AN EXCURSION THROUGH MILAN

By Shony Mordehay Featuring and photography: Rinati Dor Dvorsky

When we think of Italy, the first places that come to mind are undoubtedly Rome, Tuscany, or Venice. However, one of Italy's (and Europe’s) most fascinating cities is Milan - the capital of Lombardy and the second-largest city proper in Italy after Rome, boasting a population of around 1.4 million people.

Milan is a worldwide center for art, trade, design, education, entertainment, fashion, finance, healthcare, media and of course tourism. The headquarters of national and international banks and businesses are housed in Milan and it is also the host city for Italy's stock exchange (the Borsa Italiana) and the country's central bank. Boasting the third-largest economy in the European Union after Paris and Madrid, Milan is also regarded as one of the world's four fashion capitals. Milan Fashion Week, Milan Furniture Fair, and several other events and fairs are held in the city. Prada, Versace, and Giorgio Armani are just a few of the numerous famous fashion houses that call Milan home.

As a bustling metropolis with a long history and intriguing past, Milan attracts millions of tourists each year. People flock from all corners of the globe to visit its numerous sites which display the city’s cultural history and illustrious heritage.

Today, Rinati Dor Dvorski from Chabad will be our tour guide in Milan. Rinati, 53, is a photographer and tour operator throughout Milan and northern Italy. A travel expert on Milan, she also runs the website Milano-Mia.com, which has all of the information required about her various excursions. Together with her team, Rinati provides a comprehensive list of services in Milan, amongst them several boutique excursions. If you need any transportation from Milan airport to the city or vice versa, as well as tours outside of Milan, you can use the services of her husband, Amos (also a proud Chabad Chassid) and his team. We've asked Rinati to take us around Milan's most notable sites, so put on your comfy shoes, or simply make a nice cup of coffee and join us for a tour of Milan’s streets! The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, which opened in 1891 and is one of the world's oldest enclosed shopping malls, is a magnificent example of Italian architecture. The mall's architecture, with its magnificent blue glass dome ceilings and mosaic flooring, is as breathtaking as the high-end fashion sold in its stores, which include Louis Vuitton, Borsalino and Prada, as well as several other famous luxury labels. Aside from well-known premium brands, the Galleria also has some excellent eating options and coffee shops which are constantly crowded throughout the day. Due to its popularity, the Galleria has even earned the title ‘il salotto di Milano’, meaning ‘Milan's drawing room’, for its use as a gathering place. According to legend, stepping on one's heel over the mosaic bull under the dome brings good fortune, although as Jews we are considered above these things! Rinati has some advice for when you go to the Galleria. Aside from being a meeting spot for Milanese natives and tourists from all over the world, it's also a popular pickpocket hangout, so be cautious whilst shopping and don't let your money get stolen.

GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

NAVIGLI DISTRICT

Milan's Navigli, or canals, which date back to the 12th century, were built to facilitate the irrigation system. The infrastructure was then expanded in the 1300s to allow the movement of goods, which lasted until the 19th century. Rinati recommends that you take an hour cruise along the remaining Navigli Lombardi, which is regarded as one the most beautiful areas and best places to visit in Milan. Departure points for boat excursions are situated at the site where the historic port of Darsena and the main canal of Naviglio Grande meet. If you want to spend some time watching and enjoying performing art, this is the place to go.

QUADRILATERO D'ORO

How can you overlook the opportunity to do some shopping in Milan, the world's fashion capital? The Quadrilatero d'Oro is not only Milan's most exclusive shopping area, but it's also recognized as one of the world's leading fashion hotspots. The ‘Golden Quadrilateral’, as it is known, consists of a number of city blocks that are all Neoclassical in design. Via Sant'Andrea, on the other hand, has some of the world's most famous fashion brands and is one of Milan's top tourist attractions at night. If you have ever dreamed of buying a piece of luxury Italian fashion or Italian leather products, you will find plenty of shopping options here and there are many choices available - just make sure you don't spend too much!

SFORZESCO CASTLE

LA SCALA

La Scala, one of the most well-known tourist attractions in Milan, was built in the Neoclassical style by architect Giuseppe Piermarini. Since its first performance of ‘L'Europa Riconosciuta’ by Antonio Salieri in 1778, it has earned a reputation as a top opera house. This red-and-gold theater is famous for its superb acoustics that reveal the true abilities of a singer, and attending a live show is highly recommended, even if you don't consider yourself an opera fan.

The Sforzesco Castle, built during the 14th century as a fortress, is one of Milan's many attractions, and has become an amazing display of power and prestige over the years. It now houses the Museo d'Arte Antica which contains the Pietà Rondanini - Michelangelo's last major work. You can also find an outstanding display of Egyptian art in the ducal apartments of the castle's former rulers.

SAN SIRO STADIUM

If you thought Italians were hot-blooded and passionate, wait till you attend a football match at the San Siro Stadium. If you're able to get tickets for the Derby della Madonnina (also known as the Milan derby) between A.C. Milan and Inter, both of which consider San Siro to be their home ground, it'll make your trip all the more complete. The popularity of these two teams is represented by an enormous football monument, which is one of the continent's largest stadiums, and Italy’s largest. It was expanded considerably over the first half of the 20th century to accommodate even more fans, ultimately reaching a capacity of around 80,000 people. Now, consider the enthusiasm of 80,000 spectators when a winning goal is scored - that's passion in its purest form. Just make sure that you're backing the correct team!

And one more of Rinati's suggestions: Many of Leonardo da Vinci's works never came to fruition. Amongst them was a horse sculpture commissioned by Ludovico il Moro, the Duke of Milan, in 1482. However, thanks to the enthusiastic support of an American art collector and a seasoned animal sculptor, this equine statue – which was intended to be the world's largest – was completed in 1999 and now stands a few hundred meters from the stadium. Even if you're not a football enthusiast, you should consider a trip to the San Siro just to see this wonderful sculpture.

JEWISH MILAN

Of course, we cannot finish our article without mentioning the Jewish Community in Milan. With the earliest traces of Jewish settlement dating back to just the 18th century, the community is a rather young one. Historically, Jews began to reside in Milan from the year 1820 onwards, and were generally employed in banking, trading, textiles, and precious gems. By 1848, the Jews of Milan numbered 3,012, and in that year the synagogue ‘Comunita' Ebraica Di Milano’ - the great synagogue of Milan, was established on Via Della Guastalla 19, where it still stands today.

Before the ‘Dichiarazione sulla razza’ - the ‘race statement’ of the fascist party in 1938, there were around 12,000 Jews living in Milan. A large number of these fled, but 866 members of Milan's Jewish community sadly lost their lives during the Holocaust and were murdered by the Nazis. After the war, there were only 5,000 Jews left in Milan, yet by 1975, this number had more than doubled, with many of the newcomers being merchants and traders. Recently, this number has declined again, leaving around 5,500 Jews residing in the city.

In addition to the great synagogue, there are over 16 minyanim in Milan, as well as ten synagogues throughout the city. These include synagogues for Italian Jews, Iranian Jewish immigrants, several Nusach Sefard synagogues, and a Chabad home. Milan also boasts three Jewish schools; a main Jewish community school, as well as a Chabad and a private Sephardic community school.

The area surrounding the Jewish school and community offices is also home to a number of Kosher shops, bakeries, and eateries. The main Jewish community in Milan is near the Bande Nere metro station, however if you are looking for a good steak or burger for lunch, get on the M1 subway line (red line) at Wagner Station. You can then stroll down the lovely Giorgio Washington Street to Denzel Kosher restaurant, which is less than a mile away. Rinati tells us that if you inform the waiter that Rinati sent you, you will receive a free ice cream with your order - give it a go!

STARBUCKS MILAN ONE LAST THING...

Starbucks? In Milan? You can find a typical branch of Starbucks anywhere in the world; however, this isn't your typical cup-of-jo coffee. Stopping here for a drink is an experience you'll never forget, with live music playing in the background while espresso flows through veins and into brain cells. When Starbucks opened its first branch in Italy in 2018, they chose Milan as their first location, and it is considered the most beautiful Starbucks in the world. You will enjoy visiting this place even if you’re not a big fan of coffee.

Before we say goodbye to the lovely city of Milan and Rinati Dor Dvorski, Rinati would like to inform you that she has a variety of excursions throughout Milan on her website. When we asked Rinati which is her favourite tour, she immediately informed us that it is the Cappuccino tour, also her most popular tour. Here, you can explore the streets of one of Milan's most magnificent districts with Rinati. You will learn about the history of Milanese Jews while on a cultural and colorful tour, accompanied by a little culinary component. Rinati will show you some of the most distinctive Italian shops, each with a unique backstory. You'll go to secret cafés, admire stunning structures, and learn how Italians add the "Italian touch" to everything they make. With Rinati having lived in Milan for over 13 years, she is well-versed in the city's best kept secrets and will regale you with tales, tips, and views of this lovely town on your private tour. A little bird told us that you may even hear parts of her incredible life story when you join her excursions.

If you wish to try a different excursion or have a customized tour created especially for you, do not hesitate to contact her. Rinati can be found on her Facebook page: Rinati Dor Dvorski, by contacting her on WhatsApp: +39-320-954-8486, or by email: rinatidor@gmail.com. It's a guaranteed fun experience!

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