Attachingto Anchors

Single anchor within reach Tie a clove hitch to a screwgate karabiner at the anchor.

Single anchor out of reach

Any adjustment is best done at the belayer to avoid moving back and forth to the anchor to get the correct tension. Clip the rope through a screwgate karabiner at the anchor before moving close to the desired position, tie a loose clove hitch to a screwgate karabiner attached to the central rope loop, tightenthe screwgate, then move to final position and adjust tension. This way the belayer is attached before moving to a precarious position at the cliff top.

Two anchors within reach Clove hitch to the first anchor, leave some slack then clove hitch to the second anchor, bring the rope back to a clove hitch on a screwgate karabiner on the central rope loop. Adjust any of the clove hitches to ensure equal tension.

Source: Rock Climbing –Essential Skills &Techniques, MLTUK

3 anchor essentials

• Anchors equally loaded

• Anchors independently tiedoff

• Angles between anchors 60°orless