Y Magazine #280, July 25 2013

Shopping Special Y’s Favourite things for eid Renaissance Day/ Mono Mania Jebel Weavers / Movie Reviews Feeding Hamriyah / Gadgets

06 Iceman Cometh: Bader Al Lawati

EVERY THURSDAY NOW AVAILABLE IN BARKA ALL THE WAY TO SOHAR

EASTERN EATS: Magical Mumtaz COOL CUTS: Men’s Styling POSTCARD: South Africa

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JUL 25 - 31 • ISSUE 280 • WEEKLY

Double

Trouble The Ups & Downs of Raising Twins

PLUS!

Fashion

CONScIOUS COUTURE

Outdoors

32

INCENSE ODYSSEY

Food

37

IFTAR ON THE MOVE

27

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Relax in the stately surroundings of the Al Bustan Palace, a Ritz-Carlton Hotel, while tucking into a delicious dinner. Sound good? This could be you thanks to our fabulous competition to win Iftar for two at one of Oman’s finest hotels. It’s simple to take part. Just tweet the word ‘Iftar’ to @ytabloid #AlBustanPalace, by Aug 1. The Iftar meal can be redeemed up to the end of Ramadan. Good luck!

TRENDBAROMETER GOING UP

ROYAL BABIES Yes, we know not everyone is rejoicing but we love the fact the birth of the new Prince and heir to the throne has lifted spirits in the UK. At a time of strain for some, it has brought some much-needed sunshine to the world.

GOING DOWN

SELFISHNESS We’re past the halfway point of Ramadan and thoughts may be turning to Eid but it would be nice to see the spirit of generosity carry on long after the holy month has ended.

THIS WEEK… We’ve been out on the town for our work Iftar, enjoyed some retail therapy to get into the shopping mood before Eid – and planning our next holidays.

EDITOR’S

NOTE

Welcome to the new look Y Magazine your indispensable guide to everything modern Oman has to offer.

Fast forward

B

eing a parent is one of the most rewarding and challenging jobs that any of us will likely undertake in our life. That little bundle suddenly becomes our world.

Well, now imagine if that bouncing baby was doubled and along with it comes twice everything else too – two times the crying, hugs, joy and exhaustion. The chance of having twins naturally is around 1 in every 89 births. So these are pretty special babies, often in more ways than one. This week, we talk to mums of twins about their little duos – and there are a couple of heart-lifting tales. We’re also looking at Oman through the years for the 43rd Renaissance Day, weaving magic with the carpet makers of Jebel Shams and going shopping – so can you with our special coupon offers. Enjoy! * Editor Penny Fray will return next week Team Y

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EDITOR IN CHIEF Sayyida Iman bint Hamad bin Hamood Al Busaidi CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Eihab Abutaha MANAGING EDITOR Penny Fray SECTIONS EDITOR Kate Ginn

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JUL 25 - 31 / ISSUE 280

03

contents JULY 25 2013

Your Oman

10

06 The Big Interview

Bader al Lawati 08 Your Oman

The Golden Diet 1o News

New Film Festival

This Week

Features 18 Twice As Nice

Life with Twins 22 All Stitched Up Carpet Makers 24 Mass Iftar Al Hamriyah

26 Renaissance

The Next Phase

14 This Week

Ice Cold Meet 16 Movie Listings

In Their Skin

22

Food & Drink 27 Trend

Iftar On The Move 3o Restaurant Review

Mumtaz Mahal

27

Cars & Outdoors

38 Destination

Wadi Dawkah

40 Indoors

Favourite Things 42 Postcard from...

South Africa 44 Car of the Week

Renault Duster

46 Y-Fi

Sweat in Style 32 Fashion

Green and Glam

34 Beauty

Monobrow 35 Beauty

Men’s Hairstyles

14

Health & Beauty

46 NEXT WEEK’S ISSUE...

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THE BIGGEST EXCITEMENT RETURNS!

YOUR

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INTERVIEW

OMAN

ICE MAN

BADER AL LAWATI, FREEZING OMANI, ANTARCTIC EXPLORER AND Environmentalist Words: Kate Ginn

Q. Tell me about yourself in 60 seconds or less.

I started my career in Australia as a media executive at Besttel telecom. Then I worked for Audi Middle East in Dubai in the media and events department. After almost ten years abroad, I finally found my way back home to Oman. I’m currently a corporate communications executive at Enhance Oman. When I’m not in the office, I always find my way to the outdoors – and Oman is the perfect place for that.

You’ve spoken a lot about your experience of being one half of the Freezing Omanis selected to go to Antarctica as part of the 2041 Expedition in February this year. What was the hardest part?

The main difficulty was fundraising. Corporations aren’t keen on funding individual initiatives and the concept of sponsoring athletes, environmentalists and grassroots movements is still very new. Around 85 different companies rejected me before I got my four sponsors – The Cake Gallery, Enhance Oman, Sharq Sohar Steel and the University of Wollongong in Dubai.

People’s reactions have not been all favourable. What is your response?

Many people thought it was a ‘holiday’ and didn’t accept the idea of corporations supporting it. Sadly, the negative comments are from people who haven’t read enough about the initiative. My response is simple: explain that we are just trying to raise awareness about the importance of small individual actions, and that what we have learnt in Antarctica will come back to Oman in the form of our environmental campaigns.

You must have seen some amazing sights in Antarctica. Tell us about your most memorable?

I guess I would have to say the night sky – looking at the Milky Way and the Aurora just got me to stand in complete shock. Seeing the stars that clear just magnifies that sense of being very insignificant in the grand scale of things.

We’ve read that you’re a bit of an action man. What other crazy things have you done?

I’ve cage dived with sharks, parasailed, done the occasional cliff jumping and rock climbing, and I had a brief racing career on the Australian racetracks – really anything that would give me an adrenaline rush. (Lets hope my parents don’t read this).

Was there one big lesson that you learnt from the Antarctic expedition?

The main thing that touched me was the impact of small things. Hearing the success stories of the 2041 alumni really inspired me; one person with just an idea of doing something better can achieve a lot. It’s what I want to spread in Oman – the idea that you don’t have to belong to an organisation or have a team; just start your initiative and you will end up finding people to help along the way.

Since returning to Oman, you’ve been really busy with public appearances and other work. What have you been up to?

I’ve been spending a lot of time working on my campaign to reduce plastic bag use.

Apart from that, I’ve been touring schools and institutions sharing the Freezing Omanis story and trying to get a few people to start their own campaigns.

The group Clean Up Oman estimates there are more than 12 million plastic bags provided freely to customers every month in Muscat alone.

Do you think your campaign can succeed?

I’ve been meeting with different distributors to try and set up a training programme for cashiers to reduce the distribution of plastic bags, so that people purchasing one item wouldn’t be given a plastic bag to begin with. Experiencing the problem first hand really shocks your system to realise that something has to be done.

You’re working with the new Freezing Omanis and have been very tightlipped about their identity so far. Can you tell us more?

Hopefully not for long. Soon we will be unveiling them to Oman. For now I can say that we have a parent-of-two (codename Seal), a photographer (codename Glacier) and a marine environmentalist (codename Blizzard). Oh and also, we’re showing 2041 that Omani women are just as capable by sending two women this time.

When you do with the little bit of time off that you have?

A good run with my dog is always enjoyable. If I’m lazy, then a good movie on the couch. Otherwise, I like to escape to the deserts or wadis. Nothing beats the outdoors and the company of good friends.

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JUL 25 - 31 / ISSUE 280

Bader’s tips to make things happen: 1. Keep at it. If it were easy then everyone would have done it.

2. Research, research, research!

Know what you want to do and have a plan before you start. Too many people fail because they don’t have a plan of the next step.

When they get there, they don’t know what to do next.

3. Get support from friends and family. Nothing will keep you going more than a kind word or an unasked-for favour.

The Voice of Oman Isobel Spaven Donn on the use of golden carats for weight loss

correspondence Happy Renaissance Day Dear Editor,

“

Worth your weight in gold”, I thought, until very recently, was some sort of an archaic saying that had been passed down the generations from a time when gold medallions weren’t just an ornament around your average wide boy’s neck. That was until I read about the Ramadan weight loss programme taking place over the border in the UAE. For Emiratis and expats alike, the scheme is running through the holy month to encourage a healthier way of life and a new start for people looking to change their eating habits – and what better time to do that than during the fasting month?

Several well-known diets are based on a fasting principle and some health experts rave about fasting’s health benefits.

Austerity measures mean that it’s not quite kilogram for kilogram; for each kilogram of weight lost by a participant, dubbed ‘golden losers’, they will receive a gram of gold (provided that they lose at least 2 kgs).

I’m sure there are some grey areas in the concept, but I’m of the opinion that if the shoe fits, buy it: if this works in tackling the obesity problem in the UAE then I’m all for it.

Samoa Air, the first airline to charge people according to their weight, should take note: don’t just charge your passengers extra for their spare tyres, which will just end in poorer, fat Samoans. Instead, positively encourage them to lose the pounds with an incentive weight-loss scheme à la Dubai: 1000 free Air Miles for every kilogram lost. Leaner Samoans, taking more Samoa Air flights – everyone’s a winner.

Next week: ALI AL BALUSHI

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JUL 25 - 31 / ISSUE 280

There is a wonderful feeling around.

You can feel so much serenity, peace and tranquility that one wonders why it can’t be like this throughout the year.

Why is it that everything is forgotten once this spiritual month is over? Then, we are back to the infighting among ourselves.

Ramadan is a period of giving and sharing. Charity and help offered to the needy should continue throughout the year.

The old schools of thought, of yoga and meditation offer the best way for the human body to de-stress.

Here’s wishing His Majesty and this

beautiful country and people a Happy Renaissance Day. God bless all.

Dr. Vijayalakshmi R Shetty Muscat

Debate of the Week We asked: Out of all your possessions, what would be the hardest to give away and why?

greatest possession, rather than material things.

Aarti Vats My old childhood family photographs because they are the only way for me to relive and cherish the most amazing time of my life.

Sherrin Finoj My lovely ring. It was given to me by my dear hubby on my first birthday with him after we were married. I wear it always and without it I feel incomplete. Even though I have been given so many gifts by him since, this one was the most special to me.

Winner!

Reply of the Week

Susan Cochingco-Deced Concepcion My old books. I still have them now, despite the fact that information can be found very quickly over the internet. It gives me a sense of satisfaction and fulfilment every time I look at them. They’re like family and friends just hanging around, ready to be of help when I need it.

R Chidhambaranathan My daughter Aarahdhanaa. She is amazingly beautiful. Spending time with her makes me forget this world. I feel my family are my

WRITE TO US AND WIN A VOUCHER

Shetu Sushil My memories would be the hardest thing ever to give away.

Sami Ul Asad My trusty mobile phone, which allows me to contact my loved ones and the entire world.

Dahlia C Castaneda My white gold ring given to me by my eldest daughter. It was her first gift to me from her first salary working overseas.

This Week’s Debate: Qaranqashow and Eid is a great time for children. What’s your favourite childhood memory? Tell us about it on Facebook.

Dinner For Two

SEND US YOUR letters, photos, news and views to info@y-oman.com / @ytabloid / www.facebook.com/ytabloid. Impress us and the winning correspondent will receive a RO20 voucher towards lunch or dinner at Park Inn. Terms and conditions apply.

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6/25/13 5:33 PM

NEWS

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Sultanate is a great place to live reveals study, as the country celebrates 43 years of the Renaissance Words: Kate Ginn Images: ONA

JUL 25 - 31 / ISSUE 280

P

eople in Oman are among the happiest in the region thanks to an enviable lifestyle for residents, according to a survey.

Looking at different factors, 62 per cent of the population say they are satisfied with their life and almost 20 per cent claim to be ‘extremely satisfied’ with living in the Sultanate.

This made people in Oman among the happiest in the region when it comes to life factors, with the top reasons being general safety, political stability and security.

The ‘Happiness and Wellbeing in the MENA’ survey compared three main regions, North Africa, Levant and the Gulf.

Oman came out with some of the lowest levels of everyday stress, with only 15 per cent claiming to be ‘extremely stressed.’

The top cause of stress in Oman, as across the region, is the increased cost of living, the survey discovered.

It seems we’re pretty happy with our work here too, with over half of those surveyed saying they are ‘somewhat satisfied’ or ‘extremely satisfied’ with their jobs.

We are also pleased with our work/life balance, being able to enjoy free time with family and friends, and taking part in leisure activities.

Overall, the study by online job site Bayt.com and YouGov, an independent research organisation, found that people living in the GCC have higher levels of satisfaction than the rest of the region.

Employment opportunities, or the lack of them, and the cost of living are the only troublesome areas.

The release of the study this week was perfectly timed as the country celebrated 43 years of Renaissance.

As birthdays go, it was quite a momentous one and the country didn’t let it pass by without recognising the importance of the occasion.

On Tuesday, the Sultanate came together as a proud nation in celebration of the 43 years since His Majesty Sultan Qaboos took on the leadership with promises of a better life and secure future for Omanis.

That day July 23, 1970 marked a new beginning for the country, as His Majesty launched a strategy of all-round social and economic development.

As part of the anniversary, His Majesty issued royal pardons for more than 200 prisoners, including all those convicted in riot cases, for causing public inconvenience, verbally insulting public servants and the manufacture, preparation and possession of explosives.

All the prisoners will be reinstated in their previous jobs in the public or private sector, it was also ordered.

This is in line with the Sultan’s view of punishment not being an end in itself but a deterrent to limit crime.

Huge funding for sports clubs was also announced with a RO1 million subsidy for each club in the country under the Ministry of Sports Affairs.

Around 43 clubs will be benefit from the cash injection.

The new funding for the clubs will be used to improve infrastructure and buy equipment or other requirements.

It was also revealed that 16 new government schools are being built and a further 44 are in the pipeline.

There were 514,667 students enrolled in public schools for this academic year with 255,996 female pupils. * Renaissance Day Review: Looking forward, looking back, see page 26

His Majetsy opens the new Majlis building in 2012

YOUR

NEWS

OMAN

Gallery

Interview

CAMERA, LIGHTS AND ACTION Bait Al Zubair unveils independent film festival Words: Kate Ginn and Joe Gill

T

Susan Sarandon attended the closing ceremony of Muscat International Film Festival last year

he country’s first independent film festival is to be held in Muscat at the end of October, it has been revealed.

Emerging young talent from the Sultanate will be harnessed to showcase the very best in film from directing to producing and acting.

Oman already has an annual international film festival, the 7th of which was held in March this year, but the smaller scale new event will focus on predominantly short films and will be run autonomously.

Named the Bait Al Zubair Film Festival, it will be partnered by Al Musafir Production, a leading production company specialising in art and film.

The Bait al Zubair Museum in Muscat will fund and host the sixday event. Al Musafir Production approached the museum about the project a while ago.

“Our platform is for those movies in the making, young directors, script writers, actors and producers who are up and coming,” said Abdullah al Busaidi, public relations manager at

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the museum. “We will be looking for local and regional talent.”

“Our mission is to promote the rich cultural heritage of the country and anything that will promote Oman from that perspective is something that we are happy to be involved with,” added al Busaidi.

Potential guests and judges, who will decide winners in different categories, are being decided. A well-known director from the GCC is among the possibilities and awards could also be given out to those who have contributed to the Middle East film industry.

While growing, Omani film output is still at the embryonic stage.

There is no film or drama school in the country, although there is a big underground movement with people using social media and other platforms to get their work out into the wider world.

Some 700 short films have been produced in the last eight years, or 80 to 100 each year, according to Khaled al Zadjali, a film director based in Muscat, who also established the Muscat International Film Festival (MIFF).

“There are no private film companies operating in Oman but there are small production companies, who receive commissions from Oman TV,” he said.

As the chairman of the Oman Film Society, al Zadjali is working to develop cinema and film production in Oman.

MIFF was the first festival of its kind in the Gulf when it started in 2001 but others, notably Dubai, have followed.

“The difference was that Dubai put a lot of money behind its festival, which has grown and grown,” al Zadjali said.

‘Their budget is much bigger – 100 times as big. I feel that when you do something you can make your country a pioneer, but other countries can steal that from you. Now it is Dubai and Qatar that are leading the way.”

Last year, al Zadjali brought four James Bond actors to the festival – all the old Bonds except Sean Connery and the current Bond, Daniel Craig – along with other guests from Hollywood and Bollywood.

JUL 25 - 31 / ISSUE 280

UAE

SAUDI ARABIA

QATAR

INDIA

PHARMACY EMERGENCY & AMBULANCE 2476 0123

I helpdesk@kimsoman.com I www.kimsoman.com

T

hese little dancers clearly enjoyed a chance to show off their moves to an appreciative audience.

They were taking part in the recent First Izki Festival organised by Al Ahli Sport Team for children and families.

Held over ten days, the festival combined traditional and modern games, along with a heritage village showcasing the best of Omani culture, artifacts and cuisine.

Plays and presentations took place on stage in a theatre area.

There was also an open market where local producers sold their handicrafts and produce.

The event, supported by Khimji Ramdas, was aimed at keeping young ones entertained during the summer break.

T H E W H AT ’ S O N G U I D E

July

Cool As Ice

Bait Al Zubair and Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah resort are hosting a commemorative event in memory of the late Sarah White next Thursday.

Artists’ work will be exhibited in honour of the pioneering artist and museum director of Bait Al Zubair Foundation, who died earlier this year. Starts 7pm.

Arabian Nights Head to The Chedi’s Arabian Courtyard tent where you can enjoy new lounge music by DJ AA, exclusively played during Ramadan. Guests can relax on colourful divans, gaze at the shimmering lanterns and enjoy traditional water pipes.

Aug

01

READ OF THE WEEK

THIS

WEEK U

What to see.

What to hear.

L

Y

July - August

J

What to do.

Philippa Gregory, the number one best-selling historical author, turns to Elizabeth of York, daughter of the White Queen, for her latest Tudor novel The White Princess.

When Henry Tudor wins the Battle of Bosworth, he knows he must marry the princess of the defeated house of York – Elizabeth – to heal a nation divided by war.

TENT CITY Iftar tents have sprung up around the city and are a great place to hang out with friends in the evening. One of the biggest is outside Muscat City Centre, offering buffet dinner, drinks and water pipes. Enjoy.

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Movies

Head down to the coolest hangout in town and meet one of the Freezing Omanis while you’re at it. Oman’s first chilled café is open for business again at the Shangri La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa. Waiting in the -5 degrees freezer will be Bader al Lawati, Antarctic explorer, who will regale you with tales over hot drinks. Brought to you

by Enhance Oman.

Doors open 7pm.

July

25

Food of Love The ‘Donate an Iftar Meal Box’ charitable campaign is in its second year, and you can be part of it. The discount website www.alatoolmuscat.com is working with some of Muscat’s best restaurants to provide the meals for labourers who work long hours in scorching heat without food and water. The charity initiative encourages followers and visitors to the website to donate an Iftar meal for as little as RO1.5. Just log on to www.alatoolmuscat. com and follow the instructions.

July - August

In Memory

Gallery

Al Khuwair

Al Azaiba

5

THIS WEEK

MOVIES MOVIES No One Lives

In Their Skin Needing to escape the pressures of city life after the tragic death of their daughter, a couple move to a remote rural cottage with their young son. Unfortunately, their hopes of recovering from the tragedy in tranquil isolation are dashed by the intrusion of the couple next door, played by James D’Arcy and Rachel Miner.

D’Arcy insidiously wends his way into their lives, initially by prizing an invitation to dinner from a reluctant Joshua Close.

At the meal, the guests ask a stream of very nosy questions, suggesting something untoward about all their creepy curiosity. Do they covet the Hughes’s apparently desirable lifestyle,

or is there more to it than that?

Tension and menace build as D’Arcy begins to act strangely, trying on – and keeping – Joshua’s glasses and then parading in front of the house with a shotgun.

It’s pretty clear the way things are headed as the tone switches from psychological drama to family-in-peril thriller. An increasingly deranged D’Arcy reveals his evil game plan of taking the place of the Hugheses.

The performances of Selma Blair and Close are what lift this home invasion story above the norm – although in the end, it is not quite terrifying or searching enough to break free of the formula.

Finding ever more gruesome ways to dismember the cast is apparently the only goal of this cheap exploitation flick. With news of a serial killer on the loose, a couple drive into town and choose the wrong steakhouse for dinner. A gang of local thugs spot the pair and kidnap them, unaware that Driver (Luke Evans) is not what he seems. Soon, the tables are turned and gruesome deaths await the gang. It’s an interesting twist, but the abysmal script and laughable acting make this more like an accidental horror comedy.

Texas Killing Fields Sam Worthington and Jessica Chastain star as two detectives investigating a series of teen murders in Texas City. As we follow the police on their way to identify a body of a woman found in the so-called ‘Killing Fields’ of the title – a local marsh – a sense of helplessness pervades.

A parallel narrative shows the lives of vulnerable teenager Little Anne, who could be the killer’s next victim.

Visually stylish procedural with a hit and miss script.

Bollywatch

PREVIEW

Clash Of Empires

In 120 AD, the Roman fleet sails from the coast of Arabia to a mysterious peninsula dividing two great empires. The Malay warrior Merong escorts a Roman prince to China to wed a beautiful Chinese princess, but they face many perils on the journey. An epic struggle follows between the fierce Malay pirates and the Roman and Chinese forces, led by our fearless Malay hero. It’s a United Nations cast of players speaking at least three languages – and heavily accented English.

Of course, what really matters is the action. The battles are energetic – although the pirates don’t seem to be able to fight their way out of a papyrus roll – and the so-so special effects hint at the limits of budget. It’s an honourable if slightly creaky effort at an historical epic, showing that the Malay film industry is not far off being able to take on the big boys. Released in Malaysia as ‘Hikayat Merong Mahawangsa’.

THIS WEEK’S MOVIES

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Bhaag Milkha Bhaag

A bio pic about the life of the so-called ‘Flying Sikh’, Milkha Singh, who achieved fame as a runner in the early 1960s. Singh’s backstory is gradually revealed as he struggles to overcome the emotional pain of his Punjabi family’s suffering during the Partition of India. Despite setbacks at the Melbourne Olympics of 1956 (he meets an Aussie girl the night before the race then flunks it), he is picked out by Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru to lead the Indian team in a contest in Pakistan. Strong direction and an outstanding performance from Farhan Akhtar as Milkha makes this a powerful, if occasionally flabby, story of triumph against the odds.

For more information and times, go to: City Cinema: citycinemaoman.net Al Bahja Cinema: albahjacinema.net Star Cinema: Tel +968 24791641

Having one baby can be hard work, so imagine having to manage two at once. Kate Ginn meets the Muscat Mums who are doing just that.

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here’s a crash of something falling, or rather being pushed, to the floor and Cherie Clark-Moore dashes into the sitting room with the weary air of someone who has seen and heard it all before.

It’s hard to know whom to grab first. Will she intercept daughter Zoe heading towards the fish tank or her daughter Mya who is chasing the pet cat Mr Blue around the floor?

When you have twin 16-month-old daughters you clearly need to have your wits about you. In the end, their mum goes for the double approach, grabbing one and then the other in swift succession, moving at speed before one can find an escape route.

In her arms, the pair of giggling blonde-haired and blue-eyed bundles are wriggling in impatience and already looking around for the next adventure.

“I absolutely love them to bits but it’s hard work,” admits Cherie.

“There is no let-up, they are full on all the time.”

As Zoe, the older by nine minutes, makes a bolt for freedom, she adds: “It’s actually much easier than when they were little.” Which makes you wonder what it must have been like when they were newborns, screaming at the same time for food and attention, needing constant nappy changes and bathing.

“I can’t remember too much about the early days to be honest,” smiles Cherie. “It’s all just a blur of sleepless nights and non-stop feeds.”

Becoming a parent for the first time is a mixture of excitement and apprehension.

When two are on the way, everything is doubled.

Twins provide a unique parenting challenge – twice the pleasure but also twice the pain, as they say.

It’s clear too that Zoe and Mya, though not identical, share a special bond and understanding, cuddling up together on the sofa to pose for the camera before scattering in different directions squealing in highpitched delight.

It’s just as well that the family has such a large and spacious home in Qurum to accommodate the girls’ explorations.

The girls were conceived after IVF and were born in Dubai at the final attempt, so they’re little miracles in more ways than one.

“I knew there was a change of having a multiple birth, so we were prepared, but it was still a shock when we saw them on the ultrasound,” says Cherie, 37, who is originally from Australia.

“Having one child is a huge change in your life but having two just turns it upside down. I can’t image life without the girls now but I admit that it took me a long time to adjust. I found it more difficult than my husband.”

She couldn’t cope without her angels Pathma and Monica, staff who help out with the girls and the running of the home.

So, how does it work practically, with things like feeding?

“I try to feed them both at the same time,” she says. “The same with sleeping – they both go to bed at the same time.

“The first six months were terrible because they suffered from acid reflux and only slept for 45 minutes at a time. They were in pain and crying and I didn’t know what was wrong.

“If I’m on my own and they are both screaming, I just have to go to the one that I think needs me the most first. Zoe is more demanding and needy. Their different personalities are starting to come out now.

“And everything takes so long. Getting ready to go out is like a military operation, getting the girls fed, dressed and all the stuff you have to take with you. When you get invited out, you gauge whether it’s worth all the hassle to go.”

Fiona Loader with her two sets of twins

Twins Saif and Zach with their mum Dina

Cherie gets to grips with Zoe and Mya

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Setting up the Muscat Multiples support group in March helped. It brings together mums with twins or more (there is one set of triplets) to share their stories. and currently has around 26 members.

Just then the door rings and into the mayhem walks Dina al Khalili clutching her 18-months-old twins, Saif and Zach. The adorable darkhaired little boys had a tough start in life.

Before the twins, Dina suffered a late miscarriage and then the twins arrived prematurely at 26 weeks after an emergency Caesarian section at The Royal Hospital in Muscat.

The babies were taken straight to the Special Care Baby Unit (SCBU) with Saif weighing 800g (1.7lbs) and Zach, the second born, just 760g.

Putting that into perspective, the average weight of a healthy newborn baby is 7.5lbs.

She can’t praise the staff at The Royal and SCBU enough.

It was three months before Dina and her husband could take Saif home.

Zach spent a further two months in hospital.

“They are very special children,” she says, holding them close. “It is like God compensated us for the loss for our first baby.”

For eight weeks, she had to get used to being a new mum while travelling daily to the hospital to see Zach. “You just go into auto-pilot, you don’t stop to think what is actually going on.

“I live with my in-laws and they are there to help me if I need it, but I do everything most of the time. I feed them and bath them on my own.

“It can be very tiring and “It hasn’t been as bad as I stressful, but you just have to expected. People ask, is it hard get on with it,” says Fiona, as having twins – but they are my Zoe comes up demanding the first so I don’t know any different. cartoon is repeated.

“The boys get equal attention.

“I’m an only child, so I was Saif is very hyperactive and Zach never around kids very much. is a bit behind – he can’t walk or “The second time around, sit up yet, but he’s having I was thinking that we would physiotherapy and doing well. have a singleton, so when they “Sometimes I do dress them in saw two heartbeats again, I just the same outfits, it’s cute, but you burst into tears. ” always have to be aware that they Of course, Fiona and her ❖ Twins can either be monozygotic (identical), meaning that they develop from are individuals.” one egg that splits and forms two embryos, or dizygotic (fraternal) meaning that husband John wouldn’t give up These pitfalls are something they develop from two eggs, each fertilized by separate sperm cells. their brood for the world, but Fiona Loader knows only too well. ❖ As of 2011, it was estimated there were approximately 125 million twins in the emotional and financial toll Over in Azaiba, her home is ringthe world. can be a strain. ing with a cacophony of children’s ❖ The world’s highest rates of twinning are found across Central Africa, where “It’s getting easier as they get they are 18-30 sets of twins per 1,000 live births. shouts from her two sets of twins. ❖ The Yoruba, an ethnic group in West Africa, have the highest rate of twinning older, but it can still be In one room watching cartoons in the world, at 45-50 twin sets per 1,000 live births.

It is believed it could all be exhausting” says Fiona, who are the girls, Zoe and Naomi, aged down to eating a specific type of yam, which stimulates the ovaries. had a high-flying career in three and identical, and in another ❖ China has the lowest rates of twin births in the world, with around 6-9 twins Sydney as an accountant. are Edward and Robert, aged per 1,000 live births.

“You need to get into a ❖ Conjoined twins (as known as Siamese twins) are identical twins joined six-and-half. together, often sharing organs and limbs. routine very quickly. It’s the Both sets were born using IVF, ❖ Famous twins include Ashton Kutcher (fraternal twin brother Michael), Justin logistics of getting through the a technique which, until recently, Timberlake (twin sister Laura) and Scarlett Johansson (twin brother Hunter). day, getting them all dressed meant there was one in four and breakfasted and then the chance of having twins. school runs.

“The children get on, the boys fight sometimes of course, and they are starting to develop their own characters, so you have to treat them accordingly.”

Her husband John chips in: “The most rewarding time is when they are playing together nicely, all siblings together, or the girls give each other a hug and do things as a set of twins.”

Fiona says she couldn’t do it without her lifeline, Frieda, who helps out in the house and keeps things running smoothly when chaos threatens to erupt all around.

“I wouldn’t be without the kids,’ says Fiona. “But would we have gone again if we knew it was going to be twins? No, probably not.”

Back in Qurum, Cherie is trying to get the girls ready for dinner as Zoe throws a temper tantrum.

“I’m just thinking about what it will be like when they’re teenagers,” she laughs.

“Two girls stomping around with teenage hormones and slamming doors. Can you imagine?”

TWIN FACTS

* Muscat Multiples can be contacted through the Facebook group Muscat Multiples - or by emailing Cherie at multiples@muscatmums.com.

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Images: Rebecca Mayston

Carpets

Rebecca Mayston meets the mat makers of Oman who weave their trade in a stunning mountain setting

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rouched over his work, an intense look of concentration comes across Bader bin Saif al Abri’s face. His eyes flicker back and forth keeping track of the spinning yarns flashing like a colourful whirlwind in front of him.

By the time he’s finished his labour of love in a few weeks, his efforts could be adorning the floors of homes across the Sultanate and beyond. Tourists travel from afar to buy one of his famous carpets, created in the shadow of Jebel Shams in an area renowed for its wonderful woven products.

Badr comes from a family steeped in the history and traditions of wool carpet production. Home is Nakhar Village. Nestled in the base of the Grand Canyon of Arabia, it’s one of the originating homes of the Jebel Carpets.

The magnificence of the mountains around is truly breathtaking.

As you raise your eyes higher and higher, you begin to appreciate the sheer size of the mountain walls towering around you. Initially all is silence, until you stop and listen, and hear it – the gurgle of water in the falaj, the soft whispers of the wind through the trees, and the distant calls of children and sheep in the valley.

Weaving dates back many centuries. Techniques modified and diversified over time, along with the creativity of varying fibres and colours, have developed a variety of weaving production methods seen worldwide today. In Oman, the weaving takes places both in the Jebels (mountain ranges) and the desert regions, and is fostered by a handful of families with skills passed down through the years.

Bader al Abri is excited to have a group showing interest in the weaving, which has been the livelihood for his family for many generations.

“I was taught by my father, who was taught by his father, and it will continue to be passed down through the generations,” he says, adding that one day he will teach his own children.

Nakhar village is at the end of Wadi Nahkar, lovingly referred to by some as Carpet Wadi, but popularly known as the Grand Canyon of Arabia. Nowadays, the majority of the al Abri family spend the week living in their second home in nearby Al Hamra, returning to the wadi only at weekends.

During heavy rains, the road into the wadi is flooded, forcing the family to rely on the original means of transport – walking or travelling by donkey.

The al Abri family is well known in the region for their carpet making. They participate in the entire production process, from raising the sheep and shearing the animals to weaving the carpet, which could eventually end up on your floor.

The family, Bader proudly states, has 50 sheep of their own, providing a substantial supply of wool. To meet demand, more wool is bought from other Jebel families.

Once they have the wool, the process of washing, dyeing, and spinning begins, followed by the weaving.

A variety of colours naturally appear in the wool, with tones from rich blacks to charcoal greys, dusty browns and varying shades of cream and white, creating a diverse palette to work with.

To create the orange and red colours required for the traditional Omani carpets, the cream fibres are coloured with naturally created dyes, obtained from villages high in the mountains.

The wool is boiled with the dye for hours to ensure a firmly fixed, vibrant colour. Some of the modern carpets on display with bright pinks and blues have been created using a combination of pur-

chased yarn and natural fibres with artificial dye from Badiyah.

With all the al Abris involved, it’s a 100 per cent family-owned and operated Omani business. The women work with the wool, dying and spinning it to create the yarns.

The men are the weavers, mainly because of their strength, which is required to get a tightly woven carpet. Stretched out across the yard of the home, the loom is bolted into the walls or to a vehicle.

Bader’s family have space for two looms to operate at the same time. Four to five days of weaving is required for each carpet, with the weaver perched on the wooden plank, pulling – with substantial force – the yarns into place.

From start to finish, wool to carpet, the process takes five to six weeks. It’s labour intensive work but rewarding, as satisfied customers head home with an authentic, 100 per cent Omani handicraft product.

Bader al Abri and his family hope to be bringing smiles to the faces of their customers for generations to come.

Rebecca Mayston works for The Guide Oman. To find out more you can follow them on www.facebook.com/TheGuideOman

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Feeding The 500

At the weekend, hundreds gathered together in Hamriyah to celebrate breaking fast at a mass Iftar. Jerzy Wierzbicki went there to capture the scene using black and white film

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s dusk began to fall and the call to prayer rang out across the city, the backstreets of Hamriyah in Muscat came alive. The sounds of people talking around a dinner table and the clatter of eating began to resonate off the thick stone walls.

Walking around, I saw rooms full of people taking Iftar together, eating in the one room where they usually sleep all crammed in together, pillows pushed to one side for the spread of water, dates and Labneh.

Other sat cross-legged on the street with blankets spread on the ground. Hundreds of Bangladeshi men had come together to mark the moment of thankfulness for the food they were about to eat.

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I have photographed Hamriyah constantly since 2010. It is a place that enchants me, drawing me in with its atmosphere, gritty reality and a sense of community despite the difficult circumstances of many residents.

During the day, it’s a ghost town with deserted streets. But at night and weekends, it comes alive and into its own with people spilling out onto the streets.

For me, it lends itself to using traditional black and white film to capture the grainy images and starkness of the place, the feelings of sadness and hope on the men’s faces.

As I left that night, I knew I would return again soon.

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Renaissance reboot

Y salutes the achievements of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos and looks ahead to further incredible developments in Oman

His Majesty Sultan Qaboos

I

All images: Oman News Agency

t is sometimes difficult to comprehend the breathtaking changes Oman has seen in the 43 years since the beginning of the Blessed Renaissance under the leadership of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos.

Unprecedented economic and social development has seen the country leap from a pre-industrial society to a modern economy in just two g.enerations. The principles of peace, security, stability and welfare have guided His Majesty’s development vision.

Massive investment in education, transport, health, social welfare and housing have seen living standards for nationals and residents rise inexorably, Judicial reforms, the introduction of an elected consultative assembly and the 2012 municipal council elections show the advancement of political representation and civil rights under a system of monarchy.

But as the images on this page convey, there are more dramatic economic and social developments to come as Oman diversifies away from an energy-based economy.

As the Duqm special economic zone and port becomes a hub for maritime trade, Qaboos Port will undergo a transformation into a world-class tourism and residential complex.

Meanwhile a new highway will enable faster and easier access to the Musandam peninsula by road.

The new Muscat airport will radically expand the tourism capacity of the country and welcome visitors to one of the most advanced airports in the region.

His Majesty’s remarkable reign promises many more transformational changes to come.

Oman handicrafts

Artist’s impression of Muscat’s new marina

How the redeveloped Qaboos Port will look

A view of Muscat in 1969. Courtesy of J.E. Peterson

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Duqm’s new port

food and drink

TREND New Restaurant

News

MINE’s A MISHKAK

The waft of smoke pours off the coals and the meat hisses, as men hang around waiting until the mishkak is just right. It’s a favourite traditional snack served on the highways and in carparks around Oman. Nothing beats the taste of freshly charcoaled lamb to savour under the stars.

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FOOD AND DRINK

T rend

New Restaurant

Reviews

IFTAR ON THE MOVE

Breaking fast on the beach, park and streets

O

Images: Jerzy Wierzbicki and Joe Gill

n rugs spread on the beach, in parks or simply by the side of the road, having Iftar al fresco seems to be much in favour.

With the noticeably cooler weather this Ramadan, it would appear people are taking advantage to move outside from homes and restaurants and into the streets.

As the call to prayer rings out, families and friends gather on Seeb beach while parks are also popular Iftar spots.

One family with young children were even spotted on the side of a roundabout in Ghala with a rug spread out enjoying Iftar, stopping their car where they were rather than wait to reaching home.

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TREND New Restaurant

News

Ground Level, Muscat Grand Mall +968 2 2009551 JUL 25 - 31 / ISSUE 280

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food and drink

I F T A R review N e w R e s t a u r a n t Info Box

Mumtaz Mahal Oman Address: Building No.80, Way 2601, Complex 226, Qurum, Muscat Phone number: 24605907/24605979 Email: contact@mumtazmahal.net Website: www.mumtazmahal.net Opening Hours: Iftar until 9pm on all Ramadan days Price: (Iftar for three with soft drinks) RO33 (with taxes) Iftar RO9.5 (plus taxes) per person

Mid-top

BOMBAY DREAMS B

Marvellous Mumtaz Mahal feeds the body and soul in the second of our Iftar reviews, says Kate Ginn

eing frequently described as one of the best Indian restaurants in Muscat is a mantle that could be a burden or a blessing. As it’s also named after the Mughal Empress whose death prompted her grief-stricken husband to build the stunning Taj Mahal in her memory, Mumtaz Mahal certainly has a lot to live up to.

The evening gets off to a promising start.

Just before the Maghrib prayer, I stand outside looking at the view, for which Mumtaz Mahal is almost as famous as its food. It is indeed spectacular, sweeping across Qurum Natural Park, the beach and out towards the sea, all bathed in the pink of a setting sun.

As the azan rang out, my two friends and I shared some simple dates and water – as two of us had been fasting for the day as a feature. From outside, the Mumtaz beckoned us in with the clink of cutlery and soft lighting.

You have to be quick to capture this Iftar offer, as it ends at 9pm, so without much further ado we got stuck in. It’s a buffet set out in a long curving line, so you simply work your way from one end to the other, stopping at different stations from starters to pudding.

It’s predominantly Northern Indian Mughlai cuisine, although the odd Arabic and Omani dish made its way onto the tables.

With empty stomachs and eyes trying to take in the amount of food on display, we kicked off proceedings with soup and little helpings of appetizers.

My clear chicken choice was light and rich with surprisingly intense flavour, while the broccoli soup was fresh and lively. All the bite-sized sides, including mishkak, samosas and country-style chicken, were polished off with appreciative nods of the head.

It’s a large restaurant to fill – since the inside water feature was removed – and at any other times of the year, is usually bustling. So it was unexpected to see and hear it so it quiet, with only a few other tables of diners and the

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News

live Indian Classical Band silenced for the holy month.

The canopied terrace outside, lovely for the cooler months, was occupied by only one brave party.

1 0 Scrumm It would have helped the ambience if it had been y great serv food, ice and a little fuller. Not that it detracted from the intimate views atmosphere, with its low lighting, elegant Mughal era décor and artwork. I wonder what Empress Mumtaz Mahal and her husband, the Emperor Shah Jahan, would have made of it all.

I’m sure they would have approved of the attentive but unobtrusive waiting staff, appearing at just the right time to top up water or offer a word of culinary advice.

Mains were a good choice of curries, from Goan Prawn Curry, Lamb Masala to the reliable Chicken Korma and vegetarian option, Paneer (a soft, white cheese), along with a Dal. The lamb, fish and chicken were excellent, spices zinging around the mouth, mopped up with freshly cooked Naan bread, but my colleague was disappointed with the Goan Prawn, pronouncing the sauce as not dissimilar to tomato soup.

We managed to squeeze down pudding, sharing all four Indian and Arabic desserts on offer for purposes of being fair (well, that’s our excuse anyway).

Our favourites were Gulab Jamun, deep fried spongy balls made of rose-scented dough, and the heavenly Omani dish, Anjeer ka Halwa, with dried figs and sugar.

The Umm Ali, a milk-soaked pastry from Egypt, was also good, but we weren’t so keen on Shahi Tukda, little discs of bread soaked in what looked like bright yellow milk with the texture of baby food.

Arabic coffee and a stroll out onto the terrace to take in the night view rounded off the evening nicely.

Mumtaz Mahal’s memorial, the Taj Mahal, is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. The Mumtaz Mahal restaurant can probably claim to be a little wonder, albeit on a smaller scale, of its own.

VERDICT

8

:

HEALTH& BEAUTY

Health

Beauty

SUSTAINABLE STYLE

FASHION

Did you know that at least 8,000 chemicals are used to turn raw materials into textiles and more than a quarter of the world’s pesticides are used to grow nonorganic cotton? No, neither did we. That’s why ‘slow clothes’, created with more considerate manufacturing and consumption, is the cooler way to go.

This Ramadan consider buying Fair Trade goods. Not only do they reduce poverty but they also encourage sustainability in poorer nations that suffer from low pay and the denial of basic rights because large companies take advantage of cheap labour. Our favourite Fair Trade labels include the People Tree and Made.

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Model is wearing a scarf from F&F

GREEN & GLAM

This Kiki de Montparnasse Graphic Collection organic cotton T-shirt oozes cool.

Available from RO45 from Net-A-Porter.com

The fashion industry has finally caught the eco bug and Penny Fray’s determined to heal the world whilst helping her wardrobe this Ramadan.

I

love shopping, and since green became the new black I have been rigorously exercising my credentials as an eco-conscious consumer. Of course, I’m under no illusion that buying a new pair of Stella McCartney’s vegan shoes is going to save the polar bears but it’ll certainly boost my style status – after all, everyone who is anyone is now dressing more ethically, including Scarlett Johansson in her ozone friendly jeans.

Besides, more and more designers and high-street brands are currently creating fashion with a clear conscience – from Gucci teaming up with Livia Firth to design a new ecologically traceable bag, to Missoni slippers helping children living on rubbish dumps. Fashion has come a long way since the days of horrid hemp shirts and homemade beanies.

But it’s not just the high-end fashion houses that are polishing their halos – H&M is currently ranked among the top green companies in the retail sector. Apart from launching its highly successful conscious collection a few years ago, the high street store aims to have all its cotton originating from sustainable sources by 2020. Meanwhile, fair trade pioneers the People Tree are upping their cachet with cool collections from the likes of Orla Kiely.

This is all well and good but let’s be honest here – we must massively reduce our rate of consumption if we’re going to save the planet. Being truly green doesn’t mean buying yet another organic bag but using the one you already have stuffed in the back of the wardrobe. It’s about breaking free from an instinctive cycle of accumulation and investing in things that you truly love.

Think of it as one small step for your wardrobe and one giant leap for fashion-kind.

Silk blouse from H&M’s conscious range. From RO35

We agree with Livia Firth’s choice of renewable jewellery from RO35 at Yoox.com

This leather shopper from Beaumont Organic is lined with organic cotton

Faux leather ballet flats by Stella McCartney. RO127

How cute is this Orla Kiely dress from the People Tree?

From RO80

Eco Elegance: PENNY’S GUIDE TO DRESSING GREENER 1 High-end designer lines like Stella McCartney and Edun support sustainable fashion. There are so many really cool ecofriendly brands out there, it’s worth doing an Internet search to learn more about them. 2 Buy organic fabrics which don’t use pesticides and chemicals. They’re not only good for the environment but your skin too. 3 Save money and the planet by buying vintage clothes or simply throwing a swishing (clothes swap) party.

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HEALTH& BEAUTY

BEAUTY

HEALTH

Fashion

BROW BEATEN Like it or loathe it, the busy look above the eyes is here to stay

T

Words: Kate Ginn

hick, long and bushy, it’s here to stay or so it would appear, on face value anyway.

We’re talking about the monobrow, sometimes known as the unibrow, a continuous line of hair stretching between the eyes which has long divided opinion on its merit.

It’s even had the Hollywood approval with various celebrities, at some time or another, sporting abundant connected hair between the eyebrows, admittedly mostly men.

These include the actor Brad Pitt (in his early days), Colin Farrell, Nicolas Cage and Josh Harnett.

Madonna’s daughter, Lourdes (pictured), was another famous unibrow notable, until she discovered a good wax.

Handled well, it can even prove an asset. The Mexican artist Frida Kahlo made a feature of her remarkable black monobrow through her unflinching self-portraits, making it as memorable as her art.

One proud man with a monobrow has ingeniously taken it a step further. American basketball player Anthony Davis, who is turns out for the New Orleans Hornets, is so well known for his signature joinedup eyebrow that he has even trademarked the phrases ‘Fear the Brown’ and ‘Raise the Brow’.

“Me and my family decided to trademark it because it’s very unique,” Davis said earlier this year.

In some cultures, such as Tajikistan, the unibrow is viewed as an attractive quality in men and a sign of feminine beauty in women.

If you live in Sri Lanka, where long brows are considered beautiful, you’d be painting one on with a kohl liner or kajal pencil if you were not lucky enough to be blessed with it naturally.

Omani women are not traditionally allowed to shape their eyebrows until they are married. So a monobrow could be a sign that the lady in question is still single.

For others, a ‘mono’ would call for some quick work with the tweezers or visit to the salon for urgent waxing and threading.

“It is certainly not a fashion trend in Oman as far as we are concerned,” says Myrna B Moro, who works at the Tips & Toes nail and beauty spa in Muscat Grand Mall.

“We do get some Omani ladies with this monobrow who come to the salon but not to have it removed, they are usually here for a pedicure or manicure.

“We certainly do not get anyone coming in asking us to have the look.”

Believe it or not, there is even a medical term for a monobrow; it’s called Synophrys, which does not trip easily off the tongue.

Aesthetically pleasing or not, the monobrow’s place in beauty history is assured whether we like it or not.

Matthew Herbst had to thread his monobrow to keep his girlfriend happy I have a bit of a mono. It was quite big a few years ago when I lived in Jordan. My then girlfriend spent every weekend at the salon and she used to pester me to get it threaded. It was very difficult to get an appointment because everyone was threading – men and women. Every other place that I went to would make my brow extremely sculpted and feminine. I looked permanently surprised. There was only one beautician who could do it without making me look like a girl. She actually listened to me when I asked her not to take too much of my brow off.

Threading is painful – it was like shaving the top of my eyes with glass. My eyes watered so much and afterwards, the skin burned for ages. I walked out in shades because by the time I got home I had red patches and it really itched. I stopped doing it eventually but my girlfriend would always mention it. I managed to keep postponing it until she gave up. I couldn’t face going because it was too painful.

In the end I bought a pair of tweezers and pluck the worst of it so she would leave me be. Nowadays I leave it alone. I don’t particularly like my mono but threading just isn’t worth the agony.

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H ealth

Revenge of the Red Top

BEAUTY

Fashion

The slick back is back – and so is colour. Joe Gill goes Hawaiian at the stylists as we look at the trend in men’s hair for 2013

I

t’s not necessarily the trendiest hairstyle but the Hawaii Five O was what I got.

My Tunisian stylist at Blade luxury barbers in Azaiba was looking for guidance from me on how to tame my mop. Unfortunately my French is feeble these days, so we needed a visual aid.

The TV was on and I pointed to the actor playing Steve McGarrett on the American cop show. It was nothing out of the ordinary, just a short back and sides with a bit of a Tintin tuft. If we were watching the original ’70s series, I could have ended up with a swept-over quiff like Jack Lord, the McGarrett of my youth.

According to AJ, a stylist of ten years from the Philippines working at Blade, the face must fit the cut. “A hairstyle should be fitted to the face of the person. At the same time, colour should be applied depending on skin tone.”

AJ and my stylist sported red highlights, which works well for men with black or brown hair.

“Here in Oman very few local people ask for colour,” says AJ. “A few of the younger ones opt for lighter colours, but mostly it is older men who want brown or black.”

There are, of course, many hairstyles to choose from. You might want to go slick back, funky, classic, layered or rough cut. Versions of the American crew are never really out of fashion.

Apparently slick-back has made a comeback. With closely clipped sides and a lot of length on the crown swept up on top, it’s the opposite of cheesy.

A style called ‘bangs’ sees the hair kept short but with enough untamed length at the front so it can be swept across the face. Its cousin, the ‘Bigbang’, has bold, medium-length spikes on top, usually tinted, with a short crop on the back and sides.

Now, truth be told, you won’t see too many of these latest trends around Muscat.

A lot of the action in Oman is actually around styling of facial hair, especially beards.

“When it comes to hair styles, Omanis in particular come for shaving and cutting or styling the beards,” explains AJ. “Some have steps or fading under the chin.

“Mostly the young ones will go for more fashionable hairstyles. They bring in a sample for the stylist to follow from magazines or on their mobile phones.

“With customers, we sometimes suggest a colour, but most clients here go for a normal haircut. Maybe most people are not so fashionable.”

He might be talking about me. I haven’t done anything adventurous with my hair for a long while. On a fortysomething dad it might look like I was having a mid-life crisis.

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GALLERY

Gymkhana Nights

Photographed by: Jerzy Wierzbicki and Mulham al Rawahi

drivers compete in the stunt racing sport at the oaa every saturday during ramadan

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My Hood

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Bark of Life

The resin from the frankincense trees in the Dhofar highlands has been the source of wealth for millennia.

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CARS AND OUTDOORS

Destination

Wadi

Dawkah

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The mountains of Dhofar are home to a UNESCO-listed park of frankincense trees. Jerzy Wierzbicki visits the place where the ancient incense grows

travel guide

F

rankincense is one of the symbols of Oman, and Dhofar is where you must go to find the Boswellia sacra, or frankincense tree.

The governate, an independent sultanate until the 19th century, was once the centre of a thriving trade global in the resin, stretching as far as China.

Today it is home to one of Oman’s UNESCO-listed sites, Wadi Dawkah, and this was my destination to take photographs of its famous trees.

The wadi is located less than a kilometre from the main road to Salalah, where the trees grow in a wide, stoney valley.

The car park is at the top of the wadi where I met a Pakistani guy called Tariq. He invited me to walk with him down to the park.

The biggest trees in the park are, not surprisingly, found in the oldest part of the park, which we reached first of all.

Although this is the Khareef season, the high altitude of the park puts it above the low-lying clouds that bring rain to this part of Oman during the summer.

On the day of my visit it was actually very hot, leavened slightly by the strong winds that blew from the mountains.

There were a few fat clouds on the horizon in an otherwise clear sky. These elements, along with the trees, created optimum conditions for taking good photographs.

Tariq knew the park well and showed me the largest trees that could be found.

I brought only one camera with two fixed lenses – an ultra wide-angle lens and short telephoto.

As we moved down the wadi, the colours became more vivid.

The small, fresh green leaves covered the trees, which are contorted into strange shapes by the wind, twisted and leaning as if caught in a perpetual gale.

The scaly bark of the trees is gashed by many wounds from where the resin leaks out and freezes in the wind.

This solidified resin with an intense natural smell is frankincense, one of the treasures of Oman.

Among the trees I saw a family of camels. Tariq said that camels are very important in the collecting of resin as they chew the bark and in this way the tree produces incense.

I left, thanking Tariq, knowing why this is one of the places you simply have to visit if you come to Dhofar.

A 4x4 is not essential to visit Wadi Dawkah, although it’s better to go to Dhofar in a 4x4 for ease of travel. The park is located just 45km from Salalah on the road from Thumrait to Salalah.

The GPS location: N17’20’25” E54’04’33” JUL 25 – 31 / ISSUE 280

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MMyy HHoooodd

CCaarrss

OUTDOORS INDOORS WWi i- -FFi i OUTDOORS

Objects Of Love A

The Eid shopping rush will soon be upon us. Members of the Y team take to the shops in search of something special.

fter a month of fasting, there is nothing like celebrating Eid al Fitr with a bit of shopping. Clothes stores, tailors and perfumeries generally do a roaring trade at this time of year, while jewellery and henna shops can also expect a rush of business.

Before the pre-Eid shopping rush begins in earnest, Team Y decided to venture out into the malls and look for special gifts for loved ones and, perhaps, themselves. This is what they found.

Joe Gill, page editor Witch costume Early Learning Centre, Muscat City Centre: RO15.9

Kate Ginn, sections editor Lucky Cat and Japanese Wooden Doll, Daiso Japan, Muscat Grand Mall 700 baisa each

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complete nd isn’t A weeke t a trip to the Mall. ithou for me w Muscat Grand let , in op you Daiso sh itiated among ky and nin wac u e e th th r to o is F aiso. Th duce you me intro l world that is Dm Japan o wonderfuet originating fr aholics p little outl tail gold for sho costs only e g r e in r u th y p r e is ram get as ev you to c on a bud each, allowing feeling too a t 700 bais et high withou nging stock k a your bas he constantly ch shing floats fi T m t. o il fr u g ast – s to cool much say the le ardening glove en. Let’s to c ti c g le etwe and is ec else in b ponges, ch – as to bath s with everything Hello Kitty kits oose h , e gadgets at if you ador ce. I couldn’t c Cat, th la y p y k a r c s u u t o L s y e ju to en in On en this is I do – th the ceramic Sev ed left paw said is n a e ting r e c s a r it tt h betw a it e ht on love, w aiso), which I eople and the rig end more in D e p th p s h n it to o r k w e c , e tt ll b the be ese do ld be perfect n ll a (a p y Ja e n n de ou mo . Both w cute woo e in and the a geisha about it is wife who liv to h f it d o n is a v r y e touch m th f pan my bro d me o gifts for d would remin , they sum up Ja still e n t a e m y o o y n T r k . e 0 To and mod t. ck in 200 there ba try: fun, quirky alues of the pas v n l u a o n io it as a c d a g the tr retainin

ng other than ng for anythi e. Malls make pi op sh at I tend to look a form of mild tortur ly like are ls as real bare essentia he only kind of shops I sional men’s me edgy. T usic shops and the occa opping like t sh m bookshops, rium. Otherwise, I trea e object, pay th po te em ca n lo , io in y t fash eration – ge opping for m a military opn this occasion, I was sh e – which is O wif s and get out. nlike shopping for my – the chance daughter. U cond-guess the Sphinx e quite high. se ar e like trying to ul purchase for Amali you know th of a successf with a three-year-old is from your rive ing The great th d happiness she will de istake and she pleasure an , you could make a m antly forget it st se gift. Of cour look it over, and then in immediately. , it e up it us to ck t ’s wan will pi ’s stores – it a hit, she’ll exists. If it’s through a few children Muscat City d at se e I brow ere ar how many th ther it’s toys remarkable e spoilt for choice whe us, kids all ar Centre. You ith Qaranqashow upon ocking on kn or clothes. W ill be dressing up and . Eid is a ts w over Oman doors demanding swee tfits for their neighbours’ r mums to find new ou completed e fo just popular tim y of whom will have terners, it’s a an es w m , r en Fo childr sting. amadan of fa their first R close fit for Halloween. natty looking bed for a g tre. Dressin mind, I plum With this in om Early Learning Cen ren seem to Child ume fr witch’s cost a favourite with kids. allowed, Amali up is always anent fantasy world – if Well, now she y. live in a perma pink princess every da ls from dawn el as sp ic ve li ag ld m r in wou ch, casting he ll she is next can be a wit y, I’ll have to wait to ti verdict. al dl ci fi Sa . of the till dusk mum to get Oman with

Matthew Herbst, Art Director Return ticket to London, British Airways: RO236 Cup and saucer set, Homecentre, Muscat City Centre, RO2.5

Jerzy Wierzbicki, Photographer Ilford Black & White camera film EBay RO2.3-RO2.7

The perfect gift for friends and family collectively I think, is a surprise visit. So it was that I decided to head back to the UK for a one-week trip without telling anyone.

Now I had the plan, I just needed to book the flights. Easier said than done with several airlines offering different routes. A quick trawl of the web and I was booked on BA direct to London. I can’t wait to see my friends’ faces when I touch down and turn up at their door. That’s the pleasure of giving - seeing the reaction from your loved ones. I hope they will be very happy with their present this time.

Buying for myself, however, is another matter.

I’m quite a homebody and love nothing more than to read news online while having a coffee. I have been rather attached to my travel mug for some time now, whether at home or the office.

In fact it goes everywhere with me. While doing the Eid shopping walk around Muscat City Mall I stumbled upon a set of four large and gorgeous cups and saucers from Homecentre. To be honest, I prefer a man-sized coffee and find a cup too small for my liking. But a man can change his mind and this deal seemed too good to miss.

Quite a bargain, in fact.

This domestic gesture does suggest though that I getting ready for the big haul here. I suppose this means I have officially become a long-term resident of Muscat.

Most of the best photographs in history have been taken using the traditional, silvergrain black and white film. Historically, photography is an art form using the basic tools of just film and paper. Now with the arrival of the digital era and people carrying a smartphone or device with a camera, it’s become easier to take images and for anyone to think they’re a ‘photographer’. However, traditional photography requires some discipline. For a start, when you load a roll of film into your camera, you only have 36 frames. You can’t delete a bad photo. You have to get it right first time. To do this, you have to focus more attention on the object to be photographed and not use a camera as just a machine to capture pictures. To me, this is real photography. You can’t rely on the huge memory space of your digital camera. You have to get the shot right, there, in that moment or lose it forever. All the images that I took for the feature on the mass Iftar in Hamriyah this week were done with my analogue Nikon and high-speed Kodak and Ilford films. After the photo shoot, I developed the films myself at home, where I have a small darkroom and basic equipment. So this little box of film, which some people may see as old-fashioned, to me captures the very essence of being a photographer.

P.S. Unfortunately our editor Penny is away and missed out on the shopping. But we’ve bought her favourite, a bar of chocolate (sssh, don’t tell her, we’ve eaten half already).

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CARS AND

INDOORS

Cars

Wi-Fi

Abdullah al Busaidi, public relations manager at Bait Al Zubair Museum, recommends:

South Africa

Greetings from South Africa, the vast and beautiful rainbow nation that won my heart the first time I visited. What is striking is the diversity of people in terms of their background – African, European and Asian, even Arab. The family who hosted me in Cape Town were Yemeni. This mix is reflected in the incredible range of cuisine you can eat here. Another thing, this country is huge. Getting from Bloemfontein to Cape Town is like driving from Muscat to Salalah and a little further. Thankfully, the scenery is spectacular. While you might think of southern Africa as savannah or scrub, it’s actually very green in parts. You can find every kind of terrain from mountains to desert to rainforest.

My Favourite Place:

Cape Town. It’s a beautiful city. Unfortunately, I was very sick when I arrived – the winter weather had got to me and I had a cold. Still, I had an amazing time there. Table Mountain, a UNESCO world heritage site, was an unforgettable experience.

For Muslims, the city is full of halal restaurants as most of the Muslims in South Africa live here. Of all the great food I ate, Cape Town reminded me most of what I eat at home because of the historic connections with Malaysia and India. The people here are relaxed and fun to hang out with.

Highlights:

Constantia, a historic Dutch suburb of Cape Town, had many lovely restaurants and a museum. Favourites included the Biesmiellah Restaurant, nestled between the quaint, colourful Bo-Kaap houses, where you can sample authentic Cape Malay cuisine, and the Wembley Road House in Belgravia, one of the last authentic roadhouses in South Africa.

From Cape Town, we headed to Knysna, taking in the scenic garden route. The breathtaking Knysna Heads, the entrance to a lagoon from the Indian Ocean, is an excellent place to relax and enjoy Mother Nature. Oudtshoorn, a small town in rural Western Cape, is famous for its Cango Caves and ostrich farms and well worth a visit. Another must-see is Kimberley’s fascinating mining museum, which is actually a whole mining village built around the original mine. If you’re on the road you have to try Steers, which is a burger chain that you can find at gas stations. It’s like McDonalds, but better.

Lowlights: I went in August, which is actually winter in South Africa, and a lot colder than I’m

used to. It’s not necessarily the best time to visit, but I still had a brilliant holiday. The price of fuel in South Africa will really hit you. To fill a 1.3-litre car costs around RO25. Ouch!

Souvenirs: OJohannesburg is a busy, fast city with over 12 million people, overlooked by eye-catching golden hills. It has a couple of great shopping malls, Rosebank and Sandton Malls. My favourite was Rosebank, with its arched glass roof and futuristic architecture.

Just around the corner is the best find of all, a fabulous flea market. You can spend the whole day there. I was able to get all 1. Capetown my presents for family and colleagues.

Top 5 Places To Visit:

Where To Stay:

My friend’s family hosted me during my visit so I didn’t stay in any hotels. I enjoyed a night in a self-catering cottage in Claremont, Cape Town (Sylvia’s Cottage, RO15 a night only) and also a family-run chalet-style farm in Knysna overlooking a creek. Lovely.

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2. Knysna 3. Constantia 4. Oudsthoorn 5. Johannesburg

I n d o o r s postcards from

CARS AND OUTDOORS

My Hood

Wi-Fi

Indoors

CARS

Renault Duster PE 4X2 / SE 4x4 Engine: 2.0 litre 16V Transmission: four-speed automatic (PE) or six-speed manual (SE) Horsepower: 135 Starting Price: OMR5,390

They say: ‘Robust, reliable and versatile ’ We say: ‘World-beating 4x4’

Check this out

Car of the week The Renault Duster has taken the SUV market by storm with its good looks and affordability

I •• •• •• • •

Driver and passenger airbag Radio CD/MP3 player; USB jack plug and Bluetooth ABS brake system 16” alloy wheels Fog lights Leather steering wheel Driver seat with heightened adjustment options Electric door mirrors 044

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t’s a worldwide bestseller and Renault’s top-selling car in the Middle East, with 700,000 units sold worldwide. This year alone it has sold over 155,000 units.

The Renault Duster is the number four seller in the SUV segment in Oman, with sales rising by 15 per cent in the first five months of 2013.

According to Peyman Kargar, Renault Middle East managing director, the Duster is a “shockingly affordable alternative to the Japanese and Korean offerings,” starting at RO5390.

It comes in two models – the PE 4x2, four-speed automatic transmission and the SE 4x4, six-speed manual transmission.

Both of these are powered by a 2.0-litre, 16V 135-horsepower engine.

The interior is unfussy and functional. It is fitted with a

driver airbag and audio facilities including CD/MP3 player, USB jack plug and Bluetooth.

Move up a grade to the Duster SE and you get a passenger airbag, ABS brake system, 16-inch alloy wheels, fog lights, electric door mirrors and satin chrome roof rails.

Unlike many of the more fearsome-looking 4x4 brands, the Duster doesn’t set out to inspire fear, but attract admiring glances.

It is undoubtedly a looker – with its stylish bodylines, high position and handsome chrome grill.

The car has a very sizeable boot and folding rear bench seat which, when down, increases storage space by a factor of four.

This is not the car for an off-road purist. The PE model especially is an urban or miniSUV rather than a heavy duty dune-basher, targeting its core

market of families – especially women.

What it does offer is that extra bit of ground clearance and the visual advantage of height for drivers in countries where road conditions vary enormously – allowing them to ride over bumps and potholes without fear of scrapes.

For this reason and its very attractive price, the Duster is proving to be massively popular in regions including the Gulf, Brazil, Russia and India.

Another advantage for an urban driver is that, despite being very roomy inside, it is relatively compact for a 4x4, which comes in handy on congested roads and for fitting into tight parking spots.

It may not offer luxury or top-of-the-range off-road performance, but it’s practical, spacious and hits the right price for the middle-class family.

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-FI THE TECH IN YOU

My Hood

Cars

Outdoors

WI-FI

THE SWEAT SET

Kate Ginn and Joe Gill select the sporty gadgets that add a little glitz to your outdoor pursuits BAND ON THE RUN You take your exercise seriously, and like to be seen wearing the coolest-looking band around.

That’s why the Nike+ FuelBand is a must-have.

Through an accelerometer, it tracks your daily activity including running, walking, dancing and dozens of everyday activities. And while counting every calorie burned, it also tells you the time – smart. Available on Store.Nike.com or eBay from RO57.

SWIM AUDIO When it’s hot outside, there’s nothing like a bracing swim to get the heart racing. Add the Speedo Aquabeat MP3 player to the pool session, and it’s going to be Michael Phelps-tastic. Available in both 4GB and 8GB models, the Speedo Aquabeat has playlist creation and shuffle modes with a water resistance of up to three metres. It’s compatible with iTunes and Windows Media and offers up to 20 hours of playtime on a single charge. And it floats, so you won’t lose it. Available on Amazon from RO25.

GOLF AIR Ok, so you have to be seriously minted to afford this or be Tiger Woods (who is ridiculously rich and super talented) but if you want to impress on the golf course, this luxury Golf Cart Hovercraft is for you. Extravagantly over the top, but who cares if you have $58,000 (RO22,332) to spare. Scare the ducks as you glide over water hazards or bunkers on a cushion of air, powered by a 65-hp twin-cylinder engine with speeds of up to 72kph. There’s even a roof to ward off the Oman sun. Check it out on www.hammacher.com.

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