WOW magazine issue one 2018 by WOW air

e azin mag ISSUE ONE 2018

HEIĂ?A REED:

From 18th century English lady to Icelandic Femme Fatale

Plus: Tourist traps to avoid in London - and where to go instead. Y O U R F R E E C O P Y -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

Your journey to the Golden Circle starts at þrastalundur BREAKFAST, BRUNCH, LUNCH, DINNER Þrastalundur restaurant is located at the entrance of famous Golden Circle, just few kilometers away from Geysir, Kerið and Gullfoss. Restaurant is specialised for traditional Icelandic cuisine and offering great choice of wines, cocktails and homemade pastry. Our staff members are very passionate about providing the best service to make your experience unforgettable.

We are looking forward to welcome you in Þrastalundur restaurant.

Great place to see the northern lights!

Lovely Restaurant with a Stunning View! We stopped @ Thrastalundur on our way to Geysir (40 min away). Everything about this place was just magical - the food, the coffee, the view and the team. Highly recommend for anyone who wants to rest in a very picturesque scenery and enjoy truly Icelandic hospitality!

Food was so good, we came back twice!

Try our new Three Course Menu Each month we have a different three course menu put together by our chefs. This month we have Trout tartar, Lamb shank and Vanilla chocolate cheesecake.

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We really enjoyed eating at Þrastalundur Restaurant. We tried the lamb soup, fresh brook trout, and leg of lamb. It was a Sunday, and they had a lovely two-piece band playing. The staff really made us feel at home, and gave us some travel suggestions for the Golden Circle. We enjoyed it so much, we came back the next night for pizza, soup, and beer.

More than outstanding pizza Lovely restaurant situated in very seenic spot on a river bank. In summer one can see people fly fishing. The service was very good. Food was good and the atmosphere good. Will definately go there a.s.a.p. Old but renovated in good taste. Brunch yummie. Thank you. I loved it

GPS 64.0061511, 20.9737104 LOCATION

Where are we?

Gullfoss

Reykjavík

Þingvellir National Park

Hveragerði

Geysir

Þrastalundur

Selfoss

Þrastalundur is conveniently located on the famous Golden Circle route. It takes about 40 minutes to drive from Reykjavik to Þrastalundur and 10 minutes drive from Selfoss.

UNIQUE. TRADITIONAL. ICELANDIC.

OPEN: 09:00 – 22:00 For further information and assistance: Address: Þrastaslundur / Grímsnes / 801 Selfoss info@thrastalundur.is / Tel.: +354 779 6500 www.thrastalundur.is

www.facebook.com/thrastalundur www.instagram.com/thrastalundur_grimsnes/

SINCE 1928 Issue on 3

Directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great Geysir & Strokkur

litli Geysir hotel Experience a wonderful stay with a front row seat to the unique Geysir area.

Geysir Glima restaurant – Coffee house with freshly ground coffee – Sweet ice creams & cakes – Traditional Icelandic meat soup – Fish soup & vegetarian soup – Local food WWW.GEYSIRGLIMA.IS

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Beautiful Nature & Fun activities

Elegant Restaurants • Design Shop • Hotel • Souvenir Shop • Soup Vegan Restaurant • Snack Shop • Camping Area

Welcome to Geysir ONE OF THE GREATEST NATURAL ATTRACTIONS OF ICELAND

GEYSIR THE BEST PLACES TO PHOTOGRAPH ON THE PLANET POPPHOTO.COM

THE GEYSIR CENTER Directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great Geysir & Strokkur

GEYSIR CENTER • HAUKADALUR • WWW.GEYSIRCENTER.IS +354 480 6800 • GEYSIR @ GEYSIRCENTER.IS Issue on 5

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Pre-booking is required. Book online at bluelagoon.com

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WOW Power to the people

BRYNJA Icelandic Wool Sweater

kr. 19.990

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A letter from the editor

In this issue

Power to the people – Issue ONE 2018

12 A letter from the CEO 14 Experience is everything Check out these three recommended tours in Iceland. 18 Rauðafeldsgjá Most Icelandic places have a name that’s as old as the land’s settlement depicting how folklore and sagas meet landforms. 22 The Diamond Circle It’s time to experience something new and excit ing, and for that, you’ll need to travel to North Iceland and check out the Diamond Circle. 28 One beer to rule them all WOW air is having a WOW beer brewed to cele brate the annual Icelandic Beer Festival and the label is a work of art. 32 How your change could make a big change Phenomenal nature is the top reason for visit ing Iceland, but the Icelandic nature is fragile and could use a little help.

WOW DESTINATIONS 88 Exploring Tel Aviv in 48 hours This forward-thinking city still has a remarkably evident focus on its history. 90 Castle stays of Scotland Star in your own period drama by checking into one of these luxurious Scottish castles. 92 Scandinavia to a tee If you’re looking for a golf break away from the usual haunts why not try Denmark or Sweden?

Darkness, darkness everywhere

ust because the darkest days are behind us doesn’t mean it’s become light all of a sudden. Before the winter solstice the days were getting increasingly darker until finally, they weren’t. But what we’re left with are still the two darkest and coldest months in Iceland, January and February, and boy do they draaaaag on! It is the time of year when Icelanders really start to feel that vitamin-D deficiency. They feel a little tired and sluggish, and they just want to be warm and cozy, and sleep. We’re a bit like hibernating bears that way. But not to worry, the cold and dark bring something to the table too, like fascinating scenery covered in frost or snow, icebound waterfalls, endless sunsets and twilight hours that e nrapture the soul, and a healthy appreciation of our abundance of geothermal water and super-insulated houses. Whatever you do in Iceland, stay warm, don’t get lost and enjoy the sleeping nature.

Happy travels, Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Editor in chief zine maga

WOW MAGAZINE – HEIÐA REED: FROM 18TH CENTURY ENGLISH LADY TO ICELANDIC FEMME FATALE

Heiða Reed:

On the cover ACTRESS HEIÐA REED (POLDARK, STELLA BLÓMKVIST) IS ON THE COVER. The photo was shot by New York and London based photographer Mark Lim – marklimphotography.com. He is also the co-Editor in Chief/ Creative Director of Nicotine Magazine.

POWER TO THE PEOPLE – Issue one 2018

Plus: traps to avoid in London- and where to go instead. Y O U R F R E E C O P Y -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

Styling: Robyn Kotze. Hair: Maki Tanaka. Makeup: Elias Høve.

WOW magazine staff Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Design and layout: Ivan Burkni - ivanburkni@gmail.com Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman Contributing writers: Christopher Canal, Cindy-Lou Dale, Krista Connor, Bogi Bjarnason, Marvin Lee Dupree, Oli Lynch, Eva Leonard, Einar Páll Svavarsson, James Taylor, Andrew Marshall, Alexandra Pereira, Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir, Nadja Sayej and Svava Jónsdóttir

Attention advertisers! Will your company be in our next issue? Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen. He’s just that good! halli@wow.is

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36 “Girl. Woman. Actor. Idiot.” From captivating the audience of British television series Poldark to leading in Ice landic Nordic Noir series, Stella Blómkvist, Heiða Reed has established herself as one of Iceland’s most talented actresses. 42 The flying WOW family Learn all about our aircraft and their unusual registration names. 46 It’s a kind of magic Iceland’s isolation allowed us to retain many fabulous quirks such as magical staves. 50 The WOW word of advice Behold! We have the ultimate safety checklist for you so you can be safe while traveling in Iceland. 72 The ice caves of the Vatnajökull Region During the winter expert guides seek out ice caves in Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers where they take travelers and Icelanders alike to experience a magnificent sight. 76 WOW Designs Fashion designer Halldóra Sif Guðlaugsdóttir just released the first collection from her brand, Sif Benedicta.

ISSUE ONE 2018

From 18th century English lady to Icelandic Femme Fatale

96 Chicago speakeasies Relive the bygone days of gangsters and flappers at Chicago’s best speakeasy bars.

78 Music festival at the edge of the world The Eistnaflug metal festival is like no other in part because of the line-up and awesome environment but also because no idiots are allowed. 80 Packing made easy Check out these seven basic packing strategies for a more WOW traveling experience. 82 What the smell?! Must be the food of Thorri, our pagan “youreally-eat-that?” festival. 84 The U.S. Customs Declaration Form What is this? Why do I need to fill it out?

98 Eating Amsterdam Get to know the ever-changing city of Amsterdam by sampling some of these Dutch delights. 102 The pleasures of Paris The Le Marais neighborhood in Paris is a modest distance from the biggest tourist traps and offers a contrast between slow living and bustling city boulevards. 104 London tourist traps Find out which places to avoid in London and where to go. 108 Toronto’s Top 7 Must-See Parks What’s your preference? Toronto has parks for adventure-lovers, botanical nerds, artsy types and sports fanatics. 110 Top New York City bars and nightclubs One of the great things about New York City is its exciting variety of nightclubs and bars that cater to every mood and interest. 112 You want more? Where do you want to go? Check out our other WOW destinations. 116 This and that …mainly this. 121 What’s going on? …quite a lot, actually. 126 WOW horoscope What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed astrologist has the answer. 128 Bored on board? Solve these Sudokus. 130 The Traveling Inquisition We caught Icelandic fashion designer Vera Þórðardóttir selling hot dogs at the Chilly Katz hot dog bar in London.

P.S. Would you like your very own copy of WOW magazine? Take this one with you or contact us through magazine@wow.is and we’ll send you a printed copy. You can also check out WOW magazine online at wowair.com.

WOWAIR.COM © WOW air - Katrínartún 12 - 105 Reykjavík - Iceland Tel: 00 354 590 3020 - E-mail: magazine@wow.is Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit from publisher.

Keeping Iceland warm since 1926 Shop at 66north.com Issue on 11

A letter from the CEO Dear friends, WOW air happily welcomes a new year with continued growth, and we are truly excited about the times ahead. This year, we plan to add seven brand new aircraft to our fleet, straight from the assembly lines at Airbus, bringing our total fleet to twenty-four aircraft. Four of those will be the long-range A330neo which will be a game changer for us as they can carry more, go further and save a lot on fuel, which means we can offer more long-haul flights at even better prices, enabling more people to travel. It goes without saying that when you add seven aircraft, you need more employees, and this year WOW air plans on hiring ca. 400 new people to the WOW team, bringing our total to over 1,500 employees. In addition to expanding our fleet and team, we are also expanding our routes. This spring we will fly our inaugural flights to five new destinations in the US: Cincinnati, St. Louis, Detroit, Cleveland and Dallas. We will also double or triple our capacity to our most popular cities in Europe, offering 2-3 flights daily to London, Paris, Berlin, Copenhagen and Dublin. We have been busy creating new products in our booking system to help our guests select our extra services at a better price such as the WOW plus and WOW biz fares. Our latest product is the WOW comfy which offers you seat selection with extra legroom in addition to luggage and carry on. No matter what fare you choose, from basic to biz, you can also opt for a simple upgrade to the BigSeat, the most comfortable seat available on our flights, as we plan to add BigSeats onto all our aircraft this year. While we are very proud of what we have already achieved, the good news is that we are just getting started! On a global scale, WOW air is still very small, and we see opportunities everywhere both here in Iceland and abroad. We will continue to work hard on our mission to offer the lowest fares possible as we add even more exciting destinations to our network and give more people a chance to travel the world. Â Thank you for your continued support and trust. We look forward to seeing you again on other WOW air flights in the future. Sincerely, SkĂşli Mogensen Founder and CEO of WOW air

Experience the amazing LangjĂśkull glacier from the inside A rare, once in a lifetime opportunity

k Ă v a j k y e R d n a r e t n e c l l e f a s Ăş H m o r f s Daily departure

Find us:

#intotheglacier

www.intotheglacier.is Issue on 13

tours

Experience is everything When visiting Iceland or any other destination it always helps to be prepared. Most travelers study up on the city or country they’ll be going to, and decide where they want to go, and what they want to do and see once they get there.

ooking your tours and activities in advance is a great way to ensure that you’ll get the best price and not miss out on popular tours. Through WOW air’s booking engine and websites, or directly through tours.wowair.com, you can now find some of the best tours in Iceland all at one place as well as multiple choices for other WOW destinations on both sides of the Atlantic. Here are three tours and activities in Iceland you should get excited about this season.

Booking your tours and activities in advance is a great way to ensure that you’ll get the best price and not miss out on popular tours.

1. THE WONDERS OF REYKJANES Visit the dramatic coastlines, shipwrecks and small fishing villages of Reykjanes Peninsula and see the Reykjanes UNESCO Geopark, including the ON Geothermal Energy Exhibition, the geothermal areas Krýsuvík, and Gunnuhver. The Reykjanes Peninsula is one of Iceland’s most geologically active areas where you can see lava fields, fumaroles, solfataras, mud pots and hot springs and walk “The Bridge Between the Continents.”

Duration: 8 hours tours.wowair.com/tours/wonders-reykjanes

Gunnuhver mud pool and the Reykjanes Lighthouse. Photo: iStockphoto.com/Olga_Gavrilova.

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tours

Photo: iStockphoto.com/klikk

2. NORTHERN LIGHTS SUPER JEEP TOUR It’s the height of the Northern Lights season, and we recommend choosing the Northern Lights Super Jeep Tour for a more intimate and luxurious way of hunting for those elusive lights. An expert Northern Lights guide will pick you up at your hotel in a custom-built 4x4 super jeep, and while you search for the Northern Lights, you will travel through some of Iceland’s most spectacular natural sights on roads that the big buses can’t reach.

Visit the dramatic coastlines, shipwrecks and small fishing villages of Reykjanes Peninsula and see the Reykja nes UNESCO Geopark.

Duration: 4 hours tours.wowair.com/tours/northern-lights-explorer Photo: Courtesy of WakeUp Reykjavik

3. THE REYKJAVIK BAR CRAWL During the darkest month of winter what do Icelanders do? Well, some of them drink. Once you’ve seen Reykjanes Peninsula and the Northern Lights you might be in the mood for another kind of pick-me-up, and that’s what the Reykjavik Bar Crawl is for. Join a friendly local nightlife guide with a few travelers such as yourself for an evening worth remembering. Taste some unique cocktails, premium Icelandic beer, the Icelandic Black Death (Brennivín) and much more. It is the perfect way to explore the awesome Reykjavik nightlife scene before committing to a location. Considering the price of drinks in Reykjavik this tour pays for itself! tours.wowair.com

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Duration: 3-4 hours tours.wowair.com/tours/reykjavik-pub-crawl

Proudly Making Iceland a Hot Destination. We could talk forever about how interesting our clean energy production at Hellisheidi is. But, instead, let’s see what some of our guests at the Geothermal Exhibition have to say on TripAdvisor: “A must see activity”, “Bucket List”, “... interactive and inspiring”, “Now I’m impressed!”

ENNEMM / SÍA /

N M 76 5 3 5

We hope to welcome you too on your trip to Iceland at the most powerful exhibition in the world.

Only 20 min. drive from Reykjavík. A perfect stop on your way to or from the city.

The exhibition is open every day from 9:00-17:00. Please direct any inquiries to exhibition@on.is Tel: (+354) 591 2880 www.geothermalexhibition.com Issue on 17

Rauรฐfeldsgjรก

Where folklore and sagas meet landforms Through the centuries, all the way back to the settlement in the ninth century, Icelanders have been quite particular about naming landforms. Every mountain, all rivers, most creeks, many small cliffs, noticeable waterfalls, every bay and fjord, as well as canyons, have names. Text and photos: Einar Pรกll Svavarsson

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Sölvahamar (Sölvi’s Cliff) and RauðfeldsgjáIssue (Raudfeldur’s on Ravine).

ll in all, you will probably find thousands of names for Icelandic landforms, and as early as the 19th century, Icelanders started to register and research these names systematically. In 1969 the government even set up a particular institution under the administration of the National Museum, the place-naming institution of Iceland. It is almost a national obsession. FOLKLORE AND LANDFORMS, A FASCINATING COMBINATION Some of the oldest place namings can be traced back to the settlement, and many of our best-known locations appear in the sagas. Sites that are important in our history are linked to the landing places of the first settlers, such as Reykjavík, Vatnsfjörður, Hjörleifshöfði and Húsavík, to name a few. Later when Icelanders started to write about the settlement and create stories about the first settlers in the 12th century, the places and names were almost as important as the people. And often the early writings explained how a name came about. One such example is the Rauðfeldsgjá Ravine on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, a natural wonder that is also a popular attraction in that area. BÁRÐUR SNÆFELLSÁS, THE TROLL Among the first settlers in Iceland was a half man/half-troll named Bárður Dumbsson. Bárður came to Iceland from Norway, accomp anied by his second wife, nine daughters, and his half-brother Þorkell and his family. Þorkell had two sons, Sölvi and Rauðfeldur. They landed their ships at Djúpalónssandur and Dritvík and held mass in a cave at a large rock they called Tröllakirkja (Troll Church). All the places named by the early settlers still bear the same names; sites that are popular tourist attractions today. They also traveled the whole area around the western part of Snæfellsnes Peninsula and eventually built their homes and farms around Snæfellsjökull Glacier. From this settlement comes one of the most amazing stories linked to the Rauðfeldsgjá Ravine.

Rauðfeldsgjá Ravine.

Some of the oldest place namings can be traced back to the settlement, and many of our best-known locations appear in the sagas.

In many instances, the places were named more than thousand years ago, and the names have been carried forward through the folklore and stories told and written since the 12th century.

CHILD’S GAME TURNED FAMILY TRAGEDY The story is told in the saga Bárðarsaga Snæ fellsás. The cousins and daughters of Bárður Dumbsson and the sons of his half-brother, Þorkell Rauðfeldsson, at the time all in their early adolescence, were playing by a creek near Hellnar and Arnarstapi. It was the middle of winter, and as the game progressed, it moved down the river to the shore. At this time the mouth of Faxaflói Bay was packed with icebergs. Apparently, Rauðfeldur, one of Þor kells sons, threw Helga, the oldest daughter of Bárður, on an iceberg and pushed it from the shore. Here, we must remember that all of them were trolls, giants, or half-trolls, so the games and fights were quite vicious. To make matters worse, a strong wind came from the mountains to the shore and pushed the iceberg and Helga farther from the bay out to the open ocean. Trapped in this ordeal, Helga remained on the iceberg that quickly drifted towards the west, all the way to Greenland. After seven days, she reached ashore on the Brattahlíð Slope in Eiriksfjörður Fjord, where she met Eiríkur (Eric) the Red and his group of

settlers. Helga stayed with them for a while and got into a relationship with a man called Beard. From a poem that she wrote in Greenland, which is a part of the saga Bárðarsaga Snæfellsás, it is apparent that Helga missed Iceland and Snæfellsnes Peninsula, as she mentions places like Lóndrangar and Dritvík. THE WRATH OF BÁRÐUR SNÆFELLSÁS When the other daughters came home and told their father Bárður about his oldest daughter’s disappearance, he became outraged and ran to Arnarstapi, where his brother Þorkell lived. At that time, Þorkell was not home, and Bárður rushed into the house and grabbed the two brothers, Rauðfeldur and Sölvi. From Arnarstapi, he walked towards the glacier with the brothers under each arm and stopped on a high cliff that was split by a narrow ravine. Blinded by anger and sadness caused by the loss of his oldest daughter, he threw Sölvi over the cliff, where the twelve-year-old boy was smashed on the rocks below; then he took Rauðfeldur and threw him into the ravine, where the young boy died like his brother. Today the cliff is known as Sölvi’s Cliff (Sölvahamar), and the ravine is known as Raudfeldurs Ravine (Rauðfeldsgjá). Despite the dark tale, it’s a place you should not miss if you plan to drive across the magnificent Snæfellsnes Peninsula. THE LONG LIVING MYTH OF BÁRÐUR SNÆFELLSÁS Although this story is one of the most amazing tales about the naming of places in Ice land, there are also many other interesting stories of similar kinds. In many instances, the places were named more than thousand years ago, and the names have been carried forward through the folklore and stories told and written since the 12th century. After this terrible incident, Bárður moved with his family to an ice cave on the edge of the Snæfellsjökull Glacier. Throughout the centuries and to this day people have often felt his presence, and some believe he still lives somewhere in the glacier’s icecap. Helga, on the other hand, never reunited with her family although she did return to Iceland. She is said to have wandered around the island, ill-tempered and disturbed.

About the author Einar Páll Svavarsson is a political scientist turned photographer and writer with decades of interest and experience traveling in Iceland. Einar is the owner and creator of one of the largest information websites about Iceland—Hit Iceland. For more see hiticeland.com Lóndrangar.

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A statue of half-troll Bárður Snæfellsás on Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

RE04

Why not buy a tour with us on board this flight? – Just ask the cabin crew.

BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík •

BUY ON BOARD

The Golden Circle

SRE74

BUY ON BOARD

The Golden Circle & Fontana Wellness

RE15

BUY ON BOARD

South Shore Adventure

+354 580 5400 • main@re.is • www.flybus.is • www.re.is

BUY ON BOARD

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION on our tours and services please consult our brochure located in the seat pocket in front of you.

Issue on 21

Sucking in a deep breath, I step off the path onto the spongy ground, and suddenly Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m on Mars. The dry, red soil stretches before me, interrupted by boiling mud pots bubbling away and steam surging forth from odd little mounds protruding from the terrain. An impressive spectrum of colors spirals out next to these openings in the earthâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;minerals and chemicals combining to hint at a strange power that churns just below the surface. by James Taylor Photos: iStockphoto.com 22 WOW Power to the people

Issue on 23

can’t hold my breath any longer. I give in and take in a gulp of air. With it comes a strong rancid smell that surges into my mouth and nostrils. The malevo lent stench of rotten eggs wafts over and engulfs this arid wasteland, which doesn’t feel like Earth at all—a feeling enhanced when I spy my friends Ben and Michelle bouncing around slowly, pretending to be astronauts. The smell must have gotten to their brains.

ICELAND’S NORTH VOLCANIC ZONE

The lava field here is evidence of the eruptive power latent within the Krafla Caldera, with the most recent eruptive period between 1975 and 1984 that cover ed the remnants from past eruptions with a new layer of lava. No cone-shap ed volcano holds dominion over the area, having collapsed long ago to form the caldera, but rather volcanic activity is fed through a series of fissures stretching from north to south, fueled by a large magma chamber below. During eruptions, the fissures shift in the earth and cause lava to spurt out like a fountain. It’s not surprising to learn that Icelandic folklore considers Krafla a portal to hell.

It’s a brisk summer’s morning in the geothermal region called Hverir, and the first of three days that my friends and I will be spending on the Diamond Circle. The 260 km long circuit is Northern Iceland’s answer to the South’s popular Golden Circle, and thanks to its location just past Akureyri and over 6 hours’ drive from Reykjavik, it’s missing the considerable number of visitors its southern counterpart is seeing.

Further on is Víti, the largest of volcanic craters in the area that has filled with a milky blue water. The rain that has started to fall sends out ripples on the otherwise still surface, cutting through mists of steam that are drifting up from the copper-colored hills of the crater. I suppress a shiver; I wouldn’t be surprised to see something emerge from the opaque water.

Like Þingvellir, which lay within the Golden Circle, the Diamond Circle perches on the edge of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, but that’s where the similarities between the two areas end. Sitting within Iceland’s North Volcanic Zone, furious energy seething through the millennia has molded the landscape with eruptions, lava flows, earthquakes and glacial floods making the Diamond Circle a completely different beast.

EUROPE’S MOST POWERFUL WATERFALL

LEIRHNJÚKUR LAVA FIELD On our first night, my friends and I camp in Húsavík, a peaceful town that serves as a bustling seaport during the day. The only real bastion of civilization on the route, Húsavík lays claim to the title of Iceland’s capital of whale watching. The season is in full swing, and tomorrow morning most visitors will descend on the docks to be whisked away into the waters of the mighty North Atlantic, but we instead rise early to hit the road, driving past the shores of Lake Mývatn on our way into the Krafla Volcanic Caldera. Our destination is Leirhnjúkur Lava Field, which is a small part within the caldera. A walk around the area reveals electric blue pools of water sitting silently in craters and steam rising from chaotic folds of blackened lava beside large fiss ures that cut through the earth—gaping wounds that lead into blackness. In places the lava is still smoking, we follow the designated paths to keep from melting the soles of our shoes.

“The north is what people see when they picture Iceland in their minds,” says our Icelandic friend Katla, as we set up camp near the shores of Lake Mývatn for our second night. Her blonde hair is done in braids, and she’s bundled up in a creamy white woolen sweater, the Icelandic lopapeysa. Excited that we’re going to be staying at Ásbyrgi Canyon the next night, she tells us it’s her favorite place in the country. “I’ve heard that it’s the capital of the elves,” she says with a sly grin, but denies believing in the hidden folk like so many Icelanders apparently do. The scope of the landscapes around the Diamond Circle is astonishing, and one that inspires belief in magic. Aside from the volcanic eruptions in the area, eruptions also occurred underneath the nearby Vatnajökull Glacier, releasing immense and powerful glacial floods along the rivers. At 206 km, Jökulsá á Fjöll um is Iceland’s second longest river, streaming out from beneath the glacier and through Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon towards the north coast. For thousands of years through explosive flooding it carved out the bedrock, and in some places, the canyon is half a kilometer wide and 100 meters deep. It’s hard to imagine such a force; that is until you come across Europe’s most powerful waterfall, Dettifoss. We find ourselves in the parking area to the falls—menacing grey clouds hang ing overhead. As we navigate through a labyrinth of jagged rocks, a low rumble of water roaring over a cliff that accompanies us turns into an explosion of noise as we emerge at the edge of the canyon, slipping on the rocks underfoot

The season is in full swing, and tomorrow morning most visitors will descend on the docks to be whisked away into the waters of the mighty North Atlantic, but we instead rise early to hit the road, driving past the shores of Lake Mývatn on our way into the Krafla Volcanic Caldera. Krafla Caldera.

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BREYTTUR TOLLKVÓTI OG MEIRI SVEIGJANLEIKI

DUTY FREE ALLOWANCES IN ARRIVAL STORE

6 1

einingar og þú raðar þeim saman eins og þú vilt. units of alcohol, any way you like it. eining = 25 cl af sterku áfengi eða 75 cl af léttvíni og léttum líkjörum eða 3 l af bjór, síder eða gosblöndum. unit = 25 cl strong spirits or 75 cl wine and aperitif or 3 l beer, cider and alcopop.

FYLLA TOLLKVÓTANN MEÐ EINUM VÖRUFLOKKI? ALL YOUR DUTY FREE ALLOWANCES FROM ONE CATEGORY? STERKT ÁFENGI SPIRITS 22—55%

LÉTTVÍN OG LÍKJÖRAR WINE AND APERITIF <22%

BJÓR, SÍDER OG GOSBLÖNDUR BEER, CIDER AND ALCOPOP

6 einingar/units – 1,5 l

6 einingar/units — 4,5 l (6 flöskur/bottles 75 cl)

6 einingar/units — 18 l (36 dósir/cans 50 cl)

TILLÖGUR AÐ SAMSETNINGUM MIX & MATCH SUGGESTIONS STERKT ÁFENGI

BJÓR, SÍDER OG GOSBLÖNDUR

SPIRITS 22—55% 1 FLASKA 1 BOTTLE

4 einingar/units — 1 l

BEER, CIDER AND ALCOPOP

STERKT ÁFENGI

4 einingar/units — 1 l

WINE AND APERITIF <22%

LÉTTVÍN OG LÉTTIR LÍKJÖRAR WINE AND APERITIF <22% T.D. 3 FLÖSKUR E.G. 3 BOTTLES

3 einingar/units — 75 cl

2 einingar/units — 50 cl

LÉTTVÍN OG LÉTTIR LÍKJÖRAR

SPIRITS 22—55% 1 FLASKA 1 BOTTLE

12 DÓSIR 12 CANS

T.D. 2 FLÖSKUR E.G. 2 BOTTLES

2 einingar/units — 75 cl

BJÓR, SÍDER OG GOSBLÖNDUR BEER, CIDER AND ALCOPOP

18 DÓSIR 18 CANS

3 einingar/units — 50 cl Issue on 25

Leirhnjukar Lava Field.

slick with moisture. Amber-stained water churns over the falls, swirling and convulsing before plummeting down 44 meters and disappearing into an inter minable shroud of mist, cloaking the river below in mystery. No wonder Ridley Scott chose this location for the opening scene of his movie, Prometheus.

Other things to see and do on the Diamond Circle

As we gradually get soaked thanks to the spray from the falls drifting up onto the western edge of the canyon, we stand to admire the waterfall for as long as we can. Shivering, we cast jealous glances at the dry people crowded on the eastern side before letting out a small cheer as it starts to rain anyways. We leave again for the car park, and after the 30-minute hike we’re soon back in the car and turning north to get to Ásbyrgi Canyon for the night.

Godafoss: You’ll find this majestic waterfall, known as Waterfall of the Gods, on your way between Akureyri and Lake Myvatn.

ÁSBYRGI CANYON: SLEIPNIR’S FOOTPRINT

The Myvatn Nature Baths: Less crowded than the better known Blue Lagoon this spot is ideal for a relaxing soak in the region’s geothermal waters.

The road quickly turns into a bouncing nightmare of mud as heavy rain sets in. Giant potholes are peppered over the road, and it’s a painful slog across what looked like the shortest route to Ásbyrgi. We hold our breath as we squeeze past cars struggling back the opposite direction, exchanging glances of horror through the windshields, and wince as large bangs ring out over the rain when our wheels careen into large holes. For an all-too-brief moment, we turn onto a new road being built that is blissfully smooth, large shadows in the mist emerg ing as trucks and bulldozers, but all too soon we find ourselves back among the potholes of the old road. It’s no small miracle when we shoot out the other side without a flat tire, what feels like days later, with Ásbyrgi only a few minutes away along a gloriously paved road.

Hljóðaklettar: Echo Rocks are a cluster of huge basalt rock formations by Jökulsá á Fjöllum glacial river.

Like the Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon, Ásbyrgi was created by a bursting glacial flood, but now its 100-meter tall walls protect and keep hidden a verdant green forest and plain at the base of the canyon. Its giant horse-shoe-shaped imprint in the earth lends some merit to another theory behind its creation; Norse God Odin’s 8-legged horse, Sleipnir, accidentally stepped down from the heavens and left his imprint. Whatever the case, Ásbyrgi is truly a land of gods, elves and magic.

Tjörnes Peninsula: From April until Mid-August this peninsula is home to large colonies of puffins but the area is also known for its layers of fossil shells.

Walking the trails through the woods at the base of the canyon, we come out upon a beautiful pond nestled against the sheer cliffs, green moss floating still on the water. Ducks dive underneath in search of food as birds careen overhead, specks of white against the sheer canyon walls. We follow the path around to a staircase leading upwards to some small lookouts nestled against the cliffside, affording stunning vistas of the entire canyon. We can see where the cliff that cleaves Ásbyrgi in two, seemingly small in the distance, charges up from the ground. The sun appears for the first time in days from behind the clouds, bathing the canyon in the golden twilight haze of Icelandic summers. As its setting rays light up and illuminate a thousand tiny details in the canyon walls, they also remind me for the first time in days that I’m here on Earth and not another planet after all. But maybe Iceland’s Diamond Circle is as close as I can get… there’s some magic here, and I could think of no better place to be spending my last night than among the elves.

WOW Power to the people

Dimmuborgir: Part of the Lake Myvatn experience, Dimmuborgir (The Dark Citadels or Dark Castles) are unusually shaped rock formations in the Dimmuborgir Lava Field. You will have to go under water off the coast of Mexico to find natural sculptures similar to these.

Make sure you get your very own unique experience in Iceland. Get off the beaten track and try the Diamond Circle. www.diamondcircle.is

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The Icelandic Beer Festival

E A R LY B I R D C AT C H E S After their time in Iceland, Dan and Sarah arrive early to the airport so they can enjoy the last hours there before continuing their journey.

GIVE YOUR SELF MORE TIME TO SHOP

W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S

WOW Power to the people

Arrive early at Keflavík Airport and we will greet you with open arms. Check in up to 2 ½ hours before your flight so you can enjoy your last moments in Iceland. We offer unlimited free Wi-Fi, many charging stations and a range of shops and restaurants, so you can embrace the last drops of Icelandic taste and feel — and of course Tax and Duty Free.

One beer

to rule them all The annual Icelandic Beer Festival will be held from February 22-24 for the 7th time, celebrating the legalization of beer in Iceland. “Wasn’t beer drunk in Iceland long ago?” you might ask. Indeed it was, but for 74 years it was banned until finally, on March 1, 1989, the spell of prohibition was lifted. Hence, we had a right to party. .

very year brewers from Iceland and across the world come together to celebrate beer and introduce their products. This year the Icelandic Beer Festival will welcome brew eries such as Other Half, Aslin Beer Co., Brothers Brewery, Collective Arts Brewing, To Øl, Voodoo Brewing Co., Cycle Brewing, Bokkereyder and Lady Brewery to name a few. Beer will be tasted and enjoyed amid live music and entertainment from some of Iceland’s leading artists.

MORE TIME FOR SHOPPING They use their time for tax free shopping at the airport before catching their flight back home.

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The Icelandic Beer Festival

Odee’s artwork for the WOW beer is called “I’m in Paradise.” “The inspiration behind it is that voyage home when you’ve been traveling abroad.

THE WOW BEER WOW air is a proud sponsor of this event and to add some fun into the sponsorship, we decided to make us a WOW beer. The beer is a hoppy pilsner brewed by renowned Danish brewing company To Øl, a nomad brewery that defies the hundred years old brewery’s established recipes, creating contemporary beers that are potent and packed with flavor and character. We intend to give guests at the Icelandic Beer Festival a taste of the brew as well as our guests in the air around the middle of February. UNIQUE DESIGN To make the WOW beer, even more, WOW we looked to Icelandic artist Odee (aka Oddur Eysteinn Friðriksson) whose digital collage art has garnered a lot of worldwide attention. Odee mostly works with digital collage, cre ating what he calls “Visual Mashup Art” and he agreed to design the label for the WOW beer. “I’ve collaborated on a few products before, but I’m very choosy in picking my projects and need to have a lot of creative freedom to enjoy the work,” he states when asked if he did this kind of collaboration often. Odee’s artwork for the WOW beer is called “I’m in Para dise.” “The inspiration behind it is that voyage home when you’ve been traveling abroad. You’re coming back from a journey and returning to the peace and quiet of home which is an amazing feeling. In this case, it’s a WOW air flight, that’s welcoming us abroad and taking us home. This work also has a lot of contrasts, something I like playing with in my art. There’s a clear shift in the style from left to right. I also use a lot from my own life and experiences at the time of creating the work, so you’ll find clues about me and my life in my art, relating to the period when they were created,” says Odee.

WOW Power to the people

WOW air is a proud sponsor of this event and to add some fun into the sponsorship, we decided to make us a WOW beer.

BEER DRINKING WITH DALI Is Odee himself a beer enthusiast? “To me, beer is a wonderful and re freshing beverage, especially in the summer. I like tasting beer, particul arly at restaurants when they give you a tasting pallet with a few types of beer that go with the food.” What artist living or dead would you most want to hang out with over a cold beer? “Salvador Dali is the one who first pops up in my mind. I think it would be a lot of fun to get drunk with him, record a bunch of funky Snapchat videos and f**k around.” GRAND ART The original artwork by Odee is about 2 meters long and 80 cm high. “I made it so that it could be printed much larger, 5-6 meters if one were so inclined,” he says. Odee creates his art using Photoshop and Illustrator and then sends his artwork digitally to New York where they are infused on an aluminum frame and coated with a protective varnish. “This gives them a glasslike surface with bright colors and high definition.” Odee’s artwork has now been made into an adhesive label for the WOW beer, creating a unique product. An aluminum version of the artwork will hopefully adorn the walls of WOW air’s headquarters in the near future.

Icelandic wool

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Leave something for the Icelandic nature

HOW YOUR CHANGE COULD MAKE A BIG CHANGE Phenomenal nature is the top reason for visiting Iceland but the Icelandic n ature is fragile and could use a little help. For this reason, WOW air wants to offer you the chance to give back to nature by donating directly to Landvernd, an organization dedicated to protecting and restoring Icelandic nature. Photos: Courtesy of Kristján Ingi Einarsson – www.kristjaningi.is

WOW Power to the people

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After most trips to foreign lands we usually come back with a few coins or even bills in a currency that we can’t use at home. Some save it but then forget it on their next trip. Others might give it to their kids to play with or fool a bus driver or two. We’d like to offer you another option: Donate it toward a great cause. HOW CAN I HELP? In the seat pocket in front of you, there’s an envelope where you can leave any foreign change or other leftover currency that you’d like to contribute. Your donations will be sent directly to Landvernd, the Icelandic Environment Association, who will use the

WOW Power to the people

WOW air is simply the means of transportation. The donations come from you, our guests, and go straight to Landvernd where they will be put to good use.

funds to support its efforts to safeguard and protect Icelandic nature. In particular, they will be used to enhance the campaign for a national park in the Central Highland of Iceland, to develop a new volunteering program in soil and land restoration of degraded birch woodlands, and in efforts to influence policy and decision making relating to the environment. WOW air is simply the means of tran sportation. The donations come from you, our guests, and go straight to Landvernd where they will be put to good use. WOW air has promised to match all donations to double the amount sent to Landvernd. Let’s all help Landvernd make sure that

Discount for your journey The Arion Currency Card is a better way to pay in Iceland, providing you with a wide range of discounts all around the country as well as a SIM card and Icelandic mobile number for your phone. · Great discounts on popular excursions, in gift shops and at selected restaurants, fashion shops, hotels etc. · Save money – You don‘t have to pay international card transaction fees · No need to worry about the currency rate · No need to carry Icelandic krónur in your wallet · Use it everywhere – The Currency Card is accepted in Iceland and internationally Get your Currency Card at Arion Bank in Keflavík Airport, or the next Arion Bank branch. Currencycard.is

Get your Currency Card at the next Arion Bank branch.

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Icelandic nature will still be as incredible when our grandkids come to visit.

PROTECTING ONE OF THE LARGEST UNTAMED WILDERNESSES IN EUROPE

WHAT IS LANDVERND? Landvernd is a non-profit environmental and nature conservation organization established in 1969. The main goals of Landvernd are to protect Iceland’s nature and environment, restore degraded environments and promote sustainability in Iceland among residents and visitors alike. This is done through education, by influencing lawmaking and decision making and by taking action. Since people have become more aware of the danger to nature, in the last five years Landvernd has grown tenfold and now has about 5,000 members.

Photographer Kristján Ingi Einarsson was so inspired by this project he decided to let us use his gorgeous photographs for this article in addition to personally donating 5% of the sales from his latest photography book Unique Iceland to Landvernd. Big thanks from all of us to Kristján Ingi!

Landvernd’s biggest conservation goal at the moment is the establishment of a national park in the Central Highland of Iceland. The Central Highland is one of Iceland’s greatest treasures, containing many active volcanoes, glaciers, voluminous rivers and waterfalls, colorful hot springs and mud pools, vast lava fields and broad expanses of black sand, all contrasted with oases of vibrant but vulnerable vegetation. Such an amazing collection of natural jewels is rare in the world mainly because such vast, unpopulated areas where nature alone rules, are disappearing. “In our opinion,

Icelanders are in the enviable position of still being able to stand guard over this precious treasure and protect the Central Highland for future generations. Opinion polls show that over 60% of Icelanders support the establishment of a national park there and only about 12% are against it,” says Guðmundur. Landvernd’s campaign involves extensive lobbying for a national park among local governments, political parties, various stakeholders and the society at large. You can see short videos of the stunning Highlands and sign their petition online at www.halendid.is. Thank you for your contribution toward protecting Icelandic nature. Now get out there and enjoy it!

Read more about Landvernd and its efforts to protect Icelandic nature by visiting their website, www.landvernd.is

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W E L C O M E

O N

B O A R D !

Elevate your encounter with Iceland! Amazing helicopter tours around Iceland for individuals or groups. You can choose from a 20 minutes city sightseeing tour up to a whole day journey and everything in between. AirTaxi! We are often available on short notice! Your wish is our command! The fleet is made up of the most modern and meticulously maintained helicopters on the market. The pilots are trained to the highest standards, experienced, friendly, multi-lingual individuals with great knowledge of Iceland’s spectacular nature. They will make your journey unforgettable. Safety and comfort of our customers is always our main priority. • We operate from Reykjavik (city) Airport. • We offer free transport services within Reykjavik city area in connection with our flights. • We can, on the other hand, arrange for a pick up and/or drop off from and to just about anywhere in the country. • You can either pick one of our tours or simply design your own. • We are flexible.

Our service team is on duty 24/7 and will happily assist you at any time. Check out our tours and prices on our website. E-mail to info@rehe.is or call (+354) 589 1000 www.reykjavikhelicopters.com

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Stella herself is a bit of a loner, a rogue lawyer that works completely on her own for her own benefitsâ&#x20AC;? 38

WOW Power to the people

Heida Reed

Girl. Woman. Actor.Idiot

“Stella is badass but also a bit of an asshole,” smiles Heiða Reed. “She doesn’t give a damn what others think which is the exact opposite of Elizabeth in Poldark.” by Cristopher Kanal Photos of Heiða as Stella Blómkvist by Saga Sig, courtesy of Sagafilm and as Elizabeth Warleggan in Poldark by Robert Viglasky ©Mammoth Screen Ltd.

wenty-nine-year-old Reed is reflecting on her new role as the title lead in “Stella Blómkvist,” an Icelandic neonoir premiered in the fall of 2017 that has been said to breathe a new life into the Nordic noir genre. The rising star is best known up until now as Elizabeth Warleggan in the hit British period drama “Poldark.” As Elizabeth, Reed is restrained, sullen, sultry but so very English. In reality, Reed, born Heiða Rún Sigurðardóttir, is the bright flip-side: forthright, funny and self-reflective.

Striking, raven-haired with piercing green eyes, the Icelandic actor certainly looks the part of the femme fatale and brings intuition and intelligence to the role of Stella. STELLA BLÓMKVIST “Stella herself is a bit of a loner, a rogue lawyer that works completely on her own for her own benefits” explains Reed. Trouble loves Stella. Set in a parallel and highly stylized world, against a backdrop of bleakness, beauty and volcan ic activity, Stella’s investigations in season one alone include the murder of a young assistant to the Prime Minister of Iceland that leads her onto a murky trail uncovering murder, blackmail, sexual exploitation and corruption at the highest level. Directed by Óskar Thór Axelsson (Black’s Game and Trapped) and co-starring noted actors Jóhannes Haukur Jóhannesson and Steinunn Ólína Þorsteinsdóttir, Stella Blómkvist is a twisting helter-skelter. “Stella came to me at the perfect time, and I feel very fortunate to get to have a career in two different languages,” Heiða says. Reed loved being back home in Iceland for the filming and enjoying simple pleasures such as the “pure, fresh, geothermal water” as well as an opportunity to live on her own for the first time in Iceland and reconnect with the land of her birth. Reed left Iceland when she was 18 and never got a chance to have her own place in the heart of Reykjavík. “I definitely think of myself as an outsider,” she reflects. “I’ve been away long enough to feel out of the loop, and Iceland moves so quickly. But it only takes a little time for me to feel comfortable again and the more I work in Iceland, the easier it gets.” HEIÐA’S POLDARK SAGA Reed is currently on location in Cornwall and Bristol filming the fourth series of the hit drama Poldark, which will air this summer. Reed shot to fame as the repressed love of dashing hero, Ross Poldark (Aidan Turner), who ends up miserably married to Poldark’s cousin. The wild, western Cornish coast provides

the suitably tempestuous backdrop to the romance, feuds, betrayals and intrigue. Love across the classes that even today in the 21st century still energetically preoccupies both the English imagination and public life is a key theme in Poldark. The upper-class Ross Poldark shocks society by marrying an illiterate maid Demelza (Eleanor Tomlinson). Reed found herself at the center of controversy in 2016 when Poldark came under fire for a perceived rape scene between Elizabeth and Ross Poldark. The hurrah focused on the apparent ambiguity of the action after Ross violently confronts Elizabeth after learning she had agreed to wed George Warleggan (Jack Farthing). Elizabeth resists her former lover before consenting. A much publicized debate ensued that mirrored a similar fracas from the early seven ties when Sam Peckinpah’s film Straw Dogs (1971) starring Dustin Hoffman was released. Back to 2016 and Reed commented at the time that drama should be placed in historical context: “Things that are very serious now weren’t looked at that way back then.” In 2015 Reed acted in Scarlet, a play that focused on sexual harassment, at London’s Southwark Playhouse. With the disturbing revelations of the behavior of some of Hollywood’s most powerful players and the emergence of the #MeToo campaign, the spotlight on sexual misconduct and assault in the workplace has never been so intense. “It may seem to some like we’re regressing but I can only look at these many, many revelations as a step for ward,” Reed reflects. “Hopefully we’ll be entering a new era of the industry where people treat each other with respect. I hope I’m not being naive.” Reed reveals that she struggles with some of the demands of Poldark’s cost ume department, particularly the show’s famous bodices that both sartorially reflect the times and act as a metaphor for the reined in, repressive nature of Georgian society. “I hate that corset,” she says adding that on shooting days she must get up at 5 am to be fitted into it and often is in costume until shooting wraps at 8 pm. Horses feature significantly in Poldark, but Reed is not happiest in the saddle. “I’m actually always in subtle fear for my life while riding,” she confesses. BECOMING HEIDA REED Reed grew up in Breiðholt in the suburbs of Reykjavík with her pianist father and dental hygienist mother and had a “typical Icelandic childhood.” As a child, Reed loved to sing, dance and play football and in the long winter months “build snowmen and igloos.” An early passion for film was awakened after watching Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo and Juliet and Moulin Rouge. “I wanted to be an actress from a young age after my dad mentioned I might be able to Issue on 39

Heida Reed get paid to goof around all the time and be an idiot,” says Reed. “That sounded great to me. Obviously, there’s more to it than goofing, but there is certainly goofing as well.” Creativity is in her family. The middle child of three: Her brother is a stage producer in Denmark and her sister is a dancer. Reed attended ballet school and was scouted by a modeling agency while out shopping. Aged 18 she signed up with an Icelandic casting agency that sent her to India for work on commercials and modeling gigs. The plan was to return after three months. But she fell in love with India and stayed for 18 months. She didn’t even go back to finish school. On returning to Europe aged 20, Reed chose London over New York to study acting and won a place at the pre stigious Drama Centre in London—the school’s alumni include Michael Fassbender and Paul Bettany. Reed took a stage name for more international appeal. Heiða Rún Sigurðardóttir became Heida Reed. Reed started off acting in theater and performed at the Edinburgh Fringe in one of Albert Camus’ obscurer existentialist plays. Her first film role was in One Day (2011) starring Anne Hathaway, where Reed has a brief appearance. Before Poldark came along, she worked as a hostess in a Mayfair Club to make ends meet. “It was hard, yes, but my passion and ambition at the time overcame that I think,” she explains. London has been home for the past decade and is her favorite city: “I know it well, and a city is always best when you know all the good spots.” Poldark brought not just fame but friendships. On location Heida and Ruby Bentall, who plays Verity Poldark, live together and relax by inviting the cast around for supper and playing Icelandic card games. Back in London they often go to the pub and see each other’s new plays whenever they can. A few summers ago, Reed invited Ruby, Eleanor [Tomlinson, who plays Demelza], Jack [Farthing, who plays George Warleggan] and Kyle [Francis] to Iceland where they explored the country and spent some time at her grandmother’s cottage.

Heiða Reed as Elizabeth Warleggan in Poldark.

WOW Power to the people

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Heida Reed COMING HOME Not unlike Iceland with its similarly dramatic coastal landscape of cliffs, wild beaches and stormy weather crashing in from the Atlantic Ocean, Cornwall often makes Reed long for home, and she returns at least three times a year to catch up with family and friends. In the summer she heads in-country to go camping or stay at a summer cabin: “I love drinking beer in a hot tub,” Reed confesses. “My favorite view is over a body of water with lots of green around, and flowers and birds,” she reveals. Relaxing in Iceland’s gorgeous thermal pools is a cherished place of hers to unwind. Back in the city, her haunts include Systra samlagið, “an amazing organic, healthy café” on Óðinsgata and Kex Hostel—“One of my favorites is to either grab a drink or dinner or just be by myself and do some work.” On crisp winter days the actor “loves to go for a walk in Hljómskálagarður Park and over to the pond to feed the ducks and swans.” L.A. WOMAN It’s a new year and Reed is in the process of relocating to Los Angeles where her fiancé is based. Reed was engaged to US film producer and actor Sam Ritzenberg last July. There has been “a lot of back and forth between Los Angeles and the UK”. Reed and Ritzenberg met through the Tinder dating app but not in the conventional sense, just a dash more elaborate. A friend of Reed’s moved to LA, joined Tinder and began swiping. She then went on a date with a guy, they fell in love, moved in and got a dog. Through her, Reed then the met her now fiancé who is one of the Tinder date’s best friends. Before meeting Reed Sam had never heard of Poldark. Back to work and Reed, ambitious and talented, is sounding out Hollywood but remains refreshingly pragmatic and wisely tight-lipped about her plans, that may or may not include a secret comedy project. She also expresses a wish to return to acting on stage at some point, possibly in Iceland. “Vesturport is one of my favorite theater companies in the world and I hope to work with them one day,” she says. “What I love about Icelandic actors is that almost all of them are equally as much on stage as they are on film. That’s very rare elsewhere and special.” Reed and Ritzenberg spent New Year’s in the Bay Area of San Francisco. She loves the light, space and freedom of California. “I like the anonymity of being in a big city and getting lost in the hustle and bustle,” she says. “I find it quite liberating.” Last year Reed headed down the Pacific Coastal Highway into Mexico for the first time for a wedding in a little town by the ocean called Sayulita—“I fell madly in love with it,” she enthuses. “The shrimp tacos. Man oh, man! And the margaritas!” Reed occasionally posts her travels and reflections on her Instagram page. Her self-penned biography simply states: “Girl. Woman. Actor. Idiot.”

“Stella came to me at the perfect time, and I feel very fortunate to get to have a career in two different languages,” Heiða says.

Heiða as Stella in Stella’s sparsely furnished apartment. According to Stella Blómkvist, spending money on cheap furniture is a waste.

About Stella Blómkvist The show is based on books written by a mysterious, anonymous author who shares the same pen name as the lead character. The first Stella Blómkvist book was published in 1997 and since then eight others have followed. Stella’s character in the books is blonde and Reed was sure she wouldn’t get the part because of her own dark hair color. The TV series replicate the “Sherlock format” of three feature-length episodes, one for each case Stella takes on. The budget for Stella Blómkvist was €3m (US$3.6m), double the standard cost of an Icelandic drama. If all goes well Stella Blómkvist will be a long-running franchise. For her role as Stella, Heida Reed had to get reacquainted with her native language and was advised to speak and pronounce her lines less clearly.

WOW Power to the people

ble ub

Glo om

M Ma iss dd

FOR ALL THOSE WHO ARE YOUNG AT HEART

Fred

Come and meet the Tulipoppers in our magical flagship store in central ReykjavĂk or find them in boutiques around Iceland. Check out the Tulipop channel on YouTube to watch our new animated series.

Learn more about the Icelandic Tulipop world and browse the Tulishop online www.tulipop.com. @tulipop

@tulipopworld

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The WOW Fleet Paint the sky purple Unlike most airlines, WOW air chooses the registration names of each aircraft very carefully and not according to standard practices of the alphabet. We like our registration names to be fun as they Ârepresent us in a big way. Every family is unique, and our growing WOW family of Airbus aircraft is no exception. Take a look. Photos: SigurjĂłn Ragnar, srphoto@mac.com

WOW Power to the people

Airbus A330-300 wide-body

TF-WOW Type: A330-300 - YoM: 2015 - Seats: 345 TF-WOW was the first aircraft registration name acquired by WOW air. It now adorns one of our Airbus A330 wide-body jets which was added to the WOW fleet early summer 2016. WOW air’s A330s are the largest aircraft used on commercial flights to and from Iceland and are mostly used to service our routes to California, Florida and other long distance routes. TF-WOW has 27 BigSeats.

TF-MOM Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2014 - Seats: 200 Everyone loves their mom right? The second aircraft to get a WOW registration was TF-MOM; it was also the first aircraft bought and delivered to WOW air in March 2015. TF-MOM is also known as Freyja (The Nordic goddess of love) and is currently the only aircraft in the WOW fleet that has a name beyond its registration code. TF-WOW was the first aircraft registration name acquired by WOW air. It now adorns one of our Airbus A330 wide-body jets which was added to the WOW fleet early summer 2016.

Airbus 321-200

TF-DAD Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2014 - Seats: 200

WOW air has one of the youngest and most fuel efficient fleets in the world.

If you register a TF-MOM, it goes without saying that you should have a TF-DAD too. For a time TF-DAD was the only aircraft in the WOW fleet that was painted white and had a smile and sunglasses, following WOW air’s old livery. That all changed last May and TF-DAD is now just as purple as the rest of them.

TF-GMA Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2016 - Seats: 220 TF-GMA is a short name for Grandma, but don’t let the name fool you, she’s actually very young. The matriarch joined the WOW fleet at the end of May 2016, straight out of the box.

TF-GPA Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2016 - Seats: 220 Also straight-out-of-the-box, TF-GPA, aka Grandpa, joined the WOW fleet in August 2016. Together Grandma and Grandpa fly our guests to both North America and Europe.

TF-BRO

Type: A320-200 - YoM: 2010 - Seats: 174 TF-BRO has been servicing WOW air since September of 2015, flying to various destinations around Europe. Issue on 45

TF-SIS Type: A320-200 - YoM: 2010 - Seats: 174 TF-BRO’s twin sister was delivered to WOW air at the same time as TF-BRO, in September 2015, and works really hard carrying our guests to Europe.

TF-KID

Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2013 - Seats: 200 Delivered to WOW air in February 2016, TF-KID carries guests to both Europe and North America.

A321-200neo

TF-SON Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2013 - Seats: 200 TF-SON, like his sister TF-KID, services both Europe and America. The SON was delivered to WOW air in March 2016.

TF-LUV Type: A330-300 - YoM: 2015 - Seats: 345 We love everyone, so naturally, we had to have a TF-LUV. This widebody jet was delivered to WOW air early summer 2016. TF-LUV has 27 BigSeats.

TF-GAY Type: A330-300 - YoM: 2010 - Seats: 338

The sky is the limit for some, but for WOW air we aim further when it comes to technology. TFSKY was delivered in June 2017 and has a brand new CFM LEAP-1A engine.

TF-NEO Type: A320-200 neo - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 180 TF-NEO (New Engine Option) has brand new CFM LEAP-1A engines that are more economically and environmentally friendly than any other on the market. TF-NEO’s added flight range means it can fly our guests all the way to Canada in addition to servicing our shorter European routes.

TF-PRO Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 218

TF-GAY is the out and proud member of the WOW family. A free spirit at heart, he visits San Francisco as often as he can. TF-GAY was delivered to WOW air in June 2016. TF-GAY has 14 BigSeats.

Say hello to one of our young professionals of the sky. All of our aircraft are total pros, but this one gets to be TF-PRO. Delivered in May 2017 with newly designed interior in WOW air’s style, it gives genuine comfort and is truly amazing.

TF-JOY

TF-WIN

Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2016 - Seats: 220

Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 218

Just before Christmas 2016 we received TF-JOY straight-out-ofthe-box from Airbus. It was the best holiday present ever!

We like winning, and TF-WIN well represents our ambition. Delivered in May 2017 with newly designed interior, WIN serves both our European and North American destinations.

TF-NOW Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 218 Make sure you are present in the NOW and fly with TF-NOW in glamorous style. Delivered to WOW air in June 2017 with newly designed interior, TF-NOW travels to both Europe and North America.

TF-SKY Type: A321-200neo - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 218 The sky is the limit for some, but for WOW air we aim further when it comes to technology. TF-SKY was delivered in June 2017 and has a brand new CFM LEAP-1A engine. WOW air is the first airline in Europe to operate the A321 neo aircraft. It offers A321 operators exceptional technical, economic and environmental performance, with a 15% reduction in fuel consumption and CO2 emissions versus current engines and a 50% cut in NOx emission. TF-SKY’s added flight range means it can fly our guests all the way to Tel Aviv in the Middle East and most of our destinations in North America as well.

Two of our brand new babies in the family are the A320neo and A321neo.

TF-NEO A320-200 neo

TF-NEO’s added flight range means it can fly our guests all the way to Canada in addition to servicing our shorter European routes.

NEO stands for New Engine Option and offers up to 15% reduction in fuel consumption. You will be amazed how quiet these aircraft are.

TECHNICAL INFO

Airbus A320-200

Airbus 320-200neo

Airbus A321-200

Airbus 321-200neo

Airbus A330-300

Max takeoff weight: 78,000 kg Range: 6,150 km Engines: 2xIAE-V2500 Cruising speed: Mach 0.82

Max takeoff weight: 79,000 kg Range: 6,850 km with Sharklets Engines: 2xCFM LEAP-1A Cruising speed: Mach 0.82

Max takeoff weight: 93,500 kg Range: 5,950 km with Sharklets Engines: 2xCFM-56 Cruising speed: Mach 0.82

Max takeoff weight: 93,500 kg Range: 6,850 km with Sharklets Engines: 2xCFM LEAP-1A Cruising speed: Mach 0.82

Max takeoff weight: 235,000 kg Range: 11,100 km Engines: 2xRR-Trent700 Cruising speed: Mach 0.86

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Issue on 47

ICELANDIC SORCERY

It’s a kind of magic Awe-inspiring. Unique. Bleak. Enchanting. All of these words often spring from the lips of tourists that come to Iceland. Capitalizing on this, Hollywood has churned out quite a few films that utilize Iceland’s nature as a backdrop; still there is much more to explore in the rich tapestry of Icelandic culture. by Marvin Lee Dupree Photos: iStockphoto.com and Shutterstock.com

n the days of yonder, way before we had our current Icelandic Twitterati and Vikingclapping football stars, Icelanders were by and large isolated from the turbulent events of Europe. This beautiful island may not have been a congenial home for the majority of Icelanders in past times due to the unforgiving and harsh weather. Yet, being in this glacial quarantine allowed Icelanders to retain many fabulous quirks which other European countri es lost such as magical staves to guard against crafty foxes on the prowl for one’s sheep. THE “DARK TIMES, THE HEATHEN TIMES” Before unravelling the magical thread, it might be useful to have an immensely brief primer, on the history and development of magical staves and magic in Iceland. Take for example the Icelandic sagas; it may seem that our progenitors were bereft of a moral compass due to the massive amount of bloodletting; however, Icelanders managed to dabble in magic and other scholarly pursuits. One important caveat in the age of settlement and the sagas was

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that there was a distinction drawn between types of “magic.” The more “feminine” type was considered to be seiður, which involved natural materials such as animals and plants while the “masculine” type, galdur, was more involved with runes and incantations Before adopting the Latin-based alphabet, Old Norse (Icelandic) was conveyed through the usage of the fu þark alphabet or runes. In fact, variations of the fuþark were used by Germanic people nearly two millennia ago; and in many cases, these runes were considered to have magical properties. In fact, runes are mentioned numerous times in the Icelandic sagas, including Egil’s saga because of course, Egill, the scoundrel that he was, used them to further his nefarious ends. There was still some intellectual fermentation and borrowings from the continent, and medieval grimoires developed. While some Icelandic magical staves were etched in caves around Iceland by outlaws and loners, and they may have been lost to the barrage of time, still some can be found. QUIRKY ICELANDIC MAGIC AND DANGEROUS GANDALFS In my initial remarks, I made a note of how geographical determinism helped shape the cultural practices of the nation. The belief in runes and magic staves help elucidate the everyday reality of Icelanders in past times. A very notable example, as described in the 18th-century travelogue of the famous jack-of-all-trades Eggert Ólafsson, would be the use of a vindgapi (technically it is related to a scorn stick, but it could be used for good or bad deeds).

In fact, runes are mentioned numerous times in the Icelandic sagas, including Egil’s saga because of course, Egill, the scoundrel that he was, used them to further his nefarious ends.

A vindgapi was created by taking the skull of a cod or ling, usually the latter due to its scarcity and perceived magical properties, and writing a rune or using the particular magical stave, which would result in stormy weather. The genealogy of this phenomenon can be traced to past times when people carved out or drew the magical stave “Þórshöfuð.” Another crucial factor is the synchronization of Christianity and paganism that can be seen in the development of magical staves and magic in Iceland. Legendary practitioners of magic, such as Gottskálk the Grim creator of the magical tome Rauðskinna (e. Red Skin aka The Book of Power), are part of this magical tradition. In fact, one of the most famous semimythical characters of Icelandic history is our own Galdra Loftur, a Faustian figure, who tried to obtain this book—but died in the process. Stories like these might seem fantastical however at the tail-end of the 17th century there are legal cases involving magic. In one such case a Jón Sigurðsson accused a priest, coincidentally named Loftur, for causing him a peculiar illness, which he only felt when within the church parish, with two magical staves the priest gave him directly and two others that were placed in Jón’s pillow, likely by the priest’s brother Skafti. The root of this dispute seems to have been love, in the sense that both Jón and Loftur were in love with the same woman. Loftur the priest was never fully exonerated and went into exile after the case came to a halt without a conclusive verdict. The year after he returned to Iceland a smallpox epidemic broke out in Iceland killing, among others, 26 priests in Loftur’s old parish. His great uncle, a bishop over that same parish, then hired Loftur back to his old post, which he had lost due to the accusations of magic 36 years earlier. Jón got to marry the woman in question, her name was Ragnheiður Torfadóttir and her story is even better known than the magical dispute of the two men.

written by and illustrated by Jochum Magnús Eggertsson who was a bit of an odd fellow that went by the nom de plume of Skuggi. Not only did he depict the magical staves, he also included the spells and incantations needed for the staves. Some formulas are for raising the dead or catching a thief. Some of my personal favorites include winning a woman’s love. It requires the user to carve the stave in question on oak, and while holding it in your hand, you kiss the woman whom you desire. Others include a magical stave for luck that must also be carved out in oak but in human blood to ward off evil spirits. Admittedly, some of the others spells are a tad bit more complex; although, without a doubt very practical, such as the sword stave that prevents your enemies from murdering you. Still, my favorite one is the looking-glass: granting one the gift of prophecy. If you are interested in this unique and fascinating part of Icelandic culture, then take a trip north to the Icelandic Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft in Holmavik. Make sure to see the necropants (literally “death underpants”), and grab a copy of the lavishly well updated The Sorcerer’s Screed while you attempt your magical mischief!

Another crucial factor is the synchronization of Christianity and paganism that can be seen in the development of magical staves and magic in Iceland.

Icelandic magical staves

STAVES OF LOVE AND PROTECTION Speaking of amour, magical staves for love can indeed be found in various manuscripts, and one of more famous ones is Galdrabók Lofts Sigurðssonar, another coincidence, which suggests using a particular magical stave to place in the pillow of one’s beloved. Although many of these staves seem to be entirely pagan—some became highly ritualized due to the confluence of the Judeo-Christian tradition with the Nordic tradition; thus spawning a myriad of different spells and magical staves. Examples would be a defensive seal or magical stave containing the words: “Jesus, Lord: may be peace with you” and the defensive seal of Solomon, a popular magical symbol in medieval grimoires. Conversely, there are magical staves solely connected to the pagan Gods, or Nordic tradition, such as Freyja or Þór. Other such beautiful, magical staves include the famous Ægishjálmur. BE LIKE GANDALF! During most of the 20th century, scant atten tion was given to the magical staves, but this travesty has slowly been rectified. For example, recently, the publishing house Lesstofan, republished The Sorcerer’s Screed, which was

Although many of these staves seem to be entirely pagan—some became highly ritualized due to the confluence of the Judeo-Christian tradition with the Nordic tradition; thus spawning a myriad of different spells and magical staves.

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WOW word of advice

The ultimate safety checklist We have the utmost respect for the work of ICE-SAR (Icelandic Search and Rescue teams) who work tirelessly educating locals and guests alike to prevent accidents while traveling in Iceland. ICE-SAR’s volunteers, on call day and night, are willing and able to respond to emergency calls and go into dangerous circumstances to save those who haven’t heard or haven’t heeded their advice.

Check the road conditions on www.road.is as they frequently change in the wintertime and may be closed/impassible.

Because it is in every traveler’s power not to put himself/herself in danger, we consider it a common courtesy towards the rescue volunteers to follow their advice and stay safe. Your life is not the only one you’ll put in danger if you don’t. Good preparation is key for successful travel in Iceland, so please keep the following in mind: 1.

Your first destination should always be www.safetravel.is.

Always leave your travel plan with someone who can react if needed and with Safetravel.

Check the weather forecast on vedur.is, sudden changes in weather are very common so always be prepared for any kind of weather!

Map, compass and GPS should always be used when traveling outside urban areas!

Conditions in Iceland can be very different from what you are used to, so gather information about the area you are traveling to.

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Single lane bridges, tunnels and roads can be found in all of Iceland. Show patience, slow down and let cars coming from the other side finish crossing before attempting it yourself.

If traveling on foot/hiking, make sure you are fully aware of the conditions and follow marked trails!

When hiking in Iceland, layers are your friend! A waterproof shell is a necessity and wool is your best friend in the mountains!

Look for the Safetravel screens around the country as alerts on weather and conditions will appear on there!

Beautiful Icelandic nature is easily accessible by car, but you must keep the following in mind: 9.

Check the road conditions on www.road.is as they frequently change in the wintertime and may be closed/impassible.

10. Driving in the Highland should only be done in 4x4/4WD jeeps with ground clearance! 11. A seat belt use is required by law and your life may depend upon it; also in the backseat!

112 The emergency number in Iceland is 112.

12. Pulling over on the side of the main road (no. 1) is prohibited. Find a side road or a rest area where you can open all doors of the vehicle safely! 13. Accidents are common on gravel roads—reduce your speed before the transition! 14. Single lane bridges, tunnels and roads can be found in all of Iceland. Show patience, slow down and let cars coming from the other side finish crossing before attempting it yourself.

We hope you have safe travel in Iceland. Remember —we want you out of here - alive!

Refuel at OlÃs We welcome you to our service stations around Iceland where you can refuel and enjoy our services. Great variety of tasty food and beverages and everything else you might need on the road. Visit us at olis.is/travel

FREE FUEL DISCOUNT CARD

FREE COFFEE WITH DISCOUNT CARD

FREE WI-FI

OPEN 24 HOURS

Since 1927

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Flying

FLYING MADE SIMPLER Last year we introduced three simple and easy ways to book flights with WOW air, WOW basic, WOW plus and WOW biz. We are constantly adapting our services to better suit our guestsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; needs so now we introduce the all-new WOW comfy and an update to the WOW biz. Four easy ways to get more WOW for your money 52

WOW Power to the people

FLYING MADE SIMPLER

WOW basic This is really all you need: a simple flight ticket that will get you to your destination along with one personal item. You can add anything you want to the ticket, such as a carry-on bag or checked baggage, bigger seat, priority boarding and cancellation protection to name a few, for an additional fee. This is our simple ultra-low fare.

Included: • •

Flight ticket Personal item up to a maximum 42x32x25cm/ 17x13x10in

WOW plus Bundle up—we’re now offering your dream package. The convenient WOW plus option is loaded with add-ons at a better price. Fly in style and enjoy the extra services such as a carry-on bag, a checked bag and standard seat reservation. WOW plus will always be cheaper than adding these services to the WOW basic fare; guaranteed

Included: • • • •

Personal item up to a maximum 42x32x25cm/ 17x13x10in Carry-on bag up to a maximum of 56x45x25 cm/ 22x18x10in Checked bag Standard seat reservation

WOW comfy Get cozy with the WOW comfy because you don’t have to skimp on comfort when you save on airfare. Choose the most relaxing way to travel and stretch out with the extra legroom. The WOW comfy option has all the best add-ons, such as carry-on and checked bags and XL-XXL seats with a 32-36-inch seat pitch.

Included: • • • • •

Personal item up to a maximum 42x32x25cm/ 17x13x10in Carry-on bag up to a maximum of 56x45x25 cm/ 22x18x10in Checked bag Cancellation protection Seat reservation: XL or XXL. Best extra legroom seat available at the time of booking.

WOW biz For all the busy bees out there, this one’s for you. Travel in the biggest and most comfortable seats available and be the first in line at the airport. Of course, you’ll get checked bags and a carry-on bag, the best seat on board (BigSeat) and cancellation protection.

Included: • • • • • • • • •

Flight ticket Personal item up to a maximum 42x32x25cm/ 17x13x10in Carry-on bag up to a maximum of 56x45x25 cm/ 22x18x10in 2 checked bags* Cancellation protection BigSeat: Our biggest and most comfortable seat, always.* Priority boarding at all airports In-flight meals and snacks: Pre-order or choose food and drinks from the WOW me menu on board. Free coffee

BIGGER AND BETTER WOW air has always been a single class airline and that’s hasn’t changed but we now have some first-class seats should our guests want to treat themselves to a little more luxury. On all our aircraft we offer, of course, our standard seats, 29-31” and for an additional fee guests can select XL (32-34”) and XXL (35”+) seats if they want to stretch their legs while they spread their wings. Last year we introduced the BigSeat—a bigger, better and more comfortable seat, available only on our A330 aircraft, and it was a big hit. This year we will gradually begin to add BigSeats to all of our aircraft so that more guests will have the option of trying this luxurious goodness. These extra wide and comfy seats all have added legroom and they all lean back but the real bonus is the footrest, giving you that super relaxed feeling on board. The BigSeat will soon be 100% included in the WOW Biz option but no matter what option you go for you can always add an XL, XXL or BigSeat to your ticket if they haven’t already been snatched up. For more information on WOW air’s additional services and new flight options go to wowair.us/travel-info/fares * The updated WOW biz packages, as described here, available for booking after March 1st.

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Where the locals go Three local secrets on the Reykjavik restaurant scene that will leave you wanting more.

M Messinn at Grandi If you want the best fish in Reykjavík, look no further The restaurant is located in an old fishing area close to the city center and offers a relaxed atmosphere and a great view, overlooking the Reykjavík Harbor.

essinn by the Reykjavík Harbor is a new fish buffet restaurant that offers pan fried fish served in cast iron skillets, emphasizing fresh quality material in every way. The restaurant is located in an old fishing area close to the city center and offers a relaxed atmosphere and a great view, overlooking the Reykjavík Harbor. Another Messinn restaurant, located in the city center offers similar dishes and is rated as one of the top five restaurants in Reykjavík on TripAdvisor. The most popular courses are the fried Arctic char with honey and almonds, the Atlantic wolffish in a creamy mushroom sauce and the plaice fried with tomatoes, capers, lemon and butter.

Messinn I Grandagarður 8 and Lækjargata 6b I Tel: +354 562 1515 I messinn.com

Grái kötturinn The right place to energize for a busy day The Gray Cat prides itself on its homemade bread, tuna salad, hummus and pancakes. It is frequented by local artists and intellectuals.

The Gray Cat” is a cozy, dimly lit, book-lined café in an old townhouse, and a must visit when in Reykjavik. It opens early (perfect for those who have arrived on the red-eye) and focuses on American style breakfast, lunch and brunch. Although the Cat is famous for their big breakfast dish known as “The Truck,” you will find more on the menu, such as sandwiches, bagels, hummus, eggs & bacon and last but not least; American pancakes. The Gray Cat prides itself on its homemade bread, tuna salad, hummus and pancakes. It is frequented by local artists and intellectuals. So do like the locals; sit down, read a book or plan your day while you eat eggs, pancakes or bagels and drink good coffee (Icelanders take the latter very seriously).

Grái kötturinn I Hverfisgata 16a I 101 Reykjavik I Tel: +354 551 1544 I facebook.com/graikotturinn/ I Mon-Fri; 7:30AM-2:30PM I Sat-Sun 8:00AM-2:30PM

Rústik Restaurant & Bar The ultimate Icelandic experience The dishes at Rústik are designed for sharing and to create the ultimate Icelandic dining experience.

unique restaurant and bar in downtown Reykjavík, Rústik offers a vibrant atmosphere, stylish surroundings, great food and drinks at great prices. Their specialty is Icelandic lobster and lamb, and they work closely with an organic farmer, their good friend Eymundur Magnússon, who guarantees the very best in local quality and enables them to create traditional and modern cuisine. The dishes at Rústik are designed for sharing and to create the ultimate Icelandic dining experience.

Rústik I Hafnarstræti 1-3, 101 Reykjavik I Tel: +354 561 1313 I www.rustik.is I Sun – Thu, 11:30 am – 10 pm I Fri – Sat, 11:30 am – 11 pm

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Den Danske Kro Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 12:00 – 01:00 and Fri-Sat 12:00 – 05:00

Den Danske Kro

When in Iceland, go Danish! A vibrant place on the Reykjavík social scene is Den Danske Kro or “The Danish Pub,” a popular downtown venue with locals with happy hour and with live music every night.

en Danske Kro serves a variety of beers, in addition to familiar names such as Tuborg and Carlsberg, the Danish Pub serves a selection of seasonal beers from both Denmark and Iceland. During the Christmas months, Den Danske Kro is the home of the Tuborg Christmas Beer or “Julebryg,” a popular drink in Iceland during the darkest months.

check out the interior of the pub and you’ll discover an off-the-wall design in its most literal sense! Den Danske Kro is a great place to hang out with friends, play darts, watch sports, enjoy the occasional sun and watch the world go by on the outside terrace. And to get into the spirit of things, we recommend you try a glass of the customary Gammel Dansk bitters, a traditional Danish schnapps.

Cozy Copenhagen style

The place to party

The Danes have a word to describe a cozy, friendly atmosphere—“hyggelig” and that’s something the owners of the Danish Pub have worked hard to create in this home away from home within a pub. Just

Den Danske Kro, as said before, is a popular venue among locals, and as soon as happy hour kicks off, the place starts filling up with people from the neighborhood and others who want to finish the

Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is

workday with a cold beer. Every night there’s live music where you can request your all-time favorite. During the weekend Den Danske Kro is open late. The bartenders will be happy to see you and you are welcome to dance and sing with the guests until the morning.

Den Danske Kro serves a variety of beers, in addition to familiar names such as Tuborg and Carlsberg, the Danish Pub serves a selection of seasonal beers from both Denmark and Iceland.

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Slippbarinn Opening hours: Sundays to Thursdays: 11:30 am – midnight / Fridays and Saturdays: 11:30 am – 1:00 am / Happy hour: every day from 3-6 pm.

Mýrargata 2 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 560 8080 Email: slippbarinn@icehotels.is www.slippbarinn.is

lippbarinn became an instant hit, with its emphasis on fresh ingredients, creativity and high-quality hand-crafted cocktails. Many fine bars have since followed in Slippbarinn’s footsteps, making the Reykjavík scene exciting to any cocktail connoisseur. But no one else quite lives up to the endless innovation, ambition and sheer style of the inimitable Slippbarinn.

Bright flavors and bold presentation In the kitchen as in the bar, Slippbarinn is guided by its philosophy of flux and creativity. Starting with the solid foundation of a classic dish, the chefs

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Slippbarinn

The birthplace of Icelandic cocktail culture It has already been five years since Slippbarinn opened its doors at the trendy and delightful Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Marina, but it is still as popular as ever. As it turns out, Reykjavík in 2012 was ripe for a cocktail revolution.

bring their own twist, sometimes bold, sometimes subtle, but always deeply satisfying. An everevolving menu consists of dishes that combine fresh and hearty, wholesome and flavorful, with a dash of adventure. Some classics have earned a permanent place, however. Be sure not to miss the legendary charcuterie (created to share), the expertly prepared calamari, or what might be the best fish soup in the entire city!

Your perfect harbor hangout Almost every town in Iceland is a fishing village at heart. At Slippbarinn, you get right in touch with

Reykjavík’s roots. Located on the old harbor, in view of a still-operational dock, it’s where you can watch fishing vessels being repaired. Slippbarinn is the perfect place to while away an afternoon over a whiskey sour and the catch of the day. When it is time for a caffeine fix, head over to Slippbarinn’s baby brother, the adjoined gourmet café Kaffi slippur. The pastries will melt in your mouth and you will dream of them ever after.

Slippbarinn is the perfect place to while away an afternoon over a whiskey sour and the catch of the day.

VOX Restaurant Tel.: +354 444 5050 | www.vox.is

Geiri Smart Restaurant Hverfisgata 30 | Tel.: +354 528 7050 | geirismart.is

EXTRAORDINARY RESTAURANTS FOR FINE DINING OR A CASUAL LUNCH VISIT APPETITEFORICELAND.COM FOR THE BEST WE HAVE TO OFFER

Icelandair Hotel Akureyri Tel.: +354 518 100 | www.aurorarestaurant.is

Satt Restaurant Tel.: +354 444 4050 | www.sattrestaurant.is Issue on 57

Burro Opening hours: Sun-Thu: 5-11 pm and Fri-Sat: 5-12 pm Pablo Discobar Opening hours: Sun-Thu: 4 pm – 1 am and Fri-Sat: 4 pm – 3 am Happy our every day from 4-6 pm

Veltusund 1 by Ingólfstorg Square 101 Reykjavik - Tel: +354 552 733 E-mail: burro@burro.is www.burro.is

Burro and Pablo Discobar

Where you’ll find the locals Burro Tapas + Steaks is a new favorite on the Icelandic restaurant scene, having opened in the fall of 2016 in downtown Reykjavik. Icelanders were quick to claim this hidden gem, and from the start, it has been a local favorite.

urro Tapas + Steaks is a new favorite on the Icelandic restaurant scene, having opened in the fall of 2016 in downtown Reykjavik. Icelanders were quick to claim this hidden gem, and from the start, it has been a local favorite.

Fun and quirky with a history

Burro is located in the center of Reykjavík in a hist orical building designed by Rögnvaldur Ólafsson, often dubbed “the first architect of Iceland.” To design the interior of Burro, the owners recruited designer Hálfdán Pedersen to help them use as much as possible of the house’s original plans as well as portray their fun and quirky spirit.

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Best shared with friends

All food at Burro is prepared with high-quality Icelandic ingredients by master chefs and served by the very helpful waiting staff. Everything they serve comes with a modern Latin twist and all of the dishes are made so they can be shared with the whole table, creating a more festive atmosphere. Every night at Burro will feel like it’s the weekend; it’s fun, it’s relaxed and the staff makes sure all of their guests are having a good time.

Dinner and disco

Before or after enjoying dinner at Burro, we recommend a visit to Burro’s weird brother on the

floor above the restaurant. Pablo Discobar has happy hour from 4-6 PM every day. Pablo Discobar will make you some of the best cocktails in town, and of course he will play you some disco music as well but beware, he doesn’t like it when people steal his pelicans.

Burro Tapas + Steaks is a new favorite on the Icelandic restaurant scene, hav ing opened in the fall of 2016 in down town Reykjavik. Icelanders were quick to claim this hidden gem, and from the start, it has been a local favorite.

Kaldi Bar Opening hours: Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 pm - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 pm 03:00 am Happy our every day from 4-7 pm

A breath of fresh air

Cool as Kaldi

Laugavegur 20b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.kaldibar.com

Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík.

t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos phere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, there’s a great outside seating area in a cozy backyard. Known for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottles, Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew. Drop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local.

Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmosphere in a rustic setting.

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The English Pub Opening hours: Sun-Thurs: 12:00 - 01:00 Fri-Sat: 12-04:30 Open at 11 am from May 1st to September 1st.

Austurstræti 12 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 0400 Mobile: +354 697 9003 www.enskibarinn.is. www.enskibarinn.is.

The English Pub – Save water, drink beer For years, Iceland has enjoyed a diverse selection of restaurants and often sophisticated bars. However, one tiny grumble occasionally surfaced from the country’s Anglophiles – simply that there was no proper “pub”.

nd so the English Pub was born. From modest beginnings it has built a hearty reputation, seeking out, with the advice and guidance of its dedicated customers, the finest ale available to mankind. Today it offers its enthusiastic clientele the chance to try a great variety of beers, foreign brands, as well as many local beers that are a must try.

Whisky galore Not content to rest on its laurels, the English Pub has ventured north of its virtual border and also offers the finest selection of whiskies anywhere in the country. Acclaimed assortment of malts includes many of Scotland’s finest, ensuring numerous Icelanders and worldly travelers make

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the pilgrimage to the pub’s humble door. Located at the very heart of downtown Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

A sporting chance Live sporting coverage is amply catered for, with a choice of six big screens and two TV screens. Inside the pub there is room for up to 150 people, and an outdoor terrace can accommodate plenty more on those balmy Icelandic evenings! Whether it is football (Premier and Champions League), rugby or golf, there are always special offers when live events are being broadcast. Live music every night adds

to the atmosphere. In addition to the happy hour from 4-7pm every day, and for the ones feeling lucky, there is the Wheel of Fortune. Regulars like nothing more than to spin the wheel and chance a “Sorry” or preferably, win what used to be called a Yard of Ale. These days, it’s inevitably known as a meter of beer, but the winners don’t seem to mind!

Located at the very heart of downtown Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

The Lebowski Bar Opening hours: 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat Twitter: @LebowskiBar Instagram: #LebowskiBa

Lebowski Bar The Reykjavik venue that rocks! Walking into this American retro bar, is stepping back in time. And right away you know it’s the right bar for a few White Russians and a real good time. With carefully chosen music from the 50s to the 80s, the atmosphere in Lebowski Bar comes together giving the good vibration that the Dude would definitely abide by! Just walk in to see what condition your condition is in...

ll kinds of people come here,” the staff proudly explains. “Icelanders, tourists, everybody. With food and music that suits everyone, our customers range from age 20 to 85.” On those rare, but beautiful “warm” days in Iceland, Lebowski is the place to be: the huge outdoor terrace opens whenever the temperature rises above “a steamy 5°C.” But even with all this going for it, what Lebowski Bar prides itself most on is its delicious, diner-style menu with one-of-a-kind burgers, thick and creamy milkshakes, and oh yeah— White Russians. White Russians. Lebowski Bar has over 23 different variations of White Russians, the most popular one being the Cocaucasian, a regular White Russian topped with Cocoa Puffs. Some call it the brunch of champions, others Cocoa Puffs Russian … Either way, it’s delicious!

Where’s the Burger, Lebowski? Made with 150 grams of beef—that’s more than a quarter pound, for the metrically-challenged— Lebowski Bar’s classic burgers always hit the spot and boast a tempting array of toppings and sauces, from chili-marinated bacon to Japanese mayo.

With its perfect balance of sweet and savory, the Honey Boo, a honey-glazed bacon and BBQ-sauce burger, has been called “the best bacon burger in town” (and there are a lot of them to choose from). The Other Lebowski, a steak burger made from extra juicy beef tenderloin, is a staff favorite. Wanna go big? Check out the “Burger of the Month” specialty offerings. Past specialty burgers have included the Once Upon a Time in the West, made with steak tenderloin marinated in La Trappe Quadrupel Ale and served with Jack Daniels BBQ Sauce and caramelized onions, among other tasty toppings. Another limited-time option was the Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, a piquant patty served—appropriately enough—with pepper cheese and chili sauce. Burgers are clearly the house specialty here. For non-beefy options, Lebowski Bar has something for you, too. Try the Bunny Lebowski Chicken Burger, which was declared “gorgeous” by one happy visitor on Trip Advisor, or The Stranger Veggie Burger. And if you’re looking for something lighter, there are plenty of bar snacks—from cheese-stuffed jalapeños to onion rings—to enjoy with your beer.

Laugavegur 20a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: info@lebowskibar.is www.lebowskibar.is

You’re not wrong, Walter Lebowski Bar opens 11 am for lunch and there is a DJ every night from 9 pm. All big sports events are shown on all 5 Full HD screens. “This Reykjavík place is mind-bending,” Trip Advisor user Graham enthused after a recent visit. “The burgers are massive, the chips chunky and the beers and White Russians flow. There’s a happy hour to bring down Iceland’s high prices, and regular bands playing to bring the film’s rockin’ ethos to life.” Sounds good to us. But you know, that’s just, like, his opinion, man.

Wanna go big? Check out the “Burger of the Month” specialty offerings. Past specialty burgers have included the Once Upon a Time in the West, made with steak tenderloin marinated in La Trappe Quadrupel Ale and served with Jack Daniels BBQ Sauce and caramelized onions, among other tasty toppings.

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Kopar Restaurant Opening hours: Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 Fridays from 11:30-23:30 Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 Sundays from 18:00-22:30

Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant.is info@koparrestaurant.is

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor Kopar Restaurant is situated by Reykjavik‘s romantic harbor, in one of the old green fisherman‘s huts.

he fishing industry still thrives in Reykjavik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the morning, fishermen go out to sea and return later with their catch of the day. As you stand on the pier you can feel the history of Reykjavik and watch the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and young kids with their rods trying their luck off the pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere of the old harbor is all part of the experience when you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant

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featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans. They are especially proud of their crab soup, made with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the fruit of the ocean. Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She pre pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere, delicious food and the best view in town. When visit ing Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is a must.

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She prepares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

Cafe Paris Opening hours: Sundays-Thursdays from 8:30am-10pm / Fridays-Saturdays from 8:30am-11pm

The French beat in downtown Reykjavik

Austurstræti 14, 101 Reykjavik

Cafe Paris is a local corner restaurant and café, where you can enjoy the calm and charming feel of old Paris, with a hint of a New York twist.

osaic tiles, marble top coffee-tables and classic wicker chairs create the right at mosphere here. The terrace facing the historic Austurvöllur is the local’s go to place on sunny days—it also does the trick on chilly evenings, when guests wrap themselves in blankets and get hugged by the Nordic absence of light. Cafe Paris welcomes you to enjoy a nutritious and hearty breakfast, lunchtime favorites and heart warming pastries. To wind down in the evening,

one shouldn’t forget a drink at the bar, followed by a candlelit dinner in one of the comfortable banquettes. The menu offers a selection of French classics such as Moules frites and onion soup, spiked with New York vibes in the form of chicken and waffles, and Oysters Rockefeller. The creamy New York cheesecake, followed by a thick espresso—or a glass of champagne will be the perfect “finissage” to a good meal at this petite Parisian escape.

Tel: +354 551 1020 www.cafeparis.is

Mosaic tiles, marble top coffee-tables and classic wicker chairs create the right atmosphere here. The terrace facing the historic Austurvöllur is the local’s go to place on sunny days—it also does the trick on chilly even ings, when guests wrap themselves in blankets and get hugged by the Nordic absence of light.

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ODDSSON Hello is it me you’re looking for?

Hello is it me you’re looking for? 101 Reykjavík Tel: 5113579 www.oddsson.is email: hello@oddsson.is

ODDSSON Reykjavik ODDSSON is all about the surprising combinations that make life interesting.

luxurious suite on the same floor as an 8 bed dorm room. Extravagant design furniture in a lobby with stripped down concrete walls. A Karaoke room in the middle of a restaurant! Whether you are looking to splurge or save, this old warehouse turned hip-hostel is the place to rest, play, work, have a snack, meet people, make friends or just sit back and relax.

A view to get lost in Although ODDSSON is only a few steps away from the frenzy of bars, cafés and stores of downtown Reykjavík its proximity to the sea makes it feel nicely set apart from the bustle of the city center. As you kick back in the lobby’s sofa’s and take in that

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expansive ocean view it’s easy to imagine yourself sitting somewhere at the edge of the world. The glorious sunset light on Mount Esja (or the northern lights over the bay if you’re lucky) only adds to the sensation. If you need to plan a trip, catch up on work or upload all those pictures you’ve been taking on your travels, why not grab a coffee at the café downstairs, spread your map, plug in your devices and make yourself at home. There’s plenty of space.

Did someone say yoga? If it’s relaxation you’re after, then be sure to memo rize the weekly schedule for the hostel’s yoga studio. With a variety of sessions ranging from quiet meditation hours to full-on Yoga classes, the

studio brings ODDSSON guests, staff members, and locals all together for a little bit of bliss. Perched on the fourth floor with warm wood vibes and huge windows opening up to the sky, there is nowhere better to salute the sun.

ODDSSON offers dorm rooms, single & double hostel rooms as well as en suite rooms at some of the best prices in Iceland. For an even better bargain use this code when you book your stay at ODDSSON.is: 4WOW2STAY

Yogafood Opening hours: 7:30 AM - 7:30PM

Taste the love

Yogafood Yogafood is a new restaurant located at Grensásvegur 10, not far from downtown Reykjavik. Whether you want to grab some fresh red beet juice, a green smoothie to take on your trip or sit down for a healthy lunch, Yogafood has it all.

Yogafood serves a variety of healthy breakfast items and offers a delicious lunch menu, all glutenfree and with no added sugar.

Nourishing the chakras Yogafood’s concept designer is Thorbjörg, an Ice landic internationally recognized nutritionist and author of many lifestyle books and health cookbooks. Her latest is about Yoga and Yogafood. She has lived in Denmark for the past 30 years but moved back home last summer to fulfill her dream of opening up her own health food restaurant. The concept of the food is based on vitality and energy including

the 7 chakras, which for those who are familiar with yoga, know that all have their specific meaning and qualities. The juices and drinks served at Yogafood, are made with a specific chakra in mind, and you can choose off the menu according to what chakra you want to strengthen. If you don’t know anything about yoga or the chakras, no worries, just come and enjoy the tasty and high-quality food. On the menu, you will, for example, find a Moroc can vegetarian dish, a deeply satisfying vegan Indian dish, a hearty Chili sin carne with a quinoa salsa salad or a colorful Caribbean veggie mix with coconut-carrot salad. If you want something lighter, grab a gluten-free sandwich with pesto and grilled zucchini and a refreshing sun energy juice

Grensásvegur 10 108 reykjavík Tel: 519-2290 www.yogafood.is Email: tobba@yogafood.is

to go with it. And don’t miss out on the delectable sugar-free desserts; they look amazing, and taste even better. The aim at Yogafood is for you to TASTE THE LOVE in every bite you take.

Yogafood’s concept designer is Thorbjörg, an Icelandic interna tionally recognized nutritionist and author of many lifestyle books and health cookbooks. Her latest is about Yoga and Yogafood.

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American Bar Open: Mondays to Thursday from 11:00 am - 1:00 am - Fri - Sat: 11:00 am 4:30 am - Sun: 11:00 am - 1:00 am

Austurstræti 8-10 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9999 Mobile: +354 697 9003 Find us on Facebook/AmericanBarIceland

American Bar American Bar captures the American spirit; land of the free, home of the brave with a unique selection of beer and a simple yet delicious menu. American Bar is a must-visit when in Reykjavik.

Beer selection second to none With more than 50 different kinds of beer you are sure to find the beer that suits your taste. There’s beer made in the Hawaiian Islands as well as beer made from the famous Icelandic water.

Location and experience Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

Live music, live sport and the Wheel of Fortune Live music every night brings the right atmosphere and if you want to shake it up a bit you can hit the

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dance floor on weekends and dance into the crazy Reykjavik night. If you are feeling lucky you can always spin the Wheel of Fortune. Must see that game in the English PL or the Champions League? You will be well taken care of at the American Bar. HD-screens and TVs in every corner make sure that you won’t miss one second of your favorite sport.

Inside and out—all day long With more than 100 seats inside and a great outdoor area on the sunny side (for those wonderful sunny Icelandic summer days) you will always find a seat at a good table. The outside area is truly remarkable, overlooking Dómkirkjan Cathedral and Alþingi (Parliament House). When you think of central Reykjavik this is it! The menu

is simple, yet delicious. The hamburgers, ribs and chicken wings are well-known to the locals for being unique and tasty. Lunch or dinner, live music or dancing, beer or cocktails; the American Bar has it all and is truly worth the visit!

Life is short—Drink early! Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

Never mind the chocolate, puffin dolls or the key ring. If you really want a souvenir that will last, a tattoo is the way to go.

WEBSTORE

You can also shop our merchandise and more at our shop or online at www.reykjavikink.is /reykjavikink

/reykjavikink

reykjavikink@reykjavikink.is

We are open Monday – Saturday 12 pm-8pm - We are located on Frakkastíg 7, 101 Reykjavík

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Base Hotel Hostel at Ásbrú

Valhallarbraut 756-757, 235 Reykjanesbær, Iceland Tel: +354 519 1300

It’s all about the Base

www.basehotel.is e-mail: basehotel@basehotel.is

The recently opened Base HotelHostel at Ásbrú is a budget accommodation conveniently located near Keflavik Airport on the Reykjanes Peninsula.

ase HotelHostel is at a former NATO base used by the US Army until 2006. The hotel is located in two buildings where US Army families once resided and it embraces the 55-year history of the army’s presence in Iceland in its overall theme, with quirky little touches and photographs. “We looked to the area’s history and decided to create a positive concept revolving around that history. A big part of the design process was

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creating a warm, comfortable and fun space that could hold all the modern art that’s now on display. To add to the challenge, everything we did must be low-cost and to keep costs down we kept a lot of the furniture that was left in the house. A good example of that are the rocking chairs found in most rooms, which were used by the army families during the military’s stay in Iceland,” says Leifur Welding, hotel designer.

PERFECT FOR STOPOVERS Base HotelHostel is perfect for short stopovers in Iceland and as a base for exploring the Reykjanes Peninsula and Southwest Iceland. The affordable rooms cater to all types of travelers. “Base Hotel has a lot to offer, the lone traveler just looking for a place to rest, the couple for a fun place to be, or the family needing more space. With our community kitchen, laundry room, TV lounges, library, game

“We looked to the area’s history and decided to create a positive concept revolving around that history. A big part of the design process was creating a warm, comfortable and fun space that could hold all the modern art that’s now on display.”

room, 24-hour reception and bar, and shuttle to and from the airport we try to meet everyone’s needs without abandoning our policy of being the most affordable accommodation in the area. The Base is not just a place to stay, it’s a place to live, even if it’s just for a few days,” says Base hotel manager Richard Eckard. At Base HotelHostel you’ll find hostel-style dorm rooms for the extremely cost conscious, suites

for the private but thrifty and anything in between for everyone else who just like to stay within their budget but still get a good night’s rest. YOUR BASE IN ICELAND Because the Base HotelHostel is located close to Keflavik Airport a lot of precious time is saved on arrivals and departures for those on a brief WOW Stopover in Iceland. This affords guests more time

to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula, a geologically young area displaying Iceland’s magnificent nature. From the Northern Lights to helicopter flights—whale watching to geothermal springs, the Reykjanes Peninsula’s got it all!

Base HotelHostel is at a former NATO base used by the US Army until 2006.

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VANTAJÖKULL REGION

THE ICE CAVES OF THE VATNAJÖKULL REGION A thunderous crack makes the mountainside shudder to our right, and as one we whip our heads around to locate the source of the sound. I’m expecting to see an avalanche of snow and ice tumbling down the mountains, and for the next minute our eyes rove across the shadowy peaks, but nothing moves. As the echoes fade and silence reclaims the valley, I turn to our guide. “That’s something you don’t hear every day,” he says, eyes gleaming with excitement. Text and photos / James Taylor

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The undulating hills on the coastal side of Jökulsárlón show that the glacier at one time almost reached the ocean; completely covering the glacier lagoon.

t’s a biting December morning in the Vatnajök ull Region of Iceland, and we’re hiking through a mess of boulders just east of Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. Our destination is a remote set of ice caves hiding beneath Breiðamerkurjökull, an outlet glacier of Vatnajökull, the largest ice cap in Europe. Our hike will take us over part of the glacier which covers 8% of Iceland, but which has been in retreat for the last 120 years. But that doesn’t mean hiking across it is any less exciting; we come upon deep crevasses, washed clean by the recent rains and glowing blue from

at one time almost reached the ocean; completely covering the glacier lagoon. After an hour, we descend to the shores of Jökuls árlón, finding ourselves in front of a dark entrance. Without hesitation, we charge into the ice realm under the glacier. Our headlamps illuminate crystal walls of deep blue with streaks of black ash encased inside from volcanic eruptions. The walls are pockmarked, and water drips off the ice where it curves and twists into sculptured waves. Up ahead, we come across the first of many holes in the roof that lets light in from above, revealing

That fading light means the end of our time in the caves, but there’s one more surprise for us before the end. On top of the glacier again, our guide abruptly stops and points at the mountains ahead.

within, and spirals of air lie underfoot frozen in the clear ice. Soon we’re all warmed up, and as we crunch across the glacier in single file, the sun pokes its head out from behind a blanket of clouds, bathing Jökulsárlón below in a soft golden light. Another resounding crack sounds from over the next rise; part of the glacier breaking off and crashing into the lagoon. INSIDE THE GLACIER Forever retreating and advancing, you can trace the history of the glacier across the plain. When it moves forward, it pushes the volcanic soil in front of it into small mounds, known as glacial waves, which can be seen rolling across the landscape back towards the south. The undulating hills on the coastal side of Jökulsárlón show that the glacier

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a dazzling spectrum of blues. Ledges curl along the walls, and every so often there’s a shaft of light that pierces the gloom. It’s an icy world of light and shadow. A NATURAL WONDER We have the cave to ourselves, and our guide shows us where we can take ideal photos without disturbing too much of the natural environment. Making our way to the back, we arrive at a ledge underneath a wide hole in the roof which shows just how far beneath the surface we are. These caves are entirely natural, formed by the constant movement of the glacier; from the spring thaw that melts the ice and releases rivers, to the volcanic activity that bubbles deep within. The running water erodes the existing structures

and carves out new caves, different every year. The second cave is much shorter, far brighter, and equally as spellbinding; we stand for a long time at the end admiring the light playing off the walls and taking photos. With ample time to enjoy both caves, we’re able to study the intricate details that play out in the ice. A beautiful azure archway circles over the entrance, contrasted by an oval patch of darker ice just next to it. Underfoot, a shallow stream still trickles over the ice, a remnant of the river that rushes through during the warmer months. Through the entrance, the sun sinks below the horizon, and we watch in silence as the light is reflected in a thousand hues off the walls around us. That fading light means the end of our time in the caves, but there’s one more surprise for us before the end. On top of the glacier again, our guide abruptly stops and points at the mountains ahead. “Look there—you can see some of the glacier beneath the rock that hasn’t melted!” he says. Sure enough, stretches of the glacier can be seen beneath the scree, left behind in the retreat; ready to join when the advance comes again.

Do not explore ice caves without a licensed guide and the appropriate gear. For more information on the Vatnajokull Region and ice caving, go to www.visitvatnajokull.is.

Spend the night at a snow-powered hotel In Iceland, all electricity is generated from renewable sources; falling water, the heat of the earth and the force of the wind. Welcome to the land of renewable energy. landsvirkjun.com/visitus

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32 discount stores around Iceland Ísafjörður

Akureyri 2 stores

FIND YOUR Stykkishólmur

STORE Borgarnes Akranes Geysir

Gullfoss

Hveragerði Reykjavík Reykjanesbær Kópavogur 2 stores

Garðabær Hafnarfjörður Mosfellsbær

Selfoss

Seljalandsfoss

20 stores

Skógafoss 74

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Vestmannaeyjar

Reynisfjara

Voted most popular company in Iceland

2014 - 2015 - 2016

Chosen by the Icelandic Buisness Magazine

2014

2015

Egilsstaรฐir

HOURS

OPENING

2016

Monday-Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

11:00 - 18:30 10:00 - 19:30 10:00 - 18:00 12:00 - 18:00 Issue on 75

WOW Designs

Halldóra Sif Guðlaugsdóttir is a fashion designer based in Iceland designing under her brand name Sif Benedicta. Her primary focus is on luxury handbags, clutches and accessories and her first collection is called Benedicta‘s Room. Photos: Courtesy of Sif Benedicta Halldóra Sif Guðlaugsdóttir.

hen I was 20 years old I moved to Denmark to study women’s tailoring. There I discovered that I enjoyed the design process far more than the technical aspect of it, even though I think it is vital to understand the garment to be a good designer. This experience abroad was a perfect start for me,” Halldora tells us. WORKING FOR ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Halldora moved back home to Iceland to study fashion design in the Icelandic Academy of Art in Reykjavik and graduated in 2015 with a first class degree in womenswear. “Upon graduation, on behalf of our school, I was selected to participate in the fashion competition, Designer’s Nest, in Denmark during Copenhagen Fashion Week. After graduation, I desperately wanted to work for one of my favorite designers, so I applied and got a trainee position assisting the tailoring and Flou division at Alexander McQueen in London as well as helping the shoe departments before the show SS17 and Pre SS17. I am very grateful for my time there. It was amazing to have worked with such a group of talented people.” SIF BENEDICTA EMERGES Sif Benedicta is Halldora’s brand name, and she specializes in luxury handbags, clutches and accessories. “I have always loved to draw accessories, and I thought it was time for me to see my drawings and ideas come to life. For a long time, I have wanted to create my own brand, but I wasn’t ready until now,” Halldora admits. “My first collection is called Benedicta’s Room and has four different types of handbags: The Weekend Bag, The Box Bag, The Red Flower

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and The Black Chain. Also, we have two other accessories in the collection, The Box Necklace for cards and cash and two types of silk scarves,” she explains. It was important to Halldora that her production was responsibly made. “That’s why I chose to manufacture and produce almost everything in Italy where I visited my suppliers and manufacturer’s workshops and have gotten to know all of them well. My goal is to create things that are beautiful on the inside as well as on the outside.” SLOW DOWN FASHION “When I lived in London, my favorite thing was going to vintage markets with my friends, especially Portabello market in Notting Hill. There were so many beautiful, well-made things, all kinds of accessories, handbags, necklaces, earrings etc. I started to wonder about the mass production and consumerism of today that moves so quickly, resulting in

Halldora has begun work on her next collection and tells us that she wants to add some new accessories like belts and earrings, and of course, some new types of bags.

products being made improperly. The speed is so great that it is impossible to create wellmade items. It inspired me to create beautiful things that would last, things that people actually care about,” Halldóra tells us. “I would rather make fewer well-made things than mass produce badly made things,” she adds. Halldora’s designs are colorful with a focus on the details, and she works mostly with calfskin, horn, brass, plexiglass and silk. “I want all my products to last for a very long time. My goal is for a mother to pass down a well-loved handbag to her daughter or a loved one,” says Halldora. The inspiration for Halldora’s first collection, Benedicta’s Room, comes from 60s pop art, colors and forms from Art Deco and Art Nouveau. “I like to work with unexpected colors where small details become highlights,” Halldora explains. Halldora has begun work on her next collection and tells us that she wants to add some new accessories like belts and earrings, and of course, some new types of bags.

The Sif Benedicta collection is available at www.sifbenedicta.com and at Halldora’s studio on Laugavegur 105 in Reykjavik.

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The festival at the edge of the world Much like physical albums have mostly given way to digital streaming, music festivals abound these day taking a large chunk out of the touring pie as revenue streams in the music industry rapidly shift around in fresh and preÂviously unexplored ways. But as the festival concept grows ever stronger, competition allows only the fittest festivals to survive. by Bogi Bjarnason Photos: Hjalti Ă rnason

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n this battle for the music lover’s billfold, it helps if you have carved out a niche. You could do worse than having cultivated a rabid following for over a decade. And it’s certainly an added bonus when your festival is praised as a shining beacon to other events for its friendly atmosphere and near total lack of physical and sexual assaults. All this, and so much more, is what makes the Eistnaflug Festival such an enduring endeavor, and it can all be neatly summarized in the festival’s motto: “No idiots allowed!”

HUMBLE BEGINNINGS When P.E. teacher Stefán Magnússon created the festival—originally as a one-day event—back in 2005, he had no idea of the legacy he would spawn. He was merely a bored metalhead who’d accepted a job on the other side of the country, in a village of 1,400 people, where recreational activities were few and far between. But the festival rapidly grew like a sweat stain during a manic mosh pit. And, as the world caught on, it transformed from the single day format at its original haunt Egilsbúð, to a four-day affair incorporating a main stage at the local sports arena, featuring up to forty bands from Iceland and across the globe. A DESTINATION FESTIVAL Set in the quaint hamlet of Neskaupstaður, deep in the mountainous range of fjords that serrate the eastern shore of Iceland like a row of shark teeth, the Eistnaflug Festival experience has always been equal part dashing destination and raucous event. Yes, you can just as well catch Neurosis in the suffocating dust at Hellfest or enjoy Opeth while knee-deep in the muddy fields of Wacken Open Air, but nowhere except on the way to Eistnaflug will the road trip there take you along black sand beaches as it does along Iceland’s south coast, while waterfalls fly by the car window and you be able to take lunch where icebergs can be seen bumping together like

Headbanger’s remorse is a real thing, and the term “Sunday, fun day!” is one you will never hear bandied about on the campsites of Neskaupstaður on the morning after DJ Töfri leads the raging party into the wee hours of Saturday night.

errant bodies in a concert crowd. Nowhere but at Eistnaflug are you a part of the clique simply by showing up, and nowhere except Neskaupstaður does the sun never set on the head-banging hordes from the strumming of the first riff to the clashing of the final crescendo. GOOD VIBRATIONS The concept of the Eistnaflug Festival has always been heavy metal of the more extreme variety. Well that, and the encompassing atmosphere of comradery, of course. Part of that friendly vibe is the inclusiveness of cultures and genres outside of light speed blast beats and gratuitously thrown devil horns. Meaning; that every year the festival line-up includes countless acts of a less abrasive nature that run the gamut of Icelandic popular—and not so popular—music; from hip-hop ensembles Úlfur Úlfur and Reykjavíkurdætur, to indie sweethearts Mammút and the dance-inducing performances of Retro Stefson. Away from the infernal din of the main venue, the local swimming pool is a daily staple of the Eistnaflug experience, where bands and fans alike congregate to wash away the sins of nights past and exorcise the hangover demon in its steamy sauna and multiple hot tubs. And once body and soul are thoroughly cleansed, it’s off to The Bait Shack to feast on the best pizza east of Egilsstaðir, and getting to work on tomorrow morning’s hangover under the thrashing chords of whoever is rocking the restaurant’s off-venue stage at that very moment. During off-schedule hours, or while the inevitable Skálmöld set goes down, off-venue activities abound. Small shows pop-up in defunct pizza joints and derelict foundries, while panels and previews of all things metal quench the thirst of the curious in erstwhile conference rooms and hotel lobbies. For those inclined to break a sweat and explore the natural wonders of Norðfjörður, there is the Annual Eistnaflug Open Disc Golf Tournament, set on a 9-hole course halfway up the steep hills above Neskaupstaður, whose claim to fame is that it’s the only course of its kind nestled atop an avalanche barrier. SUNDAY, BLOODY SUNDAY Headbanger’s remorse is a real thing, and the term “Sunday, fun day!” is one you will never hear bandied about on the campsites of Neskaupstaður on the morning after DJ Töfri leads the raging party into the wee hours of Saturday night. It is with a throbbing head that you enter the treacherous Norðfjarðargöng Tunnel on top of the mountain pass to Eskifjörður—emerging out the rabbit hole, as it were—back into the doldrums of everyday life. Now you have nothing to look forward to for a whole year, except, of course, the drive back through the spectacular Mývatnssveit Lake District, the ominous Dimmuborgir rock formations and a multitude of other natural phenomena too numerous to mention. If flying is your fancy you’ll have to “settle” for the view of one of Europe’s largest glaciers, Vatnajökull, gliding by under the wings of your plane. A major bummer indeed.

Eistnaflug 2018 will be held on July 11-14. Go to www.eistnaflug.is for more information about the line-up, accommodation and tickets. And of course, you’ll find cheap flights to Iceland at wowair.com.

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WOW jet-setting

Packing, made easy Forget an essential item, like an international power adapter, and you’re left scrambling to find the nearest store to buy one at your destination. Pack too much and you’ll be burdened with heavy bags. Check out these seven basic packing strategies for a more WOW traveling experience. by Cindy-Lou Dale

Draw up your packing list, which is to include essential items, toiletries, medication, and clothes. 1. WHAT TO PACK Select clothes in the same color family, packing more tops than bottoms. Choose knits, wools, and cotton. These fabrics tend to resist wrinkles and are versatile. Roll underwear, T-shirts, jeans, cotton pants, and knitwear—they won’t wrinkle when rolled tightly. Take no more than three pairs of shoes— casual, sneakers and evening. Wear the heaviest pair and pack the other two, stuffing them with ziplocked items like sunglasses, electronics chargers and underwear. Place each shoe into a Ziploc bag so as not to damage/soil clothing. Placing a few fabric conditioning sheets among your clothes which will keep them smelling sweet for the whole trip. 2. GET A STASH OF ZIPLOC BAGS These babies go a long way to get your bag organized. Have one Ziploc

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bag for your cables, another for your chargers and adapters, one for medication and one for things for the journey home, like house keys, parking ticket and car keys. 3. TOILETRIES Check with your destination hotel first, but you may find you could halve the contents of your toiletries bag as most of the basics are provided by the hotel. Alternatively, pack mini travel-sized items like deodorant, shampoo and body wash in one, toothpaste, mouthwash, etc. To prevent liquid leaks, remove lids from liquid bottles and add a layer of cling-film to the neck of the container before replacing the lid. Then use clear tape to seal the gap where the lid joins the container. 4. LEAVE THE BOOKS AT HOME If you need to read a book, get an e-reader instead of carrying around a bulky book. If you want to follow the advice of a guidebook, photocopy the relevant pages then follow directions via Google Maps.

5. VALUABLES To avoid the worst-case scenario of being robbed, it’s best to be inconspicuous and avoid flashing the cash. If you’re on the beach and you really must go for a swim, hide your money in an empty suntan lotion container. 6. WEIGH YOUR LUGGAGE Before you begin packing check the baggage policy. Invest in some lugg age scales and make sure you weigh your bags on both legs of the journey to see how close you are to reaching the weight limit. And remember, baggage allowance can vary from airline to airline. Should you be getting a connecting flight, make sure you are aware of their limits too. 7. MAKE YOUR SUITCASE DISTINGUISHABLE Don’t be faced with an airport baggage carousel crisis where you’re searching for your luggage amid its identical neighbors. Label your suitcase carefully with distinctive luggage tags and make sure you

give it a bit of a makeover to stand out in the crowd. Also, remember to remove all baggage tags or stickers from previous flights, and label your bag inside and out with your name, destination address, and mobile phone number.

Pack too much and you’ll be burdened with heavy bags. Check out these seven basic packing strategies for a more WOW traveling experience.

THE HOME OF ICELANDIC SEAFOOD AND LAMB APOTEK Kitchen+Bar is a casual-smart restaurant located in one of Reykjavíks most historical buildings. We specialize in fresh seafood and local ingredients prepared with a modern twist. HAND LUGGAGE Avoid the hassle of losing your boarding pass by using the App, and download your boarding pass onto your mobile phone. If you need to take medication, including liquid medication or syr inges, pack it in your hand baggage (in its original packaging, if possible). To avoid delays at airport security, take a prescription or supporting letter from your doctor that confirms it is prescribed to you. On the off chance of your luggage going missing, be sure to carry a couple of day’s supply in your hand luggage. Follow the airport security’s guide lines in regards to liquids, gels, aerosols and food. Be sure all electrical or batterypowered devices such as phones, tablets, cameras, e-books and laptops are fully charged as airport security may ask you to switch them on.

It’s with the “essentials” most of us get it wrong when doing lastminute packing:

APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR

Austurstræti 16

101 Reykjavík

apotek@apotekrestaurant.is

apotek.is

Passports/visas. Plus copies, which should be placed inside your checked in luggage Electronic copies of travel insurance documents Electronic and physical tickets/boarding passes Itineraries, including accommodation address details Local currency and credit/ debit cards Mobile phone, plus details of mobile phone package being used abroad Tablet/iPad/e-book/ camera, plus chargers for all electronic devices, including an international travel adapter and a USB charger Medication

Issue on 81

What the smell?! The Thorri (Þorri) is once again upon us in Iceland; a stinky season accompanied by weird days like Husband’s Day and Thorri’s Slave. Keep reading; it gets weirder. by Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir Photos: iStockphoto.com and from WOW air‘s collection

horri (a name most likely derived from Thor, the God of Thunder) is the fourth month of winter in the old Icelandic calendar. It begins on the third Friday in January, which is traditionally celebrated as Husband’s Day and fell on January 19th this year. Hus bands get special treatment on this day, usually in the form of craft beer or fancy ties but what ensues for the rest of Thorri is more eccentric, to say the least.

While these dishes are not all made equally terrible you might want a little guidance to navigate through these monstrosities should you ever find yourself at an Icelandic Thorrithemed buffet.

ARE YOU GOING TO EAT THAT? Icelanders celebrate good old Thorri with buffets of traditional Icelandic food. If you’ve heard rumors about the horrors of

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Icelandic dried fish called Harðfiskur. Photo: iStock / LiljaKristjansdottir.

old-school Icelandic cuisine, they’re probably all true, and these buffets are our annual proof. They include some truly awful dishes that only the oldest generations and hipster patriots who walk among us will claim to love, but in truth, most of us just love to taste them once a year for sport and a sense of atmospheric duty. While these dishes are not all made equally terrible you might want a little guidance to navigate through these monstrosities should you ever find yourself at an Icelandic Thorrithemed buffet. Now as with cilantro, people are of two minds as to what constitutes as tasty here. There are those who prefer singed sheep head to dried fish and don’t mind making eye contact

NORTHERN LIGHTS BY BOAT THE ORIGINAL NORTHERN LIGHTS BY BOAT TOUR

Cuts of shark meat hung for fermenting and drying.

For novelty purposes and Instagram-fame try the singed and boiled sheep head, sviðasulta (sheep face jelly), sour liver saus age, sour blood sausage, sour sheep face jelly, fermented shark and fermented skate.

R TO U G IN W AT CH LE HA W

Free Wi-Fi Pickup Service Warm Overalls

TR Y

If you really want to dig deep and get into the mindset of (9th century) Icelanders, by all means, check out these Thorri buffets (Þorrablót in Icelandic). If not, take the easy route and make yourself a starter plate with smoked lamb, flatbread, laufabrauð, mashed rutabagas, dried fish with Icelandic butter and wash it down with some delicious Maltöl or beer.

Stack up on dried fish with real Icelandic butter (50/50), mashed or boiled potato, laufabrauð (thin crispy fried bread), rye bread, flatkökur (thin, soft unleavened bread), smoked lamb, boiled salt-meat, peas, salad with cream and fruit, blood sausage and liver sausage.

Keep at least 5 feet between you and sour ram’s testicles (formed into a sliceable ‘loaf’), sour seal flipper, sour minke whale blubber, whole boiled sheep’s feet and putrefied seabird eggs. It should be pointed out that the final four items on the list are increasingly rare and some of them, regional.

with their meal. Others might retch at the thought of ram testicles in the vicinity of their plate, but wouldn’t mind giving a seal’s flipp er a high-five before devouring it. So it goes and each to their own... What follows is a list of the usual suspects at the notorious Thorri-buffet and tips based on the personal taste of the author:

If this article got the best of you and you just want to forget you ever read it, then find the next Domino’s (or any restaurant in Reykjavik basically) and celebrate Thorri like a normal person. No judgement!

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Issue on 83

Pour remplir ce formulaire, utilisez uniquement des majuscules. Si vous faites une erreur, notre personnel vous donnera un nouveau formulaire.

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom

Chaque voyageur entrant ou chef de famille entrant doit fournir les informations suivantes (UNE SEULE déclaration par famille)

What is this and why do I need to fill this out? Before you arrive in the U.S., you will need to fill out the US Customs Declaration Form. If you‘re traveling with your family only the head of the family needs to fill out the form. When you arrive on US soil you will hand this form to the U.S. Customs agent.

Français Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Qu’est-ce que c’est et pourquoi dois-je en remplir un? Avant votre arrivée aux États-Unis, vous devrez remplir le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine. Si vous voyagez avec votre famille, seul le chef de famille doit le remplir. Lorsque vous arrivez sur le sol américain, vous donnez ce formulaire aux autorités douanières américaines. Si vous voyagez avec des fruits, nous vous recommandons de les jeter avant ou pendant votre vol vers les États-Unis mais que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « oui » à l’une de ces questions ? Ce n’est pas aussi terrible que ça en a l’air et dire la vérité vous évitera pas mal d’ennuis et une amende pouvant aller jusqu’à 300 $. Consultez la page 88 pour obtenir plus d’informations si vous répondez « OUI ».

Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom.

Date de naissance Jour/Mois/Année.

Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous.

(a) Adresse Aux États-Unis (Destination ou nom de l‘hôtel) (b) Ville (c) Etat

Lieu de délivrace du passeport (nom du pays)

Numéro de passeport

Pays de résidence

Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l‘arrivée aux aux Etats-Unis

9. Ligne aérienne / numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau 10. Vous voyagez pour raison d‘affaires: OUI/NON 11.

Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de (a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes: OUI/NON (b) viandes, animaux, produits provenant d‘animaux ou d’animaux sauvages: OUI/NON (c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots: OUI/NON

E A R LY B I R D C AT C H E S After her time in Iceland, Naomi arrives early at the airport so she can enjoy her last hours there before continuing her journey.

GIVE YOUR SELF MORE TIME TO SHOP

W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S

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This Space For Official Use Only

U.S. Customs and Border Protection Welcomes You to the United States

(d) terre. J‘ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis: OUI/NON

12. J‘ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail: OUI/NON 13.

Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d‘espèces ou d‘instruments monétaires d‘une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d‘instruments monétaire au verso) á plus de 10 000$ US: OUI/NON

14.

Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstration ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels): OUI/NON

15.

Résidents - la valeur totale des biens, y compris la marchandise commerciale, que j’ai/nous avons achetés ou acquis à l’étranger (y compris les cadeaux pour une autre personne, mais pas les articles envoyés aux États-Unis) et que je/ nous rapportons aux États-Unisest de: montant en USD

Customs Declaration

FORM APPROVED OMB NO.1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110, 148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required). The term "family" is defined as "members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption." 1 Family Name Middle

First (Given) 2 Birth date

Month

Day

Year

3 Number of Family members traveling with you 4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination) (b) City 5 Passport issued by (country) 6 Passport number 7 Country of Residence 8 Countries visited on this trip prior to U.S. arrival 9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name Yes

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects:

Yes

(b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products:

Yes

(d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture:

Yes

12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock: Yes

11 I am (We are) bringing

(such as touching or handling) 13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent:

Yes

(see definition of monetary instruments on reverse) 14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise: (articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders, or goods that are not considered personal effects)

Visiteurs - La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis, y compris la marchandise commerciale est de : USD Signez sur la ligne pour déclarer que votre déclaration est véridique.

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else but not items mailed to $ the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is: VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is:

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare. I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

X Signature

Deutsch

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Was ist das und warum muss ich dieses Formular ausfüllen? Vor der Ankunft in den USA müssen Sie das Formular der US-Zoller klärung ausfüllen. Wenn Sie mit Ihrer Familie unterwegs sind, braucht nur das Familienoberhaupt dieses Formular ausfüllen. Wenn Sie US-Boden betreten, übergeben Sie dieses Formular dem US-Zoll.

10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

U.S. Customs and Border Protection is responsible for protecting the United States against the illegal importation of prohibited items. CBP officers have the authority to question you and to examine you and your personal property. If you are one of the travelers selected for an examination, you will be treated in a courteous, professional, and dignified manner. CBP Supervisors and Passenger Service Representatives are available to answer your questions. Comment cards are available to compliment or provide feedback. Important Information U.S. Residents—declare all articles that you have acquired abroad and are bringing into the United States. Visitors (Non-Residents)—Declare the value of all articles that will remain in the United States. Declare all articles on this declaration form and show the value in U.S. dollars. For gifts, please indicate the retail value. Duty—CBP officers will determine duty. U.S. residents are normally entitled to a duty-free exemption of $800 on items accompanying them. Visitors (non-residents) are normally entitled to an exemption of $100. Duty will be assessed at the current rate on the first $1,000 above the exemption. Agricultural and Wildlife Products—To prevent the entry of dangerous agricultural pests and prohibited wildlife, the following are restricted: Fruits, vegetables, plants, plant products, soil, meat, meat products, birds, snails, and other live animals or animal products. Failure to declare such items to a Customs and Border Protection Officer/ Customs and Border Protection Agriculture Specialist/Fish and Wildlife Inspector can result in penalties and the items may be subject to seizure. Controlled substances, obscene articles, and toxic substances are generally prohibited entry.

Date (month/day/year)

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

The transportation of currency or monetary instruments, regardless of the amount, is legal. However, if you bring in to or take out of the United States more than $10,000 (U.S. or foreign equivalent, or a combination of both), you are required by law to file a report on FinCEN 105 (formerly Customs Form 4790) with U.S. Customs and Border Protection. Monetary instruments include coin, currency, travelers checks and bearer instruments such as personal or cashiers checks and stocks and bonds. If you have someone else carry the currency or monetary instrument for you, you must also file a report on FinCEN 105. Failure to file the required report or failure to report the total amount that you are carrying may lead to the seizure of all the currency or monetary instruments, and may subject you to civil penalties and/or criminal prosecution. SIGN ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THIS FORM AFTER YOU HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOVE AND MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

Wenn Sie auf Ihrer Reise Obst mit sich führen, empfehlen wir Ihnen, dies vor oder während dem Flug in die USA zu entsorgen. Aber was geschieht, wenn Sie eine dieser Fragen mit Ja beantworten? Das ist nicht so schrecklich, wie Sie vielleicht denken, und Ehrlichkeit spart Ihnen eine Menge Ärger und eine mögliche Geldstrafe von bis zu 300$. Siehe Seite 88 für weitere Informationen zur Antwort JA.

Bitte verwenden Sie beim Ausfüllen dieses Formulars nur Großbuchstaben. Falls Sie einen Fehler machen wird Ihnen unsere Crew ein neues CBP Description of Articles (List may continue on another CBP Form 6059B) Value Use Only Formular geben. Jeder ankommende Reisende bzw. jedes verantwortliche Familienmitglied muss die folgenden Angaben machen (es ist pro Familie nur EINE schriftliche Erklärung erforderlich) 1.

Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname

Geburtsdatum / Tag/Monat/Jahr

Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder

(a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels/Reiseziel) (b) Stadt CBP Form 6059B (04/14) (c) Staat

Total

PAPERWORK REDUCTION ACT STATEMENT: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and a person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays a current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0009. The estimated average time to complete this application is 4 minutes. Your response is mandatory. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection Office of Regulations and Rulings, 90 K Street, NE, 10th Floor, Washington, DC 20229.

MORE TIME FOR SHOPPING To remember her time in Iceland, she brings back home unique souvenirs that she bought at the airport.

Issue on 85

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom 5.

Pass ausgestellt von (Land)

Passnummer

Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land)

Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA

(c) Krakheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken: JA/NEIN (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/ einer Ranch/ Weide: JA/NEIN 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/ Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit): JA/NEIN

9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes 10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich: JA/NEIN 11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten: JA/NEIN (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte: JA/NEIN

13.

Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit (Siehe die Definition von Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN

14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von

Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN

15.

US-Bürger - der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschließlich Handelswaren die ich/wir erworben habe(n) oder im Ausland erworben habe(n) (einschließlich Geschenke für andere, nicht aber Sendungen in die USA) und in die USA einführe(n) lautet: Betrag in US-$ Besucher - der Gesamtwert aller Artikel einschließlich Handelswaren, die in den USA verbleiben ist: $

Auf der Linie unterschreiben, um zu erklären, dass Sie eine wahrheitsgemäße Erklärung abgeben.

What happens if you say “Yes”? Sometimes we just want to avoid trouble and think that saying NO to everything will make things easier. That’s not the case and in fact, it can even cause more problems, delays and even fines. Be truthful on your Customs Declaration form and all will be good. Worst case scenario they’ll confiscate your banana but we promise you can buy a new one once you’re out of the airport. Yes to 11 (a), (b) or (c) Your customs officer will refer you to an agricultural specialist who will ask you additional questions and might ask to inspect your food items. In many cases, you’ll be allowed to take your food with you. This often depends on where you got the food and how it’s been processed. Fruits, vegetables and raw meats are usually confiscated. You can research ahead of time at canibringit.com which is a U.S. Government run site. Yes to 11 (d) and/or no. 12: An agricultural specialist will ask to inspect the soil or clothes, shoes or luggage that has been in contact with livestock or farm soil to determine if they contain any dangerous organisms. If they find potentially dangerous substances they will disinfect your items before allowing you to bring them in. For bringing soil into the US, you need a permit. Yes to no. 13 or 14: If you are carrying currency worth over $10,000 you will simply be given a special form to fill out for the Treasury Department. For items intended for sale, you should have already filed a “formal entry” before embarking on your journey. You could do so “on the spot” but these matters are subject to many rules and regulations and can be complicated.

Français

Deutsch

Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « OUI » ?

Was passiert, wenn Sie JA sagen?

Certaines personnes semblent penser que répondre « non » à toutes les réponses leur évitera des ennuis. Ce n’est pas le cas et en fait, cela peut même vous causer plus de problèmes, des retards et des amendes. Dites la vérité sur votre formulaire de déclaration en douane et tout ira bien. Dans le pire des cas, ils confisqueront votre banane mais promis, vous pourrez en acheter une nouvelle à votre arrivée à l’aéroport.

Einige Leute nehmen an, dass sie keinerlei Ärger bekommen, wenn sie überall NEIN sagen. Das ist nicht so. Tatsächlich kann dies sogar mehr Probleme, Verzögerungen und sogar Geldbußen verursachen. Seien Sie bei Ihrer Zollerklärung ehrlich, und alles wird gut. Im schlimmsten Fall konfisziert man Ihre Banane, aber wir versprechen Ihnen, dass Sie sich eine neue kaufen können, sobald Sie den Flughafen verlassen haben.

Oui aux questions 11 (a), (b) ou (c) Votre agent douanier vous dirigera vers un spécialiste agricole qui vous posera des questions supplémentaires et qui pourra inspecter vos fruits. Dans de nombreux cas, vous sera autorisé à garder votre nourriture. Cela dépend souvent de la provenance la nourriture et de la façon dont elle a été transformée. Les fruits, les légumes et la viande crue sont généralement confisqués. Vous pouvez faire des recherches avant de partir sur le site canibright.com qui est un site du gouvernement américain. Oui aux questions 11 (d) et/ou 12 : Un spécialiste agricole inspectera la terre ou les vêtements, les chaussures ou les bagages qui ont été en contact avec du bétail ou le sol d’une ferme pour déterminer la présence d’organismes dangereux. S’il trouve des substances potentiellement dangereuses, il désinfectera vos objets avant de vous laisser les garder. Pour importer de la terre aux États-Unis, il vous faut un permis. Oui aux questions 13 ou 14 : Si vous transportez des devises d’une valeur supérieure à 10 000 $, vous devrez simplement remplir un formulaire spécial pour le ministère des finances. Pour les objets destinés à être vendus, vous devriez déjà avoir rempli un « formulaire d’entrée officielle » avant de prendre votre vol. Vous pouvez faire cela sur place mais ce genre de chose est soumis à de nombreuses règles et règlementations et peut être compliqué.

WOW Power to the people

Ja zu 11 (a), (b) oder (c) Ihr Zollbeamter wird Sie an einen Spezialisten für landwirtschaftliche Produkte weiterverweisen, der Ihnen zusätzliche Fragen stellen wird und evtl. darum bittet, Ihre Lebensmittel inspizieren zu dürfen. In vielen Fällen wird man Ihnen erlauben, Ihr Essen mitzunehmen. Oft hängt es davon ab, wo Sie die Lebensmittel erworben haben und wie sie verarbeitet wurden. Obst, Gemüse und rohes Fleisch werden in der Regel beschlagnahmt. Sie können vor Abflug auf der Website der US-Regierung canibringit.com nachlesen, was erlaubt ist. Ja bei 11 (d) und/oder Nr. 12: Ein Spezialist für landwirtschaftliche Produkte wird Sie darum bitten, die Erde oder die Kleidung, Schuhe oder das Gepäck inspizieren zu dürfen, welche(s) in Kontakt mit Tieren oder landwirtschaftlichem Boden war, um zu bestimmen, ob diese gefährliche Organismen enthalten. Wenn er potenziell gefährliche Stoffe findet, werden Ihre Gegenstände desinfiziert, bevor Sie die Erlaubnis erhalten, diese einzuführen. Für das Einführen von Erde in die USA benötigen Sie eine Genehmigung. Ja bei Nr. 13 oder 14: Wenn Sie Bargeld im Wert von mehr als $10.000 mit sich führen, erhalten Sie einfach ein besonderes Formular, das Sie für das US Finanzministerium ausfüllen müssen. Für Gegenstände, die für den Verkauf vorgesehen sind, sollten Sie bereits vor Ihrer Abreise eine „formelle Einfuhrgenehmigung“ einholen. Sie tun könnten dies auch „vor Ort“ erledigen, aber diese Vorgänge unterliegen vielen Regeln und können sehr kompliziert sein.

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Issue on 87

Middle East Metropolis

Exploring Tel Aviv in 48 Hours Tel Aviv: a rainbow metropolis, a new city. A curious place, a secular second city, riding its colorful flag high, contrasting the most ancient and holy of holy. by Alexandra Pereira Photos: iStockphoto.com

ust how did it come to be such a forward-thinking place with a remarkably evident focus of its history? The past is so much a part of any trip to Israel, but the future is pumping throughout the city of Tel Aviv. It’s ever-changing, every colorful, ever sunkissed—and the perfect winter break for any intrepid adventurer with a thirst for knowledge, stories, vibrant human spirit and quite simply, a holiday to treasure.

WOW Power to the people

HOSPITALITY AND HEDONISM Tel Aviv’s appeal lies not only in its free dom flag but in the array of stuff to do, no matter your age, interests, preferences or desires. There’s quite literally some thing for everyone, and Israelis are so hospitable and encyclopedic that you’d never be lost or bored. Everyone wants to show you the very best of their city, so prepare for early mornings and late nights to fit all the treasures in. Bask in the hot Middle Eastern sun, taking

The past is so much a part of any trip to Israel, but the future is pumping throughout the city of Tel Aviv. It’s ever-changing, every colorful, ever sunkissed—and the perfect winter break for any intrepid adventurer with a thirst for knowledge, stories, vibrant human spirit and quite simply, a holiday to treasure.

breaks at magnificent, huge historical muse ums and abundant art galleries, splash in the Mediterranean waters, dine and drink at world-class restaurants and bars, and dance until sunrise. WHERE ANCIENT MEETS CONTEMPORARY On arrival, clear skies as you circle to land will illustrate the differences in the two-inone city that lies below. Head to the old city of Jaffa and check into the boutique Market House Hotel, set on Byzantine chapel remains with palazzo flooring, glass features and sumptuous interiors. Its rooms allow for a short but restorative freshen-up nap on gargantuan soft beds before you fling open the shutters onto the dusky pink sky and ocean-line, peppered with sounds of the old town coming to life at night. Wear whatever is comfortable—Tel Avivians tend to be quite glamorous here and in nearby hipster hood Florentin—the temperatures are warm all year round, and there are no dress codes. Head ‘round the corner to Racha for a pre-din cardamom and hibiscus-infused mezcal

cocktail. Make your reservations ahead of time for a late dinner at Social Club on Rothschild Blvd, where the duck pappardelle will transport you to another universe. The vibe is elegant yet relaxed NYCinspired bistro with great lighting, friendly service and a culture based on sharing multiple starters (matchless hummus and flatbreads, grilled fish and everything else in between) with your fellow guests. For a nightcap digestive, sip on rose and black pepper gin and tonics at Puaa, draped in the nocturnal balm and lit by fairy lights and candles around Jaffa’s tiny, ornate streets. GASTRONOMICAL, ARCHITECTURAL HEAVEN In the morning, enjoy eggs shak shuka style in the hotel restaurant, and amazing local coffee and pastries with a side of fresh fruit. Hear the bustle of the local Shuk

Hapishpeshim flea market already in full swing, and drop in for some antique bits and pieces and contemporary artisan jewelry at great prices. Then head back to Rothschild Blvd in the brilliant daylight: magnificent architecture lines the broad streets, accentuated by Bauhaus buildings designed and erected by JewishGerman refugees in the wake of the war. Continue your day of being a culture vulture by hiring bikes and breezing along the seaside taking a quick dip or even a surfing lesson. Bow out of the hot sun once more with a visit to the epic TA Museum of Art and marvel over its vast col lections of modern and ancient art. Refresh yourself in the beautiful, opulent en suite bathroom back at your hotel; enjoy complimentary wine in the foyer before heading out for your second evening in the twinkling city that never rests.

Abraxas North or Salon are both steadfast options that combine traditional and modern cuisine in buzzing, sleek yet laid-back environments a hop, skip and a jump away via cab. At the former, food is served theatrically on paper or wood by Eyal Shani, one of the city’s most esteemed chefs. At Salon, the same kitchen star serves up exquisite racks of lamb that locals and tourists alike whisper about to no end. When in doubt, order catch of the day; you won’t be disappointed. If you’re in town on the weekend, check out the event listings at either Block or The Breakfast Club, two of Tel Aviv’s bona fide nightclubbing spots, where the tanned, toned and beautiful come to be just that. The vibe is part Miami, part NYC, part LA; you can feel the all-American influence in more than the glowing skins and teeth. EXTEND YOUR TRIP With time to spare, take a day trip out of Tel Aviv to the beautiful high-up city of Haifa, just north, and trips to Masada Mountain and the Dead Sea should also be made time for. Jerusalem needs another 48 hours but if you’re in the Holy Land, an extended trip to experience the history, the people, and the future of such a place, is well worth your time.

L’chaim! That’s cheers in Hebrew, and you’ll need it as locals will be stuffing you to the brim with food and drink from the minute you set foot in Tel Aviv. WOW air offers cheap flights to Israel three times a week, all year round. Book your flight at wowair.com.

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Castle stays of Scotland

King and queen of the castle From Pride and Prejudice to Wuthering Heights and Downton Abbey, there’s no doubting the timeless appeal of period dramas. So next time you’re in Scotland, why not star in your own by checking into one of these historic abodes? by Andrew Marshall Photos: Paul Marshall

here’s nothing more Scottish than the image of a castle surrounded by swirling mist— and what’s more, most of Scotland’s castles ooze a colorful and turbulent history, the stuff of swashbucklers, legends and ghost stories. All the classic imagery are here in abundance: secret passageways, spiral stair cases, dungeons, haunted rooms, four-poster beds, old oil paintings, chandeliers, suites of armor, stuffed game and roaring log fires. The good news is that you can spend the night at many of these castles. REGULAR HOTELS OR TOTAL LUXURY? Mainly, there are two types of castle hotels—those operated as regular hotels with rooms rented individually by the night and castles rented on an exclusive use basis, where your group will have sole occupancy as the only guests. These are usually smaller luxury castles, with several guest bedrooms, and it’s these that often offer the most personal castle experience. Here are seven of the best castle stays in different regions of Scotland.

Kinnettles Castle.

MODERN ROMANCE With its turrets and imposing towers, this five-star Scottish baronial mansion house set amid the rolling hills north of Dundee looks like something from a historical romance novel. Once inside, you’re greeted by sweeping staircases and grand fireplaces that contrast vividly to strikingly contemporary décor, from designer-chic bedrooms and a cutting-edge bar to the games room with poker table, roulette wheel and snooker table used during the 2006 World Championship in Sheffield. The bar at Kinnettles Castle.

Kinnettles Castles, Angus. www.kinnettlescastle.com

ANYONE FOR CROQUET? Set within a 44-acre estate only a 45-minute drive from Edinburgh, the original Myres Castle was a Z-plan fortress dating from the early 1500s which has been altered and extended over the years. Castle guests can enjoy all the usual country pursuits: fishing, clay-pigeon shooting, archery and even that old Tudor favorite, falconry. And don’t forget to pack your candy-striped blazer for a round of croquet on the perfectly manicured front lawn. Myres Castle offers both exclusive hire and luxury bed & breakfast accommodation. Myres Castle. Photo Credit: Myres Castle

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Myres Castle, Fife. www.myrescastle.co.uk

There’s nothing more Scottish than the image of a castle surrounded by swirling mist— and what’s more, most of Scotland’s castles ooze a colorful and turbulent history, the stuff of swashbucklers, legends and ghost stories.

STAIRWAY TO CASTLE HEAVEN Anticipation builds as you drive the wooded approach towards Culzean Castle. Designed by noted Scottish architect Robert Adam, this storybook Georgian castle stands dramatically on a rocky promontory on the Ayrshire coast, with spectacu lar views across the sea to the mountains of Arran and Mull of Kintyre. Highlights include the Circular Saloon, the clematis-draped 17th-century walled garden, a swan pond for genteel walks and real-life smugglers’ caves beneath the castle. On the upper floors is the Eisenhower Hotel with a selection of guestrooms arranged around the magnificent Oval Staircase. Culzean Castle, Ayrshire. www.culzean-eisenhower.com

Culzean Castle.

TOWER ABOVE Originally built in the mid-16th century, this ancient monument was in virtual ruins when Ian Simpson and his life-long friend John Macaskill decided to start Fenton Tower’s restoration in the late 1990s. Historic Scotland supervised the meticulous restoration of this Category A-listed building which included using identical materials initially used. Today, the tower combines five-star luxury and sophistication with the informality of a private home and is available for exclusive rental for up to 13 guests. Located just 20 miles east of Edinburgh, Fenton Tower is the castle of choice if you are interested in playing any of the dozen or so excellent golf courses within a ten-mile drive. Fenton Tower.

Fenton Tower, East Lothian. www.fentontower.com Photo Credit: Fenton Tower

HIGHLAND FLING This 15th-century castle hotel in the Highland region situated in beautiful gardens (worthy of any BBC period drama) opposite the inspiring 12th-century Dornoch Cathedral is steeped in history and stories of witchcraft. The castle is connected to the cathedral by a secret underground passageway allegedly haunted by a harmless ghost, an unhappy sheep thief who was imprisoned in the vaulted dungeons below the tower. To spare no expense, book one of the deluxe rooms with hand-carved four-poster beds, open log fires and spa baths hidden away in the oldest part of the castle. Dornoch Castle Hotel. Photo Credit: Visit Scotland/Scottish Viewpoint

Dornoch Castle Hotel, Highlands. www.dornochcastlehotel.com

CASTLE IN THE TREES This 450-year old castle situated on 17 acres of woodlands with its own loch and vibrant rooms (some with four-poster beds) is first glimpsed through the wooded drive as you approach. After settling in, enjoy a drink in the stone-vaulted Keep Bar dating from 1530, before savoring dinner in the beautiful Auld Alliance Room, with its massive Georgian chandelier, fresh flowers and candles, all reflected in a huge mirror. Perched in six lofty sycamores nearby is the Fernie Castle Treehouse— which is a perfect hideaway for romantic couples. The balconied bedroom features a huge elm king-sized bed plus a flat-screen TV, coffee maker and a fridge full of champagne, chocolates and other goodies. Fernie Castle, Fife. www.ferniecastle.co.uk Fernie Castle Treehouse.

Photo Credit: Fernie Castle

LITERARY LANDMARK Immortalized in Sir Walter Scott’s The Antiquary, Ethie, dating from the 14th century, is one of Scotland’s oldest inhabited castles. This ancient sandstone keep boasts period drama pluses like an elegant Georgian drawing room and the Cardinal’s secret staircase. Four guest rooms are available, and the castle is wellpositioned for outdoor activities such as golf, fly fishing and a visit to the seaside town of Arbroath, home to the “Arbroath Smokie,” a famous regional delicacy. Ethie Castle.

Mainly, there are two types of castle hotels —those operated as regular hotels with rooms rented individually by the night and castles rented on an exclusive use basis, where your group will have sole occupancy as the only guests.

Ethie Castle, Angus. www.ethiecastle.com

Make one of these fascinating castles your domain and feel what it was like to rule. Otherwise, just pop by for high tea. WOW air offers cheap flights to Edinburgh, Scotland, 3-4 times a week, all year round. Book your flight at wowair.com.

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Northern delights

The inland links of Ledreborg Palace Golf is Sir Nick Faldoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first Scandinavian course.

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Scandinavia to a tee For golfers looking for a golf break away from the usual haunts, the Scandinavian countries of Denmark and Sweden and their beautiful capitals of Copenhagen and Stockholm are well worth considering. by Andrew Marshall Photos: Paul Marshall

oasting a wealth of historical and cultural sites, world-class museums and art galleries, cutting-edge style and design, plus affordable flights from the US, they make excellent destinations for a city sightseeing golf excursion, particularly during the warmer, longer days of May to September. Here’s the pick of the courses and attractions in both cities.

COPENHAGEN Start your trip by driving 20 km north of the city to Royal Copenhagen Golf Club, situated in the middle of Dyrehaven, originally an ancient hunting ground and now a beautiful nature reserve. Founded in 1898, Royal Copenhagen is the oldest golf club not only in Denmark but all of Scandinavia. What makes the place so special is its history, character and the

Copenhagen’s colourful and picturesque Nyhavn district with its showcase canal, dug in the 17th century. Photo: Andrew Marshall

Ledreborg Palace Golf is Sir Nick Faldo’s first Scandinavian design.

The world-famous Carlsberg Brewery founded in 1847.

A golfer tees off at Royal Copenhagen’s 335-metre par-4 15th with Eremitage C astle, a charming hunting seat (built in 1736 for King Christian VI), in the background.

A golfer enjoys a beer in the Albatross Bar at Simon’s Golf.

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For golfers looking for a golf break away from the usual haunts, the Scandinavian countries of Denmark and Sweden and their beautiful capitals of Copenhagen and Stockholm are well worth considering.

Northern delights more than 2,000 deer in the park, which roam freely over the fairways and greens of this parkland course.

The Swedish things to do after the 9th- grab a varm korv (hot dog) with mustard and tomato ketchup at the kiosk.

Heading further north along the coastal road you arrive at Simon’s Golf Club in the town of Humlebæk—a splendid 27-hole golf complex, with three nines, labeled A, B and C, which meander and wrap around a scenic lake. Facilities at Simon’s include cottage-style accommodation, driving range, three putting greens, a parthree course and the Albatross Bar with several house beers on tap. 46 km southwest of Copenhagen, towards Ledreborg Allé, is the only course in Scandinavia designed by Sir Nick Faldo, Ledreborg Palace Golf. Opened in 2007, this inland links-style layout weaves its way through the sumptuous grounds that border 18th-century Ledreborg Palace (a landmark still home to an aristocratic Danish family).

Bro Hof Slott – this state-of-the-art golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr has hosted of the Scandinavian Masters. Photo: Ulf Berglund.

AWAY FROM THE COURSES Don’t miss the perfectly preserved Vasa warship housed in the Vasa Museum (Vasamuséet) (Photo credit: Alexander Dokukin)

Top attractions include the world-famous Carlsberg Brewery founded in 1847 (selfguided tours are available), Tivoli Gardens (the world’s second oldest amusement park), Christiana (an “alternative” village community featuring workshops, live music and organic eateries), and the Danish Design Centre. The picturesque Nyhavn district with its showcase canal, lined with colorful gabled townhouses, is a great place to enjoy a drink at one of the many pavement cafés or bars. STOCKHOLM

Botkyrka Golf Club typifies the good quality/value (approx 350SEK for 18 holes) that’s available a short drive from Stockholm.

A golfer heads to the 10th tee at Haninge Golf Club, with the 15th century castle - Årsta Slott a key feature of the club.

Beautiful Stockholm- also known as the “Venice of the north”, or the “City that floats on water.”

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Using beautiful Stockholm as a base, there are at least 50 courses of a consistently high-standard within an hour’s drive in different directions of the city center. The pick of the bunch is Bro Hof Slott. From the moment you drive through the gates and glimpse the white hilltop castle, manicured fairways and glistening Lake Mälaren, you know you have arrived at a special place. Open for play since 2007 Bro Hof Slott’s Stadium Course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. is now one of the world’s best layouts and the former home to the Nordea Masters European Tour event. Redesigned and renovated by Jack Nicklaus and his team between 20112013, Ullna Golf Club is situated by the side of beautiful Lake Ullnasjon and boasts mint condition bent grass fairways, fast greens and intricate brightwhite marble bunkers. Water comes into play on nearly every hole including the standout par-three 3rd played to an island green. Kungsängen Golf Club offers two 18hole courses—the Queens Course and Kings Course featuring several tight, tree-lined holes that require skillful course management to score well. Another highly-regarded course among Stockholm golfers is Haninge Golf Club. It has a panoramic setting with the 15thcentury castle and clubhouse, Årsta

A golfer walks down the first fairway at Kallfors Golf Club, an excellent 27 holes about an hour’s drive from Stockholm.

Using beautiful Stockholm as a base, there are at least 50 courses of a consistently highstandard within an hour’s drive in different directions of the city center.

Slott, where you can enjoy a beer or meal after playing 27-holes of forest/parkland-style golf. AWAY FROM THE COURSES Medieval Gamla Stan (the Old Town) is the oldest part of the city and a treasure-trove of 17th-century Swedish architecture. Take time to wander the network of picturesque streets and lanes crammed with shops, studios, museums, bars and restaurants. Another Stockholm must-do is the superb Vasa Museum, built around the Royal Warship Vasa, the oldest known and most complete ship in the world. Staying with the nautical theme, the ferry terminal in front of the Grand Hôtel is a launch pad for boat trips to the islands of the archipelago, 24,000 of them scattered across the water for 70km in the direction of Finland.

Don’t be green, this one’s fore you! Stay on course with WOW air and fly to Denmark or Sweden for a Nordic golf vacation. WOW air offers cheap flights to Copenhagen every day of the week and to Stockholm four times a week, all year round. Find your tickets at wowair.com.

eldur Workshop is a family business created and operated by furrier Heiðar Sigurðsson and his wife Kristín Birgisdóttir. They specialize in the design and production of genuine high-quality fur garments and accessories. The main ambition of the business is to produce beautiful designs from prime quality fur that are both classic and modern. Feldur Workshop also provides mending services for fur coats and other fur articles. This service is a part of their desire to make their creations and fur products in general, items that will last a lifetime and even be passed on to the next generation.

The highlight for many visitors is the opportunity to observe the master furrier himself. Feldur Workshop is located at Snorrabraut 56 in downtown Reykjavik. The workshop is both a stylish and cosy, displaying some of the fur products they‘ve designed, while others are handmade on site.

If you are interested in seeing Feldur Workshop’s products, we recommend a visit to the workshop on Snorrabraut 56. Alternatively, there are a number of stores in Iceland that carry a selection of their items which you also can see online at www.feldur.is.

SHOP SNORRABRAUT 56 | T. 588 0488 | FELDUR.IS Issue on 95

Chicago’s speakeasies

It’s the Bees Knees! Relive the bygone days of gangsters and flappers at some of Chicago’s best speakeasy bars. That is, if you can locate the secret entrances. by Krista Connor Photos: Courtesy of respective venues

ew cities can so effortlessly merge history and the present-day into one intoxicating experience like Chicago can, especially when it comes to alcohol. Windy City mixologists certainly embrace the historical romance of the metropolis, and no time period stands out more than the 1920s, which introduced radical cult ural changes and debauchery—think mobsters, Art Deco design, jazz, bobbed hairstyles, first-wave feminism, and, of course, Prohibition. Now, modern-day speakeasies run rampant throughout the city paying homage to those bygone days. And while you won’t run into Al Capone, chances are you’ll feel like you’re stepping back into the riotous blur of the Roaring Twenties—if you know the entrance password. THE OFFICE 955 W. Fulton Market This dimly-lit lounge with just 14 seats is located beneath the exclusive bar The

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Aviary—and admittance into The Office is even more restrictive. Your best bet for getting in is by personal invitation from your server upstairs at The Aviary. You can also book an expensive reservation online. Once the locked door is opened for you, bask in your success in a distinguished room filled with art and antiques, and sip classic drinks made with top-dollar ingredients. All drinks are $20 each and made with a single spirit. exploretock.com/theoffice

ROOM 13 3222 N. Sheffield Ave. Bartenders bring the Prohibition era to life with Jazz Age libations and cultural anecdotes in this speakeasy. The entrance is located in the alley to the left of the Old Chicago Inn on Sheffield and Belmont. Look for the red-lit gate with an “RM-13” logo and knock. A bartender will greet you at the door, but you’re not in yet. You’ll have to know the frequently-changing password. If

Few cities can so effortlessly merge history and the presentday into one intoxicating experience like Chicago can, especially when it comes to alcohol.

Room 13. Photos: Randi Shepard

Relive the bygone days of gangsters and flappers at some of Chicago’s best speakeasy bars.

you stay at the Chicago Inn, you’ll receive an invitation to the bar, or you can apply for a bar membership with a yearly fee. Otherwise, put your detective work to use in tracking down someone who may have the password and be kind enough to share. Formal attire is required, which means jackets for men, and absolutely no denim or athletic wear. oldchicagoinn.com

BORDEL 1721 W. Division St. Inspired by a mashup of time periods—Paris’ Belle Époque and Chicago during the time of the Pro hibition—this hidden craft cocktail bar features a rotating cast of jazz musicians, burlesque performers, magicians and cabaret dancers. Add eclectic interiors and era-appropriate alcohol to the entertainment, and you’re in for quite a show.

Bordel: Inspired by a mashup of time periods— Paris’ Belle Époque and Chicago during the time of the Prohibition— this hidden craft cocktail bar features a rotating cast of jazz musicians, burlesque performers, magicians and cabaret dancers.

bordelchicago.com

THE BASSMENT 353 W. Hubbard St. Lower Level Located in the River North neighborhood below The Hampton Social Restaurant, this live music cocktail lounge is inspired by the 1960s British Invasion. Note: That alleyway entrance you see isn’t actually for a tobacco shop like the sign says, but for this speakeasy. Once you enter through the deceptive door and into a world of Union Jacks, be immersed in the sounds of live music—jazz, R&B, throwback bands—while lounging jauntily on velvet and leather couches. Finally, take in the sights, sounds, and, of course, cocktails, old sport.

Dress up and drink up in Illinois’ lively capital—where the party’s at! WOW air offers cheap flights to Chicago from around Europe several times a week, all year round.

thebassmentchicago.com

@aurorareykjavik

AURORA REYKJAVÍK

@aurorareykjavik @aurorareykjavik

THE NORTHERN LIGHTS CENTER

EXPLORE

LEARN

DISCOVER

Can’t catch the Northern Lights? Don’t worry, we have already done it for you Visit us and enjoy our multimedia exhibition

OPEN EVERY DAY FROM 09:00 - 21:00

Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík. Near the old harbour. Tel: (+354) 780 4500 - www.aurorareykjavik.is

Issue on 97

Dutch delights

Eating Amsterdam Amsterdam is changing rapidly—the landscape, the population, the standards, the tastes. Yet there are places where time stands still, like the artisan food stores in the once squalid ghetto of The Jordaan district. Text and photos: Cindy-Lou Dale

here is a sense of theater to the place, with every street corner showcasing its own production of traditional food. It’s as if food is woven into the fabric of the area. A PIECE OF PIE Inside Papeneiland, a rustic and cozy brown café on Prinsengracht, thick wedges of warm apple pie are con sumed. I watch a fellow patron pour globules of double-thick cream over his 4-inch apple pie structure with its cake-like crust encasing thin, juicy slices of apple coated in cinnamon and lemon juice and a sprinkling of raisins—which is what makes this ultimate Dutch tea-time treat super ior compared to other apple pies.

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The secret to Papeneiland’s apple pie recipe, which they’ve been baking on-site every day for +60 years, is the crust and the use of a few more perfectly browned apples, cooked in a little brown sugar. Bill Clinton visited twice; on one occasion he ordered an entire pizza-sized pie to take back to his hotel. Sitting jewel-like beside a canal, Café Papeneiland, the Dutch equivalent of an Irish pub, has been an Inn for more than 400 years. It proudly displays its floor-to-ceiling windows, a vaulted ceiling, ancient delft-blue tiles on either side of a turn-of-the-century wood-burning stove, antique wood-paneling, and framed newspaper clippings on the walls.

MEAT CUTE Louman on Goudsbloemstraat is an Amsterdam institution that’s been in business since 1895. It’s Holland’s best family-run butcher, renowned across Amsterdam for their Ossenworst—one of the sausages they produce according to traditional methods at their little sausage factory on the North Sea Canal. Ossenworst refers to the oxen from which this sausage was originally made back in the 16th century, according to kosher practice. Nowadays, it’s typically beef and spices—salt, pepper, cloves, nutmeg, and mace inside a beef casing—which is very lightly smoked. Like steak tartare, it’s soft and tender on the tongue and requires just a drop of mustard as a final touch. They also do their own take on the famed Austrian cheese sausage—Kasekrainer, a flavorsome sausage with melting cheese oozing inside with big tastes. You can taste the craftsmanship.

ETHNIC INFLUENCES The spicy sauce-heavy flavors at Swieti Sranang, one of the best Surinamese/Indonesian small eateries in Amsterdam, goes back to the 1600s and the days of Dutch colonization. Despite its humble appearance on the exclusive Brou wersgracht, you’re guaranteed a taste sensation. The owners of this tiny hole-in-the-wall, Henk van de Weerd and his Indonesian wife, Juliet Chang, make everything themselves. One of the best bites of the day is Juliet’s spicy chicken Satay Ayam’s, basted in a rich peanut butter sauce (you’ll be forgiven for licking the plate). A firm favorite of her customers patiently waiting in line is bakabana—slices of plantain (or banana) coated in batter, deep-fried and served with satay sauce. Delicious! GREAT CATCH Herring is Amsterdam’s best-known local delicacy. Preserved in brine, this addictive food is found at herring stands all over the city. Considered to be the very cradle of local and

There is a sense of theater to the place, with every street corner showcasing its own production of traditional food. It’s as if food is woven into the fabric of the area.

seasonal seafood in The Jordaan is local fishmonger Dirk Bos, whose shop, Urker Viswinkel on Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat, is stock ed daily with hyper-fresh produce supplied by his brother, a fisherman from Urk. Dirk serves only the fattest herrings here in either a sandwich or sliced on a paper plate with onions and pickles spiked with a Dutch-flagged toothpick. Another local favorite is his mouth-watering kibbeling—bite-sized, battered cod, straight out of the fryer, served with dipping sauces. Undoubtedly, the best fried fish you’ll taste in Amsterdam. OUR DAILY BREAD Walking into Sprenkels Bread & More, a bakery just a few paces from the fishmonger, you need to ensure that your hand and mouth agree not to involve your brain in decision making. Here your resistance will dissolve as quickly as their handmade choco lates on your tongue. Then there’s their Gevulde Speculaas which is a slightly sweet and creamy marzipanlike filling encased in a soft spicy crust, baked into a tube-shaped almond pastry. There’s a variety of Speculaas available in other bakeries around Holland, but this one is in a league of its own. Its crumbly

casing is much softer than regular Speculaas, perfect for soaking up large quantities of coffee or tea. They also serve another Dutch delicacy— fresh stroopwafels, a waffle made of two thin layers of baked dough with a caramel-like syrup filling in the middle. The trick is to place the stroopwafel on top of your steaming mug, leave it there for a minute or two, and eat it warm. THE TOURIST Tied up to the quay, outside the Pulitzer, a luxury 17th-century hotel is their traditional wooden salon boat, “The Tourist.” The salon cruiser is a time-capsule with original art nouveau details, polished teak and brass, marble, leather and beveled glass. To celebrate the end of WW2, Queen Wilhelmina of Holland invited Winston Churchill to tour Amsterdam in this very same piece of maritime art – all except the engine, which is now electric. While Captain Benno steers the boat, pointing out places of interest, a platter of geitenkaas (goat cheese) appears alongside locally brewed Texel beer. Like most goat cheeses, Dutch goat cheese is bright white in two

LET’S TACO ‘BOUT IT

varieties—the familiar soft version, and the harder type that can be sliced and put on a cracker. Captain Benno pauses alongside a quay long enough to take delivery of a consignment of Bitterballen from Patisserie Holtkamp. Bitterballen are a popular Dutch beer snack that are fried to a golden crispness on the outside with soft, juicy veal ragù (or cheese for veggies) on the inside and served with a drop of wholegrain mustard.

FINISHING OFF Onto Café de Prins on Prinsengracht. Passing the former Gestapo HQ and the sobering Anne Frank House, it’s time to pamper your palette with dessert which comes in the form of poffertjes—small spongy pancakes made with yeast and flour, dressed in butter and powdered sugar, with a shot of coffee on the side. Another venerable institution, Café de Prins serves the best poffertjes and pancakes in Amsterdam.

HY HEALT LOCAL OOD FAST F CHAIN

Mexican food that is a true fiesta for your taste buds! We are at eight locations in the Reykjavik area and one in Akureyri: The N1 service stations at Hringbraut and Bíldshöfði. The shopping malls Kringlan and Smáralind and Akureyri center among other places.

Issue on 99

Dutch delights

LOVE AT FIRST BITE Following a long day of sampling food, I head to my hotel. The street lights had already switched on, so the short walk to the other end of the now gentrified leafy suburb of The Jordaan is quite spectacular. The windows of crooked gabled houses cast warm pools of light which, from the street, give tanta lizing glimpses of walls lined with books and sills of sprawling houseplants and decorative antiques. The district bustles with bijou boutiques, small galleries, independent shopkeepers and purveyors of fine food. Most visitors to Amsterdam are familiar with its notorious tourist attractions but seldom do you hear of them visiting for the food which is what I told the concierge at my hotel who immediately added another culinary must-do to my list—Van Stapele Koekmakerij. I like the concept of a shop gaining international notoriety for producing just one item—in this case a dark chocolate-chip cookie with a gooey white chocolate center. Here we’re talking love at first bite. www.eatingamsterdamtours.com

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Where to stay: The Hoxton, on Herengracht, is dripping with cool. At one time it was the mayor’s house, made up of five canal houses and spread over five floors. I’m tempted to call it a luxury hotel, but this is a much over-used word. With both period and industrial features, describing it as trendy is more to the point. What is truly refreshing is their no-nonsense approach to room rates which are divided into three categories: shoe-box, cozy and roomy (No 516, a cozy room has gorgeous canal views). The mini-bar contains just milk and water; if you seek an alcoholic beverage, you’re encouraged to visit the bar. Alternatively, you can buy a bottle of your choice from reception at supermarket prices. Lotti’s Restaurant has an open kitchen which Sous Chef Benjamin Elzenaar keeps local by sourcing ingredients from Dutch farms. His modern-French-Mediterranean cuisine is inspired by other high-class restaurants and staff input. My dinner of scallops smells of the sea—no doubt sourced from Uker Viswinkel. www.thehoxton.com/holland/amsterdam/hotels

Feast your senses on Amsterdam and munch to your heart’s desire. The Netherlands will not disappoint. WOW air offers cheap flights to Amsterdam every day of the week, all year round. Book flights on wowair.com.

NATURE PARADISE IN BREIDAFJORDUR AND VESTMANNAEYJAR ICELAND'S LARGEST & SMALLEST INHABITED ISLANDS

brjánslækur flatey stykkishólmur

reykjavík

landeyjahöfn vestmannaeyjar

Issue on 101

The pleasures of Paris

Two days in Le Marais WOW magazine correspondent Krista Connor meanders one of the oldest, grandest neighborhoods in Paris’ 3rd and 4th arrondissements to see the contrast between slow living and bustling city boulevards. And to eat as many meals as possible.

Perhaps the fluidity of Paris’ 3rd and 4th arrondis sements—and a modest distance from the biggest tourist traps—is what gives the neighborhood a sense of genuine accessibility.

Text and photos: Krista Connor

rom a network of quiet, narrow lanes to bold avenues, Paris’ Le Marais is one of the most historic neighborhoods in the city matched by modern-day functionality. Perhaps the fluidity of Paris’ 3rd and 4th arrondis sements—and a modest distance from the biggest tourist traps—is what gives the neighborhood a sense of genuine accessibility. Plus, Le Marais is home to a lot of good food. Not unlike every other Paris lane, the tree-lined street is a hazy dream of flungopen cheese shop doors and rambling sidewalk cafes, unspecific as to where one ends and another begins. But here, its charm is in its intimate approachability, if a little smudged by wear and time.

DAY ONE – A QUIET MARAIS On a narrow, unimposing lane in the 3rd arrondissement, I started with a breakfast at Ob-La-Di (54 Rue de Saintonge), just steps from my home base Hotel Saint-Louis Saintonge (16 Rue de Saintonge). The walk is quiet, and the only people you’re likely to pass are young professionals clutching a baguette and coffee on a brisk walk to work. Ob-La-Di is easy to miss with a no-frills glass storefront, and though it probably seats no more than ten people, it’s one of Paris’ most Instagrammed eateries. No surprise there; the stylish (and delicious) food is as vibrant as its industrial décor accented by an iconic blue and white tile floor. Poached eggs tartine is the way to go—with a strong cup of coffee, of course. Next, I continued a calm day far from jostling crowds, wandering the adjacent, tucked-away Rue de Bretagne. Not unlike every other Paris lane, the tree-lined street is a hazy dream of flung-open cheese shop doors and rambling sidewalk cafes, unspecific as to where one ends and anot her begins. But here, its charm is in its intimate approachability, if a little smudged by wear and time.

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When the weather allows, market Le Jard in des Délices Maison Azria (41 Rue de Bretagne) is transformed, unfurling tables heavy with fresh produce onto the sidewalk so that you’d be amiss not to stop. Later, for a casual affair, get lunch at La Paulette. The bistro serves an unshowy lasagne au four and duck confit with mashed potatoes. The fare is light enough, ideal for those who always want to save room for more, having made it their goal to indulge in as many mouthfuls as possible at as many sidewalk cafes imaginable.

After lunch, I stopped at Jouannault (look for the storefront sign “Fromagerie”), a family-run cheese shop no larger than the average size family room. The family has been selecting and refining cheeses for nearly 30 years. At counters set up on the sidewalk and inside, you’ll find a delightful

From a network of quiet, narrow lanes to bold avenues, Paris’ Le Marais is one of the most historic neighborhoods in the city matched by modern-day functionality.

array: Chaource, County, Crottin, Gaperon of Auvergne along with neatly packaged cured meats. The rest of the afternoon I spent getting contentedly lost throughout the nearby narrow streets, bumping into boutiques like Violette et Léonie (27, Rue de Poitou and 1, Rue de Saintonge), Merci (111 Boulevard Beaumarchais) and Huygens (24 Rue du Temple). Get dinner at a sidewalk table at Le Petit Sancerre (87 Rue des Archives), and as you move on to a cheeseboard, wine, cheesecake and chocolate mousse, be enveloped by the soft lull of your Parisian neighbors’ conversations, paired intimately with the endless swirl of their cigarette smoke. DAY TWO – THE CITY LIFE I transitioned from contemplation to cosmopolitan a few blocks over in the 4th arrondissement at Hotel Emile (2 Rue Malher), a contemporary boutique hotel on the cusp of the sprawling Rue de Rivoli which is the embodiment of Haussmann, with its cream-colored Lutetian limestone and wide-open spaces.

gentle competition of soft yellow lighting, outdoor seating, and sloping awnings. Experience the best ravioles de Royans with cream and pesto, and Mi-Cuit Chocolat. Alternatively, you could venture to the southernmost corner of Le Marais where the neighborhood meets the Seine, to Le Café Louis Philippe (66 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville) for an unrepentant taste of romantic Paris views and dining (the most incredible filet de canard and Bordeaux). And winding on foot through narrow lanes back to the hotel, past lashings of

moonlit-drenched cafés and the blur of soft laughter you might just realize: You’ve become part of one of the world’s most iconic scenes, even if you’re still working on that perfectly languid bistro table slouch.

A few steps from the hotel, La Favorite (4 Rue de Rivoli) is where to go to people watch and enjoy a sidewalk-patio brunch of eggs benedict before joining the rush of Paris ians—and handfuls of tourists—by heading out to explore. Nearby is the Place des Vosges, considered by many to be the most beautifully built square in Paris. Made in the early 17th century, Place des Vosges was the first planned square in Paris commissioned by Henri IV. The Maison de Victor Hugo where Hugo lived for 16 years and died in 1885 is here, too. Endless fashion boutiques line Rue de Rivoli. Once I was through them, I headed to dinner at the crowded Bistrot de la Place (2 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine) in the Square of St. Catherine, a picturesque grouping of restaurants in a

There is endless pleasure to be had in Paris. Follow the locals of Le Marais for a vacation in Paris worth remembering. WOW air offers cheap flights to Paris every day of the week, all year round. Find your flight tickets at wowair.com.

All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890 SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL:

• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is

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London tourist traps

Places to avoid —and where to go instead When you’re visiting somewhere so packed full of things to do, it almost seems a shame to get caught up in tourist traps at the expense of some of the much more interesting options. Why overpay for poor quality or be herded like cattle for an underwhelming experience? by Oli Lynch Photos: Oli Lynch, unless otherwise stated

ondon is perhaps one of the most action-packed cities with so much to do, that to spend half a day at a tourist trap seems like a waste, especi ally if ou haven‘t got much time. These are the top tourist traps that Londoner’s pretty much never go to (unless dragged by visiting friends/family) and that you can easily skip without FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out). LEICESTER SQUARE The West End is a cluster of plazas and public spaces: Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square, Covent Garden and… Leicester Square—easily the biggest tourist trap in town that has M&M’s World, chain restaurants like TGI Fridays, extremely expensive cinemas and low-quality street performers. In all honesty, most visitors will pass through Leicester Square, mostly due to its location, but do not— I REPEAT: DO NOT—eat in or around Leicester Square. The quality of the food is low, and for such an exciting city there are much better places to fuel up. As an alternative, wander the streets of Soho; keep an eye out for the celebs and find a cool eatery like Quo Vadis, Yauatcha or Dishoom. And FYI, no Londoner would go to an Angus Steak House. COVENT GARDEN In the same area, Covent Garden has also become a bit of a tourist trap in recent years. The cool street performers have been replaced by living statues (I mean, when you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all). The cutting-edge eating options have been taken over by chains, the market is mostly overpriced trinkets and the shops are the same brands that you can get anywhere.

Why go to Harrods? Liberty at the top of Carnaby Street is an equally cool looking building with a fraction of the crowds. John Lewis or Selfridges on Oxford Street will have all the same products often a lot cheaper.

The market at Spitalfields is still a much better option for independents or Portobello Road which is also overpriced but a bit more authentic. Near Soho, Covent Garden has also become a bit of a tourist trap in recent years. The cool street performers have been replaced by living statues (I mean, when you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all).

HARRODS There is definitely prestige associated with Harrods; the exterior of the building is undoubtedly most impressive. But as a shopping experience? Honestly, you can skip this one. Massive and slow moving crowds, expensive products and bored looking salespeople. Around holiday seasons and during the semi-frequent sales, you will find yourself wondering what drove you to spend hours stuck in the perfume department when there are much better department stores. Liberty at the top of Carnaby Street is an equally cool looking building with a fraction of the crowds. John Lewis or Selfridges on Oxford Street will have all the same products often a lot cheaper. NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM With so many museums, visitors can be vexed about the best place to get their culture fix. It’s probably not the Natural History Museum. OK, yes there are lots of exhibits about dinosaurs which are very impressive and the whale skeleton is genuinely awe-inspiring. BUT, unless you’ve got young children in

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tow most will find it a bit kiddy focused. The same applies to the neighboring Science Museum. The best adult options are the British Museum which is home to lots of ancient artifacts (although it too is very popular) and places like Tate (Britain and Modern), the National Portrait Gallery and the Victoria and Albert Museum.

CAMDEN Maybe it’s the reputation as the home of punk or the massive market which makes it popular, but Camden is somewhere that Londoners do their best to avoid. The whole area has been revamped and is now more a Disneyland version of what it used to be, cashing in on the “alternative” scene which made it so famous. Yes, you will find some cool music venues and pubs in the area mostly away from the thronging masses. But for nightlife, Londoners

“The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll is as eccentric in its telling as the tale it celebrates.” David Fricke, Rolling Stone.

THE ICELANDIC MUSEUM OF ROCK 'N' ROLL

Visit Iceland's largest music museum and enjoy our history of Icelandic rock and pop music. Browse through the timeline of Icelandic pop and rock music with the Rock 'n' Roll app on Ipads, spend time in our soundlab, cinema, karaoke booth, gift store, exhibitions or simply grab a cup of coffee at our café (free wifi!).

The museum is located in Keflavík only 5 minutes away from Keflavík International Airport. Open daily from 11am - 6pm For more go to rokksafn.is

The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll

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London tourist traps

Hampton court palace.

tend to head to places like Shoreditch, Dalston and Brixton for their night out. For markets try the ever popular Borough, Spitalfields or Brixton Village which are all excellent places for foodies. THE SHERLOCK HOLMES MUSEUM Looking at the queues snaking down the road from 221b Baker Street, you’d think this was a world-class tourist attraction. What you’ll find inside is a fairly disappointing collection of Victorian-era trinkets and an admittedly, not absolutely terrible collection of Sherlock Holmes memorabilia. Some facts to remember. This isn’t really 221b; it’s at 239. Sherlock Holmes is ficti tious so he never lived here and when Arthur Conan Doyle wrote the books, Baker Street didn’t even go up to 221. Save your money and go instead to The Museum of Childhood, the Museum of London or V&A; all excellent, free and with much more interesting retro-themed exhibitions.

Primrose Hill.

BUCKINGHAM PALACE Skip Buck Pal? Controversial! Absolutely. But actually, Buckingham Palace isn’t a particularly interesting building and, sorry but you won’t see the Queen. That won’t stop the millions of people flocking to marvel at it, but if you’re not that interested, then I can safely say you won’t be missing out if you skip it. If you visit, try to go for the Changing of the Guard (11am-11:45 on Mondays, Wednesday, Friday and Sundays—subject to change, so check online).

Looking at the queues snaking down the road from 221b Baker Street, you’d think this was a world-class tourist attraction. What you’ll find inside is a fairly disappointing collection of Victorian-era trinkets and an admittedly, not absolutely terrible collection of Sherlock Holmes memorabilia.

be bigger crowds, diversions and noise pollution. Regents Park is a fantastic spot with some beautiful rose gardens and an outdoor theater. Just up from there is Primrose Hill which offers fantastic views of the city and is worth the wander up from Camden. Further out of town, Richmond Park is a tranquil idyll where you can spot deer, Hampstead Heath offers even better views. Wherever you end up in London you’re sure to have an amazing time. Remember to check the weather forecast as it can change a lot and make sure you’ve got your comfy walking shoes!

As an alternative, the Tower of London, Hampton Court Palace and Windsor Castle are all totally worth the visit. HYDE PARK

Hampton Court Palace.

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Actually, there is nothing wrong with Hyde Park; it’s a great piece of green space right in the busy heart of the city and a perfect stop for a breather, especially in the summer. But… it can be very busy, and if there is an event on (which there often is), there can

Hampstead Heath.

Don’t get trapped in London! Book cheap flights to the British capital with WOW air and follow our lead. WOW air offers cheap flights to London Gatwick and London Stansted, every day of the week all year round.

Completing The Golden Circle

Geothermal baths - Natural steam baths Local kitchen - Geothermal bakery Open daily

10:00 - 23:00 (Summer 09/06 - 20/08) 11:00 - 22:00 (Winter 21/08 - 08/06)

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Green spaces

Photo: Tourism Toronto / Daniel Tran

Toronto’s Top 7 Must-See Parks As more skyscrapers are built across Toronto, green space is needed now more than ever. But there is more to the city than its well-known High Park. by Nadja Sayej Photos: © Tourism Toronto

ith the new Rail Deck Park currently being designed to launch in the coming years, there are different parks in the city which are perfect for adventure-lovers, botanical nerds, artsy types and sports fanatics. Here are Toronto’s top seven must-see parks.

HIGH PARK

High Park is high up on a small mountain in Toronto spanning over 160 hectares and mixes bike paths with playgrounds, sporting facilities, several gardens and even a zoo. About a 15-minute ride north of the city center, the park features rare oak savannah trees. High Park is the best place to rent a bicycle and ride through on a sunny day.

Photo: Tourism Toronto

TORONTO ISLAND While not just a park, this no-motor-vehicle green island is just a 15-minute ferry ride from downtown. As a group of 15 inter connected islands by bridge and path, the island has beaches, parks, paths, kayak rentals, as well as a theater and an amuse ment park. There are also 600 residents who live in the island’s cottage-like homes. Don’t miss the 200-year-old lighthouse, it’s a great spot for selfies.

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Photo: Tourism Toronto / Danielle Petti

As more skyscrapers are built across Toronto, green space is needed now more than ever. But there is more to the city than its well-known High Park.

TRINITY BELLWOODS PARK For those who want to visit the city’s cool district of Queen West, this park is a must-visit. Pegged between Queen Street West and Dundas Street, you can’t miss the park’s iconic black iron gates. For sports fans, there are three baseball diamonds, eight tennis courts, two volleyball courts, an ice rink, a no-leash zone for dogs, a picnic area and a wading pool in the summer. ALLEN GARDENS As one of the city’s oldest parks, you can’t miss the 100-year-old glass, greenhouse conservatory, which is filled with exotic flowers, cacti and palm trees; they also have bamboo, a small pond and citrus trees. The park is open year-round and is a short walk from Maple Leaf Gardens. TORONTO MUSIC GARDEN Set on the shore of Lake Ontario, just steps away from the Harbourfront Centre, this lakeside garden is inspired by classical composer Johannes Bach. The park, which has a large spiral path, is more than just a chill area; it has a concert series every summer. It was first designed by musician Yo-Yo Ma.

The city’s ulti mate urban art park is tucked away behind the Art Gallery of Ontario, offering a stunning view of the Frank Gehry Building, and OCAD University, which is an art school on colored stilts.

Photo: Tourism Toronto / Danielle Petti

MOUTH OF THE CREEK PARK

For those who want to visit the city’s cool district of Queen West, Trinity Bellwoods Park is a mustvisit.

Running through the city’s river, Garrison Creek, this new park is a com munity hub with a new library, a public park and a 100-year-old bridge on the grounds of a historical site. The park’s trail connects the SkyDome and nearby neighborhoods Liberty Village and King West. CHELSEA HOTEL For a comfortable stay, book a room at the Chelsea Hotel on Gerrard Street West. It has a sleek, modern design with classic Toronto architecture and boasts being Canada’s largest hotel with over 1,500 guest rooms. On the rooftop, find a pool overlooking the city skyline, a health club with a sauna and the Family Fun Zone with a circular waterslide called the ‘Corkscrew.’ The morning brunch offers endless variety, from pancakes with maple syrup to traditional Canadian hash browns and seven different kinds of coffee.

GRANGE PARK The city’s ultimate urban art park is tucked away behind the Art Gallery of Ontario, offering a stunning view of the Frank Gehry Building, and OCAD University, which is an art school on colored stilts. The park has recently been revitalized with 80 new trees planted alongside a public art piece by British sculptor Henry Moore. Down on the ground there are quotes inscribed on the granite stone path that leads visitors throughout the park with phrases by Toronto’s artistic talents Vincent Lam, Jane Jacobs and Roberta Bondar.

Go green and experience the great outdoors in Toronto; there’s plenty to choose from. WOW air offers cheap flights to Toronto, Canada, every day of the week, all year round. Book your flight at wowair.com.

THE ICELANDIC

PENIS MUSEUM We

Dicks!

The Icelandic Phallological Museum is one of the most informative, humorous, and unusual museums in the world. The world famous “Penis museum” in Reykjavik is the only museum in the world to contain a collection of phallic specimens belonging to all the various types of mammal found in a single country. The founder, Sigurður Hjartarson started the collection 40 years ago and made it first accessible to the public in 1997 with the opening of the museum. The Icelandic Phallological Museum contains a collection of more than 220 penises and penile parts belonging to all the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland. There is also a foreign section that holds more than forty examples and a folklore section that has some twenty pieces on display. All in all, more than 380 biological examples. In addition to the biological section of the museum, visitors can view a collection of about 350 artistic oddments and practical utensils related to the museum’s chosen theme. The museum is in a 250 square meter location on the upper part of Reykjavik’s main shopping street, Laugavegur, only a 10 minutes walk from the city’s centre. There is a souvenir corner with a small exclusive selection of things related to the museum’s theme.

Seeing is believing! No pornography or offensive material in the museum.

Laugavegur 116 • 105 Reykjavík • Tel.: (+354) 561-6663 (+354) 690 3774• phallus@phallus.is • www.phallus.is Opening hours: Summer: Daily from10 am - 6 pm • Winter: Daily from 11 am -6 pm • Next to Hlemmur bus station Issue on 109

Out on the town

House of Yes. Photo: Kenny Rodriguez

Top New York City bars and nightclubs One of the best things about New York City is its exciting variety of nightclubs and bars that cater to every mood and interest. By Eva Leonard Photos: Courtesy of respective venues

hether you want to hit the dance floor while worldfamous DJs spin, watch wildly creative entertain ers perform everything from cabaret and jazz to acrobatics, magic and poetry, or enjoy beer freshly made in a brewery, New York City’s bars and nightclubs have it all. Here are some of the best. LE BAIN, STANDARD HIGH LINE HOTEL For serious nightclubbing with worldfamous DJs, stunning views from the top floor of the Meatpacking District’s Stand ard High Line Hotel, Le Bain discotheque

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For serious nightclubbing with world-famous DJs, stunning views from the top floor of the Meatpacking District’s Standard High Line Hotel, Le Bain discotheque and bar is the place to be.

and bar is the place to be. Wednesday nights at Le Bain, the Dance Dance Dance party takes place with guest DJs. Long time New York nightlife impresario Erich Conrad brings his party, Zig Zag, to Le Bain on Thursday nights. Of course, Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights at Le Bain are also ultra-hot. The dance floor has a plunge pool, and there’s a crêperie on the rooftop should all that dancing make you hungry. CLUB CUMMING Award-winning stage, television, and film actor and singer Alan Cumming has deliv ered impressive performances in plays like

New York City’s bars and nightclubs have it all. Here are some of the best.

Hamlet, Bent, and Cabaret. Cumming’s East Village nightclub, Club Cumming, is full of delightful, equally impressive and some times offbeat surprises. Featuring everything from cabaret and DJs to special nights with names like Scream Along with Billy and Knit at Night. (Yes, you can knit at night in this nightclub.) Patrons can also sometimes catch impromptu performances by celebrity entertainers who might decide to sing a song or two at this friendly, lively neighborhood club and bar. MARQUEE NYC If you’re a fan of house music, Marquee NYC is the nightclub for you. With sister clubs in Sydney and Las Vegas, this highenergy nightspot features musicians and DJs like Steve Aoki, Andrew Rayel and Sunnery James and Ryan Marciano playing underground and commercial house music on weekends. THE BLUE NOTE

House of Yes is known for its creative dance party events and variety shows featuring performers such as acrobats, poets and magicians. Top DJs play music including funk, disco and house, and there are also roller disco nights for those who like to strap on skates and dance.

CIRCA BREWING COMPANY If you want to keep things simple and are in the mood for beer, pizza, and a cool, industrial atmosphere, head to Brooklyn’s Circa Brewing Company. You can enjoy fresh brews made on site in this 6,000-square-foot fully functioning brewery, as well as beer-infused cocktails, wood-burning pizzas, grilled meat, and vegetable plates, surrounded by the tanks and machinery of the brewery. BAR AT BACCARAT HOTEL For an extra-special evening with a splash of elegance, luxury and drama, check out the seductive setting at the Bar at Baccarat Hotel. The 60-foot-long bar, inspired by the royal stables at Chateau de Versailles, features daring artwork, vaulted ceilings, and shimmering chandeliers. Specialty cocktails are served in Baccarat crystal glasses, and the bar menu offers small plates like truffle pommes frites, lobster beignets, and spicy tuna tartare.

If you like jazz, a trip to New York City isn’t complete without a night at the iconic Greenwich Village jazz club, the Blue Note. Performers at the Blue Note, which opened in 1981, have included jazz greats such as Sarah Vaughan, Dizzy Gillespie, Tito Puente, and more recently, the Joshua Redman Quartet, Jools Holland, Chick Corea, Rachell Ferrell, and the Hypnotic Brass Ensemble. HOUSE OF YES This upbeat Brooklyn club is known for its creative dance party events and variety shows featuring performers such as acrobats, poets and magicians. Top DJs play music including funk, disco and house, and there are also roller disco nights for those who like to strap on skates and dance. When you get hungry, you can grab a bite at House of Yes’s Queen of Falafel shop.

There are some high times to be had in the Big Apple. Drink up and dance your trouble away. The city never sleeps and neither should you. WOW air offers cheap flights to New York, both Newark (EWR) and JFK*, every day of the week, all year round. Find your flight at wowair.com. *WOW air’s service to JFK airport starts in May 2018.

A LOCAL FAVOURITE FOR 17 YEARS

Experience tapas the Icelandic way, made with the freshest local ingredients in an energetic and vibrant atmosphere. TAPASBARINN – A MUST TRY IN ICELAND

late night dining Our kitchen is open until 23:30 on weekdays and 01:00 on weekends

Tapasbarinn | Vesturgata 3B | 101 Reykjavík | Tel: 551 2344 | tapas.is

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WOW destinations

You want more? WOW! We’ve got so many destinations we don’t have room for articles about all of them. WOW air now has over 35 destinations and will continue to add more as well as increase flight frequency to top destinations such as London, Paris and California. You can check out all our flight destinations and low fares at wowair.com.

ALICANTE Warm up by the Mediterranean Sea and taste the best of Spain. WOW air now offers cheap flights* to Alicante from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, up to four times a week until the end of October 2017.

BARCELONA Barcelona truly is the perfect destination; tasty tapas, seaside promenades and mind-blowing architecture. Getting there is the easy part. WOW air offers 2-4 flights a week to Barcelona from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, all year round, except in January and April.

CINCINNATI Also known as the Queen of the West, Cincinnati offers historic architecture, innovative food and festivals fit for royalty. WOW air offers cheap flights to Cincinnati, Ohio, four times a week from May 9. BRUSSELS

The capital of cool and quirky is one of our most popular destinations. With history on every corner, a nightlife scene that truly lives up to its name and great shopping for everyone, Berlin won’t let you down.

A trendy hot-spot with a wide range of tourist attractions, Brussels, Belgium is a perfect destination for a fun family vacation or a short city break. Known for fine chocolate, tasty waffles, premium beer and mussels this cool destination will surprise you.

Hop onboard. WOW air offers cheap flights* to Berlin, Germany from USA, Canada and Iceland, every day of the week, all year round.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Brussels every day of the week this summer and four to five times a week come winter.

BERLIN

BOSTON The city that’s famous for Cheers and good shopping. WOW air offers cheap flights to Boston from Iceland all days of the week all year round. Connecting flights* to Boston are available from most WOW destinations in Europe.

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CLEVELAND The city who coined the phrase “Rock n’Roll” will welcome you with its friendly people, cultural diversity, great food scene, live music, amazing nature and of course a healthy passion for American sports. Do you love shopping? You’ll fit right in as this is the city that invented the mall. WOW air will fly to Cleveland, Ohio, four times a week, all year round from May 3.

DALLAS The dream turned out to be real after all and WOW air is going to Dallas. Big houses, big hats, big cars, big portions and big ideas … Welcome to Dallas, Texas! WOW air offers cheap flight to Dallas, Texas, three times a week, all year round, from May 23.

day of the week, all year round. From June 1st to middle of October, WOW air will offer two flights to Dublin on Sundays and Wednesdays. DÜSSELDORF This great city on the Rhine is famous for its art and culture, luxury fashion and lifestyle.

DETROIT The energy that surges through “Motor City” is worth checking out. This former hub of the American car industry is going through a revival and has become one of the most exciting desti nation in USA. WOW air flies to Detroit, Michigan, four times a week, all year round, from April 25. DUBLIN Dublin has become a modern European city without losing the grip on its Irish roots and just a stone’s throw away is the spectacular Irish nature. WOW air flies to Dublin, Ireland from USA, Canada and Iceland every

WOW air flies to Düsseldorf, Germany from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, three times a week until the end of September.

WOW air offers weekly flights to Gran Canaria from Iceland until late March. LYON Experience the gastronomic capital of France with all its history and vibrant cultural scene. WOW air flies to Lyon four times a week* during the summer, with available connections from USA and Canada.

This vibrant city is famous for its beaches and nightlife and this truly is the city where the heat is on. Miami’s laid back culture and great food blends beautifully with the city’s art and design. Enjoy!

FRANKFURT Frankfurt am Main, aka “Mainhattan” is Germany’s most cosmopolitan city but that doesn’t mean history isn’t appreciated there. When you visit Frankfurt don’t miss out on the Mosel Valley for a taste of Germany’s best wines. Prost! WOW air offers cheap flights* to Frankfurt am Main from USA, Canada and Iceland, every day of the week, all year round. GRAN CANARIA The city of Las Palmas in Gran Canaria is warm all year round so it’s a perfect destination for both the chilly and the chill.

MIAMI

LOS ANGELES The City of Angels, also known as L.A. is eclectic, progressive, trendy, laid-back and retro all at once. Great beaches, Rodeo Drive and famous people, need we say more? WOW air offers cheap flights to Los Angeles, California every day of the week all year round.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Miami, Florida from most WOW destinations in Europe, up to three times a week all year round. MILAN Get ready for high fashion and high culture and don’t forget to feast your eyes on da Vinci’s Last Supper. WOW air flies to Milan, Italy from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, 2-3 times a week from June to September.

Snæfellsjökull Art, science and history of an Icelandic volcano A unique book by Iceland’s most noted volcanologist.

Haraldur Sigurdsson vulkan@simnet.is Issue on 113

WOW destinations

MONTRÉAL This cultural gem has been nick named La Belle Ville or the Beautiful City and it’s more European than American at its core. Here you’ll find design, art, culture, nightlife and culinary scenes that rival the best in the world. And don’t forget about the hockey. WOW air flies to Montréal, Canada four to seven times a week, all year round. PITTSBURGH Pittsburgh is fast becoming the city everyone is talking about. With a charming small town feel and friendly atmosphere this big city is a travel destination on the rise. WOW air offers up to 5 flights* a week until the end of October. SALZBURG Looking for that perfect winter destination? European ski resorts are known for being budget friendly and the Austrian Alps’ best ski resorts are just a short drive from Salzburg Airport. Pack your skis; WOW air flies to Salzburg from Iceland once a week from the end of December to the end of February 2018.

ST. LOUIS From the world renowned symphony orchestra and the magnificent Gateway Arch monument to the home of the Budweiser and the Cardinals, St. Louis might surprise you. Meet your there? WOW air offers cheap flights to St. Lois, Missouri, up to five times a week.

TENERIFE

WARSAW

WASHINGTON, D.C.

Relaxing on a tropical island sounds like a dream and Tenerife is a dream come true.

The capital of Poland has some historic charisma and is a great destination if you’re on a budget.

Are you ready for a monumental trip? Get acquainted with the history of the United States of America and enjoy this great capital.

WOW air offers 2-3 flights a week to Tenerife Sur from Iceland all year round.

WOW air offers flights to Warsaw from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, two times a week from June 2017.

WOW air offers cheap flights* to Washington, D.C. from Europe, every day of the week, all year round

The WOW Stopover When flying between North America and Europe take advantage of our WOW Stopover option.

SAN FRANCISCO San Francisco is the cultural, commercial and financial center of Northern California. Well known for its liberal attitude and as the birthplace of the “hippie” counterculture, the Sexual Revolution and the Peace Movement, San Francisco is also home to one of the largest and oldest pride parades and the festivities are truly something to witness and be a part of. Free your spirit! WOW air offers cheap flights to San Francisco every day of the week from April to the end of October and five times a week during the winter months.

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The WOW Stopover allows you to visit Iceland at no additional airfare. It’s kind of like getting two vacations for the price of one. Find out more at wowair.com

Go further with Kiwi.com

WOW air’s now offers additional travel options in collaboration with Kiwi.com. You can book connecting flights outside our network at the best possible price. Would you like to fly to South America, Asia or Africa? Our booking engine in collaboration with Kiwi.com will find you the easiest connection. * Note that the availability of connecting flights between USA and Europe/Asia may vary depending on the flight frequency to each city. WOW air connects London, Bristol, Edinburgh, Dublin, Cork, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris, Lyon, Stockholm, Alicante, Barcelona, Milan, Warsaw and Tel Aviv to New York, Boston, Chicago, Washington, D.C., Pittsburgh, Miami, Los Angeles and San Francisco in the US and Toronto and Montréal in Canada.

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This and that …

mostly this

Photos: Various outlets

Photo: Thordis Thordis Claessen, courtesy of Sundance Institute.

A name to remember Reykjavik’s Mt. Esja is beautiful but dangerous, especially during the winter. Photo: iStockphoto / KeongDaGreat

Most dangerous mountain in Iceland Reykjavik’s favorite mountain and the topic of many a discussion and humble-brag statuses on social media is the beautiful Mt. Esja. This excep tional hiking spot and popular outdoor recreational area, despite its seemingly innocent appearance, also turns out to be the deadliest mountain in Ice land, according to Landsbjörg, Iceland’s Search and Rescue Team. Many people seem to be lulled into

Iceland’s second female PM In our last issue, we told you about the sudden shifts in Icelandic politics when for the second year in a row Icelanders had to vote in a new government, the last one having collapsed Photo by Arild Vågen yet again. These elections, although anti-climactic in nature, divided Althingi even further among the numerous political parties, and forming a new government was going to be a tough task. After a little dilly-dallying on all parts, Left Green Movement leader Katrín Jakobsdóttir managed to form a working coalition of three parties making her the second female prime minister in the history of Iceland. Icelandic women, in general, have had the right to vote and run for office since 1920, almost 100 years. “It’s weird that I’m only the second woman; I should be number fifteen or so. So, in fact, to rectify this injustice there should be fifteen women prime ministers in a row after me,” Katrín Jakobsdottir said. Katrín is well-liked by Icelandic voters, support that goes far beyond her party’s voters. For the past couple of years, she has been the most trusted political party leader in Iceland according to opinion polls.

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false safety by their familiarity with the mountain and therefore underestimate its dangers in winter. Festooned in its winter coat, Mt. Esja turns into a dang erous mountain where you need avalanche equipment, ice picks and spiked mountaineering boots if you are going further up than just the lowest part. Recently three new warning signs were placed on the mountain’s popular hiking route, giving active Icelanders and visitors alike some good advice on safe climbing and what to consider depending on the season. Be careful out there!

The Bieber-effect Visitor numbers to the gorgeous Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon in South Iceland increased by 82% between the years 2016 and 2017 and the reason why is very simple: Justin Bieber. The Canadian heartthrob’s music video to “I’ll Show You,” released in November 2015, now has over 400 million views. It shows him running around in various locations in South Iceland such as Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss Waterfalls, Sólheimasandur Beach, the Ring Road beneath Eyjafjöll Mountain Range and the Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon. The area has always been popular but has now become known to millions of Beliebers all over the world resulting in a great spike in visitor numbers. Fjaðrárgljúfur is a natural heritage site but not protected or restricted, therefore every visitor should tread carefully and leave no trace of their visit.

Magical socks Established little over a year ago, Reykjavik Heritage focuses on designing and creating fun and colorful socks that are sold at select boutiques in Iceland. The company is family owned and was founded by two couples: Kristín Edda Sigurð ardóttir and Oddur Helgi Guðmundsson, and Sigþór Hilmar Guðmundsson (Oddur’s brother) and Linda Sverrisdóttir who all share a great interest in socks. The idea behind the socks was sparked three years ago during a family party. The magical staves of Iceland and their meaning came up and Sigþór pointed out that the magical stave “Vegvísir” would be a great design to put on

a sock as its power is said to guard you against getting lost in bad weather. The socks are designed in Iceland but made in Sweden according to the highest standards. In addition to puffin socks and Iceland socks, Reykjavik Heritage offers eight different magical staves, from love charms and dream symbols to the aforementioned Vegvísir, perfect for those about to set off on hikes in Iceland. Read more about Iceland’s magical staves on pages 46-48.

Ísold Uggadóttir won the Best Director Award in the World Cinema Dramatic Com petition at the Sundance Film Festival in Utah in January. Her Icelandic feature, And Breathe Normally (Andið eðlilega), is the first Icelandic feature to ever win an award at Sundance and only the second to be selected for one of Sundance’s main competitive sections. And Breathe Normally was one of twelve movies competing in the World Cinema Dramatic Competition at the festival, selected out of thousands of movies sent into the competition. Since its premier at the festival, And Breathe Normally has been warmly received by critics. The film tells the story of an intimate bond forming between two women; an Icelandic mother and a refugee from Guinea-Bissau, whose lives briefly intersect in Iceland. The mother and refugee are played by Kristín Thóra Haraldsdóttir and Bebetida Sadjo. Ísold Uggadóttir wrote the script and directed the movie, which is her first feature film. She has previously written and directed awardwinning short films such as Family Reunion, Committed, Clean and Revolution Reykjavik. And Breathe Normally was premiering in Europe at the Göteborg Film Festival at the time this issue went to print, where it competed for the Dragon Award for Best Nordic Film.

Ed Sheeran is still alive A peculiar mistake that escaped the proofreaders of Iceland’s oldest newspaper Morgunblaðið (The Morning Paper) had Ed Sheeran’s photo placed beside an Photo / Shutterstock obituary for an elderly gentleman born in 1935. It is still unknown how a photo of the very-much-alive Sheeran got there in the first place but to clarify, Ed was not reported dead by the newspaper like many foreign media will have you believe, it was just a simple photo mix up. Coincidentally, this isn’t the first Iceland-related mishap involving Ed Sheeran. Last year he visited our volatile island for his 25th birthday and accidentally stepped into a boiling geyser. Sheeran was burnt badly and told the Big Top 40 radio show that he’d had to have skin grafts on his foot after the accident. The ginger singer is seemingly mending well and thriving—despite Iceland’s hot water and obituaries— having gotten engaged in December.

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This and that …

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Celebrations at the grand opening of Fischer in December.

Sub of the day

Spicy Italian

BLT bacon

Subway Melt

The dark and dreamy Fischer The family-owned boutique Fischer was opened shortly before Christmas by siblings Jónsi (of Sigur Rós), Lilja, Ingibjörg and Sigurrós, their life partners and parents. “We’d talked about doing a project like this for years. When Jónsi moved part-time to Los Angeles his studio in Fischersund became available, so we decided to just go for it,” says artist and co-owner Lilja Birgisdottir. The boutique is located in one of the oldest houses in Reykjavik’s center, aka Grjóta þorp Village.

Monday

Tuesday

Ham

Tuna

A lot of work has gone into opening the boutique, best described as a mash-up of a gift shop and an art space. Every item sold at Fischer is designed and handmade by one or more of the siblings. Also, the shop’s interior from the overall design to the smallest detail and carpentry has been done by a family member. There’s a very strong concept behind the Fischer boutique which is meant to be different from the more conventional stores. “We focus on the whole experience of our guests and try to appeal to their every sense. For instance, we’ve designed a special perfume that’s in the air, and have music playing composed by Jónsi, Sindri from Sin Fang, Alex Sommers and Kjartan Holm. You can enjoy coming here even if it’s not to buy anything,” Lilja adds. The siblings at Fischer have a wide product range, from scented candl es and jewelry to wallpaper, pillows, sweaters and blankets. They also offer perfumes, unique artwork and photographs by themselves.

Wednesday

Thursday

Friday

Buffalo chicken

Turkey and ham

649 kr. 1089 kr. 6 inch

12 inch

24 locations in Iceland

Saturday

Sunday

Sub of the day Perfumes in the stone cellar at Fischer.

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HVÍ TA H ÚSIÐ / SÍA / 16- 1625

Vintage shop L a u g a v e g u r 1 1 6 ° S k ó l a v ö r Ðu s t í g u r 1 2

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What’s going on over here?

Hey

look!

Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on. Photos: From respective events or venues

WHAT: Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits WHEN: Various dates in February and March WHERE: Harpa, Reykjavik Concert Hall Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits is a fast-paced and hilarious 75-minute theatrical comedy in English that takes you on a journey through Iceland’s literary heritage. The Icelandic Sagas are narratives, mostly based on historical events that took place in Iceland in the 9th-11th century. They tell of heroes and anti-heroes, villains, feisty females, betrayal, dispute, love, hate and last but not least, pillaging, plundering and murder. The Sagas are often hilariously grotesque, they hint at homosexuality, make light of gory murders and happen in a world where innocent things, like where to sit at a party, can turn into bloody family feuds and good poems can get you out of trouble with angry kings. This, of course, makes for great theater. Get your ticket to Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits at www.icelandicsagas.com and www.harpa.is.

A movie lover’s paradise Located in the heart of downtown Reykjavík, Bíó Paradís is a nonprofit organization run by Iceland’s professional filmmaking guilds. Screening the latest art house releases from all around the world as well as cult films and Icelandic film, it is Iceland’s first and only art house cinema. The theater provides a warm, cozy environment for film lovers of all kinds—both in its three-screen theater and its well-stocked bar.

Events in February and March WHAT: Happy Hour WHEN: Every day from 17-19 No need to explain, happy hour means the same in Iceland as everywhere else.

They tell of heroes and anti-heroes, villains, feisty females, betrayal, dispute, love, hate and last but not least, pillaging, plundering and murder.

WHAT: Friday night party screenings WHEN: Every Friday night at 8 pm Friday means nostalgia at Bíó Paradís. The Sound of Music? Sure. Moulin Rouge and Mamma Mia! too. Singalong? Of course!

German Film Days are organized by Bíó Paradís in cooperation with the Goethe-Institut Denmark and the German Embassy in Iceland. For this edition, Bíó Paradís will present six films, all of which represent the best that current German cinema has to offer.

JUMP ON BOARD OUR

NORTHERN LIGHTS SUPER JEEP TOURS

WHAT: Stockfish Film Festival WHEN: 1-11 March A filmmakers film festival, Stockfish will showcase some of the best recent arthouse films international filmmaking has to offer. It is also a platform for the local scene to come together for screenings, lectures and workshops. There will be an ambitious film program open to the public at Bíó Paradís.

graveltravel.is/tours/northernlights

GRAVEL TRAVEL

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WHAT: Black Sundays WHEN: Every Sunday night at 8 pm Each Sunday evening Bíó Paradís’ special team of experts (cartoonist/ comedian Hugleikur Dagsson, the renowned author Sjón and the screenwriter/comedian/musician Sigurjón Kjartansson) throw on one or more cult classics. Check out their Facebook page to see what’s showing this Sunday! WHAT: German Film Days WHEN: 1-10 February The eighth edition of German Film Days takes place at Bíó Paradís from 1 February to 10 February. The

Check out stockfishfestival.is for programming and latest updates.

WHAT: Farts in Paradís: Best of the worst films ever WHEN: 15 March Cartoonist/writer/artist Hugleikur Dagsson curates a monthly event in Bíó Paradís where he chooses the best of the worst films ever made. Howard the Duck is the March fart. A sarcastic humanoid duck is pulled from his home world to Earth where he must stop a hellish alien invasion.

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Hey

look!

What’s going on over here? Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on.

Photos: Hjalti Árnason

WHAT: Eistnaflug (The Flying Testicles Music Festival) WHEN: 11-14 July 2018 WHERE: Neskaupstaður, East Iceland

Artist Leave Ya at Harpa Concert Hall. Photo: Anita Bjork, courtesy of Sónar Reykjavik

WHAT: Sónar Reykjavik 2018 WHEN: March 16-17 WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall, Reykjavik Tickets are now available for this intimate music festival where the prestigious brand of Sónar redefines itself in a smaller location and at smaller venues. Sónar Reykjavik strives to deliver the experience and artists lineup Sónar Barcelona would be proud of. It takes place on five stages with a total capacity of 3500 guests. Besides the two main stages, a part of

the concert hall’s underground parking will be changed into a nightclub where local and international DJ’s will perform during the festival. Also, a scenic part of Harpa, an architectural wonder, will be changed into a stage along with a seated hall having a capacity of 199 guests. The lineup will include a balanced mix of both international artists and the most current ones from Iceland’s thriving music scene. sonarreykjavik.com

MANY AWARDS

all our menus, we make our own way

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Always been the best from the reviews in our local people and local newspaper. There's a reason why we get an award every once a year

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Laugavegur 130 við Hlemm banthai@banthai.is TEL : 5522444, 692- 0564 122

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“

RESTAURANT

www.banthai.is

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BanThai

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Do not get stuck with other Thai foods you have eaten

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The 2018 edition promises to be yet another banger, with acts such as black metal giants Watain and the spellbinding Poles in Batushka already confirmed. So let your hair down and buy those early bird tickets already, ‘cuz next July will be a month to remember! eistnaflug.is – Tickets available through tix.is

The festival is Eistnaflug, and since its heyday in 2005, this friendly gathering has hosted international acts from Sweden’s Meshuggah to Poland’s Behemoth performing alongside the

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Metalheads and music fans alike all yearn for that ultimate experience of discovering something that is truly their own—seeking it in the hipsterinfested dust of Coachella to the power metal soaked bogs of Wacken Open Air. But deep in the fjords of eastern Iceland, under the neversetting midnight sun, a select few have found something so genuinely different, that year after year they traverse the desolate, barren shoreline of a volcanic island on the edge of the earth to partake in the head-banging bacchanalia.

cream of the burgeoning local scene, such as Auðn, Zhrine and Misþyrming.

WHAT: PINK Masquerade Party 2018 WHEN: 10 February WHERE: Iðnó Theater, Reykjavik The annual PINK Masquerade Party is the final night of the Rainbow Reykjavik Winter Pride Festival hosted by Pink Iceland. Meet the out, proud and fabulous people, and dress to impress as awards will be handed out for the best mask/costume. It is the most popular LGBT party of the season, so you better show up. Tickets are sold at the door. For more information on the Rainbow Reykjavik Winter Pride Festival go to www.rainbowreykjavik.is

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Hey

look!

What’s going on over here? Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on.

WHAT: Hjálmar Concert WHEN: 9-10 February at 10 pm and 22-23 February, 8:30 pm WHERE: Green Hat, Akureyri and Bæjarbíó, Hafnarfjörður

The Icelandic entrepreneurs of reggae music are among the most popular bands in Iceland, and their concerts are usually sold out. If you love swagging your hips to reggae and listening to the Icelandic language, you have to see them. If not, perhaps the captivating voices of their singers will get you. Hjálmar will play at two concerts at the Green Hat in Akureyri, North Iceland, on 9-10 February and later at Bæjarbíó in Hafnarfjörður which is just a short distance from Reykjavik. Tickets available at tix.is

WHAT: Scotch on Ice Comedy Festival WHEN: 8-10 February WHERE: Gamla bíó theater and Harpa Concert Hall

Come look at all the pretty horses. Photo: iStockphoto.com / 9th-

WHAT: The National Icelandic Horse Competition WHEN: 1-8 July WHERE: Reykjavik

See Iceland’s top breeding horses and the strongest tölt competition of the year, and enjoy being surrounded by Icelandic families and horse farmers who simply love the Icelandic horse. Icelandic folk singing might ensue at night. The National Icelandic Horse Competition is a biannual event centered around the unique Icelandic horse. You can get a week or a weekend pass with the Reykjavik City Card that gives you access to both the tournament and Reykjavik’s museums, thermal pools and city buses (Strætó), and more activities during the tournament. Tickets and more info available at tix.is.

Scotch on Ice is the first Scottish/Icelandic comedy festival in history! A group of Scotl and’s finest comedians is heading over to Iceland 8-10 February for the Scotch on Ice Comedy Festival, to see which place is more miserable in winter and help their friends in the north tackle the dark with laughter. They will also be joined by local comedians because if any two nations share a sense of humor, it’s those crazy Icelanders and Scots! All performances are in English. Scotch on Ice aims at mixing comedians from Iceland and Scotland for a laugh. Unpre dictable, funny woman Margrét Erla Maack hosts a warm-up show on 8 February, where anything goes, and a variety of comedy from both countries will be performed.

WHAT: Reykjavik Folk Festival WHEN: 1-3 March WHERE: KEX hostel

The Reykjavik Folk Festival is a three-day musical feast celebrating the diversity and breadth of the Icelandic folk music scene. Showcasing artists of all ages, this is a festival where you can listen to musical outpourings of woe and wonder from contemporary bands, but then be transported back in time to listen to the wonderful soundtrack and musical stories of times gone by.

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Local and visiting comedians then throw on a fantastic show in Gamla bíó on 9 February, with the adorable Liam Withnail compering. Liam is a rising star in the UK, one of the best comperes on the Scottish comedy circuit and has received praise

for his solo shows at the Fringe. Headlining is Iceland’s very own Ari Eldjárn, whose debut show, Pardon My Icelandic, at the Edinburgh Festival proved a major hit for the international audience. The grand finale will be held at the spectacular Harpa Concert Hall. The charming Jojo Sutherland, mother of Scottish comedy, will compere a show of all the visiting comedians: Eddy Brimson, Jay Lafferty and Liam Withnail as well as locals Bylgja Babýlons and Jono Duffy. But to finish the festival with a bang, the headliner will be none other than the great Tom Stade! A regular fixture on TV shows such as Live at the Apollo, The John Bishop Show and Michael McIntyre’s Roadshow, Tom has played to sold-out crowds at the Edinburgh Festival for years. Tom’s show, I Swear, was one of the most popular ones at this year’s Fringe, and since taking it on the road in the UK, he’s received nothing but rave reviews. A much soughtafter performer worldwide, this is a great opportunity to catch Tom’s live performance as he has never been better! Tickets are available at harpa.is

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Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

www.jswatch.com

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February – March

2018

ARIES

LIBRA

21 MARCH - 19 APRIL

23 SEPTEMBER - 23 OCTOBER

If you felt like you'd been put on a lower floor in life, you might not have been imagining it. We know it sucked down there so we've moved you back up to higher ground. Enjoy the view!

Blue suede shoes might sound cool in a song but wearing them in February and March is not a good idea. The stars recommend waterproof boots, even though they don’t match your outfit.

TAURUS

SCORPIO

20 APRIL - 20 MAY

24 OCTOBER - 21 NOVEMBER

Because you’re a Taurus you might think you’re strong like a bull but did you know that you can also be amazingly pigheaded. Time to use that strength for good, my friend.

We don’t know what you tell you, dear Scorpio. Your horoscope got lost in an interstellar incident. We’re sorry, but you will just have to do without it this time.

GEMINI 21 MAY - 21 JUNE The stars are thankful for Geminis; we actually love them. Lottery winnings, diamonds, prosecco and good fortune for you! *sprinkle sprinkle*

CANCER 22 JUNE - 22 JULY The stars have decreed that it falls on the Cancers to pamper the Geminis this month. If you’re married to a Gemini, you will have to put all your effort into it. Diamonds and prosecco are a surefire way to keep Geminis and by default, the stars, happy.

LEO

SAGITTARIUS 22 NOVEMBER - 21 DECEMBER Wow, you’re lucky you’re not a Scorpio. Did you hear what happened to their horoscope? Talk about bad luck.

CAPRICORN 22 DECEMBER - 19 JANUARY Well, your birthday was a bust, but now it’s time to face a new age with grace and dignity, ugly sweaters be damned.

AQUARIUS 20 JANUARY - 18 FEBRUARY Have you always been this cute? We just want to squeeze your cheek and give you hard candy. Sweet things are on their way.

23 JULY - 22 AUGUST No matter how much you roar, you will never get that stampede effect of Simba in the Lion King. Nor should you want to. That ended horribly, remember?

VIRGO

PISCES 19 FEBRUARY - 20 MARCH “Go shawty; it’s your birthday. We gon’ party like it’s yo birthday.” The stars have a surprise for you birthday babies out there. Stay tuned.

23 AUGUST - 22 SEPTEMBER Is there a burnout on the horizon? Take it easy and repeat this phrase: “Not my circus, not my monkeys.” Then just wait for your boss to give up and quit. The stars will do their best to help speed things along.

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Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsence. Any accuracies, real or imagined by readers, are purely incidental.

Get QR vCard

+354 861 5660

Book online: nordiccampersiceland.com

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WOW SUDOKU

REALLY, REALLY BORED? HERE ARE A FEW SUDOKUS TO MAKE TIME FLY.

BUT HOW DO I DO IT?

The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: Each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler?

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WOW AIR PROMO CODE

WOWHORSES Laxnes Horse Farm is a family owned and operated horse farm offering daily tours since 1968. With a wide range of horses we specialize in short and long tours designed to introduce our customers to the amazing, gentle and one of a kind Icelandic horse. Additionally we offer a variety of combination tours letting you get the most out of your day in Iceland. We offer pickup service in Reykjavik and the farm’s easy to find location just outside Reykjavik makes joining our tours easy if you have a car. “The best way to see Icelandic nature is from the back of a horse. Laxnes is our home and with our horses being part of the family our main goal has always been to combine well organized professionalism with a warm and friendly family atmosphere.” Haukur Thorarinsson Manager

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T THE TRAVELING INQUISITION

ICELANDIC HOT DOGS IN LONDON Icelandic fashion designer Vera Þórðardóttir and her British husband own the hot dog bar Chilly Katz as well as Bears Ice Cream Company in London. Vera’s favorite place in Iceland? Reykjavík. But she also loves visiting the West Fjords. Her favorite place abroad? London. Two great cities that you can fly to with WOW air. by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: from private collection

ogether, Vera Þórðardóttir and her British chef husband, Philip Harrison, own Chilly Katz, a hot dog bar, and Bears Ice Cream Company, an Icelandic style ice cream parlor. “Chilly Katz sells Icelandic hot dogs, salads and drinks. On the top of the list is “From Reykjavík With Love” the classic Icelandic hot dog but we also serve the Icelandic hot dog in different ways. For example, “Truffle dog” is served with truffled celeriac remoulade and homemade crispy kale and our “Kung fu Biting” is served with Asian slaw and kewpie mayo. All of our menu items are available as a vegetarian option as well,” says Vera. BEARS ICE CREAM COMPANY Vera says Bears Ice Cream Company has been very popular in West London. “We have one very high quality, all natural soft serve, and we give our customers a chance to get creative by dipping, rolling and smashing different ingredients into the ice cream. Our most popular ice cream is the Glacier where you can select three different toppings, fruits or sauces from our table, then we smash the ingredients into the ice cream to tailor your own flavor. We were in second place in Time Out Love London Awards and shortlisted for both Hammersmith and Fulham Business Award and West London Business Award.” Both Chilly Katz and Bears are based in West London. “Chilly Katz is in the center of Hammersmith, by Lyric Square. It is a vibrant area with plenty of shops and different restaurants. We, however, spotted a gap in the market for a great independent hot dog bar. Bears Ice Cream Company is on Goldhawk Road, on the corner of Ravenscourt Park.” A RE-LAUNCH Vera says that as a fashion designer and brand management consultant, she mainly helps smaller fashion brands find ing their direction with brand placement and designs for them a balanced product range. “I recently completed a re-launch of a brand called Sands & Hall where I was hired to redesign the brand and a collection for the British luxury market. The relaunch was very successful, and the brand has been recognized by Vogue and Marie Claire. I have also been collaborating with larger companies on brand strategy, most recently Havaianas. Besides this, I also lecture for MA in Fashion and Luxury Brand Management at Istituto Marangoni, an international fashion university.” REYKJAVÍK AND LONDON

Ísafjorður in the West Fjords.

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Vera was born and raised in Reykjavík. She says her favorite place in Iceland is Reykjavík, where, of course, you can enjoy the Icelandic hot dog. “I also love walking

around Reykjavík’s center and exploring Icelandic designers. My daughter and I are big Iglo + Indi fans and visit the shop on Skólavörðustígur. Outside of Reykja vik, I love visiting the West Fjords where my parents grew up. The landscape is magnificent, and the water from the steep mountain streams is the best in the world.” Vera has lived in London for years and says London is her favorite place when not in Iceland. “One of the exceptional things about London is that most of the museums are free, giving everyone access to some of the world’s greatest treasures. My favorite museum is the Victoria and Albert Museum. They have put together some of the most memorable exhibitions I have ever seen and have a beautiful collection of objects, costume and textiles along with my favorite library. It has amazing research material such as Vogue catalogs dating back to 1920, old patterns and rare books,” says Vera.

“I love visiting the West Fjords where my parents grew up. The landscape is magnificent, and the water from the steep mountain streams is the best in the world.”

dress code iceland

s n a p c h a t /c i n t a m a n i . i s

f a c e b o o k /c i n t a m a n i . i c e l a n d

i n s t a g r a m /c i n t a m a n i _ i c e l a n d

b a n ka s t rĂŚt i + k r i n g l a n + s m ĂĄ ra l i n d + a u s t u r h ra u n + a k u rey r i + w w w.c i nt a m a n i . i s

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Visit our stores: Skólavörðustígur 7 & 16 and Kringlan, Reykjavík. Hafnarstræti, A kureyri. Haukadalur. Geysir.com