BelGuest, Belgrade and Serbia Visitors' Magazine Autumn 2013 by miroslav zeljug

9 771451 644006

Belgrade and Serbia Visitors’ Magazine

Volume 14, AUTUMN 2013

free copy

HANGING OUT WITH MOMO KAPOR INTERVIEW WALT BOGDANICH & BORIS MALAGURSKI BELGRADE TOP ATTRACTIONS & SIGHTSEEING AN ODE TO THE SERBIAN SOLDIER TOS RECOMMENDS GOLIJSKI KONACI

JESEN/ZIMA U BEOGRADU AUTUMN/WINTER IN BELGRADE RAZGLEDANJA/SIGHTSEEING

DOGAĐAJI\ EVENTS

Tura Podzemni Beograd/ Belgrade Underground Tour

21. Svetsko prvenstvo u rukometu za žene / XXI women`s handball world champioship 6-22. 12. 2013; Beograd, Niš, Zrenjanin, Novi Sad www.serbia2013.com

Programi na srpskom jeziku: sreda 17:30, subota 14:30, nedelja 11h Mesto polaska: Gračanička 11 Tours in English language: Tuesday 10h; Thursday 17:30h; Saturday 12h; Sunday 14h Meeting point: Gračanička Street 11

Na kafi kod kneginje Ljubice/ A Coffee at Princess Ljubica’s

VII RAKIJA FEST 14. i 15. 12. 2013; Mikser House www.rakiabar.com 15. Guitar Art Festival 11-16.03. 2014; Dom omladine i Sava Centar www. gaf.rs

Termin: petak 17h, subota u 10h Mesto: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Kneza Sime Markovića 8 Time: Friday 17h, Saturday at 10h Place: Residence of Princess Ljubica, Kneza Sime Markovića 8

Savamala creative district Subota u 12h Karte u turističkom info centru u Knez Mihailovoj 5, Mikser House-u u Krađorđevoj 46 i poslovnicama Glob Metropoliten Tours-a u Makenzijevoj 26 i Andre Nikolića 7 Saturday at 12h Tickets at the Tourist Info Centre in Knez Mihailova 5, Mikser House in Karadjordjeva 46 and offices of Glob Metropoliten Tours i Makenzijeva 26, and Andre Nikolića 7

TURISTIČKI INFO CENTAR/ TOURIST INFO CENTRE Knez Mihailova 5 pon - sub 09-21č, ned 10-15č/ Mon-Sat. 09.00-21.00, Sun. 10.00-15.00h tel. 011 2635-622, 2635-343 bginfo.knezmihailova@tob.co.rs

www.travel-belgrade.com

BEOGRAD PRIČA/ BELGRADE TALKING aplikacija za mobilne telefone/ mobile application

IN THIS ISSUE/IZ SADRŽAJA

B O H E M I A N B E LG R A D E WA L K HANGING OUT WITH KAPOR GLUVARENJE SA KAPOROM

I N T E R V I E W - WA LT E R WA LT B O G D A N I C H FIRST DRAFT OF HISTORY PRVA VERZIJA ISTORIJE

T O P 1 5 AT T R A C T I O N S O F B E LG R A D E AN ENTICING METROPOLIS ZAVODLJIVI METROPOLIS

INTERVIEW – BORIS MALAGURSKI BELGRADE, QUITE PERSONALLY BEOGRAD, SASVIM LIČNO

C E N T E N A R Y O F T H E F I R S T W O R L D WA R AN ODE TO THE SERBIAN SOLDIER ODA SRPSKOM VOJNIKU

B E LG R A D E – T H E C I T Y O F T O U R I S M 60 YEARS OF DEDICATION ŠEZDESET GODINA POSVEĆENOSTI

44 A CLOSER LOOK – BELGRADE SIGHTSEEING POGLED IZBLIZA - RAZGLEDANJA BEOGRADA

52 T O S R E C O M M E N D S - G O L I J S K I K O N A C I DWELLING PLACE FOR BODY, REST FOR THE SOUL KONAČIŠTE ZA TELO, ODMOR ZA DUŠU

PHENOMENON OF VRMDŽA VILLAGE THE POWER OF ATTRACTION OF RTANJ PRIVLAČNA SILA RTNJA

BELGRADE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BEOGRADSKE MEĐUNARODNE ŠKOLE

BELGRADE INFO

Belgrade&Serbia Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Gočka 18 tel./fax 2332-803; mob tel. 063/84 97 582 e-mail: office@belguest.rs, redakcija@belguest.rs www.belguest.rs Copublisher - Suizdavač: Turistička organizacija Beograda, Masarikova 5/IX tel. 3061-410 fax 3061-414 e-mail: office@tob.co.rs www.tob.co.rs Publisher - Izdavač: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor Copublisher - Suizdavač: Dejan Veselinov, direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Dragana Marković Editorial Staff - Redakcija: Milena Mihaljčić, Dragana Marković, Jadranka Đorđević Contributors - Saradnici: Dragana Barjaktarević, Vesna Aleksić, Rozana Sazdić Photographs- Fotografije: Đorđe Rusić, Darimir Banda, Branko Jovanović, Svetlana Dingarac, BelGuest Photo Archive, TOB Photo Archive Translation - Prevod: Đorđe Janković, Mark R. Pullen Serbian language editor - Lektor za srpski: Mila Barjaktarević Information - Informacije: Pont i Turistička organizacija Beograda Marketing: PONT Design - Dizajn: Miroslav Zeljug Layout - Prelom: Pozitiv MVP Print - Štampa: Birograf, Beograd BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont & Belgrade Tourist Organization Front Page - Naslovna strana: Momo Kapor, Pastel “Belgrade Woman”, detail CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd 338.4 BelGuest : Belgrade visitors’ magazine / editor-in-chief Dragana Marković. - 2001, winter/spring - Beograd : Pont, 2001(Beograd : Birograf). - 28 cm Dostupno i na: http://www.belguest.rs. Tromesečno. - Sa specijalnim izdanjem 2010: Događaji Beograda ISSN 1451-6446 = Bel Guest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

Dear guests of Serbia and Belgrade, welcome! We prepared the new issue of our unique promotional magazine with a wish to motivate you to visit the most important sites in Serbia related to the heritage associated with this year’s topics. Our capital, which year-in-year-out attracts an increasing number of tourists, should be explored from a special, unique viewpoint. One such extraordinary story is a tour of the city following the footsteps of our great writer, artist and bohemian Momo Kapor, who knew in detail the spirit of the city and for whom Belgrade was a great source of inspiration. Always proud of our creative people, we present you a three-time Pulitzer winning American journalist of Serbian descent, Walt Bogdanich, and also a young film director, Boris Malagurski, who recently had a successful premiere of his film about Belgrade. Belgrade, the capital with a special atmosphere and energy, in the spirit of young people who live in it, is inspiration for the annual campaign of the National Tourism Organisation “Lifestyle Serbia”. The campaign is designed to present Serbia as a unique, authentic and very appealing destination. As part of it, we try to show the Serbian creativity, innovation, entertainment, gastronomy, active vacationing... Addressing those young in age, but also to those young at heart, we will make use of the social networking websites to show the world the life style in Serbia. Next year will mark the 100th anniversary of the beginning of the First World War. The Tourist Organisation of Serbia on that occasion released a publication titled “Serbia Remembers”. This issue also brings a photo story about the heroes and heroines of the Great War, which Serbia ended victorious, having suffered great sacrifices. Wanting to stimulate you to explore Serbia, we have presented you Golija Quarters, the winner of our annual “Tourist flower” award in the category of rural tourism. This will, hopefully, be an incentive for you to search for other destinations in a rich and original offer of Serbian rural, ethno and eco-tourism. We advise you to visit the checkpoints of information centres of Belgrade and Serbia, where you’ll be able to get information on interesting tours and destinations and also to buy some nice souvenirs. Gordana Plamenac, director of the Tourist Organisation of Serbia

Dragi gosti Srbije i Beograda, dobrodošli! Novi broj našeg jedinstvenog promotivnog magazina pripremili smo sa željom da vas podstaknemo na posetu najznačajnijih znamenitosti naše zemlje povezane sa nasleđem, što su naše ovogodišnje teme. Naš glavni grad, koji iz godine u godinu privlači sve veći broj turista, treba istraživati iz nekog posebnog, jedinstvenog ugla. Jedna takva nesvakidašnja priča je obilazak grada tragom našeg velikog pisca, slikara i boema Mome Kapora, koji je u tančine poznavao duh grada i kome je Beograd bio nepresušna inspiracija. Uvek ponosni na svoje kreativne ljude, predstavljamo vam dobitnika Pulicerove nagrade za novinarstvo Volta Bogdaniča, američkog novinara srpskog porekla, i mladog filmskog reditelja Borisa Malagurskog, koji je nedavno imao uspešnu premijeru filma o Beogradu. Beograd, prestonica posebne atmosfere i energije, naročito mladih ljudi koji u njemu žive, inspiracija je godišnje kampanje Nacionalne turističke organizacije „Lifestyle Serbia“. Kampanja je osmišljena sa ciljem predstavljanja Srbije kao nesvakidašnje, autentične i nadasve prijemčive destinacije. U njoj prikazujemo srpsku kreativnost, inovativnost, zabavu, gastronomiju, aktivan odmor... Obraćajući se mladima po godinama, ali i mladima duhom, koristićemo popularne društvene mreže kako bi smo celom svetu pokazali šta je stil života u Srbiji. Naredne godine obeležava se jedan vek od početka Prvog svetskog rata. Turistička organizacija Srbije je tim povodom objavila publikaciju „Srbija pamti“. U ovom broju predstavljamo vam i jednu foto-priču o herojima i heroinama Velikog rata iz kojeg je Srbija, uz ogromne žrtve, izašla kao pobednik. U želji da vas uputimo na istraživanje Srbije, predstavili smo vam Golijske konake – dobitnike naše godišnje nagrade „Turistički cvet“ u kategoriji seoskog turizma. To će vam, nadamo se, biti podsticaj da potražite i druge destinacije u bogatoj i originalnoj ponudi seoskog, etno i eko turizma. Predlažemo da posetite i informativne centre Beograda i Srbije, gde ćete, pored obaveštenja o zanimljivim turama i destinacijama, biti u prilici da kupite i neki lep suvenir. Gordana Plamenac, direktor Turističke organizacije Srbije

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

n e w sig h ts e e ing tour - B e lgrad e wit h usag e instructions

H AN G IN G OUT W IT H KA P OR “Belgrade is in the idea that impregnates the world wherever its spirit is conveyed. It is in a joke, in a random gesture, in the inherent casualness with which it receives victories and defeats, there, where a unit for the measurement of style is charm”. Momo Kapor

omo Kapor (1937-2010) was a painter and writer who most truthfully, most vividly and most charmingly described Belgrade. For such a judgement he possessed several necessary advantages - an innate talent for painting and writing, but also for the living. The trace that his life imprinted on the face of Belgrade can be experienced through a sightseeing tour that has been designed and implemented by the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade and the Momčilo Momo Kapor Foundation. The beginning and end of this specific cultural, spiritual, artistic and hedonistic experience of Belgrade, symbolically, like the life of Momo Kapor, touches one point of the city – Vračar. Moma was nine years old when he came from Sarajevo to live in Belgrade at 27 Hadži Melentijeva Street, while he spent the last fifteen years of his life in Nebojšina Street, in the vicinity of Karađorđev Park and the Temple of Saint Sava. This particular circular motion which gravitates towards the centre describing the life of this artist and writer contains the most interesting places in the city - it is worth the effort to spemd time in this area first, to first experience the feeling and then describe it. Momo’s description of the Bohemian Quarter of Skadarlija Street, the Writers’ Club, Knez Mihailova Street, the Academy of Fine Art, Kalenić Market, city inns, the famous “Bermuda triangle” etc., these are the backbone of the mentioned tour, as well as the text that follows. KNEZ MIHAILOVA STREET I have always loved Knez Mihailova Street. Even as a student of the Fine Art Academy I spent hours and days at “Kolarac” and in the evening, when Knez Mihailova becomes a “strip” for lovers and those who only intend to be lovers, I was a mandatory participant in those endless strolls, from the beginning to the end of the street. However, I must admit that I love this current Knez Mihailova Street the most. I’m proud that Belgrade has one such avenue that Paris or London or Rome or New York doesn’t have... I stand at zero kilometre, on Madrid’s “Puerta del Sol” square and, of course, I’m thinking of Belgrade (and, what else would I be thinking of?), wondering where that imaginary point would lie if it was somehow embedded in the asphalt of Belgrade? For me, this is that piece of pavement at the beginning of

Knez Mihailova Street in front of the Ruski Tsar inn, where I stopped for many years of my life, holding my back against a tree so as not to fall on strollers. That mark in Belgrade would be a very useful thing. Scattered throughout the world, according to it we could measure how far we have strayed from our essence. Man, in fact, must have at least one important point in his life in order not to stray and get lost among other people, other nations ... The mark near the Ruski Tsar Inn is that blessed measure for us. After wandering all over the world, it seems to me that I finally figured out something important. The point is more than simple: who lives closer to that imaginary point – is happier than other Belgraders, no matter where they live, no matter how successful and rich they are. KRALJA PETRA STREET Whenever someone accuses Belgrade of alleged hostility towards other nations, religions and languages, I would like to grab them by the hand and take them to what at first glance seems to be a quite ordinary street, where they will learn a lot about tolerance. That’s the street named 7th July, which was known as Kralja Petra I Street until the end of World War II and is once again called that today. Kralja Petra Street, in a certain way, brings together the two rivers: from its beginning there is a view over the domestic River Sava – and at the other end one feels a breath of the international European Danube. Two rivers and one street misleading draped over the ridge of the city, like a tense arc between two civilisations... Firstly it has our Cathedral Church, which was built by Prince Miloš in 1845 and developed by the Pančevo masters in the Baroque style, for 31,000 silver florins. The Patriarchy of the Serbian Orthodox Church and the Theological Faculty encircle the portrait of this Serbian Zagorsk - the centre of Orthodoxy in our country. Heading further down, you will come across the old Bajrakli-mosque, whose walls rest up against Kralja Petra Street. This Islamic place of worship, with its harmonious arches, gives the opportunity for all Belgraders of the Mohammedan faith to perform their prayers.

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

Some hundred paces further is the Jewish community, with cultural-artistic clubs and halls for lectures and gatherings - where we can see the carefree nurturing of the long Judaism tradition of Dorćol Jews, who gifted Belgrade a particularly valuable, precious and voluptuous sound in poetry and painting. Opposite is the hotel “Royal”, until recently “Toplice”, which has mostly been inhabited by our brother Russians and travellers from Eastern European countries. The luxurious “Benetton” boutique is located in the immediate neighbourhood of the oriental pastry shop, which is run by a hardworking Gorani, while the “Košava” Italian pizzeria is five steps below the exclusive pre-war Aero - Club and galleries displaying paintings of Petar Dobrović. Is there a weirder and more tolerant street in the world?! In the end it flows into Dorćol (in Turkish Dort-Jol, meaning an intersection of four roads or four lanes) the extinct Jewish quarter, where Serbs, Macedonians, Aromanians, Greeks, Armenians, Bulgarian gardeners and Romanians lived in friendship – a proper little Belgrade Babylon. As a result of all of that, for me the modest Kralja Petra Street is a lesson in tolerance and friendship, which is often impossible to overcome in many richer main streets of enlightened Europe. MAKEDONSKA STREET

Ada, oil on canvas The inns Grmeč – Zora – Šumatovac – the Bermuda triangle, where most commonly Belgrade journalists, artists and writers disappeared “for some time”. Best illustrating how much Serbs like this type of inn is the story of one Belgrader, who spent years meeting at the same table in the old inn “Zora“ with his friend and every time praised the veal heart and kidney goulash which his wife cooked as the world’s best goulash. Finally, they agree to bring this unsurpassed dish to the inn one Saturday; they taste it, but something, as a general impression, is lacking in the flavour of the goulash. Nobody could say what it was, until someone remembered and yelled “Pull it through the hatch” and only when the pot of stew had been sent through the opening from the kitchen where waiters collect orders did it really get that right flavour – the inn taste. WRITERS’ CLUB In the West writers live in solitude, each in his own world. Generally they don’t even know each other personally. Unlike them, beside the bar of the Writers’ Club in Belgrade it is possible to see the highest concentration of writers on a square metre in Europe. In the middle room, next to the bar, enter skinny starving and confused young poets from the province for the first time, but after two or three decades of the best lit left hall for dining they depart as tired, aggravated laureates - writers from children’s notebooks. Beauties and future movie stars began their careers right here in the company of drunken poets and filmmakers. How much time would be required just to describe the meeting of worlds and generations, which only here, in this Belgrade underground passages and nowhere else, could come face-to-face,

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

how much time to figure out the secret that compelled diplomats and politicians to leave their comfortable, closed clubs to be exposed to smoke, noise and drunken reciting poets whose eyes turned dark! I will never believe that they did that only because “the food here is really good!” However, the famous Michelin gastronomic guide was never as mistaken as it was in the case of the Belgrade Writers’ Club, which for many is absolutely the best restaurant in the world and which, by some injustice, is not in this holy book intended for worldly gourmets. When my friends from the outside world mention the Belgrade Writer’s Club I always notice that their voice shimmers in gastronomic sadness riddled by a night longing for a place where you can chat and argue until the morning. Indeed, the food at this club is extremely good, probably the best in the country. This is actually the only menu I know by heart like a love song, not meant for the heart but for the stomach, from the first cold appetizers to the signature of Mister Buda. At the same time, it is also the best guide to what is called Serbian cuisine. It is enough for a foreigner to spend one night in the basements of the Writers› Club at 7 Francuska Street to complete a one-night short introductory course to Belgrade and the basic mentality of the Serbian people, through food, drink and conversation. SKADARLIJA If I were to lead you through Skadarlija, first thing in the morning I would drink coffee with you on the terrace of “Two white doves”, then, as an appetizer, I would eat warm corn bread with cold curd at the inn “Šešir moj”, where even at noon a great orchestra of dark-skinned tamburitza musicians from Bačka play, then for gourmet beef stew with sour cream I would drop in to the “Zlatni bokal” restaurant. At “Tri šešira” I would take you for a real Serbian grill with sauerkraut sprinkled with red paprika, then for a slice of dry sweet pie across the street at “Dva Jelena”. On this street there is almost no restaurant that does not have its own band and they are all capable of playing folk dance music as well as they play Viennese waltzes. I would not swear that after having gone through many restaurants, inns, pubs and cafes we will succeed in making it down to the last inn, “Skadarlija”, sober and to spend the night there and await the morning, but I am sure that you will leave Skadarlija in love, if not with the place itself, then certainly with your lovely companion, without whom all this would be worthless. In Skadarlija dinner is not mandatory – love is! KALENIĆ MARKET For those who are not from Belgrade it should be noted that Kalenić market is the largest and richest in the city and that is located in Čubura. Older Belgraders still call it the Kalenić threshing floor. Kalenić market is a kind of embassy of the villages in the capital. There each morning the green accreditation is again given to the pale citizens of Belgrade, who have long since lost their roots and connection with the earth and its fruits. No matter how much I have lived around the world, as someone born in the provinces I simply cannot get used to the illogical volume of supermarkets, where watermelons are sold in the middle of January! For us watermelon is always a sign of a mature summer that is on the wane; it simply doesn’t suit us in February. Living beside Kalenić market and on it, we›ve grown accustomed to the natural rhythm of ripening. If you go to Kalenić market and forget the shopping list your wife wrote for you, don’t worry. Borrow the shopping list of any man you find there. They are all the same. Prepared by: Dragana Marković Photo: Momčilo Momo Kapor Foundation

nova tura razgl e danja B e ograd sa uputstvom za upotr e bu

GLUVARENJE SA KAPOROM „Beograd je u ideji koja oplođava svet gde god da se prenese njegov duh. On je u nekom vicu, u slučajnom gestu, u urođenoj ležernosti sa kojom se primaju pobede i porazi, tamo, gde je jedinica za merenje stila – šarm.“ Momo Kapor

omo Kapor (1937-2010), slikar je i pisac koji je najistinitije, najslikovitije i najšarmantnije opisao Beograd. Za takav sud imao je neophodne prednosti – urođeni talenat za slikanje i pisanje, ali i za življenje. Tragom koji je svojim životom utisnuo u lice Beograda kreće se i tura razgledanja koju su osmislili i realizovali Turistička organizacija Beograda i Zadužbina „Momčilo Momo Kapor“. Početak i kraj ovog specifičnog kulturološkog, duhovnog, umetničkog i hedonističkog doživljaja Beograda simbolično, kao i život Mome Kapora, dodiruju se u jednoj tački – na Vračaru. Momo je sa devet godina došao iz Sarajeva u Beograd, u Ulicu Hadži Melentijevu 27, a poslednjih petnaest godina živeo u Nebojšinoj, u neposrednoj blizini Karađorđevog parka i Hrama Svetog Save. U tom posebnom kružnom kretanju, koje u težišnim tačkama opisuje život slikara i pisca, sadržani su najzanimljivija gradska mesta, ona vredna truda da se u njima najpre boravi, da se taj osećaj doživi, a potom i opiše. Momin opis Skadarlije, Kluba književnika, Knez Mihailove ulice, Likovne akademije, Kalenića pijace, gradskih kafana, čuvenog „Bermudskog trougla“... okosnica je pomenute ture, a takođe teksta koji sledi.

KNEZ MIHAILOVA ULICA Knez Mihailovu ulicu sam oduvek voleo. Još kao student Likovne akademije provodio sam sate i dane u „Kolarcu“, a uveče, kada je Knez Mihailova postajala „štrafta“ za zaljubljene, i one koji to tek nameravaju da budu, bio sam obavezni učesnik tih beskonačnih šetnji, od početka do kraja ulice. Ipak, moram da priznam da ovu sadašnju Knez Mihailovu ulicu najviše volim. Ponosim se što Beograd ima jednu takvu ulicu, koju nemaju ni Pariz, ni London, ni Rim, ni Njujork... Stojim na nultom kilometru, na madridskom trgu „Puerta del Sol“ i, naravno, mislim na Beograd (a i na šta bih drugo?), pitajući se, gde bi se nalazila ta zamišljena tačka da je nekim čudom utisnuta u beogradski asfalt. Za mene to je onaj komad trotoara na početku Knez Mihailove ulice ispred „Ruskog cara“, gde sam prestajao mnoge godine svoga života, pridržavajući leđima jedno drvo da ne padne na šetače. Taj beleg u Beogradu bio bi vrlo korisna stvar. Rasejani po svetu, po njemu bismo mogli da merimo koliko smo daleko odlutali od svoje suštine. Čovek, naime, mora da ima bar jednu važnu tačku u životu da ne zaluta i da se ne

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

izgubi među drugim ljudima, drugim narodima... Beleg kod „Ruskog cara“ je ta blagoslovena mera za nas. Posle svih lutanja po svetu, čini mi se da sam najzad nešto važno shvatio. Stvar je više nego jednostavna: ko živi bliže toj zamišljenoj tački – srećniji je od drugih Beograđana, ma gde živeli, ma koliko bili uspešni i bogati. ULICA KRALJA PETRA Kada god neko optuži Beograd za navodnu netrpeljivost prema drugim narodima, verama i jezicima, dođe mi da ga uhvatim za ruku i povedem do jedne na prvi pogled sasvim obične ulice, u kojoj će mnogo naučiti o toleranciji. To je ulica 7. jula, koja se sve do posle rata zvala Kralja Petra Prvog, kako se i danas ponovo zove. Ulica kralja Petra na izvestan način spaja dve reke: sa njenog početka vidi se pitoma, domaća Sava – na njenom završetku oseća se evropski dah belosvetskog Dunava. Dve reke i jedna ulica inadžijski prebačena preko hrbata grada, kao napeti luk između dve civilizacije... Najpre, tu nam je Saborna crkva, koju je 1845. podigao knez Miloš, a izveli je pančevački

Košava, oil on canvas posebno dragocen, plemenit i čulan zvuk u poeziji i slikarstvu. Preko puta je hotel„Rojal“, donedavno„Toplice“, u kome su, uglavnom, odsedala naša braća Rusi i putnici iz istočnoevropskih zemalja. Luksuzni „Benetonov“ butik nalazi se u neposrednom susedstvu orijentalne poslastičarnice, koju vodi vredni Goranac, dok se italijanska picerija „Košava“ nalazi pet koraka ispod predratnog, ekskluzivnog Aero-kluba i galerije slika Petra Dobrovića. Ima li čudnije i tolerantnije ulice na svetu! Ona se, na kraju, uliva u Dorćol (na turskom Dort-jol znači raskrsnica četiri puta ili četiri sokaka), iščezli jevrejski kvart, u kome su živeli u prijateljstvu Srbi, Makedonci, Cincari, Grci, Jermeni, Bugari baštovani, Rumuni – pravi mali beogradski Vavilon. Zbog svega toga skromna ulica kralja Petra za mene je lekcija iz trpeljivosti i prijateljstva, koju je često nemoguće savladati u mnogim bogatijim, glavnim ulicama prosvećene Evrope. MAKEDONSKA ULICA Kafane Grmeč–Zora–Šumatovac – Bermudski trougao u kojem su najčešće i na „neko vreme“ nestajali beogradski novinari, umetnici i pisci. Koliko Srbi vole taj tip kafane, najbolje svedoči priča o jednom Beograđaninu koji se godinama sastajao za istim stolom u staroj kafani „Zora“ sa svojim prijateljem, hvaleći svaki put gulaš od telećih srca i bubrega koji kuva njegova žena kao najbolji gulaš na svetu. Najzad, dogovore se da donesu to neprevaziđeno jelo jedne subote u kafanu; probaju ga, ali je nešto, po opštem utisku, nedostajalo ukusu gulaša. Šta, to niko nije znao da kaže sve dok se jedan ne doseti i viknu: „Provucite ga kroz šuber!“ I tek kada šerpu sa gulašem provukoše kroz onaj otvor iz kuhinje na kome kelneri podižu porudžbine, on zaista dobi onaj pravi ukus – kafanski.

Belgrade Woman, graphic majstori u baroknom stilu za 31.000 srebrnih forinti. Patrijaršija i Teološki fakultet zaokružuju portret ovog srpskog Zagorska – centra pravoslavlja u našim krajevima. Spuštajući se niže, nailazite na staru Bajrakli džamiju, čiji se zidovi oslanjaju na ulicu kralja Petra. Ova islamska bogomolja, skladnih lukova, pruža mogućnost svim Beograđanima muhamedanske vere da obavljaju svoje molitve. Na stotinak koraka dalje nalazi se Jevrejska opština, sa kulturno-umetničkim društvima i dvoranama za predavanja i okupljanja – gde se brižno neguje i čuva duga hebrejska tradicija dorćolskih Jevreja, koji su Beogradu poklonili

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

KLUB KNjIŽEVNIKA Na Zapadu pisci žive usamljenički, svako u svom svetu. Uglavnom se i ne poznaju lično. Za razliku od njih, pokraj šanka Kluba književnika u Beogradu moguće je videti najveću koncentraciju pisaca na kvadratnom metru u Evropi. U srednju prostoriju, pokraj šanka, ulaze prvi put izgladneli, mršavi i zbunjeni mladi pesnici iz provincije da bi posle dve-tri decenije iz najbolje osvetljene leve dvorane za večeravanje izašli kao umorni, otežali laureati – pisci iz čitanke. Lepotice i buduće filmske zvezde započinjale su baš ovde svoje karijere u društvu pripitih pesnika i režisera. Koliko bi mi samo bilo potrebno vremena da opišem taj susret svetova i generacija, koji se samo ovde, u ovom beogradskom lagumu, i nigde više, mogu naći licem u lice, koliko vremena da odgonetnem tajnu zbog koje diplomate i političari napuštaju svoje udobne, zatvorene klubove da bi se izložili dimu, buci i pijanom recitovanju pesnika kojima je pao mrak na oči! Nikada neću poverovati da to čine samo zato što se „ovde zaista, dobro jede!“ Ipak, čuveni gastronomski vodič „Mišlen“ nikada nije tako pogrešio kao u slučaju beogradskog Kluba književnika, koji je apsolutno, za mnoge, najbolji

restoran na svetu, a koji se nekom nepravdom ne nalazi u toj svetoj knjizi, namenjenoj belosvetskim gurmanima. Kada moji prijatelji iz sveta pomenu beogradski Klub književnika, uvek primećujem da im u glasu zatreperi neka gastronomska seta protkana noćobdijskom čežnjom za mestima na kojima se može čavrljati i svađati sve do jutra. Zaista, u Klubu se izvanredno dobro jede, verovatno najbolje u zemlji. To je, inače, jedini jelovnik koji poznajem napamet poput kakve ljubavne pesme, namenjene ne srcu već stomaku, od prvog hladnog predjela do potpisa gos’n Bude. U isto vreme to je i najbolji vodič kroz ono što se naziva srpskom kuhinjom. Dovoljno je da stranac provede jedno veče u podrumima Kluba književnika u Francuskoj 7, pa da završi jednonoćni kratki kurs iz poznavanja Beograda i mentaliteta srpskog naroda, kroz jelo, piće i razgovore. SKADARLIJA Kada bih vas ja vodio kroz Skadarliju, najpre bih ujutro popio s vama kafu na terasi „Dva bela goluba“, a zatim bih, kao predjelo, pojeo toplu proju sa hladnim kajmakom u kafani „Šešir moj“, gde čak i u podne svira sjajan orkestar tamnoputih tamburaša iz Bačke, a na gurmansku teleću čorbu sa mileramom svratio u „Zlatni bokal“. U „Tri šešira“ bih vas odveo na pravi srpski roštilj sa kiselim kupusom posutim tucanom paprikom, a na slatku suvu pitu, preko puta, u „Dva jelena“. U ovoj ulici gotovo da ne postoji restoran koji nema svoj orkestar, a svi oni umeju da sviraju i narodna kola isto tako dobro kao i bečke valcere. Ne bih se zakleo da ćemo prošavši kroz mnogobrojne restorane, kafane, krčme i kafiće uspeti trezni da se spustimo do poslednje kafane „Skadarlija“ i da u njoj provedemo noć i dočekamo jutro, ali sam siguran da ćete Skadarliju napustiti zaljubljeni, ako ne u nju, a ono sigurno u vašu lepu saputnicu bez koje sve to i ne vredi. U Skadarliji večera nije obavezna – ljubav jeste! KALENIĆA PIJACA Za one koji nisu iz Beograda treba napomenuti da je Kalenića pijaca najveća i najbogatija u gradu i da se nalazi na Čuburi. Stariji Beograđani zovu je još i Kalenića gumno. Kalenića pijaca je svojevrsna ambasada sela u prestonici. Na njoj se svakog jutra iznova predaju zeleni akreditivi ubledelim Beograđanima, što su već odavno izgubili svoje korenje i vezu sa zemljom i njenim plodovima. Ma koliko živeo po svetu, kao rođeni provincijalac nikako ne mogu da se naviknem na nelogično obilje supermarketa, u kojima usred januara prodaju lubenice! Za nas je lubenica oduvek znak zrelog leta što zamire; jednostavno, ne prija nam u februaru. Živeći uz Kalenića pijacu i na njoj, navikli smo se na prirodni ritam zrenja. Ako krenete na Kalenića pijacu i zaboravite papirić na kome vam je žena napisala šta treba da se kupi, ne brinite. Pozajmite papirić bilo kog muškarca koga zateknete tamo. Svi su oni isti. Priredila Dragana Marković Foto: Zadužbina Momčilo Momo Kapor

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

INTERVIEW WALTER WALT BOGDANIC H, three-time s P ulitz e r winning American journalis of S erbian de sc e nt

FIRST DRAFT OF HISTORY

I believe that good reporting can change the world. I make effort that the truth always be stronger than somebody’s attempt to manipulate it, because a free and objective word can kill a lie. “I’m back in Serbia, and if I knew that it was so fun and great to be here, I would not have waited fifty-five years to get back here,” said Walt Bogdanich at the ceremony of the Karić Brother Award for Journalism. This American journalist of Serbian descent has won three Pulitzer prizes. He received his first Pulitzer as a reporter for the Wall Street Journal in 1988, for a series of articles on substandard medical laboratories in the United States. That research lasted for three years and a half and was very exhausting and dangerous. Based on it he wrote a book “Big White Lie”. The second Pulitzer came in 2005 for Walt’s investigative reporting on the accidents on American railroads, “Death on the Tracks.” When he received his third Pulitzer Prize for investigative reporting on exposure to toxic ingredients in Chinese-made products imported into the United States, he said that he was simply an ordinary fighter for the truth. Those words are recognized as a reporting principle in his writing. For his huge contribution to research reporting, the prestigious Columbia University engaged him to head the Graduate School of Journalism. While explaining what is it that crucially contributed to his success in fighting for the truth, he singled out his Serbian origin. “I am very proud of my Serbian heritage, and that’s very important in my life. When we talk about journalism, I prefer to talk about how my stories helped the victims of corporate greed and irresponsible behaviour of the establishment. I cannot imagine anyone being more proud of their Serbian origin than my father.” He was born in the Serbian colony in Chicago on 10 October in 1950. Walt studied journalism at the University of Wisconsin and was working for the student newspapers and for the Serbian newspapers. He has been working as a professional journalist since 1973. Whether by chance or fate, or different energetic kind of feelings in people, our lives begin to unravel in very different ways. What is that that has defined your life, what has made it the way that it is now? - Early in life, my father taught me basics of democracy and how the United States got to where it is now. He would explain to me why it is a great country, and one of the reasons is because it has a free press. In our home we would always read newspapers. We had several of them come, and we would discuss current events over the dinner table.

Walt Bogdanich with his wife Stephanie Saul, in the company of Milanka Karić & Danica Karić And he impressed upon me then the importance of public citizens knowing what’s going on with their government and in their communities, and that that was the foundation of democracy. And that stuck with me. I have an interest in politics, an interest in history and it was natural for me to move from there into journalism, where I could, in a sense, as we say it in America, write the first draft of history. ‘Cause that’s what journalists do. And that’s how I discovered this profession that I love so much and that I believe has done a great service to the American people. That doesn’t mean that as journalists we don’t make mistakes, that doesn’t mean that the government always listens to us. Our job is just to speak the truth as we are able to define it, the best obtainable version of the truth. You talk of your Serbian heritage as something that’s really defined and informed your character and who you are and your beliefs and energy and emotions, the way your mother and father have influenced you. You weren’t born in Serbia. How did you manage to keep that Serbian gene, let’s call it, and grow up in America? - Serbian culture has always been an important part of my upbringing. Serbian was spoken in my household, it was part of the experience of growing up to be in a church and my parents’ friends were many, if not most, of them Serbian and what I took away from all that was how important it was to their lives to be Serbian and what it stands for. The Serbs that I knew growing up were compassionate, caring, energetic, lively people and they appreciated song, literature, friendship, family and that stuck with me obviously. It was very important to my parents that that be part of me.

I personally would never wish for my children to be journalists, but I myself would again choose this profession – that’s how I define my attitude to this profession. I wonder, I hope you understand the reasons. If you could choose again, would you still choose journalism? - I would, if given the opportunity of a number of professions to select, I would, knowing all that I know now, I would pick journalism again. It’s changed, of course, and that’s a concern of ours, that we’ll still be vibrant, that journalists will still have the ability to work for an employer that has enough money to pay for the research that’s the kind that’s so important for what we do. I’m not sure I would want my children to become journalists, because it’s such a difficult profession and it’s changing, and it’s hard to make a living as a journalist these days. I mean, it’s always been hard, but I think it’s particularly harder now. When you received the Pulitzer Prize, you said, “I believe that good journalism can change reality. I hope that the truth is always stronger than somebody’s attempt to manipulate it, because freedom is an objective word that can kill a lie.” I would like to know your thoughts and your perspective on the power or lack thereof of the journalistic career, profession. - Let me take a crack at it, you can ask it again if I don’t answer it. Journalism is a serious business. When it’s done well, it requires a lot of time and dedication and it requires a certain amount of courage, too, to be able to stand up to powerful interests that perhaps don’t want the truth known. And there are times when journalists find that courage within themselves and other times when they don’t. But we’re human and we’re no different

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

indignation” to power yourself to go through all of the roadblocks that are put up by governments, by individuals, by all those people who don’t want the truth to be known. And you have to fight through that, and you have to be persistent, and you have to be stubborn. And reporting on China, China would not let me in to do the reporting that I wanted to do. They knew that I had reported on instances where they had sold toxic pharmaceutical ingredients that killed dozens and dozens of babies around the world. I wanted to go and continue to report on that, and they wouldn’t let me in, but that didn’t stop me. Yes, the problem was political, because it was a problem that influenced political relations between America and China... - That’s right. So, yeah. There are always roadblock in what we do, and there are always times when we sit around, we say, well, “What should I do next, what should I report on?” But I think the successful journalists are ones who have this power of observation, where they look at something, and they say, “What’s wrong with this picture? Something doesn’t make sense.” And as someone who was born curious, as someone who was born asking questions that drove my parents crazy, cause I was always asking questions, you know, “Enough already!” That’s just the nature of who I am and so it was a natural progression then to become a journalist.

than any other profession. We have our ethics and our standards and our ideals and we try and live up to them. Sometimes we do and sometimes we don’t; and when we do, it’s a joyous occasion for me and for my colleagues. And when we don’t, well, it’s a time to reflect and think about how we might do our jobs better. You’re the third Serbian to win the Pulitzer Prize. In the twenty years following you have got three in all for this research journalism. In Serbia this is not a very popular style of journalism. Could you tell us something more about the concept and the way that you work and the problems and dangers of it, and your

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

own kind of experiences? How did you discover these poisonous toys imported from China, how did you find that information? Tell us what was happening... - You start with an intense curiosity. You cannot be an effective, successful journalist if you’re not curious. In particular, to be an investigative journalist, which is what I am, it requires something that we call in our profession “a low threshold of indignation”. What that means is that we get angry in a responsible sort of way when we see things that aren’t right, in instances where people are being harmed unjustly. And we don’t like it, we want to do something about it. And I think it requires that sort of, as I call it, “low threshold of

What is important for your students to know about journalism? - There are certain tips that we give to students. One is to never take ‘no’ for an answer. If somebody says ‘no’, ask the question a different way, go to somebody else who has the information. Another tip for reporting is that it’s important to always go back, even if they give you the information, it’s important to go back again because every time you go back, you get more. The storytelling is almost as important as the information. Being able to convey the information that you get in a readable form so that people will read it. Just as historians have changed how they write history into a more narrative nonfiction, you pick up a good history book these days, it’s written like a novel, except with the facts. And journalism is changing that way too. If you want people to care about what you find, you have to make them care about how you’ve written that, and you’ve got to make them want to read from the beginning to the end. It’s important to be a storyteller in addition to an investigator. Dragana Marković Photo: Karić Foundation

INTERVJU VOLT E R VOLT B OG DA N IČ, ame rički novinar srpskog por e kla sa tri Pulice ra

PRVA VERZIJA ISTORIJE Verujem da dobro novinarstvo menja stvarnost. Trudim se samo da istina bude jača od pokušaja da se njome manipuliše, jer slobodna i objektivna reč ume da ubije laž.

„Ponovo sam u Srbiji i da sam znao da je tako zabavno i lepo biti ovde, ne bih čekao pedeset i pet godina da se u nju vratim“ – rekao je Volt Bogdanič na dodeli Nagrade „Braća Karić“ za novinarstvo. Američki novinar srpskog porekla je već u svojoj biografiji zabeležio tri Pulicerove nagrade. Prvog „Pulicera“ dobio je kao reporter „Volstrit žurnala“ 1988. godine, posle serije napisa o ilegalnim medicinskim laboratorijama u Americi. To istraživanje trajalo je tri godine i bilo veoma naporno i opasno. Na osnovu njega napisao je i knjigu „Velika bela laž“. Drugog „Pulicera“ osvojio je 2005. godine za istraživanje nesrećnih slučajeva u američkoj železnici, sa nazivom „Smrt pod vagonima“. Primajući treću Pulicerovu nagradu za istraživanje o toksičnosti pojedinih igračaka uvezenih u SAD iz Kine, rekao je da je on samo običan borac za istinu. Te reči prepoznatljive su kao novinarski princip u njegovom pisanju. Prestižni Univerzitet Kolumbija ga je zbog ogromnog doprinosa istraživačkom novinarstvu angažovao da vodi katedru za novinarstvo. Objašnjavajući šta je bitno doprinelo njegovom uspehu u borbi za istinu, ističe svoje poreklo. „Veoma sam ponosan na svoje srpsko poreklo, i to mi je važno u životu. Kada je reč o novinarstvu, više volim da govorim o tome kako su moje priče pomogle žrtvama korporativne pohlepe i neodgovornog ponašanja establišmenta. Ne mogu da zamislim da postoji čovek koji je bio više ponosan na svoje srpsko poreklo od mog oca.“ Rođen je u srpskoj koloniji u Čikagu 10. oktobra 1950. godine. Novinarstvo je studirao na Univerzitetu Viskonsin i za to vreme radio u studentskom listu i srpskim novinama. Kao profesionalni novinar radi od 1973. godine. Tri godine kasnije magistrirao je novinarstvo na Državnom univerzitetu Ohajo. Sudbinom određeni ili pojedinačnim energijama oblikovani, naši životi protiču na različite načine. Šta je to što je odredilo Vaš život, šta ga je učinilo baš ovakvim kakav jeste? To, naravno, mogu biti ljudi, događaji, procesi, izbori, trenuci... - Od oca sam još kao dete naučio osnove demokratije i kako su Sjedinjene Države dospele tamo gde su sada. On mi je objašnjavao i zašto je to sjajna zemlja, a jedan od navedenih razloga bila je slobodna štampa. U našem domu uvek smo čitali novine. Nekoliko glasila redovno nam je stizalo na kućnu adresu, a za trpezarijskim stolom bismo razgovarali o aktuelnim dešavanjima. Otac me naučio koliko je važno da javnost i građani znaju šta rade njihove vlade i šta se dešava u lokalnoj zajednici. A to predstavlja osnovu demokratije. To sam dobro zapamtio. Mene zanima politika, zanima me istorija i bilo je prirodno da krenem putem novinarstva, gde sam

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

mogao da, kako mi to u Americi kažemo, napišem prvu verziju istorije. Jer to je ono što novinari rade. I tako sam otkrio ovu profesiju koju toliko volim i za koju verujem da je mnogo poslužila američkom narodu. Smatram da zahvaljujući rezultatima našeg novinarskog rada znamo šta naša vlada radi. To ne znači da ne pravimo greške, niti da nas vlada uvek sluša. Naš posao je samo da kažemo istinu onako kako je sami vidimo, onu njenu najbolju verziju koja se može dobiti. Govorite o svom srpskom nasleđu kao o nečemu što je odredilo Vaš karakter i što je odredilo Vaša verovanja, energiju i emocije. Kako su Vaši roditelji uticali na Vas. Vi niste rođeni u Srbiji. Kako ste uspeli da odrastajući u Americi zadržite taj srpski gen, da ga tako nazovemo, kako ste uspeli da tamo ostvarite tu srpsku stranu sebe? - Srpska kultura je uvek predstavljala važan deo mog odrastanja i vaspitanja. Srpski se govorio u mom domu, to je deo iskustva odrastanja, odlasci u crkvu, mnogi, ako ne i svi prijatelji mojih roditelja bili su Srbi. Davno sam shvatio koliko im je bilo važno to što su Srbi i šta to za njih znači. Srbi koje sam upoznao tokom odrastanja bili su osećajni, brižni ljudi, puni energije, veseljaci. Voleli su pesmu, književnost, prijateljstvo, porodicu. Mojim roditeljima bilo je važno da to bude deo mene. Odnos prema sopstvenoj profesiji često definišem iskazom da svojoj deci nikad ne bih poželela da budu novinari, ali bih uvek ponovo izabrala novinarstvo. Pretpostavljam da potpuno razumete razloge. Ako biste ponovo birali, da li biste izabrali isti poziv? - Bih. Ako bih mogao da biram između različitih profesija, izabrao bih novinarstvo. Znajući ono što sada znam, opet bih se za isto opredelio. Novinarstvo se, naravno, promenilo. Naša briga je da li ćemo moći i dalje da radimo za poslodavca koji ima dovoljno novca da plati istraživanje, što je veoma bitno u našem poslu. Nisam uveren da bih želeo da moja deca postanu novinari, jer to je teška profesija, koja se stalno menja. Uvek se od novinarstva teško živelo, a danas naročito. Kada ste dobili Pulicerovu nagradu, rekli ste: „Verujem da dobro novinarstvo menja stvarnost. Trudim se samo da istina bude jača od pokušaja da se njome manipuliše, jer slobodna i objektivna reč ume da ubije laž.“ Volela bih da čujem šta mislite i koja je Vaša perspektiva moći ili nedostatka moći novinarske profesije. - Pokušaću da odgovorim na ovo pitanje, mada ne znam da li ću uspeti. Novinarstvo je ozbiljan posao. Kada se dobro radi, zahteva mnogo vreme-

na i posvećenosti, te određenu količinu hrabrosti kako biste se suprotstavili interesima moći koje ne žele da se istina zna. Nekada novinari nađu hrabrosti, nekada ne. Ali i mi smo ljudi, ne razlikujemo se toliko od drugih profesija. Mi imamo našu etiku i standarde, naše ideale, i pokušavamo da živimo u skladu s njima. Nekada nam to uspeva na radost mojih kolega i moju radost. A kada ne uspeva, vreme je da se preispitamo i razmislimo šta i kako dalje. Vi ste treći Srbin koji je osvojio Pulicerovu nagradu. Za dvadeset godina dobili ste tri nagrade za istraživačko novinarstvo. U Srbiji to nije baš popularan stil, ne susrećemo ga često. Možete li nam reći nešto više o tom konceptu, kako Vi radite, koji su problemi i opasnosti takvog novinarstva? Kako ste otkrili otrovne igračke uvezene iz Kine, kako ste došli do tih informacija, šta se dešavalo?

- Počinje se sa snažnom znatiželjom. Ne može se biti uspešan novinar ako niste radoznali. Naročito ako hoćete da se bavite istraživačkim novinarstvom. To zahteva nešto što mi u našoj profesiji zovemo „niski prag indignacije“. To znači da mi reagujemo na odgovoran način kada vidimo stvari koje nisu ispravne, kada se ljudima nanosi šteta. Mislim da je tu potreban taj, kako ga ja zovem, „niski prag indignacije“ kako bismo imali snage da pređemo sve prepreke koje pred nas postavlja vlast, pojedinci, svi oni koji ne žele da se istina sazna. Moramo da se izborimo s tim i budemo uporni, čak tvrdoglavi. Što se izveštavanja o Kini tiče, nisam od te zemlje dobio dozvolu da radim reportažu koju sam želeo. Znali su da sam izveštavao o tome kako su prodavali toksične farmaceutske sastojke koji su uzrokovali smrt desetina beba širom sveta. Hteo sam da nastavim sa izveštavanjem o tome, a oni mi nisu dozvolili. To me ipak nije zaustavilo.

Da, problem je dobio političke razmere, uticao je na odnose između Amerike i Kine… - Tako je. Uvek postoje prepreke u našem poslu i trenuci kada se pitamo: „Šta sledeće da uradim, o čemu da izveštavam?“ Ali ja smatram da su uspešni novinari oni koji imaju moć zapažanja. Imate skup činjenica, pogledate ga i kažete: „Nešto ovde ne valja. Nešto tu nema smisla.“ To je proces pitanja „zašto“ i istraživanje toga „zašto“ navodi nas da izveštavamo. Kao neko ko je rođen znatiželjan, kao neko ko je vazda postavljao pitanja, što je moje roditelje dovodila do ludila. Govorili bi: „Dosta više!“ To je moja priroda i prirodno je bilo da postanem novinar. Šta je važno da studenti znaju o novinarstvu? - Postoje neke ključne stvari, saveti koje dajemo studentima. Jedan je: nikad ne prihvatiti „ne“ kao odgovor. Ako neko kaže „ne“, treba postaviti pitanje na drugačiji način, pitati nekog

drugog ko ima tu istu informaciju. Drugi savet kod izveštavanja bio bi da je važno uvek se vratiti bar još jednom čak i kada dobijete informaciju. Jer svaki put kad se vratite, dobijete više. Način na koji ispričate priču skoro je jednako važan koliko i sama informacija. Kao što su i istoričari promenili način na koji pišu istoriju, sada je narativniji. Danas kada uzmete dobru istorijsku knjigu, videćete da je napisana kao roman, a činjenice su tu. I novinarstvo se menja u tom smeru. Ako hoćete da ljudi obrate pažnju na ono o čemu pišete, moraju ceniti vaš način izražavanja i želeti da to pročitaju od početka do kraja. Važno je biti istraživač, ali je važno biti i pripovedač. Dragana Marković Photo: Karić Foundation

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TOP 15 AT TR AC TIONS

OF BELGRADE

AN ENTICING METROPOLIS The capital of Serbia is a gate between the East and the West. It is a hotspot of diverse cultures that has produced a characteristic spirit of openness and cosmopolitism. Two big rivers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Sava and the Danube â&#x20AC;&#x201C; leave a unique imprint on it, with a plethora of cultural events and venues to go out to. The city has a lot of interesting ambiences and a big repository of beautiful items inside of its museums, churches, streets, parks... Exciting and dynamic, Belgrade is a strong urban magnet.

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TOP 15 BEOGR ADSKIH ATR AKCIJA

ZAVODLJIVI METROPOLIS Glavni grad Srbije kapija je između Istoka i Zapada. On je topionica raznolikih kultura koja je proizvela jedan osobit duh otvorenosti i kosmopolitizma. Jedinstveni pečat daju mu dve velike reke – Sava i Dunav, obilje kulturnih dešavanja i mesta za izlazak. Grad ima mnogo zanimljivih ambijenata i sadrži čitavu riznicu lepota u muzejima, crkvama, ulicama, parkovima... Uzbudljiv i dinamičan, Beograd je snažan urbani magnet.

THE PRIMEVAL BEGINNINGS OF THE WHITE CITY Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park are an open-air museum of the city’s history. Within the walls of the fort, there are a lot of monuments testifying of the development of the city from ancient to contemporary times. In the Upper City, there are: the Victor Statue – a city landmark, the Military Museum, the Roman Well, Ružica Church, Church of St. Petka, the Clock Tower... In the Lower City, worth visiting are an exhibition at Nebojsa Tower and the Belgrade Zoo.

PRAPOČETAK BELOG GRADA Beogradska tvrđava i park Kalemegdan muzej su istorije grada na otvorenom. Unutar utvrđenja postoji mnoštvo spomenika koji svedoče o razvoju grada od antičkog do savremenog doba. U Gornjem gradu nalaze se: statua Pobednik – simbol grada, Vojni muzej, Rimski bunar, Crkva Ružica, Crkva Sv. Petke, Sahat- kula... U Donjem gradu vredno je posetiti postavku u kuli Nebojši, te Beo–zoo vrt.

THE STREET OF A NOBLE PRINCE The pedestrian zone and the trading centre – Knez Mihailova Street and the Republic Square – are amongst the architectonically worthiest and liveliest parts of the city. The monument dedicated to Prince Mihailo and the palace of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts are two most recognisable landmarks of the city centre. There are also the edifices of the National Theatre and the National Museum. The Ethnographic Museum, Princess Ljubica’s Residence, Serbian Orthodox Church Museum, the Zepter Museum, Museum of Applied Arts, Fresco Gallery as well as many other institutions of culture are located there.

ULICA PLEMENITOG KNEZA Pešačka zona i trgovački centar – Knez Mihailova ulica i Trg republike među arhitektonski su najvrednijim i najživljim delovima grada. Spomenik knezu Mihailu i palata Srpske akademije nauka i umetnosti dva su najupečatljivija obeležja najužeg centra. Tu su i zdanja Narodnog pozorišta i Narodnog muzeja. U toj zoni nalaze se Etnografski muzej, Konak kneginje Ljubice, Muzej Srpske pravoslavne crkve, Muzej Zepter, Muzej primenjene umetnosti, Galerija fresaka, te mnoge druge institucije kulture.

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THE BOHEMIAN QUARTER There is a catch phrase, “He who has not been to Skadarlija has not been to Belgrade either.” On that old, cobbled street, there are famous inns: Three Hats, Two Deer, There Will Be Days, My Hat... They cherish the tradition of joyful hangout with old town music and specialties of the national cuisine. A gentleman’s cane, a carnation and a boater hat are the symbols of the quarter.

BOEMSKI KVART Postoji krilatica koja kaže: „Ko nije bio u Skadarliji, nije ni bio u Beogradu.“ U toj staroj, kaldrmom popločanoj ulici nalaze se znamenite kafane: Tri šešira, Dva jelena, Ima dana, Šešir moj... One neguju tradiciju veselog provoda uz starogradsku muziku i ukuse nacionalne kuhinje. Simbol kvarta su gospodski štap, karanfili i žirado šešir.

ST. SAVA’S TEMPLE One of the largest Orthodox temples in the world was built on the spacious square in Vračar, where – toward the end of the 16th century – the Turks burnt the relics of St. Sava, the first Serbian archbishop and a great man of the national history. The temple has three galleries for choirs and can host about ten thousand people. HRAM SVETOG SAVE Jedan od najvećih pravoslavnih hramova na svetu izgrađen je na prostranom Vračarskom platou, na mestu gde su krajem 16. veka Turci spalili mošti Svetog Save – prvog srpskog arhiepiskopa i velikana nacionalne istorije. Hram ima tri galerije za horove i može da primi oko deset hiljada ljudi.

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SAVAMALA – A CREATIVE DISTRICT One of the oldest and until recently neglected quarters is going through an exciting transformation and is again becoming the cultural focal point of the city. The monumental edifice of the Belgrade Cooperativ, the Bristol hotel, Manak and Spanish houses, Mixer House and numerous clubs will discover an unusual “retro-modern” zone of Belgrade.

SAVAMALA - KREATIVNI DISTRIKT Jedna od najstarijih, doskora zanemarenih četvrti, prolazi kroz uzbudljivu transformaciju i postaje novo kulturno središte grada. Monumentalno zdanje Beogradske zadruge, hotel Bristol, Manakova i Španska kuću, Mixer House, kao i brojni klubovi, otkriće vam jednu neobičnu "retro-modernu" zonu Beograda.

REMEBERING TITO AND SOCIALISM The permanent exhibition of the Museum of Yugoslav History vividly witnesses about the history of the former Yugoslavia and the life and work of its legendary president Josip Broz Tito. The Museum consists of the Museum 25 May, the Old Museum and the House of Flowers.

SEĆANJE NA TITA I SOCIJALIZAM O istoriji bivše Jugoslavije i životu i delu njenog legendarnog predsednika Josipa Broza Tita, živo svedoče stalne postavke Muzeja istorije Jugoslavije. U njegovom sastavu su „Muzej 25. Maj”, „Stari muzej” i „Kuća cveća”.

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OLD ZEMUN Once on the very border of the two empires, Zemun still gives impression of the atmosphere of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. Gardoš Tower, offering a panoramic view of the Danube, is the symbol of that extraordinary city. Paying tourist visits to the edifices worth being seen also includes a walk along the lively and arranged Danube bank. A sandy beach called Lido on the big War Island, which is Belgrade’s protected natural good, is yet another pearl of the city of Zemun.

STARI ZEMUN Nekada na samoj granici dva carstva, Zemun i danas odiše atmosferom Austrougarske carevine. Simbol tog posebnog grada je kula Gardoš s panoramskim pogledom na Dunav. Turistički obilazak vrednih zdanja uključuje i šetnju živopisnom uređenom obalom Dunava. Još jedan biser Zemuna je peščana plaža Lido na Velikom ratnom ostrvu, koje je zaštićeno prirodno dobro Beograda.

THE ROYAL COMPOUND The Royal Palace and the White Palace testify of the history and refined artistic feel of the Serbian Karadjordjević dynasty. Today, Heir to the Throne Aleksandar II lives at the Royal Palace, a showcase villa built in the SerbianByzantine style.

DVORSKI KOMPLEKS Kraljevski i Beli dvor svedoče o istoriji i rafiniranom umetničkom ukusu srpske dinastije Karađorđević. U Kraljevskom dvoru, reprezentativnoj vili srpskovizantijskog stila, danas živi prestolonaslednik Aleksandar II sa porodicom.

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BELGRADE RIVERS – SAVA AND DANUBE The riverbank zone of the city is its special treasure: popular rafts, clubs, the greenery... all these give a unique impression of the metropolis on the water. The quay at the Confluence, Zemun Quay and the Sava River Harbour are only part of the space on the river banks offering different amenities: tourist sightseeing of the city from the rivers, going out to floating river clubs, riding bicycles, walking and watching the bridges…

ŽIVOT NA SAVI I DUNAVU Posebno blago je priobalje grada: splavovi, klubovi, zelenilo... Pružaju jedinstven doživljaj metropole na vodi. Kej na Ušću, Zemunski kej i Savsko pristanište samo su deo prostora na obalama koji nude različite sadržaje: turističko razgledanje grada sa reka, izlaske na splavove, vožnju biciklom, šetnje s pogledom na mostove...

TOPČIDER PARK The court park, the court church and the oriental residence of the great Serbian ruler Miloš Obrenović speak volumes about liberation of Serbia from the Turks. A magnificent old plane tree is its prominent feature. TOPČIDERSKI PARK Dvorski park, dvorska crkva i orijentalni konak velikog srpskog vladara Miloša Obrenovića pričaju o istoriji oslobađanja Srbije od Turaka. Znamenitost parka je veličanstven stari platan.

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ADA CIGANLIJA The Belgrade sea – a beautiful river lake surrounded by a wood, with a line of coffee shops, restaurants, bicycle trails and courts is the most beautiful recreational zone of the city. Ada offers one a view of the newly-erected bridge on the River Sava – a world construction miracle and a new symbol of the city.

ADA CIGANLIJA Beogradsko more – prelepo rečno jezero okruženo šumom, sa nizom kafea, restorana, biciklističkih staza i sportskih terena najlepša je rekreativna zona grada. Sa Ade se pruža pogled na novoizgrađeni most na Savi – svetsko graditeljsko čudo i novi simbol grada.

AVALA The Tower of Avala, located on the mountain of the same name, is yet another landmark of the city, testifying of the power of Belgrade to raise itself out of the ashes. Destroyed in the 1999 NATO bombing, the tower has been rebuilt. The belvedere on the top of the tower enables one to have an impressive panoramic view. The colossal Monument to the Unknown Hero is also on Mount Avala. AVALA Avalski toranj na istoimenoj planini još jedan je od simbola grada koji svedoči o moći Beograda da se izdigne iz pepela. Srušen u bombardovanju koje je preduzeo Nato 1999. godine, toranj je iznova podignut. Sa vidikovca na vrhu pruža se upečatljiv panoramski pogled. Na Avali se nalazi i monumentalni Spomenik neznanom junaku.

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MEMORY OF THE WORLD

The Archive of Nikola Tesla, a scientific genius who “illuminated the planet”, is inscribed on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. The archival materials and other valuable exhibits of the scientist’s inheritance are preserved at the Museum of Nikola Tesla. The uniquely illustrated and the oldest Cyrillic manuscript of Miroslav’s Gospel (the 12th century), which is preserved at the National Museum in Belgrade, is yet another precious item from the list.

PAMĆENJE SVETA

Na Uneskovoj listi nematerijalnog kulturnog nasleđa upisan je Arhiv Nikole Tesle, genijalnog naučnika koji je „osvetlio planetu“. Arhivska građa i drugi vredni eksponati iz naučnikove zaostavštine čuvaju se u Muzeju Nikole Tesle. Još jedna dragocenost sa ove liste je jedinstveno ilustrovana i najstarija ćirilična rukopisna knjiga – Miroslavljevo jevanđelje (12. vek), koja se čuva u Narodnom muzeju u Beogradu.

VINČA’S EIGHTH MILLENNIUM

One of the brightest chapters in the European prehistory was written no more than fifteen kilometres or so from Belgrade – in today’s settlement of Vinča. The findings of this locality are so much significant that the whole culture of the late neolith of South-east Europe was named after it – the Vinča Culture.

OSMI MILENIJUM VINČE

Jedno od najsvetlijih poglavlja evropske praistorije ispisano je na svega petnaestak kilometara od Beograda – u današnjem naselju Vinča. Nalazi sa ovog lokaliteta toliko su značajni da je cela kultura poznog neolita Jugoistočne Evrope po njoj dobila ime – vinčanska kultura.

A LOW-BUDGET NEW YORK – ENTERTAINMENT AND GASTRONOMY

Momo Kapor, a famous chronicler of the city spirit, called Belgrade a low-budget New York. Its gastronomical offer consists of cuisines from throughout the world, and the city is known as the “crowned” capital of entertainment.

NISKOBUDŽETNI NJUJORK –ZABAVA I GASTRONOMIJA

Čuveni hroničar duha grada Momo Kapor nazvao je Beograd niskobudžetnim Njujorkom. Gastronomska ponuda obuhvata kuhinje svih meridijana, a grad je poznat kao „krunisana“ prestonica zabave.

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INTERVIEW B oris M alagurski , dir e ctor

BELGRADE, QUITE PERSONALLY “With this movie I want to send a message that not everything is lost, that we have this wonderful city so let’s see how to improve and promote it. I didn’t touch upon the negative issues. I wanted to inspire people to notice what is good. But still change the bad things once they recognise them.”

verwhelming responsibilities, idle time, feeling too hot, then feeling too cold, blame thy neighbour, the state is to blame... We waste our days and years in constant dissatisfaction, and along with them we waste our stories, both historical and very personal ones. It is good if, from time to time, a bit of serenity flashes through the minute cracks of aggregated hatred, criticism and proportional amount of passivity. There appear people with a good idea, strong enough to endure. One of them is Boris Malagurski. This time he transfused his love for Belgrade into a movie. He wrote the scenario for the movie “Belgrade” back in 2007. Meanwhile, he filmed “The Weight

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

of Chains” and “Kosovo: Can You Imagine”. He spent six years preparing for the story about his beloved city. Considering that you are from Subotica, where does all this love for Belgrade come from? - I first came to Belgrade when I was seven. I fell in love with the city immediately. I also spent six years living in Canada, where I studied, graduated film production and started working in the film industry. Whenever I came to Serbia, I would spend most of my time in Belgrade where I also experienced the most beautiful moments of my life. Now I live in Belgrade and I think of it as of my home.

Does that mean that you made the movie in order to repay Belgrade for all those beautiful moments? - That’s right. The other reason is to show to people how beautiful and accessible a capital Belgrade is. During my stay in Canada, the question I would most often get when I said I was from Serbia was: is the war still going on there? In the movie “Belgrade” I address that question, hoping that I will manage to convey to the foreigners how safe this place is and evoke those feeling that made me love Belgrade so much. Moreover, I hope to inspire Belgraders to like their city a bit more, because only if we ourselves appreciate what we have, other people

about some of his emotions about the city, the things he likes the most in Belgrade as well as about his vision of the city’s future. What are the things you like the most about Belgrade? - Belgraders. Of course we have good food, night life, beautiful parks, but the citizens of Belgrade are the most important thing in Belgrade, they give it its special aroma, charm, smile. That’s what I’ve shown in the movie. When tourists travel to other cities, they usually visit the main tourist attractions and leave. Coming here, they usually don’t have enough information and they don’t know what to expect. But what awaits them is the city of open heart. They come and turn Belgraders themselves. Even abroad it is not uncommon for passers-by to stop and assist a lost tourist, but here they will not only stop, they will take him to his destination: if he is searching for a coffee shop, they will go out with him, spend great time together, become friends... I remembered a great example now. An ATM swallowed the card to a girl from the New Zealand, she was supposed to travel the following day, it was Friday afternoon, a group of around 20 people gathered, everyone wanted to help. Within half an hour they managed to solve the problem. She was thrilled, hugging everyone. And this is the best PR for us: to have people leaving Serbia with good impressions in order to spread the good image about us around the world.

will be able to notice it too. Besides love, making a movie requires some other things. What did the trajectory from an idea to the cinema look like? - It wasn’t easy. That’s why it took so long. I sent the scenario to all the production houses, but I received no positive responses. Only after I made the other two movies, the institutions and sponsors started contacting me. My previous movies thought me that I could get support even from ordinary people around the world, in our diaspora, but also from foreigners who liked the trailer. Their donations were the initial impulse for taking the scenario out from the drawer. Special gratitude goes to Novak Djoković, who wholeheartedly supported this project and who talks in the movie

Besides the impressions of satisfied tourists, the foreigners will have a chance to get an image of Serbia based on your movie. When and where will they be able to enjoy the recorded beauties of our city? - The movie made it into the program of the Montecasino Film Festival in Johannesburg, Republic of South Africa and it will be screened on 21 st November. They contacted me themselves; they saw the trailer and liked it. We are expecting three screenings in December: in Toronto, Stockholm, and London. Austria and Australia are both planned for the beginning of the next year. It is our idea to show the movie at the National Geographic and Discovery channels. We will try to show it wherever possible. If there is interest, we will distribute it to the national broadcasters too. Our goal is to encourage as many people as possible to visit Belgrade, but also to make Belgraders start noticing the details this city is treasuring. The movie about Belgrade is full of details. How did you choose the ones to show? - It was a long research work. The list of people who helped me, either by giving me an idea or by

providing me with information, is long too. I was choosing the things I found most interesting. I was inspired by a French documentary. I saw it in 2007 and was delighted with the way the author presented Paris. It wasn’t just an ordinary tour guide. She managed to convey the soul of Pairs in the movie. I tried to do the same thing with Belgrade. By intertwining the history and the present I tried to translate the soul of the city, the way I feel it myself. After the screening at the Sava Centre, people approached me with suggestions – where I spent too much time, what should be added... Is that material for a new movie? - I have filmed the movie. Now it’s up to other people to turn the criticism into something constructive. I am glad I made them think about Belgrade, even if it was criticism. I think the main problem in Serbia is that people keep complaining about everything, but they do nothing to change it. With this movie I want to send a message that not everything is lost, that we have this wonderful city so let’s see how to improve and promote it. I didn’t touch upon the negative issues. I wanted to inspire people to notice what is good. But still change the bad things once they recognise them. Dragana Barjaktarević

Mladen Janković, director of photography: “Racing around day after day I forgot how fantastic this city was. While shooting the movie, Belgrade delighted me once again. I travelled both East and West for work. Belgrade is exactly in the middle of the road, relaxed enough to be fun, but at the same time civilized enough to offer enjoyment. It was a pleasure and a privilege to show such a city. Filming took a long time, at times it was exhausting, but when I see the end result, the movie gleaming with positive spirit – everything fully paid off.” Veljko Kuzmančević, composer of original music: “Boris is an interesting person in this for art fairly strange environment. He came here to make something beautiful and creative. The film stands on an equal footing with other movies shown at the National Geographic Channel and Discovery. I wrote the music for the movie. The scenes were such that the music wrote itself.”

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

INTERVJU B oris M alagurski , r e dit e lj

BEOGRAD, SASVIM LIČNO

Favourite spot – Belgrade’s oldest inn „?“

„Ovim filmom želim da poručim – nije sve propalo, imamo ovaj predivni grad, hajde da vidimo kako da ga unapredimo i promovišemo. Nisam se doticao negativnih tema, hteo sam da inspirišem ljude da obrate pažnju na ono što je dobro. A i kada vide nešto negativno, da pokušaju to da promene.“

ilne obaveze, te prazan hod, previše nam je vruće, pa previše hladno, kriv je komšija, ne valja država... U stalnim nezadovoljstvima promiču nam dani i godine, a sa njima priče, one istorijske i neke sasvim lične. Dobro je ako kroz sitne pukotine nagomilane mržnje, kritike i tome srazmerne pasivnosti, s vremena na vreme ipak sevne malo vedrine. Pojave se ljudi sa lepom idejom, dovoljno snažni da u njoj istraju. Jedan od njih je Boris Malagurski. Ovog puta je u film pretočio svoju ljubav prema Beogradu. Scenario za film „Beograd“ napisao je još 2007. godine. U međuvremenu snimio je „Težinu lanaca“ i „Kosovo: možete li da zamislite“. Kalio se šest godina za priču o voljenom gradu. Budući da si iz Subotice, otkud tolika ljubav baš prema glavnom gradu? - U Beograd sam prvi put došao kad sam imao sedam godina. I odmah sam ga zavoleo. Živeo sam i šest godina u Kanadi, tamo sam studirao, završio filmsku produkciju i počeo da se bavim filmom. Kad god sam dolazio u Srbiju, najduže bih se zadržavao u Beogradu, u njemu sam proveo i najlepše trenutke u životu. Sada živim u Beogradu i doživljavam ga kao svoju kuću.

zahvalan Novaku Đokoviću, koji je svesrdno pomogao ovaj projekat i koji u filmu govori o nekim svojim emocijama vezanim za grad, šta najviše voli u njemu i gde ga vidi u budućnosti. Šta je ono što ti najviše voliš u Beogradu? - Beograđane. Naravno da imamo dobru hranu, noćni život, lepe parkove, ali su za Beograd najznačajniji Beograđani, oni mu daju posebnu aromu, šmek, osmeh. I to sam prikazao u filmu. Kada turisti putuju po drugim gradovima običnu obiđu glavne turističke atrakcije i odu. Kad dolaze ovde, najčešće nemaju dovoljno podataka i ne znaju šta ih čeka. A čeka ih grad otvorenog srca. Dođu i sami postanu Beograđani. I u inostranstvu će prolaznici stati da pomognu izgubljenom turisti, ali ovde ne samo da će se zaustaviti, nego će ih i odvesti gde treba: ako traže neki kafić, izaći će s njima, zajedno će se provesti, sprijateljiće se... Setio sam se sad jednog lepog primera. Devojci sa Novog Zelanda bankomat je pojeo karticu, putovala je narednog dana, bio je petak popodne, skupila se grupa od oko 20 ljudi, svi su hteli da pomognu. U roku od pola sata uspeli su da reše problem. Ona je bila oduševljena, grlila je sve redom. I to je naš najbolji PR: da ljudi odlaze iz

Znači li to da si film snimio kako bi se odužio Beogradu za sve te lepe trenutke? - Tako je. A drugi razlog je da bih pokazao ljudima koliko je Beograd prelepa prestonica i pristupačno mesto. Tokom boravka u Kanadi, kad bih rekao odakle sam, najčešće pitanje bilo je: da li tamo još traje rat. Filmom „Beograd“ odgovaram na to pitanje, s nadom da ću uspeti strancima da pokažem kako je ovo bezbedno mesto i da dočaram ono zbog čega sam ja toliko zaljubljen u Beograd. Ali i da ću podstaknuti Beograđane da malo više vole svoj grad, jer samo ako mi sami pridajemo značaj onome što imamo i drugi će moći to da primete.

Mladen Janković, direktor fotografije: „U svakodnevnoj trci zaboravio sam koliko je fantastičan ovaj grad. U toku snimanja filma Beograd me ponovo oduševio. Ja sam zbog posla putovao i na istok i na zapad. A Beograd je tačno na pola puta, dovoljno opušten da bude zabavan, a dovoljno civilizovan da tu može opušteno da se uživa. Dočarati jedan takav grad bilo je zadovoljstvo i privilegija. Snimanje je dugo trajalo, bilo je napornih trenutaka, ali kad na kraju vidim rezultat, ovaj film koji odiše isključivo pozitivnim duhom – potpuno se sve isplatilo.“

Pored ljubavi, za snimanje filma potrebno je još ponešto. Kako je izgledao put od ideje do bioskopske sale? - Nije bilo lako. Zato je tako dugo trajalo. Slao sam scenario svim producentskim kućama, ali nije bilo pozitivnih odgovora. Tek posle druga dva filma, institucije i sponzori počeli su da se javljaju. Prethodni filmovi naučili su me da podršku mogu naći i u običnim ljudima širom sveta, u našoj dijaspori, ali i u strancima kojima se dopadne trejler. Njihove donacije bile su početni impuls da scenario izađe iz fioke. Posebno sam

Veljko Kuzmančević, kompozitor originalne muzike: „Boris je zanimljiv tip u ovom dosta čudnom okruženju za umetnost. Došao je ovde da napravi nešto što je lepo i kreativno. Film stoji „rame uz rame“ sa drugim filmovima koji se emituju na Nacionalnoj geografiji i Diskaveriju. Ja sam pisao muziku za film. Kadrovi su bili takvi da je muzika dolazila sama po sebi.“

Srbije sa pozitivnim utiscima i da šire lepu sliku o nama u svetu. Pored utisaka zadovoljnih turista, stranci će sad moći da steknu sliku o nama i na osnovu tvog filma. Kad i gde će moći da uživaju u snimljenim lepotama našeg grada? - Film je ušao u program Montekasino filmskog festivala u Johanesburgu u Južnoafričkoj Republici i biće prikazan 21. novembra. Sami su me kontaktirali, videli su trejler, dopao im se. U decembru nas očekuju tri projekcije: u Torontu, Stokholmu i Londonu. Početkom naredne godine u planu su i Austrija i Australija. Ideja je i da film prikažemo na Nacionalnoj geografiju i Disakveriju. Probaćemo da ga plasiramo svuda gde možemo. Ako bude interesovanja, distribuiraćemo i domaćim televizijama. Cilj jeste da što više ljudi poželi da dođe u Beograd, ali i da Beograđani počnu da primećuje detalje koje grad čuva u sebi. Film o Beogradu prepun je detalja. Kako si izabrao koje ćeš da prikažeš? - To je bio dugotrajan istraživački rad. Dugačak je i spisak ljudi koji su mi pomogli, što idejom, što informacijom. Uzimao sam ono što je meni najzanimljivije. Inspirisao me jedan francuski dokumentarac. Video sam taj film 2007. godine i bio oduševljen načinom na koji je autorka predstavila Pariz. To nije bio običan turistički vodič. Ona je u tom filmu dočarala dušu Pariza. I ja sam slično pokušao da uradim sa Beogradom. Da spletom istorije i sadašnjice dočaram duh grada, onako kako ga sam osećam. Posle projekcije u Centru „Sava“, ljudi su mi prilazili sa sugestijama – gde sam se previše zadržavao, šta bi trebalo da se doda... Da li je to materijal za neki novi film? - Ja sam film snimio. Sad je red na druge da kritiku pretvore u nešto konstruktivno. Drago mi je što sam ih pokrenuo da razmišljaju o Beogradu, makar to bile i zamerke. Mislim da je u Srbiji glavni problem to što ljudi kukaju da ništa ne valja, a ne rade ništa da to promene. Ovim filmom želim da poručim – nije sve propalo, imamo ovaj predivan grad, hajde da vidimo kako da ga unapredimo i promovišemo. Nisam se doticao negativnih tema, hteo sam da inspirišem ljude da obrate pažnju na ono što je dobro. A i kada vide nešto negativno, da pokušaju to da menjaju. Dragana Barjaktarević

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I Z L O Ž B E VOWS AND MESSAGES. STEFAN NEMANJA - NINE CENTURIES ZAVETI I PORUKE. STEFAN NEMANJA – DEVET VEKOVA 8th October 2013 – 21st March 2014 8. oktobar 2013 – 01. marta 2014. godine. National Museum /Narodni muzej Info: www.narodnimuzej.rs THE LABORATORY OF THE GREATS – THE HERITAGE OF THE SERBIAN CHEMISTY LABORATORIJA VELIKANA – NASLEĐE SRPSKE HEMIJE 5th November - 3rd December 5. novembar – 3. decembar Gallery of Science & Technology/Galerija nauke i tehnike SANU Info: www.sanu.ac.rs MEMORY UPDATE - ORNAMENTS OF SERBIAN MEDIEVAL FRESCOES OSVEŽAVANJE MEMORIJE – ORNAMENTI SRPSKIH SREDNJOVEKOVNIH FRESAKA 6th November 2013 - 31st January 2014. 6. novembar 2013 – 31. januar 2014. Museum of Applied Art /Muzej primenjene umetnosti Info: www.mpu.rs GROWING UP IN KRALJEVO IN THE 19TH AND 20TH CENTURY ODRASTANJE U KRALJEVU U 19. I 20. VEKU 22nd November - 12th January 2014 22. novembar 2013 - 12. januar 2014 Museum of Yugoslav History /Muzej istorije Jugoslavije Info: www.mij.rs EXHIBITION - DANA.MAAR PEOPLE WE KNOW Danica Marinković, under an artistic pseudonym Dana.Maar, presented herself with an exhibition of collages staged at the New Moment Gallery. What stands behind this signature is a marvellous process whereby this visual artist sees herself, life and people around us. She literally physically cuts; it’s like a cognitive execution – she dissects the visual codes of our time, through the themes of memory, mentality, excess, fantasy and our collective past. She creates a universe with her collages where nothing is real and everything is still possible; she connects severity and banality, creating a beautiful and universal work. IZLOŽBA - DANA.MAAR PEOPLE WE KNOW Izložbom kolaža u New moment galeriji javnosti se predstavila Danica Marinković, sa umetničkim potpisom Dana.Maar. Iza tog potpisa sadržan je izuzetan postupak kojim ova vizuelna umetnica posmatra sebe, život i ljude oko nas. Ona bukvalnim sečenjem fizički i doslovno, poput spoznajne egzekucije, secira vizuelne kodove našeg vremena, kroz temu memorije, mentaliteta, ekcesa, fantazija i naše kolektivne prošlosti. Svojim kolažima stvara Univerzum gde ništa nije stvarno a sve je još uvek moguće, gde se surovo spaja sa banalnim, gradeći lepo i univerzalno.

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CONCERTS & SPEC TACLES / SPEKTAKLI I KONCERTI „WITNESS THE IMPOSSIBLE“ 29th November - 1st December 29. novembra – 01. decembra, Kombank Arena Info: www.kombankarena.rs LENA KOVAČEVIĆ 7th December / 7. decembar 2013. Syndicate Hall / Dom sindikata Info: www.domsindikata.rs MARIZA 12th December / 12. decembar 2013 Sava Centre/ Sava centar Info: www.savacentar.net THE NUTCRACKER , ST PETERSBURG BALLET THEATRE BALET „KRCKO ORAŠČIĆ“ TEATRA IZ SANKT PETERBURGA Sava Centre/ Sava centar 22nd December /22. decembar Info: www.savacentar.net DEEP PURPLE 18th February /18. februar 2014. Kombank Arena / Kombank arena Info: www.kombankarena.rs

FESTIVALS/FESTIVALI 19th AUTHORS’ FILM FESTIVAL 19. FESTIVAL AUTORSKOG FILMA 28th November - 3rd December 28. novembar – 3. decembar Belgrade Youth Center, Hall of the Culture Centre, Cinematheque, Student City Cultural Centre, Fontana Cinema Dom omladine, Dvorana Kulturnog centra Beograda, Muzej Jugoslovenske kinoteke, Dom kulture Studentski grad i bioskop Fontana Info: www.faf.rs 7TH SCIENCE FESTIVAL 7. FESTIVAL NAUKE 5th - 8th December 5 – 8. decembar Former Kluz department store, Students’ Cultural Center, National Bank Gallery, Museum of Science and Technology Bivša robna kuća „Kluz“, SKC, Galerija Narodne banke Srbije, Muzej nauke i tehnike Info: www.festivalnauke.org

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D O G A Đ A J I THE NIGHT OF THE ADEATERS NOĆ REKLAMOŽDERA 7th December - 7. decembar Sava Centre/ Sava centar Info: www.savacentar.net, www.nocreklamozdera.com 7TH RAKIJA FEST 7. RAKIJA FEST Mixer House/ Mikser House 14th - 15th December / 14 -15. decembar Info: www.rakijafest.com, www.rakiabar.com 42ND FEST – INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL 42. MEĐUNARODNI FILMSKI FESTIVAL „FEST“ 28th February – 9th March 2014 28. februar – 9. mart 2014 Sava Centre, Belgrade Youth Center , Hall of the Culture Centre, Cinematheque, Fontana Cinema Sava centar, Dom omladine, Dvorana kulturnog centra, Kinoteka, bioskop Fontana Info: www.fest.rs

SPECIAL UPCOMING EVENTS

/ POSEBNI DOGAĐAJI WORLD HANDBALL CHAMPIONSHIP FOR WOMEN Belgrade, Niš, Zrenjanin, Novi Sad 6th - 22nd December HANDBALL LADIES Having successfully organised the European Handball Championships for both men and women over the past two years, Serbia will host the world’s best handball women players. The competition will be opened with the match Serbia vs. Japan on 6 December at 6 p.m. in the Hall Čair in Niš. The Serbian handball team will play in Group B in Niš against Denmark, Brazil, Japan, China and Algeria. The Norwegian national team will be defending the title of the world champion. Info: www.serbia2013.com SVETSKO PRVENSTVO U RUKOMETU ZA ŽENE Beograd, Niš, Zrenjanin, Novi Sad 6 - 22. decembar DAME RUKOMETA Posle uspešno organizovanih evropskih prvenstava u rukometu i za muškarce i za žene tokom protekle dve godine, Srbija će ugostiti i najbolje svetske rukometašice. Takmičenje će biti otvoreno utakmicom Srbija – Japan 6. decembra od 18 sati u hali Čair. Rukometašice Srbije igraće u grupi B u Nišu zajedno sa Danskom, Brazilom, Japanom, Kinom i Alžirom. Titulu svetskog prvaka braniće reprezentacija Norveške. Info: www.serbia2013.com

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NEW YEAR’S CELEBRATIONS IN THE STREETS OF BELGRADE 31st December 2013 – 1st January 2014

dOČEK NOVE GODINE NA ULICAMA BEOGRADA 31. decembar 2013 – 1. januar 2014.

BE CHARMED. BE UNIQUE. BE IN BELGRADE. The New Year’s celebration in the squares is an exciting event that is traditionally organised in Belgrade, bringing together thousands of citizens and foreign visitors. The joint New Year’s party and great fun, with lots of good live music, is a gift of the Belgrade City Assembly. The night which marks the beginning of a new year is waited for at several city squares and the “main” stage in the heart of the city – at the Republic Square – is a must. The programme is always a mix of the best local pop and rock bands and singers, and there are also foreign musicians performing on stage. Belgrade is like a magnet that attracts many foreign visitors that night. Already on the very next day, both the younger and older can take a walk down the “Open Heart Street” and enjoy themselves with hot drinks, colourful candies, performances by jugglers, dancers and other entertainers. The programme for the New Year’s celebration and the Open Heart Street is published at www.tob.rs.

BUDI OČARAN. BUDI JEDINSTVEN. BUDI U BEOGRADU. Doček Nove godine na trgovima je uzbudljiv događaj koji se tradicionalno održava u Beogradu i okuplja na hiljade sugrađana i stranih gostiju. Zajednički doček i odličan provod, uz puno dobre žive muzike, poklon je Skupština grada Beograda. Noć kojom započinje nova godina, dočekuje se na viša gradskih trgova, a obavezna je „glavna“ bina u srcu grada - na Trgu Republike. Program je uvek miks najboljih domaćih pop i rok sastava i pevača, a na podijume izlaze i strani muzičari. Beograd, te noći, kao magnet privlači brojne strane goste. Već sledećeg dana, i mlađi i stariji, mogu da prošetaju “Ulicom otvorenog srca” i uživaju uz tople napitke, šarene slatkiše, nastupe žonglera, plesača i drugih animatora. Program dočeka Nove godine i Ulice otvorenog srca se objavljuje na: www.tob.rs

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Serbian infantry manning a hill-top trench

C e nt e nary of t h e F irst W orld W ar

DEATH AS A REFLECTION OF THE FAITH IN LIFE No other country participating in the Great War paid as heavy a price for its freedom as Serbia did. The truth remains, censed with frankincense, watered with blood and tears, purified by faith in the rightness of sacrifice for the true goal ahead. The truth about a people for which casualties were historically most often a question of life, and death – a reflection of the faith in life.

ext year will mark the 100th anniversary of the beginning of the First World War. The Kingdom of Serbia fought against Austro-Hungary and other Central Powers from 28 July 1914, when the AustroHungarian government declared war on it, to Austro-Hungary’s capitulation on 3 November 1918. In the first year of the war, Serbia defeated the AustroHungarian army in the Balkans. In the following year, its army faced the Triple Invasion. Unwilling to surrender, the Serbian army retreated through Albania. It was evacuated to Corfu, where it rested, armed itself, and reorganised. From there it was transported to the Salonika Front, where it achieved success as early as 1916. After a long period of calm, battles to breach the Front began in September of 1918. The Serbian army set out to breach the Salonika Front. On orders of commander Živojin Mišić: “With unswerving faith and hope, heroes, onwards to the fatherland” – militarily speaking, the army made a breakthrough of the Salonika Front and wrote one of the holiest and most brilliant pages of Serbian military history. French marshal Franchet d’Espèrey wrote in a report on the breakthrough of the Front to his government: “Operations need

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to be slowed down as there is no communication to deliver food to advancing French troops; only Serbian troops need no communication, they move like a storm – forward.” Robert Lansing, US Secretary of State, said on the same topic: “When the history of this war is written down, its most glorious chapter will bear the title SERBIA.” Serbia’s glory was recorded, but Serbia’s sacrifices were also immense. The price that Serbia paid for the great victory in the First World War was disproportionately heavy. During the war, it lost an estimated 1,100,000 to 1,300,000 inhabitants, making up nearly a third of its total population, or as much as 60% of the male population. To better understand the feat of the army which was small in numbers, but great in bravery, it may be best to see what others, its contemporaries, said about it:

Austrian general Alfred Krauss also held a high opinion of Serbs, which is why he didn’t hesitate to say: “I’d like to use this opportunity to note that we have come to know Serbs as worthy enemies. I considered them, and I consider them still, the strongest of our enemies in the military sense. Undemanding, clever, cunning, particularly mobile, well armed, abundantly supplied with ammunition, skilled at using the land, very well managed, stirred to battle by hate and enthusiasm, they inflicted much more difficulty to our troops than the Russians, Romanians and Italians did.”

German Emperor Wilhelm, imperialism and Serbia’s opponents personified in his time, said of the Serbian people: “It is a shame that this small nation is not my ally.” The new Viennese Greie Presse, a newspaper that waged the most intensive campaign against Serbia, wrote about the Serbian people in 1918: “It will remain a puzzle how the remnants of the Serbian army which managed to escape Mackensen’s army, could later be made fit for battle. It is proof that the Serbian soldier is among the toughest warriors the global conflagration has seen.” The Cologne newspaper from 1918 states in the article The Psychology of Retreat: “Few soldiers fought like the Serbian soldier did. He died where he had been ordered to stand his ground.” The German paper Godlische Rundshau wrote in 1917: “At the beginning of the war, the army of the small Kingdom of Serbia represented the best that a small, and in many ways culturally backward country has ever managed to create in the military field. The Serbian soldier was a worthy opponent, and the Serbian army would often prevail in favourable circumstances. Righteousness, even towards an otherwise despised enemy, demands that this be publically stated.”

Milunka Savic, awarded the Gold Soldiers’ Star of Karađorđe Field marshal Mackensen: “I have an unusual admiration and love for people from Šumadija. You are a heroic nation, full of honour and pride; a nation with a great and brilliant future.” Hans Vogel, German army doctor: “There are slackers in every war and in every army, but in honour of the Serbian army, I must say that cowardice and desertion before the enemy on the front were entirely unknown to it.”

Czech author Erwin Kisch, corporal of the Eleventh Regiment of the Ninth Austro-Hungarian Division and participant in the Battle of Kolubara, made an interesting statement: “It was only in Serbia in 1914 that I realised that the freedom of small nations is a force stronger than the violence of the great and powerful ones”, he wrote. “Only here did I understand Chateaubriand when he said that a relentless force – the will, overcomes everything, and that might’s weakness is that it only believes in might.” Kemal Ataturk, even though Turkey was Serbia’s opponent in the First World War, told the chargé d’affaires of our embassy in Turkey, Trajan Živković: “I’m delighted to receive the representative of the most courageous nation in the world – the Serbs, who have overshadowed the glory of old Sparta.”

Cavalry officers on a reconnaissance mission

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Serbian soldier has taken this primacy from us. Don’t mind, dear Serbs, that we are also slightly jealous of that.” When the Serbian army reached the Albanian coast in 1915 and when the Allies were deciding whether to save it and transport it to Greece, the great son of the French nation, Briand, stated in the French parliament: “If only a single Serb would appeal to France to save him because he will not be a slave, it would be the duty of France to send its fleet and save him. And here it is not just a single hero, but more than hundreds of thousands of heroes, of the Serbian nation, small in numbers, but great in spirit. “Vive la Serbie!” the parliament roared, and so this was how the decision to save us was made.

Lieutenant-Colonel of Infantry Ivan Pavlović A Japanese professor at the school of medicine in Tokyo, chief of the Japanese Red Cross mission in Paris during the First World War, said in his speech: “Until this war, we, the Japanese, enjoyed the reputation of being the soldiers with the strongest spirit of warriorship. This time, we have to admit that the

Flag “For King and Country”

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the greatest accolades in the world? They are peasants, almost all of them, they are Serbs, thick-skinned, sober, modest, unbreakable, they are free people, proud of their race and masters of their fields.” The great Golgotha of the First World War gave birth to an entire cluster of heroes. Prominent among them is Milunka Savić, as the most decorated female soldier of the Great War.

The Norwegian colonel Carsten Angel, 1915: “We arrived with little respect for Serbian soldiers, and we return full of admiration. We’ve seen a calm, confident, patriotic people. We have found the best soldiers in the world – brave, obedient, sober, resilient, willing to sacrifice their lives for their country and national idea.”

Two 2nd Lieutenants of Infantry in full dress uniform

French marshal Franchet d’Espèrey also expressed his excitement at the Serbian soldiers’ traits, which is why he asked, almost poetically: “Who are those heroes who can say that they have deserved one of

From the book “Serbian Army in the Great War 1914 - 1918” by Dušan Babac. Published by the Media Centre “Defence”.

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On the road to Kajmakčalan

1 0 0 . godišnjica P rvog sv e tskog rata

POGIBIJA KAO ODRAZ VERE U ŽIVOT Nijedna druga zemlja učesnica Velikog rata nije tako skupo platila svoju slobodu kao Srbija. Ostala je istina okađena tamjanom, zalivena kapima krvi i suza, očišćena verom u ispravnost žrtve za pravi cilj pred sobom. Istina o narodu za koji je tokom istorije pogibija najčešće bila pitanje života, a smrt – odraz vere u život.

aredne godine navršava se 100 godina od početka Prvog svetskog rata. Kraljevina Srbija ratovala je protiv Austrougarske i drugih centralnih sila od 28. jula 1914, kada joj je austrougarska vlada objavila rat, pa sve do kapitulacije Austrougarske, 3. novembra 1918. godine. Prve godine rata Srbija je potukla austrougarsku Balkansku vojsku. Naredne godine njena vojska suočila se sa Trojnom invazijom. Ne želeći da se preda, Srpska vojska se povukla preko Albanije. Evakuisana je na Krf, gde se odmorila, naoružala i reorganizovala. Odatle je prebačena na Solunski front, gde je već 1916. godine zabeležila uspehe. Posle dugog zatišja, borbe za probijanje fronta

počele su u septembru 1918. godine. Srpska vojska je krenula u proboj Solunskog fronta. Po naredbi vojvode Živojina Mišića: „Sa nepokolebljivom verom i nadom, junaci, napred u otadžbinu!“ – vojnički rečeno, izvršila je proboj Solunskog fronta i ispisala jednu od najsvetijih i najsvetlijih stranica srpske vojne istorije. O srpskim junacima francuski maršal Franše d’ Epere je u izveštaju svojoj vladi o proboju Fronta zapisao: „Operacije se moraju usporavati, jer nema komunikacije radi dobacivanja hrane francuskim trupama koje napreduju, samo srpskim trupama nisu potrebne komunikacije, oni idu kao oluja – napred.“ Robert Lesing, ministar spoljnih poslova SAD, tim istim povodom je

rekao: „Kada se bude pisala istorija ovog rata, njen najslavniji odeljak nosiće naziv SRBIJA.“ Srpska slava ostala je zabeležena, ali su i srpske žrtve bile ogromne. Veliku pobedu u Prvom svetskom ratu Srbija je nesrazmerno skupo platila: tokom rata izgubila je, procenjuje se, između 1.100.000 i 1.300.000 stanovnika, što je činilo gotovo trećinu ukupnog stanovništva ili čak oko 60% muške populacije. Da bi se bolje razumeo podvig ove vojske male po broju, ali velike po junaštvu, možda je najbolje pogledati ono šta su drugi, savremenici, o njoj rekli:

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

Austrijski general Alfred Kraus takođe ima visoko mišljenje o Srbima, zbog čega se ne ustručava da kaže: „Ovom prilikom treba napomenuti da smo upoznali Srbe kao valjane neprijatelje. Ja sam ih smatrao i smatram ih i sada kao vojnički najjače od svih naših neprijatelja. Zadovoljni s malim, dovitljivi, lukavi, osobito pokretljivi, dobro naoružani, bogato snabdeveni municijom, vešti u korišćenju zemljišta, vrlo dobro vođeni, mržnjom i oduševljenjem zagrejani za borbu, oni su našim trupama zadavali mnogo više teškoća nego Rusi, Rumuni i Italijani.“

Nemački car Viljem, koji je u svoje vreme bio personifikacija tadašnjeg imperijalizma i protivnika Srbije, rekao je o srpskom narodu: „Šteta što taj mali narod nije moj saveznik.“ Novi bečki „Greie Presse“, list sa najizraženijom kampanjom protiv Srbije, pisao je 1918. godine o srpskom narodu: „Ostaće zagonetka kako su se ostaci Srpske vojske, koji su se spasli ispred Makenzenove armije, mogli docnije osposobiti za borbu. To je dokaz da srpski vojnik spada u najžilavije ratnike koje je video svetski požar.“ Kelnske novine od 1918. godine, u članku „Psihologija povlačenja“, pišu: „Malo vojnika se tuklo onako kako se tukao srpski vojnik. On je umirao tamo gde mu je bilo naređeno da se drži.“

Zanimljiva je izjava češkog književnika Ervina Kiša, kaplara 11. puka 9. Austrougarske divizije i učesnika Kolubarske bitke: „Tek u Srbiji 1914. godine shvatio sam da je sloboda malih naroda jača sila od nasilja velikih i moćnih“, piše on. „Tek sam ovde shvatio Šatobrijana da neumitna sila – volja savlađuje sve, a da je slabost sile u tome što veruje samo u silu.“ Kemal Ataturk, iako je Turska u Prvom svetskom ratu bila na protivničkoj strani Srbije, kada je 1919. godine primio otpravnika našeg poslanstva u Turskoj Trajana Živkovića, rekao mu je: „Srećan sam što primam predstavnika najhrabrijeg naroda na svetu – Srba, koji potamneše slavu stare Sparte.“ Japanski profesor medicinskog fakulteta u Tokiju, za vreme Prvog svetskog rata šef misije japanskog Crvenog krsta u Parizu, rekao je u svom govoru: „Do ovoga rata mi Japanci uživali smo glas vojnika sa najjačim ratničkim duhom. Ovoga puta moramo priznati da nam je srpski vojnik to prvenstvo oduzeo. Ne zamerite, gospodo Srbi, što smo na to

malo i ljubomorni.“ Kada je Srpska vojska 1915. godine stigla do Albanske obale i kada su saveznici rešavali da li treba da je spasavaju i prebace u Grčku, veliki sin francuskog naroda Brijan je u francuskom parlamentu izgovorio: „Kada bi samo jedan jedini Srbin apelovao na Francusku da ga spase, jer neće da bude rob, dužnost bi Francuske bila da uputi svoju flotu i spase ga. A ovde nije slučaj o jednom jedinom već o više od stotine hiljada heroja, toga po broju malog, ali po duhu velikog naroda srpskog. „Viv la Serbie!“ – zaorilo se u parlamentu i na taj način je izglasana odluka o našem spasavanju. Norveški pukovnik Karsten Angel 1915: „Došli smo sa malo poštovanja za srpske vojnike, a vraćamo se puni divljenja. Videli smo narod miran, samopouzdan, rodoljubiv. Našli smo najbolje vojnike na svetu, hrabre, poslušne, trezvene, izdržljive, voljne da žrtvuju život za zemlju i nacionalnu ideju.“ Francuski maršal Franše d’ Epere takođe ne krije oduševljenje kvalitetima srpskih vojnika, zbog čega se gotovo pesnički pita: „Ko su ti junaci koji mogu da se podiče da su zaslužili jedno od najvećih odlikovanja na svetu? To su seljaci, skoro svi, to su Srbi tvrdi na muci, trezveni, skromni, nesalomivi, to su ljudi slobodni, gordi na svoju rasu i gospodari svojih njiva.“ Velika golgota u Prvom svetskom ratu iznedrila je čitavu plejadu junaka. Među njima se ističe Milunka Savić, kao najodlikovanija žena – vojnik u Velikom ratu. Iz knjige „Srpska vojska u velikom ratu 1914 - 1918“ Dušana Bapca. Izdanje Medija centra „Odbrana“.

Nemački list „Godlische Rundschau“, od 1917. godine, piše: „Vojska malene kraljevine Srbije predstavljala je u početku rata nešto najbolje što je ikada jedna mala, u kulturnom pogledu umnogome nazadna država, mogla stvoriti na vojničkom polju. Srpski vojnik bio je dostojan protivnik i srpska se vojska u povoljnim prilikama mogla često pokazati kao nadmoćna. Pravičnost, čak prema inače mrskom neprijatelju, zahteva da se to javno utvrdi.“ Feldmaršal Makenzen: „Ja neobično cenim i volim vas iz Šumadije. Vi ste herojski narod, pun časti i ponosa, narod velike i sjajne budućnosti.“ Hans Fogel, nemački vojni lekar: „U svakom ratu i svakoj vojsci ima zabušanata, ali u čast srpske vojske moram reći da u njoj kukavičluk i dezertacija na frontu pred neprijateljem behu potpuno nepoznati.“

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

Serbian field-gun in action.

B E L G R A D E – T HE C I T Y O F T O U R I S M

60 YEARS OF DEDICATION

On the occasion of the sixtieth anniversary since the foundation of the Tourist Association of Belgrade, the legal predecessor of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade, has prepared a programme to mark the anniversary of organised tourist activity. An exhibition, a thematic monograph and a theatre performance “Café Belgrade” are part of a series of events that will remind the public of the zeal and results in the shaping of Belgrade as a tourist destination. The first in the series of events with which the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade (TOB) will mark its anniversary will be the premiere of the tourist theatre play “Café Belgrade” performed by the theatre Dadov. This play was based on the text of a Belgrade “icon” - the legendary poet and writer Duško Radović, and will be performed during the winter season as part of the regular repertoire, while during summer months it will be played on open-air stages across Belgrade. An exhibition titled “Belgrade - the City of Tourism” has been prepared. Through a series of documents and photographs, it shows the development of tourism in Serbia’s capital. Also, the monograph “Belgrade, the city of tourism” in both Serbian and English at will be presented at the International Tourism Fair in Belgrade.

Tourist ship „Amur“, Belgrade in the 1960s

MADE TO LAST FOR A LONG TIME The sixtieth anniversary of the foundation of the Tourist Association of Belgrade, the legal predecessor of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade, was a great occasion for gathering the material for a monograph on the activities in this city’s tourism sector between the Second World War and today. "The most important data were found in the rich archive of collected documents and photographs of the Tourist Association of Belgrade and the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade. Without these resources, it would be difficult to understand the social, cultural, sociological and economic events important for the development of tourism as a complex economic activity," says Vesna Aleksić, the author of the monograph, in a statement with BelGuest, adding: "This publication that will be before the readership is not an official and complete history of our city’s tourism; it is just a brief reminder of the history and activities of the Tourist Association of Belgrade and the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade. Activities listed in this publication represent only a fraction of our creative past, while the presentation of numerous photographs, documents and press excerpts pro-

vides a retrospective of that period of Belgrade’s tourism history.“ LOOKING BACKWARD – LOOKING FORWARD The Tourist Association of Belgrade was founded as a social organisation tasked with developing and promoting tourism in Belgrade. A group of professionals was gathered from all areas of public and cultural life who invested a lot of imagination, will and enthusiasm focusing their knowledge and efforts towards the development of tourism in Belgrade. For many years, the Tourist Association of Belgrade played the role of a driving social force of the whole city. Today’s confirmation and lasting effects of these actions can best be seen in some examples: the sporting and recreation complex Ada Ciganlija, the tourist ambience whole Skadarlija quarter, and turning Knez Mihailova Street into a pedestrian zone. "This important anniversary allows us to summarise the results of our work, to assess the social role and place of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade in the life of our city and to determine assignments for the future. All that we have mentioned in this review of sixty years of zeal and dedication, obliges the Tourist

Organisation of Belgrade to continue on the path of established values in the development of tourism and promotion of Belgrade,” our interlocutor Vesna Aleksić concludes. BelGuest P hoto by the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade (TOB)

CHARM SIXTY YEARS LONG The theatre performance “Café Belgrade” is based on Duško Radović’s “If you’re in Belgrade for 6 hours”. The main plot of the story starts with the arrival of an alien among young people. While rushing to host him better, trick him or give him advice... young Belgraders tell him the stories about their city. Along with songs on Belgrade, the costumes and the set design, the screening of the film materials of the Tourist Association of Belgrade and the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade has been incorporated into the play.

German tourists, Belgrade in the 1960s

BEOGRAD – GRAD TURIZMA

ŠEZDESET GODINA POSVEĆENOSTI Povodom šezdesetogodišnjice od osnivanja Turističkog saveza Beograda, Turistička organizacija Beograda, koja je pravni naslednik Saveza, pripremila je program obeležavanje jubileja organizovanog bavljenja turizmom. Izložba, tematska monografija i pozorišna predstava „Kafe Beograd“ deo su niza dešavanja koja će podsetiti javnost na pregalaštvo i rezultate u oblikovanju Beograda kao turističke destinacije.

Prvi u nizu događaja kojim će TOB obeležiti jubilej premijera je turističke predstave Kafe Beograd u izvođenju Pozorišta Dadov. Ova predstava, rađena na osnovu teksta „ikone“ Beograda, legendarnog pesnika i pisca Duška Radovića, tokom zimske sezone prikazivaće se na redovnom repertoaru, a tokom letnjih meseci na otvorenim scenama Beograda. Pripremljena je i izložba Beograd grad turizma, koja dokumentima i fotografijama predstavlja razvoj turizma glavnog grada Srbije. Takođe će na Međunarodnom sajmu turizma u Beogradu biti promovisana monografija „Beograd grad turizma“ na srpskom i engleskom jeziku. STVORENO DA TRAJE Šest decenija od osnivanja Turističkog saveza, pravnog prethodnika Turističke organizacije Beograda, bilo je povod za prikupljanje građe za monografiju o delatnosti u oblasti turizma Beograda od Drugog svetskog rata do današnjih dana. „Najznačajniji podaci pronađeni su u obimnoj The first Tourist Association info center

arhiviranoj dokumentaciji i bogatoj foto-dokumentaciji Turističkog saveza i Turističke organizacije Beograda. Bez tih izvora bilo bi teško razumeti društvena, kulturna, sociološka i privredna događanja koja su važna za razvoj turizma kao kompleksne privredne delatnosti“, kaže za BelGuest Vesna Aleksić, priređivač monografije i dodaje: „Izdanje koje će se uskoro naći pred čitaocima nije zvanična i kompletna istorija turizma našeg grada, već kratko podsećanje na nastanak i delovanje Turističkog saveza i Turističke organizacije kao javne službe Skupštine grada Beograda. Prikazan je samo „isečak“ stvaralačke prošlosti, a brojne fotografije, dokumenti i izvodi iz štampe predstavljaju retrospektivu dela istorije turizma Beograda.“ POGLED UNAZAD – POGLED UNAPRED Turistički savez Beograda osnovan je kao društvena organizacija sa zadatkom da razvija i unapređuje turizam u Beogradu. Okupljena je grupa stručnjaka iz svih oblasti javnog i kulturnog

života koji su, sa mnogo mašte, volje i entuzijazma, usmerili sopstveno znanje i napore ka postavljenom cilju. Dugi niz godina Savez je bio pokretačka snaga razvoja čitavog grada. Danas se potvrda tog delovanja najbolje može videti na živim primerima: sportsko-rekreativnom kompleksu Ada Ciganlija, turističkoj ambijentalnoj celini Skadarlije i pretvaranju Knez Mihailove ulice u pešačku zonu. „Ovim značajnim jubilejom možemo da sumiramo rezultate našeg rada, da ocenimo društvenu ulogu i mesto Turističke organizacije Beograda u životu našeg grada, te da odredimo zadatke u budućnosti. Sve što smo pomenuli u ovom pregledu šezdesetogodišnjeg pregalaštva i posvećenosti, nadalje nas obavezuje da idemo putem uspostavljenih vrednosti turističke ponude Beograda“, zaključuje naša sagovornica Vesna Aleksić. BelGuest foto: TOB

Stand of the Tourist Association at the Belgrade Fair ŠARM ŠEZDESETIH GODINA Predstava „Kafe Beograd“ kao osnovu koristi tekst Duška Radovića„Ako ste 6 sati u Beogradu“. Osnovni zaplet priče je dolazak stranca u krug mladih ljudi. Utrkujući se ko će bolje da ga ugosti, smuva, posavetuje... mladi Beograđani mu pričaju priče o svome gradu. Uz songove o Beogradu, kostime i scenografiju iz tog vremena u predstavu su „umontirane“ i projekcija filmskog materijala Turističkog saveza i Turističke organizacije Beograda.

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C L O S E R

L O O K

WALKING DOWN OLD TOWN AND BELGRADE FORTRESS A MAP OF FAVOURITE PLACES The best way to feel a city is to walk down its streets. This walking tour will introduce you to some of the city’s historical landmarks, but also some of the favourite places of Belgrade residents: Albania Palace, Republic Square, Knez Mihailova Street, Kralja Petra Street, where the cult “Question Mark” Inn is located, Cathedral Church, Patriarchy Palace, Residence of Princess Ljubica, Pariska Street and Belgrade Fortress looking watchfully over the city. Info: www.tob.rs A STREETCAR NAMED BELGRADE A TRAM RAIL CITY TOUR “A Streetcar Named Belgrade” sightseeing tour is one that catches Belgrade on the run, from tram rails. The route starts at the turn at the Zoo Park, at Tadeuša Košćuška Street, stopping at Kalemegdan, on the dwarf, in Karađorđeva Street, Nemanjina Street, Resavska Street, Kralja Aleksandra Boulevard, Kraljice Marije Street, Džordža Vašingtona Street, Cara Dušana Street. The tour is accompanied by an interesting story of a guide on the city’s history, its architecture and the life of Belgrade citizens. Info: www.tob.rs

BELGRADE SIGHTSEEING BY BUS THE CITY ON WHEELS One of the favourite ways to get to know a city is a panoramic sightseeing by tour buses. Belgrade too has that to offer. The bus tour departs from Nikole Pašića Square, where it returns after an hour and a half, during which you will see some of the most imposing urban areas – the House of Flowers, Slavija Square, Terazije Square, Republic Square, Students’ Square, Savamala, Branko’s bridge, Ada bridge... A magnificent view is followed by an audio guide. If you wish to sightsee from a mini bus, opt for a tour organised by Glob Metropoliten Tours. Info: www.tob.rs, www.metropoliten.com

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B E L G R A D E

S I G H T S EE I N G

ŠETNJA KROZ BEOGRADSKU VAROŠ I BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU MAPA OMILJENIH MESTA Najbolji način da se oseti jedna varoš jeste šetnja njegovima ulicama. U okviru ove šetnje obilaze se istorijske okosnice, ali i omiljena mesta Beograđana: Palata Albanija, Trg Republike, Knez Mihailova, Ulica kralja Petra, u njoj kultna kafana Znak pitanja, Saborna crkva, Patrijaršijski dvor, Konak kneginje Ljubice, Pariska ulica i na kraju Beogradska tvrđava koji bdi nad gradom. Info: www.tob.rs

TRAMVAJ ZVANI BEOGRAD GRAD NA ŠINAMA „Tramvaj zvani Beograd“ obilazak je koji lovi Beograd iz pokreta, sa tramvajskih šina. Maršruta kreće sa okretnice kod Zoološkog vrta, ulica Tadeuša Košćuška, a zadržava se kod Kalemegdana, na pristaništu, u Karađorđevoj ulici, Nemanjinoj, Bulevaru kralja Aleksandra, Kraljice Marije, Džordža Vašingtona, Cara Dušana. A put prati zanimljiva priča vodiča o istoriji grada, arhitekturi i životu Beograđana. Info: www.tob.rs

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA AUTOBUSOM GRAD NA TOČKOVIMA Jedan od omiljenih načina za upoznavanje gradova jeste panoramsko razgledanje iz turističkih autobusa. Takvu ponudu ima i Beograd. Autobuska tura polazi sa Trga Nikole Pašića, gde se i vraća nakon sat i po obilaženja najmarkatnijih gradskih zona – Kuća cveća, Trg Slavija, Terazije, Trg Republike, Studentski trg, Savamala, Brankov most, Most na Adi... Predivan pogled upotpunjuje priča sa audio-vodiča. A u organizaciji Glob Metropoliten Toursa moguće je razgledanje grada iz minibusa. Info: www.tob.rs, www.metropoliten.com

P O G L E D

I Z B L I Z A

CITY SIGTHSEEING FROM RIVERS ON WAVES Belgrade is one of the few cities lying on the two rivers. Therefore, it is always tempting to get to know the city from its two rivers, the Sava and the Danube. The yachting club “Kej” organises two-hour river tours during which you can relax and enjoy the city from water. To have a complete enjoyment, there is a music programme and dinner à la carte. Info: www.klubkej.com

SAVAMALA CREATIVE DISTRICT Savamala is one of the oldest Belgrade quarters and one of the youngest centres of design, cultural events and exciting nightlife. Savamala walking tour include the quarter’s most famous landmarks: Belgrade Cooperative building, the Bristol Hotel, Manakov’s house and the Spanish house, as well as other famous architectural markers of the district. At the end of the tour, visitors have the opportunity to taste some typical dishes – the “Balkan sushi” and a shot of local brandy called rakija. Info: www.metropoliten.com, www.tob.rs, www.mikser.rs

BELGRADE UNDERGROUNG TOUR AN INVISIBLE CITY Beneath the city lies another city. Underground Belgrade a different set of invisible tunnels, caves, dungeons, bunkers... A great tour for adventurers in search of secrets, legends and an unexpected history of the city. The route includes the Roman hall, the military bunker from the period of the Cold War, the Great gunpowder storage, dungeons at Kosančićev Venac Square and wine dungeons. Info: www.tob.rs, www.eurojet.rs

R A Z G L E D A N J A

B E O G R A D A

RAZGLEDANJE GRADA SA REKA TALASANJE Beograd je jedan od retkih gradova koji leže na dve reke. Zato je uvek primamljivo upoznati ga upravo sa talasa Save i Dunava. Jahting Klub Kej organizuje dva sata opuštanja i uživanja na vodi uz panoramsko razgledanje grada. Da bi ugođaj bio potpun, tu su muzički program i večera a la carte. Info: www.klubkej.com

SAVAMALA CREATIVE DISTRICT Savamala je jedna od najstarijih beogradskih četvrti i jedno od najmlađih uporište dizajna, kulturnih dešavanja i uzbudljivog noćnog života. Šetnja obuhvata obilaske znamenitih toponima Savamale: zgradu Beogradske zadruge, hotel Bristol, Manakovu i Špansku kuću, te druga znamenita arhitektonska obeležja kvarta. Na kraju ture posetioci su u prilici da probaju neke tipične specijalitete – „balkanski suši“ i čokanj rakije. Info: www.metropoliten.com, www.tob.rs, www.mikser.rs

TURA PODZEMNIM BEOGRADOM NEVIDLJIVI GRAD Ispod grada krije se još jedan grad. Podzemni Beograd predstavlja splet različitih nevidljivih tunela, pećina, laguma, bunkera... Odlična tura za avanturiste u potrazi za tajnama, legendama i jednom neočekivanom istorijom grada. Maršruta obuhvata Rimsku dvoranu, vojni bunker iz doba hladnog rata, Veliki barutni magacin, lagume Kosančićevog venca i vinske lagume. Info: www.tob.rs, www.eurojet.rs

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C L O S E R

L O O K

COFFEE BREAK AT DUCHESS LJUBICA LIFE AT THE TIME OF OBRENOVIĆ ROYAL DYNASTY The programme “Coffee with Princess Ljubica” shows Belgrade during the time of the Obrenović royal dynasty. The curator of the City Museum dressed in a costume from that era greets visitors as a hostess of her palace. The story with which she animates the audience is popular and adjusted to tourist museum tours. And after a history class at Divanhana, the central place in the Palace, the guests are served the best coffee and the best Turkish delight. Info: www.mgb.org.rs, www.tob.rs

BELGRADE RAKIA TOUR HISTORY WITH A GOOD SHOT Every country has some typical products. Ours is known for good brandy, locally called rakija. That’s why there is an offer of bohemian and sightseeing tour with a visit to Rakia bars, where accompanied by a guide, you can find out more about rakija and the city, but also in three different locations you can try five different brandies that are served with a special kind of snacks. Info: www.rakiabar.com, www.metropoliten.com

NATIONAL ASSEMBLY A CLOSE ENCOUNTER WITH DEMOCRACY For those who want to visit the National Assembly and become familiar with the work, history and artistic value of the building, group and individual visits are organised. There are several tours, including the tour of monitoring parliament sessions from the gallery of the Great Hall. Individual visits are organised every first Saturday of the month. If you are interested, get listed at the Info Centre of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade (TOB), Knez Mihailova 5. Info: www.tob.rs, www.parlament.gov.rs

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B E L G R A D E

S I G H T S EE I N G

NA KAFI KOD KNEGINJE LJUBICE ŽIVOT U DOBA DINASTIJE OBRENOVIĆ Program „Na kafi kod kneginje Ljubice” predstavlja Beogradu za vreme vladavine dinastije Obrenović. Kustoskinja Muzeja grada obučena u kostim iz toga doba dočekuje posetioce kao domaćica svoje palate. Priča kojom animira publiku je popularna i prilagođena turističkim turama obilaska muzeja. A posle časa istorije u Divanhani, centralnom mestu u Konaku gostima se služi kafa i najbolji ratluk. Info: www.mgb.org.rs, www.tob.rs

BEOGRADSKA RAKIJA TURA ISTORIJA UZ DOBRU ČAŠICU Svaka zemlja ima neke tipične proizvode. Naša je poznata po čašici dobre rakije. Zato je u ponudi i boemska tura razgledanja grada uz posetu Rakia barovima, gde uz pratnju vodiča može da se dozna nešto više o rakiji i gradu, ali da se i na tri različite lokacije proba pet različitih rakija, koje se služe uz posebnu vrstu mezetluka. Info: www.rakiabar.com, www.metropoliten.com

NARODNA SKUPŠTINA BLISKI SUSRET S DEMOKRATIJOM Za one koji žele da posete Narodnu skupštinu i upoznaju se s radom, istorijatom i umetničkim vrednostima ovog zdanja, organizuju se grupne i individualne posete. Nekoliko je programa poseta, te program praćenja sednica sa galerije Velike sale. Individualne posete se organizuju svake prve subote u mesecu, a prijavljuju se u info centru TOB, Knez Mihailova 5. Info: www.tob.rs, www.parlament.gov.rs

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DORĆOL’S SOUND MAP

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ZVUČNA MAPA DORĆOLA

MEETING OF OLD AND MODERN TRENDS Sound mapping is currently a must offer in world capitals. In this way, visitors can experience the place listening to its sounds. Dorćol was chosen as a special place of dialogue with the history of modern trends. On the map, there are spots which through personal stories and experiences explain some past time and current cultural and social events. Info: www.zvucnamapadorcola.rs

SUSRET STARIH I MODERNIH TOKOVA Zvučno mapiranje aktuelna je ponuda svetskih metropola. Na ovaj način posetioci mogu da dožive mesto osluškujući njegove zvukove. Dorćol je izabran kao posebno mesto dijaloga istorije grada sa savremenim tokovima. Na mapi se nalaze tačke koje putem ličnih priča i iskustava objašnjavaju neko prošlo vreme i trenutna kulturna i socijalna zbivanja. Info: www.zvucnamapadorcola.rs

ONE HUNDRED YEARS SINCE THE START OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR

STO GODINA OD POČETKA PRVOG SVETSKOG RATA

REMINDER Towards marking one hundred years since the beginning of the First World War, the tourist agency Magelan and Glob Metropolitan have prepared programmes of sightseeing significant locations in the city that are related to this period: the former Austro-Hungarian consulate, Terazije Squeer, Zeleni Venac, Topličin Venac, Kosančićev Venac, the wharf, Belgrade Fortress. Info: www.serbianadventures.com, www.metropoliten.com

PODSETNIK U susret obeležavanju Sto godina od početka Prvog svetskog rata, turističke agencija Magelan i Glob Metropoliten pripremile su programe razgledanja značajnih lokacija u gradu koje se vezuju za taj period: nekadašnji konzulat Austrougarske, Terazije, Zeleni, Topličin, Kosančićev venac, pristanište, Beogradska tvrđava. Info: www.serbianadventures.com, www.metropoliten.com

C L O S E R

L O O K

AERONAUTICAL MUSEUM HISTORY OF FLYING Visitors who approach the terminal building of Nikola Tesla Airport always notice a nearby large building with a glass facade in the shape of an ellipse. This two-storey building houses a remarkable museum display with over 60 original aircraft, jet engines, models, photo documentation... Info: www.muzejvazduhoplovstva.org.rs

NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM WORLD-RENOWN INVENTOR The Nikola Tesla Museum is a unique institution of science and culture in Serbia and abroad. It is the only museum that preserves the original and personal inheritance of Nikola Tesla. It is in possession of exceptionally valuable collections that bear witness to the life and work of a man of a Renaissance mind. In 2003, UNESCO listed Tesla’s archive in the Memory of the World Register, which is the highest form of protection of cultural property. The Museum is located in the city centre, in a residential villa designed by distinguished Serbian architect Dragiša Brašovan. Info: www.tesla-museum.org

ZOO PARK PARK OF GOOD HOPE Belgrade Zoo was established in 1936. Although it spans an area of only seven hectares, the zoo is very nice and has a lot of animals who are well cared for. It consists of more than 2000 animals with some 270 animal species. Belgrade Zoo is a must-see tourist attraction. Info: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org

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VAZDUHOPLOVNI MUZEJ RIZNICA ISTORIJE LETENJA Posetiocima koji prilaze pristanišnoj zgradi aerodroma „Nikola Tesla“ uvek pažnju privuče veliko zdanje sa staklenom fasadom u obliku elipse. U tom zdanju, na dve etaže, nalazi se izvanredna postavka Muzeja sa preko 60 originalnih letilica, aviomotora, maketa, foto dokumentacije... Info: www.muzejvazduhoplovstva.org.rs

MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE IZUMITELJ SVETSKOG GLASA Muzej Nikole Tesle je jedinstvena institucija nauke i kulture u Srbiji i u svetu. Jedini je muzej koji čuva originalnu i ličnu zaostavštinu Nikole Tesle. Poseduje izuzetno vredne kolekcije koje svedoče o životu i radu čoveka renesansnog uma. Unseko je 2003. godine Teslinu arhivu uvrstio u registar Pamćenje sveta, što predstavlja najviši oblik zaštite kulturnog dobra. Muzej smešten je u centru Beograda, u rezidencijalnoj vili, projektu znamenitog srpskog arhitekte Dragiše Brašovana. Info: www.tesla-museum.org

ZOOLOŠKI VRT VRT DOBRE NADE Beogradski zoološki vrt nastao je 1936. godine. Iako zauzima površinu od svega sedam hektara, Vrt je izuzetno lep i ima puno negovanih životinja. Čini ga više od 2000 primeraka, kojima je zastupljeno oko 270 životinjskih vrsta. Beo Zoo Vrt je nezaobilazna turistička atrakcija grada. Info: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org

H I D D E N B E A U T I E S O F B E LG R A D E

Greeting Belgrade

he building at 31 Karađorđeva Street has a façade that first catches the eye when the ship arrives in the port, with a twenty metres high and eight metres wide mural,“La Santa de Belgrade”, greeting the passengers entering the city. Since 2008, Belef and the Platform for Contemporary Art in Belgrade Kiosk have brought big names of world street art to Belgrade. The idea is for them to leave their interpretation of the city on the façades. One of them is a French artist, Guillaume Alby, known as Remed, because he sees art as a remedy. Since he had never been in Belgrade before, he first studied history of the city and the Serbian art. He particularly liked medieval frescoes and the icon of Mother of God of “the Three Hand”. So he decided to give Belgrade a patron saint whose multiple arms both destroy and protect the city, and he named the mural “La Santa de Belgrade”. The mural is made in black and white, with only two golden objects added. Between Our Lady's feet there is a golden egg cracked open, the symbol of life, from which the city culture is growing, while over her head there is a golden sun, which symbolises life. In making this masterpiece Remed used the black acrylic and the highest quality white paint, so his angel will protect Belgrade for a long time. The city that ate the greenery At 6 Pop Lukina Street, there is a wall facing Brankova Street, hidden by a small gas station, a huge portrait of the metropolis devouring the greenery. Within the project “Super Wall”, which was part of Belef 2009, Belgrade became richer by another mural done by a world artist. His name is Blu and he is an Italian artist who hides his identity under that pseudonym, thus giving the advantage to art, not to the creator. Blu uses buildings in world metropolises as his canvas. Instead of a brush, he

uses a roller attached on a long stick. He replaces oil with the facade paint. Impressive is the list of cities whose walls he painted with his messages. And he also left one in Belgrade. All of his drawings look like, because they carry the same criticism of the consumer society. They only differ in form, because they follow the architecture of the building, emphasising the uniqueness of each place. The mural on Pop Lukina Street shows a negative impact of humanity on the environment – it displays a huge human image, which instead of teeth has buildings and is about to devour a tree, the only painted detail on this blackand-white image. Savamala waiting for the sun At 53 Karađorđeva Street, a view from the swinging Branko Bridge or down to the tram tracks, a façade waiting for the sun. After the Mixer festival this year again remained the resounding echo, a combination of cry and art. Last year there were ten doors at Savamala painted and two new parks. This year, a sooty facade was presented with a new face. They painted it with nostalgia and hope. The mural “Waiting for the sun” is another attempt to have the once most beautiful quarter of the city get back its old flair. On an old box of matches from Hungary there was an ad for the film “Promised Land” (1961). It inspired the designer Aleksandar Maćašev to make the print Waiting for the Sun. Maćašev’s idea from the shirt was transferred onto the wall of the building on Karađorđeva Street by the artist Stevan (Wunste) Šoln. In making the mural, they used paint that contains fluorescent lighting pigments, so Savamala will for a start be illuminated at night at least. Dragana Barjaktarević

S K R I V E N E L E P OT E G R A DA

Pozdrav Beogradu

arađorđeva 31, fasada koja prva upada u oko kada se stiže brodom u luku, 20 metara visok i 8 metar širok mural, „La Santa de Beograd“ pozdravlja putnike na ulasku u grad. Od 2008. godine Belef i Platforma za savremenu umetnost Kiosk dovode u Beograd zvučna imena svetskog streetarta. Ideja je da na fasadama ostave svoje tumačenje grada. Jedan od njih je francuski umetnik Gijom Albi, poznatiji kao Remed, jer umetnost doživljava kao lek (remedy). Budući da nikada pre nije bio u Beogradu, najpre je proučio istoriju grada i srpsku umetnost. Posebno su mu se svidele srednjovekovne freske i ikona Bogorodice trojeručice. Tako je odlučio da Beogradu pokloni sveticu zaštitnicu čije brojne ruke i razaraju i čuvaju grad, te mural nazvao „La Santa de Beograd“. Mural je urađen u crno-beloj tehnici, koju narušavaju samo dva zlatna predmeta. Između gospinih nogu leži zlatno raspuklo jaje, simbol života, iz koga raste kultura grada, dok je iznad njene glave zlatno sunce, koje simbolizuje život. U izradi ovog remek-dela Remed koristio je crni akrilik i najkvalitetniju belu boju, tako da će njegov anđeo još dugo čuvati Beograd. Grad koji je pojeo zelenilo Pop Lukina 6, zid okrenut ka Brankovoj ulici, zaklonjen malom benzinskom pumpom, ogroman portret metropole kojа proždire zelenilo. U okviru projekta „Super zid“, koji je bio deo Belefa 2009. godine, Beograd je postao bogatiji za mural još jednog svetskog umetnika. U pitanju je Blu, italijanski umetnik koji pod tim pseudonimom krije svoj identitet, dajući na taj način prednost umetnosti, a ne stvaraocu.

Blu kao platno koristi građevine svetskih prestonica. Umesto četkice služi se valjkom montiranim na dugački štap. Ulje je zamenio bojom za fasade. Impresivna je lista gradova čije je zidove obojio svojim porukama. A jednu je ostavio i u Beogradu. Svi njegovi crteži liče, zato što su obojeni istom kritikom potrošačkog društva. Jedino se razlikuju po formi, jer prate arhitekturu zgrade, ističući tako jedinstvenost svakog mesta posebno. Mural u Pop Lukinoj predstavlja negativan uticaj čovečanstva na prirodnu sredinu – to je ogroman ljudski lik koji umesto zuba ima zgrade i sprema se da u strašnu čeljust ubaci drvo, jedini obojeni detalj na crno-beloj slici. Savamala čeka sunce Karađorđeva 53, pogled sa zaljuljanog Brankovog mosta ili niže sa tramvajskih šina, jedna fasada čeka sunce. Iza Mikser festivala je i ove godine ostao da odzvanja eho, kombinacija vapaja i umetnosti. Prošle godine je to bilo deset oslikanih vrata Savamale i dva nova parka. Ove godine jednoj čađavoj fasadi poklonili su novo lice. Obojili su je nostalgijom i nadom. Mural „Čekajući sunce“ još jedan je pokušaj da se nekada najlepšoj gradskoj četvrti vrati stari sjaj. Na staroj kutiji šibica iz Mađarske nalazila se reklama za film „Obećana zemlja“ (iz 1961. godine). Ona je inspirisala dizajnera Aleksandra Maćaševa da napravi print Waiting for the Sun. Maćaševu ideju je sa majice na zid zgrade u Karađorđevoj ulici preneo umetnik Stevan (Wunste) Šoln. U izradi murala korišćene su boje koje sadrže svetleće fluo pigmente, pa će Savamala za početak bar noću biti obasjana. Dragana Barjaktarević BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

TOS RECOMMENDS–VACATION IN ETHNO ENVIRONMENTS

DWELLING PLACE FOR BODY, REST FOR THE SOUL Ethno-tourism is one of the most genuine tourist products of Serbia. The Tourist Organisation of Serbia (TOS) gives an annual award called the Tourist Flower Award for achievements in various fields of tourism. The title of the best one in 2013 in the category of rural tourism went to “Golijski Konaci” (Golija Quarters), a newly opened ethno-tourist complex in the village of Komadine, near Ivanjica. “Dwelling place for body, rest for the soul” is a slogan that hits the essence: comfortable accommodation and amenities of the Golija Quarters are just a nice frame for spending time in splendid nature with interesting people.. 54

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t a press conference held at the Tourist Organisation of Serbia (TOS) at the beginning of July, Ivanjica presented its offer for the upcoming season. The tourist entrepreneurs from the Ivanjica end included Draško Milosavljević, the owner of the Golija Quarters, who addressed the press in a manner fairly uncommon for such occasions, “I am a carpenter by profession. I made all that you see with my own hands. I would have never succeeded without the support of my family, my wife above all.” And then he presented the complex: two modern mountain houses called “Golija 1” and “Golija 2”, an ethno restaurant “Krčma” (Inn), two bungalows, an open pool, a playhouse and a park for children, domestic food... at affordable prices. The Golija Quarters look very attractive. The place where the complex is erected is at the bottom of the Golija nature park and is well known for its healing air. Height above the sea level just ideal. Plethora of possibilities for research and short trips – Ivanjica, Golija, Javor and Mučanj mountains, Studenica monastery, Uvac lakes... The presentation of Draško Milosavljević really impressed me. It was both modest and suggestive so I wished to spend my vacation there. I shared my impressions from the press conference with my husband, we took a look at the website of the Quarters and decided to cancel our previously booked trip and spend our summer vacation at the Golija Quarters. Back then I didn’t even assume that the Quarters would get the award and me a topic to write about. MORE STUNNING THAN ON PHOTOGRAPHS We started our journey with an already formed image. The website images of the Golija Quarters are impressionable: mountain houses decorated with flowers, verdure and the blue swimming A happy frog from Golija

pool surrounded by it... When after three hours of an easy drive we reached the gates of the Golija Quarters, the impression was powerful and we were surprised. The images we carried from the virtual world were veracious, but missing the essence: the beauty of the area between the hills, feeling of space, an inner harmony, a view of forests and a belfry of the village church. The real world of the Golija Quarters surpasses the virtual one. The Milosavljević family welcomed us in full force: Draško, his wife Jaca, sons Veljko and Vukašin. While sipping coffee and homemade raspberry brandy, we slowly stepped into the world created by hard work and imagination of these young people. “We started building by accident. My wife and I decided to build a weekend cottage here, at my mother’s property. It was only later that I realised that I could use this space to build a lot more. And that’s how we accomplished this that you see now.” The Milosavljević family has continued decades-long tradition of tourism in the Ivanjica area. They visited some successful ethno-complexes throughout Serbia and got the right kind of advice from professionals in the Tourist Organisation of Ivanjica. This is their first season. A MEDITATING FROG We stayed in one of the bungalows. Besides a nicely furnished room and a bathroom, we had a terrace overlooking the pool and the surrounding hills. The lady of the house brought us bathrobes with the monogram of the Golija Quarters embroidered on it. It is a really beautiful, tiny detail, a barely noticeable brush stroke that completes the harmony on the big canvas. When I look at the Golija Quarters as a picture, with the main composition, I would single out another detail, a small universe that gave me great joy.

BIRTH PLACE OF RURAL TOURISM Rural tourism has been developing for more than four decades in the villages in the neighbourhood of Ivanjica. Apart from the Golija Quarters and the mentioned Avramović pension, also known is the Obradović pension in the village of Katići. The Obradovićs also got their “Tourist Flower” in 2005. The newly opened “Ivanjički Konaci” (Ivanjica Quarters) need to be mentioned. By amenities and the beauty of surroundings, they are not behind Golija Quarters. A complete offer of rural tourism is published on the website of the Tourist Organisation of Ivanjica www.ivatourism.org.

The garden is split in half by a brook. It is decorated with stones, flowers, a windmill model, and an arched wooden bridge. On a sunny boulder in the middle of the brook, I noticed a tiny green fluorescent frog. My hosts said that it was living there for a long time and that they started thinking of it as of a family member and a lucky omen. The frog spent the whole day in the sun. This pretty little creature appealed to me. I went to search for it the day after and barely managed to find it. It hid in the shadow and spent the day in water. Motionless and visibly content, the frog from Golija spent one day sunbathing and the other bathing. I decided to follow its example, halt the exhausting stream of thoughts and just be at this wonderful place. A GOLIJA EXPEDITION At the Tourist Organisation of Ivanjica we got a detailed guidebook for the city and the surrounding area. I had no idea that this area had so many tourist signposts. Arilje direction, Javor and Nova Varoš direction, Studenica direction... Taking into

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consideration that the Quarters are located at the very bottom of Golija, the signboard with their name was, logically, our first choice. Walking up the stream of the Moravica River, we ran into the Roman Bridge (medieval arched stone bridge) and an extraordinary beautiful ethno-house called “SUR Ljubav” (Love). Another thing that makes this place unusual is the fact that it was built by the owner of the coffee shop “Bankrot” (Bankruptcy) from Ivanjica as a resting place. This “restaurant” has no waiters. You enter the kitchen, open the fridge, help yourself with a drink, take a break on the bank of the Moravica, and you leave the money or miss to do so. Is there a place like this anywhere else? Walking turned into climbing. We headed towards Dajić Lake, the centre of the first biosphere reserve in the world! I regretted I wasn’t a biologist who, in the world of a giant spruce forest, would be able to recognise those curious creatures because of which this place is under UNESCO’s protection. Along the way, we also discovered Okruglica Lake on a hill offering an incredible panoramic view. Golija is massive, immense. The meadows surrounding the lake are covered with high, tender grass and strange violet bells. With the blowing wind, the scenery started moving too. We became a part of this beauty. A POOL WITH A VIEW, PEOPLE WITH WARM HEARTS The Avramović pension is included in the list of rural tourist households of Ivanjica. Our Quarters are located in the village of Komadine, and the Avramović pension is in the neighbouring village of Kumanica. We decide to pay it a visit. The road was very steep, and the beauty and the wonder of the sights were increasing with the elevation from the sea level. We were reaching the end, the edge of the forest. The road ends here. A beautiful house with an open pool was located on a glade. The view of space and nature from this place is hard to describe. It cannot be put into words. Mrs. Ljiljana Avramović welcomed us. Coffee, an inevitable shot of brandy and a relaxed small talk. The Avramović Hosts – Jaca and Draško Milosavljević

family house was full of guests. They are the people who like mountaineering, mushroom hunting, riding along forest tracks, skiing in the winter. Our host joins us and gives us a detailed mountaineering map. Horse d’oeuvre is the goat cheese, their homemade product. We talk as if we have known each other for years. Has this climate made those people so open, direct and warm? Our hosts are like that, the owner of the raspberry refrigerator car who we met by accident is the same and so were the grandfather and the grandson who showed us the way when we got lost in the forests of Golija. AT DRAŠKO AND JACA’S I was never a fan of big hotels and resorts. The service is unrivalled; comfort is guaranteed, standards well known. That concept of vacation has its advantages, but the factor of “uniqueness” is missing, the people are missing... I don’t know how, but our hosts know when the right time for everything is. They serve us apples and pears, coffee and honey, offer us with brandy and sit with as for chitchat. Little by little we start sharing our life stories and views and we become interested in each other. I realised how attached I became after naming the folder with the Golija Quarters photographs as “At Draško and Jaca’s”. It contains the photographs of Draško and Jaca’s sons Veljko and Vule competing in swimming with immense joy, several marvellous dishes Jaca prepared, an immaculately set dinning table, Draško’s specialty “Roast lamb under the iron pan”, well with a flower bucket, our relaxed and smiling faces. The little green frog is there too. While saying goodbye Draško tells us that Golija is even prettier under the snow and that he can show us its white vastness on a snowmobile. He promises sledding, scent of firewood, fire in the fireplace, and a pleasant company.

WINTERTIME IN IVANJICA Golija Quarters, Ivanjica Quarters, pensions Avramović, Obradović, as well as many other rural households and complexes in the Ivanjica end have a versatile offer during wintertime. Sledding, riding snowmobile at Golija and skiing on smaller fields of Bele Vode and Kumanica, with quality accommodation and homemade food, can be part of an interesting and invigorating winter vacation for you. Info: www.ivatourism.org

Milena Mihaljčić SELO.RS – OFFER OF SERBIAN ETHNO-TOURISM During the past decade, the villages across the country have seen numerous purposely-built ethno-complexes, 72 houses, villas andKpensions O Psprouting A Oup. Many of them are open all year round and have a variety of amenities on offer during autumn and winter months. The most comprehensive internet portal with an ethno-tourism offer can be found at www.selo.rs

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N I K ,

TOS PREPORUČUJE-ODMOR U ETNO AMBIJENTIMA

KONAČIŠTE ZA TELO, ODMOR ZA DUŠU Etno-turizam jedan je od najoriginalnijih turističkih proizvoda Srbije. Za postignuća u različitim oblastima turizma TOS dodeljuje godišnju nagradu „Turistički cvet“. U kategoriji seoskog turizma titulu najboljeg u 2013. godini poneli su „Golijski konaci“, novootvoreni etno-kompleks u selu Komadina nadomak Ivanjice. Slogan „Konačište za telo, odmor za dušu“ pogađa suštinu: udoban smeštaj i sadržaji „Golijskih konaka“ samo su lep okvir za druženje sa raskošnom prirodom i zanimljivim ljudima.

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Javor i Mučanj, manastirnikada Studenica, Uvačka prostora među brdima, osećaj ostoji lepota koje se čovek nejezera... zasiti.suština: Onalepota je ista, a drugačija. Nastup Draška Milosavljevića istinski me širine, unutrašnja harmonija, pogled na šume i Svaki put poznato ipak mistična i neuhvatljiva. Ona oduševio. Bio bliska, je istovremenoa skroman i sugestivan. zvonik seoske crkve. Stvarni svet „Golijskih konaka“ Poželela sam da tamo provedem odmor. Ispričala nadmašuje virtuelni. opušta, odmara, mami i zavodi. Za takvom lepotom čovek sam suprugu utiske s konferencije, pregledali Dočekuje nas porodica Milosavljević u punom smo internet-prezentaciju i odlučili da otkažemo neprestano traga. A ako ima sreće – takvoj lepoti seRODNO uvekMESTO i uporno vraća. već rezervisani aranžman i letujemo u „Golijskim SEOSKOG TURIZMA konacima“. nisam ni pretpostavljala da će U selima u okolini Goč, Ivanjice ruralni turizam Za početak vam nudimo tekTadanekoliko slika: Kopaonik, Golija, Željin, „Konaci“ dobiti nagradu, a ja temu za pisanje. razvija se više od četiri decenije. Pored „Golijskih konaka“ i pomenutog pansiona Stolovi, Pešterska visoravan, Ibar...

a pres-konferenciji u Turističkoj organizaciji Srbije Ivanjica je početkom jula predstavila ponudu za predstojeću sezonu. Među turističkim poslenicima ivanjičkog kraja bio je Draško Milosavljević, vlasnik „Golijskih konaka“, koji se novinarima obratio sasvim neuobičajeno za ovakve prilike: „Po zanimanju sam stolar. Sve što vidite napravio sam svojim rukama. Ne bih u tome uspeo bez podrške moje porodice, pre svega moje supruge.“ Potom je predstavio kompleks: dve moderno opremljene planinske kuće, koje se zovu „Golija 1“ i „Golija 2“, etno-restoran „Krčma“, otvoreni L I JdvaAbungalova, , G O bazen, Č ,igraonica Ž i parkić za decu, domaća hrana... Cene pristupačne. „Golijski konaci“ izgledaju veoma privlačno. Mesto na kojem su podignuti, u podnožju parka prirode Golija, poznato je po lekovitom vazduhu. Nadmorska visina idealna. Mnoštvo mogućnosti za istraživanje i kratke izlete – Ivanjica, Golija, planine

LEPŠE NEGO NA FOTOGRAFIJAMA Na putovanje krećemo sa unapred oblikovanom na internetu Epredstavom. L J ISlikeN„Golijskih , Skonaka“ T O L O su upečatljive: planinske kuće dekorisane cvećem, zelenilo i u njemu plavo oko bazena... Kada smo posle tri sata lagane vožnje od Beograda stigli na kapiju „Golijskih konaka“, utisak je bio snažan, a mi iznenađeni. Predstave ponete iz virtuelnog sveta bile su verodostojne, ali im je nedostajala

„Avramović“, poznat je i pansion „Obradović“ iz sela Katići. Obradovići su 2005. godine takođe I dobili „Turistički cvet“. Treba pomenuti i novootvorene „Ivanjičke konake“, koji po sadržajima i lepoti ambijenta na zaostaju za „Golijskim konacima“. Kompletna ponuda seoskog turizma objavljuje se na sajtu Turističke organizacije Ivanjice: www.ivatourism.org

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

sastavu: Draško, njegova supruga Jaca, sinovi Veljko i Vukašin. Uz kafu i domaću rakiju od malina lagano ulazimo u svet koji su svojim radom i maštom stvorili ovi mladi ljudi. „S gradnjom smo počeli sasvim slučajno. Supruga i ja smo rešili da ovde, na imanju moje majke, napravimo vikendicu. Tek kasnije prepoznao sam prostor na kojem bih mogao da izgradim još mnogo toga. I tako smo došli do ovoga što sada vidite.“ Milosavljevići su se nadovezali na višedecenijisku tradiciju seoskog turizma u ivanjičkom kraju, obišli uspešne etnokomplekse širom Srbije, dobili prave savete od stručnjaka Turističke organizacije Ivanjice. Ovo im je prva sezona. ŽABAC KOJI MEDITIRA Smeštamo se u jedan od bungalova. Uz lepo opremljenu sobu i kupatilo, imamo i terasu s pogledom na bazen i okolna brda. Domaćica nam donosi

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peškire i bade mantile sa izvezenim monogramom „Golijskih konaka“. To je zaista lep, majušan detalj, onaj jedva primetan potez četkicom koji upotpunjuje harmoniju velikog platna. Kada „Golijske konake“ posmatram kao sliku, uz glavnu kompoziciju, izdvojila bih još jedan detalj, jedan mali kosmos, koji mi je pričinio veliku radost. Sredinom dvorišta teče potok. Dekorisan je kamenom, cvećem, maketom vodenice, lučnim drvenim mostom. Na jednom osunčanom oblutku posred potoka primetila sam sićušnog fluorescentno zelenog žapca. Domaćini su mi rekli da on već dugo tu živi, da ga smatraju za člana porodice i srećno znamenje. Žabac se čitav dan nije pomakao sa sunca. Dopalo mi se to lepo malo stvorenje. Sutradan sam ga tražila i jedva ga pronašla. Sakrio se u senku i dan proveo u vodi. Nepomičan i vidno zadovoljan, golijski žabac se jedan dan sunčao, drugi dan kupao. Rešila sam da sledim njegov

primer, zaustavim umarajući protok misli i samo postojim na ovom predivnom mestu. POHOD NA GOLIJU U Turističkoj organizaciji Ivanjice dobili smo detaljan vodič kroz grad i okolinu. Nisam ni pretpostavljala da ovaj kraj ima toliko turističkih putokaza. Pravac ka Arilju, pravac ka Javoru i Novoj Varoši, pravac ka Studenici... Budući da su „Konaci“ u samom podnožju Golije, odabrali smo taj putokaz kao prvi i logičan izbor. Pešačeći uz tok reke Moravice naišli smo na Rimski most (srednjovekovni kameni lučni most) i neobično lepu etno-kuću „SUR Ljubav“. To je nesvakidašnje mesto i po tome što ga je, za predah, napravio vlasnik kafe-restorana „Bankrot“ iz Ivanjice. U toj „ugostiteljskoj radnji“ nema konobara. Uđete u kuhinju, otvorite frižider, poslužite se pićem, predahnete na obali Moravice, ostavite ili ne ostavite

novac. Da li toga još negde ima? Pešačenje se pretvara u planinarenje. Uputili smo se ka Dajićkom jezeru, srcu prvog rezervata biosfere na svetu! Žalim što nisam biolog koji bi u svetu gorostasne smrčeve šume umeo da prepozna ta retka bića zbog kojih je ovo mesto pod zaštitom Uneska. Otkrivamo i jezero Okruglicu na uzvišenju sa kojeg se pruža neverovatan panoramski pogled. Golija je ogromna, nepregledna. Livade oko jezera obrasle su visokom, nežnom travom i neobičnim ljubičastim zvončićima. Duva vetar i prizor se pokreće. Postajemo deo ove lepote. BAZEN S POGLEDOM, LJUDI S TOPLINOM Na listu seoskih turističkih domaćinstava Ivanjice upisan je pansion „Avramović“. Naši „Konaci“ nalaze se u selu Komadine, a Avramovići su u susednoj Kumanici. Odlučujemo da ih posetimo. Put je izrazito strm, a prizori okoline sa sve većom nadmorskom visinom postaju lepši i nestvarniji. Stižemo do kraja, do ivice šume. Put se tu završava. Na proplanku je lepa kuća sa otvorenim bazenom. Pogled s tog vidikovca na prostranstvo i prirodu ne može da se opiše. Nijedna reč

ne bi bila prava. Dočekuje nas Ljiljana Avramović. Kafa, obavezna čašica rakije i razgovor koji jednostavno teče. Avramovići imaju punu kuću gostiju. To su ljudi koji vole planinarenje, gljivarenje, jahanje šumskim stazama, zimi skijanje. Pridružuje nam se i domaćin i poklanja nam detaljnu planinarsku mapu. Mezimo kozji sir, koji je njihov domaći proizvod. Razgovaramo kao da se već dugo poznajemo. Da li je ovo podneblje stvorilo tako otvorene, otresite i tople ljude? I naši domaćini su takvi, i vlasnik hladnjače malina kojeg smo slučajno upoznali, i deda i unuk koji su nam pokazali put kada smo zalutali u golijskim šumama. KOD DRAŠKA I JACE Nikada baš nisam bila ljubitelj velikih hotela i rizorta. Usluga je bez premca, udobnost je garantovana, standardi poznati. Takav koncept odmora ima svojih prednosti, ali mu nedostaje „faktor posebnosti“, nedostaju mu ljudi... Ne znam kako, ali naši domaćini znaju u svemu da pogode pravi trenutak. Iznesu nam jabuke i kruške, posluže

kafu i slatko, ponude rakijicu, sednu s nama na „čašicu razgovora“. Malo pomalo, počinjemo da delimo naše životne priče i stavove, postajemo zainteresovani jedni za druge. Shvatila sam da su mi postali bliski kada sam folder s fotografijama „Golijskih konaka“ nazvala „Kod Draška i Jace“. U njemu su fotografije Draškovih i Jacinih sinova Veljka i Vuleta, koji se s neizmernom radošću takmiče u plivanju, nekoliko Jacinih kulinarskih čarolija, besprekorno postavljen sto, Draškov specijalitet „jaretina ispod sača“, bunar sa vedrom cveća, naša nasmejana i opuštena lica. Tu je i mali zeleni žabac. Na rastanku Draško nam kaže da je Golija još lepša pod snegom i da nam njena bela prostranstva može pokazati na motornim sankama. Obećava nam i sankanje, miris drveta, vatru u kaminu, lepo druženje. Milena Mihaljčić

Mural – Rest area „Love“ on the Moravica river ZIMA U IVANJICI „Golijski konaci”, „Ivanjički konaci”, pansioni „Avramović”, „Obradović”, kao i mnogi druga seoska domaćinstva i kompleksi u ivanjičkom kraju imaju raznovrsne sadržaje zimske ponude. Sankanje, vožnja motornim sankama po Goliji i skijanje na manjim terenima Belih voda i Kumanice, uz kvalitetan smeštaj i domaću hranu, mogu vam pružiti zanimljiv i okrepljujući zimski odmor. Info: www.ivatourism.org

SELO.RS - PONUDA ETNO TURIZMA SRBIJE U poslednjoj deceniji u selima širom zemlje nikli su brojni namenski građeni etno-kompleksi, kuće za odmor, vile, pansioni. Mnogi od njih rade cele godine i imaju raznovrsnu ponudu tokom jesenjih i zimskih meseci. Najobuhvatniji internet portal s ponudom etno-turizma nalazi se na adresi: www. selo.rs

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

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THE POWER OF ATTRACTION OF RTANJ The migration from villages to cities has lasted for decades, which makes the story of the arrival of foreigners and young people to a village sound like science fiction. In Vrmdža, a village at the foot of Rtanj near Sokobanja, about 20 estates have been bought in the last few years, with new residents arriving from Venice, Pittsburgh, New York, Belgrade, Zrenjanin, Subotica and Novi Sad. They are rearranging houses that are more than a century old and an American can now be found on the voting list.

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ucio De Marco first came from Venice with his wife Biljana. While travelling the world he had the opportunity to see many beautiful places to live and he chose to settle in Vrmdža when he saw houses surrounded by forests and streams, despite the fact that on the road leading to the village he counted as many as 2453 potholes. He soon went native and began to work the land, distill brandy and learn to speak Serbian. He filmed a reportage about his retirement days in this Sokobanja village entitled “Stranger in Serbia”. SOUNDS OF SOUL, JAZZ AND PUNK In the village streets you may also meet Paul Shaper, a punk opera composer. This young American, whose career is on the rise, relocated here with his wife Marija and son Adam. They bought an old house, introduced the latest computer equipment and connected to the village’s high speed internet link. When not composing for Hollywood and London producers, Paul enjoys hanging out with his neighbours, and no one is surprised anymore by the sounds of soul and jazz coming from the house. Then came another family from America, with all the new residents given broad

today houses the Village Museum. The ethno display, which even major cities would not be ashamed of, consists of items for craftwork, furniture, folk costumes from this region and part of the old school inventory. In front of the museum is a statue from one of the sculpture colonies that were held here. “From the viewing point above the church is a view overlooking fertile fields, Banja Jošanica spa, Sokobanja, Lake Bovan and Šiljak, the highest peak of Rtanj. Artists like to sit there, watch the sunset and seek inspiration in the mystical contours of Rtanj and old Latin – a town on the rock carved by nature,” says Slaviša Krstić, President of the local community of Vrmdža village. WHERE HOUSES HAVE NO WALLS “We found out about this strange place from friends who invited us to visit them. The Prvulović’s story that they left Belgrade to live in Vrmdža and deal with rural tourism and the growing of organic foods encouraged us to think. We saw attractive apartments that were made from old houses and barns in this natural oasis and we also wished to live in harmony. We no longer wanted to run to work, to leave our children in nursery school and see them only in the evenings when we are worn out,” says Mirjana Gnjatić, who bought an old house beside the river with her husband Peđa. “When we slept here that first night we felt like the house had no walls and since then our sons Šiva and Teo have slept peacefully. Here are all the pores open and the body merges with the environment, the living being spreads out and feels free and strong. We plan to launch a yoga centre and would organize accommodation for our customers in cooperation with the locals,” says Mirjana. publicity in the media. What had been quiet streets until then were suddenly being cruised by photographers, with cameras peering into barns and orchards and tourists starting to arrive. SOURCE OF INSPIRATION A signpost on the Aleksinac – Sokobanja road indicates the turnoff for Vrmdža, which is now a brand new asphalt road. Passing by meadows and fields, the road winds and climbs to the houses on the slopes of Mount Rtanj, which are home to about 800 residents. The village is named after the word Vrm, which means place of springs, wells and streams. Taps have been installed next to the springs and the households are connected to the water supply. Because of the rich streams, the area is overgrown by trees, grass and plants, so much so that the village could be called Lush Vrmdža. On a plateau surrounded by pine trees is the Church of the Holy Trinity, built in 1818, and old school which

RURAL HOUSE BUILDING Mrijana’s namesake, local grandmother Mirjana, who grew up in a house across the street, is joyful about the arrival of her new neighbours and their guests. The old way of building is again cheap. Houses are built with a stone basement, which represents the foundation of the house, upon which are set oak beams, with walls made of earth and

Vrmdža Lake straw and a façade of added chaff that is finally coated in a layer of lime and sand mortar. The Čikoš family from Zrenjanin has built such a house and plans to build several bungalows for tourists. Following the example of the newly arrived residents, several families opted to deal in rural tourism. Old houses in the village are cheap. Guests come from all over, mostly day trippers, though there are a growing number of visitors who remain for several days in nicely decorated households and enjoy the local food, cows’, sheep’s and goats’ milk, Rtanj tea, Rtanj lamb etc. They can have lunch in the small restaurant next to grandfather Mija’s mill, which is again working full time. From there the road next to the River Vrmdža leads to the small but beautiful Vrmdža Lake, then further on over wide fields as it climbs to the top of Rtanj. Vrmdža is not the only village in Serbia where nature has healing qualities. They have a healthy, green environment, the legacy of Latin - town, a multitude of fresh water springs... But what led so many to settle here? If you ask the locals from Vrmdža, they will say with a smile that only those who live at the foot of this mountain know its power. Text and photographs: Roza Sazdić

LATIN - TOWN In the centre of the village rises a rock of imposing dimensions rock where fortresses were built from the 3rd century. The famous Latin - town recalls the traces of many armies. Here stood a Roman watchtower to defend the imperial road; from here the Byzantine Empire was defended from Slavic tribes and it was a residence for wealthy folk and merchants from Dubrovnik. It was destroyed in 1413. WEB PRESENTATION Vrmdža has created a great website with the slogan “Source of health and beauty”. Vrmdža locals invite guests, pave the roads, create cycle paths, introduce modern communication connections etc. Info: www.vrmdza.org.rs

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

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PRIVLAČNA SILA RTNJA Seoba iz sela u grad traje decenijama, pa priča o doseljavanju stranaca i mladih u jedno selo zvuči kao naučna fantastika. U Vrmdži, selu u podnožju Rtnja, nadomak Sokobanje, poslednjih nekoliko godina kupljeno je dvadesetak imanja, a novi stanovnici su došli iz Venecije, Pitsburga, Njujorka, Beograda, Zrenjanina, Subotice, Novog Sada. Uređuju kuće koje su starije od jednog veka, a jedan Amerikanac nalazi se i na biračkom spisku.

ajpre se doselio Lučo de Marki iz Venecije sa suprugom Biljanom. Imao je prilike putujući svetom da vidi mnoga lepa mesta za život, a izabrao je da se nastani u Vrmdži kada je video kuće okružene šumom i potocima iako je do njih vodio put na kojem je izbrojao čak 2453 rupe. Ubrzo se odomaćio, počeo da obrađuje zemlju, peče rakiju i uči srpski jezik. O njegovim penzionerskim danima u sokobanjskom selu snimljena je reportaža „Stranac u Srbiji“. ZVUCI SOULA, DŽEZA I PANKA U seoskom sokaku može se sresti i Pol Šapera, kompozitor pank opera. Mladi Amerikanac, sa karijerom u usponu, doselio se sa suprugom Marijom i sinom Adamom. Kupili su staru kuću, uneli najmoderniju kompjutersku opremu i priključili se na seoski brzi internet. Kada ne komponuje za holivudske i londonske producente, Pol uživa u druženju s komšijama, a više se niko ne čudi što iz

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čatmare dopiru zvuci soula i džeza. Doselila se zatim još jedna porodica iz Amerike, a svi novi stanovnici dobili su veliki publicitet u medijima. Do tada mirnim ulicama krstarili su fotografi, kamere su zavirivale u staje i voćnjake, i počeli su da dolaze turisti. IZVOR INSPIRACIJE Tabla na putu Aleksinac – Sokobanja označava skretanje za Vrmdžu, do koje sada vodi novi asfaltni put. Prolazeći pored livada i njiva, put vijuga i penje se ka kućama na obroncima Rtnja, gde živi oko 800 stanovnika. Selo je dobilo ime po reči Vrm, što znači mesto izvora, vrela i potoka. Pored izvora su podignute česme, a domaćinstva su priključena na vodovod. Zbog bogatog vodotoka bujaju drveće, trava i bilje, pa bi se selo moglo zvati Bujna Vrmdža. Na jednoj zaravni okruženoj borovima nalazi se Crkva Svete Trojice, sagrađena 1818. godine, i stara škola, u kojoj je danas Seoski muzej. Etno-

postavku, koje se ne bi zastideli ni veći gradovi, čine predmeti za rad, pokućstvo, narodna nošnja iz ovog kraja i deo starog školskog inventara. Ispred Muzeja postavljena je skulptura sa jedne od vajarskih kolonija koje se tu održavaju. „Sa vidikovca iznad crkve pruža se pogled na plodna polja, Banju Jošanicu, Sokobanju, Bovansko jezero i Šiljak, najviši vrh Rtnja. Umetnici vole tu da sede, gledaju zalazak sunca i traže inspiraciju u obrisima mističnog Rtnja i starom Latin-gradu na steni koju je priroda izvajala“, kaže Slaviša Krstić, predsednik MZ Vrmdža. GDE KUĆE NEMAJU ZIDOVE „Za ovo neobično mesto saznali smo od prijatelja koji su nas pozvali da ih posetimo. Priča Prvulovića da su napustili Beograd kako bi živeli u Vrmdži i bavili se seoskim turizmom i gajenjem organske hrane podstakla nas je na razmišljanje. Videli smo atraktivne apartmane koje su napravili od ambara i starinske kuće u ovoj prirodnoj oazi i poželeli da

i mi živimo u harmoniji. Nismo više želeli da trčimo na posao, da ostavljamo decu u vrtiću i viđamo ih uveče kada smo iznureni“, kaže Mirjana Gnjatić, koja je sa svojim suprugom Peđom kupila staru kuću pored reke. „Kada smo spavali prvu noć osećali smo kao da kuća nema zidove, a naši sinovi Šiva i Teo od tada imaju miran san. Ovde se sve pore otvore i telo se stopi sa okolinom, biće se raširi i oseća se slobodno i snažno. U planu nam je da pokrenemo joga centar, a smeštaj naših klijenata bismo organizovali u saradnji sa meštanima“, kaže Mirjana. SEOSKO NEIMARSTVO Novim susedima i njihovim gostima raduje se njena imenjakinja baka Mirjana, koja je odrasla u čatmari preko puta. Taj stari način gradnje ponovo je na ceni. Čatmare se grade sa podrumom od kamena, koji je temelj kuće, na njega se postavljaju hrastove grede, zidovi se prave od zemlje i slame, za fasadu se dodaje pleva i na kraju malter od peska i kreča. Porodica Čikoš iz Zrenjanina napravila je takvu kuću i planira da izgradi još nekoliko bungalova za turiste. Po ugledu na novopridošle meštane, nekoliko porodica se odlučilo za bavljenje seoskim turizmom. Stare kuće u selu dobijaju na ceni. Gostiju ima iz svih krajeva, najviše je izletnika, a sve je veći broj onih koji ostaju po nekoliko dana u lepo uređenim domaćinstvima i uživaju u domaćoj hrani, kravljem, ovčjem i kozjem mleku, rtanjskom čaju, rtanjskom jagnjetu... Mogu ručati i u restorančiću pored deda Mijine vodenice, koja ponovo radi punom parom. Odatle put pored Vrmdžanske reke vodi do malog, ali prelepog Vrmdžanskog jezera i dalje preko širokih polja uspinje se ka vrhu Rtnja. Vrmdža nije jedino selo u Srbiji gde je priroda lekovita. Imaju zdravu, zelenu sredinu, nasleđe Latin- grada, sijaset izvora… Ali šta je navelo mnoge da se ovde nastane? Ako pitate Vrmdžane, sa osmehom kažu da samo oni koji žive podno ove planine znaju njenu moć. Tekst i fotografije: Roza Sazdić

Grandma Mirjana in the garden

Paul Shoper with his son Adam LATIN-GRAD U središtu sela izdiže se stena impozantnih razmera na kojoj su podizana utvrđenja od 3. veka. Čuveni Latin-grad pamti tragove mnogih vojski. Ovde je bila rimska karaula za odbranu carskog druma, odavde se branila Vizantija od slovenskih plemena, bio je stanište bogataša i trgovaca iz Dubrovnika. Razoren je 1413. godine.

Church of the Holy Trinity

INTERNET PREZENTACIJA Vrmdža je napravila odličan internet sajt sa sloganom „Izvor zdravlja i lepote“. Vrmdžani pozivaju u goste, asfaltiraju puteve, prave biciklističke staze, uvode priključke za savremene komunikacije. Info: www.vrmdza.org.rs

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

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TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA LIFESTYLE SERBIA – CAMPAIGN FOR YOUTH In mid-November, the Tourist Organisation of Serbia (TOS) marked the official launch of its campaign for 2014 called “Lifestyle Serbia”. TOS’ basic activity is promotion of the overall tourist offer. In addition to that, each year there are special topics that are especially promoted. Next year, Serbia will address the youth of the world. It will be an online campaign that will use the social networks such as Facebook, Instagram, Twitter... Reliance on social networks is aimed at the rapid spread of information and cost savings of the promotion. The campaign has been designed to present Serbia as an alluring destination, showing the Serbian creativity, innovation, entertainment, gastronomy and an active vacation. Also, Lifestyle Serbia wants to involve as many people as possible who will show their life style in Serbia. In addition to social networking, a blog will be prepared and published at the website Lifestyle.serbia.travel with reports and travel suggestions. SERBIA REMEMBERS – 100 YEARS SINCE THE BEGINNING OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR The First World War – the Great War ended on 11 November 1918 with the signing of armistice with Germany. This day is a national holiday in Serbia, and its emblem is a symbol of a rare flower, Ramonda Serbica. Even when it’s completely dried, it can revive again! Its ability to rise from ashes has become a symbol of the resurrection of the Serbian state, which came out of the war with great sacrifices as a victor. Next year will mark the 100th anniversary of the beginning of the First World War. The Tourist Organisation of Serbia on that occasion announced a special publication titled “Serbia Remembers”. The author of the text, Jovo Simišić, wrote an excellent guide through the history, key battles and the monumental heritage of this period. A special part of the publication is dedicated to the heroes and heroines of the war, including foreigners, some of whom turned out to be great friends of Serbia in the horrors of war. “Serbia Remembers” can be read as an interesting historical reading and an excellent guide through the monumental heritage.

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

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TURISTIČKA ORGANIZACIJA SRBIJE LIFESTYLE SERBIA - KAMPANJA ZA MLADE Turistička organizacije Srbije (TOS) je sredinom novembra na prigodnoj promociji obeležila zvaničan početak kampanje za 2014. godinu sa nazivom Lifestyle Serbia. Osnovna delatnost TOS je promociju celokupne turističke ponude. Povrh toga, svake godine se posebno promovišu određene teme. Naredne godine Srbija se obraća mladima sveta. Reč je o online kampanji, koja će koristiti popularne društvene mreže Facebook, Instagram, Twitter... Oslonac na društvene mreže ima za cilj snažno širenje informacija i uštedu u troškovima promocije. Kampanja je osmišljena sa ciljem predstavljanja Srbije kao prijemčive destinacije, prikazujući srpsku kreativnost, inovativnost, zabavu, gastronomiju i aktivan odmor. Takođe, Lifestyle Serbia želi da uključi što veći broj ljudi, koji će pokazati šta je za njih stil života u Srbiji. Uz prisustvo na društvenim mrežama, biće pripreman i blog, koji će na sajtu Lifestyle.serbia.travel objavljivati reportaže i predloge za putovanja. SRBIJA PAMTI – STO GODINA OD POČETKA I SVETSKOG RATA Prvi svetski – Veliki rat, okončan je 11. novembra 1918. godine potpisivanjem primirja s Nemačkom. Taj dan je nacionalni praznik Srbije, a njegov simbol je amblem sa retkim cvetom Ramonda Serbica. Čak i kada se potpuno osuši, Ramonda može ponovo da oživi! Njena sposobnost uskrsnuća postala je simbol uskrsnuća srpske države, koja je, uz ogromne žrtve, iz rata izašla kao pobednik. Naredne godine obeležava se jedan vek od početka Prvog svetskog rata. Turistička organizacija Srbije je tim povodom objavila posebnu publikaciju sa naslovom „Srbija pamti“. Autor teksta Jovo Simišić napisao je izvanredan vodič kroz istoriju, ključne bitke i spomeničko nasleđe ovog perioda. Poseban deo publikacije posvećen je herojima i heroinama rata, te strancima koji su se delom pokazali kao veliki prijatelji Srbije u teškim ratnim stradanjima. „Srbija pamti“ može da se čita kao zanimljivo istorijsko štivo i izvanredan vodič kroz spomeničko nasleđe.

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AIR SERBIA NOVI POČETAK - ODLIČNA PREDVIĐANJA „Jat Airways“ otišao je u istoriju. „Air Serbia“ počela je s radom 26. oktobra 2013. godine. Prvi avion u bojama i sa oznakama nove nacionalne aviokompanije zvanično je predstavio prvi potpredsednik Vlade Aleksandar Vučić. To je novi Erbas, koji nosi ime „žive legende“, našeg proslavljenog tenisera Novaka Đokovića. „Novak Đoković je dobro poznat i omiljen u Srbiji i savršeno se uklapa u našu novu viziju i posvećenost cilju da postanemo vodeći avioprevoznik u regionu“ , izjavio je Dane Kondić, generalni direktor kompanije. Program „Žive legende Srbije“ biće postepeno predstavljan javnosti: avioni flote „Air Serbia“ nosiće imena četrnaest slavnih savremenika i sunarodnika.

AIR SERBIA A NEW BEGINNING – EXCELLENT PROJECTIONS Jat Airways went into history. Air Serbia began operations on 26 October 2013. The first aircraft in the colours and markings of the new national airline was officially presented by First Deputy Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić. It is the new Airbus named after a “living legends”, Serbia’s celebrated tennis player Novak Djoković. “Novak Djoković is well-known and favourite in Serbia; he perfectly fits into our new vision and dedication aimed at Air Serbia becoming a regional airline leader,” Air Serbia CEO Dane Kondić said. The programme “Serbia’s Living Legends” will be gradually presented to the public: Air Serbia fleet will carry names of fourteen important living Serbs. DEVELOPMENT OF TRAVEL INDUSTRY Air Serbia flies to more than 30 Euro-Mediterranean destinations. It also offers long-haul and across-the-ocean destinations through its codeshare partners and its future shareholding equity partner, Etihad Airways. The launch of Air Serbia’s operations was marked by a series of attractive offers. “Our intentions as the national air company are clear from day one, and promotional campaigns are just a beginning of what we’ll be offering to our guests in the future,” Mr. Kondić said. Air Serbia currently operates a fleet of 15 aircraft. Another ten are expected in the upcoming period. With a strong fleet, Air Serbia certainly has a decisive role in the development of travel and tourism industry.

RAZVOJ INDUSTRIJE PUTOVANJA „Air Serbia“ leti na više od 30 evro-mediteranskih destinacija. Takođe, nudi destinacije na dugim i prekookeanskim letovima preko svojih partnera s kojim ostvaruje zajedničke letove i svog budućeg akcionara kompanije Etihad Airways. Početak poslovanja „Air Serbia“ je obeležila nizom atraktivnih ponuda. „Naše namere kao nacionalne aviokompanije jasne su od prvog dana, a promotivne kampanje su samo početak svega onoga što ćemo od sada redovno nuditi svojim gostima“, izjavio je gospodin Kondić. Kompanija trenutno raspolaže flotom od 15 vazduhoplova. Ubuduće se očekuje još deset novih aviona. S jakom flotom, „Air Serbia“ svakako ima presudnu ulogu u razvoju industrije putovanja i turizma. PREDVIĐANJA OKSFORD EKONOMIKSA „Air Serbia“ doneće 710.000.000 dolara nacionalnoj privredi u 2014. godini, zaključak je studije koju je izradio ugledni „Oksford Ekonomiks“. Ova studija predviđa otvaranje novih radnih mesta i porast turizma i trgovine. Direktan ekonomski uticaj na srpsku privredu biće povećanja BDP u iznosu od 190.000.000 miliona dolara u 2014, što će putem povećanih poslovnih mogućnosti, turizma, trgovine, investicija i globalne povezanosti, dostići 1,5 odsto BDP. Prognoze su odlične.

FORECAST OF OXFORD ECONOMICS Air Serbia will inject USD 710 million into the national economy in 2014, according to a study by the prominent Oxford Economics. This study forecasts new jobs and increase of tourism and trade. The direct economic impact on the Serbian economy will increase GDP in the amount of USD 190 million in 2014, which will increase the business opportunities, tourism, trade, investment and global connectivity, will reach 1.5% of GDP. Prognoses are excellent.

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

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TURKISH AIRLINES OTVARA SOBU ZA ODMOR NA AERODROMU ATATURK U ISTANBULU

o dolasku na Ataturk aerodrom u Istanbulu, sada možete da se osvežite u novootvorenoj sobi za odmor. Turkish Airlines je otvorio novu sobu za odmor na međunarodnom aerodromu Ataturk u Istanbulu i na taj način putnicima biznis klase pružio mogućnost da se osveže nakon letova. Soba je namenjena isključivo putnicima biznis klase ili elitnim članovima programa Miles&Smiles. Šta je to soba za odmor? Ideja je da soba za odmor izađe u susret potrebama gostiju koji stignu na internacionalni aerodrom Ataturk u Istanbulu. Samim tim što nudi širok spektar usluga i pogodnosti, uključujući bogat izbor hrane i pića, tuš kabine, uslugu peglanja, besplatan bežični internet, ova soba pruža luksuz i relaksaciju i omogućava gostima da se osećaju sveže nakon dugih letova. Soba za odmor je otvorena svakog dana od 05h ujutro do 01h posle ponoći.

TURKISH AIRLINES OPENS ARRIVAL LOUNGE AT THE İSTANBUL ATATÜRK AIRPORT

n arrival at the İstanbul Atatürk Airport, now you can get refreshed in the newly opened arrival lounge. Turkish Airlines has opened an arrival lounge, ‘İstanbul Arrival Lounge’, at the İstanbul Atatürk International Airport, offering its premium passengers the opportunity to freshen up on arrival, after their flights. The lounge is exclusive to Business Class travelers or Miles&Smiles Elite Plus members, arriving on a Turkish Airlines international flight. What is an arrival lounge? The concept of the arrival lounge is to meet the needs of guests arriving on international flights at the İstanbul Atatürk Airport. Offering a wide range of amenities and services, including rich food and beverage options, showers, ironing service, free Wi-Fi, etc., the facility ensures a luxurious and relaxed experience that helps guests to feel refreshed after their flights. The arrival lounge is open daily from 5:00 am to 13:00 pm. Lounge facilities • A wide range of food and beverage • Free Wi-Fi • A wide selection of leading papers and magazines • Showers • Charging station for electronic devices • Ironing service BelGuest

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

Usluge koje pruža soba za odmor • Veliki izbor hrane i pića • Besplatan bežični internet • Veliki izbor kvalitetnih novina i časopisa • Tuš kabine • Stanicu za punjenje eliktričnih uređaja • Usluge peglanja BelGuest

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TOURIST ORGANISATION OF BELGRADE

TURISTIČKA ORGANIZACIJA BEOGRADA

NEW OPTIONS OF BELGRADE CITY CARD In addition to the existing package of services, Belgrade City Card has as of this autumn included the tickets for Bus Plus public transportation and a local SIM card with free minutes. Following the example of tourist capitals of Europe and with a wish to better accommodate tourists, the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade launched Belgrade City Card early this summer. By purchasing this “tourist passport”, Belgrade guests have received a number of benefits: discounts on entrance tickets to museums, theatre plays, art galleries, sightseeing tours as well as discounts in coffee shops, restaurants and clubs. With the card, you also get a printed guide with a list of all service providers. Four months after its market launch, the package has been extended with additional benefits and is purchasable at the tourist information centre at Knez Mihailova 5 as well as at points of sale of Piraeus Bank, the strategic partner in this project. The price of the enriched package is RSD 1,500, whereas users can also purchase the basic version, priced at RSD 1,000. www.BelgradeCityCard.rs

NOVE MOGUĆNOSTI BELGRADE CITY CARD Uz dosadašnji paket usluga, Belgrade City Card od ove jeseni uključuje i Bus Plus karte za gradski prevoz i lokalnu SIM karticu sa besplatnim minutima. Po ugledu na turističke metropole Evrope i sa željom da što bolje ugosti turiste, Turistička organizacija Beograda je početkom leta lansirala Belgrade City Card. Kupovinom ovog „turističkog pasoša“ gosti Beograda dobili su brojne beneficije: popuste na ulaznice za muzeje, pozorišne predstave, galerije, ture razgledanja grada i popuste u kafeima, restoranima i klubovima. Uz karticu je štampan vodič sa listom svih davalaca usluga. Četiri meseca nakon pojavljivanja na tržištu, paket Belgrade City Card proširen je dodatnim pogodnostima i može se kupiti u turističkom informativnom centru u Knez Mihailovoj 5 i na prodajnim mestima Piraeus banke, koja je strateški partner na ovom projektu. Cena obogaćenog paketa iznosi 1.500 dinara, a korisnici mogu da kupe i osnovnu varijantu po ceni od 1.000 dinara. www.BelgradeCityCard.rs

“BELGRADE TALKS” – CITY ON MOBILE PHONE The recently launched mobile application prepared by Telekom Srbija and the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade , “Belgrade Talks”, has been complemented by new locations and stories with which the citizens and guests of Belgrade can hear many interesting things about our capital. “Belgrade Talks” is a free downloadable application where some interesting data on Belgrade Fortress, Church of Ascension of the Holy Virgin Mary in Zemun, Monument to the Unknown Soldier, and 15 other landmarks have been “stored”. The application contains a number of interesting facts about some of Belgrade’s well-known features: who was patient builder of Belgrade Fortress, what used to stand at the place of the Victor statue, which organisation used to gather in the building of the present City Library, how the first conference of the Non-Aligned Movement was marked on one square... The application “Belgrade Talks” has been supplemented by new routes “Old Zemun Walk”, “Through Belgrade Museums” and “A View from Avala”, as well as categories “Interesting Facts”, which offers anecdotes and little known facts about the historic buildings.

„BEOGRAD PRIČA“ – GRAD NA MOBILNOM TELEFONU Nedavno lansirana mobilna aplikacija „Beograd priča“ Telekoma Srbija i Turističke organizacije Beograda, upotpunjena je novim lokacijama i pričama uz koje Beograđani i gosti grada mogu da čuju mnoge zanimljivosti o našoj prestonici. „Beograd priča“ besplatna je aplikacija u kojoj su „pohranjene“ zanimljive pojedinosti o Beogradskoj tvrđavi, Bogorodičinoj crkvi u Zemunu, Spomeniku neznanom junaku i još 15 drugih znamenitosti. Aplikacija sadrži i zanimljivosti o poznatim obeležjima Beograda: ko je bio strpljivi graditelj Beogradske tvrđave, šta se nekada nalazilo na mestu statue Pobednik, koja organizacija se okupljala u zgradi današnje Biblioteke grada, kako je na jednom gradskom trgu obeležena prva konferencija Pokreta nesvrstanih... „Beograd priča“ dopunjen je novim rutama „Šetnja starim Zemunom“, „Kroz beogradske muzeje“ i „Pogled sa Avale“, te kategorijom „Zanimljivosti“, koja nudi anegdote i manje poznate činjenice o istorijskim građevinama i ličnostima koje su učestvovale u stvaranju bogate istorije Beograda.

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

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CLUSTER OF THE TOURIST INDUSTRY OF SAVSKI VENAC

3RD BALKAN SPA SUMMIT BALKAN SPAS - EUROPE’S NEW BRAND Organised by the Association of Serbian Spas, the 3rd Balkan Spa Summit was held in Bukovička spa in early September. In previous two conferences, held in Bulgaria and Turkey, foundations were laid for a joint project “Balkan Spas”. Under the slogan “We have a common history, let’s create a common future”, ninety participants from Turkey, Bulgaria, Greece, Romania, Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary, Latvia, Montenegro and Serbia gathered this year at the Izvor hotel. Lectures and presentations were aimed at forming a single regional tourism product. The concept of the curriculum of the future Balkan Spa Academy was also presented, to be applied in all member states. Evaluating on the results of the gathering, Vladan Vešković, Secretary of the Association of Spas, said: “We made our approaches to the unique concept of prevention and rehabilitation in our spas closer, and now we need to pack all that in an authentic tourist package that we offer to the world.” www.serbianspas.org

3. BALKAN SPA SAMIT BANJE BALKANA – NOVI BREND EVROPE U organizaciji Udruženja banja Srbije početkom septembra je u Bukovičkoj banji održan 3. Balkan Spa Samit. Na prethodna dva skupa, u Bugarskoj i Turskoj, postavljeni su temelji zajedničkog projekta „Banje Balkana“. Sa sloganom „Imamo zajedničku istoriju, hajde da kreiramo i zajedničku budućnost“ ove godine se u hotelu Izvor okupilo devedeset učesnika iz Turske, Bugarske, Grčke, Rumunije, Slovenije, Hrvatske, Mađarske, Latvije, Crne Gore i Srbije. Stručna predavanja i prezentacije bili su usmereni na oblikovanje jedinstvenog regionalnog turističkog proizvoda. Postavljen je i koncept nastavnog plana i programa buduće Balkan Spa Akademije, koji bi se primenjivao u svim zemljama članicama. Ocenjujući rezultate skupa, Vladan Vešković, sekretar Udruženja banja izjavio je: „Približili smo pristupe jedinstvenom konceptu prevencije i rehabilitacije u našim banjama, i sada sve to treba da upakujemo u jedan autentičan turistički paket koji ćemo ponuditi svetu.“ www.serbianspas.org

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

A WREATH OF GOOD SERVICE The municipality of Savski Venac, which is often referred to as the heart of Belgrade, established a cluster of tourism in order to strengthen and consolidate its tourism industry. It brings together organisations which in different ways contribute to the tourist offer. They include public institutions, hotels, museums, businesses of various profiles... “Our common strategy is to devise new offers which connect all our services in order to attract tourists... We decided to do it in a way facilitated by new technologies. We have defined five tours; we’ve made a promotional film on each of the tours and we’ve connected over twenty companies in the area of business and culture,” said Deputy Mayor Dušan Jevtić at the promotion of the cluster, held in September, in the home of King Petar I. The promotional films for the following tourist routes premiered: “Royal Route”, “Tito’s Route”, “Sports Route”, “Topčider Route” and “Heart of Belgrade” route. The cluster’s website visitsavskivenac.com was also promoted.

KLASTER TURISTIČKE PRIVREDE SAVSKOG VENCA VENAC DOBRE USLUGE Opština Savski venac, koja se često naziva srcem Beograda, kako bi ojačala i objedinila svoju turističku privredu, osnovala je Klaster turizma. On okuplja organizacije koje na različite načine doprinose turističkoj ponudi. Među njima su državne institucije, hoteli, muzeji, preduzeća raznih profila... „Naša zajednička strategija je da osmislimo nove sadržaje koji povezuju sve naše usluge kako bismo i tako privukli turiste... Odlučili smo da to uradimo na način koji omogućava nova tehnologija. Definisali smo pet turističkih tura, o kojima smo snimili po jedan reklamni film i povezali preko dvadeset subjekata iz oblasti privrede i kulture“ – izjavio je pomoćnik predsednika opštine Dušan Jevtić na promociji Klastera održanoj u septembru u kući kralja Petra I. Premijerno su prikazani promotivni spotovi turističkih ruta: „Kraljevska“, „Titova“, „Sportska“, „Topčiderska“ i ruta „Srce Beograda“. Promovisan je i sajt Klastera visitsavskivenac.com

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CROWNE PLAZA

CROWNE PLAZA A NEW LUXURIOUS HOTEL IN BELGRADE A renovated, luxury hotel which will operate within the hotel chain Crown Plaza Hotels & Resorts will open at the end of December 2013 in the building of once famous Belgrade hotel Intercontinental. Building on the tradition of the old hotel where 33 million guests stayed, including many big names in the political life, sports, art and show business scene, Crowne Plaza Belgrade announces excellent opportunities in all segments of the hotel’s offer: accommodation, conference and banquet space, spa and wellness centre, restaurants... The hotel is located in the heart of the business district, it is connected to the congress and cultural Sava Centre and is only five minutes away from the old city centre. With anticipation and curiosity, Belgrade is awaiting the opening of Crowne Plaza. The new hotel from the outside looks the same, but the interior has been thoroughly changed. “The space will be a surprise. It has been designed so to give a special effect of openness, width and reduced elegance,” Branka Petronijević, marketing coordinator of the Crowne Plaza, announced.

NOVI LUKSUZNI HOTEL BEOGRADA Krajem decembra u zdanju nekadašnjeg čuvenog beogradskog hotela InterContinental otvara se renovirani, luksuzni hotel, koji će poslovati u sastavu lanca hotela „Crowne Plaza Hotels&Resorts“. Nadovezujući se na tradiciju starog hotela, u kojem je boravilo 33. miliona gostiju, među njima i mnoga velika imena svetske političke, sportske, umetničke i šou biznis scene, „Crowne Plaza Belgrade“ najavljuje vrhunske sadržaje u svim segmentima ponude hotela: smeštaju, konferencijskom i banket prostoru, spa i welness centru, restoranima... Hotel se nalazi u središtu poslovnog dela grada, povezan je s kongresnim i kulturnim Centrom „Sava“ i samo je pet minuta udaljen od starog jezgra grada. Beograd s nestrpljenjem i radoznalošću očekuje otvaranje Crowne Plaze. Novi hotel spolja izgleda istovetno, ali je unutrašnjost temeljno izmenjena. „Prostor će biti iznenađenje. Projektovan je tako da daje specijalan efekat otvorenosti, širine i svedene elegancije“, najavljuje Branka Petronijević, marketing koordinator „Crowne Plaze“.

36TH INTERNATIONAL TOURISM FAIR MAKING WISHES COME TRUE The Tourism Fair will be held at the Belgrade Fairgrounds from 27 February to 2 March 2014. With the message “Making Wishes Come True”, the largest tourism organisations, travel agencies, tour operators, hotels, mountain centres, spas, lakes, cities, regions and countries from all continents will offer the visitors of the 36th International Tourism Fair packages for the upcoming tourist season. The partner country is Indonesia, the most indented island country in the world, the fourth most populated in the world, with a large tourist and cultural potential. This distant land will present its most important destinations – the islands of Bali and Java as well as its largest water park in the world.

36. međunarodni sajam turizma ISPUNJAVAMO ŽELJE Sajam turizma biće održan na Beogradskom sajmu od 27. februara do 2. marta 2014. godine. Porukom „Ispunjavamo želje“, najveće turističke organizacije, agencije, turoperatori, hoteli, planinski centri, banje, jezera, gradovi, regije i zemlje sa svih kontinenata posetiocima 36. međunarodnog sajma turizma ponudiće aranžmane za predstojeću turističku sezonu. Zemlja partner je Indonezija, najrazuđenija ostrvska država na svetu, četvrta po broju stanovnika na planeti, sa velikim turističkim i kulturnim potencijalom. Ta daleka zemlja predstaviće najznačajnije destinacije – ostrva Bali i Javu, ali i svoj akva-park, najveći na svetu.

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

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RECOGNITION ON THE NATIONAL AND INTERNATIONAL SCENE

British International School constantly evaluates its students’ knowledge and skills at international competitions. Moreover, it keeps close track of its high school graduates’ results at university entrance exams. Ivana Korica, a BIS graduate, has been admitted to the Faculty of Architecture ranked first! We talked about the students’ achievements on the national and international scene with Neil Howie, the school’s Deputy Principal.

ast school year, BIS students achieved a significant success, which has continued throughout this year. What would you set apart as a particular success? - “We are proud to announce that one of our students from the graduating class of 2013, Ivana, came out first on the ranking list of all students who took their entry exam at the Faculty of Architecture in Belgrade in September 2013. In June 2013, Ivana received a certificate from HRH Prince Aleksandar Karadjordjevic at a White Palace ceremony as the best BIS student in the 2013 generation. Congratulations Ivana! At the IGCSE level that our students take when they are 16 years old, congratulations to our top 3 students who between them achieved 24 Grade A’s (14 A*’s): Ema - 9 A’s (with 6 at A*), Predrag - 9 A’s (with 6 at A*), Sara - 6 A’s (with 2 at A*). This bodes well for Predrag and Sara who intend to become doctors. Well done.” Your students regularly take part in European and global online competitions. One of your

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students has recently received an award at an international art competition. - “Look and Learn is a London based children’s online art competition which students from more than 30 countries participate in each month. Our student Natasha had come second in the theme of “Horror”. She made her drawing in a combination of soft pastel and ‘polycolor’ pencils. She was thrilled to find a prize of £25 coming her way. Lower down the school all our students in Years 4 to 8 (grades 3-7) were, throughout September, united with students throughout the rest of the world and participated in online geography, languages and global citizenship educational games. They also engaged in activities, which encouraged peace and friendship, both in local communities and across the world. Special congratulations to a Year 7 student, Cameron. He was first in our school and third in the whole world. An amazing achievement! In addition, picked out of the hat, one of our Year 7 students, Ana, was selected as one of the eight students throughout the whole

world - and the only one from Europe – who won a trip to the United Nations in New York. This is a positive experience for Ana and all other students who participate in it”, according to the BIS Deputy Principal. The new school year has started off intensely in terms of extracurricular activities as well? “Even after a couple of months of this school year we have also seen our students attending several art exhibitions, off on field trips, celebrating Roald Dahl Day, National Poetry Day and other exciting educational activities in addition to their normal curriculum. In these difficult economic times it is a compliment to the educational standards and expectations at BIS that we continue to grow year upon year and with more great learning activities planned for this academic year we are sure that this will continue.” BelGuest

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PRIZNANJA NA DOMAĆOJ I MEĐUNARODNOJ SCENI

Britanska internacionalna škola znanje i umeća svojih učenika neprestano proverava na međunarodnim takmičenjima. Takođe, budno prati rezultate svršenih srednjoškolaca na prijemnim ispitima na fakultetima. Ivana Korica, maturantkinja BIS-a, upisla je Arhitekturu kao prvoplasirana na listi! O postignućima učenika na domaćoj i međunarodnoj sceni razgovarli smo s Neilom Howijem, zamenikom direktora škole.

rethodne školske godine učenici BIS-a ostvarili su značajne uspehe, što se nastavilo i u ovoj godini. Šta biste izdvojili kao poseban uspeh? - “Ponosni smo što možemo da se pohvalimo da je naša učenica Ivana, koja je maturirala u generaciji 2013. godine, zauzela prva mesto na rang listi na prijemnom ispitu na Arhitektonskom fakultetu u Beogradu. Na svečanosti koja je juna ove godine upriličena na Belom dvoru Ivani je, kao najboljoj učenici čitave generacije, priznanje uručio NJKV prestolonaslednik Aleksandar Karađorđević. Sve čestitke za Ivanu! Na nivou IGCSE ispita - to je međunarodni sertifikat srenjoškolskog obrazovanja - koji naši učenici polažu sa 16 godina, čestitamo našim najboljim učenicima koji su ukupno dobili 24 najviše ocene A (14 A*): Ema je dobila 9 A (sa 6 A*), Predrag 9 A (sa 6 A*), a Sara 6 A (sa 2 A*). Ovo je izuzetno značajno posebno za Predraga i Saru, koji nameravaju da postanu lekari. Svaka čast.” Vaši đaci redovno učestvuju na evropskim i svetskim online takmičenjima i konkursima. Jedna

vaša učenica nadavno je dobila nagradu na međunarodnom umetničkom konkursu. - “Gledaj i uči (Look and Learn) naziv je online umetničkog konkursa sa sedištem u Londonu, na kojem se svakog meseca nadmeću učenici iz preko trideset zemalja sveta. Naša Nataša je na konkursu sa temom “Horora” osvojila drugu nagradu. Crtež je uradila kombinacijom pastel i polikolor tehnike. Veoma se obradovala kada je saznala da je dobila i novčanu nagradu od 25 funti. Svi naši đaci u nižim razredima - od četirvtog do osmog - su tokom septembra “nastupali” na svetskoj sceni učestvujući na međunarodnim online takmičenjima iz geografije, jezika i obrazovnim igrama na temu građanskog vaspitanja. Takođe, učestvovali su i u različitim aktivnostima koje podstiču mir i prijateljstvo, kako u lokalnoj zajednici, tako i globalno. Posebno čestitamo našem Kameronu, učeniku sedmog razreda. On je osvojio prvo mesto u školi i treće mesto na planeti! To je izvanredan uspeh! Pored toga, “iz šešira” je izvučena naša učenica sedmog razreda Ana, kao jedna od osmoro učenika iz čitavog sveta

i jedina iz Evrope koja će posetiti Ujedinjene nacije i grad Njujork. Ovo je pozitivno iskustvo za Anu kao i za sve druge učenike koji su u tome učesvovali,” kaže zamenik direktora BIS-a. Nova školska godina počela je intenzivno i na planu vannastavnih aktivnosti? - “Iako je od početka školske godine prošlo tek nekoliko meseci, naši učenici su našli vremena da posete nekoliko umetničkih izložbi, bili na nekoliko dnevnih izleta, proslavili dan Roalda Dahla, Nacionalni dan poezije i, uz redovnu nastavu, učestvovali na drugim uzbudljivim vannastavnim aktivnostima. U ovim teškim ekonomskim prilikama to je kompliment našim obrazovanim kriterijumima i postavljenjim ciljevima. Britanska Internacionalna škola, iz godine u godinu, nastavlja da obogaćuje nastavni plan i program, a sa planiranim sadražajima za ovu akademsku godinu, sigurni smo da ćemo u tome istrajati.” BelGuest

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MODERN CAMPUS IN A CITY OASIS For the seventh generation of the PRIMA school graduates, as well as for all other students, starting from pre-school, this school year will be marked by moving into a new building and campus that by the amenities and ambience is not behind modern campuses across Europe. In the elite part of the city, the Senjakneighbourhood, in an oasis surrounded by forest, a spacious and modern school building is being equipped, with a series of accompanying amenities.

e spoke with Brigitte MacIntosh, the school’s principal, about this big step for the PRIMA school, which also confirms the school’s quality and suggests its expansion. The school is moving to a new location; that’s big news in the work of the PRIMA International School. I would like to start off by thanking all of our parents for their continuous support in entrusting their children’s education with PRIMA International School. As such, PRIMA International School has gained a reputation as a serious educational institution here in Belgrade and enquiries and enrollment numbers for this school year have increased significantly. In order to absorb the demand for further expansion, and to keep our promise and dedication of always improving your children’s education, PRIMA International School is moving to a new location. What can you tell us about the new location? The new school facility is situated on Dragana Mancea Street in Senjak, Belgrade. The new building suitably holds all of PRIMA International’s

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departments: Preschool, Reception, Primary and Secondary. It is a building which meets all the modern standards of education, providing our students with the most cutting edge methods of learning and development. In addition to meeting the growing need for space for students and staff, this new school will ensure a positive, safe, inclusive, and dynamic learning environment. How does the new location differ in terms of what PRIMA International School will now offer? The most notable difference is in space and our surroundings. The building itself is 2500 square meters and is in an area which comprises adequate play areas equipped with swings, teeter-totters, slides, sand boxes etc.; a track and field; a basketball court and a football court. Additionally, we made sure that our new location offers convenient access to the school premises for all types of motor vehicles, with an easily accessible pick up and drop off area. Why did PRIMA International School decide to move to a new location? As I mentioned earlier, our student enrollment

has been increasing significantly on a yearly basis. Thanks to the devoted families of PRIMA International School we can finally make this move happen. I would like to take this opportunity to thank all the parents of PRIMA International School in deed, as well as in word for the many years of trusting their children’s education to our dedicated and committed staff. When are you moving to your new location? The Board members of PRIMA International School are putting the finishing touches on our new school at the moment. The school will be moving over the October Break. The first day of school is Monday, 28 October,and we will be anxiously awaiting the arrival of our students and parents. When will the grand opening take place? We are planning a formal opening for all parents and guests early in November. Invitations will be sent out at that time. BelGuest

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SAVREMENI KAMPUS U GRADSKOJ OAZI Za sedmu generaciju maturanata PRIMA škole, kao i za sve druge đake, počevši od predškolskog uzrasta, ova školska godina biće obeležena preseljenjem u novu školsku zgradu i kampus koji po sadržajima i ambijentu ne zaostaje za savremenim kampusima širom Evrope. U elitnom delu grada, na Senjaku, u oazi okruženoj šumom, oprema se prostrana i moderna školska zgrada sa dosta pratećih sadržaja.

ovom velikom iskoraku PRIMA škole, koji istovremeno potvrđuje kvalitet i nagoveštava ekspanziju, razgovarali smo s Brigitte MacIntosh, direktorkom PRIMA škole. Škola se seli na novu lokaciju, to je velika novost u radu PRIMA međunarodne škole. Za ovaj veliki događaj u istoriji škole pre svega dugujemo zahvalnost roditeljima koji su nam poveravali obrazovanje svoje dece i u tome bili istrajni. Tako je škola u Beogradu stekla reputaciju ozbiljne obrazovne ustanove, pa se zanimanje za upis i broj upisanih učenika iz godine u godinu znatno povećavao. Kako bismo udovoljili sve većim zahtevima, i uz to ostali privrženi našem čvrstom profesionalnom načelu da kontinuirano unapređujemo obrazovni proces, doneli smo odluku da se preselimo na novu lokaciju. Šta možete da nam kažete o novoj školi? Novi školski kompleks nalazi se na Senjaku, u ulici Dragana Mancea. Zgrada je idealna jer objedinjuje sve

naše departmane: vrtić, predškolske razrede, osnovnu i srednju školu. Takođe, to je zgrada koja odgovara savremenim standardima obrazovanja i pruža našim đacima najsavremenija učila za obrazovanje i razvoj. Uz potrebu da se proširimo, novi školski kompleks će i nastavnicima i đacima pružiti pozitivan, bezbedan, inkluzivan i dinamičan ambijent za učenje. U čemu se najviše ogledaju buduće promene u radu PRIMA škole? Najvidljivije promene su pre svega u prostoru i okruženju. Nova školska zgrada ima površinu od 2.500 kvadratnih metara. Okružena je igralištima koja su opremljena ljuljaškama, klackalicama, toboganima, igralištem u pesku... Tu su i stadion sa atletskom stazom, košarkaški i fudbalski teren. Uz to, pobrinuli smo se da budemo lako dostupni za sve vrste automobila, te za dostavu stvari neophodnih za školu. Koji su to ključni razlozi koji su vas naveli da donesete odluku o preseljenju?

Kao što sam već pomenula, broj upisanih đaka u PRIMA školu se iz godine u godinu povećavao. Zahvaljujući lojalnosti roditelja i nastavnika, konačno smo mogli da napravimo taj iskorak. Želim da iskoristim ovu priliku da – i rečju i delom – zahvalim svim roditeljima što su našem samopregornom kolektivu godinama unazad poveravali obrazovanje svoje dece. Kada ste planirali preseljenje? Upravni odbor PRIMA škole trenutno dovršava poslednje detalje na adaptaciji našeg novog kompleksa. Preselićemo se u toku oktobarskog raspusta. Prvi dan posle raspusta je ponedeljak, 28. oktobar, i taj dan s nestrpljenjem očekujemo. Kada će škola biti svečano otvorena? Zvanično otvaranje za roditelje i goste planirali smo u prvoj polovini novembra. Već pripremamo pozivnice! BelGuest

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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ORIENTING TO A NEW SCHOOL AND NEW COUNTRY Since 1948 the International School of Belgrade (ISB) has distinguished itself as a world class educational institution. The 66th generation of students coming from 46 countries worldwide, including Serbia, enrolled at ISB this year! To successfully integrate students as well as new teachers, ISB provides several programs aimed at familiarizing them with their new environment. In addition to orienting to programs and procedures at the school, and providing social time to get to know peers, a great deal of attention is dedicated to the cultural heritage of Serbia and Belgrade.

he International School of Belgrade (ISB) opened its doors to begin our 66th year of operation on August 26, 2013. We welcomed 388 students representing 46 different nationalities, of whom 18% are US nationals, 24% are Serbians, and the remaining 58% are citizens of 44 other countries from around the world. We also welcomed over 70 members of our educational staff, who represent a dozen different nationalities. INTEGRATION OF NEWCOMERS Having such a rich diversity of cultures and languages naturally lends itself to developing attributes from the International Baccalaureate (IB)

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Learner Profile, such as open-mindedness, caring, communication skills, and genuine inquiry in learning from each other. On the other hand, many of our students whose parents work in diplomatic missions, NGOs, and the international business community are only with us for a relatively short period of time. Turn-over for some of our international teaching staff also occurs regularly. In order to integrate all new members of the ISB community as quickly and completely as possible, we have several orientation (also known as ‘induction’) programs. The first of these generally begins in February of the previous school year. Most of our foreign teach-

ers are hired at international recruiting fairs which take place in January and February in places like London and Boston. Once hired, our business office begins to work with them on logistical matters such as obtaining visas and arranging for shipments and flights. Our principals set up individual ‘mentors’ for each one, who are selected based on similarities of teaching assignments, nationalities, or family composition. One of our members of staff acts as “Orientation Coordinator” and begins to send relevant information on living in Belgrade and Serbia. This year, we are fortunate to only have five – which is a relatively small number of – new

foreign-hired teachers, as well as one local-hired expats and one host country national for expansion positions. These new members of our ISB community spent four days in early August with our Orientation Coordinator familiarizing themselves with places to shop, places to eat, how to ride buses, and the sights and sounds of all that Belgrade has to offer on a fine summer evening. Following this, another three days were spent with administrators on orienting to ISB itself, a process that was greatly facilitated this year due to the fact that all new staff had training and experience with the programs of the IB that ISB follows. Finally, the new staff joined the returning staff for a full week of orientation in preparing for the year. GETTING TO KNOW THE SCHOOL, BELGRADE & SERBIA Our orientation program for new students begins as soon as they are admitted, which can be at any point during the year. Our Admissions Coordinator makes sure all families receive extensive documentation to help them learn about the school, as well as life in Belgrade. Much of this information is also available directly from our website: http://www.isb.rs This year we began the year with 105 new students, a record number for ISB, and perhaps a positive sign for increasing foreign investment in Serbia. The students come to ISB with a wide

range of knowledge, skills, understanding, and dispositions. They enter with different levels of English language ability, and come from national systems in their home countries, including Serbia, as well as from other international schools from around the globe. Each new student and their families meet with the divisional principal for interviews that include orientation information. During the week before school starts all new students and their families are invited to a halfday of orientation on campus. Students meet with counselors and other teachers for a tour of the facilities and group-building exercises; while parents meet with administrators to gain program and logistical information. At the beginning of the year, each new student is also paired with a student-mentor, who are chosen by principals and school counselors based on matching nationalities, languages, and for their leadership qualities. Student-mentors act as initial guides for new students, answer questions, and help them develop friendships with others. During the third week of the school year all students in grades 5-12 participate in overnight trips within Serbia, which further help to integrate new students with returning ones, and help teachers and students get to know one another on a personal level. In addition to the orientation sessions for parents mentioned above, our Parent-Teacher-Student

Association (PTSA) actively works to help integrate new families into our community. One highly successful event for doing so is the “Back to School Picnic” which is held on our Upper School campus on the first Saturday following the opening of school and is a very popular and well-attended event. ISB – A COLLABORATIVE LEARNING COMMUNITY A goal for all members of our community is to celebrate the rich cultural heritage of our host nation, Serbia. In recognition of this goal, this year we concluded our full week of orientation for all staff by inviting the Abrašević Artistic Company dance troupe to our campus. The visit was arranged with help from officials of the Savski Venac municipal district, and featured 12 dancers with an accordion player. The Folk Dance Ensemble Abrašević dance troupe performed several Serbian folk dances, explained the origins and significance of their traditional clothing, and invited members of the ISB community to join them in learning some dance steps. The event capped a successful week of orientation for our staff, students, and parents, and served to exemplify the phrase from our Mission Statement: “ISB is a collaborative learning community...” BelGuest photo: ISB archive

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DYNAMIC SEASON OF SPENDING TIME TOGETHER

The beginning of the school year at the International Nursery School in Belgrade was marked by a series ofinteresting events: the September picnic for parents, children and teachers, spending time with children from Serbian kindergartens, live programmes as part of the Joy of Europe events, concerts performed by the Belgrade Philharmonic...

series of events began with September’s traditional picnic that was designed as an opportunity for parents, children and teachers to spend time together. Buffet was full of dishes prepared by their parents, in accordance with the culinary traditions of their respective countries. With play and a real picnic atmosphere, there was a selected programme in the park of the nursery school going on: performance of the folkloric ensemble Nikola Tesla, a quaint performance of a young magician,a performance of the opera singer Mihajlo Šljivić. ECO SCHOOL Aside from hanging out and getting to know each other, the picnic was an opportunity to promote socially responsible behaviour. “As recommended by the UNDP we started with a serious recycling project.At the picnic, we used special containers for paper, glass and plastic. Moreover, there are now containers in every classroom, so our children are taught from an early age how important this is for their future. The company Tetra Pack heard about our project and offered us cooperation, so it is very likely that soon we’ll

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become an eco school,” Mirjana Vidojević, director of the school, told BelGuest. FRIENDSHIP AND SOCIALISING “Every year we organise a series of programmes for the Children’s Week and the Joy of Europe. Having friendship and socialising always as themes, we first make ‘rotations’ within the school, which means that children visit other classrooms and meet with all the teachers. Afterwards, we invite children from Serbian state and private kindergartens to be our guests. That’s very interesting for both sides, because they rarely have the opportunity to socialise with each other. This year we had children from kindergartens Zmaj and Duško Radović as our guests. The youngsters have learned a few words of English and Serbian. Moreover, they learned songs in English and Serbian. Most importantly, children understand that their guests, although they speak a different language, are the same as those that want the same things.” FROM ROCK’N’ROLL TO VIVALDI The Joy of Europe this year was dedicated to Rock’n’Roll so INSB (International Nursery School

Belgrade) followed up on the main topic of the event. “We had Ivana Vukmirović playing the acoustic guitar and a real rock’n’roll band Stich&Glue. Our youngsters were listening to guitar versions of famous hits by Elvis Presley while the older enjoyed the rock and danced as if they were on areal concert,” our interlocutor retells. In October INSB plans to visit the Belgrade Philharmonic and the concert of Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons”. The concert will be for children of preschool age. “Last year we went to two concerts and we support the efforts of the Philharmonic to make the classical music closer to children. How they do it is really amazing! They have such an approach to children that one could really say they work in a kindergarten,” Mirjana Vidojević retells with thrill. The meeting season, however, does not end there. In November, the INSB will take the children to the Duško Radović Theatre to see the musical “Andersen’s Cooks” and in December there will be a Kids’ Corner organised as part of the Bazaar of the International Women’s Club. BelGuest

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DINAMIČNA SEZONA DRUŽENJA U Međunarodnom obdaništu Beograda početak školske godine obeležen je zanimljivim događajima: septembarski piknik za roditelje, decu i vaspitače, druženja s decom iz srpskih vrtića, živi programi u okviru manifestacije Radost Evrope, koncert u izvođenju Beogradske filharmonije...

očetak školske godine započeo je tradicionalnim septembarskim piknikom, koji je osmišljen kao prilika za međusobno upoznavanje roditelja, dece i vaspitača. Švedski sto bio je pun specijaliteta, koje su, u skladu s kulinarskim tradicijama svojih zemalja, pripremili roditelji. Uz igru i pravu izletničku atmosferu, u parku obdaništa odvijao se odabrani program: nastup folklornog ansambla „Nikola Tesla“, živopisna predstava mladog mađioničara, nastup operskog pevača Mihajla Šljivića. EKO ŠKOLA Uz druženje i međusobno upoznavanje, piknik je bio prilika za promociju društveno odgovornog ponašanja. „Po preporuci UNDP-ija započeli smo sa ozbiljnim projektom reciklaže. Na pikniku smo koristili posebne kontejnere za papir, staklo i plastiku. Takođe, u svakoj učionici postoje kontejneri, tako da naša deca odmalena uče koliko je to važno za njihovu budućnost. Za naš projekat saznala je firma ‘Tetra Pack’ i ponudila nam saradnju, tako da ćemo, po svemu sudeći, uskoro

postati eko škola“, kaže za BelGuest Mirjana Vidojević, direktorka škole. PRIJATELJSTVO I DRUŽENJE „Svake godine organizujemo dosta programa za Dečju nedelju i Radost Evrope. Pošto su teme uvek prijateljstvo i druženje, mi prvo u okviru škole pravimo ‘rotacije’, što znači da deca posećuju druge učionice i upoznaju se sa svim nastavnicima. Posle toga pozivamo u goste decu iz srpskih privatnih i državnih vrtića. To je zanimljivo i za jedne i za druge, pošto retko imaju priliku da se međusobno druže. Ove godine u gostima su nam bila deca iz vrtića ‘Zmaj’ i ‘Duško Radović’. Mališani su naučili koju reč engleskog i srpskog jezika. Takođe, naučili su pesmice na engleskom i srpskom jeziku. Najvažnije od svega je to što deca tako shvataju da su njihovi gosti iako govore različitim jezicima isti kao oni i da imaju iste želje.“ OD ROKENROLA DO VIVALDIJA Festival ‘Radost Evrope’ ove godine bio je posvećen rokenrolu, tako da se INSB (International Nursery

School Belgrade) nadovezala na noseću temu manifestacije. „U gostima su nam bili Ivana Vukmirović, koja je svirala na akustičnoj gitari, te pravi rokenrol bend ‘Stich&Glue’. Naši najmlađi su slušali na gitari obrade poznatih hitova Elvisa Prislija, a stariji su uživali u roku i igrali kao da su na pravom koncertu“, kaže naša sagovornica. U toku oktobra INSB planira posetu Beogradskoj filharmoniji, koja izvodi Vivaldijeva „Četiri godišnja doba“. Koncert je namenjen deci predškolskog uzrasta. „U toku prošle godine dva puta smo bili na koncertima i podržavamo napore Filharmonije da klasičnu muziku približi najmlađima. Način na koji oni to rade zaista je neverovatan! Imaju takav pristup deci da bi slobodno mogli da rade u vrtiću“, s oduševljenjem priča Mirjana Vidojević. Sezona druženja time se ne završava. U novembra INSB vodi s decu u pozorište ‘Duško Radović’ na mjuzikl „Andersenovi kuvari“, a u decembru organizuje ‘Kid’s corner’ u okviru Bazara Međunarodnog kluba žena. BelGuest

ACADEMIC SOCIETY “NEW BELGRADE” OF THE POST-SECONDARY SCHOOL OF TOURISM

PROFESSOR WHO BRINGS JOY The night slowly leaves the skyscrapers of New Belgrade, so let’s leave the crowded intersections, glowing traffic lights and the never-ending rush outside and let’s enjoy. For those visitors who’ll have the opportunity to see and hear the Academic Society “New Belgrade” of the Post-Secondary School of Tourism for the first time, we will say that we were founded back in 1974 when Vojin Jovanović, better known as Uncle Voja, gathered the children who were playing in front of the building and held the first rehearsal. For four decades, he touched thousands of young people with song and dance. Some of them will go on stage...

hese words marked the beginning of the concert “Trails of Tradition”, with which the Academic Society “New Belgrade” of the PostSecondary School of Tourism marked its 40th anniversary on 12 November. All ensembles participated in the programme – beginners, prep, junior and senior children’s ensemble, the first and second folk dance ensemble, younger and older seniors, two groups of singers, accompanied by the folk orchestra. They incited an outburst of applause with their performance, the choreography of dances from Serbia and other countries, as well as the emotions they showed on the stage of the Sava Centre. The glorious moment was when all 730 artists invited their art director to join them on stage, chanting, “Voja, we love you”. The audience was brought to tears. The whole hall stood up, including the ambassadors of the priests, we cannot describe in words the eruption of emotions. We spoke with Professor Vojin Jovanović, choreographer, art director and founder of the Academic Society “New Belgrade”. What can be a greater award than being adored and respected by children? - I am happy when I see the smiling faces and I’m glad that they marked my life story. Over 15,000 children passed through the Society during all these years. I wanted to have the traditional art live on the New Belgrade asphalt and to have young people develop in a healthy environment, socialise with each other and to learn something. Numerous awards and rating that our Society has show that nothing is difficult when it comes to love, Vojin Jovanović told BelGuest. “You

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need to respect children – they are bright young people. They appreciate when you know how to make their time useful; they appreciate attention and good intentions. I hear them say, ‘Voja taught us to sing and dance, and above all, he taught us to be good people. We sometimes skipped school, but we never missed rehearsals,’ our collocutor joyfully tells.” It is not usual that an artistic society is part of an educational institution? - This is a unique example in Serbia of a school of vocational studies to have its cultural and artistic society, and our cooperation has proved to be very good. The Post-Secondary School of Tourism is one of the leaders in the education of experts in the field of tourism; it has a long tradition – it was founded in 1967. The school has won numerous awards for its contribution to the economy and science in the country and abroad. It attaches a great attention to culture and our ensembles are engaged on the events that the school organises. Currently, we have 530 members. The school is well known for its work with embassies. As the Academic Society of the Post-Secondary School of Tourism, we try to represent our country to tourists everywhere where we perform, including at concerts organised by tourist agencies for the visitors of Belgrade in the best possible way – smilingly, dancing and singing. Text and photgraphs: Rozana Sazdić

AKADEMSKO DRUŠTVO „NOVI BEOGRAD“ VISOKE TURISTIČKE ŠKOLE

UČITELJ RADOSTI Noć polako osvaja oblakodere Novog Beograda i hajde da prepune raskrsnice, usijane semafore i večitu žurbu ostavimo napolju i uživamo. Za one posetioce koji su prvi put u prilici da vide i čuju Akademsko društvo „Novi Beograd“ Visoke turističke škole reći ćemo da smo osnovani davne 1974. godine, kada je Vojin Jovanović, poznatiji kao čika Voja, okupio decu koja su se igrala ispred zgrada i održao prvu probu. Za četiri decenije dotakao je pesmom i igrom hiljade mladih. Deo njih će izaći na pozornicu...

vim rečima počeo je koncert „Na tragu tradicije“ kojim je Akademsko društvo „Novi Beograd“ Visoke turističke škole 12. novembra obeležilo 40 godina rada. U programu su učestvovali svi ansambli – početni, pripremni, mlađi i stariji dečji, prvi i drugi ansambl narodnih igara, mlađi i stariji veterani, dve grupe pevača, a sve je pratio njihov Narodni orkestar. Izazvali su salve aplauza nastupom, koreografijama igara iz Srbije i iz drugih zemalja, te emocijom kojom su sve to preneli na scenu Centra „Sava“. Veličanstveni trenutak bio je kada je svih 730 izvođača pozvalo umetničkog direktora da im se pridruži na pozornici, skandirajući: Vojo, mi te volimo! Publici su zasuzile oči. Ustala je cela sala, ambasadori i sveštenstvo, ne može se rečima opisati ta erupcija emocija. Razgovarali smo s profesorom Vojinom Jovanovićem, koregrafom, umetničkim direktorom i osnivačem Akademskog društva „Novi Beograd“. Koje priznanje može da bude veće od obožavanja i poštovanja dece? - Srećan sam kada vidim nasmejana lica i drago mi je što je njima obeležena moja životna priča. Više od 15. 000 dece prošlo je kroz Društvo tokom svih ovih godina. Želeo sam da tradicionalna umetnost živi i na novobeogradskom asfaltu i da se mladi razvijaju u zdravoj sredini, da se druže i da nešto nauče. Brojna priznanja i rejting koje ima naše društvo dokazuju da ništa nije teško

POST-SECONDARY SCHOOL OF TOURISM NEW BELGRADE VISOKA TURISTIČKA ŠKOLA NOVI BEOGRAD Vojin Jovanović www.visokaturisticka.edu.rs

kada se radi sa ljubavlju – kaže za BelGuest Vojin Jovanović. –Decu morate poštovati – to su pametni mladi ljudi. Cene kada znate da korisno upotrebite njihovo vreme, cene pažnju i dobre namere. Čujem da kažu: „Voja nas je naučio da pevamo i igramo, a pre svega da budemo ljudi. Školu smo nekad i propuštali, a probe nikad, s radošću priča naš sagovornik. Nije uobičajeno da umetničko društvo bude deo obrazovne ustanove. - Da jedna škola strukovnih studija ima kulturno-umetničko društvo jedinstven je primer u Srbiji, a naša saradnja se pokazala kao veoma dobra. Visoka turistička škola jedan je od lidera u obrazovanju stručnjaka iz oblasti turizma, ima tradiciju (osnovana 1967. godine), nosilac je brojnih priznanja za doprinos privredi i nauci u zemlji i inostranstvu. Veliku pažnju posvećuje kulturi, a na događajima koje organizuje nastupaju naši ansambli. U ovom trenutku imamo 530 članova. Škola je poznata i po saradnji sa ambasadama. Mi kao akademsko društvo Visoke turističke škole trudimo se da svuda, kao i na koncertima koje organizuju turističke agencije za posetioce Beograda, predstavimo našu zemlju turistima na najlepši način – osmehom, igrom i pesmom. Tekst i fotografije Rozana Sazdić

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

C U L T U R E /K U L T U R A POZORIŠTA – THEATERS ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342 www.atelje212.co.rs BEOGRADSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Mileševska 64a, tel. 2835-111, 2837-000 www.bdp.rs BETON HALA TEATAR, Kraljice Natalije 3, tel.2684-588 BITEF TEATAR, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 3220-608 www.bitef.rs DADOV, Desanke Maksimović 6/I, tel. 3243-643 www.dadov.rs DAH TEATAR, Marulićeva 8, tel. 2441-680 www.dahteatarcentar.com ISTER TEATAR, Karlovačka 26, Zemun, tel. 74498 07 JUGOSLOVENSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 3061-900, 3061-957 www.jdp.co.rs

KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-076 www.kpgtyu.org OPERA I TEATAR MADLENIANUM, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-2533 www.madlenianum.rs NARODNO POZORIŠTE - NATIONAL THEATER (Opera, Balet, Drama / Opera, Ballet, Theatre Plays) Francuska 3, tel. 3281-333 www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTE NA TERAZIJAMA, Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel.330-2650 www.pozoristeterazije.com SLAVIJA TEATAR, Svetog Save 16, tel. 2436-995 TEATAR BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 2644-447, www.jdp.co.rs TEATAR KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2421-314 ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-664 www.zvezdara Večernja scena Radović, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs

DEČJA POZORIŠTA – CHILDRENS’ THEATERS BOŠKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 2632-855 www.buha-theater.com MALO POZORIŠTE DUŠKO RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTANCE PUŽ, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 2438-036 POZORIŠTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karađorđeva 9, Zemun tel. 2691-715 www.ptpinokio.com TEATAR RODA, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 Pozoriste “Pan teatar”, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 298, www.panteatar.rs

KULTURNI CENTRI - CULTURAL CENTERS AMERIČKI KUTAK/AMERICAN CORNER, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-7694, www.americancorners-sam.net

AUSTRIJSKI KULTURNI FORUM/ Österreichischen Kulturforums, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3031-956, www.aussenministerium.at/belgradkf BRITANSKI SAVET/ BRITISH COUNCIL, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800, www.britishcouncil.org/serbia CENTAR ZA KULTURNU DEKONTAMINACIJU, Birčaninova 21, tel. 3610-270, www.czkd.rs DEČIJI KULTURNI CENTAR, Takovska 8, tel. 342-2011, fax. 342-2314, www.dkcb.rs/ DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442, www.dksg.rs DOM OMLADINE BEOGRADA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453, www.domomladine.org DOM VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19 tel. 324-12-58, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs FRANCUSKI INSTITUT U SRBIJI/ Institut français de Serbie , Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-654,

www.institutfrancais.rs INSTITUT GETE /GOETHE INSTITUT, Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 303-18-10, www.goethe.de/belgrad

GRAD - Evropski centar za kulturu i debatu, Braće Krsmanović 4, tel. 3282- 370, www.gradbeograd.eu

GUARNERIUS – centar lepih umetnosti, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 3346-807, www.guarnerius.rs

HELENSKI FOND ZA KULTURU/HELLENIC FOUNDATION FOR CULTURE, Kneza Miloša 14, tel.3625-206, www.hfc-belgrade.com

INSTITUT SERVANTES/ Instituto Cervantes de Belgrado, Čika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034-182, www.belgrado.cervantes.es

INSTITUT KONFUČIJE, Studentski trg 3, tel. 3284-595, www.konfucije.fil.bg.ac.rs ITALIJANSKI INSTITUT ZA KULTURU/ Istituto Italiano di Cultura di Belgrado, Kneza Miloša 56, tel. 3629-435, www.iicbelgrado.esteri.it

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

KANADSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ CANADIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 KULTURNI CENTAR BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 2621-469/ www.kcb.org.rs KULTURNI CENTAR IRANA, Neznanog junaka 32, tel. 3672 564 , www.iran.rs RUSKI DOM/ Русский дом, Kraljice Natalije 33, tel. 2642-178, www.ruskidom.rs REX, Jevrejska 16, tel. 3284-534, www.rex.b92.net STUDENTSKI KULTURNI CENTAR, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360-2014, www.skc.org.rs ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARACA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 2630-550, www.kolarac.rs

KONCERTNE DVORANE - CONCERT HALLS ATRIJUM NARODNOG MUZEJA, Trg republike 1a, tel. 330-6000, BEOGRADSKA FILHARMONIJA, Studentski trg 11, tel. 328-2977, www.bgf.co.rs DOM VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 324-0242, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs DVORANA DOMA SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849, www.domsindikata.com KOMBANK ARENA, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, tel. 0900 110011, www.kombankarena.rs SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6000 , www.savacentar.net ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 262-6591, www.kolarac.co.rs

MUZEJI – MUSEUMS KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - CULTURAL & HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ / ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM, Studentski trg 13, tel. 3281-888, www. etnografskimuzej.rs

KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE / The Residence of Princess Ljubica, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel.2638-264, www.mgb.org.rs

KONAK KNEZA MILOŠA / THE Residence OF PRINCE MILOS, Rakovički put 2, tel.2660-422, www.imus.org.rs

KUĆA ĐURE JAKŠIĆA / DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 3230-302 MANAKOVA KUĆA / MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 303- 6114 KULA NEBOJŠA / Nebojsa Tower, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 11, tel. 26 20 685 , www.kulanebojsa.rs

MUZEJ SRPSKE PRAVOSLAVNE CRKVE / SERBIAN ORTODOX CHURCH MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 328- 2527 NARODNI MUZEJ / NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel 3306-048, www.narodnimuzej.rs

PEDAGOŠKI MUZEJ / MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel.2627-538, www.pedagoskimuzej.org.rs

Vinča Arheološko nalazište / Archaeological Site Vinča, Belo brdo 17, Vinča, tel. 060/500-51-87, www.mgb.org.rs VUKOV I DOSITEJEV MUZEJ / VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 2625-161

ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ SRBIJE / SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Đure Jakšića 9, tel. 328-7241, www.imus.org.rs

JEVREJSKI ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ / JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 2622-634, www.jimbeograd.org

MUZEJ ISTORIJE JUGOSLAVIJE /YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Botićeva 6, tel. 3671-485, www.mij.rs

MUZEJ BANJIČKOG LOGORA / The Museum of the Banjica Concentration Camp, Pavla Jurišića Šturma 33, tel. 3674-877, www.mgb.org.rs VOJNI MUZEJ / MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 3343-441, www.muzej.mod.gov.rs IZLOŽBENA POSTAVKA NARODNE BANKE SRBIJE / NATIONAL BANK OF SERBIA NUMISMATIC EXIBITION, Kralja Petra 12, tel.3027-100, www.nbs.rs MEMORIJALNI MUZEJI - MEMORIAL MUSEUMS MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ JOVANA CVIJIĆA / The Memorial Museum of Jovan Cvijić, Jelene Ćetković 5, tel. 3223-126, www.mgb.org.rs MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE / NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886, www.tesla-museum.org

CULTURE/KULTURA SPOMEN muzej Ive Andrića / The Memorial Museum of Ivo Andrić, Andrićev venac 8, tel. 323-8397, www.mgb.org.rs Muzej Paje Jovanovića / The Museum of Paja Jovanović, Kralja Milana 21/IV, tel. 3340-176, www.mgb.org.rs Zbirka ikona Sekulić / The Collection of Icons Sekulić, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel 3282-504, www.mgb.org.rs ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJI - CITY MUSEUMS MUZEJ GRADA BEOGRADA / The Belgrade City Museum, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel. 2630-825, www.mgb.org.rs TEHNIČKI MUZEJI - TEHNICAL MUSEUMS MUZEJ AUTOMOBILA /THE automobile MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 30, tel. 3034-625, www.automuseumbgd.com

MUZEJ JUGOSLOVENSKOG VAZDUHOPLOVSTVA /MUSEUM OF YUGOSLAV AERONAUTICS, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla,tel. 2670-992, www.muzejvazduhoplovstva.org. MUZEJ NAUKE I TEHNIKE / MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Skender Begova 51, tel. 303- 7850, www.muzejnt.rs

PTT MUZEJ / POST MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3064-170, www.pttmuzej.rs ŽELEZNIČKI MUZEJ / RAILWAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334, www.zeleznicesrbije.com

PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJI - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJ - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Njegoševa 51, tel. 344-2147, www.nhmbeo.rs

GALERIJA PROGRES, Knez Mihailova 22, www.progres.rs GALERIJA STARA KAPETANIJA, Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 8 GALERIJA SKC, Kralja Milana 48, www.skc.org.rs GALERIJA SULUJ, Terazije 26/II, www.galerijasuluj.org.rs GALERIJA 73, Požeška 83 a, www.galerija73.com GALERIJA ULUS, Knez Mihailova 37, www.ulus.org.rs GALERIJA DOMA VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs GALERIJA ZADUŽBINE ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski Trg 5, www.kolarac.co.rs JUGOSLOVENSKA GALERIJA UMETNIČKIH DELA, Andrićev venac 4, Dositejeva 1 OZON, Andrićev venac 12, www.o3one.rs SALON MUZEJA SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI, Pariska 14, www.msub.org.rs UMETNIČKI PAVILJON CVIJETA ZUZORIĆ, Mali Kalemegdan, www.ulus.org.rs VELIKA GALERIJA DK STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, www.dksg.rs

BIBLIOTEKE - LIBRARIES BIBLIOTEKA GRADA BEOGRADA / BELGRADE CITY LIBRARY, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. 202-4024, www.bgb.org.rs

NARODNA BIBLIOTEKA SRBIJE / SERBIAN NATIONAL LIBRARY, Skerlićeva 1, tel. 2451-242 www.nb.rs

UNIVERZITETSKA BIBLIOTEKA „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“- UNIVERSITY LIBRARY „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. 3370-509, www.unilib.bg.ac.rs

GALERIJA PRIRODNJAČKOG MUZEJA / GALLERY OF THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Mali Kalemegdan 5, tel. 3284-317, www.nhmbeo.rs MUZEJ SRPSKE MEDICINE / MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Džordža Vašingtona 19, tel. 3245-149, www.sld.org.rs/sr/muzej

UMETNIČKI MUZEJI - ART MUSEUMS MUZEJ AFRIČKE UMETNOSTI / MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART, Andre Nikolića 14, tel. 2651-654,

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES/ TURISTIČKI INFORMATIVNI CENTRI

museumofafricanart.org

MUZEJ POZORIŠNE UMETNOSTI /THEATER MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 19, tel. 2628-920, www.mpus.org.rs

MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI - LEGAT ČOLAKOVIČ / MUSEUM OF TEMPORARY ART- COLAKOVIC LEGACY, Drajzerov prolaz 2, tel. 3676-093,

5 Knez Mihailova Street/ Knez Mihailova 5 tel. +381 11 26 35 622, +381 11 26 35 343

(Weekdays & Saturday from 9am to 9pm, Sundays 10am-3pm)

www.msub.org.rs

MUZEJ PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI / Museum of Applied Art, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel. 2626-494, www.mpu.org.rs

JUGOSLOVENSKA KINOTEKA - YUGOSLAV FILM ARCHIVE, Kosovska 11,

Airport Nikola Tesla /Aerodrom Nikola Tesla tel. +381 11 20 97 828 (every day from 9am -9.30pm)

tel. 3248-250 www.kinoteka.org.rs

MUZEJ ZEPTER – ZEPTER MUSEUM, Knez Mihailova 42, tel. 011/328-3339, www.zeptermuseum.rs

IZLOŽBENE GALERIJE - EXHIBITION GALLERIES GALERIJA SRPSKE AKADEMIJE NAUKA I UMETNOSTI - GALLERY OF SERBIAN ACADEMY OF ARTS & SCIENCES,Knez Mihailova 35, www.sanu.ac.rs GALERIJA BEOGRAD, Kosančićev venac 19 , www.galerijabeograd.org GALERIJA DOMA OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, www.domomladine.org GALERIJA FAKULTETA LIKOVNIH UMETNOSTI, Pariska 16, www.flu.bg.ac.rs GALERIJA FRESAKA / FRESCO GALLERY, Cara Uroša 20, www.narodnimuzej.rs GALERIJA GRAFIČKOG KOLEKTIVA, Obilićev venac 27, www. grafickikolektiv.org GALERIJA HAOS, Dositejeva 3, www.galleryhaos.com GALERIJA KULTURNOG CENTRA BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6, www.kcb.org.rs/ GALERIJA-LEGAT PETRA DOBROVIĆA, Kralja Petra 36/IV, www.msub.org.rs GALERIJA NAUKE I TEHNIKE SANU / SANU GALLERY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Đure Jakšića 2, www.sanu.ac.rs GALERIJA NEW MOMENT, Hilandarska 14, www.newmoment.com/beograd

Main Railway Station /Glavna železnička stanica tel. +381 11 36 12 732 (Weekdays & Saturday 7am-1.30pm, Sundays closed)

Zemun Tourist Centre /Turistički centar Zemun Magistratski trg 1 tel. +381 11 37 78 535

(Mondays through Fridays from 9am to 3pm, Saturdays from 9am to 1pm)

Tourist Organization of Serbia / Turistička Organizacije Srbije Info Centre, Čika Ljubina 8/I tel. + 381 11 65 57 127

(Mondays through Saturdays from 9am to 9pm)

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

BELGRADE RESTAURANTS AND HOTELS/BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI I HOTELI *skraćenica / abbriviaton: rv/wh - radno vreme / working hours ** skraćenica / abbriviation: nat – uglavnom nacionalna kuhinja/ mainly national cuisine

RESTORANI U SKADARLIJI – RESTAURANTS IN SKADARLIJA (traditional live music) DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel. 323-9079 DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885 IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422 ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 322-8750 TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501 ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834

INTERNACIONALNA I NACIONALNA KUHINJAINTERNATIONAL & NATIONAL CUISINE BUSSINES CLUB „JELENA”, Generala Šturma 1, tel. 3066509 CANTINA DE FRIDA, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 2181107 DAKA, Beograd, Hercegovačka 10, tel. 219-7423 DEVETKA, Kneza Višeslava 25, tel. 3559-783 DIVA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202 822 ĐORĐE, Hadži Milentijeva 47 (ulaz iz Moravske 10) tel. 3441-422 EL TORO, Masarikova 5, tel. 3612-429 FRANŠ, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. 2641-944 GINGER, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202- 822 IGUANA, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 328-3749 KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11e, Zemun, tel. 307-6866 KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931 KOD KAPETANA, Kej oslobođenja 43, Zemun, tel. 2103-950 KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972 KOVAČ, Bulevar oslobodjenja 221, tel. 2462-343 KUMBARA, General Ždanova 36, tel. 3906-877 LORENZO&KAKALAMBA, Cvijićeva 110, tel. 3285-351 MADERA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 3231-332 METROPOLITAN GRILL, Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1140 NA ĆOŠKU, Beogradska 37, tel. 3236-470 ORAČ, Makenzijeva 81, tel. 2440-507 PIRE SLOW FOOD, Cara Lazara 11, tel. 2634-994 PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 PROMAYA, Karađorđeva 8a, tel. 2621-494 PUBLIC DINE&WINE, Kosančićev venac 29, tel.328-3680 RESTORAN 27, Istarska 27, tel. 2651-831 RUBIN, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 3510-987 SOKAČE, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića bb, tel. 2625- 452 SRPSKA KAFANA, Svetogorska 25, tel. 3247-197 STARA CARINARNICA, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel.2616-930 STARA HERCEGOVINA, Carigradska 36, tel. 324-5856 TABOR, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 2412-464 TALAS, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 VUK, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 ZAPLET, Kajmakčalanska 2, tel.240-4142 ZLATAR, Preradovićeva 9a, tel. 2754-651 (live music) ZLATNIK, Kej oslobođenja35, Zemun, tel. 210- 5565 ZNAK PITANJA „?”, Kralja Petra 16, tel. 2635-421

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

RIBLJI RESTORANI - FISH RESTAURANTS KLUB TAVERNA, Zmaj Jovina 9, tel. 065/633- 5353 LA BARCA, Vase Pelagica 48, tel. 369-30-30 PORTO MALTESE, Ušće bb, tel. 2145-727 REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. 2611-625 (live music) ŠARAN**, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel. 2618-235 (live music)

SPECIJALIZOVANI RESTORANI – SPECIALTIES RESTAURANTS AMPHORA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2699-789 mediterranean cuisine BALSAC, Strahinjića bana 13, tel.3285-906 french cuisine BELLA ITALIJA “KOD GARIĆA”, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 95, tel. 311-3778 italian cuisine BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun, tel.2198-162 italian cuisine BURITO BAR, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6546 mexican cuisine BYBLOS, Nebojšina 6, tel. tel. 244 19 38, lebanon cuisine CASA, Makenzijeva 24, tel. 3860-866 IKKI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 2184-183 japanese cuisine INDIAN PALACE, Ljubička 1b, tel. 3446-235 indian cuisine IPANEMA, Strahinjića bana 68, tel. 3283-069 italian cuisine FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 italian cuisine GASTON, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel: 32-85-811, italiana cusine GUŠTI MORA, Radnička 27, tel. 355-1268 sea food LAVA BAR, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. 3610-525 mediterranean cuisine MAMMA MIA, Resavska 70, tel. 2687-683 italian cuisine PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 italian cuisine PEKING, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 2181-931chinese cuisine PIETRO DELL`ORO, Trnska 2, tel.3447-700 italian cuisine TRAG, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, tel. 3227-495 italian cuisine TRAMONTANA, Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. 3542-237 sea food VILLA CLUB 69, Krunska 69, tel. 3442-656 french&italian cuisine ZAPATA, Vojvode Bogdana 13, tel. 3809-207 mexican cuisine

RESTORANI NA VODI - BOAT RESTAURANTS ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, tel.319-6369 , tel.063/7784-760 AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 ČARDA STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666, 3117-444 DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467 KOD GOCE I RENATA, Pančevački put bb, tel.2710-401 KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311-7444 OTARD, Zemunski kej bb, tel.. 3195-905 KOGO, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 ŽABAR KLUB, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-226

HOTELI – HOTELS HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1234 METROPOL PALACE BELGRADE, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69 , tel. 3333-100 PRESIDENT, SC Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 SQUARE NINE HOTEL BELGRADE, Studenstki trg 9, tel. 3333 500 ZLATNIK, Dobanovačka 95, tel. 3167-511 fax 3167-235

BELGRADE RESTAURANTS AND HOTEL /BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI I HOTELI

Crowne Palaza belgrade*, Vladimira Popovica 10, *Booking from January 13, 2014 onwards BAH – BEOGRAD ART HOTEL,Knez Mihailova 27 tel. 3312-000 BEST WESTERN Hotel M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 3095-505 BEST WESTERN Hotel Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 3554-255 CRYSTAL, Internacionalnih brigada 9 tel. 715-1000 EVROPA, Sremska 1, tel. 3626-017 IN HOTEL, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310-5300 FALKENSTEINER HOTEL BELGRADE, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina, tel. 453 2325 LIFE DESIGN, Balkanska 18, tel. 3626-090 MAJESTIC, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 3285-777 fax 3284-995 MOSKVA, Balkanska 1, tel. 2686-255 MR.PRESIDENT DESIGN HOTEL, Karađorđeva 75, tel.361-2050 NEVSKI , Venizelusova 24a, tel. 322-9722 PALACE, Topličin venac 23, tel. 2185-585, 2637-222 PRAG - POSLOVNI HOTEL, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 321-4444 PRESTIGE, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. 3057-465 QUEEN ASTORIA, Milovana Milovanovića 1a, tel. 2645-422 SRBIJA GARNI HOTEL, Brankova 13-15, tel: 2633-323 SLAVIJA LUX, Svetog Save 2, tel. 2450-842 TOWNHOUSE 27, Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. 2022-900 ZEDER, Vojni put II 164e, Zemun, tel. 3141-400, 3149-808 ZIRA, Ruzveltova 35, tel. 3314-800

BALKAN GARNI, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 BELGRADE CITY HOTEL, Savski trg 7, Beograd, tel. 761 70 23 ELEGANCE, Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel.2075-000 EXCELSIOR, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 3231-381 KASINA, Terazije 25, tel. 3235-574 fax 3238-257 LE PETIT PIAF, Skadarska 34, tel. 3035-858 NACIONAL, Autoput 5, tel. 2601-156 ORAŠAC, Luke Vojvodića 25N, tel. 3055-822 PARK, Njegoševa 4, tel. 3640-385 REX, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361-1862 ROYAL, Kralja Petra 56, tel. 2626-426 SKALA, Zemun, Bežanijska 3, tel. 196-605, 3075-032 SLODES, Borska 92, tel. 3055-518 SRBIJA, Ustanička 127c, tel. 289-0404 TULIP INN , Palmira Toljatija 9 , tel. 2259-813 UNION, Kosovska 11, tel.3248-022 BEOGRAD, Balkanska 52, tel. 2645-361 BRISTOL, Karađorđeva 50, Belgrade, tel. 2631-895 LAV, Cara Dušana 240, Zemun, tel. 3163-289 N HOTEL, Bilećka 57, tel. 3972-183 OASIS, Novosadski autoput 75, Zemun, tel. 3166 302 SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-842 TAŠ, Beogradska 71, tel. 3243-507 TRIM, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel 3540-670

INFORMATIONS/OPŠTE INFORMACIJE HOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA HOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY BABE ***, Sopot, M.Milinkovića 3, tel.8260-078 OBRENOVAC**, Obrenovac, Miloša Obrenovića 189, tel. 872-1039 RADMILOVAC **, Smederevski put bb, tel. ) 341 61 40, SUČEVIĆ M ***, Dugo polje 1a, Avalski put, tel. 3907-777 fax. 3907-771

PUTOVANJA - TRAVEL Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla” – Airport Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-4444 www.beg.aero Autobuska stanica Lasta- Bus Station Lasta, Železnička 2, tel. 2625-740 Beogradska autobuska stanica - Belgrade Bus Station, Železnička 4, tel. 2636-299, 2627-146 www.bas.co.rs

JAT autobuski terminal - JAT Bus Terminal, Hotel Slavija Lux, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-584 www.jat.com

Međunarodni železnički saobraćaj - International railway transport, tel. 360-2899 Međunarodni autobuski saobraćaj- International bus transport, tel. 2622-526, 2627-146

Saobraćajno preduzeće Lasta – Transport Company Lasta, Niški put 4, tel. 2882-740 www.lasta.co.rs

Železnička stanica Beograd - Railway Station Belgrade, Savski trg 2, tel. 2645-822 www.zeleznicesrbije.com

RENT-A-CAR AVACO RENT A CAR, Avaco – Trnska 7, 11000 Beograd, Srbija, tel. 24 33 797, 34 48 981 Avaco – Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, Beograd, tel. 22 86 434, mob.381 65 535 33 25, Budget, Antifašističke borbe 38, 11000 Beograd, tel. 311 3050 Omniturs, Savski trg 7, Beograd, tel. 761 - 0127 Axiom , Bul.A.Carnojevica 66, tel. 761 - 0127 Skill, Milentija Popovica 9, Sava Centar. tel. 311-3684 Europcar, Bulevar M. Pupina, 10g, tel. 212 03 42 Get Mobile, Zorana Đinđiča 45 v, 11000 Beograd, tel. 313 06 39 UTD, Sava Centar, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 20 5000 AVIS, Hotel Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, Beograd, tel. 313 96 16 HERTZ, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 20 28 200 SIXT, Žorža Klemensoa 19, tel. 328 7070

AVIO KOMPANIJE - AIRWAY COMPANIES AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroflot.ru AEROSVIT, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 3283-430 www.aerosvit.com AIR FRANCE, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2638-222 www.airfrance.com AL ITALIA, Terazije 43/I, tel. 3245-000 www.alitalia.com AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, Terazije 3/III, tel. 3248-077 www.austrian.com BRITISH AIRWAYS, Knez Mihailova 30/IV, tel. 3281-303 www.britishairways.com CZECH AIRLINES, Kralja Milana 6/I, tel. 3614-592 www.czechairlines.com EMIRATES, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel./fax. 303-4489 www.emirates.com LUFTHANSA, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3034-944 www.lufthansa.com MONTENEGRO AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 23/I, tel. 2621-122, www.montenegroairlines.com OLYMPIC AIRLINES, Vasina 14/1, tel. 3036-750 www.olimpicairlines.com Qatar Airways ,Studentski trg 10, tel. 2627-879, www.qatarairways.com

QANTAS, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 2639-166, www.qantas.com.au SINGAPORE AIRLINES, Francuska 17/I, tel. 3035-738, www.singaporeair.rs/ž SRI LANKAN AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/4, tel. 3035-739, www.srilankan.aero SWISS INTERNATIONAL, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3030-140 ,www.swiss.com TUNISAIR, Skadarska 19/I, tel. 3233-174, www.tunisair.com TURKISH AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 30/V, tel. 3036-195, www.thy.com DOMAĆE AVIO KOMPANIJE

Autumn | Jesen 2013 BelGuest

AVIOGENEX, Narodnih heroja 43, tel.2600-445, www.aviogenex.com JAT AIRWAYS, Bulevar umetnosti 16, tel.3112-123, www.jat.com

VAŽNI TELEFONI - IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS BUĐENJE - WAKE UP SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19811 HITNA POMOĆ - EMERGENCY WARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194 MEĐUMESNI RAZGOVORI - LONG-DISTANCE CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .900 MEĐUNARODNI RAZGOVORI - INTERNATIONAL CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .901 METEOROLOŠKA OBAVEŠTENJA - WEATHER FORECAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19011 MILICIJA - POLICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192 OPŠTE INFORMACIJE - GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .9812 PRIJEM TELEGRAMA TELEFONOM - TELEGRAMS BY PHONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9813 SPORTSKE INFORMACIJE - SPORTS INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9814 TAČNO VREME - TIME INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 TELEFONSKI PRETPLATNICI - PHONE DIRECTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11811 URGENTNI CENTAR - EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .361-8444 VATROGASCI - FIRE DEPARTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193

DIPLOMATSKA PREDSTAVNIŠTVA-DIPLOMATIC OFFICES INFORMATION: For all formalities concerning the extension of sojourn in Yugoslavia, issuing of visas, losing of passports in Belgrade, contact the Ministry of Internal Affairs, Secretariat in Belgrade,26, Kneza Miloša St. tel. 3615-055 www.mfa.gov.rs

ALBANIJA/ALBANIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25A, tel. 3066-642, fax 2665-439 ALŽIR/ALGERIA, Maglajska 26b, tel. 3671-211 fax 2668-200 ANGOLA/ANGOLA, Vladete Kovačevića 14, tel. 2653-422 fax 2653-424 ARGENTINA/ARGENTINA, Knez Mihailova 24/I, tel. 2623-751 fax 2622-630 AUSTRALIJA/AUSTRALIA, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, 8th floor, tel. 3303-400 fax 3303-409 AUSTRIJA/AUSTRIA, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3336-500, 3031-964 fax.2635-606 Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3336-593

BELGIJA/BELGIUM, Krunska 18, tel. 3230-018 fax 3244-394 Odelj. za vize/Visa Section, tel. 0800/120-120

BELORUSIJA/BELARUS, Deligradska 13, tel. 3616-938 fax 3616-836 BOLIVIJA/BOLIVIA, -consulate, Slobodana Jovanovića 23, tel./fax 2757-819 BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/ BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, Krunska 9, tel.3241-170 fax 3241-057 Konzulat/Consular section, tel.3038-204

BRAZIL/BRAZIL, Krunska 14, tel. 3239-781 fax 3230-653 BUGARSKA/BULGARIA, Birčaninova 26, tel. 3613-980 fax 3611-136 Konzulat/Consular section, Hadži Milentijeva 69, tel.3446-454

CRNA GORA/MONTENEGRO, Užička 1, tel. 2668-975, fax 3699-546 ČEŠKA/CZECH REPUBLIC, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 3230-133 fax 3236-448 ČILE/CHILE-consulate, Tomaša Ježa 16-20, tel./fax 2459-974 DANSKA/DENMARK, Neznanog junaka 9a, tel. 3679-500 fax 3679-502 EGIPAT/EGYPT, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 2650-585 fax 2652-036 EKVADOR/ECUADOR-consulate, Graničarska 8/III, tel./fax. 3440-135 FINSKA/FINLAND, Birčaninova 29, tel. 3065-400 fax 3065-375 FRANCUSKA/FRANCE, Pariska 11, tel. 3023-500 fax. 3023-510 GABON/GABON- consulate, Lomina 48, tel. 3626-147 fax 3626-110 GANA/GHANA, Djordja Vajferta 50, tel. 3440-856 fax 344-0071 GRČKA/GREECE, Francuska 33, tel. 3226-523 fax 3344-746 Konzulat/Consular Section, Strahinjića bana 76, tel. 3341-507

GVINEJA/GUINEA, Ohridska 4, tel./fax 3444-840 HOLANDIJA/THE NETHERLANDS, Simina 29, tel. 2023-900 fax 2023-999 HRVATSKA/CROATIA, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 3610-535 fax 3610-032 Konzulat/Consular Section, Sime Lozanića 11, tel. 3670-078 fax 3613-566

INDIJA/INDIA, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel.2661-029 fax 3674-209 INDONEZIJA/INDONESIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 3674-062 fax 3672-984 IRAN/IRAN, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 3674-360 fax 3674-363

INFORMATIONS/OPŠTE INFORMACIJE ITALIJA/ITALY, Birčaninova 11, tel. 3066-100 fax 3249-413 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, Birčaninova 9, tel.3066-169 IZRAEL/ISRAEL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 3643-500 fax 3643-555 JAPAN/JAPAN, Vladimira Popovića 6, (Genex Apartments), tel. 3012-800 fax 311-8258 KANADA/CANADA, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 3063-000 fax 3063-042 KINA/CHINA, Avgusta Cesarca 2V, tel. 3695-057 fax 3066-001 Konzulat/Consular Section, Perside Milenković 9, tel. 3693-163 KIPAR/CYPRUS, Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. 3620-002 fax 3621-122 KONGO/CONGO, Moravska 5, tel/fax. 3446-431 KUBA/CUBA, Vukovarska 3, tel. 3692-441 fax 3692-442 LIBAN/LEBANON, Diplomatska kolonija 5, tel. 3675-153 fax 3675-156 LIBIJA/LIBYA, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 2663-445 fax 3670-805 MAĐARSKA/HUNGARY, Krunska 72, tel. 2440-472 fax 3441-876 Konzulat/Consular Section, Vladete Kovačevića 3, tel. 3691-974 MAKEDONIJA/MACEDONIA, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 3284-924 fax 3285-076 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3284-967 (except Wednesday) MALEZIJA/ MALAYSIA, Krajiška 2, tel. 2662-736 fax 3679-080 MAROKO/MOROCCO, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369-0288 fax 3690-499 MEKSIKO/MEXICO, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 3674-170, fax 3675-013 MIJANMAR/MYANMAR, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 3617-165 fax 3614-968 NAMIBIJA/NAMIBIA-consulate, Boška Buhe 220, Grocka, mob.063/1111 450 NEMAČKA/GERMANY, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 3064-300 fax 3064-303 Konzulat/Consular Section, Birčaninova 19a, tel. 3064-400 NORVEŠKA/NORWAY, Užička 43, tel. 367-0404 fax 369-0158 PAKISTAN/PAKISTAN, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 2661-676 fax 2661-667 PALESTINA/PALESTINE, Maglajska 14, tel. 3671-407 fax 3671-336 PAPSKI NUNCIJAT/APOSTOLIC NUNCIATURE, Svetog Save 24, tel. 3085-356 fax 3085-216 POLJSKA/POLAND, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 2065-301 fax 3617-576 PORTUGAL/PORTUGAL, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. 2662-894 fax 2662-892 REPUBLIKA IRSKA/REPUBLIC OF IRELAND – consulat, Kosančićev venac 2/1, tel. 263-5911 REPUBLIKA KOREJA/REPUBLIC OF KOREA, Užička 32 tel. 3674-225 fax. 3674-229 RUMUNIJA/ROMANIA, Užička 10, tel. 3675-772 fax 3675-771 Konzulat/Consular Section, Miloja Đaka 1c,tel. 3670-798 RUSIJA/RUSSIAN FEDERATION, Deligradska 32, tel. 3611-323 fax 3611-900 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3613-964 SAD/USA, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 3619-344, fax 361-5489 SAN MARINO/ SAN MARINO, Makedonska 24/25, tel.3223-509 fax.3374-144 SEJŠELI/SEYCHELLES-consulate, Beogradskog bataljona 42, tel. 3547-309 fax 3547-028 SIRIJA/SYRIA, Aleksandra Stambolijskog 13, tel. 2666-124 fax 3440-221 SLOVAČKA/SLOVAK REPUBLIC, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. 2223-800 fax 2223-820 SLOVENIJA/SLOVENIA, Pariska 15, tel. 3038-477 fax 3288-657 ŠPANIJA/SPAIN, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344-0231 fax 344-4203 ŠRI LANKA/SRI LANKA- consulate, Žanke Stokić 21, tel. 3690-245 fax 369-0243 ŠVAJCARSKA/SWITZERLAND, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306-5820 fax 2657-253 Odeljenje za vize/ Visa Section, tel. 3065-815 ŠVEDSKA/SWEDEN, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 2069-200 fax 2069-250 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, fax 2069-270 (except Wednesday) TUNIS/TUNISIA, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 3690-194 fax 2651-848 TURSKA/TURKEY, Krunska 1, tel. 333-2400 fax 333-2433 UKRAJINA/UKRAINE, Bulevar oslobođenja 87, tel. 3978-987 fax 3978-998

Konzulat/Consular Section tel. 2660-247 VELIKA BRITANIJA/GREAT BRITAIN, Resavska 46, tel. 2645-055, 3060-900 fax 2659-651 UJEDINJENE NACIJE/UNITED NATIONS, Tolstojeva 47-49, tel. 3639-803, fax. 3674-001 EVROPSKA ZAJEDNICA/EUROPEAN UNION, Krunska 73,tel. 3083-200 fax. 3083-201

NEKRETNINE - REAL ESTATE BEYOND REAL ESTATE, Despota Djurdja 13, tel. 292-0377 www.beyond-realestate.com CBRE, Omladinskih brigada 88b, tel: 22 58 777, www.cbre.rs COLLIERS, Bul kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 20, tel. 2663-863, www.colliers.rs Continental 100, Dobračina 21, mob: 064 1193671, tel: 3038662, www.continental100.rs EuroRent, Takovska 45, tel. 329- 3161, www.eurorent-belgrade.com Danos Group, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 2600-603, www.danos.rs EURODIPLOMATIC, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, www.eurodiplomatic.com MENTOR REAL ESTATE, Mileševska 2, tel. 308-90-80, www.mentorrent.co.rs VOS MEDIATOR, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 4, tel.2920-466, www.vosmediator.co.rs

KONGRESNI CENTAR SAVA - CONGRESS CENTER SAVA Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060, www.savacentar.net

BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, /www.sajam.co.rs

TURISTIČKE AGENCIJE - TOURIST AGENCIES YUTA -Jugoslovensko udruženje turističkih agencija Yugoslav Association of Tourist Agencies Kondina 14, tel. 3228-687, 3228-686 fax 3224-137 www.yuta.rs GLOB METROPOLITEN TOURS, Makenzijeva 26, t el. 2430-852, www.metropoliten.com EXCLUSIVE TOURS, Makedonska 30, tel. 3227-539 www.exclusivetours.co.rs MAGELAN CORPORATION, Novi Sad, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 021/6624-823 www.magelan.rs PAN EUROPA ADRIATIC, Bulevar Despota Stefana 33, tel. 3242-187 www.adriatic.co.rs SMART TRAVEL, Svetog Save 43/ I, tel. 2441253, 3087486 www.smart4.co.rs

ŠOPING MOLOVI – SHOPPING MALLS DELTA CITY, Juria Gagagarina 16 MERCATOR, Bulevar Umetnosti TC MILENIUM, Knez Mihajlova 21a UŠĆE Shopping Center, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina ZIRA, Ruzveltova 33 ZLATARE - JEWELERS JOKIĆ JEWELRY&WATCHES, Knez Mihailova 32, tel.2623-862 MAESTRO JEWELERS, Nušićeva 12 a, tel. 334-4459 VITANOV, Vasina 14, RK Beograd, tel. 2181 394 ZLATARNA CELJE, TC Merkator, Bulevar umetnosti 4, tel. 3116-990

MEDICINSKE USLUGE - MEDICAL SERVICES DEŽURNE ZDRAVSTVENE USTANOVE ON-CALL HEALTH INSTITUTIONS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, 3618-444, 3617-777 APOTEKE - PHARMACIES 00-24h PRVI MAJ, Kralja Milana 9, tel. 3241-349 PRIMA 1, bolnica Sveti Sava, tel. 361-10-88, 361-09-99 SVETI SAVA, Nemanjina 2, tel. 2643-170 ZEMUN, Glavna 34, tel. 2618-582 FARMANEA, Trg republike, tel. 3344-923 BOLNICE - HOSPITALS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, tel. 361-8444, 361-7777 KLINIČKI CENTAR BEŽANIJSKA KOSA, Bežanijska bb, tel. 3010-777 KLINIKA Dr DRAGIŠA MIŠOVIĆ, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 2669-955 KLINIKA ZVEZDARA, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 3806-333 KLINIČKI CENTAR ZEMUN, Vukova 9, tel.2612-616

BelGuest Autumn | Jesen 2013

VOJNOMEDICINSKA KLINIKA, Crnotravska 17, tel. 2661-122 PRIVATNE KLINIKE - PRIVATE CLINICS BEL MEDIC General Hospital, Koste Jovanovića 87 tel. 309-1000 BEL MEDIC Outpatient Clinic, Viktora Igoa 1, tel. 309-1000 BEL MEDIC Dom zdravlja, Palmira Toljatija 1, tel. 309 -1000 KLINIKA PETKOVIĆ, Maglajska 19, tel. 2667-078 MEDICAL CENTER „HBO“, Bulevar Vojvode Stepe 347b, tel. 3972-666 MEDENTA, Novopazarska 14/1, tel: 344-0017 POLIKLINIKA „Dr Ristić“, Novi Beograd, Narodnih heroja 38, tel. 2693-287, 2697-808 SLODENT, Centar za estetsku stomatologiju, Lješka35, Beograd , tel: 3553-088 , 060/3553-088 VETERINARSKA KLINIKA - VETERINARY HOSPITAL Veterinarski fakultet, Bulevar oslobođenja 18, tel. 3615-436

USLUGE - SERVICES INSTITUT STRANIH JEZIKA – INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGE INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGES www.isj.co.yu Gospodar Jovanova 35, tel. 2623-022, 2623-034 fax: 2625-525 INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE – INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu.rs BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557, www.britinterschool.com

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Smetanina 12, tel.3066-096, www.british-int-school.org.uk

BROOK HILL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Augusta Cesarca 2, tel. 3691-310 www.brookhill.rs

CHARTWELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 www.chartwellinternational.org

DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693-135, www.dsbelgrad.com ÉCOLE FRANÇAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762, www.efb.rs INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL,Temišvarska 2 , tel.2667-130, www.insb.rs NTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel.206 9999, www.isb.co.rs PADDINGTON SUNFLOWER, English nursery, Belville, tel. 069-750-930 , www.paddingtonsunflower.com

PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Kvarnerska 4, tel. 369-3060,www primainterschoolbelgrade.com Российская школа в Белграде, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 2163-883, www.serbschool.ucoz.ru

SPORT FUDBALSKI STADIONI - FOOTBALL STADIUMS GRADSKI STADION ZEMUN, Ugrinovačka 80, Zemun, tel. 3196-057 STADION FK “CRVENA ZVEZDA”, Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel. 3672-060 STADION JNA (FK “PARTIZAN”), Humska 1, tel. 3227-181 STADION FK “OBILIĆ”, Gospodara Vučića 189, tel. 3807-426 BAZENI - SWIMMING POOLS BANJICA, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 25. MAJ, Tadeuša Košćuškog 63, tel. 2622-866 11. APRIL, Auto-put 2, tel. 2671-547 KOŠUTNJAK, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 7551-353 OLIMP, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 2412-353 TAŠMAJDAN, Ilije Garašanina 26, tel. 324-0901 GOLF KLUB – GOLF CLUB GOLF KLUB BEOGRAD, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel.3056-837 fax 3551-559 www.golfclub.co.rs JP ADA CIGANLIJA, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel. 3544-634 HIPODROM - HORSE RACING TRACK, BRC HIPODROM, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-6835