World Leather October/November 2024

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News

2 News map News highlights from around the global leather industry.

4 Industry & Innovation New technology, new ideas from leather industry suppliers and service providers.

6 Leatherscene People from around the industry and famous lovers of leather who have made the headlines in recent weeks.

8 Backtrack Headlines from www.leatherbiz.com, the industry’s best and most complete news website.

Leather Leaders

11 China looks upwards Vice-president of the China Leather Industry Association, Chen Zhanguang, says demand for new-energy vehicles is helping increase optimism in the leather sector in China.

Technology

14 Show of resilience The Simac TanningTech 2024 exhibition in Milan celebrated the resilience that leather- and footwear-focused technology providers have demonstrated in recent years.

18 Stamping ground As the race to trace hides heats up, well established stamping technology from Gibson Bass is providing valuable insight.

20 Gains in stain resistance Colour options for car interiors are expanding, which means, according to Dow, an increased interest in durable anti-soiling additives for leather finishing applications.

25 Better business Lifecycle analysis (LCA) gives organisations the data they need to take informed decisions, Trumpler argues, making the exercise worthwhile from a business as well as an environmental perspective.

31 IULTCS update The specialist commissions that the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies runs for fastness and physical test methods have had a busy 2024.

Leather and the Circular Economy

32 Thought Leadership: Startling figures on hide waste New analysis shows that the carbon footprint of wasted hides is much greater than previously thought and that tanners do the world a huge service.

36 Thought Leadership: Added time on EUDR Postponed deadlines for the European Union Deforestation Regulation give leather manufacturers extra time to prepare, but a major traceability task remains.

40 Circular Stories: Careful path Accessories and footwear group Tapestry will increase its investment in leather, but will make its choices carefully, with circular principles at the core of its decisions.

42 Circular Stories: A valuable connection New ties to the China Leather Industry Association are making industry leaders in Pakistan optimistic about a massive increase in export revenues.

Beast to Beauty

44 Green machine Italian carmaker Automobili Pininfarina has unveiled the identity of the buyer of its first one-off, coach-built model, the Battista Targamerica, sparking great excitement at the supplier of leather for the vehicle’s interior.

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Cover image: The buyer of the Battista Targamerica from Italian carmaker Automobili Pininfarina, remained a secret until this October. See our Beast To Beauty feature to find out about the mystery owner and the special leather in the car’s interior.

CREDIT: PININFARINA

The World of News

FRANCE Production has begun at the new workshop that luxury leathergoods group Hermès has set up in Riom in central France. The new workshop is in a renovated tobacco factory in the town; 250 specially trained leathergoods artisans will work there. This takes the total number of company-owned leathergoods factories that Hermès operates to 23, which are spread across nine different regions of France.

SPAIN Spanish leather manufacturer

Tenerías Omega has announced that it is to close down. At its tannery, 40 kilometres south-west of Pamplona, the company developed a specialism for producing leather for transportation applications, particularly automotive. It was also one of the pioneers of the Olivenleder process, which uses residues from the olive oil industry in tanning, having carried out its first tests of the technology in 2016. Tenerías Omega had been in operation since 1991.

TUNISIA Tunisia hosted an event called ‘Italian technology, key to creativity’ in October. Italy’s export promotions agency ICE co-organised the event with leather industry bodies Assomac and UNIC. The agenda included a technical seminar and B2B meetings involving 13 Italian companies and 160 local operators. A delegation also visited local companies and the Centre National du Cuir et de la Chaussure (CNCC) laboratories.

DENMARK Travel retail group Heinemann has opened its first dedicated, duty-free, second-hand luxury goods airport boutique. It opened the new store, Pre-Loved Luxury, at Copenhagen airport in September. Products in stock at the boutique include certified, preowned handbags and other leathergoods from Hermès, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and other prominent brands. Heinemann said it had “tested the concept” by offering second-hand luxury handbags and other items on board cruise ships this summer of 2024.

ITALY Two leather-sector companies were amont the winners at Italy’s 2024 Sustainability Awards. This year’s edition was the fourth for these national awards. Leather manufacturer Gruppo Dani was named as one of the winners for environmental management for its commitment to facing climate change and promoting responsible use of natural resources. In parallel, footwear and accessories group Tod’s won in a category called institutional framework compliance.

GERMANY Carmaker Volkswagen is planning to shut at least three factories in Germany and cut pay by 10%, according to union leaders. Europe’s biggest carmaker has been negotiating with unions over plans to cut costs. The group said it faces pressure from high energy and labour costs, Asian competition, weakening demand in Europe and China, and a slower-than-expected electric transition. In the first nine months of this year, Volkswagen delivered 6.52 million vehicles, down 2.8% on the previous year.

RWANDA Rwandan dealers in hides and skins are seeking access to the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA) to expand their market, as the East African Community (EAC) market is insufficient. Jean D’Amour Kamayirese, representing the Kigali Leather Cluster, has said that over 100 tonnes of hides and skins are currently unsold due to limited demand within the EAC. Current regulations restrict trade of hides and skins outside the EAC, with an 80% tax on exports beyond the region.

KENYA The Kenyan government is seeking new international markets for locally produced hides and skins. This follows complaints from dealers about limited market access locally and abroad. The government is working with 16 training institutions to create a curriculum for leather technicians. One programme has trained more than 2,000 new abattoir technicians in the past year. The government said it wants to train people to turn the raw material into finished leather, and to make finished products with the leather.

UZBEKISTAN Uzbek leather and footwear association Uzcharmsanoat has celebrated its companies’ success at the September edition of Lineapelle, where they signed several large contracts. In a report, it noted that Peng Sheng factory showed shoe samples to suppliers from Portugal, Turkey, India, and Indonesia; tanner Hamkor Nur Savdo agreed to sell wet blue and crust materials to Portuguese and Spanish companies, while Ulkan Laziz agreed to supply special footwear to a Hungarian group.

CHINA The China Leather Industry Association (CLIA) has said it will launch a new event for finished product manufacturers in 2025. The new exhibition, Moda China International Shoes, Bags and Apparel Fashion Fair, will run concurrently with next year’s edition of the All China Leather Exhibition (ACLE) in Shanghai, with September 3-5 as the dates. The vicechairman of CLIA, Chen Zhanguang, said: “This marks a significant milestone in the development of China’s leather industry.”

The World of News

US Tanners, traders and packers in the US exported 17.6 million hides in the first eight months of this year, a decline of 8.4% year on year. In terms of value, hide exports brought in more than $715 million between January and August this year, down by 4.8% year on year, but wet blue exports continued to grow. Between January and August 2024, exports of wet blue increased by 15% in volume and 17% in value year on year.

TURKEY The Istanbul Leather and Leather Products Exporters’ Association (IDMIB) is set to host its annual design competition, ‘Detail’, aiming to foster emerging talent in Turkey’s $1.5 billion leather sector. IDMIB members contribute approximately 70% of the nation’s leather exports, making this competition a strategic platform to drive innovation and growth within the industry. This year’s competition will feature two categories, apparel and bag design, building on last year’s focus on footwear.

INDONESIA Footwear group Stella International has reported revenues of more than $1.1 billion for the first nine months of 2024, an increase of 4.9% year on year. Over the nine-month period, Stella shipped 39.4 million pairs, a rise in volume of 10.1%. But its average selling price per pair was down by 4.7% to reach $28.60. The group’s plan is to use a new factory in Indonesia to make sports shoes, freeing up more of Stella’s existing manufacturing capacity “to produce higher-margin products”.g.

VIETNAM Vietnam’s footwear industry is on track to reach its export target of $27 billion in 2024 after a recovery in orders. Exports between January and September are estimated at $20 billion. LEFASO, the Vietnam Leather, Footwear and Handbag Association, said many manufacturers have orders until the end of this year and into the first quarter of 2025.

BRAZIL Brazil’s competition regulator, CADE, has approved Minerva’s acquisition of meat processing assets from Marfrig, valued at $1.3 billion. The deal requires Minerva to sell a plant in Pirenópolis, Goiás, to address competition concerns. The transaction includes 11 of Marfrig's cattle slaughter and deboning units in Brazil, as well as facilities in Argentina and Chile. Plans to include Uruguayan assets were blocked earlier by that country’s antitrust authority.

GUATEMALA Leather belt manufacturer Tata Accesorios Globales has been named as a finalist in Guatemala’s Exporter of the Year competition. Tata Accesorios claims to be the largest producer of belts in the world. Chief executive, Rodrigo Toledo, said that to have achieved what Tata Accesorios has done was remarkable, especially because Guatemala does not have the raw materials required for the volume or quality of product the company is making.

Industry & Innovation

Portugal plan

Leather manufacturer Gruppo Mastrotto has acquired a majority stake in Coindu as part of a strategic move to support the relaunch and growth of the Portuguese automotive interiors materials manufacturer.

Founded in 1988, Coindu specialises in the design and production of high-quality leather and textile automotive interiors, particularly seat covers and decorative interior parts.

Group president, Chiara Mastrotto, stated that the deal would reinforce the business through downstream integration. “It unlocks potential synergies in both revenue and cost structures,” she said. Both companies aim to enhance production capabilities and expand their presence in the automotive market.

Durability, the elephant in the room

Work by the United Nations Industrial Development Organisation (UNIDO) to compile a guide for assessing the environmental footprint of leather reached a new milestone at Lineapelle in September.

A technical advisory group that UNIDO has set up reported its initial findings at the event and will now take the project into a new phase.

Its development officer for the leather industry, Ivan Král, said at the Sustainable Leather Forum in Paris earlier in September that the outcome he hopes to achieve is to walk a steady and sure path towards a platform for calculating accurately and explaining leather’s impact.

Mr Kral went on to say that an important part of the technical advisory group’s work was finding an effective way to reflect the contribution of durability to leather’s sustainability.

“Durability is the elephant in the room,” he said, “because making products with a long lifetime is much more beneficial environmentally than any other measure. But measuring durability is not so simple.”

IULTCS launches new scientific newsletter

The International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies (IULTCS) released its inaugural scientific newsletter at the end of October.

This new publication aims to provide the latest advancements in leather research, regulatory updates, technological innovations, and standardised methods specific to the leather industry.

The newsletter is designed to keep industry professionals, researchers, and stakeholders informed of the rapidly evolving field of leather science. By offering

At last, the Higg twigs

Environmental impact assessment tool the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (MSI) has updated its score for leather, attributing much lower impacts to the material.

The leather industry has been campaigning since 2020 to have the Higg MSI reflect more fairly the environmental impact of leather. Now, in an October 2024 update, it gives new average values for bovine leather showing environmental impacts that are lower by between 55% and 67% than previous scores.

As a result, the Higg MSI scale, which previously gave bovine leather a global warming potential score of 36.8 points, has been amended to attribute 14.6 points to the material. This is a reduction of more than 60%.

Using lifecycle assessment (LCA) information from the Leather Working Group and Leather Naturally, specialist leather industry-focused environmental consultancy Spin 360 submitted detailed data for leather’s impact to the Higg Index.

In its submission, Spin 360 used data collected from 45 manufacturing facilities across 18 countries for leather destined for use in footwear, automotive, leathergoods and upholstery.

The October update shows that the Higg has now adopted these more accurate figures as a new average for bovine leather. The leather industry bodies involved in this effort have reacted by saying this significant shift advances real change, promoting “a more nuanced understanding of bovine leather as a sustainable material choice”.

up-to-date insights, IULTCS hopes to foster greater collaboration and awareness within the global leather community.

This initiative reflects the organisation’s commitment to advancing leather technology and addressing emerging industry challenges through scientific knowledge and innovation.

Grants available

IULTCS and the IUR Commission, led by Dr. Volker Rabe, have also launched the 2025 IULTCS Young Scientist Grant Programme. The initiative aims to support young researchers under 35 working in leather science and technology, with grants recognising outstanding achievement. Winners will receive grants ranging from €1,000 to €1,500, sponsored by industry leaders such as Tyson Leather, Leather Naturally, and Italprogetti. The application deadline is November 30, 2024.

International leather industry calls for a fair COP

Organisations that lead the global leather industry have joined forces to raise awareness of the benefits of leather ahead of COP29.

The twenty-ninth United Nations Climate Change Conference will take place this year, with Baku, Azerbaijan, hosting the event from November 11-22.

In advance of the event, the International Council of Tanners, the Leather and Hide Council of America and Leather Naturally have united to reissue a manifesto calling on delegates to recognise the positive role that long-lasting leather products can have in reducing consumption and the environmental impact of fashion industry.

A first leather industry manifesto appeared three years ago in the build-up to COP26. In total, more than 20 leather industry organisations around the world put

Bovine leather processing at Scottish Leather Group.

their names to it and have done so again for COP29.

Expanding on previous messages, this latest edition of the Leather Manifesto aims to highlight to delegates the capacity for leather “to be part of the solution to climate change”, but it also calls for “informed, holistic measures of the impact of materials”.

It asks COP29 delegates to support the promotion of durable products, items that can be used many times, repaired and refurbished. Next year’s COP conference will take place at Belém in Brazil.

French parliament approves tax boost

Anational organisation representing shoe repair service providers across France, the Fédération Française de la Cordonnerie Multiservice (FFCM), has welcomed a tax change.

On October 26, France’s lower house of parliament, the Assemblée Nationale, voted in favour of lowering the rate of value added tax (VAT) for repairs to shoes and leathergoods from 20% to 5.5%.

FFCM said this lower rate of VAT represented “true recognition of the key role that our artisans play in the preservation of our savoir-faire and in the transition towards a more sustainable economic model”.

UITIC announces congress dates

The International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians (UITIC) has announced that its 22nd Congress will take place in Shanghai from August 31 to September 3, 2025. The event will focus on the theme of ‘Footwear Industry Competitiveness and Sustainability in the Era of Artificial Intelligence’.

The first two days of the congress will involve visits to local shoe factories, research centres, and educational institutions. A formal banquet, hosted by the China Leather Industry Association (CLIA), will be held on the evening of August 31. The following two days will feature indoor conferences with presentations and panel discussions on technologies for the footwear industry. Attendees will have opportunities to explore advances in AI and sustainability.

Encouraging result for Stahl

Chemicals group Stahl achieved sales revenues of € 687.9 million in the first nine months of this year, an increase of 1.6% compared to the same period last year.

Parent group Wendel said Stahl had achieved an encouraging result “in a

Industry & Innovation

context of tougher markets in automotive and luxury goods”. It pointed out that Stahl had suffered a fall of sales revenues of 4.7% in the third quarter.

Wendel said August had been “a particularly quiet month this year” owing to reduced activity in tanneries.

Bag designers are the target audience for software launch

Software provider Strategies has launched a new digital leathergoods design module as part of its Romans CAD suite.

Two versions of the software, RCS 3D Bag and RCS 3D Bag Expert, are available as part of the launch.

According to the technology provider, the software allows designers to choose whether to work in 2D or 3D, speeding up the process for developing new products and collections. The tool delivers “the seamless creation” of volumes for bag construction and real-time generation of 2D parts that are ready for cutting.

Net-zero goals are near

Scottish Leather Group (SLG) has published its 2024 ESG (environmental, social and governance) report, detailing the company’s progress towards its goal of net-zero-impact leather manufacturing.

Its 21st ESG Report reveals the group is now 90% of the way to achieving net zero greenhouse gas emissions for its scope 1 and 2 impacts, with 89% of waste recycled or recovered through its own processes. It aims to recycle 100% by next year.

The group offers 100% traceability of hides, ensuring zero deforestation. Around 98% of Scottish Leather Group’s hides come from the UK and Ireland.

Boost for renewable gas

JBS

USA has partnered with GreenGasUSA to expand renewable natural gas (RNG) production at its beef and chicken processing facilities in the US.

With an investment of $9.6 million in bioenergy projects, this initiative reinforces JBS’s commitment to sustainability and reducing carbon emissions. The project will begin with installations at sites in Grand Island, Nebraska, Hyrum, Utah, and the Pilgrim’s facility in Sumter, South Carolina.

By capturing methane from animal waste, purifying it into RNG, and distributing it through existing pipelines, the partnership aims to offset greenhouse gas emissions equivalent to 96 million kilometres of car travel annually. The first facilities are expected to be operational in 2025.

Common ground on traceability

Industry representative body COTANCE has said the preparatory work for launching a new Leather Traceability Cluster is almost complete. It explained that a number of organisations that focus on standards for leather production had been working together on traceability. COTANCE said they had been working to agree on “the essential requirements and means of verification” for tracing leather back to its origin.

Organisations that have formed the Leather Traceability Cluster are the Quality Certification Institute for the Leather Sector (ICEC), the Leather Working Group (LWG), Oeko-Tex and the Sustainable Leather Foundation (SLF).

Shavings prove valuable for fertiliser makers

Automotive leather group Pangea has announced its zero-waste initiative in leather shaving at its León, Mexico, facility will be realised by the end of this year.

In 2023, the site diverted nearly 2,000 tonnes of leather shavings from landfill, sending it instead to be made into fertilisers.

Italian branch

Supplier of shaving and fleshing blades to the tanning industry, Hardy UK, has announced a new Italian branch of the business. Its Italian facility, located in Santa Croce, will aim to enhance service levels for tanneries in the region.

With the opening of Hardy Italy, the company also plans to increase efficiency and better serve its growing customer base across Europe and beyond.

Ten years of LVMH’s Métiers d’Excellence

Luxury group LVMH has marked the tenth anniversary of its launch of its Métiers d’Excellence Institute with an event at a cinema in central Paris.

LVMH calls Métiers d’Excellence a pioneering skills training programme through which it aims to preserve and pass on “exceptional know-how” in areas such as leathergoods production.

It said at the Paris event that the programme has now become “the world’s leading private-sector training ecosystem for uniquely skilled professions”. It said that making its products requires 280 different professions, each of them demanding “exceptional savoir-faire”.

More than 800 people attended the event, representing learners, creatives, recruitment teams, partners and business leaders from across the LVMH group.

Leather scene

Assomac will fight a lone battle if it has to

The director general of Assomac, the industry body for Italian leather and footwear manufacturers, Agostino Apolito, has called on luxury goods brands to support the organisation’s member companies.

At the end of the 2024 Simac Tanning Tech exhibition in Milan, Mr Apolito said it was one problem for rivals in Asia to reproduce machinery from Italy, but a more serious one for luxury product manufacturers to be won over by these rivals’ lower costs.

“It seriously harms Assomac member companies for rivals in Asia to reproduce, to use a more elegant word than ‘copy’, our machines,” Mr Apolito said. “But it is even more serious for luxury brands to turn their backs on Italian machinery because of the lower costs of non-European products.”

He said Assomac hoped to work with other industry organisations, with the Italian government and with the European Union authorities to stand up against this, but insisted that Assomac was prepared to fight the battle on its own if it has to.

New chief executive to take over at Gucci in 2025

Luxury leathergoods group Kering has named Stefano Cantino as the new chief executive of Gucci, its biggest brand. Mr Cantino joined Gucci as deputy chief executive in May after five years at rival luxury leathergoods brand Louis Vuitton. He will take over the top role at Gucci on January 1, replacing Jean-François Palus Mr Palus, previously Kering’s group managing director, took up the Gucci role in July 2023 following the departure of Marco Bizzarri. Kering said Marco Bizzarri had “masterminded the execution of Gucci’s outstanding growth strategy since 2015”, but the brand had gone through a more turbulent time towards the end of his tenure.

The group said its main intention in appointing Jean-François Palus to the role last year was to “set up the foundations of Gucci’s next chapter and hire key talents, including his successor”.

Prominent industry figure to retire

Head of business development and industry relations at leather chemicals group TFL, Dr Dietrich Tegtmeyer, has announced his retirement. A past president of the International Union of Leather Technologists’ and Chemists’ Societies (IULTCS), Dr Tegtmeyer worked at Lanxess for many years.

He held sales and marketing roles in the leather business unit before becoming

head of product development there in 2005, following the retirement of Dr Wolfgang Wenzel . This role developed into a business development and industry relations brief in the course of the 2010s.

In this capacity, he was frequently on the speaker list at industry events in all parts of the world and used this experience to launch Lanxess’s own series of leather industry seminars in Cologne in 2016 with the aim of spelling out to finished product brands the value and qualities of leather.

When TFL finalised its acquisition of Lanxess’s organic leather chemicals business in 2021, Dr Tegtmeyer continued in the same business development and industry relations role there.

Former chairman of Tata Group dies

The business leader who steered the Tata Group towards becoming the international conglomerate it is today, Ratan Tata, has died. The group announced that Mr Tata, its emeritus chairman, had died in Mumbai on October 9. He was 86.

Ratan Tata took up managerial positions in his family’s company in the 1970s and became chairman in 1991, staying in the position until his retirement in 2012. During his time as chairman, the group’s focus shifted from producing and exporting commodities to developing global brands.

Brands that the group acquired during this period include automotive group Jaguar Land Rover, tea group Tetley and steel manufacturer Corus.

The group’s leather division still operates under the name Tata International. It runs tanneries at Dewas and Chennai in India and in Tanzania. It also has offices in Singapore and Vietnam.

SLF 2024: time to listen

The sixth Sustainable Leather Forum took place in Paris in September.

Sessions at the event covered developments in raising livestock, the perspectives of leather manufacturers in France, the environmental footprint of leather and current initiatives in corporate social responsibility.

Welcoming delegates at the start of the day, the president of leather industry association Alliance France Cuir, Christophe Dehard, said his hope was that the discussions at the Sustainable Leather Forum would “vulcanise exchanges between supply chain partners”.

He explained that what he envisaged were more in-depth conversations involving raw material suppliers, tanners and finished product manufacturers and brands, and for them “not just to hear, but to listen carefully to one another”.

Silvateam marks 170 years in Milan

Leather chemicals group Silvateam celebrated its 170th anniversary with an evening reception after the second day of the Simac Tanning Tech exhibition in September. The event took place at a restaurant overlooking Milan Cathedral.

In comments at the event, the director of Silvateam’s leather business unit, Antonio Battaglia, mentioned that the business started with a small chestnut extract factory in Corsaglia, near San Michele Mondovì in Piedmont, where the company still has its headquarters. Initially, the extract was produced for dyeing silk, and later expanded to leather applications. Now the company is involved in a wide range of applications that promote sustainable chemistry.

Calfskin warning for brands

Past-president

of ICHSLTA, Nick Winters, has said a decrease in the availability of calf skins is likely to affect the leathergoods sector.

Speaking at the Sustainable Leather Forum in September, Mr Winters said the annual volume of calfskins coming onto the market in France has fallen by around 600,000 in the last ten years.

He said that, in France, the availability of calfskins fell by around 7% in 2022 and by the same percentage again in 2023. In 2024, to date, he said there had been a further decline, which he put at 5% year on year.

“What this means,” he said, “is that the luxury industry is going to have to look for alternative materials.” He said brands might look at young bull hides instead.

Leather scene

Addition to TFL’s executive board

Leather chemicals group TFL has appointed Marc Schebben to its executive board, joining existing members Henrik Pedersen and David Blatch

Mr Schebben has been part of TFL’s C-suite team since August 2023 and will now take on a more prominent leadership role within the company.

In his new capacity as head of human resources, he will be responsible for shaping the corporate structure, guiding transformation processes, and overseeing human capital development.

Ali’s iconic leather glove set for auction

Aboxing glove worn by Muhammad Ali during his 1963 fight against Henry Cooper was expected to fetch between £4 million ($5.3 million) and £6 million ($8 million) at an online auction at the end of October.

Stuart Bull Auctions in Somerset uncovered the glove’s history, tracing it to leather from cape hair sheep dyed at Pittards Tannery in Yeovil before being crafted by Baily’s of Glastonbury for the British Boxing Board of Control. The glove, now stored in a secure vault, has a matching counterpart believed to be owned by the Qatari Royal Family.

‘Visionary advocate’ for leather dies

The Leather and Hide Council of America (LHCA) has announced the death of Shep Hermann, chief executive of the Hermann Oak Leather Company in St Louis, Missouri.

Mr Hermann was the fourth-generation leader of the company, which makes veg- and chrome-tanned finished leather. LHCA described him as “a persistent and visionary advocate for the leather and hide industry”.

Real Leather, Stay Different names winner

Astudent from California College of Art, Josslyn Shi, has been named as the overall winner of the Real Leather, Stay Different international student design competition for 2024.

She emerged as the judges’ stand-out choice for the overall prize from four category winners at the competition’s grand final. The US Embassy in London hosted the event on September 23.

Developed by Leather & Hide Council of America (L&HCA), the competition celebrates talented young designers who use leather as a natural alternative to fast fashion. Participants are encouraged to create a bespoke item using 50% or more bovine leather. Entries can be in the apparel, footwear or accessory categories.

Ms Shi’s design project is a jacket called Ephemeral Eclosion, inspired by the lifecycle of butterflies, impressed the judging panel with its combination of craftsmanship, innovation and commitment to sustainability.

Senior appointment at Scottish Leather Group

Leather manufacturer Scottish Leather Group (SLG) has appointed James Muirhead as its chief commercial officer.

Mr Muirhead represents the eighth generation of the group’s founding family; Andrew Muirhead, who launched the business in 1840, was his great-great-grandfather.

James Muirhead began working in 2006. The group said he had built up a deep understanding of SLG’s products and its customers. “This will make him a great addition to the board and invaluable to the group’s continued success,” it said.

Backtrack

World Leather’s publishing cycle and limitations on space make it impossible for us to run more than a carefully selected sample of news from across the industry. However, we publish hundreds more stories on leatherbiz.com. The site is updated every day with news from every continent and every part of the industry, making leatherbiz.com one of the most comprehensive archives of news anywhere on the web for the global leather industry.

We list below just a few of the headlines that have appeared on the site in recent weeks and can still be accessed.

30 October 2024

Leather garment downturn leads to closures in Turkey

Top spot in supply chain ranking for Pasubio

Timeless leather redefines the Air Force 1

29 October 2024

Porsche asserts it remains highly profitable

Surplus Leather Project provides students sustainable leather access

28 October 2024

Tapestry to appeal after Capri court set-back

TFL launches spring-summer 2026 leather colour trends

25 October 2024

New partnership boosts sustainability in Brazilian leather

‘Control over know-how’ pays off for unstoppable Hermès

SLF and ALLPI partner for sustainable leather

24 October 2024

No further Mulberry moves for now, Frasers says

Leather looks like the way forward for struggling Kering

Design-A-Bag competition 2025 now open

23 October 2024

China: not all bad news for luxury brands

22 October 2024

MILE Museum showcases leather’s sustainable evolution

21 October 2024

Adidas announces leadership change in global sales

Exports to Hong Kong boost UK beef

18 October 2024

‘Luxurious and rugged’ look in new Jitrois collection

Elmo returns to Design Post

China’s economic growth slows amid stimulus

17 October 2024

January-September figures show growth for Brazilian leather exports

Gruppo Mastrotto acquires majority stake in Coindu Ferragamo captures new European customers but Asia falters

16 October 2024

Codyeco launches spring-summer 26 leather trends

Nine-month fall of 2%, but LVMH remains confident

Stahl opens polyurethane dispersions facility in Singapore

15 October 2024

Higg’s ‘dysfunctional’ durability criteria draw formal complaint

14 October 2024

Competition in China keeps Volkswagen sales muted

SLF listed on ITC global standards map

11 October 2024

Yue Yuen manufacturing leads recovery

10 October 2024

Turkish leather industry groups hold joint meeting

Violence erupts amid Prato protests

09 October 2024

Hangover for leathergoods brands as China hits back

Isa Next-Gen partners with Apex footwear

08 October 2024

Cambridge Satchel announces ‘most exciting partnership’

Puma and PETA: Exploring leather’s sustainable fashion role

07 October 2024

Tuscan tanners seek government support

EU member states approve move to impose duties on Chinese BEVs

Sustainable fashion event wins Assomac support

Adidas unveils premium Italian Samba

03 October 2024

Inspiring venue for Phi 1.618

Nike revenues drop

Mulberry says no to Frasers Group offer Italy: strength in numbers for tanners’ association

02 October 2024

LVMH and Ruffini set stake limit Hide exports could be hit by US ports strike

01 October 2024

First winners of the Only Natural Student Design Competition announced

30 September 2024

ISA TanTec hosts US students in Vietnam

Bid from Frasers Group to take full ownership of Mulberry

27 September 2024

Veja and Asphaltgold launch sun-reactive sneakers

SCRD Plants 1.5 million trees

26 September 2024

Elche prepares for new edition of Futurmoda

Influencers boost global visibility at Lineapelle

Leather companies celebrated at Sustainable Fashion Awards

25 September 2024

Vegan brand ventures into leather

Leather sector companies sign Circular Fashion Manifesto

MLA report highlights red meat industry resilience

24 September 2024

Leather Naturally board appointments

23 September 2024

Mulberry earns B Corp certification

Leather Leaders: Chen Zhanguang

Increasing demand for new-energy vehicles and for high-end shoes, bags and apparel is helping increase optimism in the leather industry in China.

China moves upscale

What is the view of the China Leather Industry Association (CLIA) and of the leaders of CLIA member companies of the general state of the economy in China right now?

In terms of the overall direction, the situation is fine, but it is true that 2024 has been a difficult year; the economic recovery has been a little slower than we would have liked. The covid-19 pandemic had a negative effect on consumption here and consumer confidence is still weak; the recovery needs more time. There are lots of factors; it is not only about the pandemic. For example, 2022 was a good year for us, 2023 was so-so and 2024 has not been as good. But without the pandemic, consumption here would certainly have kept going up. Now people are being more careful and are keen to save money. This situation will reverse, but it will take some time.

What is CLIA’s opinion of the situation in the leather industry in China at this moment?

The domestic market was down in the first half of 2024. Since then, it has recovered little by little and we hope that will continue into next year. We are confident of a recovery in 2025, at least in the domestic market. For the reasons mentioned, many Chinese consumers, are being careful about what they spend. And because leather shoes are relatively expensive, the shoes that some people are choosing to buy these days are athletic shoes. In footwear in general, though, the growth of imports into China is greater than the growth of domestic production. This shows the significant potential that the Chinese market offers to exporters of high-end footwear. CLIA has calculated that the average price per pair of imported shoes in China in 2022 was $30.91. This is the highest among the top 20 shoe-importing countries in the world.

On that subject, important athletic footwear brands are now making a lot of shoes from suede because the styles of the 1970s and 1980s are popular again. Is this trend taking place in China too?

Yes, that is happening here too, which is good news for the tanners that specialise in split leather. In the last year, the prices they are able to charge have increased and demand has been very good. This is a good thing. But demand for grain leather is not so good at the moment and, of course, if you have the split you have to be able to do something with the grain side too.

CREDIT: ACLE

Many observers in North America and Europe are surprised by how quickly the Chinese automotive industry is driving the change to electric vehicles. What does this change mean for manufacturers of automotive leather in China?

Last year, automotive manufacturers in China produced a record 30 million vehicles and 9.5 million of these were newenergy vehicles (NEVs). That figure, 9.5 million, represents an increase of 35% year on year. This growth continued in the first half of 2024. NEVs’ share of the total, already more than 30%, will keep increasing. This is good news for the leather industry because traditional vehicles were using less and less leather, even though Chinese people in general think leather is good. Total leather production in China was down by 7% last year, but production of automotive leather increased by about 5%. NEV customers certainly like leather. Young people like these vehicles and they want them to be very comfortable and very smart inside. NEV manufacturers are using more leather to give users a good experience. I bought an NEV six years ago and it has been a very good experience, not least because it is around one-sixth of the cost to run compared to a traditional vehicle. NEVs have a good future in China.

Vice-president of the China Leather Industry Association, Chen Zhanguang, at the 2024 All China Leather Exhibition.

What is C LIA’s observation of the current global situation in the supply of hides and skins?

The price of raw hides is cheap; China is the biggest buyer of hides in the world and we have a high volume of raw material coming in. The US is our biggest market for wet-salted hides and Brazil is the biggest for wet blue and crust. Argentina is another important source. Meat production is stable in China and the consumption of meat is growing higher and higher. But the style of farming is a bit different from that in Europe and North America and there are limitations in the number of hides from domestic sources. Chinese tanners need to bring in many more hides and semifinished leather from other countries. These hides offer a large area, too, so they are good for making upholstery leather.

On the subject of upholstery leather, furniture manufacturers have had some very positive results in recent years, but 2024 seems to have been more difficult. What signs have you seen of a positive turnaround for furniture companies and for the leather manufacturers that supply them?

In the first half of 2024, furniture leather had a poor performance and the domestic market was particularly difficult. This segment, too, is recovering in the second half of the year. The situation in the international market is harder to predict. Tanners here have considered the possible effects of the US presidential election in November because the US is one of the biggest export markets for the furniture that Chinese manufacturers produce. While China remains the biggest market for US hides, any trade conflict will also be harmful to the US hide industry. If there is to be any disruption because of the election, our counterparts in the US should speak up about it.

What is your observation of the intense increase in regulations and legislation that manufacturers of leather in Europe are having to prepare for and comply with? Do Chinese tanners think this added complexity could be good news for them?

What the authorities in the European Union are asking for does seem to create a lot of hard work upstream, especially considering the lack of operational methods for carrying this work out, but I don’t think it will have any evident influence on the leather industry in China in the short term. We will pay close attention to the progress of these regulations and legislation.

You said that, in general, Chinese consumers have a positive opinion of leather, even though many are being careful not to spend too much money at the moment. What can CLIA and its members do to make sure consumers continue to have a high regard for leather?

We intend to launch a new event for finished product manufacturers in 2025. The new exhibition, Moda China International Shoes, Bags and Apparel Fashion Fair, will run concurrently with next year’s edition of the All China Leather Exhibition (ACLE) in Shanghai, with September 3-5 as the dates. This marks a significant milestone in the development of China’s leather industry. It is the right thing for us to do and the right time to do it. People are being careful about spending right now, but in general consumption in China is becoming more upscale, diversified and personalised and there is going to be increased demand among consumers in China for products from high-end brands. There has been a shift from consuming for basic survival to consuming for enjoyment. Moda China will help meet consumer demand for high-end leather shoes, bags and apparel and offer a platform for international and Chinese brands, designers and industry associations to bring products and brands to this market

The interior of a BYD Dolphin. Overall, leather production fell in China in 2023, but there was an increase in automotive leather. CLIA thinks the rise of new-energy vehicles is the main reason for this.

CREDIT: BYD AUTO

Resilience and innovation in the leather industry

Highlights from Simac TanningTech 2024

Celebrating its 50th edition since its launch in 1973, SIMAC TanningTech welcomed over 9,000 attendees to its 15,000 square metres of exhibition space. The event attracted a strong international presence, with 44% of visitors and 26% of exhibitors from more than 20 countries, highlighting the global recognition of the "Made in Italy" brand. The overlap with MICAM and MIPEL events further boosted attendance, emphasising the continued importance of industry events for sparking business initiatives. In the leather sector, face-toface interactions remain essential, as tactile and olfactory experiences play a critical role in transactions — elements that digital solutions have yet to fully replicate.

Now seen as crucial indicators of the leather and footwear industry's health, the autumn Lineapelle and Simac TanningTech events provide invaluable insights into market trends and strategic adjustments necessary for businesses looking to navigate the complexities of the current economic landscape. Despite concerns about a "fight or flight" mentality among companies, the reality has proven more nuanced.

In a recent reflection of 2023, the Italian footwear, leather goods, and tannery machinery sectors demonstrated notable

resilience despite global economic uncertainties. Data from ASSOMAC, the national association representing Italian manufacturers, revealed a 3.66% increase in overall exports, showcasing the sector's adaptability under challenging conditions. The tannery machinery segment stood out, experiencing impressive growth of 12.76%, driven largely by robust sales in Europe, America, and Africa. Conversely, the footwear and leather goods machinery sectors faced challenges, contracting by 4.61%. This decline can be attributed to the ongoing impacts of international conflicts

CREDIT: SIMAC TANNING TECH

and a weakened global economic outlook. Similarly, exports of spare parts saw a decrease of 4.02%.

Looking ahead, ASSOMAC President Maria Vittoria Brustia emphasised the critical role of institutional support in maintaining international competitiveness. “While 2023 demonstrated our resilience, it’s crucial that we relaunch investments,” Mrs Brustia stated. She highlighted the necessity of implementing Industry 5.0 policies and adopting long-term strategies to foster growth. The sector faces risks of diminished productivity and competitiveness without adequate incentives for digital innovations and energy transition initiatives.

Despite the challenges, marked by an overall export contraction of 11.55% in the first half of 2024, the tannery machinery sector recorded a positive increase of 6.77%. This growth stemmed primarily from foreign orders placed in 2023, demonstrating the sector’s adaptability and innovation. However, over 75% of sales during this period were concentrated in just ten countries, suggesting that many areas within the tannery machinery sector continue to experience challenges similar to other industry segments. The spare parts sector saw a smaller decline in exports, falling by 5.52%.

Mrs Brustia highlighted the optimistic outlook for the leather processing machinery segment, noting the growing recognition of Italian technologies in global markets. She stressed the crucial role of government support in promoting and safeguarding the “Made in Italy” label, especially in light of increasing international competition and the need for Italian companies to expand globally. The collaboration between SIMAC Tanning Tech and Lineapelle has proven beneficial, resulting in enhanced visitor exchanges between the two exhibitions.

Agostino Apolito, General Manager of ASSOMAC, underscored the event's importance as a global hub for the industry and the central role of innovation within it. He expressed optimism that recent discussions and engagements would lead to new opportunities, as evidenced by a rise in visitor numbers, and taken as a positive sign of potential future investments.

The Lineapelle and SIMAC Tanning Tech shows serve as vital platforms for industry stakeholders to gain insights, forge connections, and explore new growth opportunities in an evolving market.

Collaboration and innovation

In recent years, it has become increasingly evident that collaborations between technology providers are gaining momentum. At this year's event, these partnerships were more prominent than in the past, operating on several levels. The most immediate impact was seen with shared exhibition space among some, somewhat more understandable or justified in today’s climate of uncertainty, but these collaborations also offer something fresh to purchasers. Many industry experts noted that investing in upgrades to existing machinery has become less of a priority, with a stronger focus on exploring cutting-edge technology that promises a higher return on investment. As capital investment becomes more critical, pursuing innovation is seen as a smarter, more justifiable approach.

These collaborations can take various forms, whether through direct business partnerships between individual companies or by integrating complementary technologies for

Mindhive's advanced grading systems harness machine vision and neural networks to inspect leather with precision, identifying and classifying defects at a level often exceeding human accuracy. Designed to boost efficiency, especially in large-scale operations, this technology standardises grading and eliminates the need for repetitive manual sorting.

CREDIT: WTP

mutual benefit. An example of technological integration is the collaboration between Bauce and Hidexe, which involved combining Bauce’s samming machines with the Hidexe NHQ scanning system. This merger aimed to enhance functionality and deliver added value for both companies, resulting in improved efficiency and precision in the production process. The synergistic approach optimises the performance of the individual systems and facilitates advancements in industrial automation and quality control.

Another notable case is the Italtannery project, which brings together seven technology providers — Erretre, Fratelli Carlessi, Bergi, Ger, I-Tech, Bertech, and Huni. These companies are collaborating to develop a comprehensive data collection and analysis framework across the leather supply chain. The initiative hopes to enhance production efficiency by integrating real-time data into decision-making processes, thereby reducing downtime and improving overall quality. Additionally, the project aims to promote sustainable practices by minimising resource consumption and reducing the environmental impact of leather production, reflecting the industry's commitment to eco-friendly solutions.

Advanced finishing

A collaboration among another three companies has led to the introduction of a new approach to the leather finishing process. The Ascender machine, featuring a release foil system, provides tanneries with a compact and modular setup that can be used for standalone or in-line production. Available in three working widths, this system is said to streamline the finishing process, reducing the number of steps from half a dozen, down to just a few and significantly decreasing the finishing time from approximately five hours

with traditional systems to a maximum of one and a half hours. Additionally, the drying process is conducted at gentler, lower temperatures.

Developed by Barnini, IM Innovating, and Stahl, this technology aims to enhance leather processing by enabling the transformation of lower-quality hides into valuable finished products, thus promoting sustainability. The chemical solutions used in the Ascender machine are designed to improve leather quality, allowing for the upgrading of low-grade materials without the need for buffing or stucco application. These solutions are solvent-free, amine-free, low in volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and compliant with the latest ZDHC MRSL. The chemical compounds not only enhance the aesthetic properties but also improve the durability of high-quality leather goods, including footwear and automotive applications. Although the Ascender machine can operate independently of these chemical solutions, their combined use is recommended to ensure optimal results and meet quality standards.

Drum innovation

Italprogetti, a tanning machinery developer based in Pisa, unveiled its new Injection Drum along with a new company logo. The drum features a dual-layer structure with an inner stainless-steel core and an outer PPH layer, creating enhanced insulation. The drum includes heated plates for efficient warming, three folded shelves, and six staggered shelves to optimise skin processing. It also incorporates an advanced injection system and a 21-inch touch panel for user-friendly operation. Functioning as a vaporisation chamber for oils, greases, reagents, and resins, the drum supports various processes such as wetting back, retanning, fatliquoring, and fixation, and the manufacturers claim that the drum reduces water consumption by up to 85% by using steam instead of water, thus preventing imperfections in the leather. With its updated design and advanced software, the Injection Drum aims to improve efficiency and quality in leather processing.

Augmented reality

Swiss machinery group Zünd introduced a compact cutting system tailored to the leather-processing industry. The Zünd G3 cutter offers enhanced production efficiency by allowing nesting, cutting, and parts removal to occur simultaneously. The design is said to minimise downtime and aid the processing of medium-sized hides while enabling the easy removal of smaller cut parts. Key to the system was the Mind production software, which supported an interactive nesting function using augmented reality (AR) glasses. This patented feature allows operators to manipulate parts on leather, optimising the nesting process according to specific criteria. Zünd showcased live demonstrations of this mixed-reality technology, highlighting its effectiveness, especially on treated, shiny surfaces. In keeping with the collaboration theme, Zünd has formed an exclusive partnership with Mindhive Global to develop automated solutions for finished leather grading, further advancing technological innovation within the leather industry.

On the Mindhive Global stand, they showcased the automated leather grading system for high-volume manufacturing environments. The system, powered by AI and machine vision, integrates with existing samming machines, operating at full line speed. It provides precise inspection and

the 50th anniversary of the Tanning Tech exhibition, Italprogetti showcased its new visual identity and introduced the Injection drum. This system is designed to reduce water usage by up to 85% with its steam-based technology and includes automatic dosing tanks for precise chemical mixing, aiming to set a new standard in leather treatment.

CREDIT: WTP

classification within four seconds, grading up to 360 hides per hour and claiming a classification accuracy of up to 91%.

The system identifies defects using high-resolution imaging and rule-based grading, offering detailed reports and realtime data through a centralised dashboard. Integrated with ERP, enterprise resource planning systems, it enhances workflow efficiency. Early adopters report significant improvements in product quality and operational speed, making it a trusted solution for wet-blue tanneries.

These examples illustrate how strategic partnerships and technological integration can enhance operational efficiency and environmental responsibility in manufacturing.

However, it should be noted that the amount of technology and machinery on display has been greatly reduced from previous years. There is no longer the overarching rhythmic sound of drums turning, staking machines vibrating, or compressors firing up to provide much-needed air for spray machine demonstrations. Yes, the stands were smaller, and the space was optimised by moving the stands further away from the external walls. If the organisers want to conceal the visible signs of maximising space, they might consider sourcing a wider carpet to avoid the noticeable 18-inch strip of bare concrete on either side. Nonetheless, it should also be noted that by the end of the event, most participants left with a positive impression.

While foot traffic has significantly decreased compared to previous years, the quality of attendees has improved. Those who came had valid reasons to be there, with meaningful business opportunities and budgets to spend or invest in discussions about future projects. The industry is undoubtedly facing challenging times, but the resilience of the leather sector has always been a stronghold.

At

Multiple blades give an almost infinite number of marking combinations.

ALL CREDITS: GIBSON BASS

Traceability –the stamp of approval

The Gibson Bass Stamper is considered to be an important innovation in the leather industry, providing solutions for traceability, inventory management, and sustainability. Its customisation options, integration with digital systems, and strong construction make it a useful tool for tanneries and abattoirs seeking to enhance operational efficiency and uphold high standards of quality and transparency.

The Gibson Bass Stamper is a precision-engineered machine designed for marking hides in abattoirs and tanneries. Its efficiency is primarily attributed to an advanced hydraulic system capable of delivering 2,000 psi of pressure, enabling the machine to stamp through full substance hides in approximately one second. Each stamping head utilises up to 40 kg of force per cutter to produce clear, permanent marks, which is essential for maintaining traceability throughout the production chain. This feature is increasingly relevant as the leather industry responds to rising consumer demand for ethical and transparent supply chains.

Offering customisable stamping configurations, ranging from 3 to 9 digits, it can accommodate various identifiers, including serial numbers, barcodes, and hexadecimal

codes. This flexibility allows the machine to generate over 16 million unique identifiers, meeting the diverse requirements of the industry. It is equipped with an Allen Bradley Compact Logix PLC, ensuring seamless automation and network integration, which facilitates remote adjustments and real-time data collection on stamping rates, hide types, and other operational metrics. A significant advantage of the stamper is its role in traceability systems within the leather industry. By permanently marking hides with serial numbers, lot numbers, and date stamps, the stamper aids in tracking hides through various production stages, ensuring that the provenance of the leather can be verified from the slaughterhouse and along the leather processing chain. The machine’s touchscreen interface simplifies control over

stamping settings, such as stamp orientation and timing adjustments. Its connectivity to local area networks (LAN) further supports remote monitoring and data management, allowing operators to access critical information, including production rates and stamping performance.

It is made from high-grade stainless steel and brass, designed to withstand the demanding conditions of abattoirs and tanneries, ensuring longevity in harsh environments. The precision-engineered components, such as hydraulic valves and solenoids, have been optimised for durability, with reports indicating virtually zero valve failures in over 15 years of operation. This reliability underscores the machine’s effectiveness in delivering consistent performance.

The Gibson Bass Stamper features a compact footprint of 650mm x 500mm, aiding easy integration into existing production lines. The hydraulic power pack and control box can be positioned up to four metres away from the stamping head, promoting a flexible and uncluttered work environment. Installation is straightforward, with a plugand-play setup and minimal maintenance requirements.

In terms of inventory management, the stamper provides a consistent method for marking hides with individual identifiers. This capability is particularly valuable in toll tanning operations, where accurate tracking is critical for efficient processing. In operational assessments, the machine has demonstrated a 99.9% accuracy rate on batches of hides, highlighting its effectiveness in ensuring traceability and optimising production.

The integration of modern data systems is another advantage of the stamper. Its Ethernet connectivity enables real-time data integration with existing software systems, allowing for seamless data transfer, remote monitoring, and operational control from various locations. The touchscreen interface presents key operational data, such as stamping rates, hide counts, and species identification, providing valuable insights into production performance

COLOURS BY LANGRO

Cutting through the full thickness, traceability can be assured for splits as well as grain leathers.

Advances in anti-soiling technology

Dr. Lucia Bivona, Bertrand Lenoble, Dhanya Puthenmadom

Dow Europe

In addition to traditional black and deep brown, the automotive industry is expanding the range of coloured leather interiors. Dow has created a siliconebased, waterborne emulsion that acts as a durable anti-soiling additive for leather finishing applications. This technology offers effective soil repellency while maintaining the natural feel of leather. The silicone emulsion prevents soil penetration, improving the longevity and cleanliness of leather surfaces. It represents a significant advancement in leather finishing technology.

The widespread use of blue jeans presents indigo dye as a common source of staining on leather seats, due to its tendency to transfer easily to surrounding surfaces, particularly leather. This study focuses on understanding and mitigating the penetration of indigo dye through enhanced topcoat additive technology.

Investigating analytical techniques for soiling characterisation

The first step involved examining the distribution of indigo within the topcoat using cross-sectional optical analysis on a treated leather sample (Figure 1, white leather treated with polyurethane dispersion (PUD) but without additives). This analysis confirmed the presence of indigo on the leather surface. A second step complemented the initial optical observations, employing confocal Raman microscopy to characterise the depth of indigo penetration within the leather crust. This advanced technique facilitates the analysis of chemical composition to a depth of up to 100 microns, confirming the distribution of indigo both on the surface and within the bulk of the leather. The chemical imaging intensity scale used in this study correlates red and blue extremes to high and low concentrations of indigo dye, respectively.

Based on the analysis, it was demonstrated that indigo dye penetrates through the topcoat and into the basecoat if left on the leather for

Cross-section optical microscopy and confocal Raman microscopy images of white leather treated with PUD and no additive after soiling using the VDA 230-212 test method (EMPA 128 soiled jeans). The red colour corresponds to high levels of the indigo dye.

one day before cleaning. Due to this deep penetration beyond the surface, the dye remains even after cleaning with a detergent solution, in the absence of an anti-soiling additive, as illustrated in Figure 1

Martindale soiling and cleaning rub method

To address the requirements of automotive applications, Dow selected a standard testing method to assess soil repellency. The Martindale test method, VDA 230-212, evaluates the soiling and cleaning behaviour of leather used in automotive interior trim. The test involves rubbing a soiling cloth made from denim on a treated leather surface coated with an aliphatic polyurethane dispersion (PUD) and/or acrylic binders. Dow selected two soiled denim fabrics for the test: EMPA 128 and DENIM 2550-Y. EMPA 128 was soiled

Figure 1

with indigo dye, carbon black, and olive oil, while DENIM 2550-Y contained only indigo dye impregnated on a thick cotton fabric. To increase the test’s difficulty, the DENIM 2550-Y fabric was further impregnated with an artificial perspiration solution. All tests were performed on the surface of a white leather substrate, chosen to enhance the visibility of soil. For analysis, Dow focused specifically on the indigo component from both test fabrics, using calibrated Raman microscopy.

After soiling, the lower half of the leather sample was cleaned using a cotton cloth soaked in a detergent solution. An optical measurement of colour change, denoted as ΔE (delta E), was then conducted to compare the initial colour of the leather before soiling with its colour after both soiling and cleaning (Figure 2). The goal is to achieve the lowest level of colour change, or the lowest ΔE value.

Silicone

emulsion as anti-soiling technology

Silicones are widely used in various leather applications, including footwear, the automotive industry, and garments. One of the most prominent silicone polymers is polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), which consists of an inorganic backbone of repeating silicon-oxygen units, with two organic methyl groups attached to each silicon atom. The basic PDMS structure can be modified to produce silicones with a wide range of molecular weights, classified as fluid, gum, elastomer, or resin. Additionally, PDMS can be functionalised with reactive groups, such as organic moieties introduced onto the PDMS backbone (Figure 3)

lower flexibility and a negative impact on tactile properties. By carefully choosing functional groups, it is possible to fine-tune silicone properties such as surface tension, solubility, compatibility, and reactivity with other chemicals in the formulation. When silicone is incorporated into the topcoat and applied to leather, it can form a protective barrier that prevents indigo dye penetration while maintaining the appearance of the finished leather.

A Design of Experiments (DoE) approach was employed, varying parameters such as the functionality of the siloxane polymer, pH, and particle size of the emulsion. Each variation was evaluated using the Martindale rub method, and the colour change ( Δ E) was measured across all experiments. A specific set of emulsion parameters was identified, offering optimal soil repellency in both PUD and acrylic binders. The use of silicones with amino functionality,

combined with high molecular weight PDMS, enhances durability, protection, and lubrication of the leather.

The performance of this nextgeneration silicone anti-soiling additive technology is illustrated in Figure 4(b), in comparison to leather treated without additives, shown in Figure 4(a) The corresponding colour change values for the PUD and acrylic topcoat samples are plotted in Figure 5

Fine-tuning the emulsion of the siloxane polymer

Once the polymer architecture was defined, a crucial criterion for success was the ability to offer the silicone additive in a water-based coating without generating defects.

Formulating the specific silicone into a water-based emulsion provides an enhanced solution to the compatibility challenges posed by siloxane polymers when incorporated into PUD or acrylic emulsions commonly used in topcoat formulations.

The selection and optimisation of silicone functionality and molecular weight

The selection of specific functionalities and molecular weights allows the use of silicones in applications where other anti-soiling technologies may be limited due to

Figure 2

VDA 230-212 test method (EMPA 128 soiled jeans), picture of the white leather treated with PUD (left), and level of discolouration, ΔE (right).

Func – (Si-O)x

Figure 3: Chemical structure of organic functional PDMS backbone.

Figure 4

White leather treated with PUD water-based topcoat, without anti-soiling additive (a) and with the silicone anti-soiling additive technology (b).

Durability

To further assess the performance of this enhanced anti-soiling additive technology, a durability test was conducted, simulating repeated cleaning cycles as would occur with regular consumer use. The test involved repeating the soiling procedure on the same leather sample. Notably, even after four cycles of soiling and cleaning, the indigo dye repellency remained excellent (Figure 6)

Evidence of anti-soiling benefit

Confocal Raman microscopy was once again employed to analyse the indigo dye soiling. Leather treated with the new generation silicone antisoiling additive technology exhibited no penetration of indigo dye into the coating ( Figure 7b , compared to Figure 7a ). This indicates that the silicone anti-soiling additive effectively prevents the dye from seeping into the coating, thereby significantly enhancing the leather's anti-soiling properties. These findings also demonstrate the potential for silicone technology in other applications requiring soil repellency.

New generation silicone antisoiling additive technology

In addition to its anti-soiling performance, the newly developed silicone anti-soiling additive emulsion technology is produced without the use of catalysts. It has a shelf life of 18 months at room temperature and remains stable in formulations containing waterborne acrylics and PUD for up to one month. Importantly, this technology does not alter the natural colour of the leather (as summarised in Table 1)

Conclusion: silicone emulsion as an excellent anti-soiling additive technology for natural leather

Dow has developed a silicone antisoiling additive emulsion technology specifically designed for water-based binders in leather finishing applications. Using confocal Raman microscopy, visual evidence of dye penetration in both the top-and basecoats of leather was obtained, enabling a thorough characterisation of the performance of this new generation technology. The emulsion demonstrated effective and durable soil repellency while exhibiting

Measurements of optical discoloration of white leather with PUD (left) and acrylic (right) water-based binder topcoat, comparing without anti-soiling additive and with silicone anti-soiling additive technology.1

Durability of anti-soiling in leather topcoat (thickness: 34 µm wet). The silicone anti-soiling technology was dosed at 20% in acrylic water-based binders.1

Raman microscopy images of white leather treated with acrylic water-based topcoat, with silicone anti-soiling additive technology

without (a).2

Figure 5: Anti-soiling performances

Figure 6: Durable anti-soiling performances

Figure 7: Indigo distribution (after cleaning)

(b) and

excellent compatibility with the most common water-based binders. This technology has potential applications beyond the automotive industry, including furniture, fashion, and footwear (Figure 8)

References

1. Typical values, not to be construed as specifications. Users should confirm results by their own tests.

2. The graphic representations should not be construed as product specifications.

Acknowledgements

The authors thank Corentin Mars: emulsion preparation, Nancy Delys: application testing, Nathalie Wautier: optical images and Brett Zimmerman.

Credit

All images Dow, except Figure 3, World Leather (Feb-March 2004).

Figure 8

Need of the automotive industry (left) and Dow solutions for leather finishing (right).

We also own the largest wetblue tannery in France. CET can process up to 500 tonnes of raw hides per week.

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WETBLUE AND WETWHITE HIDES

LCA is more than an abbreviation: it’s transparency, efficiency, and better business

Dr Jordi Escabrós, Dr Benjamin Autenrieth Trumpler, Spain/Germany

Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) is a method used to evaluate the environmental impacts of products and services throughout their entire life cycle, from raw material extraction to final disposal. It helps improve resource efficiency, reduce emissions, and support waste management practices. Trumpler, the German chemical company headquartered in Worms, Germany, applies LCA methodologies to assess the environmental performance of its chemical products, contributing to greater transparency and data-driven decision-making. By implementing LCA, opportunities for reducing environmental impacts and enhancing sustainability across the supply chain can be identified and addressed. It also should be noted that more brands and businesses are requiring such information

Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) involves analysing the environmental impacts of a product or service at every stage of its life cycle, from the extraction of raw materials to its final disposal1,2. This entails considering every step of the process, from the extraction of raw materials to the ultimate disposal of waste, including the stages of manufacture, transportation, usage, and recycling. Both ISO 140403 and 1404444 serve as standards for it.

LCA is essentially the balance of materials and energy of the examined product system plus an evaluation of the possible environmental effects of the inputs (material and energy consumption) and outputs (air, soil, and water emissions) of the same system. Altogether, it provides a comprehensive and holistic view of the environmental loads of products and services under study, covering a wide set of environmental performance indicators such as global warming potential (GWP), acidification potential (AC), eutrophication potential (EP), ozone layer depletion potential (OLDP), human toxicity potential (HTP) or ecotoxicity potential (ETP).

LCA consists of the following crucial steps (Figure 1):

1. Definition of goals and scope5: The goals of the analysis are established, and the elements and stages of the life cycle that will be covered are decided.

2. Life cycle inventory: Data on the inputs and outputs of every step of the life cycle is gathered.

3. Life cycle impact assessment: This involves evaluating any possible environmental effects linked to the selected inputs and outputs.

4. Results interpretation: Interpreting the data to pinpoint areas that need improvement and offering solutions that will have the least negative effects on the environment is the most crucial step.

Direct applications:

• Product development and improvement

• Strategic planning

• Public policy making

• Marketing

• Process improvement

Trumpler values the importance of life cycle assessment (LCA) methodology in making data-driven decisions related to sustainability. This approach helps in identifying opportunities for enhancing resource efficiency, reducing emissions, and improving waste management practices.

The role of LCA in the leather industry LCA in the leather industry is essential to assess the environmental impacts at each stage of the production process, from raw material extraction to manufacturing and final disposal6,7,8 Chemical manufacturers in the supply chain support such analysis. The

Figure 1: Steps towards Life Cycle Assessment

LCA is more than an abbreviation: it’s transparency, efficiency, and better business

implementation of LCA in the leather industry presents several challenges and opportunities.

The challenges include:

• Obtaining accurate and complete data at each stage of the leather life cycle: Many different stakeholders are involved in a value chain. Quantifying a company’s own energy and physical inputs and outputs is feasible, though it can be costly in some cases. However, obtaining extensive data from external stakeholders remains challenging.

• Investment in technology: Smalland medium-sized businesses may struggle to implement life cycle assessment due to the costs associated with technology and training.

• Waste and emissions management: One of the biggest challenges in the tanning industry is effectively managing waste, particularly hazardous chemicals, and reducing emissions of greenhouse gases and other pollutants.

On the other hand, opportunities include:

• Reducing environmental Impacts: LCA helps to identify the most critical environmental impacts and focuses on minimising these effects. This encourages more sustainable and resource-efficient practices.

• Resource optimisation : LCA enables more efficient resource management, which can lead to long-term cost savings.

• Waste reduction: LCA promotes the reuse of materials and helps to minimise waste, contributing to a circular economy.

• Market differentiation: Implementing LCA can position companies as leaders in sustainability, appealing to environmentally conscious consumers and helping ensure compliance with environmental regulations and international standards.

In summary, while the leather industry faces several challenges in implementing LCA, it also presents numerous opportunities to enhance sustainability, efficiency, and competitiveness for both companies and the leather material itself.

Methodology

Trumpler assesses the LCA of chemical products following the

Table 1: Chemical products examined in this contribution

Product identification

PR1-PR7

PR8 BIO – PR9 BIO

PR10 BIO – PR13 BIO

Phenolic resin

Melamine resin

* Based on hydrolysed wet-blue shavings

Product category

Product nature

Liquid retanning agents Fossil based

Liquid retanning agents Biobased*

Powder retanning agents Biobased*

Powder retanning agents Fossil based

Powder retanning agents Fossil based

requirements of ISO 14044:2006 –Environmental Management standard. The product category rules (PCR) applied are the PCR of Basic Chemicals Version 1.0 (2021:03).9

This study presents the LCA assessment of 15 chemical auxiliaries manufactured by the Trumpler group and produced at its manufacturing site located in Barberà del Vallès. Of the 15 products, nine are liquid retanning agents and six are powder retanning agents. We consider collagen hydrolysate, obtained from chromium shavings, to be an intermediate of which we have also developed a LCA, and which is one of the core components of commercial products. Table 1 summarises the products examined in

Upstream

Production of Packaging Materials

Extraction of non-renewable resources

this contribution (see also Figure 4)

The study adopts a “cradle-to-grave” approach, utilising the principles of limited information loss at the final product stage. The analysis covers the following stages: upstream, core, and downstream. The processes within these established boundaries are illustrated in Figure 2

We utilise two software programs: GaBi (Sphera)10 and SimaPro11 (preconsultants). These programs are linked to two internationally recognised databases of life cycle information, including greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions: GaBi from Germany and ecoinvent from Switzerland12 . Ecoinvent is among the most comprehensive and widely used environmental databases

Growing and harvesting of renewable resources

Recycling of any Recycled input

Production processes of the chemical

Recycling of secondary materials used in Production Transport to Core Processes

treatment

Transport to an average retailer/distribution platform Use of the chemical product

End-of-life treatment of the chemical product

End-of-life treatment of product packaging

Figure 2: Schematic overview of a “cradle to grave” approach.

LCA is more than an abbreviation: it’s transparency, efficiency, and better business

globally, offering life cycle inventory (LCI) data for a diverse array of products and processes, including energy, transport and waste management. GaBi is another well-regarded database that provides detailed life cycle data on various products and processes, known for its accuracy and extensive coverage of industrial sectors.

Using LCA databases provide accurate and reliable data that are essential for conducting thorough life cycle analyses. These databases facilitate the standardisation of LCA studies, enabling more consistent comparisons between different products and processes. Our calculations were primarily based on experimental data obtained during the production of the intermediates synthesised at Trumpler. Key data in this context include information on energy inputs (such as electricity and heat), water consumption, process material usage, and waste creation and disposal. The intermediate materials produced mainly serve as the foundation for our commercial products and, in some cases, are sourced from by-products of the leather industry, such as chrome shavings.

To maintain consistency, this study uses a declared unit of 1kg of chemical product, including its packaging.

Environmental impact identification

The selection of methods to measure the environmental impacts and the impact categories follows the criteria described in the product category rule (PCR). The environmental performance of the products evaluated in this study has been calculated using the EN 15804 +A2 impacts assessment method13 (Figure 3)

The results of the various products evaluated were analysed using GaBi Professional Software. Four key environmental impacts were identified as the most significant: Global warming potential (GWP), eutrophication in freshwater (EP-freshwater), soil quality potential (SQP), and abiotic depletion potential for fossil fuels (ADPF). Global warming is driven by human emissions of greenhouse gases. The primary contributors to this warming are carbon dioxide (CO2) and methane (CH4), which account for over 90% of these emissions. The main source of these greenhouse gases is the burning of fossil fuels for energy.

The consequences of climate change

include rising temperatures, an increase in the frequency of droughts and wildfires, shifts in rainfall patterns, melting glaciers and snow, and a rise in global sea levels.

Eutrophication is the process where freshwater bodies such as seas, lakes, rivers, and streams become overloaded with nutrients, primarily nitrogen and phosphorus. This can lead to a range of negative effects. Phosphorus (P) is the key nutrient responsible for eutrophication in freshwater environments. The impact of eutrophication is measured by the fraction of nutrients reaching freshwater, expressed in kilograms of phosphorus equivalents [kgPeq.].

Soil quality can be assessed using a soil quality index, which considers factors such as abiotic production, erosion resistance, and mechanical filtration. This index is based on the content of soil organic matter and is expressed in points [Pt] according to the model developed by Milà i Canals (2007)14

ADPF: This indicator evaluates the use of resources with energy carriers from fossil fuels and is measured in abiotic depletion factor-fossil fuels and expressed in MJ.

Results

While the overall impact of the chemical products is relatively similar across the four most relevant indicators (global warming, ecotoxicity of freshwater, land use, and fossil resources), this finding suggests that we can improve the environmental performance by focusing on these areas.

The most significant environmental impacts across all products are associated with the production of raw materials and packaging, see Figure 4. Table 2 shows the contribution of different stages to the total GWP for products PR1-PR9.

The calculations revealed that products primarily composed of fossilbased raw materials, such as acrylic polymers and their derivatives (PR1PR5), have a higher carbon footprint. Notably, acrylamide-based polymers (PR6) exhibit an even higher carbon footprint than acrylics. This is largely because acrylamide production typically involves the hydrolysis of acrylonitrile, a process that is energy-intensive and generates significant emissions. In contrast, acrylic acid is primarily produced through the oxidation of propylene, a method that, while also

Figure 3: LCA impact categories

Figure 4: GWP of the examined products (see Table 1)

Figure 4 summarises the GWP of the products examined in the study.

LCA is more than an abbreviation: it’s transparency, efficiency, and better business

consuming energy, is generally more efficient in terms of emissions.

Powder retanning auxiliaries made from protein hydrolysates (PR10-PR13) display lower carbon footprints compared to products derived from non-renewable sources such as synthetic resins. This reduced impact is due to the use of proteins sourced from recycled materials, specifically residues from leather processing. Utilising recycled materials minimises the need to extract and process new raw materials, which in turn lowers greenhouse gas emissions. As shown in Table 2, the environmental impact of raw materials significantly decreases from 7289% (PR1 – PR7) to 59-67% (PR8 BIO and PR9 BIO) when renewable raw materials are incorporated.

Our study also found that chemicals derived from bio-based raw materials have a more positive impact on soil quality compared to those from fossil sources, indicating the beneficial effects that biomass from plants has on soil health. However, it is worth noting that raw materials derived from crops can lead to greater eutrophication due to the environmental effects of cultivation practices and the use of fertilisers.

In alignment with our commitment to sustainability and innovation, we are dedicated to producing low-carbon footprint products, such as bio-based chemicals derived from renewable raw materials. These initiatives reflect our dedication to aligning business practices with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and actively reducing greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions.

LCA a long way to go

Chemical life cycle assessment is set to become an even more vital tool for environmental management and sustainability in the future. The integration of advanced technologies, such as artificial intelligence and big data, will be essential for enabling more accurate and efficient data collection and processing, ultimately enhancing the precision of life cycle assessments.

Blockchain technology can simplify data collection for life cycle assessments by increasing transparency and traceability within the chemical supply chain. As environmental regulations are expected to become stricter, businesses will be compelled to employ LCA to comply with both local and international standards. For example, environmental

Table 2: Most relevant stages (GWP-Total)

Product Electricity Natural gas End of life Packaging Raw materials Transport PR1

certifications like ISO 14040 will remain crucial in demonstrating a company’s commitment to sustainability.

LCA will be instrumental in facilitating the transition to a circular economy by helping to identify opportunities for the reuse and recycling of chemicals. Companies will leverage LCA to design chemicals that are easier to recycle and have a reduced environmental impact throughout their life cycle.

Businesses will also need to be transparent about the environmental impacts of their products, using LCA to effectively communicate their sustainability efforts to consumers. As awareness and education about the importance of LCA grows among consumers and stakeholders, the demand for more sustainable products will likely increase.

Furthermore, LCA will be beneficial in the research and development of alternative, more sustainable raw materials, allowing companies to assess their viability and environmental impact. Organisations will employ life cycle assessment to optimise their production processes, reducing emissions and resource consumption.

Collaboration among industry stakeholders, governments, and consumers is essential to address these challenges. Promoting the widespread adoption of sustainable chemical products, favourable regulations, ongoing innovation, and increased consumer awareness are critical. LCA will undoubtedly play a significant role in this endeavor

Conclusions

A life cycle assessment can identify environmental impact hotspots within a product’s lifecycle, allowing potential improvements to be identified and implemented.

LCA provide credible data to justify sustainable claims. When making environmental statements, robust LCA

data enhances credibility and transparency. The data provided can substitute proxy values.

In the leather chemical industry, a Life Cycle Assessment fosters collaborative relationships with suppliers and tanneries. These studies promote greater transparency within the leather supply chain.

LCA offers a quantitative foundation for sustainability strategies, enabling organisations to make informed decisions. By understanding the environmental impact of chemical products, companies can develop more effective sustainability plans that enhance the ecological reputation of leather in the public eye.

References

1. Matthews, H. S., Hendrickson, C. T., Matthews, D. H. Life Cycle Assessment: Quantitative Approaches for Decisions That Matter. pp. 83–95 (2014)

2. Klopffer, W., Grahl B. Life Cycle Assessment (LCA). Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co (2014).

3. ISO 14040:2006 Environmental management - Life cycle assessmentPrinciples and framework.

4. ISO 14044:2006 Environmental management - Life cycle assessmentRequirements and guidelines.

5. Curran, M.- A. Goal and Scope Definition in Life Cycle Assessment. LCA Compendium – the Complete World of Life Cycle Assessment (2017).

6. Navarro, D., Wu, J., Lin, W. et al. Life cycle assessment and leather production. J Leather Sci Eng 2, 26 (2020).

7. Kurian, J., Nithya, N. Material flows in the life cycle of leather. J Cle Pro 7, 17 (2009).

8. www.eco2l-leather.com

9. https://www.environdec.com/pcr-library

10. https://about.sphera.com/

11. https://simapro.com/

12. https://ecoinvent.org/

13. BS EN 15804:2012+A2:2019 Sustainability of construction works. Environmental product declarations. Core rules for the product category of construction products.

14. Milà i Canals, L., Bauer, C., Depestele, J., et al. Key Elements in a Framework for Land Use Impact Assessment Within LCA. Int J Life Cycle Assessment 12, 5–15 (2007).

Advertorial: Qualus

Revolutionizing tanning and retanning: How Qualus Technology is shaping a sustainable future

The leather industry faces mounting pressure to innovate, driven by the need for efficiency, quality, profitability, and reduced environmental impact. At the forefront of this transformation is Qualus Technology, a UK-developed solution already making waves in Mexico, India, Brazil, and the EU. This article highlights the experiences of three pioneering tanneries — LEFARC and Suelas WYNY in Mexico and Megisserie Richard in France — that have embraced Qualus Technology to lead the industry toward a sustainable future.

LEFARC: Pioneering sustainability with early adoption

LEFARC, a Gold-rated tannery by the Leather Working Group (LWG) and a leader in the Mexican leather industry, was one of the first to adopt Qualus Technology in 2018. As part of its SAQUA sustainability initiative, LEFARC identified Qualus as a key driver of environmental and operational gains. By pre-enabling new drums for Qualus Technology in 2023, the tannery underscored its commitment to innovation.

The results have been remarkable, with significant reductions in water and chemical usage — critical factors in improving the environmental footprint. “Not only do we use fewer chemicals and water, but we also consume less power and chemicals in wastewater treatment,” says CEO Luis Ernesto Collazo. “For drums, this is the best technology we have found; it helps us a lot.”

Megisserie Richard: Elevating luxury leather craftsmanship

Megisserie Richard, based in Millau, France, specializes in lambskins for luxury products like bags, shoes, garments, and accessories. The majority Chanel-owned tannery, led by CEO Geoffrey Talpe, has always been committed to excellence in leather quality, a non-negotiable in the luxury market. In February 2024, the tannery integrated Qualus Technology to meet both quality standards and environmental goals.

The results have exceeded expectations. From Q4 2024, the technology is now deploying across all production lines, significantly reducing water and chemical usage while maintaining high leather quality. “Qualus Technology helps us deliver on our sustainability and Net Zero commitments while enhancing operational efficiency,” notes Talpe. Already a Silver-rated tannery by the LWG, Megisserie Richard is now targeting Gold status with Qualus’ support.

Suelas WYNY: Merging artisanal craft with modern technology

Suelas WYNY, another Gold-rated LWG tannery in Mexico, seamlessly combines artisanal processes with modern technology. Known for its premium vegetable-tanned leather products, the tannery supplies customers on five continents. According to Group Technical Manager Daniel Berger, the adoption of Qualus Technology has been transformative. "With Qualus, we’ve achieved more consistent quality, better hand layout, and increased yields while reducing waste."

Suelas WYNY's use of Qualus has enabled substantial reductions in water usage and chemical inputs, aligning with its sustainability and profitability goals. This integration allows the

tannery to preserve the authenticity of its traditional tanning methods while embracing innovation, reinforcing its position as a leader in sustainable leather production.

A vision for the future: Insights from Qualus’ CEO Kerry Brozyna, CEO of Qualus, brings over 30 years of experience in the leather industry, with a passion for combining traditional craftsmanship with modern technology to enhance sustainability. His leadership has been instrumental in guiding Qualus' mission to revolutionize the industry.

“I’m incredibly excited by the positive impact Qualus Technology is having,” Brozyna says. “Leather is undergoing rapid evolution. To stay competitive, we must show lower carbon and environmental impacts. Success stories from customers like LEFARC, Megisserie Richard, and Suelas WYNY show the effectiveness of our technology in driving continuous improvement.”

Brozyna envisions Qualus as more than just a technological innovator — it is a catalyst for reshaping an industry that has lost ground to other materials, many of which are inferior in appearance, performance, durability, and environmental footprint compared to leather. “By addressing industry challenges head-on, Qualus is helping to redefine leather manufacturing for the better.”

Conclusion: A sustainable future for leather tanning

The adoption of Qualus Technology by tanneries like LEFARC, Megisserie Richard, and Suelas WYNY marks a significant step toward a more sustainable leather industry. The technology offers a real solution for tanneries aiming to protect high-quality standards while reducing their environmental impact. Qualus Technology is proving indispensable in driving the industry toward a greener, more profitable future. Join us!

CREDIT: LEFARC

CREDIT: QUALUS

Busy year for IULTCS IUF and IUP Technical Committees

During the past year, November 2023 through October 2024, five meetings were held of the IUP (CEN TC 289 WG2) and IUF (CEN TC 289 WG3) commissions. Following established practice, the meetings of the two were convened consecutively on the same days: November 24, 2023; January 25, April 8, June 17, and September 2024.

Additionally, a plenary session took place on October 10 this year and a final meeting is scheduled for December 2, to wrap up the year’s activities. This brings the total to ten regular meetings, one plenary session, and two additional meetings planned by year’s end.

Key activities and accomplishments

The review and publication of two significant standards were completed:

ISO 2418:2023 – Leather - Chemical, physical, mechanical, and fastness tests - Position and preparation of specimens for testing

ISO 2419:2012 – Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Specimen and test piece conditioning

In the updated versions, several improvements were made:

• Redundancies within the scope of both standards were eliminated.

• The placement and preparation of samples were consolidated under ISO 2418, while ISO 2419 was limited to conditioning procedures.

• Terminology was refined in line with ISO’s requirements for English language usage.

Following these revisions, attention was directed towards updating a series of related standards. The following considerations were taken into account:

Cross-disciplinary relevance: As both ISO 2418 and 2419 apply across multiple testing categories—chemical (IUC), physical-mechanical (IUP), and fastness (IUF)—it will be necessary for each of the three commissions to incorporate these updates into future revisions.

Wording and translation: Agreement was reached regarding the correct terminology to be used in future standards, based on ISO recommendations. Representatives from participating countries will be responsible for translating these terms into their respective languages.

The completion of these revisions represents the final phase of a process that began three years ago within the IUF (CEN TC 289 WG3) commission, which involved replacing the outdated ISO 105 A 01 with the more leather-specific ISO 7906 (Leather — Tests for colour fastness — General principles of testing). This change necessitated a broader revision campaign, which will continue in the form of regular updates over time.

IUP Commission / CEN TC 289 WG2 activities

The following standards were updated under the IUP Commission:

• ISO 2419:2024 – Leather - Physical and mechanical tests

- Specimen and test piece conditioning

• ISO 2417:2016 – Leather - Physical and mechanical tests

- Determination of the static absorption of water

• ISO 3377-2:2016 – Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of tear load - Part 2: Double edge tear

• ISO 17236:2016 – Leather - Physical and mechanical tests

- Determination of extension set

• ISO 3379:2015 – Leather - Determination of distension and strength of surface (Ball burst method)

• ISO 17232 – Leather - Physical and mechanical testsDetermination of heat resistance of patent leather

• ISO 5403-1 – Leather - Determination of water resistance of flexible leather - Part 1: Repeated linear compression (penetrometer)

IUF Commission / CEN TC 289 WG3 activities

The IUF Commission was responsible for revising the following standards related to colour fastness:

• ISO 20433:2012 – Leather - Tests for colour fastness –Colour fastness to crocking

• ISO 20701:2018 – Leather - Tests for colour fastness –Colour fastness to saliva

• ISO 11641 – Leather - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to perspiration

• ISO 11642 – Leather - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to water

Two new standards developed

In addition to these updates, two new standards were drafted:

1. ISO/DIS 25089 – Leather - Tests for colour fastness –Colour fastness to seawater

This standard was adapted from ISO 105-E02:1994 (Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part E02: Colour fastness to seawater) to meet the specific requirements of leather testing.

2. ISO/DIS 7979 – Leather – Tests for colour fastness –Colour fastness to hydroalcoholic mixtures

This new standard was developed to address testing in environments involving hydroalcoholic substances.

Acknowledgements

The work carried out would not have been possible without the dedicated contributions of the committee members who consistently participated in the meetings:

Andrés Molla Chico de Guzmán – UNE, Spain; Anne Minjaud – AFNOR, France; Campbell Page – SNV, Switzerland, ISO Secretary; Catherine Glasspool – BSI, UK; Elena Bañon Gil – UNE, Spain; Elisabetta Scaglia – UNI, Italy; Joaquim Gaião – IPQ, Portugal; Paola Visintin – UNI, Italy, CEN Secretary.

Leather and the circular economy

Credit: WTP/Flaticon

A startling revelation

Choosing not to turn hides into leather has a much more serious impact on the environment than previous estimates suggested. New analysis by the Leather and Hide Council of America (LHCA) indicates a serious under-calculation of the emissions that accrue if the material goes to waste.

Figures from the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) for live cattle in 2022 give a global total of just over 1.5 billion head. It presents this overall number as an estimate. Within that, it describes its figures for important cattle-rearing countries, including India and Ethiopia, as “imputed values”. This usually means data for those countries was hard to come by and the FAO has used numbers that it believes are plausible and coherent to put down a value for those countries.

From this global cattle herd, LHCA senior vice-president, Kevin Latner, thinks 334 million hides could, in theory, be available to tanners every year. He acknowledges that this is higher than the figure the FAO offers; the organisation’s latest calculation is 308 million for the year 2022. This includes no contribution to the total from India, for example; Mr Latner’s adjusted figures reflect information he has received from industry contacts in that part of the world.

Theory is all very well, but millions of hides never make it into the leather value chain, as we have known for many years.

New statistics show that the carbon footprint of wasted hides is much higher than previously thought; tanners’ work on the rest saves millions of tonnes of emissions per year.

LHCA suggests that 30% of cattle hides in India are going into landfill now and that the figure for Ethiopia could be markedly higher. Close to home, it says that, from a figure of 7% in 2023, the percentage of hides going to waste in the US at the moment is closer to 15%. It accepts that there are differences in hide usage in different parts of the world and says it would welcome help in establishing “more robust figures” for parts of the world for which reliable data is harder to source. Its analysis is that, overall, 40% of the total volume available goes to waste. This amounts to 134 million hides per year.

New approaches

LHCA is excited about the possibility of “new approaches” helping to convince brands and consumers that making this

Use of leather aids the battle against marine pollution, also part of the SDGs

The leather industry opens up pathways into the circular economy for companies of all sizes, including many thousands of small and medium enterprises

Leather content fulfils finished product manufacturers’ desire to use recycled material

Finished products made from leather will meet criteria for green tax relief and for green procurement exercises

“If ten hides go to waste, that’s 3 tonnes of emissions, but we don’t have just ten going to waste, we have 134 million.”

KEVIN LATNER

material into leather, and manufacturing and buying products made from leather, is a better idea than letting the hides rot. As we have reported already in World Leather , the Washington DC-based organisation has been working on a new lifecycle analysis (LCA) programme for nearly three years now and is, according to Mr Latner, “very close to having a finished product now”.

There are aspects of this on which he wants industry partners to help with. These include establishing what he calls a “multi-geographic animal agriculture component”. This would help make a single LCA methodology useable across the industry. Applying the same economic allocation based on the hide’s share of the notional economic value of the animal in every geography is unfair, he says. “I know there are people who would like to apply zero allocation everywhere,” the LHCA senior vice-president says, “but that may not be possible. At the same time, in a place where 90% of this potential raw material is going to waste, any hide the leather industry does use clearly has zero economic value.” His hope is that the multi-geographic component could help clarify this.

Visions of the possible

A second aspect that he intends to include in the finished LCA product is one we particularly want to highlight in this article. It points to an important principle in all discussions about the circular economy, which is about visions of what is possible. LCA shows what a company, a community or a society does with its resources. Circular economy thinking highlights what they might have done with those resources to use them to the full and to keep the value of the materials as high as possible for as long as possible. Leather has always been a crystal-clear example of upcycling of this kind, which is why it is a perfect material for the circular economy.

In this instance, though, the focus is on what happens when meat companies and finished product brands ignore the hides’ enormous potential and allow the material to go to waste. Unlike the intense debate that surrounds the emissions that processing cattle hides into leather generates, details about the emissions this activity saves are hard to come by.

The saving is huge, much bigger than earlier estimates suggest. These estimates have used the calculations that a handful of academics and public bodies have come up with to help them address the important problem of food waste. Organic matter that goes into an anaerobic environment, such as a landfill, creates methane, some of which moves into the atmosphere. Logically, this applies to the organic matter that is left over when abattoirs prepare cattle for the meat industry, and this includes the hide.

Returning to the question of allocation for a moment, whatever economic or environmental allocation you put on the hide from what happens upstream, all of it goes to waste if you do not use the hide.

One calculation we have seen, from the public authority running a major US city, equates emissions from food waste

with 80% of the amount of waste itself. This is to say that 100 tonnes of food waste would emit 80 tonnes of CO2equivalent. “I have seen that figure too,” Kevin Latner says. “It isn’t correct.” In his search for greater accuracy, he spoke about this to campaign group the World Wildlife Fund and his contacts there advised him to look at the work of ReFED. He is glad he did.

Work on food waste

ReFED is a Chicago-based (although “100% remote”) nonprofit organisation that works to help communities reduce food waste. It launched in 2015 with the goal of helping achieve a 20% reduction in food waste across the whole of the US. Since then, it says it has evolved into “one of the nation’s leading food waste organisations” and is continuing its efforts to build a more sustainable, resilient, and inclusive food system.

Transposing its figures into metric, its research shows that the US had a food supply of just over 210 million tonnes in 2022, of which 38% remained unsold or uneaten. ReFED has said that, each year, only a small proportion of this “surplus food” finds its way into donations to those in need. Some of it is recycled, often as compost.

But it says most of this surplus becomes food waste and goes to landfill, for incineration, down the drain, or is left in the fields to decay. Its estimate is that 33% of all the food produced in the US goes to waste in one of these ways. One holiday alone, Thanksgiving, when most US families prepare a special meal, generated more than 140 million kilos of food waste in 2023, according to ReFED.

Double standards

This, and the similar levels of food waste that occur in other developed economies, is an affront to the 733 million people across the world who, according to the FAO, faced hunger in 2023. It is also a huge waste of money. And to return to the

LHCA senior vice-president, Kevin Latner.

Credit: LHCA

main focus of this article, food waste also represents a major source of greenhouse gas emissions in itself and a waste of the emissions expended in producing it. “Food that is produced but never eaten still requires enormous resources to grow, harvest, transport, cool, cook or otherwise prepare, even when it is disposed of,” ReFED says. “When food goes uneaten, the resources used to produce it go to waste as well.”

In its work to calculate the greenhouse gas emissions associated with food loss and waste, ReFED quotes the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as saying that between 20% and 25% of all the material going into landfill in the US is food waste. However, according to the EPA, organic matter from food sources makes “an outsize contribution”.

Food waste’s 20% or 25% share of the volume of material in landfills is responsible for 58% of landfills’ methane emissions, the agency has announced following a study it published at the end of 2023. Therefore, aside from the social and economic imperatives for preventing food from going to waste, anyone who presses for methane reduction for environmental reasons must also take this matter seriously or stand accused of having double standards.

Home in on hides

If applying these figures to cattle hides seems complicated, it helps to look at the ReFED website. This includes an impact calculator that allows you to work out the environmental footprint of allowing different kinds of food to go to waste in a variety of ways.

Hides fit into the impact calculator’s ‘fresh meat and seafood’ category. Producing them in an abattoir comes under ‘manufacturing’. For the sake of consistency and clarity, we picked metric tonnes as the unit of measurement. You can then choose from a variety of ways of disposing of the material and the tool tells you what its total greenhouse gas footprint would be.

According to the results, to deposit one tonne of hides in landfill would generate just over 13 tonnes of CO2equivalent. Other methods, including incinerating them or putting them into an anaerobic digestion unit, show a footprint of under 13 but more than 12 tonnes. It is 12.01 tonnes if you opt just to dump them. The middle value, then, is 12.5 tonnes of CO2-equivalent.

We used to say of the hides ‘use them or lose them’, but the situation is far more serious than that. Putting hides into landfill multiplies their carbon footprint by 13.

Credit: Magic Orb Studio/Shutterstock

“If the weight of one hide is, on average, 25 kilos, the carbon footprint of each one that goes to waste will be more than 300 kilos of CO2-equivalent,” Kevin Latner says. “If ten go to waste, that’s 3 tonnes of emissions. But we don’t have just ten hides going to waste, we have 134 million of them. Choosing not to turn those hides into leather generates emissions of more than 40 million tonnes of CO2-equivalent every year.”

This means that by turning the remaining 200 million hides into leather, tanners are saving emissions of nearly 60 million tonnes of CO2-equivalent every year. Perhaps one day they will receive some credit for this.

Cattle

(millions) available per

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From the bark of the acacia mearnsii tree to the world’s most beautiful leather

Buyers want detailed information about the leather they are sourcing but, under EUDR, the European Commission wants to know even more.

Credit: Lineapelle

Added time, but EUDR ordeal still looms

The European Union Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) still represents a major challenge to the leather industry in Europe and its suppliers around the world. High hurdles remain in place in the shape of the traceability, data collection and other requirements the regulation will impose, but leather manufacturers and their partners no longer face an implausibly urgent deadline for clearing them. They will now have an extra 12 months to complete their preparations for compliance.

This is because the European Commission has announced a year-long extension to allow the industries that have to comply with EUDR to prepare. EUDR will now come into force for larger companies on December 30, 2025, and on June 30, 2026, for smaller companies. This is subject to the approval of the European Parliament, which the Commission is confident of securing before the end of 2024. The European Council, which is also part of part of the executive of the European Union (EU), composed of the heads of government or other senior ministers from the 27 member states, has already given its approval for the extension. The parliament’s environment committee has approved an ‘urgency procedure’ for this and a final vote will take place at its November plenary.

Global partners express concerns

Announcing the proposed extension at the start of October, the European Commission said: “Given feedback received from international partners, the Commission proposes to give

Important recent developments make it imperative for us to return to the subject of EUDR.

concerned parties additional time to prepare. The extra 12 months can serve as a phasing-in period to ensure proper and effective implementation.” It added: “Several global partners have repeatedly expressed concerns about their state of preparedness, most recently during the United Nations General Assembly week in New York [in late September]. Moreover, the state of preparations amongst stakeholders in Europe is also uneven.”

Throughout the year, the volume of the expressions of concern built up. A coalition of the agriculture ministries of 20 EU member states, led by Austria, asked in March for a delay and for the simplification of EUDR. In June, senior US government figures also wrote to Brussels to ask for a delay. In July, industry and trade organisations, through an advocacy group called BusinessEurope, asked for an extension to the deadline. Brazil added its voice to this call in September. Soon afterwards, the heads of government in the EU’s largest economy, Germany, and third-largest, Italy, also asked the Commission to press the pause button. Around the same time, the director general of the World Trade Organization, Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala, asked the Commission to take another look at the regulation and its likely impact on global trade.

Added time, but EUDR ordeal still looms

From Poland to Paraguay

They were playing catch-up with leather. EU body COTANCE and Italy’s UNIC revealed in February that they had submitted a whole series of “key, unanswered questions” about EUDR. Both organisations have now welcomed the extra 12 months’ preparation time but it was clear at a seminar that they led at Lineapelle in Milan in September that they are under no illusions about how much work lies ahead. It is equally clear that they would rather see leather’s EUDR obligations removed altogether. “We have tried to get out of it,” says COTANCE secretary general, Gustavo Gonza lez-Quijano. “Tanners should not be stigmatised for something they are not responsible for. It is like something from the Middle Ages. How can the recycling of a residue drive deforestation?”

A vote on EUDR exemptions took place in the European Parliament in 2022. Leather industry representatives had lobbied hard to win an exemption and 277 members of the parliament voted in their favour; but 338 voted against.

“EUDR is The Big Bang,” Mr González-Quijano insists. “To meet its requirements, we will need to have control of all the hides in circulation. And if only traceable hides are allowed into the European Union, as EUDR demands, there will be a big difference between EU leather and the rest of the global market.” European operators offering hides, skins, semi-finished and finished leather to customers (inside or outside the EU) will be required to have documentation in place to show that their material has no link to land where deforestation has taken place since 2020. This applies as much to hides they source from Poland as it does to material from Paraguay.

He points out that companies that make and sell finished leather products may find themselves caught up in this too. EUDR does not apply to those finished products directly, but manufacturers of, say, handbags, who want to sell their surplus material to other companies will be affected by the EUDR. In the very near future a sale of this kind will require documentation to show that this leather is EUDRcompliant. The secretary- general’s advice to manufacturers of leathergoods is that they, too, will need to have good control of their stocks.

Standard practice

“Hides and skins obtain an identity separate from that of the animal at the slaughterhouse,” COTANCE says, “and, as by-products, information on the previous lifecycle of the hides and skins is lost in the vast majority of cases around the globe.” Finding ways of pulling the necessary data together and submitting it to the correct database in the correct way at the correct time will cost labour and money. This is a burden that competitors in other parts of the world will not have to bear. COTANCE says that in the end 20 of the EU’s 27 member states submitted formal requests for a delay of EUDR and that the World Trade Organization has warned that the requirements could represent a barrier to free trade. If all this pressure helped secure the 12month postponement, it worked, but only up to a point. “We still need to prepare for EUDR,” the secretary general says.

The organisation’s efforts to help the industry ready itself for the extra work continues. It has put in place a new Leather Traceability Cluster with all certification and audit bodies active in the leather industry. These are the Quality Certification Institute for the Leather Sector (ICEC), the Leather Working Group (LWG), Oeko-Tex and the Sustainable Leather Foundation (SLF). This group of organisations has formed a multi-stakeholder platform to act as a hub for centralising information

on EUDR and leather traceability. The core group has been working to agree on “the essential requirements for leather traceability and the means of verification” for tracing leather back to its origin. They are developing a common standard for traceability requirements for the sector on which all certification and audit bodies will be aligned. This will mean mutual recognition of traceability assessments without the need for repeat inspections and related additional costs, but without impairing competition in the certification market. Agreement on essential traceability requirements will be submitted before the end of this year to the fast-track adoption procedure offered by CEN, the European Committee for Standardisation. This could make EUDR more manageable.

But COTANCE and its partners remain hopeful of being able to extricate the leather industry from EUDR’s clutches sooner or later. Article 34 of EUDR foresees a formal European Commission review of the regulation in 2025, including a public consultation. One of the reasons the industry’s representative bodies set up the September discussion was to garner support for this new push to put across forcefully and clearly the arguments for lifting leather out of the deforestation regulations. Their commitment to taking part in this, and to encouraging companies and individuals with an interest in leather to contribute to the public consultation, is

Deforested land in Paraguay. But even if a company sources from Poland, hides will still be subject to EUDR.

Credit: Matias Lynch/Shutterstock

strong. This is in spite of the possibility that the review could go the other way. It could also bring about an expansion of EUDR to include material not under scrutiny at the moment, such as leather from sheep, goat and pigs. Wool, cotton and other materials that have not had to suffer the EUDR ordeal that bovine leather suppliers are facing, could also find themselves affected. More importantly, finished products such as shoes, bags or clothing could also come into EUDR’s scope.

Academic view

An important element of the industry’s effort to bring about a positive outcome from this review is a new academic study of the impact of leather on deforestation and, conversely, of the likely impact on the leather industry in Europe of being subject to EUDR.

UNIC and COTANCE commissioned six academics from the Sant’Anna School of Advanced Studies in Pisa to compile the study. The resulting research paper, ‘Socio-economic and environmental analysis of the effects of Regulation 2023/1115/EU on the European leather sector’, is now available. A search for the school’s name on leatherbiz.com will quickly bring up a link to the full document. “The European Commission did not carry out an impact study before the regulation was adopted by the European Parliament and by the 27 EU member states,” says UNIC vicedirector, Luca Boltri. “This is the study the Commission should have done before imposing EUDR on us.”

A member of the research team, Professor Fabio Iraldo, took part in the Milan seminar and presented the key findings of the study. The team spent six months poring over peerreviewed academic papers covering the subject of deforestation. From this exercise, Professor Iraldo draws a clear conclusion: “No study connects deforestation directly to the leather industry. Meat is the primary output of cattleraising in deforested areas. There is absolutely no robust data that can show a dependency between cattle-raising and the demand for hides. There is no cattle-raising taking place anywhere in the world to generate hides.”

Shock scenario

As mentioned, authors of the study also analysed the socioeconomic impact of EUDR compliance on the leather industry in Europe. One harsh highlight from this is that EUDR could, in their opinion, lead to a price increase for finished leather. Material from the main EU leather-producing countries could go up by between 6% and 10% to compensate for the cost of implementing the required traceability measures.

This is likely to have a severe economic impact on the European cattle and hide supply chain. Professor Iraldo describes this a possible “supply-chain shock scenario”. Higher costs for leather manufacturers are already an issue in the current market situation, but that is not all. Extra-EU meat packers, for whom hides’ contribution to their coffers is so low compared to meat (which in the EU is a protected market), may not want to set up a costly cattle traceability system just for hides. These hides will be lost for European tanners. Tanners will be on their own, the professor warns. It could leave some unable to carry out the work the sector has been doing for millennia, forcing some businesses to close and people working across the supply chain to lose their jobs.The study suggests that, if such a shock did occur, a higher number of European hides would have to find their way to tanners in other parts of

the world, but many will go to waste. Hides will continue to accrue, of course, because farmers will continue to raise cattle and send them to slaughter to supply food companies who have no need of or interest in hides. Disposing of these hides and the knock-on effect of an increased use in Europe of synthetic materials to replace leather would create serious environmental challenges, the professor says. A separate article on page 32 explains the startling environmental impact of wasted hides.

That the Commission now accepts that there should be an impact assessment as part of its first review of EUDR is a source of encouragement, but Professor Iraldo insists that imposing the regulation on companies without first carrying out an impact assessment was a surprise. Previous regulations have focused on taking action against companies for poor practice, he explains. EUDR seeks, instead, to change the way companies manage their upstream supply chains. “I have been covering the work of the European Commission since the 1990s,” he says, “and I have never seen a change of approach like the one we have witnessed in the last three years. It wasn’t, as some have said, a rush to introduce policies before the 2024 elections to the European Parliament. This is about something more profound. It’s about developing top-down policies to change the way companies manage their businesses.”

Gustavo González-Quijano confirms that the Sant’Anna School study will feed into the review. Current COTANCE president and Valencia-based leather producer Manuel Ríos is greatly encouraged by the study. He says it could be a gamechanger. Games are sometimes won in added time.

The headquarters of the European Commission in Brussels. Italian academic Professor Fabio Iraldo says EUDR represents “a profound change” in the way the Commission is creating its policies. Credit: The European Commission

A proven path back to nature:

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New York-based accessories and footwear group Tapestry has an extensive programme in place to build a business case for circularity while celebrating and enhancing the sustainability of leather.

A careful path forward

The parent company of Coach, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman, Tapestry, has made it clear that it views leather as an important part of its business strategy. When it published its 2023-2024 results, it explained that it intends to grow the leathergoods category at Coach and “strengthen core handbag foundation” at Kate Spade. Meanwhile, at Stuart Weitzman, leather has always been a fundamental component of its high-end women’s footwear collections and this brand, too, is now expanding into handbags, as well as footwear for men.

For a number of years now, the group’s annual consumption of leather has been in excess of 100 million square-feet. Whether its attempts to acquire rival group Capri Holdings succeed or not, it is planning to take increase its leather sourcing substantially in the near future. Tapestry is plotting its path towards this increased investment in leather carefully. A detailed plan is in place to help it integrate the positive elements of leather’s story (the material’s circularity, longevity, renewability, versatility and beauty) into the way it presents its brands and collections to consumers. At the same time, the group is using its influence and working hard to make the leather value chain even more sustainable.

It aims, for example, to have traceability of 95% of its materials by next year. It wants to source a proportion of hides from farms using regenerative agricultural practices and it is committed to helping its suppliers of leather make better use of the waste that accrues from their operations. This is part of a broader focus on repair-and-recycle initiatives, all of which aim to enable companies that manufacture leather or leather products to make the maximum possible use of the material the industry processes. It had also set itself the goal of sourcing, by 2025, 97% of its leather from gold- or silverrated Leather Working Group tanneries, but it achieved this ahead of schedule in 2023. Together, these ideas can help cement leather’s status as an ideal example of a material for the circular economy.

Baseline year

The group’s vice-president for sustainability, Logan Duran, gave a complete overview of these initiatives at Lineapelle in Milan in September 2024. A wide range of sustainability initiatives were already under way at Tapestry before this, but he marks 2021 as an important point in the road for the group. This was when it committed to making the targets it was setting itself science-based. Using 2021 as a baseline year, it has committed to reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 64% for scopes one and two, which is to say emissions from its own facilities and from the energy those facilities consume, by

2030. The commitment also includes a 42% reduction of ‘nonFLAG’ scope-three emissions, again by 2030. FLAG stands for forestry, land and agriculture. Tapestry also has a separate target of reducing FLAG scope-three emissions by 30% by 2030, and an overall target of achieving net-zero greenhouse gas emissions across the value chain by 2050.

“We have seen some great progress already,” Mr Duran says. “We have achieved a 57% reduction for scopes one and two, helped by an adoption of around 80% of renewable energy in our stores, offices and fulfilment centres. Overall, our emissions are down since 2021, but over that time, our revenue has increased. We want to drive reductions in scope three and we want to do that partly through material innovation. But we will not compromise on the quality of our products. There is no sense making ugly products that no one is going to buy.”

He believes leather from regenerative agriculture practices will be part of this innovation, but points to other examples too. Kate Spade, for instance, has products that use recycled nylon and polyester fibres. He is also very supportive of work that Coachtopia, a new sub-brand that Coach launched in 2023, has done so far. “Coachtopia had circularity built in from the start,” he says.

Keep products out of landfill

Before that, in the summer of 2021, Tapestry had already introduced Coach (Re)Loved. It set up an exchange platform in its retail stores inviting customers who no longer wanted to use Coach bags they had bought to hand them over for the company to “reimagine or recycle” the products. In return, customers taking part receive a credit towards a new purchase. Tapestry describes the practice of fixing up preowned bags and selling them to new owners as ‘upcrafting’ and as an important means of keeping accessories it has produced out of landfill.

This has developed four distinct strands. Tapestry presents bags in the (Re)Loved programme as ‘Restored’ if they have undergone a repair at the hands of the in-house craftspeople, or as ‘Upcrafted’ in the case of a reimagining of the original product. In cases of bags that are beyond repair, the in-house team recycles the components into a new product, labelled ‘Remade’. For particularly attractive pre-owned products, it is using the tag ‘Vintage’. Because of the popularity of vintage products among many consumers now, Tapestry team members have begun searching in flea markets and other likely locations to source and preserve products for this category. In-house craftspeople repaired 63,000 products in 2023 and placed 11,000 of them in the (Re)Loved programme.

Years of use

“Leather’s durability lends itself to all of this,” Logan Duran says. “And longevity reduces the annualised environmental impact over the lifetime of a product. Studies we have carried out with a team from Columbia University in New York suggest that we can assume our customers will use a new product for five years on average. If, after those five years, they have the product repaired, they can keep using it for another three years. People create lasting connections with products made from leather. Even ‘Remade’, when we take a product apart and make it into something new, leans into the intrinsic quality of leather.”

Suppliers’ use of wet blue off-cuts and waste from all stages of the supply chain, including cutting scraps from the factory floor, is providing Tapestry with material it is able to use in its circularity-focused Coachtopia sub-brand. Bags such as the Ergo and the Barrel are available in a material that contains at least 50% recycled leather fibres. An important source of these fibres recycled from leather scraps is Gen Phoenix, a UK-based materials manufacturer in which Tapestry has invested £1 million. “Increasing the use of the material available from each hide is a good way to decarbonise,” Logan Duran says. He

points out that it is difficult to predict what might happen to the market cost of materials in the future, but suggests that if manufacturers everywhere are chasing a share of low-impact materials, these will be at a premium. Getting as close as possible to using the full hide makes perfect sense, he argues.

The founder of specialist consultancy Spin 360, Federico Brugnoli, observes that many of the circularity initiatives that Tapestry has developed so far have already opened up new business models for the group. This shows, Mr Brugnoli insists, that circularity being good for business “is not just theory any more”. In Tapestry’s case, Logan Duran says developing the business case for the (Re)Loved programme coincided with the covid-19 pandemic. Customers were unable to bring products into stores for repair and the team of craftspeople in the specialist workshop the group runs in New Jersey had time to turn their attention to products that had accumulated on the shelves of their storeroom. A small collection of inaugural (Re)Loved products came from that exercise and Tapestry has not looked back since.

World Leather intends to cover Tapestry’s circularity initiatives in greater detail in the course of 2025.

Coach’s Heart bag is made from leather sourced from regenerative agriculture projects.

Credit: Tapestry

A new chapter

The main leather industry bodies for China and Pakistan formally signed a new memorandum of understanding at the 2024 All China Leather Exhibition in Shanghai in September. The chairman of the China Leather Industry Association (CLIA), Li Yuzhong, and his counterpart at the Pakistan Tanners’ Association (PTA), Muhammad Mehr Ali, were on hand to formalise the links between the two countries’ leather sectors. “What we want,” Mr Li says of this development, “is to create a better future together.”

What happened in Shanghai was a follow-up to events that took place earlier in 2024. The two governments reached a wider collaboration agreement and, from the outset, leather was one of 13 industries that they highlighted as being of immense interest. As a result the CLIA chairman led a delegation of business leaders to Pakistan in August and business leaders from Pakistan are planning a return visit to China, with meetings in Guangzhou, before the end of the autumn.

Close ties

More broadly, Mr Li says that China’s leather industry wants to enable new opportunities and to construct open, fair platforms for conducting business with international partners. He insists this will help leather manufacturers in China form close ties with partners in countries such as

The Pakistan Tanners’ Association believes a new partnership with the China Leather Industry Association can help it increase exports by almost six times between now and 2030.

Pakistan, constructing “close communities built on mutually beneficial co-operation”. As this language suggests, the CLIA chairman makes it clear that his organisation is being guided in this strategy by China’s Belt and Road Initiative (BRI).

It is almost ten years now since China’s central government first published its goals for BRI. These include strengthening ties with partner countries, as CLIA is doing here, but also to increase China’s access to raw materials and other resources, and to channel excess production capacity in China to other parts of the world. Since then, the initiative has generated criticism as well as plaudits, but Li Yuzhong’s belief remains strong that building lasting links with partners such as the PTA is the best way to address the challenges the leather industry faces today.

A new partnership with the industry in China has sparked predictions of large-scale growth for the leather sector in Pakistan.

Credit: All China Leather Exhibition

“The industry is at a critical stage of change,” the CLIA chairman continues. “We have to meet new market demands. To do this, we have to take a more pragmatic approach and be willing to work with colleagues across the world.” He says CLIA is “full of confidence and anticipation” that developments such as the new memorandum of understanding with Pakistan can help “write a new chapter for the industry”.

A good partner

For his part, Muhammad Mehr Ali is equally confident that PTA will be a good partner. He describes Pakistan as among the places to have engaged most with multi-stakeholder body the Leather Working Group (LWG). “We have 55 LWG-rated tanneries,” he explains, “and 93% of all the finished leather that Pakistan produces is from LWG tanneries.”

In addition, he mentions that 33% of the electricity in use in leather production in Pakistan is from renewable sources, often from solar panels that the leather manufacturers have installed themselves. The country’s tanners are recycling 12% of the solid waste their production operations generate at the moment, but Mr Mehr Ali says a plan is in place to increase this to 20% in 2025. “We are finding ways of converting waste, even things like shaving dust, into eco-friendly products now,” the PTA chairman says. “And the government of Pakistan is supporting these initiatives often with matching grants or funding initiatives that we call green loans.”

Another factor in Pakistan’s favour, he explains, is the presence there of four universities that offer degree courses in leather technology and production.

According to Muhammad Mehr Ali, there are only 13 universities across the entire world offering these courses now.

His assessment is that Pakistan can gain from the new memorandum of understanding with China economically and environmentally. He says more than 70 manufacturers in China are considering moving some of their production to Pakistan, attracted by the knowledge and expertise of leather manufacturers there and by incentives that the government in Islamabad is promising. These include paying back 30% of any investment Chinese companies make in the partner country.

“We will benefit because the leather industry in Pakistan will make progress in sustainability, traceability and

innovation,” the PTA chairman adds. “We will also benefit economically. The annual value of our leather exports is $837 million at the moment. We are aiming to take this to $5 billion by 2030, which is almost six times more.”

Guest opinion

Pakistan’s consul general in Shanghai, Shazhad Ahmad Khan, a guest at the ceremony at ACLE, says a strong partnership between the leather industries of the two countries is important. He explains: “The leather sector is one of Pakistan’s topmost export-focused industries and we have a long history of collaboration with China. I congratulate the two industry associations for opening up this new avenue and I hope it will take

us a long way.”

Li Yuzhong says China’s interest in international collaboration stretches beyond Pakistan, with investments in Africa, North America and South America, as well as in other parts of Asia. “We have in place the organisation we need to put our central vision into practice,” he says. “We want this to include technology transfers and a genuine east-west knowledge share. We have launched training workshops in Ethiopia and now we will bring this cooperation to Pakistan too.”

He says China is willing to extend “this invitation” to all international players. He insists that the industry worldwide “shares the same vision, the same dream”.

The new memorandum of understanding paves the way for more than 70 Chinese leathersector companies to invest in Pakistan. Credit: WTP

Muhammad Mehr Ali says 93% of all the finished leather Pakistan produces comes from LWG-rated tanneries. Credit: Muhammad Shafi Tanneries

Beast to Beauty

Michael Jordan has been named as the owner of the first one-off coach-built Battista from Automobili Pininfarina – but does he know he is sitting on Olivenleder?

Wolverine Worldwide ran its own tannery in Michigan for 100 years before closing it in 2009.

CREDIT: WOLVERINE WORLDWIDE

The ultimate green machine

When Olivenleader’s head of sales, Thomas Lamparter, read the news that the owner of the Battista Targamerica, the first one-off coach-built model from Italian carmaker Automobili Pininfarina, had been revealed as US basketballer Michael Jordan, it instantly took him back to his youth. “He was one of my idols, his dunks legendary and probably still unmatched today,” he says. “Just to be sure, I quickly checked with Automobili Pininfarina to confirm: yes, it’s Olivenleder that ‘His Airness’ is now sitting on. From that moment on, I went through the day with a satisfied grin, feeling like I could dunk myself.”

Pininfarina is an Italian car design firm and coachbuilder, founded by Battista "Pinin" Farina in 1930 and has since been run by his son and grandsons, although Indian multinational Mahindra Group acquired 76% stake for €168 million in 2005, and its headquarters are now in Germany. While automotive remains an important sector –building cars for customers including Ferrari, Alfa Romeo and Maserati – Automobili Pininfarina also designs high-speed trains, buses, yachts and private jets and consults on interior design, architecture and graphic design.

When Pininfarina presented the Battista Targamerica for the first time at the USbased Monterey Car Week this summer, the identity of the owner was unknown. However, a social media post in October revealed “dear friend” Michael Jordan had placed the order at the car show in 2023. The renowned car collector and NBA star is the first billionaire sporting personality, earning a share of the profit from each Nike Jordan shoe since their launch in the 1980s. A renowned car collector, Mr Jordan already owned a Pininfarina Battista, but wanted to add a new level of personalisation to his next car, rumoured to be worth around $2.5 million.

Seminal moment

Hand-built by the atelier’s artisans in Cambiano, Italy, the car’s body was reengineering to suit the roofless profile and was inspired by one of the most famous one-off cars designed by Pininfarina – the 1986 Ferrari Testarossa Spider, created for Gianni Agnelli to mark his 20 years as chairman of Fiat. The exterior is delivered in a silver gloss, detailed with blue accents along the bodyside and aero wings in front of the rear wheels.

Battista Targamerica shares the crown as Italy’s fastest road-legal car with the Automobili Pininfarina Battista. It can accelerate from 0-100 km/h in less than two seconds – faster than a Formula 1 car – and has a top speed of more than 300km/h. No more than 150 examples of Battista will be individually hand-crafted at the workshop in Cambiano.

The world’s first coach-built electric hypercar was a star attraction at The Quail, a motorsport gathering during Monterey Car Week in August.

CREDITS: PININFARINA

The ultimate green machine

Sale stalled

A rare 1958 Ferrari Coupé was all set to be sold at a Christie’s Paris auction this November. With its links to actress Angelina Jolie, it was initially estimated to sell for between €600,000 and €800,000, but it is understood that the vehicle was removed from the auction pending an investigation into its legal ownership, with plans for inclusion in a future sale.

One of only 353 models produced, the 250 GT PF Pininfarina is notable not just for its rarity but also for its luxurious red leather interior. The striking upholstery, complemented by gloss black accents, creates a visually captivating contrast that enhances the car’s sleek design. The craftsmanship of the interior is further highlighted by classic black-and-white dials and a wooden steering wheel, evoking the elegance of the era's automotive design. With an odometer reading of just 6,424 miles, the car is in excellent preserved condition.

The Ferrari 250 GT is powered by a 3.0-litre V12 engine that delivers 217 bhp and was capable of reaching a top speed of 143 mph at the time of its release. This particular model has also been showcased at the prestigious Concours d’Élégance in Antibes, where its proportions and design attracted considerable attention.

Paolo Dellachà, CEO at Automobili Pininfarina, said: “This is a seminal moment, delivering our first coach-built one-off vehicle to a client. Battista Targamerica, like no other vehicle before, demonstrates the infinite possibilities our highly skilled team can design and engineer. Our world-class artisans have delivered something truly special – the first electric open top hypercar designed specifically to a very exacting client’s own specification.”

Olivenleder

Automobili Pininfarina has been working with Olivenleder for many years; the plant-based tanning agent adds sustainability credentials to some of the world’s most soughtafter vehicles. It is made from a vegetable concentrate based on an olive leaf extract. Traditionally, Mediterranean farmers have burnt the leaves after harvesting the olives, but Olivenleder provides them with an extra income source. The company is keen to point out it does not see traditional tanning methods as worse – simply that the Olivenleder produces a product of comparable quality with the added benefits of being made from a previously wasted material. The product is not “less harmful” it says, but is 100% biobased and circular. In February, Italy-based leather chemicals group Silvateam bought a majority stake in Wet-Green, developer of the patented Olivenleder technology. Silvateam said the new alliance would be “a new North Star” for sustainable innovation in the leather industry. “This partnership sends a clear signal to the industry: the future lies in sustainable, plant-based solutions,” it commented.

For the Battista Targamerica, Michael Jordan chose supple tan leather, with a black leather steering wheel and dashboard. The headrests are bespoke, featuring an embossed Automobili Pininfarina ‘F’ logo, alongside unique décor and design details. A bespoke tailored luggage set has also been made, finished in the same tan leather as the upholstery and embossed with a Battista Targamerica silhouette – a reflection of Mr Jordan’s ‘jetset’ lifestyle and proving how important leather is in imparting luxury at the highest specifications. Does he also know about the Olivenleder process? This part is unclear, but as Mr Lamparter says, “Even if he may not quite know what he’s sitting on… well, it's enough that I know.”

CREDITS: CHRISTIE’S

CREDIT: PININFARINA

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