FOOD & DRINK • REVIEW
ABSOLUTELY eats out…
“The New York Times were correct... A steakhouse to end all arguments”
Smith & Wollensky A high-end eatery with a focus on exquisite steaks and American wines B y S TA N L E Y DAV I E S
H
aving recently enjoyed Smith & Wollensky in Miami, I was looking forward to seeing how the London branch compared. It’s a 300-cover restaurant which opened three years ago in the Adelphi building, a stone’s throw from the Strand. Spacious, set over two floors with additional private dining facilities, the impressive kitchen features a full butchery and an onsite dry-aging
room. We begin with cocktails, opting for the ‘Last Word’ - Sipsmith Gin, Chartreuse, lime juice, Maraschino and egg white – and settle into the evening. Their extensive wine list is mostly American, we order the Smith & Wollensky Private Reserve from the Napa Valley, a blended full-bodied red, perfect for steak. While the culinary focus is clearly on steak, the menu covers all bases: there are strong fish dishes, and succulent lobster tails come as a side. Split-pea soup is for starters. Its peppery undertones give way to a
FOOD Steak, lobster and all the sides
DECOR Leather chairs and brass railings
PRICE USDA steaks start at £58
VERDICT Steak house meets New York pastiche
smoky bacon flavour but it manages not to forego freshness. We choose our mains with some difficulty; it’s a tempting array of juicy cuts. I land on the signature bone-in Ribeye which is a dry-aged USDA Prime steak. For sides we go for the panfried mushrooms, glazed carrots and Cajun French-fries. All are delicious. We don’t eat steak because it’s cheap, healthy or exotic; it’s chosen for the way it makes you feel. This experience is no exception. With buttery juices flowing out of meat only slightly tougher than pâté, it truly fulfils some gustatory dreams. The famous chocolate cake is only available for tasting but a spoonful of the dark chocolate ganache is enough – it stays with you. So, how does this experience compare to Smith & Wollensky Miami? The same supreme quality food, delivered in a very different environment owing to the interior design which is in keeping with the iconic listed building. The New York Times were correct when they wrote of Smith & Wollensky, simply “a steakhouse to end all arguments”. S M I T H & WO L L E N S K Y 1-11 John Adam Street, WC2N 6HT smithandwollensky.co.uk
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22/11/2018 11:43