Restaurant review

Pappa Pepinos

After a morning spent in the sweltering Liverpool heat, my partner and I were hot and starving. We knew it was that special kind of hunger that can only be satisfied by copious amounts of Italian food.

Our eyes were soon glued to a small sign hanging off what looked to be a church. A moustachioed man with pizza between his teeth – a glimpse into my future? We walked through the grassy-walled entrance and felt like we could finally breathe.

Pappa Pepinos couldn’t have been a more inviting sight. Formally a religious building, the restaurant sits adjacent to the Selina hotel. A spacious, uncluttered room with tall ceilings, it gave a feeling of cool, relaxed openness – exactly what we needed after a stroll in the city centre.

We were greeted by a friendly waitress and given our choice of seats. We picked out a wooden picnic table beside the windows and began examining the menu. I could hear the Zanolli Roasted Chicken calling out to me but that would have to wait until next time. As is well-known, an Italian restaurant’s roof is held aloft by the twin pillars of pizza and pasta. They looked up to the challenge. To start, my partner and I both decided to try the Focaccia (£5).

The subtlety of the flavour was amazing. It had been infused with butter and given a layer of cracked salt that all blended perfectly with the oil.

While we waited for our main, our eyes wandered across the walls. A complex fusion of modern and classic styles. Stylish graffiti images of Liverpool’s landmarks sat under original mouldings. A memorial stone, laid in 1875, buried in the wall across from a semicircular bar and DJ booth. Inside and out, the place was a work of art.

For our main, my partner and I went with our favourites. Linguine Alla Meatballs (£12) and Pepperoni Pizza (£12) respectively. When the pizza arrived, I was impressed with the portion size and my first bite didn’t disappoint either. The sauce and cheese tasted fresh and creamy. The pistachios and rocket were surprising and welcome additions which added a subtle, rich nuttiness and peppery flavour. The pork and beef meatballs were succulent and the linguine, cooked al dente, was exquisite with a hint of heat that caught me off-guard, much to the delight of my partner.

For dessert, we both chose the Tiramisu (£6) as it looked delicious and, to my partner’s surprise, it would be my first. With each mouthful, I cursed the world for not insisting I try one sooner.

From the impressive cocktail list, my partner and I shared sips of Angelo Azuro (£9) and Tropical G&T (£8). The former, my partner’s favourite, pops and demands your attention, while the latter is more my style, smooth and refreshing. I’ve never been more upset to be the designated driver.

I’m loath to pigeonhole Pappa Pepinos as just a restaurant. I can’t imagine anywhere else where students can meet to study at lunchtime, couples can enjoy romantic dinners in the evening and then later the tables can be moved as the DJ booth comes to life. Although given their portion sizes, it’d be a while before I’d be hitting the dance floor. Pappa Pepinos hasn’t a hint of pretentious formality and like its bare brick walls, has been stripped back to what really makes a place special. Food. Drink. Friends. Fun. Memories.