allenges, Mature Marke h C t t Gr arke ow M th g s u nds S tainably So in a p.2 r g B r 2 ty urce e u a e m U B E niq w re Developing a Be o ue f Ho e aut B k Ing s y A Pro c u o s F G o g r r n oups T d dd i A s u to ct th e ion t s M ar
t n e i ed s
ing t ke
T o pQ u e
CONTENTS MAY 2015
n VOLUME 183, NUMBER 4
features 22 Beauty Industry Gets a Wakeup Call As Emerging Markets Slow
columns 4 Starting Point: The Magic of Emerging Technologies BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED
Emerging markets aren’t done growing, but mature markets offer stability and competitive growth rates in key categories. BY ROB WALKER
24 Shining on the Shelf—and On the Go
Why innovative packaging matters in the consumer experience. BY NANCY JEFFRIES
30 Beauty without Borders
departments 6 Go: Innovations, ideas and insights 18 Street Level: New products, promotions and events
How brands responsibly source their most unique, natural wonders from around the globe.
BY LISA DOYLE
52 Wrap Up: The latest in packaging innovation
36 Top Questions to Ask Before Developing a Beauty Product
Steps for avoiding delays, reformulations and other product development snags. BY HOWARD BAKER
40 3 Strategies to Guide an Effective Design Process The key to an effective evaluation is being aware of how customers will view and interact with your products among competitors. BY SHERI L. KOETTING
Fragrance Focus: News about the fragrance industry
54 Main Ingredients: Ingredients now on the market
resources 62 Products & Services Showcase 64 Advertiser Index
44 Overcoming Social Media’s Steep Learning Curve Delivering strong social content that reinforces core brand strategies and messages. BY MARTYN TIPPING
48 Staying Positive
When a brand talks about overcoming a negative in order to maximize consumer interest and appeal, there is a right way and wrong way to do it. BY SCOTT GARRISON
50 7 Reasons to Add Focus Groups to Your Marketing Mix
Delve into consumer insights in a unique, personal way.
Subscribe to GCI’s Weekly Newsletter The latest news, trends and insights will be delivered straight to your inbox every week. Subscribe for free at:
BY DENISE HERICH
EDITORIAL Director Editor in Chief Associate Editor
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AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Director Customer Service
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CORPORATE President Controller Group Show Director Digital Products Director Executive Assistant
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Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published ten times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2014. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $10; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.
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GCI May 2015
DuraQuench IQ SA TM
Discover an innovative approach to effective moisturization through Crodaâ€™s moisturizing complex, DuraQuench IQ SA. Its dual mechanism optimizes skin moisturization by the formation of an intelligent structural layer on the surface of the skin, while regulating water loss from within by reinforcing the skinâ€™s natural barrier. New data shows DuraQuench IQ SA can deliver effective skin and scalp moisturization from rinse-off systems. In addition, DuraQuench IQ SA offers hair care formulators consumer-perceivable hair conditioning benefits.
Long lasting hydration
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Protects against the drying effects of soaps and detergents Visible improvement in skin dryness Consumer-perceivable scalp and hair results Effective in both leave-on and rinse-off systems US patent pending
Visit us at www.crodapersonalcare.com North America firstname.lastname@example.org Europe, Middle East & Africa email@example.com Latin America firstname.lastname@example.org Asia Pacific email@example.com
Innovation you can build on
n by JEb Gleason-Allured
The Magic of Emerging Technologies “Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.”
Editor in Chief firstname.lastname@example.org @GCI_Magazine
GCI MAGAZINE Editorial Advisory BOARD Alisa Marie Beyer
Coastal Salt & Soul
MARIE ALICE DIBON
Alice Communications, Inc.
Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group
Art Rich, phD
A. Rich Development
Laura Setzfand Epiphany
—Arthur C. Clarke
’ve been covering the beauty industry for about five minutes, but already I can see how quickly it is evolving via ingredients, technologies, consumer insights and more. In particular, it was fascinating to see how rapidly augmented reality and 3-D printing are moving into the beauty space, promising unique experiences and on-demand hypercustomization. During my first week as editor in chief of GCI, ModiFace announced its ModiFace Mirror,a which uses 3-D technology to simulate makeup effects on users’ faces using a live video feed via iOS or in-store kiosks. The technology offers effects from about 2,000 products, provides feedback for personalized looks and previews makeup effects by scanning each user’s face. ModiFace Mirror can also match shades of blush and lipstick to foundation. Around the same time, L’Oreal released its Makeup Genius app, which turns users’ phones into virtual mirrors. Using 3-D facial-recognition software imaging, Makeup Genius allows users to virtually apply various makeup products and brands. Users can create their own looks or instantly apply ready-made styles developed by leading makeup artists. In effect, consumers are able to experiment with new products anywhere, any time—a longtime shortcoming of ecommerce experiences. Around the time of the Makeup Genius and ModiFace announcements, leading-edge gaming firm Magic Leap—whose —Bill Gates motto is “it’s time to bring magic back into the world”—posted a video on YouTube titled, “Just another day in the office at Magic Leap.” The footage, which pairs video with CGI effects, shows the sheer diversity of graphic augmented reality applications for beaming virtual objects into real spaces, from tactile app icons and email that can be handshuffled to, of course, games. The Magic Leap film simulates a player moving through a real space into which gaming elements, such as aliens and weapons, are projected. The user is able to “lift” virtual objects, manipulate them with his hands and utilize them to save the day. The implications of this sort of technical leap on beauty products and point of purchase are easy to recognize. Imagine a world in which virtual retail spaces could be beamed into any consumer’s home, outdoor space or other setting where people could interact with and sample virtual products any time they chose—a world in which products could be virtually demoed to optimize packaging, product relevance and other elements of new launches. What
“We always overestimate the change that will occur in the next two years and underestimate the change that will occur in the next 10.”
ModiFace; modiface.com Makeup Genius; https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/makeup-genius/id871897775?mt=8 Magic Leap; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPMHcanq0xM Mink; http://gracemink.com/ a
4 Starting Point GCI May 2015
LEND GLAMOUR T O D A I LY L I F E
w w w. m a n e .c o m 2011
L’Oreal’s Makeup Genius app uses facial recognition software to virtually apply various makeup styles to users’ faces in real-time.
would that do for product design, customization, and consumer satisfaction and education? No doubt those wiser than I have already thought of these and other applications. Meanwhile, in the “real world,” Mink has announced the development of a 3-D desktop cosmetic printer that, when launched, will be approximately the size of a Mac Mini and retail for about $300. According to the development team, Mink “can take any image and instantly transform it into a wearable color cosmetic, turning any camera, phone or laptop into an endless beauty aisle.” The product will be marketed to young women aged 13 to 21, many of whom have not yet solidified their beauty rituals. Perhaps they will invent their own. Of course, I don’t wish to overstate the immediate impact or efficacy of these innovations, but I will pass along Bill Gates’ advice: “We always overestimate the change that will occur in the next two years and underestimate the change that will occur in the next 10. Don’t let yourself be lulled into inaction.” n GCI
6 Starting Point GCI May 2015
At BASF, we create chemistry inspired by life. Inspiration driven by an understanding of consumer trends and your pursuit to formulate new solutions for tomorrow’s innovations. Get inspired at NYSCC Supplier’s Day with our new product launches at Booth #431.
Against the Elements: Seasonal Product Design Offering a cosmetic and emotional defense against shifting weather conditions is a competitive advantage for product developers. According to a Mintel (www.mintel.com) report, beauty manufacturers are increasingly taking into account climate and weather as key product development touchpoints. As a result, about 11.1% of all beauty and personal care launches in 2014 were tied to seasonal trends, versus 9.8% in 2011. Facial skincare launches in this category increased from 0.5% of global launches in 2009 to 1.2% in 2014
Physical & Emotional Impacts These innovations have evolved far beyond products for summer holidays into more sophisticated products that defend against dry skin in cold, dry weather, the impacts of high heat and humidity, and UV damage. The Mintel report notes that consumers are seeking products that address their specific skin and hair issues, as well as offerings with seasonally adjusted ingredient and fragrance components. In addition to physical seasonal stresses, consumers are impacted by the emotional
Consumer awareness of the “winter blues” opens up whole new avenues of innovation that deliver optimism. effects of harsh winters and other day-to-day stresses. Consumer awareness of the “winter blues” opens up whole new avenues of innovation that deliver optimism, according to Mintel. This change in mindset will demand a time-sensitive approach to ingredient sourcing and product launch programs, delivering the right solutions to the right geographic zones in the right season, while also taking climatic cues from local markets.
Consumer Insights, By the Numbers Mintel’s report includes a number of statistics exploring the breadth and depth of the trend; highlights include: • 80% of German consumers claim their facial skin needs change throughout the year
• 48% of Chinese female facial skincare users choose products from different brands in different seasons • 30% of Brazilian haircare consumers claim they would pay more for products to protect their hair from sun damage • 48% of U.S. suncare users express interest in gradual tanning body washes • 44% of U.S. women who use soap, bath and shower products look for extra moisturizers in the winter months • 81% of U.S. men who use soap, bath and shower products would be interested in adding deodorizing properties; 59% would be interested in bodywash and soap with SPF • 36% of U.K. consumers said they felt less positive during the long, cold winter of 2012/2013 • 23% of these U.K. consumers said the return of warm weather would prompt them to treat themselves to a new look • 67% of U.S. fragrance users would be interested in scents that influence their mood or relieve stress; 23% would pay more for them
GCI May 2015
Luxury Under the
Digital Influence The announcement of the merger of Yoox and Net-A-Porter highlights the escalating luxury e-commerce space. The deal, which creates a $1.4-billion company, will compete for the approximately 6% of luxury sales made online. “It probably goes without saying that bricks-and-mortar is still the preferred channel for today’s luxury consumer,” said Fflur Roberts, Eurmonitor International’s head of luxury goods. “That said, the internet has been transformative not only in the way luxury consumers interact, but also in the way the industry operates.” According to Euromonitor figures, the 6% value share for online luxury goods sales represents a 50% increase from 2005. The pace of growth is forecast to accelerate, with 40% growth by 2019. Meanwhile e-tailers will continue to invest in digital technology, even as brick-and-mortar retail continues to dominate luxury. More at www.euromonitor.com.
Optimizing the Path to Purchase Shepherding consumers along the path to purchase online remains a challenge for many brands, even as consumers begin to discover products in addition to replenishing existing ones. According to a recent L2 Think Tank briefing, guided selling must “facilitate discovery, exploration and decision-making,” using a range of tactics, including virtual makeovers (17% of indexed sites), filters (52% by concern, 15% by skin type, 14% by color), how-to tutorials (46% video, 40% text), and consumer-produced insights and product feedback. While most beauty brands use at least one of these tools, too many silo these offerings rather than integrating them into the “consumer path to purchase.” More at www.l2inc.com.
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Nimble Brands Capture Changing Consumers Legacy beauty brands are losing touch with consumers, along with their share of beauty spending as consumers follow their beauty and lifestyle needs to newer, more relevant offerings, according to a new analysis from Diagonal Reports (www.diagonalreports.com).
Natural Reigns Consumers are increasingly scrutinizing the ingredient labels of products they purchase and have expanded their concern to synthetic chemicals contained in hair and skincare products. As a result, natural products continue to gain influence and marketshare, along with consumers’ trust.
New Digital Influencers
Emerging trends may well put an emphasis on wellness, which may not automatically translate into the cosmetics sector.
The report notes that consumers don’t use the same products as their older siblings or parents and instead craft their preferences on social media platforms, which can create spontaneous market trends and set the beauty industry agenda. As Diagonal notes, consumers demand information and proof in regards to skincare and hair care product efficacy, rather than traditional advertising. These consumers view paid endorsements with suspicion and instead rely on personal and social communities for reliable advice. “These communities have done what is blindingly simple,” Diagonal notes. “They moved the ‘face to face’ and the ‘word of mouth’—the key to successfully selling beauty—online.” Why? Trust and credibility. Social communities’ opinions and recommendations are viewed as unbiased insights from “real people”—in essence, peers. As a result, online communities represent the “first port of call” for consumers’ hair care and skincare concerns. These interactions—via text, audio, video and photos—rise above the overwhelming marketing and advertising noise in consumers’ lives by delivering “real-life experiences” directly among consumers—at their desks or in the palms of their hands via mobile tech. This is the unmediated future. “These communities are now in a virtuous circle of growth and expansion,” Diagonal notes. “The community/audience gets larger and exerts more influence.” This dynamic demands a significant shift in traditional beauty brand marketing strategies. In response, a greater focus on digital communication by brands will quickly dwarf efforts in print and television marketing platforms. Digital messaging will reflect a discourse with consumers, rather than a traditional marketing message delivery.
New Beauty Rituals Meanwhile, emerging trends may well put an emphasis on wellness, which may not automatically translate into the cosmetics sector. In fact, beauty needs may be satisfied by wellness offerings such as medicalized skin care, acupuncture, or products that destress or energize. Wellness is most likely to be embraced in emerging markets such as Africa and Asia, which are creating their own wellness/beauty rituals, Diagonal notes.
Emerging Markets: All in the Details As noted above, emerging markets are rewriting the rules in beauty regimes and behaviors, requiring diverse solutions for a range of skin tones and hair types. With shifting population densities worldwide, what is a marginal emerging product today will be the mainstream offering of tomorrow. Hair care and skincare companies that want to compete globally will have to gather detailed insights into consumer behaviors such as African hair styling (differences between straightening and relaxing) and Asian face cleansing rituals, Diagonal notes. Those who succeed will be positioned to reach millions of young consumers who are looking for products relevant to their needs and are willing to pay a significant premium for them. As Diagonal stresses, “No assumptions can be made about product (e.g., liquid, treatment) categories, no definitions of beauty (e.g., a blemish) terms accepted at face value.”
Bottom Line: New Winners The most flexible game-changing brands will be the most competitive players in this new environment, Diagonal concludes. Large, legacy brands will be facing increased competition from small—even tiny—competitors who will collectively eat away marketshare. Why? Because they recognized, understood and capitalized on changing consumer behaviors.
10 GO! GCI May 2015
Survey: Beauty & PC
Among 80,000 U.S. consumers surveyed, 72% said trust was a key component in beauty brand choice, according to a new BrandSpark publication. For personal care products, that number was 68%. Trust is top of mind for consumers. Focusing on categories such as body wash, body lotion and hair treatments, the survey lists top brands within 101 segments. (More at www.brandspark.ca.) The trust leaders, according to the 80,000 survey respondents, were: • Acne treatment: Neutrogena and Clearasil (tie) • Adult sunscreen: Coppertone and Neutrogena (tie) • Anti-aging moisturizer: Olay • Body lotion: Aveeno • Body wash: Dove • Facial cleanser: Neutrogena and Olay (tie) • Foundation: Covergirl • Hair color: L’Oreal • Hair treatment: L’Oreal and Pantene (tie) • Lipstick: Revlon • Mascara: Maybelline • Men’s antiperspirant-deodorant: Old Spice • Men’s body spray: Axe • Men’s shampoo and conditioner: Head & Shoulders • Men’s shaving: Gilette • Men’s skin care: Dove • Mouthwash: Listerine • Women’s antiperspirant-deodorant: Secret • Women’s facial skin care: Olay • Women’s hair styling: Pantene • Women’s shampoo and conditioner: Pantene • Women’s shaving: Gilette Venus
Beauty Innovation News On the Move
Consumers Will Switch Brands for Less Packaging Waste Consumers hate packaging-related waste and will switch brands to avoid it, according to a survey from LiquiGlide (liquiglide.com). The worst offenders? Shampoo, lotion and toothpaste. Consumers in the survey were overwhelmingly concerned with wasting product, wasting money and feeling taking advantage of. Respondents selfestimated that they lost as much as $50 each year from product waste related to uncooperative packaging
Respondents self-estimated they lost as much as $50 each year from product waste related to uncooperative packaging. The survey noted, “Beyond money concerns, 20% of respondents said it’s the principle of the matter that they should get everything they paid for, and 16% cited environmental concerns.” The report continued, “More than twothirds (69%) say they hesitate to open a new package when there’s still a tiny bit left in the previous one.” Most respondents, it turns out, will switch brands to access more efficient packaging: • body lotion, 74% • toothpaste, 71% • shampoo, 68% • conditioner, 67%
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www.gcimagazine.com/subscribe 12 GO! GCI May 2015
Brands Underutilize Digital Coupons The personal care industry is facing an “execution gap” when it comes to digital coupons, according to a recent analysis by L2 (www.l2inc.com). While 62% of brand sites in the U.S. included coupon sections, just 33% actually offered coupons. Social media and e-tailer channels are reportedly no better. This represents a huge missed opportunity for the industry, according to L2 figures. The intelligence service notes that, while digital channels account for a relatively modest amount of personal care sales, they now influence 50% of in-store purchases, up from 36% in 2013. Not surprisingly, smart phones “have become central to the shopping experience,” accounting for 90% of shoppers’ planning and 84% of in-store shopping. Digital shoppers are overwhelmingly “attuned to discounts, promotions and coupons,” with 85% seeking coupons online and 60% using both digital and print discount offerings. About 55% of adult users will redeem digital coupons online or in-store.
Cosmetics or Drugs? “Americans spend a lot of money on creams, lotions and other cosmetics that promise to improve their skin, hair, and even eyelashes,” says a recent U.S. Food and Drug Administration publication. “But sometimes those promises go too far.”
Targeting Claims The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is cracking down on cosmetic claims, or at least it would seem so. After not issuing a warning letter concerning cosmetic claims since 2012, the FDA issued five such letters since November 2014, the most recent being sent to StriVectin. Following those letters, the FDA has also issued a document that clarifies cosmetic versus drug claims for the consumer to highlight what cosmetic companies are able to say. In its recent letter to StriVectin, the FDA highlighted the elastin-stimulating claims associated with the company’s TL Advanced Tightening Neck Cream and its Potent Wrinkle Reducing Treatment. Claims relating to stimulating elastin are associated with altering the structure or function of the skin, according to the FDA, and therefore are considered drugs.
Promising Too Much
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Of course, the cosmetic claims document made public on March 23, 2015, titled “Are Cosmetic Companies Promising Too Much” notes, “Some of the drug claims have included promises to increase production of collagen and elastin, resulting in skin that is more elastic and firmer, with fewer wrinkles.” It adds that cosmetic companies cannot make claims associated with medical conditions such as acne, dandruff, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis or hair restoration, as these claims are drugrelated. The former may be a given, but the FDA adds that claims associated with reducing inflammation, regenerating cells, preventing facial muscle contractions, boosting activity of genes and providing similar results to surgery are also drug claims. The FDA did note that it has been tracking claims for “several years,” and adds that it issues warnings to any cosmetic company that makes drug-related claims. With the Sunscreen Innovation Act passed and UV filters review looming, one would assume that the FDA would not have time to tackle other issues in cosmetics; however, recent actions would suggest otherwise.
14 GO! GCI May 2015
In Fragrance, Men Going Stronger, Women Trending Softer Scent behaviors are changing. Colognes and other lighter-concentration fragrances are growing in popularity among women, while eau de parfum (EDP) and other high-concentration scents are gaining ground among men, according to a new NPD Group (www.npd.com) analysis. Men’s EDP sales for the 12 months ending February 2015 totaled $51 million, while women’s prestige cologne totaled $69.6 million. Growth among strong fragrances is being driven by sophisticated early adopters and multicultural male and female shoppers, according to NPD Growth in lighter feminine scents reflects a focus on naturalness. Simultaneously, men’s prestige after shave products, which include after shave balm, lotion, creme, gel and other products, continued their three-year decline, totaling $19.5 million for the same period. Meanwhile, both men and women sought out on-the-go fragrance formats such as travel spray, roll-on and rollerball products, which grew 67% among women and 54% among men. Convenience for everyday routines is a key driver for these products, according to NPD.
Beauty Competition Impacts US Sales Increased competition among beauty brands and retailers, and more competition between beauty and other products, services and experiences (such as vacations, entertainment and dining), impacted 2014 U.S. beauty sales.
Consumers still want to use beauty products to feel confident and sexy, but half of women would cut back on their beauty spend if money got tight. An NPD Group (www.npd.com) report noted that U.S. beauty shopping declined 4% in 2014 to the lowest level of shoppers since 2008. In particular, women cut their makeup and fragrance spending, which are often seen as “for special occasions.” However, if women were given an extra $100 of disposable income to spend on beauty, most would purchase makeup or fragrance products. NPD reported that consumers still want to use beauty products to feel confident and sexy, but half of women would cut back on their beauty spend if money got tight. Similarly, nearly half of women indicated they usually shop for beauty products that are on sale, while the other half reports that price is not the most important factor when shopping for beauty products.
Suggests a Need for After-sun
According to a report from Yale published Feb. 19, 2015, in Science, the damage caused by UV radiation continues to occur hours after sun exposure. In the study, Douglas Brash, clinical professor of therapeutic radiology and dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine, and coauthors exposed mouse and human melanocyte cells to radiation from a UV lamp, which caused DNA damage known as cyclobutane dimer (CPD). Melanocytes generated CPDs immediately after the UV exposure had ended, and, unexpectedly, hours after the UV exposure had ended. Cells without melanin generated CPDs only during UV exposure. According to the researchers, this showed that melanin had both carcinogenic and protective effects. The researchers tested the extent of damage occurring after sun exposure by preventing normal DNA repair. They found that half of the CPDs created in melanocytes developed after exposure to UV light had ended; i.e., in the dark. According to the Yale researchers, while this news may be disconcerting, the slow speed of chemi-excitation may allow time for new preventive tools, such as an “evening-after” sunscreen designed to block the energy transfer.
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new products, promotions and events
New to the cosmetic market is BeautiWhite, which has launched the Porcelain Doll collection for lightening the face and body. Porcelain Doll Instant Whitening Body Lotion and Instant Whitening Face Gel use whitening microbeads to lighten and brighten skin tone, improve skin texture, lighten dark spots and reduce the appearance of stretch marks and scars. These beads activate once the product is rubbed together before application. Both formulations also contain papaya enzymes, vitamin E, vitamin C , rice water and licorice extracts to provide optimal results with nourishing ingredients. Available for retail at www.beautiwhitepd.com.
Nivea has taken moisturization into the shower with the launch of In-Shower Body Lotions, three formulas designed to leave skin soft and smooth, without the sticky lotion feel. These lotions absorb into wet skin in seconds and provide over 24 hours of moisturization. The Hydrating In-Shower Body Lotion contains sea minerals to moisturize normal to dry skin; the Smoothing In-Shower Body Lotion contains shea butter to help smooth dry skin; and the Nourishing In-Shower Body Lotion contains almond oil to nourish very dry skin. The lotions are applied to the body and then rinsed off. Available at all food, drug and mass merchandisers nationwide and select online retailers. www.nivea.com
Energizing Mud Masque
Men’s Hair Styling Lady Burd Cosmetics
Lady Burd Cosmetics has launched a mineral-enriched active mud masque for the face and body, which is intended to detoxify and rebalance the skin’s moisture. Left on skin for two to five minutes, the product reportedly boosts skin elasticity, clarifies appearance, unclogs pores, eliminates dead skin cells and reduces the appearances of fine lines and wrinkles. The masque is appropriate for all skin types and is composed of mineral-rich Bentonite clay. www.ladyburd.com
Dr. Hauschka added two natural deodorants to its body care offering. Rose Deodorant and Sage Mint Deodorant use tapioca starch to absorb moisture, soothe the skin and leave it feeling smooth. The Sage Mint Deodorant also combines the natural antimicrobials witch hazel and sage extracts, as they hinder the growth of odor-causing bacteria. Sage extract is said to normalize perspiration. The deodorant also contains the natural pH adjuster triethyl citrate. Both deodorants are certified natural by NATRUE. www.dr.hauschka.com
Sage Antimicrobial Trilipid Research Institute
Trilipid Research Institute took their hydrating body cream and added sun protection and vitamin D. The trilipiderm All-Body Moisture Retention Crème with Vitamin D Broad Spectrum SPF 30 repairs and reconstructs damaged, dry skin while protecting it from UV radiation. A blend of active ingredients mimic skin cell structure and re-establishes the skin’s natural barrier to water loss. The product also contains vitamin D for a healthy skin metabolism. Vitamin E is included to leave skin soft and smooth. Available for purchase at retailers nationwide and online at www.trilipiderm.com.
NO-AD, a Sun & Skin Care Research LLC brand known for value sun care products, combined its knowledge of sun protection with skin care benefits for two new duo launches. Prevent & Brighten and Prevent & Repair offer anti-aging benefits for the body with an SPF 15 in both spray and lotion form. Prevent & Brighten uses niacinamide (vitamin B3) to brighten, boost hydration to reduce redness, minimize dark spots and increase production of ceramides and fatty acids to reinforce skin’s protective barrier. Vitamin C is included to fight free radicals while smoothing and firming skin. Vitamin E eases dryness and bolsters skin’s UV defense. Argan oil diminishes the appearance of age spots and brightens. www.no-ad.com
Anti-aging Sun Care
Dollar Shave Club has launched a line of hair styling products, which will be presented adjacent to the company’s personalized product selection tool, Boogie’s Match. The tool prompts customers with hair-styling questions to generate relevant product recommendations. The products include the Boogie’s Bold Hair Gel, which “delivers strong definition, sharp texture, lasting hold and shine, without flakes or stiffness.” The gel is alcohol-free and formulated with Irish moss and black locust extract for supplemental moisture. The product is recommended for any hair length and texture. Boogie’s Casual Hair Clay is “ideal for creating definition and texture on short to mid-length hairstyles that require a more structured, gritty or urban look without clumps or shine.” The product provides a matte finish. Boogie’s Dream Hair Cream styling moisturizer “gives hair natural separation and effortless hold for style that is re-workable with a natural finish.” The product is formulated with black locust extract and grape seed and flax seed oils. Boogie’s Smart Hair Paste hair texturizer and styler provides hair with a “gritty, yet creamy texture” that remains malleable throughout the day. Boogie’s True Hair Fiber resinous hair texturizer “provides a pliable, medium hold with a natural-looking matte finish without stickiness.” The product is intended for short to medium-length hair. www.dollarshaveclub.com
Dollar Shave Club
18 Street Level GCI May 2015
NYX Los Angeles Inc.
NYX Los Angeles Inc. prepares the brows for makeup definition and enhancement with Proof It! Waterproof Eyebrow Primer. This clear eyebrow gel sets brows in place, protecting them from wash-off and rub-off. It is applied over brows before shaping them with powder to keep them in control. It was specially formulated for thin, sparse brows and also provides conditioning. www.nyxcosmetics.com
Rose Hair Protection
The biomimetic technology of Jericho rose has been utilized to protect the hair in a serum from Phyto Specific, an Alès Groupe brand created for curly hair. Thermoperfect 8 is a lightweight smoothing serum that safeguards hair and delivers heat protection up to 450 degrees when using hot tools. It also protects hair from breakage, dryness and oxidative stress. While Jericho rose delivers heat protection, Provital’s Kératrixa shields against breakage and offers anti-frizz protection. Black orchid oil nourishes to help restore the hydrolipid film and lock in moisture. This lightweight, non-greasy formula smooths and calms flyaways without build-up. www.provital.com
All coloring is damaging at some level, sight seen or unseen, and until recently, the only way to repair it was after the fact. But as the color strengthening category grows, more and more hairdressers are discovering that is no longer true. ColorpHlex has launched its ColorStrong Complex, which protects and strengthens hair during the coloring process by using a naturally derived vegetable protein molecule for reduced damage and breakage. The product reportedly does not impact color formulas, processing times or developer levels. ColorpHlex noted, “According to a study produced by Tri-Princeton Research Labs ... colored and bleached hair treated with ColorpHlex leaves hair three times stronger than bleaching alone. And when followed by No. 2, the second part of the treatment performed at the bowl after shampooing, hair is left as strong as virgin hair.” The product is available in two kits, “Intro” and “Professional.” www.colorphlex.com
Deciem’s Hand Chemistry brand brings the anti-aging benefits of vitamin A to the body with Retin-Oil Retinoid Complex. This multi-vitamin dry body oil uses vitamin A to target scars, stretch marks, aging, dehydrated skin, surface irregularities and discoloration to show a difference to the skin’s surface in just two weeks. The formula helps skin look smoother and visibly reduces pore size and wrinkles without causing irritation. Vitamin C helps improve collagen production and sun-induced aging. A blend of skin-enhancing Amazonian oils leave a dry, protective barrier on the skin’s surface. An oil-derived algae complex targets stretch marks. Over time, there is a general improvement in skin’s visible condition and texture. handchemistry.com
Deciem’s Hand Chemistry
Vitamin A for Body
Cactus Moisture Retention
G.M. Collin designed a new treatment to moisturize and soothe dry, irritated skin and improve its barrier function. Nutriderm Replenishing Complex contains Barbary cactus seed oil to help the skin retain moisture while protecting it from free radicals. The seed oil also promotes new cell growth and calms inflammation. Also included in the complex is argan oil to moisturize and prevent transepidermal water loss. Omega 3, 6 and 9 soothe and moisturize skin. Vitamin E conditions and provides antioxidant protection. By improving barrier properties, the complex improves elasticity and increases hydration while protecting the skin from transepidermal water loss. The complex is recommended for normal to dry skin types and suitable for sensitive skin. Available at www.gmcollin.com and spas nationwide. www.GCImagazine.com
Street Level 19
News about the Fragrance industry
ScentBird has landed. The fragrance subscription service offers consumers a monthly supply of 0.27 oz/8 mL sprays selected from among more than 350 designer scents, including Viktor & Rolf, Prada and Cartier. Subscribers sign up, answer quiz prompts regarding preferences and then make their selections from the recommendations generated by the site. The first month’s scent comes encased in a refillable case, which is replenished each subsequent month. www.scentbird.com
Perfume Subscription Service
Masculine seduction intensified Mercedes-Benz has released Mercedes-Benz Intense for Men. Formulated by original perfumer Olivier Cresp, the scent evokes elegance and power. The woody amber signature of the fragrance includes fresh and natural top notes of bergamot, mandarin and violet leaf absolute, sophisticated heart notes of Bourbon pepper, violet flower and the Firmenichtrademarked Cascalone, and base notes of American cedarwood, limbanol, patchouli, Bourbon vetiver and Cetalox (also Firmenich). www.perfume.mercedes-benz.com
Symrise has reported sales of €2.12 billion for 2014 (2013: €1,830.4 million), an increase of 18% at local currency, reaching an EBITDA of €464.5 million, a gain of 24% year-over-year. The company experienced a strong fourth quarter, totaling €590.1 million (2013: €429.2 million). The Scent & Care segment, which focused on high-margin business, increased sales in local currency by 4%, totaling €980.4 million (2013: €960.4 million), and reaching an EBITDA of €222.9 million. Gains were driven by cosmetic ingredients. Eurofragance has increased its 2014 sales by 14.5%, totaling €53.7 million (2013: €46.9 million). Results were driven by Asian and American expansion. The company has also grown its staff by 12%, from 180 to 202.
Fragrances of Ireland
Fragrances of Ireland has launched Inis the Energy of the Sea, a sparkling, clean unisex scent that evokes the coolness, clarity and purity of the ocean. The scent, which comprises top notes of lemon and marine, heart notes of lily of the valley, and base notes of sandalwood and clove, was inspired by Roundstone Beach on the western coast of Ireland. www.perfume.ie
Inter Parfums has acquired Rochas from P&G for $108 million. This transaction will cover all brand names and registered trademarks for Rochas (Femme, Madame, Eau de Rochas, etc.), mainly for Class 3 (cosmetics) and Class 25 (fashion). The move is part of a broader P&G divestment strategy that could reportedly encompass some 100 brands. The Rochas brand achieved net sales of $46 million in 2013/2014, driven mainly by the “Eau de Rochas” fragrance line. Rochas brand sales include $2 million of royalties generated by the fashion and accessory business via its portfolio of license agreements.
Robertet has named Thomas Cornelson vice president, flavor and fragrance supply chain. He has 20 years of industry experience and is responsible for all aspects of supply chain. Firmenich has appointed Geneviève Berger as its chief research officer. Formerly of Unilever, she is responsible for driving scientific excellence and innovation. Berger holds doctorates in physics, human biology and medicine. She has also practiced medicine as a medical doctor and professor at the Hôpital de la Pitié-Salpêtrière, or the Pierre and Marie Curie University in France. She also led the Centre National de Recherche Scientifique in France and advised the European Commission and the French government across a range of topics, including biotech, agri-food or health. Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce has announced its 2015 general board of directors: president, Amy Marks-McGee (Trendincite LLC); vice president, Kathryn Bardsley-Murano (IFF); secretary, Bea Hornedo (Bontoux, Inc.); and treasurer, Erica Lermond (The Lermond Company, LLC). The board members include: Anne Marie Api (Research Institute for Fragrance Materials, Inc.), Dolores Avezzano (Aurochemicals), Gillian Bleimann (Berje Inc.), Patricia Halle (Ungerer & Company), Joan Huang (Symrise Inc.), Cathianne Leonardi (Allen Flavors Inc.), Jeanine Pedersen (Takasago International Corp.), Jessica Reichert (Premier Specialties Inc.), Celine Roche (Mane USA) and Alpa Roman (Flavor & Fragrance Specialties).
20 Fragrance Focus GCI May 2015
BEAUTY INDUSTRY GETS A WAKEUP CALL AS EMERGING MARKETS SLOW Emerging markets aren’t done growing, but mature markets offer stability and competitive growth rates in key categories. BY ROB WALKER, EUROMONITOR
Former safe havens of growth will turn into hotbeds of uncertainty.
Moderate growth is set to be the new norm in key countries such as China and Brazil.
Among the major emerging markets, India has some of the best growth prospects over the next five years.
Developed markets, the United States in particular, could soon narrow the growth gap and eventually outperform emerging markets in key industry categories.
he good news is that emerging market consumers are still spending plenty of cash on beauty and personal care. Value sales across emerging markets were up almost 10% in 2014 over the previous year at fixed U.S. dollar prices, according to new data from Euromonitor International. The bad news is that annual growth failed to reach double-digit levels for the first time in more than a decade. This may be the start of an era of more subdued emerging market demand. More subdued future growth makes sense. Emerging markets’ sales performance has been in a state of flux over 2013–2014, as global beauty and personal care brands battle with a more reticent China, a more cash-strapped Brazil and a more inwardlooking Russia. However, the situation is set to worsen. Latin America is teetering on
the edge of recession, Eastern Europe is in conflict, the Middle East and Africa are in varying degrees of upheaval, and emerging Asia is losing its economic dynamism. In addition, currency instability in key countries such as Brazil, Mexico, Turkey and South Africa is creating havoc in terms of strategic planning. These factors will conspire to turn former safe havens of growth into hotbeds of uncertainty. It is true that emerging market growth in 2014 was still much stronger than the 2% growth in developed markets. However, developed markets are starting to look like a safer investment target than emerging markets over the next five years. Indeed, in a pendulum swing that few in the industry saw coming, developed markets and the United States in particular could soon be outperforming emerging markets in key industry categories.
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GCI May 2015
Single-digit Growth is the New Norm in China China has been a magnet for beauty industry investment over the last decade, spurred on by the country’s rapid economic growth. However, Western companies with significant Chinese exposure, such as Procter & Gamble, L’Oréal and Unilever, are not sitting as pretty as they were three years ago. Sales are still growing, reaching $48 billion in 2014, with growth of 7% from 2013. However, this was the third consecutive year of slower growth, according to Euromonitor International. This is not only due to economic issues. Yes, China’s juggernaut economy is slowing, but the consumption culture of China’s mid-income consumers is also changing. Gone are the days when Chinese consumers would buy a shampoo, fragrance or lipstick simply because the brand offered Western credentials. The urban mid-income group is now more discerning and, to an extent, wary of Western brands. This wariness is rooted in a government crackdown on extravagance, which was aimed primarily at government officials with a taste for fine wines and luxury watches, but which has morphed into a wider societal rebuff of showy brands. There is also a growing undercurrent of perception that Western brands do not always match Chinese tastes and requirements. It is telling, perhaps, that some of the beauty industry’s strongest performing imports in China over 2013–2014 came not from France or the United States, but from South Korea. This reflects a strong Chinese affinity with South Korean soap operas and popular music.
Consumers Trade Down in Brazil as Economy Implodes Brazil’s beauty industry grew even faster than China’s over the last decade in absolute terms. It continues to flout strong external signs of growth, with beauty and personal care retail sales growing 11% in 2014 over the previous year at fixed U.S. dollar prices. However, growth was slower in comparison to the preceding two years, with 14% and 16% growth in 2013 and 2012, respectively. It is also hard to see how growth will avoid a further drop in 2015, as the Brazilian economy teeters on the brink of recession. One of the problems for the beauty industry is that mid-income Brazilians, a linchpin of demand over the last decade, have grown www.GCImagazine.com
used to prestigious possessions such as smartphones, satellite TVs and cars. Many are even investing in their children’s private education. As spending power weakens, these are the types of products and services most households will want to retain for as long as possible. Inevitably, that means savings will have to be made in other areas. Will beauty and personal care be among the casualties? They might be. At the very least, there is likely to be much stronger trading down by consumers in product categories such as hair care, deodorants and men’s grooming.
India: the New China? India was one of the best performing emerging markets for beauty and personal care in 2014, with retail sales climbing 15% from 2013. Among the major emerging markets, India also has some of the best growth prospects over the next five years. As a major oil importer, India’s economy is notably being boosted by cheaper oil prices. This will filter though into the pockets of increasingly beauty-conscious urban consumers. These trends thus bode well for fast growing beauty and personal care categories such as deodorants, color cosmetics and men’s grooming.
A Pendulum Shift in the Making Over the last decade, the beauty industry relied heavily on emerging markets to shore up worldwide growth. This trend continued in 2014, but the once cavernous gap in growth between emerging and developed markets could now start to narrow, fuelled by resurgent consumer confidence in the United States and some Western European countries. Growth in emerging markets has not run its course. However, a long period of double-digit U.S.-dollar growth has finally fizzled out, and moderate growth is set to be the new norm in key countries such as China and Brazil. As a result, strategic planning for leading global players is likely to see major revision over the next three years, with a stronger investment focus on developed countries. For brands that get the mix right, the global impact should not be too bad. n GCI
ROB WALKER, senior fast-moving consumer goods analyst, Euromonitor International, can be contacted at email@example.com. Market Insights
on the Shelf— and On the Go
Why innovative packaging matters in the consumer experience. BY NANCY JEFFRIES
Brands that can deliver an enhanced, more convenient experience for today’s busy consumer will win in the marketplace.
Packaging for on-the-go consumption is becoming inceasingly common. It is not unusual to find personal care products in desk drawers, purses, backpacks and cars.
Packaging that prevents spilling, leaks and breakage is the singlemost important packaging attribute impacting consumer purchasing decisions.
High-end decorative techniques engage consumers with impactful visual cues.
f a picture is worth a thousand words, surely the right package will speak volumes. Consumer engagement with brands is significantly impacted by the right combination of product and packaging, meaning innovative packaging continues to matter in the beauty industry. At a recent Cosmetic Executive Women/ NPD Year in Review event in New York, James Russo, Sr., vice president, global insights, Nielsen, said that innovative packaging may indeed trump other value drivers in the beauty sector, including natural or organic, and is among the key components that help products “shine on shelf in a sea of sameness.” Suppliers of beauty packaging components know the power of engagement that high-functioning caps, closures, prestige glass, innovative dispensing and design can provide. Advanced spray delivery, leak-proof portability and aesthetics all impact purchase, as consumers seek ease of use, elegance and solution-centered products.
Suppliers Address Innovation Carow Packaging, specialists in caps, pumps and sprayers, offers brand enhancement with a variety of cap and closure systems. Janet Freund, marketing manager, Carow Packaging, said the company is the first and exclusive North American company to offer Snap-PET, a line of six stock caps that snap on to existing PET preform bottle necks. According to the company, “This represents a new value proposition for customers in the health and beauty space. Traditional cap and bottle designs are expensive and labor-intensive due to
Snap-PET caps from Carow
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GCI May 2015
Product Packaging custom tooling and developmental trial and error. With Snap-PET, a customer designs a bottle shape, selects one of the stock caps and they are done.” Creating a custom package without a custom price has undeniable appeal, and Freund said cost reduction is significant with this system:“The Snap-PET closure system could reduce the cost of injection stretch blow molded containers by as much as 90% ($250,000 traditional vs. $15,000 with Snap-PET). Since the cap and bottle are produced from injection blow molding at critical snap points, the system virtually eliminates leakage, torque and back-off issues commonly found during filling and shipping, further reducing cost.” Freund said that Carow’s dispensing system will have an overall impact on dispensing efficiency, and cites its applicability in dispensing a popular
EuroDrop Group from Carow
ingredient in today’s market: “With argan oil gaining in popularity in salons and mass market, our trademarked EuroDrop system is ideal for dispensing single drops of this exclusive product. The improved drop dispensing technique of the EuroDrop insert makes it a more efficient option than the dropper pipette.” Regarding the impact of such an offering on a larger scale, Freund added, “Any aggressive product that requires glass packaging and controlled dispensing would benefit from the compact and precise EuroDrop system.”
Precision Dispensing Today’s advanced formulations require sophisticated dispensing to provide precise delivery. According to Juliana Keklik, marketing manager, NA beauty, Aptar Beauty + Home, Aptar is offering Serumony, an airless serum dropper that performs with precision and efficacy. Keklik said, “Today, we see consumers expecting to trade their hard-earned dollars for not only a quality product, but a quality experience. This breakthrough in packaging transforms the way consumers dispense formulas for skin and hair care.” She added, “The magic happens when the airless piston is advanced with one touch of the push-button, making the process very easy. Serumony dispenses the exact amount of product every time without the need for skin contact, keeping the entire
La Nuit Tresor with Precious Fragrance Pump by Aptar
process hygienic. With standard droppers, consumers experience a dispensing process that can amount to an average of five steps. The airtight and leak-proof features are also central to a great product experience, because they protect the very formula consumers trade their money for. The latest launch came from Givenchy for [its] new serum, Doctor White 10 High-Precision Whitening Spot Eraser.” The product, a hightech skin care serum, targets pigmentation spots, and its design combines controlled dosage with a sensory experience. “Another product getting a lot of recognition is our newest fragrance pump, Precious,” said Keklik. “It offers a continuous diffusion spray combined with gentle actuation. The mist is lush and lasting, with no hard points on actuation.” L’Oreal chose Precious for La Nuit Tresor, its new Lancôme fragrance. “Consumers will experience an enhanced spray with extreme uniformity and less wetness,” said Keklik. “Its smoother-than-usual actuation speaks to its quality and luxe
26 Product Packaging GCI May 2015
Dr. White High Precision Whitening Spot Eraser by Givenchy with Serumony Airless Dropper by Aptar
characteristics, which seems to be the trend in demand right now. Just like Serumony, these applicators will have the power to transform the way consumers apply skin treatment formulas and foundations.”
experts at Marietta Corp., while the pouch technology has been developed by Ampac Packaging.” She continued, “The pump is equipped with a unique push button for soft, easy activation, and is attached to a customizable, flexible pouch. The system uses MWV’s Pure Path metal-free dispensing technology, and is suitable for personal care and liquid product applications.” Ellis added that the new concept and its full impact on consumers and/or brands has not yet been assessed. However, through focus testing, MWV found that consumers use multiple personal care and skin care products throughout the day, so it is not unusual to find hand sanitizer, lotion, face creams and even toothpaste in desk drawers, purses, backpacks and in the car. Ellis said,
Portable Solutions Amber Ellis, vice president, beauty category marketing, MWV, is focused on dispensing innovations for the peripatetic consumer. Ellis said, “In 2015, MWV launched MiniMod, an airless pump-on-a-pouch packaging solution that provides controlled dispensing and portability for those who like to take their favorite beauty and personal care products on-the-go. Filling for MiniMod pouches will come from the
Mini-Mods from MWV
“In fact, many consumers describe their on-the-go use of these types of products as more frequent than their in-home use. It’s in these instances, where MiniMod is most valuable. It is slim, compact and can fit almost anywhere. Most importantly, it will not leak, so it gives consumers the confidence they seek, ensuring each time they interact with the product, it will be a clean, convenient experience.” Ellis noted, “Overall, 92% of consumers we surveyed rated MiniMod’s overall performance as ‘excellent or very good,’ while 88% said they would buy it for its on-the-go capabilities. It offers them the convenience of carrying their favorite brands with them as they go through their busy lives, without having to compromise their routines or limit the use of their favorite products.” She continued, “Brands that can deliver an enhanced, more convenient experience for today’s busy consumer will win in the marketplace. MWV’s Packaging Matters study found that 53% of all consumers feel that packaging that allows for convenient, on-the-go use is extremely/very important. Furthermore, the study validates that packaging that can prevent spilling, leaking or breaking is the single most important packaging attribute affecting consumers’ purchasing decisions. MiniMod delivers against both of these needs: It creates a more convenient, secure packaging solution, all while creating more usage occasions for brands.”
Product Packaging 27
Product Packaging Premium Packaging Drives Momentum Demand for high-performance materials and technologies has resulted in profound innovation in the market. Sheherazade Chamlou, VP marketing, SGD, said these materials and technological advances are turning dreams into realities for premium packaging that will stand out on the shelf. “In the fragrance sector, the broad spectrum of imaginatively created perfume flacons has resulted in packaging which is close to art,” she explained. “What is driving the momentum is an impressive array of high-end decorative techniques, which create impactful visual clues to reach and engage consumers.” The effect on both consumers and brands supports the value proposition of the product. Chamlou said, “Products that are effective create value for the consumer, as well as an experience that is fun. Packaging plays a significant role in the purchasing process, for example, trial, repeat or switch.” Sensory engagement enhances consumer response, as Chamlou explained: “The use
Fine Arts from SGD
of multisensory packaging increases the touchpoints between the consumer and the package, and it helps with the brand storytelling. A total sensory experience will vastly improve the consumer’s ability to memorize a brand, so the more brands can appeal to sensory elements, the stronger the emotional connection with the brand.” Chamlou highlighted trends and innovations hitting shelves now, including perfumery tailoring: “This is a new trend that major brands are trying to recall lost luxury by launching exclusive perfumes. At SGD, this trend has been interpreted through Fine Arts, which is a fine engraving in the mold. Fine engraving in a material as hard as glass is very hard to achieve. Thanks to improvements and new techniques in mold design, SGD offers 3-D engraving
of ultra-fine patterns. In the photo shown, SGD has re-created the delicacy of lace to imitate fine jewelry or a texture you might find on a bride’s wedding gown. The engraved patterns in the glass can be further magnified through various decoration techniques such as pad printing, lacquering, internal mirror finish and/or frosting.” These trends will no doubt impact the field of packaging on a larger scale. “A lot of decorations on recent fragrance launches are coming straight from the runway, and thanks to new and advanced decoration techniques, fashion and perfume industries are getting very close,” said Chamlou. “Sensorial packaging is all about creating experiences, and beauty, pleasure and luxury are all characteristics that packaging can reach through cues to the consumer’s eyes, fingertips, ears and nose.” n GCI
Nancy Jeffries is a contributing editor for GCI magazine, covering the industry from her New York vantage. Jeffries has been in the publishing business for more than 20 years. Her introduction to the cosmetics and personal care industry began as editor of GCI magazine from 1997–2000. firstname.lastname@example.org
28 Product Packaging GCI May 2015
At first sight, Alpha’s jars turn heads. But a closer look at our wide range of options reveals even more reasons to trust Alpha for your personal care packaging needs. With seven North American manufacturing locations to choose from, we can help you get jars faster and with lower shipping costs from our plant to your filler. Alpha is currently stocking more sizes and colors of PET plastic jars than ever before, from 2 ounces to 32 ounces; and, if you desire a custom color to reinforce your brand, we can create a color for you with very low minimums. Alpha can also create a custom mold or enhance your finished package with high quality silk screening, labeling or spray frosting to take your brand to the next level. At Alpha Packaging, we don’t just make beautiful things; we make beauty that works for you. For free samples of our stock bottles and jars, visit www.alphap.com and click “Request a Sample.”
Alpha Packaging | 800-421-4772 www.alphap.com | www.technigraph.net Stock Packaging | Custom Molding | Screen Printing | Spray Frosting
natural product trends
How brands responsibly source their most unique, natural wonders from around the globe.
impaCt poiNts n
Natural products are one of the quickest-growing categories, and more small-batch companies will pop up as a result.
Being a good steward of the environment is a top priority anytime a supplier or brand sources natural ingredients from a region.
Brands and suppliers that work with communities to harvest ingredients in an ethical way and support the locals can make a major impact on global microeconomies.
If harvesting an ingredient on a grand scale would harm its environment, a true eco-consumer wouldn’t support it. If it can be grown and reproduced ethically without losing any benefits, that story is just as compelling.
BY LISA DOYLE
omelo juice. Prickly pear seed oil. Tiare flower. Indian neem oil. If any of these ingredients pique your interest, then you’re probably a little like your target consumer. The trend toward natural products continues to grow in personal care, and the stories behind these products will become even more important to set them apart. One example of a business catering to this trend is Credo Beauty, which opened last month in San Francisco. Launched by a founding member of the Sephora USA team, the apothecary exclusively sells natural, artisan beauty brands that feature sustainably sourced ingredients. “Natural products are one of the quickest-growing categories, and we will see more small-batch companies pop up as a result,” says Mandi Griffiths, manager of education, Dr. Hauschka Skin Care. “The defining quality that will set companies
apart is the story of their ingredients: where it was sourced, how it was farmed, its unique qualities, plus ethical considerations.” Indeed, it’s not only about finding the right exotic ingredients for your brand—it’s also choosing how to source them.
First, Do No Harm Being a good steward of the environment is a top priority anytime a supplier or brand sources natural ingredients from a region. “We pay attention to the nature of the environment where we are, mainly the typical Mediterranean plants,” says Pedro Marcet, owner of Provital Group, based in Barcelona. “There is a great diversity of interesting species that have been used in personal care products for centuries. Our ingredients are chosen not only because of their uniqueness but also because of their cosmetic benefit.” (Continued on Page 34)
Natural Product Trends
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2015 Allured Business Media.
GCI May 2015
natural product trends (Continued from Page 30) Once it’s ascertained that sourcing ingredients from a region will do no harm to the ecosystem, the payoff can be great in terms of an attractive, hard-to-find addition to your product line. “The Body Scrub with Bora-Bora sand contains white sand particles from the shores of Bora-Bora to provide a mechanical exfoliation,” says Angela Eriksen-Stanley, director of education, Phytocéane. “The Bora-Bora Moisturizing Lotion is formulated with tiare flower, giving it an exotic, summer scent. And, our Mediterranean Shower and Body Cream contain key ingredients from the Mediterranean, including olive oil from the region and sea lavender of the Camargue extract, providing an ultra-moisturizing, exotic sensory experience.” Environmental advocacy is becoming increasingly more important as well, and shows your customers your commitment to sustainability. Croda is one supplier on the forefront, and is a member of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil. “Palm oil is primarily produced in Malaysia and Indonesia, and there is a real environmental need to encourage farmers to produce in accordance with the RSPO guidelines to avoid the practices that are destroying the wildlife and air quality of the region,” says Jennifer Donahue, marketing manager, skin care, Croda. “Croda is now using the Mass Balance system for tracking our consumption of Certified Sustainable Palm Oil (CSPO),” continues Donahue. “We are adding new materials to our Sustainable Palm portfolio every month, and they are core chemistries that are used in every application, such as emulsifiers for creams and lotions as well as emollients and conditioning quats. By producing mass balance, sustainable, palm oil-based products, Croda is helping to change the palm oil industry, which will protect the future of our planet.”
Community Cooperation Sourcing exotic ingredients from around the world impacts more than the environment— it also impacts the communities. Brands and suppliers that work with the communities to harvest them in an ethical way and support the locals can make a major impact on global microeconomies.
Dr. Hauschka has made this commitment in several countries. “In India, Dr. Hauschka Skin Care supported a farming cooperative to get up and running on the production and certification of the world’s first organic castor oil,” explains Griffiths. “We have provided similar assistance to a shea butter cooperative in Burkina Faso and rose growers in Turkey and Afghanistan, where we work with the World Hunger Organization to offer approximately 700 farmers the opportunity to earn income using organic rose cultivation methods rather than turning to opium production. Dr. Hauschka provides fixed orders for these operations while they get off the ground, but it is important to us that they remain independent, fully free to provide these high-quality ingredients to any and all customers. The way we see it, the whole planet benefits when organic and biodynamic growers are successful and in demand.” John Masters Organics also supports small economies when sourcing its ingredients. For many years, they have partnered with a collective in Morocco to source its pure argan oil, and have recently added their local prickly pear seed oil to the John Masters portfolio. “It’s one of my favorite ingredients right now,” says John Masters, founder. “It has so many amazing benefits, with an extremely high concentrate of vitamin E, and essential fatty acids like omega 6.” Éminence Organic Skincare farms many of its ingredients in Hungary, supporting both its communities and traditions—for example, paprika, a red powder made from grinding dried sweet red or green peppers, is a key ingredient in Éminence’s relaunched Eight Greens Collection. “In Hungary, six different varieties of paprika are available with flavors ranging from delicate to hot,” says Boldijarre Koronczay, president, Éminence Organic Skincare. “Paprika is not just a spice that adds color, but is also rich in vitamin C and carotenoids, providing a variety of health and beauty benefits.” Additionally, Provital Group plans to launch an ingredient later this year to bring balance to stressed and rosacea-prone skin. “For the sourcing of the plant, we are cooperating with a women’s community in Querétaro, Mexico, where its tea has been traditionally used for the treatment of stressful situations,” adds Marcet.
Conservation by Cultivation Unexpectedly, exotic ingredients may be even more attractive to a savvy consumer when they’re replicated in a lab or on a supplier’s premises. If harvesting an ingredient on a grand scale would truly harm its environment, a true eco-consumer wouldn’t support it; however, if it can be grown and reproduced ethically without losing any of its beauty benefits, that story is just as compelling. Croda-owned IRB by Sederma (Istituto di Ricerche Biotecnologiche SpA) specializes in plant cell culture technology, which allows for the use of small levels of plant material to use in the creation of highly effective ingredients. “The benefit is that we can now access plants that are typically difficult to source because they are rare or grown naturally in very remote locations,” says Sonia Dawson, marketing manager, botanicals, Croda. “These ingredients are also highly sustainable as it only requires the one-time use of very small levels of plant material to gain unlimited access to their most beneficial ingredients, and this process conserves significant amounts of water as well.” Likewise, Phytocéane lives up to its philosophy of conservation. Says EriksenStanley, “Active ingredients within the brand come directly from the the Coral Bay, a zone rich in coralline located in Northern Brittany between the Talbert sandy rock bank and the island of Bréhat as well as from the most beautiful and rich seas of the world. Phytocéane Research has developed an unprecedented process for cultivating rare protected algae in the laboratory to conserve natural resources and guarantee optimal quality ingredients.” Marcet sums up the keys to sourcing unique ingredients responsibly: “Respecting biodiversity, fair trade, sustainability…at the end, and as one of the core points in Provital’s values, reconcile development with respect for the planet in a harmonious way.” n GCI
Lisa Doyle was formerly the associate editor of GCI magazine and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has appeared in Skin Inc. magazine, Salon Today, America’s Best, Renew and Modern Salon.
34 Natural Product Trends GCI May 2015
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Steps for avoiding delays, reformulations and other product development snags.
IMPACT POINTS n
Beauty products, like many personal and luxury products, seem to work better if they cost a bit more.
Products that will be a long-term part of the brand deserve a bit more development attention than short-term promotional items in most cases.
With the right planning, it is possible to introduce your brand to consumers outside of your normal market without compromising your existing customer base.
The shortest path to a successful new product will be to avoid the legal and regulatory quagmires.
BY HOWARD BAKER, PRODUCT INTEGRITY LABORATORY LLC
sking the right questions at the beginning of a project and answering them as honestly as you can, will set you on a course to develop a beauty product that will successfully build your brand. Some of the questions are obvious, but they sometimes lead to other questions that can make the whole process more productive and successful.
Who is my target customer? This is probably the most fundamental question for developing a new beauty product, if not the most obvious. Of course, it’s crucial to understand the target customer, a customer you are probably already very familiar with.
Questions that often don’t get asked include: Does this new product expand my current customer base? Is the new product an opportunity to reach out to customers beyond our usual customer base? Adjusting your product profile to answer this question may be a key to making the success of your project even greater, particularly if expanding your customer base seems like a good idea. With the right planning, it might be possible to introduce your brand to consumers outside of your normal market without compromising your existing customer base. Reaching for a higher-priced category is usually difficult, and appealing to a lower pricepoint audience can hurt your current brand image. If incorporating different product characteristics that will broaden the
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT appeal for your brand is possible, this is an opportunity to reach sideways into parts of the culture that may not be as aware of your brand as it should be.
What will the product cost? Again, an obvious question. After considering Helena Rubenstein’s dictum that if a product isn’t selling, double the price, will you be charging enough? The constraints that marketers place on themselves for product cost sometimes miss the opportunity to take advantage of a pricing fresh start. Once the product is in the marketplace, raising the price is virtually impossible. Beauty products, like many personal and luxury products, seem to work better if they cost a bit more. Again, this is an opportunity to rethink your usual pricing and cost structures.
Is the product supposed to be a permanent part of the product line? Or, will it fall by the wayside with changes in fashion? Makeup shades are creatures of fashion for sure. Fragrances can be a flash in the pan, or they can become a classic and go on for decades. Are you going to sell the next BB cream, CC cream, DD cream, or will it be a product that steps outside of the fashion trends and is intended to be around for the long haul? A clear idea on this dimension of the development project can affect how detailed your project will have to be. Products that will be a long-term part of the brand deserve a bit more attention than short-term promotional items in most cases. The testing behind the product should be more rigorous for a “new classic” in the product line.
What claims will I make? Yes, Captain Obvious strikes again, but there are considerations that can make this question a bit more interesting. If the product will be sold in markets outside the U.S., how will those claims play in those markets? Understanding and addressing cultural differences can expand the success of your product in those markets. Performance expectations can vary significantly from country to country, as can usage patterns and economic concerns. 38
Questions that aren’t often asked include: Does this new product expand your current customer base? Is the new product an opportunity to reach beyond your usual customer base? Are there any regulatory or legal issues with the claims you want to make? “Sun protection,” “fights blemishes,” “increases blood circulation,” “treats wrinkles,” “stimulates collagen production,” or “diminishes age spots.” Wonderful things to say about your product. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) would tell you they are all drug claims in the U.S. Other countries may view the same claims very differently. It doesn’t matter if the claims are true, if they aren’t allowed by FDA regulations for cosmetic products, your product might fall victim to regulatory problems. Whether you write your marketing copy and then have it reviewed and revised for regulatory compliance, or you pay attention to the regulatory boundaries in the beginning, the shortest path to a successful new product will be to avoid the legal and regulatory quagmires.
What ingredients should be in the product? There are a lot of happy answers to this question. Ingredients that the consumer understands to offer transformative benefits can support your promotional efforts significantly. Function and fashion
can combine to make a product almost irresistible. Looking at the other side of the coin: What ingredients should not be in the product? There are both legal and fashion reasons to avoid some ingredients. Some are so well known at this point that there isn’t much point in claiming that the product doesn’t contain them. Paraben-free has probably run its course as a claim that gets much attention with the consumer. Others are not as easy to spot. California’s Proposition 65 list of chemicals known to the State of California as causing cancer or reproductive toxicity is an example. Here, the product needs to be developed to avoid those ingredients that are on the list, like cocamide DEA. Ingredients that might contain some amount of Prop 65 chemicals as by-products or unavoidable contaminants also have to be factored in. Diethanolamine (DEA) is on the Prop 65 list, but triethanolamine (TEA) is not. The problem is that almost all TEA contains some amount of DEA, so the Prop 65 legal exposure comes in through the back door. Canada has its “hot list” of ingredients and ingredient constituents that should be avoided if you are selling in Canada. The European Union has its own collection of ingredients to avoid. Planning to avoid them in the first place saves aggravation down the road. Answering questions like these at the very beginning will save a lot of time and aggravation as your development project unfolds. If you ignore them at the start, they will likely crop up later, causing you to either miss opportunities for your new product to build your brand more effectively, or you may have to take a few steps backward to make the adjustment. Since virtually everything in our cosmetics and personal care industry was already late and behind schedule when we thought of it, delays and steps backward aren’t the fun part. n GCI Cosmetics and personal care technical consulting expert HOWARD BAKER is managing member of Product Integrity Laboratory LLC, which provides product development and quality control/quality assurance services for companies in the fragrance and cosmetic industry that use contract manufacturers. A cosmetic chemist with more than four decades of experience in the beauty industry, Baker has overseen product development and has provided technical consulting services in the areas of formulation development, product development testing, quality assurance and quality control, and regulatory compliance.
GCI May 2015
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COMPETITIVE RETAIL PACKAGING
to Guide an Effective Design Process The key to an effective evaluation is being aware of how customers will view and interact with your products among competitors BY SHERI L. KOETTING
IMPACT POINTS n
To ensure success within a competitive landscape, the product’s exterior design must be effective.
Testing and evaluation of in-progress designs should always happen within the context of the competitive environment.
Regardless of the design style, the best weapons are color, shape and imagery.
Examine the competitive shelf set to inform graphic choices. Consider the overall market tone to find what is missing.
Logo, brand name and product name should be discernible from approximately 4 feet away.
Competitive Retail Packaging
he retail environment is often packed with a dizzying array of brands vying for equal attention. This presents unique challenges for marketers. In an instant you need to grab and sustain consumers’ attention so they can understand your product’s use and experience your brand’s personality. That’s a tall order. To ensure success within this competitive landscape, the product’s exterior design (which includes the container itself, as well as text and graphics) must be effective. When packaging directions are explored, testing and evaluation of in-progress designs should always happen within the context of the competitive environment. The key to an effective evaluation is being keenly aware of how your target customers will view and interact with your product among competitors. Their experience in the retail space should be thought of as a threepart process: 1. Draw them in 2. Create a clear hierarchy 3. Entice interaction
Simulating this experience throughout design development is the key to creating packaging that will “pop” off the shelf and resonate with consumers.
Draw Them In Your target customers need to be drawn to your brand from across the room. Like a moth to a flame, draw them in for a closer look by making a compelling statement. Regardless of the design style, the best weapons in your arsenal are color, shape and imagery.
Color Color is, by far, the most powerful presence on your packaging. It is what consumers notice first. Color elicits an emotional reaction, but it is also subjective, which can make choosing an overall brand color challenging. When designing for retail, the decision can be more objective when it is informed by the surrounding brands, aka the retail shelf set.
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COMPETITIVE RETAIL PACKAGING
Go into the field and observe various shelf sets where your products might appear. You will immediately get a sense of the dominant colors, lighting and shelf heights within these environments. All of these factors matter when determining the best packaging for retail conditions. A marketer with a keen understanding of the sales environment will know when to fit in and when to stand out. For example, if cool colors dominate the typical shelf sets, you might consider going for something warm.
Shape and Graphics Second to color, shape is a powerful differentiator. Unique bottle shapes as well as graphic shapes on the package itself can be seen from across the room, contributing to your brand’s overall mood. If you are producing a significant quantity of packages, consider creating a unique profile with a custom mold. This is a great way to stand out from smaller brands that use existing generic stock components. If you are working with stock components, you may opt to specify less commonly used items, such as lids, pumps and caps to distinguish yourself. If you aren’t able to use a custom mold or source unique components, bold and exciting graphics may be the way to stand out. Examine your competitive shelf set to inform graphic choices. Consider the overall market tone to find what is missing. More often than not, you will see that competitors fall into conventions that you would do best to avoid. For example, if everyone else is using typography without imagery, you should explore using photography or illustration. Test your ideas by looking at how these elements are experienced from across the room. The shapes should be strong and simple enough to be more impactful than those of your surrounding competitors.
Create a Clear Hierarchy Once you’ve grabbed your customer’s attention, your logo, brand name and product name should be discernible from approximately 4 feet (an average aisle width) away. As their eyes scan across
Competitive Retail Packaging
different products, they will begin to understand what each product does and the personality of the brand behind it. Create a clear hierarchy to make this process quick and intuitive for the consumer.
Levels of Hierarchy It is important to establish a brand architecture—determine the levels of information on your package and what elements to prioritize. How do you want your target customer to navigate your brand? Is it by flavor, scent, or ingredient? Or perhaps it is by problem/solution? Depending on the complexity of your line, you might need to communicate the efficacy level within a good/better/ best system. As a general rule, effective packaging clearly communicates what the product does, while also helping to suggest that you have products to meet other needs.
Consistent Placement for Easy Scanning Careful consideration should be given to how the hierarchical elements of your product are placed on the package. The logo, product name and description should be arranged in a way that reflects your priorities, while also being visually pleasing. Aesthetics are important. However, it is more crucial that consistent placement of these elements on the package face allows consumers to determine quality differences in a quick scan of your products. If your products are of similar sizes, there should be a consistent alignment for the logo, product name and descriptions. If products are of varying sizes and shapes, this may not be possible. In these instances, the placement of elements should be at consistent ratios from package to package. As your line grows and new products are added, be sure to adhere to your established hierarchy. While it may be tempting to use new discoveries to tweak the packaging with each new product addition, this will lead to inconsistency and brand dilution. Instead, redesign all packages once you’ve compiled several changes that need to be made.
Entice Interaction Armed with an understanding of your brand and product offering, your customer should be enticed to pick it up. Since this interaction is equal parts visual and tactile, it should be used to guide choices about components, materials, special accents and dispensing methods. These extra details will further differentiate you from competitors and are a big part of the enduring at-home experience of using the product.
Choose Cohesive Components and Materials Whenever possible, it’s best to choose consistent packaging components so your bottles, tubs, caps, pumps etc. all work together as a cohesive set. Visually unrelated components not only create consumer confusion at retail but can also be an indication of different manufacturers and inconsistent quality of goods. Gather your products together to inform sound material choices. Within a single product tier, all containers should have the same finish and cap color. The shapes of these containers should be cohesive as well. Even among a variety of shapes, design details, such as rounded or square edges, can unify the shapes so all products seem to be the same set.
Choose Materials that Correspond to Price Point Another crucial factor that affects material choice is your target price point. Is your brand a luxury or economy item? Where is it being sold, and what competitive products do your target customers consider? You need to choose materials that are attractive to your customer and correspond to your price point. Choosing low-quality materials for a luxury product may save money in the short term, but will likely denigrate the value and perception of your brand in the long run. Think about what your target customers will be proud to display in their homes.
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Use Special Accents to Indicate a Premium or Hero Product You may have a premium product or line that is at a much higher price point than the rest of your products. If this is the case, your material choices should be consistent with the rest of your products, with one or two decisive departures to indicate a jump in quality. This is what is commonly referred to as good/better/ best, or in our simplified example, good versus premium. In this scenario, you will want to make your overall material choices first, choosing cohesive components and materials that are in line with the average price of the brand. For the hero product, do something extra to give it a more distinctive feel. You can choose a different kind of bottle and dispensing method, so the experience of picking up and using the product feels different. You may also consider other touches to make this product stand out: foil stamp accents, a unique hangtag, special seal, etc. The possibilities are limitless, and any of these strategies are valid. However, don’t get caught up in adding every bell and whistle. Resolve to choose one thing and stick with it, ensuring that
Establish a brand architecture by determining the levels of information on your package and what elements to prioritize. this product indicates premium quality but still fits into a cohesive product lineup.
Consider Memorable Dispensing Methods How your product is dispensed becomes a distinct part of the brand, as noteworthy as the formulation itself. Often these unique experiences are what consumers will associate with your brand every time they use the product at home. Success here could position you as a leader in your category. Get to know the formulations and use the products that you will package. What is the viscosity of the product and what dispensing method will serve it best? Whether it’s a pump, roller, dropper or
something else, the choice needs to make sense for ease of product application.
Putting It All Together Creating competitive packaging that resonates with consumers is not the result of a single designer’s creative genius. Rather, it’s an objective, collaborative process informed by a number of factors along the way. Let your brand voice, target customers, competitors and price point guide you toward rational graphic and material choices. Evaluate prototypes next to surrounding competitors, using the analysis above, to ensure that your packaging gets noticed. This way, you will know exactly how to position your brand effectively. These design strategies will set you up for success, enabling you to rise far above the competitive noise that is so pervasive in the retail environment. n GCI
SHERI L. KOETTING is the co-founder and chief strategist of MSLK, a marketing and design agency based in New York. MSLK specializes in helping beauty brands find their voice in today’s crowded marketplace through 360° brand positioning—from overall brand strategy to brand identity, packaging, retail experience, websites and social media campaigns. email@example.com; www.mslk.com
Competitive Retail Packaging
brand strategy: social Media
Delivering strong social content that reinforces core brand strategies and messages.
Social media is a great forum for brands to tell powerful stories that promote their cause-related activities.
Beauty brands should use visual platforms, like Instagram and Pinterest, to post more than just product shots.
Themes that are important to building strong brands—people/ employees, ingredient stories, brand history/heritage stories—are broadly neglected in social media by the beauty category.
Brand heritage represents a huge opportunity for social content.
Brand Strategy: Social Media
BY MARTYN TIPPING, BRAND CHORUS
n the beauty category, brands have embraced their role as storytellers, and look to inspire us with commercials that resemble movies, packaging that mimics poetry and ever more romantic ingredient stories. But when it comes to social media, many brands are still struggling to connect their content to their broader brand themes and stories that would promote cross-generational appeal. Social media is still very much the Wild West when it comes to storytelling. Brands that spend a fortune managing their image and messaging across every other platform have a surprisingly laissez-faire attitude to social media. With major beauty brands making actual posts, such as “I just want to say that I am so happy it’s Friday #HelloWeekend” and “Well hello there, first weekend of October,” it’s no surprise that a recent CMO survey showed that only 20% felt that their social media was well integrated with their marketing strategy. Telling stories on social media can feel daunting given the demands for fresh content every day, and the constraints imposed by 140 character Tweets or six-second Vines. That being said, here are six tips to help beauty brands make CMOs happy by delivering strong social content that reinforces the core brand strategy and messages.
GCI May 2015
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brand strategy: Social Media
1. Don’t obsess about being popular
When it comes to social media, 80% of U.S. marketers measure the effectiveness of their content with metrics, such as likes and retweets. But being popular isn’t all it’s cracked up to be—remember those teen horror movies where the most popular character always gets killed off first? In social media, it’s easy to get likes and retweets—just ask an open-ended question, such as “How are you getting ready for summer?,” and the likes and shares will flood in. But posts from beauty brands, like “RT if shaving your armpits is a part of your daily shower routine” or “It’s Adopt a Shelter Dog Month! Post a picture below. We’d love to see your adopted animal,” do little to support marketing strategy or further a brand’s story.
2. It’s about more than product
StoryScore recently analyzed the social media posts of 10 beauty brands for one month and found that content promoting individual products accounted for one in four of all posts. The majority of these posts followed the same formula of product packaging photo + caption, and quickly got lost in a sea of similar-looking content. But with a bit of effort and imagination, product posts can be made eye-catching and memorable. For example, Olay Fresh Effects promoted its Acne Control Scrub with a colorful, fall-inspired back-toschool outfit on Instagram, while Clinique showcased its Grandest Grape Chubby Stick by showing it beautifully photographed in a bowl of grapes (also on Instagram). Product innovation is the lifeblood of the beauty category, so it’s not surprising that posts promoting these are the single most dominant theme across the 10 brands in the StoryScore study. But it is surprising that so many other themes that are important to building strong brands—people/employees, ingredient stories, brand history/heritage stories—are broadly neglected by the beauty category. None of the above themes accounted for more than 1% of social
media posts in October 2014, while posts about celebrities accounted for 6%.
3. Understand your audiences For seven out of 10 brands in the StoryScore study, Twitter was the dominant social platform, accounting for up to 78% of all the social content they posted. Twitter’s dominance is surprising given that more online women prefer Facebook, Pinterest, LinkedIn or Instagram to Twitter. Facebook is, of course, still the most popular social platform, attracting 71% of all female Internet users, according to the Pew Research Center. The only brand to use Facebook as its dominant platform in the StoryScore study was Urban Decay. Instagram is the place to be to catch the attention of online women ages 18–29, 53% of whom are regular users. This explains why Instagram is the dominant platform for both MAC and Too-Faced. Pinterest is also popular with younger audiences (34% of online women), as well as older audiences (27% of online women ages 50–64). Beauty brands should use visual platforms, like Instagram and Pinterest, to post more than just product shots. MAC posts great content from behind the runway at fashion shows on Instagram, while Fresh Beauty uses Pinterest to showcase beautiful mood boards and lifestyle imagery.
4. Give your audience a reason to care
Social media is a great forum for brands to tell powerful stories that promote their cause-related activities. Supporting a meaningful cause is also a great way of building relationships with millennial consumers, who typically spend 25% more on beauty products than the U.S. average. In the StoryScore study, cause-related posts accounted for less than 10% of social content across all brands. Dove is the leader in causerelated content, with 42% of all posts relating to its self-esteem/Real Beauty campaign. The brands posting the least amount of causerelated social content included Maybelline, Kiehl’s, MAC Cosmetics and Urban Decay.
5. Color comes from context and authenticity
On its Pinterest page, Benefit Cosmetics has a “Beauty Throwbacks” gallery showcasing old products, advertising and other memorabilia from the brand’s history. This is a fun way of engaging consumers, especially those from the boomer generation, while also reassuring them of the brand’s heritage and longevity. In the StoryScore study, only three out of 10 brands posted content related to brand heritage—Kiehls, Maybelline and Too Faced. This represents a huge missed opportunity for other brands in the study, and for any other brand that is not digging into the corporate archives to find inspiration for social content. Younger brands that don’t yet have corporate archives are also able to weave their (shorter) history into social content. For example, Espionage Cosmetics, an “all nerd” makeup company founded in 2011 and funded by Kickstarter, posts photos and unboxing videos from backers as well as a gallery of photos from all conventions that the brand has exhibited at since it was founded. As brands look to develop more robust social content strategies, storytelling will only become more important across social media. For many beauty brands there is still a steep learning curve before they master social media in the same way that they have mastered other forms of expression like advertising, packaging and promotions. n GCI
Martyn Tipping is CEO, Brand Chorus, the social business intelligence practice of brand consultancy TippingGardner, and home of StoryScore. Prior to founding TippingGardner in 2000, Tipping was director of verbal branding at Landor Associates, New York where he led branding programs for a wide array of clients, including Delta Air Lines, United Cerebral Palsy, Motorola, Xerox, AT&T and Ford Motor Company. Tipping also worked on some of the biggest corporate name changes in the 90s (Verizon, Accenture and Altria, among them). Tipping holds an MA in modern languages and social psychology from the University of Cambridge, England, and is a former faculty member at Georgetown University, where he taught brand strategy in the MBA program.
46 Brand Strategy: Social Media GCI May 2015
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When a brand talks about overcoming a negative in order to maximize consumer interest and appeal, there is a right way and wrong way to do it.
BY SCOTT GARRISON
In general, positive messages outperform negative ones, as consumers gravitate toward products that make them feel good rather than those that remind them of a negative experience.
By clearly describing the tangible benefits that a product can offer, consumers are more likely to recognize the message as relevant and thus build a connection with the product or brand.
A negative message can be strengthened by linking it to a positive benefit that represents aspirations of the consumer.
om always said, if you don’t have something nice to say, don’t say anything at all. In the world of marketing claims, it is sometimes necessary to talk about some not-to-nice things like sweat, body odor, hair loss and wrinkles. When a brand must talk about overcoming a negative to maximize consumer interest and appeal, there is a right way and wrong way to do it. Oral care is one category that relies heavily on messages about overcoming negative elements. Predicted to reach $8.4 billion in retail sales in 2018, this market is primarily dominated by two categories, toothpaste and mouthwash, which account for nearly 64% of the market by value. Although many of these products tout positive elements such as “a whiter smile in just one week,” the main value proposition lies in overcoming a negative such as teeth stains, plaque and bad breath. The challenge in this category becomes how marketers create a state of need by appealing to aspirations for healthier teeth or fresher breath without turning off consumers with negative elements.
Researchers at the marketing research consultancy SKIM examined more than 850 marketing messages in 16 categories, including cosmetics, personal care and foods, and were able to clearly identify certain best practices for crafting marketing messages—even when that message includes a negative component. The study included a broad range of interrelated categories, ensuring a universally tested framework that can be applied across a number of markets for developing winning marketing messages. One of the main principles uncovered by the research echoes the “stay positive” philosophy Mom taught us from an early age. In general, positive messages outperform negative ones, as consumers gravitate toward products that make them feel good rather than those that remind them of a negative experience. From a branding perspective, staying positive is also a key strategy for building positive brand associations over time. After all, Dove created the “Real Beauty” campaign to make women feel better about themselves and create positive brand associations, not to remind
GCI May 2015
women of negative aspects and make them feel worse. While this principle of being positive is important to keep in mind, there are times when a negative simply must be addressed. There are even instances in which referring to a negative is preferred, as long as it adheres to these four best practices.
Make a Meaningful Promise SKIM’s analysis revealed that it is critical that marketing messages make a value promise that addresses a consumer’s need or desire. From that perspective, it would be fair to conclude that toothpaste brands should focus their messaging on the aspiration of whiter looking teeth or fresh breath. While it is important to make this promise, it would present too generic of a message if communicated in isolation. In other words, it would fail to establish differentiation in such a crowded market.
Be Specific About Tangible Benefits
In addition to calling upon the proper desires and aspirations, effective messages are also characterized by a fairly high level of specificity. By clearly describing the tangible benefits that a product can offer, consumers are more likely to recognize the message as relevant and thus build a connection with the product or brand. Most of the time these tangible benefits are positively framed, e.g. the moisturizing quality of lotions, the fragrance of a perfume or the styling strength of hair gel. But sometimes these specific benefits can be negative in nature, such as a laundry detergent’s ability to remove stains, a soap’s ability to remove dirt or an anti-aging cream’s ability to prevent wrinkles. Unhealthy teeth are often characterized by stains and cavities. As such, avoiding stains is a consumer’s tangible short cut to achieving the aspiration of having a healthy-looking smile. Addressing the negative (stains, in this instance) helps build a connection with consumers and is a critical component of making the message successful. Nonetheless, using a negative in marketing communications remains a delicate affair, and adding specificity can help prevent the alienation of consumers. www.GCImagazine.com
Neutralize Negativity Sometimes a negative simply must be addressed—be it to build credibility with consumers or to emphasize a key benefit. However, marketing messages should, whenever possible, address the negative element in a neutral way. After all, “banish those unsightly yellow teeth stains” will most likely turn away potential consumers who do not want to be reminded in such an explicit way of the negative symptoms they are hoping to prevent. Addressing the symptom in a neutral way, such as “protection from teeth stains,” ensures that the marketing message is respectful and avoids offending the consumer, a common misstep SKIM has seen in numerous categories over the past decade.
Maintain a Balancing Act Lastly, a negative message can be further strengthened by linking it to a positive benefit that represents aspirations of the consumer. In the toothpaste example, the aspiration is to achieve and maintain a healthy, white smile or fresh breath. It is critical to link the negative elements with positive aspirations to ensure the overall message leaves a positive impression in the consumer’s mind. For instance, “effectively protects against teeth stains for a beautiful and healthy smile” is recommended over “effectively protects against teeth stains.” With this in mind, there is one caveat: Sometimes there is not enough space to address both the negative concern and the positive aspiration in one message. In such instances, brands can cover the positive aspiration in a secondary message or bring it to life through creative copy. In today’s competitive world, creating a meaningful connection with consumers is more critical than ever. By crafting a message that addresses negative aspects in as neutral of a way as possible, and linking it to a positive aspiration, one can minimize the potential for negative associations and create a powerful and lasting connection. n GCI
SCOTT GARRISON is a manager at SKIM. He is experienced in conducting marketing communication development projects for consumer products, beauty and technology brands. He oversees SKIM’s claim development methods with a focus on emotional claims. Brand Messaging
CONSUMER FOCUS GROUPS
7 REASONS TO ADD FOCUS GROUPS TO YOUR MARKETING MIX Delve into consumer insights in a unique, personal way.
BY DENISE HERICH, THE BENCHMARKING COMPANY
IMPACT POINTS n
A series of focus groups can help to test the theories and formulate the hypothesis for the next level of study, or to dive deeper into quantitative survey results already conducted.
Focus groups are one of the fastest ways to get a great detail of consumer feedback.
Focus groups are one of the only means of delving deeply into conversations to uncover explicit, usable information.
Well-conducted focus groups bring out creative, insightful ideas from participants, where all input is welcomed and encouraged.
Consumer Focus Groups
avvy beauty brands conduct research prior to launching SKUs or making major changes in many ways, with clinical research, online consumer studies and beauty product testing to name just a few. Increasingly, smart beauty brands are also including a tried-and-true qualitative method of testing before big changes: the focus group. Focus group testing for the beauty industry holds a special appeal. The products we are selling are personal and often intimate, which gives us the chance to establish a special emotional bond with the consumer. It also means she will watch very closely and with emotion each advertisement, communications and new product development or change you make. Focus groups allow brands to delve into her perceptions, opinions, beliefs and attitudes about products and messages in a unique, personal way.
A series of focus groups can help to test the theories and formulate the hypothesis for the next level of study, or to dive deeper into quantitative survey results already conducted. Here are seven reasons to consider adding focus groups to your marketing mix.
The woman of your dreams is sitting 10 feet away.
Focus group recruitment is highly targeted, with each group consisting of 5-10 participants who mirror your exact target customer. This enables you to see and hear honest feedback about your brand from just the consumers you are trying to win in a short time frame. As a brand, you have control over the panelists in your focus group. If you are
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. ÂŠ 2015 Allured Business Media.
GCI May 2015
a prestige brand selling cosmetics only at high-end department stores and at Sephora, your research partner will be able to develop a “screener” to recruit panelists who shop at those very stores and spend “X” number of dollars per year on cosmetics. Or, if your brand sells primarily to a specific age or ethnic group, your recruitment can be screened accordingly, and you’ll hear from the consumers who matter most to you.
2. You can mix it up. When conducting focus groups, we generally recommend three groups of “like” participants. Although there is no statistical validity to focus groups since they are qualitative in nature, patterns emerge from one group to the next, and you won’t want to rely on just one group’s input for guidance. That said, you can ask similar questions to groups that are different from one another, for a multifaced perception. For example, a brand wanted to know the opinions from three groups of brand loyalists, and three groups of women who have never tried the brand. The differences in perception between the groups gave the brand important feedback for adjusting its messaging to women who haven’t tried the brand previously, as well as how to strengthen messages to its loyalists.
turnaround 3. Quick of results. Focus groups are one of the fastest ways to get a great detail of consumer feedback. In just four weeks, your research partner should be able to reserve a focus group facility, develop a screener and moderator’s guide, recruit the participants, conduct the focus groups and present the final report of strategic findings to you.
signals are 4. Physical priceless. As you sit behind the double-sided mirror and watch your focus group in action, you are able to see how the panelists interact with your product. www.GCImagazine.com
Are they using it as you intended it to be used? Are they having trouble opening it? Do they understand the directions instantly? Watching a group also allows you to notice facial expressions that are a crucial giveaway to her true feelings. Along with a squeal of glee at smelling, tasting or using a product for the first time, a subconscious furrowed brow sends an instant message! Immediate reaction to a product’s message, package or sensory application can be a strong indicator of buying behavior. Today’s more sophisticated focus group facilities also offer other high tech capabilities for capturing physical reactions. Eye-charting capabilities, as an example, can track where a respondent’s eyes look first—or last—when presented with a product or message, allowing you to adjust messages or imagery for a stronger attraction.
questions get 5. Probing to the root of the issue. A good focus group moderator will have her moderator’s guide at the ready, with questions that she and you agree should be asked. Focus groups don’t follow a linear progression with questions and answers, though, because it’s intimate and conversational. Respondents might provide an answer to a question about a product or message, with an example of a product or message that appealed to her more. The moderator should be able to quickly probe for deeper answers based on the developing conversation, while keeping the group on track. Focus groups are one of the only means of delving deeply into conversations to uncover explicit, usable information.
than you 6. More bargained for. One of the greatest reasons to conduct focus groups is to find new ideas for products or services based on need. Focus group participants love to share their product frustrations, wants, needs and the solutions they’d like to find. Well-conducted focus groups bring out creative, insightful ideas from participants, where all input is welcomed and encouraged.
Validation of a concept or avoiding million dollar mistakes.
So often we feel we know what the consumer is going to say, feel or think. We’ve identified the advertisement, model, perfume bottle shape or product name that we’re convinced is the winner. Thirty minutes into the first focus group we’re surprised and dismayed that our favorites are being given the thumbs down and a few ideas we didn’t think were so hot are the talk of the table. We counsel clients that it’s good to hear what we feel uncomfortable hearing. This is why we’re listening—so we can improve and meet her real needs. One of my favorite case studies is an international skin care company who felt the customer was not relating to their brand. It was decided to renew the brand, and the machine began with several new images evolving. The basis for the theory that the customer was not relating as well to the brand was solely executive intuition. In a series of several multicity focus groups, it became quickly apparent that not only did the customers love the brand, they had very little interest in even the slightly altercation to it. However, several key insights evolved that helps the company to see where it could strengthen the brand relationship. The non-rebranding “campaign” saved the company more than $20 million. Focus groups are most commonly by beauty brands for these reasons: • Brand awareness • Message testing • Advertising/infomercial testing/ awareness • Package design testing • Product/company name change testing • New concepts/SKUs • Simple use testing n GCI
DENISE HERICH is co-founder and managing partner at The Benchmarking Company, a bi-coastal consumer research firm borne from Alisa Beyer’s The Beauty Company. The Benchmarking Company provides marketing and strategy professionals in the beauty and personal care industries with forward-thinking, need-to-know information about its customers and prospects through consumer research studies and beauty product testing.
Consumer Focus Groups
The latest in Packaging innovation
global closiure systems
Yves Rocher selected Touareg, a lightweight 35 mm snap-hinge cap designed by Global Closure Systems (GCS), for its new tube range. The closure has been developed for personal care and cosmetic applications for style and quality, while at the same time being eco-friendly. Touareg offers an optimized weight of 4 g, and is 20% lighter than the previous version. This has reduced the carbon footprint to 13.8 eq CO2/cap. The closure features a butterfly hinge, offering one-hand dispensing for enhanced convenience. www.gcs.com
Brookfield Engineering Laboratories offered the new redesigned TA-CLT Capsule Loop Tensile Test Fixture for the CT3 Tester. The Capsule Loop Test Fixture is designed to measure the tensile breaking strength of hard gel capsules. The gel cap is mounted between two pins, which pull apart, thereby measuring the force required to rupture the cap. The Brookfield CT3 Tester is the best value in a standalone instrument for physical testing. It combines simplicity of operation with expanded test method capability and operates in both compression and tension modes. www.brookfieldengineering.com
Brookfield Engineering Laboratories
Mktg Industry won Best Eco Design Packaging 2015 at Cosmoprof/ Cosmopack 2015. The new Italian startup company (pictured) made a makeup compact case entirely manufactured using only 100% recycled cardboard and recycled paper, an eco-alternative to plastic.
The 22nd South China International Exhibition on Printing Technology (known as Printing South China 2015) and the 2015 China International Exhibition on Label Printing Technology (known as SinoLabel 2015) had crowd numbers exceeding exhibitors’ expectations. Held in March, the fairs featured 54,396 visitors from more than 130 countries and regions, with overseas visitors taking up 9,152 of the total number. The fairs were expanded to include nine main halls, reaching over 90,000 square miles of exhibition area for more than 1,200 exhibitors. Visitors were able to grasp latest trends, technologies and applications from various special zones and concurrent events, which contributed to shaping a more detailed overview of the printing and labeling industries for them. The 23rd South China International Exhibition on Printing Technology (Printing South China 2016), 2016 China International Exhibition on Label Printing Technology (Sino-Label 2016), The 23rd China International Exhibition on Packaging Machinery & Materials (Sino-Pack 2016) and 2016 China (Guangzhou) International Exhibition on Packaging Products (PACKINNO 2016) will be held March 2-4, 2016 at Area B, Pazhou exhibition center.
M&H Plastics, part of the RPC Group of companies, produced a wide range of packaging for the SASS brand of intimate care products, which has launched in Boots stores throughout the U.K. The packaging for the nine products included 100 mL non-aerosol tubulars (5324) in HDPE with a matt over-cap (8397) and 30 mL tubulars (5024). The bottles were completed with serum and spray pumps. One-hundred-mL tubes were also supplied for the cream, serum and gel products, finished with rounded flip-top closures. www.mhplastics.com
Stylish & Eco-Friendly
Qosmedix launched a new collection of nylon mesh pouches that include a convenient metal zipper closure. Available in five bold colors, including red (part # 59923), black (part # 59924), pink (part # 59925), silver (part # 59926) and gold (part # 59927). These useful mesh pouches are ideal for packaging samples, creating promotional giveaways, and retail sale. www.qosmedix.com
52 Wrap Up GCI May 2015
Albéa’s Artist Bubble tube
Albéa’s Artist Bubble tube was utilized for Marionnaud Paris’ launch of its new Hydra&Sublim BB Eye Cream. Albéa achieved a highly elegant décor on this tube: a light beige base color decorated with silver screen printing. Artist Bubble is an on-the-go tube with a sponge pad for the application of anti-wrinkle cream, eye shadow cream, liquid blush or gloss. The foam applicator dispenses the product gradually, so that blending in by gentle patting gives a professional finish. Artist Bubble offers exceptional performances in terms of accuracy, simplicity in use and practicality. www.albea-group.com
A natural touch
Pujolasos launched a new line of wooden luxury droppers. Available in different colors and finishes, each shows off a balanced aesthetics with the unique distinction of wood without sacrificing functionality. All the wood the company works with is certified with the PEFC seal, an international seal promoting the sustainable overall management of forests, from forest managers to companies that transform forest products to the end customer. Through the PEFC certificate, customers receive a guarantee they are buying sustainably managed forest products, and that they are also helping to combat illegal logging. www.pujolasos.com.
Jack Black LLC selected TricorBraun to design packaging for eight new products in their men’s hair care collection. The chosen design was a 16-ounce PET flask shape in dark green, topped with a black pump closure. A distinctive feature of the new bottle was an embossed script Jack Black “signature” molded into each side panel. The new flask shape is now also used to package Jack Black’s skin care products, replacing earlier stock Boston round bottles. In addition, the packaging is labeled with a diamond-shaped, pressure-sensitive label, originally designed by Jack Black. It carries the Jack Black signature and is embossed with a red JB monogram that suggests an antique wax seal. The complete new Jack Black hair care line includes products in tubes, on which all decoration is silk screened, and in jars sourced by TricorBraun, which have the diamond label design pad-stamped on the jar lids. www.tricorbraun.com.
Wrap Up 53
Ingredients now on the market
Lilac-based hair repair
Naolys is using lilac to repair and add shine to hair. Healthy Shine Lilac has a multifunctional effect on hair, acting on all three parts of the hair: the root, the scalp and the shaft. The lilac extract reduces inflammation at the hair bulb and scalp, reduces oxidation at the hair bulb and increases energy production at the hair bulb. Lilac extract also repairs the hair shaft, where mechanical damage takes place, to enhance shine. Therefore, it is said to soothe irritation, smooth hair and reinforce hair’s natural protection to prevent damage. In addition, it restores shine to hair and energizes hair at the roots. Despite its small size (2-5 m), the lilac shrub can live for up to 40 years. It has been used medicinally for tonic and antipyretic effects in addition to its decorative use. Healthy Shine Lilac is non-allergenic, preservative-free and can be used in any formulation from skin care to makeup applications. Ecocert or COSMOS agreement is available on request. www.naolys.com
Troy Corp. created a series of customized broad-spectrum preservative blends for personal care applications. TroyCare FE allows the formulator to select one of three broad-spectrum blends with varying levels of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC) for their formulations, yielding the lowest total preservative cost. TroyCare FE broad-spectrum preservative blends contain IPBC in phenoxyethanol. Three different blend ratios are offered: TroyCare FE003 with 0.3% IPBC, TroyCare FE01 with 1.0% IPBC and TroyCare FE02 with 2.0% IPBC. The blends are supplied in a liquid form. For example, TroyCare FE02 is used to preserve shampoos, conditioners, creams, lotions, sunscreens, makeup and many other personal care cosmetics and toiletries. It has global approvals (including Japan) for rinse-off and leave-on products. www.troycorp.com
Face- and neck-lifting active
SUPPLIER NEWS Henkel has honored WACKER with its “Best Innovation Contributor Beauty Care 2014” recognition. The award recognizes the development of a new silicone microemulsion that eases the combing of healthy and damaged wet and dry hair by forming a protective film on its surface. The microemulsion also makes hair feel softer and silky and protects it from heat damage caused by hair dryers. The microemulsion can be applied to shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, pump sprays, styling applications, and products that prevent fading and heat damage. Additional supplier awards were bestowed upon BASF, Stepan and Solvay. Ashland Specialty Ingredients’ N-DurHance A-1000 conditioning polymer has won a 2015 China Personal Care & Cosmetics Innovation Award. The honor recognizes the acrylate-based homopolymer’s hair repair and conditioning properties, which restore virgin hair qualities. Lubrizol has received a Good Manufacturing Practice certification, according to the European Federation for Cosmetics Ingredients (EFfCI). The certification is based on guidelines for product quality and industry hygiene during the manufacturing process. Lubrizol’s certification applies to its manufacturing of acrylic acid polymers in Kallo, Belgium. Gattefossé has obtained exclusive rights to develop and commercialize cosmetic active ingredients obtained using NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents) technology, which reportedly allows for the “creation of active compositions unattainable with conventional solvents.” The technology is non-toxic, natural and efficient at low temperatures, according to Gattefossé, which supports sustainable development initiatives. Greentech’s Dandrilys anti-dandruff active has been Natrue-certified. The product reportedly reduces dandruff, normalizes sebum production, mitigates scalp irritation and facilitates the growth of healthy hair. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ SWT-7 and Lecigel appeared on the shortlist for the in-cosmetics Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards. SWT-7 is an active that smooths skin, blurs vertical wrinkles, repairs skin texture, reduces lip contour wrinkles and roughness, and reduces migration of lipstick.
Sederma has debuted its lifting active for the face and neck. Majestem, a plant cell culture, neutralizes the oxidative stress caused by pollution and irradiation to lift the skin. In three weeks, sagging neck skin was tightened from 10.6% to 56%, and neck folds were evened out. After six weeks, the cheeks were visibly lifted and crow’s feet wrinkles were smoothed from 11% to 75%. The active complies with the Chinese regulation for cosmetic ingredients. www.sederma.fr
Mibelle Biochemistry has been awarded the 2014 European Award for New Product Innovation Leadership for its sustainable development of snow algae powder, an active ingredient with anti-aging skin care applications. The algae, which increase klothogene levels and neutralizes collagen degradation in skin, are encapsulated to boost the ingredient’s bioavailability.
Oily skin solution
NuSil Technology has appointed Ernest Waaser as its CEO and as a member of its board of directors. Waaser joined the company earlier this year and has more than 30 years of experience, including management roles at Systagenix Wound Management, Teleflex Medical, Hill-Rom, Sterling Diagnostic Imaging and DuPont.
Oily skin has met its match with Silab’s new wild rose berry (Rosa canina) extract. Seocytine is a sebum-regulating active ingredient rich in wild rose berry flavonoids that improve the comfort of Caucasian and Asian skin. The extract reduces the surface of pores and limits skin shininess and imperfections for an anti-oily skin effect. Tested on a panel of male and female volunteers, it was found to normalize sebum production, tighten pores and control shine on the skin. Skin was purified and freed from imperfections, restoring both comfort and beauty. The extract is recommended in all matifying and anti-blemish skin care. It is compliant with Europe, USA, Japan and China cosmetic regulations. www.silab.fr
Arvind Shah has been named senior chemist, personal care division, at Micro Powders. Unigen has appointed Regan Miles president and CEO. Miles has more than 30 years of industry experience and has held roles with Nature’s Way, Pharmanex and Alpine Health. From 2002 until 2007, Miles served as Unigen’s president and CEO.
54 Main Ingredients GCI May 2015
Wacker has debuted two silicone elastomer gels that improve skin feel in skin care and color cosmetics. BELSIL EG 1 and BELSIL REG 102 improve spreadability and exhibit pronounced shearthinning attributes. They are solid at rest but convert to a liquid state in response to shear stress, allowing for quick spreading on the skin. The gels can be modified for desired consistency and sensory effects. BELSIL REG 102 is a multifunctional active ingredient for skin care applications and decorative cosmetic products. The gel forms a water-repellent film that adheres well to the skin without becoming sticky, thus providing long-wear benefits to formulations, such as lipsticks, makeup and sunscreens. It also adds a pleasant and silky-soft skin feeling to moisturizers and night creams. Conversely, BELSIL EG 1 is intended for cosmetic products that are not required to meet high demands on water and transfer resistance. BELSIL EG 1 is preferred for enhancing skin-sensory properties in skin care creams, mascaras, skin cleansers and deodorants. www.wacker.com
Surfactant for facial cleansers
Croda has created an effective, yet mild, surfactant to create luxurious advanced facial cleansers. Inspired by the East, Cithrol 10GTIS allows the use of skin care oils in cleansers to gently and efficiently cleanse and soften the skin, while being easily rinsed off with water. www.croda.com
Tri-K provides immediate and long-term moisturization in its latest launch, Fision Hydrate. Based on a consumer perception study, the moisturizer left skin instantly feeling smoother and better moisturized when compared to a commercial lotion and the placebo. Consumers also felt it improved absorbance while limiting perceptions of tackiness and greasiness. It is designed to improve hydration, support barrier function and quench the skin’s thirst. www.tri-k.com
Sederma has launched Apiscalp, a scalp care treatment that fights dandruff, itching, dryness and hyperseborrhea. Applicable to oily and dry scalps alike, the plant-based ingredient has reduced dandruff size and scalp itching in trials, while also decreasing sebum production of oily scalps by 47% over a seven-day period. www.sederma.fr
The Andean people have been using quillaja to clean skin and treat skin disorders for centuries. Research has confirmed its calming and dermo-purifying properties. Naturex sourced quillaja to create a natural surfactant. Because it is extremely rich in saponins, Sapnov possesses unique foaming properties. Sustainably sourced in the Chilean forest, the plant is efficiently processed in a facility located close to the harvesting areas. This quillaja extract can be used as a natural, non-ionic, non-allergenic surfactant, bringing softness and naturalness to skin care, hair care, baby care and oral care products. www.naturex.com www.GCImagazine.com
Main Ingredients 55
MAIN INGREDIENTS Prismatic Pigments
Impact Colors, Inc. has launched its Chromagix prismatic pigments at in-cosmetics, which react to the movement and intensity of light and change depending on the angle of the viewer. The products can be applied to chameleon-like hair coloring products, for instance, or fragrant powders for brides that impart a “sparkling veil of lightcatching color” wherever applied. The pigments could also be used in hair sprays and gels with a clear base, or creams and lotions with opaque bases for a “surprise” color effect. The range includes iridescent Diamond Variables, interference Kaleidoscope Colors, twin-effect Gemini Colors. The ingredients can be applied at levels between 1% to 3%. www.impactcolorsinc.com.
According to Gattefossé, “Age spots are the third major symptom of aging in European women, after wrinkles and sagging.” At incosmetics, the company launched its Gatuline Spot-Light age spot corrector, a natural skin complexion brightener for less visible age spots. The ingredient is derived from Sophora flavescens and kiwi fruit, which are rich in sophoraflavanone G and matrine. Gatuline Spot-Light targets the causes of age spots on both epidermal and dermal levels, targeting melanin synthesis and boosting the natural desquamation process. www.gattefosse.com
skin & hair actives, standardized naturals Lipoid Kosmetik has launched a natural antibacterial, anti-dandruff active, usNeo, at in-cosmetics. The botanical active, derived from lichen Usnea barbata, contains the active ingredient usnic acid and can be applied in anti-dandruff shampoos and related hair care products. In vitro studies showed a reduction of dandruff by 69.5% after 28 days of application. SLM 2038 Skin Lipid Matrix, a multilamellar cream, is produced from non-GMO sunflower phospholipids and is applicable in skin care products to protect the skin and support its natural barrier function by replacing missing barrier-lipids. LC Herbasol is a new series of standardized botanical liquid extracts for cosmetic applications. These lead compounds are defined molecules, or a defined class of substances being most typical for a given extract. A range has been defined for each extract and lead compound, ensuring consistency and reproducable concentrations. www.lipoid-kosmetik.com
cosmetic active launches
AkzoNobel launched DRY-FLO aesthetic modifiers at incosmetics, which are based on naturally-derived starch technology and have oil-adsorbing properties for lightweight products. The company also presented CELQUAT polymers for conditioning and improved deposition of actives in rinse-off products. It also showed ARMOCARE VGH-70 and ARQUAD PC quaternary surfactants that improve wet and dry combing of hair. AkzoNobel also launched AMPHOMER polymers for hold and humidity resistance in hair spray systems, regardless of VOC level. The company’s DERMACRYL polymers provide water resistance and SPF retention in sunscreens ranging from alcohol-based continuous sprays to alcohol-free emulsion systems. Its BIOSTYLE hybrid polymers boost hair volume and gel clarity for a natural touch in styling products. AkzoNobel’s BALANCE RCF polymer provides viscosity build with high clarity in the presence of surfactants, including sulfate-free systems. www.akzonobel.com
SEPPIC launched plant-based CERAMOSIDES HP at in-cosmetics, which contain 77% omega fatty acids (3, 6 and 9). The product improves skin texture via a strong effect on pores and boosts moisture levels (50% in 1 hour after application). The ingredient also inhibits the collagenase that is responsible for decreased firmness in skin and acts as an antioxidant. The company also launched SESAFLASH toner and TIMECODE wrinkle corrector, as well as the associative polymer SEPIMAX ZEN texturizer, which were demoed in an “Insta-Smooth Dazzling Blur.” SEPPIC also displayed MONTANOV L and SIMULSOL 165 emulsifiers and the moisturizing skin care material AQUAXYL in a “Shift Shaper Scrub.” The SEPIMAX ZEN ensures capsule suspension and uniformity throughout formulations with the aid of its highly elastic polymer network, which was shown in a color-morphing “Transforming BB Cream.” Finally, electrolyte-resistant SEPIMAX ZEN and the energizing mineral blend of GULF STREAM SEA WATER and SEPITONIC M3 were shown in a “Pop Rocks Energizing Mousse.” At in-cosmetics, the company’s BiotechMarine subsidiary launched EPHEMER, a cosmetic active ingredient derived from its CELEBRITY macroalgal cell culture innovations. EPHEMER is an anti-oxideant-containing gametophyte extract taken from macroalgae cells grown in a laboratory and harvested from Undaria pinnatifida seaweed. EPHEMER protects the skin by reducing free radicals and preserving mitochondrial DNA. www.seppic.com
Anti-pollution, Skin-care Actives
skin- and hair-care ingredients
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics introduced SWT-7, an anti-aging ingredient capable of stimulating keratinocyte proliferation to regenerate thin epidermis and to improve the look of aged and wrinkled skin, particularly vertical wrinkles and lip contour wrinkles. It can also reduce lipstick migration. The natural material is titrated in swertiamarin, an iridoid extracted from Indian gentian leaves. SWT-7 also comes in a liposoluble version based on a technology using phospholipid-based inverse emulsion, which are easy to add to oil formulas and lipstick.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
DSM Personal Care launched several ingredients appropriate for the Chinese market at PCHI. The company’s synthetic peptide SYNCOLL counteracts lines and wrinkles in the skin, while also refining pore appearance, improving skin texture and creating a lifted, sculpted look. DSM’s REGU-SCENCE, an ECOCERT-approved natural standardized bioactive derived from white asparagus from Spain, contains high levels of saponins for supporting skin autophagy capabilities against the damaging effects of pollution. REGUSCENCE can also even-out skin tone. www.dsm.com
56 Main Ingredients GCI May 2015
Microalgae skin soother
Soliance has launched Marillance, a red microalgae-extracted neuro-soother that reduces pain sensation by limiting the production of inflammation and neuro-inflammation mediators, which impact skin sensitivity and longevity. The colorless liquid is appropriate for neruo-cosmetic formulas.
Cosmetic actives and colors Inspired by the Ancients
At in-cosmetics 2015, BASF focused on “Ancient Wisdom,” a trend derived from its “Color Trends 2016.” This collection revolves around ideals of beauty and ideologies of the ancient world, calling for a color palette inspired by the Romantic and Renaissance eras. This color palette features nude, creamy tones and warm metallic gold. In addition to its range of gold pearls, the company launched a new generation of gold synthetic mica, with a pure white gold shade, which is able to give cosmetics from lip gloss to body serum a shimmering glow and shine. The company also introduced Cosmedia SP, an emulsifier with suspending and thickening properties for a non-sticky, silky and velvety sensory impact in all skin care applications. BASF’s liquid polymer Cosmedia Ace provides texture and versatility, as well as thickening, emulsifying and stabilizing properties. The ingredient is efficient in a spectrum of pH ranges. The company’s Rheocare HSP 1180 is a sensory modifier with a lubricious effect for a soft and plush afterfeel. The clear, viscous liquid solution can be used at a broad pH range and is effective at low concentrations. It reduces friction in applications for a lightness and quickness often associated with oils. BASF introduced Luviquat PQ11 AT 1, which imparts texture and hold to hair care products. The company’s natural sugar emulsifier, Emulgade Sucro, smooths down flyaway hair, conditions dry ends and provides a silky finish to hair. BASF’s anionic polymer Luviset One provides both gel creation and setting properties in hair-styling products, while the cationic polymer Luviquat Supreme AT1 boosts formulations’ styling performance. The material offers heat protection and strong long-lasting hold in hair mousses. BASF’s skin brightener Dermawhite WF is based on extracts from papaya, guava and saxifrage. The active ingredient is appropriate for application in whitening body or face care creams and lotions, as well as anti-spot-repairing sun care treatments, and inhibits the melanin synthesis by 90%. Its effect is reportedly three times higher than that of kojic acid. www.basfpersonalcare.com
Moisturizing micro particles
Botaneco has launched its Hydresia oleosomes, which consist of micro particles of emollient oils and vitamins that release their contents over time for delayed and long-lasting moisturization on skin or hair. The ingredient can be applied to personal care formulations such as hand sanitizer to enhance the skin feel of alcohol systems or bodywashes for immediate moisturization. A certified organic variety of the oleosomes is available. botaneco.ca www.GCImagazine.com
Main Ingredients 57
MAIN INGREDIENTS circadian skin regulation
Ashland has launched Chronogen YST, a yeast protein extract that “may help to maintain skin’s cellular rhythm and guard against UV damage.” The ingredient is engineered on the premise that skin cells, particularly gene expression, are somewhat regulated by humans’ 24-hour rhythms. External disruptors, such as UV exposure, can impact cell regeneration. To counteract these disruptions to the skin’s natural rhythm, Chronogen YST has been introduced to promote expression within clock gene proteins in vitro to “resynchronize optimal skin function,” according to Ashland. www.ashland.com
Contipro has introduced a multifunctional peptide that opens and activates proteasomes in cells for an anti-aging effect, including improvement of wrinkles, skin texture, elasticity, gloss, etc. Recelline offers a comprehensive solution to a number of signs of aging due to its focus on the natural process of cell regeneration. It deals not only with aging consequences, but also with their causes at a basic level. The active can address several of the main causes of aging simultaneously, reducing the need for a number of ingredients. It is recommended at 1–5% in day creams, night creams, eye creams and serums for a lightening, anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effect. www.contipro.com
Liquid Preservative Blend
Symrise has launched its plant juice collection, as well as SymOcide PH, a broad-spectrum liquid preservative blend as a one-product solution for coldprocess formulations, such as shampoos, wipes and lotions. The skin-friendly preservative system possesses antioxidant and moisturizing properties. The plant juice range, meanwhile, has antioxidant capacities and soothing properties. Meanwhile, pressed ginger juice, sourced from Sri Lanka, possesses some skin-brightening effects. The dandelion, horsetail, melissa, ribwort and stinging nettle juices are sourced in Germany. All are drawn from certified organic sources and produced without extraction agents. www.symrise.com
Clear Shea Oil
Clear, transparent oils are trending in the United States and Europe, and so AAK Personal Care has created a clear liquid shea oil that softens and moisturizes the skin. The physical and sensory attributes of Lipex SheaClear make it an ideal ingredient for skin, hair and face oils in which absolute clarity and low color is desired. The product has a high level (6-8%) of functional unsaponifiables that helps to revitalize the skin. It adds moisturizing and softening properties in all types of clear oil formulations, without any adverse crystallization effects or settling over time. It also improves shine and softness in hair. It can be used in highend cosmetic formulations as the main emollient or in combination with other oils and esters to customize the sensory properties. www.aak.com
Clear, Low-odor lactic acid High-quality grade L-lactic acid with a low base odor and a clear appearance is possible, thanks to Corbion Purac. Purac UltraPure is a pure, natural lactic acid that brings moisturizing and anti-aging properties to formulations in which a low base odor is required. For moisturization solutions, the lactic acid can be used as powerful humectant that can support the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF), providing hydration for up to four hours after application. The anti-aging effects of the lactic acid derive from its ability to stimulate exfoliation and cell renewal, and moisturize and increase dermal and epidermal thickness. The product is effective for all skin types in various formulations. The lactic acid has a low carbon footprint and is considered biobased. www.corbion.com
Sustainable Fruit Wax
KahlWax now offers Myrica pubescens fruit wax sustainably sourced from the Andes. The ingredient is appropriate for cosmetic applications for hair and skin. In hair care applications, the wax provides improved hold and reduced tackiness of water-in-oil emulsions and lip care products. The wax is now also available in an Ecocert quality. www.kahlwax.de
58 Main Ingredients GCI May 2015
Exploring the Future
of Product Development University of Pennsylvania Philadelphia, PA
Two Ways to Learn
June 22–23, 2015
• The Changing Face of Beauty: Customization and Hybrid Products
• Packaging as an Extension of Formulation • Building a Robust Product Proﬁle: What Marketing Wants and R&D Needs
• Demystifying (and Defending) Cosmetic Science to Consumers • Texture, Sensory Cues and More: Inventing a Product Experience
2) Hands-on Workshops
Two-Day Registration Includes
Full Day of Interactive Labs and Workshops
Two Continental Breakfasts
Networking Cocktail Reception
Full Conference with Hair or Sun/Skin Science Sessions
Two Networking Lunches
For more information and to register, visit Summit.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
SAVE THE DATE!
JUNE 13â€“15, 2016 Fontainebleau Resort Miami Beach, FL USA PRODUCED BY:
Registration Opens in October!
EVENTS may 2015
Products and SERVICES
12-13 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2015 Edison, NJ www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day
13-14 Luxe Pack New York 2015 New York www.luxepacknewyork.com
14-16 Sustainable Cosmetics Summit North America New York www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com
CEW 2015 Insiders’ Choice Beauty Awards Luncheon New York www.cew.org
june 2015 4-5 innoCos Summit Madrid, Spain www.innocossummit.com
9-11 HBA Global Expo New York www.hbaexpo.com
10-11 CosmeticBusiness Munich www.cosmetic-business.com/ tradefair/en
15-16 in-cosmetics Korea 2015 Seoul, South Korea www.in-cosmeticsasia.com/in-cosmetics-Korea
22-23 C&T Summit Philadelphia Summit.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
july 2015 12-14 Cosmoprof North America Las Vegas www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
september 2015 21-23 IFSCC Conference 2015 Zurich, Switzerland www.ifscc2015.com
Products and Services Showcase
Products and sErVIcEs
showcase CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING HEALTH • BEAUTY • OTC • HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS A TOTAL SERVICE – Formulation to Drop Shipping Long and Short Runs FDA-EPA Registered Visit our web site at www.ecometics.com 19 Concord St., So. Norwalk, CT 06854
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Products and Services Showcase
GCI May 2015
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Products and Services Showcase
Ad Index The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.
Bioscreen Testing Services
Biosil Technologies, Inc.
Campo Research Pte Ltd.
Coast Southwest, Inc.
Colt's Plastic Co., Inc,
Consumer Product Testing Co.
Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit
Draco Natural Products, Inc.
Extracts & Ingredients
Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.
Luxe Pack New York
Pilot Chemical Co.
Proprietary Nutritionals, Inc.
SCC California/Suppliers’ Day
SCC New York/Anniversary Ball
SoGeCos/Cosmoprof Las Vegas
Spectra Colors Corp.
Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.
The Beauty Company
U.S. Nonwovens Corp.
Verla Int'l Ltd.
World Perfumery Congress
3 55 Insert 23 Cover 3
for advertising info Kim Jednachowski
All US States Except NJ & PA email@example.com 1-630-344-6054
NJ & PA, Canada, Central & South America firstname.lastname@example.org 1-201-445-4702
Europe & Asia email@example.com 44-(0)-1430-441685
Fragrance firstname.lastname@example.org 1-630-730-9240
64 Ad Index GCI May 2015
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GCI May 2015. Global Cosmetics Industry Magazine.