Laluz 19

www.laluzmag.com THE MAGAZINE FOR THE COSTA DE LA LUZ AND CÁDIZ PROVINCE

ISSUE 19 • JULY-AUGUST 2007

Reap the wind Making waves at the summer board meeting LIFE STORIES

CHICLANA

TAPAS TRAIL

Pottering about on a finca near Olvera

Insiders’ guide to a town adept at reinvention

How, when and where to enjoy these tasty morcels

MARK FLORKO

MEAGHAN CHARKOWICK

16

Insight

Summer’s here and the time is right for a guide to high-adrenalin water sports

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6

Letters Editor’s introduction and all your comments

24

27

News All the latest from around the province 28

12

14

22

Time Travel Quentin Kean takes a look at July and August in history Focus Not everything in the garden is rosy for the cut flower trade Take 5…

If you're after some real flamenco, look no further

Weekender

Water, water everywhere as we explore Andalucia's Lake District

laluz ISSUE19 • JULY-AUGUST 2007

Welcome Contents

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32

39

A Town Like...

A holiday resort with history and a vibrant, old heart - that's Chiclana Why I love…

A laluz reader shares his affection for the province's high sierras Day Tripper Have a splashing time in Seville, enjoy the sport of kings in Sanlúcar or give yourself up to the beat in Jimena Life Stories The tale of two women whose pottery business is on the up in Olvera A Day in the Life The low down on market trading in the provincial capital

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42

44

46

50

Wild Side Walk Picnics, paintings and pantanos are on the agenda for this month’s outing Casting Around A freshwater fish fan shares his enthusiasm and experience of rod and line in the province Gardening Batten down the hatches and find out how to combat those strong summer winds Property If you do like to be beside the seaside, find out what the coastal market has in store

54

Cooking Culture All you want to know about the origins and etiquette of tapas

57

Eating Out Some ideas for summer dining options from across the province

59

What’s On Three pages of where to go and what to do this summer

62

Advertising Directory Local services, businesses and classified adverts

Ask the Experts Advice from those in the know

Staff Director

Designer

Chris Mercer

Raúl López Cabello designer@laluzmag.com

Managing Director Tony Summers tony@laluzmag.com Tel. (+0034) 650 162 696

Advertising & Sales Kelly Summers advertising@laluzmag.com Tel. (+0034) 655 047 054

Editor Jenny Kean editor@laluzmag.com Tel. (+0034) 655 865 569

Cover

Gisela Pulido in Rio Jara, Tarifa © Ludovic Franco/Red Bull Photofiles

Production Tony Jefferies production@laluzmag.com

Printer

© 2007 laluz Communications Reproduction of this magazine in whole or part without the written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.

Fotocromía Pol. Ind. Las salinas de Levante, Avda Inventor Pedro Cawley, 2-4 El Puerto de Santa María 11500 Cádiz, Spain Tel. (+0034) 902 101 105

laluz magazine is published

by La Luz Communications SL Depósito Legal CA 551/2004 CIF B-11784022 Registered address Apdo. de Correos 39 Vejer de la Frontera, 11150 Cádiz,

The publishers reserve the right to amend any submissions.

The views expressed by contributors and advertisers are not necessarily those of the publishers.

Although every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information and the advertisements within the magazine, the publishers cannot accept any liability.

www.laluzmag.com

4

LETTERS

Stay cool this summer

We'll get you out there on a wave with the best of them

Jenny Kean, editor

I’m sure we’ve all done it – sat lazily basking in the sun on our beautiful beaches, watching in fascination as people dressed in rubber suits grapple with kites, sails and boards, suddenly to turn into elegant riders of wind and wave. We might not all want to do it (though let me tell you I am living proof – just – that you’re never too old to at least try), but in this issue, we’ll get you out there on a wave along with the best of them, sharing the passion, the fear and the thrill of what must be among the coolest of sports in every sense.

In fact we’ve plenty of features to keep you cool this summer. We’ve got a guide to freshwater fishing in the province, while our Weekender takes us to the area known as Andalucía’s Lake District. There’s also a watery theme to two of our Days Out – Sanlúcar’s famous horse races along the beach front and Isla Mágica in Seville. And our Property Special looks at the options for that seaside home you’ve always dreamed of.

But the beauty of Cádiz province is that it has more to offer than just its lovely beaches. Read about two craftswomen who found their perfect home in Olvera and one reader who fell for the high mountains of the sierras, while Stephen Daly takes us to a prehistoric cave for our Wild Side Walk.

There are plenty of ideas for those long summer nights too – from the rhythms of Cuba in Jimena to flamenco in the peñas of the province. Or simply do what the Spanish do and indulge in the art of eating tapas with Colette Bardell’s indispensable guide.

One exciting development is that we are launching our new laluz website this summer, so from July you’ll be able to enjoy improved access to all your favourite features and guides to where to go and what to do. It’s the perfect reason to come off the beach.

Feedback Fishy business Further to your article in the March/April issue regarding the fishing crisis in the Bay of Cádiz, I fully understand the dilemma of the fishermen of Barbate and the threat to their history and livelihood. But I cannot understand why two massive Japanese fishing vessels are based in Barbate harbour, apparently sweeping the ocean of huge amounts of fish (mostly tuna).

This is a relentless, 24-hour operation. Are the Japanese allowed to fish in EU waters and are they not subject to our quotas? M Devis, Barbate We followed up your query to discover that while these Japanese vessels are certainly an imposing sight, they are not, in fact, fishing for tuna. The company concerned buys up many of the tuna that are caught locally, and the fish are processed and chilled on these ships ready for transportation to Japan. In the first catch of the season in Barbate this year, a total of 57 tuna were brought

If you have a question or want to make a point, or if you just want to tell us how you feel about the magazine, write to editor@laluzmag.com or by post to: The Editor, laluz magazine, Apdo de Correos 39, 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz. We reserve the right to edit letters for publication

in. Of these, 54 were loaded directly onto the Japanese ships

Legal minefield With regard to Chiclana’s legalised homes plan [Issue 18, news p7]: This subject was first mooted last summer in the local newspaper Chiclana Información and was due to start sometime in November 2006. Of course, this being Chiclana, nothing has happened and no information has been forthcoming from the council when I have visited them.

I note from your article that there is still nothing definite about the legalisation process. Also, you mention a refusal to reveal the proposed cost to the property owner. By allowing these illegal builds to go on in the first place, when they are clearly there for all to see, the council has neglected its responsibilities. And now they want to make the purchasers pay again to legalise what many buyers thought were legal properties in the first place.

Name supplied, Chiclana

Caught short My husband and I have been avid readers of laluz since buying our property in Vejer at the end of 2005. We are both retired so we are over here quite often, but we do have a problem in that Spanish Bank Holidays do not always correspond with those in the UK and we sometimes find ourselves in a difficult situation where all the shops close down. A recent example was last Easter, when shops closed on the Thursday afternoon (the day before Good Friday) and therefore we were unable to buy essential groceries. It would be helpful if you could publish a list of Spanish Bank holidays and shop closures, so that Brits like us would not be caught out.

Christine and Keith Engstrom, Vejer We think this is an excellent idea – I too was caught out by an unexpected puente whilst holidaying here a few years ago. It would be impossible to

cover all the local festivals (some towns shut up shop for their local feria, for example,), but we have introduced a new section in our What’s On pages that should help highlight the main bank holidays. See p58-6. Families new to the area should also be aware that schools often introduce their own days off to ‘bridge’ the gap between a bank holiday and a weekend, for example (hence the name puente). Always check with the school for their holiday dates

Apology We would like to apologise to all our readers for the delayed publication of Issue 18 (May/June). Some errors occurred at the printing stage and we took the decision to get these put right, as we felt it was important both for our readers and our advertisers that the magazine should be of the highest quality. Unfortunately that commitment to high standards meant the issue was late, though we hope this did not spoil readers’ enjoyment of the magazine

6

NEWS

news

Socialists win | high fire risk | property prices ‘firm’ | new wind farms | sherry honours

Socialists retain their grip as polling figures drop The socialist PSOE party of prime minister José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero kept hold of its grip in Cádiz, winning most votes in 32 of the province’s 44 municipalities in local elections at the end of May. Where there was no outright winner – in 19 towns or villages – the elections were followed by horse-trading between parties to agree power-sharing deals for the next four years.

A region-wide left-wing agreement between the PSOE and the former communist party Izquierda Unida (IU) led to the formation of pacted administrations in a number of towns, including Puerto Real, Tarifa and Conil. But in Algar, Olvera and Chiclana IU councillors refused to tow the party line and are now facing expulsion from the party.

An extraordinary multi-party pact in Chiclana brought together the right-wing Partido Popular (PP), the IU, the Partido Andalucista (PA) and the Partido Socialista de Andalucía (PSA) to overthrow PSOE after 28 years of running the council.

In Cádiz city, PP mayoress Teófila Martínez held on to her absolute majority while in Jerez, an outright victory which strengthened the powerbase of PSOE mayoress Pilar Sánchez was the signal for long-time former PSA mayor Pedro Pacheco to quit front-line politics.

The biggest turnaround came in Barbate, where the PSOE more than tripled its vote to win an outright majority at the expense of the PP. In most places, turnout was down on the previous municipal elections in 2003. The highest turnout was in the hilltown of Alcalá del

Valle, where 86 per cent of the electorate voted, the lowest in Chiclana, where only 43 per cent turned out. In general, voter apathy was higher in the province’s larger towns.

In the town of Zahara de la Sierra, the mayorship was still up in the air at the end of June after a spoilt ballot. When the votes were initially counted, the PP had won one seat on the council by a single vote. An objection raised by the local PSOE – that on one voting slip a supporter of the PP had scrawled an anti-Zapatero slogan, thereby making it invalid – was sustained but later went to appeal as laluz went to press.

Francisco González Cabaña, of PSOE, is expected to be returned as president of the provincial diputación, with the support of the IU. Results in major towns: • Algeciras: PSOE mayor, IU support • Arcos: PSOE mayoress, mayority • Barbate: PSOE in, PP out • Chiclana: PP mayor, multi-party anti-PSOE coalition.

• Conil: IU mayor, pact with PSOE • Olvera: IU mayor, PP backing • El Puerto: PP mayor, pact with PA • Puerto Real: IU mayor, minority • Rota: Independents, pact with PP • San Fernando: PA mayor, PP backing, despite PSOE winning most votes.

• Sanlúcar – PSOE mayoress, PA and independents’ backing • Tarifa: PSOE mayor, pact with sole IU councillor • Vejer: PSOE retains outright majority

Workers wait on Delphi rescue talks As workers continued their protests against the closure of the Delphi car parts plant in Puerto Real, talks have been going on with a number of companies about the possibility of taking over the site.

The Junta de Andalucía says it has been negotiating with a Basque firm that makes prefabricated houses, a software company, one that makes solar panels and also sherry producer González Byass, which is considering starting up a bio-diesel plant in the area.

Though talks are continuing, there has been no firm agreement, nor any indication of how many jobs would be on offer.

Around 1,600 workers will lose their jobs with the closure of the Americanowned Delphi factory – a move which, it is claimed, will affect 4,000 families in an area that already has the highest unemployment in Spain.

A group of workers’ wives and girlfriends has delivered a petition to the government in Madrid with more than 280,000 signatures, and 150 workers from the plant undertook a five-day march from Puerto Real to the regional government headquarters in Seville, soliciting support along the way and spending their nights in sports halls.

There have also been demonstrations outside the American embassy in Madrid.

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

Barbecue ban widens as fire risk grows The regional government has extended the summer-long ban on barbecues in the countryside by a further two weeks to counter this year’s greater fire risk.

Warm temperatures and heavy rainfall last autumn and this spring have led to high levels of plant and tree growth throughout Andalucía and the authorities have reacted by outlawing campo cook-outs from June 1st to October 15th.

In Cádiz province alone, €18.5 million has been set aside for fighting and preventing fires. That total includes provision for introducing up-to-date technology such as global positioning system (GPS) devices to assist fire crews.

More than 800,000 hectares of land was affected by fires in the province last year – nearly double the figure for 2005. According to Junta de Andalucía figures, 35 per cent of the fires were intentional and a further 39 per cent were started through negligence.

Reservoirs in the area benefited from the wet spring in particular. Almost all registered higher levels of rainfall than in 2006, though midway through June the average capacity for reservoirs in Cádiz stood at 40.9 per cent – almost six per cent below the figure for the previous June.

The authorities have attributed these lower levels to an increase in usage due to a growing population and more tourism. But Andalucía’s Consejería de Medio Ambiente (environment department) has allayed fears of shortages, saying water reserves are guaranteed for the coming years.

The growing-friendly conditions of the past few months have also led to much higher than normal levels of pollen and allergy sufferers have been warned that they could have problems well into high summer this year.

The rainfall has led to particularly high pollen levels from grasses, olives and nettles.

Barbate museum hopes bulldozed One of Barbate’s most emblematic buildings has been levelled by bulldozers because it was in too bad a state to save.

The town’s former lonja (fish market) was to have been turned into a museum on the almadraba tuna fishing phenomenon and the Battle of Trafalgar.

A €1.6 million renovation project was unveiled amid much fanfare a year ago. But a survey revealed the building to be in an advanced state of disrepair and it was demolished at the end of May – just a day after the town’s new mayor, Rafael Quirós, had been elected.

Quirós, whose PSOE socialist party produced a shock victory in the polls, said plans were still in place to erect a new building on the site of the lonja, but he wanted it to be used as a catering school. “We want to create jobs for people in Barbate, and not something that only a few people will use,” he said.

The lonja had been designed in the shape of a ship by architect Castro Fernández-Shaw in the 1940s.

Reservoir capacity – Cádiz province Reservoir

Accumulated water (mm)

% volume (June 2007)

% volume (June 2006)

5.7

668

68.4

54.4

Barbate

228.1

661

39.7

37.0

Bornos

200.2

565.8

25.9

23.3

Celemín

44.8

587.8

45.1

44.4

Guadalcacín

800.3

546.1

32.5

44.5

Zahara

222.7

527.9

79.0

80.3

Los Hurones

135.3

664.1

49.6

49.2

40.9

46.1

Almodóvar

Total (province)

Capacity (hm3)

1637.1

The Guadalcacín dam near Arcos, clearly showing the water level at less than a third of capacity

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8

NEWS

BECKY DANIEL

Province prices firm in nervous market Estate agents in the province say property prices in the area continue to buck the trend and remain firm, even after the recent stock market scare in Madrid which saw shares in one property developer collapse and other sharp falls in the property sector.

Astroc Mediterraneo lost 65 per cent of its share value in a few days, though other losses were much smaller. The fall prompted fears of a property market crash, but Glyn Lewis of Andaluz Homes in Conil says people in this area should not be worried.

“As far as we’re concerned, it’s business as usual. In my opinion, there is no crash – simply a slow-down in some regions where properties are now being sold for more realistic market values.

The bottom line is that people are currently and will continue to buy here because it differs from the rest of Spain and for that matter, the rest of ‘sunshine’ Europe.

“Property here still represents a sound medium to long-term investment. Predictions for capital growth are six to 12 per cent this year and rental yields are increasing year on year.”

Chris Mercer of Mercers, who sell properties in in eastern and western Andalucía, agrees. “Areas that are very expensive such as Marbella, Barcelona and Madrid could probably do with a price adjustment. I’ve been saying for the past three years that I believe the majority of the Costa del Sol to be overpriced.

“The Costa de la Luz is completely different in that there is not the volume of properties on offer or being built, inland or on the coast. We expect prices here to hold firm and to increase.”

Property special: p46; Experts’ view: p52

New wind farms on the horizon Vejer is set to see the introduction of more windfarms after the Junta de Andalucía gave the go-ahead for 59 new wind turbines in the area.

The move may yet face problems, though, as the five proposed windfarms need licenses from the local council and Vejer mayor Antonio Jesús Verdú has pledged there will be no new turbines without a local consensus.

One campaign group, La Plataforma Ciudadana Vejer Futuro, is calling for a referendum to decide the issue. Two years ago, the group raised a petition with 4,000 signatures opposing the proposed windfarms.

The five new farms in Vejer would be in addition to 15 that are due to be built in the coming year in the province. Nine of these will be in Tahivilla in Tarifa and the remaining six around Jerez, Arcos de la Frontera and

Puerto Real. Further projects are being proposed for Medina Sidonia, Bajo Guadalquivir and Algeciras.

Andalucía currently depends on imported energy and fossil fuels. The windy conditions in Cádiz mean the province is already providing two-thirds of Andalucía’s total energy generated from renewable sources.

Meanwhile, the provincial energy agency has dismissed as “over hasty” renewed talk about the possibility of Spain’s first offshore windfarm being built off the Costa de la Luz. Five possible projects have been on the table for areas round Trafalgar, Conil and Chiclana.

The Agencia Provincial de la Energía says despite two of the power companies forming a new consortium called Cabo de Trafalgar, nothing has changed and no date has been set for any decision to be made.

For more on the windfarms argument, see issue 7 May/June 2005

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

Cádiz beaches fly the flag

Los Bateles in Conil gains the Blue Flag this year

news in brief Expats auction bid An online auction site is up and running aimed specifically at expats who want to buy and sell locally on the Costa de la Luz and elsewhere in Spain. The Auction Platform was the brainchild of Dan Copeland, who moved to Spain with his family in 2005. “We were avid eBay users in the UK but when we came here we quickly realised it would not be worth paying to ship things over. So I decided to set up a free auction site in English for expats and second home owners over here.” The new site theauctionplatform.com helps match up buyers and sellers in the same area so that collection of items is easier.

Bar with a view The Califa hotel in Vejer has a new addition housing a bar, Moroccan tea rooms and an art gallery. Los Balcones de Vejer is the 10th house in the labyrinth that makes up the Califa, but is in a different style from the rest of the hotel. “Working with designer Bertrand Gouillou – who restyled the Hotel Punta del Sur in Tarifa – we’ve created a stunning contemporary look,” says owner James Stuart. “The space takes full advantage of the light and views overlooking the marismas and the rest of La Janda, so we decided to include an exhibition space for some striking art as well.” Los Balcones is open every day, 4pm-midnight.

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A total of 21 beaches in Cádiz province have been awarded the prestigious Blue Flag this year.

Two beaches in Rota – La Ballena and La Costilla – lost the status and they were joined in the list of demotions by El Puerco between Conil and Chiclana. But there were two new flags – one for Los Bateles in Conil and the other for Cala Sardinia in San Roque.

In the category of marinas, Puerto América in the capital failed to receive Blue Flag accreditation, as did Chipiona and Barbate. Sancti Petri and Rota retained their status.

The Blue Flag is judged on a range of criteria including cleanliness and water quality, safety and environmental issues. It is run by the non-profit making organisation, the Foundation for Environmental Education.

The campaign group, Ecologistas en Acción, has drawn up its own list of blackspots and has listed 15 ‘Black Flags’ to beaches along the Cádiz coastline – one more than last year.

The ‘black’ list includes Chipiona, El Puerto de Santa María, La Barrosa, Roche, El Palmar, Los Caños de Meca, Atlanterra and Los Lances in Tarifa. The group blames factors such as over-construction and sewage leaks.

Former England and British Lions scrum-half – and celebrity ballroom dancer – Matt Dawson is buying one of the new properties at Arcos Gardens Golf and Country Club.

Dawson, who was runnerup on the hugely popular Strictly Come Dancing, was among a number of celebrities who took part in a special golf day at the 18-hole course recently. Dawson, who says it has always been his dream to have a house next to a golf course, is pictured (third from right) with, from left: Former Liverpool and Republic of Ireland footballer Phil Babb, disc jockey DJ Spoony, former Arsenal and England footballer Lee Dixon, actor James Nesbitt, former England and Northampton rugby plater Paul Grayson, Arcos Gardens director of golf Ashley Northridge, former Manchester United and Denmark goalkeeper Peter Schmeichel.

Arcos Gardens was also the venue for Chiclana Golf Society’s Captains’ Day in June. Barry Seymour played host to around 30 competitors, a mixture of society members and guests. The levante, coupled with notoriously tricky greens, meant tough conditions for the players but those who took part reported that the relaxed atmosphere made for a fun day. The event was won by Elios Alvarez with 37 points.

Anyone interested in joining the Chiclana Golf Society should contact Barry Seymour on 956 495 409.

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NEWS

Chiclana’s rail link on track

The new train service which will eventually link Chiclana with San Fernando and Cádiz was unveiled at the town’s trade fair in May. Work to build the light railway will be put out to tender later this year and the project has a budget of €185 million. The line will be 24km long and the trains will travel at around 50km per hour, leaving at intervals of no more than eight minutes.

The Junta de Andalucía, which is financing the project, says a second

news in brief New owner for ‘Submarine’ A lawyer who was born in Cádiz is the new owner of the city’s football club. Arturo Baldasano, 62, who has been living in Madrid, bought a 51 per cent controlling share in the club from outgoing president Antonio Muñoz. He told reporters: “I want to do all I can to get Cádiz back into the first division.” Baldasano – who stood for president of Real Madrid in the last two elections – announced he was bringing in former Real Madrid trainer Vicente Del Bosque as sports adviser and the new coach will be ex-goalkeeper Mariano

phase in the future could eventually see a connection between Chiclana and the airport at Jerez.

More than 100,000 people visited the Feria de Muestras y Turismo and the organisers estimated that the event generated somewhere in the region of €20 million worth of business.

The organisers have said that they will be looking to change the date of the next event – whichtakes place in two years’ time – to avoid any clash with the Feria del Caballo in Jerez.

García Remón who has also coached the new Spanish champions. Cádiz – known as the ‘Yellow Submarine’ – last won promotion to the Primera Liga in 2005 but only stayed up for one season.

Having a ball La Luz FC, sponsored by laluz magazine, hosted a successful friendly match against a Sotogrande team in June. The visitors were feted at a barbecue at the home of second team manager Paul Graham, and at the tournament the following day laluz editor Jenny Kean was on hand to present the man of the match trophy to John Day from Sotogrande.

Taking hunt for Madeleine across the Straits A British woman from Chiclana took the initiative in extending the search for missing toddler Madeleine McCann across the waters to Morocco.

Drama teacher and writer Siobhan Fogarty says that inspired by the McCanns, she and friend Martina Fitzgerald decided to be proactive and go to Tangiers to hand out 4,000 flyers not only about Madeleine but also the Spanish boy, Yeremi Vargas, who went missing in Gran Canaria in March.

“It seemed better than sitting at home watching ‘Eastenders’,” says Siobhan. She persuaded a local Moroccan shop to translate the leaflet into Arabic and Mailboxes of Barrosa helped with the cost of photocopying. “From the moment we arrived in Tangier, the magic began,” says Siobhan.

“Every car and taxi stopped to take a flyer and deep in the souk, every shop owner stuck up a copy on walls and in windows. A local radio station put the appeal out over the airwaves to two million listeners. We even got a free lift to get us back to the ferry in time.

“I have never experienced such compassion and support as I did from the people of Tangiers. It restored my faith in human nature,” she added.

Siobhan and Martina’s trip took place before Madeleine’s parents announced that they too were planning to visit Morocco after reported sightings there. findmadeleine.com; International Crimestoppers Tel: 0044 1883 731 336

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

Sherries go down well with London judges

news in brief Van removals

The Jerez bodega Lustau claimed a host of honours at the International Wine Challenge in London, coming home with 27 medals including seven gold and nine silver.

on the market this year. It’s been produced without any chemicals and using sustainable methods to grow the grapes. “The consumer knows that in his hands is a product that has not been contaminated in any way,” says Anton Mateos.

Luis Mateos featured in A Day in the Life in issue 14, harvesting the Rey Habis grapes.

Travellers and their vehicles have been cleared from a site next to Valdevaqueros beach in Tarifa where some have been camped for several years. A total of 34 trucks, vans and caravans were denounced at Casas del Porro, or Las Dunas beach as it’s also known. Most were removed by their owners in the face of a threat by the council to take them to the dump. The police say that the vehicles – all with foreign plates – had no ITV (MOT) or insurance.

The authorities are now planning to erect height restriction barriers at the site.

ANTONIO GÓMEZ REYES

The competition is renowned as one of the toughest in the industry because of its rigorous judging. procedures. A total of 9,358 wines were entered and judged by 400 experts, including British TV personalities Jancis Robinson and Oz Clarke.

In the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, there was success for the manzanilla San León, which is produced by the Herederos de Argueso bodega in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The Reserva de Familia, of which only 1,000 bottles are produced every year, was awarded a gold medal.

This spring has seen the launch of the province’s first table wine produced by organic methods. Rey Habis from the family bodegas Biomateos is a mix of tempranillo and syrah with only 3,000 bottles available

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Summer exodus

Cameras turn attention to Alcalá festival Alcalá de los Gazules’ music festival has grown again for its third edition and this year’s event will be televised for the first time

by Canal Sur. The world famous Soloists of London, who have been involved in the festival since it started, will return again to play with well-known international soloists including

soprano Pilar Jurado, pianist Claudio Martinez Meher and oboist Alun Darbyshire.

“This year we are also trying to involve younger people. There will be some children’s concerts and the youth orchestra of Andalucía will be playing so we hope lots of children will come to enjoy the music,” says Matt Coman of the Soloists.

“I’m delighted with the way the festival has grown. There is nothing like this happening in Cádiz province, so Alcalá is really leading the way in classical music.” ____________________________ The festival takes place from Aug 15th-19th. Details: What’s On or call 0034 617 276 161 or visit thesoloistsoflondon.wordpress.com

Algeciras and Tarifa are bracing themselves for an estimated daily influx of 80,000 people travelling through the ports on the annual exodus to North Africa known as the Paso del Estrecho. Three million North Africans from across Europe are expected to cross the Straits between June and midSeptember for their annual summer trip home. As in previous years, between July 12th and August 6th, only foot passengers will be allowed to cross on the ferry from Tarifa to avoid vehicle congestion.

12

TIME TRAVEL

Those were the days…

Quentin Kean´s trawl through the archives turns up tales of dodgy water supplies, dodgy voting practices and – most horribly of all – dodgy sherry

Top: EMVA and VP sherry – End of an era; From left; Acompañame – The Queen of YeYe, Socorro! – Help!, Brando’s rebellion; Bottom: “A wing and a prayer”

100

60

40

years ago August 1907

years ago July 1947

years ago August 1967

Silent movies “We’ve never seen anything like it,” says the Diario de Cádiz. There’s a stampede during a free, open-air film show on the pier next to Cádiz railway station. The thousands who gather there regularly to watch the silent cinematograph films get caught up in “indescribable panic”.

Windows of shops, bars and restaurants are broken, tables are overturned, people fall into the bay, men lose their canes and shoes – and women have their clothes ripped and their mantillas snatched from their heads. Who caused it? The paper says it’s a “gang of bad guys who get together to assault the decency of women”.

Civic duty Eight years after the end of the Civil War, Spaniards are called on to vote in the country’s first referendum. It’s all about a new law that guarantees Franco’s place as head of state till he dies, appoints a king, or says otherwise. In a notice published in the local Cádiz paper every day during the run-up, the Civil Governor warns that those who fail to vote without good reason will be shamed publicly, face tax penalties and will have difficulty getting hold of passports, safe-conducts and gun licences.

Province-wide and nation-wide it’s a resounding ‘yes’ to the law – and to a Spain that’s free of communists and rules its own Catholic destiny with Franco at the helm. Towns with the highest percentage of ‘no’ votes? Conil and Trebujena (where ‘communist’ mayors are currently hanging on after the recent elections).

Call that sherry?

So, farewell EMVA Cream Sherry (made in Cyprus). Farewell VP sherry (produced and bottled by Vine Products of Kingston, Surrey) too. After a long and expensive trial, a judge in London rules that fortified wine producers in South Africa, Cyprus and Britain can no longer call their products ‘sherry’ without specifying that they’re not from Spain. For the bodegas of Jerez, who’ve been struggling for decades to compete with cheap imports into Britain of socalled ‘sherry’ from the Commonwealth, it’s an important victory. For grannies, teenagers and drunks throughout the UK, it’s the end of an era.

Algeciras water Plans are announced to pipe in more fresh water to Algeciras from the nearby hills of Majadal Alto and Comares. It’s urgent. There’s currently only enough for three litres per person per day, refugees from the fighting in Morocco are flooding into town and people are resorting to puddles and dirty wells for their supplies.

Showing at the Cadiz cinematograph that week: “The Great Fire of Hamburg”, “Children’s pranks”, “The daughter of the volunteer”

At the Cádiz pictures that week: Don Ameche and Dana Andrews in “A wing and a prayer” (“Alas y una plegaria”)

At the movie theatres in Cádiz that week: Rocío Durcal, the queen of YeYe, and Los Beatles de Cádiz in “Acompáñame”, Marlon Brando in “Viva Zapata” and a new version of “¡Socorro!” (“Help!”), with the Fab Four in glorious Eastmancolour

FOCUS | CUT FLOWERS

Blooming tough at the cutting edge Jenny Kean takes a look at the challenges facing the multi-coloured, multimillion euro flower industry which dominates a small corner of the province

SMITEA | DREAMSTIME

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Next time you pop into a British supermarket such as M&S, Tesco or Sainsbury’s to pick up a bunch of flowers, the chances are the blooms you’re holding will have come from Cádiz province.

Sherry may be the region’s most famous export, but the triangle formed by Chipiona, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and Rota is the flower garden of Spain – an industry that is worth millions of euros.

Flowers from Chipiona were used at the royal wedding of Crown Prince Felipe and Princess Letizia, and they are exported all over the world – even as far as Japan and Canada – although Britain is one of the biggest markets.

Flowers for commercial sale were first cultivated in this area in the 1970s. The climate and soil in this pocket between the River Guadalquivir, the Atlantic and the Coto de Doñana is particularly good: there is an abundance of water, long daylight hours and a fertile, alkaline soil, while the warm temperatures mean flowers can be grown all year round.

“Agriculture in Chipiona has always been looking to diversify and open up new channels,” says Giuseppe Pace, the president of Flor de Chipiona, an association that represents 13 cut flower companies in the area.

“Before the flower boom, this area was already doing business with northern Europe with products like tomatoes and peppers, but that whole sector developed in a big way in Almería. The fact that we are so close to the world centre of the flower market – Holland – and other big consumers helped the new industry to take off.”

The first company to switch to flowers was Rivera Flor. In 1972, owner Isidoro Rivera

Durán decided to plant carnations and the story began. Today, the family business is Spain’s biggest exporter of flowers, employing 300 people on several hundred hectares of land.

“We still grow a lot of carnations and spray carnations, 90 per cent of which go to the UK,” says the founder’s son, also Isidoro. “But in total we have around 100 different cut flowers – lilies, roses, gladioli, statis, antirrhinum, gerbera and chrysanthemums, for example.

“Our biggest markets are England, Germany and France. There is very little tradition of cut flowers in Spain – especially here in the south, where the culture of buying them for the home doesn’t exist in the same way. So we do some business in Spain but mostly we export.”

Where Rivera Flor led the way, others followed and the cut flower industry has become an important mainstay for the local economy. It provides jobs for most of the local population – around 1.5 million seasonal working days, according to Flor de Chipiona.

But as in every other industry, global competition now threatens. Countries like Colombia, Ecuador, Turkey, Portugal and others in Africa are providing cheaper products. The figures are dramatic.

Exports of flowers from Spain have more than halved in recent years. In 1999, for example, cut flower exports totalled €101 million. In 2006, that had fallen to €44.7 million. The carnation that started it all has suffered particularly badly, falling to a quarter of the 1999 value over the same period.

“The sector is going through a crisis,” acknowledges Giuseppe Pace of Flor de Chipiona. “The market is becoming more competitive and more specialised.

Producers here need to concentrate on quality and on diversifying. Environmental aspects are also important.”

Local producers in Chipiona can sign up, for example, to an internationally recognised programme that puts the emphasis on saving water and energy and promoting environmentally sound growing methods.

Rivera Flor, which pioneered the change to flowers, is once again taking up the challenge. The company has just opened a huge garden centre that is

more like those found in Britain. The site covers 2.5 hectares of land and has a system of automatic blinds and windows that operate according to the temperature. Not only does it have every kind of tree, palm, plant and flower, but also garden furniture, hammocks, pergolas, china and glass, rugs and even decorative items for the home.

“In future we need to focus more on plants rather than just cut flowers, and diversify our business,” says Isidoro Rivera Durán. “Here we’ve got everything anyone could need for the garden.” In terms of business, the figures once again tell their own story. While Spain’s flower exports have been plummeting, its plant business has taken off to the tune last year of €152 million euros.

Say it with flowers, so the advertisement goes, and for decades, people across Europe have been saying it with a carnation from Chipiona. For the thousands of families who live off this industry in Cádiz, there’s more at stake than just the language of love. __________________________________ Rivera Flor is on the road from Sanlucar to Chipiona at km6,7.

Tel: 956 370 517

The carnation (dianthus caryophyllus) The carnation, or clavel in Spanish, is the emblem of Spain and Andalucía in particular.

The traditional sevillana dress is said to be modelled on the flower, the material pleated and ruffled to resemble the petals of a carnation. Associated with love and happiness, each colour has a different meaning – white for purity and luck, pink for love and friendship, red for passion.

Christian legend has it that while Jesus hung on the cross, his mother Mary wept and as her tears fell to the ground, carnations sprang from the earth. The carnation has been cultivated for 2,000 years and originally was found mostly in shades of pink but it now grows in a range of colours including red, yellow, white, purple and even green. The flower’s ruffled petals, clove-like scent and extended blooming period have kept it a firm favourite in many countries.

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

Rivera Flor in Chipiona is Spain’s largest cut flower exporter and sends millions of blooms such as carnations and chrysanthemums to Britain and other European countries

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INSIGHT | WATER SPORTS

ALL PHOTOS: KIRSTEN SCULLY

16

Kitesurfers on Tarifa’s Valdevaqueros Beach against a backdrop of the mountains of Morocco

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

17

Wave of emotion Nick Sharman examines the lure of the sea and the thrill of harnessing the elements with board and sail

The ocean has enthralled seafarers for thousands of years; the call of the far horizon, the watery unknown, the thrill of harnessing the elements.

And while many of the mysteries of the deep have been unravelled, we still share that passion. Though we face updated challenges with technologically advanced tools, we are still thrilled by the tonic of sea, wind and surf.

Defying the laws of physics, blending strength, technique and euphoric madness, we adventure into an elemental world of terrifying power. Some dive down into a quiet and primal reality; others reach up and grab the wind with a kite, windsurf through uncharted waters with a merger of sail and board or ride the swells themselves on nothing but a sliver of plastic.

I chose surfing. And my first ‘real’ wave changed the direction of my life forever.

It was in El Palmar in 1997. The waves came through as slow, 6ft walls, rearing up and exploding in flashes of sunlight and foam. I cleared the water from my nose and eyes, and looked up at the horizon, hypnotised by the swell lines. I was positioned just behind the breaking waves, transfixed by the arches of colour and smoky spray as they tubed and exploded, sending swathes of glistening foam high into the air.

The wave was nearly vertical by the time I’d turned and initiated a late take-off. But the gods smiled: I plunged, blinded by foam, down the silvery face as the lip exploded, propelling my board onto the curling wave.

Something snapped inside me. I felt connected to my environment in the strangest way as I flew along that curling ramp of water. I was both terrified and in awe, but a deep, connected feeling made me smile like a Cheshire cat.

You will hear similar testimonies from almost all water sportsmen, whether kite surfers, windsurfers, boogie boarders, body surfers, sailors, swimmers or divers. In these glissée sports, all experience the same flashes of oneness.

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INSIGHT | WATER SPORTS

Why we become so fanatical still half eludes me, but one thing is certain: there is something about these water sports that grips your attention and kills the notion of time.

You find yourself spellbound by an invisible though all-encompassing presence that shrinks your notion of self and connects you fully to your immediate environment. You harness the elements of nature and learn to flow with your surroundings, balancing the brutally powerful elemental forces only to steal their kinetic energy and convert it into speed.

Here along the Costa de la Luz, windsurfing, kite-surfing and surfing have had a short, but frenetic existence. The longest established is surfing.

Nobody is quite sure how or where surfing originated, but it was first documented by John Ledyard in Hawaii, serving under the explorer Captain Cook in the late 1700s.

Following the prohibition of surfing after the arrival of puritanical missionaries on the islands in 1821, the sport virtually disappeared from view. However, at the start of the 20th century it was revived by locals in Waikiki, and would soon become established as a bona fide water sport.

Thanks to innovations in board design and increased public exposure, surfing’s popularity increased steadily up to the Fifties. However, it was in the Sixties that surfing exploded, based on the Southern Californian beach culture, the three main points of development being Hawaii, Australia and California. The sport has been growing in Spain since then, especially in the north, where the swells are huge and more consistent.

Surfing’s younger brother, windsurfing, was officially invented in 1967

by Californian surfer Hoyle Schwitzer, who fixed a sail onto his board so he could keep moving when there weren’t any waves.

But it was Eric Lubbe, arriving from Germany in 1983, who opened the first windsurfing school in Tarifa, and overnight this sleepy town became the windsurfing capital of Europe.

Thanks to the bottle-neck venturi effect of the Straits, the easterly levante wind rushes through at breakneck speed at Tarifa, creating some of the best windsurfing and kite-surfing conditions in the world.

Boards have become progressively smaller and lighter thanks to carbon technology and the skill level of windsurfing through the Eighties and Nineties rocketed.

Tarifa remains on the professional world windsurfing circuit, hosting prestigious events such as El Toro Andaluz and the Ballantine Championship.

Windsurfing reigned supreme until the late 1990s, when it was displaced by the shocking arrival of a new water sport: kite surfing. The turning point was the invention in 1987 of the inflatable floating lip, which meant that you could recover the kite even after it had crashed in the water; nevertheless, it took more than 10 years for the sport to become popular.

But fuelled by media exposure, image and fad, kite surfing exploded onto the water sports scene with a vengeance five or six years ago.

Traction kites, previously dangerous and unpredictable to handle, became safer, more efficient and more controllable, and the boards have progressively shrunk from surfboards, then wakeboards, to tiny kite boards.

So how hard is it to learn these sports? What are the requirements?

Well, a basic level of fitness is crucial, but the main requisite is willpower.

If you really want to do it, nothing – bar injury – will stop you.

Windsurfing is basically a form of sailing – except that you are part of the rig, which gives you a dynamic sensation of transmitting power. You can learn the basics in 20 to 50 hours on the water. Windsurfers in Tarifa can be seen blasting along at 75km per hour doing amazing jumps and somersaults. It’s typically a high-wind sport.

Kite surfing, however, is different in that you are propelled by a kite which gives a lot of lift, allowing for a smaller board size with very little volume. Kite surfing is highly versatile and can be performed at lower wind speeds than windsurfing.

At the top end, experts can achieve speeds of up to 80km per hour, performing manoeuvres and somersaults up to 40ft from the water’s surface. It is slightly more technical than windsurfing, requiring a longer training period. It also carries greater risk.

Windsurfing and kite surfing are essentially sailing sports that rely on wind. Surfing is different in that the surfer waits for the arrival of swells that radiate out from storms at sea, and rides them as they break towards the beach. The surfer uses gravity and the kinetic energy of the wave to propel himself along the wave face.

ANDREA DE MARIA/RED BULL PHOTOFILES

Gisela Pulido, at 13 already a three times kiteboard world champion, is a well-known figure in Tarifa where she lives and trains

Easy rider Jenny Kean talks to a triple world champion whose tender age belies her talent She’s thirteen years old, she lives in Tarifa and she’s already been world champion three times in her short life. Gisela Pulido is a force to be reckoned with on the world kite boarding circuit. Born in 1994 in Barcelona, she first took up the sport when she was eight years old. Within two years, having turned professional, she’d been proclaimed world champion on the Kiteboard Pro World Tour (KPWT), a feat she would repeat in 2005 and 2006. She and her family moved to Tarifa to enable her to train more, and she now travels all over the world competing in kiteboarding championships. She was recently named women’s freestyle world leader on the other main tour, the Professional Kiteboard Riders Association (PKRA).

With the likes of Movistar, Red Bull and Volkswagen sponsoring her, Gisela manages to remain very grounded. Speaking to laluz, she was bubbling with enthusiasm about the sport that she loves. “You can go so high and so fast, it’s a fantastic feeling,” she says. “Imagine you’re flying really high, and looking down everything looks so small. I can only describe it as like being on a rollercoaster. And every kid loves a rollercoaster!”

Kite boarding is an extreme sport and riders can be lifted as high as 40ft into the air. But Gisela is undaunted. “I don’t feel frightened because I know I’m in control. I’ve only worried once or twice when the wind was really strong. I love my life – I go kite boarding every day that the wind blows, and I travel to new places all the time, meeting new people, seeing different cultures, making new friends. I feel very lucky.”

And for all you kiters out there – Gisela’s current favourite jump is a Front Mobe. For all you non-kiters, that’s a front roll in the air while passing the handle 360 degrees around the body. Best not try this at home.

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ALL PHOTOS: LUDOVIC FRANCO/RED BULL

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

INSIGHT | WATER SPORTS

Beltran Ysasi Arizon windsurfing at the mouth of the Guadalquivir river in Sanlúcar and (below left) local surfer Mercedes rides the waves at El Palmar

Good surfers can perform acrobatic turns, jumps and manoeuvres, and ride waves of up to six metres (beyond that you need to be towed onto the wave by a jet ski or boat).

At first glance, it may seem easier – just you and the board, no sail, no rig, no paraphernalia. However, surfing has one of the biggest learning curves that exist. You need over a hundred hours of water time just to master the basics, but it’s time well invested. The sensation of riding a vertical ramp of water and having it encase you in a tube is second-to-none. And if you get bitten by the surfing bug, be warned – it will change you.

We, as humans, are built for fight or flight, and the energy that accumulates in our bodies and minds needs to be released – otherwise it turns into stress and burns us out from the inside. We are still, essentially, primitive beings with primitive needs. Water sports give you that outlet.

Surfing - and its associated sports – are so much more than just forms of exercise. Nor is it solely an identity – despite what the fashion industry and the media have done to promote it as one. No, surfing is a lifestyle, a path with heart, a direct plug-in to nature. A surfer battles with his fear and learns to flow with the most ancient, primordial forces that exist. It has no comparison.

SURFING@ELPALMAR.COM

Surf’s up Nick Sharman suggests the best surfing sites on the Costa de la Luz while Kirsten Scully reveals the windsurfing and kite surfing hotspots Recommended for beginners – surfing at El Palmar where there are plenty of schools, and windsurfing and kites at Novo Sancti Petri and Valdelagrana Valdevaqueros, Tarifa – one of Europe’s premier windsurfing and kite surfing spots, lots of schools right on the beach. Strong levante winds Los Lances, Tarifa – another windsurfing and kite surfing hotspot, but neither sport is allowed on this beach in high season (June 15th-Sept 15th) Bolonia – a great place to windsurf and kite when there’s too much wind in Tarifa. There are lots of chiringuitos well protected from the wind. Also a visit to the ruins of Baelo Claudio is a must Yerbabuena (Hierba Buena, 3km past Barbate, on the road to Los Caños de Meca) – some good surfing here and, on a huge swell, this wave will blow your mind! Watch out for rocks and don’t leave anything unattended Los Caños de Meca and Trafalgar – you’ll find surfers, windsurfers and kite surfers here. Beware of dangerous currents off the headland. At Los Caños, if you’re lucky enough to get a big south-west swell with a northerly off-shore wind, you will catch the wave of a lifetime in Hawaiian conditions El Palmar – the most consistent beach for surfing in this area; best waves from Sept-June. The best break is between the access road and the stone tower. Plenty of surfing schools Conil – at the mouth of the Rio Salado there´s a great spot for advanced windsurfers. Glassy waves 2-4m high roll onto the beach in perfect order. With the levante, the wind is offshore, so not good for kiters but good when there is a north-west wind and high tide La Barrosa/Roche – surfing ,windsurfing and kite. A good place for beginners Marina at Novo Sancti Petri – offers windsurfing and kite lessons and hire, a good sheltered spot to learn Valdelagrana, El Puerto de Santa María – both windsurfing and kite surfing schools, a good sheltered bay for beginners Puerto Sherry – hosts windsurfing slalom competitions Rota - Windsurf and kite, best spot on the coast when there is a south wind during winter.

Sanlúcar – Malandar beach where the Guadalquivir river meets the Atlantic Ocean. Good for surf, windsurf and kite

KIRSTEN SCULLY

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JANDIANO

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

Refuelling stops

Windsurfers like this one at Bolonia can become adept at performing jumps and tricks on the water

A different language The LALUZ guide to exactly what surfers mean when they talk about waxing their stick, and much more Rip A dangerous current that can suck you out to sea.

Break (noun & verb) The point where the wave lifts and collapses.

Throw out (verb) The lip of the wave arching and dropping.

Bottom turn (noun & verb) The first turn executed after take-off that brings you back up onto the face.

Swell lines Lines produced by sets of waves approaching the break/beach.

Pop-Up To go from a lying to a standing position on the board.

Wipe-Out Falling off your board.

KIRSTEN SCULLY

If taking to the water (or the air) isn’t your thing, these chiringuitos and beachside restaurants are a great place to just watch the action and soak up the atmosphere from a safe distance.

Sets Groups of breaking waves (usually in threes or fours) resulting from the swell energy produced by storms out to sea.

Offshore Wind blowing from land to sea.

Onshore Wind blowing from sea to land.

Set the Rail Position the board laterally to the wave to ride the face.

Wax your stick Wax your board to stop your feet slipping.

Tube A wave that is hollow when it breaks. Can also be called a Barrel. For some surfers, a tube is what surfing is all about .

Fish A small, wide (more than 19’’) surfboard, ideal for small conditions.

Thruster A standard three-fin short surfboard – ideal for faster, medium-sized waves.

Gun A narrow, long surfboard with a very fast shape for huge waves.

Long board A long, wide round-ended surfboard (longer than 8ft).

Mini-mal A shorter, more versatile version of a long board

Tarifa There are many salad bars and bungalows on the beach at Valdevaqueros where you can sit and enjoy the view to Africa. A new chiringuito at Los Lances is also open this summer, and the beach bar at the Hurricane Hotel serves lunches on a shady terrace overlooking the windsurfers.

There are plenty of other hotels also along the N-340, all of them windsurfing and kite boarding territory Los Caños de Meca Although it doesn’t have a beach view, Las Dunas at Trafalgar has a relaxed surfer vibe with a thatched roof and some good music. The legendary Bar La Pequeña Lulu (keep going until the road stops) serves lovely cakes and crepes. Or try the Moroccan style La Jaima overlooking Playa del Pirata El Palmar Try the chiringuito at the Conil end of the beach for a real taste of beach culture. Squashy chairs and sofas mean you get seriously laid back. El Cartero is a popular spot too with views over the beach. El Aborígena, only open during the summer, is a crowd attraction

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22

TAKE 5… FLAMENCO VENUES

Clubbing together JEREZ TURISMO

As the summer nights heat up, Carmen Berlin offers a guide to some of the best peñas where you can catch flamenco in its pure form

Check your local peña or bigger theatres for performances by musicians and dancers like María José Franco (right), one of the area’s most famous dancers

Flamenco is a way of life in Cádiz province and a great chance to get an insight into this art form is to visit a flamenco peña – a club formed by a group of friends, usually in the name of a famous local flamenco artist.

The members pay a small monthly amount and then raise money from local companies or the town hall. Entrance is free but you are encouraged to eat and drink because that’s how they make extra money – although their prices are very reasonable. At peñas families with children are welcome, as are foreigners, because there’s concern that the pure version will die out to be replaced by flamenco-pop fusion.

If a bar charges for flamenco it’s because you’re getting a full show. Some places insist on silence during performances, others don’t.

Most towns have their own peñas – ask at the local tourist office.

CÁDIZ The tourist office (956 241 001; cadiz.es ) has up-to-date information on all flamenco events, which include: El Baluarte de la Candelaria, Jueves Flamenco A courtyard by the sea that hosts a Thursday night flamenco season. Call the tourist office for dates and times. Entry approx €10 – no reservations but box office open all day.

Calle Alameda; parking: Plaza San Antonio or Parque Genovés car parks Taberna El Marqués de Cádiz Cramped bar with lots of atmosphere in old Cádiz, near the town hall. Flamenco music (but not always dancing) on Fridays 10.30pm-2am.

No food. Entry free. Calle Marquez de Cádiz, 3 El Teatro José María Pemán This is an open air theatre in the Parque

Genovés, beside the sea. On August 25th at 10.30pm it hosts the final of a flamenco dancing competition ‘Concurso Nacional de Baile de Alegría’. Although late, this will be a lively family event with its own bar.

Box office: 956 214 268 or 902 101 212.

Tickets €15. Parking behind the park or Plaza San Antonio Centro Municipal de Arte Flamenco La Merced For those of a cultural bent this new centre offers evenings of flamenco and talks about the art form – all in Spanish. Free entry. For timetable see cadiz.es and click on programación del centro de arte flamenco de la merced. The centre runs a flamenco course for foreigners from July 9th-14th. Plaza de la Merced. See the teacher’s website (cafs.es) or e-mail her on cafs@cafs.es SAN FERNANDO Peña Camarón de la Isla Named after the province’s most famous flamenco singer, Camarón, this club hosts performances in July on Saturday nights only.

From August to September shows on Thursday, Friday and Saturday 10.30pm-12.30am. Entry free. Calle Manuel de Arraiga, near the Town Hall. Tel: 956 592 395; pfccamarondelaisla.com, or aytosanfernando.org for a full list of peñas in San Fernando JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA Jerez is said to be the birthplace of flamenco and the tourist office (Alameda Cristina,7; Tel: 956 341 711/956 338 874; turismojerez.com) produces a flamenco map and guide. The free flamenco peñas in Jerez are closed in the summer so expect to pay in July and August, often with a meal as well. A couple of cheaper options include:

Viernes de Agosto (Fridays in August) There’s always flamenco on Friday nights in August at the open-air Astoria cinema but this year it is being repaired so the venue might be changed. Check with the tourist office at the number above in late July. Entry €10. No reservations, box office opens at 8 pm La Taberna Flamenca Two types of entrance fee: Show with dinner and a glass of fino, €35 per person; Show with two drinks, €15. Every night, one-hour shows at 10.30pm. Summer: Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday – additional lunchtime show at 2.30pm. Calle Angostillo de Santiago, 3. Tel: 956 323 693; latabernaflamenca.com BARBATE Peña Flamenca Cultural, el Niño de Barbate A traditional club with its own outdoor area and good seafood. Flamenco performances (young talent) every other Saturday in July and August.

Call peña for details on 696 782 729 or the tourist office (956 433 962). Entry free. Plaza de los Seis Grifos CONIL Peña Flamenca Conileña, Salvador Periañez All the atmosphere of an older style peña – with painted chairs, a tiled stage area and a patio – but in a new setting. Drinks, tapas and music on offer every day from 6pm. Flamenco singing or dancing usually on Saturdays but check the summer programme with the tourist office on 956 440 501 or at the club. Entry free. Calle Neptuna, 3 _____________________________________ Carmen Berlin’s English-language website spanishgroove.com tells you all you’ll ever need to know about Spanish pop music

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A TOWN LIKE | CHICLANA DE LA FRONTERA

The promenade and bandstand area by the river in the centre of Chiclana

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

From battlefield to peaceful invasion Jenny Kean and Roy Russell explore the many strands of ancient and modern Chiclana Almost two hundred years ago, British and Spanish forces took on Napoleon’s troops on what is now a golf course on the outskirts of Chiclana.

The Battle of La Barrosa took place on March 5th, 1811, and now the British are back in force, though in a more peaceful guise. Chiclana has reinvented itself from its fishing and agricultural origins to become one of the area’s most important tourism and leisure centres.

It may not have the picturesque charm of a Vejer or an Arcos, and to an extent Chiclana has always lived in the shadow of its more illustrious neighbour, Cádiz. But beneath the surface there’s a bustling, lively town with bags of character and the added bonus of miles of sandy beaches (albeit developed) and superb sporting facilities like golf, horse riding and water sports.

The pace of development has been phenomenal: in the 1970s and early 1980s, there was nothing on what is now the huge beach development at La Barrosa; Novo Sancti Petri was just fields; there was no bypass and only one bridge across the river in the centre of Chiclana (work has just begun on a third one).

Pago de Humo – now one of the most densely populated areas and a popular choice for expats – was just a collection of farms. Legislation took a long time to catch up with the speed of that development and even afterwards, unauthorized building has continued in Chiclana. Even so, the town does not have the worst record in the province. Sanlúcar de Barrameda, for example, has more illegal builds.

Thousands of Britons have chosen to make their home here – the highest concentration of expats living on the Costa de la Luz – and many more own second homes. They were originally drawn by cheaper property prices (in 2000, prices here were around 35 per cent of those on the Costa del Sol) and an early edition of the television programme, A Place in the Sun, did much to launch this area as a British destination.

Today there is a growing British community opening bars, restaurants, hairdressers and other businesses. Where once the new residents were older, retired people, now more and more younger families are arriving to make a life here.

The town itself has a few historic buildings of note, mostly from the 17th and 18th centuries when Chiclana prospered along with Cádiz from the opening of trade with the Americas.

Despite the modern sprawl, Chiclana has an attractive working centre and offers some great shopping. There is a thriving theatre, the Teatro

Moderno, and bodegas that are a reminder of the town’s history as an important wine producer.

The busy food market in Calle La Plaza is a riot of colour and noise, the stalls bursting with cheap fresh fish, fruit and veg – catch it now before it moves to a new site that is nearing completion.

Chiclana is something of a survivor. It was hit several times by yellow fever and bubonic plague, and was occupied by the French during the Peninsula War. More recent years have seen the decline of its traditional industries (wine, agriculture, fishing, salt) but the town has bounced back. The thriving commercial areas on the outskirts are testament to its growth as a provider of services and goods.

But away from old Chiclana is the new face of a town that now boasts more hotel beds than anywhere else in the province. The big beach resorts of La Barrosa and Novo Sancti Petri have turned these coastal areas into major holiday destinations, mainly for Spanish but increasingly for other Europeans too.

The luxury hotels, spa and beauty treatments, golf courses and tennis courts seem a world away from the original fishing port at Poblado de Sancti Petri, which dates back to the Phoenicians.

Sancti Petri still stands apart from the new developments. Its small fishing village was taken over by the military after the Civil War and has since been abandoned. It makes an eerie contrast to the new marina and water sports facilities, but there are now plans to turn the village into a cultural and leisure centre. Even with the modern resorts looming so close, this part of the area seems to retain its sense of history; you can stand on the white sandy beach and watch the sun setting behind the island, which is said to have been the site of a temple to Hercules.

Plenty of history, then, and still changing. The future looks vibrant for the town: a lot of work is going on to restore the older buildings and to pedestrianise the centre. A big new retail park is planned near the bull ring and may incorporate a branch of El Corte Inglés; a new bus station is being built and a light railway is set to link the town with San Fernando and Cádiz (and possibly even Jerez airport in the future).

A new football stadium and an athletics track are also in the offing, and the old spa at Braque is to be turned into a museum of myths from the local area. Walks and cycle routes are being opened up in the pine woods and salt marshes surrounding the town in a bid to market the area as more than just a beach destination. In short, Chiclana continues to reinvent itself.

25

A TOWN LIKE | CHICLANA DE LA FRONTERA

Chiclana old and new. Top row: Jesús Nazareno convent in the centre of Chiclana; the old bridge across the River Iro; the commercial centre at Novo Sancti Petri. Middle row: La Barrosa beach at sunset. Bottom row: Domingueros en la playa; The market is a must for fresh fish, fruit and veg; Calle Ancha is a typical street in old Chiclana

NICKY JOHNSTON

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One of Chiclana’s institutions is the Antonia Butrón café, famous for its delicious cakes and empanadas. Sit and taste in the shadow of the Jesús Nazareno church and convent on the street of the same name

What to see & do

The Bullfighting Museum is named after the town’s most famous son, Francisco Montes Paquiro. Includes paintings, costumes and artifacts tracing the history of bullfighting. There are also some sketches by Picasso. Calle San Augustin, 3.

Tel: 956 405 151. Mon-Sat 11am1pm & 6pm-10pm The Marim Doll Factory was founded in 1928 and has an exhibition of the souvenir dolls that are Chiclana’s most famous export. Calle Arroyuelo, 16.

Mon-Sat 9am-1pm La Ermita de Santa Ana is the white domed 18th century building that commands views across the whole area. It can be seen from miles around.

Visits:Tuesdays

The San Juan Bautista parish church is a fine neoclassical building and the adjoining Torre del Reloj (clocktower) is another Chiclana landmark. Plaza Mayor Many paths and cycle routes are being opened up in the pine woods and salt marshes around Chiclana. Ask for information on the Rutas Naturales in the Tourist Offices: Calle La Vega, 6. Tel: 956 535 969 or at Novo Sancti Patri in front of La Barrosa pinewood Tel: 956 497 234

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

27

NICK HADFIELD

READER'S RECOMMENDATION

Why I love… the sierras Nick Hadfield explains his great affection for the high mountains in the north of the province he first encountered when they were blanketed in snow In the stillness of mid-afternoon, looking down the steep valley towards Benaocaz and Ubrique, the Reloj mountain casts a deep shadow across the forest as a Griffon vulture glides effortlessly overhead.

The clanging of cow bells breaks the silence as cattle graze between boulders and trees in the valley below.

I sit perched on a rock slab, high up in the Sierra del Endrinal. It’s a rugged place that combines flat, rocky planes and steep mountain sides which offer amazing views over mountain ranges including the Sierra de los Pinos, the Sierra Blanquilla and el Castillo.

I ventured up here during my first winter in Andalucía, 18 months ago, when the snow was thick on the ground and I scrambled randomly up the first section of this hike from Puerto del Boyar.

The traffic below had ground to a halt due to the excitement of passing motorists who had abandoned their vehicles to marvel at the white carpet covering the landscape. I was glad to be leaving the chaos behind and doing what I love most – hiking in the mountains. Alone or with a friend, in all seasons, always well equipped with water, food, waterproof clothes, compass, torch and camera, spending time in nature is an incredibly satisfying pastime.

After years of living in London it is a great pleasure to be surrounded by so much natural

beauty and running a guesthouse in Arcos de la Frontera gives me plenty of opportunity to jump in my old grey Volvo and drive the 40 minutes up into the Grazalema natural park.

I have a particular fondness for this spot; since that first snowy encounter I have returned many times and have enjoyed bringing friends and guests, who sometimes wonder why I insist on lending them warm clothes and a rucksack. They soon realise when we reach the higher altitudes and the blue sky is replaced by steel grey clouds and the temperature drops.

I have hiked extensively in Japan, Nepal, Thailand and the United States over the last 15 years, and the mountains of Cádiz province are every bit as impressive.

It takes about an hour of steady hiking from the car park at Puerto del Boyar (the mirador at 1,103 metres on the road between Benamahoma and Grazalema) to reach a good view point in the Sierra del Endrinal.

The best approach is to take the path between the picnic shelter and the stone trough through the metal gate just below the mirador sign and follow the path up by the side of a wire fence. The trail head is unmarked but the trail itself is easy to follow and well maintained with regular blue arrows painted on rocks to help keep you on track.

After 20 minutes the steep path levels and the terrain opens out. The hum of traffic

recedes into silence and the Puerto de las Presillas looms ahead, dominating the horizon.

The trail forks to the right where there is a gate marked cierren la puerta. Pass through the gate and then away from the trail up the side of the mountain, and after 30 minutes of fairly steep hiking the way levels and the view south over the mountain range more that compensates for the steep climb.

Pick a rock, sit back and enjoy the calm and tranquillity of an uninterrupted vista.

You can carry on from here and make it a full day’s hike, otherwise, it takes 45 minutes to get back down to the road.

There are many excellent hikes in the Sierra de Grazalema, some needing permits (available free from the information centre at El Bosque) although none is required for this route. The sunset from Puerto del Boyar can be magnificent too. _______________________________________ Do you have a favourite place in or experience of the province you’d like to share with other laluz readers?

It doesn’t have to be a town or village – it could be a beach, a bar, a monument or simply a favourite view E-mail around 500 words to: editor@laluzmag.com or post to laluz magazine, Apdo de Correos 39, 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz

28

DAY TRIPPER

summer

days out The pirate spectacular is full of noise and colour.

Right, cooling off at the foot of the Iguazu falls

Isla Mágica Seville

Walk into any Disney or Warner Brothers theme park and you are assailed from the first moment. Buy this merchandise (at every conceivable corner)…this will be extra – the pressure seems relentless.

Isla Mágica is different, though; this theme park even has an educational angle to it and in summer it provides a very valuable cooling-down service.

Isla Mágica will be celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, having been built in the west of Seville on the Isla de la Cartuja – site of the city’s EXPO project in 1992. It is, the owners boast, the only theme park in the world to be located so close to a city centre.

The eight sections of Isla Mágica recreate Spanish conquests and adventures in the New World in the 16th century. Each zone has appropriately themed attractions and rides, visits to galleons, shows and spectacles and either a snack bar or restaurant.

At the entrance is a boat tour of the island, La Traviesa. This is a gentle introduction to Isla Magica and will help you get your bearings.

After this laid back start, the more adventurous could try the 68 metre

free-fall, El Desafio. It is, as its title translates, somewhat of a challenge, especially to your stomach. Probably best done before lunch. The Quetzal zone is next on the trail and is home to a more family-orientated ride through Mayan mythology.

The first water-inspired attraction is a log flume in the neighbouring Puerta de America zone. Anaconda is a takeyour-breath away experience with two drops of seven and 16 metres. The spray from the water at the foot of this ride is not too overwhelming and pretty refreshing on a hot day.

A similar but steeper and faster version is in Amazonia. Here the 50 kilometres per hour Iguazu ride generates such a splash that spectators gather just to get wet.

The Orinoco rapids provide another way to keep cool. For almost 500 metres you and half a dozen fellow passengers are bumped along in a circular vessel. You will get seriously wet on this.

The Fountain of Youth is for younger children from about four years old and features many mini versions of the adult rides.

To celebrate a decade of providing thrills, Isla Mágica has introduced some new attractions this year. Captain Balas is a family ride where four of you travel on a gondola type float through various

pirate scenes, engaging the bad guys in battle with your barrel guns. Along with Balas is a new lake show, complete with giant water screens and cybernetic fountains.

During the day and into the evening there are pirate shows complete with stunts and explosions and if you want to escape the heat there are various indoor cinema experiences from films on a spherical screen to a virtual rollercoaster ride. Helen Purvis _________________________________ Isla Mágica is open during the high season (June 22nd –Sept 16th) daily, 11am-11pm, and at weekends until the end of Oct High season entry fees: Adult day : €25; evening (from 5pm) €17,50. Child over-5, day: €17,50; evening €13. Under-5 (or under 1m tall): free Information: 902 161 716

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

Sanlúcar de Barrameda The thunder of hooves as half a dozen horses speed towards you at breakneck speed … the bright flash of jockeys’ silks as they urge their mounts to greater effort … the swelling roar of the crowd as the finish line draws near; the sights and sounds of a race meeting thrill and inspire the world over.

Then there’s the setting. Think of the misty hills above Cheltenham in March, the mayhem of Happy Valley in Hong Kong or the manicured greenery of Ascot. But few backdrops can be as impressive as the setting sun highlighting the Doñana natural park from across the Guadalquivir river.

Welcome to the Carreras de Caballos de Sanlúcar de Barrameda – Spain’s oldest race meeting. It’s a little different from your average event. For a start, the horses gallop along the river beach which fronts the town. And secondly, the racetrack is full of holidaying sunseekers until moments before the start of each race.

The two cycles of the carreras take place over three consecutive nights, usually in early and mid-August (though the events are later this year). Their timing depends on the tides, because, let’s face it, a horse wouldn’t get too far trying to swim against a high tide.

Despite the fact that there’s big money at stake – the pot has, in recent years, passed the €1 million mark – the atmosphere is cheerily informal.

Beachgoing families and friends spread across the sand during the afternoon and, as evening arrives and the races start, they make way (temporarily) for the equine stars of the show.

Actually, it needs a siren and a police car driven along the kilometre or so course length to ensure stragglers have moved the right side of the plastic barrier before each of the half dozen races.

Once the horses pass by en route to the finish, the barriers are thrown down and the crowds claim the beach again.

It’s all gloriously irreverent and a great place to while away a few hours, picnic and a glass of something cold from the coolbox to hand.

As for the financial side of it, spectating costs nothing and if you want to have a flutter, there’s an official ‘tote’ stand among the sponsors’ marquees near the finish line, where you can also pay for a place on the temporary seating.

Then there are the mini-entrepreneurs: pre-teens who set up their cardboard stalls and take €1 bets on which horse will lead the field as it passes them.

It’s as well to arrive early. Even so, you’ll face a bit of a hike from the underground car park on the Calzada de Ejercito or the streets behind the Paseo Maritimo.

When the fun’s over, head into the centre of the lower town and jostle with the locals for a place at the bar of one of the excellent tapas bars around the Plaza del Cabildo.

Robert Friedlander ________________________________ Carreras de Caballos de Sanlúcar de Barrameda: August 9-11 & 23-25 Details: arrerassanlucar.es Tel: 956 363 202 carrerassanlucar.es

DANIEL MOLINA

BUKKO | DREAMSTIME

Sanlúcar horse races

29

The races are set against the backdrop of the Guadalquivir river and the Doñana natural park

DAY TRIPPER

JIMENADELAFRONTERA.ES

30

The World Music Festival goes out with a bang

World Music Festival Jimena de la Frontera

With the warm summer evenings at their longest, the streets and squares of Jimena de La Frontera are filled with music in July when the annual World Music Festival comes to town. Now in its seventh year, this summer’s event is dedicated to the seductive sounds of Cuba and brings together some of the genre’s most celebrated names.

Jimena’s exquisite location gives this festival a unique charm. Standing high on a hill with panoramic views of the Straits, its maze of narrow, winding streets allow for an intimate encounter with the musicians.

While many of the larger performances take place at the Estadio

Municipal Andrés Sarrias, there will also be several concerts in the open-air courtyards of the casco antiguo such as the Llano de La Victoria, with many continuing long into the night when the castle and neighbouring churches are lit up, bathing the town in colour.

There is also an evening market to wander through on Calle Sebastian.

Cuba’s deep-rooted musical tradition stems from both its African and later Spanish heritage and is captured by the infectious rhythm of the son and nueva trova tradition.

These two genres have had a huge influence in the development of jazz, salsa and nuevo flamenco, yet there is an exotic sensitivity that belongs only to Cuba’s past. With the smooth rythmical sound of the Cuban tres, a guitar-like instrument with three double strings, the musicians playing at this year’s festival will be taking us for a

nostalgic ride through the cobbled streets of Jimena to those of Havana from where their passionate lyrics of love and patriotism first emanated.

Groups such as El Grupo Compay Segundo will be there (made up of Compay’s sons since his death), as will the inspirational composer, singer and improviser Chucho Valdes, son of the legendary Bebo Valdes and now one of Cuba’s greatest jazz pianists.

Farah Maria will be performing with the pianist and bolero singer Meme Solis, as will the much loved Habana Blues Band and the Grupo de Guayabero which only recently lost el Guayabero himself (of Buena Vista Social Club fame) and will be sure to give an emotional performance.

The festival will also feature numerous Spanish groups and singers such as the hugely popular group Jarabe de Palo whose lead singer, Pa Donés, struggled for years before finding success with the lyrically ingenious ‘Un beso de La Flaca’ (remember summer of 1997?) after a long trip through Cuba.

The unconventional Son de la Frontera, who have embraced the tradition of flamenco puro and fused it with the more melodic and rhythmic Cuban tradition, are still one of the only Spanish bands to incorporate the tres in their music.

There will be flamenco performances by La Negra, Antonio Carmona (ex-member of Ketama) and Miguel Poveda who have also been greatly influenced by Cuba’s musical past. It seems more than appropriate then that this year they will all be playing at the festival alongside their Cuban contemporaries.

Yvonne Pardo _________________________________ The festival takes place from July 5th-14th. Details: Tel: 956 648 137; festivaljimena.org

More of the best days out Day trip to Morocco On a clear day in Tarifa it’s as if you can reach out and touch the Rif mountains. A 45-min ferry crossing makes a day trip to Tangier possible for some haggling and sightseeing.

FRS ferry from Tarifa, Algeciras or Gibraltar to Tangiers.

Tel: 956 681 830; e-mail info@frs.es; frs.es.

Around eight sailings daily each way from Tarifa.

Prices for a day trip €50 (adult), €30 (chidren)

Baelo Claudia Magnificent remains of a Roman settlement at Bolonia (near Tarifa), with a stunning beach and views across the Straits to Africa.

Turn off the N-340 (Cádiz-Malaga) at km70.2, signposted to Bolonia (CA-P-2216); the car park is about 8km at the end of this road. Open June-Sept Tues-Sat 10am-8pm, Oct-Mar TuesSat 10am-6pm. Sundays 10am-2 pm, Closed Mondays.

Entry free for EU citizens (take your passport), others €1.50

Sherry tours The world’s sherry comes from the triangle between Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

All the big makers give tours of their bodegas (cellars) with tasting session included.

Contact local tourist offices for details

Sotogrande polo Mix with the rich and famous at one of the world’s most prestigious polo tournaments in Sotogrande. More than 1,000 horses and 120 riders gather for the Copa de Oro at the Santa María Polo Club from August 18th-31st.

See santamariapoloclub.com

32

LIFE STORIES

Hotspot ticks all the boxes Angela Clarence meets two artisans who are branching out into self-sufficiency at their dream home near Olvera Above: Elizabeth and Jenny knew “instantly” that they wanted to live near Olvera; some of the glass tiles they produce; the view from the terrace of the house

Elizabeth Aylmer and Jenny Stock made a list of 15 requirements when they set out to find their new home in Spain.

They wanted to live in a community, but not in the centre; as glassmakers, fabric designers and potters they needed a property with the potential to convert buildings into workshops; it needed to be located down a track; as avid gardeners, they wanted land to realise their hopes of self-sufficiency; they were also looking for a separate guest area and a raised verandah.

“Most of the items on our list stemmed from my childhood in Zimbabwe,” Elizabeth says, “and we ticked off all but one. We only realised it quite recently.”

Elizabeth and Jenny chose Ronda as a point of focus and rented a house in Gaucin while searching for the right property. When they came across Olvera, Elizabeth says they “knew instantly that we wanted to live in the area.”

They found something suitable in a half-hidden valley, out in the country yet only five minutes from the town.

“We saw the house and simply fell in love. It was too much money. There was too much land. But we had had a few shocks that year, several young friends had died and it made us feel that life is too short not to go for what you want. So here we are – somehow.”

Three-and-a-half years later, sitting on that verandah with a handsome

Rhodesian Ridgeback dog stretched out at my feet, African sculptures adorning garden and patio, and an idyllic view stretching across the meadow to a river and eucalyptus trees beyond, I feel as though I am on a set from Out of Africa.

We lunch on tortilla made with home-grown tomatoes and onions, with mixed leaves salad, followed by strawberries, all eaten off stoneware pottery made on the premises before relaxing in the patio loggia, heavy with the scent of aromatic plants.

The two women explain what prompted a move from their picturesque home in Devon and from their thriving pottery and handmade textile business. “I decided I wanted to spend the rest of my life somewhere hot,” Elizabeth says. “I love the heat – after all I was brought up in Zimbabwe.

“So we decided to move to southern Spain. And now that the house and garden are well on their way we are beginning to build up the business here.”

Most of the builders who gave quotes for the renovation wanted to knock the house down and start again.

The neighbours also “thought we were mad for saving it.

“But the builder and his team worked like Trojans, never missing a

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

single day’s work. They had their opinions, of course. They insisted we use cal on the eucalyptus beams and ceilings, so we are for ever sweeping up the bits which flake off. This year we used ‘plastic’ paint on the kitchen ceiling… what a difference!

“Of course now and again we have a leak, but I hold the ladder and Jenny shins up onto the roof and fixes a wonky tile.”

The downstairs consists of a kitchen, larder/utility room, shower room and two large living rooms with plenty of space for bookshelves.

Upstairs, one of the grain lofts has been converted into separate guest quarters with double bedroom and en suite bathroom.

And up another staircase, two further bedrooms and a bathroom have been created out of the second grain loft.

Elizabeth and Jenny have done little to alter the main fabric of the house, apart from adding more windows and replacing the old ones with replicas, painted the same traditional grey-blue.

The verandah had to be rebuilt and roofed to make the upstairs balcony into a winter sun terrace and the perfect setting for sleeping out on summer nights. “For the winter we have two wood burners downstairs. In

this valley we have frosts. It reaches -5C sometimes. Perhaps that is why the roses have done so well,” Elizabeth says.

Jenny has a degree in agriculture and has taken on the task of taming the three hectares of land. “We made an orchard with nectarines, peaches, apples, pears, figs, cherries, plums, mulberry, walnut, olives and several varieties of grapes,” she says.

“The vegetable garden is as big as a football pitch. Last year we planted 8,000 asparagus plants. We pick from the end of March to the middle of May and sell at the local cooperativa.”

While I’m visiting, neighbour Juan Pedro arrives with his digger to lay the foundations for the new herb garden.

The meadow has been let to local farmers, but I can tell from the glint in Jenny’s eye that she has plans.

In the meantime their flower garden is a mass of roses, honeysuckle, passionflower, lavender, bottle brush, hollyhocks, hibiscus, cannas and poppies. Elizabeth explains: “We learnt quite quickly what will not grow. We tried citrus and a Jacaranda tree to remind me of Zimbabwe, but the winter was too cold for them.”

Given her links with southern Africa, it is not surprising that Elizabeth’s stoneware plates, bowls and cookware

have an incised pattern reminiscent of tribal designs.

This ‘oven-to-table’ ware is known as rukweza, a Shona tribal word meaning grain. She uses a traditional wood-ash glaze, which pools into a gentle, grey-green colour.

Their work is already selling well locally. “The Spanish love this pottery.

They have never seen anything like it and can’t believe it is so hard wearing.

We have even had several commissions for individual pieces for charities and events in Olvera.”

In line with their original wish list, they have converted two outbuildings into workshops. The first contains each of their potters’ wheels and a kiln. The second is for designing and creating their fused glass dishes, platters, coasters, tiles and a range of eyecatching glass jewellery.

As for the textile design, Jenny hopes to take it up again one day, but between the house, the land, the pottery and the glass some things will have to wait. ________________________________ Artesanía del Prado is on the old Algodonales road (direction El Gastor) just outside Olvera.

Call 956 234 060 or email lizyjen@terra.es or visit artesaniadelprado.es

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Clockwise from top left: Jenny has transformed the garden; stoneware candlesticks; shutters are painted in the traditional grey-blue colour; Jenny and Elizabeth; neighbours thought they were “mad” for saving the cortijo; the handmade pottery is going down well with the locals

A IV

A P A R T M E N T S

IV A

F £1 rom 48 o ,3 nl 00 y +

G O L F

+ 00 ,0 00 €6

Arcos (ref JER004)

Altos de Montecastillo

Beautifully presented Cortijo on 1.7 hectares. 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, courtyard, stunning lounge and farmhouse kitchen. 330m2. swimming pool, wonderful views. Rare opportunity to buy a completely legal rural property.

A IV

+ 00 ,0 40 €1

JEREZ Centre Jerez CENTRE(ref (refJER001) JER001)

These 1 & 2 bedroom luxury apartments are located in a privileged location close to the 5* Montecastillo hotel and overlooking the Jack Nicklaus designed championship golf course, • The facilities at Altos de Montecastillo will be in keeping with the rest of Montecastillo and will include 2 swimming pools, children’s play area, paddle courts, landscaped gardens and a small commercial centre with shops, restaurants and bars.

• The properties come with fully fitted kitchens • marble floors • hot and cold air conditioning • video entry phones • double glazed windows etc.

5% pa guaranteed rental return option

+ 00 ,0 85 €1

Medina Sidonia (ref MS003)

A light and airy 2 bed apartment in a quiet street in the centre of Jerez.

Fully fitted kitchen and bathroom, optional furniture, and a lovely 35 m2 private sun terrace.

Located within a traditional flamenco neighbourhood.

La Noria

A IV

L A

F R O N T E R A

IV A

00 ,0 39 ,3 €1

Jerez Centre (ref JER007)

D E

F £1 rom 63 o ,2 nl 65 y +

A very well presented 3 bed, 2 bath townhouse.

Large kitchen leading to well proportioned back porch and sun terrace.

Large front terrace with views over open countryside. Fully furnished to a high standard. Only 15 mins to sea and close to future golf course.

V E J E R

Amazing 16th Century palace in the centre of Jerez. 1100 m2, fully restored with many original features. Rooftop apartment and 2 storey tower, 2 gardens and garage. Lots of bedrooms, bathrooms, large attic room, ideal for conversion into further accommodation. The property comes with a garage and 2 patio gardens. This is a unique property even by Jerez standards.

We have just released the 2 final phases on this very popular development in Vejer.

• 3 Bedrooms, Family bathroom, Shower room, Lounge/Diner, Kitchen, front and rear terraces. Rooftop solarium and communal pool.

• All properties have pre-installation of air-conditioning, Porcelanosa tiles, double glazed windows, top quality construction. Optional underground car parking available.

We believe these to be the best value new build properties available in Vejer.

Guadalsur

HISTORIC CENTRE – JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA

L E B R I J A

Fr o £7 m 9, on 59 ly 1

Fr o £9 m 2, on 99 ly 3

Plaza Mirabal

Unique opportunity to buy a 1 or 2 bed apartment in the “Casco Historico”. Built to a high standard and situated in a lovely Plaza, this project typifies the trend for mixing new with old. The front of the old “grand” house will be kept, thus retaining the style and elegance of the past yet with brand new properties built to 21st century standards.

If you are looking for the next “in-place” Lebrija pushes all the right buttons. Only 20 mins from Jerez, 40 mins from Seville & Cadiz.

The beaches of Sanlucar are only 25mins away. Train & bus station.

• Bedroom, 2 bath (1 en-suite) + WC, lounge/diner, kitchen, utility room and both covered and open terraces.

• Within walking distance of the beautiful main square of Lebrija, Guadalsur offers unbeatable value for money. These prices are around €100,000 less than you would pay in Jerez or Seville.

Great investment potential and only 8 properties for sale – so hurry.

Only 6 left at these prices and then developer is raising the price.

00 ,2 12 €3

Jerez (ref JER003) Converted Bodega.

Stunning conversion of an old bodega, situated in the Casco Historico. 3 bedrooms, 1 en-suite bathroom and 2 further shower rooms.

Fitted kitchen, lots of exposed beams and stonework. Shared courtyard patio and rooftop sun terrace.

Finished in a contemporary style, this apartment also comes with an underground parking space.

For more information on how can we help you, call

+34 956 329 572 (Jerez) +34 956 455 075 (Vejer) +44 (0) 1491 574 807 (UK) sales@spanishproperty.co.uk www.spanishproperty.co.uk 40 ,4 93 €1

Pueblos Blancos (ref JER019)

Wonderful village house with 3 bedrooms, 2 living rooms, private terrace, cellar and 70 square metre garden/orchard.

In one of the most beautiful towns in the Sierra de Cadiz (Grazalema)

Our passion is property Jerez Office: Calle Porvera, 31 • Jerez de la Frontera, 11403 Cadiz

From top: The Garganta del Chorro is a dramatic sight; the azure-coloured waters and bustling towns like Álora in Andalucía’s own ‘Lake District’

MICHEL CRUZ

WEEKENDER | EL CHORRO

MICHEL CRUZ

36

37

ALL PHOTOS: MARK FLORKO

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

Hitting the high spots Michel Cruz wanders through the half-hidden water world only a few miles inland from the bustling Costa del Sol The Costa del Sol is all about resorts: lying on the beach or at the poolside and taking it easy. So it’s easy to forget that the imposing row of mountains that separates the interior from the coast conceals some stunning sights – natural and man-made.

As far back as the late 18th century, romantic adventurers such as Lord Byron and Alexandre Dumas travelled this wild hinterland, often along paths that hung perilously between heaven and earth, en route to the dramatic landscapes that so typified the Andalucían spirit.

Nowadays, you won’t have to brave the infamous bandoleros, the gangs of brigands which once roamed these mountains, to reach El Chorro. But like those pioneering visitors, there’s a good chance of becoming enchanted by what you find.

Just 12 kilometres from the pretty white village of Álora lies one of the great natural wonders of Spain, the Garganta del Chorro, a gaping chasm 180 metres high that slashes through a massive limestone mountain.

In some places, where the foaming white waters of the Guadalhorce river surge through towering masses of rock, the gorge forms a steep, narrow corridor, carved by erosion as if sliced with a giant knife.

This is where you’ll find the infamous camino del rey, a narrow path that was cut into the near-vertical sides of the mountain; only the most foolhardy have attempted to complete this torturous trail, shuffling along the ledge with hands firmly on the metal rails, and many have plunged to their death in the attempt.

This particular form of sightseeing is out of bounds nowadays but hikers, mountaineers and balloonists have discovered many other ways to enjoy the overwhelming beauty of this remote parts of the region.

Below the camino, a railway bridge disappears into a tunnel at the side of the mountain; and at the foot of the gorge the silted waters of the Guadalhorce flow towards the massive concrete walls that form part of the last in a series of dams. The tiny settlement of El Chorro, built to house the engineers and technicians who maintain the dams and hydroelectric power plant, reflects the Edwardian era in which these great feats of engineering were accomplished. Now popular with sightseers, its quaint little railway station attracts almost as much attention as the spectacular views towards the Garganta del Chorro.

Drinking in the peace and serenity of this spot, it’s hard to imagine there is a lively village just a few kilometres beyond the towering,

WEEKENDER | EL CHORRO

MICHEL CRUZ

38

The infamous Camino del Rey is cut into the nearvertical sides of the mountain

south-facing cliff. Like the archetypal pueblo blanco that it is, Álora’s tightly-packed maze of medieval houses and narrow, cobbled alleys stretches out across the side of a steep hill.

Topping this ancient settlement, which has been in use since before Roman times, are the ruins of a 14th century castle that allow a clear view of the town and its fertile wheat fields, citrus orchards and olive groves.

Sleepy and dusty on a hot summer afternoon, the little town seems almost abandoned on the rare rainy winter days. But at night, on market days or during one of the many festivals, Álora is brimful with exuberance.

There is more to this region, however, than canyons and white villages. Follow the sign to Bobastro, just off the main road, and you find yourself in a spectacular green and brown landscape where an indigenous pine forest has entangled itself among boulders, slopes and overhangs that have been scoured smooth as a pebble by erosion. This setting is so captivating that you scarcely notice the steep climb until you suddenly find yourself high above the surrounding countryside, astride a flat-topped mountain and at the site of one of the region’s great legends.

Here, among the scrub and wild flowers, lie the almost imperceptible remains of a Christian stronghold that held out against the Moorish invaders for an entire lifetime. This was the base from which Omar Ben Hafsun led a revolt against the Caliph of Córdoba that would last for decades.

Born a Muslim convert, the fair-haired Hafsun was raised on tales of the old Christian Spain that predated the Moorish invasion. Once converted back to Christianity, he was on a collision course with the Moorish leaders, becoming first a bandit leader, then a governor and finally an outlaw with a large following who ultimately found refuge in this remote outpost of al-Andalus.

No army could conquer Hafsun, as he had ample supplies of water and pastures on his mountaintop stronghold, and could see any enemy coming from miles away. A huge reservoir right on top of the mountain attests to the water supply, but you’d have to look very hard to find the remnants of Omar Ben Hafsun’s castle among the trees and caves of this rock.

Best equipped for this are the hikers, mountaineers and campers who visit this ‘Lake District’ of Andalucía.

Extending north and westwards from El Chorro, a series of dams has been built to create these lakes – or reservoirs. The Edwardian architecture of the Guadalhorce Dam and the houses built to house the engineers and technicians lend this area an unexpected elegance.

Driving along the winding, tree-covered road that skirts the lakes, you pass above the azure-coloured water that gently laps sandy shores where families gather to sunbathe, picnic, fish or frolic in the water.

It gets busy here at weekends, but during the week you could pick your table at the local restaurants, stroll along the pretty waterside walk and follow the steps down the misty slopes of the gorge in relative peace.

The sight of swans gliding on a bright blue lake overlooked by a grand turn-of-the-century mansion is enough to make you wonder if you haven’t somehow landed up in Austria. But it is that sense of the unexpected which gives this beautiful corner of Andalucía its charm.

Where to stay

Where to eat

Hotel La Posada del Conde Beautifully located by the lakes. Pantano del Chorro 16, Ardales.

Tel: 952 112 411 hoteldelconde.com

Finca Rocabella Has stunning views. Las Angosturas, El Chorro Tel: 638 054 023 fincarocabella.com

Finca Pantano Lake cottage near Montecorto, pictured, a good base for exploring the area.

Tel: 600 700 797 ownersdirect.co.uk (ref S5561)

La Garganta Restaurante Has simple food but incredible views. El Chorro, Tel: 952 495 119 lagarganta.com Tourist offices Álora Tel: 952 495 577 Ardales Tel: 952 458 046

A DAY IN THE LIFE

39

Trading on a good name MIREIA CANO

El Piojito (The Little Louse) is the Monday street market in Cádiz. Juan Romero runs stall 64 where he sells men’s and women’s fashions, continuing the family tradition of market-trading

How long have you been in the market trade?

My mother first took me to a market in a box when I was a baby and I started helping out when I was nine – I’m 45 now. We’re romeros (gypsies) and this is a family business. This stall belongs to my father, Antonio Romero, so I work for him. I’m here today with my nieces Maria (15), Yolanda (14) and nephew Luis (27).

Where do you buy your stock?

I go to warehouse sales in Seville and Málaga about 10 times a year. If a shop sells an item of clothing for €20 then we sell it for seven. Some traders go to Portugal and buy falsificaciones (illegal copies) of designer clothes such as Lacoste, but we don’t. It’s a crime and if you get caught by the police you have to pay a heavy fine or even go to prison.

Who are your customers?

Mainly women – they usually come after they’ve dropped the children off at school so we get busy from around 10am. They’re looking for quality and low prices. Nowadays people want designer clothes – we do sell them but only if they have the right ID numbers.

How do you get a stall at El Piojito and how much does it cost?

You apply to the ayuntamiento (town hall) and wait for a place to come up. Each stall comes with a parking space for your van. We pay

€1,000 a year – and that’s just for El Piojito on Mondays – we’re at a different market every day: Tuesdays at El Puerto de Santa María, Wednesdays at Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Thursdays at San Fernando, Fridays at Puerto Real and Saturdays at San Pedro.

We have to pay each ayuntamiento so it adds up. We earn enough money to live on but not enough to save.

Has running a market stall changed since you were a child?

Yes, there’s much more bureaucracy now and we have to register as autónomos (self-employed) and pay social security. But the benefit of that is that we’ll get pensions. The whole rag trade is different too; there’s the really cheap clothing which comes from China, and then there’s the better quality stuff that’s made in Spain but you have to pay more for that.

What do you do in your spare time?

We leave the market around 3pm and in the afternoons we rest. I’m an evangélico (Pentecostal) so I don’t go to church but I’m

very religious and believe that I have a personal relationship with God and talk directly to him. When I was young I had a problem with drugs but 15 years ago I discovered this religion and I’ve been fine ever since.

Every gaditano has their favourite beach, which one is yours?

I’m actually from Jerez but I live in El Puerto, so I tend to go to the beach at Valdelagrana because it’s the nearest. ____________________________________ El Piojito street market is on Avenida de la Bahía, Cádiz (near El Corte Inglés) every Monday between 8.30am and 2.30pm. Public transport: Go to Cádiz railway station (final stop) and take the No 5 bus. Parking: car park at El Corte Inglés

STEPHEN DALY

40

WILD SIDE WALK

Picture of natural beauty

Stephen Daly enjoys a picnic under the wild olives before taking a peek at some cave paintings near Benalup

During the summer months longer walks in the area can be quite tiring under the hot sun. But one area near Benalup which brings some relief from the heat is worth exploring. This is the Centro de Visitantes (visitors’ centre) Albergue y Jardín Botánico – Casas Viejas.

Drive to Benalup and head for the old town centre where the church is situated. Follow the road out of town on the C212, descending through the flat agricultural area that is the west side of the La Janda plain. Follow the road for approximately seven kilometres and you’ll find a large picnic area on the right, where you’ll see the western shores of the embalse (reservoir) de Celemín.

The entrance to the area is signposted and there are tables and lots of acebuche (wild olive) trees that provide shade. Here you can relax, explore a little and have a picnic.

There are tracks all around the reservoir and you’ll find lots of birds and other interesting wildlife. Nightingales, Spotted Flycatchers,

Melodious and Sardinian Warblers are breeding in the wooded areas and Crested Larks and Little Egrets can be easily seen along the meadows and water edges.

Just a short walk further along the road from the pantano, is the site of one of the many ancient caves in Cádiz province. This one has 3,000 year old cave paintings and ancient tombs. The site is signposted ‘Cueva del Tajo de las Figuras’. No parking here so leave the car at Celemín but do take care walking along the road.

The track starts at the guard’s wooden hut at the entrance by the roadside. It’s a short walk on stony ground up to the cave and the track rises gradually to the rock face of the cave where there is a good ladder and a small viewing platform.

Inside the small cave there are fascinating rock paintings of deer, cranes, wild boar and hunters with dogs. The tombs, cut by hand from the limestone, are visible close by.

Good walking shoes are advised and

walkers should be aware that ticks are present in most of the country areas where cattle and deer roam. The walk to the cave and tombs will take about 20 minutes from the hut.

Admission to the site is free.

If you look around the general area you may be lucky enough to see Short-toed Eagles that often perch upon pylons close to the reservoir. Over the hill lies the larger presa (dam) de Barbate, one of the largest reservoirs in the area, that holds breeding Ospreys. They can often be seen fishing across at the Embalse de Celemín.

Booted Eagles and large numbers of Griffon Vultures make up the bulk of the raptors in the area and watch out too for the stunning green, blue and yellow Ocellated Lizard, which can also be found sunning itself on stony ground. _______________________________________ The Cueva del Tajo de las Figuras is open Weds-Sun 9am-3pm, closed Mon, Tues and all public holidays

42

CASTING AROUND

The one that didn’t get away Tony Summers on the trials, tribulations and triumphs of freshwater fishing, Andalucían style

It’s more than 30 years since the orange tip of my peacock quill float bobbed once, then slipped away into the darkness of the River Lea in London.

I lifted my rod, the line tightened and I felt the frantic wriggle of life on the end of the line. It was my first fish – a perch, three or four inches long, a deep olive green with black stripes and big beady eyes.

My dad showed me how to remove the hook, just as his dad had in the same spot many years before, and the mysterious creature was returned to the water. I was seven years old. I remember it as if it were yesterday.

The perch was not the only thing that got hooked that day.

The event marked the beginning of a passion for angling that still burns deeply. It’s a strange obsession – one that can make you come close to crashing the car every time you spot some water out of the corner of your eye.

When I moved to Spain, more than six years ago, getting an Andalucían rod licence was something of a challenge that included 24 hours of studying on a course run only in Spanish.

At that time, I didn’t think my Spanish was up to this, so in the end, I managed to get round it by a long drawn-out process of presenting my UK rod licences instead.

The bad news is that the Junta de Andalucía’s medio ambiente department have now stopped issuing licences to Britons on production of a British licence. The good news, however, is that after many hours of phone calls and several meetings I have managed to find an English speaking delegate who would be willing to run the official course for English speakers in the area.

The licence Licences can be secured for a period of one, three or five years.

I’ve always bought the five year one, which costs around €30. A surcharge of 50 per cent can be paid to include fishing for trout.

The maximum amount of rods allowed for fishing is two. Night fishing is illegal throughout Spain.

Licences are regional so once you have one you can fish in all seven provinces of Andalucía.

By law you also have to take out an insurance policy to indemnify against accident or injury to others. I got mine through AXA, although most mainstream brokers sell the policy. It is renewable annually and costs around €14.

Don’t even think about trying to fish without a licence. This is classed as a very serious offence and fines are between €4,001 and €53,500.

Where to fish The lakes at Arcos and Bornos both hold good heads of carp and barbel.

Black bass complement the stock as predators. The Spanish do take the fish away to eat and, unlike England, they are allowed to do so.

The embalses at Barbate and Celemin (near Benalup) have similar stockings, although I have found Barbate to be more prolific, particularly around the area of the dam. Here, with friends, I’ve enjoyed big bags of carp and barbel in the warmer months. Fifty to a hundred fish in a day per person is not uncommon. The average size of the fish is between 0.5kg and 3kg (1-7lb).

Other spots worth a look on the Rio Barbate are in the valley below Benalup and the stretch of the same river in front of the Barca de Vejer. (Be careful with the cactuses as you go down though!)

All the usual baits work: bread, corn, luncheon meat. I’ve even caught on chorizo and prawns.

With bait like that, expect funny looks from the Spanish, particularly when you return the fish to the water.

For my bigger fish I’ve had to travel further afield, to the northern reaches of Seville and

into the Extremadura region. The lakes I fish in these areas hold much bigger specimens, particularly those in Extremadura. I have seen photos of barbel weighing 20kg (45lb), pike of up to 17kg (around 38lb), tench of 4kg (around 9lb) and carp of 34kg (around 70lb). Big fish.

In the early days, my sorties into Extremadura were very hit and miss. Since then I have located an English-run fishing guide service in the area. I would highly recommend this kind of service to anyone considering Extremadura.

As well as placing you in the right areas they’ll even provide you with the right bait and tackle.

If you get your licence sorted, there is some fantastic fishing to be had here, with stunning scenery for a backdrop and better weather than back in Blighty. Enjoy it and, of course, tight lines!

For more information on guided tours, arranging courses or licences in Andalucía and Extremadura contact Tony Summers on 650 162 696 or email tony@laluzmag.com

44

Stewart Pitcher trained in agriculture and was a farm manager by profession before starting up his gardening business here several years ago. He lives near Vejer

gardening

annual´s life cycle starts in autumn, using the winter months to build up volume and burst into flower in spring, as do most bulbous plants. By July, most growth and flowering is finished in annuals, and the countryside has lost its eclectic splendour and takes on the classic cinnamon and dusty green hues of southern Spain.

Heat and dust July is often the hottest month of the year in Andalucía – the month of levantes and scorching, relentless sunshine. Indigenous plants survive these conditions with waxy or hairy leaves with a reflective silver tint, or by dying back to deeply buried bulbs or tuber roots. An

Traditionally, the Costa de la Luz has always been renowned for its strong winds and unpredictable rainfall. Thus crops like olives, carob, nispero, figs, winter wheat and winter sugar beet were all grown here well before the advent of decorative gardens, pools and lawns. So when planning your garden, look for plants that are suited to winter growth and have decorative survival strategies such as glossy, thick leaves and grey felt to see them through their summer dormancy.

Some of the plants in your garden will now require special attention to keep them healthy through the summer. Pay particular attention to new arrivals that may not have had time to establish themselves before the soil dries out. Make a little well (acolchado) around the base of each plant. If it becomes distressed, try to create some shade from the sun and wind.

As the annual grasses die off, we need to start to water our lawns.

The typical lawn-grass (gramón) used here is a perennial, hard-wearing ground-cover which colonises by creeping stolons. It is very droughtresistant once established, and often can be invasive. Watered and fed regularly, it will stay emerald-green all summer. Where water is scarce the grass can be left to ‘yellow off’ as a sprinkle once a week is often enough to maintain an old lawn if you don’t mind it looking a bit more natural in the hottest months. As we are all aware, water is an ever more scarce commodity, and possibly in the near future we will not be able to permit ourselves the luxury of a rolling lawn while the countryside around us is yellow and burnt.

Pick of the bunch

Umbrella Wort

Abelia

Marigold

Mirabilis jalapa

Abelia grandiflora

Tagetes patula

Look around, by the sides of the roads and in rubble on building sites for this attractive tropical American plant, also known as ‘Four o clock plant’, as its pretty red, pink, white or yellow flowers open in the afternoon and close by morning. Marvel of Peru, as it’s also known, is very easy to grow as all it needs is well-drained soil, loves hot sun and thrives in drought conditions once established.

Propagation is possible by digging up tubers in winter or you could collect seeds from different coloured plants you find throughout summer and scattering them in patches or pots in winter for a pretty summer display.

From a family of about 30 deciduous and evergreen shrubs, abelia grandiflora is a reliable asset to any garden with its glossy, red-green leaves and pretty white flowers followed by russet calyces which last for weeks. In ideal conditions (deep soil with some protection from the midday sun), abelias become quite drought tolerant. They are healthy, always attractive and invaluable for long lasting autumn bloom. It can withstand heavy pruning so it is ideal for low hedging.

Propagation is easy from cuttings in late summer, the plant can also be part uprooted and divided in winter.

This is a tough,cheerful flower ideal for pots on your patio or windowsill. Introduced via France from Mexico in the 17th century, this annual was valuable and rare at the time of discovery. Now it is among the most familiar of all the summer flowers. It’s fast growing, and has double flower heads in red, yellow and orange which contrast with the dark green aromatic leaves. ‘Disco orange’ is a miniature strain developed in the Seventies with weather-resistant bright orange flowers.

Varieties such as tagete minuta (Stinking Roger) are said to exude substances fatal to soil-borne pests, leading to their use as companion plants in the huerta.

LALUZ19 | JULY-AUGUST 2007

45

Grand design Hedges

Unfortunately, every garden has to have a boundary, be it the brick wall of a town garden, a chain-link fence around a plot of land or simply a line of trees which separates one field from another. A hedge can be planted to hide an ugly wall or building, provide intimacy or create a wind-break.

For high hedges, the cypress (cupressus) is hard to beat. Well suited to heavier soils, if it is kept well pruned and maintained it will reach an acceptable height and density within three or four years. Alternatively, on sandy soils, the local siempre verde soon establishes itself into a prettier hedge, with white flowers and plenty of berries for the birds.

When planting against walls take into account the way the wall faces – is there sun all day, in the morning or only in the afternoon, or is the wall in semi-permanent shade? Your

Seasonal tips July As the levante and the summer sun take their toll on our gardens, watering becomes the major task of the month. Make a watering schedule, to ensure the garden is being watered evenly. Drip systems work better than the conventional hosepipe and use less water too. Check the sprinklers for the grass. By now you should note any inefficiencies by dry patches appearing on your lawn. In the huerta, clear away spent crops, manure, and sow cabbage, cauli and radishes and carrots for the autumn.

August Still hot, keep watering and mowing. Make sure any new trees are well watered in to encourage healthy root growth. August is the month for summer cuttings: see last issue for tips

planting selection depends on this.

For a very sunny position, try hibiscus or bougainvillea to give a splash of colour.

Ipomeas (morning glory family) and tropaeolum (nasturtiums) love a sunny morning and appreciate a break in the afternoon whereas Jasmine and dama de noche like the late sunshine to release their rich scent. Shady walls look nice planted with ivy and underplanted with Arum lillies, Amaryllis and Irises.

There are plants that will withstand almost any exposure. Where others have failed, you could plant Tamarix, a pretty native shrub, and Metrosideros, which has big, waxy leaves and red flowers in full summer.

On big sites, planting in clumps on open areas can serve as an effective wind break.

Mix cañas, gorse and lantana in coastal

on what to try and how. Often cracks appear in the soil or even in your lawn due to moisture loss on heavy land. Try to fill them where possible,as they cause even more moisture loss at root depth.

Keeping the soil regularly worked prevents this problem occuring. The end of the summer is an ideal time to sow onions, leeks, carrots and lettuce.

Readers’ queries Q. Any suggestions for something to grow on my windowsill to help screen an unattractive view?

It gets the afternoon sun so it´s hot in the summer. Cathy Benson, Conil A. Firstly, windows can become sun-traps, so you must ensure there is always adequate water for the

zones, further inland use the invincible oleander, Cape Honeysuckle (tecomaria) and pampas grass (Cortaderia).

Ideally, the planting of your hedge should be carried out in winter or spring when the soil is workable and the weather is more clement. Prepare the area you want to plant preferably with a rotivator to eradicate as many weeds as possible, then work in a rich compost or manure. Most hedges are planted with 60cm spaces between plants and the hedge is made thicker by planting in two staggered rows. Once in, the plants should be well watered until they have established, preferably daily by a drip system.

Don’t forget about the new plants and give them some fertilizer every time you feed the lawn, and you can expect growth of about 30cm a year.

plant as small pots dry out very quickly. Put a saucer under each pot to stop run-off and give it some reserves to draw on. You can also line the pots with bubble-wrap to keep the soil cooler.

Using larger pots will also reduce water loss.

Suitable plants that will climb window-bars happily from pots are the perrenial ipomea alba or ipomea cairica, or the annual nasturtium for its showy flowers and quick rampant growth. This can be replaced with ivy pelargonium and chrysanthemums for summer flowers. Scrambling from behind bars, abelia grandiflora looks nice all year and will quickly fill a window with colour.

Readers are invited to share their gardening and design problems or ideas by sending them to editor@laluzmag.com or Apdo de Correos 39, 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz

46

property

This five-bed villa with pool and mature gardens close to La Barrosa beach in Chiclana is on sale at €440,750 with Andaluz Homes

Dipping a toe in the water Tony Jefferies looks at the options when it comes to buying that yearned for home by the sea on a coast which is as diverse as it is long Maybe it’s that old ‘island’ thing. Britain is surrounded by sea, lots of Britons live close to the sea and lots more spend their holidays by the sea.

So it’s no surprise that, when it comes to buying in Spain, proximity to the briny is a priority.

Let’s face it, if natural beauty and price were the only factors, Extremadura would be full of English pubs and Tesco franchises by now.

The property market along Spain’s eastern and southern coastal strip has been booming for years – though over-building and market forces have seen a slowdown recently.

Here on the Costa de la Luz, though, the wild construction excesses of the neighbouring Costa del Sol have not and – it seems – never will be visited upon us.

Stricter planning rules, a disinclination to concrete over

everything within two miles of the sea and, crucially, the locals’ appreciation of their good fortune in having this stunning coastline at their disposal, all militate against high-rise, high-density shoreline hotels and apartments.

From Tarifa to Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the coastal strip is dotted with real towns and communities and what development goes on is (largely) wellcontrolled and sensible.

All of which means that realising that dream of a little place by the sea is not the simplest of tasks.

Firstly, there aren’t that many properties which fit the bill and secondly, you’ll pay a premium.

But everything’s relative, and even now prices are considerably lower than on the Costa del Sol, for example. What’s more, the market in this part of south-west Spain is still pretty buoyant.

Glyn Lewis, of Andaluz Homes,

thinks so: “As far as we’re concerned it’s business as usual,” he says. “The market is not crashing, simply going through a regional slow-down, so that properties are now being sold for realistic market values.

“People will continue to buy here on the Costa de la Luz because it differs completely from other parts of Spain and, for that matter, the rest of ‘sunshine’ Europe.”

Traditionally, high summer has seen a slow down in the sales market, as the emphasis shifts to the beach. But, says Carolina Arlt, of Grupo Cepheus in El Puerto de Santa María, more and more buyers are looking to combine a summer holiday with the chance to pick out a future base.

“Inland properties don’t go so well at this time, but the temporary population increase in coastal areas makes the market here very

busy. Spaniards, especially, like to look at properties when they are on holiday here, but foreigners, also, are following the trend.”

And what are they looking at in between lounging at the chiringuito and lying on the beach?

“The Spanish are interested in the first line next to the beach, apartments, family houses and chalets,” she says. “They like builtup areas with plenty of facilities nearby such as shops and supermarkets. They’re not really interested in restored or rural properties.

“On the other hand, foreigners and especially British people like restored property. Of course, they like the interior of the province but they also like older coastal properties in places like El Puerto.”

Further south, around Chiclana, the seaside residence of choice for extranjeros is a villa with a garden and pool, while in Tarifa, the choice

48

PROPERTY

This large villa with two further guest houses in its extensive grounds has wonderful sea views and is in Cuarton, near Tarifa. It’s being offered at €1.8 million through Marbella to Marrakech property finders

is either an apartment in a new development or (if you have an arm and a leg to spare) a townhouse.

Difficult to find somewhere to stick your windsurfer wherever you choose.

Ana Davidson of Marbella to Marrakech property finders, says there’s a developing market for the Spanish owners of coastal properties to sell up and invest in a rustic finca with some land.

“They are beginning to be aware that lying on the beach is not, nowadays, necessarily the best option for a family holiday,” she says. “These seaside properties are quickly snapped up by foreigners, though many of them are sold through word of mouth.”

Of course golf plays its part as a deciding factor, too. There’s plenty of demand for large and small golf villas in and around areas as diverse as Sancti Petri and Sanlúcar.

“The golf market often buys offplan or newly-built property, but expects a high standard of finish,” says Ana Davidson. “A competitive property should definitely have en suite bedrooms and location is also important, while swimming pools or ease of access to a communal one is essential.”

It doesn’t seem to matter if you’re just a towel’s length away from one of the many golden-sand beaches, pools are still a must.

“They definitely add value to a property and make it more saleable, even beachfront properties,” says Carolina Arlt.

“Terraces and gardens are

Finca near Vejer with a main house, three gust properties, terraces and landscaped pool €899,000 with Andaluz Homes

important, too, as well as access and facilities. But for many people it’s a pool above everything.”

Glyn Lewis thinks location beats everything. “Proximity to towns or shops and restaurants is the main thing and next on my list is access or approach roads. Gardens count, too, and though a pool is important, it can be added later if a buyer likes the property – as long as there’s space.

“Another key factor is that being close to the beach puts you in the top bracket of the rental market.

These are always the properties

rented first, and the can charge a premium.

“Capital growth in this area is around 10 per cent, which is good and steady, but rental yields continue to grow and there is a record volume of high-season bookings this year, so it does pay to use a property out of high season then cash in on the holiday period,” he adds.

This, of course, suits the second-home owner to a tee. Fulltime residents might not want to be swamped in July and August, in which case quieter areas – within

Two-bed apartments in this tastefully converted palace in the centre of El Puerto are going for €252,425 through Grupo Cepheus

striking distance of the beach but away from immediate facilities – are a good bet.

Chiclana, Conil, Tarifa, El Puerto – all have their quiet zones, though if you really don’t like the buzz of a resort, pack your bags on July 1 and rent yourself a cottage high in the sierras until the last day of August. Otherwise, come on in – the water’s lovely. _____________________________ andaluzhomes.com grupocepheus.com marbellatomarrakech.com

These high-quality properties close to La Fontanilla beach in Conil are selling now at €520,000 through Grupo Cepheus

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In general, directors may become jointly and separately liable to the company, the shareholders and the creditors for any act or omission which is considered to be: a) Contrary to the provisions of the respective Spanish acts governing the Sociedades Anónimas and the Sociedades Limitadas b) Contrary to the provisions of any other binding law c) Contrary to the relevant company’s by-laws or d) In breach of their duties owed to the company Outlined below are just a few examples of actions or situations which could land a company director in trouble: • Mismanagement of the company’s share capital • Failure to comply with the company’s by-laws • The abusive or inadmissible distribution of dividends • Providing incorrect or incomplete information to shareholders or clients • Failure to prepare and submit the company’s accounts to the general shareholders’ meetings for approval and/or to file such accounts (once approved) at the Mercantile Registry • Failure to adapt the corporate documents governing the life of the company to current legislation • Assuming obligations which the company will not be able to comply with • Competing with the company, unless there is prior authorisation by the general shareholders meeting • Failure to promote the company’s dissolution in case of insolvency In principle, directors cannot absolve their liability, even if an action or decision of a director is adopted, authorised or ratified by a general shareholders’ meeting of the company.

However, a director will not be considered liable for the acts of other directors where it can be shown that: • He/she was unaware of the relevant act/decision of the other director(s) (for a reason other than his/her absence from a board meeting); or • Being aware of the relevant act/decision, he/she took all reasonable measures to prevent it from taking place, or (at least) expressly opposed the relevant board resolution Delegating any of the powers of a director (or the board of directors) to another director or to an employee (for example, the chief executive officer) does not necessarily imply absolution of the director’s liability.

When things go wrong Corporate liability and debt In certain specified situations, the directors are jointly and separately liable for all of the company’s debts, if the directors fail to call the required shareholders’ meeting or fail to file a petition for the winding up of the company (i.e. the company’s losses have reduced the company’s net worth to an amount which is below 50 per cent of its subscribed share capital amount, and the share capital is not restored to the required level).

Insolvency liability A decision issued by the judge, in which the company’s insolvency is classified as accidental or guilty; the judge can order the directors to pay the creditors any amount owed to them if not entirely satisfied in the liquidation procedure.

Tax liability The company directors will become personally liable for the outstanding tax debts of the company upon a tax infringement (infracción), where the directors fail to undertake the necessary acts to comply with the company’s tax obligations.

Criminal liability there are a range of corporate criminal offences that could be committed by a director of a company such as forging corporate documents, abusive resolutions, harmful resolutions, breach of shareholders’ rights, breach of obligation to cooperate with any relevant authority etc which all carry separate and unique penalties.

De facto directors You may hear or read the phrase ‘de facto director’. but what exactly does this mean and what are their obligations?

A de facto director is one whose appointment has expired and has not been renewed; or who has not formally been appointed as director, but appears before third parties acting in good faith. the de facto directors can be liable in similar terms as regularly appointed directors.

As can be seen from Diego’s comments, the prestige that company directorship brings comes with a significant level of personal responsibility and liability and this legislation, as with many others, is constantly under review to ensure that customer and employee confidence remains as high as possible. _______________________________________________________________ For more information and advice about company directorships, contact Diego or any of his colleagues at IRWIN MITCHELL ABOGADOS on 0034 952 857 630 or e-mail diego.ferreiro@irwinmitchell.com

50

experts

Advice is limited to general statements on finance, property and legal matters. Always check with your financial adviser or abogado if you need specific advice on these matters

tax LEÓN FERNANDO DEL CANTO

finance COLIN LANGTON

A partner of C-International Tax Legal. He has worked as a tax adviser in the UK for Deloitte and previously KPMG. He is qualified both as a Spanish abogado and an English barrister. www.c-international.es Tel: 952 858 553

Chairman of Langton’s Financial Planners, Sotogrande, Colin has worked in the financial sector for 40 years. He has also been a recognized expert witness for the UK Law Society. Langtons (IFA) Spain branch is regulated along with its UK offices. Tel: Freephone 900 800 667; e-mail colin.langton@langtonsspain.com

H Booker, Chepstow I am planning to buy a house near Arcos de la Frontera with a view to spending part of the year there when I retire. What exactly is the wealth tax that I have to pay and does it make any difference if I am resident or non-resident?

The three main issues that you will need to look at when becoming tax resident in Spain are income tax, wealth tax and inheritance tax as the three of them will be applicable to you.

The position with income tax is that your worldwide income will be taxable in Spain. There is a double tax treaty with the UK covering income tax which is important to consider if you are receiving a pension or any other income from Britain.

Regarding inheritance tax, it is important to note that your property in Spain and your property in the UK, and any other assets worldwide, will be taxable in Spain too. There is no double tax treaty covering inheritance tax with the UK and this is something to consider from a tax planning point of view.

Finally, in respect of applicable wealth tax, the rule is that only your net assets calculated at the end of the tax year are subject to this tax, meaning net value of your assets less any debts you may have at December 31st of any given year. This includes your house and all other movable or

immovable assets. The statutory definition of assets includes jewellery, vehicles, boats, planes and antiques.

Regarding antiques and art works there are certain exemptions according to the value; for example a painting less than a hundred years old and with a value of under €90,151.82 will be exempted.

So, the question for the majority of us is ‘how much will I pay for my house?’. The answer is that in Andalucía, this being a regionally regulated tax, the first €108,182.18 is exempted and if you have some physical disability considered as a statutory limitation the exemption goes up to €250,000 per person.

The rest of the value of the total assets is taxed according to a table, which start at 0.2 per cent for the first €167,129.45 up to 2.5 per cent after €10.6 million. The tax is payable annually and the net value of the assets should be assessed every year.

Non residents are taxed in the same way but no exemption is available to them.

If you have any questions for our panel of experts, send them to: laluz magazine Apdo de Correos 39 , Vejer de la Frontera, 11150 Cádiz Or e-mail editor@laluzmag.com

At the time of writing, world stockmarkets continue to perform well, despite the trend for higher interest rates. A fall of 20 per cent typically happens every five or so years and on this basis one could be due.

So why is capital presentation so important? Well if you lose 20% of your money you have to make 40 per cent to get back to where you started from. This is quite a target so it is better not to lose it in the first place.

Our way of safeguarding your investments is to go for a blend of asset classes which are not correlated. So if, say, shares and bonds fall, then commodities, property, hedge funds, etc, can rise. This strategy has produced excellent long term historic results for investors.

Another example of capital preservation is this: I put £20,000 of my own pension money (SIPP) in a leading commodity fund two years ago and I have seen some 80 per cent growth to date. While commodities are a higher risk strategy, this fund carries a 100 per cent capital guarantee so long as I hold it for four years.

R Bright by e-mail I have been offered 14 per cent guaranteed interest if I deposit £100,000 with the export finance programme for six months.

It seems totally safe as my money is lodged with the UK VAT office.

Can you advise me?

• We have done our own due diligence on the provider and have made some recommendations to improve the security of clients’ funds prior to them going to the VAT office. I understand they are acting on this advice. This is a non regulated product, but subject to this we are prepared to recommend it for the right person.

M Taylor, Leeds I am Spanish resident. Can you explain the tax position of UK or offshore insurance bonds which I am considering investing in with money I currently have on bank deposit?

• You certainly do not want a UK-based insurance bond as the insurance company there pays about 30 per cent tax and you get no credit for this personally. An offshore bond, on the other hand, gives you tax-free ‘roll up’, that is, tax-free returns. You simply pay 18 per cent Spanish tax on profits as you draw them. So, if you invest €100,000 and draw €10,000 each year as ‘income’ on which to live, you will only pay tax on the element which is gain. If €1,000 of the €10,000 is gain, you will therefore pay €180 tax.

W Armstrong by e-mail I understand mortgage interest rates vary a lot between lenders. I am paying €1,000 per month on a repayment mortgage and want to reduce my costs by moving to interest only. My lender cannot help. Any suggestions?

• Rates do vary a lot, but until now to move from one lender to another has not been practical in Spain – the reason being the costs can be colossal (notary fees and others). Thanks to a new product from a major lender, switching mortgages is now a real option as they pick up all the fees, even valuation fee.

The value of investments can fall as well as rise and if you take a mortgage your home may be at risk if you do not keep up your mortgage repayments.

52

EXPERTS

property CHRIS MERCER

legal MARTÍN J. GARCÍA MARICHAL

Director of Mercers Ltd, Chris has 24 years of experience in selling freehold Spanish properties. As a member of the National Association of Estate Agents (NAEA) and the European Confederation of Estate Agents (CEI) he is often asked to contribute to newspaper and magazine articles. With offices in the UK, Murcia, Vejer and Jerez, Mercers is one of the longest businesses established Spanish property

The English-speaking manager of Grupo Atela law firm in Chiclana, Martín José has been a member of the Law Society of Cádiz since 1991. Specialising in urban planning law, he acts as advisor to several companies and is deputy secretary of Cádiz Football Club.

Tel: 956 534 194; e-mail martin@grupoatela.com

David Edwards, Reading I am thinking of buying a property in the Costa de la Luz / Cádiz region but due to the recent negative publicity regarding Spanish property in the British press, I am worried that I may have missed the boat.

David Burnham, Exeter My wife and I are coming to the Costa de la Luz later this year to look for a property to buy. Can you guide us through the legal process, and is it advisable to give power of attorney to a local lawyer?

When it comes to property purchase, I really do not think there are many cases where you will miss the boat, unless you are an investor looking to make a ‘quick buck’ and get out. If that is the case I would look to Romania or somewhere equally risky.

If you are looking to buy a property because you like this area and are not concerned with maximising your investment in the shortest possible time but would like to see it grow steadily in value then this is the area for you.

The Costa de la Luz (both inland and coastal) does not have the sheer volume of properties that the other, more established costas have. This has a potential two fold advantage: • Due to the relatively low amount and size of new developments, we should not see an over supply of property on the market • The low volume of properties available means rental values should be fairly healthy and, if marketed effectively, the occupancy rate should be good

First at all, it is advisable to check not only that the configuration of the property but also its condition reflect what you expected. If it is a new property, you need to be sure what the price includes (full cleaning, including paint and cement removing, connection of services – that sort of thing) in order to reflect this in the contract.

If it’s not a new property, and depending on its age, sometimes it is advisable to commission a structural report from an independent surveyor.

It helps to have a locally based law firm in order to get a full professional service. Don´t forget that we are talking about a big investment, and there is a lot of paperwork including public deeds, local taxes payment, location plan, Land Registry, supplies contract, etc.

The way forward after this will depend on the content of those documents. At this stage, checking the planning situation in the local

We know from clients in Jerez who rent out apartments that demand is exceeding supply. This is great news and shows that more and more people are looking at alternatives to the traditional markets.

With my ‘investor’s’ hat on I see a very good future for property in this region. I have a particular interest as I invest where we sell.

Believe me, I would not do this if I thought it was not a good idea.

Also I adhere to the principle that property purchase/investment should always be looked at on a long term basis. A property might increase by 10 per cent in one year but imagine what the value could be in five years, if you add the capital gain and any rental income generated.

M Walker by e-mail I have a Spanish will, but I have been advised to take out Spanish funeral insurance. Can’t I just leave an amount of money for the funeral in my will as I would do in the UK?

insurance RAFAEL SAMPEDRO IZQUIERDO Represents Catalana Occidente, the biggest independent insurance group in Spain. He speaks five languages, including English and German, and is a professor at the University of Málaga. He specialises in financial and insurance advice for both companies and individuals and has many British clients. Tel: 659 293 766; e-mail rafsaiz@gmail.com

There are three important reasons why you should have funeral cover in Spain.

Firstly, getting the will read can take weeks. But in two to four days the funeral will have to be organised, so the money will arrive late. Another question is the paperwork. Spanish bureaucracy requires many documents that you will have to provide in a short time.

Secondly, never forget that you are in a foreign country. Money is not always the solution. There will be things you don’t expect or understand, but you’ll have to do. It

is hard having to cope with a funeral and it is even worse to do it with people who probably have very little knowledge of English and who expect things to be done according to the local traditions.

Most Spaniards have funeral insurance, whereby the company arranges the funeral and the family and friends don’t have to do anything, leaving them time and space to grieve without having to deal with practicalities.

Thirdly, money. An insurance company pays about €3,500 for a funeral; if you are a private person you will have to pay at least double.

So why do you need to think about this now? Luckily nobody knows when they will need this kind of insurance, so it is better to be aware and prevent any problems. Also, the older you get, the harder it is to find a company to

urbanization plan is very important.

Assuming that everything is in order, the next step will be to draft a contract, which will include the full details of the agreement and some special clauses to guarantee that your rights will be protected. We also have to advise on the tax implications, whether or not you should become resident in Spain, and to get your NIE (an identification number for foreigners). The last step will be signing the public deeds, the payment of taxes and expenses, and applying for inscription at the Land Registry.

Therefore – and even if you are living in Spain during the purchase – in my opinion it is advisable to give power of attorney to your lawyer. If the law firm you have chosen is able to manage the full process, then when the process is completed you will have in your hands the title deeds for your new house in Spain, secure in the knowledge that everything was managed in a professional way.

give you funeral insurance. When you are over 60 it begins to be difficult to find funeral cover and many companies don’t accept anybody after 65.

Another reason to sort this out early is that you will pay less if you start young and you will get discounts with the renewals.

The funeral insurance seguro de decesos is the most common insurance product in Spain. Many companies offer it and you can be sure you will get a good service.

However be aware of who offers it to you – it should be done through a professional.

It is important to ask about cover when you first take out the policy (what is known as the waiting period) and the possibility of repatriation back to the UK if you wish. The conditions can vary from company to company.

54

cooking culture Everyone’s favourite cover story Colette Bardell travels to three of the region’s great cities in her unstinting efforts to find the best tapas money can – or can’t – buy ALL PHOOS: HECTOR HERRERA

A less romantic, though more plausible suggestion is that the practice evolved as a snack to nourish farm workers who breakfasted before dawn and had a long wait till lunch.

The origins of tapas, a quintessentially Spanish way of eating, are now long lost but that doesn’t stop passionate claims of provenance from various parts of the country.

Everyone seems agreed that tapa comes from the verb tapar (to cover) and most accept that Andalucía was the birthplace of a way of life - the first tapas were probably placed over a glass of sherry or wine to keep off the flies.

Seville is believed to be where tapas originated, though it is also suggested that King Alfonso XII stopped at a venta in Cádiz province for a sherry, which arrived topped with a slice of ham to protect it from sand blown from a nearby beach. The king was so impressed he ordered a second wine, “with the same cover”.

Other claimants assert that 16th century tavern owners in Nuevo Castilla (Castilla La Mancha) discovered strong smelling mature cheese was a handy way of disguising or ‘covering’ a bad wine, so began offering it free to off load their cheap plonk.

However, it could be down to King Alfonso X (The Wise) who, having had to take small morsels of food with wine between meals to help an illness, when recovered, decreed that no wine should be served in inns without food.

This wise act was to counteract drunkenness particularly of the poor who did not have enough money to buy a meal and so drank on empty stomachs.

The art of tapas Authentic tapas is not just a way of eating but a symbol of the Spanish land and its people.

It is a representation of the Spanish attitude to living. To ‘go for tapas’ is, of course, to eat and drink but perhaps more importantly, to socialise and be part of the community.

The tapas bar is where society meets – the young mix with the old, the rich with the poor, the mechanic with the bank manager, parents with their teenagers; they all rub along together. Pretentious distinctions are left for more formal restaurants.

The ideal way to enjoy the theatre of tapas, for that is what it is with its changing scenes of different bars and different characters, is to go in a group. Four to six makes a good number for plate sharing and moving around without losing anyone.

Going on a tapa crawl you see the life of the bars spill out onto the surrounding streets and plazas. There’s a feeling of conviviality as friends happen upon each other and stop for a quick charla’, or chat, before continuing on their way, or maybe changing plans and teaming up with those they’ve just met. The only agenda is to eat, drink and be happy on the ‘camino de tapas’. Tasty delicacies are taken para picar, food to be picked at not gorged on, ideally whilst standing up, itself an acquired skill.

Tapas etiquette Tapas is seen as a snack or aperitif, sometimes eaten pre-lunch or pre-dinner, but just as often replacing these meals. A true tapa is a small, easy to handle, food snack perfect for one. When sharing, it’s normal to order several different types at the same time. For bigger sharing portions order media raciones (half servings) or raciones (full servings).

Eating slowly, taking small, fork-size portions not only shows respect for your fellow tapeadores but helps pace your eating, which on a long night of a ruta de la tapa is essential. An upturned fork on the edge of the plate lets everyone know you’ve not quite

finished but you take just enough to make sure there’s plenty for all.

Tapas enthusiasts recommend eating no more than two tapas per bar to take full advantage of what’s on offer around the town – the aim is to keep the scene moving along.

Conversation is an integral part of the tapas ritual. Spaniards expect it to flow easily like the food and wine. This is not the time to take friends to task on world politics.

Traditionally, for most Spaniards, to show signs of drunkenness was an unpardonable indiscretion and eating tapas helps counterbalance the alcohol intake. It’s a good idea to stick with the same drink all night, which should ideally be a local one.

Depending where you are in the country that could be fino in Andalucía, cava in Catalunya, rioja in northern Spain and sidra (cider) in Asturias, though in reality, today many drink lower alcohol-content beer and wines from where ever they please.

Bills are paid convidá (from convidar – to invite), a round system with each member of the party picking up the whole tab in one bar on the route. Not ‘inviting’ the group, in other words not paying your way, is seen as very bad form.

There was a time when, on entering a bar, if the floor was strewn with the remains of cigarette butts, used napkins and stray bits of food, you knew immediately you’d hit the jackpot. A messy floor meant a popular bar and a bar was only popular if the food was good. Sadly, in these days of food inspector hygiene, this spit and sawdust tradition is dying away.

Tapas capitals Although good and unfortunately, at times, bad tapas can be found in Andalucía’s thousands of bars, three provincial capitals stand out for their approach to the culture of tapas.

Jaen and Granada These are the last remaining areas in the south that continue the tradition of La Rastra – giving a free tapa with the first drinks order.

The idea is to serve you something good for free when you arrive in the hope you’ll stay and order more for which you pay.

Locals in these cities are not only

Jamon bagel with ali-oli (garlic mayonnaise)

Carne en salsa

Huevos con gambas al pil-pil (eggs with prawns in a hot sauce)

Gambas fritas

Espinacas janense – spinach with hot almonds

Razor clams with a little lemon

Salmorejo (a thicker version of gazpacho)

Jamón Serrano

Atún con pimientos

Revueltos de gambas y espárragos

Berejenas fritas con miel (fried aubergine with honey)

Bacalao con rábano (radish) y aceite de oliva virgen

Migas (fried breadcrumbs) con ajo

Patatas a lo pobre

Carne en salsa de tomate

Mojama (dried tuna)

56

COOKING CULTURE

accustomed to this freestyle eating but are also connoisseurs of good tapas and know the best places. This means bar owners are on a constant quest to outdo each other for trade, so keep an eye on quality, creativity and choice.

Seville Seville vies with Granada for the prize of best tapas city. Its many bars, like those of its rival, pride themselves on reinventing the tapas genre and providing top quality dishes to keep the discerning sevillanos coming back.

Cádiz A total of 42 bars and restaurants in the city of Cádiz are taking part in this year’s Ruta del Tapeo between July 7th and September 9th, when special menus will be on offer. Customers can vote for the best establishment and best tapa. Details of participating venues from the Tourist Office on the Paseo de Canalejas or tel: 956 241 001

Tapeando in...

Cádiz Bar Restaurante El 10 de Veedor C/ Veedor. More than 20 tapas on display and more produced by the kitchen from 1.80€

Jerez Bar La Cruz Blanca This traditional bar has had a facelift by a returning Jerezana that honed her cooking skills in Cataluna. A popular locals’ haunt. Best dish revueltos con berejenas y gamas. Serves vintage sherries and different Spanish wines by the glass.

Corner of C/ Consistorio 16 and Plaza de Yerba 956 32 45 35

Bar Soprani C/ Soprani 5 The latest addition to the trendy tapas scene of cadiz.

Juanito Area Plaza Arenal (Main sq) for the best tapas head off the square on left hand side for the traditional bars of this one time gypsy barrio or to the right down an alley for good but more touristy offerings.

El Balandro This bar specilises in large size tapas and creative presentation from around 4€ a plate. Speciality beef fillets in Pedero Jemenez gravy with pine nuts & raisins served with mustard potatoes.

Countywide selection of wines by the glass.

Gallo de Azul C/ Larga. Easy to find with its huge Pedro Domecq sign in lights at the top of the building.

A good selection of creatively presented tapas.

57

eating out

La Torre El Palmar

Pudding on the style from surf to turf La Terraza de Sindhura Patria, La Muela Nestled in the hills between La Muela and Patria lies an oasis of calm in the form of Hotel Restaurant Sindhura.

Away from the summer madness and marcha of the coastal towns, you can enjoy views of the coastal plain running to the Atlantic and to the other side, the green, undulating countryside from which La Muela (the molar) gets its name.

La Terraza de Sindhura is now in its third year and the maturing flora has grown with the restaurant’s clientele and reputation. The patio where the Sunday lunch regulars enjoy their drinks and await their roasts is a riot of colour.

Owners Ana and Alejandro are passionate about the environment, and strive for beauty and tranquillity in everything they create, and chef Samantha Miller delivers a colourful, modern Spanish menu using only the finest regional ingredients.

During my recent trip my wife ordered a favourite of ours, scrambled egg with fresh spinach and sautéed tiger prawn, while I opted for parrillada de verduras – a plate of beautifully presented grilled vegetables which included, broccoli, cauliflower, courgettes and roasted red onion served with a strip of bacon.

From the main course we opted for meat and fish. The succulent lamb chops were thickly cut and came with fresh vegetables and a rosemary sauce on a potato rösti.

My seared fillet of salmon sat on a creamy potato bake, served with fresh vegetables and

Langoustine salad and (above) pumpkin soup and the cool patio at the Sindhura

garnished with chives and king prawn. Both dishes had the `wow!’ factor.

There is an adequate wine list to accompany and we chose a Ribera del Duero.

Too many good meals here end with the usual offering of flan, crema catalana or pudin, but at La Terrazza de Sindhura you don’t have to worry about this. The carta de postres is a delight for any sweet tooth and not a pudin in sight !

My wife had the signature dessert, a dish that Sindhura’s first chef used to prepare for the Queen of Belgium, and indeed it is fit for royalty: warm mille feuille with baked apples is a tower of delicate puff pastry pillows layered with apple sauce and cream.

I opted for the coffee and amaretto tiramisu.

Ana told me Italians have dined here and said this is the best tiramisu they have ever tasted. I believe it . This plate brings the Eighties favourite right into the 21st century.

A three course meal costs €30-€45 a head, depending on drinks.

Apart from à la carte, Sindhura offers two special menus, Sunday roast and Saturday lunchtime curry. Both are three courses with a drink and are priced at €20. TONY SUMMERS ______________________________________ La Terraza de Sindhura Take the La Muela turnoff from the new A48 dual carriageway near Vejer de la Frontera, and follow the signs. Open Tues-Fri 8.30pm-10.30pm, Sat/Sun 1.30pm3.30pm and 8.30pm-11.30pm. Closed Mon. Tel: 956 448 568 hotelsindhura.com

Restaurante La Torre is hard to miss.

It’s only a few metres from the recently (and rather quaintly) restored tower, close to the beach in the northern section of El Palmar. The tower, incidentally, contains a single curious piece of graffiti, which baldly states: ‘Turist you are terrorist’.

Don’t be put off by this unusual and rather sinister admonition, since the restaurant next door serves excellent food in an outstanding location.

There is a lively bar attached to the eating areas where you can enjoy a drink and raciones with Spanish holidaymakers as the hardworking serving staff dash back and forth from the kitchens.

The spacious interior comedor is available, but everyone wants a table on the outdoor covered patio, a few steps from one of the best beaches on the La Luz coast, with the Atlantic waves thundering just metres away from you.

We started with sopa marisco (fish soup) and gazpacho, both of which were excellent. We chose their paella (also well above average) with a bottle of the locally produced dry white Antonio Barbadillo. The bill for this, with a crema catalana (not, sadly, de casera) came to €44. There is a good selection of fish and meat on the menu, and the wine list also offers some high quality local products.

Be prepared for a relaxed lunch here; this is a popular place and we booked ahead for a table at 3pm. This is a particularly good venue for families with small children, who can alternate their eating with visits to the beach.

And after the bill is settled, you can stagger back to your umbrella for a well-earned snooze followed by a swim. DAVID MACGOWAN _________________________________ Restaurante La Torre, Playa de El Palmar, Vejer de la Frontera.

Follow signs to El Palmar from the A48 and head for the watchtower. Tel: 956 232 790

58

EATING OUT

El Menhir Torreguadiaro (Sotogrande) Some restaurants make you feel at ease straight away and this is one of them. The warm, terracotta-washed walls recall an Ibizan finca bathed in sunshine, so that you have to keep reminding yourself you are just minutes from the busy Sotogrande stretch of the N340.

An Argentinian restaurant with a strong Mediterranean twist, the recently opened El Menhir has romantic beginnings. It’s the

brainchild of three friends from Buenos Aires who shared a love affair with food and a single vision. The wooden floors, the elegant tables and chairs, even the atmospheric bathrooms are all fruits of their labour over the last six months.

Our starters included two large empanadas, one filled with meat the other with sweetcorn and peppers; both were warm and oozed filling and flavour. We shared the generous ensalada Menhir which came with three different types of lettuce, cherry tomatoes, strawberries and warm, caramelized ham croutons: simple yet startlingly refreshing.

For the main course the menu includes the typically succulent Argentinian meat grill, chorizo, sweetbreads and black pudding, with more exotic dishes to please the less carnivorous visitor such as grilled chicken cooked with prunes or butterfly sea bass with garlic chillies and olive oil.

But what makes this place really special are its vegetables; grilled, baked, creamed, filled, tossed in salads, with fruit, on their own – Argentinian restaurants are not known for offer such an imaginative selection of greens.

Dishes such as zucchini carpaccio (with pumpkin, oil and lemon), tarta de espinacas (with pine nuts and goats cheese) and the popular manichao spaghetti (whole grain spaghetti tossed in cream with soya & sautéd

spring vegetables) are proving a success with even the most committed of meat eaters.

Nevertheless, the solomillio de tenera was the choice for my dining companion while I chose the delicately sweet Pollo Menhir with mustard, apricots, raisins and sun-dried tomatoes.

The waiter recommended some simple roasted vegetables as an accompaniment and they arrived drizzled in olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt.

For dessert, intrigue (and gluttony) got the better of us and we went for la Bomba, of which all I can say is that it had biscuit, chocolate and dulce de leche all in one mouthful.

If cooking really is a form of expression then the chef at El Menhir is an artist not afraid of breaking through the Argentinian moral code of meat with an experimental approach. Using only fresh local produce (apart from the beef of course), this restaurant produces excellent food in a rustic setting. And with live music (from tango to local flamenco bands) every Tuesday evening, El Menhir is becoming a firm local favourite. YVONNE PARDO _______________________________________ El Menhir (Urb Punta Europa Bloque F, Local 5, Torreguadiaro. Tel: 956 616 565), open every night except Mondays from 8pm. Dinner for two roughly €45 each including wine

Spanish home cooking Gazpacho INGREDIENTS (serves four) 4 soft tomatoes; 1 green pepper 1/2 cucumber – peeled in alternate strips (one on, one off ) 1 glass extra virgin olive oil hard bread (half of one viena sized stick) 2 large spoons vinegar 1 tsp salt 1 clove garlic

The cook

laluz contributor Susana Mato learned this recipe for gazpacho from her mother in Seville where she grew up.

She now lives close to the beach near Barbate and says this is the perfect dish for the hot summer in Andalucía.

“Gazpacho contains all the vitamins you need. It’s really healthy. Eat it chilled on a summer’s day followed by fresh grilled fish to give you a complete balanced diet. It’s also really good food for your skin. For a diet version, replace the bread with two carrots.”

METHOD Pour two glasses of cold water over the bread. Cut the tomatoes into four pieces each and chop the rest of the ingredients. Place everything together in a mixer and process until the texture is soft and creamy. Chill in fridge before serving with some of the same ingredients (small pieces of tomato, pepper, cucumber) and also a chopped, hard-boiled egg.

59

Virgen del Carmen

Mr. Groovy & the Blue Heads

In praise of sardines

Miguel Bosé

laluz guide to what’s on HOLIDAYS AUGUST 15th

26th Feria in Algodonales (near Olvera)

summer celebrations. (confirm dates at a tourist office before setting out)

22nd

9th-12th

Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

While this is the only official holiday in July and August, expect services to be curtailed locally during ferias and fiestas

The people of Puerto Serrano (near Villamartín) head out on horseback, in decorated carriages and on foot to the Almendral chapel in honour of local patron Mary Magdalene

Feria in Jimena de la Frontera

FERIAS/FIESTAS

25th-29th

JULY 6th-8th

Processions, kids’ activities, sports competitions, music, fireworks and late nights in Benalup/Casas Viejas

26th-29th 12th-16th Feria del Carmen, Barbate. A flotilla of boats brings the effigy of ‘Our Lady’ on to land, plus four days of fun, eating and drinking

11th-16th San Fernando gets lit up for its own maritime and street celebrations of the Virgen del Carmen and of local product, salt

Feria in Algodonales (near Olvera) to celebrate local saint’s day

Fiestas in Villaluenga del Rosario

Street party time in Vejer de la Frontera – for two weeks

Feria in Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Carpets of salt, street processions in honour of the grape and wine as Sanlúcar holds its big summer bash

Bull-running, music and dance competitions, food (and drink) in Benaocaz (north of Ubrique)

AUGUST 2nd-5th

14th-19th

Four days of eating and street entertainment in honour of Rota’s most famous fish dish, the red-banded sea bream (urta a la roteña)

Nearly a week of sport, art, food, wine and music in Trebujena, culminating in the ‘bunch of grapes’ competition on 19th

4th-5th

15th

Flamenco and traditional dance in Castellar de la Frontera (between San Roque and Jimena)

The beautiful hill-top town of Olvera celebrates the feast day of its patron saint, Nuestra Señora de los Remedios

3rd-4th

15th-19th

Top-flight flamenco at the annual festival in the Plaza del Cabildo in Arcos de la Frontera

Puerto Serrano’s big summer celebrations

13th-22nd Processions, music and dance at La Línea de la Concepción’s big summer bash

12th-16th Flamenco, bull-running and more in the streets of Grazalema

Go back in time with the popular reenactment of the struggle between ‘Moors and Christians’ in Benamahoma, near Grazalema

16th Celebrations in honour of fishermen’s patron, the Virgen del Carmen, in (among others) Conil, Chiclana, El Puerto de Santa María, La Línea, Tarifa, Chipiona, San Roque, Puerto Real, Barbate. Also in one of the most stunning pueblos blancos of the province – Setenil de las Bodegas

4th-5th

21st

8th-11th

Feria de la Tapa, Alcalá del Valle (in north-west of province)

Something for everyone (young and old – day and night) at Setenil’s main

Loads of activities – including fireworks and bull-running – at the summer feria in El Gastor (north-west of province)

Cádiz: world rhythms and cool vibe from Almasala in concert at the Sala Barrabass. Starts 10.30pm

2nd Every Monday and Thursday night till summer’s over, Mr Groovy & the Blue Heads with their raunchy R&B on the seafront in Conil. Free

3rd Every Tuesday till end of September, Mr Groovy & The Blue Heads play for free at La Barrosa Beach, Chiclana

5th

More summer celebrations in Grazalema

6th

Fiestas in Zahara de la Sierra (Algodonales)

22nd-26th Spectacularly lit up, the town of Alcalá de los Gazules holds its main summer celebrations

7th-12th San Roque’s big summer celebration: parades, children’s fun, bull-running

JULY 1st

17th-20th

17th-20th 3rd-6th

POP, ROCK, BLUES

• Local pop outfit Kool at the Sala Bereber, Jerez. 10pm • Pop legend Miguel Bosé stops off at the San Roque bullring on his 30th anniversary tour with a set list chosen by fans and campaigning on behalf of Oxfam and others. 10.30pm • Sweet pop from the hugely successful (and fab) Mexican singing star Julieta Venegas in concert at Chiclana football ground

14th-18th Whitewashed houses bedecked with flowers as Our Lady is paraded through the streets of Prado del Rey (west of Arcos), plus open-air music and dancing in main square

Dance till dawn then be up for the bullrunning and street fun in Villaluenga del Rosario (between Ubrique and Grazalema)

11th-15th

12th-15th 27th-29th

One of the oldest ferias in Andalucía (San Agustín) in one of the prettiest hill-top towns, Olvera

31st-3rd September 10th-12th

10th-24th

Fiestas de San Fermín in Medina Sidonia

28th-31st

• Your pre-teen kids will love it (and so may you). Mexican soap stars turned popsters RBD stop off at Jerez’s Chapin stadium on their world tour • A night of acoustic funk from Faded at the Hotel Utopía, Benalup

23rd-26th Music, clowns, dancing, soccer tournaments, bull-running and livestock at the Bornos (near Arcos de la Frontera) summer feria

7th Legendary Tam Tam Go sing old favourites and tracks from their latest album at the Mucho Teatro Sala Club in El Puerto de Santa María. 9.30pm

60

Joan Manuel Serrat

Macaco

Nena Daconte

Cesaria Evora

laluz guide to what’s on 12th

21st

10th

If there are any tickets left by the time you read this, we’ll be amazed, but try anyway. David Bisbal hits Algeciras football stadium on his Premonición tour. Tickets from servicaixa.com

• Fifties and Sixties rock and roll from Los Intocables at the Hotel Utopía, Benalup • A night of great blues at the Teatro Peman in Cádiz with Tony Coleman and the Blues Funk Machine, plus Nina Van Horn and the Midnight Wolf Band.

10.30. Tickets: 902 101 212

• ‘¡Manos en el aire!’. Hip-hoppers La Excepción (see July 13th) down with the hood in the Carpas on Conil seafront • Local reggae band Kaya in concert at the Hotel Utopía, Benalup

13th • They’re funny and cool and by far and away the best hip-hop band around.

Madrid bad boys La Excepción in concert at the Rafael Alberti square in Puerto Real • Blues and Soul band Puff at the Hotel Utopía, Benalup • The Alhambra Freek! festival gets under way in El Puerto de Santa María with gigs by Pepe Delgado & La Reunion blues (7pm, Bar Arriate), Los Intocables (Rock & roll, 8.30pm, El Loco de la Ribera), Bombones (pop, 10pm, Mucho Teatro Sala Club) and Los Smogs (60s mods, 12, Milwaukee Jazz & Blues Club), followed by rock and soul DJ sessions at El Loco de La Ribera and Barsito Funky

14th • Day two of Alhambra Freek! in El Puerto. Among the seven bands appearing at the Colegio San Luis Gonzaga (5pm-3am) are the Undertones, sadly without Feargal Sharkey, but with the O’Neill brothers • Latin ‘fusion’ with Chamito Candela at the Hotel Utopía, Benalup

22nd A night of pop from Los Delincuentes and Raices y Puntas at the Baluarte de la Candelaria, Cádiz. 10pm.

27th • Huelva-born star of flamenco pop Sergio Contreras on at the Playa de la Concha, Algeciras • Folky pop from El Sueño de Morfeo in Tarifa • He’s sold 50 million records and he’s still going strong. Raphael in concert at the Palace of Congresses in La Línea • Pop duo Andy & Lucas in concert at San Roque bullring. 10.30pm • It’s jazz night at the Hotel Utopía, Benalup, with the house jazz band

28th • Barbate’s Infanta Elena Park hosts the third ‘seguimos en pie’ mini-festival of bands from the province. San Fernando’s heavy metal folksters Saurom headline. Free • Electro pop from Fangoria at the Las Albinas fairground in Chiclana

15th Haunting and whimsical folky pop duo Nena Daconte sing songs from their smash debut album “He perdido los zapatos” on the Playa de la Concha in Algeciras

31st

19th Evergreen singer-songwriters Joaquín Sabina and Joan Manuel Serrat at Algeciras bullring as part of their ‘two birds with one stone’ tour, singing each other’s songs and together

• A night of trip-hop and rockier stuff from Najwajean at the Teatro Pemán in Cádiz. Recommended. 10.30pm • Free gig from female singer Malú (bouncy pop and power ballads) at Chiclana fairground

20th

4th

• Flamenco Fusion with Abraham Sevilla at the Hotel Utopía, Benalup • La Excepción (see 13th) at San Roque bullring. 10.30pm.

• Celtic punky folk rock from great live band Celtas Cortos on the Playa de la Concha in Algeciras • R&B from Barcelona’s Alan Bike at the Hotel Utopía, Benalup

Open air free gig by Kool at the Plaza Torre Guzmán, Conil. 10pm

AUGUST 3rd

11th • La Excepción at the Municipal Theatre in Sanlúcar • Now here’s a turn-up. Megastar Alejandro Sanz chooses the village of Villaluenga del Rosario in the sierra for his only appearance in the province of his national tour. Expect a real sound, video and light extravaganza. Tickets from Hotel Monasterio, El Puerto • Blues festival at Sotogrande Alto with Beck & Pizarro (acoustic blues), The Granada Blues Band, Lisa Haley and The Zidecats (US), After Midnight (UK). 9.30pm • R&B kings Mr Groovy & The Blue Heads do a Joshua on the walls of Vejer de la Frontera

14th Hurrah! Ojos de Brujo, the darlings of WOMAD and world music hipdom, in concert at the open air Teatro Pemán in Cádiz. 10.30pm

17th • Three legends of Andalucían prog rock – Guadalquivir, Imán Califato Independiente and CAI – reappear on the same bill at the Teatro Pemán, Cádiz. 10.30pm • Breakdancing from Andalucían champs Bladiten, Casanova and Mati at the Hotel Utopía, Benalup, with Abraham Sevilla on electric guitar.

Sounds interesting

18th • Heavy metal folk from Saurom in concert in Espera • Blues night with Felix Slim at the Hotel Utopía, Benalup • David Bisbal in concert at Chiclana sports stadium. Buy tickets early or face disappointment

flamenco) Los Planetas. Teatro Pemán, Cádiz. 10.30pm.

• Self-penned songs in a lot of styles (blues, bossa, jazz) from young singer Zahara at the Hotel Utopía, Benalup

25th If you like Manu Chao, and who doesn’t, you’ll definitely like Macaco.

Afro-reggaefied pop on the Playa de la Concha, Algeciras

FOLK, WORLD JULY 7th Multi-instrumentalist Haig Yazdjian in concert at the Castillo Santa Catalina, Cádiz. Born in Syria, with Armenian parents and living in Greece, expect a mix of eastern styles. 10pm

13th One of the finest fiddlers Scotland has ever produced, Alasdair Fraser, in concert at the Castillo de Santa Catalina in Cádiz with cellist Natalie Haas. 10pm

14th Multinational folk group Gialetta Gialetta, plus flamenco from Lidia Caballero (dance), Raúl Gálvez (singing) and Niño de la Leo (guitar) in Medina Sidonia’s main square. Free

20th Georgian folk stars The Shin at the Castillo de Santa Catalina in Cádiz.

“Will take you somewhere you’ve never been before”, says the blurb. 10pm

21st Portuguese group Ronda dos Quatro Caminhos and local outfit Sabor Jerez in concert in Chipiona’ main square. Free

27th Cape Verdean great Cesaria Evora in a not-to-be-missed concert at the Teatro Pemán, Cádiz. 10.30pm

28th 24th • A 15th anniversary concert from psychedelic rockers (with a twist of

• Calabrian band Parto delle Nuvole Pessanti and Cádiz group Al Sur del Sur at the Torre de Guzmán in Conil

61

María Carrasco

Iturriaga Quartet

Shanghai New Circus

Chucho Valdés

Please confirm all events with venues or local tourist offices before setting out

• Córdoba-based Madagascar multiinstrumentalist Kilema and his fourpiece band in concert at the Castillo de Santa Catalina, Cádiz. 10pm • Annual Fatetar folk festival in a fabulous setting in Espera (near Arcos): Celtic music from La Conjura and the Rodriguez Celtic Band, blues from Mr Groovy & the Blue Heads; and ‘ethnic electronica’ from the Dub Explosión Sound System. Workshops and photo exhibition too. 10pm

23rd

5th-9th

17th

Tenor Javier Alonso and pianist Roger Braun perform works by Schumann, Ravel, Falla and Halffter at the Reina Sofia Centre in Cádiz. 9.30pm

Folk dance and music from different countries at the annual festival in Cádiz. Concerts at the Pemán theatre on 5th, 6th and 7th. Dance workshops, photo competition, craft displays and a special Russian night at the Castillo de Santa Catalina (9th)

Two choirs singing tangos and habaneras at the Castillo de Santa Catalina, Cádiz. 10pm.

AUGUST 1st Puccini’s opera La Bohème being performed at the La Línea Palace of Congresses. 10pm.

2nd AUGUST 3rd

Puccini’s Madame Butterfly at the La Línea Palace of Congresses. 10pm

The Gypsies of Rajasthan in concert at the Teatro Pemán in Cádiz

7th

11th Arabic-Andalucían band Akim El Sikameya, flamenco-jazz from Nono García and Atún y Chocolate at the Alameda in Tarifa

Accordeonist Arantxa Aguirre plays works by Lorentzen, Tchaikovsky, Sánchez-Verdú, Guridi, Lindberg, Soler, de Pablo and Zorn at the Reina Sofia Centre in Cádiz. 9.30pm

15th-19th

FLAMENCO JULY 27th Grand final of the national Alegrías singing competition at the Baluarte de la Candelaria in Cádiz

AUGUST 4th

Third international music festival in Alcalá de los Gazules. Daily performances from the Soloists of London, plus invited star guests from the classical music scene (oboist Alun Darbyshire, soprano Pilar Jurado and pianist Claudio Martinez Mehner).

Children’s concert and an appearance by the Andalucía Youth Orchestra too.

Details: 0034 617 276 161

If you’ve missed her on You Tube and the ‘Menuda Noche’ TV show, here’s a chance to catch the astounding 11-yearold flamenco singer María Carrasco at the Teatro Pemán in Cádiz. 10.30pm

17th

11th

21st

Local wine, sardines and a night of great flamenco at the Caseta Municipal in Chiclana. Headliners include José Mercé, Aurora Vargas and Capullo de Jerez. 10.30pm

Local chamber trio Les Trois Mains play Telemann, Bach and Corelli at the Reina Sofia Centre in Cádiz. 9.30pm

Internationally-renowned Spanish soprano Ainhoa Arteta in concert at the Palace of Congresses in La Línea.

9.30pm

The Sonora Big Band at the Castillo de Santa Catalina, Cádiz, with guest singer Celia Mur. 10pm.

13th-15th Three days of punk, garage, rock and blues and wacky films at the Alhambra Freek! festival at venues across El Pto de Santa María. Including the Undertones on 14th. (See individual entries for details)

AUGUST 24th-27th Al-Andalus Festival, San Jose del Valle (near Arcos). Music and Arts (think dub, trance, hippy-trippy sounds and crafts, bongos into the night and a general air of peace and love by the Guadalcacín reservoir. Details: al-andalusfestival.net

OTHER JULY 14th • A night of carnival music at the Teatro Pemán in Cádiz. 10pm • The Sonora Big Band celebrate 10 years of performances with a night of big band jazz, bop and swing at the Castillo de Santa Catalina, Cádiz. 10pm

15th El Puerto’s Alhambra Freek! festival screens three off-the-wall ‘B’ films by young Andalucían directors, including “Ellos robaron la picha de Hitler” (They stole Hitler’s dick), and “La Furia de McKenzie”. At the Colegio San Luis Gonzaga from 10.30pm

FESTIVALS

20th

CLASSICAL

JULY 5th-14th

Gravity-defying feats from the astonishing athletes of the Shanghai New Circus at the Teatro Pemán, Cádiz. 10.30pm

JULY 3rd

Jimena de la Frontera: highlights at this year’s Cuba-themed festival include: Habana Blues Band (5th), Grupo Compay Segundo (6th), Jarabe de Palo (7th), Chucho Valdes and Maíta Vende Cá (14th). (See Day Tripper, p29)

The Iturriaga Quartet play Brahms and Arriaga (the ‘Spanish Mozart’) at the Reina Sofia Centre in Cádiz. 9.30pm

26th

AUGUST 7th VJs Delacrew, Marulla and much more at the San Roque digital media festival.

Starts in the bullring at 10.30pm

ART JULY 2nd-15th Exhibition of South American art to coincide with the Cádiz folk dance and music festival. Centro Cultural El Palillero, Cádiz

6th-17th Exhibition of paintings (“Figurative Abstraction”) by Gabriel Granados at Alfonso X El Sabio, Calle Larga, El Puerto de Santa María

7th-4th August A real treat at the La Rampa gallery in Vejer. Fabulous semi-abstract landscapes and engravings from young Algeciras artist Fátima Conesa

SPORT AUGUST 9th-11th First weekend of spectacular Sanlúcar beach horse races (see Day Tripper, p28)

23rd-25th Second and final weekend of Sanlúcar beach horse races

July 26th-August 31st A thousand horses…124 riders from across the world…the elite of international polo descend on Sotogrande for one of the top tournaments of the year. Chukkas morning and afternoon, plus a ‘comercial village’ playing host to premium leisure brands. If you’re stuck on the etiquette, we’ve got copies of all the great Jilly Cooper classics in the la luz office. Details: santamariapoloclub.com

62

directory Please note: CLOSING DATE FOR ADVERTS: ISSUE 20 (sept/oct) Mon August 13th

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will continue to find us in hotels, restaurants, bars and shops across the province, but the following places have Pick up points You agreed to be designated pick up points for the magazine, so there should always be plenty of copies here.

Alcalá de los Gazules Antigua Fonda B/B Calle Sánchez Flores 4 Arcos de la Frontera Tourist Office Plaza del Cabildo, s/n Tel: 956 702 264 turismo@ayuntamientoarcos.org Café Ole Cerro de la Reina s/n Mesón de la Molinera Urbanización El Santiscal Barbate Tourist Office Avda José Antonio 23 Tel: 956 433 962 Bar La Galería Paseo Marítimo Hotel El Palomar de la Breña San Ambrosio km 4.5 Barbate-Los Caños de Meca Benalup-Casas Viejas Tourist Office C/ Paterna 4Tel: 956 424 009 contacto@descubre-andalucia.com Cádiz Junta de Andalucía Tourist Office Avda Ramón de Carranza

Tel: 956 258 646 otcadiz@andalucia.org Tourist Office Paseo de Canalejas s/n Tel: 956 241 001 aytocadiz.turismo@telefonica.net Active Language Plaza Libertad 4, 1st floor Chiclana de la Frontera Tourist Office Constitución s/n Tel: 956 400 101 turismo@chiclana.es Mail Boxes Etc Ctra. de La Barrosa C.C. Miramar, local 22 Cita Bar CC Aldea del Coto Local 28 Ctra. Nueva de la Barrosa Matrix Bar Avda de la Diputación 44 Nuevo Look Fashion La Vid, Edif. El Espinel, local 2 Costa Luz Homes Eroski Centre Lemon Tree restaurant Ctra de la Barrosa Urb Soto del Aguila Monopoly Apartaclub la Barrosa. Ctra. de la Barrosa, Los Gallos

Conil Tourist Office C/ Carretera 1 Tel: 956 440 501 turismo@conil.org Andaluz Homes C/ Toneleros 8

Olvera Tourist Office Plaza de la Iglesia s/n Tel: 956 120 816 Olvera Properties Calle Maestro Amado 2 Bar Pepe Reyes/Tartan Bar Pza del Ayuntamiento 9

Grazalema Tourist Office Plaza de España 11 Tel: 956 132 225

El Puerto de Santa María Chiropractor Centre Crta de Sanlúcar 6 Edificio Jardines de Sanlúcar 1

Jerez de la Frontera Tourist Office Alameda Cristina Tel: 956 324 747 turismojerez@aytojerez.es Mercers estate agents Calle Porvera 31 Tel: +34 956 329572 Medina Sidonia Tourist Office Plaza de la Iglesia Mayor, s/n Tel: 956 412 404 Andaluz Homes C/Hercules 2 Chelsea Academia Pza carretita s/n

Rota Tourist Office C/ Cuna, 2 Palacio Municipal Castillo de Luna Tel: 956 846 345 turismorota@hotmail.com Sanlúcar de Barrameda Tourist Office C/ Calzada del Ejército s/n Tel: 956 366 110 turismo@aytosanlucar.org Sotogrande C-International Abogados CN 340 s/n, Salida 130 CC Sotomarket

Tarifa Tourist Office Paseo de la Alameda s/n Tel: 956 680 993 turismo.tarifa@teleline.es DN-Law C/ San Trinidad 1 Bossa Cafe Puerta de Jerez Circus Bar C/ San Sebastian 8 Vejer de la Frontera Tourist Office Avda de los Remedios 2 Tel: 956 451 736 oficinadeturismovejer@hotmail.com De La Luz Properties SL Los Remedios S/N Mercers estate agents C/ Pintor Morillo Ferrada, Urb La Noria Hotel El Califa Pza de España La Patría restaurant Patria 48, La Muela The English Bookshop C/ Juan Rellinque 45 Zahara de la Sierra Tourist Office Plaza Zahara 3