YOU in amsterdam Spring 2013

YOU

SPRING 2013

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IN AMSTERDAM

DINING & WINING • SHOPPING • CLUBS • MUSEUMS • MUSIC MOVIES • FASHION • LIFESTYLE • DANCE • GALLERIES

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ADDRESS P.O. Box 29 1616 ZG Hoogkarspel The Netherlands T 0228 – 85 57 25 E info@youinamsterdam.nl SAlES Inez Stertefeld (sales & PR manager) T 0622 – 14 27 89 E sales@youinamsterdam.nl Arthur van der Zwan T 0652 – 69 93 95 E sales@youinamsterdam.nl EDIToR-In-ChIEF Robert van der Zwan T 0653 – 31 63 74 E editor@youinamsterdam.nl EDIToRS Lizet Deutekom, Constanze Fluhme, Robin Glendenning (English language editor), Bénédicte Gruys, Wilag Kater, Henry Salman, Carla van Splunteren, Evert Stel (photographer) ART DIRECToR Peter Leeuwerink pRInTED BY Moderna (Belgium) CoVER phoToGRAph De Keukenhof Subscriptions: ¤ 18 a year (shipping costs excluded) - please send your address to: info@youinamsterdam.nl Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without the publisher’s written permission (c) 2013

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AN ODE TO COLOURFUL HOLLAND ‘DE KEUKENHOF’: TULIP-MAGNIFICENCE AROUND THE CORNER

20 QUEEN’S DAY? NO, KING’S DAY AMSTERDAM WELCOMES THE FIRST DUTCH KING SINCE 1890

34 AMSTERDAM’S GABLE STONES THEY ARE EVERYWHERE, EACH A LITTLE DOCUMENT OF HISTORY

48 MOVING WITH THE TIMES THE TROPICS MUSEUM: FROM ART TO DAILY LIFE TO CURRENT AFFAIRS

52 THE NEW RIJKSMUSEUM A ‘CULTURAL CATHEDRAL’ FOR THE ‘NIGHT WATCH’ (AMONG OTHERS!)

REGUlARS 12 IN & AROUND THE CITY WHAT’S GOING ON THIS SEASON?

17 KIDS IN THE CITY WHERE CAN KIDS ENJOY THEMSELVES?

18 HOSPITALITY HOTELS IN THE SPOTLIGHT

26 SHOPPING LUXURY SHOPPING IN DESIGNER HEAVEN

40 NEW IN SEASON THE LATEST GADGETS AND FASHION

46 CONCIERGE WHO WILL POINT YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION?

58 CHEFS IN THE CITY CULINARY HIGHLIGHTS

60 SPECIAL RESTAURANTS AND BARS ENJOY THE VARIETY OF DISHES AMSTERDAM HAS TO OFFER

66 ARTS & CULTURE AMSTERDAM IS ABOUT PAINTINGS, PHOTOGRAPHY AND MUCH MORE...

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‘De KeuKenhof’: ShowcaSe of flower cultivation

A pArAdise-like ode to frAgrAnt, colourful HollAnd

A former director of AmsterdAm’s rijksmuseum, the undisputed cAlling cArd of dutch Artistic culture, once merrily noted thAt he could tell from the visitor numbers to his museum thAt horticulturAl eldorAdo ‘de keukenhof’ wAs open AgAin. too right!

text Henry salman photography De KeuKenHof

Page 6 & 7 As tulips bloom for only the first couple of weeks, the colours and scents of hyacinths and crocuses take over.

Page 9 The white horse and rider at the entrance has forever symbolised the park’s nobility.

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bviously, the Rijksmuseum is – along with the Van Gogh Museum, the capital’s ring of canals, cheese, clogs and windmills – the determining factor in the image foreign visitors have of the Netherlands. De Keukenhof, however, with all its tulipmagnificence, is the pure and unmistakable quintessence of the colourful beauty of the country. It’s not for nothing that some 850,000 mostly foreign tourists grace De Keukenhof in the town of Lisse with their presence annually. And they do so in the just two months of the year that the flower-bulb paradise is open. De Keukenhof, just a stone’s throw from Amsterdam, is so enchanting that direct bus services will take you there from Schiphol Airport as well as the capital’s city centre.

THeme: englisH garDens Increasing numbers of people from the Americas and Asia (Japan, China and Korea in particular) visit the bulb region in the north of the Dutch province of South Holland. And increasingly also, they visit the Netherlands exclusively to see De Keukenhof. After all, as all good preconceptions deserve affirmation, it is the tulip that represents the ultimate glory of Dutch horticulture. These high expectations are emphatically what the work of De Keukenhof ’s chief garden designer is all about. Even in 2013, therefore, when the theme is United Kingdom – Land of Great Gardens, tulips, in all their stunning and variegated beauty, will dominate as ever. arT anD THe arT of flowers De Keukenhof is more than the celebrated Dutch tulip, of course. Its 32-hectare flower park has been gorgeously landscaped to feature beautiful flowerbeds bursting with hitherto unimagined floral feasts. There are pavilions where the carefree visitor can indulge in subtly cultivated indoor plants and flowers. And there are countless garden styles at which to marvel, with the emphasis this year, as said, on the stately English garden.

Obviously, visitors can enjoy a cup of coffee and many other relaxing refreshments at De Keukenhof. Its benches offer wonderful views of the park, including works of art by both Dutch and internationally famous artists who have admirably added splendour to the pride of the national art of flower arrangement. The white horse and rider at the entrance has forever symbolised the park’s nobility. A no-less conspicuous work is the transparent sculpture ‘Ode to Rembrandt’ by famous Dutch writer, sculptor and nature lover Jan Wolkers.

The piece, which has been only recently acquired by De Keukenhof, betrays Wolkers’ high appreciation of the Dutch master and coincides seamlessly with the atmosphere of the park that first opened its gates in 1950. new grass eacH year “How do you maintain such a beautiful lawn?” It is a question often heard by those who work here. Where the colossal oaks, beeches and lime trees bring much shadow with their dense foliage during the rainy spring season, and where choking mosses therefore thrive, the

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“Believe it or not, each year the entire 32 hectares is dug up”

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1. Would you like to venture beyond the paths of De Keukenhof? You can. Take in the broad and rich bulb-field landscape from the water during a boat trip.

lawns of De Keukenhof suggest exactly the opposite: they are like a green mirror. The answer of the park’s employees is as simple as it is sweet: “Believe it or not, each year, the entire 32 hectares is dug up, divided into new beds and plots and subsequently sown in. That’s seven million bulbs planted by hand, framed by fresh grass seed.”

2. Art and the art of flowers in perfect harmony.

retiring beeches That’s quite a bit of work then, for the 30 full-time gardeners, while nature spontaneously takes her course and... all the credit. The men and women of De Keukenhof don’t mind in the slightest. They’re happy as long as the visitors are happy. But they do have their concerns. The centuries-old beech trees of the park have reached their limits of age. What to do? Chopping them down is the only option, albeit with heavy heart. The mighty giants with their thick and deep-grooved trunks are as much a part of the park as all the bulbs that make up what is arguably the most colourful floral mosaic in the world.

Forever in Fragrant bloom This year, De Keukenhof will be open from March 21, the first day of meteorological spring, until Monday, May 20. Two months of natural entertainment at its best. It may seem rather short for such an interesting and large-scale attraction, but even such a brief period requires great ingenuity and planning. Tulips bloom for just a couple of weeks, for instance. Consequently, the park architect and his gardeners have to find a way to ensure that new colours appear the moment the ephemeral tulip hangs her head. But that’s no problem. During autumn, the experienced people at De Keukenhof planted crocus bulbs on top of the tulip bulbs. They flower a little later in season and with that, visitors always get exactly what they came for: a permanent nuance of colours and scents. purveyors to the Dutch court In keeping with its status as showcase par excellence, the park works with Purveyors to the Dutch Court, that is to say: carefully selected Dutch bulb growers and exporters. They supply the varieties and colours in close consultation with the park’s architect, guaranteeing a

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1. On April 19 and 20, the floats of the annual Bulbflower Parade will make their way through the bulb region. En route between Noordwijk and Haarlem they pass De Keukenhof, so be sure to look out for them if you happen to plan your visit on one of these dates.

2. De Keukenhof a children’s paradise, too.

3. Tulips, tulips, tulips…

Together with cheese, clogs and windmills, tulips dominate the world’s view of Holland.

unique pallet of unity in charisma and… diversity in colour and plants. All to meet the discerning floral enthusiasts’ high expectations.

Kitchen garden De Keukenhof, once the most photographed place on earth, is 64 years old in 2013. Its name derives from the huge kitchen garden, which in days of old was tended by Jacoba van Beieren. The countess, who wore out no less than four husbands during her brief lifetime, lived from 1401 until 1436. She reigned over Holland for 16 years from her castle on the rural estate that today is home to De Keukenhof.

Now, some 600 years later, this pillar of Dutch touristic pride still boasts close ties to royalty. Many times, Dutch princes and princesses have had the honour of officially opening this floral paradise in the third week of March. And just as frequently, they have escorted monarchs from all over Europe during their visits to the park.

Big Ben and tower Bridge Central to the 2013 theme of De Keukenhof then, is the United Kingdom. Among this year’s exhibits is a beautiful floral mosaic of London’s Big Ben and Tower Bridge. Measuring 13 x 22 metres and incorporating the flowers of some 60,000 bulbs, this mosaic alone makes a visit to De Keukenhof a

spring 2013

very worthwhile day out indeed. But there is much more to De Keukenhof.

Visitors can take in the pavilions. The Beatrix Pavilion, for instance, offers a huge variety of orchids and bromeliads. And the large garden with its pond and fountain, named the Zocher Garden after the designer of Amsterdam’s Vondelpark, is one of De Keukenhof ’s distinct icons.

For the little ones, the park offers a maze and a children’s farm. During a lovely tour of the waters surrounding the park, on what the Dutch call a ‘whispering boat’, you will experience the lush expanse of the vast bulb fields. And there’s the Molenplein, or Mill Square, featuring an old draining windmill from the province of Groningen.

On April 19 and 20, De Keukenhof will play its part in the annual Bulbflower Parade, a must-see spectacle featuring a convoy of richly decorated floats, which makes its way through the towns and villages of the bulb region. In short, for the duration of their stay, visitors can wallow in floral paradise at De Keukenhof in Lisse.

For all the practical information you may require, please visit www.keukenhof.nl

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in & around the city

Photo Renee Klein

text BénédiCtE gruys Et AL.

VAn gOgH in A spECiAL pLACE

rOLLing KitCHEns

A comprehensive overview, until May 13 that is

Mobile delicacies from May 9 - 12

The historical Amsterdam stock exchange Beurs van Berlage is the venue for an exhibition of full-sized reproductions of a selection of Van Gogh’s works.

The Weekend of the ‘Rolling Kitchens’ is back, this time with its sixth edition from May 9 to May 12 at Amsterdam’s Westergasfabriek.

The ‘My Dream Exhibition’, as it is called, brings together reproductions of the most important paintings from Vincent van Gogh’s oeuvre in one comprehensive overview. One can take in near-perfect prints of more than 200 works. Seven 3D animations of some of Van Gogh’s most famous works are part of the programme. By uncovering the hidden dimensions of Van Gogh’s works, as well as presenting suggested movements by the painter, these animations give you a glimpse into the artistic mind of this famous Dutch artist.

Starting Ascension Day, mobile kitchens will descend upon the park at the Westergasfabriek to create an enormous open-air restaurant. Food to suit all appetites will be on the menu, including everything from fresh Italian pizza to sophisticated seafood dishes.

Pick up your order ‘on the spot’ and relax in the sun (or under the stars) while enjoying your food. The dishes are designed to tickle the most culinary of taste buds without hurting your wallet too much.

AMstErdAM is HOt The destination for 2013 Amsterdam has been hailed by the Lonely Planet to be the second-hottest destination in the world to visit in 2013, after San Francisco. The annual list is compiled on the basis of feedback from Lonely Planet’s online community, its staff, as well as professional writers.

Beurs van Berlage is located between Central Station and Dam Square. Either way, you are within three to five minutes walking distance. The exhibition ends on May 13.

There is no entrance fee to ‘Rolling Kitchens’. The rolling kitchens will be open from 13:00 to 23:00. The Westergasfabriek is about a 30 minutes walk from Amsterdam Central Station.

Tram number 10 stops nearby.

The Lonely Planet list is not based on where travellers are already going, but rather on where they believe they would like to go during the coming year. Amsterdam’s high ranking in 2013 is probably due to the ‘Amsterdam 2013’ theme this year. A number of impressive milestones can be part of the experience of any traveller from abroad. The renovated Rijksmuseum (with the ‘Night Watch’) will re-open, as does the Van Gogh Museum. On top of these and other highlights, Amsterdam celebrates the fact that it became ‘Canal City’ 400 years ago. In 1613, the city council decided to create the canals that Amsterdam is so renowned for today.

www.vangoghexhibition.com

www.rollingkitchens.nl

www.iamsterdam.com

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Photo Cris Toala Olivares

Photo Marjo van Rooyen

nATiOnAL MUsEUM WEEKEnD Museums for free on April 6 and 7 Over 550 museums in the Netherlands open their doors to the public for free (or discounted entrance fees) during the National Museum Weekend on April 6 and 7. Special activities and events will be organised throughout the two days.

And nowhere more so than in Amsterdam, home to some 50+ museums, many of which are world famous.

Apart from the well-known establishments, among the numerous museums participating are the Scheepvaartmuseum (National Maritime Museum), Science Center NEMO, the Verzetsmuseum (Resistance Museum), Museum de Oude Kerk (Museum the Old Church) and the EYE Film Institute.

At De Oude Kerk, you could enjoy the yearly World Press Photo Exhibition with its fascinating collection of pictures by photographers from all over the world. The Eye Film Institute, celebrating its first anniversary in a magnificent new building across the river IJ, has made April 6 and 7 a ‘weekend of the public’ for a mere € 1. www.museumweekend.nl

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pHOTO EXHiBiTiOn in ‘grACHTEnHUis’

AMsTErDAM HEriTAgE DAYs

Amsterdam’s canals throughout the year

View the city through the eyes of a historian

‘Het Grachtenhuis’, Museum of the Canals, is holding a photo exhibition by the photographer Cris Toala Olivares (1982). National Geographic Magazine asked Toala Olivares to photograph the Amsterdam’s canals for one year.

400 years ago, Amsterdam started to build its world-famous canal ring, a jubilee that the city celebrates this year. To mark this special year, the Amsterdam Bureau of Monuments & Archaeology is organising four special editions of the Amsterdam Heritage days. These ‘Open Monument’ days are designed to bring people into contact with the historical environment of Amsterdam and to encourage interest in the history of the city (and the Netherlands in general). These special days allow you to experience the amazing story of the canals through the ages. And you can visit locations that are usually offlimits to the general public. The canal ring was officially declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010.

Celebrating the 400th anniversary of the canal district, a feature by Toala Olivares and author Jeroen Junte will appear in the March edition of the wellknown magazine. A selection of 17 other photos from the series are shown at ‘Het Grachtenhuis’.

Olivares is an Ecuadoran-Dutch photographer. In 2009 he received the prestigious Silver Camera award.

The exhibition has been organised as an addition to the permanent exhibition of ‘Het Grachtenhuis’. In this museum, one can travel through 400 years of history in 40 minutes by means of interactive multimedia. www.hetgrachtenhuis.nl

The Amsterdam Heritage Days this year are on March 24, May 26 and July 14 (all Sundays) and on September 14 and 15 (Saturday and Sunday).

Admission is free. www.amsterdam.nl/ openmonumentendag

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Photo Bas de Meijer

WOrLD prEss pHOTO

CLOUDLEss AMsTErDAM

Be among the first to see the pictures

The city from the sky From the characteristic Zeedijk and the monumental Westertoren to the copper-green NEMO in the Eastern Docks and the Water District of IJburg: Amsterdam boasts a wealth of striking places with impressive buildings, fascinating streets and delightful squares.

Especially when you view them from the sky.

Photographer Peter Elenbaas took around 7,000 aerial photographs – most during the summer of 2012, but some of them decades ago. He chose his favourites for his book ‘Cloudless Amsterdam: A City in Motion’.

Together they provide an unexpected view of the changing city. Journalist Lambiek Berends wrote a brief history to accompany the photographs. If you want so see Amsterdam in all its glory, this book is certainly worth considering. You can buy it at many bookshops in the city. Alternatively, you could visit the website of the publisher and get one there (Uitgeverij Bas Lubberhuizen). www.lubberhuizen.nl

THE iDEAL CAnAL Adrian Dortsman and his canal buildings Until June 8, 2013 Museum Van Loon exhibits Adriaan Dortsman’s ‘The Ideal Canal’. Dortsman (1635-1682) is responsible for the design of numerous canal buildings in Amsterdam, including the famous circular Lutheran Church on the Singel, the Sixhuis on the Amstel, Maison Descartes on the Vijzelgracht, the Oosterkerk on the Wittenburgergracht (where Dortsman is buried) and, of course, Museum Van Loon itself on the Keizersgracht.

Dortsman’s buildings, with their beautiful, sober style, are exemplary of Dutch Classicism. The exhibition shows his designs by means of paintings (by Gerrit Berckheyde, for instance), drawings, photographs and maps. www.museumvanloon.nl

If you are in Amsterdam this spring, you are in for a treat: the annual World Press Photo exhibition in the Oude Kerk (Old Church). Be one of the first to marvel at last year’s best pictures.

Every year, World Press Photo organises the largest photo contest in the world.

Thousands of professional photographers from all over the globe submit their best works. In February, an independent, international jury has chosen the best photo out of hundreds of thousands of images and decided which photographers deserve the prestigious World Press Photo Award.

General and spot news, sports action and features, nature, people in the news, contemporary issues, daily life, portraits, arts and entertainment - the World Press Photo of the Year will most definitely inspire, amaze, surprise and shock you.

From April 26 - June 23. After that, the exhibition goes on a worldwide tour. www.worldpressphoto.org

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Photo Ewout Huibers

nOT LOOKing TO THE sTArs, BUT TO....

The observatory is really very down to earth The oldest surviving observatory of the Netherlands is to be found in the Felix Meritis building (‘Happy through Merit’). Felix Meritis will this year celebrate its 225th birthday with a remarkable art installation on its roof.

The opening of the ‘Amsterdam of Above-Amsterdam of Below’ installation by the Amsterdam-Iraqi artist Joseph Semah will be on Thursday, April 18. From April 19 there will be guided tours for the public.

The installation trains the lenses of the telescopes not towards the heavens, but towards quotes adorning ten buildings in Amsterdam. All ten buildings can be seen from the observatory. On the building of the Dutch Central Bank (‘DNB’), for instance, you can read a quote by famous Portuguese-Dutch philosopher Spinoza: “Desire is the very essence of man”.

Felix Meritis opened its doors as a ‘Temple of Enlightenment’ in 1788. www.felix.meritis.nl

spring 2013

WE WiLL rOCK YOU Queen’s musical now in Amsterdam This year, the London production of the musical ‘We Will Rock You’ celebrates its 10th anniversary. After a successful theatre tour in the UK, the hit performance by Queen and Ben Elton is now touring the world for the first time. Among the countries on the list is the Netherlands, where the show can be seen at the Heineken Music Hall in Amsterdam.

‘We Will Rock You’ was written by Ben Elton in collaboration with Queen members Brian May and Roger Taylor.

The musical contains 24 of Queen’s legendary hits, such as ‘We Are the Champions’, ‘Killer Queen’, and... ‘We Will Rock You’, of course.

Ben Elton: “This show is all about legends. We took the legend of Queen and created our own fantastic story about young kids fighting the mighty corporations who want to suppress their individuality and love for music.”

April 11 – 13, 2013: start 20:00, www.heineken-music-hall.nl

‘24H’: WHAT’s THAT sUppOsED TO MEAn? Amsterdam presents itself nonstop in all five regions ‘24H’ is the collective name of all kinds of events and activities taking place in the five regions of the city this year, as part of the ‘400-Year Amsterdam’ celebrations. In the centre, the east, the south, the west and the north, each 24-hour event will start at midday on Saturday and finish at midday on Sunday.

The activities in the centre – including taxi drivers telling anecdotes and historical guided tours by night – have been and gone, unfortunately. But the activities in the east will be held during the weekend of March 23. On the Sunday morning, for instance, there will be a huge breakfast at Artis Zoo. ‘South’ will follow in June, ‘West’ in September and ‘North’ in October. The programme of these events is yet to be announced. www.iamsterdam.com

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W O R L D C L A S S T R AV E L E R S

David Beckham. A global icon who insists on perfection. Precision and style. A legend forged by accomplishments. On his wrist is the Breitling Transocean Chronograph Unitime, the ultimate traveler’s watch.

Manufacture Breitling Caliber B05, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, endorsed by a 5-year Breitling warranty. High-performance selfwinding chronograph. Universal time function enabling permanent readings of the time in all 24 timezones thanks to a patented mechanism and an ultra-user-friendly crown-operated correction system. Comfort and elegance for first-class travelers. Signed Breitling.

Advies winkelverkoopprijs €

9.820,-

kids in the city

text Bénédicte gruys

tHe HistOry OF scHOOLBAgs

tHe AMsterdAM MAriOnette tHeAtre

Practical object and status symbol

Talking dolls with voices from heaven The Amsterdam Marionette Theatre presents a unique form of theatre in the European tradition of the classical marionette. Puppeteers manipulate wooden actors – dolls dressed in silk and velvet costumes – while participating in various forms of music theatre. This year, ‘The Amazing Journey of Dr. Faust’ will be performed, a classical play full of humour and magic.

Artis tHe pArtis A famous but strange inhabitant of the Zoo

The theatre provides a very special form of musical experience for both adults and children. The performances are presented in Dutch, with English texts provided. The visual and musical character of the performance means that the language is no great barrier, especially for the kids.

The famous inhabitant and mascot of Amsterdam zoo Artis is ‘Artis de Partis’.

Artis de Partis is not an animal, although he’s likely to disagree with that assertion. But he’s not a person either and he is certainly not a scientist who can explain serious facts about animals and plants. So what or who is he? Artis de Partis isn’t sure either. And that is exactly why he is in Artis.

The Amsterdam Marionette Theatre performs in its unique, small theatre on Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8 in the Nieuwmarkt area. Sometimes performances are held elsewhere, in opera houses and during festivals, for instance.

Would you like to meet Artis de Partis?

Visit the Amsterdam Zoo. Artis is open every day of the year from 09:00 to 18:00. During the winter months (November through March) Artis is open until 17:00.

www.marionettetheatre.com

spring 2013

www.artis.nl/en/ artis-royal-zoo

Would you like to find out more about schoolbags and bags in general? Then a trip to the Museum of Bags and Purses is definitely worth some of your time.

Wooden schoolbags dating from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries are on display, as well as leather book bags and the canvas satchels and nylon rucksacks, which are so popular today.

The use, material and design of the schoolbag tell you a great deal about education and social developments.

Schoolbags today, for instance, are more than practical objects; they are status symbols.

The museum isn’t just about schoolbags, it is also about bags like the canvas army bag, which was originally used by American liberators during World War II. Or bags as a political statement: during the 60s people expressed their anger about society by personalising their bags with all kinds of stickers and slogans. And, of course, today’s designer bags can be found in the museum, too. www.museumofbagsandpurses. com (Exhibition about schoolbags from March 26 - September 15) 17 www.youinamsterdam.nl

hospitality text BénédicTe gruys eT Al. photography wiTh ThAnks To conTriBuTors

All TogeTher now Hotels join forces in celebrating 400 years of Amsterdam’s canals The canal ring of Amsterdam came into being in 1613, exactly 400 years ago. This milestone encouraged several hotels on the ring of canals in the city centre to start a unique initiative. While staying in one of the ‘Canal District Hotels’, you will receive a special gift. In addition, the hotels inform you about museums that give you an impression of life in Amsterdam from the ‘Golden Age’ (the 17th century) to the present day.

Also, they will recommend a special choice of ‘Canal District Restaurants’ that serve 17th century dishes and traditional drinks.

And, of course, these hotels point you in the right direction to enjoy the canals in luxury and open boats.

The participating hotels are: Ambassade Hotel, Andaz Amsterdam, Banks Mansion, Dikker & Thijs Fenice Hotel, Hotel Estheréa, Hotel Pulitzer, Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel, Hotel Seven one Seven and The Toren. www.amsterdamcanals2013.com

wesTcord ArT hoTel AmsTerdAm The presence of Brood can be felt The Art Hotel is proud to exhibit an extended series of never shown work by the famous Herman Brood, Amsterdam’s enfant terrible of the rock and art scene. The works were found in a safe after Brood’s tragic suicide in 2001. His hedonistic lifestyle of ‘sex, drugs and rock ‘n roll’ made not only him, but also his art, rather controversial.

The Art Hotel now introduces the ‘Herman Brood suite’ where you can enjoy his unique art completely on your own, or with good friends. In the Art Brasserie, restaurant ‘The Gallery’ and throughout the hotel you will see Brood’s colourful and expressive work.

Westcord Art Hotel, Spaarndammerdijk 302, T 020 410 9670 www.westcordhotels.nl

hoTel okurA Japanese cooking as it is meant to be Nowadays, many people are familiar with the customs of teppanyaki, the Japanese art of cooking on a hot griddle in front of the guests. ‘Teppanyaki’ literally means ‘grilled on an iron plate’ (‘teppan’ = iron plate, ‘yaki’ = grill). In Japan this is probably the oldest method of preparing food, invented when the Japanese grilled their fish on a shovel above an open fire. At Sazanka Restaurant of Hotel Okura Amsterdam, chef Nonakasan and his team demonstrate that their exquisite cooking is a far cry from the ‘show-and-throw’ spectacle often associated with the teppanyaki cuisine. Fish, meat and vegetarian dishes, side dishes and desserts are all presented with gastronomic allure, in which the quality of the ingredients is of central importance. Dining at Sazanka guarantees culinary enjoyment.

Hotel Okura Amsterdam, Ferdinand Bolstraat 333, T 020 678 7111 www.okura.nl www.sazanka.nl

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HOSPITALITY

The eden AmsTerdAm AmericAn hoTel

sofiTel legend The grAnd AmsTerdAm

Expressive and powerful paintings

Butler service as a traditional value

Its art-deco architecture and stainedglass windows give the Eden Amsterdam American Hotel its unique character. ‘The American’, as it is called, is well known for displaying the work of Dutch artists. This spring, artist Nelleke Boerrigter is proud to present her expressive and powerful paintings in the hotel.

After enjoying Boerrigter’s paintings, you could enjoy a delicious high tea in the stylish Café Americain (Monday to Saturday).

On Sunday, you might want to get the ‘lazy Sunday’ feeling during the famous weekly live jazz brunch.

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam is of great historical importance to the city.

From 1578 onwards, it was frequently visited by legendary persons like the French Queen Maria de Medici, Princess Mary Stuart of England and William of Orange, the founder of the Dutch royal family.

‘The Grand’ continues its royal tradition by offering a butler service to all its guests in the suites. The butlers of The Grand are the modern-day embodiment of old fashioned values. From welcoming unexpected guests to booking an evening meal in a favourite restaurant, the butler is always there, wherever, whenever and for whatever purpose guests might need him. The butlers know exactly when to be discrete in order to protect the privacy of their guests.

The Eden Amsterdam American Hotel, Leidsekade 97, T 020 556 3000 www.edenamsterdamamericanhotel.com

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197, T 020 555 3111 www.sofitel-legend-thegrand.com

spring 2013

hoTel ArTemis The ‘house of Dutch design’ Hotel Artemis is a hotel that is inspired by what we now know as ‘Dutch design’. Dutch artists are well known for strong, original shapes and a pragmatic approach to the use of new and surprising materials. Dutch design influences become evident in the lobby as well as in the hotel rooms of Hotel Artemis. Also, the geometric style of Dutch architects and artists like Mondrian, Dudok and Rietveld is reflected in the architecture of the building.

Throughout the hotel you will find privately owned design furniture by contemporary designers such as Marcel Wanders, Piet Hein Eek and Richard Hutten. These specially commissioned artworks are a part of the Artemis Art & Design private collection.

You can visit the exposition of these designers every day of the week. Entrance is free.

Hotel Artemis, John M. Keynesplein 2, T 020 714 1024 www.artemisamsterdam.com

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For the very First time in the netherlands

Queen’s Day makes way for king’s Day

This year’s Queen’s Day, The TraDiTional naTional holiDay celebraTing The DuTch monarchy since 1885, is going To be a very special occasion inDeeD. her royal highness Queen beaTrix of The neTherlanDs will abDicaTe from The Throne anD her son, his royal highness prince willem-alexanDer, prince of orange-nassau, will be inauguraTeD as King.

text robin glendenning photography rVd et al.

Page 20 & 21 Queen’s Day festivities on the canals. As you can see, this day there really is only one colour: the colour of the House of Orange-Nassau!

(Courtesy of Amsterdam Marketing) Page 23 top Her Majesty Queen Beatrix.

Although she has always taken an avid interest in politics and advised numerous Dutch prime ministers, Queen Beatrix has preferred to keep a relatively low profile and aspired to a normal, unpretentious and domestic lifestyle. (Courtesy of NOS, Mike van Breemen) Page 23 below July 5, 2010: photo session with Princess Alexia, the Prince of Orange, Princess Catharina-Amalia, Princess Ariane and Princess Máxima.

(Courtesy of the RVD)

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n April 30, after precisely 33 years on the throne following her mother’s abdication in 1980, Queen Beatrix will make way in favour of her son, Crown-Prince Willem-Alexander. He will be the first king of the Netherlands since the death of his great- great grandfather, King Willem III, in 1890. His wife, Princess Máxima the most popular member of the Dutch royal family, will become Queen Máxima and their eldest daughter, Princess Catharina-Amalia, will become the heir apparent to the Dutch throne. riding her bicycle The Kingdom of the Netherlands has been an independent constitutional monarchy since March 16 1815, after the decline and eventual fall of the Dutch Republic and the defeat of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1813. It has been governed by members of the House of OrangeNassau ever since.

The Dutch monarch, as head of state, has many duties and responsibilities under the Dutch constitution. S/he is officially a member of the Dutch cabinet and until 2012 had the right of initiative in proposing who should try to form a government in the country’s complex coalition system. Although she has always taken an avid interest in politics and advised numerous Dutch prime ministers, Queen Beatrix has preferred to keep a relatively low profile and aspired to a normal, unpretentious and domestic lifestyle. It has not been unheard of, for instance, to spot her riding her bicycle in The Hague. And on Queen’s Day, she has traditionally visited Dutch towns and villages and mingled with her subjects, chatting and indulging in tea, coffee and cakes.

Visiting police officers Queen Juliana abdicated from the Dutch throne on April 30, 1980. On that same day, as the constitution prescribes, her daughter Princess Beatrix was inaugurated as Queen at six minutes past ten in the morning. Unfortunately, the festive ceremony in the Nieuwe Kerk on Dam Square was marred by rioting in the streets of Amsterdam. As the fresh Queen Beatrix began her inauguration speech, police came to blows with protestors who seized the occasion to voice their dissatisfaction with all kinds of social wrongs in her kingdom. At the end of the evening, more than 100 civilians and 93 police officers were wounded. The following day, the queen’s first official visit was to seven police officers in hospital.

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Her Royal Highness Princess Máxima of the Netherlands in 2011. Princess Máxima, the wife of Willem-Alexander, is very popular among the Dutch. (Courtesy of Erwin Olaf)

Moving words Queen’s Day was first celebrated as Princess’s Day on the 5th birthday of Princess Wilhelmina, on August 31 1885. When she accessed to the throne in 1890, the holiday became known as Koninginnedag (Queen’s Day). When Juliana became Queen in 1948, Queen’s Day moved to her birthday, April 30, and although her daughter, present Queen Beatrix was born on January 31, she has chosen – by way of tribute – to celebrate it on her mother’s birthday. During her inauguration speech, she turned to her mother and spoke the following moving words: “Dear mother, today is your birthday. In deep gratefulness for all we have received from you, this day – in the future, too – shall be associated with your wisdom, your compassion, your motherly love. For this day shall remain: Queen’s Day!” Let Me go back to aMsterdaM Queen’s day in the Netherlands is a national holiday. The country turns into a huge market.

During the vrijmarkt, as it is called, the Dutch let down their hair (often dying it orange), sell their second-hand bric-a-brac, stage all manner of performances and generally dance and party in the streets from morning till night. You cannot avoid the celebrations – not that you’d want to – but if you’re in Amsterdam with your children on Queen’s day, be sure to go to the Vondelpark. Here, adults are prohibited from having a stall and the entire park is given over to the kids. Fun and games, face-painting, lots of toys and lots of sweets and treats.... the kids will remember it for the rest of their lives and badger you to return to Amsterdam for Queen’s Day for evermore. it’s... king’s day!

The tradition is set to continue, as future King Willem-Alexander has announced that from 2014, King’s Day will be celebrated on his own birthday, April 27. (Since that is a Sunday in 2014, this first year it will actually be on April 26.) It is likely that the day’s character will remain unchanged; he will visit two locations every year, this year the town of Amstelveen and the village of Graft-De Rijp, the places Queen Beatrix was planning to visit on April 30.

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1. Many people dress up on Queen’s Day, some as... the Queen. (Courtesy of Amsterdam Marketing) 2.This little dog is having his day, too! (Courtesy of Amsterdam Marketing) 3.The Vondelpark, a wellknown park for Amsterdamers, is strictly for the kids on Queen’s Day. (Courtesy of Amsterdam Marketing)

no coronation Although the traditional symbols of royalty will be present during the ceremony in the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church), as well as the king’s sword to demonstrate his power, the crown is not placed on the new monarch’s head. (It is never worn at all, in fact.) The ceremony, in addition to being secular although it is held in a church, is therefore an inauguration rather than a coronation.

• Afterwards, King Willem-Alexander and (now) Queen Máxima will appear on the balcony with their three daughters, Princesses CatharinaAmalia, Alexia and Ariane.

What’s happening on april 30?

• King Willem-Alexander will swear allegiance to the Dutch Constitution.

The representatives of the people will each declare that they will protect all the rights of the King and guarantee his total immunity. That last term lies at the heart of the Dutch constitutional monarchy: the sovereign operates under full responsibility of the ministers.

• In the morning, Queen Beatrix will sign the Act of Abdication at the Royal Palace on Dam Square.

• Immediately afterwards, before the inauguration ceremony, Willem-Alexander will constitutionally be the new king.

Beatrix will be Princess Beatrix again, preferring that title to the other option, Queen-Mother.

• A few hours after the balcony scene, the new head of state will go to the Nieuwe Kerk, where members of the two houses of parliament will be holding a combined meeting.

• The former queen and new king will subsequently appear on the balcony of the palace for a brief speech.

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the longest catwalk of the Netherlands

P.C. Hooftstraat:

luxury sHoPPing

in designer Heaven

Located in the very heart of amsterdam’s fashion district and prosperous neighbourhood ‘Zuid’, p.c. hooftstraat (or ‘pc’ as it is caLLed by LocaLs) truLy offers everything your heart desires. from upscaLe design houses such as chaneL, gucci, Louis vuitton, giorgio armani, hermes, vaLentino, burberry or michaeL Kors to muLti-brand stores offering a fine seLection of very many sought-after brands.

text constanze fluhme photography peter leeuwerink and contributors

Page 27 P.C. Hooftstraat: a nice mixture of ‘PC Tractors’ and... bikes.

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he street got its name in 1876, in honour of Pieter Corneliszoon Hooft (1581-1647), a poet, drama writer and historian. Nowadays, P.C. Hooftstraat is a playground for the rich and famous, who can be spotted regularly at one of the sidewalk cafes or high end shops. Watch out for the so-called ‘PC Tractors’, the big SUVs that dominate the narrow thoroughfare!

Once a year fashion glossy ‘Grazia’ is featuring the longest free-seated front row catwalk of the Netherlands (length 350 m) on P.C. Hooftstraat, the ‘PC Catwalk’. The front row offers 1200 seats, which are free to all. 100 models with more than 180 looks are presenting the latest fashion of international brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Lanvin, Etro, Corneliani, Celine or Burberry.

All the more reason to take you to what the Dutch consider to be their most famous shopping street. YOU in Amsterdam suggests a fine selection of stores you definitely should consider.

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1. The PC Catwalk: 100 models with more than 180 looks.

2. Timeless elegance at Mulberry.

3. Strong, feminine and stylish: Escada.

ESCADA Strong, feminine and stylish, that is what Escada stands for. The German fashion brand was born in 1978 and is famous for the use of strong colours and opulent fabrics. In 2010 the brand was refreshed, which is reflected not only in the fashion items but also in the interior of the stores.

The Escada store in Amsterdam opened its doors in 2011. Here you find everything from red carpet wear to beautiful jeans and amazing shoes. A great outfit for every occasion!

MULBERRY The Mulberry store has re-opened after undergoing a complete transformation! From now on, the beautiful iconic handbags, like the famous ‘Bayswater’ or ‘Alexa’, as well as the high fashion collection of amazing clothes, shoes and acces-

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sories are presented in a totally new spotlight. The design concept for the store is based on Mulberry’s dynamic new retail concept, which reflects the many facets of the brand’s identity: heritage, craftsmanship, modernity and innovation. The store is a marriage of two complementary ideas.

‘The Garden’ is home to high-fashion bags and all of the latest trends in accessories. ‘The Drawing Room’ is a heaven for heritage fans who love a timeless, elegant layout. Mulberry is the perfect place to buy a luxurious gift for men and women.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA BOUTIQUE A real gentleman always looks complete in an outfit of the Italian brand Ermenegildo Zegna. Shopping at the stylish Zegna boutique will give you a lot of pleasure for sure. The splendid shop design

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1. Film actress Demi Moore was thrilled when she first saw CaffePC on the P.C. Hooftstraat: “I love this place, it’s beautiful, it looks like a picture!”

2. Ermenegildo Zegna’s Boutique, here with some insight into the 2013 collection. Visit the P.C. Hooftstraat for some ‘hands on’ experience!

3. Where are you? Somewhere in the universe where shoes revolve around you like planets? At Shoebaloo this is indeed the case.

4. Visiting Tiffany & Co in Amsterdam is an experience in itself.

SPrINg 2013

by the architects Gianmaria and Roberto Beretta, as well as the use of pure materials, underline the timeless style and subtle elegance of Ermenegildo Zegna’s heritage. Here you can find Ermenegildo Zegna Couture (amazing suits), Made to Measure and Zegna Sport (leisure wear).

SHOEBALOO For shoes there’s one address you shouldn’t miss out on: Shoebaloo. Not only because of the amazing choice of designer shoes and handbags, but also because of the unique experience of the interior design of the store, created by the Dutch architects Meijer & Van Schooten. The store on P.C. Hooftstraat sells the trendiest brands for both men and women. It is a true paradise for all shoe lovers, with collections of Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Dior, Charlotte Olympia, Alexander McQueen, Celine, Dsquared and many more beautiful brands.

TIFFANY & CO Over the past two centuries, Tiffany has built an international reputation as a premier jeweller and the ultimate source of gifts for life’s most cherished occasions. In December 2009, Tiffany & Co opened its first store in the Netherlands, on ‘The PC’. If Amsterdam is getting you in the mood to pop the question you will know where to find the ring for this special occasion.

CAFFEPC What’s a shopping day without a glass of champagne? The best place to enjoy your bubbles is CaffePC, the place to see and be seen, in a 1970s décor designed by Eric Kuster, with lots of dark brown wood and metallic details. Film actress Demi Moore was thrilled when she first saw it: “I love this place, it’s beautiful, it looks like a picture!” CaffePC offers nice food as well as a bunch of fashion and lifestyle magazines to leaf through. So give your feet a rest, relax, and enjoy!

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Black-and-powder pink interior at ‘candy store’ Agent Provocateur.

AGENT PROVOCATEUR The popular and sexy lingerie brand Agent Provocateur has finally settled in Amsterdam and recently opened its ‘candy store’ for adults on the P.C.Hooftstraat. The classic black-and-powder pink interior and antique furniture in baroque style with soft lighting invites you to try on the most delicate lace sets, sweet baby dolls and racy tights.

Agent Provocateur was founded by Joseph Corre and his now ex-wife Serena Rees. Joseph is the son of Vivienne Westwood and the late Malcolm McLaren (former manager of the British punk band ‘The Sex Pistols’). In 1994 the first Agent Provocateur boutique was founded in London’s famous Soho district. Sexy lingerie with a stirring wink soon went like hot cakes.

Finally this great brand of really tasteful and stylish lingerie is also available in the Netherlands!

AZZURRO FASHION GROUP If you are looking for a one-stop shop where you can find the perfect outfit for day, night, work or leisure, one of the Azzurro Stores will be your heaven on

earth. Since decades Azzurro, like no other, knows how to dress the Dutch female and her kids.

Each of the stores has a contemporary ‘look & feel’ and offers the trendiest collections. If you are looking for uptown chic as well as brands like Tom Ford, Barbara Bui or Christian Louboutin, visit Azzuro on P.C. Hooftstraat 142.

If you are looking for the leading fashion designers of the moment, like Alexander Wang, Rachel Zoe or Isabel Marant, you’d better be off to Azzurro Due on P.C. Hooftstraat 138. This store is introducing an exciting combination of fashion, design and architecture in a new store concept.

Recently a new store for men has opened its doors.

At ‘Four’, stylish men find the labels of the moment, like Balenciaga, Vans Vault or Faliero Sarti. Please visit P.C. Hooftstraat 127.

Looking for brands like Baby Dior, Patrizia Pepe or Tartine et Chocolat for your little one? You can make the look of your children complete at Azzurro Kids on P.C. Hooftstraat 122.

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sales information

If you are looking for a one-stop shop where you can find the perfect outfit for day, night, work or leisure, one of the Azzurro Stores will be your heaven on earth.

escada P.C. Hooftstraat 43 www.escada.com Mulberry P.C. Hoofstraat 46 www.mulberry.com erMenegildo Zegna boutique P.C. Hooftstraat 76 www.zegna.com

due

shoebaloo P.C. Hooftstraat 80 www.shoebaloo.nl tiffany & co P.C. Hooftstraat 86 & 88 www.tiffany.com caffePc P.C. Hooftstraat 87 www.unlimitedlabel.com

Four

Azzurro

agent Provocateur P.C. Hooftstraat 98 www.agentprovocateur.com aZZurro fashion grouP P.C. Hooftstraat 142 (Azzurro) P.C. Hooftstraat 138 (Azzurro Due) P.C. Hooftstraat 127 (Four) P.C. Hooftstraat 122 (Azzurro Kids) www.azzurrofashiongroup.nl

Kids spring 2013

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‘OPENSHELF’ CABINET | 2008 | STUDIO JO MEESTERS

STORES IN AMSTERDAM: BEETHOVENSTRAAT 9 · KALVERSTRAAT 179 · PC HOOFTSTRAAT 130 · BIJENKORF - DAM 1 SHOP ONLINE CLAUDIASTRATER.COM

YSL

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Lanvin

New Collection Summer 2013 Now Available

SPECTACULAR SALE 30% - 70%

SENZA offers you a wide range of Famous International Designer Brands. There is choice of Designer bags, belts, shoes, accessories and clothing for men and ladies for a very good price. We are located in Amsterdam Centre, Âą250 m south of Madame Tussaud / Dam Square, on the Rokin, next to the DUNGEON and the ING Bank.

Our multilangual staff will give you the best & friendliest service and advice.

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Open 7 days a week from 10:00 -19:00 (Thursday till 21:00, Monday and Sunday open from 12:00) SENZA, Rokin 82, Amsterdam Tel: +31 (0) 20-5305030 For Non EU customers we offer a TAX REFUND More luxury brands online www. e -senzaz.com

AmsterdAm’s gAble stones Are everywhere

Each a LittLE DocumEnt of history

Page 34 & 35 Dedicated hands sculpted this gable stone of ‘T Huys Tvreest’, to be found on the last house on Olofssteeg.

Despite efforts by numerous enthusiasts, the 18th century ship of this name has never been discovered in the archives.

Page 37 top Set in the sidewall at the end of the Olofssteeg, this lovely scene depicts Noah, his wife, three sons and three daughters-in-law heading towards the Ark in order to escape the flood.

A gable stone such as this could have been a simple expression of the owner’s faith. However, it could also be a sign promoting a ship builder, or a wine producer, as Noah was the first person ever recorded to produce wine.

Page 37 below In 1622, the Dutch ship Leeuwin (Female lion) first explored the west coast of Australia. Today, Cape Lewin is the most southwesterly mainland point of the continent. The stone, which is not at its original location, can be found in the sidewall of the last house along Olofssteeg, where, incidentally, eight other gable stones from different locations around town have been collected.

Gable stones have adorned buildinGs for centuries. sometimes their meaninG is quite apparent; sometimes it can only be Guessed at by anyone other than a professional. always, however, there is somethinG special and intriGuinG about these documents from the past.

text robin glendenning photography robin glendenning

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t’s very much like a huge museum, the old city-centre of Amsterdam within the famous ring of four canals. It is open to the elements, so you may need to be dressed up for it, but it is also open 24/7, so you can see and experience much of what made the town so important, wealthy and loved whenever you like. Walking is best, as it affords you the time and opportunity to stop and look closer, since the canals, narrow streets and alleyways bring something new at every turn. There are innumerable sights at which to marvel, but be sure to take in the magnificent gable stones set into many of the façades and sidewalls of the buildings you pass. They’re a great record of what went on inside, and of what went on in Mediaeval city life in general. important purpose As with most things, gable stones, or gable signs, served a very important purpose. The streets and canals of the old town readily had their names, but to get to exactly where they wanted to be, visitors identified individual houses, workshops and businesses by gable stones. They didn’t use numbers as we do today until the end of the 18th century. Before that, official documents relating to a property referred to it by its gable stone, or the gable stone set into the property next door, or opposite if the property didn’t boast its own.

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It was strictly forbidden to change gable stones

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1. ‘De liefde boven al’, Love above all, on Enge Kerksteeg 4, is a modern reconstruction of a 16th century gable stone celebrating the divine virtues faith, hope and love.

2. ‘Dit is in den swarten horen’, This is in the Black Horn, set between Zeedijk 16 and 18. It is the oldest gable stone to still adorn a building along a public street in Amsterdam, and was mentioned in a municipal bond as early as 1546.

3. In de War, a fantastic sculpture and the prime example of a modern gable stone dating from 2002, to be found on Warmoesstraat 62.

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Picturesque and charmingly Dutch, the buildings of Amsterdam are often hundreds of years old. Most are regular houses and shops now, but they were often built as factories and warehouses. You can come across gable stones on them featuring almost anything from a simple, rudimentary bird to an entire, intricately sculpted, biblical scene. Mainly, though, the depiction relates to the trade or craft that the owner of the property practised inside. public house High up on Sint Olofssteeg 8, for example, you’ll see a gable stone with a barrel. A barrel maker’s workshop? For all intents and purposes it could have been, but we know that the owner of a previous building on this site was a beer merchant. He probably ran a public house (a pub) here, too. The old building was called Jopenvat, ‘Jopen’ being a beer brewed in the city of Haarlem and vat meaning vat, or barrel. And when, for whatever reason, the building we admire today replaced it in 1659, the gable stone was spared and set into the new façade.

This was no nostalgic, or culturally aware tradition. It was strictly forbidden to change or alter gable stones, as they would lose their legal meaning and function, opening the door to property fraud. What was permitted, and done often, is that the old gable stone would be remade to meet the more contemporary tastes of the undoubtedly wealthy and successful person erecting the new house. Its original name and scene, however, was set in stone belonging to the previous house – and because of this, there are plenty of ‘new’ 18th century gable stones to be found with elaborate, baroque frames, but with scenes that refer back directly to a house name predating it by centuries. ’black horn’ One gable stone that has survived numerous renovations over the centuries untouched is the Swarte Hoorn (Black Horn), which can be admired at Zeedijk 16-18. This large square stone depicting a black drinking horn hung by a small belt to a hook was renovated in

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1. Het Jopenvat, the gable stone adorning the house of a 16 th century beer merchant on Sint Olofssteeg 8.

2 & 3. When someone built two identical houses, each would be given a related gable stone, like these sun and moon signs that used to adorn Lepelstraat 20 and 20a, houses that were demolished in 1926.

They are now set in the sidewall of the last house in Olofssteeg.

4. ‘s Hertogen Bosch, a view of the Mediaeval town of Den Bosch (also nowadays spelled as ‘s-Hertogenbosch). Den Bosch is located 95 km south of Amsterdam.

Often, an owner would depict his hometown if he had moved from there, or the town from whence his produce came if he was a merchant.

1991, but it is the oldest gable stone to still adorn a building along a public street in Amsterdam, and was mentioned in a municipal bond as early as 1546. Ironically, the horn was painted red for a week in 1991 because the painter thought it was a post horn and post horns in this country are red.

Not a capital offense nowadays, altering a gable sign, but the error was hastily remedied nevertheless.

As house numbering became the norm and the formal naming function of gable stones disappeared, so too did the gable stones themselves.

They simply stopped being made. Sadly, apart from the few that found their way into museums, when a new building replaced an old one in the 19th century, the old gable stone would invariably be destroyed and thrown on a pile with the rest of the old masonry work, to be used as rubble foundations.

Modest revival There has been a modest revival since the early 20th century. In the Warmoesstraat, on the back of the 1913 Beurs van Berlage (the Dutch stock exchange), a triptych comprising three terracotta tile tableaux remembers the buildings that were demolished to create room for Amsterdam’s new future as a financial hub. And a little further down

spring 2013

Warmoesstraat is a very contemporary gable stone: an amazingly sculpted length of tangled cord above the inscription ‘In de War’. It was set in the façade of no. 62 in 2002 as a gift from the winners of the Stadsbeeldprijs (Cityscape Prize) to its awarders, an organisation that supports the upkeep of architectural cultural heritage. In Dutch, to be in de war means to be tangled, or confused.

It’s sense winks down at you in the street, too: ‘war’ is part of the word ‘warmoes’, which is Old Dutch for vegetable market. Undoubtedly this is what gave this street its name. perfectly harMless Gable stones can be found all around the centre and in a number of museums, but another lovely area to wander around and see a lot of them close together is the Jordaan, the other ‘oldest’ old part of town. The signs mentioned in this article are concentrated in the Warmoesstraat/Zeedijk area, where there are many more tucked away in the little connecting streets and alleyways. Don’t be daunted by the traders, they’re perfectly harmless. When I photographed the beautifully worked basket, De Verghulde Wan gable stone in the very narrow Enge Kerksteeg, a lady looked on just centimetres from me behind the glass. What should be on a gable stone fashioned for her?

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NEW IN SEASON A SHARP LOOK ON THE GOLF COURSE For people who visit the golf course regularly, Adidas eyewear introduces the ideal golf glasses. The Tourpro integrates perfect vision in a stylish model. Thanks to the specially developed LST™ filters, the Tourpro guarantees a sharp look on any golf course. Both professional golfers, such as the American Dustin Johnson, and amateur golfers can confidently enter the fairway with these latest sports glasses.

The Tourpro is available at selected opticians and sports shops from ¤ 148. www.adidas.com/eyewear

A FASHION COLLECTION OF MAGICAL PRINTS ‘People of the Labyrinths’ designed a special fashion collection of ‘magical prints’. These magical prints, meant for both women and men, draw inspiration from across the globe to give you Bangladeshi blanket embroidery, leaf skeletons mixed with ‘Delft Blue’ (Dutch porcelain) and old American civil war flags. The whole collection can be experienced

THE FINEST LADIES’ FASHION

at: POTL Shop, Van Baerlestraat 42-44, Amsterdam

Van Ravenstein is all about the finest ladies’ fashion. This season, you will

www.labyrinths.nl

find great pieces by the following designers at Van Ravenstein: Dries van Noten, Peter Pilotto, Jil Sander, Paul Harnden, Veronique Leroy, Christopher Kane, Maison Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Mary Katrantzou and Erdem. New this season, are Haider Ackermann and Julien David. On top of all that, Van Ravenstein has a broad range of Balenciaga clothing and bags, too. The most popular bag this season is undoubtedly the Balenciaga Giant Mini City.

Van Ravenstein, Keizersgracht 359, Amsterdam www.van-ravenstein.nl

RAINBOW OF DIAMONDS The American jewellery house Tiffany & Co. celebrates its 175th anniversary this year. Tiffany was founded in 1837 and offers an exclusive collection of diamond

COLOURFUL IPHONE? TAKE A SLEEVE! Freitag introduces the Super Protection Sleeve, which fits like an old, familiar coat but protects your trendy iPhone like no other. The soft lining cleans your screen each time you put your smartphone into the sleeve. You can answer the phone in an instant by pulling the colourful easy-exit tear strip. The F28 Sleeve for iPhone ® 5 is available at a suggested retail price of ¤ 43. www.freitag.ch

engagement and wedding rings alongside other gorgeous items of jewellery, watches, gifts and accessories.

To celebrate its 175th anniversary, Tiffany & Co. has launched a collection featuring rare, coloured diamonds called ‘Colors of Wonder’. The collection consists of a magical rainbow of jewels, from mint green to blue glacial to pink.

Tiffany & Co, P.C. Hooftstraat 86-88, Amsterdam www.nl.tiffany.com

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NECKLACE FOR 400 YEARS OF CANALS A limited edition brass necklace reproduces a part of the map of Amsterdam, that is to say: exactly the part where gift shop Saskya & Co is situated: on the corner of Stromarkt and the Singel canal. The necklaces have been designed by Josephine Colsen and are made in a limited edition because of a special occasion: the Amsterdam canal ring is celebrating its 400th anniversary. saskya & Co, stromarkt 5, Amsterdam www.saskyasouvenirs.nl

YOUR OWN AMSTERDAM BARTENDER ON LOCATION Bols, founded in 1575, is the world’s oldest brand of distilled drinks. Bols is based in Amsterdam and offers a training facility for both professionals and amateurs who want to know more about becoming most exotic cocktails. Nowadays, it is also possible

NUMBER 7 AS YOUR MAGICAL GIFT

to hire a ‘Bols Bartender and Bar’ on location, a

The number 7 has something magical for

professional highlight for any party and event. Do

the founder of My7Ways, Astrid Beerkens.

you want to know more about cocktail shaking?

Beerkens designs special gifts based on the

Then visit the House of Bols Cocktail & Genever

seven colours of the rainbow, gifts that are

Experience and the Bols Bartending Academy for a

meant for both women and men. Red, orange,

cocktail workshop and a tour through the fascinat-

yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet - the

ing world of cocktails and bartending. Both are

colours of the rainbow have the sole purpose

located in Amsterdam.

of giving you happiness. Bags, body care,

www.bols.com

perfumes and jewellery... they are all part of

a perfect bartender who can make (shake...) the

the collection you will find at My7Ways. Is your purchase a gift for somebody else? Then you have the option to add a personal message on the packaging. All the products are manufactured by local companies in Portugal.

In this way, Astrid Beerkens aims to support the development of the local population.

My7Ways, runstraat 22, Amsterdam www.my7ways.com

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the people of the labyrinths

aMsterDaM watch coMpany

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f you happen to be in Amsterdam don’t miss the beautiful shop of THE PEOPLE OF THE LABYRINTHS downtown near the Stedelijk Museum. You’ll be amazed by the magical colors and unique designs of this highly exclusive hand-printed, hand-dyed collection for women and men. A star collection for the happy few who recognize the inspiration of art in fashion. To give you a complete picture of the tempting world of THE PEOPLE OF THE LABYRINTHS the home store also shows a wide choice of their interior collection.

A must for every fashion lover and a joy to visit.

Open 7 days a week!

Wco has been buying and selling rare and exclusive watches all over the world for the last ten years and is known for its passion for vintage. Some of the most sought-after vintage models from brands such as Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe, IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre can be found in their store, all serviced by expert watchmakers prior to being displayed and sold with a one year warranty.

Additionally, AWco is authorized dealer of the Dutch watchmakers Christiaan van der Klaauw and Roland Oostwegel and one of a handful dealers worldwide for the German D. Dornblüth & Sohn. Did you know that Amsterdam Watch company was selected best vintage watch shop of Amsterdam?

Open Tue-Fri 11.00 - 18.00; Sat 11.00 - 17.00 hours.

de9heren

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en’s accessories must-haves & gifts, selling Inverni, Orlebar Brown, WANT Les essentiels de la Vie, Von Eusersdorff fragrances, Wallmark, Werkstatt Muenchen, Goti, Gem Kingdom, Swims, Royalties-Paris and many more exclusive brands.

Tue. - Sat. 11.00-18.00 Sun 12.00-17.00 Mon Closed DE9HEREn Berenstraat 22 1016 GH Amsterdam T. +31 20 330 08 28 www.de9heren.nl

Van Baerlestraat 42-44 1071 AZ Amsterdam T. 020 - 664 07 79 www.labyrinths.nl

Reestraat 3 1016 DM Amsterdam T. + 31 (0) 20 389 27 89 www.awco.nl

reuter DiaMonDs

geM KingDoM

western house

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euter Diamonds is the leader among the diamond firms in Amsterdam. Owned and operated by the same family for six generations, specialized in diamond jewelry and everything produced by our own team of goldsmiths. We are also the official dealer for Swiss watches such as: Cartier, Breitling, IWC, Jaeger Lecoultre, Officine Panerai and Tag Heuer. We welcome you in a serene and friendly environment, seven days a week.

21 % Tax free for non-EU residents.

Opening hours: Mon 12:00–17:30; Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat 10:15–17:30; Thu 10:15–20:30; Sun 12:30–17:15 Reuter Diamonds Kalverstraat 165 1012 XB Amsterdam T. +31 20 623 35 00 www.reuterdiamonds.nl info@ reuterdiamonds.nl

ewelry in a rich and original style, handmade in Amsterdam.

Each design embodies contrasts such as primal yet sophisticated, the ethnic and the ultra modern, history and future, resulting in jewelry with a personal touch and feel.

Sterling silver, gemstones, mother of pearl, engraved crystals, porcelain, and rare and odd materials are blended in designs that breath individuality.

Mon. 12:00 - 18:00 Tue. - Fri. 11:00 - 18:00 Sat. 10:00 - 18:00 Sun Closed Huidenstraat 13 1016 ER Amsterdam T. 020 - 620 21 93 www.gemkingdom.com www.gemkingdomshop.com

estern Boots, bags and belts from Sendra.

Largest selection in Europe. More than 500 styles and at least 6000 pairs of boots in stock.

Also exotic boots made of lizard, snake, crocodile, ostrich and shark skin.

Opening hours: Monday through Saturday 10.00 - 18.00 Sunday 12.00 - 18.00 On Line Store: www.westernhouse.com 3 minutes or 240 meters walking distance from Damsquare/Bijenkorf!

12 minutes or 1000 meters walking distance from Central Station!

Oude Doelenstraat 6-8 1012 ED Amsterdam T. 020 - 622 33 29 info@westernhouse.com

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G&G special sizes

DUTCHiEs

The specialist in extra tall and large-sized men’s clothing.

Tax free.

ive a girl a handbag and she can conquer the world.

If you like bags, you will love Dutchies. It’s the only store where this Dutch brand is available. Dutchies offers feminine and colorful handbags, blending timeless and classic design elements with modern fashion sensibilities. All this also applies to the accessories. Each model is created in a limited edition of ten, using the highest quality leather and suede.

You can park your car at only 80 meters away, at our expense

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Tax-free shopping.

All cards accepted. Complimentary coffee.

All major credit cards accepted Closed on Monday

Opening hours: Monday 1300 - 1800 Tuesday-Saturday 11.00 - 18.00 Sunday 14.00 - 17.00

Prinsengracht 514 1017 KJ Amsterdam T. 020 - 622 63 39 www.ggspecialsizes.com

Runstraat 27 1016 GJ Amsterdam T. 020 - 626 30 01 info@dutchiesdesign.nl

Spring-Summer 2013 DRIES vAn nOTEn PETER PILOTTO JuLIEn DAvID JIL SAnDER PAuL HARnDEn vEROnIquE LEROy CHRISTOPHER KAnE HAIDER ACKERMAnn MAISOn MARTIn MARGIELA Ann DEMEuLEMEESTER MARy KATRAnTzOu BALEnCIAGA ERDEM Keizersgracht 359, 1016 EJ Amsterdam T. 020 - 639 00 67 www.van-ravenstein.nl

SHOPPING

Bugatti Polo Ralph Lauren Pierre Cardin Gardeur Camel Paul & Shark

VAn rAVEnsTEin

Opening hours: Mo 13 - 18hr Tu, We, Fr 11 - 18hr Th 11 - 19hr Sat 10.30 - 17.30hr

simply legendary.

the best burger in town

partner your legendary burger with a heineken for your chance to win a meal for two at any european hard rock cafe*

100 meals for two at hard rock cafe* also up for grabs!

That six-string on the wall isn’t just a guitar and our ‘Legendary’ isn’t just a burger!

Made in-house daily and cooked using the finest ingredients - it’s a legend, and has been for almost four decades! Spicy Chipotle Pepper puree and topped with Jack cheese? Hickory Bar-B-Que sauce and smothered with caramelized onions?

Or how about laced and grilled with our spicy Buffalo sauce and Cajun seasoning then topped with crumbled blue cheese and a crisp fried onion ring? No matter how high you like your burger or what you like it stacked with we have the one for you!

amsterdam max euweplein 57- 61 • +31 20 5237625 • hardrock.com *Prize available at Hard Rock Cafe Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Brussels, Cologne, Copenhagen, Edinburgh, Florence, Lisbon, London, Madrid, Manchester, Munich, Paris, Prague, Rome, Venice. Conditions apply, visit hardrock.com for details. ©2012 Hard Rock International (USA), Inc. All rights reserved.

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Betsy palmer amsterdam

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ust around the corner from the DIAMOND CENTRE on Dam Square in the heart of Amsterdam, BETSY PALMER is a Girls’ Dream come true. This Ladies’ Paradise for fashionable shoes sells feasts-for–feet you always wished to wear but could never find before!

Different in every aspect, the silver-walled Rokin store has a Big City atmosphere, yet offers Sweet Small Town Service by friendly shoe-crazy girls. Basic Business and Serious Partying, Feminine Elegance and Comfortable City Strollers, Sexy Chic, Gala Vamp or Sturdy Walks in the Woods, you’ll find shoes for all your Girls at Betsy’s.

Betsy Palmer Amsterdam Rokin 9 - 15 / OUTLET v. Woustraat 46 T. 020 - 422 10 40 / T. 020 - 470 97 95 www.betsypalmer.com

foto professional

reypeNaer CHeese tastING

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A

oto Professional is a photo store located in the centre of Amsterdam for over thirty five years.

We offer the biggest collection digital photo and video cameras in Amsterdam.

We are dealer in Leica, Nikon, Canon, Hasselblad, Panasonic, Sony, Olympus, Pentax, Samsung, JVC, Fuji, and Ricoh.

Our assortment starts from point and shoot cameras up to pro digital S.L.R. cameras, basic video cameras up to professional HDV videocameras use for TV and movie productions. We also stock a complete line of accesoires from batteries to memory cards, tapes to video lights and microphones.

Nieuwendijk 113 1012 MD Amsterdam T. 020 - 624 60 24 info@fotoprofessional.nl www.fotoprofessional.nl

t Reypenaer Cheese Tasting you can personally test and evaluate the flavor, aromas, characteristics and quality of the cheeses, under the guidance of an expert cheese taster. A cheese tasting lasts approximately one hour (maximally 20 people per tasting). Price € 15,- p.p. - is including wine arrangement Opening hours : Sunday and Monday 12.00 - 18.00; Tuesday - Saturday 10.00 - 18.00 From 7th September 2012 online booking possible Reypenaer Proeflokaal / Cheese Tasting Singel 182, 1015 AJ Amsterdam T +31 (0)20 320 6333 www.reypenaer.com

Jewellery • Diamonds • Watches

This modern giftshop is since 2005 situated on the right side of the Renaissance hotel, near the Koepelkerk and the smallest house on the Singel. You will find here a fine selection of Dutch souvenirs made in Holland. The owner Saskia Budding makes the choice of the best design quality gifts only available in this shop.

Rokin 123, 1012 KP Amsterdam. Between DAM square and MUNT Tower.

Phone: +31 (0)20 627 26 25 E-mail: info@milldiamonds.com www.milldiamonds.com

Hand made bags from bicycle tires, foamor slipper clogs, jewellery made from former Dutch money, aprons made from traditional fabric from Volendam and Tshirts with a bicycle print. Exclusive: the M.C. Escher and The Tradewind Treasures collection. Saskya & Co offers you personal attention and beautifull wrapped gifts.

Opening times: 11.00-18.00 hrs (incl. weekends) Thursday 11.00-19.00 hrs Stromarkt 5 / 1012 SW Amsterdam / Tel: 020 - 420 0840 www.saskyasouvenirs.nl - shop@saskyasouvenirs.nl

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YOU

Should take a cruise!

A la carte Dinner Cruise

Enjoy our 4 course a la carte dinner cruise: the most romantic restaurant in town!

Every Friday, Saturday & Sunday at 8 PM Book online with promotion code YOU and receive a free glass of prosecco!

Stadhouderskade 30, 1071 ZD Amsterdam +31 (0)20 679 1370 www.blueboat.nl

CONCIERGE Robert Goverts NH GRAND HOTEL KRASNAPOLSKY

ANY SELF-RESPECTING LARGER HOTEL, WHEREVER IN THE WORLD, PROVIDES GUESTS WITH A CONCIERGE TEAM THAT CAN ASSIST IN A WIDE RANGE OF INFORMATIONAL NEEDS. DEDICATED TO DEALING WITH EVEN THE RAREST REQUEST AND GENERALLY BEING EXPECTED TO “ACHIEVE THE IMPOSSIBLE”, THE CONCIERGE IS THE PERSON TO POINT YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.

TEXT BÉNÉDICTE GRUYS PHOTOGRAPHY NH GRAND HOTEL KRASNAPOLSKY

Page 47 “A concierge is like a captain on a ship,” says Robert Goverts, who started his professional life in... car racing.

(Photo: Rose Solleveld)

MAGICAL PLACE The Krasnapolsky Hotel could perhaps best be described as a ‘magical place of hospitality’. It has been located on the famous Dam Square opposite the Royal Palace since 1866. Looking at the hotel from the outside, you would not expect to find 5,000 square meter of buzzing hotel life behind its doors. The hotel has also a magical touch to it because of its important (royal…) guests. But the hotel is not only a popular location for celebrities and royals, it is also a wellknown meeting point for business people.

‘KRAS’ FOR SHORT For the last 24 years ‘Kras’ has been a second home for concierge Robert Goverts. When he started his professional life in car racing, he did not think of himself as a doorman working in a hotel, although, of course, the valet parking was a very nice bonus of the job. Life took its course for Goverts and… the ‘hospitality bug’ caught him.

During the roaring 80s Dam Square was a place of all kinds of political manifestations. Today, it is still the place for official festivities and remembrances. Goverts has been sitting and is still sitting on the front row, so to speak. Being on the front row, he decided that he would become the owner of the official ‘Golden Keys’ certificate in order to join the concierge team of ‘Kras’.

NH GRAND HOTEL KRASNAPOLSKY DAM 9 T 020 554 9111 WWW.NH-HOTELS.NL/ NHKRASNAPOLSKY

ROYAL WEDDING Although no single day is the same for any concierge, Goverts considers the royal wedding of Crown Prince Willem Alexander of Orange and Princess Maxima the highlight of his career.

On 02-02-2002 the hotel was changed into a fortress for the international royals and VIP guests who attended this memorable ceremony. The in auguration ceremony on April 30 this year will definitely define his last year as a concierge for Krasnapolsky. On this very special date Queen Beatrix will pass the throne to her son Willem Alexander. Willem Alexander will become the first king since 1890.

Goverts may be retiring, but he would like to stay active in promoting the work he by now proudly calls his own. He would like to visit schooling facilities on behalf of ‘The Golden Keys Association’ in order to tell young people more about the diversity of the job. In fact, he could tell you that meeting Goldie Hawn or Julia Roberts could be part of a normal day ‘at the office’.

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47 www.youinamsterdam.nl

From art to daily liFe to current aFFairs

The AmsTerdAm Tropenmuseum moves wiTh The Times The Tropenmuseum (Tropics museum) near The sTaTely mauriTskade in amsTerdam is one of The mosT inTeresTing museums The ciTy has To offer. The museum has a long duTch hisTory feaTuring subsTanTial changes of perspecTive on The world and on iTself. JusT like amsTerdam, The museum has always adopTed an ouTward sTance. as a resulT, The museum is in The Top-5 besT known aTTracTions of The ciTy.

text Wilag Kater photography tropenmuseum

1. What you see here, is a file with eye colours, each with its own code. Can we categorise people by the colour of their eyes?

2. The Tropenmuseum near the stately Mauritskade in Amsterdam. Just like Amsterdam, the museum has always adopted an outward stance.

3. Death driving a bus in a Mexican city. What will he encounter?

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he Tropenmuseum started life as a colonial museum in Haarlem in 1871, exhibiting ‘raw materials, natural products and crafts from the Dutch overseas territories’, primarily from what is now Indonesia. It fine-tuned its mission at the beginning of the 20th century. At that time, the museum no longer wished to be solely a museum of art, but ‘a place offering possibilities for knowledge transfer and the chance to stimulate trade and prosperity’. In this way, more space was given to daily life in ‘the Netherlands overseas’.

Now, the museum wanted to offer a complete collection of objects ‘relevant to the current situation of peoples, in order to gain knowledge about their housekeeping, ethics and customs’. But the emphasis remained on the Dutch East Indies.

In 1926, the museum moved to its current location in Amsterdam-Oost and became the part of the so-called Colonial Institute, with a collection built up out of gifts from private individuals, explorers, travellers and scientists. to the tropics When Indonesia gained independence and the Dutch lost their colony in1949, the name of the institute running the museum changed, first into the Dutch East and West Indies Institute and later into Tropics Institute. The museum broadened its perspective, too. The entire tropics region now came into focus, including the Middle East, Africa and Latin America.

The new collections were intended to form an impression of daily life in all its facets in the tropics. This was achieved by recreating ‘complete scenes of agriculture, crafts and trade’.

The museum put on display things like ox carts, homes and full-sized boats from countries such as India, Surinam and Libya. the netherlands taKes the lead The 60s and 70s of the last century saw perhaps the most radical turning point in the history of the Tropenmuseum. The Netherlands became a rich country and declared itself solidary with the world’s poor. The country put poverty and inequality onto the international political agenda, creating broad support for development cooperation among the richer countries. In this field, the Netherlands took the lead. The Tropenmuseum in Amsterdam was the showcase for these developments.

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So-called Marind warriors from New Guinea, painted by a Dutch man: Petrus Vertenten (1922).

The museum became even more visitor-friendly and paid a lot of attention to education.

Renovation work was conducted and a new wing was added for a children’s museum, now called Tropenmuseum Junior. Its exhibitions featured themes such as homelessness, water supply, the position of women, health, agricultural development and the rise of new city cultures.

ENTHUSIASTIC TRAVELLERS In recent decades, the Tropenmuseum has developed an interest in the important cultural changes in the world. These changes are variously described by the museum in different, contemporary ways. During the 1980s, for instance, the museum turned into a meeting place of cultures: during ‘travellers’ days’, enthusiastic travellers and organisations from all over the world actively shared their experiences with the museum’s visitors face-to-face.

During the 1990s, the cultural exchanges became more intensive. Globalisation and the internet emerge. In the light of these, the museum has since organised ten permanent exhibitions with broad themes such as ‘Man & Environment’ and ‘The Music World’, but also more specific ones such as ‘The Dutch Indies’, ‘New Guinea’, ‘South-East Asia’, and, for instance, ‘Around India’. All these exhibitions can still be found in the museum.

UNIQUE COLLECTION During the coming year, the Tropenmuseum will be further intensifying its relationship with visitors. It aims to become more transparent, as the rebuilding plans for its entrance demonstrate. It will be the museum’s new calling card for the outside world. In general, the Tropenmuseum is becoming more of a cultural-historical museum.

The desired cultural-historical character of the museum has led to the Tropenmuseum linking its unique collection – nowadays no less than 644,000 objects and pieces of visual material – to contemporary culture-shaping events. It is a trend reflected in the museum’s temporary exhibitions.

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1. This masterpiece from the collection of the Tropenmuseum dates back to maybe 1200, but could also be from the early 16th century (though not younger). What you see here is a bell belonging to a local priest. It originates from the southeast of Asia.

2. A wooden sculpture, bringing with it its own power: a confronting mirror a as piece of magic. Yombe tribe, Central Africa, before 1904.

3. Skulls have their own meaning on the ‘The Day of the Dead’ (‘El dia de los muertos’). This skull originates from Mexico and is made of papier-mâché during the late 20th century.

UNEXPECTED ENCOUNTERS ‘Unexpected Encounters’ is one such temporary exhibition. It features a series of diptyches: two objects or sculptures encounter each other at the exhibition in an unexpected way. For example, an old painting could ‘encounter’ a contemporary sculpture – shedding a new light on both of them. The visitor could be taken by surprise by this unexpected combination.

He might experience something totally new.

An example: the ‘Augenfarben Table’ is a file with eye colours, each with its own code. It was compiled in 1930 by German anthropologist Eugen Saller, who categorised the people he met on his distant travels by the colour of their eyes. Saller’s aim was to categorise ‘human types’ on the basis of physiological features.

At the exhibition, Saller’s Augenfarben Table encounters modern, contemporary art. 24 Small portraits

by South American artist Marlene Dumas (who lives in Amsterdam) give man his own individuality and expression. In this way, she shows us the diversity of the individual where Saller is trying to categorise him. Dumas gives each person unique, personal characteristics and particularises them. How individual is an individual?

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SKELETONS The ‘Unexpected Encounters’ exhibition features other diptyches with a bearing on the current state of affairs in the world, too. In one such diptych, we see ‘Death’ drive past in a Mexican bus full of skeletons.

Each diptych conveys an unexpected meaning thanks to another object from another culture.

A double surprise is the question how you, with your cultural background, will experience these unexpected encounters. The Tropenmuseum very much looks forward to any comments and remarks you may have on this temporary exhibition.

WHERE AND WHEN? Visitor address: Linnaeusstraat 2 (near Mauritskade), Amsterdam, T 020 568 8200, email ils@kit.nl Opening hours: Tuesdays to Sundays from 10:00 am till 05:00 pm.

During holidays, except for the summer holidays in July and August, the museum is also open on Mondays from 10:00 am till 05:00 pm.

Please visit www.tropenmuseum.nl for more details.

Admittance fees: children from 4 to 12 years from ¤ 6; people aged 13 upwards from ¤ 10. An audio guided tour costs ¤ 4 extra.

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the rijksmuseum after 10 years of renovations

A ‘CulturAl CAthedrAl’ welComes the world

Mid-April, the rijksMuseuM on the sprAwling MuseuMplein in the heArt of AMsterdAM will roll out the red cArpet for the dutch queen. And for you. After ten yeArs of renovAtions, the whole world is welcoMe once More in A fresh, bright rijksMuseuM. the front doors of the country’s Most proMinent culturAl cAthedrAl will be wide open.

text Wilag Kater photography rijKsmuseum

Page 52 & 53 The completely renovated atrium in the museum: grand as a cathedral, but at the same time bright and without frills… (Photo: Pedro-Pegenaute) Page 55 top The Company of captain Frans Banning Cocq and lieutenant Willem van Ruytenburch preparing to march out, more famously known as the ‘Night Watch’,

by Rembrandt Harmensz. van Rijn, 1642, courtesy of Rijksmuseum Amsterdam.

Page 55 below The Rijksmuseum in around 1895: the grandeur is self-evident, but it seems that income levels are rather modest... Courtesy of Creative Commons.

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hat front door, which now lies in the heart of the city, faced a typical Dutch polder landscape when the Rijksmuseum was completed in 1885. The governors of the city at the time carefully chose the location for their new museum with the future in mind. Back then, at the end of the 19th century, the museum stood a little lost on the edge of town in the polder. Now, the Rijksmuseum – often called simply Het Rijks – has become the essential link between old and new. It stands between the old centre of town with its 400-year-old canals and the newer, chic ‘outside district’ on the other side of the Museumplein.

uproar: no bicyles alloWed The best evidence of its function as a link in the city is perhaps the uproar caused among the local population when, during the renovation work, the bicycle thoroughfare beneath the building was closed. It caught the administrators somewhat by surprise, but they responded quickly by changing their plans. After the renovation work, Amsterdamers would be able to continue to cycle through the heart of Amsterdam’s museological cathedral. a cathedral in amsterdam The term ‘cathedral’ is not even such a strange choice in this case. The Rijksmuseum’s architecture is exceptional, its significance as vehicle for national cultural heritage is huge and its art treasures are world famous. The Rijksmuseum owns and chaperones Rembrandt van Rijn’s masterpiece, the Night Watch, for instance. The whole world knows that and it’s why the whole world comes to the Museumplein.

The huge number of visitors was one of the reasons ten years ago to remove the Night Watch from its old, somewhat dilapidated environment. So now, centuries after the artist’s death, Rembrandt’s master craftsmanship has obliged the Rijksmuseum to do much more than simply restore his famous painting. The master commands all-round respect once again as he sees his work being replaced in a fresh and modernised Rijksmuseum. un-dutch architecture Architect Pierre Cuypers, the Rijksmuseum’s original architect, seems to have wanted visitors – surrounded by so much stunning beauty – to instinctively cast their gaze upwards towards the high, bright expanse of the galleries. Heaven on earth? The splendid size and spaciousness of the Rijksmuseum are almost un-Dutch. Cuypers’ architecture and opinions are still controversial today. He made a stand in the ongoing debate about the meaning of architecture in relation to religion and community spirit.

In this millennium, the Spanish renovation architects Antonio Cruz and Antonio Ortiz have paid tribute to Cuypers’ cathedral-like design. They removed all the superfluous frills from the past from the galleries and brought them back to Cuypers’ open, core architecture.

So now, as soon as the visitor enters the building, he is immediately overwhelmed by the beauty of a bright and, indeed, cathedral-like building. And should so much culture all at once become too much, outside in the fresh city air awaits a completely re-landscaped garden where any visitor can recuperate.

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1. ‘L’ homme carré’, Karel Appel, 1951, courtesy of Rijksmuseum Amsterdam.

2. While the ten-year renovation work was done, the Rijksmuseum was open as usual, even until dusk set in… (Photo: John Lewis Marshall) 3. ‘In the Month of July’: a Windmill on a Polder Waterway, Paul Joseph Constantin Gabriël, approx.

1889, courtesy of Rijksmuseum Amsterdam.

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Cultural Cathedral: extensive ColleCtion The Rijksmuseum certainly deserves the title ‘Cultural Cathedral of the Netherlands’. In 80 galleries exhibiting some 8,000 objects, the museum tells the tale of 800 years of Dutch culture. With its collection, the ‘Rijks’ offers an extensive and representative cross-section of the Netherlands’ rich history and cultural wealth.

The country owes its cultural wealth to the fact that over the centuries, it discovered the world, sailing the seas, trading with lands afar and sometimes waging war to make them its own. It could be argued that the Dutch bring with them a broad, inquisitive culture that has explored, (re-)invented and (re-)designed all kinds of things. For this reason, the historical collection of the Rijksmuseum is very extensive indeed: from famous masterpieces to wondrous décor pieces and furniture; from single items of every-day use to fully styled interiors, often from the Netherlands, but much from far beyond the country’s borders, too. The reason for this, of course, is the huge role of the Dutch colonial past in its culture. A dedicated Asia Pavilion has been created to reflect this, for instance.

Cathedral of art: famous paintings As a cathedral of art, the Rijksmuseum is home primarily to works of the great Dutch painting tradition. In addition to Rembrandt, a number of his famous 17th century contemporaries feature prominently, too, such as Frans Hals, Johannes Vermeer and the later (Peter Paul) Rubens. From the 19th century, you can admire work by such greats as Vincent van Gogh.

Fortunately, the 20th century has now been given space, too, with a new department where you can take in works by, among others, the Dutch master painter Karel Appel. He strikes a fittingly open final chord in the 400-year tradition of Dutch painting on display.

CompaCt abundanCe In short, the Rijksmuseum is much more than an ‘ordinary’ Amsterdam museum. Very few places in the world bring together so many cultural qualities in such a diverse and compact

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1. This gallery of honour in the Rijksmuseum does its name proud. (Photo: Jannes Linders) 2. Woodwork from the interior of the building at Nieuwe Gracht 74 in Haarlem. The town of Haarlem gave its name to the New York district of Harlem. Courtesy of Rijksmuseum Amsterdam.

manner and in such cathedral-like surroundings. In a sense, this compact abundance is typical of the small country of the Netherlands as a whole.

All this and more makes a visit to this Amsterdam cathedral very worthwhile. Now, and in the future.

The new Rijks will be ready to welcome you in April.

Where and When?

Address: Rijksmuseum, Jan Luijkenstraat 1, 1071 CJ Amsterdam, T 020 674 7000. www.rijksmuseum.nl Opening hours: From March 18 until April 12, the Rijksmuseum will be closed to allow the final renovations to take place.

Please note: from January 2013, e-tickets are no longer available and (group) reservations can no longer be made online.

Entrance tickets can only be bought in the museum itself. Tickets for the new Rijksmuseum will be available from mid-March.

Prices: Adults ¤ 14, children under 18 free.

The museum is also free to holders of a Museumkaart, holders of Rijksmuseum School Cards, members of ICOM, ICOMOS, UNESCO, the Rembrandt Association, KOG, Vrienden van de Aziatische Kunst (‘Friends of Asian Art’) and Vrienden van het Rijksmuseum (‘Friends of the Rijksmuseum’).

Free WiFi is available inside the museum.

Before and after this final renovation work, the opening hours are as follows: daily from 9:00 till 18:00. The museum’s ticket counter closes at 17:30.

Public transport: From Central Station, trams 2 and 5 stop at Hobbemastraat; from Sloterdijk Station, tram 12 stops at the Concertgebouw.

Tip: in the high season, visit the Rijksmuseum after 16:00 to avoid the worst of the crowds (the high season is from April through June).

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chefs in the city text Bénédicte gruys PhotograPhy restaurant Vermeer

RestauRant VeRmeeR Busy city life is left immediately behind after a warm welcome in the contemporary though timeless atmosphere of Restaurant Vermeer.

The glass of Champagne, handed to us by maître Niek Beute, tastes even better after he passionately explains the specifics of this festive wine. Chef de cuisine Christopher Naylor joins us for a moment as we look forward to getting a taste of his culinary mastery.

Vegetable heaVen At the very start of our enjoyable stay, we have the pleasure to taste some very surprising and refined appetizers like an oyster with a hint of red cabbage jus and crunch.

The first course is no less inventive: scallops on crispy sage bread, oxheart cabbage with a lemon puree and a perfect dash of korma curry. This is followed by the ‘season vegetable casserole’, a real speciality for even the most passionate fish or meat lover. This palette of numerous season vegetables prepared in a variety of ways is served with olive oil powder and a sweet beetroot jus, and should be on every vegetarian and diet menu.

to the kitchen We are asked to come to the kitchen, where the atmosphere is much more relaxed than we expected. While having a look at the professionals at work, we are offered grilled pikeperch glazed in cider with Jerusalem artichokes, apple and ginger. The red wine sauce really illustrates the chef ’s passion.

A glass of red wine awaits us back in the restaurant. This creates a perfect setting for a piece of ‘Gasconne’ pig, a rare and usually domestically bred animal, reflecting Naylor’s interest in animal welfare.

Cheesecake is our final dish. It is presented with white and dark chocolate, oatmeal, nuts, frozen yoghurt and curd of milk, which is normally used to make cheese.

This dessert underlines the fact that the entire menu has been pure and authentic.

Also pure and authentic is the friendliness and positive attitude of all the staff, making the evening a proper treat.

CHEf CHRISTOPHER NAyLOR Although food has played an important role in his life since his childhood, Naylor did not expect a culinary career when he started studying economics in Bournemouth. However, through some surprising circumstances, he became protégée of the legendary Albert Roux. This founding father of the famous french culinary ‘Roux family’ is well known for the training of globally respected chefs in UK based restaurants. While working with Roux in Amsterdam, Naylor met renowned Dutch chef Robert Kranenborg. Thanks to this cooperation, Naylor found a good balance between the sometimes harsh though unbeatable ‘french’ training and the more relaxed atmosphere of Amsterdam. He will always strive for the best quality, combining classic french methods with the flair of current times.

RESTAURANT VERMEER HOTEL NH BARBIZON PALACE PRINS HENDRIKKADE 59-72 T 020 556 4885 WWW.RESTAURANTVERMEER.NL

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CHEFS text Bénédicte gruys PhotograPhy restaurant Keizersgracht 238

RestauRant KeizeRsgRacht 238 Located on the corner of the Keizersgracht/ Reestraat in the beloved ‘Nine Little Streets’ shopping area, Restaurant Keizersgracht 238 is a nice, quiet place for lunch, drinks and dinner.

The restaurant is adjacent to the unique Hotel Pulitzer. This hotel is situated within 25 interconnected historical canal houses.

Here, you can gracefully get lost in the corridors of the joint houses, discovering the famous inner city atmosphere in a quite, distinctive way.

AMSTERDAM SAUSAGES However, we are not here to elaborate on a friendly labyrinth! In the comfortable chairs of Restaurant Keizersgracht 238, we look out onto the canal Keizersgracht while being served a French alternative for champagne: a festive Crémant from the Loire region.

After being served a homemade Dutch croquet with truffle mayonnaise, we also get to taste some delicious Amsterdam sausages made by a butcher from the Jordaan area.

The real starter is pastrami of deer. The gamy flavour of the meat is delightfully

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refreshing thanks to marinated red cabbage, apple and piccalilli. The meat is served with thinly-sliced toast. We notice that truly everything is homemade and very pure.

After these encouraging starters, Jeroen Kistemaker is proud to serve us ‘Skrei’, a fish from the cod family, originating from Norwegian waters and famous for its most beautiful, moist, white flesh. It is perfectly prepared on the lava stone grill. The fish is served with smooth cauliflower crème, salsify and truffle oil.

The culinary experience becomes even more complete as we enjoy a classic rib of beef with a buttery though zingy béarnaise and ‘Roseval’ fondant potatoes.

Awaiting the sweet, we watch canal life go by. While watching, we are surprised by a warm chocolate cake, oozing in the centre.

The poached pineapple and surprising rosemary ice cream gives this dessert its own distinction. We leave this charming location with the definite intention to come back for the famous ‘Green Egg’ summer barbeques in the garden.

CHEF JEROEN KISTEMAKER When Chef Jeroen Kistemaker started his culinary career in the 90s, he couldn’t have found a better home than the French culinary region of the Elzas. His stay in France proved to be a perfect foundation for working in renowned restaurants and hotels in the Netherlands. This young father – and husband to a sommelier – has now found solid ground at a place where he can give you his culinary signature, while at the same time enthusiastically managing his culinary team. He finds his inspiration in both national and international chefs.

Kistemaker is very passionate about finding local ingredients, giving his products not only a Dutch twist, but even an ‘Amsterdam twist’.

RESTAURANT KEIZERSGRACHT 238 HOTEL PULITZER, A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL PRINSENGRACHT 315-331 T 020 523 5282 WWW.RESTAURANTKEIZERSGRACHT238.NL 59 www.youinamsterdam.nl

VOOGES

SyRIana

BIHP

BRIDGES sofitel legend the grand amsterdam

SuPPERcluB

nEvy

LONG PURA

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special restaurants & Bars RestauRant

Akersluis 8 T. 020 - 669 09 33 www.syriana.nl info@syriana.nl Syriana, a restaurant with a Syrian-Lebanese kitchen, a cuisine that is relatively unknown to restaurant visitors and continues to amaze people. The tastes are a class apart, you could say we are dealing with a new culinary taste maker. People like the kitchen because it has many appetizer courses, called ‘mazas’ - very similar to the Spanish tapas. In the restaurant you can also enjoy the unique Arab high-tea with lots of Syrian and Lebanese sweets & treats. Lunch, brunch and cocktails are being served during the day and at night a delightful dinner with Arab tapas-dishes.

The Lounge with the 1001 night decor on the first floor or the Eden room at the ground floor can be booked for parties, meetings, large dinners and business events. Suggestions can be made for menu, entertainment and theme’s.

New at Syriana is the “All you can eat concept”- you can eat 6 rounds and order 4 dishes per round from the in total 56 dishes with a choice from vegetarian, meat- or fishmaza’s.

So you can explore the Libanese kitchen in a fun way. Price : € 19,50 during weekdays and € 22,50 on Friday and Saturday because of the live music and performance of a Belly dancer.

For after dinner cocktails & shiska please visit the Club Lounge Syriana Deluxe.

Kitchen open daily from 12:00 - 22:00 open 365 days a year see you at syriana!

bIhp aRt Food dRinks

Keizersgracht 335 T. 020 - 622 45 11 www.bihp.nl Situated on one of the city’s most beautiful canals, this exceptionally attractive-looking establishment has a somewhat unusual concept in that it combines food and drinks with art. During the year there are several exhibitions in the gallery in the basement: Galerie K335, while during every exhibition works

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by the exhibiting artist can also be seen in the restaurant. BIHP features a mainly European kitchen, classical base, with lots of interplay between old and new traditions and flavors from all corners of the world. All the food that will be served to you originates completely from our kitchen, even the bonbons and confectionery are homemade. The menu changes on a regular basis and the dishes are cooked with the seasons wherever possible, so you will be guaranteed of a delicious and honest meal. If you have any allergies or dietary wishes that are quite specific, we kindly ask you to let us know in advance so we can take them into account. To conclude: if you’re looking for good food, a nice ambience and art, BIHP absolutely is the right address for you.

3-course menu ¤ 32,95 - choices of fish, meat and vegetarian Kitchen open tue - sat 18.00 – 22.30

bRIdgeS RestauRant

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 T. 020 - 555 35 60 www.bridgesrestaurant.nl At Bridges inspired by Ron Blaauw it’s all about fish. Always the best fish and only when in season. Executive chef Joris Bijdendijk presents a wide variety of fresh fish and seafood, both in our restaurant and in the Raw Bar. Oysters, lobster sandwiches, delicate fish tartar and ocean fresh fish, everything prepared while you watch. You can eat in the restaurant as well as dine in the exclusive privacy of the Private Dining, with view of the Vinothèque, the climatized domain of the sommelier and his fine selection of wines.

Bridges’ philosophy is to add only a couple of fresh ingredients to the dish in order to let the fish’s character and flavour fully blossom.

Every dish retains its purity and is very easily digestible as well. Mainly locally & biologically grown vegetables complete these dishes.

Sommelier Jasper van den Hoogen tastes and selects the wine in the Vinothèque. He serves specially composed wine arrangements and vintage Champagnes. Most wines can be ordered per glass.

SuppeRclub RestauRant/CoCktailbaR/Club/ GalleRy

Jonge roelensteeg 21 T. 020 3446400 amsterdam@supperclub.com www.supperclub.com supperclub is a restaurant, cocktailbar, club, gallery and experimental free state all rolled into one. At supperclub everything revolves around stimulating your senses and releasing your creativity.”

You don’t sit at a table, but enjoy your food lying down on oversized white beds with your shoes off. Cozy, informal and the perfect way to forget about table etiquette and simply indulge in the good vibes!

Expect exquisite cuisine from all over the world. There is nothing conventional about the supperclub. Instead, we serve you an allnight experience. You will get a culinary journey through different dishes, countries, flavours, savours and top-notch entertainment. open mon - sun 19:30 - 01:00

NevY RestauRant

Westerdoksdijk 40 T. 020 344 64 09 info@nevy.nl www.nevy.nl True fish lovers have known it for quite some time now: Nevy is thé place to be if you want to enjoy the taste of the fruits of the sea. From perfectly fried sole to exquisite salmon risotto: the chef knows his fishes!

Bright colors, transparency through the many windows and the unique panoramic view over the IJ River provide an extra dimension to your visit. With a big terrace and in the midst of the up-and-coming IJ dock area Nevy is a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine, a beautiful dish and soak up the sun in good company. m0 - thu 12.00 – 01.00 fri & sat 12.00 – 02.00 sun 12.00 – 01.00

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SpecIAl ReSTAuRANTS & bARS

SYRIANA

bubbLes & wines

VOOGES

pont 13

MAppA

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special restaurants & Bars wine & champagne bar/bites

nes 37 T 020 - 422 33 18 www.bubblesandwines.com info@bubblesandwines.com In one of the quaintest streets of Amsterdam, and only one-minute-walk distance from famous Dam Square, you will find wine & champagne bar Bubbles & Wines.

In a modern, intimate chocolate brown ambiance you can enjoy more than 50 wines by the glass (including 6 sparkling) and over 200 by the bottle. Our specialties are our “wine flights”, three half glasses from one grape variety but from different wine regions. Make nice matches with our Gourmet Bites (luxury finger food) or just come in for a glass of Champagne, Pinot Grigio or Pinot Noir. Our friendly and professional staff will help you out choosing your wine and they will give you advice on what Bites will match the best. After dinner you can enjoy our choice of beautiful Grappas and other digestives or have another glass of your favorite wine. For gourmet lovers Bubbles & Wines is the best choice for a complete evening out!

Mon-Sat 15.30 - 01.00 Sun 14.00-21.00 Kitchen open - 00.45

POnT 13 restaurant

Haparandadam 50 T. 020 - 770 2722 www.pont13.nl info@pont13.nl Restaurant Pont 13 is housed on an old ferry (pont=ferry) built in 1927. Until the 1990s, it used to travel back and forth across the IJ lake. When it was declared ready for the scrap heap, René Langendijk bought it to turn it into his dream restaurant. Since 2005, Pont 13 has its anchorage at the romantic post-industrial Westelijke Houthavens, characterized by a great deal of cultural development. A beautiful place to be, with a wonderful skyline – the Amsterdam harbor, interesting new archi-

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tecture, and numerous boats of all kinds.

The European cuisine of Pont 13 has an original character, with the Italian slow food tradition as inspirational startingpoint. On an open fire organic dishes are prepared. The combination of the décor of the rebuilt ferry, the impressive view, and last but not at all least the slow food kitchen makes this a place where you just love to be. Distinctive are the relaxed, homely atmosphere and the delicious food. Pont 13 imports wines, meat and home-canned fruit from the beautiful Italian region Le Marche, where owner Rene has a little farm. open during chriStMaS holiday and Serving a feStive Multi-courSe dinner lunch daily froM 12.00 - 16.00 dinner daily froM 18.30 - 22.00

maPPa restaurant

nes 59 T. 020 – 528 91 70 www.mappa.nl In the very heart of the city on the historical street Nes, Mappa is situated in a former coffee house opened in 1810 by the Frascati brothers who became famous for their very popular Frascati Café (from 1940 on). Later, the building was used as a theater with Frascati Café as a part of it. Since 2001, however, restaurant Mappa is the happy occupant. Mappa offers Italian cuisine and “everything is home-made and made with love.” Authentic Italian food is what Mappa offers, and the restaurant is proud of the fact that all its home-made dishes are made from fresh, biological products. Mappa is mainly known for its variety of pasta dishes, but besides the pastas it also has some beautiful antipasti (starters) and a few fish and meat specialties. The menu at Mappa is changed regularly to ensure creativity and quality in the kitchen. Needless to say, good Italian food goes hand in hand with beautiful wines.

The wine list at Mappa is predominantly Italian, from small vineyards in Puglia to great wine masters such as Walter Massa.

The interior of Restaurant Mappa is stylish in a timeless way; 60 people can be seated here. The staff at Mappa is friendly and always ready to help. As hospitality is very important to Mappa, you are guaranteed a wonderful evening out at the restaurant. opening tiMeS Kicthen: Mappa iS happy to welcoMe you Monday - wedneSday froM 18.00 - 22.00 thurSday - Saturday froM 18.00 - 23.00. reServationS recoMMended.

l’inviTe restaurant

Bloemgracht 47 T 020 – 570 2010 www.linvitelerestaurant.nl L’invite is an extraordinary Amsterdam restaurant in the heart of the the Jordaan in Old West. Located on one of the most beautiful canals in the Jordaan: the Bloemgracht in a historic canalhouse from 1628. While entering l’invite le Restaurant you will receive a warm welcome by Chef Aimé van der Veen and Restaurant Maître Gerben van Dalum. Chef Aimé cooks according to the classic French cuisine, but manages to surprise again and again with original, thoughtful flavor combinations and beautiful presentations. Maître Gerben provides a relaxed atmosphere and recommends beautiful matching wines to the different dishes. You are more than welcome for the culinary Chef ’s Lunch - 3 courses for € 35, - or a quick and light business lunch 2 courses for € 19,50. In the evening there is the Menu du Chef for € 49,50 or you can make a choice of a small but very nice à la carte. At the site www.linvitelerestaurant. nl you will find the current menu, a photo impression of the restaurant, route information and you can instantly book a table. open : tue – Sun for lunch and dinner lunch : 12.00 - 15.00 and dinner froM 18.00

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sPeCial ResTauRanTs & baRs

bubbles & wines

hellO sushi

cafe restaurant OPen

H

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ello Sushi ‘s new location at the 1e vd Helststraat 72 in the Pijp is a change of pace for the sushi bar that started in the fast business district Zuidas only a year ago. Whilst on the Zuidas the focus is on speed, at the 1e vd Helststraat you can relax and enjoy the nice wines and sakes that accompany their great sushi , salads and other dishes. In both locations the focus is on quality for a very reasonable price.

The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner throughout the week except for Mondays and Tuesday in winter.

Eat in or take out - Hello Sushi is the right choice 1e vd Helststraat 72 1072 NX Amsterdam T. 020 - 664 89 42 www.hellosushi.nl info@hellosushi.nl

Claude Debussylaan 35 1082 MC Amsterdam T. 020 - 642 80 66

Pink flamingO Pizza

“T

ight next to ancient Amsterdam city center this fast architectural developing part of the city gives an open and constant changing view on the river IJ and futuristic film museum EYE. OPEN is located on the old railroad swing bridge with a light and airy feel.

You can either enjoy a well balanced and pleasantly priced modern style French/Italian lunch menu or go more extensive in the evening.

Open kitchen, open views and open service

ucked in the most lively part of de Pijp, near the Albert Cuyp Market, it’s worth the trip for the most unique pizzas in Amsterdam. Try our delicious organic pizzas with one of our own brew beers or wines. To eat in our rock ‘n roll restaurant, to take out or to be delivered to you by bike. From April to October we can provide you with a ‘Pink-nick’: order your pizza at the restaurant, take our balloon, find a nice&sunny spot in the neighboring Sarphatipark and we will find you!”

2 course lunch menu 18,00 € 3 course dinner menu 35,00 €

Open: Sun-Thu 17:00-24:00 Fri-Sat 17:00-02:00

Open: Mon – Sat 12.00 - 22.00 Sun closed

Gerard Douplein 8 1072 VE Amsterdam T. 020 - 670 32 74 www.pinkflamingopizza.com

Westerdoksplein 20 1013 AZ Amsterdam T. 020 – 620 10 10 reserveren@open.nl / www.open.nl

At Bridges, inspired by Ron Blaauw, it’s all about fish. Always the best fish and only when in season.

Executive chef Joris Bijdendijk presents a wide variety of fresh fish and seafood, both in our restaurant and in the Raw Bar. Oysters, lobster sandwiches, delicate fish tartar and ocean fresh fish, everything prepared while you watch. You can eat in the restaurant as well as dine in the exclusive privacy of the Private Dining, with view of the Vinothèque, the climatized domain of the sommelier and his fine selection of wines.

Bridges’ philosophy is to add only a couple of fresh ingredients to the dish in order to let the fish’s character and flavour fully blossom. Every dish retains its purity and is very easily digestible as well. Mainly locally & biologically grown vegetables complete these dishes.

Sommelier Jasper van den Hoogen tastes and selects the wine in the Vinothèque. He serves specially composed wine arrangements and vintage Champagnes. Most wines can be ordered per glass.

For more information and making reservations: www.bridgesrestaurant.nl or +31 (0)20 555 35 60 Bridges, inspired by Ron Blaauw

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 | 1012 EX Amsterdam Valet parking available

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1. The renovated Rietveld building of the Van Gogh Museum, together with the more recent wing of the museum on the left. Between this wing and the Rietveld building a new entrance building is being planned.

(Photo: Reneé Gerritsen) 2. Museum Plaza is the place to be in Amsterdam.

The Stedelijk Museum (3) re-opened last year, the Rijksmuseum (1) will re-open in April and the Van Gogh Museum (2) in May. By the way, for the Concertgebouw (4) it also is a festive year. It was built in 1888, 125 years ago.

arts & culture text Wilag Kater et al.

PhotograPhy With thanKs to contributors

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Van gogh MuseuM anniversary exhibition: Van gogh in a new light May 1 2013 - January 12 2014 While enjoying the hospitality of the Hermitage Amsterdam until April 25, the Van Gogh Museum will return to its own building on Museum Plaza on May 1 2013. The new building will comply once again with all the safety and conservation standards befitting a museum of global repute. The renovated building also creates all kinds of possiblities to place Van Gogh in a new light.

The anniversary exhibition Van Gogh at work, with which the renovated Van Gogh Museum will re-open on May 1, will show how in ten years’ time Van Gogh developed into a unique artist with an impressive oeuvre. The exhibition, which will mark the close of eight years of research into Van Gogh’s working methods, will illustrate the painter’s development with 200 works of art by Van Gogh and his contemporaries.

Microscopes and paint samples will help visitors to discover how he worked and mastered new skills. Many masterpieces from the museum, along with art works on loan, will form new combinations and shed light on Van Gogh’s career.

In Van Gogh at work, visitors will look over Van Gogh’s shoulder, as it were, discovering how the painter lived and worked.

Among the 200 works of art are 150 paintings, works on paper, letters and personal belongings of the painter, such as his original sketchbooks, paint tubes and only surviving palette, from the Musée d’Orsay in Paris.

Visitors can trace Van Gogh’s development with the aid of numerous pieces from the museum’s own collection, in combination with loans from outside the museum.

Pieces from the museum collection will hang side by side with works on loan by Monet, Gauguin, Seurat and Bernard.

Van Gogh at work will be based on insights gleaned from a long-term programme of

research on the artist’s working methods. A multidisciplinary team of researchers from the Van Gogh Museum, the Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands (RCE) and Partner in Science, Shell Nederland, has been studying the art-historical, material and technical aspects of Van Gogh’s work intensively since 2005. Their findings have placed old familiar works in a new light.

They have also investigated Van Gogh’s relationships with his contemporaries. The results represent a real contribution to our knowledge about the artist and his work.

For instance, Van Gogh at work describes how Van Gogh learned his craft, from his first experimental drawings to his famous later paintings. The largely chronological exhibition – filling the four levels of the renovated Rietveld building – will allow visitors to see for themselves what materials Van Gogh used, under what conditions he worked, which artists influenced him and where he bought his materials. www.vangoghmuseum.nl

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AnnET gELinK gALLErY

HErMiTAgE AMsTErDAM

ALLArD piErsOn MUsEUM

An ever-expanding universe of media 13 April - 18 May 2013

Tsar peter the great in the capital March 9 - December 13 2013

‘Troy. City, Homer, Turkey’ Until 5 May, 2013

The Annet Gelink Gallery presents contemporary conceptual art. During April and May the gallery presents work by Ryan Gander (1976, Chester, England). Gander feels at ease within an ever-expanding universe of media. His work ranges from installations, sculptures and photographs to performative lectures, publications, inventions and interventions.

The Netherlands and Russia have enjoyed a warm relationship for centuries, a fact that has been celebrated and remembered extensively in recent years. In 2009, for instance, the Hermitage Amsterdam opened the only European annex of the famous St Petersburg museum. This year, the close relationship between the two countries is emphasised in the ‘Netherlands-Russia Year 2013’.

Gander examines the conditions of art production and the cognitive process of the perception of art. His works form a labyrinth of inter-related narratives often based on real incidents or characters or existing artworks. He has won numerous prestigious prizes. Alongside his artistic production, Gander is a visiting lecturer at a selection of art schools in Europe and regular writer for art and design periodicals. New work by the artist is currently in production for the coming exhibition.

Annet Gelink Gallery, established in 2000, is an internationally oriented gallery, but introduces Dutch art by national artists, too. Project space ‘The Bakery’ is especially meant for new talent, often young artists who for the first time get an opportunity to show their work to a broad, international audience. www.annetgelink.com

Hermitage Amsterdam this year will be presenting a special exhibition about famous tsar Peter the Great. Objects of art, priceless collector’s items and various personal belongings of this influential Russian tsar will feature most prominently.

As soon as he gained power aged just 17, the young tsar started to modernise 17th century Russia. He set out straight away to build relationships with western European countries and made two long journeys, one of which was to the Republic of the Seven United Netherlands. He visited the shipyards of Zaandam and in Amsterdam he was inspired to found his new capital city of St Petersburg, known ever since as Russia’s ‘Window to the West’.

Peter the Great was an avid art collector, too. With the purchase of works by masters including Rembrandt, he laid the foundations of what was later to become the world-famous Hermitage collection in St Petersburg. Arguably, he laid the foundations of the collection that can be seen at Hermitage Amsterdam this year. www.hermitage.nl/en

The enigmatic city of Troy currently takes centre stage at the Allard Pierson Museum’s exhibition ‘Troy. City, Homer,Turkey’.

The city of Troy is first described by the Greek poet Homer. Stories about Troy have been an inspiration for people for centuries, and that is perhaps why so many have tried to find it.

At the end of the 19th century, German businessman and archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann discovered what may well be the remains of Troy in north-western Turkey.

However, the exact origin of Troy remains the subject of archaeological research and debate.

Archaeological finds reveal the remnants of more than 3,500 years of civilisation. Historians sometimes created their own cities of Troy by giving their own interpretation of the myths and archaeological objects. Discord and conflict dominate the search for the ‘real’ Troy, making this exhibition more than worthwhile.

The Allard Pierson Museum, on Oude Turfmarkt in the heart of town, is the archaeological museum of the University of Amsterdam.

Boasting a glorious archaeological collection, talented students and excellent researchers, the museum shows the relevance of old civilisations to today’s European culture.

The exhibition ‘Troy. City, Homer, Turkey’ will also serve to round off celebrations this year of 400 years of diplomatic relations between Turkey and the Netherlands. www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl

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1. Ryan Gander, ‘Alchemy Box No. 37’, 2012. Photo by Sebastiano Pellion di Persano; courtesy of Annet Gelink Gallery, Amsterdam.

2. When being abroad, tsar Peter the Great took his medication with him. Courtesy of Hermitage Amsterdam.

3. The exhibition ‘Troy. City, Homer, Turkey’ will serve to round off celebrations this year of 400 years of diplomatic relations between Turkey and the Netherlands.

(Photo: Mike Bink)

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Based on sketches of nature - of landscapes and flowers Kimie Yagi ‘paints’ her bags with all kinds of colours in wool and felt.

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AKinCi gALLErY Thomas Huber: beyond perceptible April 6 - May 18 2013 In Akinci, a gallery founded in 1988, you can feel the presence of Thomas Huber. During the months of April and May that is.

The paintings of Huber (1955, Zürich) transport you to a reconstructed world beyond the purely perceptible. Huber’s perspective portrayals of spaces and places, in a mysterious game of light and shadow, do not depict reality. If you want to experience this lack of reality, you should definitely visit Akinci at the Lijnbaansgracht 317. Akinci shows contemporary art with an emphasis on actual developments and daunting experiment.

In the same location at Lijnbaansgracht 312-317, you will find three other galleries: Lumen Travo, Metis and Flatland.

TAssEnMUsEUM HEnDriKJE

MUsEUM Ons’ LiEVE HEEr Op sOLDEr

(MUSEUM OF BAGS AND PURSES)

‘Our Lord in the Attic’ Open all year

Unique designs

by Kimie Yagi March 12 - May 5 2013 Museum of Bags and Purses ‘Hendrikje’ takes visitors on a journey of the development of bags and purses from the 16th century onwards. The collection offers a fascinating impression of (hand)bag fashion over the ages. Tassenmuseum Hendrikje is located in a monumental building at Herengracht 573. The building, erected in 1664, boasts an impressive, historical interior and is worth a visit if only to marvel at that. But ranking among the world’s top 8 fashion museums means people come here mainly for what is on display. It is the only museum of its kind with such an extensive and specialised collection of bags and purses.

www.akinci.nl

On Oudezijds Voorburgwal visitors will find one of the most extraordinary museums of Amsterdam. On the outside, Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (‘Our Lord in the Attic’) looks like any of the city’s other stately mansions. Behind its characteristic façade, however, is a 17th century home with a complete church in the attic.

Home churches originate from the time when Catholics, after successful protestations by Protestants, were banned from holding public church services. The great treasure of the museum is the church itself, complete with galleries, a large altar and seating for some 80 worshippers. But the rest of the building, including 17th and 19th century period rooms, is most certainly worth taking in, too.

During March, April and May, Japanese designer Kimie Yagi will exhibit her work at the museum. Based on sketches of nature – landscapes and flowers – she ‘paints’ her bags with all kinds of colours in wool and felt.

2013 heralds the start of building work as part of an expansion of the museum to the building next door. Once complete, this new section will house the entrance hall, a shop and a museum café.

www.tassenmuseum.nl

www.opsolder.nl

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1. Thomas Huber, ‘Aushub II’, 2010, oil on linen, 80 x 60 cm, courtesy of Akinci.

2. Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder used to be a church and is now a church museum.

There’s no way of telling from the outside that its attic is home to a church.

3. Public Roman Catholic Church services could not be held publicly in the Netherlands during the 17th century. Worshippers therefore went underground.

In this case, that meant going ‘overground’, into the attic of a town mansion.

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1. The pieces ‘Long Life’ and ‘The Sound of Silence’ - first performed at the New Riga Theatre - launched Latvian theatre director Alvis Hermanis’ international career. This is a scene from ‘The Sound of Silence’. Courtesy of The Sound of Silence.

2. Marie Cecile Thijs, food series: ‘Umami’. Courtesy of Eduard Planting Gallery.

3. You can experience for yourself what it’s like to live on a houseboat at the Houseboat Museum.

4. The living room of a houseboat, apparently dating back to the times of the typewriter...

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sTADssCHOUWBUrg

HOUsEBOAT MUsEUM

(CITY THEATRE)

What’s life like on a houseboat?

Open all year

Brandstichter 2013: Alvis Hermanis 2 March - 6 April 2013 Each year, with the series Brandhaarden en Brandstichters (literally ‘Seats of Fire and Arsonists’) Amsterdam’s Stadsschouwburg presents internationally famous theatre companies and directors. This spring, Latvian director Alvis Hermanis will step into the limelight, presenting five acclaimed performances.

The five shows introduce audiences to Hermanis’ versatile talent. The pieces ‘Long Life’ and ‘The Sound of Silence’ – first performed at the New Riga Theatre – launched his international career. They are original and touching comedies, yet not a word is spoken.

In ‘Väter’, a production by Schauspielhaus Zürich, a Latvian, a Russian and a German talk about their fathers. ‘Sommergäste’ (by Schaubühne Berlin) and ‘Wassa’ (by the Münchner Kammerspiele) are large-scale performances in hyper-realistic sets and costumes.

At the Houseboat Museum, you can experience for yourself what it’s like to live on a houseboat in Amsterdam. Located in a former sailing ship built in 1914, you will find the museum on the Prinsengracht on the edge of Amsterdam’s Jordaan district close to the Anne Frank House. Its deckhouse, including the box bed, where the sailor’ family used to live and sleep, has remained as it originally was. The hold, however, has been converted into a cosy abode with all mod cons. Models of ships, photographs and a slide show complete the picture.

The Houseboat Museum is an initiative of Vincent van Loon: “Living on a houseboat myself, I noticed that passers-by often tried to look inside, curious about the interior. And I was always bombarded with questions. How do I get water and electricity? And what about drainage? Isn’t it cold, damp and dark on board? Everybody seemed to want to know and that’s how I got the idea to open a houseboat to the public.”

www.ssba.nl/brandstichter www.houseboatmuseum.nl

EDUArD pLAnTing gALLErY ‘Food portraits’

by Marie Cécile Thijs March 9 - April 27 2013 The exhibition ‘Food Portraits’ by Marie Cécile Thijs shows a diversity of culinary photography. Pink fungi under a bell jar, storm in glasses of water, distilled Umami, artichoke dripping in oil... You may also find photographs of chanterelles on bread or bleeding beetroot. The food portraits by Marie Cécile Thijs are analytical, tranquil and yet dynamic, each showing the essence of food. The work of Marie Cécile Thijs is published weekly in ‘FD Persoonlijk’, the weekend magazine of the Dutch financial daily newspaper ‘Het Financieele Dagblad’.

The texts in ‘FD Persoonlijk’ are by culinary historian and writer Hilary Akers.

For more than 15 years, Marie Cécile Thijs has specialised in art photography. She combines a contemporary style with her love for classical references.

Eduard Planting Gallery specialises in selling and buying photographs by nationally and internationally well-known artists.

Besides that, the gallery regularly invites upcoming talent to exhibit work. This creates an interesting mix and contrast between famous and relatively unknown photographers. www.eduardplanting.com

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YOU ArE THE giFT It is good and proper tradition when someone in the Netherlands throws a party to celebrate a birthday, Dutch people arrive with a gift.

The Dutch always take the utmost care to ensure that price tags are removed from gifts before they are appropriately wrapped. And we do it, of course, because we don’t want to be seen to be stingy Dutch people. (Whether or not we are is a different matter altogether!)

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An alternative way to make a good impression is a classy gift voucher from de Bijenkorf, our national department store. Wouldn’t it be brave to leave the value blank for the birthday boy or girl to fill in themselves? But no, here, too, Dutch generosity has its limits. We make good what we lack in imagination by buying one for a sum we determine ourselves. We leave it up to the recipient to choose a gift from which (s)he can remove the price tag himself (herself ).

In the east of the country, people are more matter of fact. There, without exception, they turn up at parties with an envelop containing the exact amount they think they’ll consume that evening.

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Amsterdam is all celebrations in 2013. Its 17thcentury canal ring, high on UNESCO’s world heritage list, will be 400 years old. The Concertgebouw will celebrate its 125th birthday and in mid-April, the Rijksmuseum, which has undergone years of extensive renovation work, will reopen.

The astronomical observatory of Felix Meritis will open its doors to the general public for the first time.

On 1 July 2013, the Tropics Museum will officially celebrate the abolishment of slavery in our colonies 150 years ago. And Artis Royal Zoo will celebrate its 175th birthday with a sea of flowers.

You may well be wondering whether, as a guest, you’re expected to bring the city a gift. Let me give you the unambiguous assurance that Amsterdam sees your presence as a demonstration of your appreciation and with that, as the best gift it could possibly receive. In short, you are welcome and a gift all at once!

Henry Salman, 4

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YOUr Amsterdam Watcher

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fast facts

AMSTERDAM TOURIST INFORMATION

Besides providing tourist information such as hotel reservations, excursions and theatre tickets, the Amsterdam Tourism & Convention Board (ATCB) provides information on excursions, guided walking tours, attractions, restaurants, shops, parking facilities and public transport.

The information offices of the ATCB can be found at several locations: opposite Central Station, on platform 2 inside the station, on Leidseplein and at the Schiphol arrival hall.

ATCB – T 0900 4004040 (40 eurocents p.m.)

I AMSTERDAM ® CARD

In addition to public transport and a roundtrip of the canals, almost all the Amsterdam museums can be visited free of charge with the electronic I Amsterdam Card. You’ll also receive a 25 % discount at restaurants and tourist attractions, free admission to the Holland Casino, and, among other things, a free guided tour of the Amsterdam Diamond Group. You can buy the card for 24, 48 or 72 hours.

ATCB – T 0900 4004040 (40 eurocents p.m.), also: www.iamsterdam.com

INTERNET

Internet stalls of the telephone booth type can be found all over the city centre. The

WiFi identifcation ‘Hotspot Amsterdam’ allows you to connect to the internet from various locations with a wireless enabled desktop, laptop or smartphone within range of a hotspot zone. www.hotspotamsterdam.com

MAKING PHONE CALLS

To call abroad from the Netherlands, dial 00 followed by country code, area code and number. For the country codes, please see the Tele Info section in the Amsterdam phone book. The Netherlands country code is 31. For most public phones you need a phone card, available from post offices, ATCB offices (= tourist offices), tobacconists, some supermarkets and department stores.

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS

• Central emergency: 112 • Doctor’s service: 0900 503 2042 • KPN telecom information: national 0900 8008 international 0900 8418

BANKS

Banks are open on weekdays from 09.00 through 16.00 or 17.00 hrs. Most banks are closed on Monday mornings. Some larger branches stay open later on Thursday evenings.

CHANGING MONEY

Money and traveller’s checks can be changed at banks, some hotels and specialised exchange offices such as GWK (at Central Station) and SUNRO Change.

TAXIS

There are fewer taxi stands than there used to be, but these days it is much easier than before to hail a cab on the street.

TCA Amsterdam Taxi Centrale – T 020 677 77 77 (or 777 77 77) Electric Taxi Company Taxi-E – T 881 00 44 44

HIRING BICYCLES

Bicycling is a wonderful way to get around Amsterdam. To hire a bike, look in the phone book under ‘Fietsen-verhuur’. A word of warning: always lock up your bike, as bike theft is rife. There is a free bicycle parking area at Central Station.

BICYCLE TAXIS

An environmentally-friendly means of transportation in the city centre is offered by the bicycle taxi. You can hail them on the street or reserve one by telephone. www.wielertaxi.nl – T 06 1859 5153 (or 06 2824 7550) www.amsterdambiketaxi – T 06 454 13 725

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In Amsterdam, travelling by water can be done in all sorts of ways.

Canal Bus

stops near all the major museums, shopping areas and attractions.

T 020 626 55 74, address Weteringschans 26, www.canal.nl/bus

Lovers Museum Boat

leaves at the front of Central Station and stops at all the major museums.

T 020 530 54 12, address Prins Hendrikkade 25, www.lovers.nl

Meyer’s Rondvaarten

offers canal cruises and special arrangements on request.

T 020 623 42 08, address Damrak jetty

Water Taxis

are not cheap, but offer an enjoyable means of transportation.

T 020 535 63 63, address Stationsplein 8, www.watertaxi.nl

PARKING

You are strongly advised not to take your car into the inner city. Parking is expensive and

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wheel-clamping is too, at least € 64. You also run the chance of having your car towed due to illegal parking. It will cost you a minimum of € 180 to get you car back! Paid parking in the city centre applies Monday through Saturday 09.00-24.00 and Sunday from 12.00-24.00 hrs.

Car parks can be found at ‘de Bijenkorf ’ (department store near Beursplein, off Damrak), Byzantium (near Leidseplein), Europarking (Marnixstraat 250), Heinekenplein, Museumplein, Prinsengracht 540-542, Waterlooplein and Central Station.

Stadstoezicht / Parking Authority – T 020 553 03 00

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

GVB, Amsterdam’s public transportation company, provides integrated metro, tram and bus service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since 2010, a comprehensive chipcard ticket system allows you to travel on the metro, trams and buses, using just one card. The so-called ‘OV chip card’ is available at the GVB office in front of Central Station, at railway station ‘Amsterdam Lelylaan’ and at railway station ‘Amsterdam Zuid’. The chip card is also available at the ATCB tourist offices, many supermarkets and most tobacconists. When travelling by tram, single-trip chip cards are available from the conductor (please walk to the rear end of the tram). GVB travel info – T 0900 9292, also: www.gvb.nl

SCHIPHOL AIRPORT

How do you travel to Amsterdam Schiphol International Airport?

By car:

Schiphol Airport is only 20 minutes by car from the centre of Amsterdam. The airport is centrally located on the motorway network in the country’s urban agglomeration of Amsterdam, The Hague, Rotterdam and Utrecht. All these cities are rather close at hand, while the rest of the country is easily accessible via the A1, A2, A4 and A9 motorways.

By train:

Schiphol can be reached by train from the city centre in 10-15 minutes. There are also excellent rail connections to the airport from the rest of the Netherlands and from abroad. Schiphol has a stop for the highspeed train, too, taking you to Antwerp, Brussels and Paris. Train tickets are sold at the Netherlands Railways counters and ticket machines at Schiphol Plaza. There are money changing machines here if you need coins.

BUSINESS CENTRE SCHIPHOL

All business and secretarial services are available at Schiphol Airport, including offices and meeting rooms – T 020 653 24 80.

Also: Schiphol Information – T 0900 0141 75 www.youinamsterdam.nl

FAST FACTS

TRAVELLING BY WATER

During a career spanning 42 years, Johan van der Keuken made over 50 documentary films. Here he is shooting his film ‘Bewogen Koper’ (‘Copper Moved’, 1993). (Photo: Noshka van der Lely)

cinema text Carla van Splunteren PhotograPhy noShka van der lely

eYe, the new Dutch filmmuseum, is arounD for about a Year now. You might be interesteD in some highlights that have to Do with two Dutch filmmakers.

Johan van der KeuKen, filmmaker and photographer March 30 - June 9 Johan van der Keuken (1938-2001), a prominent and internationally renowned Dutch filmmaker and photographer, started taking pictures when he was 12.

He published his first photo book at 17. An exceptional double talent, he somehow always knew that he wanted to portray authentic reality.

A witness to the events of our time, Van der Keuken ceaselessly turned his critical eye to the troubles of the modern world, while also researching and developing his own approach to formal and aesthetic matters.

Van der Keuken’s camera was constantly alert to the calamities of our planet, and he lived for many years in the midst of the political struggles of the third world.

During a career spanning 42 years, he made

over 50 documentary films. A noteworthy film about the evils that disfigure the earth, ‘Amsterdam, Global Village’ (1996), is a fresco of daily life dealing with the universal destiny of war victims, the uprooted and those abandoned by society.

This is the first solo exhibition of a Dutch filmmaker in EYE. All films of Van der Keuken are shown. Various short films are projected on huge screens in the exhibition hall. You also get a sense of his personal editing technique.

robby Müller, cameraman for the great May 23 - June 12 Being the favourite lighting director of filmmaker Wim Wenders, Dutchman Robby Müller has established an international reputation for excellence and is considered one of the most influential

cinematographers of the second half of the 20th century. He was honoured with an International Achievement Award of the American Society of Cinematography in February last year.

Born in 1940, in the Netherlands Antilles, Müller started out as an assistant cameraman after graduating from the Dutch Film School. He began working as a cinematographer with Wenders in the 1970s on such films as ‘Kings of the Road’ (1976) and ‘Paris, Texas’ (1984). Later, Müller also became the favourite cinematographer of director Jim Jarmusch.

EYE will screen a selection of 22 of Müller’s best loved films, with a matinee and two evening shows daily. There also will be a daily showing of EYE’s re-release of ‘Paris, Texas’. www.eyefilm.nl

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www.lovelyladies.nl

(for adults only)

amsterDam among the WorLD’s top

CoCktail bars in amsterdam are all the rage I don’t know why, but they’re everywhere all of a sudden: cocktaIl bars. enjoyIng a complIcated drInk In an IntImate, chIc, hIp and mondaIne atmosphere has become all the rage In amsterdam In recent years – and that In an economIcally bad tIme.

text & photography Lizet Deutekom

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he rise of cocktail bars is interesting because cocktails are more expensive and pretentious than a beer or a glass of wine. You have to wait for them for a relatively long time – all the different ingredients needs to be mixed – and… when considering a nice night out, the average Amsterdamer doesn’t seem to me to be the kind to think of cocktails.

Where Do cocktaiLs come from?

It would seem impossible to think that all those trendy looking new bars sustain themselves wholly on the custom of worldly, international visitors who are used to the cocktail culture of cities like London and New York. There must be something else going on. But what?

“Amsterdam currently ranks among the world’s top cocktail cities,” says Jev, barman at the intimate Vesper bar on the edge of the Jordaan area. “Dutch cocktail makers are winning international prizes left, right and centre. I can’t put my finger on it either, but cocktails are really hot here.”

While he talks to me, Jev expertly puts together a few exotic looking cocktails for a group of expats at the next table. They’re served in mugs resembling a totem pole. He squeezes a pomegranate into them, pours a liqueur over the top and holds a lighter to the drink. The totem-pole heads with flaming heads now stare at me grumpily. I want to know more. “The Vesper bar is among the country’s top 3. We use only fresh, organic ingredients and innovate continuously. You know, trying out new tastes and combinations.” cocktaiL WorLD: smaLL WorLD The cocktail world is a small one in which everybody knows everybody. And Jev refuses to be critical of competitors like ‘Door 74’ and ‘Butcher’… In fact, he frequents the places regularly and exchanges tips and experiences with his colleagues. Perhaps it’s a illustrative of Amsterdam’s current cocktail trend, which seems to be a movement propelled by a group of fair-minded freaks who simply want to deliver a fine product in a fine atmosphere.

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At Tales & Spirits, cocktails are prepared professionally, albeit in a way that is almost impossible to follow.

More than a drink Jev recommended a recently opened cocktail bar just a ten minutes’ walk from Vesper bar: Tales & Spirits.

Behind the bar here, too, works an award-winning cocktail magician. What makes Tales & Spirits extra special is that it’s also a restaurant.

If you want, Tales & Spirits will serve you a matching cocktail with each course. A bit like a wine arrangement, but then with cocktails. And don’t think you’ll get a cloyingly sweet Piña Colada that’s going to completely drown out your delicately prepared scallops.

The combinations are much more refined than that.

Like steak tartare with a New York Sour, which is made of whisky and port. Or the cheese platter with a 7th Regiment Punch made with raspberries and brandy. Obviously, if it’s not your cup of tea, then you can enjoy some very good wines with your food, too.

Anyway, why cocktails and why now? In this establishment, too, I am told that “people simply want to enjoy themselves,” and “we want to offer people something special in an intimate atmosphere where everybody feels at ease”. I have nothing against that, of course. But... again: why cocktails, and why now?!

CoCktail Mania So what has set off this cocktail mania? A number of years ago, I seem to remember, various ordinary

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bars suddenly started putting cocktails on the menu.

Between dancing and drinking beers, you could order something different for a change. A mojito, for instance, or a caipirinha, often hastily prepared by an overworked barman after fumbling around with sprigs of mint and sticky slices of lime. It was as if the owner had returned from an exotic holiday and decided to put the local beverage of choice onto the menu here. A bit weird but... the ladies loved it.

Is that why the cocktail bars suddenly sprouted up all over the place? Had the mojitos on the menu become too ordinary? The sudden appearance of the cocktail bar certainly heralded a shift towards refined little works of art. Works of art prepared by knowledgeable staff and charmingly served on tidy little black serviettes, with a chilled glass of water and a bowl of chic nuts.

In my opinion, it’s a positive trend. The care and attention, the craftsmanship, the comfy chairs, the feeling of being a woman of the world as you nip such a beautiful cocktail… Maybe the reason behind cocktail bars isn’t all that important and we should simply embrace the fact that they exist. Three cheers for the cocktail bar! An international phenomenon that has finally taken hold in Amsterdam’s nightlife. And in no way half-heartedly. Amsterdam is firmly on the world cocktail map. I’m going to enjoy it.

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“I can’ t put my finger on it”

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1. The Fall & Figs is sweet rather than sour and mild rather than strong.

Based on the author’s personal experiences and tips from barman Jev, here’s a list of recommended Amsterdam cocktail bars:

2. The Barbacoa is quite a strong, somewhat bitter cocktail.

Vesper Bar Vinkenstraat 57 (Jordaan) – www.vesperbar.nl A tiny bar in a quiet little street on the edge of the Jordaan. A relaxed atmosphere, friendly staff and a crowd comprising of locals, tourists, expats and quite a number of regulars. The creative menu is often updated and the barman is an expert advisor to his guests. Very busy from Thursday through Sunday, but also very worthwhile.

Door 74 Reguliersdwarsstraat 74 (Centre) – www.door-74.com A modern classic among the Amsterdam cocktail bars and number 29 in the worldwide cocktail bar top 50. Guests need to book by telephone on the day they wish to make a visit and ring the doorbell to get in. It is busy, dark, trendy and expensive, but the cocktails are divine. Open daily from 20:00. T +31 6 34045122.

Vesper’s menu, a cleverly chosen matrix of sweet to sour and mild to strong.

Hps (HiDing in plain sigHt) Rapenburg 18 (Centre) – www.hpsamsterdam.com A real cocktail bar in speakeasy style. A lot like Vesper in many ways, but a little bigger. The crowd is trendy and artistic. The cocktails rank among the city’s best and they organise a monthly pop-up dinner with special guest-chefs.

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1. Cocktails as friendly companions, smiley faces almost? Is that perhaps why Amsterdam ranks among the world’s top cocktail cities?

2 & 3 Barman Jev working behind the bar at Vesper.

Vesper bar is among the country’s top cocktail bars.

Dvars Reguliersdwarsstraat 44 (Centre) www.dvars.nl Located at the heart of the famous gay area, but not particularly a gay bar.

Dvars serves special wines, classic as well as new cocktails and fantastic bar food until about an hour before closing time.

‘Canvas op De 7e’ Wibautstraat 150 (East) www.canvas7.nl A bit of an alternative rather than classic bar and a good place to dance.

‘Canvas op de 7e’ is on the seventh floor of the former de Volkskrant building (de Volkskrant being a Dutch daily newspaper). Where journalists used to sweat over their articles to meet the deadline, you can now relax on Chesterfields and at little tables, which are moved to one side later on in the evening so that people can dance.

Affordable and very good cocktails.

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MoMo Hobbemastraat 1 (Centre/South) www.momo-amsterdam.com This is the kind of bar you might find in other countries, too: it is part of a hotel and is a restaurant as well. It is well lit, chic and elegant end frequented by a cosmopolitan crowd. The cuisine is pan-Asian and the cocktails are as they should be.

House of Bols Paulus Potterstraat 14 (South) www.bols.com Not really a true cocktail bar, but a great place to go if you want to learn about the typical Dutch drink jenever and even more so if you’d like to learn how to make cocktails yourself. At House of Bols they provide cocktail workshops for groups of six or more people. Price: ¤ 35 per person, including a tour and three cocktails.

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