Y Magazine #291, October 24 2013

Barney’s Here!

KIDS MEET THE PURPLE ONE TRAVEL BLOGGERS HIT MUSCAT / DARK DEVICES NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM / JABREEN CASTLE / BEAUTY MYTH / FABULOUS FORD

GUNS OF FANJA: Celebration 22 THE Brings Oman’s History to Life

Free!

EVERY THURSDAY NOW AVAILABLE IN BARKA ALL THE WAY TO SOHAR

TEACHER TROUBLE : Ministry Takes Action INTERVIEW: HH Sayyid Kamil Fahad Al Said

YOUR TOP GUIDE TO THE BEST OF OMAN, EVERY WEEK

PLUS!

NIGHT KNIGHTS

Fashion

Food

BASIC INSTINCTS

ITALIAN JOB

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NOVEMBER 24 / ISSUE 258

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THE MEN BUILDING OMAN IN DARKNESS AND DUST

Business

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HOT HEADS

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TREND BAROMETER

EDITOR’S

NOTE

GOING UP Personalised Pâtisseries

It’s Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Check out these Y branded delicacies making their debut at the Pink Afternoon Tea in the Grand Hyatt this month. Part of the proceeds will go to the Oman Cancer Association. Go to p15 for more information. It’s a sweet event not to be missed.

GOING DOWN Nail Art

Make a statement with your nails with the latest trend for monogram manicures. Hollywood starlet Emma Stone had her name emblazoned on Revlon varnish while Nail Inc’s latest cult nail kit includes 150 letters, including hashtags for Twitter and Instagram fiends. Get inspiration at #MonogramMani

THIS WEEK

Welcome to the new look Y Magazine your indispensable guide to everything modern Oman has to offer.

Fast forward

F

ast-paced developments are a Middle East speciality, and Oman is no exception. Roads, bridges, hotels and houses pop up from seemingly nowhere. But like Rome, Muscat wasn’t built in a day. Its development relies on the dedication of the unsung many. While we sleep, these dignified men toil in darkness and dust for less than RO100 a month. They don’t complain about their long hours, low pay or less than salubrious surroundings – instead, their story is one of pride and passion.

Read on to feel both moved and motivated by their journey.

Talking of inspiration, what did you do this Eid? Our photographer visited Jabreen Castle. Rising without rival from the surrounding plain, this old bastion of power is an impressive sight with its grand fortifications and latticed windows. Meanwhile, a pair of global bloggers recently descended on Oman to be blown away by all the sights, sounds and smells that the Sultanate has to offer.

Team Y have been enjoying Eid the traditional way, heading off to Dubai and celebrating our art director’s birthday.

Penny Fray MANAGING EDITOR

Ways to get your Y fix Online: Visit y-oman.com for even more inspiration.

Smart device: Catch up with Y on the go at y-oman.com/current-issue

editor@y-oman.com

EDITOR IN CHIEF Sayyida Iman bint Hamad bin Hamood Al Busaidi CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Eihab Abutaha MANAGING EDITOR Penny Fray SECTIONS EDITOR Kate Ginn

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PAGE EDITOR Joe Gill PHOTOGRAPHER Jerzy Wierzbicki ART DIRECTOR Matthew Herbst DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Feroz Khan

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Write to us at Y Magazine, SABCO Media, PO Box 3779, Ruwi 112, Sultanate of Oman.

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contents OCTOBER 24

Features

18 The Night Shift The Men Building Oman After Dark 22 The Guns of Fanja Keeping Tradition Alive

Your Oman

06 The Big Interview HH Sayyid Kamil Fahad Al Said 08 Your Oman Ali Al Balushi 1 0 News Teachers Face Prosecution

06

This Week

14 This Week Poetry Of Dance 16 Movie Listings The Fifth Estate

22 Business & Career 24 Keep Your Cool Taming Temper

Food & Drink

26 Trend Italian Job 28 Food Review Safari Grill 29 Advertising Feature Design Tribes

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Cars & Outdoors

14 Health & Beauty

30 Fashion Power Pieces 32 Shopping Fashion Secrets 34 Beauty Make-Up Miracle

37 Destination Jabreen Castle 40 Indoors The National History Museum 43 Postcard From Oman 44 Y-Fi In The Dark 46 Car of the Week Ford Edge Sport

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32 NEXT WEEK’S ISSUE...

SPOOKY SPECIAL BACK TO BAHLA BEATING THE E-BULLIES HORROR FILMS OPULENT FASHION DINNER PARTY DEBATE

YOUR

News

Gallery

INTERVIEW

OMAN

A CLASS ACT

H . H . SAYYID KAMI L FAHAD AL SA ID, ASSIS TANT S ECR ETA RY G EN ER AL FO R THE CAB INE T OF T HE DEP UT Y P R I M E MIN I ST ER FO R THE COUNC IL OF MIN I S T ER S AND M EM BER O F T H E BOARD OF DIR E C TORS OF T HE ROYAL O P E R A H O U S E M U SC AT

Words: Penny Fray

We know that the Royal Opera House Muscat (ROHM) has a significant role to play in terms of putting Oman on the tourist and cultural map, but what will its legacy be?

Its legacy will be as per His Majesty’s vision, one that sees the ROHM as the gateway for global dialogue and exchange through music and performing fashion and culinary quality through the adjacent Opera Galleria.

If time, money and consultation weren’t considerations, what or who would feature on the programme (performers can be dead or alive)? operas, I would opt for Arabic performers: the legendary Uum Kulthum and Abdel Halim Hafedh. For international performers: Luciano Pavarotti and Celine Dion. For musicals: The Phantom of the Opera and The Sound of Music.

The debate about informed performances is currently raging on social media. Does reading synopses and contextual information beforehand detract or enhance an experience at the opera?

Operas by their nature comprise of complex stories with many twists and turns. Reading about it beforehand makes it a more enjoyable experience as it becomes easier to follow. This also applies to ballet where there is no text, just motion and the choreographer’s inspiration, so knowing the story in advance greatly enhances the experience. For other shows it gives an indepth knowledge about the performance, the country of origin, artists and their culture.

What is the ROHM’s cultural philosophy?

The ROHM is dedicated to creating high-quality programmes from a wide range of musical and performing arts genres. It also provides space for a global dialogue where cultural and intellectual exchange can take place between Omanis and international participants. This will not only boost regular meeting places for the cultural world. Since music is a universal language, it will naturally build cross-cultural bridges between international professionals and their Omani counterparts.

With many of the other royal opera houses worldwide launching apps and live tweeting galas, what are the next stages for the ROHM in terms of meeting the needs of multimedia users?

Multimedia is at the core of our marketing strategy but also a source of feedback, which is always taken into consideration. With the ROHM’s improved website (in the pipeline), Facebook, Twitter, e-mail and text messages, it is proving to be extremely successful. Launching an app would What should be an individual’s ultimate ambition on a personal or professional level?

Personally, to educate oneself starting with school, university and then higher education, as knowledge is the key to success. Professionally, to serve our country regardless of the position held, as everyone has a role to play and we all contribute to the growth and development of our beloved country.

Name some leisure activities of interest?

Scuba diving, sky diving, travelling, playing the piano, watching movies, reading as well as keeping up to date with the latest political, economic, technological and entertainment news.

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THREE QUALITIES THAT ARE IMPORTANT IN A PERSON TO BE SUCCESSFUL: t Hard work and determination t A creative, open-minded approach to work t Implementing long-term visions and strategies

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10/13/13 12:32 PM

THE VOICE OF OMAN

Ali Al Belushi and the power of appreciation

correspondence HARDSHIP CAN BE LESSENED

A

mazingly, some cultures

celebrate all the blessings they have every year on a specific date. On this day they exchange gifts and give thanks for their surroundings – think Thanksgiving in the USA and Eid holidays here. The essence of these celebrations is all about appreciation.

Appreciation is a great habit that people need to practice when interacting with others. It enhances self-esteem, energises people to do more and builds on the human connection. It leaves the appreciated one feeling great and uplifted.

In addition, we need to be appreciative before we express it to others. Start appreciating the world around you by noting all the blessings you have. Appreciate all the things you do for yourself or others. Think of all your achievements and appreciate them, as it will motivate you to do more at your best level. Also tell people genuinely how much you appreciate them and what they do.

Be proud of your environment and thank God for all your blessings.

Did you know that appreciation has a magnetic power over people?

Leaders who appreciate are really popular with their followers because people like to follow others who make them feel good about themselves.

History has witnessed how some great leaders who are loved by their followers truly appreciate them. Prophet Mohammed is a great example as he used to appreciate all his followers and encourage them to always appreciate others.

Appreciation needs to be genuinely practiced in our culture as it keeps us strongly connected and spreads the happiness around us.

NEXT WEEK: JANE JAFFER 08

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I read your story on teachers staying far away from their families (Y 289) with interest.

Unfortunately, the Ministry of Education cannot only post teachers to jobs in their local area, as they will be saturated in some places and short in others.

It has to be kept in mind that the ratio between teachers and schools is based on the population of each area.

Hence the Ministry has to send some teachers far away.

The only thing that the Ministry can do

is to make it a transferable job, as is done in many countries. Under this system, when you work for the government, you will be parts of the country.

Hardship allowances can be added for those staying in mountainous or desert areas.

This should be applicable in all ministries not just education.

Best wishes, Vijayalakshmi R Shetty Muscat

TRAVEL LOSES ITS APPEAL

Dear Editor, As the saying goes, travel broadens the mind (Travel the World in One Eid, Y290). I used to enjoy taking off to a new country or continent as I eagerly and the tastes and smells that would greet me.

But then something about all the new security measures that passengers must endure for international travel made such adventures feel like an ordeal.

These days I feel staying closer to home – or just driving to your destination in your own car

WRITE TO US AND WIN A VOUCHER

– is just as exciting and less hassle.

When you are in a beautiful country like Oman, with so much to discover it could take almost a lifetime to see it all, what is the off to a tourist destination?

Y got it right saying that the world is here in Oman if you look for it. Take me to a wadi, the mountains or the beach and I am happy.

Yours truly, Farah Samaan Muscat

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YOUR FEEDBACK IS IMPORTANT TO US

LETTERS

DEBATE OF THE WEEK WE ASKED: ‘What

did you do over Eid?’ ATEEF DAFEDAR

to my country to celebrate Eid – anyhow Muscat is my second home so I stayed here.

SHYAM KARANI

Relaxed, watched TV until I dozed off. Baked a couple of cakes for Eid and pleasantly surprised the neighbours. Vacuumed the upholstery on the living room furniture. I cleaned up my car, which I had been putting off for some time. Went for seaside walks on a couple of evenings with a friend. Read a bit and took it easy.

HEETRAJ CHAVDA

Just stayed at home and played on always available to me.

E-MAILS

I made some meals and tried out some new recipes and revisited forgotten ones. I stayed out of the heat and avoided adding to the

FA C E B O O K

TWITTER

there were better road signs to diminish the necessity to stop and ask for directions during the journey.

SYED BOKHARI

SADIA MUNEEB

I spent my time in my sweet home with family members, talking, gossiping and spending our evenings on the beach. I also invited some of our friends to go out with us. But best of all, I made tasty food to enjoy with family.

PRABHAT CHANDRASHIL

Eid holidays are a welcome break from the tiring daily grind. It has become even more exhausting to drive to and from work due to everywhere.

As usual during public holidays, all airlines colluded to raise airfares so it became unaffordable to Mumbai to visit family.

So I stayed at home, relaxing and unwinding, getting up leisurely without hurry and taking my own sweet time to get ready.

RAHID STYLESH DESIGNERS

Cold Jebel nights outs, football tournament at Qurum grounds, a family picnic at the beach, a long drive to Dubai and much more.

Nothing new or great going on as usual so I was looking forward eagerly for the fresh copy of my ever-favourite Y Magazine.

Editor’s reply: Glad to be back after Eid.

SK RUPCHAND

A good friend was kind enough to invite me for a very enjoyable and extremely comfortable drive in his ultra-luxurious car to the Jebel Shams mountain.

The ascent upwards on the winding climb was the most exciting part of the long drive. Sadly, the last few kilometres of the road was not accessible to our saloon car and could only be traversed by a 4WD. But the journey itself was so enjoyable and memorable and the entire day was well-spent.

We enjoyed a home-cooked picnic lunch in a shady spot and had tea at a cafĂŠ on the ride back. I wish

Next week’s debate:

Following controversy over the Nobel prize committee’s recent decision, who would you nominate for the Nobel Peace Prize?

Tell us your views on Facebook.

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YOUR

OMAN MINISTRY TO TAKE ACTION AGAINST STRIKING TEACHERS

Authorities say those who continue to strike will be prosecuted Words: Joe Gill

Oman’s Ministry of Education is initiating legal action against striking teachers three weeks after public school teachers began a nationwide strike.

The majority of Oman’s 1000 public schools were hit by the action, which started on October 1, with thousands of students missing lessons as teachers stopped work in pursuit of various demands. Teachers were reporting to school but were not teaching the students.

Most schools resumed normal classes when they returned from the Eid holidays on Sunday. most staff members were back at work giving classes. However, a few were still on strike. sent to the principals of schools across the country warning that action would be taken against teachers who had not returned to work, according Council’s education and research committee. school had called a meeting of teachers to inform them of the letter and the threat of legal action against strikers.

Teachers who continue to strike could face dismissal or even jail, al Lawati added. “The intention of the letters was to put pressure on teachers to end the strike, but from reports we have received, in some schools it had the opposite effect. “Some of the teachers who had gone back to work on Sunday came out on strike again in protest against the letter. “There are 60,000 teachers out of 300,000 families. Most families have teachers, to take action against them,� added Al Lawati.

Teachers have been calling for improved pay according to seniority, a revised curriculum, the right to form a union, a reduction in classroom teaching time and better provision for teachers posted far from home. Another demand is to separate mixed classes from Grade 1 to Grade 4.

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concrete changes have been announced to resolve the dispute. “The government does not want to send the message that it will give in to pressure from strikes,� said Al Lawati “A few of the demands of teachers are genuine and the Ministry is making some fair proposals to answer them,� added Al Lawati. “The main political issue is to end the mixing of classes up to grade four. In my view, if this is a demand of the majority of the Omani people and also the teachers, then the Ministry has to respect it.�

A Ministry source told the Oman News Agency against teachers who had prevented pupils attending school, called on other teachers to do the same or asked school drivers not to transport pupils to school.

The source added that under Article 106 of the Civil Service Act, government employees who neglect duties and responsibilities of work could be punished according to the penalties prescribed in Article 116 of the Act. Under Article 103 of the Civil Service Act, teaching is a national service and government employees are obliged to perform their duties sincerely in the public interest, it said.

The Ministry has formed team to visit a number of schools in different wilayats, particularly those that experienced most disruption, where they will meet teaching and administrative staff.

YTabloid 24x34 E.indd 1

10/21/13 6:16 PM

Gallery

YOUR

Interview

NEWS

Festival of Fun

OMAN

FIRST DEDICATED CHILDREN’S EVENT A SUCCESS

Judging by the expression on the faces of some of these children, it’s clear to see that they’re enjoying the debut of a carnival especially for them.

Thousands of families attended the Hala B’Eid – The Children’s Festival, a unique event, which set out to educate the little ones as well as entertain them.

As well as thrilling rides, there were recycling and agricultural workshops, in which children were able to interact with animals, as well as stage acts, including a kid’s talent show.

If you and your family have missed the event, don’t worry you still have time to join in the fun. The festival at the Oman Automobile Association in Seeb, Muscat, ends on Friday (25).

Child singing sensation, Hala Turk, 11, from Bahrain, who took part in Arabs Got Talent, will perform today (Thurs) and tomorrow.

L’ESPACE Furniture

REINVENTING THE OLD IN TODAY’S INTERIOR’S

MU

SC

AT

L’Espace furniture’s goal is to show, that you can easily blend ethnic furniture to modern, contemporary as well as ethnic settings. Discover our exclusive range of authentic and functional furniture that will bring personality and history into any room. Our collection brings to you: unique accent pieces and accessories from villages across the Indian subcontinent as well as handcrafted in teak for the British Raj. LULU

Contact: 24 50 48 65 or 96 28 24 72

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MUSCAT GRAND MALL

GOUBRAH ROUNDABOUT

SEEB

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AT CL LAS IN IC

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Address : Located in Boshar , pass the Atlas clinic on your right ministry parking(2nd flagged building) to the end. L’Espace Furniture is the 2nd building (grey and white) Corner of way 3701 et 3703, building #1543.

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KE

AD RO

RV SE

TH

TA

B QA

MUSCAT OASIS RESIDENCES

Even the camels in Wadi Darbat had a fun time with their family during Eid

THE WHAT’S ON GUIDE

Oct

27 -28

Higher Learning

With more Omanis than ever studying abroad, Ghedex – The Global Higher Education Exhibition – is the must-attend event to meet representatives from top international universities. It takes place in Hall 2 of the International Exhibition Centre under the patronage of the Ministry of Higher Education and is supported by the British Council, Education USA and Amideast. Doors open 9am-1pm and 4.30pm-9pm.

Oct 29

Dish Dash Attention all Muscat foodies – Marina Bandar al Rowdha is the venue for this month’s Gourmet Night, with a menu including cold salmon with hollandaise, red pepper and pumpkin soup, squash and spinach ravioli and Parkin with Crème Anglaise and physalis. The night, hosted by the National Hospitality Institute, Gulf Chef School and Class Room Restaurant, costs RO26 per person. Call 24740038 to book.

DANCE POETRY St Petersburg’s famous Mariinsky Theatre dazzled Muscat last season with its stunning production of

THIS

WEEK

WHAT TO DO. WHAT TO SEE. WHAT TO HEAR.

O C T O B E R

Now the Mariinsky’s ballet company, formerly known as Kirov Ballet, is here to perform three works of choreography at the Royal Opera House

Nov 02-23

Art of Ages Omani artist Saleh Al Shukairi is leading an Arabic calligraphy workshop on four consecutive Saturdays starting on November 2 from 10am-1pm at MuscArt in Al Ghubra. You must be 15 or over to participate. RO130 for the four classes. Call 24493192 to book a place.

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OCT NOV

31 - 02

Movies Oct 25

Blink and You’ll Miss It

Gallery

Bella Italia

Golf Stars

OCT 24-28

Whether you love Italian design or want to link up with suppliers from the Italian market, the Italian Solo Exhibition 2013 is the event to attend this week.

The InterContinental Muscat will see displays of outdoor and interior design, engineering, landscaping, food products, fashion and accessories. Open for four evenings from 3pm to 9.30pm.

RSVP 99471704 / 98824169

October

Pechakucha Muscat returns with a line-up of Omani artists and designers showcasing their work in the global networking movement’s simple presentation format: 20 slides each up for 20 seconds. The free event takes place at the main entrance to Muscat Grand Mall on Friday evening. It starts at 8.20pm sharp. Call 95035868 for details.

to Almouj Golf, The Wave, this week for The National Bank of Oman Golf Classic 2013, which starts today.

28 -31

alongside invited amateurs. The tournament starts bright and early with breakfast at 6am, a lunch buffet and afternoon tea. For more information call 22005990.

In The Pink

To mark National Breast Cancer Month, the Grand Hyatt in association with Y Magazine is hosting a very special pink afternoon tea from 3pm to 8pm. Indulge in a glass of pink bubbly and an array of pretty pink patisseries for RO8.8 per person – with a percentage going to the Oman Cancer Association. Hold a girly event or just go solo to show your support. For more information, call 24641234

Experience

malaysia muscat in

OCT

30

From 15th to 29th October, Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa is welcoming two expert chefs from Shangri-La Hotel, Kuala Lumpur Chef Azman Bin Mat Hasan and Chef Anis Rusydan Bin Amran - to create the very best of Malaysian cuisine in a variety of native dishes.

Authentic specialties include Otak-otak Nasi Lemak, a widely popular main, and a light range of coconut-based desserts to end the perfect Malaysian feast.

For more information or for reservations, please contact fbreservation.slmu@shangri-la.com or call 2477 6565.

Only at Shangri-La

SHANGRI-LA’S BARR AL JISSAH RESORT & SPA P.O. Box 644, Muscat 100, Sultanate of Oman Tel: (968) 2477 6666 Fax: (968) 2477 6677 Email: slmu@shangri-la.com Website: www.shangri-la.com/muscat

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THIS WEEK

MOVIES MOVIES THIS WEEK’S MOVIES

The Fifth Estate Is he a hero of the Internet age or an enemy of national security?

BrĂźhl comes to Assange as a starry eyed fan but soon realises that he is

political thriller don’t seem to be able to make up their minds about the WikiLeaks founder Julian Assange, whose website released millions of

work with.

As the leaks raise alarm bells in western capitals, characters are constantly seen moving, running down corridors or storming in and out of rooms with furrowed brows.

However, one senses that all this action is hiding a lack of depth in the narrative, an inability to focus

a media and political storm.

Benedict Cumberbatch gets the ticks and mannerisms of the whitehaired anarchic crusader – who is still holed up in Ecuador’s London embassy – just right, although the his voice.

After The Social Network, The Fifth Estate could be seen as a companion piece about the nature of power and privacy in the digital age, although in this case, Assange has condemned the Rather like Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg, Assange famously pays little attention to social niceties. In one scene, he walks into the apartment of his assistant Daniel Domscheit-Berg (played by Daniel BrĂźhl) and starts working on his laptop, oblivious to the fact his partner has just been making love to his girlfriend.

The hyperactive and visually kaleidoscopic style overcomes the problem of a drama that mostly happens in cyberspace.

PREVIEW

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centre of the story and reveal his true motivation and beliefs.

There are hints about Assange’s estranged son, his unusual upbringing – his mother was apparently a member of a sinister cult in Australia – and the unresolved sexual assault case against him, but these are not explored satisfactorily.

Towards the end, Cumberbatch’s Assange morphs into a kind of Andy Warhol lookalike villain ranting at the West – but there is no dramatic resolution.

Perhaps this is inevitable as the consequences of WikiLeaks’ revelations and the actions of whistleblowers like Edward Snowden are still being played out. The battle for control of information has more sequels to come.

Review by Joe Gill

DON JON Joseph Gordon-Levitt writes, stars and directs this tale of a porn-obsessed New Jersey bartender who spends his time down the gym, at church, riding his car and hitting on girls at the club. It’s there he sees Scarlett Johansson looking fantastic in a red dress. They hit it off, until he realises she’s an old fashioned girl who loves sloppy romantic movies – and she discovers his addiction. Smart and thought provoking, it’s like a comic update of Saturday Night Fever without the dancing.

For more information and times, go to: City Cinema: citycinemaoman.net Al Bahja Cinema: albahjacinema.net Star Cinema: Tel +968 24791641

1911 Revolution A Chinese historical epic marking Jackie Chan’s 100th appearance in a movie. It’s is a big budget retelling of the downfall of China’s last imperial dynasty with Winston Chao as revolutionary leader Sun Yat-sen and Chan as the military genius leading the endless battles and propaganda speeches, he still manages to become romantically involved with feisty Xu Zonghan. Joan Chen has an impressive wardrobe as the Empress Dowager.

Gallowwalkers Wesley Snipes takes his zombie-slaying Blade persona into the Wild West where, thanks to a curse, the men he kills just won’t lie down. Unfortunately, fans

of this nonsense.

Upside Down Jim Sturgess and Kirsten Dunst live in an alternative universe where their two worlds are caught in something called dual gravity.

He lives ‘Down Below’ in a slum-like planet while ‘Up Above’ is a world of privilege and prosperity. Rather than science fantasy that cannot match the look with characters, a believable romance or story.

The mind-boggling nature of this world is made very hard to swallow by having the wet-eared Sturgess explain it to us in a nonsensical prologue. Then we have the total lack of chemistry between the star-crossed lovers, the implausible plot line that Dunst suffers an accident which wipes her memory of meeting Sturgess, forcing him to go to extreme lengths to reunite them. Probably the best bet is to hum to yourself when the actors speak and just enjoy the incredible visual feast on screen.

Maximum Conviction WWF is big in these parts, which probably explains why this straight-to-DVD action movie starring ‘Stone Cold’ Steve Austin and Steven Seagal made it to the big screen in Oman. The pair must shut down a high security prison but when two mysterious themselves battling elite mercenaries who want the girls dead. Seagal mumbles and punches his way through the masked bad guys while Austin provides the gags.

Y’s Film Choice KILLER JOE

A low life (Emile Hirsch) plots the murder of his mother, and hires a sadistic police detective to do the job. A scene-stealing Matthew McConaughey plays the hired killer with a mix of menace and charm. We know things are going to end badly from the moment he falls for Hirsch’s younger sister (Juno Temple). Veteran director William Friedkin (The Exorcist and The

French Connection) brings his trademark energy to this gothic tale of stupidity and greed among poor white Texans. It’s a ferociously dark and funny tale that maintains the tension to the last second.

GALLERY Images: Jerzy Wierzbicki

BARNEY HITS THE TOWN

LOVABLE T-REX WOWS THE CROWDS BEFORE THE BIG SHOW

LIVE? BARNEY for the Barney E E S O T WANT e to buy tickets . Join yourg, tim s e w v o a h h s l ! il e t g You s ive On Sta utes of son Let’s Go! L inosaur for 60 min Oman. Catch in d favourite n for the first time Oct 25 & 26 at u n f o d dance an le and green T-Rex shows a day, 4pm the purp Ampitheatre. Two arneyoman.com .b the QurumBuy tickets at wwwsee p36). ( . s and 7pm or at ticket outlet ets on the door! tick n also buy a c u o Y . .S P 1%6 +557'

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Night Shift

ON THE 018

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THEY ARE THE INVISIBLE WORK FORCE TOILING IN THE DARK TO BUILD OMAN WHILE THE REST OF THE COUNTRY IS ASLEEP. KATE GINN MEETS THEM Photos: Jerzy Wierzbicki

Translator: Mohammed Salim

A

powder, the clanging of a dozen hammers break the silence.

Beams of powerful light arc into the darkness, illuminating the faces of men who suddenly step out of the shadows.

It feels eerie, surreal even.

This is the world inhabited by the night workers of Muscat. While the city is in bed, these men toil away under the cover of night, largely unnoticed, creating the future Oman. building sites, going about their chores like worker ants in their distinctive boiler suits, as you speed past in your car.

For up to 12 hours a day, six days a week, these men labour away for as little as RO100 a month.

It’s backbreaking and unrelenting work, a physical burden many The rewards are few and the recognition for their efforts is minimal at best.

Yet without them, the shiny new Oman that is emerging from the desert sands such as the state-of-the-art airport, roads, buildings and homes, would not be happening. Nor would the rise of Dubai or Doha, or indeed any of the rapidly expanding cities and countries in the Middle East.

Yet most of us probably rarely even give them a second thought. Y It’s 11pm on a Thursday on a stretch of 18th November Street near at this time of night, the evening heavy with humidity.

Saymy is 22-years-old and from Bangladesh. He studied business at college and, in a different life, would perhaps be embarking on a career in the corporate world.

Instead, he is on a chaotic, dirty building site, a long way from home, working the ‘graveyard shift’, as it’s known, from 5pm-5am. He tells us that during his 12-hour shift, he only has two breaks – 20 minutes at 10pm for food and a further 10 minutes drink stop around 3am.

It’s an arduous work schedule by any standards. stone tiles to the underpass. He works quickly, his small hands deftly wielding the hammer as it cracks into a tile, sending a cloud of dust spraying up into the air. You can feel the tiny particles entering your mouth and making their slow way to your lungs. Saymy isn’t wearing a protective facemask, although some of the workers are or have scarves

I had to leave my own country to find work, It’s a good job but I miss my family

pulled over their mouths – but not all.

His face is streaked with grime and sweat, dripping off his hair and into his eyes. His beige boiler suit is covered in dust and he looks exhausted, but he breaks into a heartbreakingly huge smile when approached. good job but I miss my family.�

Saymy has been in Oman for two years, one of an estimated 5,000 to 10,000 Bangladeshi workers who arrive in the Sultanate every month, seeking the golden ticket of regular rials in the hand, no matter how laborious or gruelling the work.

Most pay a ‘recruitment agent’ in their native country for sourcing the job – in Saymy’s case it was RO250, but it can be more or less, depending on the nature of the work.

He has one day off a week – always a Friday – although he sometimes does overtime and goes seven days without a break. For this he earns RO130-140 a month. Out of this, RO20 is spent on accommodation, a room shared with six other men. Privacy comes at a premium that most of these men cannot afford.

A further RO30 is set aside for food and living expenses, with the rest sent back to his parents, brothers and sisters, who rely on It might sound like a grim existence to some but this gentle, polite young man shrugs stoically, uncomplaining and with no trace of resentment. He is simply happy to be in Oman, he smiles.

The lights of the new airport under construction shimmer in the distance, promising a bright new beginning.

This hint of a better life is what brought Alftaft here six months ago from his rural village in Pakistan, which had little to offer a 26-year-old in search of work and adventure.

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When I speak to my wife on the telephone, she cries sometimes because she wants me to come home but I have to stay

“I only came here for the money,� he says. “It’s not much but it’s more than I could get at home.�

The RO100 a month he earns labouring six days a week is three times what he would be paid for a similar job in Pakistan.

Accommodation – one of six beds in a shared Portacabin – is free and RO80 is sent back to his family. “Perhaps you might say that it is not much of a life but I am pleased to be here and to be and I can do it. We did not know that we would be working nights when we came. There are day shifts too. “On my day off, I sleep or go out with friends for a walk or something.�

This indomitable spirit is evident in all the men we speak to. It’s as if they’re wearing a tough, protective outer shell like their hard hats, shielding them from the hardships and surroundings.

Moving to a strange land, far from everything familiar, whether for necessity like Saymy or experience like Alftaft, is a wrench. For those who are also forced to leave families behind, wives and children, it must be an incredibly emotionally fraught decision.

Kishor had to kiss goodbye to his three-yearold son and wife when he came to Oman from Bangalore to work as an electrician. It will be a year before he sees them again, he says. “I try not to think about them too much. When I do I feel so sad,� he says. “When I speak to my wife on the telephone, she cries sometimes because she wants me to 020

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RISE OF THE WORKERS Oman is becoming an increasingly attractive destination for expatriates.

Around 1,500,000 workers from overseas now call Oman issued last month by The National Centre for Statistics and Information (NCSI).

About 602,000 of these are Indian, followed by 478,000 Bangladeshis and 222,400 from Pakistan.

A large majority of these are in low-income jobs, such as labouring for men and domestic work for women.

There has been a huge rise in the number of Bangladeshi workers seeking work in the Sultanate, with more than 21,000 arriving in the country between March and June this year alone. Their average salaries are said to range from RO60 to RO200 a month.

Currently, there are around 1.3 million Bangladeshi workers in the Gulf.

come home but I have to stay. “I do feel lonely sometimes, I don’t have any close friends here. “I don’t have a choice. We need the money. I send almost everything I earn (around RO120-amonth plus overtime) to my wife.�

He’s clearly torn between the need to be a good husband and father, providing for his family, and being physically present with them.

The question is whether it is worth such a “Are we paid enough for what we do? No,� says Kishor, shaking his head. “But the money is good compared to what I would get in Bangalore. I could not earn the same in my own country.�

On arrival, he had to work to pay off the RO250 rial fee to the recruitment agent. “I hope to have a vacation to see my son. But who knows? Even if I do go, I will have to come back,� he says. Softly spoken, it’s hard to hear him speaking above the relentless thud of the hammers. Perhaps you get used to the noise after a while, becoming numb to the environment around you.

Another worker, Rahim, from Pakistan, left four children behind, the youngest two years old. “I’ve not seen them for a year,� he says. “I didn’t want to leave them but what can I do? I need to work.�

Saymy, who has been standing in his dusty overalls listening to the conversations, a welcome diversion from the daily grind, has to get back on the job.

Around us, a hive of activity continues unabated.

Y Magazine is looking for a first class sub-editor/writer with an eye for detail and a flare for the English language, to keep us at the top as the most talked about weekly magazine in Oman.

Dedicated and hard working, the successful applicant will be prepared to work long and flexible hours, taking responsibility for ensuring that our copy is crisp, bright, acurate, and engaging to read.

I don’t have a choice.

We need the money.

I send almost everything I earn (around RO120a-month plus overtime) to my wife I ask Rahim if he is happy. A smile lights up his face. “I’m poor but happy,� he laughs.

With that, he pulls his scarf up over his mouth and goes back to work.

It’s been an unexpectedly humbling almost noble, men.

None of them wanted to leave their homes and families but they are grateful for the opportunities Oman has offered and don’t want pity or handouts. When I try to give them a few rials to buy a hot meal later, they are too proud to accept, and refuse with a smile.

As I leave, they stand cheerfully waving goodbye.

In a few hours when dawn breaks and the rest of the world awakes, it will be time for these men of the night to go home and sleep.

You will have at least three years experience working as a sub editor in magazines or newspapers with InDesign experience.

Your primary role will be checking, rewriting and editing editorial copy to an exacting standard, but you will also be expected to write news and lifestyle articles for the magazine as part of a small, tightly knit and creative editorial team.

If you are up to the challenge, and the fun, of working for the most sparkling English language lifestyle magazine in the Middle East, send in your CV, cover letter and edited version of this advert (we’ve inserted errors for you to spot) too editor@y-oman.com

by November 1, 2013.

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The GuNS of faNja Photos: Joe Gill

Each Eid al Adha, the hills of Fanja echo with the sound of gunfire for the Al Azwah celebration.

Joe Gill was invited along

Preparing the cannon

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and singing traditional warrior songs as they marched through the narrow streets of Fanja towards the old town walls.

the days of old, when a man was as good as his gun.

I followed some children and clambered up a on the inside of the town gate. Here men with swords gathered as the militia banged on the closed gates demanding entry. Someone shouted: “Open the gates.�

Inside the gatekeeper asked: “Who are you?� “We are the Wolves of Al Khatum. Open up!�

Eventually the gatekeeper conceded and they with swords ushered them through the narrow passageway into crumbling, mud-brick streets.

With my camera, I felt like I was living the dream of an intrepid correspondent of an earlier age. There were just a few foreigners in the town, surrounded by men carrying swords and guns, wearing dishdashas amid ancient ruins.

Only the odd mobile phone gave away that we were in the 21st century.

This was the Al Azwah celebration, held on Eid al Adha every year when the guns of Oman’s past crack and echo through the mountains.

I ran up a hill to keep up with the marching men and found myself breathless.

I felt faint and had to sit down. Around me children gathered as I slumped on the ground.

A young boy in traditional dress pointed a toy gun at me. I rummaged in my bag and prayed I had.

As the sun lowered in the sky, casting shadows

Men on the march to the Al Azwah

Children enjoy the Al Azwah

from the walls of the fort. “I always enjoyed the Al Azwah because we had fun there – we bought toys and soft drinks,� says Hamid, recalling his childhood.

When he was 12, his father was already familiar with how to use it from holding his father’s weapon. market in Nizwa, and according to Hamid, no license is required for them.

The celebration is a family affair, with young women and children enjoying the toy market – but at its heart it is a spectacle about men and battle. “When we were growing up we carried guns, and sung traditional songs about the wars and men’s life,� says Hamid. “We are proud of Fanja – proud of our football team, which is the best in the country.�

But Al Azwah is not about football, but an older, more lethal kind of rivalry. “Fanja has a strong military tradition,� says Hamid, “Many soldiers come from here. In the old days, they would sometimes the Imamate, and sometimes with the Imamate against the Sultan. Whose side you were on depended on your family name. “Peace came in 1970 when Sultan Qaboos came to power but before then there was always their fathers were soldiers – all our forefathers fought against many enemies.�

Hamid, now in his twenties, is part of the Dhiab al Khatum, one of several local militia who gather for Al Azwah.

They are maintaining a tradition that goes back centuries, and re-enacted each year during Eid al Adha.

From the cannon placements at the edge of the old fort, we looked down on the date palm orchards framed by the orangetinted mountains.

Meanwhile, the militia had passed through the second gate and were gathering in the old square to sing and dance.

As the sun lowered, people enjoyed the spectacle of two venerable Omani swordsmen, perhaps among the last who knew this ancient art, sparring with one another between jumps and cries.

Gatekeepers in the old town

position behind a wall and began mountainside.

The report of the guns echoed through the town and the surrounding hills, as cartridges piled up and dust burst from the rocky escarpments above. “We have a story about the mountains,� says Hamid. “Centuries ago it was captured by the Persians. The people living there at that time threw them out – but after they were removed, mountain and it changed shape. “Our grandfathers say there is Persian treasure in the mountain and ghosts who watch over it, protecting it. “We must keep this tradition alive,� explains Hamid, as we walk down from the old town at dusk into the date palm groves that line the hillside. “Even though we get more relaxed over time, with more money and peace, we love the Al Azwah from our hearts. “We have to teach it to our children as I will teach it to my son. I hope it will last forever.�

True Love Strikes Deep On the way down the hill, an old militia member who played the drum told us a story of a warrior who loved a woman who lived inside the town.

He met her in secret at the gate one night. Out of habit he had stabbed his sword into the ground, without realising he had pierced his lover’s leg.

She said nothing until dawn when they parted and he discovered what he had done. “Why didn’t you “Because I didn’t want our night together to end,� she answered.

Singing traditional songs in Fanja

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on the old ruins, the excitement was palpable.

As guests of Hamid al Shamsi, a resident and Dhiab al Khatum (Wolves of Khatum) militia member, we were lucky enough to be invited to watch this timeless occasion when the history of Fanja is brought to life.

The three-day event culminates

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BUSINESS & CAREER

Trend

Networking

Minute Mentoring

When you feel the anger rising, take a deep breath before saying or doing anything. That time out can make all the difference.

TOP TIPS FOR TAMING TEMPER TANTRUMS Think before you speak: In the heat of the moment, it’s easy to say something you’ll later regret. Take a few moments to collect your thoughts before saying anything.

Express anger when calm: When you’re thinking clearly, now is the time to express your frustration. Do so in an assertive but nonconfrontational way.

Stick with ‘I’ statements: Avoid criticising or placing blame – which might add to the tension.

For example, say, ‘I’m upset that you didn’t ask for my input with that report.’ Don’t hold grudges: Forgiveness is a powerful tool. Resentment can lead to bitterness and emotionally draining negativity. Learn to let go.

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KEEP Your Cool IS YOUR TEMPER HIJACKING YOUR JOB? IT’S TIME TO TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR ANGER, SAYS KATE GINN

S

WHAT THE EXPERT SAYS: TAKE YOURSELF TO A QUIET PLACE AND BREATHE DEEPLY “As you feel yourself getting angry or anxious, place your hand on our stomach and chest and breathe deeply. You should start to feel yourself calming down. Do this the minute you start feeling angry or as it escalates. Take yourself off to a quiet space, if possible, and ask yourself out loud whether you want to feel this way. You may need to do it up to four times at the start.�

Jenni Eden, Muscat-based life coach.

omething, or most probably someone, has provoked your anger and it’s rising by the minute. You can feel your face getting redder, your heart beating faster and your body shaking. Pretty soon,

Sound familiar? It’s a scenario most of us have experienced, some on a weekly or even daily basis.

Letting off a little steam is, of course, healthy but when it takes over and turns destructive, it can lead to problems in your life and at work.

I should know. I’m a self-confessed hothead, who erupts in a volcaniclike temper before calming down as quickly as I blew up. While I’m relieved at having vented my frustrations, the person who my wrath is aimed at, has the terror-struck look of someone who has just encountered a tornado.

Still, I’m not alone. According to a recent study, more than half of those surveyed experience regular ‘desk rage’.

And according to Jerry Deffenbacher, PhD, a psychologist who specialises in anger management, some people really are more ‘quick to temper’ than others; they get angry more easily and more intensely than the average person.

But is it a good idea to get openly angry at work? Career coaches say a not and, worse, it can be damaging to your career and work relationships. “Being emotional, appearing visibly agitated, red-faced or raising your voice, is generally considered unprofessional,� says Deborah Grayson Riegel, a career consultant. “So you want to be fully calm before you speak to a manager or colleagues.�

Most of us can get annoyed at work at times, whether it’s at a colleague who does little work but takes all the credit or a manager who refuses think that your colleagues – and more importantly, boss – don’t even notice your moods. But you’re wrong. Chances are they do, and if you soon be unemployed.

Jenni Eden, a Muscat-based life coach, says fury is often ignited by a similar pattern of behaviour. “Flare-ups occur when a button deep down is pressed, not always one that we’re aware of. It can be a past trauma or something more recent. “However, shouting and screaming is not going to help the situation.

Most people do not respond well to incoherent and volatile outbursts. “You are the one in the driving seat, so you have to take control of how you feel, take ownership and responsibility.�

No one advocates suppressing unhappiness – unresolved anger is linked to high blood pressure, anxiety and depression – it’s all about learning how to express your feelings in healthier ways.

Eden uses the Sedona Method, a technique for releasing unwanted feelings easily and painlessly on the spot, when the red mists descends.

Simple but powerful, the method consists of a series of questions you ask yourself while breathing deeply: ‘Do you want to feel this way?’ ‘Could you let it go?’ ‘Would you let it go?’ and ‘When?’ “I have used it loads of times and it really works,� says Eden. “It takes the heat out of the situation, so you can think more rationally. “It doesn’t take away the reason to be cross with someone but it does take away the emotional element so that you can address the issue with clarity and a sense of where the other person is coming from.

WHAT THE EXPERT SAYS: IT’S NOT A SIGN OF WEAKNESS TO SAY NO TO MORE STRESS “It can be hard at work when people are under pressure with deadlines. Often we become angry because we have taken on too much work – we haven’t learnt to say no. We get angry with ourselves for not being able to deliver and this is turned onto others. There is nothing wrong or weak about saying you cannot deal with any more work. I work with lots of people who say they left a job because their boss never thanked them or appreciated them. It’s far better to confront the issue and talk it through than walk out. Meditation is my top tip for distress. Rosie Malcolm-MacEwan, therapist at Al Harub Medical Centre, Muscat

BUSINESS BUY HOT TO TOTE

The big black bag takes a tough-luxe stance this autumn with the addition of sharp, sculptural hardware.

Right now, we consider Alexander McQueen’s plaqueadorned Heroine carryall to be one of the season’s boldest business highlights.

But it’s not cheap. In fact it costs more than RO1000 at Net-A-Porter.com

“The more you use this process, the more your brain is connecting to these cues.�

If you still don’t feel able to deal with problems face-to-face without losing your head, write down your concerns and email to colleagues or your boss instead. your working way, it might be time to get some anger management. newTCS_88.htm 1%6 +557'

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FOOD AND DRINK

A LESSON IN MAKING RISOTTO Don’t be intimidated by this Italian rice dish – it’s as easy as making pasta, according to Tomato’s chef Mario Storti. It’s also versatile, lending itself to all vegetables and chicken to cheese.

Read on to discover his secrets on how to make the perfect, mouth-watering risotto.

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READY, STEADY, COOK

THE FOODIE

FILES

To make a proper Italian meal, you’ll need fresh ingredients and a great teacher. So set the table and fire up the stove for chef Mario Storti’s risotto, says Penny Fray

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s a cook, everyone has a chink in his or her culinary armour. In my case, it’s rice. I hate the stuff. Beneath that inoffensively bland exterior lies strife. It’s always boiling over or boiling dry – or in the case of risotto, not boiling at all.

Smug celebrity chefs always tell you it’s an easy and delicious dish to make at home – but the truth is that it’s stupidly simple to get wrong – especially in the hands of someone who once got turfed out of a home economics class for being basically rubbish. (That’s me by the way.)

I’ve tried several risotto recipes, including those of Jamie Oliver and Nigella Lawson with just a pan of mush too show for it. Argh! What am I doing wrong? Why can’t I create something that’s smooth, creamy and oozy, not thick and stodgy? I’m a disgrace to my part-Italian heritage.

To this end, I sign up for a risotto-making master class with Mario Storti, head chef of the InterContinental’s Tomato restaurant. The event was meant to endorse their new risotto promotion – but alas, a work issue cropped up (it always does). So, I re-shackled my ankle to the desk and sent for his top tips (one of the few perks of being an editor). being using the right rice, namely carnaroli or a variety called vialone nano a risotto with rice pudding, I feel I’ve already learnt a lot. Then there’s the toasting of the onions and rice, neither of which should be allowed to brown. Instead, the grains must be heated through before you add the house special, sizzling as it hits the pan. “Then, turn down the heat to a simmer so the rice doesn’t cook too quickly on the outside,� advises Mario. “Keep adding ladles of stock, stirring and manipulating the creamy starch out of the rice, allowing each ladleful to be absorbed before adding the next.

This will take around 15 minutes. Taste the rice — is it cooked?

Carry on adding stock until the rice is soft but with a slight bite.�

If you run out of stock before the rice is cooked, add some boiling water, he adds. take the pan off the heat and add a handful of Parmesan, beating in the cheese and butter vigorously.

I follow Mario’s advice carefully and still end up with something resembling baby sick. I guess there’s nothing for it but to book a table at the InterCon.

REVIEWS

Shankar Kotian, Executive Chef, Crowne Plaza Sohar What’s important to you?

Never compromising on quality and freshness. I always aim to exceed the expectations of every guest and consistently improve the hotel’s food with innovative and creative ideas.

What’s your signature dish?

Signature dishes are important in that they identify your work and challenge you to accelerate in this modern world of culinary creativity. One of my most popular dishes is a blue cheese crusted black Angus beef roll with sweet sour swede, eggplant with a green herb froth and red wine reduction.

If you could have any dish cooked by any chef and eaten in any location in the world, what would they be?

Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia always cooks up an enviable storm.

He recently invited myself and other executive chefs from the UAE to the Indego restaurant at the Grosvenor House Hotel in Dubai. His creations were amazing thanks to the contemporary combination of traditional Indian spicing and ingredients. Think rose petal sandwich, steamed yogurt with red currant jelly as well as roasted pistachio and mint ice cream.

Who is your cooking icon?

Chef Uwe Micheel, president of the Emirates Culinary Guild and kitchen director at the Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai. His working style is amazing. He constantly motivates, inspires and energises his teammates, not by pushing them but by satisfying basic human needs for achievement, a sense of belonging, recognition, self-esteem and the ability to live up to one’s ideals. He is a great mentor, a good teacher and the best chef I have come across.

Describe your most memorable food moment?

My older sister cooking the authentic and amazing Mangalorean-style mutton sukka with neer dosa – it’s out of this world. The will linger until my next Indian holiday.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Trend

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REVIEWS

Info Box

SAFARI ROOFTOP GRILL HOUSE Grand Hyatt Muscat Shatti Al Qurm, P.O. Box 951, Muscat Tel: 2464 1234 muscat.grand@hyatt.com Dinner: Saturday to Friday from 7pm to 11pm.

Closed during the summer – May to September Dinner for two, including drinks and tax/service charge: RO66.7

Y Magazine reviews anonymously and pays for its meals

ALL INCLUSIVE

VERD

8.5

A winning combination of al fresco dining and fine service wins over Kate Ginn

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here are two types of people: those who like all-inclusive holidays, where everything is covered by the one price, and others who prefer a

I’m in the former category. I like the simplicity of it and the fact that you choose your budget, according to how much you can afford, and stick to it. It means there are no nasty surprises for you or your credit card at the end of the holiday (at least, there aren’t if you don’t blow the budget on expensive trips and other unnecessary frivolities, as I invariably do).

So, the concept of all-inclusive dining appeals to me.

With a menu that only offers all-in meals, the rooftop Safari Grill House sounded like my kind of place. So I was one of last week after the summer break.

First off, the setting is pretty fantastic. It’s on the above that on a wide, open terrace overlooking the pool and garden area.

There’s a cooling breeze and the only sound is the unobtrusive background music.

As it’s part of the Safari complex, however, there is a touch of the wild around, with a stone oryx head or two on the walls as decoration. Zebra stripe paint on the walls and the giraffe-themed ladies loos all added to the effect.

Now, I’m a big fan of eating al fresco. Coming from the UK, however, it’s not exactly an activity that can be enjoyed on a regular basis; think summer nights sheltering under an umbrella trying to eat dinner in a torrential downpour while pretending we’re all having a terribly fun time.

Thankfully, there was absolutely no chance of rain in Muscat and no need for forced jollity. The evening still retained the warmth of the day and the scent of the sea.

So, how does this all work? Well, it’s simple really. There are three a la carte main courses at different prices – RO26, RO31 and RO36 – from which you choose and then select from a standard menu of sides and puddings.

Unlimited selected beverages are included in the package – this was the part that most excited my dining companion who was celebrating his birthday.

The hard bit comes trying to choose from the steaks, game and freshly caught seafood on offer. On recommendation from our excellent server – who was superb all night – I went for the seafood platter (RO31) and waited for the other side of the table to make his selection. And waited and waited‌

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Top outdoospot for rd in styleining

Among the world’s slowest menu choosers, he must be up there at the top.

To be fair, there is a lot to wade through but I was hungry in that ‘I need food now’ kind of way and was getting tetchy. Luckily, our waitress had far more patience, gave me a breadbasket to feast on, and eventually he settled on Australian Wagyu steak (RO36).

Safari Grill is the sort of place that serves as a setting for just about any occasion – romantic table for two, friends get together, business dinners or lively birthday parties (there were three when we were there).

Starter was salad – help yourself from the buffet bar – with large chunks of pumpkin and beetroot, Caesar salad, and the usual line-up. All tasted very fresh. The clear chicken broth soup was pretty good too.

This experience is all about your chosen mains though.

My seafood platter, served with mashed potato (or chunky chips or baked potato) was the best that I’ve had in the city, with huge, heavenly Omani prawns, the softest of of grilled vegetables (other options include corn on the Across the table, appreciative smacking of the lips were coming for the steak accompanied by baked potato and mushrooms. Now my friend is South African, so he knows his meat when it lands on his plate. He was impressed, his only gripe being that the medium was perhaps a little too pink.

At this point, my stomach resembled a football, round and swollen.

We were both stuffed but the staff were unhurried. There’s no rush here, no attempt to force the pace, which some restaurants are guilty of, and I liked the easy ambience.

After singing a few verses of ‘Happy Birthday’ three times for different diners, we had built up an appetite again and we were ready for pudding.

I went for sticky toffee pudding, an all-time favourite, and was a little disappointed to see it was the deconstructed variety and not oozing with gooey sauce. Still, it was not bad and polished off quickly. Slowcoach across the table had lemon meringue pie, a cute little creation with just the right mix of sharp tang on the tongue with a rush of sweetness.

Though the bar closes at 11pm, you can linger as long as you like (within reason, of course) and soak up the mellow mood.

Our bill, when it arrived, was as expected (with just the beverage not included in the free drinks list as extra). For once, I had managed to stick within my budget. I could really get to like this all-inclusive dining.

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WHICH INTERIOR TRIBE

DO YOU BELONG TO?

IDesign, the super cool Danish furniture store in Markaz Al Bahja, has come up with four style groups.

Discover which one you belong to and how you can upgrade your home with expert Kim Jepson

DELUXE

Who You Are: Rapaciously social and extravagant, you’re always travelling by black Mercedes to the Royal Opera House Muscat or the latest restaurant opening in the galleria.

Even when the global recession hit, you continued to enjoy the finer things in life like Chanel couture and Beluga caviar. Okay, we exaggerate. But you love your luxe and just hearing the word ‘budget’ makes you feel queasy.

What You Like: Decadence and designer labels. Marie Antoinette had nothing on you.

Your home oozes extrovert extravagance thanks to sumptuous fabrics, rich colours and golden accents.

Trend Alert: The must-have metallic finish of the moment is warm, polished copper, adding expensive warmth to any room.

Must Have: Danish designer Werner Panton’s stunning MOP lamp in gold finish.

Kim’s advice: Werner Panton’s MOP Lamp was designed in 1964. Made in Mother of Pearl and available in many shapes and sizes, it’s a true design classic.

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Who You Are: As an upmarket bohemian, you stay in five-star eco-lodges and buy your friendship bracelets from Links of London. You practice yoga at sunrise and believe in the positive power of art, music and literature.

What You Like: Life for you is one big adventure and your home reflects all the places you’ve visited in the world. When it comes to interior design though, you usually embrace pattern, colour and culture.

Trend Alert: It’s a shame we didn’t learn everything our grandmothers taught us; if we did, our homes would probably look a lot hipper right now. Nevertheless, embroidery and knitting is a major trend for 2013. From knotted carpets to various storage baskets, handmade is back and will be for a while.

Must Have: A bright hand-woven rug Kim’s advice: Rugs are becoming a fashion statement and, as such, many customers change them yearly to keep up with the trends. Whether they are hand woven or recycled carpets, the most important thing is the look and quality of the product.

UPNORDIC

Who You Are: A minimalist, you live your life simply and stylishly. White-walled galleries don’t ‘creep’ you out. Indeed, you hate clutter, inefficiency and space-hogging sentimentality of any kind. In fact, there’s no place for your children’s paintings unless they’re carefully curated, fabulously framed and artfully hung on your study’s wall.

What You Like: Scandinavian-style simplicity with a nod to nature. Think furniture with organic forms, soft edges and symmetry. Upnordic colours for you consist of delicate greens and simple, soft neutrals.

Trend Alert: Stone and wood are really being showcased in their natural stripped down state this season, revealing the beauty of the material in its natural form.

Must Have: A solid yet simple-looking sofa.

Kim’s advice: All our sofas are handmade. The majority are crafted in eastern Europe where you can still find artisans with the right skills. A new trend is customisation so that you get the sofa you want, in the quality, look, fabric and comfort that suits your needs.

URBAN

Who You Are: A city dweller who works hard and plays even harder. You’re happier prowling the malls and restaurants of Muscat than experiencing the great outdoors.

Cliff climbing for you happens in an air-conditioned gym with a faux wall.

What You Like: Utilitarian chic – everything has a purpose in your house. Think monochrome with a futuristic edge.

Trend Alert: On runways and home shows, designers have been showing computergenerated photorealist fabrics for a couple of seasons. Use them on cushions and bed linen to be bang on trend.

Must Have: Graphic wall prints or wallpaper.

Kim’s advice: Wall prints and wallpaper are an easy way to make a huge design impact in your home

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Health

Beauty

IT’S A MAN’S WORLD Masculine tailoring makes a powerful statement this season.

Just make sure you soften the effect with feminine touches like a pair of sky-high stilettos and a sexy silhouette. Nail the look with one of Stella McCartney’s pinstriped numbers or Haider Ackermann’s silver suits.

I absolutely love the quality and cut of this two piece from Jaeger.

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FASHION

BASIC INSTINCTS

Sassy, tailored separates in a pared-down palette has Penny Fray packing away her power prints and flashy frocks this autumn

This tote from Mango looks more expensive than RO30

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nything you can wear forever is usually a clarion call for me to hand over my credit card.

Think impeccable tailoring, thin cashmere jerseys and fuss-free frocks – usually in black. Call me boring but whenever I’m in serious purchasing mode, I want something I can use over and over again like a Chanel 2.55 bag or a string of Mikimoto pearls. They have to work hard to justify their heart-stopping price tag. But I’m not the only one embracing sensible fashion this season. Stella McCartney, Richard Nicoll and Roland Mouret are all into it too. After all, autumn’s runways whispered a quiet revolution of clean, sharp shapes in neutral hues.

The key to this trend is to step away from anything overly stylised and get dressed in five minutes flat.

Consider perennial closet classics like shift dresses, trouser suits and white shirts. At ChloÊ, cut out embroidery adds a girlish accent to plain work pieces, while Marni and McQ by Alexander McQueen both opted for sharper additions such as asymmetric button stands and contrast collar accents. If you’re on a budget, head to M&S for a crisp, white number that oozes quality.

Meanwhile, autumn’s refined carryalls are a lesson in modern minimalism. From Fendi’s sleek 2Jours tote to Lanvin’s stealth top-handle shopper, each elegant piece was designed with longevity in mind. Forever fashion at its finest. And while I don’t think you should ever scrimp on bags, coats or shoes, no one on the high street does minimalist chic better than Zara with its quality, clever cuts and understated accessories.

Best of British shirt – RO55 from Marks & Spencer

Antonio Berardi’s stretch-wool crepe skirt is ladylike with an unexpected quirk – the asymmetric zip fastening is covered with a peaked front panel. RO405 fron Net-A-Porter.com

These degradĂŠ metallic leather and suede pumps from Jimmy Choo offer a dazzling twist on the traditional. Available from RO159

This LBD from Zara is practically perfect, including the RO30 price tag.

A minimalist metallic belt will lift this one from Zara for RO11

MINIMALIST MODE Penny’s tips on stripping it back to basics:

1 Precise tailoring and attention to detail are all important aspects of the minimalist look. Designers famed for their simplicity include Jill Sander, Eileen Fisher and Calvin Klein. 2 Keep accessories to the minimum. This is not a trend that requires complicated styling. 3 Don’t overthink evening wear. The most basic black dress looks modern and sleek when paired with metallic accessories.

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BEAUTY

STYLE SECRETS What do Muscat’s fashion pack know that you don’t?

Penny Fray reveals some tips of the trade DISCOUNT SHOPPING: You don’t have to be a celebrity or Anna Wintour to access designer treats for less. Fashion PRs and young journalists working on a budget are known to make a weekly pilgrimage to Brands for Less in Markaz Al Bahja for everything from BCBG Max Azria and Coach, to Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren. I recently bought a real Pucci scarf for RO17. Happy days.

to measure is no longer a luxury that only the a glut of inexpensive tailors in the backstreets of Ruwi, Seeb and Muttrah. Just show them a magazine, settle on a price and voilà – you’ll have a forever piece that will make you look le perfecto.

MAD FOR MARANT: It has been a year since H&M's last designer collaboration, and this autumn sees one of the most anticipated collections yet – it has teamed up with Parisian designer Isabel Marant. Previews of the collection do not disappoint (see main image). A graduate of the famed Studio Berçot, Marant worked her way up the fashion system starting with a launching her eponymous collection in 1994.

Today she runs an internationally successful fashion powerhouse with a string of boutiques worldwide. Her Parisian chic style, a mix of bohemia and masculine

BLOWING THE BUDGET ON GOURMAND TREATS HAS NEVER BEEN MORE CHIC, SAYS PENNY FRAY Forget the latest Balenciaga bag – the far more fashionable accessory to have these days is a box full of divine looking cupcakes. Pastel-hued icing with pretty embellishments and lacey skirts offer the same aesthetic thrill as Marc Jacobs’ latest collection of dresses – but at a fraction of the price. And then there’s the box – sooo beautiful with coordinating ribbon and a posh paper bag. Never in the history of paying for overpriced coffee

MADE TO MEASURE: Bespoke tailoring

ALADDIN’S CAVE: They say that the best things come in small packages and this is certainly the case with The SABCO Centre’s souq. This authentically decorated little corner of the mall offers everything from local handicrafts to Indian pashminas. Bargaining is allowed, making the prices competitive with Muttrah Souq.

FASHIONABLE FOOD

tailoring, grows in popularity season after season.

The high street stampede starts next month.

FAB FIGURE: Smart girls may wear Spanx but even smarter ones get the M&S version – pick up a pretty pair from RO10.

BLING RINGS: The go-to place for brilliantly bright gems and imitation pieces is Fancy World.

We love their Bvlgari-style cocktail rings that cost just RO4 a pop. For the real deal, visit one of the SABCO Centre’s jewellery stores.

BEST FOOT FORWARD: Fashionable feet wear AlaĂŻa or Nicholas Kirkwood but frugal ones wear Nine West at the SABCO Centre.

been more ‘achingly hip’.

While the headlines bleat about global credit crunches, French import Fauchon, a pastiche Parisian cafĂŠ in the Opera Galleria, is a nouveau hit with both Omanis and expats alike.

And of course, what would be an Instagram account without snaps of a never-ending array of elegant edibles?

I knew food had become fashionable when I managed to spend nearly Queen’s grocers, during a recent trip to London. Everything looked so temptingly classy. Even cheap sweets like cola bottles looked buyable in their retro jars – despite the RO5 price tag. Then, there was the trip to LadurÊe in Dubai that saw me blow an entire week’s grocery budget on a dozen pink macarons. And I can’t even pass Paul in MGM without stopping to buy one of their fruit covered pastries. Yummy!

So what galvanises this headlong rush through the doors of every gourmand boutique? The beautiful packaging and luxe branding helps but much of it is simply food’s recently acquired ‘cool factor’ in the media, the trickle-down effect from all those artisan chocolatiers and bakers.

More importantly, good food rarely disappoints, in fact, it usually delights in terms of gifts.

NEXT TIME: PERFUME TRIBES SPONSORED BY

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Health

Fashion

IS THIS WOMAN DECEIVING YOU? The makeover backlash has begun, says Penny Fray

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f you suffer from retina-scarring, child-terrifying hideousness, hope exists in a bag. Yes, the make-up bag is every woman’s instant solution to plainness. Just empty the contents and apply for jawdropping results. Otherwise, call a surgeon.

Okay, I exaggerate, but when you remove this model’s blue contact lenses, false lashes and layers of foundation, she looks a very different woman (below right). She’s still beautiful but is she being dishonest?

This is the question currently trending on social media sites after a completely different set of before and after pictures by the make-up artist Melissa Murphy ignited an international furore about the morality of cosmetics.

One picture shows a pretty enough girl without make-up while the other demonstrates how easy it is to transform someone with the right tools and knowhow. The stark difference sparked a debate on Reddit, with some online audiences labeling make-up a ‘betrayal’ because it ‘hides a woman’s true self ’.

Similar comments were circulating after prison officer Sam Bailey’s astonishing transformation on the UK version of TV show The X Factor. (If you haven't seen it, Google it.)

Of course, this is not a new issue. Women have been enhancing their God-given gifts for centuries.

Ancient Egyptians were known to use kohl on their eyes, while Native Americans applied plant infused formulas to fix facial flaws. Detractors soon followed.

In 1616, puritan Thomas Tuke condemned make-up for creating a ‘false face’ while later moralists continued the rebuke, claiming cosmetics were a mask for women's sins and vices. By the late 19th century women began to promote their independence through rouge, bucking the homemaker stereotype in favour of fashion.

Yes, it’s a feminist issue but it’s also one of vanity. I usually trowel on foundation to shore up my ego. Going barefaced for me is unthinkable because, like some women, I look a little worse for wear without it. But am I deceiving anyone? No. We live in a world of artifice where hair extensions, faux lashes and changed skin tone are now the norm. On the scale between fake and real, I probably veer towards the latter with my natural eyebrows, lick of mascara and clear lipgloss.

As far as I’m concerned, anyone who tweets their so-called morning face sans puffy eyes and sallow skin have probably had their eyelashes dyed and skin treated. Not admitting to all the effort that goes into looking natural is the real deception.

Of course, I blame celebrities. They’re always saying that their suspiciously perfect bodies, full lips and lusciously tousled locks are all natural, rather than the work of an army of beauticians, hairdressers and personal trainers. It may be the case with a few but not all.

At the end of all the debating, there’s one thing that shines like a pot of gold and that’s authenticity. If you’re comfortable in your own skin – great! If not, apply some kick-ass red lipstick.

MUST HAVE MAKE UP THAT WILL MAKE YOU LOOK LIKE YOU’RE NOT WEARING ANY A lightweight and moisturising foundation by Laura skin covering blemishes and visibly smoothing out lines as well as wrinkles.

Available in 12 shades across a range of skin tones for a hyper natural look.

Shine naturally – without preservatives, parabens choose bareMinerals' all-natural gloss that combines pure minerals with delectable ingredients such as pomegranate seed oil extract.

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RapidLash is a high performance eyelash enhancing serum which conditions lashes to look a lot stronger, fuller and longer in as little as 30 days.

BEAUTY

PersePolis restaurant “The Taste of Persia” THE DESIRE FOR PERSIAN CUISINE IS THE INSPIRATION FOR THIS VENUE. EVERY DISH IS MADE FRESH AND FROM SCRATCH WITH THE BEST INGREDIENTS. VISIT PERSEPOLIS IN “MADINAT AL SULTAN QABOOS” TO TASTE DELICIOUS PERSIAN DISHES AND TO ENJOY REAL HOSPITALITY.

BUSINESS LUNCH HOME DELIVERY BARBEQUE NIGHT PARTY AND CELEBRATION ARRANGEMENT (OUTDOOR/ INDOOR)

For more details contact: Tel : +968 24699054 or 98969856 Email:info@persepolis-oman.com Web site: www.persepolis-oman.com

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CARS AND INDOORS

THE CROWNING JEWEL majestic, and just a two-hour drive from Muscat. Discover the former royal residence of Jabreen Castle

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My Hood

Cars

Wi-Fi

Indoors

Destination

Jabreen Castle

EVOCATIVE OF A TIME GONE BY, THE NOBLE JABREEN CASTLE WILL ENCHANT YOU WITH ITS HISTORY AND STUNNING ARCHITECTURE Words & images: Jerzy Wierzbicki

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intact. Still, there are signs of its turbulent history to be found, such as the wall full of cannon holes, battered through the years from attacking forces, which has been left in its authentic state.

Located just a few kilometres behind Bahla in the Al Dakhliyah region, Jabreen’s setting is breathtaking on its own. Planted among a small oasis of dusty palm trees, it takes in a panorama sweeping across the plain and towards the end of the Akhdar mountain range.

Built as a palatial residence around 1680 by Imam Bil’arub bin Sultan, the third ruler of Oman’s Ya’ruba dynasty, the castle is a albeit one that lasted little more than two decades and ended in bloody defeat at the hands of his brother’s besieging army.

The brother, however, had no intention of living in the castle and upped sticks elsewhere.

Apart from a brief occupation, the abandoned castle was left unloved for three centuries until the Ministry of Heritage and Culture reclaimed it.

Thanks to the Ministry’s tireless efforts, it has been restored to its former glory and has become a

popular tourist destination.

I have been waiting for a good time to visit Jabreen Castle. Now it is here. Early October, when the scorching summer sun gives way to more forgiving autumnal rays, is perfect to explore Al Dakhliyah.

I arrived at the castle around 3pm on a recent Saturday. Cool and dry, groups of clouds clung together in the sky providing ideal light for photography.

Using knowledge from lessons I took at an art academy in Poland on how to take photographs of architecture and other geometrical objects, I quickly set up my equipment.

A dark blue sky with pillows of white clouds formed a perfect backdrop for the sandy brown walls of the castle. At the entrance, I chatted to three kind Omani men before moving into the main What immediately struck me was the forbidding feel inside, highlighted by the highly defensive character of the buildings. Very narrow walls led to small rooms with windows tiny enough for just one bowman or gunner to see through. I found a few small terraces with old-fashioned cannons still aiming out into the distance. This was a fortress built to keep people out.

It appears that Imam Bil’arub had a softer side, though. A room for his horse was built on the upper storey near his personal quarters, an unusual feature for a castle.

According to historians, the horse would have been led up a ramp in the curving passageway, now a stairway for visitors. The animal would have been kept near to facilitate a quick escape as well as for sentimental reasons.

There are places in the castle

for quiet contemplation, study and prayer, including a schoolroom and two mosques. There is an air use as a centre of learning for the study of Islamic law, history, Arabic, medicine and astrology.

If you are a fan of rich museums and big collections of historical artifacts, Jabreen is not for you. Inside you can admire the architectural details, mostly made from wood, but there’s little in the way of small objects – although in one large room, I came across examples of old pots and mysterious metal casing.

In my view, the most attractive feature inside the main building is the gallery, with typical Omani windows.

From the main building, I moved outside to see the defensive walls. I wanted a good overview of the castle but not the usual, muchphotographed vista. I wanted to show this royal residence from a slightly different perspective.

The sun was very low and the air was warm.

Behind the castle, the navy sky with grey rain clouds. In the fading light, the old walls were illuminated in all their noble splendour. It was my shot of the day.

TRAVEL GUIDE

T

owering above me, the dramatic brown walls stretched up to a delicate balcony with carved wooden railings and a slender, scalloped arch overlooking the courtyard below.

For a building that is more than 300 years old, Jabreen Castle retains much of its original beauty. This is partly down to an impressive restoration, which is

Jabreen Castle is just a two-hour drive from Muscat.

Take the main road to Nizwa and follow it (literally) to the end of the road. Go past Nizwa and the junction to Salalah and Adam. Look out for the road signposted to Bahla. A 4x4 is not needed.

GPS locations for Jabreen N22’54’55� E57’14’58�

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My Hood

Cars

Wi-Fi

Indoors

A Whale of a Time

From rare species to mighty skeletons, the Natural History Museum packs a lot in, says Joe Gill

I

f a meteorite hurtling to earth lands in the Omani desert, and nobody hears it, does it make a sound?

It was Bishop Berkeley who asked this philosophical question about a tree crashing in the forest – but it popped into my mind as I wandered among the exhibits of Muscat’s Natural History Museum in Al Khuwair.

As you enter the museum you are greeted by a 270 million-year-old fossilised tree. That’s pretty old, huh? Apparently, a whole forest of It’s a taste of the kind of geological treasures stored in this low-key complex next to the Ministry of Culture and Heritage.

I remember as a child being taken on school trips to the museums in London and feeling the excitement of seeing the giant skeletons of long dead lizards towering above me.

Today I was hoping for just such a Tyrannosaurus Rex moment – the one where you come face to face with the monster of your childhood fantasy, standing in a vast hall, ready to strike.

It would come today – but like all good things, I would have to wait for it.

Those looking for easy rewards may be disappointed – there’s no shop, not even a cafe. However, the museum packs a lot of information into a compact space.

On the morning we went, there were a few tourist visitors, but we pretty much had the whole place to ourselves. This was great for 040

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our three-year-old daughter who could run up and down the collections making the motionsensitive lights go on. and stuffed specimens illustrating the diverse environment of the country. Usefully, with such an abundance of species and habitats to cover, it breaks it up into regions, with the added bonus of giving you a wildlife and geography lesson on the Sultanate.

We saw the white-tailed mongoose from Dhofar, the green turtle, the bee-eater bird, long-legged buzzard and desert hedgehog among other fauna.

Some of the stuffed animals did look a little past their prime, although the realistic scenery in which they are placed gives you a sense of their living habitat.

Meteorites that have fallen – silently or otherwise – on Oman’s vast deserts can be found in the ‘Oman Through Time’ section on fossils and geology.

We then moved onto the wildlife collection, containing the bigger beasts including the fearsome Arabian leopard, Arabian oryx and the sadly extinct Asiatic cheetah. As I looked into the eyes of the leopard, and read about all the rare and wonderful species of Oman, I wanted to know more about their precarious existence and the efforts to preserve them.

I did not come away especially reassured – hunting has clearly taken a heavy toll on a number of species, only some of which appear

Images: Jerzy Wierzbicki

CARS AND OUTDOORS INDOORS

to have the kind of protection they need for survival.

Arachnophobics be warned – there are some very large bugs, scorpions and the scary looking Camel and Wolf Spiders on display, and a hair-raising variety of locusts.

By modern standards, it has to be said, there is very little use of interactivity or multimedia at the museum. No video, very limited audio and one interactive quiz on geology leaves the senses a little wanting.

Perhaps we have been spoiled by other museums, where sound effects and moving installations enliven proceedings, and there are lots of ways to discover things using games and activities.

This is an old-fashioned museum with static glass panel displays of stuffed beasts, and illustrated wall panels conveying information on the geology and nature of Oman.

Still, within these constraints, it is a comprehensive and informative collection that anyone interested in natural history will enjoy.

And the museum does have one very impressive exhibit – the huge sperm whale suspended in the Whale Hall. Washed up in Barka in 1986, the skeleton of this mighty beast has found a resting place that alone merits a visit.

Hung around the hall are a range of smaller skeletons including dolphins and porpoises, reminding you how the seas of Oman are teeming with life. With the press of a button, the eerie call of the humpback whale and dolphin were enough to spook our daughter.

So get yourself into a studious mood, spend time reading the display notes and you will come away with a lot of new knowledge about the vast richness of Oman’s natural heritage.

DID YOU KNOW? Oman was covered in ice 600 million and 300 million years ago.

Oman’s desert used to be warm and wet, and there were large areas of swamp.

The Hajar Mountains were formed around 50 million years ago when two continental plates – the Arabian and Eurasian - pushed up against one another.

Oman’s oldest rocks, found in the Al Huqf region, are 800 million years old.

The Arabian Tahr, native to the steep rocky slopes of the Hajar Mountain, is unique to Oman.

Barn owls are common to Oman.

Museum Opening Times: 4-6pm (Sundays only) Entrance: Location: Al Khuwair, 18th November Street, opp Ministry of Petroleum and Gas

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I n d o o r s POSTCARDS FROM

Alex and Marko Ayling from the US,

who won a competition to travel the world, recommend

OMAN

Alex & Marko won the Biggest Baddest Bucket List competition run by mydestination.com. Follow their journey – they're off to Tanzania next – on www.mydestination.com or connect with them at vagabrothers.com, @vagabrothers, /Vagabrothers, and Instagram.com/vagabrothers

‘Salam alaykum’ (we’ve been practicing our arabic) from oman, the latest stop in our six-month journey around the globe. We’ve had a whirlwind week in the Sultanate, packing in as much as we can from luxury hotels to desert camps, and wild wadis to mountains.

It’s been a thrilling time and we both wish that we were able to stay longer but alas, the open road calls. Before we depart these shores, however, we can give you the lowdown on the oman that we discovered during our time here and the things we have seen. For a start, we know that the country is home to more than 3.8 million with a diverse population made up of people from all over the world. That’s the great thing about oman; it has opened its arms to welcome different cultures and religions. at its peak, the Sultanate’s influence extended to Iran, modern-day Pakistan and as far south as Zanzibar, with extensive trading links to east africa. of course, it’s always been close to the Uk and United States, with military and political ties. Like its neighbours, oil is the mainstay of the economy but tourism is fast catching up. around 1.75 million people visited oman in 2012 and it’s increasing each year. It seems more and more people are realising that oman is the little hidden gem of arabia.

Snake

canyo

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My Favourite Place: Alex: We’ve been to some awesome places, including the Grand Mosque, Muttrah Souq, Wahiba Sands, Snake Canyon and Nizwa. But my highlight is the Hajar Mountains because I wasn’t expecting mountains of that magnitude. I loved driving through the wadis and seeing a couple of local families and then some goat herders. The green of the wadis in juxtaposition with the dry, brown hills was incredible.

Marko: Al Hamra (the 400-year-old town in Al Dakhiliyah) was really cool. It was so amazing to see a place with all the classical mud-brick homes. It’s something we have never seen before. I just wish that that we could have stopped there for a while.

Highlights: Alex: The Eid goat market at Al Mintrib was the coolest cultural experience we have had so far on this trip. It was so different from anything we have encountered. We were really lucky to see it as it only happens twice a year. There were around 200 people, who were so friendly, and if it weren’t for the cars, it would have been like stepping back in time. It was a sensory overload. We felt that we had a glimpse into the real, rural Oman.

Marko: For me, it was the dhow shipyard in Sur. Oman’s connection with the sea and its maritime heritage is fascinating. What makes Oman so interesting is its history of trade links and being part of the spice and incense sea routes. We saw the dhows being built by hand, which really inspired us to come back

grand moSqUe

Lowlights: Alex: We are both surfers and so friends of the ocean, so to see miles and miles of pristine

coastline covered in rubbish was a personal lowlight. The sight of locals and visitors throwing rubbish on the beach was very sad. Oman needs to get serious about trash and make a cultural change. People please stop littering.

Marko:

Souvenirs: Alex: We’ve been travelling for four months now, so we probably smell a bit bad. some Frankincense to lessen the impact.

Marko: I’ve got my eye on a traditional Khanjar.

I’ve bought

Where to stay: Alex & Marko: Al Jissah Resort & Spa. At the opposite end, head to the Desert Retreat Camp Wahiba Sands. We had a tent made out of goat hair and were greeted on arrival with coffee and dates. When they turned the

aL mIn TrIB g oaT mark eT

Final Thoughts: Alex & Marko: Oman is a really cool place. If you want to do outdoor activities, it has it all – mountain biking and trekking, camping and scuba diving to name a few. It has an awesome culture and a cool legacy. In America, the Middle East is not seen as potential travel destination but hopefully this will start to change – and Oman is a great place to start exploring this fascinating region.

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-FI THE TECH IN YOU

Postcards from

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WI-FI

AFTER DARK

9G NKXG KP C VGEJPQNQI[ YQTNF Ŗ CPF CV VJG GPF QH C NQPI FC[ there is nothing better than unwinding with a little help from a few choice gadgets. Matt Herbst explores what’s cool for bedtime SOUND ASLEEP

As far as bedtime gadgets go, they don’t come much quirkier than this. The Sound Asleep pillow comes loaded with a built-in speaker that hooks up to your MP3 player and plays your favourite tunes while you drift off to dreamland. There’s a memory foam version and the original with a hollow fibre filling. RO9 from www.soundasleeppillow.co.uk

SMARTY PANTS

WHOLE OF THE MOON

If you like to spend your nights asleep under the luminous rays of our rocky satellite, this gadget is for you. The RC Illuminated Moon hangs on your wall and shines like the real deal and comes with a remote that allows you to control the lunar phases, Use the manual function to set it so it mirrors the phases of the moon outside – enjoy lunar nights even when its cloudy. Go to www.iwantoneofthose.com RO13.50

EDITOR’S PICK NIGHT LIGHT

LUMIE’S LATEST CONTRIBUTION TO THE BEDSIDE COMES IN THE FORM OF THIS SUNRISE ALARM CLOCK. IT BOASTS A LAMP THAT GRADUALLY BRIGHTENS, WAKING YOU UP GENTLY AND REPORTEDLY BOOSTING YOUR MOOD, ENERGY AND PRODUCTIVITY LEVELS THROUGHOUT THE DAY. IT ALSO HAS AN AM/FM RADIO, MP3 FUNCTION, DIMMABLE NIGHTLIGHT AND A SELECTION OF RELAXING SOUNDS THAT HELP YOU DRIFT OFF TO SLEEP. WITH 15-90 MINUTE SUNRISE AND SUNSET OPTIONS, IT DOUBLES AS BEDSIDE LIGHT AND NIGHTLIGHT. FROM WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK FOR RO55

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It’s been a long day at work, you’ve fed the kids, bathed them and brushed their teeth – but you’ve still got one more job to do. Smart PJs are the tired parents’ friend, guaranteeing the little ones will run eagerly up the stairs. Not only do they come in various fun styles, but if you scan one of the multiple patterns with your smartphone, you can download one of 47 children’s stories including Mother Goose classics and tales by the Brothers Grimm and Hans Christian Andersen. If only there were grown-up Smart PJs too. www.smartpjs.com RO12

FORTY WINKS

Counting sheep to sleep? Interested in improving your chance of getting some shuteye? Look no further – the Zeo sleep manager, compatible with iOS and Android devices, is a headband that monitors your sleeping pattern using special sensors, wirelessly recording all the data on to your smartphone via a free app, including when you wake up and when you fall back asleep. www.amazon.com RO97

NEW! XIAOMI MI3 Half the price of an Apple 5C but offering a lot of the same features – the new Xiaomi Mi3 will be available at the end of October. Storage options are 16GB for RO125 or 64GB for RO156 per phone. Just to add to its worth, Google’s former Android vice president, Hugo Barra, recently joined Xiaomi Global in the same role.

The Mi3 comes equipped with a five-inch full HD IPS display with 441ppi, and a 3050mAh battery Processor is Nvidia’s Tegra 4 or Qualcomm’s Snapdragon 800 depending on the carrier, with 2GB of RAM. An aluminium-magnesium alloy body Xiaomi’s new handset runs Android 4.2 Jelly Bean OS with the company’s own MIUI V5 software on top, and comes in classic white or black models, as well as grey, yellow, pink and blue.

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CARS

Ford Edge Sport Engine: 3.7 litre V6 Horsepower: 305 Transmission: six-speed SelectShift Automatic 0-100kph in 7.5 seconds Price from: RO11,595 (SE)

Car of the Week Make a lasting impression with the Ford Edge Sport, where style meets the road, writes Kate Ginn

I

t’s always a dilemma when choosing an SUV. Do you go for comfort and durability,

style over substance and miss out on handling and versatility?

Thankfully with the Ford Edge Sport, you no longer need to choose because you can have both.

In the highly competitive midsize crossover market, the Edge Sport has proved its mettle with favourable reviews and powerful performance both off and on road.

For a start, it looks impressive, a chunky car which feels as solid to drive as it appears.

It’s designed to appeal equally to urbanites and those up for more adventure at the weekend. It has that duality of being excellent for navigating the testing school run or climbing up mountainous terrain.

What really puts it in the top league is the spacious interior, which is more than roomy adults, without anyone needing to feel squashed in the back or uncomfortable during long journeys.

Inside, thanks to new sounddeadening foams and a thicker windscreen, it’s beautifully quiet, making for a composed and responsive ride, which should please even the most hardened purists.

What also stands out is the seamless blend of sedan and sportutility attributes – not the easiest combination to pull off. With the Edge you get the handling of a

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saloon with the high seating and dominant view of an SUV. Leather upholstery and wrapped steering wheel add a luxurious touch. There’s also a ten-way power passenger seat with memory settings, reclining rear seats and ‘EasyFold’ second-row seat to optimum position. If you can’t get comfortable in this car, then quite frankly, give up.

Before speed demons reading this start to feel left out, let me assure you that the Ford Edge Sport will satisfy you too. It’s 3.7L, V6 engine and sporttuned suspension makes for a thrilling drive. While the six-speed automatic transmission may be a bit sluggish at times, it can more than hold its own when it really gets going. Don’t hold back with this car – it wants to be tested.

It’s pretty good when it comes to gas guzzling too. Based on environmental ratings in America, the Edge Sport delivers 26 mpg) compared with similar competitors.

For 2013, a few features have On the outside, the Edge Sport really hits one out of the ballpark for me. I love its smooth lines and soft edges, combined with headturning design, such as the bold black grille, smoked head and tail lamps, oval shaped chrome exhaust and eye-catching wheels. It looks sort of cuddly and aggressive at the same time.

Slip inside and there’s all sorts of switches and gadgets for big boys the seven-colour programmable ambient lighting and the automatic rain-sensing wipers. A touch of a button starts the car and another one can slide back the panoramic Vista Roof to make the most of the Oman sun.

It can take time to master the MyFord Touch system with 8�

LCD screen. It’s worth being patient though. With voiceactivation, you can take charge of your busy life on the go with hands-free entertainment and communications.

Once linked with your phone, you can make calls and hear messages. It also plays music from the phone, iPod or USB through a quality stereo.

Performance and looks are not the whole package, of course.

Safety is a major consideration, especially if you have little ones to take care off, and the Edge Sport has scored highly in crash tests.

Peace of mind comes from ABS, stability control, a safety canopy with rollover sensor and front-seat side and full-length side curtain airbags.

If you have older children, you’ll appreciate the programmable Ford MyKey system, which allows parents to limit vehicle speed and stereo volume for teenage drivers.

So, you see you can have it all with your car after all. Choose Ford and you could literally get an Edge over other drivers.

They say: ‘What you drive should make a statement’ We say: ‘Trendy and exciting crossover’

Check this out

22� polished aluminium wheels with black spoke accents Sport-tuned suspension 12-speaker Sony sound system with two USB ports Dual zone electronic automatic climate control MyFord Touch 8� LCD screen with voice activation Leather upholstery Ambient lighting Roll stability control Hill start assist Full-length side curtain airbags

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