Hong Kong - Eat Stay Play by YourLifeChoices

Hong Kong EAT STAY PLAY

WALK THROUGH THE NEIGHBOURHOODS | STREET FOOD TO FINE DINING THE GREAT OUTDOORS | WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HOT AND HAPPENING IN HONG KONG www.yourlifechoices.com.au www.yourlifechoices.com.au

Best of all? It’s in Hong Kong

round nine hours away from most Australian capital cities lies Asia’s most exciting destination, a city where old blends with new, tradition mixes with technology and East meets West. YourLifeChoices is excited to partner with the Hong Kong Tourism Board to bring you this inspiring guide, highlighting the best of Hong Kong. We’ve had so much fun working on this publication. Our mouths water every time we see images of the diverse cuisine on offer and the vast neighbourhoods waiting to be explored. The colours, culture, people, all compel us to put Hong Kong on the top of our travel wish-list.

We know that you, our YourLifeChoices members, love Hong Kong! In our recent survey, almost 60 per cent of you told us that you have previously visited, and an overwhelming 95 per cent of you want to return. For those of you who haven’t yet visited Asia’s world city, this guide will surely inspire you to start planning. You’ve told us the most important element of a holiday is the culture – and good news, Hong Kong delivers this in spades. Looking for wellness and relaxation? Then Hong Kong’s great outdoors is calling your name, perhaps head to one of the 260plus outlying islands, each with their

own unique spark. Fancy yourself as a bit of a foodie? Hong Kong is a culinary heavyweight serving up the most intriguing and delicious food everywhere you look. Warning: you may put on a few kilos. There’s so much to see and do that a few days won’t suffice – take a week, at least, to really do this destination justice. The hustle and bustle of the city, relaxing countryside, mixed with the local heritage and culture makes Hong Kong a place that will satisfy every tastebud and leave you planning your next visit even before you’ve boarded the plane back home. So what are you waiting for? Let’s get planning! Leon Della Bosca Editor For more information, head to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/au follow on facebook.com/ discoverhongkong.au

Published by: Indigo Arch Pty Ltd Publisher: Kaye Fallick Editor: Leon Della Bosca Copy Editor: Haya Husseini Contributing Writers: Craig Tansley, Penny Watson and Leon Della Bosca Designer: Word-of-Mouth Creative Phone: 61 3 9885 4935 Email: admin@yourlifechoices.com.au Web: www.yourlifechoices.com.au All rights reserved, no parts of this book may be printed, reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, without the permission in writing from the publisher, with the exception of short extractions for review purposes. IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER No person should rely on the contents of this publication without first obtaining advice from a qualified professional person. This publication is distributed on the terms and understanding that (1) the publisher, authors, consultants and editors are not responsible for the results of any actions taken on the basis of information in this publication, nor for any omission from this publication; and (2) the publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, financial, professional or other advice or services. The publisher and the authors, consultants and editors expressly disclaim all and any liability and responsibility to any person, whether a subscriber or reader of this publication or not, in respect of anything, and of the consequences of anything done or omitted to be done by any such person in reliance, whether wholly or partially, upon the whole or any part of the contents of this publication. Without limiting the generality of the above, no publisher, author, consultant or editor shall have any responsibility for any act of omission of any author, consultant or editor. Copyright Indigo Arch Pty Ltd 2019

Contents Welcome to the neighbourhoods 04 Craig Tansley uncovers Hong Kong’s best kept secrets From street food to fine dining From dim sum and dai pai dongs to Michelin-starred dishes

What’s hot in Hong Kong? A region steeped in history that’s also constantly reinventing itself

The great outdoors 10 Penny Watson takes you on an adventure tour of the hidden treasures outside the city Hong Hong happenings The dates to keep in mind when planning your Hong Kong holiday

04 08

YourLifeChoices Hong Kong – Eat Stay Play

Welcome to the neighbourhoods

Craig Tansley walks you through Hong Kong’s neighbourhoods and uncovers the city’s best-kept secret, Sham Shui Po …

he neighbourhood of Sham Shui Po was so far off the Hong Kong tourist trail that the only travellers who had heard of it were those who had relatives there. While you’ll find some of the world’s most expensive real estate barely 30 minutes away on Hong Kong Island in Central, Sham Shui Po is best known for being home to the city’s first public housing estates.

For this is one of Hong Kong’s most vibrant neighbourhoods. If you’re a fan of bustling local markets – Sham Shui Po’s your place. If you’re looking for electronics, the open-air Apliu Street

markets are the city’s gold mine; while the flea markets in a district long known for clothing merchandise makes you feel like you’re in an Asian ‘take’ on London’s Soho district.

“This is Hong Kong to me,” local fashion designer Douglas Young says. “The real architecture of Hong Kong is not designed by architects. It’s designed by residents; it’s their laundry, their TV aerials, their signage, their graffiti. It provides us with that special layer.” 4

YourLifeChoices Hong Kong – Eat Stay Play

Photos: Hong Kong Tourism Board

But things are changing in Hong Kong. Visitors want grit … and nowhere is grittier than Sham Shui Po.

Behind the clothing merchants on Sham Shui Po’s main streets, there are laneways leading to new artistic hubs. At Wontonmeen, there’s a shared living space that’s home to 11 storeys of artists, journalists, musicians and designers; and at new cafes such as Openground, young locals share work desks while sipping imported coffee. At the oldest public housing complex in the whole city – Shek Kip Mei Public Housing Estate – you’ll now find a contemporary museum, Mei Ho House Museum, offering a fascinating insight into the real Hong Kong, well beyond the bright lights and neon signs. Around here, you’ll experience a lot more old-world China than colonial Britain, including Chinese teahouses on street corners. Drop into The Heritage Teahouse, located inside a former factory building that’s been transformed into a stunning arts centre (The Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre). That’s what this suburb is all about – the treasure between dangling electrical cables and garish street signage. A warning: expect the understated. There are over 60 Michelin-starred restaurants in Hong Kong, but Sham Shui Po’s contribution is in an old apartment block – it’s one of the world’s cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant – Tim Ho Wan – on Fuk Wing Street. If you’re a pork bun lover, Tim Ho Wan will tantalise your taste buds. Finish lunch off around the corner with a sweet tofu pudding at one of the city’s best traditional bean curd restaurants – Kung Wo Beancurd Factory – run by a former investment banker.

Other neighbourhoods worth a visit Sheung Wan It’s one of Hong Kong Island’s oldest neighbourhoods – on the site of the first British occupation of the city. These days, however, Sheung Wan is home to as many odd Chinese medicine shops and markets as there are stunning examples of Edwardian architecture. It’s now become Hong Kong’s trendiest neighbourhood, home to its most bohemian bars and cafes, but don’t go past Dried Seafood Street if you want to see the quirky side of Hong Kong. The city’s oldest food markets and antique shops are on Antique Street – seeing a pattern yet? – and are some of the city’s finest.

A fascinating insight into Hong Kong – beyond the bright lights and neon signs. Tsim Sha Tsui Located on the other side of Victoria Harbour, in Kowloon, Tsim Sha Tsui is a little more accessible than Central. With its sprawling parks and colonial monuments you can walk around sightseeing for hours. Here, people-watching is highly recommended; for this is Hong Kong’s most ethnically diverse neighbourhood. You also won’t find better food anywhere in Hong Kong – there’s everything here from cheap noodle shops to Michelin-starred gourmet hotspots, and, of course, The Peninsula, one of Asia’s most iconic luxury hotels. Even if you don’t stay there, try its famous Day Spa or high tea.

Wan Chai Wan Chai is the cultural hub of Hong Kong. Should you be looking for a beer or wine, Lockhart Road is Hong Kong’s premier bar district. The restaurants along Jaffe Road are some of Hong Kong’s finest – though for cheaper treats and to eat like a local, try the open-air dai pai dong restaurants in huge tents that are the neighbourhood’s calling cards. Look out for food festivals at the Convention and Exhibition Centre. If theatre’s your thing, head to the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts. The best art exhibitions in Hong Kong are at Wan Chai’s Hong Kong Arts Centre.

Yau Ma Tei Most visitors may not venture to Yau Ma Tei because it is not as wellknown as its neighbours Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok. But, Yau Ma Tei has Hong Kong’s most iconic street markets and some of the oldest restaurants – so the streets are literally buzzing with energy. There are amazing culinary treats all over – you’ll have to queue with ‘in-the-know’ locals at eateries like Four Seasons Pot Rice, but it’s worth the wait. Colonial architecture is everywhere, but it’s the markets you should come for. The Jade Market sells every type of jade jewellery you could ever think of, Shanghai Street is the chef’s pick for homewares, while the Temple Street Night Market is the city’s most famous. More Craig Tansley is a travel writer based on the Gold Coast. He writes for Australia’s major newspapers, as well as international titles such as the Sunday Times of London and Conde Nast Traveller in the US and the UK.

YourLifeChoices Hong Kong – Eat Stay Play

From street food to fine dining From Formica tables and brightly coloured plastic chairs to fancy linens and silverware –Hong Kong’s diverse and mouth-watering cuisine is irresistible.

ai pai dongs are Hong Kong’s most archetypal eateries and a one-of-a-kind cultural experience. Dai pai dong translates to ‘stall with big license plate’, which refers to the non-renewable licenses handed out by the government to embattled families after World War II, giving them permission to run hawkerstyle food stalls in order to make a living. Once there were hundreds of these stalls occupying almost every street corner across the city. Today, there are only around 30 left, making them a disappearing culinary institution. Serving staples such as milk tea, dumpling soup and fried rice, these open-air kitchens are still typically found on the side of the road or down laneways. Offering some of the best and cheapest eats in the city, these vendors cook from generations-old recipes, but just as often, whip up western dishes using local ingredients and/or techniques to create something that is familiar yet very different. 6

While dai pai dongs are an essential element in Hong Kong’s culture and culinary scene, the city also attracts some of the world’s best chefs and restaurateurs, all of whom contribute to a highly regarded dining scene. This is evident from the presence of more than 60 Michelin-starred restaurants found across the city and surrounds. Travellers can begin their discovery of some of the world’s finest restaurants in Hong Kong by following the latest edition of the Michelin Guide, or by trying one of the popular foodie tours, which serve up a wide range of culinary experiences, with a few history facts and figures thrown in for good measure. If you're all about being guided by your tastebuds, here are a few ideas to get you started.

Food tours For an excursion that combines modern and traditional cuisine, take a walking tour of Old Town Central by following the guidebook at your own leisure. Or try the Hong Kong

YourLifeChoices Hong Kong – Eat Stay Play

for Foodies four-day itinerary, where you’ll not only savour a range of dishes across Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, but also gain an insight into some of the lesser known neighbourhoods.

Must eats Hong Kong staples include dim sum, congee, roast meats and noodles, but there are plenty of weird and wonderful dishes for you to try, too, such as curry fish balls, snake soup and century egg, to name a few. Specialty foodie markets If you’re a true foodie at heart, head to the local food markets to eat like the locals. Favourites include Chun Yeung Street at North Point and Dried Seafood Street and Tonic Food Street at Sheung Wan, both on Hong Kong Island; the wet markets Sai Kung Seafood Street at Sai Kung in the New Territories; one of Hong Kong’s oldest thoroughfares, Shanghai Street at Yau Ma Tei in Kowloon; and the Local Specialty Market at Tai O on Lantau Island.

Cooking classes Book an inspirational cooking class and take home a new skill to share with your family and friends. Learn to master the wok, whip up some dim sum or identify your spices with lessons to suit every palate. Food havens With more than 14,000 restaurants, Hong Kong is one of the world’s pre-eminent dining destinations, and culinary discoveries can be made just about anywhere in the city. However, these are the neighbourhoods where food is a major drawcard.

Hong Kong Island Soho East (Sai Wan Ho) Think waterfront pubs, cafes, restaurants in a relaxed atmosphere as patrons dine alfresco and local residents walk and practise Tai Chi along the waterfront. Soho South of Hollywood Road, you’ll find the wining, dining, swanky nightlife side of Central. Here, upmarket bars and exotic restaurants are set amongst fashion boutiques, art galleries and antiques shops in historic and narrow streets.

Starstreet Precinct (Wan Chai) What used to be home to Hong Kong Electric’s first power plant is now a fashionable dining neighbourhood with design-driven lifestyle stores. Stanley Main Street Visit Stanley Market and enjoy alfresco seaside dining along the main street of a small fishing village. The food is international, the restaurants are laidback, and the South China Sea views are amazing. The East (Wan Chai) The epitome of Hong Kong’s fusion characteristics which seamlessly blends ancient Chinese architecture with Western colonial buildings. Here you’ll find Asian and international cuisine, quirky antiques shops and luxury boutiques.

Kowloon Tsim Sha Tsui East A strip of bars, restaurants, alfresco dining, cafés and nearby five-star hotels ensure something to suit every taste. Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui A cosmopolitan collection of bars and restaurants offer a welcome

respite from teeming Tsim Sha Tsui, European, Chinese and Asian-inspire cuisine. Knutsford Terrace & Observatory Court Tsim Sha Tsui may be a little hectic for some, but at Knutsford Terrace, the only thing hectic is the choice of more than 30 restaurants with cuisines spanning the globe. Sham Shui Po Go where the locals go for a great mix of adventurous morsels, affordable meals, authentic fare and old favourites. Afternoon tea From luxury hotels to cha chaan teng classics, there’s an afternoon tea to suit every occasion and budget. Favourites include the Lobby Lounge at Hong Kong Inter-Continental Hotel and The Peninsula, both in Tsim Sha Tsui; Tiffin at Grand Hyatt, Wan Chai; Mandarin Oriental, and The Lounge at Four Seasons, in Central, and Tea Saloon by AnotherFineDay just off the Mid-Level Escalator, also in Central.

Restaurants with a view Why not pair your meal with a magnificent view? Hong Kong is famous for restaurants featuring stunning vistas. You’ll have amazing views of Central and a choice of drinking and dining options at SEVVA, while expansive views of Hong Kong’s skyline can be seen through the floor to ceiling windows at Hutong. Book a table for around 7.30pm to watch the nightly performance of the light and sound show, A Symphony of Lights. The best views of Victoria Harbour can be seen from 101 floors up at Le 39V and for ocean views with an eclectic menu, dine alfresco at The Pulse on Repulse Bay. More Download a list of Hong Kong’s most highly awarded restaurants.

YourLifeChoices Hong Kong – Eat Stay Play

What’s hot in Hong Kong A cultural hotspot where East meets West, Hong Kong is a region teeming with must-sees and must-dos.

ut simply, there’s no place like Hong Kong. Here are just a few experiences that await you ...

Seven things you can only do in Hong Kong

Hike up a mid-city mountain In no time at all, you can hike up a majestic mountain where you will be rewarded with views overlooking one of the world’s most densely populated cities.

Ride the longest covered escalator system in the world Hong Kong’s Mid-Levels Escalator

is a series of escalators that link the hilly areas to the heart of the Central District. Hop on and off for fab food, shopping, cultural quick stops and intriguing people-watching.

Drink at one of the world’s highest bars Ozone, on the top floor of the International Commerce Centre or ICC building in West Kowloon, offers highaltitude libations with views that will simply floor you.

Eat some of the cheapest Michelin-starred food in the world Sample mouth-watering Michelin-rated

dishes for less than A$10 at Tim Ho Wan in Sham Shui Po. The char siu bao borders on addictive, and Hong Kong’s most famous dim sum is sure to please.

Hang out with a really big buddha (or a whole lot of them) The Tian Tan Buddha is the world’s largest outdoor seated buddha and perhaps Hong Kong’s most recognisable tourist attraction. If one big buddha isn’t enough for you, head to Sha Tin Monastery, where you will be greeted by 10,000 buddhas.

Ride a double decker tram Hong Kong is the only place in the world with a working fleet of double decker ‘Ding Ding’ trams. They may be a little slow but are very cheap and a charming way to soak up the cityscape and surrounds.

Witness a nightly spectacular lightshow Skyscrapers and buildings on both sides of Victoria Harbour provide the canvas for one of the world’s longestrunning free light and sound shows. Every night from 8pm, A Symphony of Lights showcases the vibrancy of the city, with myriad searchlights, lasers and LED screens working in symphony to create an audio-visual extravaganza backed by the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra.

YourLifeChoices Hong Kong – Eat Stay Play

Free for all! While Hong Kong may have a reputation for glitz and glamour, you don’t need deep pockets to have a good time. Man Mo Temple A tribute to the God of Literature (Man) and the God of War (Mo), Man Mo Temple in Central requires no tribute from tourists. Make sure you bring your camera. Get lost (in the nicest possible way) Just outside the city you’ll find hiking trails through majestic mountain peaks and heritage havens, with hikes for all abilities, clearly displayed difficulty ratings and a plethora of pocketfriendly pit stops along the way. Go wild Stroll through a pristine park right in the middle of the city for a chance to get close to local wildlife. Hong Kong Park is a real-life Eden where you can visit the jungle-like Edward Youde Aviary or trek to the tropical Forsgate Conservatory – Southeast Asia’s largest conservatory and home to a range of botanical beauties. Cultural crowd pleasers Hong Kong’s major museums offer free entry on Wednesdays, with some even offering free guided tours. Venture into The Hong Kong Museum of History, The Hong Kong Heritage Museum or The Hong Kong Science Museum any day of the week for a free culture fix.

Free art galleries World class galleries and art hubs are linked by back alleys and main streets bursting with colourful street art. Take a tour of Hong Kong’s quintessential street art hot spots including Old Town Central, Sham Shui Po and Mong Kok. Street markets While cash may enhance this experience, you don’t need to purchase anything to get a glimpse of Hong Kong life at its most colourful. Try your hand at haggling, sample fresh foods and snacks, people-watch and meet with locals on the go, day or night.

Hong Kong is a region steeped in history but it’s also constantly reinventing itself. What’s hot in Hong Kong right now Eat Gordon Ramsay has opened his acclaimed contemporary steakhouse, Maze Grill, in the stunning new glasshouse extension of Ocean Terminal, Harbour City. Two bold new culinary concepts have recently opened at Central’s L’Place. Hunter delivers a modern and refined

dining experience, while The Chase is a more casual, eclectic space, incorporating American bistro classics with a cool cocktail bar, chic lounge and one of the city’s most coveted outdoor terraces. Celebrated chef Virgilio Martinez Véliz has launched ICHU Peru in the H Queen’s building, serving contemporary Peruvian cuisine in a modern, bistro-style setting. Exciting new culinary destinations emerge each month. Visit Discover Hong Kong to find out what’s hot in Hong Kong. Play Hong Kong’s only rooftop ‘guinguette’, PIQNIQ, is located at the top of the city’s hottest new arts venue, H Queen’s. Dining, drinking, dancing and relaxation take centre stage while guests enjoy mesmerising views from Victoria Harbour to The Peak. Located at the eastern edge of the West Kowloon Cultural District, the Xiqu Centre is Hong Kong’s new venue for Cantonese opera and other forms of Chinese traditional theatre. Regular programmes include film screenings, workshops, talks and exhibitions, as well as guided tours.

Getting around Take the Airport Express Link – only 24 minutes to the heart of Hong Kong, free wifi, air-con and you can checkin luggage at the station upon your return. Hong Kong’s position as Asia’s gateway and hub for multi-destination travel has been strengthened with the recent opening of Hong Kong’s High Speed Rail System and the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge. Check out the new West Kowloon Station, the main Hong Kong hub for the new rail network, which features a pedestrian skywalk delivering views of Victoria Harbour and the Hong Kong skyline. Don’t Miss Most neighbourhoods offer great self-guided walking tours where you can experience the best of Hong Kong’s street food, markets, galleries, shopping and culture, while also picking up a few history facts. More Before planning your trip, check out the Hong Kong 2019 events calendar on page 12.

YourLifeChoices Hong Kong – Eat Stay Play

The great outdoors Beyond the futuristic skyline and high-rise apartments Hong Kong has an abundance of nature waiting to be discovered, says Penny Watson.

admit it, I’m not a Jimmy Choo shoe kind of gal. Nor am I inclined – shock horror – to spend my entire pay cheque on a Luis Vuitton purse or Hermes scarf. So, what to do in Hong Kong once you’ve eaten your fill of xia long bao and siu mai dumplings? Get outdoors is what. Squeeze near-on 7.5 million people into 1,106 square kilometres and you have the fourth densest conurbation on the planet. But beyond the futuristic skyline and high-rise apartments, Hong Kong has a chunk of nature waiting to be discovered – nearly 70 per cent of the total land mass, in fact, is designated country park or nature reserve. What’s more, you’ll find some of the more remote areas also offer history and culture immersions, so you can have your mooncake and eat it too.

Walking and hiking Stretching 100 kilometres across New Territories near Sai Kung, The MacLehose Trail is often voted one of the world’s best. It passes sea caves and rock formations and traverses 10

beautiful beaches, forests, rustic villages and Tai Mo Shan (957m), Hong Kong’s highest peak boasting spectacular coastal vistas. Like the MacLehose, Hong Kong’s other major walks – The Wilson (78km), Lantau (70km) and The Hong Kong Trail (50km) – are divided into smaller segments so, more comfortably between November and March, visitors can choose leisurely walks through diverse scenery, be it rugged and coastal, woods and wildflowers, or history and heritage.

Country parks Many of Hong Kong’s country parks are geared-up for visitors. Shing Mun Country Park, in the south-western New Territories, has an all-level walking trail circling scenic Shing Mun reservoir. Almost 100 years old, the reservoir is known locally as Pineapple Dam, a hangover from the days when Hakka villagers grew fruit crops here. There’s a visitor centre, with information about the park’s old military ruins and proliferation of butterfly species. The trail crosses a

YourLifeChoices Hong Kong – Eat Stay Play

charming old dam and winds through young forests where you have a chance to spot some the of park’s resident wild monkeys. At Plover Cover Country Park, in the north-eastern New Territories, walkers have a different experience, this time weaving their way through bamboo forests that shade the old tiled-roof houses of the Hakka people. One of the best-preserved villages, Lai Chi Wo, has a traditional layout and distinctive decorative Feng Shui wall at its entrance. Tree-spotters should keep an eye out for the century-old maple and camphor trees.

Cultural immersions Another hike, the Nei Lak Shan Country Trail, stretches across Ngong Ping Plateau on Lantau Island to the peak. But above it, The Ngong Ping 360 scenic cable car offers a completely different view with less effort. The cable cars depart from Tung Chung MTR station and travel 5.7 kilometres across mesmerisingly green tropical vegetation with stunning views

of the South China Sea and newly opened Hong Kong to Macao Bridge. Most impressive is the view of Tian Tan Buddha. The massive 34-metre bronze frame seated on a lofty hilltop comes into focus as you near the end of the ride – it’s a splendid vision. A short walk from the Buddha, Po Lin Monastery is a fittingly serene place to wander around tiled-roof temples and manicured marigoldscented gardens. There’s a basic café where you can dine on simple and affordable vegetarian dishes. While you’re in this part of Hong Kong, don’t miss remote Tai O, a stilthouse village located a short bus ride away. Situated at the mouth of the Pearl River Delta, this once-thriving fishing village retains its heritage and old fisherfolk ways. Walk through the

streets and markets, visit temples and take a boat ride around the stilted homes. Luxury Tai O Heritage Hotel, the restored former marine police station, makes this a tranquil overnight option.

So you can have your mooncake and eat it too! Island hopping Hong Kong has an incredible 262 outlying islands that offer fun-filled day trips. My favourite (I’m biased because I lived here for a year) is car-free and carefree Lamma Island, a half-hour ferry ride from Central to Yung Shue Wan. Dine on an authentic home-style dim sum breakfast at one of the eateries lining the waterfront,

then keep walking past the indie village shops and cutesy cafes along the paved Family Trail. You’ll walk through lush tropical gardens and past little temples and ocean viewpoints. Highlights include Hung Shing Yeh Beach, where you can swim, and the WWII Kamikaze Caves. At the other end, in Sok Kwu Wan village, wrap your chopsticks around a Cantonese seafood feast before catching the ferry back to Central.

Beach bumming Hong Kong Island has its fair share of beaches but the tranquillity and water clarity tend to improve the further afield you go. Silvermine Bay Beach on Lantau Island is a half-hour ferry from Central to Mui Wo. The pristine water on a big arc of blonde sand here is complemented by the quiet charm of a village surrounded by green hills. With more time, and for a measly few dollars, you can jump in a cab (there’s also a walking trail) to Pui O Beach where palm trees give the sandy shores a tropical feel. There’s a herd of water buffalo and a little temple amid the trees, but you’ll also find a small kiosk that rents surfboards to anyone keen to take on beginner waves. More Penny Watson is the author of Hong Kong Precincts, a shopping, eating and drinking guide to the city. Her new carry-on sized Hong Kong Pocket Precincts will be published by Hardie Grant Books in 2019. See: pennywatson.com.au and hardiegrant.com

YourLifeChoices Hong Kong – Eat Stay Play

Hong Kong happenings Make the most of your trip by including one of these colourful events or festivals. January–February: Chinese New Year Chinese New Year is the most exciting time of the year for locals and visitors alike, with festive markets, bustling temples and the official Chinese New Year Night Parade. Experience a Chinese New Year like no other. Late February–March: The Hong Kong Arts Festival This is the pinnacle of Hong Kong’s performing arts events, showcasing Asia’s top talents alongside leading artists from around the world. March–April: Hong Kong International Film Festival One of Asia’s most reputable platforms for film-makers, film professionals and film-goers to launch new works and view fresh features. March: Arts Month The annual Hong Kong Arts Month showcases local and overseas artists through inspiring exhibitions, dance, performance, music and theatre – all providing a portal into Hong Kong’s creative core. End March: Art Basel Galleries from around the world converge upon Hong Kong with artists presenting a diverse collection of artworks by established and emerging artists, as well as specially curated projects. 5–7 April: Hong Kong Sevens The world’s top rugby nations compete in lightning-fast 15-minute matches in what is one of the biggest rugby events on the international sporting calendar. May: Cheung Chau Bun Festival A week-long event where the people of Cheung Chau post paper effigies of deities to drive off evil spirits in what is listed as an intangible part of China’s cultural heritage. Expect Taoist ceremonies and music, parades, lion dances, drum beating and an exciting bun scrambling competition. 12

June: Hong Kong Dragon Boat Carnival One of the most popular events on the Hong Kong calendar, during which thousands of dragon boat athletes from around the world battle it out over three days of intense racing by day in Victoria Harbour – and partying by night! September: Mid-Autumn Festival Celebrated since the Tang dynasty (618–907), the Mid-Autumn Festival is still highly revered today and is considered one of the most important festivals of the year. Fire dragons dance as magical lanterns light their way. There are carnivals and mooncakes aplenty – a truly special time of year. September to July: Horse Racing Hong Kongers are passionate about horse racing, with race meetings held almost all year round every Saturday and Sunday at Sha Tin and Wednesday nights at Happy Valley. October: Cyclothon While professional racers push themselves to the utmost, amateur riders enjoy the city’s scenery on long, leisurely rides, with locals and visitors cheering on or partying at a fun-filled carnival. 5–13 October: Hong Kong Tennis Open Each year, more than 50 of the world’s top female players compete in what has been awarded the ‘International Tournament of the Year’ by the WTA.

YourLifeChoices Hong Kong – Eat Stay Play

October: Halloween Crumbling village walls and old Victorian mansions, not to mention eons of folklore featuring ghosts, ghouls and demons, make Hong Kong the perfect Halloween destination – and not just for the kids! Late October: Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival World-class food, drinks and entertainment, wine-pairing meals designed by master chefs and tasting classes by industry experts are but a few of the compelling reasons to visit this scrumptious outdoor festival. November: Great November Feast Hong Kong reinforces its reputation as a culinary heavyweight with this month-long series of happenings that bring together the best of the region’s culinary offerings. December: Hong Kong Pulse Light Festival Christmas and the new year are celebrated with a spectacle of light, art, music and entertainment. December: New Year’s Eve Countdown There’s no better way to bring in the New Year than with Hong Kong’s spectacular countdown, dazzling pyrotechnics and the vivid party atmosphere of Victoria Harbour. More There’s so much to see and do – visit Discover Hong Kong to find out more!

Photo: @Sze Wang