Cape Crusaders

WineTime’s Jon Atkinson heads to South Africa for his latest picks

BEING SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE, South Africa usually gets badged as ‘New World’, but aside from it having a winemaking heritage going back more than 400 years, the styles of wine that it produces is much more diverse and complicated than the usual ‘fruit bombs’ that are typically associated with wines made south of the equator.

The most widely planted grape variety on the Cape (which just happens to be a favourite of mine) is Chenin Blanc, which once upon a time was known as Steen, but there is a plethora of different varieties

Vondeling ‘Baldrick’ Voor-Paardeberg Shiraz 2019

available to Cape winemakers, many of whom are looking to shake things up and push boundaries with their craft.

This drive to constantly push the envelope is admirable given many hurdles and challenges that the Cape wine industry has faced over the years, ranging from the dark days of Apartheid to government policy regarding domestic sales of alcohol during the pandemic.

Here are a handful of recommendations that give a reasonable overview of the quality that is on offer from South Africa right now...

Is it part of Paarl or the Swartland? The young Voor-Paardeberg region faces Paarl to the east and the Atlantic Ocean to the west, but the northern slopes of the Paardeberg itself are home to some of the most celebrated vineyards of the Swartland. This Janus-like identity means it sometimes gets overlooked but it should not, for its microclimate is something special. The prevailing winds off the ocean moderate the hot climate and give the wines an enticing freshness. This is quite a fresh style of Shiraz that is juicier than most Aussie versions but still fruit driven. It has hints of Cape smokiness with a distinct coffee note alongside the dark fruit and yes, it is named after the character from Blackadder! £12.25

Southern Right Hemel-en-Aarde Sauvignon Blanc 2022

The Hemel-en-Aarde (Heaven on Earth) valley in the cool, southern climes of South Africa’s Walker Bay is regarded as one of the most exciting wine-growing regions on the Cape. Southern Right is the second of three estates owned by Anthony Hamilton Russell. As with HR growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Southern Right just focusses on just two varieties: Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc. A recent development with this wine is the addition of a small proportion (10%) of fruit grown further south in the even cooler climes of Elgin, regarded as one of the Cape’s most dynamic and exciting up-and-coming wine regions. £13.95

Bergsig Estate ‘Patmos’ Breedekloof Chenin Blanc 2021

Bergsig Estate was established in 1843 by Willem Hendrik Lategan and seven generations on, de Wet Lategan is running the show. They are perhaps slightly beneath the radar on account of their location, which falls just outside of the core of the Cape winelands around Paarl, Stellenbosch et al. The Breedekloof wine valley is found about 100 km north-east of Cape Town. This is a single vineyard wine with grapes being hand-picked, typically two to weeks later than in other wine-growing regions. This is an elegant, yet complex wine with excellent potential for cellaring. The hedonistic intensity and full, creamy texture makes this a terrific (food) wine. £23.50

Meerlust Red, W.O. Stellenbosch 2017

The Estate Red is essentially a ‘baby’ version of Stellenbosch’s flagship ‘Rubicon’ – one of South Africa’s most respected and decorated wines. It is approximately two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and one-third Merlot, with the chief difference to the Rubicon being that this is from younger vines and the period of oak maturation is longer, with a lower proportion of new wood. The wine is quite dense looking with a vivid, dark cherry red colour. The nose offers intense, heady aromas of Morello cherry, spicy cassis and Mocha followed by creamy oak with an earthy minerality. The palate is full and rich but not cloying as there is plenty of lively, natural acidity with juicy plum and blackcurrant fruit, fine silky tannins and good length. £17.95