Amtrak's ARRIVE magazine featuring WP Theater

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the last one

s ta n d i n g with her ne w book, m tr ain, the legenda ry singer-songwriter patti smith ta kes re a ders on a journe y through lov e, los s a nd a va nishing ne w york

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National Gallery of Art Where masterpieces by European and American artists are joined by exhibitions spanning the world and the history of art

On the National Mall from 3rd to 9th Streets at Constitution Avenue NW, Washington, DC Free Admission Mon–Sat 10–5, Sun 11–6 Closed December 25 and January 1 Photo by Rob Shelley. INSETS: Vincent van Gogh, Green Wheat Fields, Auvers (detail), 1890, National Gallery of Art (NGA), Collection of Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon, Photo by Dwayne Franklin; © 2014 Dennis Brack. All Photos Courtesy of the NGA




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NATIONAL ARCHIVES MUSEUM THROUGH JANUARY 10, 2016 • LAWRENCE F. O’BRIEN GALLERY Spirited Republic is presented in part by the National Archives Foundation through the generous support of HISTORY and the Lawrence F. O’Brien Family.




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making waves

Once-in-a-lifetime display of Japanese masterpieces

SĹ?tatsu: Making Waves is co-organized by the Freer Gallery of Art and Arthur M. Sackler Gallery and the Japan Foundation. The exhibition is supported by All Nippon Airways Co., Ltd. Special thanks to Tokyo University of the Arts. Additional generous support is provided by the Anne van Biema Endowment Fund.

Through January 31, 2016 #sotatsu

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Don’t miss these rare masterpieces On view through January 18

Johannes Vermeer A Lady Writing (detail), about 1665 Oil on canvas. National Gallery of Art, Washington, Gift of Harry Waldron Havemeyer and Horace Havemeyer, Jr., in memory of their father, Horace Havemeyer, 1962.10.1 Presented with generous support from the

Media sponsor

Additional support provided by the Netherland-America Foundation and an anonymous foundation. This exhibition is supported by an indemnity from the Federal Council on the Arts and the Humanities.

November + December 2015


I haven’t really changed much, but of course not just in the clothes I wear. I can see the whole stream of my existence.” F E AT U R E S

—Patti Smith page 60

The Last One Standing | 60

With her new book, M Train, Patti Smith takes readers on a journey through love, loss and a vanishing New York.

Best Hotels in the Northeast | 70

Arrive’s annual roundup of some of the region’s best hotels, inns and resorts.

Restaurant Rows | 82

The best food neighborhoods from Boston to D.C.




2:45 p m

City sidewalks. Unexpected treasures. Georgetown charm. Plan your visit at or call 1-888-301-7001.

November + December 2015

contents 56


d e pa r t m e n t s


Safe or Sorry? | 44

We shell out extra bucks in fear of damage to our homes, bodies and wallets. But is the coverage worthwhile or wasteful? YO U R FAM I LY

Noon-Ball Junkies | 48

A time-honored tradition of pickup basketball connects a son to his father. YO U R H EA LTH

Four of Hearts | 52

52 I emerged from a three-Grigio lunch onto sidewalks teeming with college kids so smart and young they broke my heart. | page 48

Get in the game and don’t let these common cardiac disorders deal you a bad hand. B US I NESS C L ASS

Bye, Bye, Banks | 56

Alternative lending platforms give small-business owners access to financing—no banks required. F I NA L STO P

hy I Love … W The Mad River Valley | 160 Rocker Grace Potter.

Contributors, page 16 Station/Route maps, page 156 Puzzles, page 158

O n th e cov e r : photography by brad trent




First Class

City guide

up to speed

Return to Point Break Warm up with these drinks Shopping on Antique Row Alvin Ailey comes home Stay fit this winter A Philadelphia love story Women’s Project Theater New hope for veterans The King’s Singers A gentleman’s guide to entertaining

Islamic art in Baltimore Boston Comedy Festival Cider Week in NYC What’s new at the Whitney The season of Balanchine An artful holiday A Taste of Providence FotoWeek DC The holidays in bloom Wilmington Beer Week

Community carol sing The Sound of Music New York Botanical Garden Holiday Train Show A Longwood Christmas Newport Restaurant Week Wassail Weekend in Woodstock Bright Star in D.C. Light the National Menorah

12 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

nigel buchanan; craig frazier

Dark Fields of the Republic: Alexander Gardner Photographs, 1859–1872

From Civil War battlefields to the American West, Gardner produced unforgettable images of an era. Through March 13, 2016 #DarkFields

Abraham Lincoln by Alexander Gardner, 1865, Smithsonian’s National Portrait Gallery

8th and F St. NW, Washington, DC 20001 •

all aboard!

Happy Holidays from Amtrak! as the winter holidays fast approach and the calendar fills

with events, I’m reminded of the significant role Amtrak plays in moving America where it wants to go. In addition to our regular business and leisure travelers, from now into the New Year our trains will carry students headed home for a well-deserved break and those looking to share in holiday traditions with family and friends. The services we offer are especially important to many communities along our 15 long-distance routes, where Amtrak is often the only mode of intercity transportation available. For these small and midsized towns, Amtrak is a vital link to our national transportation system. Half of the long-distance trains, such as the Silver Star (New York-Tampa-Miami) and Lake Shore Limited (New York/Boston-Chicago), also serve major cities along the busy Northeast Corridor. Passing through one of our more than 500 stations in the next few weeks, you are likely to encounter festive decorations, tree-lighting ceremonies, musical performances and drives benefiting local food banks. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of Santa Claus. These activities serve to highlight how stations are often at the heart of our communities, considered local landmarks and gathering places. Don’t forget to book your holiday travel early, especially for Thanksgiving. Purchase tickets online at or on our apps, at a Quik-Trak machine or ticket window, or by phone at 800-USA-RAIL. Keep in mind that many regularly unreserved trains, such as the Keystone Service and Empire Service, will require reservations during the busy holiday travel period.

Throughout the year, we strive to improve the customer experience aboard our trains, in stations and on in order to provide you with a safe, convenient and pleasant trip. Work will wrap up next year on a major midlife refresh of our high-speed Acela Express equipment. Since 2011, specially trained Amtrak employees have been overhauling the 20 trainsets introduced for the service’s launch in 2000. The project involves dismantling the cars’ components and replacing them with new or rebuilt components. This strategic overhaul program reduces maintenance costs and enhances the safety, reliability and availability of the Acela trainsets, which carried more than 3.5 million passengers in 2014. Recent station improvements include the installation of a new, cohesive wayfinding signage program at Philadelphia 30th Street Station. It provides millions of visitors with clear directions and information about Amtrak, SEPTA and New Jersey Transit services. The Pennsylvania Department of Transportation provided all funding for the design, fabrication and installation of the approximately 100 ADA-compliant signs. Farther north in Kingston, R.I., Amtrak and the state department of transportation are undertaking a project that includes construction of two high-level platforms. With

the platforms at the same level as the train car floor, passengers will be able to board and alight in a safer, quicker manner. In January we’ll launch a refreshed Amtrak Guest Rewards program to celebrate 15 years of recognizing and rewarding our loyal passengers. Membership is a great way to earn both free Amtrak travel and rewards through our travel, retail and dining partners. Enhancements to the loyalty program will make it simpler to earn points and easier to redeem them. Please check to learn more, and be sure to sign up if you’re not already a member. On behalf of the 20,000 men and women who make up the Amtrak family, I wish you a joyous and safe holiday season. We look forward to seeing you aboard our trains in 2016 and to working to improve your experience on America’s Railroad®. In the meantime, please don’t hesitate to ask a member of our crew if there’s anything we can do today to make your trip better. Sincerely,

Joseph H. Boardman President and Chief Executive Officer

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14 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

november /december 2015 • arrivemagazine .com

Where do doctors send their most challenging spine cases?

Amtrak Editorial Board Darlene Abubakar, Robert Friedman, Alicia Rodrigues, Marlon Sharpe President and Chief Executive Officer Joseph H. Boardman Washington Union Station 60 Massachusetts Ave. NE Washington, D.C. 20002


Editor-in-Chief: Leigh Flayton Senior Art Director: Rob Smith Senior VP, Production: Dan Brenner Production Manager: Jenny Babich Production Technology: Cheri Prime Imaging Specialist: Marilyn Bain Editorial inquiries: ADVERTISING

SVP, Group Publisher Matthew Chervin MANIFEST LLC 228 E. 45th St., 7th Fl. New York, NY 10017 212-574-4389 • Fax: 646-417-5834

Doctors from across the country and around the world know that Johns Hopkins Orthopaedics has unparalleled expertise in spine-related issues. We take the most challenging cases, the common conditions, and everything in between. To find a nearby location, go to

Johns Hopkins Orthopaedics Find a nearby location: Call for an appointment: 866-754-0870

Advertising Directors New York/Pennsylvania/New Jersey/New England Heather Reynolds Direct: 917-804-1145 JHO_AMTRAK_Drs_Send_FINAL.indd 1 Washington, D.C./Maryland/Virginia Andrea Hess Direct: 202-721-1482 Mobile: 202-557-5357 Executive Assistant Alexandra Delasos 212-574-4368;

9/30/15 12:42 PM

Full-time traveler, Part-time New Yorker.


SVP, Marketing Services Joanne LoPinto 646-256-5516; Senior Marketing Manager Laura Cassella 646-367-2209; Manifest llc

CEO Jason Benedict Content marketing inquiries: EVP Keith Sedlak 646-783-3755;

Copyright © 2015 by National Railroad Passenger ­Corporation (NRPC). All rights reserved. Amtrak, Acela and Arrive are registered service marks of the National Railroad Passenger Corporation. Arrive is published by MANIFEST LLC. Send editorial comments to MANIFEST LLC, 228 E. 45th St., 7th Fl., New York, NY 10017. Unsolicited material must be accompanied by SASE. This ­publication may not be reproduced or d­ istributed in any form or by any means without prior written permission. Requests should be sent to MANIFEST LLC, 228 E. 45th St., 7th Fl., New York, NY 10017.

45th and Madison Avenue • 212.661.9600 •

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve



Lauren Sandler Sandler has written about culture and politics for publications including Time, The New York Times, Elle and Bloomberg BusinessWeek. Her most recent book is One and Only: The Freedom of Having an Only Child, and the Joy of Being One. She lives in Brooklyn.


last one

s ta n d i n g w i t h h e r n e w b o o k , m t r a i n, t h e l e g e n da r y s i n g e r - s o n g w r i t e r pat t i s m i t h ta k e s r e a d e r s o n a j o u r n e y t h r o u g h lov e , lo s s a n d a va n i s h i n g n e w yo r k by l auren sandler

photography by brad trent

60 Arrıve • July/August 2015 •

photo credit

photo credit • November/December • July/August 2015

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• Arrıve


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Brad Trent Trent has shot for Life magazine, Time, Newsweek, Sports Illustrated, Businessweek, Esquire and The New York Times Magazine. For this issue of Arrive, he photographed the cover and feature story “The Last One Standing.”

your family

Noon-Ball Junkies

A time-honored trAdition of pickup bAsketbAll connects A son to his fAther by tim johnston

Tim Johnston Johnston’s new novel is The New York Times best-seller Descent. His previous books include the Katherine Anne Porter Prize-winning collection of stories Irish Girl, and the novel Never So Green. He teaches in the MFA program at the University of Memphis. The author and his father, Joe Johnston

as a carpenter who would travel long distances for work, i was accustomed to loading my truck to the brink with every kind of power tool, but when i left my hometown of iowa city in the summer of 2011 and headed for Washington, D.c., the only tools i packed were those that would fit in a plastic toolbox no larger than the one under my mother’s kitchen sink. »

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courtesy of tim johnston

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Jessica Merrill Merrill writes about food, travel, health and wellness. She lives in Brooklyn, where she enjoys exploring New York City with her two children. Her stories have appeared in several publications, including The New York Times and National Geographic Traveler.

a s t’s the n o rso me of thse re gi on h e un t du p of d re so rt n ro an i , in ns an nu al Ar ri ve


te ls be st ho By

Je ss ic

ri a M er


right: The lobby of

New York Edition

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courtesy of new york edition

photo credit

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


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Limited Edition Prints and Sculptures by:










































































Notable Events Along the Acela Line

the pope in philadelphia On Sept. 26–27, Pope Francis ended his historic visit to the United States with events throughout Philadelphia, culminating in a Papal Mass for World Meeting of Families. The Pope also visited Independence Hall and met with prisoners in the Curran-Fromhold Correctional Facility. clockwise from top left: The

Popemobile carries the pontiff through the streets of Philadelphia; sights and scenes from his historic visit to the City of Brotherly Love.

18 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

clockwise from top left: c. smyth; M. Fischetti (4)

Perhaps you’d like to see a return on your investment. When you give to CHOP, you invest in childhood. Big or small, your gift supports the most dramatic breakthroughs, the most basic care, and everything in between. And the returns? Immeasurable. ©2015 The Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia. All Rights Reserved.

Notable Events Along the Acela Line

The U.S. Open thrills in Queens Serena Williams fell short of capturing the calendar Grand Slam, but the U.S. Open (Aug. 31–Sept. 13) provided thrills galore for spectators, including Roberta Vinci’s stunning victory over Williams and the spectacular final between Novak Djokovic and Roger Federer, with Djokovic grabbing the title in four sets. clockwise from top left: Overall view of Louis Armstrong Stadium; Novak Djokovic with the men’s singles trophy; Flavia Pennetta celebrates her women’s singles championship; Vanessa Williams performs at the opening ceremony.

20 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

clockwise from top left: USTA/Garrett Ellwood; Ned Dishman (2); Pete Staples

See Europe’s world-class collections, only in Washington




The Staechelin & Im Obersteg Collections OCTOBER 10, 2015-JANUARY 10, 2016 l TICKETS AT PHILLIPSCOLLECTION.ORG The exhibition is co-organized by The Phillips Collection and the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina SofÍa in collaboration with the Im Obersteg Foundation and the Rudolf Staechelin Family Trust. Generous funding is provided by the Rudolf Staechelin Family Trust as well as Sotheby’s and the Robert Lehman Foundation.

1600 21st Street, nw Washington, dc

With significant contributions from Les Dialogues de l’Art, Basel Brought to you by the Exhibition Committee for Gauguin to Picasso: Masterworks from Switzerland: Joan and Dan Mulcahy and Harold and Nancy Zirkin. The exhibition is supported by an indemnity from the Federal Council on the Arts and the Humanities.

Paul Gauguin, NAFEA faaipoipo (When Will You Marry?), 1892. Oil on canvas, 40 x 30 1/2 in. The Rudolf Staechelin Collection; Pablo Picasso, The Absinthe Drinker, 1901. Oil on canvas, 31 7/8 x 23 5/8 in. Im Obersteg Foundation, permanent loan to the Kunstmuseum Basel © 2015 Estate of Pablo Picasso / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

Additional support is provided by

Notable Events Along the Acela Line

Indiana jones comes to the capital Washington, D.C.’s National Geographic Museum unveiled its new exhibit, “Indiana Jones™ and the Adventure of Archaeology” (through Jan. 3), an interactive spectacle featuring props from the films, set designs, costumes, models and more. Also on view: artifacts from the collections of the Penn Museum and National Geographic Society. clockwise from top left: Costumes from Indiana Jones; museumgoers enjoy the exhibition and setting, along with the interactive aspects and the lifelike model of Indiana Jones, as portrayed by actor Harrison Ford in the films.

22 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

clockwise from top left: Christy Solberg/National Geographic; Jeff Martin (5)


Smithsonian American Art Museum Renwick Gallery

Pennsylvania Ave. at 17th St. NW | Washington DC Dale Chihuly’s Slate Green and Amber Tipped Chandelier, Photo by Ron Blunt

Notable Events Along the Acela Line

dixon place’s annual gala On Sept. 20, Dixon Place, the “artistic incubator” theater on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, held its annual fundraiser in support of its mission to present original works of art at all stages of development. In addition to live performances by Stew, David Cale and Nancy Giles, among others, James Lecesne (The Absolute Brightness of Leonard Pelkey) received the Dixon Place Honor Award.




from top: Dixon Place founder and artistic director Ellie Covan announces the 2015 honorees; a performance by Monstah Black, winner of the 2015 Tommy Award and a Dixon Placecommissioned artist whose new piece will premiere next season.




holden caulfield onstage Over the summer, The New Ohio, an OBIE Award-winning festival of groundbreaking theater works, celebrated 20 years of programming, closing this year’s lineup with a world premiere of Holden, a new play written by Anisa George of the Philadelphia-based theater company George & Co. from top: (from left) Scott Sheppard


and Matteo Scammell perform Holden at the Ice Factory Festival; Scammell, Sheppard, Bill George and Jaime Maseda in a scene from Holden at the Ice Factory Festival.

GAMBLING PROBLEM? CALL 1.800.GAMBLER 24 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

from top: Peter Yesley (2); plate3



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things to do on and off the train

Philadelphia’s City Hall He may not be the tallest figure in the city any longer—he was overshadowed by One Liberty Place in 1987—but the statue of William Penn atop Philadelphia’s City Hall still stands as a beacon of democracy. It took 30 years (1871–1901) to complete the landmark building, which was designed by Scotsman John McArthur Jr. to be the world’s tallest. But it never held that honor. The Eiffel Tower (opened in Paris in 1889), although unoccupied, was taller and, in 1909, New York City’s Metropolitan Life Building earned the distinction of being the tallest inhabitable building in the world.

26 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

preston schlebusch

Back to Point Break 28 Some Like It Hot 30 Shopping Along Antique 32 Row, Philadelphia Home for the Holidays 34 Work It Out 35 Philadelphia: A Love Story 37 A Theater of One’s Own 38 Healing Wounded Psyches 40 The Fab Six 41 The Guy’s Guide to 42 Holiday Entertaining

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve



Back to Point Break

A classic action film gets a character-driven reboot


oint Break was more than just a success in 1991—it was an inspiration. “Many extreme athletes say it influenced them even though the sports they pursued—like wingsuit flying—weren’t in the movie, and some didn’t even exist yet,” says Ericson Core, who once worked as a mountain climbing guide and is now the director of the new Point Break remake. For Luke Bracey, whose father put him on a surfboard before he could even stand, the movie was a cultural touchstone among surfers in his native Australia. So stepping into Keanu Reeves’ Johnny Utah role was “the perfect mix” of intimidating and exhilarating, he says. “I was over the moon, but because I loved the original so much I understood other people’s trepidation.” Surfing (and some skydiving) drove the original, but newer thrill-seeking pursuits are at the heart of the reboot, which opens Christmas Day and

Luke Bracey in Point Break.

reimagines the story on a far grander scale. “The stakes are higher, and the scale is more worldly,” Core says. “We keep the ethos intact, but it is very much a film of now.” In the original, a group of Venice Beach surfers robbed banks to fuel their own “endless summer,” but the new film’s group—featuring actors from Australia, Venezuela, Germany, Norway and Sweden—are wreaking havoc with financial markets to “give back to the earth,” Core says. “They are environmental warriors or terrorists, depending on how you look at it.” Core, who made his name as cinematographer on the original The Fast and the Furious movie—itself a reimagining of Point Break—hired the world’s best extreme athletes instead of stuntmen for the snowboarding, motocross, wingsuit flying and free rock climbing. “We want to keep it authentic,” he says. “This is antithetical to the

Around the World with Point Break Point Break took the cast and crew to 10 countries on four continents, yet both Ericson Core and Luke Bracey had the same favorite spot: Angel Falls in Venezuela, the world’s longest uninterrupted waterfall, with a drop of more than 3,000 feet. Core set up a base camp for everyone in the dense jungle at the bottom and flew by helicopter to the top every day. “It was so remote and otherworldly,” he says. “I felt deep gratitude for being able to film there.” “Very few people get to camp there,” Bracey adds. “I definitely did not take it for granted. It was spectacular.”

[computer-generated] movies; they are a thrill ride, but we wanted to limit the green screen and film this more documentary style. That grounds in reality.” Bracey did some surfing, motocross and even part of a free rock climbing scene. “My mom would have had a heart attack,” he says. But he adds that at its core the movie was about more than breathtaking stunts. “Ericson is not only well-versed in action movies; he’s very concerned about character and story.” Indeed, Core says he loves the films of the 1970s “when character led events,” and bemoans recent commercial blockbusters “where events overtook character—they are thrilling, but there’s not the same emotional attachment.” While adamant that he is not comparing himself to David Lean, he uses epics such as that director’s Lawrence of Arabia as motivation, to create grandeur in the name of character and story. “The scale of the action is huge but in a symbiotic relationship with the story,” Core says. “We wanted our characters to have a real arc with real obstacles.” —Stuart Miller Alcon Entertainment/Warner Bros. Pictures


“ONE OF THE GREAT MUSICALS OF THE LAST DECADE IS BORN ANEW. A FIRST-RATE PRODUCTION OF A TRANSPORTING MUSICAL. Any qualms theater-lovers might have about this being a premature revival will vanish like

frost in strong sunlight when the young cast of both hearing and deaf actors floods the stage.” “It ranks among the most emotionally charged renderings of a musical to come to Broadway in the past decade, one that all who love the genre should




Photo: Joan Marcus

Extremely Limited Engagement • Through January 24 only! Visit TICKETMASTER.COM or call 877-250-2929 BROOKS ATKINSON THEATRE, 256 W. 47 TH ST., NEW YORK, NY

C o c k ta i l

Some Like It Hot

“Crock-tails” and other winter warmers spice up the season


hen tasting room manager Hannah Blymier first brought out the crockpot at the Catoctin Creek distillery in Purcellville, Va., she was simmering a batch of sugar syrup. Now, she’s brewing up cocktails for wintertime visitors to the distillery. It may seem like an unusual way to put a slow-cooker to work. But bars and restaurants (and the odd distillery) are getting creative with hot drinks, utilizing crockpots, vintage Thermoses and more. For example, Blymier uses the crockpot to simmer a fragrant mulled cider with apple juice, maple syrup or brown sugar, and spices, adding whiskey at the last minute. Here are a few winter warmers to seek out this season. —Kara Newman

Bangkok Surprise at Jockey Hollow Bar & Kitchen Head bartender Christopher James uses a Thai-style crockpot warmed by a tea light underneath to brew up this sweetand-spicy drink before ladling it into tea cups. Made with Jamaican rum, bourbon, sweetened Thai coconut milk and plenty of spice, the finishing touch is a dose of The Bitter End Thai Curry bitters. 110 South St., Morristown, N.J.; 973-644-3180; jockeyhollowbar Farmhouse Lavender Lemonade at Catoctin Creek Distillery Weekend tours of this family distillery often conclude with a crockpot cocktail when the mercury drops. The Farmhouse Lavender Lemonade (made with Catoctin Creek’s Watershed Gin, honey, lemon and fresh lavender) is a particularly welcome surprise; you don’t see many warm gin drinks. Note: Drink offerings change monthly. 120 W. Main St., Purcellville, Va.; 540751-8404; Mezcal Hot Chocolate with Green Chartreuse at Belly Wine Bar Playful warm drinks—like the Mezcal Hot Chocolate, Lemon Chamomile Toddy and spiced Hot Buttered Rum— are available every day in wintertime. On “Thermos Thursdays,” drink options sized for one or two tipplers are served in kitschy vintage Thermoses. 1 Kendall Square, Cambridge, Mass.; 617-494-0968; Tonka Bean at Mace At this East Village newcomer, all drinks are named for spices. Bartender Nico de Soto created this rich, complex winter warmer with coconut oil-infused rum, tonka bean syrup (tonka bean’s flavor is often likened to vanilla, but with fruity/spicy tones), almond water and French roast coffee. It’s then brewed in an espresso machine and served hot in an espresso cup. 649 E. Ninth St., New York, N.Y.; 212-673-1190; The Farmhouse Lavender Lemonade at Catoctin Creek Distillery in Purcellville, Va.

Molly M. Peterson






Antique Row, Philadelphia Like many urban areas in the Northeast, Philadelphia has experienced a dramatic influx of population and investment in the past 15 years. One of America’s oldest cities has handled this resurgence in a particularly future-focused way, as entrepreneurs and politicos have used the changing demographics as an opportunity to roll out innovative housing and infrastructure. While neighborhoods like Northern Liberties or the Philadelphia waterfront undergo complete transformations, even long-established places have more silently adapted to the new energy. To that effect, we tour Antique Row and its environs in Center City. Where cheekby-jowl storefronts of highboys and dowry chests once existed, antiquarians now share space with an assortment of retailers whose diversity supports contemporary cosmopolitan life. —David Sokol

32 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

1 / Omoi Zakka Shop Walk several blocks west of Antique Row’s pulsating center, and you’ll find yourself transported to the other side of the world. The Japanese words omoi zakka roughly translate to “mundane yet lovingly thoughtful things.” Since 2006, the store going by this name has been importing Japanese stationery, objects and other tools of everyday life that are as endearing as they are necessary. Owner Elizabeth Sieber has more recently widened Omoi Zakka’s geographic grasp. So in addition to enamel-dipped trowels and handstitched notebooks from the Land of the Rising Sun, be on the lookout for global finds like Scandinavian headphones and Italian ballpoint pens. 1608 Pine St.; 215-545-0963;

2 / M. Finkel & Daughter M. Finkel & Daughter proves Antique Row’s long heritage: Morris Finkel opened an eponymous store here in 1947, when Pine Street was already firmly established as a center for 18thand 19th-century furniture and decorative arts. After graduating from college in 1975, Morris’ daughter, Amy, joined the family business, which quickly registered the addition. Besides sporting a revised name, the gallery today reflects Amy’s interest in women’s contributions to Americana, having become a world-renowned dealer in samplers and needlework. 936 Pine St.; 215-627-7797; 3 / The Foodery Jack and Monica Lee’s small empire of Philadelphia-area bottle shops was born at this Pine Street postage stamp three decades ago. Despite its sliverlike size, this flagship stocks more than 800 different craft beers. It has a reputation as a reliable source of brews for an audience that can discern malt character from hoppiness—and have strong opinions about their balance. The Foodery’s selection of accompanying sandwiches and antipasti is equally tailored to savvy palates. 324 S. 10th St.; 215-928-1111;

4 / Repo Records To venture from Antique Row in another direction, turn toward South Street, which, too, has retained some flavor from an earlier era. Repo Records is one longtime destination responsible for maintaining that link. Dan Matherson has been operating his music emporium in this location since 1998. While this valet of vinyl is a fan of the alternative music of his heyday, Matherson by no means looks backward. He seeks out new college-radio darlings, and the store is full of new physical-format releases. 538 South St.; 215-627-3775; 5 / Atomic City Comics The rise of record collectors and craftbeer enthusiasts seems to coincide with the burgeoning popularity of the graphic novel. Your shopping trip would not be complete, then, without a visit to this decades-old retailer of all genres illustrated. The tomes sit alongside dollar comics, memorabilia and gear— plus gems from owner Darryl Jones’ personal collection—in a welcoming environment. Relish a new purchase in throne-like seating, earn superhero status at one of the store’s arcade games or simply engage an encyclopedic staffer in cult conversation. 638 South St.; 215-625-9613;


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from left: courtesy of Omoi Zakka shop; M. Finkel & Daughter

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• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


Abraham. Also making its world premiere is the much-anticipated Awakening by Battle, his first new work for the Alvin Ailey Dance Theater since becoming artistic director in 2011. The company will take the new material on the road again in February for a three-month, 20-city North American tour. Looking ahead, Battle speaks to this troupe’s ability and imperative to celebrate its legacy and to “remain on the precipice” of innovation. “I’m always keeping my eye open for those new choreographers and dancers who will continue to make this company the success that it is and ensure that, when you come to an Ailey performance, you not only see it but you feel it,” he says. “And you leave with something tangible that feeds the soul.” —Eric Wybenga

Artistic director Robert Battle behind the scenes at Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater.


Home for the Holidays Alvin Ailey Dance Theater takes the stage at City Center


t’s been an eventful year for the Alvin Ailey Dance Theater. After the company’s annual spring stand at Lincoln Center, it staged a string of summer performances in Paris at the Les Étés de la Danse International Dance Festival. Then came a trip to South Africa, a reprise of the historic 1997 residency that followed apartheid’s fall and the lifting of the international cultural boycott. Performances in Johannesburg and Cape Town, along with master classes and outreach in the country’s townships, exemplified the troupe’s congressionally designated role as U.S. cultural ambassadors. Now the company brings it all back home to end 2015, with its annual New York season at City Center (Dec. 3–Jan. 4; It’s a holiday tradition that’s perennially charged with

the excitement of premieres and special events. “It’s historic, really,” says artistic director Robert Battle, “because over 40-something years the company’s been performing [there].” He reflects on the performers “who have graced that stage and been a part of the legacy of the company,” such as the legendary Judith Jamison, Dudley Williams (who died in May after dancing with the company for 40 years), “and Mr. Ailey himself.” Along with three new productions of original works by founder Ailey, the holiday run introduces Piazzolla Caldera by Paul Taylor, whom Battle describes as “an American master.” Making world premieres are works by two choreographers who have a history with the company: Open Door by Ronald K. Brown and Untitled America: First Movement by Kyle

34 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

LEAPING OFF THE PAGE My Story, My Dance, a new children’s book by Lesa ClineRansome (with illustrations by James E. Ransome), tells the remarkable story of how Alvin Ailey artistic director Robert Battle, born bowlegged, was first inspired to dance as a young man when he saw Revelations performed by the company he would one day lead. “I was very vigilant as a child,” Battle says, “paying attention to people who had information that you would need as you go on your journey.”

Paul Kolnik


Work It Out

Move your workout indoors this winter with these creative classes


he weather has gone cold, but that doesn’t mean your fitness routine has to. Creative exercise classes are cropping up all over the Northeast, from a boxing-Pilates hybrid to indoor rowing to upside-down yoga. So ditch the slush and take things inside with these workouts. —Nicole Cammorata

Piloxing at Merge Dance Studio

Channel Rocky Balboa in the City of Brotherly Love in this high-intensity class combining boxing, dance and standing Pilates (think balancing on one leg) into an epic, bulge-battling workout. Each hourlong session includes the option of weighted gloves to punch things up while dance moves keep you light on your feet. 4047 Cresson St., Philadelphia; 215-266-1311;

Christopher Harrison, anti-gravity yoga incorporates a series of moves done with a silk hammock hung from the ceiling. The poses alleviate joint strain and make gravity work in your favor. 49 W. 24th St., New York City; 212-604-9766; Jounce at Van Gogh Lounge

Put some spring in your step with a throwback to childhood: the backyard trampoline. Jounce ( jump plus bounce) on a mini-trampoline, then combine pull-ups, push-ups and squats for a fullbody burn. “It’s a great workout without feeling like you’re actually working out,” says co-founder Stacey Liakos. Basspumping beats and disco lights turn each club-hosted class into an all-out party. 115 Harris Ave., Providence; 401-787-4665; Indo-Row at Btone Fitness

Anti-gravity aerial yoga at Studio Anya

If you’re looking to shift your perspective, give aerial yoga a whirl. Developed by dancer, gymnast and yogi Aqua Studio in New York

Row, row, row ... without a boat? Compete in two teams of five just steps from the Charles River atop WaterRower machines, which mimic the feeling of being on the water, in this low-impact class with practically no learning curve. “My heart rate has never gotten higher,” says owner and instructor Jody Merrill. “Nothing even compares.” 30 Newbury St., Boston; 617-578-8663; Aquacycling at Aqua Studio NY

As the only aquacycling studio in the United States, this sleek spot is the ultimate place to burn off a stressful day. Pedal through the 45-minute class on a stationary bike that sits submerged in a serene, candlelit 4-foot-deep pool. “It’s like a workout in a spa,” says Anne Koller, an instructor and head of business development. “It’s magical.” 78 Franklin St., New York City; 212-966-6784; Marilou Daubé

Energize Element Hotels Clearing your head makes room for new ideas. At Element Hotels, bikes to borrow make it easy. Book now at

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©2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Element and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


! E IV L IT E E S ! ia h lp e d First time in Phila

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Philadelphia: A Love Story

In a new memoir, a city native takes us on a journey of the heart


eth Kephart loves Philadelphia. “It’s in my blood,” she says. “My mother was born in southwest Philadelphia, on Guyer Avenue. And I grew up with her stories and my uncle’s stories and my grandmother and grandfather’s stories of Philadelphia … I just always loved it.” Kephart shares her passion in Love: A Philadelphia Affair, just out from Temple University Press. In nearly 40 essays, she takes us on an intimate tour of her beloved city not as tourists gaping at landmarks but as close friends being shown secrets of the author’s heart and, in turn, seeing a reflection of our own. Her grandmother’s old house on Guyer Avenue, along with her green eyes, clouds of hair and the endless summer days, easily evokes memories of our own grandmother. So goes it with a memoir, Kephart says, which might be thought of as the intersection of memory and place. “Memoir is a search for the truth,” she adds, “a universal truth, nested within the very particular details of one person’s life.” Kephart has written other memoirs and books about memoir writing. Love is her soulful exploration of such public places as Reading Terminal Market, Old City and the Philadelphia Museum of Art through a deeply personal perspective. And one section of the book is devoted to places beyond the city. “If I were trying to write this as a 30-year-old,” says Kephart, who is in her mid-50s, “I wouldn’t have the depth; I wouldn’t have the layers to work with. I could only describe the now. To write a book like this you … you have to have the then.” “Then” in Philadelphia was

sometimes not easy to love. “I lived in the city when you walked down the street on a Sunday and you were alone and the dust was blowing in your face along with the McDonald’s wrappers,” Kephart recalls. Now the city is resurgent, she says, citing public art projects, revitalization along the Schuylkill River and a vibrant restaurant scene. “It is thrilling to be on the new boardwalk, or to walk from the train station to the Drexel campus and over to Penn—to see what everybody is doing.” Many of the essays in Love appeared first in the Philadelphia Inquirer, and Kephart has written more since the book went to press. “You’re never going to stop me from writing about Philadelphia,” she says. —Greg G. Weber

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Memoir Writing with Beth Kephart

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Beth Kephart, author of more than 20 books, teaches memoir writing at the University of Pennsylvania and is a student of the art herself. “I am endlessly rethinking memoir,” she says, “pulling all the books from my shelf, buying new ones and saying, ‘But what is it?’ ’’ The fourth edition of her book, Handling the Truth: On the Writing of Memoir, was published in July. Learn more about her books at ©2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Aloft and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit Not all properties are participating in this offer.

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


clockwise from top left: Jeb Brown as Hank in last season’s The Undeniable Sound of Right Now by Laura Eason; Bright Half Life playwright Tanya Barfield (left) with

Women’s Project producing artistic director Lisa McNulty on opening night; and Rachael Holmes and Rebecca Henderson perform in Bright Half Life.

t h e at e r

A Theater of One’s Own

Nearly 40 years after its founding, the Women’s Project Theater ushers in a new era


n 1978, emboldened by the women’s movement and possessed by the heady, pot-stirring zeitgeist of the times, theater producer Julia Miles founded the Women’s Project Theater and a revolution was born. WP originally was conceived as an offshoot of the American Place Theatre (hence the word “project”). Determined to do something about the onedimensional presentations of women in theater and the woefully small number of women playwrights, Miles challenged the prevailing ethos in which only 6

percent of plays produced on American stages were written by women. Thirty-seven years later, the number has improved—a recent New York State Council on the Arts report puts it at 22 percent—but there’s a long way to go to achieve parity. The WP is doing its part. It’s the nation’s oldest and largest theater company dedicated to developing, producing and promoting the work of women and female-identified theater artists. And now, the WP ushers in a new era—in September it assumed residency

38 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

of the 108-seat McGinn/Cazale Theatre on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. It’s the first time in the project’s history that it has a theater of its own. “We have the opportunity to make 76th and Broadway the destination for some of the most exciting theater in town,” says Lisa McNulty, the WP’s producing artistic director, “which happens to be entirely devoted to women artists and their brilliant, incredible theatrical talents.” Miles’ original mission is served by many programs, including a Playwright In Residence program and the Main Stage series, which features a full season of off-Broadway productions. But perhaps the WP’s greatest hallmark is the two-year WP Lab offering mentorship and new play development for women playwrights, directors and producers. “The thing that’s most gratifying to me about the Lab,” says McNulty, joan marcus (2); top right: Caitlin McNaney

“We have the opportunity to make 76th and Broadway the destination for some of the most exciting theater in town, which happens to be entirely devoted to women artists and their brilliant, incredible theatrical talents.” —lisa mcnulty

“is that we’re bringing together a community of women artists who will become each other’s prime collaborators throughout their careers. I’m beginning to see it happen, and it’s just thrilling.” Filled through a highly competitive process, the Lab provides its members with a vital professional network, entrepreneurial and leadership training, rehearsal space and opportunities for the development and production of their original work. Luminaries such as Eve Ensler, María Irene Fornés, Katori Hall, Pam MacKinnon, Lynn Nottage and Leigh Silverman found early artistic homes at the WP; 11 anthologies of plays have been published; and more

than 600 main stage productions and developmental productions have been produced. In part because of Julia Miles’ vision, the number of produced works by women playwrights continues to grow nationwide. But there is still work to be done. As the female protagonist in WP Lab member Laura Eason’s play Sex with Strangers, wryly states: “Being a woman is always a huge advantage as an artist.” Thanks to the Women’s Project Theater, however, defining and elevating the next generation of major voices in American theater may someday be reality. For now, the revolution continues. —Nancy Balbirer

The 2015-16 Season The Women’s Project Theater’s new season kicked off with the New York premiere of Sarah Ruhl’s Dear Elizabeth, on through Dec. 5. An epistolary play depicting the long and intimate friendship between poets Robert Lowell and Elizabeth Bishop, the production is directed by Kate Whoriskey. For more information on the new season, go to season-year/201516.


Healing Wounded Psyches

A nonprofit offers new hope for veterans, troops and families suffering from PTSD

A veteran works in the greenhouse at the Gordon H. Mansfield Veterans Community in Pittsfield, Mass.


n 2014, Soldier On, a nonprofit that has served homeless veterans since 1994, launched its Resiliency Program to help veterans, troops and their families who are struggling with PTSD. “This is a game changer,” says Jack Downing, CEO and president of the Leeds, Mass., nonprofit. “Essentially, everything we did for post-traumatic stress and its symptoms—hypervigilance, anxiety, intense mistrust, depression, anger—expecting people to go through cognitive therapy and talk about their traumas and giving them psychoactive drugs wasn’t working. This program is effective, and anyone treated has complete privacy because it’s not run through the government.”

The Resiliency Program is based on published research by Steven Zodkoy, a Doctor of Chiropractic, and Zodkoy’s book Misdiagnosed: The Adrenal Fatigue Link. The Freehold, N.J., chiropractor initially worked with Marines, using a combination of neuro-emotional technique (NET) and nutritional supplements. NET is a noninvasive tool using muscle testing to identify and clear traumatic memories. The first step is lab testing of urine to measure neurotransmitters, which reveals which nutritional supplements will help the emotional and physical health of the patient. The second step involves hands-on work with NET, which allows the practitioner to desensitize the subject to stressors through the coordinated tapping of acupuncture meridians.

40 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

“This approach can reduce emotional and physical complaints by 80 percent in 180 days,” says Zodkoy, noting that it is now required at Marine Corps Base Quantico. In the last 12 months, 300 veterans, active duty troops and their families have entered the program, which is most active in Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York and Pennsylvania, but is available to veterans and soldiers in any area with a volunteer chiropractor or applied kinesiologist trained in neuroemotional technique. Zodkoy expects the network of doctors to expand to more than 1,000 by the end of this year. “Our funding is from private donations, and we are not affiliated with the VA,” he says. “Our program’s success comes from rebuilding our veterans nutritionally and emotionally, so that they can be an active and productive part of society.” Referrals come from Vet2Vet, Wounded Wear and Stop Soldier Suicide as well as self-referrals, and there is no age limit. A U.S. veteran of any war is eligible. Zodkoy’s work caught the attention of Downing, who has devoted the past two decades to improving the lives of homeless veterans through a variety of innovative programs. “A lot of people with mental disorders, addictions and traumas, which homeless veterans often have, can’t connect the dots the way you think they should,” says Downing. “I was frustrated with what I’ve seen our veterans experience in failed treatments. So I thought, ‘Let’s try this.’ ” So far, Downing is impressed with the results. “We started to see a significant calming effect on our residents in our communities,” he says. “They had more ability not to go into crisis mode and were better able to manage their anger and rage. In a pod where all veteran inmates are housed in an Albany, N.Y., prison, one of the guards commented that this was the first time in his career that inmates weren’t yelling and screaming at him. Observationally, I’d say 50 percent of the individuals are responding strongly to the program.” —Echo Garrett courtesy of soldier on


The Fab Six

Hearing the King’s Singers

For nearly 50 years, the King’s Singers have been conducting their own British invasion, with only their voices as instruments


hat British group has even more immediate because we don’t performed thousands have instruments creating a barrier of concerts, made 150 between us and our audiences,” says recordings, won an Jonathan Howard, who sings bass for the Emmy and two Grammys and circulated a cappella group. “Singing is a wonderful 2 million copies of sheet way for us to create a raw, music? human connection with “Singing is a The Rolling Stones, the them.” wonderful way Beatles or the Who would The King’s Singers for us to create not be bad guesses. But the began in the mid-1960s a raw, human correct answer is The King’s at King’s College in CamSingers—a six-man group bridge, England, home to connection with a slightly different one of the most renowned with them.” bent from its fellow British choirs in the world. Six —jonathan howard invaders. young choral scholars You see, they have no began singing around the instruments but their voices. area and, finding themselves increas“The fact that we’re singers and not ingly in demand, officially formed as a instrumentalists makes the performance group in 1968.

The King’s Singers, from left, David Hurley, Jonathan Howard, Timothy Wayne-Wright, Chris Gabbitas, Chris Bruerton and Julian Gregory.

Axel Nickolaus

For this year’s U.S. tour, the King’s Singers will perform songs from their album Postcards. “We amassed a collection of some amazing folk songs, spirituals and pop songs from some of our favorite places around the world, and so we decided to honor them,” says bass Jonathan Howard. Stops on the tour include these in the Northeast: Nov. 8, Union, N.J.; Nov. 12, Storrs, Conn.; Nov. 13, Annville, Pa.; Nov. 15, Washington, D.C.; Nov. 17, Middlebury, Vt. The group’s 150 albums cover a wide range of music, including medieval, sacred, American standards, Christmas classics and pop from the Beatles to the Beach Boys. Many are available for sale and to stream on Apple Music and Spotify.

Since then, 25 singers have been part of the group, with a new member joining when another member retires. The current lineup ranges in longevity from tenor Julian Gregory, who joined last September, to countertenor David Hurley, now in his 25th year. They perform 120 or so concerts a year around the world and, in November, make a swing through the East Coast of the United States. Last year, they performed an acclaimed Christmas show at the Washington National Cathedral in the nation’s capital. “As a group that has a wealth of repertoire from right across the musical spectrum—everything from 16th-century polyphony to 21st-century pop music— we want to try to give the audience something they’ve never heard before,” says Howard, “to challenge their expectations of what they thought a group like ours could sing in the same concert.” —Greg G. Weber

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


Look sharp for the occasion, from head …

… to toe.

Traditional Shaving Set from Mühle; threepiece set from $235 at

Alessio wholecut Oxford shoes from Berluti; $1,680 at

Crowdsource the cooking. June Intelligent Oven; $1,495 at

Never sweat the ice supply. Cube Glass from Nate Cotterman; $90 at

Assign playlist responsibilities to a digital DJ. Cone from Aether; $399 at

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Toast the bicentennial of one of the world’s best distilleries. Laphroaig 200th Anniversary 15-Year Scotch; $79.99 at

Archive every memory with an ergonomic camcorder. Canon XC10; $2,499 at

Reduce afterparty cleanup. Frigidaire Professional 24” Built-In Dishwasher; $1,099 at

Keep the next round chilled while looking cool. Black Chain Ice Bucket from Go Home; $250 at


The Guy’s Guide to Holiday Entertaining

From generations-old recipes to family rituals, the holidays are a time for honoring tradition. Yet to the guy who volunteered to host this year’s festivities, the customs might seem in need of a little manly reinvention. Arrive has scoured the marketplace for such tweaks— products to accelerate meal prep, toast cocktail hour or spruce up a party wardrobe. Consider decking your halls with these macho must-haves. —David Sokol Step up your Instagram game with telephoto and wide-angle capability. Active Lens for iPhone 6/6 Plus from olloclip; $99.99 at

Tighten your grip on slicing and dicing. Masanobu VG-10 Damascus Santoku; from $340 at

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


Safe or Sorry?

We shell out extra bucks to protect our homes, bodies and wallets. But is the coverage worthwhile or wasteful? by meredith heagney + illustrations by nigel buchanan

when deciding whether to spend extra for insurance, healthcare and other just-to-be-safe scenarios, the best tool would be a crystal ball. Will that $50 a month you spend on a home security system eventually thwart a burglar? Or is the only thing missing your $50? »

44 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •


an you get by on a bare-bones health plan to avoid high out-of-pocket insurance expenses? Sure—just try to avoid getting sick or taking a tumble down an icy stoop. Your big trip to Europe next month is all set. You didn’t buy travel insurance, but it would take a life-or-death occasion to stop you from going. Oh, no! Suddenly, Grandma’s in the hospital. Life’s activities—maintaining a home, staying healthy and traveling— are fraught with risk. Businesses capitalize on this unpleasant reality by selling products and services under the guise of “better safe than sorry.” The sales pitch is simple: Spend a little money now, avoid spending big money later. But it can be hard to know when to pay up and when to bet that everything will turn out fine. The best antidote to indecision is information. We consulted experts to help navigate the financial uncertainty in five everyday situations. No one has a crystal ball, but it’s possible to make choices with confidence.

Train, then


HOME Q: Should I install a home security system? A: It depends on your neighborhood, your property and your comfort. We’ve all seen the commercial: Masked man lurks in bushes, watching innocent suburban family eat dinner. Thank goodness they’re protected by a home security system! Those ads might be a bit hysterical, but fear of crime is legitimate. Many people find the money spent on a home security system is worth it just in peace of mind, and home insurance policies are often discounted if the property is monitored. That said, it’s important to know that just because your alarm is sounding doesn’t mean the police are on their way. False alarms are common, and police tend to prioritize other calls: In major urban areas, the response time could be as long as 30 to 40 minutes, acknowledges Stan Martin, executive director of the Security Industry Alarm

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• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


Coalition. (Martin also points out that the bad guys don’t necessarily know the police will take awhile, and the ruckus alone could scare them off.) Kevin Brasler, executive editor of Consumers’ Checkbook, a publication of the nonprofit Center for the Study of Services, offers this advice: If you live in a low-crime area, don’t own many valuables and possess home or renter’s insurance, don’t bother with a security system. The best way to protect you and your home is with simple but sturdy locks. “This isn’t Ocean’s Eleven,” Brasler says. “Almost all burglaries occur when the criminal opens an unlocked door or an unlocked window.”

Q: Should I buy pet insurance? A: Yes, unless you have the discipline to contribute to a pet savings account. The cost of animal healthcare is surging,

fueled by advances in medicine and pet owners’ willingness to do whatever it takes to save their best friends. Today, dogs get chemotherapy, cats get dialysis, and their people get really big bills. Veterinarian Armelle de Laforcade recommends purchasing insurance coverage so owners don’t have to choose between saving their pet’s life and avoiding major debt. “There are a lot of situations like that that are really, really hard,” says de Laforcade, a professor of emergency medicine at the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University. “People feel terrible about having to choose.” De Laforcade insures her own pets. When her 9-year-old golden retriever, Mayday, needed elbow surgery, she paid about $980 of the $3,500 total bill (her tab included her $700 deductible). Make sure to compare plans and read policies closely, de Laforcade says. Avoid

those that exclude breed-related conditions, and find out the maximum annual payout. (It’s standard, however, for plans to require the owner to pay all costs upfront and then be reimbursed.) Another option: Stick $20 each month into a savings account for Fido. That way, you have money if needed, but it’s still yours if he never so much as stubs a paw.

HEALTH Q: Can I choose a healthcare plan with a low premium?

A: Take a close look at your health, age and risk factors, and analyze last year’s healthcare costs. Whether you’re insured through an employer or buy your own coverage, you’re likely to have a choice between levels of healthcare plans, from basic to premium. In government exchanges, plans are classified as bronze,

“Almost all burglaries occur when the criminal opens an unlocked door or an unlocked window.” —kevin brasler

46 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

ParkSouth_Arrive_Oct2015.qxp_Layout 1 10/2/15 1

silver, gold, platinum or catastrophic. The general rule: The lower your monthly premiums, the higher your out-of-pocket costs. You pay less each month hoping to stay healthy; if you don’t stay healthy, you likely will face a high deductible and pay a larger percentage of your bills. “People go right for the lowest premium, and then they’re surprised,” says Sally McCarty, a consumer advocacy expert and the former insurance commissioner of Indiana. McCarty recommends a not-so-fun but important task: Determine how much healthcare you are likely to use, based on your past. Do you have health conditions? Do you plan to have a baby? Are you of an age when health problems tend to crop up? Then look at your plan options and try to determine how much each will cover if you see a specialist, spend a night in the hospital or fill a prescription. Think about those costs versus the money you’d save each month with a lower premium. You might not know how much a hospital stay would cost, but if you know you’d have to pay 40 percent of it, that tells you it would be a big bill. If you’re young, healthy and generally careful, a low premium plan is probably fine, McCarty says.

Q: My doctor offered an expensive

medical test that I’m not sure I need. Should I get it anyway?

A: Decide with your doctor. If he or she leaves it completely up to you, consider finding a new provider. American medicine is changing, and many formerly agreed-upon tests, procedures and drugs are now considered wasteful, harmful or unsupported by science, says Reid Blackwelder, MD, board chairman of the American Academy of Family Physicians. For example, most women remember being told that they should get an annual mammogram starting at age 40. But now, the U.S. Preventive Services Task Force says mammograms should begin at age 50 and occur every two years. (Other groups, including the American Cancer Society, have stuck with the old recommendations.) The best bet when deciding whether to get any test or treatment is to have a

thorough conversation with your doctor about your risk factors, family history, concerns and finances, Blackwelder says. From there, you can make the best decision together. (It’s also worth checking out, where medical associations have identified commonly overused procedures.) Blackwelder encourages people to find a doctor who will take his or her time with them. “We have a responsibility to not just dump (medical decisions) on the patient without a reasonable discussion,” he says.

TRAVEL Q: I’m going on a trip! Do I need to buy travel insurance?

A: Probably not. Travel insurance is

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• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


your family

Noon-Ball Junkies

A time-honored tradition of pickup basketball connects a son to his father by tim johnston

The author and his father, Joe Johnston

as a carpenter who would travel long distances for work, I was accustomed to loading my truck to the brink with every kind of power tool, but when I left my hometown of Iowa City in the summer of 2011 and headed for Washington, D.C., the only tools I packed were those that would fit in a plastic toolbox no larger than the one under my mother’s kitchen sink. »

48 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

courtesy of tim johnston


’d landed a visiting writer position at The George Washington University, and for the next nine months—if I understood things correctly— I would be paid to teach two fiction workshops per semester and to work on my writing. Paid, that is, not even for my writing, but just to do it. I arrived in D.C. in August, and by October I never wanted to leave: For the first time in two decades I was not coming home at the end of the day covered in sawdust, or drywall dust, or any other kind of job-site debris; I had a wonderfully out-of-level 1800s house all to myself; my students called me Professor Johnston with straight faces; and I had at last finished the first draft of the novel I’d been working on for six years. One afternoon in early March I emerged from a three-Grigio lunch onto sidewalks teeming with college kids so smart and young they broke my heart. D.C.’s architecture loomed and glowed. The White House was five blocks that way, the Watergate Hotel four blocks that way. When I passed George Washington near the law school, I rang his bronze boot with my knuckle for luck. My phone began to play its tune, and without breaking my stride I hailed my older brother, the lawyer, winefully across the miles: “My brother! What is up?” It was 1:30 in the afternoon in D.C., which meant it was 12:30 in Iowa City. The heart of the noon-ball hour. Grim News

Noon-ball, as we called those pickup basketball games commencing at noon, was one reason I kept returning to Iowa City year after year. On any given Monday, Wednesday or Friday you could run the court with former college standouts, current high school stars, crafty middleaged coaches, someone’s gutsy freshman daughter, a banker, a restaurateur, a doctor, a carpenter/writer of fiction and one septuagenarian lawyer, who was my old man. Back in the day the old man had been the beanpole star of St. Patrick’s High in Iowa City, where the home team would run screen plays (he’d tell you) off of the humongous steel post at center court. Bad ankles had hampered his college career, but his love of the game

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• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


only seemed to grow more intense with the years. By the time I began playing noon-ball in my 20s, he was a somewhat filled-out middle-aged hoops junkie who hoped to die (he’d tell you) on the basketball court. Now I was middle-aged, and the old man was 74. Younger players were no longer in awe of his longevity; they expected to see him at noon-ball the way they expected to see the sun rise, which, sorry to say, was about his speed these days. Players admired his toughness even as they recognized his limitations. Now when he said he hoped to die on the court, the smiles he got were just a little bit uncomfortable. It happened before the first game, before the old man even got out of his warm-up jacket—but indisputably on the court: shooting around one second, down on the floor the next, all lights all the way out. No pulse, no breath, no anything. Full cardiac arrest. One man’s wish come true. Three glasses of Grigio are nothing to the specter of parental mortality, and my now-sober mind reeled along these lines: I loved the old man, but we had not been close, not really, since I was a boy. As a lawyer, he could talk easily with my lawyer brother, but unless he and I were discussing the building of things— a love of his and a necessity of mine—or reviewing our noon-ball games over a sandwich, we often struggled for conversation. Basketball—and, more recently, golf—allowed us to spend time together without actually saying much to each other. Still, I knew how proud he was that I’d gone my own way, and I knew how eager he was to read this new novel of mine, which I refused to let him read until I could hand him, at the very least, an advance reading copy, or ARC. That March, at the time of my brother’s call, the scenario in which I handed from left: Joe Johnston, his sons Tyler and Tim

(at right) on one of their golf outings.

the accounts of those men who knelt around him in their shorts and Nikes. When he woke up in the hospital a few hours later, all the old man wanted to know was, “Did I make the shot?” No one had the heart to tell him he’d died during warm-ups. Coming Home

the old man an ARC of my novel was still just a fantasy, and I knew I would regret it the rest of my life if he never got to read the book I’d taken so long—too long—to write. In it were a father and son who hardly knew what to say to each other, but whose love was nonetheless obvious. But luck, or perhaps bad luck, was with the old man that day, and when he went down, three fellow players got busy trying to deny him his dream. One was a man accurately called “Doc,” another a dear old friend and former law partner, the third the son of the gym’s owner who knew just where to find the defibrillator and how to use it. A kind of dream team of CPR. But, even so, the old man’s body refused to respond; it turned a stubborn shade of blue. The paramedics arrived, astonishingly quickly, and took over, and at last, after six minutes of perfect stillness, of perfect lifelessness, the old man’s heart beat again. His lungs breathed. The blue faded from his face and lips. He remembers none of those six minutes—no tunnel, no light, he’ll tell you—and my brother was not there, but I have pieced the scene together from

50 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

My visiting writer gig in D.C. ended in May, and I loaded up my one small toolbox and returned again to Iowa City and to noon-ball, where the players approached me one by one and asked how the old man was doing and reported what they’d seen that day. I could hear in their voices and see in their eyes how it haunted them still: a man fallen and dying—dead—on the their own hardwood floor ... And then we played ball. The old man spent that spring recovering from quintuple-bypass surgery. By July he was ready, he told us, if not for the basketball court, then at least for the golf course. We rented carts but even so the going was slow, and my brother and I kept our eyes on him hole by hole, ready to override decades of paternal authority and haul him back to the clubhouse in a heartbeat. At the end of 18 holes he was exhausted but happy. Deep in his rebuilt heart, we knew, he believed he’d taken the first steps toward a noon-ball comeback. By August I’d left Iowa City once again, this time to help a friend with his house in California, and so I was holding a hammer, or a level, or perhaps a cordless drill, when my agent called to say she’d just sold my book. I talked with her for a few minutes, and I talked with my new editor for a few minutes, and then I got back to work. It would be weeks before I really believed the news, and it would be almost a year before I held that first advance reading copy in Amanda Potterfield


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my hands. In the meantime, I was hired by the University of Memphis to teach in its MFA program, and when my first year as a tenure track assistant professor was over, I returned to Iowa City for the long, paid summer in which the writer who teaches is paid, in theory, just to write. I wasted no time heading to noonball—and there he was: dribbling around. Taking shots. Warming up. He hadn’t been playing, but he’d come that day because he knew I’d be there, and also just to ... be there. On the court. In his Nikes, his knee-brace. The distinct sounds and smells of the gym. The feel of the ball in his hands. To no one’s surprise, but to the dismay of all who’d witnessed his collapse the previous March, he tried to play—who would try to stop him?—but it was no dice. He had the heart, but not the knees. And so, that summer, we golfed. Mostly just the two of us, zipping around in his new golf cart. We played five, six times a week. We played in the rain. We swung away, we commented, we missed our putts, we cursed, we drove on. We spent hours together saying almost nothing, and it was perfect. One warm July night we were sitting in our regular restaurant after 18 holes, sipping first glasses of wine with my brother the lawyer, my stepmother and my mother—whose presence at such gatherings and holidays has been one of the great gifts, and lessons in grace, of my life. We were awaiting our meals when I pulled out what I’d been hiding and handed it across the table. “What’s this?” said the old man, reaching. We all watched as he took it in. The title. The name of the author. The weight of it—the undeniable realness of it in his hands. We watched as he turned the ARC again and again in his hands, smiling. His heart doing its quiet work underneath the great scar on his chest. And then we ate dinner.




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• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


your health

Four of Hearts

Get in the game and don’t let these common cardiac disorders deal you a bad hand by amy lynn smith + illustrations by nigel buchanan

your heart is counting on you to play your cards right. Fortunately, there’s plenty you can do to beat the odds of developing serious ticker trouble. “The earlier in life we start healthy strides, the better our long-term health will be,” says Tracy Stevens, MD, a cardiologist and a spokeswoman for the American Heart Association. »

52 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •



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ere’s what you need to know about four common heart disorders and some winning strategies to reduce your risk.

Peripheral Arterial Disease (PAD)

When fatty deposits build up in the body’s arteries, they cause blockages. In the arteries leading to the heart, blockages can cause a heart attack; in the arteries of the legs, they can cause PAD—and the two conditions are often related. The risk factors are the same, too: high cholesterol and high blood pressure, diabetes, obesity and smoking. Symptoms include burning and tingling in the legs that can make walking difficult; pain and cramping at night; and wounds that don’t heal. A walking program is usually part of treatment, and perhaps medications. The most important risk-reduction measure? Don’t smoke, Stevens says. Arrhythmia

Arrhythmias are heart rhythm disorders that can range from a benign nuisance to a life-threatening problem. They can cause symptoms including heart palpitations, skipped heartbeats or a heart rate that’s too fast, too slow or irregular. Risk factors include structural abnormalities in the heart, heart disease, high blood pressure, diabetes and sleep apnea. Stevens says some energy drinks and decongestants may trigger arrhythmias. Avoiding these things and reducing controllable risk factors can lessen the chance of developing a rhythm disorder. Benign arrhythmias don’t require treatment, but more serious ones, diagnosed through a doctor’s evaluation and testing, may require medication or the surgical implantation of a pacemaker or defibrillator.

If your blood pressure level is higher than 120/80, one of the best ways to reverse it is exercise. “I’ll ask people to check their blood pressure before and after exercise,” Stevens says. “It reinforces why your body loves exercise.” Reducing salt intake and controlling sleep apnea are two other ways to lower high blood pressure. If lifestyle changes aren’t enough, medication may be needed.

High Blood Pressure

A significant risk factor for heart disease, high blood pressure is considered a “silent killer” because it typically doesn’t cause symptoms.

Heart Disease

The term “heart disease” encompasses many cardiac conditions, including coronary artery disease, heart valve disease

54 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

and a weakened heart muscle. Stevens says the risk of heart attack and stroke brought on by heart disease can be reduced with two tools: a blood pressure cuff and a tape measure. In addition to keeping blood pressure in the normal range, you should maintain a weight that keeps your waist circumference at a healthy size. “Take your height in inches and divide by two, which gives you a personalized goal of what your waist circumference should be,” Stevens says. Also work on reducing high cholesterol levels, another risk factor, to keep your heart healthy and happy.



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bye, bye,

Banks Alternative lending platforms give small-business owners access to financing—no banks required by jodi helmer + illustrations by craig frazier

not long after Mark Verespy opened The Killarney in 2005, he hit a cash flow crisis. Revenue at the Irish pub in Ludlow, Vt., was not sufficient to cover expenses, putting the business at risk of closing. “I needed funding to keep the business afloat,” he says. As the owner of a new business with lackluster sales, Verespy knew banks wouldn’t give him a loan. To save the pub, he applied for a merchant cash advance, a business loan made in exchange for a percentage of future credit card sales. The contract stipulated that the lender, New York-based Merchant Cash and Capital,

56 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

would provide financing at an annual percentage rate (APR) upward of 30 percent, debited daily from the gross revenue. Despite the high interest rate and daily repayment requirement, Verespy has no regrets about his decision to pursue alternative financing for the pub. “Without that influx of cash, I wouldn’t be in business 10 years later,” he says. The need for options outside of traditional lending models is growing as banks tighten lending restrictions. A Harvard Business School report found that bank loans to small businesses have decreased about 20 percent since the 2008–09 recession.


nter alternative lending. The industry is expected to reach $1 trillion in the next decade, according to Richard Swart, PhD, an alternative-finance researcher at the Haas School of Business at the University of California, Berkeley, and a financial consultant. The market encompasses all financing options outside of traditional banking, including merchant cash advances, direct or peer-to-peer lending, and online lending marketplaces. “This is not a small blip on the lending radar,” says Swart. “The alternative financing industry is disrupting the nature of banking and financing.”

The Need for Alternatives More than half of small-business applications for credit were rejected or businesses were offered less than owners requested, a 2014 report by the Federal Reserve Banks of New York, Atlanta, Cleveland and Philadelphia that covered much of the Eastern U.S. found. While the lack of access to capital is one reason small businesses turn to alternative financing, there is another benefit to nonbank borrowing models. “Alternative lenders are willing to fund a broader range of loan amounts to a more diverse pool of borrowers,” says Tom Green, vice president of small-business lending for Lending Club, an online credit marketplace. Online lenders like Dealstruck, OnDeck and Kabbage offer financing to small businesses, often using capital from institutional and retail investors to fund a wide range of loans from $5,000 to $500,000. In exchange for fixed loan terms and interest rates between the mid-teens and 60-plus percent, most provide loans to subprime borrowers and to startups and businesses with little collateral. (Other online lenders, including Lending Club and BizFi, operate marketplaces that allow businesses to fill out a single application and receive loan offers from multiple companies.) In addition to online lending, often called peerto-peer lending, businesses can also access funding through merchant cash advances. These lenders use automated collection platforms to deduct a predetermined percentage of gross sales from credit card and debit card payments before the cash is deposited into the business bank account. While cash can be obtained quickly, loans are made at much higher interest rates than other financing options. The terms and application requirements differ among lenders, but all alternative finance companies have one thing in common: The demand for nonbank sources of financing is stronger than ever. Three alternative lenders reflect that, figures provided by top officials indicate. Green says Lending Club has facilitated more than $9 billion in loans since 2006. The online lending platform Dealstruck has lent more than $60 million to 500 companies since 2013, CEO Ethan Senturia says. Merchant Cash and Capital has provided $1 billion to 20,000 business owners in the past decade, says Stephen Sheinbaum, president and CEO. “A lot of businesses are willing to accept a higher cost of capital in exchange for the benefits of borrowing from an alternative lender,” says Swart, the researcher. Swart believes that businesses seek alternative

financing for three reasons: simple online applications, faster decision-making, and better customer service than banks and credit unions. Banks often use complicated application and underwriting processes: In attempting to secure credit, the average small-business owner spends 25 hours filling out applications at an average of three conventional banks, according to a Harvard Business School report. Conversely, alternative lenders offer simple online applications that can be completed in under 30 minutes. Alternative lenders also use data-driven algorithms to screen borrowers. Unlike banks that evaluate borrowers based on creditworthiness, alternative lenders often incorporate assessments of current cash flow, business performance and even social media reviews to make lending decisions. Most alternative lenders also require little to no collateral to make a loan.

First Choice, Not Last Resort Alternative lending earned its moniker because it offers an alternative to bank financing. But Dealstruck’s Senturia says alternative lenders are not competing with banks. “There was a huge vacuum between banks that were lending large sums at low interest rates to a small number of businesses and lenders that were offering small loan amounts in exchange for sky-high interest rates and short-term repayment terms,” he explains. “Businesses needed an alternative.” Dealstruck was founded in 2013 to bridge the gap, offering loans to “mid-prime” borrowers with established businesses earning annual revenue of at least $150,000 —companies that need capital to fund growth, not keep the lights on. Senturia says the goal is to help business owners—who borrow an average of $100,000 with an APR between 14 and 20 percent—build their creditworthiness to improve their odds of getting bank financing in the future. “We want to help take people out of high-interest rate loans and help them graduate to bank loans,” he says. After a decade in business, Verespy, the pub owner, knows he stands a good chance of getting bank financing to cover unexpected costs and fund growth. But he continues taking cash advances from Merchant Cash and Capital. In the past decade, Killarney has benefited from eight loans from the alternative lender, including funds to replace a broken cooler, build a patio for outdoor seating and cover operating expenses after Hurricane Irene decimated business in 2011. “Even though we’re an established business, banks still want to put us under a microscope,” Verespy says. “When a cooler breaks, it takes us 48 hours to get funding from Merchant Cash and Capital. We’re not waiting weeks—or months—for a bank to make a decision.” The speed of decision-making might be one of the biggest reasons alternative lenders are thriving. “For sustainability and growth, small businesses need capital,” says Sheinbaum, of Merchant Cash and Capital. “At first, businesses were coming to us out of need; now, it’s out of want. As the economy improves, business owners want to take on more risk to grow their businesses, and there is more capital than ever available to small businesses through alternative lenders.”

The Future of Alternative Lending In the past decade, alternative lenders have financed billions of dollars in small-business loans, and their influence is expected to increase. In a report commissioned by the Markle Foundation, Richard Swart, PhD, an alternativefinance consultant and a researcher at the Haas School of Business at the University of California, Berkeley, identified four projections for the future of alternative finance. 1 The data-driven approach used by alternative lenders to expedite loan approvals will put pressure on banks and credit unions to achieve faster processing times. 2 Alternative lenders will start initial public offerings (IPOs), and the industry will see an uptick in mergers and acquisitions. 3 Loans to small and medium-sized businesses through alternative lending platforms will at least double every year. 4 Increased competition will force alternative lenders to lower their rates (but APRs will remain high compared with interest rates offered by traditional bank and credit unions).

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve



last one

s ta n d i n g w i t h h e r n e w b o o k , m t r a i n, t h e l e g e n da r y s i n g e r - s o n g w r i t e r pat t i s m i t h ta k e s r e a d e r s o n a j o u r n e y t h r o u g h lov e , lo s s a n d a va n i s h i n g n e w yo r k by l auren sandler

60 Arrıve • July/August 2015 •

photography by brad trent

photo credit

photo credit • November/December • July/August 2015

• Arrıve



much as Patti Smith’s new book, M Train, is filled with words, it is filled with images: pictures she’s taken of talismans she’s traveled the world to capture, or gathered from her life in New York. Frida Kahlo’s crutches. Sylvia Plath’s headstone. Her husband’s passport photo. The table and chair she’d claim at her favorite, now-shuttered cafe. It is a collection of memento mori, of dreamlike remembrances of journeys to cemeteries and penal colonies and the hurricane-devastated boardwalk of Rockaway Beach, the end of a favorite crime show, a Haruki Murakami novel accidentally abandoned. “An aria to a coat,” she writes, mourning her long-lost favorite one, “a requiem for a café,” and of course her father, husband, brother and more loves mortally lost. It’s fitting that death becomes this book. After all, requiems have always found their way into her work. Half the songs are lamentations on her breakthrough album Horses, recorded four decades ago this year at Jimi Hendrix’s Electric Ladyland studio, for Wilhelm Reich, Jim Morrison, a girl washed up on a beach, and Hendrix himself. That record, in addition to the later single “Because the Night,” written with Bruce Springsteen, was what she was best known for—until her memoir of her friendship with Robert Mapplethorpe (a work that begins and ends with his death) became a National Book Award-winning best-seller after it was published in 2010. 62 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

Patti Smith in Penn Station, New York City, Aug. 27, 2015.

Just Kids entombed not just Mapplethorpe, but a long-departed New York as well, one where she traveled through the scene like a waifish Zelig, at Max’s Kansas City with Andy Warhol and the Velvet Underground, or at the Chelsea Hotel, where she lived with Mapplethorpe, listening to Kris Kristofferson sing “Me and Bobby McGee” to Janis Joplin for the first time. “I was there for these moments, but so young and preoccupied with my own thoughts that I hardly recognized them as moments,” she writes. Now she is much older and still preoccupied with her own thoughts. Therein lies the genesis of M Train, which she titled because, she says, the book is like a “mental train”; she refers to the chapters as stations. Fittingly, she wrote many parts of it on the Acela, often on the way to visit her sister in Philadelphia. Patti Smith—writing about chasing the ghost of Jean Genet in a French penal colony, accompanied by her husband, Fred Sonic Smith of MC5—right here on these blue and gray seats. Smith started the book three years ago when she turned 65 and began to confront aging for the

64 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

first time. “I’ve never been fettered by age,” she tells me. Yet, in writing M Train, she found herself “trying to look it in the face, to comprehend it, comprehend what this means to be mounting into my seventieth year.” She sees a track that runs through her work, which began as drawing, then poetry, then music, then memoir, often tangling all together. “The last book I wrote, I had so much responsibility because I promised Robert before he died that I’d write it,” she recalls. “This book, no one was waiting for it, no one asked for it. I had infinite freedom. It’s just me, the person I’ve been since I was a little kid,” says Smith, a woman who has known herself unblinkingly from the start. Recently, her daughter found a picture from 1970—Smith was wearing a boatneck shirt and jeans, with a watch cap pulled down over her braids. She looked up from the picture to see her mother dressed the exact same way, down to the braids. “I haven’t really changed much,” Smith says with a chuckle, “but of course not just in the clothes I wear. I can see the whole stream of my existence.”

still, everything changes

as a performer. It made her both a hero and a heroine to many looking for their own toehold in the counterculture. “I don’t give a shit about women,” she said during feminism’s mid-’70s heyday, “or the role of women or ‘The Year of the Woman.’ As far as I’m concerned, being any gender is a drag.” Then she became a self-described “devoted wife and mother,” leaving New York, performing and public life when she married Fred Sonic Smith and moved to a Detroit suburb to raise their two children. “The person I was when I left public life was the same person I was then and am now,” she says. “I had to maybe comb my hair if I went to a teachers meeting, but I was just myself.” She’d always thought of herself as Jo in Little Women, and like Jo she wanted to raise a family. Many found that to be a betrayal. “It wasn’t easy to be a young feminist and a fan of Smith during the years she took off to be with her husband and family in Michigan. Many of us judged her, didn’t understand why she left the game. But then she returned with work that was as profound as anything she’d done before, and wiser,” says Ann Powers, NPR’s music critic. And

mith’s style often has defined her beyond her work. Many people who have never heard one of her songs besides her lone hit could describe how she looks on the cover of Horses, the black bangs and white shirt, the jacket tossed over a shoulder as Sinatra by way of Rimbaud (shot by Mapplethorpe, of course). The New York Times Magazine wrote at the time, “At the moment, Patti’s music—a unique combination of fairy tales, gleeful excitement, melodic singing, spitting, unshed tears of childhood, hypnotic reiteration, teasing, dancing, masturbatory fantasies, sheetmetal school days and chunks of real ’50s and ’60s hard-rock songs—appeals to these namable groups: the New York SoHo hip, weird kids in remote towns, socialites … .” Michael Stipe has said, “The Velvet Underground didn’t sell that many records, but everyone who bought one started a band, and that’s times 100 for Patti.” The R.E.M. frontman says he decided to become a musician when he first heard Horses. However, it was Smith’s iconography that traveled further than the music. She’s long worn the stubborn moniker “the godmother of punk,” though she spent her early years defying gender

much like she was able to make genderless rock in spite of her girlish voice, she has now taken the memoir and located her story in a place as beyond category as Horses was. “I’m a female. I give birth. I was a wife. I tended to a lot of the domestic needs of our daily life,” Smith tells me. “But I don’t live in gender as an artist. I don’t feel fettered by gender. It’s not a schism.” Smith adds that she never intended to write about her marriage; her late husband was a profoundly private man. Yet, stories of their life together during the 16 years before he died and she returned to New York began threading their way through M Train. Still, most of the book is a

S top: Robert

Mapplethorpe’s iconic album cover photo of Smith for Horses in 1975. opposite:

Mapplethorpe and Smith, New York, 1969. right:

Passport photos of Fred Sonic Smith and Patti Smith.

left: norman seeff; courtesy of patti smith

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


clockwise from top left:

Scenes from M Train: Tolstoy’s bear, Moscow; Frida Kahlo’s bed; Wind-Up Bird, Café ‘Ino; Café ‘Ino table and chair. opposite:

Smith and William S. Burroughs in 1995.

66 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

photo credit

“Everything changes,” she writes. “Boy grown, father dead, daughter taller than me, weeping from a bad dream. Please stay forever, I say to the things I know. Don’t go.” story of solitude, of a person reading alone, traveling alone, drinking coffee alone. “I became in the position to sit on the stoop by myself, not like my mom and dad laughing about getting old,” she says. “I didn’t get a chance to age with my best friend or my brother or my husband.” (Her brother, Todd, died in 1994.) Smith is very much the last one standing, not just as a 68-year-old who will go on the road and play 45 shows in one summer, but as a final survivor in a life marked by steady loss, by a deeply felt ephemerality. “Everything changes,” she writes. “Boy grown, father dead, daughter taller than me, weeping from a bad dream. Please stay forever, I say to the things I know. Don’t go.”


faithful to herself

hose things she’s known are not just people, but places. The Chelsea landmarks she roams in search of, “pawnshops, diners, flophouses gone,” not to mention her 23rd Street loft, CBGB, Max’s Kansas City. It’s not just ghosts of scenes past that

opposite: courtesy of patti smith (4); above: Allen Ginsberg/CORBIS

vanish, but even present-day New York is slipping away from her, and all of us. The cafe she frequents in the West Village, where she sits at the corner table she staunchly guards, drinking black coffee, nibbling brown toast with olive oil, and composing thoughts for this book, is shuttered by the end. (Her table and chair were delivered to her house nearby.) She decamps to Caffe Dante—and by the time the book is published, that venerable spot has closed as well. “One has to simultaneously accept and mourn the changes. But if a cafe can be there for 100 years it should be a landmark, it shouldn’t be allowed to just close, to just lose its lease,” she says. “New York is moving too fast. Because of greed and these shifts in the economy, we’re losing so many of our landmarks.” She follows the coffee to the Rockaways—her beloved barista is opening a cafe there—and falls for another part of her city, signing the deed to a ramshackle beach bungalow with vaulted ceilings and a rusted sink that she names “The Alamo.” Here, too, formidable forces demolish what she holds dear. “I fell in love with the boardwalk, and I didn’t expect to be lamenting it by the end of the book,” because of the destruction of Hurricane Sandy, she says. In this case, the boardwalk came back,

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


“I’ve tried to write every day most of my life. Even if it’s just a sentence. It’s like a mantra. That’s what I was good at. I’m not a good housekeeper. I’m not a good baker. I’m not that much fun at dinner parties.”

and her little, solitary home rose again. After three months on the road this summer, playing 45 concerts under the lights during a European heat wave, Smith came right to the beach to hack away the weeds in her unkempt front yard and sit on her porch. And write. “I’ve tried to write every day most of my life. Even if it’s just a sentence,” she says. “It’s like a mantra.” She continues, “That’s what I was good at. I’m not a good housekeeper. I’m not a good baker. I’m not that much fun at dinner parties. I don’t know how to drive. I don’t know how to swim. This is what I do.” Smith does some other things, too. She began her New York life as a visual artist and continues to exhibit. And, of course, there’s the music. It all bends together: pen and camera, poetry and prose, subject and object, physical and metaphysical. Her dearly departed friend William S. Burroughs described her as a “shaman,” saying she was “in touch with other levels of reality;” hers is a prism rather than a plane. “I drew no line between life and art,” she writes of her Chelsea days in Just Kids, and 40-odd years later, her days wandering graveyards, writing on trains, spitting on the stage at Electric Ladyland between verses, the song remains the same. Now when she performs “Elegie,” she has a much longer list of names to chant in mourning—the Ramones, Jim Carroll, Lou Reed, and of course her husband, her brother and Mapplethorpe, her best friend. “I add new names every night,” she says. “There are too many.” But not hers. In M Train, as she tells of a pilgrimage to Japan to visit and photograph the graves of a few beloved writers, she notes that Setsuko Hara, an actress who worked with Kurosawa and Ozu, is still alive into her 90s. Another last one standing. “May she live to be one-hundred,” she writes. “Faithful to herself.”

68 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •


seminal moments in the life of patti smith 1967 Buys a one-way bus ticket to New York

1969 Takes up residence in the Chelsea Hotel

1975 Records Horses, considered by Rolling Stone to be one of the top 50 rock albums of all time

1980 Marries Fred Sonic Smith; moves to a Detroit suburb

2007 Inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame

2010 Wins National Book Award for Just Kids

Check out for a list of Patti Smith’s most beloved books, as noted in M Train.

t s a he ’s

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right: The lobby of

New York Edition

70 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

courtesy of new york edition

photo credit

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


b o u t iq u e

The Press Hotel Portland, maine

The Setting Portland’s hippest hotel opened in May in the former offices and printing plant of the Portland Press Herald newspaper. The Perks The hotel’s 110 guest rooms and clever newspaper references are inspired by a 1920s writers’ office. The location, between Portland’s historic Old Port and Arts District neighborhoods, is prime. The Scene Cocktails, microbrews and small plates are served at the Inkwell Bar, the former city room of the Press Herald, where tables are now emblazoned with the newspaper’s old headlines. Something Extra The hotel has a separate art gallery composed entirely of work by Maine artists. Rooms from $299;

bout i que

The Lodge on the Cove Kennebunkport, maine

The Setting The updated retro motor lodge is nestled in the woods overlooking a tidal cove, about a 15-minute walk from downtown. The Perks The 30 rooms blend vintage and contemporary furnishings in a rustic setting by the same owners as the nearby luxury resort Hidden Pond. The Scene The atmosphere is hip but casual, and especially fun for families, with an outdoor heated pool, pingpong, evening bonfires and movie nights. The poolside Dory bar and restaurant serves rum punch–and milkshakes. Something Extra Free bike rentals and use of kayaks are among the amenities, as are poolside ice cream socials. Rooms from $229;

72 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

from top: Irvin Serrano; courtesy of Kennebunkport Resort Collection

cl as s i c

The Ivy Baltimore

After a historic renovation, this 19th-century mansion in Baltimore’s Mount Vernon neighborhood has been reborn as a romantic 18-room hotel. The Perks The Ivy is like staying in a private home with 23 fireplaces, a conservatory, a tea room and a library. The Scene Breakfast is served in the mansion’s former library, almost entirely original. There is also a small spa and a restaurant, Magdalena. Something Extra Cocktails, afternoon tea and in-town transportation in The Ivy’s antique black London taxicab are included. Rooms from $475; The Setting

c l as s ic

The Godfrey Hotel Boston

The Setting The hotel is slated to open in November, following the 2014 debut of owner Oxford Capital LLC’s awardwinning Godfrey Hotel in Chicago. The 242-room property will be a cornerstone of the city’s revitalization of Downtown Crossing. The Perks The Godfrey is a sparkling new hotel that juxtaposes modern interiors against a historic facade. The Scene The hotel’s ground level restaurant is a glitzy spot for happy hour. Something Extra The hotel partnered with local coffee roaster George Howell Coffee for its new ground-floor coffee cafe. Rooms from $250;

from top: courtesy of the ivy; the godfrey hotel

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


b o u t iq u e

Verb Hotel Boston

The Setting A 1950s modernist motor hotel in the shadow of Fenway Park is refurbished to its former glory, architecturally restored with stylish interiors designed to impress. The Perks The Verb is a trendy addition to Boston, with interiors inspired by the 1960s rock culture that influenced the neighborhood. Lobby walls feature a gallery of rock memorabilia and a vintage turntable and vinyl collection. The Scene The high-energy Japanese tavern is by the James Beard awardwinning duo Tim Cushman and Nancy Cushman. Something Extra There is a lively outdoor pool in the courtyard. Rates from $259;

cl as s i c

Hotel Commonwealth Boston

The Setting One of Boston’s best hotels is polished up after a $50 million renovation including the lobby, all 149 guest rooms and an expansion that will add 96 rooms. The Perks The renovated rooms are done in soothing tones, and the new addition will include an outdoor terrace looking out at Fenway Park. The Scene The hotel’s Eastern Standard restaurant is a bustling favorite in Kenmore Square. The hotel also houses the 25-seat Island Creek Oyster Bar. Something Extra Virtual in-room concierge is a new amenity that can be used for everything from booking restaurant reservations to requesting room service. Rates from $399;

bout i que

Archer New York New York city

The setting The 22-story garment district hotel takes its design cue from the neighborhood: Interiors of exposed brick and steel are accented by colorful original art and custom furnishings. The Perks Service is the hotel’s hallmark; nightly turndown includes rotating treats like Fatty Sundays chocolate-covered pretzels or Baked by Melissa cupcakes. The Scene David Burke’s Fabrick restaurant is known for dishes like the candied bacon, which is presented hanging from a clothespin. Something Extra Class Act cards are handed out to guests who demonstrate an act of kindness, worth $10 to be used in the hotel. Rooms from $269;

c l as s ic

The Knickerbocker New York City

The setting A grande dame, originally opened in 1906 by John Jacob Astor IV but closed in 1921 after the onset of Prohibition, is reborn with the opening of the Knickerbocker. Times Square at long last has a top-notch luxury hotel. The Perks Rooms are posh enough to match the grandeur of the beaux-arts facade, and spacious by Manhattan standards (the smallest are 350 square feet). The Scene Chef Charlie Palmer oversees the hotel’s culinary program, and the rooftop cocktail den St. Cloud is happening. Something Extra Complimentary bath amenities are designed exclusively for the hotel by celebrity hairstylist Ted Gibson, who is also available for on-site appointments. Rooms from $595;

clockwise from top left: Adrian Wilson; courtesy of archer new york; the knickerbocker; Hotel Commonwealth

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


b o u ti q ue

The Broome New york city

The Setting The intimate hotel, housed in a five-story federalist revival brownstone, would fit as well in the heart of Paris as it does on one of SoHo’s loveliest streets. The Perks With just 14 rooms, The Broome is a tranquil hideaway. Some rooms look out over the open-air atrium; the penthouse has a terrace and a balcony. The Scene The courtyard, wreathed in ivy, is a lovely private space for hotel guests. Something Extra The locally sourced continental breakfast includes house-baked croissants and granola from Oro Bakery on Broome Street.Rooms from $395;

a f f o r da b l e

The Paul new york city

The setting The 21-story tower in Manhattan’s revitalized NoMad neighborhood opened in February. The Perks Finding a hotel that is stylish and affordable is hard in Manhattan, but The Paul fits the bill. The best-priced rooms are small and have polished metal bunk beds, but a few larger rooms have private terraces. The Scene The rooftop bar has unobstructed views of the Empire State Building. Something Extra Complimentary continental breakfast is served in the den, which also has board games. Rooms from $200;

cl as s i c

New York Edition new york city

The setting Hotelier

Ian Schrager’s Edition hotel, a collaboration with Marriott International, opened in May in a landmark clock tower building dating to 1909. The Perks Everything about the hotel is over-the-top luxe. Each of the 273 guest rooms has a residential feel, opening into an oak-paneled foyer, and most have magnificent views. The Scene London’s star chef Jason Atherton oversees The Clocktower restaurant, which has an old social club vibe, with a billiards room and a library serving cocktails and dessert. Nearly 500 photographs of American icons adorn the walls. Something Extra There’s a 30-footlong steel fireplace in the lobby bar, which overlooks Madison Square Park. Rates from $725;

clockwise from left: preston schlebusch; courtesy of the paul; new york edition

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


a f f o r da b l e

Hotel Dylan Woodstock, N.Y.

The Setting The refurbished roadside motel has 11 rooms meticulously designed by the New York City-based husband-and-wife team Robert and Cortney Novogratz. The Perks The hotel has a fun, bohemian vibe that suits its location just outside of Woodstock. Each room has a music print, a record player and vinyl. The Scene The central lawn is a gathering place for bocce ball or a seat in one of the Adirondack chairs by the two fire pits. Something Extra S’mores kits and campfire Jiffy Pop are available. Rooms from $189;

bout i que

Roost Apartment Hotel Philadelphia

The setting Roost’s 27 fully equipped residences are available in studios or one- and two-bedrooms and are situated in the city center (with a second location planned for Rittenhouse Square). The Perks Each modern apartment feels like your very own pied-à-terre, featuring vaulted ceilings, hardwood floors, fireplaces, and washer and dryers, but with hotel-like amenities. The Scene Roost is about relishing your own space, but the hotel does have a 24-hour front desk and concierge, weekly housekeeping and a rooftop fitness center. Something Extra Every room comes with whole coffee beans from La Colombe, one of Philadelphia’s favorite roasters, along with a Chemex coffee maker and a grinder. Rooms from $155 a night (monthly basis) or $225 a night (weekly);

78 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

clockwise from top left: Matthew Williams; courtesy of gilded; the break; Matthew Williams

a f f o r da b l e

Gilded Newport, R.I.

The Setting The 17-room hotel pays homage to Newport’s decadent Gilded Age, but with a modern take (ornate gold mirrors, turquoise sofas and bold wallpaper). The Perks Gilded is a refreshing, whimsical change of pace from Newport’s traditional B&Bs. The Scene Gilded’s riff on Newport’s golden age includes a billiards room with a black velvet and white lacquer pool table, as well as a croquet practice green in the courtyard. Something Extra Morning breakfast tapas include dishes like open-faced egg sandwiches, cheddar scones and coconut oatmeal. Rooms from $149;

bout i que

The Break Narragansett, R.I.

The Setting With its surfer chic vibe, The Break is a funky addition to the tony seaside town of Narragansett. The newly built hotel opened in June in a prime location just one block from the ocean. The Perks The 16 rooms are each outfitted with fireplaces, rainfall showerheads and colorful interiors by Rhode Island designer Jocelyn Chiappone; most have outdoor balconies, too. The Scene There is a heated outdoor pool, a sundeck and a beach shack-inspired restaurant, Chair 5. Something Extra The best view of the ocean and Point Judith lighthouse is from the rooftop lounge. Rooms from $259;

af f or dabl e

506 On The River Inn Vermont

The Setting A sprawling, newly built hotel on 6 acres, just minutes from the charming village of Woodstock. The Perks The “farmhouse chic” inn is the first major new hotel to open in the Woodstock area in at least a decade. All 28 rooms face the Ottauquechee River, most with private balconies. The Scene The family-friendly property has a game room featuring vintage arcade games, a toddler play room and an indoor pool. Something Extra The country breakfast includes dishes like french toast and maple syrup from a local farm. Rooms from $179;

b o u t iq u e

Quirk Hotel Richmond, Va.

Husband-and-wife team Ted and Katie Ukrop opened their art-centric hotel in an Italian Renaissance building and former department store built in 1916. The Perks Quirk is Richmond’s first design-driven hotel; the 75 guest rooms have original wood floors and walnut bed frames made from the building’s 100-year-old wood beams. The Scene The hotel boasts a restaurant and a rooftop bar, which will serve lighter fare. Something Extra The 10-year-old Quirk Gallery will be relocated to an adjacent building, easily accessible to hotel guests. Rooms from $300; The Setting

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from top: courtesy of 506 on the river inn; quirk hotel

cl as s i c

The Watergate Hotel Washington, D.C.

The Setting One of Washington, D.C.’s most iconic hotels, which debuted in 1965, reopened in September after a $125 million renovation. The Perks The elegant redesign plays up the hotel’s midcentury heritage. Almost all of the 300-plus guest rooms have views of the Potomac River, and about half have balconies. The Scene The ground-level whiskey bar and the rooftop bar with fire pit and Washington Monument views are sure to become D.C.’s next power spots. Something Extra The hotel has an indoor swimming pool, a whirlpool and yoga studios. Rooms from $400.

b o u t iq u e

The Graham Georgetown Washington, D.C.

The Setting The Graham named for former D.C. resident Alexander Graham Bell is housed in a historic federalist building, steps from Georgetown’s boutiques and cafes. The Perks The 57 guest rooms feature neutral color palettes, accented with pops of color, but it’s the location that is hard to beat. The Scene The Observatory rooftop bar is a place to see and be seen, and the downstairs cocktail cellar, The Alex, recently opened. Something Extra Hotel guests get priority access to the rooftop when there’s a line. Rooms from $259;

from top: courtesy of the watergate hotel; the graham georgetown

• November/December 2015 • Arrıve


a t s Re

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.C. D o t oston B m o ds fr o ter o s h o r f o b vid a neigh d d y o b o s pf n map o The to s n h By

Liz Jo

you love food as much as we do, you seek it out wherever you travel. So if you find out about an entire neighborhood known for its food? That’s worth a special detour. With that in mind, for our annual Best of the Northeast issue, we sought the neighborhoods where you can’t go wrong in the food department. You walk down the street and stumble upon a great meal. You make food an experience rather than sustenance. In our four picks for the Best Food Neighborhoods—14th Street in Washington, D.C., Fishtown in Philadelphia, Flushing in New York and the South End in Boston—you’ll find barbecue and beer, craft cocktails and farm-to-table, soup dumplings and soul food. You could make a day of exploring the food scene—or a night, if you’re so inclined. They all inspire a grub-graze, a tasting tour, a gastronomic getaway. A couple of these neighborhoods—14th Street in D.C. and Fishtown in Philadelphia—also have a cool-factor about them; hipsters and young professionals thrive there. But in Boston, the South End is more established; restaurants and markets have had time to grow up with the neighbors. And Flushing, in Queens, is a force unto its own: a melting pot of cuisines jostling for your attention on busy streets that feel so foreign, you’d hardly know you were in New York. Here’s a look at our four best food neighborhoods in the Northeast. Plan your visits with an empty stomach! right: A food stand at the Golden Shopping Mall in Flushing.

82 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

preston schlebusch

Fishtown 411 1 Barcade, 1114 Frankford Ave., 215634-4400; 2 Coffee House Too, 2514 E. York St., 267-324-5888; 3 Emerald Street Urban Farm Project,

2312 Emerald St., 609-848-4972, 4 Fette Sau,1208 Frankford Ave., 215-391-4888, 5 Frankford Hall, 1210 Frankford Ave., 215-634-3338, 6 Greensgrow Farm, 2501 E. Cumberland St., 215-427-2702, 7 Johnny Brenda’s, 1201 Frankford Ave., 215-739-9684, 8 Kraftwork, 541 E. Girard Ave., 215-739-1700, 9 Little Baby’s, 2311 Frankford Ave., 267-687-8567, 10 Loco Pez, 2401 E. Norris St., 267-886-8061, 11

Charcuterie at Kraftwork; the interior at Barcade; Mint Julep ice cream at Little Baby’s.

Clockwise from top left:

Milkcrate Cafe, 400 E. Girard Ave.,

267-909-8348, 12 Pizzeria Beddia , 115 E. Girard Ave. No phone, 13 ReAnimator Coffee, 1523 E. Susquehanna Ave., 215-425-5805,

Huntingdon Station / MFL

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84 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

E arlier this year , Bon Appetit magazine declared the pizza at Pizzeria Beddia to be the best in America. The pizzeria, a small shop with white subway tiles and a butcher-block counter, is in Fishtown, our pick for the best culinary neighborhood in Philadelphia. Coincidence? We think not. Where else could you find a beer garden (Frankford Hall), a barbecue joint from Brooklyn (Fette Sau) and a Mexican gastropub (really! It’s called Loco Pez), all within walking distance? Throw in the genius combination of craft beer and retro arcade games at Barcade, sophisticated farm-to-table cuisine at Kraftwork and the super food at the landmark hangout and music venue Johnny Brenda’s, and you have found one of the great food destinations on the East Coast. Fishtown also has its share of great coffee (Coffee House Too, Milkcrate Cafe, ReAnimator Coffee), ice cream (Little Baby’s), and even urban farms (Emerald Street Urban Farm Project, Greensgrow Farms). Makes you wonder if the neighborhood needed Bon Appetit to knight Beddia at all. And after the publicity, you will be elbowing your way in to get to order one of just 40 pies that owner Joe Beddia makes each day. Beddia, who sharpened his own style by earning a pizza PhD with the masters Chris Bianco of Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix and Dom DeMarco of Di Fara in Brooklyn, makes a simple, classic pie that is, not surprisingly, cooked in a wood-fired oven. To understand its brilliance, you’ll have to taste it yourself. If you can get one. clockwise from top left: danya henninger; courtesy of barcade; little baby’s

8 - White Bear, 135-02 Roosevelt Ave. 718-961-2322

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exterior; Orange juice, savory croissant and dessert pastry at the Paris Baguette; Rambutan fruit at a market in the Golden Shopping Mall

preston schlebusch (3)

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Queens Botanical Garden

Flushing 411 1 Corner 28, 137-28 40th Road, 718-886-6628, 2 Ganesh Temple Canteen, 45-57 Bowne St., 718-460-8493 3 Golden Shopping Mall, 41-28 Main St.: the food court has Lanzhou Handmade Noodles (no phone), Tianjin Dumpling House (212-518-3265), Xi’an Famous Foods ( 4

Han Joo Chik Naeng Myun, 41-06

149th Place, 718-359-6888 5 Kabul Kabab House, 42-51 Main St., 718-461-1919, 6

Nan Xiang Xiao Long Bao, 38-12

Prince St. 718-321-3838 7 Paris Baguette, 136-17 39th Ave., 718-713-0404, 8

Clockwise from top left: Ganesh Temple Canteen

Murray Hill / LIRR



Chinese soup dumplings , Korean barbecue, Indian dosas—if you’re looking for the best food from Asia and the Indian subcontinent, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better place to sample it all than in Flushing, Queens, our pick for the best food neighborhood in New York City. For the food court of your dreams, put the Golden Shopping Mall on the itinerary. It houses the original location of Xi’an Famous Foods (order Liang Pi, known as “Cold Skin” Noodles, and slurp up some fresh, spicy, garlicky, squeaky, crunchy goodness), Tianjin Dumpling House (the lamb-with-squash dumplings are the best) and Lanzhou Handmade Noodles (get the chilled noodles). There are all kinds of little discoveries to make throughout the neighborhood. The canteen in the basement of the Ganesh Temple serves some of the best South Indian food in New York (get the butter dosa and a mango lassi). Corner 28, a to-go window near the LIRR station, makes a luscious, steamy, sweet soft bun filled with duck and topped with hoisin sauce and scallions and sells it for just $1. If you’re making a pilgrimage for soup dumplings, and you should, don’t miss Nan Xiang Xiao Long Bao, where the dough, with its tiny pleats, is so impossibly delicate it belies the burst of umami inside. If you’ve saved room, head next to White Bear, not too far away, to taste the wontons in chili oil and pork dumplings. The diversity of dishes in Flushing helped it earn a spot on our list. For Korean barbecue, Han Joo Chik Naeng Myun is one of the tops (pork belly, please) and for kebabs, the Kabul Kabab House is your spot. And may we suggest ending your tour with a stop at Paris Baguette. Just try to choose from among the canele, almond rum pastry, pumpkin sesame loaf or coffee-Danish.


White Bear, 135-02 Roosevelt Ave.


urch Key, 1337 14th St. NW, 202-567-2576, adio, 1520 14th St. NW, 202-319-1404, o, 1541 14th St. NW, 202-232-0920, hibellina, 1610 14th St. NW, 202-803-2389, e Gibson, 2009 14th St. NW, 202-232-2156,, eat Wall Szechuan House, 1527 14th St. NW, 797-8888, libela, 1415 14th St. NW, 202-265-5700, no site Diplomate, 1601 14th St. NW, 202-332-3333, earl Dive Oyster Palace, 1612 14th St. NW, 319-1612, he Pig, 1320 14th St. NW, 202-290-2821, ed Derby, 3718 14th St. NW, 202-291-5000, ce, 1608 14th St. NW, 202-234-2400, ricerestaucom pstream, 1333 14th St. NW, 202-450-2216, eak Wood, 1323 14th St. NW, 202-290-1856, co, 1926 14th St. NW, 202-319-1400,

17 V St NW

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14th Street/ Logan Circle 411

1 2 Birds 1 Stone, 1800 14th St. NW, no phone,

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5 Birch & Barley, 1337 14th St. NW, 202-567-2576,

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14th Street/Logan Circle, Washington, D.C.


20 N St NW

6 Black Jack, 1612 14th St. NW, 202-319-1612, 7 ChurchKey, 1337 14th St. NW, 202-567-2576, 8 Estadio, 1520 14th St. NW, 202-319-1404, 9 Etto, 1541 14th St. NW, 202-232-0920, 10 Ghibellina , 1610 14th St. NW, 202-803-2389, 11 The Gibson, 2009 14th St. NW, 202-232-2156, 12

Great Wall Szechuan House,

1527 14th St. NW, 202-797-8888, 13 Lalibela , 1415 14th St. NW, 202-265-5700 14 Le Diplomate, 1601 14th St. NW, 202-332-3333, 15 Pearl Dive Oyster Palace, 1612 14th St. NW, 202-319-1612, 16 The Pig, 1320 14th St. NW, 202-290-2821, 17 Red Derby, 3718 14th St. NW, 202-291-5000, 18 Rice, 1608 14th St. NW, 202-234-2400, 19 Slipstream, 1333 14th St. NW, 202-450-2216, 20 Teak Wood, 1323 14th St. NW, 202-290-1856, 21 Tico, 1926 14th St. NW, 202-319-1400,

What a transformation! Ten years ago, one of the only upscale restaurants on 14th Street was Rice, a modern Thai establishment. But over the past decade, while its kitchen has been quietly turning out tasty curries and grilled Chiang Mai sausages with fresh herbs, the neighborhood has grown up around it. As you head north from Thomas Circle at N Street, restaurants spill out one after another along 14th Street, starting with The Pig (yes, as you would expect, lots of pork belly and bacon), B Too (Belgian moules and frites), Teak Wood (Thai), Slipstream (a coffee AND cocktail bar), and Birch & Barley and ChurchKey (two sisters, Birch & Barley with farm-to-table cuisine and 555 carefully selected artisan beers, ChurchKey with small plates and craft beers, fewer of them). Other neighborhood standouts include two tapas restaurants, Barcelona 14th Street and Estadio (one of our picks for best of the Northeast in 2012); Le Diplomate, Stephen Starr’s mirror on Paris; Pearl Dive Oyster Palace, a bistro-y raw bar; Etto, fantastic pizza; Ghibellina, Italian small plates; and Tico, Michael Schlow’s mix of New American and Nuevo Latino. Phew! Bars are well represented, of course. The craft cocktail scene is alive at Black Jack (above Pearl Dive), 2 Birds 1 Stone (a speakeasy) and The Gibson (another speakeasy). Red Derby has a rooftop bar; All Souls has a patio. from top: French onion soup at Le Diplomate; crispy pork shank at The Pig; grilled octopus at Estadio.

86 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •

You’d be forgiven for thinking the neighborhood is all hipster-central, but there’s also a very good Ethiopian restaurant (Lalibela) and an outstanding, tongue-tingling, hole-in-the-wall Chinese joint, Great Wall Szechuan House. And to us, that helps define a true food destination: good food, upscale setting or not.

A few of our best neighborhoods seem to pop up overnight, but the South End became popular after a slow burn. When Tremont 647 opened in 1996, serving its boldly flavored, globally inspired American food, chef-owner Andy Husbands was somewhat of a pioneer. Since then, more of Boston’s best-known chefs (like Barbara Lynch, Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette) have moved in and turned the neighborhood into something of a fun park for food lovers. You’ll find a variety of cuisines, upscale trends and just plain good eats. Tremont Street is the spine of the neighborhood. On this street, Lynch owns B&G Oysters (a gleaming raw bar) and The Butcher Shop, where you can order charcuterie and small plates and then take home a side of beef. Other restaurants include Addis Red Sea Restaurant (Ethiopian), Kitchen (New American), Aquitaine Bistro (French), House of Siam (Thai) and Mela (Indian). At the north end, find Blackbird Doughnuts (a great bakery and coffee shop) and Wink & Nod (a cocktail bar). Also nearby are Coppa and Toro, two sensational restaurants by Oringer and Bissonnette. Coppa has wood-fired pizza and cool Italian cocktails; Toro does tapas. At Myers + Chang, you’ll find modern Asian, which equals Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai and Taiwanese food, but made with local ingredients and lots of innovation.

South End 411 1 Addis Red Sea Restaurant, 544 Tremont St., 617-426-8727, 2 Aquitaine Bistro, 569 Tremont St., 617-424-8577, 3 B&G Oysters, 550 Tremont St., 617-423-0550, 4 Barcelona Wine Bar, 525 Tremont St., 617-266-2600, 5

Blackbird Doughnuts, 492

Tremont St., 617-482-9000,

Gaslight serves French bistro food to hipsters, and The Gallows does poutine proud. Brighten your day with the Caribbean food at Orinoco; take back the night with Barcelona Wine Bar. For cheap (and good) eats, try the pizza and ice cream at Picco. A bookshop with space for cooking classes (Stir), a food-focused gift shop (Olives & Grace) and a cheese shop (Formaggio Kitchen) round out the culinary theme. Sure, some of these are newcomers, but the South End has staying power, and that’s why it is our pick for the best food neighborhood in Boston.  from top: Croque Magret, duck confit and Gruyère pressed sandwich at Aquitaine; chocolate beignets at Gaslight; Paella Valenciana at Toro.

6 The Butcher Shop, 552 Tremont St., 617-423-4800, 7 Coppa , 253 Shawmut Ave., 617-391-0902, 8 Formaggio Kitchen, 268 Shawmut Ave., 617-350-6996, 9 The Gallows, 1395 Washington St., 617-425-0200, 10 Gaslight Brasserie, 560 Harrison Ave., 617-422-0224, 11 House of Siam, 592 Tremont St., 617-267-7426, 12 Kitchen, 560 Tremont St., 617-695-1250, 13 Mela , 578 Tremont St., 617-859-4805, 14 Myers + Chang, 1145 Washington St., 617-542-5200,

15 Olives & Grace, 623 Tremont St., South End 411 617-236-4536, 1-Addis Red Restaurant, 544 Tremont St., 617-426-8

2-Aquitaine Bistro, 569 Tremont St., 617-424-8577, aq 16 Orinoco, 477 Shawmut Ave., 3-B&G Oysters, 550 Tremont St., 617-423-0550, ba 617-369-7075, 4-Barcelona Wine Bar, 525 Tremont St., 617-266-2600, b Boston Back Bay

South End, Boston


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5-Blackbird 17 Picco,Doughnuts, 513 Tremont492 St.,Tremont St., 617-482-9000, b 6-The Butcher Shop, 552 Tremont St., 617-423-4800, theb 617-927-0066, 7-Coppa, 253 Shawmut Ave., 617-391-0902, cop 8-Formaggio Kitchen, 268 Shawmut Ave., 617-350-6996, 18 Toro, 1704 Washington St., 6179-The Gallows, 1395 Washington St., 617-425-0200, th 536-4300, 10-Gaslight Brasserie, 560 Harrison Ave., 617-422-022 of Siam, 592Tremont Tremont St., 617-267-7426, hou 1911-House Tremont 647, 647 St., 12-Kitchen, 560 Tremont St., 617-695-1250, kitchen 617-266-4555, 13-Mela, 578 Tremont St., 617-859-4805, mela 14-Myers + Chang, 1145 20 Stir, 102 Waltham St.,Washington St., 617-542-5200, 15-Olives & Grace, 623 Tremont St., 617-236-4536, o 617-423-7847, 16-Orinoco, 477 Shawmut Ave., 617-369-7075, orin Tremont 21 Wink17-Picco, & Nod, 3513 Appleton St.,St., 617-927-0066, piccor 18-Toro, Washington St., 617-536-4300, toro-res 617-482-0117, 19-Tremont 647, 647 Tremont St., 617-266-4555, t 20-Stir, 102 Waltham St., 617-423-7847, stirb 21-Wink & Nod, 3 Appleton St., 617-482-0117, win


November 21, 2015 – January 3, 2016

The Washington, D.C. Region’s Must-See Holiday Attraction Returns! • 2 million pounds of colorful ice sculptures and two-story ice slides • Scenes from this holiday classic come to life in this walk-through winter attraction • The Frostbite Factory—a live ice carving zone



Located in National Harbor, MD – Conveniently located minutes from Washington, D.C. and across the river from Old Town Alexandria. *Subject to 10% entertainment tax and transaction fee per ticket. **Per room plus tax, resort fee



and parking. Package pricing, components, show schedules and entertainment subject to change without notice. See website for restrictions. © Classic Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. Pepsi and Pepsi Globe are registered trademarks of PepsiCo, Inc.



Light up your holiday season in Norfolk during our six-week celebration of food, fun and classic yuletide traditions. Discover outdoor ice skating, holiday light displays and journey through a magical world of Christmas with Victorian carolers, merchants, musical performances and more at Dickens’ Christmas Towne. Festivities begin with the Grand Illumination Parade on Saturday, November 21, 2015 and continue through the end of the year. Make your reservation now to enjoy all of the holiday festivities in Norfolk!

1-800-368-3097 |

CITYGUIDE what’s happening in town

Holidays in Bloom Washington, D.C., page 100

courtesy of United states botanic garden

Baltimore 90 Boston 92 New York City 94 Philadelphia 96 Providence 98 Washington, D.C. 100 Wilmington 102


by Stephanie Citron

Baltimore Pearls of Wisdom

An exhibition at the Walters Art Museum highlights the forces that influenced Islamic art An 18th-century diamond-encrusted rifle with priceless treasures hidden inside

its secret chamber. A rare 16th-century edition of the Shahnameh (Persian Book of Kings), whose illustrations are curiously enhanced with Europeaninfluenced painting techniques. These rare artifacts are among those included in “Pearls on a String: Art in the Age of Great Islamic Empires,” an exhibition at the Walters Art Museum showcasing three significant, albeit little-known, influencers of Islamic art. The exhibition explores the multiplicity of cultures within the Islamic world, highlighting three artists who lived between the 16th and 18th centuries. A writer composed the history of Akbar, the eminent Mughal Indian ruler; a Persian painter enhanced illustrations of two coveted literary historiographies; a Turkish Sultan was a music composer and arts patron. “[The exhibition] focuses on how these specific individuals innovated something that has resonance today, through their own individual genius and collaborations with people around them,” says Amy Landau, associate curator of Islamic and South Asian art. The collection features about 120 objects created or inspired by the protagonists, including historic texts, vibrant textiles, hand-painted book-art illustrations, sculptures and jeweled artifacts. About a third of the pieces on display come from the museum’s large collection of Islamic art, with others on loan from institutions like the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Nov. 8–Jan. 31. 410-547-9000; Young Woman in a Georgian Costume. Probably Isfahan, late 17th century. Oil on canvas

Gobrecht silver dollars are among the coins on display at the Whitman Coin and Collectibles Winter Expo.

Flipping Coins


are Gobrecht silver dollars, newly minted money and early American copper coins are among the massive collections of priceless coins, currencies and metals on display at Whitman Coin and Collectibles Winter Expo. An important event for serious currency collectors and traders, the expo at the Baltimore Convention Center Nov. 5–8 also provides numismatic neophytes an opportunity to score collectibles for $10 or less. “If you’ve always wondered whether those coins you found in the attic are truly valuable, the Whitman Baltimore Expo is the place to find out,” says Lori Kraft, Whitman’s general manager. “Bring them … and get a variety of expert opinions about their value.” Plus: Attending won’t cost you a dime.

For additional event, attraction, restaurant and hotel information, visit

save the date JONESTOWN








The Jewish Museum of Maryland is the first stop on this Rock and Roll Hall of Fame tour, which features artifacts of Simon’s 50-year career, including guitars, performance videos and costumes. 410-732-6400;

Baltimore’s holiday ice rink in McKeldin Square dazzles in its second year. Enjoy skating, lessons and broomball. 443-278-4700;

Inspired by America’s football obsession, this play examines the conflicted ethics about the dangers of the game, based upon interviews with players, their families, and fans. 410332-0033;

This now-famous neighborhood block is aglow with light displays beyond the typical twinkle, showcasing icons of Baltimore like crabs, Natty Boh, the Utz girl, Ravens and Orioles.

Through Jan. 18

Mid-November to February

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Nov. 13–Dec. 20

Nov. 28–Jan. 1



The crowd counts down, music begins and fireworks ignite as the Washington Monument is illuminated, ushering in Baltimore’s holiday season. 410-752-8632;

from left: courtesy of walters art museum; whitman coin and collectibles expo

Get closer. Go eye to eye with our 20,000 animal residents.


Baltimore’s Inner Harbor |


by Kara Baskin

Boston Rare Reads

Find distinctive books, maps and other printed materials at the International Antiquarian Book Fair On Nov. 13–15, the Hynes Convention Center turns into a literary wonderland with

oodles of rare and antique books sold by dealers from across the world. The Boston International Antiquarian Book Fair is one of the only fairs of its kind, showcasing manuscripts, autographs, maps, atlases, first editions, prints and photos. Many are up to 500 years old. “Boston is the site of so much intellectual wealth, and this is the rare chance to actually come in and learn from expert dealers,” says Nina Berger, who represents the fair. “This is the chance to see, touch, and buy items that would normally be in museums, behind glass.” In recent years, the fair has attracted dealers from as far away as Denmark, Germany and Russia, but it also has a strong local bent. Many Boston dealers will present rare maps depicting Boston from its Colonial days. Best of all, many of these rare wares are affordable. Novice collectors can snap up volumes for $100 or less, and panel discussions will explore how to start a collection. “We’re seeing a real uptick in younger people—college students, graduate students—coming to the fair. For them, antique books are like collecting old records,” Berger says. The fair will welcome roughly 120 dealers. A portion of ticket sales benefits the Boston Public Library and the American Antiquarian Society. 617-266-6540; Aimé Césaire, Corps Perdu: Gravures de Pablo Picasso. Paris (Éditions Fragrance) 1950

Joan Baez and Bob Dylan once performed at Club Passim.

Celebrating the Epicenter of Folk


ambridge’s Harvard Square has always been the thriving heart of folksy bohemia. In the 1950s and ’60s, its clubs and coffeehouses hosted luminaries like Joan Baez and Joni Mitchell. Every November the neighborhood is home to Folk Music Month, a series of concerts and exhibitions celebrating its musical roots. At the heart of the folk music movement was Club Passim, once known as Club 47, which attracted socially conscious neighborhood denizens, Harvard students and rising folk stars. Today, the ever-funky Passim continues the tradition by hosting more than 400 concerts a year. It’s also a neighborhood gathering place with a music school and songwriting workshops. Visit Passim and other neighborhood venues all month for concerts, photographic exhibits, documentaries and more. The celebration is held in partnership with the Harvard Square Business Association and FOLK New England. 617-491-3434;

For additional event, attraction, restaurant and hotel information, visit

save the date CITYWIDE




Catch established hometown legends (Denis Leary and Louis C.K. have appeared), plus promising up-and-comers at this beloved, multiday comedy showcase held at theaters throughout the area.

At the South End’s expansive Cyclorama at the Boston Center for the Arts, browse modern and contemporary furniture, edgy décor, fine antiques and sculptures. Proceeds benefit the Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS. 617-363-0405;

Nov. 6–14

Nov. 19–22

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A seasonal rite of passage for every local child—and for many visitors, too—this classic ballet is performed by the Boston Ballet in the landmark Boston Opera House. 617-695-6955;

The Hynes Convention Center hosts a juried exhibition of more than 175 artisans selling limited-edition crafts, baubles and gifts—perfect for shopping. 617-266-1810;

Nov. 27–Dec. 31

Dec. 11–13



Gather at the Old South Meeting House for a reenactment of the 1773 uprising, complete with appearances by rebel colonists like John Hancock and Paul Revere. 617-482-6439;







by Liz Johnson

New York Out-of-the-Box Christmas Consider these offbeat alternatives to New York’s holiday attractions

The holiday season in New York can be magical but also frustrating. The crowds!

The lines! The cold! Instead, take our suggestion, which can work as well in sightseeing as it does in life: Simplify. Rather than seeing the Christmas tree at Rockefeller Center and the decorated department store windows on Fifth Avenue, head a few blocks southeast to Bryant Park, where there’s a smaller tree, a smaller ice rink and a little shopping village. While everyone loves holiday classics like the Radio City Christmas Spectacular and The Nutcracker and Handel’s Messiah at Lincoln Center, New York also offers more intimate holiday performances. Do the Messiah Sing with the West Village Chorale, or try a contemporary take on The Nutcracker with The Hard Nut at the Brooklyn Academy The shopping village at Bryant Park. of Music. Want to see how real New Yorkers celebrate the holidays? Take the Christmas Lights and Cannoli Tour to Dyker Heights and Bay Ridge in Brooklyn, where you’ll see animatronics and over-the-top Christmas lights so bright you’ll have to wear shades. (One homeowner says he lost count after stringing some 250,000 bulbs for his display.) On second thought, maybe some things are better when they’re over-the-top!

Daniel Binelli

Celebrating Latin Culture


usic! Dance! Film! Or should we say: Música! Baile! Película! Latin American Cultural Week celebrates its 10th anniversary Nov. 12–22 this year, showcasing more than 40 theater, music, dance, film and visual arts presentations at venues all over New York City, from public libraries to the Poisson Rouge. Attend an opening concert including Argentina’s Daniel Binelli Quintet at Merkin Concert Hall (Nov. 12) and see five-time Latin Grammy winner Carlos Franzetti at the Clemente Soto Vélez Cultural Center on the Lower East Side (Nov. 16). Watch Argentine films at the Inwood branch of the New York Public Library (Nov. 14), or head to an auction of Latin American art at Christie’s (Nov. 24– 25). And through the week, Shall We Tango NYC 2015, a citywide tango festival, will celebrate the famous dance with performances, lectures and, yes, classes.

For additional event, attraction, restaurant and hotel information, visit

save the date CITYWIDE









Learn more about cider—a light, boozy beverage with the bubbles of Champagne, the complexity of wine and an alcohol level similar to beer— at tastings, events, restaurant specials and classes at venues across New York.

Michael C. Hall stars at the New York Theatre Workshop in a new musical by David Bowie and Enda Walsh, and directed by Ivo van Hove (Once). The play was inspired by the 1963 novel The Man Who Fell to Earth by Walter Tevis.

The Whitney Museum of American Art continues its inaugural year in its new building with “Collected by Thea Westreich Wagner and Ethan Wagner,” featuring artists such as Diane Arbus, Jeff Koons and Liz Deschenes. The show moves to Paris afterward.

Held in New York City since 1999 (and in other venues across the U.S., too), Cranksgiving is a bike ride, a food drive and a scavenger hunt rolled into one. It benefits City Harvest through the Bowery Mission.

Nov. 6–15

Nov. 18–Dec. 27

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Nov. 20–March 6


Nov. 21

Dec. 17

Celebrate with dancers, drummers and a nod to timehonored solstice rituals at this annual cross-cultural performance led by Grammy Awardwinning saxophonist Paul Winter at Cathedral of St. John the Divine.

from left: angelito jusay; peter shaaf







For groups or birthdays call 866.642.9849

New World Stages 340 W 50th St.

RESERVE NOW. 235 W 46TH ST. NY, NY 10036 (212) 706-7448



by JoAnn Greco

Philadelphia River Reflections

The Philadelphia Orchestra’s latest premiere uses the symbol of a river to explore urban and environmental connections Throughout its 115 years, the Philadelphia Orchestra has debuted works by masters like Mahler, Stravinsky and Rachmaninoff. So while the orchestra offers a full schedule of holiday music this season (including Tchaikovsky’s Winter Dreams and Handel’s Messiah), it will also continue its tradition of innovation by unveiling the world premiere of Hannibal Lokumbe’s One Land, One River, One People for three performances Nov. 13–15. The orchestra commissioned the work, an oratorio, after Hannibal (as he is known professionally) “approached us with an idea that had been percolating within him for a while,” says Jeremy Rothman, vice president of artistic planning. “It uses the symbol of a flowing river to explore our responsibility to one another and to the environment. We wanted to create a work that has deeper connections to Philadelphia and addresses the tensions that exist in all urban areas. It’s a profound message.” For the performance, the orchestra is giving vocal duties to singers from the choirs of three historically black colleges: Morgan State Hannibal Lokumbe and Music Director Yannick Nézet-Séguin together as University, Lincoln the Orchestra premiered the first movement of One Land, One River, One University and DelaPeople at Girard College in Philadelphia. ware State University. Concertgoers can expect a highly melodic, classically informed mix of jazz, American folk and spirituals that’s typical of the work of Hannibal, himself a jazz trumpeter. The program includes Sibelius’ Finlandia and Copland’s Appalachian Spring, two pieces that “also draw on folk tunes and are very much about the connection to the land,” says Rothman. 215-893-1999,

Riders enjoy the Indego bike-share system.

Explore on Two Wheels


hiladelphia’s 435 miles of urban bike lanes, along with its bucolic riverside trails and flat terrain, make it a great city for biking. The waning days of fall and the beginnings of the holiday season are the perfect time to explore it all via the new bike-share system, Indego. You’ll notice the bright blue, solar-powered stations, offering more than 600 bikes in all, at 60 spots throughout greater Center City and University City. Visitors looking to use the bikes mainly as transportation between sites will do fine by the walk-up method of paying $4 per 30-minute ride. Those out for longer rides can save by buying a 30-day membership for $15, which offers unlimited one-hour trips. 844-446-3346;

For additional event, attraction, restaurant and hotel information, visit

save the date AVENUE OF THE ARTS


The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts offers the first comprehensive survey of Lewis, often cited as the first African-American abstract expressionist artist. 215-9727600;



Bring the kids to the People’s Light for this musical, farcical take on the swashbuckling trio. 610-644-3500;

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“Ken Ludwig’s Baskerville: A Sherlock Holmes Mystery,” a comedic adaptation of Conan Doyle’s most popular story, is brought to life by five virtuoso actors. 215-9850420; philadelphiatheatre





Spend the holidays with sugarplum fairies and wooden soldiers at this classic production, performed by the Philadelphia Ballet and the School of Pennsylvania Ballet students. 215-893-1999;

This renowned a cappella ensemble will likely add a smattering of traditional holiday music to its jubilant mix. 215-898-3900;

Dec. 11–31

Dec. 12

from left: courtesy of the philadelphia orchestra; indego

concierge / health spotlight

A Season to Give

Bringing holiday cheer to patients at The Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia, and helping even more around the globe


esides summer vacation—maybe!—the holidays are the most magical time of the year for children. Yet for those with serious illnesses who must spend this time in the hospital, the season can be stressful and frustrating—for them and their parents. Thanks to the devoted staff of The Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia’s Child Life and Creative Arts Therapy program, however, each child’s time at CHOP is a bit more merry and bright.

part of the Polar Express, and passports are stamped at each location. Also, other activities such as Snow Day parties and employee holiday concerts go a long way in putting a smile on each child’s face throughout the season. Giving Helps Globally

All of CHOP’s Child Life programs rely on donor support to operate. And they’re just one example of how donations big and small make a meaningful difference in the lives of sick children. Gifts of all sizes help photos: Spreading Good Cheer to build state-of-the-art facilities like the newly Children Snowflake Station is a toy shop that’s become an opened Buerger Center for Advanced Pediatric experiencing annual CHOP tradition where parents of inpatients Care—the world’s most advanced pediatric outthe joy of the holidays at can select a holiday gift for their child. Because many patient facility. And for people who want their CHOP; the of the parents who take advantage of this service may giving to have global impact, there’s no better Buerger be feeling overwhelmed, Snowflake Station provides place than CHOP, the nation’s first hospital for Center. them with a personal shopper to help select just the children. Breakthroughs in childhood cancer treatright gift, and gets the presents wrapped and ready for ments, gene therapies, fetal surgery and many the kids to tear into. Children also love joining the staff to other fields touch the lives of children around the world. help decorate their area with a unique holiday theme. Once To learn more about how you can make an investment the adornments are up, tours of all the areas commence as in the future of children’s health, visit

The Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia • 34th Street and Civic Center Boulevard, Philadelphia • 800-TRY-CHOP • courtesy of the children’s hospital of Philadelphia


By Julie Tremaine

Providence An Artful Holiday

Find a personalized present at one of Providence’s many holiday art sales It’s no secret to anyone who’s spent time in Providence that the city has a richly

creative population. But unless you want to spend the day in search of the right shops, local art can be difficult to find. Not so at the holidays. In November and December, Providence hosts art sales that are perfectly timed for gift-giving—even if that gift is to yourself. There’s something exciting about buying a one-of-a-kind gift and something special about telling people that you were thinking of them during your travels. “It allows for personal connection,” says Kim T. Clark of Craftopia, a Nov. 15 art sale that focuses on fun, affordable gifts. “People love to meet the people who make the things they’re buying.” In addition to Craftopia, Providence hosts three other major art sales during the holiday season. The Foundry Show, Dec. 3–13, focuses on fine art and furniture. The Craftland Show, which runs daily in December, offers quirky gifts with a sense of humor. And the granddaddy of them all, the Rhode Island School of Design Holiday Handcrafted art on display at The Foundry Show. Art Sale on Dec. 5, features paintings, jewelry, ceramics, photography and more by 200 RISD students and alumni. When buying art, Clark says, “there’s a genuineness to the transaction. It’s all about connection and community.”;;;

Dancers at Mambo Pa Ti.

Dancing Through the Week


hake out the stress of the week—and learn a few new moves—at one of Providence’s recurring dance nights. On the first Wednesday of the month, the mixeduse creative space Aurora offers Salsa Con Soul, where you can learn to dance the mambo, pachanga, salsa or cha-cha. The $15 cover charge gets you two workshops and the ability to shake it all night to DJ Cue. Don’t let your lack of experience hold you back from Salsa Fever Thursdays with the dance school Mambo Pa Ti at Tantric Lounge. No partner is necessary for this popular weekly gathering. 401-952-2490; Lessons are optional at Swing Salon, presented every Friday night by Zazou Swing in the Hope Artiste Village in Pawtucket. Bring a partner—or find one on the dance floor—and swing dance all night long. 401-680-6244,

For additional event, attraction, restaurant and hotel information, visit

save the date FEDERAL HILL


Learn to cook gourmet Italian food from chef Walter Potenza, then sit down to dine on the fruits (and pasta) of your labors. 401-273-2652; chefwalterscooking



Thousands of superfans descend on the Rhode Island Convention Center for RI Comic Con, featuring appearances from stars of The Walking Dead and Star Trek.

98 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •







When an unarmed black teen is gunned down by white cops, a reporter digs for the truth in The Rant, playing at the Sandra Feinstein-Gamm Theatre. 401-723-4266;

The Book of Mormon, the outrageous musical comedy from the creators of South Park, takes you into the wilds of Africa with two young Mormon missionaries. 401-421-ARTS;

Ring in 2016 in style at the New Year’s Eve Masquerade Ball, featuring DJs and all-night dancing at the Rhode Island Convention Center. 401-217-9127;

Nov. 12–Dec. 13

Nov. 17–22

Dec. 31

from left: courtesy of the foundry show; mambo pa ti

Enjoy the journey


by Andrea Sachs

Washington, d.c. Holidays in Full Bloom


hile winter rages outside, the United States Botanic Garden provides a permanent spring, along with a festive visit from the North Pole. Season’s Greenings, held Nov. 26–Jan. 3, features a floral wonderland of decorated fir trees, poinsettias, train sets and D.C. landmark replicas constructed out of materials found in nature’s craft closet. This year, the theme for the Garden Railway model train exhibit is “Pollination Station.” The little engines will zip around more than 800 feet of track set among 15 to 20 sculptures of pollinators and flowers. In the Garden Court, the city’s iconic structures—the U.S. Capitol, Library of Congress, Washington Monument and Lincoln Memorial, among others—receive a botanical makeover with willow shoots, acorn caps, grapevine tendrils, screw pods and pine-cone scales. The organic creations warm the heart—and fingers and toes. 202-225-8333;

FotoWeekDC displays images at more than 50 locations around town.

Snap, Camera, Pop

FotoWeekDC turns a lens on photography’s moments and messages If a picture is worth a thousand words, FotoWeekDC speaks volumes. Starting on

Nov. 7, the snap-happy festival will transform the city into a giant photo album with hundreds of images appearing at more than 50 locations in town. The weeklong event, which debuted eight years ago, examines and elevates the visual medium within the framework of the capital city. “We live in a world where photography has proliferated,” says E. Brady Robinson, chairman of FotoDC’s board of directors. “It is my hope that visitors discover new work from national and world-renowned international photographers alongside D.C.’s own local talent.” FotoWeek explores the breadth of photography (landscape, portraits, photojournalism, digital) and diversity of participants (museums, embassies, galleries, photo collectives) through exhibits, talks and outdoor projections. In addition, the Former Residence of the Ambassadors of Spain will operate as FotoWeekCentral, a beehive of information and attractions. For example, “Aperture: Photographs,” a 50-year retrospective of the esteemed New York photography foundation, brings together such behind-the-lens luminaries as Dorothea Lange, William Christenberry, Mary Ellen Mark and Paul Strand. Attendees can also learn from the masters at the National Gallery’s panel discussion with Sally Mann and during a photo safari led by National Geographic experts. The pros will help amateur shutterbugs hone their craft and maybe even boost their “like” count on Instagram.

The model train exhibit at the United States Botanic Garden.

For additional event, attraction, restaurant and hotel information, visit

save the date BETHESDA




At the Museum Shop Around, gift stores from nearly two dozen cultural institutions offer the ultimate buying spree at the Mansion at Strathmore. 301-581-5109;

The renovated Renwick Gallery, the Smithsonian American Art Museum’s craft and decorative arts program, reopens with the exhibit “WONDER,” plus family activities and Handi-hour, with “crafty” specialists with art, music and brews. 202-633-7970;

Nov. 12–14

Nov. 13–14

100 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •



The Gay Men’s Chorus of Washington, which celebrates its 35th anniversary this season, is more naughty than nice in its Lincoln Theatre holiday show, Rewrapped. 202-293-1548;





The Willard adds nutmeg, gingerbread and other Noel flavors to its holiday afternoon tea, which is served in the hotel’s Peacock Alley to live harp accompaniment. 202637-7350; washington.

The Barnes and Hampton Celtic Consort rounds up harps, lutes, bodhrans, flutes and recorders for the candlelit Celtic Christmas concerts at Dumbarton United Methodist Church. 202-965-2000;

Dec. 1–24

Dec. 5, 6, 12, 13

from left: courtesy of fotoweek dc; united states botanic garden

[ foundations + foresight ]



Sophomore Laura Gilchrist, historic preservation major, has her hands in the past and her eyes on the future. Musician, Latin dancer, museum volunteer, and future curator – she digs UMW. Uncover more about University of Mary Washington at Or call an enrollment specialist today at 800-468-5614.


by Eileen Smith Dallabrida

Wilmington Pieces of History at Antiques Show


ong a must-do event for collectors and admirers, the Delaware Antiques Show Nov. 6–8 attracts sellers from as far afield as Portugal, as well as top dealers from the history-drenched Brandywine Valley. Founded in 1964, the show got off the ground with the support of Henry F. du Pont, the esteemed collector of American furniture who established his estate Winterthur as a museum in 1951. The 52nd annual show will take place at the Chase Center on the Riverfront in Wilmington. Galleries will be awash with 18th-century decoys, marine paintings, garden fountains and more. In addition to rarefied shopping, the event includes lectures by experts on furniture and decorative arts, as well as exhibits of collections on loan. The show benefits education programs at Winterthur. 800-448-3883;

A Snow White Christmas at Odessa Foundation.

Christmas in Wonderland

The Historic Odessa Foundation’s annual holiday tour celebrates Alice’s 150th birthday

Each year, the Historic Odessa Foundation holiday celebration interprets a theme from a literary classic. The 2015 tour of the historic village takes visitors through the looking glass by celebrating the 150th anniversary of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland by Lewis Carroll. The Wilson-Warner House, a Georgian-style manse built in 1769, will be fancifully decorated with vignettes reflecting Alice and the characters she meets on her odyssey. The foundation’s other homes, meticulously restored from the 18th and 19th centuries, also will be decked out for the holidays, providing a glimpse of how early Americans observed traditions and entertained. Odessa, once a bustling grain port, is a favored destination for day-trippers, who can stroll tree-lined streets as they tour the foundation’s three homes, plus a restored bank and pump house. Cantwell’s Tavern, once known as the Brick Hotel, has been restored as a convivial Colonial-style restaurant. More than 6,000 examples of Mid-Atlantic artistry and craftsmanship are showcased throughout the foundation’s buildings. Odessa also hosts Christmas in Odessa, a self-guided tour of owner-occupied homes, on Dec. 5. The Historic Odessa Foundation tour runs from Nov. 11 to Dec. 31, with the exception of Mondays, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. 302-378-4119;

A gallery at the Delaware Antiques Show.

For additional event, attraction, restaurant and hotel information, visit

save the date NEW CASTLE


This 13.1-mile race is run on the newly paved Michael N. Castle C&D Canal Trail, a fast and flat route that boasts views of the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal and quaint historic bridges. runthecanal. com



Craft beers on tap include homegrown Delaware brews from Dogfish Head, 16 Mile, Twin Lakes and Dominion. Restaurants pour it on with craft flights, prix-fixe menus and special tastings. 302-655-6483;

102 Arrıve • November/December 2015 •





See how the wealthy raised the grandeur during the holidays with feasting and decorations in this opulent mansion, former home of industrialist Alfred I. du Pont. 302-651-6912;

Tour private homes dating to the 1700s as well as historic sites and museums, all lavishly decorated for the holidays. The event also includes an antiques bazaar, a bake sale and a greens sale. 302-6457670;

Nov. 7–Dec. 31

Dec. 5



Tchaikovsky’s timeless ballet pirouettes into the elegant Grand Opera House. A glittering score and fanciful costumes from celebrated Russian designers add sparkle to the production. 302-652-5577;

from left: courtesy of the historic odessa foundation; winterthur

HOLIDAY EVENTS Holiday Tours at Nemours NOVEMBER 7 – DECEMBER 31, 2015 Nemours Mansion & Gardens

Yuletide at Winterthur NOVEMBER 21 – JANUARY 3, 2016 Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library

A Longwood Christmas Holidays at Hagley, Hagley Museum & Library

NOVEMBER 26 – JANUARY 10, 2016 Longwood Gardens

Holiday Magic Awaits…

Holidays at Hagley

We invite you to experience the holiday grandeur of the past and the beauty of the present in Wilmington and the Brandywine Valley. From du Pont family mansions dressed for the season to humble colonial traditions along decorated cobblestone streets this is a destination of sharp contrast. A destination that tells a romantic tale of two cultures, two centuries and two different worlds.

Christmas in Odessa

NOVEMBER 27 – DECEMBER 31, 2015 Hagley Museum & Library

DECEMBER 5, 2015 Odessa, Delaware

The Spirit of Christmas DECEMBER 12, 2015 Historic New Castle, Delaware

Travel Amtrak to Wilmington, DE and save 30% on a companion fare when you book at

For your FREE Visitors Guide go to:

Coupons and special offers also available. Contact us by phone at 800-489-6664. Copyright © 2015 of the Greater Wilmington Convention and Visitors Bureau.

A Longwood Christmas, Longwood Gardens

ArriveMagazineNov/Dec:Layout 1 9/30/14 7:58 PM Page 1

reservations 207.837.6565

Where you’re the

center of attention in the center of it all

52 handsomely appointed guest rooms & suites Steps away from the lively downtown Next to Brunswick Station with Amtrak service Contemporary Tavern for cocktails and cuisine Meetings & special events up to 150 guests 207.837.6565 | | 4 noble street | brunswick, me


Hip & Historic! with twice daily round-trip Amtrak service to Boston & points between

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The Melvin Memorial

Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, Concord, Mass.

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“Musically high-spirited! Infectiously jolly!” -The Washington Post

holiday Attractions American Shakespeare Center Staunton, Va.

Big time culture. Small town cool. Hailed as one of the top 10 small towns

Nov. 19-Dec. 31, 2015

in America, Staunton’s charming downtown is a preservation success story with a national reputation. The city is host to the world’s only

by Charles Dickens; adapted by Michael Wilson; directed by Michael Baron

re-creation of Shakespeare’s indoor

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Center’s Blackfriars Playhouse. Sample

Season Sponsors: The Home Depot; Chevron

theatre: the American Shakespeare a show at the ASC for a one-of-a-kind,

In Washington, D.C.

fun, interactive experience. If history is

Photo of Edward Gero by Scott Suchman.

your passion, visit the Frontier Culture Museum or the Woodrow Wilson Presidential Library, or take a unique, customized tour of beautiful Staunton, led by an experienced guide who knows its history … and its stories. Outstanding restaurants, wine bars, and artisanal breweries round out the local flavor. No car needed! Amtrak can drop you off

John Tlumacki/The Boston Globe

right in the heart of downtown Staunton.

Opens Nov. 13, 2015 Explore headline-making FBI cases and learn how the bureau is fighting terrorism and cybercrime in this special update to one of the Newseum’s most popular exhibits.

Cambridge Office for Tourism Hip without trying. Edgy, not over the edge. Cool before it was cool to be … well, cool. History versus technology … it’s here. Art galleries, Hubways, street performers, professors, Goths, students, protests, contests, college sports, cappuccinos, coffee houses, bistros,

NEWSEUM.ORG 555 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., N.W., WASHINGTON, D.C. TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice Top 10 Museums in the U.S.

luxury, shabby, FABULOUSNESS!!!! This is a place where no one blinks if

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you’re having the time of your life while changing the world. From renowned universities to luxury hotels and everything in between, Cambridge is a fascinating combo of what’s in and what’s been. A blend of international with a dash of glamour … it’s whatever you make it be. Your Cambridge experience starts here.

Guggenheim Museum Arrive 1/3-page horizontal 4.625 x 4.625 updated 7-31-13 Gugg 66 b

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Caravan 1-800-CARAVAN Costa Rica 8 Days $1095 With All Meals Included! Caravan welcomes you to the “rich coast,” friendly land of democracy and rare natural beauty. With naturalist guides, see exotic birds and wildlife, hike in jungle rainforests, view volcanoes, soak in hot springs, cruise through biological reserves, and relax on tropical ocean beaches. Your Costa Rica tour includes all meals, all activities, all hotels, a great itinerary, all airport transfers, and all transportation and excursions on tour.

The frame is Frank Lloyd Wright’s masterpiece of modern architecture. The art inside includes a world-renowned collection of works by Chagall, Kandinsky, Picasso, van Gogh, and other modern masters, plus changing exhibitions that are always significant and intriguing.

Join the smart shoppers and experienced travelers who rely on Caravan to handle all the details while you and your family enjoy a well-earned, worry-free vacation. Call now for choice dates. Free 28-page brochure.

Craddock Terry Hotel Voted one of the Top Hotels and Special Events Venues in Central Virginia, the Craddock Terry Hotel features the

5th Ave at 89th St Sun–Wed & Fri 10–5:45, Sat 10–7:45

212 423 3500

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creative adaptive reuse of existing historic architecture into a modern boutique hotel design. What once was a turn-of-the-century shoe factory, now you can relish in as an upscale overnight experience. The hotel offers 4,000+ square feet of meeting and event space with award-winning onsite restaurants, including Shoemakers American Grille, Waterstone Pizza and Jefferson Street Brewery. Enjoy elegant guest rooms, luxurious bathrooms, a

Discover a city unlike any other. 800.800.2202

signature breakfast in an old-fashioned wooden shoeshine box, turndown service, room service and much more in this riverfront hotel.

Ford’s Theatre

A Christmas Carol By Charles Dickens Adapted by Michael Wilson Directed by Michael Baron Nov. 19—Dec. 31 Ford’s Theatre 511 Tenth Street, N.W.

Good things come in SQUARE packages.

The annual Ford’s Theatre production of A Christmas Carol has been a

Shop the SQUARES of Cambridge this holiday season.

Washington tradition for more than 30 years. Join the ghosts of Christmas Past, Present and Future as they lead the miserly Ebenezer Scrooge on a journey of transformation and redemption. Originally conceived by Michael Baron, this music-infused production captures the magic and joy of Dickens’s Yuletide classic.

Celebrate the season with the production The Washington Post hailed as “musically high-spirited” and “infectiously jolly.”

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holiday Attractions Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum 5th Ave at 89th St. New York City 212-423-3500;

Home to a world-renowned collection of modern and contemporary art, the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Guggenheim Museum is itself a masterpiece. Special exhibitions on view include “Alberto Burri: The Trauma of Painting” (through Jan. 6), featuring 100 works by the

New York Botanical Garden. Photo by Sally Gall, courtesy The Cultural Landscape Foundation.

Through May 1, 2016, at the National Building Museum This exhibition showcases the revolutionary modern landscape architecture of Wolfgang Oehme and James van Sweden, whose self-sustaining, meadowlike landscapes exemplified what came to be known as the New American Garden. The exhibition is organized in collaboration with The Cultural Landscape Foundation. Learn more at

pioneering Italian artist, who blurred boundaries between painting and

401 F Street NW, Washington DC

sculpture with his use of unconventional materials and techniques. “Photo-Poetics: An Anthology” (Nov. 20–March 23)


explores important new developments in contemporary photography through the work of 10 artists within the context of the history of art and visual culture. Plan your




visit and buy tickets at

Hampton CVB © 2015 Lucasfilm Ltd. & TM. All rights reserved. Used under authorization.

A city with an old soul and youthful enthusiasm, Hampton has been home to unique characters and an adventurous spirit for over 400 years. Discover the attractions, the history and the unique flavor that makes Hampton a city unlike any other. Where else can you take a boat ride to an island fortress, come face-to-face with Blackbeard the Pirate, ride a 100-year-old horse, catch the latest IMAX movie in 3-D and shoot off into the cosmos—all in one place? For visitor information and to book your getaway, go to




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holiday Attractions Mount Vernon: George Washington’s Estate & Gardens

South end of George Washington Parkway, Alexandria, Va. 703-780-2000 Discover the real George Washington through his restored riverside estate. Explore his iconic mansion, gardens and farm with heritage breed animals, and visit his final resting place. Mount Vernon now includes a working whiskey distillery, gristmill and blacksmith shop and galleries that feature inter­active exhibits, hundreds of personal artifacts—like Washington’s dentures—and original movies, including one with falling snow. Open 365 days a year.

Museum of Fine Art Boston Now on view.

This fall (Oct 11-Jan 18), the museum debuts “Class Distinctions: Dutch Painting in the Age of Rembrandt and Vermeer,” the first exhibition to look at 17th-century Dutch paintings through the lens of the social classes. The exhibition, of 75 paintings from collections both in the U.S. and abroad, features major works by artists including Rembrandt and Vermeer.

National Building Museum The National Building Museum presents “The New American Garden,” a new exhibition featuring stunning examples

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Scan for hotel deals & info

Our free amenities save you $50 or more per night compared with other area hotels: • Free Wi-Fi ($15 value) • Free Parking ($15 value) • Free Shuttle Service ($15 value) • Free Continental Breakfast • Walk to Shopping, Dining, & Metro • 1 block to Crystal City Underground • 2 blocks to Pentagon City Mall • 5 minutes to Washington, D.C.

of work that revolutionized modern American landscape architecture. Photography, video, models and artwork showcase the partnership of Wolfgang Oehme and James van Sweden, 20thcentury masters of the form who created self-sustaining, meadow-like landscapes that exemplified what came to be known


as the New American Garden. Their firm designed projects for clients across the nation, including the Federal Reserve Bank in D.C., the Chicago Botanic Garden and the New York Botanical Garden. Organized in collaboration with The Cultural Landscape Foundation. Learn more at

National Geographic Museum

Visit the world’s only Blackfriars Playhouse for “phenomenally entertaining” theatre and get some insider knowledge about the town through Staunton Guided Tours.

17th and M streets, N.W. Washington, D.C. “Indiana Jones and the

Adventure of Archaeology” Through Jan. 3, 2016

Museum that features the wonderful props, costumes and clips from the famous films along with fascinating artifacts and stories of some real archaeologists around the world. For ticket information visit

An Easy Ride on the Train to Staunton, VA, one of Smithsonian Magazine’s Best 20 Small Towns in America.


Explore headline-making FBI cases and learn how the bureau is fighting terrorism and cybercrime in this special Gregory Jon Phelps as Bottom in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Photo by Michael Bailey. NancybyHouseknecht. Gregory Jon Phelps as Bottom in A MidsummerPhoto Night’sediting Dream.byPhoto Michael Bailey. Photo editing by Nancy Houseknecht.

Photo by Woods Pierce.

See “Inside Today’s FBI” opening Nov. 13 at the Newseum!


An exhibition at National Geographic

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update to one of the Newseum’s most popular exhibits. From the Boston Marathon bombing to the Internet’s sinister Silk Road, go behind the scenes with the FBI to

Lynchburg’s onLy riverfront hoteL

explore how crime and crime-fighting

Thoughtful details, indulgent finishes, upgraded amenities...the Craddock Terry Hotel, once a shoe factory, offers residential-style boutique design with traditional decor. Featuring fine dining, casual dining and a microbrewery on-site.

have evolved in the post-9/11 age. As the bureau embarks on its second

Overlooking the James River, you’ll enjoy our elegant guest rooms, luxurious baths, signature breakfast, Wi-Fi, and whimsical upscale touches. Visit our Web site or call and ask about special packages and promotions.

century, the exhibit explores how the FBI detects and disrupts terrorists and cyber criminals. One visit and you’ll discover for yourself why TripAdvisor users ranked the Newseum among the top 25 museums in the entire nation. I 4 3 4 .4 5 5 .15 0 0

Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library

Complimentary Luxury Sedan Service to and from the Hotel.

8-Day Tour $1195 With All Meals Included!

ui s


Day 1. Enjoy two nights in Panama City.


Enjoy rainforests and beaches with two daytime cruises on the Panama Canal! Join the smart shoppers and experienced travelers who rely on Caravan for a wonderful vacation—¡Hasta la vista!

Embera Atlantic Ocean Indian Village Gatun Locks Gamboa Gatun Lake Rainforest Resort Boat Cruise C a na l Gaillard Cut Pedro Miguel Locks Miraflores Locks Panama City


Beach Resort Daystop Overnight

Pacific Ocean

Costa Rica 9 days $1095 Day 3. Cruise on Gatun Lake and Canal. Panama Tour & Canal 8 days $1195 10 days $1395 Spend two nights at your rainforest resort. Nova Scotia & P�E�I� Canadian Rockies, Glacier 9 days $1595 Day 4. Panama Canal cruise through Grand Canyon, Bryce, Zion 8 days $1395 Miraflores and Pedro Miguel Locks. California Coast, Yosemite 8 days $1295 Mt� Rushmore, Yellowstone 8 days $1295 Day 5. Cruise on the Chagres River to New England Fall Foliage 8 days $1295

Day 6. All day at leisure to enjoy resort.

Day 7. Panama City. Visit to Kuna Indian marketplace and Museum of Biodiversity. Day 8. Return with wonderful memories! Read full tour itinerary at

4.625x4.625.Arrive.SEP.2015.PA.indd 1

Founded by Henry Francis du Pont, Winterthur is the premier museum of American decorative arts, reflecting both early America and the du Pont family’s life at this glorious estate. Enjoy Yuletide at Winterthur—a

Two Nights

Day 2. Explore the ruins of Panama Viejo. #1 Value Guided Vacations tax & fees extra Guatemala, Tikal, Antigua 10 days $1295 Visit the Canal Museum at Miraflores.

visit an Embera Indian village. Enjoy a relaxing two night stay at beach resort.

5105 Kennett Pike (Route 52) Winterthur, Del. 800-448-3883;

spectacular holiday showcase and tour of H. F. du Pont’s former home decorated in holiday style, Nov. 21, 2015—Jan. 3, 2016. Enjoy visions of holidays past, including those of the Gilded Age, and celebrate du Pont family holiday traditions. On view in the Winterthur

“ Brilliant, Affordable Pricing ” Panama

Galleries: “Tiffany Glass: Painting with

Free 28pg Brochure

Jan. 3, 2016. For information and tickets,

–Arthur Frommer, Travel Editor

Color and Light” —open now through visit

Guided Vacations Since 1952 7/27/15 3:21 PM




Aloft Hotels Different. By Design. Designed for the “always-on” next generation of traveler, Aloft Hotels offers a tech-forward, vibrant experience and a modern style that is different by design. Relax in our modern loft spaces, stay connected with fast & free Wi-Fi and mix and mingle in style at the W XYZ ® bar. Check out 100 hotels open now and coming soon around the globe.

Four Points Travel Reinvented Get what matters most—like stylish rooms, a comfortable bed, fast & free Internet access and free bottled water. Plus, breakfast cooked to order, fresh coffee, great local beer on tap with Best TM Brews and other extras that you’ll love. With 200+ hotels in more than 30 countries, you can find the timeless style and genuine service you want all around the world.

The Brunswick Hotel and Tavern Located in the heart of Brunswick, ME, the hotel offers 52 handsomely appointed guestrooms and suites and a fitness center. The hotel is within walking distance to Bowdoin College and next to Brunswick Station, providing Amtrak service. The on-property tavern is open daily for breakfast, lunch, dinner and al fresco dining on the adjoining patio and covered porch is available. It is truly in the center of it all. 30 minutes from Portland & 15 minutes from Freeport shopping. 207-837-6565

Element Hotels Space to Live Your Life Work, play and relax at Element Hotels. Enjoy all the essentials of balanced travel, including spacious guestrooms featuring the signature Heavenly® Bed, fully equipped kitchens and spa-inspired bathrooms, complimentary Rise breakfast and Relax evening wine receptions—and everything you need to be productive on the road.


Windham Mountain Resort

This holiday season, enjoy Loews hotels in Annapolis, D.C., Philadelphia, New York and Boston or any one of our locations throughout North America. We want you to feel welcome any time and every time you walk through our doors, so our distinctive hotels and resorts offer guests the room they need by providing the ultimate in upscale travel experiences. Each property has special offers to make your travels the best they can be; whichever destination is closest to your family, visit to learn more.

At the Winwood Inn you’ll be left in awe by modern Catskills coziness and spectacular views of the mountains! The inn’s amenities won’t disappoint—with access to a spacious fitness center, game room for kids of all ages, a 100-person movie theater where your whole family can gather to watch a favorite film, Rock’n Mexicana Cantina and Grill for your delectable gastronomic desires, and complimentary shuttle service to Windham Mountain Resort. Reserve comfortable rooms, spacious suites, and onsite condos that are situated just minutes from the Northeast’s yearround outdoor lifestyle destination.









HOME & GARDEN Your home is an extension of yourself. It should make you feel comforted, help your guests feel welcomed, and speak volumes about your values and interests. Whether your living space is a quiet, cozy place to enjoy your family, a multi-use home office and gym, or a venue to entertain friends and neighbors often, you want it to be functional, fashionable, and representative of you. Find the gadget you never realized your kitchen is sorely lacking and that piece of stylish décor you simply can’t live without within our curated collection.

SteakChamp® Steak Thermometer Give the local steakhouse a run for its money. Now every dinner guest—and picky eater in your family—gets exactly the steak they want, no guesswork involved. SKU: TP102000



Salting and seasoning a steak 45 minutes before grilling gives it the best flavor and texture.



Flameless Grill Smoker Remember that unbelievable meal you had on your trip to the Midwest? Admit it—you’ve contemplated hopping on a plane just to get another steak that tasted that good. Now, recreating the taste at home is a breeze, no boarding pass required. SKU: SMST304


The Perfect Growler Score—you’ve finally found your favorite microbrew, and it’s perfect for pairing with that gourmet burger you’re preparing for dinner. But nothing deflates a good meal like a flat, warm beer. Keep your draught icy cold, bubbly, and fresh from the first sip to the last. Ahhh. 128 oz. Growler SKU: DTWS128GBLK

64 oz. Growler SKU: DT64GBLK

6-pack of C02 SKU: DTC026

Keg Cap System SKU: DT64GKCP



(Ground shipping only.)



Keyboard Waffle Iron They only said breakfast was the most important meal of the day—not that it had to be boring. Treat yourself to fluffy Belgian-style waffles, freshly made in the shape of your…wait for it… computer keyboard. It’s breakfast fit for the information age. Die cast, non-stick aluminum is easy to clean, with heat resistant curved handles wfor easy flipping. 12.625” L x 10.1875” W x 1.1875” H

SKU: KWI101 $84.99



Write-on World Map Wall Mural If you absolutely must know what and where the capital of Vanuatu is, this accurately detailed write-on map shows you everything from time zones to shipping lanes. Brighten up your workplace or home office with the world at your fingertips. SKU: EGC900


Cycling Workstation Doesn’t it always seem like the great ideas come rushing in just as you start to get your body in motion? Cycle while you work to keep the inspiration comin’. (But if you want to use it to prop up your laptop and stream the game while you work out, we won’t hold it against you.) Work surface: 17.25” W x 10” D Capacity: 250 lbs. SKU: ST852221


Shrub Jacket Winter isn’t just hard on you; it’s hard on your outdoor garden and shrubbery, too. Protect plants from winter winds, deep freezes, road salt, and scavenging animals. Breathable fabric bags wrap easily and secure at top and bottom with drawstring. Summer storage bag included. SKU: IMP372679GRP Small $12.99 Medium $15.99


Large $19.99 Roll (5’ x 30’) $49.99


UpCart® All-terrain Stair Climbing Folding Cart Don’t you think that bookcase in the living room is better suited for one of the kids’ rooms upstairs? And that great estate sale score needs to find its way to the attic for the time being. Rather than round up your son’s whole football team for all that heavy lifting, you can DIY and be done before you know it. Winner of the Most Innovative Concept Award at the 2015 National Hardware Show. Built with strong metal materials and bearings to hold up over time. Made to meet unique environmental and surface challenges. Folds to just four inches for convenient storage. Capacity: 100 lbs. Open: 19.5” L x 23” W x 43.9” H Platform: 16.5” W x 9.75” D SKU: MPC-1DS


Stair Step Treads Shoveling the walkway is treacherous enough. Who wants to cap it off with a balancing act—or worse, a wipeout—on icy steps and stoops? Leave the ice dancing to the pros on TV and make it safely inside (where the hot cocoa is waiting). Heavy duty .5”-thick treads and mats, made of skid-resistant 100% recycled rubber, absorb the sun’s warmth so snow and ice simply shake off. Mold resistant and easy to clean. SKU: IMPSTEPGRP Single 36” x 9” tread

Single 48” x 10” tread

Set of 3, 36” x 9” treads

Secure Step Mat, 36” x 48”



$24.99 $59.99

Set of 3, 48” x 10” treads


Portable Extendable Ladder When you need a ladder, you’re glad you have it. When you want to put it away, you wish you could toss it right to the curb. Is there any convenient place to store a traditional ladder for use around the house? Nope. That’s where this one comes in. Storage bag included. Platform height: 8.5’; maximum height: 12.5’ SKU: CD750




Fish Deco Cubes You picked up some betta fish at the pet store, and now you want to keep them happy…and safely separated. These cubes do it all. Perfect for both the pet lover and home décor enthusiast in you. Cubes hold a half gallon of water each. Support arms connect and stack cubes easily in customizable configurations. 5.5” L x 5.5” W x 5.5” H SKU: BB4815 Set of 3 Fish Cubes


SKU: BB3115 Additional Cube


SKU: BB5700 Stacking Kit



The giant whale shark is the world’s biggest fish, measuring up to 60 feet long.

Ivation Inflatable Bed with Stand & Auto Shut-Off When your last-minute guests end up staying the night, or your in-laws drop by unannounced (surprise!), you can do better than making up the couch for your company. This inflatable bed is a far cry from the blow-up mattress they’re used to. And when it’s time to clear out, it deflates like a dream with the flip of a switch. Capacity: 300 lbs. (Twin); 400 lbs. (Queen) Carrier: 24” L x 14” D x 22.5” H; 37 lbs. (Twin) 32” L x 14” D x 21” H; 44 lbs. (Queen) Inflated: 79” L x 63.5” W x 21” H (Twin) 80” L x 72” W x 23.5” H (Queen)

SKU: 490209GRP Twin $229.99 Queen $249.99



Rackpack Convertible Wine Rack It’s a wine carrier. It’s an expandable wine rack. It’s the ideal gift for the sweet host or hostess, or the perfect way to be prepared for a winetasting party of any size. Can be configured to hold up to three, six, or 12 wine bottles. Carrier: 4.25” L x 4.25” W x 15.75” H 6 Bottle Rack: 4.38” L x 21.5” W x 13” H 12 Bottle Rack: 4.38” L x 31.5” W x 2.13” H SKU: RA456GRP


Italian Replica Globe Bar Travel stories and a cold drink: is there a better formula for a great cocktail party conversation? We’ll raise our glass to that. Assembly required. Height: 38.5”; Diameter: 22”; Weight: 21 lbs. SKU: SJ45001


Wireless Wine Thermometer You don’t need to be a sommelier to serve (or enjoy) the perfect glass of wine. This intuitive wine thermometer has 10 preprogrammed settings to take the guesswork out of cocktail hour. Whether you select something light and fruity or a bold red, you’ll want to toast to this little miracle worker. Wireless temperature display allows you to remotely monitor temperature as bottle chills on ice or in refrigerator. SKU: KEL101




HEALTH & BEAUTY Between getting the kids to school, dashing to work, and all the errands you run in between, who has time to see a doctor (or massage therapist) with each new ache and pain? We have the tools and devices you need to soothe your body, unwind your mind, and keep your health in check, right from your home or office.

Back Pain Reliever and Stretcher Baby on your hip, briefcase on your shoulder, computer screen in front of you. All day, the things you do take a toll on your body and can lead to serious discomfort. Stop, drop, and roll out the kinks and tweaks before back pain has the chance to drag you down. Easy assembly required. Arms adjusts to narrow, medium, and wide. Capacity: 250 lbs. 72” L x 25” W x 11” H; 20.25 lbs. SKU: ST551401




Deluxe Heated Therapy Pad Remember that hot water bottle your grandmother used to quiet her aches and pains? Well this is a whole lot better than that. Cutting edge far-infrared rays (FIR) soothe sore muscles for head-to-toe relief that lasts so you can feel like you again. Automatically shuts off after eight hours. Four custom settings. 26” L x 36” W SKU: VHKB2636


Heated Seat Cushion You love to cheer on your little football player. But when the temperatures get low, sitting in those bleachers is really a labor of love. Keep yourself toasty so you can cheer him on from kick-off through the final touchdown. Available in Black, Blue, Green, or Red. SKU: VHSSGRP


Cordless Heated Knee Pain Relief Wrap Let knee pain slow you down? You? Yeah, right. We mean, you deserve a rest. But you get to decide when it’s time. Your pain won’t dictate it for you. Powered by rechargeable 7-volt lithium-ion battery. Flex panel delivers heat to top, back, and side of knee on four settings: Low, Medium, High, Max. SKU: VHSH35




Posture Training Wrap How many times a day do you catch yourself hunched over a desk, smartphone, cutting board, or laundry pile? Didn’t your mother always tell you to stop slouching? Breaking that bad habit can be easier than you think. See available colors and sizing chart at Solid SKU: SNU101GRP $39.99

Reversible SKU: SU102RS2 $49.99

Shiatsu Full Body Massager It’s been too long since your last spa weekend. And even if you can’t get away for the next trip anytime soon, you deserve some pampering. Close your eyes and you’ll swear you’re on a beach in Tahiti, just crashing waves and a massage therapist to keep you company. SKU: ITKH269


Wireless Neck Massager You know those days—the ones that leave you with a bundle of tense muscles in your neck, shoulders, and back. Meet your new personal massage therapist, ready to banish those aches with the touch of a button. Low-frequency electronic therapy delivers effective pain relief to deep tissue. Designed to work with the curvature of the upper body. Controlled by hand remote. SKU: LA517




Bluetooth Heated Massage Chair Turn up the heat, plug in your headphones, and it’s as simple as that: You’ve booked some “me” time, and we know you’ve earned it. Why not go all the way and put a “Do Not Disturb” sign on the front door? Smartphone connectivity streams audio from your device. Available in Brown or Black. 54.33” L x 36.61” W x 53.14” H; 580 lbs. Opens to 86.61” L SKU: CDPS900GRP


(Includes white glove assembly.)

Rechargeable Hot and Cold TENS Unit Sometimes all it takes is a few minutes of peace, quiet, and electronic ice or heat therapy to feel like a brand new person. Leave the bag of peas in the freezer and say goodbye to your mother’s hot water bottle—this is the next generation of at-home pain relief. SKU: GH9001




ELECTRONICS Technology helps make life sweeter, sleeker, and easier. Create highlight reels of the events and vacations you’ll want to remember forever. Explore the great outdoors to the un-interrupted beat of your favorite music. Outfit your car with gadgets fit for the future. Say thousands of words simply with easy-to-share images you create. And at the end of each day, recharge your batteries with style and convenience. Tap into the best tools of the digital generation to add a layer of luxury to all your daily activities, family vacations, workdays, and favorite hobbies. From high-tech photo solutions to spy movie-inspired tools, it’s all here.

Polaroid ZIP Instant Photoprinter As quick as you can capture the moment, you want to share those vibrant pictures with family and friends. Forget emailing image files that sit around in their inboxes. Give them the real thing, faster than you can say “Cheese!” Rechargeable battery prints 25 sheets on a single 90-minute charge and connects to smartphones, tablets, and more via standard USB or Bluetooth. Companion app lets you edit and enhance for picture-perfect 2” x 3” snapshots that are smudge-proof and sticky-backed for layers of fun. Features ZINK Zero Ink printer technology; comes with 10-count paper pack. Available in Black, Blue, Red, or White. SKU: POLMP01GRP




Wireless Floating Bluetooth Speaker What’s a party without good music and great conversation? Cover both bases with a tiny hovering UFO blasting the best background or dance floor tunes. Talk about a conversation piece. Winner of the Best Innovation Award at the 2015 Consumer Electronics Show. Built-in lithium-ion rechargeable battery runs for 12 hours. SKU: SECSBT311


RC Quadcopter Aircraft Send a futuristic aircraft into space. Race on the ground at lightning speed. Defy gravity and scale the highest walls. This airship does it all, and your kid will love being its one-man total command center. Fly multiple copters at once with 2.4 Ghz antenna. Controller requires 4 AA batteries (not included). Ages 14 and up. SKU: MUNX1700


Artist Brush & Stylus You already use your smartphone and tablet to keep your schedule in check, but who says you can’t use them to unleash your creative side, too? Draw, paint, sketch, and doodle away in the creative apps you already use with a new level of control. Michelangelo would be green with envy. Available in Chrome or Black. SKU: SESENSUGRP




Recharging Laptop and Tablet Tray Sometimes the workday just doesn’t seem to end, even when you’re ready to hit the hay. And sometimes you want to get a jump on the next day’s tasks. And sometimes, that TV show marathon is just too good to quit. (You don’t need to give us your reasons.) Charge two devices at once with dual USB ports, including two-amp output tablets require. Reading light included. Open: 31” L x 13” W; height adjustable from 8.7” to 11”. Folded: 13” L x 11” W SKU: LH33148


Smartphone Photo Printer Finally, a justification for all those selfies on your smartphone. Say a thousand words with your favorite pictures and those perfect snapshots from T-ball games, your last family beach trip, or your little one’s first birthday. Say goodbye to desperately searching the drugstore for the ideal greeting card. Now you can craft your own—or a postcard, or standalone image—for any occasion! Replacement paper cartridges sold at SKU: VPIPWFPO1


Cartridges SKU: VPACS21 $24.95

Tablift Hands-free Tablet Holder Stream TV and movies, display webpages and social media, stand in for an eReader—your tablet can do anything you ever wanted it to. Except stand on its own…until now. Affix it to a new kind of tablet stand that does the heavy lifting for you, and your days of balancing acts are behind you. You’ve got the whole package now. SKU: NBR101




Polaroid CUBE+ “You had to be there!” Kiss that familiar refrain goodbye. Everyone can get in on the action when it’s all caught on video, and this compact camera goes everywhere you go. Wi-Fi enabled to stream and control video right from your smartphone. Records up to 107 minutes of 1440p/720p HD video. Mountable weather-proof 8MP 35mm x 35mm camera records 124° of whatever the wearer sees. Attach to a bike helmet, skateboard, or social butterfly to capture every bit of the best day ever. Polaroid case and 8GB MicroSD card included. Available in Black, Blue, or Red. SKU: POLCPGRP




Heated Steering Wheel Cover File this one under “Why didn’t I think of that?” Say goodbye to frozen fingers forever. A hand-warming steering wheel cover is the answer to every cold winter morning’s dreadful drive to work. Plug in and warm up in three minutes or less. SKU: GH1000


Rear View Mirror Camcorder You never know what will happen out there on the road. Hang this camcorder on your rear view mirror and capture every minute of your family road trips in Super HD detail. Wide-angled 140° lens picks up the action from shoulder to shoulder, from inside and outside your vehicle. Features include cycle recording, motion detection, IR night vision, anti-shake, sound recording power on/off. Built-in microphone and speaker. Supports up to 32GB SD card. SKU: SEDCHDM301




Ivation Projector Some movies were just meant to be seen on a big screen. Now you can enjoy your favorite films and bring beloved characters to life (size) right from your living room couch. Streams from tablets, laptops, camera, Android and iOS devices and more via HDMI/MHL, DLNA, USB, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. Available in Blue, Gray, Gold, Purple, Red, or Silver. 3.4” L x 1.3” W x 3.4” H; 7.4 oz. SKU: IVPJPROGRP


High-resolution 22MP Scanner/Digitizer Flipping through old photo albums with snapshots halffalling out and sorting through boxes full of age-worn pictures just isn’t the best way to walk down memory lane anymore. Speed-load adapters easily upload your favorite photos and make the scrapbooker in you or the historian in the family jump for joy. Talk about picture-perfect. SKU: JUMFS14MSP8


VHS-to-DVD Converter Capturing memories on home video was a staple of your childhood, and your children’s. But who has a VHS player anymore to relive those favorite moments? Convert your tapes to DVDs and enjoy a trip down memory lane whenever the mood strikes. Records VHS tape to DVD in 1080p HD picture. 17.2” W x 4” D x 10.3” H. 9.3 lbs SKU: ZV427FX4




App Controlled Robot with Camera Ever wish you could have your eyes and ears in two places at once? Keep tabs on what the kids are up to in the playroom, or pop into the kitchen to see what’s cooking with a portable camera that streams audio and video at the touch of a button—er, smartphone, naturally. Rechargeable battery lasts four hours. Robot supports Wi-Fi and stores your images on a flash drive, hard drive, or memory card. Compatible with Android software. SKU: BWAPB1


Wireless Audio Listener If your hearing just isn’t what it used to be—or the rest of the family can’t seem to understand what you mean by “it’s quiet time”—you’ll want to file this under “must have” and bid your days of trying to keep up with closed captions adieu. Wireless technology enhances audio from TV and other outputs to headset receiver. Includes microphone and mute button. Works with computers, smartphones, MP3 players, and other music systems. Easy to set up and control volume and sound quality. SKU: AHDH900




CLOTHING & ACCESORIES Stay safe from the elements, make the best first impression, and scream “style” every time you step out on the town or into the world with our selection of high-function, high-fashion wardrobe essentials and accessories. Clever cold-weather gear and practical storage for your valuables round out this collection of must-haves.

Fine Cherry-finish Watch Cabinet When they’re not glamming up your wrist, your collection of watches can still add a dash of elegance to your style. Let them shine 24/7 as an addition to your décor in a cherry cabinet with plenty of plush lining and room for all your valuables. SKU: 27279GRP Small $99.99 15” L x 9” D x 6” H – holds 12 watches Large $119.99 20” L x 12” D x 6” H – holds 24 watches

Insulated Heated Jacket Waterproof? Check. Windproof? Yep. Warm and cozy? You bet. This jacket rises to any occasion to keep you toasty. Go ahead—turn on all four (yes, FOUR) heating panels for six hours of added warmth. You can even charge your phone while you’re at it, right in your pocket. Bring it on, Old Man Winter. Available in sizes Small–2X-Large. Men’s SKU: H2CCRAMGRP






Bluetooth Headgear You know how a good song can warm you from the inside out? Metaphorically speaking, of course. But a hat with builtin Bluetooth speakers actually does double duty. Going for a cold-weather run never sounded so good. One size fits most. Headband SKU: BMHB




Heated Gloves On cold winter days, you can go from “just fine” to frostbitten in no time. These heated glove inserts will be there for you from the start of the tailgate through the fourth quarter, or from the trailhead to time for hot cocoa in the lodge. Available in sizes Small–2X-Large. Gloves SKU: VHBX928GRP


Glove liners SKU: VHBX923GRP


Heated Indoor/Outdoor Slippers File these under “how did I ever get along without them?” In the house, they’re the coziest slippers you’ve ever worn. Outside, they’re the comfiest cold cold-weather essential you never knew you needed—until now. Shoe sizes: Small (Women’s 5/6), Medium (Women’s 7/8, Men’s 6/7), Large (Women’s 9/10, Men’s 8/9), Extra Large (Women’s 11/12, Men’s 10/11), and 2X-Large (Men’s 12/13). Built-in lithium-ion battery runs for up to five hours. Available in Black or Gray. SKU: H2CBKSGRP




Multi-wear Shawls It’s a wrap! And a shawl, poncho, vest, and more. This versatile piece can be worn in more than 15 different ways, making it a fun and practical wardrobe accessory for every day or travel. Wrap it, cinch it, or drape it for a variety of daytime or evening styles that always look fresh. Machine washable. Fleece available in Black, Red, Ivory, or Gray. Rayon Jersey available in Black, Taupe, Ivory, or Gray. Short Rayon Jersey SKU: SD001GRP


Short Fleece SKU: SD002GRP


Long Rayon Jersey SKU: SD000GRP


RFID Blocking Wallet Nothing would put a damper on your vacation like a run-in with a pickpocket. But sneaky thieves don’t need to grab your wallet to steal your personal info anymore—not when they can hack into your identity with a scanner. Block them out with a wallet built like Fort Knox…except maybe not as bulky. Women’s, Gray SKU: RL166


Men’s, Black or Brown SKU: RL110GRP


Heated Insoles You pile on the layers before you head out to shovel the walk or take the kids sledding. But you can only fit so many pairs of socks beneath those boots, and it still isn’t always enough to keep you warm. Three pairs of thermal socks or one set of heated insoles? It’s a no-brainer. Now that’s addition by subtraction. SKU: AHTMGRP




TRAVEL Whether traveling is a necessary component of your profession or you’re constantly planning your family’s next overseas adventure, there are always components of life on the move that could be made easier. Store your personal items safely and stay comfy on your next flight with these travel essentials.

Grid-It® Slim Backpack You’ve spent weeks preparing your presentation and making travel arrangements. And making mental checklists. And trying to figure out how you’ll fit everything in your carry-on. We can’t help you nail the presentation (we know you’ll do great), but we can help you take the stress out of packing. Vertical pockets for your tablet, laptop, and accessories mean your work won’t even think about falling out of place. Holds laptop up to 15.6”. Depth: 3.5” SKU: MCP3401BK


ZipSak You love the size of your suitcase when it lets you cram one more pair of shoes in before you take a trip. But when you’re back home and it’s not in use, it’s nothing but a space-waster. The ZipSak fits everything you need to take with you, and fits itself anywhere when you need to store it away. Available in Black, Blue, Purple, or Red. 22” SKU: BG631122GRP


31” SKU: BG631131GRP


27” SKU: BG631127GRP


Multi-access Cabin Spinner You know that airplane passenger: the one who somehow disrupts an entire cabin full of travelers just to take out a tablet from the bag he’s jammed into the overhead compartment. Don’t be that guy. Get quick access to everything you need to get some work or reading done on your flight—without elbowing your neighbor in the ribs in the process. SKU: KT340





Only 5% of the world population has ever traveled by airplane.

Workbook Tote Organize everything and secure your laptop (up to 13”) in this sleek tote with luxurious interior lining. SKU: AVT2352GRP


High Density Nylon Weekender Duffle Pack for a weekend getaway in a snap. With an interior organizer and accessory pockets, heavy-duty zippers, ID tag, and adjustable shoulder strap, this 22” duffle holds everything you need for a mini-vacation. SKU: AVD2035GRP


High Density Nylon Four-piece Luggage Set Elegant and fully lined, this four-piece set lets you be ever-ready for your grand arrival. Includes 21”, 25”, 29” wheeled suitcases with locking handles and zippered front and accessory pockets; and 16” travel tote perfect for laptops up to 13”. SKU: AVL97GRP


Croco PU Two-piece Luggage Set The ultimate travel companions store all your essentials (and save some room for souvenirs). Two-piece set includes expandable, wheeled 21” upright and 17” duffle with adjustable strap. SKU: AVL982GRP


See all available colors and styles at Free shipping.



American Cowhide Leather Underseater You’ve been there: making a mad dash to cram your carry-on into an already packed-to-the-gills overhead bin, only to find someone else has beat you to the storage space. Skip the scramble—and be the perfect seatmate on any flight. Under-seat carry-on fits easily under virtually any coach-class seat and leaves plenty of room for feet. 14.5” W x 8” D x 12.25” H

SKU: K015BLK $219.99

Wide Mouth Cowhide 19” Duffle Perfect for everything from the weekend fishing trip to an international excursion, and you don’t have to sacrifice style or space. Pack smartly wherever your travels take you—even if your luggage is stuffed with jeans and tees. Do-it-all duffle’s wide mouth makes it a cinch to pack. Designed with microfiber lining, handy organizers, convenient carrying handles, and sturdy shoulder strap. Made to fit in overhead compartment. SKU: K1010TN


SkyRest Travel Pillow By plane, train, or automobile, traveling can take a toll on your body. Snooze comfortably through even the bumpiest flight, and it’ll feel like you made it to your destination in the blink of an eye. SKU: 99010




PETS From playful pups and kittens to calm and contemplative old-timers, the years you share with your pets are warm and wonderful: You give them a caring home, and they thank you with unconditional love. We’re excited to share new and innovative ways to comfort and entertain your pets, along with elegant solutions to contain their wild streaks. Equip your family to enjoy all the magic of pet parenthood.

Memory Foam Coil Pet Bed Your pets are members of your family. And you want your family to enjoy the very best rest they can. Give Rex a good and comfortable night’s sleep so he can continue to give you years of playful puppy love. Memory Coil technology promotes joint health, relieves arthritic pain and helps older dogs get in and out of bed with ease. Durable memory foam won’t break down, chip, or trap odors. Quilted bone top cover has hidden zipper for easy removal and washing. Chew resistant and 100% waterproof. Available in Fathom, Merlot, and Mocha.


SKU: BRDO000GRP Medium 34” L x 23” W x 5” H



Large X-Large 38” L x 30” W x 5” H 46” L x 30” W x 5” H



Expandable Pet Gate Hi there, Jack here. When my pet human Sam bought this gate for me, I didn’t understand what he was so excited about. But look at it! Sure blows that old plastic baby gate he used to prop in the doorway out of the water. It’s even got a gate so I can let Sam in my part of the house whenever I want. It’s so easy to set up and use, even a cat could do it. Furniture-grade wood makes the gate smooth and safe with no rough edges. Designed for easy setup in any 28-80-inch doorway. Extra wide feet and rubber padded base protect floors and paws. SKU: PPE101 Large - 30” H


SKU: PPE102 Medium - 22” H $159.99

Indoor Pet Ramp and Stairs Sooner or later, everyone can use a little help getting around—that includes your four-legged loved one too. Your puppy, small dog, or older pet with mobility issues likely has trouble reaching the sofa or other favorite napping spot. You don’t have to miss out on those cuddles when they can get up and down easily. Pine staircase has removable recessed rungs for added traction. Converts from ramp to stairs in seconds. Legs fold flat for storage. Supports dogs up to 130 lbs. Ramp: 40” L x 17.5” W x 19.25” D Stairs: 16” W x 12” D SKU: US66503


Interactive Wireless Pet Monitor Ever wonder what Spot is up to all day while you’re at work and the kids are at school? Ever leave the TV on so he doesn’t feel all alone at home? Meet the next generation of pet monitors that lets you keep an eye on your pup from wherever you are—and send him some love too. “Who’s a good boy???” Camera connects to home Wi-Fi network. Two-way audio streams through built-in microphone and speaker. Access features remotely on mobile device through free app. SKU: PC866679000006




End Table Kennel Jack here again. So when I finally convinced Sam to redecorate, he scored me this kennel—or as I like to call it, my pied-à-terre. It’s way nicer than those metal “crate” things I’ve seen around. It’s made of real furniture-grade wood, so it’s right at home next to the “nice couch.” (The one I’m not allowed to sit on.) When I’m feeling generous, I even let Sam rest his drink or book on the smooth-finished wood tabletop. You’d think it was really an end table, rather than a lounge for me! SKU: PPCRATEGRP Large - 36” L x 24” W x 27.3” H


Medium - 30” L x 21” W x 24” H


Configurable Pet Gate Whether you need to corral the pups in the kitchen during the day or keep them out of it while you’re getting dinner on the table, an elegant, freestanding, furniture-quality pet gate is on the money. No bulky plastic gates (that always fall down) required. 360° Gate with Door SKU: PP36GRP

360° Extension Kit SKU: PP36EXGRP

88” L x .75” W x 36” H $149.99

44” L x .75” W x 36” H $89.99

88” L x .75 W x 30” H $139.99

40.7 L x .75” W x 30” H $79.99

81.625” L x .75 W x 24” H $119.99

54” L x .75” W x 24” H $69.99 Support Feet SKU: PP33401F1 $24.99

Double Bolster Pet Bed You wouldn’t let a ratty, mismatched sofa sit in your living room. Why should Rex get away with it? Everyone can have a seat, and you don’t have to sacrifice your style. (Sorry, we can’t help you vacuum up the dog hair.) Available in Espresso and Smoke. SKU: BO664GRP Large - 42” W x 32” D x 16” H (outer); 31” W x 19” D (inner)


X-Large - 48” W x 38” D x 17” H (outer); 33” W x 25” D (inner)




TOYS Nothing captures the essence of childhood like toys. But the best toys do more than just unleash your child’s playful side. Kids can be kids with innovative toys that challenge their creativity and balance, while they fine-tune their artistic skills and explore the depths of their imaginations. We’ve curated a toy box full of ways to keep them moving, learning, and creating so you can feel good about sending your little ones to playtime for hours.

ToyMail It’s a given that your kids love their technology. Sometimes so much that you can’t get them off YOUR smartphone or laptop. They’ll hand it back over in no time when they start getting and receiving their own personalized messages from this friendly little animal pal that blows your tablet out of the water. You choose the grown-ups on the approved list for the phone app—grandma, grandpa, aunts, cousins, babysitters—and the talking Wi-Fi mailbox replays messages again and again in the familiar or silly voice you select. Choose from Bear, Deer, or Fox. Ages 3 and up. SKU: TMGRP




RC 31 MPH Cars These might be the fastest, coolest remote control cars you’ve ever—um, that is, your kids—have ever played with. Do you feel the need for speed? Speeds up to 31 mph. 2.4 GHz, 1:18 scale. 12 inches long. One 70-minute charge runs car for 15 minutes. Available in Copper Maxx and Red Fibre. Ages 14 and up. SKU: CA183GRP


RC Wall Climbing Car Give your kids something they can drive up a wall…other than you, for a change! This sure beats them taking a magic marker to the wallpaper. Lightweight but heavy-duty, gravity-defying remotecontrolled cars have a full range of motion: forward, reverse, left, right, and stop (with brake lights—nice touch), and they won’t break if they happen to fall. Requires 6 AA batteries (not included). Ages 8 and up. SKU: DGLAWRC01


Ride-on Luxury Cars You like to ride in style, so why shouldn’t your little ones? They’ll be the talk of the neighborhood when the other kids get a load of these wheels. Kid-sized cars look like the real thing in every way. Can carry up to 50 lbs. and travel up to 4 mph on rechargeable 6-volt battery. Connect an MP3 player; control car manually or remotely for up to one hour on a full charge. Ages 3 and up. Mercedes-Benz Mercedes-Benz Sports Coupe Luxury Sedan Red or Black White or Red SKU: GTCOUPEGRP SKU: GTSEDANGRP $219.99 $219.99


Racecar SKU: GT5066 $299.99


MiPosaur Transformers or Jurassic Park? Why make your little guys choose between them when they can have both? Futuristic meets prehistoric in the robotic dinosaur—and bonus, it packs mind-building games and technology so your kids can learn while they play. GestureSense technology allows you to control MiPosaur with your hand, his trackball, or the free app. Ages 8 and up. SKU: WW0890


Super Combat Helicopters Your junior fighter pilot will be the envy of the playground. He can launch an air mission, defend his country, and protect the world—and still make it home in time for dinner. Ages 14 and up. SKU: ODY9000


Cardiff Cruiser Skates They grow so fast, don’t they? Even if you can barely keep up with the kids’ changing shoe sizes, you want to give them everything they need to have fun, be active, and enjoy the great outdoors as a family. Adjustable skates attach to their shoes for instant wheels they can wear through every growth spurt from now till (gulp!) college. Adult Small, Blue (190 lb. limit) fits sizes Boys’ 2–Men’s 8 / Girls’ 2–Women’s 9 Adult Large, Blue (250 lb. limit) fits sizes Boys’ 4–Men’s 13 / Girls’ 5.5–Women’s 14 Youth, Lime or Strawberry (120 lb. limit) fits sizes Youth 12–Boys’ 5 / Youth 12–Girls’ 6 Youth Lime and Strawberry CSKLGRP



Adult Small or Large SKU: CSCLGRP $119.99


Drum Play Mat Music makes the world go ‘round. But a kid at the helm of a drum set in your family room can make you want to scramble for earplugs. Let your little one jam out, rock star-style, while you get to keep your sense of hearing. Ages 3 and up. SKU: SA64723 $59.99

Giant Piano Mat Can you see a giant playable piano keyboard and not think of the iconic movie scene? We can’t either. Tune into the timeless memory with a new generation and let your family step into a whole new kind of music experience. This is worth taking note of. Ages 3 and up. SKU: SA94723



A concert grand piano has 7,500 working parts including 230 strings, which create every note on the full orchestral scale.

Orbitwheels The roller rink hasn’t seen anything like this before. Your kid wants to be the next big thing in extreme sports. You want to avoid a skateboard-inflicted trip to the emergency room. Orbitwheels let you meet in the middle. Don’t forget the helmets! Watch them in action at Available in Red and Black or Green and Gray. Ages 10 and up. SKU: G205664424




Meccanoid Humanoid Robot Popular Science called it “the smartest DIY bot to ever spill out of a box.” And you thought personal robots only existed in sci-fi series and futuristic novels. You might as well change your family’s name to Jetson once you get ahold of this voice-recognizing, taskcompleting, interactive personal assistant. Meccanoid assembles to countless configurations. Control movements by manual arrangement, a smartphone app, or attach your phone and use mirror camera to give gesture commands. Ages 8 and up. 4‘ SKU: SP6024909 $399.99

2’ SKU: SP6024907 $179.99

Futuristic Racquetball Game Mom always said, “Don’t play ball in the house.” But she probably wouldn’t object to a futuristic ball of light—that won’t topple any vases or wreck the furniture. Includes base and two racquets. Requires 7 AA batteries (not included). Ages 6 and up. SKU: FO3032


Table Tennis Trainer Robot Go paddle to paddle with even the fiercest competitor. The secret to your game? Practice, practice, practice— whenever you want, wherever you want, even without a ping pong partner. No-wire design is easy to set up and transport. Holds 20 balls and easy-to-hit frequency delivers about 30 balls per minute. Requires four AA batteries (not included). 7” W x 12” H SKU: JIX1




STAR WARS™ Force Trainer II: Hologram Experience Now your Padawans can move holograms with just the power of their minds! They’ll get to re-enact famous Jedi challenges as they advance through 10 different levels of Force Training. The Jedi Order will be looking to recruit them in no time. Requires tablet to operate. Ages 8 and up. SKU: UM15204


Avengers™ Vision Does your little guy wish he could join his heroes and be an Avenger himself? Here’s your chance to make that dream come true. He can take down the enemy and rack up game-winning points, all without having to leave the back yard. Defend against robotic villain Ultron images projected inside the goggles for only the player to see. Stylized blaster defeats enemies and scores points—but points are lost if you strike a fellow Avenger, so aim carefully! Kid-oriented virtual reality includes cool sound effects and digital display. Ages 6 and up. SKU: FO3047


Teepee Tent Be the parent who throws the best sleepover parties in the neighborhood. Forget the standard tent in the backyard. Your kids’ party’s going Old West-style with a teepee that leaves plenty of room to tell ghost stories and pass around the s’mores. Over 5 feet tall. Available in Red or Blue. Ages 3 and up. SKU: HPTENTGRP




HOLIDAY It’s the season for spreading joy and cheer to all those around you. Whether you light up for classic décor or love the look of something a little more whimsical, our collection of decorative adornments will bring out the holiday spirit in everyone.


In 1494, 19-year-old Michelangelo was commissioned to sculpt a courtyard snowman for the ruler of Florence, Italy.

Glistening Pre-lit Snowman You know that warm feeling you get at Christmas time, despite the foot of snow covering your front lawn? Bring it to life with this festive 3D snowman and tip your—er, Mr. Snowman’s—hat to the holiday season. Suitable for indoor and outdoor use. 105 incandescent mini lights, 60” lead wire; stakes included. 36” L x 12” D x 48” H SKU: 482303


Bigfoot Holiday Yeti Ornaments Gingerbread men and tinsel are old news. Holiday decorations should be a chance to have fun and get a little silly. Deck the halls with quirk and humor this season!

SKU: GDTO158 Single Ornament $9.99 Set of 3 $19.99

Pre-lit Joy Indoor/Outdoor Christmas Trees – Set of Three As the Christmas Decorator-in-Chief of your home, you’re going to love these. Three times the holiday cheer, this set of pre-lit porch trees spell out J-O-Y for all the world—or, at least, your neighbors—to see. Each mini tree includes 85 tips, 35 mini incandescent lights, and is individually wired for easy spacing. Scrollwork-detailed resin pots with vellum paper inserts. SKU: 481777




STAR WARS™ Inflatable Darth Vader Let everyone know exactly where the Star Wars fans live this holiday. With a color-changing Death Star and brilliant kaleidoscope effect, there’s no “dark side” to this lawn décor. It’s a must-have piece for enthusiasts this year! Stakes, tether ropes, and inflation fan included. Easy to set up, inflates in seconds. 39” L x 51” W x 72” H © Lucasfilm Ltd. SKU: 505608


Giant Inflatable Color Changing Christmas Tree Be the hands-down favorite to win the neighborhood holiday decorating contest. Deck the halls—or the lawn, or your front steps—with an ornament sure to inspire holiday cheer in everyone on your block. Weather-resistant fabric, over 10 feet high, offers 12 enchanting light effects. Easily inflates when plugged into any standard outlet. Remote requires 2 AAA batteries (not included). SKU: 418442



A cozy Bluetooth headband for your BFF. A comfy travel pillow for your trusty assistant. A luxurious lounger for your pamper-worthy pooch. The perfect gift is just a page or two away. Alas, not all of us are blessed with the talent of choosing the perfect gift. That’s where SkyMall gift cards come in. They’re perfect for every occasion. Choose a gift amount between $25 and the-sky’s-the-limit, and your lucky recipient can select exactly what he or she can’t live without, thanks to thoughtful, generous you. Forgot someone’s birthday or graduation and need a gift in a hurry? Never fear. Get an e-gift card, and have it delivered in minutes. You’re so clever! There’s a holiday, birthday, wedding, and scores of other occasions looming in the near future. Be prepared to gift! Order at, or call 1-800-SKYMALL Minimum $25 No limit 2 Bergen Turnpike Ridgefield Park, NJ 07660

Free standard shipping on all SkyMall orders. Visit for terms and conditions. *Excludes Alaska, Hawaii, Guam, Puerto Rico, and U.S. Virgin Islands.




concierge / luxury stays

A Winter’s Tale in Maine


Take the train to the Brunswick Hotel and Tavern

now falling softly by the water. A roaring fire. nationally recognized restaurants such as Tao Yuan, whose A tree-lighting and skating on the Commons. celebrated chef has been nominated for a James Beard award. The warm glow of shop windows. We all have Take in one of the renowned dance or music performances at our storybook visions of the perfect winter Bowdoin, perhaps wander the galleries of the Bowdoin College getaway. What not everyone knows is that Museum of Art. Or get right into the thick of things with icethere’s a town in Maine where all these scenes are waitskating and cross-country skiing, both easily accessible from ing to be explored, and it’s only a train ride away. the Commons. Winter is a special time in Brunswick, Maine, one of And for those times when you simply want to enjoy the Smithsonian magazine’s “Best Small Towns in America.” Its season through a window, The Brunswick Hotel and Tavern is distinctive Mid-Coast Maine character combines pican ideal spot to sit by a warm fire and relax in a tasteclockwise turesque streets made for walking with shopping, fine fully rustic atmosphere. The Tavern serves Maine from top left: food and easy access to active pursuits. And there’s favorites and traditional dishes, crafted from locally Relaxing by the no better way to experience all that Brunswick has to sourced ingredients—paired with local beers—and fire, the lobby offer than a stay at The Brunswick Hotel and Tavern, is open breakfast, lunch and dinner, every day of the sitting area and a guest room. perfectly situated alongside historic Bowdoin College year. Want to get out of the kitchen this Thanksgiving and facing the Town Commons. Best of all, Amtrak’s or Christmas? Have your holiday dinner here. Downeaster service from Boston’s North Station pulls up right This Feb. 4–6, the hotel brings back its annual ice bar, to the back of the hotel—you can even book your room and which a local carver hews from a 1,000-plus-pound block of train together with the hotel’s “Train to Maine” package. ice. It’s a special winter event that features specialty cocktails, Once there, you can step out your door and into your own live music, hors d’oeuvres and plenty of camaraderie to keep winter story. Rediscover the joy of holiday shopping amid you warm. downtown’s abundance of independent retailers and artisans Those who know Brunswick, a coastal town with unique (and Freeport, home to L.L. Bean and countless outlet stores, Maine charm, call it “a town for all seasons.” At The Brunswick is just a 10-minute train ride away). Dive into the quality and Hotel and Tavern, you can discover for yourself why, in this diversity of Brunswick’s many dining options, which include storybook setting, winter is a favorite chapter.

The Brunswick Hotel and Tavern • 4 Noble St., Brunswick, Maine • 207-837-6565 • courtesy of the brunswick hotel and tavern

up to speed

N ews & Speci a l Offers from A mtr a k

landscapes, portraits and subject paintings that reflect her British PreRaphaelite training and Renaissance art influence. Nov. 7–Jan. 31, 2016. Delaware Art Museum, Wilmington. Holiday Adventures: The Historic Odessa Foundation celebrates the 150th anniversary of Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland by transforming the foundation’s WilsonWarner House (1769) into holiday vignettes inspired by the classic novel. The Historic Houses of Odessa will be open and on display throughout the holiday season. Nov. 11–Dec. 31. The Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra with Wynton Marsalis.

All That Jazz winter brings with it an array of events so diverse you’re

sure to find at least one that strikes your fancy. Take a historic house tour, join a tug of war for charity, dine out during Newport Restaurant Week, or see a play, like Steve Martin’s and Edie Brickell’s Bright Star at the Kennedy Center in Washington, D.C. Be sure to check out event websites for special rail fare discounts and other ways to save some cash. —compiled by shannon mckenna schmidt




Lantern Light Tours: Set on Christmas Eve in 1876, this play unfolds through five scenes around the Museum’s 19th-century maritime village. Visitors of all ages enjoy seasonal delights that include a horse-drawn carriage ride, a spirited holiday dance and the beautiful glow of lanterns that light the way. Mystic Seaport, Mystic. Nov. 27–Dec. 22.

Nemours Mansion & Gardens Holiday Tours: The 70-room mansion, which was built for Alfred I. du Pont at the beginning of the 20th century in the style of a Marie Antoinette château, is filled with marvelous antiques, incredible artwork, fine furniture, beautiful chandeliers and tapestries. Nemours is spectacular during the holiday season. Advance reservations are recommended. Nov. 7–Dec. 31.

Community Carol Sing: Visitors return year after year to participate in this popular holiday carol sing, which is led by choral director Jamie Spillane and backed by the Museum carolers and a brass quartet. Mystic Seaport, Mystic. Dec. 20.

Save 30 percent on the best available coach rail fare for one companion traveling in coach with a paid regular (full) fare adult. Valid for travel on the Northeast Regional service to Wilmington, Del. Valid for sale through Dec. 14, 2015, and for travel between Jan. 5 and Dec. 18, 2015. Reservations are exclusively available through See page 155 for restrictions.

“Poetry in Beauty: The Pre-Raphaelite Art of Marie Spartali Stillman”: This is the first retrospective of Victorian female artist Marie Spartali Stillman. The exhibition showcases

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X’s and O’s (A Football Love Story): As the season kicks into high gear, Center Stage offers a hard-hitting, ripped-from-the-headlines play about our love for the game. Based on interviews with players, their families and fans, X’s and O’s delves deep into questions about safety that are being asked across the country. Nov. 13–Dec. 20. Ellis Marsalis: This National Endowment of the Arts Jazz Master performs as part of the Reginald F. Lewis Museum’s 10th Anniversary Gala. Enjoy Marsalis’ trio in an intimate jazz lounge setting with hors d’oeuvres and dessert station. DJ, dance floor, live entertainment on

every museum floor. Period dress of the 1920s and ’30s is optional but encouraged. Tickets: $70–$80. Nov. 14. B&O’s Magical Holiday Express: There is no better place to be a child than at the B&O Railroad Museum. All aboard for a spectacular celebration devoted to trains of all sizes and shapes, holiday festivities, a winter wonderland of family fun and activities and a way to help a local charity this season. Baltimore. Nov. 21–Jan. 3, 2016. 410-7522490; Rodgers & Hammerstein’s The Sound of Music: A brand new production of The Sound of Music is coming to the Hippodrome Theatre. The beloved musical story of Maria and the Von Trapp family once again thrills audiences with its Tony-, Grammy- and Academy Award-winning Best Score. Dec. 8–13. Tickets: Ticketmaster 800-982-ARTS; Maritime Republic of Eastport’s Tug o’ War: Drawing on a decadesold rivalry, the annual charitable event features the longest tug-of-war over a body of water in the world, pitting downtown Annapolitans against the rebels of the mock-breakaway Maritime Republic of Eastport. Tugging begins promptly (more or less) at the crack o’ noon. Eastport & Annapolis City Dock. Nov. 7. Save 30 percent on the best available coach rail fare for one companion traveling with a paid regular (full) fare adult. Valid for sale through Dec. 14, 2015, and for travel between Jan. 5 and Dec. 18, 2015. Reservations are exclusively available at through For travel to Annapolis (BWI), visit See page 155 for restrictions. Frank Stewart

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Bright Nights at Forest Park: Drive through a holiday light display with horse-drawn wagon rides and family fun for all. Springfield. Nov. 25–Jan. 3, 2016.

Pennsylvania Conference for Women: See Jessica Alba at the Pennsylvania Conference for Women. The actress and entrepreneur launched the $1 billion Honest Company and joins Nobel Peace Prize winner Leymah Gbowee plus 150+ nationally recognized speakers at the largest women’s event in the tri-state area. Pennsylvania Convention Center, Philadelphia. Nov. 19.

Annual Gingerbread Competition and Exhibit: One of the region’s best-loved traditions takes place at the Springfield Science Museum. Nov. 27–Jan. 3, 2016.

Christmas at Blithewold: Come and admire the festive decorations. Blithewold Mansion, Gardens & Arboretum, Bristol. Nov. 27–Jan. 3, 2016. show/785 Christmas at the Newport Mansions: Spectacular decorations deck the halls of The Breakers, The Elms and Marble House. Nov. 21–Jan. 3, 2016.

VERMONT Yuletide at Storrowton: Storrowton Village Museum’s annual, free winter holiday festival. Music, activities, animals, ice sculpting, tree lighting, caroling and shopping in gift and Christmas shops. Eastern States Exposition, West Springfield. Dec. 5–6. Yuletide by Lantern Light: The glow of lantern light emanates from the windows of Storrowton Village Museum during this evening tour of its beautifully decorated buildings. Gift and Christmas shops are open during the event. Eastern States Exposition, West Springfield. 6–8 p.m. Dec. 9.

NEW YORK New York Botanical Garden Holiday Train Show: A must-see New York tradition where enchanting model trains zip through a display of 150 landmarks, each re-created with bark, leaves and other natural materials—all under the twinkling glow of the Haupt Conservatory. Nov. 21–Jan. 18, 2016. Big Band Holidays: The Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra with Wynton Marsalis swings in the most wonderful time of the year with arrangements of your holiday favorites. 8 p.m. Dec. 17–18; 2 p.m. and 8 p.m. Dec. 19.

A Longwood Christmas: Join us for the trees and traditions, the lights and festivities of “A Longwood Christmas.” Longwood Gardens, Kennett Square. Nov. 26–Jan. 10, 2016. Grand Review and Freedom Jubilee: Civil War re-enactors, living history performers, storytellers, heritage enthusiasts and cultural travelers gather for this event honoring African American Patriots of the Civil War. Harrisburg. Nov. 13–15. Save 30 percent on the best available coach rail fare for one companion traveling with a paid regular (full) fare adult. Valid for travel on the Northeast Regional and Keystone Service to Philadelphia. Valid for sale through Dec. 14, 2015, and for travel between Jan. 5 and Dec. 18, 2015. Reservations are exclusively available at through See below for restrictions.

RHODE ISLAND Newport Restaurant Week/Fall: Restaurants offer an array of creative menus: $16 for a three-course lunch and $35 for a three-course dinner. Newport and Bristol County. Nov. 6–15. discovernewport

November Wagon Ride Weekends: Take a horse-drawn wagon ride and enjoy the dairy farm, farmhouse and farm life exhibits. Billings Farm & Museum, Woodstock. Nov. 1–22. Coolidge Holiday Open House: The Coolidge Birthplace will be decorated as it would have been in the late 19th century. With holiday music, sleigh rides and more. President Calvin Coolidge State Historic Site, Plymouth. Dec. 5. historicsites.vermont. gov/directory/coolidge Wassail Weekend in Woodstock: Voted one of Vermont’s Top Ten Winter events, the term has its roots in Medieval England. Parades, theater, dining events and carolers’ songs of the season fill the air. Dec. 11–13. wassail.php

WASHINGTON, D.C. The Apple Family Cycle: Sorry and Regular Singing: Over meals at the family homestead, the tensions and compromises, affections and resentments of the Apple family’s lives play out against a rapidly changing America. By Richard Nelson. Studio Theatre. Through Dec. 13. 202-332-3300;

ZooLights at the National Zoo: More than 500,000 environmentally-friendly LED lights illuminate the paths of the Smithsonian’s National Zoo. This free family event takes place nightly Nov. 28–Jan. 1, 2016 (except Dec. 24, 25, 31). Bright Star: A new musical from Steve Martin and Edie Brickell debuts at the Kennedy Center. Dec. 2–Jan. 10, 2016. Lighting of the National Menorah: Sponsored by American Friends of Lubavitch, the ceremony takes place on the Ellipse behind the White House on the National Mall. With choral performances, free latkes and doughnuts. Tickets are free, but advanced registration is required. 4 p.m. Dec. 7. Terms and conditions: Blackout dates apply: Nov. 24–25 and Nov. 28–29. Advance reservations are required a minimum of three days prior to travel for all trains (including unreserved). Limited seating; seats may not be available on all trains at all times. Qualifying adult and discounted companion must travel together at all times and have tickets issued at the same time. All offers are valid for travel on the Northeast Regional service. The Pennsylvania offer also includes the Keystone Service. Travel on Acela Express is prohibited. Up to two children ages 2–12 may accompany each paid adult at half of the regular (full) adult rail fare. Other restrictions may apply. Fares subject to availability. Amtrak, Northeast Regional, Keystone Service and Acela Express are registered service marks of the National Railroad Passenger Corporation. • November/December 2015 • Arrıve


Station/Route Maps Car Rental

Accessible elevator

I-76 West 676 East

Arch Street

ClubAcela Mezzanine Level


to Downtown

29th Street

Short Term

to Capitol


30th Street


Car Rental

University City

Club Acela

Short Term

JFK Blvd. to Center City



Market Street

I-76 East to 95 South

Short Term


Port Authority Bus Terminal 42nd & 8th

West 33rd Street Above

PATH 33rd & 6th

West 33rd Street

Down to

8th Avenue Subway

Madison Square Garden

7th Avenue

8th Avenue

Down to Trains

2 Penn Plaza

Down to LIRR

Exit Exit up to Street

Exit up to Street

Down 2 Levels to Trains (Amtrak & NJ Transit)

West 31st Street

West 31st Street Above North


Downtown Crossing

Atlantic Ave. Car MBTA Rental

Financial District

1 South Station


Fed. Reserve Rowes Wharf

2 3 4 5

2 South Station

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Post Office



11 12

ClubAcela Mezzanine Level




Exit up to Street

Exit up to Street

NJ TRANSIT Concourse Down to Trains



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Exit up to Street

7th Avenue Subway


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1 Fail to catch, as a train 5 Yokel 9 “Be quiet!” 14 Aboard 15 About 30% of the Earth’s land 16 Chilled 17 Tank, mask, flippers, etc. 19 Camp craft 20 Bill at the bar 21 Coffee bar stack 22 Cut-and-dry places 23 “Say it ____ so!” 24 State crossed by Amtrak’s Capitol Limited 25 Oscar winner for “Jerry Maguire” 30 Water lily 31 Tibia or fibula 32 Rowing need 34 Leave out 35 Really, really old 37 Cowboy nickname 38 Pen name 39 Early bird’s breakfast 40 Flip choice 41 Harvest from many Finger Lakes vineyards 45 Goals

46 Symbols of sturdiness 47 Inconsistent 50 Arrive 51 Casserole bit 54 Island greeting 55 “Shrimp Company” seafood chain inspired by a Tom Hanks film 57 Did some tailoring 58 Cain’s brother 59 Pinnacle 60 Oracles 61 Richard of “Chicago” 62 Salty expanses down

1 The lion’s share 2 Machu Picchu resident 3 Ticket remnant 4 Blubber 5 Tempestuous 6 Comfortable with 7 Partial quality 8 Lobed organ 9 Sherlock Holmes’s vice 10 Comparable thing 11 Baja boy 12 Clickable image 13 Golfer’s pocketful 18 Rap sheet listing

22 Highly polished 23 Border on 24 Garbage truck output 25 Stand-up guy 26 Stop on Amtrak’s Lake Shore Limited 27 Michelle Robinson’s married name 28 Depp’s co-star in “The Tourist” 29 Train supporters 30 High hit 33 Hotel units: Abbr. 35 Cowboy greeting 36 Spheres 37 Easily duped people 39 Job seekers’ reading 40 “____ ride on the Reading” (Monopoly card) 42 Restraining rope 43 Yokel 44 Wander aimlessly 47 Pert talk 48 Ballerina’s bend 49 Move like the Blob 50 One of the Platonic solids 51 Dark purple color 52 Jane Austen novel 53 Gorillas and gibbons 55 Carry-on item found in the four longest Across answers 56 Heating choice

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puzzles by puzzability

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final stop

Why I Love …

The Mad River Valley Rocker Grace Potter has toured the world, but Vermont has influenced her most


race Potter developed a DIY attitude while growing up in Vermont’s Mad River Valley, where people make what they need. Take maple syrup. Potter taps the trees on her property and cooks up her own blend. “I don’t think the FDA would approve the stuff I make,” she says, laughing. Potter recently asked her cousin, who owns a maple farm, for help concocting a commercial version. Using his trees and help, Potter created a rich, amber potion, Midnight Gold. Like many interesting things that come from Vermont, it’s not sold in stores outside the state. Fortunately, Potter’s music has transcended state lines. Since releasing Midnight—her first album without her band, the Nocturnals—she has opened for the Rolling Stones and recorded a chart-topping duet, “Wild Child,” with Kenny Chesney. Potter, 32, has quickly evolved from singing lilting piano ballads to becoming an electric rock performer. “I realized I didn’t want to play music people can eat dinner to,” she says. “I want them to stand up and dance.” Midnight, which was released in August, brings serious energy, driven by Potter’s hearty voice and funky back beats. Growing up in Waitsfield, Vt., Potter always knew she wanted to make music.

Problem was, she didn’t know how to read the notes. She learned music by ear, passing the music-class flute tests by copying her classmates’ sound. “Once my teacher got hip to the fact about what I was doing, he said that I was musical and not a musician,” says Potter. “That made me want to master my craft.” She expanded her instrumental repertoire by playing piano along to soundtracks from movies like Ghostbusters and Jaws. Her first public performance took place at the local Round Barn Farm, where then-Gov. Howard Dean was in the house. Potter has since recorded five albums with the Nocturnals (who, she says, remain intact as she explores solo work). Vermont is still her home and, sometimes, her stage: In September she headlined Grand Point North, a Burlington music festival she co-founded in 2010. When Potter isn’t playing, she’s crafting. A carpenter who helped flip houses in high school, she brings her tool belt on tour. She recently transformed one of her house doors into a table. How many rock stars can say the same? Potter chalks up her entrepreneurial spirit to her roots in the Mad River Valley, where creative people inspire one another. “After traveling the world,” she says, “I am reminded about why Vermont shaped me more than anywhere else.” —Matt McCue

The best places to … Watch something cool

Stock up on Vermont beer

Shop for knickknacks

Buy local art

The Big Picture Theater and Café

Village Grocery

The Warren Store

Artisans’ Gallery

This convenience store stocks Vermont’s rare and coveted beers. “They are one of the only places that gets a consistent delivery of the Heady Topper beer every Tuesday,” says Potter. Fans, take note: The Heady Topper limit is one case. 4348 Main St., Waitsfield, Vt. 802-496-4477;

Potter first saw people dancing to her music during a performance on the porch of the store, a great stop for browsing. “There is a boutique upstairs with handcrafted leather and rugs,” says Potter. “Downstairs, you can pick up wine, beer and coffee.” 284 Main St., Warren, Vt. 802-496-3864;

Potter’s mother, Peggy, cofounded this 20-year-old shop. The gallery sells works by more than 150 Vermont artisans who produce everything from prints to sculptures to jewelry. 20 Bridge St., Waitsfield, Vt. 802-496-6256; vtartisans

“I worked there when it was called the Mad River Flick,” says Potter. “I was the popcorn girl and the ticket sales girl.” These days, patrons stock up on fresh maple doughnuts and watch a new film or see live music. 48 Carroll Road, Waitsfield, Vt. 802496-8994;

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from left: Courtesy of Big Hassle; the warren store

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