 8 pm. W10,000 - W30,000. sac.or.kr 02-741-1763 September 20th Mika: Culture Project 3 British singer-songwriter Mika will be performing at Olympic Park. 8 pm. W99,000 W132,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 September 21st European Jazz Trio Dutch jazz pianist Marc van Roon, bass player Frans van der Hoevenm, and drummer Roy Dackus compose this trio that combines elements of jazz, classical, and pop. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 8 pm. W22,000 - W88,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114 September 22nd Eric Benet This American R&B singer is best known for his 1999 single “Spend My Life with You,” which was nominated for a Grammy. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 8 pm. W99,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-457-5114 September 24th - 25th Lets Rock Festival Ready to check out the best of Korean rock? The line-up at this new festival includes YB, No Brain, Buhwal, Dear Cloud, Guckkasten and more. Held at Nanji Han River Park. 1 day: W40,000, 2 days: W60,000. Website in Korean only. letsrock.co.kr 02-322-8488 October 14th Yanni The Olympic Gymnastics Stadium may not be quite on par with the Acropolis in Athens, but there’s no doubt that New Age legend Yanni will put on quite a show. 8 pm. W99,000 - W270,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555
Film Through September 20th The Ultimate Wave Tahiti 3D Only the most experienced surfers in peak physical condition can handle the barrel waves unleashed at Teahupo’o Beach in Tahiti. 63 Building, 63 Art Hall Digital 3D Film Section. 43 min. W11,000 - W12,000. Please visit the website for screening schedule. 63.co.kr 02-789-5663 Through October 2nd Korean Film Continuity Special Exhibition Considered “the invisible art,”
50 | 10 Magazine September 2011
continuity is an important part of filmmaking and an essential tool for communication. Korean Film Archive. Tue - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, weekends 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. koreafilm.or.kr 02-3153-2001
Family & Community Ongoing Dialogue in the Dark Experience the life of the visually impaired as you take a tour through darkness with your blind guide. Vertigo Tower in Sinchon. Weekdays 12 – 8:30 pm, weekends 10 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 W30,000. dialogueinthedark.co.kr 02-313-9977 Kukkiwon Taekwondo Demonstration Performance Every Wednesday and Saturday at 4 pm, a popular martial arts performance will be presented by Kukkiwon, home of the World Taekwondo Academy. Performed at Namsangol Hanok Village near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3 & 4). kukkiwon.or.kr 02-567-1058 Lunchtime Cultural Performances Twice a week every Tuesday and Thursday through October, 30-minute performances are held at 12:20 pm at the permanent outdoor stage at Global Street Plaza in Mugyo-dong, Jung-gu (located behind City Hall near City Hall Stn. (line 1, ex. 4). 02-2075-4135 Royal Horse Guard Parade A royal horse guard parade will depart from Deoksu Palace’s Daehan Gate every Tuesday through late October. City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 2). 11 am, 2 & 3 pm. 30 min. Free. deoksugung.go.kr 02-771-9951 Saturday Cultural Plaza Every Saturday at 2 pm, the Cultural Plaza at the National Theatre of Korea features free performances, open markets, and more. Shuttle available from Dongguk University Stn. (line 3, ex. 6). 5:30 pm. Free. ntok.go.kr 02-2280-4288 Wax Museum 70 hyper-realistic wax figures are exhibited in this 1652 square meter hall. 63 Building on Yeouido. 10 am - 10 pm. W14,000. 63waxmuseum.com 02-789-5663 Through December 25th Traditional Culture Experience Mi Su Da Try on hanbok (Korean traditional clothing), drink tea, and listen to Korean music with English, Chinese and Japanese guides. Seoul Namsan Gukakdang near Chungmuro Stn. (line 3, ex. 3 & 4). 90 min. W50,000. Tue - Sat 4 pm. Closed Mon & Sun. 90 min. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1114
Education & Conferences Ongoing Beginner’s Photography Class Korea’s only photo class taught by a real photographer and English native speaker. Every Sunday outside Mapo Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). W200,000 (group discount available). facebook.com/photoseoul, email@example.com 010-9609-9965 “Garuya Garuya” Kids’ Flour Workshop Because we’d all rather have our kids outside of the house when they’re playing with flour. PMC Kids Hall at COEX Artium. Weekdays 1 pm - 4 pm, weekends 10:20 am - 4:20 pm. (Sat 4:55 pm). Adult 17,000, kids W23,000. coex.co.kr 02-738-8289 Insect & Reptile Exhibition Who doesn’t love seeing bugs and snakes, especially when there’s a thick layer of plexiglass between you and them?
edi t or’ s p ick
US Army Yongsan Garrison’s RockFest September 3rd Concerts
Insect & Reptile Exhibition Center in Sindang Stn. (line 6). 10 am - 6 pm. W10,000. bugsfestival.com 1588-2019 Weekly Lecture on Buddhism Curious about the practice of Zen Buddhism? English lectures by Zen Master Subul Sunim and others will prove enlightening. 2:30 - 4:30 pm every Saturday except national holidays. Anguk Zen Center, 5 minutes on foot from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). angukzen.org 011-229-2829 Through September 18th The Return of the Oegyujanggak Uigwe from France The Oegyujanggak Uigwe (Records of the State Rites of the Joseon Dynasty), a priceless document from the Joseon Dynasty which was looted by French soldiers in 1866, has finally returned to Korea. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 9 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9487 Through September 25th Afterlife, the Journey to the Other World After death, comes the judgment— and in the case of this traditional Korean belief, not once but seven times. Learn more about these traditions at this exhibit. Kokdu Museum near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 1). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Kids W4,000, Adults W6,000. kokdumuseum.com 02-766-3315 Through November 30th Learn Korean Traditional Crafts Each Friday, foreigners are invited to attend classes on aspects of traditional Korean culture such as hanji (Korean paper), hanbok (Korean clothing), folklore and dance. Please call before you go as the class may be canceled if not enough people sign up. The National Folk Museum. 10 am - 12 pm.
Talented rock bands on stage, delicious American food on your plate, and free access to one of the most he av i ly g u a rde d areas in Seoul—the US Yo n g s a n A r m y B a s e , of cou rse. Jam to a party-ready lineup of Los Diablos Blancos (1 pm), Sotto Gamba (3 pm), Over the Hill and Far Away (5 pm), La Luna (7 pm), and LRD Band (8 pm). While you’re there, you can chow down on steak s a n d w iche s , bu r ge r s , bratwurst, and hot dogs. Oh, and don’t forget to stop by the 10 Magazine booth to say hi. R&R Bar and Grill Parking Lot (formerly the Main Post Club). Gate #2 is open to the public, located between Noksapyeong and Samgakji stations (line 6). If you don’t have a base pass, be sure to bring your passport or Korean national ID card. 12 – 10 pm. Free. 0505-723-8785 facebook.com/fmwryongsan W5,000 - W10,000. varanoteddymania@ gmail.com 02-3704-3104 August 31st - September 2nd Broadcast Worldwide With over 230 companies from 50 different countries. COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). 8/31 10:30 am - 6 pm, 9/1 10 am - 6 pm, 9/2 10 am - 3 pm. W130,000. bcww.net 02-6900-8862 September 1st - 5th Seoul Brand Furniture Fair See various kinds of furniture from over 150 furniture-building companies. COEX Hall A. 10 am - 6 pm. W10,000. mlfnet.co.kr 02-6300-2880 September 6th RASKB Lecture on North Korean Comics Under the title of “Spy Hunting, Rewriting the Korean War, and Sowing Fear of the World,” Jacco Zwetsloot will be presenting a lecture about how propaganda in the DPRK often takes the form of comic books. Somerset Palace. 7:30 pm. W5,000 for non-members. raskb.com Yeol Lecture: Seonbi A lecture on seonbi (선비), the Joseon scholargentlemen, and their contemporary relevance. Seoul Museum of History. 10:30 am - 12 pm. W10,000. Register at firstname.lastname@example.org. September 6th - 8th E-Learning EXPO Korea If you still don’t feel at ease with “smart” technology, this e-learning expo may be of assistance. COEX Hall C. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. elek.or.kr 02-2051-3326. September 21st - 23rd Lighting Fair 2011 COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). 10 am - 5 pm. W3,000. lightingfair.co.kr 02-6000-6676
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promot i o n
More Culture, Less Cost S e p te mb e r D e a l s w ith th e S e jo n g B e lt
Before you plan your next cultural outing, take a look at some great deals offered by the Sejong Belt this month. Buckle up and get ready for the ride Last month, we introduced you to the Sejong Belt. This consortium of over 40 performances, art galleries, and museums all located near Gwanghwamun offers great packages for culturally-minded tourists and long-term residents looking to fulfill the monthâ€™s quota of fun. The entertainment packages set up by the Sejong Belt can earn you savings of up to 50%, and this month, the Sejong Belt is offering some even better deals as part of the Seoul Welcome Campaign for foreigners. Two for the price of one Is one round of cultural discoveries just not enough? Through October 31st, when you purchase one of the top ten packages, you get one more free. This is an especially good choice for thrifty visitors who are hoping to get more bang for their buck during their time exploring Seoul. For a detailed description of the packages, see the table below. Readers should note that this is limited to the first 100 foreigners who apply per month, and each person can only get one free package.
Have it your way Another deal available for Sejong Belt customers is the D.I.Y. Package. A great option for choosy guests, this allows you to select from the numerous performances, exhibits, and restaurants that are part of the Sejong Belt group and create your own unique entertainment package. There are as many as 100 possible combinations. Taking care of the ticketing The Sejong Belt offers visitors all-in-one service for their cultural needs at the integrated ticketing info center, located at Gwanghwamun Plaza near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 9). Over the past year, over 280,000 people including as many as 30,000 foreigners have used the ticketing center to experience Korean culture. You can learn more about the available packages through the touch-screen computer console and the helpful staff, who can communicate in not only Korean but also English, Japanese, and Chinese. Open 10:30 am â€“ 8:30 pm. sejongbelt.com 02-399-1000
SEOUL CALENDAR September 27th RASKB Lecture on Muak-dong Come hear Fr. Mun-su Park talk about displacement, gentrification, and community-building in this neighborhood south of Inwangsan. Somerset Palace. 7:30 pm. W5,000. raskb.com September 28th - 30th Bio Korea This conference is not about biographies, but bio-technology. COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). One-day pass is W88,000. biokorea.org 02-3432-4557 September 29th - October 2nd Innovative Technology Show COEX near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 5 pm. Free. innotech.or.kr 02-2187-9600
September 24th Expat’s Festival: Soccer, Food, and Beer Party with thousands of other foreigners at the upcoming Expat’s Festival, sponsored by FC Seoul and 10 Magazine. The fun starts at 2 pm with a b-boy performance, concert, parade, game booths, and more. Then at 5 pm, everyone moves into the stadium for a rousing match between reigning K-League champions FC Seoul and the Daejeon Citizens. Admission to the game, a hotdog, a beer, and more: W10,000. Tickets are sold at a number of your favorite bars in Itaewon and Sinchon (see website for complete list). Seoul World Cup Stadium (near World Cup Stadium Station on line 6). 10mag.com/expatsfestival September 29th - October 2nd Hankyung Golf Exposition Golf attire, golf equipment, and screen golf. SETEC (Hagyeoul Station). W3,000. golfshow.kr 2011 K-League 18th Seoul vs Busan 24th Seoul vs Daejeon Both at Seoul World Cup Stadium at 5 pm 2011 Baseball Doosan Bears at Jamsil Stadium 1st vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 3rd vs Lotte Giants 5 pm 6th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 7th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm LG Twins at Jamsil Stadium 2nd vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 4th vs SK Wyverns 5 pm Nexen Heroes at Mokdong Stadium 3rd vs LG Twins 5 pm 4th vs Doosan Bears 5 pm 7th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm September 25th Seoul Recovery Memorial Marathon 6.25k, 9.28k, half, and full, to depart from Han River Park under Banghwa Bridge at 9 am. W30,000 - W40,000. Register by September 9th. 928seoul. com 031-791-9792 October 3rd International Peace Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart from Yeongdong Street at 9 am. W20,000. Register by September 2nd. peacemarathon.co.kr 02-2104-1976 October 9th Hi Seoul Marathon 10k, half, and full, to depart from Seoul Plaza near City Hall Station (lines 1 & 2) at 8 am. W30,000. Sign up now. hiseoulmarathon.com 02-338-1038 October 16th Love “Me” (米, Rice) Marathon 5k, 10k, and half marathon, to depart from Han River Park Event Square at 10 am. W30,000. Sign up now. nongminmarathon.com 02-338-6564
Ongoing Homemade Italian Luncheons Enjoy delicious Italian cuisine in a relaxing environment with Club Italia Seoul. Located at the Franciscan Foreign Kindergarten (franciscanfk.com) next to the Italian Embassy between Hannam Stn. (line 6) and Hangangjin Stn. (line 3). RSVP required. Each Sunday at 1 pm. W15,000. Search for “Club Italia Seoul” on Facebook. clubitalia.or.kr email@example.com Korean Cooking Classes and Tours Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English and explore some of Seoul’s more exciting culinary districts with O’ngo Food. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607
Sport & Fitness
Dine & Drink
September 23rd - 24th Oktoberfest at Grand Hilton Seoul Enjoy the well-known German beer festival right here in Seoul. Unlimited Paulaner beer, an elaborate buffet, and a German band make for an incredible evening at the Grand Hilton Seoul. W120,000. grandhiltonseoul.com 02-2287-7456
Travel Ongoing Palace Tours Youth volunteers are your guides at these free English tours at Deoksugung Palace, taking place every 2nd and 4th Saturday at 10 am & 2:30 pm. Admission to the palace is W1,000. firstname.lastname@example.org 02-3210-3266
Nightlife Ongoing Open Mic Night at Ireland Yuki Come enjoy the musings of Seoul’s best talent every Thursday at Ireland Yuki’s open mic. Registration begins at 7:30 pm and the show starts at 8 pm. Free admission. Bar Ireland Yuki in Itaewon (right next to Kraze Burger) near Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). email@example.com Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday at 8:30 pm. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place. Craftworks Taphouse is located near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon. com 02-790-0793 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on the first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, firstname.lastname@example.org Sunday Funday Seoul’s newest open mic comedy night, held on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of each month. Head down to the basement of the newly renovated Phillies Pub in Haebangchon at 7:30 (sign up at 7 pm). email@example.com September 30th Club Day After a 6-month hiatus, Club Day has returned to Hongdae. Entrance to M2, Via, DD, NB2, Saab, Qvo, Ska2, and other top Hongdae party spots along with a free drink only costs W20,000. 8 pm - 6 am. theclubday.co.kr
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SEOUL DIRECTORY Renaissance
Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293
Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322
Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641
Seoul Foreigner Assistance
ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-2199-8883~5
Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205
JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm. 02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771 Insurance
Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Law Firm
Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english
Noksapyeong Itaewon McDonald’s Market
Only takes 1 minute
Burger King Hannam-dong International Arcade
02-796-9052 Ambrosia Customized Embroidery You write it, he’ll sew it! It only takes a minute to have your name or message embroidered on hats, luggage tags, backpacks, T-shirts, ties and jackets. 56-9, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. mrnameonhat.co.kr 02-796-9052 Travel Agencies
Cosmojin Tour cosmojin.com Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr
Civil & Criminal
JM Law Group Hard to find a good lawyer in Korea? We at JM Law Group will fight for your legal rights from employment disputes to business transactions. For a free consultation, please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org
On hats & luggage tags
US & Korean Attorneys
54 | 10 Magazine September 2011
TBS eFM FM 101.3 American Forces Network AM 1530 / FM 102.7 Transportation
International Taxi (English Speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Hotels/Accommodations
KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788
Tufts Dental Clinic
Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 02-709-3139
A Few Good Lawyers
Ra Dental Clinic
Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972
War Memorial warmemo.or.kr
Crown Relocation Worldwide When your family is looking to move, trust your worldly possessions to the CV2011SG_May_pr003.indd 1 23/05/2011 15:33:40 professionals at Crown. 02-796-5717
New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health. F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296
Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com
Korean Safari koreansafari.com
WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575 Religious
Korean Cooking Classes with Ms. Chang Want to do more than sightseeing? How about taking a Korean cooking class? This is your chance to experience the everyday meals of a Korean family. koreancookingclasses. blogspot.com 010-7193-2068
Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326
O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769
Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com
A Plus Dental aplusnetworks.co.kr
Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological
Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center email@example.com Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma
Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church 02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at firstname.lastname@example.org
Islam Seoul Central Masjid
American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr. 02-795-1303
Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656
Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Korean Rainbow Christian Fellowship krcf.weebly.com Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com 02-706-2501 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284
Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ hotmail.com 010-8688-9810
Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or email@example.com Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101
Massage for the soul
FRESHLY GROUND BEEF
Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. firstname.lastname@example.org
International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. email@example.com 02-744-0756
Free weekday hot stone with ANY massage Hamilton Hotel
Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd 02-771-2026 Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021
Full Body Massage t Foot Massage t Couples Massage Hot Stone Massage t Accupressure t Package Standing Tanning Booth
firstname.lastname@example.org www.healinghands.co.kr 010.3158.5572
EST. 1984 Burgers are cooked up on their imported rotagrill. Hand-made burgers have become all the craze in Korea, and these are some damn good ones. est1894.com 02-792-1894 The Frypan
Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people. 02-798-1900
Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, email@example.com Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes firstname.lastname@example.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722 Community
Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. email@example.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969
Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540
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SEOUL DIRECTORY Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659
Le Saint-Ex Itaewon
Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907
FUSION RESTAURANT TEL: 02.749.0508
Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere. 02-797-0488
Noksapyeong Station Exit 2
French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon 02-796-1244
Indigo A cozy cafe boasting terrific international favorites like their chicken pesto sandwich and a legendary weekend brunch at great prices. Free wifi. 02-749-0508 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891
Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station. 02-553-9000 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheongdong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-7977 Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon
The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. We are hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698 T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies. Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000. 02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon
Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon
Taco Amigo Itaewon
Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon
SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686
Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today! 02-796-1660
Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food. 02-796-9330
Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon
Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071
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On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682
Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please. 070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon
Thai Orchid Itaewon
Thai Garden Itaewon
Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the
best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience. 02-749-2746~7 Bars/Lounges/Pubs
TWO GREAT LOCATIONS
B AR SHINCHON TEL:(02)3339733
PIZZA ITAEWON TEL:(02)7920007
Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong. 02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am. 02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am. 02-516-1970 The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am. 02-749-1210 Craftworks Taphouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALES Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends. 02-793-7232 Hollywood Grill Itaewon One of Itaewon’s oldest sports bars, it also has some of Itaewon’s finest pub grub. 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-1659
Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld. com/dulceysuave. 02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 11615 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 3alleypub.com 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm. 02-6282-6763
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w w w.b eeroclock.c a Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Gyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times. Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. firstname.lastname@example.org 02-749-0903
High Street Market (2nd floor)
HIGH STREET MARKET
IP Boutique Hotel Japan Plaza Buy the Way Exit #2
Cheil Building 제일기획
Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot
Itaewon Station Subway: Line 2 to Itaewon Station exit #2 Go straight and High Street Market is on your left Line 6 Hangangjin Station exit #1 Go straight and High Street Market will be on your right
B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am. 02-749-6164
Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine and all-day brunch with an extensive wine, cocktail and beer selection. This is the best that Noksapyeong/Gyeongnidan has to offer. More info on Facebook: “Noxa Lounge.” 02-790-0776
Phone: 02-790-5450, Fax: 02-790-5457 www.highstreet.co.kr www.twiter.com/highstreetseoul 10 Magazine September 2011 | 57
Phillies Haebangchon The legendary local bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings. 02-793-2548 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201
Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971 Beauty
Trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK
English service available
Call to make an appointment 070-4227-6158 / 010-3172-3177
Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon. Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair. 2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-4227-6158 Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl. webs.com 010-5839-9257 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am. 02-542-7412
Advertise in our Directory! It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU! email@example.com or 02-3447-1610 58 | 10 Magazine September May 2011 2011
All staff are qualified by VIDAL SASSOON.
Become a model and get a FREE make over. Mon~Sat: 10 am–9 pm Appointment only Tel. 02-512-3798~9
Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon. 02-512-3798 Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University. 02-338-2773
Club Hamilton Hotel Fire Station
[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333
Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490
InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank
Hyundai Department Store
LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.
Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong. 02-3453-4472 Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/ SoundHolic 02-3142-4233 Massage
Sunrat Tattoo Hongdae The guys behind the Inkbomb Tattoo Convention bring you old school tattoos, bright colors, and more. Open 1 - 9 pm. 2F Brotherworld, 325-25 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. sunrattattoo.com 02-336-5698
High Street Market Itaewon Freshbaked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in one shop. 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-5450
America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul. Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 Seokyo-Dong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu. 02-518-5115 Pulse Itaewon This chilled-out club pumps out danceable tunes in all genres of electronic music until sunrise. Everyday 8 pm – 7 am. Fri W10,000, Sat W15,000. 02-792-6662 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635
Caffé Bene Whether it’s coffee, gelato, or a waffle you’re looking for, you can find it at one of the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr 02-3438-6888 Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport. Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680
Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090
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GOOD TIMES LO C AT I O N S
Itaewon Jukjeon Busan Jeju
Gecko’s Terrace, Bonji Bistro, Gecko’s Garden Gecko’s Uyeong Plaza Tel 031 262 9974 Haeundae Beach Pale de CZ Tel 051 747 3069 Island Gecko’s Jungmun Tel 064 739 0845
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10 Magazine September 2011 | 59
GYEONGGI CALENDAR edi t or’ s p ick
Design & Fashion September 1st - 3rd Gyeonggi Design Festival Swap design secrets and see what’s hot in the world of design. Seeing Gyeonggi Province’s finest design will be sure to inspire your creative efforts. Kintex in Ilsan (Goyang). gdesignf.org 02-3475-2693
October 1st – 3rd
Building on a decidedly humble beginning in those rainy, sodden days of 2004 on Gapyeong’s Jara Island in the North Han River, Jarasum has emerged as Korea’s premier jazz experience, offering aural and visual delights to an ever-increasing audience. Jazz may still be outside the Korean music mainstream to many people, but on this weekend, it is truly in the vanguard. So what does this year’s festival offer up for discerning jazzheads and interested tyros? Up until 2007 all events were held on the island. The inclusion of various local government organizations in 2008 precipitated a move to the broader environs of Gapyeong city itself and has dramatically expanded the scope of both venues and musical presentations. The jury is still out on whether this has been the best move, but there’s no denying it has certainly increased the festival’s exposure and accessibility. It’s always a daunting task to delineate the acts to catch at Jarasum. One’s best bet is to check out the website (Korean and English) and sift through the artists and styles on offer, but a few notables this year deserve a mention. On the main stage Dhafer Youssef (Monday); Poncho Sanchez, Geri Allen, and Choi Sun-bae (Sunday); and Kjetil Bjornstad, Kurt Rosenwinkel and the primo Soul/Funk ensemble Tower Of Power (Saturday—absolute must-see!) are all highlights, as are Bae Jang-eun (Sunday, Festival Lounge), Mdungu, and Garion/Soul Steady Rockers (Saturday-Sunday, Party Stage). 2011 promises to continue the outstanding parade of quality that is the hallmark of this event. So, grab your tickets, book your room(s), and hie thee to Jarasum that first weekend in October—you know you’re going to love it! G e t t i n g Th e r e
The festival is easily accessible by bus as well as the Seoul subway system, with detailed directions on the website. Tickets are likely to sell out early. A one-day pass is W35,000, two-day W55,000, three-day W70,000. jarasumjazz.com 031-581-2813
Wor ds by Michael Berry
Art Ongoing Artists of the Year 1995-2010 A chance for visitors to encounter artists of the past and of the future. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, weekends 10 am - 9 pm. Closed Mon. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000 Through September 4th System-Pia Exhibition This exhibition offers a chance to peer inside the “operating system” of our society. Exhibition Hall at Young-eun Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwangju. 10 am 6 pm. Closed Mon. W2,000 - W4,000. youngeunmuseum.org 031-761-0137 Through September 25th Royal Academicians Exhibition See some of the finest work of the English artists who are currently members of the Royal Academy of Art. Cube Art Museum at Seongnam Arts Center near Imae Stn. (Bundang line, ex.1). 10:30 am - 7:30 pm. W3,000 - W6,000. snart.or.kr 031-783-8000 Through September 30th Forgotten War, Division of Country Commemorating the 60th anniversary of the Korean War, this exhibition has been extended through September. Exhibition Hall at National Museum of Contemporary Art. Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, weekends 10 am - 9 pm. Free. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000 Through October 16th French Art Today: Winners of the Marcel Duchamp Prize French contemporary art is the focus of this exhibit, which features more than 90 works by the 16 winners and nominees of the Marcel Duchamp Prize. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, weekends 10 am - 9 pm. Closed Mon. www.moca.go.kr/engN 02-2188-6124. September 23rd - November 22nd Gyeonggi World Pottery Biennale: Journey Through Fire Check out a wide range of pottery-themed exhibitions, performances, and more. Events are held at Cerapia in Icheon, Gonjiam Pottery Park in Gwangju, and Ceramic World in Yeoju. Adults W8,000, teens W6,000, children W4,000. One ticket gets you into all three locations. kocef.org 031-631-6501
Theater & Dance Ongoing Saturday Performance at Hwaseong Head down to Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon for court dancing, folk music, tight-rope walking, and more. Shinpungnu Square at Hwaseonghaenggung. Every Saturday at 2 pm. hs.suwon.ne.kr 031-251-4435 Through December 24th 2011 Vision: Our Dance Watch Korean dancers demonstrate their repertoire of traditional pieces. Cozy Small Theatre at Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. 5 pm. 90 min. W5,000 - W10,000. ggac.or.kr 031-230-3313 September 8th Art on Screen: Rent the Musical Ever wish you could travel to great classical and theatrical productions? Poncho Sanchez (left) and his Latin jazz band
60 | 10 Magazine September 2011
The Art on Screen series brings the performances to you. This month, see a recording of the Broadway performance of the musical Rent on the big screen. Gyeonggi Art Center. 10 am. W10,000. ggac.or.kr 031-230-3440 September 17th - 18th Musical Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde The musical Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde is coming to Suwon. In Korean. Gyeonggi Arts Center. Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 & 6:30 pm. W60,000 - W110,000. jekyllnhyde.co.kr 1588-5212
Concerts September 1st Seongnam Symphony Orchestra The Seongnam Symphony Orchestra will be performing Beethoven’s Leonore Overture, Glazunov’s Piano Concerto, and Mussorgsky’s Pictures at an Exhibition. Seongnam Art Center. 8 pm. W10,000. sn-pac.or.kr 031-729-4809 September 2nd Russian Night in Uijeongbu Head to Uijeongbu Art Center for a concert featuring pieces by Russian composers old and new that will illuminate the history of Russian classical music. Uijeongbu Arts Center. uac.or.kr 031-828-5841 September 2nd - 3rd Lee Mun-se Concert: Red Sunset in Anyang Acclaimed for the popular song “Red Sunset,” which was covered recently by K-pop superstars Big Bang, Korean performer and singer Lee Munse will be treating Anyang residents to his musical talent. Anyang Culture Center. ayac.or.kr 070-8667-8100 September 8th Ensemble Ditto Recital: “Impressionism” Ensemble Ditto, consisting of young classical musicians including violist Richard “Yongjae” O’Neill and cellist Michael Nicolas, has already made a successful debut in several countries. For this concert, they will be performing French classical music. Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. 7:30 pm. W30,000 W50,000. ggac.or.kr 031-230-3200 September 17th
Jang Yun-Jeong “Come Over” Concert Jang Yun-Jeong is known as the queen of trot. Her catchy tunes will show you why this disco-influenced genre keeps a tight grip on the older segment of the Korean market. Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. on the Bundang line. 3 & 6:30 pm. W55,000 W88,000. snart.or.kr 031-783-8000 Jo Yong-pil Concert Veteran singer Jo Yong-pil played no small part in the foundation of the modern Korean music scene. See the Dear Leader of K-pop at Wah Stadium in Ansan on his nationwide tour. Ansan Wah Stadium. 7:30 pm. W60,000 - W120,000. ticket.interpark.com 1644-4969 Kim Beom-Su: “Get All Night, I Am Beom-Su!” Concert Let us know if you figure out what the concert title means. We’re curious, too. Suwon Gymnasium. 7 pm. ticket.interpark.com 1544-9857
September 20th Han Tae-ju: Space Travel Through the Ocarina Ocarina player and prodigy Han Tae-ju released his first album at the age of 16. Uijeongbu Arts Center. 11 am . W10,000. uac.or.kr 031-828-5841 September 23rd Jeong Jae-hyeong “Avec Piano” Concert Jeong Jae-hyeong has become quite popular for his work as a composer and music director. Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. on the Bundang line. 9 pm. W40,000. snart.or.kr 031-783-8000 The Real Group in Concert Swedish a cappella group The Real Group performed to a crowd of 60,000 in the opening game of the 2002 World Cup in Seoul. Now they return to perform songs from their latest album. Icheon Art Hall, southeast of Seoul. 7:30 pm. W40,000 W60,000. artic.or.kr 031-644-2100
Family & Community Through September 4th Everland Summer Splash Guests at Everland this summer can enjoy the splash and moonlight parades and puppet shows as well as the ordinary rides. W29,000 - W38,000. everland.com 031-320-5000 Through November 30th Dongchun Circus See what 87 years in the Korean circus industry have taught the Dongchun Circus. Banga Meori Park on Daebu Island, west of Ansan. Adults W13,000, children W7,000. circus.co.kr 02-452-3112
Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball Games are held at Munhak Stadium, home of the SK Wyverns. 1st vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 2nd vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 6th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm K-League Football 10th Suwon vs Seongnam Suwon World Cup Stadium, 6 pm 17th Incheon vs Pohang Incheon World Cup Stadium, 7 pm 24th Incheon vs Ulsan Incheon World Cup Stadium, 7 pm September 25th Ecopia Gapteong Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full to depart from Gapyeong Sports Complex at 9:30 am. W15,000 - W35,000. Register by September 15th. gprun.com 031-919-2446 October 9th Munhwa Daily’s Paju Unification Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full to depart from Imjingak parking lot at 9 am. W30,000 - W40,000. Register by September 17th. marathon.munhwa.com 02-452-0202
Dine & Drink September 23rd - 25th Icheon Peach Festival Millions of peaches? These don’t come in a can, and they’re not free, either. Check out Icheon’s tastiest fruit at the Haetsarae Agricultural Products Distribution Center. peachfestival.co.kr 031-641-5215
gyeongGI province Religious Services
Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums
Central America Culture Center Goyang latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province) visagej.org 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051 Transportation
International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000
September 30th Brahms’ Famous Symphonies Series The W Philharmonic Orchestra will be performing Rachmaninoff’s Piano Concerto No. 3 in D Major as well as Brahms’s Symphony No. 2 in D Major at Seongnam Art Center in Seongnam (Bundang). 7:30 pm. W20,000 W30,000. wphil.kr 031-783-8000
US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Restaurants
Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com 032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs
The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, email@example.com Dublin Bar Bundang Open mic every Wednesday at 9 pm 031-708-7942 Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com 031-262-9974 The Park Bucheon There are three kinds of draft beer and cocktails for your thirst, Western food for your hunger, and four LCD TVs for your sports fixation. Jung-dong in Bucheon. Facebook group 010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Booze Bucheon Open mic nights, sports, concerts, and parties make this a favorite of Bucheon’s expats. Behind the CGV in Jung-dong. Open at 4 pm on Mon – Fri, 11 am on weekends. Facebook group 032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan Have a chat with the friendly staff or kick back and watch the fire show on Fri and Sat. 6 pm – 5 am. club.cyworld.com/westisland 031-917-2225 Clubs
Club Psycho Anyang General open mic every 3rd Friday of the month at 11pm. bcmusicworld.com 010-7754-0409
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Betting on Bicycles The Korean version of keirin is the perfect chance to enjoy some two-wheeled racing (and gambling) action. As the popularity of recreational cycling continues to grow, so does the accessibility of cycling-related events at the professional level. For the gambling crowd, Asia’s largest indoor velodrome is in Gwangmyeong, a Seoul suburb located just to the southwest of the capital. Speedom (스피돔) Cycle Race Velodrome is where the Korean professional keirin races are held just about every weekend of the year. Keirin is a track racing discipline that is very much like horse racing and was one of Japan’s contributions to the Olympic events roster. Essentially the same format as Japanese keirin racing, Korean keirin is an exciting format to watch, and is one of the most popular legal betting sports in Korea. Races in Busan and Gwangmyeong are broadcast live in several locations including the Olympic Velodrome in Olympic Park. The betting system is almost identical to the system used in horse races, with popular bets being the exacta (first two places in order), trifecta (first three places in order), quinella (first two places in any order), and so on. Race information is readily available in English, but don’t expect anyone to talk to you or show you how to go about it. The majority of the spectators that frequent the velodrome are ajeossis, but it’s not too hard to figure out. It’s an entertaining way to spend an afternoon out of the sun, and it’s fun to watch even if you don’t want to participate in the betting. G e t t i n g Th e r e
Haven’t been to Gwangmyeong before? Fortunately, Speedom is easily accessible on the Seoul metro. Head to Gwangmyeong Sageori Stn. (line 7) and get out at exit 4. Hop on bus #6637 at the first bus stop and five minutes later you’ll be at Gwangmyeongdong Gyeongryunjang (광 명동 경륜장) stop, right in front of the velodrome. speedom.kcycle.or.kr 080-008-5000 Wor ds by Chr is Chou, shots by K im Byeong -uk 10 Magazine September 2011 | 61
Check Out Cheonan
edi t or’ s p ick
Art Through September 25th
Gulf of Mexico Oil Spill, anonymous photographer for the New York Times
Donggang International Photo Festival Against the beautiful backdrop of Donggang, take part in exhibitions, workshops, portfolio reviews, and more. Donggang Photography Museum in Yeongwol-gun. W500 - W1,000. dgphotofestival.com 033-370-2227
September 17th Cycling Event Choose between a sixor twelve-hour course in Chuncheon. The six-hour course riders must meet at Chuncheon Stn. at 9 pm and the twelvehour course riders must meet at 6 am. A dinner will follow. W25,000 includes cost of prizes and refreshments. For more information, please email email@example.com October 23th Chuncheon Int’l Marathon Full, to depart from Chuncheon Gongjichun Civil Park at 9 am. W40,000. Register by August 30th. marathon.chosun.com 02-724-6333 September 25th Pyeongchang Marathon Full, half, 10k, 5k to depart from Daegwallyeong at 8:30 am. W10,000 W35,000. Register by September 8th. run1080.com 042-638-1080
Performances Through November 27th Arirang Music Theatre Every 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd, and 27th, you can experience Korea’s history through folk songs including Arirang. Jeongseon Cultural Art Center. 4:40 pm. muyonsi. com 033-560-2548
Yangyang Song-i Mushroom Festival GANGWON
September 29th – October 3rd
Dine & Drink
Dig up Korea’s forest gem at the Song-i Mushroom Festival. Each September, a humble festival shoots up in Yangyang, a small town in the backyard of Mount Seorak. The main attraction? It’s as rare as a pop idol with no make-up on, and just as high maintenance. But no worries, as the only drama the song-i mushroom (송이, pine mushroom) will cause is in your mouth. The elusive nature and distinctive taste of the song-i mushroom brings people from around Korea and the world to this festival held alongside the Namdaecheon stream. Yangyang is in fact one of the few Korean towns where you can still find the very finicky mushroom growing. Luckily, the charming town shares their crop with the rest of us. The five-day festival fills the streets with information booths, tastings, and of course stalls selling the top-rated mushrooms. Performances, carnival games, and local charm are all a bonus at the little festival. If you’re really keen on fungi, sign up to wander into the otherwise strictly prohibited habitat of the mushroom. A tour guide (available in multiple languages) will feed you information on the cli mate, the fa r m i ng, and the history of the song-i mushroom in Yangyang. If you’re lucky, you might be one of the few that gets to harvest one. The trip out and back will t a ke a rou nd a n hour. G e t t i n g Th e r e
Express buses run from most major cities out to Yangyang. The festival is located a five-minute walk from the bus terminal. If you can’t take a direct bus, the next biggest town is Sokcho. After arriving, take the local 9 bus past Naksan and get off in Yangyang. song-i.yangyang.go.kr 033-670-2724 Wor ds by J udi th A n n C la ncy shots by J udi th C la ncy and Emma Stoya nova Sh i ekova
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gangwon PROVINCE Hotels/Accommodations
September 25th Paul Potts Concert Baekryong Art Center at Kangwon University in Chuncheon. W55,000 - W99,000. ticket. interpark.com 033-764-1313 October 1st - 3rd Playground Music and Camping Festival Can’t decide whether to go camping or go to a concert? This festival may be the answer you were looking for. Bring a tent, cook your own food, and enjoy some talented bands at Jungdo island in the Bukhan River, which flows through the middle of Chuncheon. playgroundfestival.co.kr 070-4411-5150
Family & Community August 30th - September 4th Chuncheon Makguksu and Dalkgalbi Festival At Chuncheon, you can taste makguksu and dalkgalbi, the most famous local dishes. Restaurants around Songam Sports Town. mdfestival.com 033-250-4347 September 24th - 25th Donghae Squid Festival You can try cooking a variety of dishes made of squid. Mangsang Beach. dhtour.go.kr 033-530-2631 September 28th - October 2nd Gangwon Gamyeong Culture Festival During the Joseon period, gamyeong (감 영) were the residences of the provincial governor. Today, the only one remaining is found in Wonju. Tour the premises and watch a parade of locals dressed up as their ancestors once did. gamyeong.com 033-766-1838 September 30th – October 3rd Jeongseon Arirang Festival Since way back in 1976, Jeongseon-gun has been holding a festival celebrating Jeongseon Arirang, the folk song which is Gangwon Province’s #1 intangible cultural property. Held around the 5-day marketplace in Jeongseon-eup. arirangfestival.kr 033-563-2646
Sport & Fitness K-League Football 10th Gangwon vs Sangju, 7 pm 18th Gangwon vs Swuon, 3 pm Both at Gangneung Sports Complex
Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454
Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng
Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755
Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp 033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078
Restaurants Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999
CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR Art September 3rd - November 6th Gongju International Art Festival Around 500 artists from the US, China, Japan, and other countries will be taking part in the region’s biggest art expo. Limlip Art Musium. limlipmuseum.org 041-856-7749 Through October 30th Lee Eung-no and Marco Polo Displaying Marco Polo-related artwork by painter Lee Eung-no. 10 am - 7 pm. Lee Ungno Art Museum in Daejeon. W300 - W500. ungnolee.daejeon.go.kr Through December 11th Eternal Dream Exhibit Learn about life in China as it was 2,000 years ago with these 100 artifacts from the Han Dynasty. Asia Museum in Daejeon. W6,000 - W10,000. asiamuseum.asia 042-863-0055
Concerts September 10th Namjin Concert Cheongju Arts Center. 3 & 7 pm. W50,000 - W80,000. ticket.interpark.com 043-267-9311 September 17th Kim Kyung Ho Concert Cheongju Gymnasium. 4 & 7:30 pm. W55,000 W75,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 September 17th - 18th Nanta Non-Verbal Performance Chungju Culture Center. Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 1 & 4 pm. W20,000 - W30,000. ticket.interpark.com 1566-7674.
Family & Community September 1st - 4th Goesan Chili Festival Eating contests, traditional sport events, and more. Culture and Sports Center in Goesangun. festival.goesan.go.kr 043-830-3114 September 2nd - October 3rd Geumsan World Ginseng Expo They may be bitter, but the twisted roots known as ginseng have some major health benefits. International Ginseng Distribution Center in Geumsan-gun. W4,500 in advance, W5,000 at the door. insamexpo.or.kr 041-750-8400 September 23rd - 25th Hongseong Naepo Festival The reenactments at this festival commemorate important events in the Korean independence movement against Japan. Around Hongju Castle in Hongseonggun. naepofestival.com 011-221-8748
Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball Games are held at Daejeon Stadium, home of the Hanwha Eagles 2nd vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 4th vs KIA Tigers 5 pm 7th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm K-League Football 17th Daejeon vs Daegu at Daejeon World Cup Stadium, 7 pm September 2nd - 8th Chungju World Martial Arts Festival You can admire the impressive moves
October 2nd Dong-A Daily’s Gongju Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full to depart from Gongju Citizen Stadium at 9 am. W10,000 - W40,000. Register by September 16th. donga-marathon.com 02-361-1425
CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789 Daejeon firstname.lastname@example.org
Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978
Entertainment O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820 Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000
Religious Service Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan 041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan 041-555-5100 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju 041-855-0691 Sanseong Church Daejeon email@example.com 042-585-8111
Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877
Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008
Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000
Good Food with Good Friends Make some new culinary discoveries—and some new friends—with this Cheonan eating group. Two days after arriving in Korea I summoned up the courage to wander out of my new apartment for something to eat. I walked around the corner to a seafood restaurant. I figured if I looked hungry and pointed at something on the menu I would end up with food. I was greeted by a Korean family who upon figuring out that I was alone did a lot of arm Xs and head shaking, ushering me quickly out the door. I fled back to my apartment and ate ramen for the next two weeks. Six months later, I had made friends, learned important vocabulary like kimbap (김밥, rice wrapped in seaweed), and figured out that that first restaurant was a group-only eatery as opposed to just being inhospitable. It was also around this 6-month mark that I discovered a group called Eating Out in Cheonan. Founded by 5-year Korean veteran Jackie Bolen, a professor at Hoseo University, the group is open to anyone and goes out about every other week for a couple hours of good food and great conversation. There are several core members, mostly other professors, who attend on a regular basis. Kimberly Bethea, who has been going for several years, describes it as “a great opportunity to see good friends and meet new people.” I’ve attended several times and was thrilled to discover a vegan restaurant in my neighborhood that I would not have found otherwise. On that outing, a friend commented, “I wish I had known about this when I first got here. It makes trying new places a lot less intimidating.” The Eating Out in Cheonan group is a great way not only to discover new food in Korea, but also to increase your circle of friends. If you’re new to the area this is the group for you. Or if, like me, you’ve had your awkward eating alone moments and would like to try one of those family-style restaurants, rest assured that you will find a family here. You can find the group on Facebook by searching “Eating Out in Cheonan” or contact Jack ie Bolen by email at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Wor ds by Lucy Beaucla ir
Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan 041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju 043-215-3311
Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook. 043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook, 010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook. 042-825-4157 042-471-3373 Sponge Daejeon
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September 28th - October 3rd Cheonan Heungtaryeong Dance Festival This yearly Cheonan festival is vying to become Korea’s hottest dance festival, with folk performances from various countries in genres ranging from bellydance to breakdance. Samgeori Park, Dongnam-gu Office Plaza, and other venues in Cheonan. festival.cheonan.go.kr
of martial art performers from afar and also get up close and learn some useful techniques from the masters. Chungju World Martial Arts Park. martialarts.or.kr 043-850-7977
edi t or’ s p ick
Art Ongoing Dalmaji Hill Free Market A bustling arts market that is held every Saturday from 3 - 10 pm in Haewoljung (Pavilion) Plaza in Busan. Local artists gather to sell their crafts, draw caricatures, and perform old pop songs. english.busan.go.kr 1330
Theater & Dance
Top A Book from the Sky, Xu Bing. Photo by Xu Bing via artspeakchina.org. Left Sound of Buddha, Ahn Sung-keum. Viewers complete the image by sitting between the two halves of the Buddha sculpture. Photo by Ahn Sung-keum.
通 | 통 | Tong: Haein Art Project September 23rd – November 6th
One of Korea’s best Buddhist sites just got better. Haeinsa Temple, located in Gaya Mountain National Park west of Daegu, is a popular destination both as one of Korea’s three “jewel temples” and one of the head temples of the Jogye Buddhist order. The other big draw for this mountain retreat is the Tripitaka Koreana (팔만대장경, Palman Daejanggyeong), 81,258 woodblocks containing the entirety of the Buddhist scriptures. These were carved by hand (not printed) from 1011 to 1087—and then once again from 1236 to 1251 after the originals were destroyed in a Mongol invasion. This fall, Haeinsa is marking the millennial anniversary of the Tripitaka Koreana with the temple’s first exhibition of contemporary art. Just as the woodblocks stored here were first commissioned to bring unity to Koreans and spark a cultural revival, this exhibit looks to synthesize ideological, national, and linguistic differences by bringing together the work of 34 artists from 10 countries. The pieces on display in this exhibition are organized into three sections, joined by the common theme of Tong found in the title, which refers to the Chinese and Korean characters that mean “link, passage, opening.” Visitors meet the Tong of Matter in Buddhist-influenced art at the Haeinsa Seongbo Museum (haeinsamuseum.com), down the mountain from the temple. As they walk up toward the main complex, they can pause to examine the sculptures and video installations that compose the Tong of Space. Finally, they come to the Tong of Thought in the Gugwangru temple hall inside Haeinsa (haeinsa.or.kr), made up of paintings by 12 international artists. G e t t i n g Th e r e
Making your way to Haeinsa is a mini-pilgrimage. Start by heading to Daegu on the KTX and getting off at Dong Daegu Station. From here, transfer to subway line 1 toward Daegok until Seongdangmot Station. Just outside of exit 3 you’ll find the Seobu Sioe (서부시외, West Intercity) Bus Terminal, where you can board a bus bound for Haeinsa. After an hour and forty minutes, the bus will deposit you at the final stop high on Gaya Mountain: the temple at last! haeinart.org 055-934-3175 Wor ds by dav i d carruth
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Ongoing Korean Music and Dance in Busan Performances take place every Saturday at the National Gugak Center in Busan. 4 pm. W8,000. busan.gugak.go.kr 051-811-0040 Through September 22nd Younghonam Theatre Festival Experience the another side of theatre culture in Korea with this festival. A variety of performances under the motto of “Culture is fun and the city is the stage” will be held in Gumi. W10,000. blog.naver.com/f_town Through September 25th Helping You Find Love: The Musical For those who like love stories, or just want to experience some vicarious romance. In Korean. CK Art Hall at the CK Dental Clinic in Ulsan. Closed during Chuseok (9/10 - 9/13). Weekdays 7:30 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 & 5:30 pm. W40,000. cafe.naver.com/ckarthall 052-270-2690 September 24th The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy Fall in love with The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy, an acrobatic musical that tests the actors’ dance moves as much as their voices. 3.15 Art Center Grand Theater in Changwon. showbboy.com 055-293-1959 A Street Car Named Desire: The Play Tennessee Williams’ groundbreaking play will be performed in an experimental “pod theatre” style, in which the audience moves with the actors to different rooms to experience the show in a unique and intimate way. Presented by the Daegu Theatre Troupe at the Daegu YMCA. daegutheatre.com email@example.com September 29th - 30th The Magic Flute: The Opera The Ulsan Munsu Opera Troupe will put on The Magic Flute, one of Mozart’s greatest operas, at the end of this month. Ulsan Culture and Art Center. 8 pm. W20,000 - W50,000. ucac.or.kr 052-275-9623 September 29th - October 29th
Die Entführung aus dem Serail (The Abduction from the Seraglio), Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
Daegu Int’l Opera Festival Daegu is known for its textile factories, beautiful gals, and...opera? See Aida, Dido and Aeneas, Madame Butterfly, and other performances at venues including the Daegu Opera House, Keimyung Art Center, and Suseong Artpia. W10,000 - W70,000. diof.org 053-666-6111 September 26th Frida Kahlo’s Blue House: The Dance The story of Mexican painter Frida Kahlo comes to life with this performance by the Donlon Dance Company. Gyeongnam Province Culture and Arts
Center in Jinju. 8 pm. W30,000 W50,000. gncac.com 1544-6711
Concerts Ongoing Miso II: Shilla, Land of the Gods Gyeongju, the ancient capital of the Silla Dynasty, hosts Miso II: Silla, Land of the Gods, a non-verbal performance produced by the same creative team that brought us Miso. The show illustrates the thousand-year history of Silla with age-old Korean dance and music. Held at the Expo Cultural Center of the Gyeongju World Culture Expo. 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 – W50,000. misoshilla.com 054-740-3800 Through October 16th Our Melodies, Our Culture (우리가락 우리문화) This ongoing event presents a combination of Korean traditional music and various traditional performances. Every Sunday at Mt. Yongdu Park in Busan. 3 pm. Free. bscf.or.kr 051-744-7707 September 3rd - September 4th JK Kim Dong-uk Concert Unlike other entertainers, JK Kim Dong-uk concentrates on only singing his own music. Ulsan KBS Hall. Sat 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. W66,000 - W88,000. ticket.interpark.com 1566-5490 September 6th Seven Musicians in Jinju Famous pianist Jeong Myeong-hun is joined by six other great solo musicians to provide an astonishing performance of Brahms Piano Quartet No. 3 and other pieces. Gyeongnam Province Culture and Arts Center in Jinju. 8 pm. W20,000 W60,000. gncac.com 1544-6711 September 8th – 9th Gold Panda on Tour UK musician Derwin Panda draws upon house, rave, dubstep, and hip-hop for his scintillating electronic work. 9/8: Urban in Daegu. 9/9: Interplay in Busan. 10 pm. W15,000 in advance, W20,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com September 15th Perfume Genius on Tour Seattlebased indie songwriter Mike Hadreas lets the piano carry his haunting, heartbreaking songs. Interplay in Busan. W16,000 in advance, W20,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com September 17th Jang Hye-jin in Concert If you’ve been watching the elimination reality show “I Am a Singer,” you’ll recognized singer Jang Hye-jin. Cheonma Art Center at Yeongnam University in Jeongsan. 3 & 7 pm. W77,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 1566-1360 Yun Su-il Band on Tour Yun Su-il, most well-known for his chart-topping hit “Apartment,” has been performing since 1977. Andong Culture & Art Center. 7 pm. W55,000 - W99,000. andongart.go.kr 070-8851-8001 September 18th Monday Kids in Concert This group of three powerful vocalists has just released the album Memories Cantare after a three year hiatus. Cheonma Art Center at Yeongnam University in Jeongsan. 2 & 6 pm. W66,000 - W77,000. ticket.interpark.com 1566-1360 September 22nd Yuhki Kuramoto: “The Story of Fall” Concert Japanese singer-songwriter Yuhki Kuramoto is famous for his touching new age piano music. Cheonma Art Center at Yeongnam University in Jeongsan. 8 pm. W40,000
GYEONGSANG calendar - W100,000. ticket.interpark.com 053-810-1525 September 23rd - October 1st Lee Mun-Se Tours Gyeongnam Enjoy a night out with one of Korea’s greatest performers, Lee Mun-se, as he visits two of Gyeongsang Province’s port cities. 9/23 - 9/24: Gimhae Arts and Sports Center. W77,000 - W99,000. 1599-7448. 9/30 - 10/1: Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Center for Students in Pohang. W88,000 W99,000. 1599-2005. Fri 7 pm, Sat 8 pm. ticket.interpark.com September 24th - 25th Diva Insooni’s “Fantasia” Concert Like Hines Ward, singer Insooni is a Korean of mixed descent (Korean mother, African-American father) who has achieved fame here. Ulsan KBS Hall. Sat 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. W66,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 1566-5490 October 1st - 3rd
finest cultural sites, including Bulguk Temple and Seokguram Grotto. While there, be sure to catch a performance of Miso II. Gyeongju World Culture Expo Park. cultureexpo.or.kr 054-748-3011 September 10th and 24th Moonlit Love Walking Festival If you and your sweetie pie are in search of something romantic and entertaining, this walking tour in Mungyeong Seje Provincial Park may be it. 2:50 pm. W8,000 – W10,000. mgmtour.co.kr September 16th - 18th Mungyeong Omija Festival The omija fruit (오미자) is so-named because it has five different flavors: sweet, sour, spicy, salty and bitter. Head to Mungyeong, the primary producer of the fruit, to drink omija slushies, make omija balloon art, and much more. 5mija.kr 054-554-7555
at Changwon Soccer Center, 7 pm 24th Daegu vs Suwon at Daegu Citizen Stadium, 7 pm 24th Gyeongnam vs Gangwon at Changwon Soccer Center, 7 pm 25th Sangju vs Pohang at Sangju Citizen Stadium, 7 pm KBO Baseball All Busan games held at Sajik Stadium, home of the Lotte Giants. 1st vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm 6th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm 7th vs KIA Twins 6:30 pm All Daegu games held at Daegu Field, home of the Samsung Lions.
1st vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 3rd vs Hanwha Eagles 5:00 pm October 16th Dong-A Daily Gyeongju Int’l Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart from Hwangsung Citizen Stadium in Gyeongju at 9 am. W10,000 W40,000. Register by September 16th. marathon.donga.com 02-361-1425 Sangju Dried Persimmon Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart from Sangju Citizen Stadium at 9 am. W10,000 - W40,000. Register by September 30th. run1080.com 042-638-1080
September 22nd - 25th Gyeongnam Sacheon Aerospace Expo Since 2005, Sacheon in South Gyeongsang Province has held an aerospace expo. There are plenty of aviation-related exhibits and activities, but most visitors will be coming to see the air show, held 9/23 - 9/25 at Sacheon Airfield. festival.aerospace.go.kr 055-831-2061
Education & Conferences Hallyu Dream Festival The first two days of the festival hold a fan signing with Ryu Si-won, the Rice Cake and Alcohol Feast, and other miscellaneous activities. But the main event is the Hallyu Dream Concert held on Monday (a holiday) from 6:30 - 10 pm, with Girls’ Generation, 2PM, Dongbangsingi, Shinee, Miss A, and more. Gyeongju Indoor Gymnasium and the Gyeongju Citizens’ Stadium. hallyudreamfestival.or.kr 053-950-3333
Family & Community
September 2nd - 5th Busan Int’l Travel Fair Now in its 14th year, the travel fair will give guests a chance to hear folk performances and try on traditional clothing in addition to the normal displays. BEXCO in Busan. 10 am - 6 pm. bitf.co.kr 051-888-8221
Ongoing World Confucianism Festival This festival will not only give you a chance to learn about Confucianism but also to experience its forms of artistic expression. Daetagol in Yeongyang-gun. worldcf.co.kr 054-851-7181
Through October 9th Marathon Hero Son Gi-Jeong Exhibition To celebrate the opening of the IAAF World Championships in Daegu, the Daegu National Museum will be exhibiting souvenirs collected by marathoner Son Gi-jung, who was a gold medalist in the 1936 Berlin Olympics. Daegu National Museum. daegu.museum.go.kr 053-768-6051
Sports & Fitness August 27th – September 4th
Through September 3rd Colorful Daegu Festival Celebrating the Daegu IAFF World Championships, this festival provides spaces around the city for artists and citizens to come out and participate in a variety of fun events. Events held at six different places including Daegu City Hall Square. cdf.or.kr 053-803-3768 Through September 4th Summer Kids Park with Miffy Visit Summer Kids Park with Miffy the rabbit and check out the nation’s biggest indoor playground complete with year-round sledding and moon walks. Changwon Exhibition Convention Center (CECO). 10 am - 7 pm. W12,000 W14,000. m-play.co.kr 1666-3308 Through October 10th
Gyeongju World Culture Expo Learn about a variety of different cultures at this festival amidst some of Korea’s
IAAF World Championships The IAAF (International Association of Athletics Federation) track and field championships are the third biggest global sporting event after the Olympic Games and the FIFA World Cup, and will be the largest sports event on earth in 2011 as 201 out of 212 IAAF member federations are participating. Athletics fans can look forward to record-breaking performances at Daegu Stadium with its recently unveiled stunning blue track. daegu2011.org 053-803-9434 K-League Football 10th Pohang vs Gwangju at Pohang Steelyard, 5 pm 10th Daegu vs Seoul at Daegu Citizen Stadium 7 pm 11th Busan vs Daejeon at Main Stadium of Busan Asiad, 7 pm 17th Ulsan vs Sangju at Ulsan Munsu Stadium, 5 pm 18th Gyeongnam vs Jeonbuk
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Andong International Mask Dance Festival W o r ds and sh ot s by S i mo n B o n d
September 30th – October 9th
The custom of wearing masks to ward off spirits or even pretend to be a spirit is prevalent in more than one culture. How many of us have dressed up and used masks at Halloween? In Korea, the culture and history of the mask is celebrated once a year in the town of Andong and the nearby folk village of Hahoe (하회, pronounced “Hah-hway”).
he tradition of mask dance in Korea goes back centuries, and such dances were once used in shamanistic rituals. In the village of Hahoe, these traditions are preserved today by a mask dance team that performs mudong madang (무동마당), in which the dancers make an offering to a goddess for health and wealth. The troupe 66 | 10 Magazine September 2011
then performs a second act called juji madang (주지마당), which promises an abundant harvest, and finally a dancer chases away demons. The stage has now been sanctified and other acts follow. The festival also features performers from across Korea and around the world. Dance troupes from China, Russia, India, Israel, Malaysia, Taiwan, the Philippines, and Thailand give an international flavour to this event. Performances by these groups are scattered across Andong and Hahoe and are held several times over the course of the week-long festival. The main festival site also offers people the chance to make their own mask, enjoy a fashion show featuring naturally dyed garments, and watch some younger mask dance performers in action. And of course there is the charm of the Hahoe folk village itself, which has been visited by foreign dignitaries including the Queen of England and President George Bush.
Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-668-7900 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 052-229-2810
Ulsan Global Center Ulsan Online
Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm. Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218
Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530
In addition to the mask dance performances held in Hahoe, the high point of the festival is the seonyujulbul nori (선유줄불놀이). This spectacular fireworks display is based on a boat in the Nakdong River. In the past, the custom was for poets to write poems and once one of these was finished people would shout, “Drop the fire.” Today, there is just the one boat on the river with several people dressed in hanbok serenading the watching crowd. The custom of dropping bundles of fire from the top of the cliff is still followed as well. The traditional fireworks provide the true magic, though. Where Western fireworks shows are all over in a flash and a bang, these fireworks romance the crowds as they drop sparkles of fire rain on the beach for around an hour. The fireworks are suspended across the river on sets of wire, which rather resemble huge washing lines. Once lit, you can even stand between these wires as the sparks fall all around you. And yes, it really does feel like fire rain. Getting There
On arrival in Andong you’ll find a large festival site about 10 minutes walk from the bus terminal, and 15 minutes from the train station. Those who want to head onto Hahoe village need to cross the road and find bus #46, which takes 40 minutes to get to the village. • maskdance.com 054-841-6397
Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews. Busan Station. 051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae. 051-742-2959 Daegu Berkeley Italian Hof Street. 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. buythebookcafe@ yahoo.com Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street. 053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base. 8 am – 10 pm. 053-475-5242 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos. 053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University. 053-214-1916
Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. firstname.lastname@example.org Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae. 051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University. 051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach. 051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. email@example.com 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, firstname.lastname@example.org 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)
Live Music Venues Club Interplay Busan cafe.daum.net/ interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Club Heavy Daegu cafe.daum.net/ clubheavy96 010-2338-1340
Religious Services Baekangro Church Busan 051-8983740 Bujeon Church bujeon.org 051-807-3331 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403 Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096
Advertise in our Directory! email@example.com or 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine September 2011 | 67
Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670 Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051-747-3069 Il Sole Italian Quality food with a great view of Haeundae Beach. 051-747-4253
Samarkland Russian Daegu station. 053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867 Gumi Waegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers, seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com 054-444-3775
JEOLLA CALENDAR Art Through September 25th Sagunja Exhibition “Sagunja” is a term referring to the four plants—the apricot, bamboo, chrysanthemum and orchid— which Joseon scholars admired. Art Hall at Jeonju National Museum. 9 am - 6 pm (Sat 9 am - 9 pm, Sun 9 am - 7 pm). Closed Mon. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651 Through October 2nd Sweet Sweet Toy Story Children will enjoy this display of crafts and dolls of popular characters and robots. Kids Gallery at Main Building of Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am - 6 pm. (Wed 9 am - 9 pm). Closed Mon. W200 - W500. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-7134 Through October 31st Truc Art Special Exhibition If you don’t look closely, these 2D works of art might trick you into thinking they’re 3D. That’s exactly what truc means in French: “trick.” Manseon House at the Yusan Resort in Muju-gun. W12,000. 10 am - 8 pm. trucart.com 1599-0849
Theater & Dance Ongoing Sinpan Norum: 12 Acts This performance, held the fourth Saturday of each month at 4 pm, combines elements of pansori, gutpan, changgeuk, and other traditional Korean art forms. Yewondang at National Center for Korean Folk Performing Area in Namwon. ntmc.go.kr 063-620-2324 Through November 6th Ariul Arirang: The Musical Every Saturday and Sunday, come to hear the story of a woman and the world’s largest seawall, Ariul. Ariul Art Hall in front of the 33 Center at the Saemangeum Seawall in Gunsan. 2 pm. 60 min. W3,500 W7,000. ariulart.com 063-280-3150 September 2nd - 4th Cats: The Musical In Korean. Sori Art Center in Jeonju. W40,000 - W120,000. musicalcats.co.kr 063-270-8000
Concerts September 3rd
September 16th Ensemble Ditto Recital: “Impressionism” Ensemble Ditto consisting of young classical musicians including violist Richard “Yongjae” O’Neill and cellist Michael Nicolas, has already made a successful debut in several countries. For this concert, they will be performing French classical music. Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W20,000 - W50,000. ticket.interpark.com 063-270-8000
JEOLLA September 7th Gold Panda on Tour UK musician Derwin Panda draws upon house, rave, dubstep, and hip-hop for his scintillating electronic work. Nevermind in Gwangju. 10 pm. W15,000 in advance, W20,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com
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September 30th - October 2nd
September 17th - 18th Lee Seon-Hui Concert The Korean diva is back! Famous as the first Korean diva to perform at Carnegie Hall in New York, Lee is now holding a concert in Jeonju. Chonbuk National University Cultural Center. 9/17: 7 pm. 9/18: 5 pm. W66,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 063-270-2089 September 18th Tae Jin-a vs. Song Dae-gwan Trot Concert Tae Jin-a and Song Dae-gwan have long been frenemies in the genre of trot in the Korean music industry. On September 18th, they are holding a joint concert to let you get a taste of Korean music from the 60s and 70s. Mokpo Culture and Sports Center. 3 & 6:30 pm. W55,000 - W88,000. ticket.interpark.com 061-283-5962 September 30th - October 4th
Jeonju International Sori Festival Sori (소리) means “sound” in Korean, but there’s more to it than that. It’s also one of the genres of Korean traditional music (more commonly called pansori (판소리). Head to Jeonju to see performances by some of today’s greatest living pansori artists, as well as musicians from countries around the world. Sori Arts Center and the Jeonju Hanok Village. sorifestival.com 063-232-8398
Family & Community Through September 4th Namwon Herb Festival Experience the exotic scents and flavors of Namwon’s herbs, located in the shadow of Jiri Mountain. Herb Valley in Namwon. herbfestival.or.kr 063-620-4892
Lee Eun-mi “In the City” Concert Lee Eun-mi, one of the mentors for participants in the TV competition Great Birth (위대한 탄생), is doing another concert tour this year. Feel the passion and energy she pours into her life as an artist. Chonbuk National University Cultural Center. 4 & 8 pm. W66,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 063-270-2089
September 25th Gimje Horizon Festival Starting with the parade of locals wearing traditional clothing, this festival invites you to experience a variety of aspects of Korean history. Held throughout Gimje, just west of Jeonju. festival.gimje.go.kr 063-540-3031
September 2nd - 4th Jangsu Beef and Apple Festival There’s one thing you can’t miss about Jangsu-gun’s local foods: plenty of red! See if the region’s beef and apples are as good as they’re cracked up to be at this festival. Various sites in Jangsu-gun, southeast of Jeonju. jangsufestival.com 063-350-5449 September 23rd - 25th Bulgap Mountain Magic Lily Festival The majority of Korea’s sangsahwa (상사화, magic lily) are found around Bulgap Mountain. The events are held at Bulgap Temple in Yeonggwang-gun. yeonggwang.go.kr/02en 061-350-5594 Wanju “Wild Food” Festival At this festival organized by Wanju-gun, visitors can eat healthy food harvested from the wild, camp in nature, and fish in the stream. RV Park and the Gosan Forest in Wanju-gun. wanju.go.kr 063-240-4114
JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com
Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084
The Great Battle of Myeongryang Festival This festival is held near the site of Myeongryang Battle, one of Yi Sun-sin’s most brilliant victories against the Japanese invasion. With 13 battleships and some masterful strategy, Lee crushed a fleet of several hundred Japanese vessels. Events held near Jindo Bridge between Haenam-gun and Jindo Island. mldc.kr 061-286-5251 Iksan Seodong Festival It was in Iksan that the romantic song Seodongyo was written. Learn more about the eternal love of Seodong and Princess Sunhwa and the history of Baekje at this festival. Central Athletic Park in Iksan. seodong. iksan.go.kr 063-831-0541 September 30th - October 4th Filial Loyalty of Shimcheong Festival In the pansori (판소리, Korean folk song) of the same name, Shimcheong throws herself into the sea to restore her father’s eyesight. Explore Korean values of past and present at this festival held at the Train Village by the Seomjin River in Gokseong-gun. simcheong.com/festival/ sub01/01 061-363-2011
Education Ongoing GIC Talks Take advantage of English lectures by professors, writers, and diplomats that promote communication and mutual understanding among Koreans and international residents. Topics include a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 3 – 4:30 pm. Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Haenam Dinosaur Museum As the first such museum in the region, the Haenam Dinosaur Museum introduces visitors to the rich fossil legacy of Uhang-ri in Haenam-gun. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. uhangridinopia.haenam.go.kr 061-532-7225
Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball KIA Tigers at Gwangju Stadium 2nd vs Samgsung Lions 6:30 pm 3rd vs SK Wyverns 5:00 pm 6th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm K-League Football 9th Jeonbuk vs Incheon Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 7 pm 11th Chunnam vs Gyeongnam Gwangyang Stadium, 7 pm 18th Chunnam vs Jeju Gwangyang Stadium, 7 pm 25th Gwangju vs Busan Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm
Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 0 61-270-8480 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8480
Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000
Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5
Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave. 062-232-2626
Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays. 019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073 018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon. 010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, firstname.lastname@example.org 061-724-2234
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JEJU CALENDAR Performances Ongoing
a singer. Jeju Art Center. ticket.interpark.com 064-753-2209
Family & Community September 3th - 7th Yongyeon Yabeom Reenactment Festival This festival is a good chance to experience Korean traditional summer boating, a major leisure activity during the late Joseon dynasty. Jeju Yongyeon Gurum Dari (Bridge). culture.jeju.go.kr 064-728-2714
Sport & Fitness Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall in Cheju Halla College. Tue - Fri 8 pm; Sat 4, 8 pm; Sun, holidays 8 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550
K-League Football 10th Jeju vs Ulsan 3 pm 24th Jeju vs Jeonbuk 3 pm Both at Jeju Sports Complex Stadium
JEJU ISLAND Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1
DIS C OV ER Y
Jeju’s New Groove The relocation of Jane’s Groove from Hongdae to Jeju brings a much-needed dose of nightlife to the island. If you’re looking for a place to dance the night away, look no further than Jane’s Groove in Sicheong (시청, City Hall). The bar opened last February and filled a much-needed niche in the Jeju nightlife scene. Located in Jeju’s City Hall district of clubs and bars, it is one of only a few spots that draws a regular expat crowd, although on many nights it is populated by a lot of Koreans as well. Previously, Jane’s Groove had been open for 13 years in Seoul’s party district of Hongdae, but owner Kang Min-ji (known as “Minky”) relocated to Jeju this year for a change of pace from the fast-paced, competitive world of the big city. Jane’s has a little bit of everything: room to dance, tables and chairs to sit with friends, and even a Nintendo Wii for those who want to do neither. If you feel like letting out your inner exhibitionist, you can hit one of the two stripper poles that punctuate the dance floor. One thing that the bar does not have is live music, but local DJs keep the music going all night long with a mix of nostalgic 70s, 80s, and 90s music along with hip-hop and club tracks. Drink options include the Death Punch, a sweet but lethal concoction that contains five different liquors and three kinds of juice. The bar also serves pitchers of Long Island iced tea for W25,000, jello shots for W1,000, various draft beers, mixed drinks, and shots as well as appetizers like nachos, chicken wings, and mozzarella sticks. G e t t i n g Th e r e
Once you reach the City Hall area, go down the street directly across from Tom N Tom’s Coffee on the main road, walk for one block, and turn right at the GS Mart. Jane’s Groove will be on your left-hand side upstairs. Look for the big yellow sign. Open Mon – Sat from 8 pm onward. 1767-4 Ido2-dong, Jeju City. 010-3541-5375 Wor ds and shot by Sere n i ty B olt
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Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555 Ryu “Artcal” Get ready for a creative performance that brings together Korean dance and traditional martial arts for a hybrid of art and musical called an “artcal.” Convention Hall at Jeju Tourism College in North Jeju. 2 & 5 pm. 60 min. W20,000 - W30,000. ticket.interpark.com 064-759-1214 Through September 4th The Story of the Beatles Enjoy a performance of “The Story of the Beatles” by Las Vegas original tribute band Fab Forever. Convention Hall at Jeju Tourism College. ticket.interpark.com 064-747-7100 September 3rd
Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward is the taste of success in ringing the bell! San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jejusi, Jeju-do. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266
Medical Services Dr. Chung’s Pediatric Clinic email@example.com 064-748-1546 Hanna Women’s Clinic hannaobgy.com 064-711-7717 E-Pyeonhan Dental Clinic e-pretty.co.kr 064-758-2800
Rain Concert: The Best Show To celebrate the 10th anniversary of his debut, singer and movie star Rain will be going on a concert tour around the Korean peninsula. Experience Rainism for yourself at the Jeju International Convention Center. ticket.interpark.com firstname.lastname@example.org September 25th Jo Young Nam Concert Jo Young Nam, famous for being a member of the C’est Si Bon TV show, is holding a concert to show the audience what he experienced during his 45 years of life as
Bars/Lounges/Pubs Boris Brewery The brewer at the successful Modern Time Brewpub is opening up another shop with beer and Spanish sangria based on a 30-year-old recipe. 064-726-4141 Bull’s Darts Bar As the name suggests, they’ve got five dart boards, a variety of games, and even a women’s dart league. Near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-759-5559 Modern Time With locations at Grand Hotel Sageori and City Hall, this microbrewery provides beer lovers with some of the best homemade ales in Korea. 064-748-4180
NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by J i su n M o o n and dav i d carruth
All photos were taken by Dylan Goldby at the launch party for the Korean office of GroupM. The event took place on the evening of August 10th at Fradia in Gangnam. Wednesday, August 31st KGCCI Half-Year Economic Outlook After the economic outlook and other presentations delivered in English, there will be a delightful buffet. Ritz Carlton Seoul. W30,000. 5 pm. korea.ahk.de Friday, September 2nd FKCCI Daegu IAAF World Championships Cocktail Party Enjoy a cocktail party and meet French athletes before attending the final competitions at the stadium. Grand Hotel Daegu. 5 - 6:45 pm. fkcci.com
German Club Seoul Black & White Late Summer Night Party Grand Hyatt Hotel, Waterfall Area. 6 pm. Members W95,000, non-members W110,000. RSVP by August 30th to Martina Heidrich at festausschuss@ deutscherclubseoul.de. deutscherclubseoul.de Saturday, September 3rd AMCHAM Labor Day Picnic Misari Motorboat Racing Park, Mini Soccer Field in Hanam-si, southeast of Seoul. 11 am - 3 pm. Up to 18 yrs W35,000, Adults W50,000. amchamkorea.org
FKCCI Daegu IAAF World Championships Cocktail Party TBA. For questions contact Ms. Hana Cha at email@example.com. 02-3780-4662. Thursday, September 15th The Economist Bellwether Series 2011 with AUSTCHAM Grand Hyatt. All day event. RSVP to Sally Au at firstname.lastname@example.org. Friday, September 16th AWC Monthly Meeting Members and nonmembers alike are welcome to join the group for a lunch buffet. 11 am - 1:30 pm. Seoul Club. awckorea-seoul.org Tuesday, September 20th ANZA Monthly Global Cafe Held every 3rd Tuesday at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Seoul. 10 am. Members W10,000, non-members W15,000. RSVP at anzakorea.com. Wednesday, September 21st SIWA Coffee Morning Coffee morning at the Grand Ambassador Hotel. 9:30 am - 11:30 am. Members W14,000, non-members W19,000. siwapage.com
Friday, September 23rd – Saturday, September 24th Oktoberfest This two-night traditional German festival offers revelers loads of food, German music from the Paulaner Oktoberfest Band, as well as tons of suds. Grand Hilton Seoul Conventional Hall. W120,000. oktoberfest@ mail.grandhiltonseoul.com 02-2287-7456 Wednesday, September 28th BIWA Monthly Coffee Morning Held the 4th Wednesday of every month. Starbucks, Pale d’ CZ building in Busan. 10 am. biwa-korea.com SIWA Working Women Network Every last Wednesday of the month. Venue changes every month. Contact michellefarnsworth@ live.com for more details. ANZA
Australian & New Zealand Association of South Korea AMCHAM American Chamber of Commerce and Industry AUSTCHAM Australian Chamber of Commerce in Korea AWC American Women’s Club BASS British Association of Seoul BIWA Busan Int’l Women’s Association FKCCI French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea KGCCI Korean-German Chamber of Commerce and Industry SIWA Seoul Int’l Women’s Association
To list your event, contact David Carruth at email@example.com or 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine September 2011 | 71
BASS Mahjong Held every Friday from 10 am to 12:30 pm. This is your chance to play the Western version of this Chinese tile game. Refreshments provided. Seoul Club, Cheeseman Room. W10,000. For further information contact: firstname.lastname@example.org. britishseoul.com.
Thursday, September 8th FKCCI Café du Commerce Network in an informal French atmosphere and enjoy a French-style buffet along with a selection of French wines. Novotel Ambassador Gangnam, Seoul. 6:30 - 8:45 pm. W24,000. Visit the website for more details. fkcci.com
Wor ds by A da m Boot h e , I llust r ation by Leroy K uci a
n nature, there are little warnings to protect us from dangerous situations. Poisonous plants have bright, easily noticed colors. Venomous snakes and other creatures have similar markings. Through these warnings we know what to avoid. If you see a black and yellow flower, don’t eat it. If you see a bright, diamond-backed snake, walk away. Nature makes it easy for even the dumbest to survive. When it comes to meeting people, we pick up on similar warnings. It might be something obvious, like how a person constantly complains or makes bigoted comments. However, our brains are more perceptive than we might realize. We have the ability to get a feel for a person within minutes of meeting them. After a little conversation, we can get a pretty good judgment of a person, a sort of vibe. It might not be foolproof, but I would bet on my builtin scumbag detector any day. However, this detector does not work so well across cultures. That is, Koreans have not developed a keen sense of which foreigners are worthwhile and sincere and which ones are lowlifes, morons, or liars. Koreans need to develop a good 외dar. Having a good 외dar means picking up on the little clues that reveal a person’s character. Like “terminator vision,” this device helps a person analyze a target quickly, make an assessment, and move on. A good 외dar can save a person a lot of time and maybe a little heartbreak. As a foreigner, I always took my 외dar for granted. I just always assumed that everyone had the same ability. If there is one dude in a room who should be avoided, everyone else will realize
it without us having to confer. That person stands out like a poisonous flower. It was not until I came to Korea that I realized that this device is not common to all humans. Or to be more precise, every culture has its own unique set of criteria, and those criteria are not always effective when dealing with people outside of the standard set. I see it all the time in Korea. Friends happily introduce me to other foreigners at parties or at work. When my 외dar starts beeping, I feel as helpless as someone shouting where the killer is hiding in a horror movie. I want to tell my friends, “Hey, that guy is a hack” or “Don’t you see that she is condescending?” But alas, I can’t. Ironically, these kinds of comments would make me look anti-social, rude, and exactly the kind of person to be avoided. Time will solve this problem. Just like anything else, a 외dar can be learned with experience. Like touching a hot pan or getting bitten by a snake, if a person has enough negative experiences, they will learn. Hopefully Koreans don’t over-correct and adopt a blanket anti-foreigner response. Noticing the warning signs of awful people would go a long way toward ending discriminatory attitudes. If Koreans learn how to quickly avoid scumbags, then they would have more positive experiences with foreigners. Of course it works both ways. I haven’t totally built up my Korean radar. I kind of just assume that everyone has my best interests at heart and is always trying to do the right thing. Sure, it’s naïve, and I recognize that, but I don’t have enough room in my head for being that suspicious of Koreans. All that scrutinizing energy is obviously used up on my fellow foreigners.
* If you’re a newcomer in Korea, you may not get the title. “외dar” is a reference to 외국인 (pronounced “way-goog-een”), which is the Korean word for “foreigner.” 72 | 10 Magazine September 2011
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