Sportstextiles Issue One 2025

30th YEAR

Sportstextiles at 30

David Parkes: parting thoughts

Higg MSI update on natural fibres

Editor Stephen Tierney

Deputy editor

Clare Grainger

Consultant technical editor

Sophie Bramel

Consultant editor

David Buirski

Publisher

Simon Yarwood

Design

Tim Button

Subscriptions manager

John Collins

Administration

Lisa Fabian­Smith

Editorial enquiries

stephen@worldtrades.co.uk

22 Footwear technology: Natural steps

Rubber specialist Yulex has its eye on the footwear sector, saying non­fossil raw materials are of interest to more and more brands.

26 Sustainability: Growing consensus

Outdated data on cotton skewed the Higg Materials Sustainability Index for years. Industry bodies have worked with Cascale, the company behind the index, to make important information improvements.

31 Dialogue: David Parkes, Concept III

Famous in the outdoor industry as the guiding hand behind many innovative performance fabrics, David Parkes reflects here on the evolution of the industry as he prepares to take a step back.

IFC Essential Reading

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World Trades Publishing 2025

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Global news

UK The UK Fashion and Textiles Association has secured a six­year extension to the Climate Change Levy (CCL) rebate scheme for the textile industry to March 2033. The Climate Change Levy was introduced as an energy tax payable by all business. However, some sectors were offered a rebate return for agreeing to specific energy reduction targets. For the textile industry only the wet processing sector along with spinning, weaving and knitting are eligible for the discount.

Iceland Vollebak has produced a very limited­edition jacket insulated with Icelandic eiderdown, just four tonnes of which is produced per year. The down comes from Hraun, home of 3,500 nesting eider ducks. When the eggs are close to hatching, the eider farmers gently take some of the eiderdown and replace it with dry hay. Once the bird and their young leave the nest, the farmers collect the rest of the eiderdown. It takes 65 man hours and 66 nesting ducks to generate a kilo of eiderdown.

Trinidad and Tobago Eight governments have launched a six­year, $45­million initiative aimed at reshaping the supply chains of their fashion and construction sectors as part of the Global Environment Facility (GEF)­funded Integrated Programme on Eliminating Hazardous Chemicals from Supply Chains. Cambodia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, India, Mongolia, Pakistan, Peru, and Trinidad and Tobago will work together to promote regenerative design, the replacement of non­renewable materials, resource­efficient production, responsible purchasing behaviour and improved post­use collection. The initiative also leverages an additional $295 million.

Finland Sports group Puma has signed a letter of intent to secure access to substantial volumes of wood­based renewable fibres from Woodspin. Finland­based fibre developer Spinnova set up Woodspin as a joint­venture with Brazilian paper and pulp group Suzano in 2021. “Spinnova’s innovative fibre technology represents a new gateway into the world of manmade cellulosic fibre production,” said Puma’s director for apparel innovation, Howard Williams.

France The organisation created to promote European­grown cotton held an event in the French capital, after a similar meeting held in Milan, to present the EU Cotton Alliance to local fashion industry professionals. Founded in 2019, the organisation seeks to encourage the uptake by European brands of cotton from Greece and Spain. European­grown cotton is mostly exported, some 75% of the 360,000 tonnes. It is then brought back to Europe in the form of finished garments and home linens.

Germany Puma has continued its push into the US with the opening of a second North American flagship store, this time in Las Vegas. The 25,000­square­foot store includes an F1 racing simulator, an arcade and a customisation studio where customers can personalise clothing and footwear using patchwork, embroidery, printing, LED printing on footwear, and other creative mediums. In 2019, it opened its first US flagship in New York. In 2021, the German brand set up a US headquarters in Somerville.

Egypt Global cotton consumption is expected to decline in the 2024/25 season, according to the International Cotton Advisory Board (ICAC), and production will trail consumption slightly, which could make prices fall. In 2023/24, global consumption increased by 5.7% and Brazil surpassed the US as the world’s top exporter for the first time. Specialty cotton now accounts for about 31% of global production, identity programmes for 29%, and long­ and extra­long staple cotton increased by 46%, mostly in Egypt, China, the USA, and India.

China Los Angeles­based textile tech company Ambercycle has signed a partnership with Benma to develop Cycora staple fibre. The Hangzhou­based company produces a so­called “low carbon” polyester and has an annual production capacity of 180,000 tonnes. It also signed a deal with Chinese textile conglomerate Shenghong Holding Group, and specifically its rPET division, Shenghong Chemical Fiber New Material. The two companies have been developing a filament yarn using the American start­up’s chips.

US Laws voted by the states of California, New York and Colorado banning or restricting the sale of clothing containing PFAS came into effect on January 1. The New York State ‘PFAS in Apparel’ bill was passed in 2022 and bans the sale of products with “intentionally added PFAS in apparel” starting in 2025. A prohibition of PFAS in “outdoor apparel for severe wet conditions” will come into effect on January 1, 2028.

l Exhibition organiser American Events is celebrating the 30th anniversary of the launch of its North West Apparel & Footwear Materials Show in Portland, OR. It won the trust of Nike to set up a vendors’ fair in the city. In 2015, New Balance followed suit and asked American Events to set up a similar gathering in Boston, leading to the launch of the North East Materials Show. The North West Show will take place on February 12 and 13, with the North East Show on February 19 and 20.

Canada Montreal­based Loop Industries, which is developing recycling facilities for PET plastics and polyester textiles, has licensed the technology for the first time to Reed Societe General Group for €10 million. A new company, 90% owned by Reed Circular Economy and 10% by Loop, will identify possible sites in Europe. The funds raised will be in part dedicated to Loop Industries’ project in India with local partner Ester Industries. Construction of a recycling factory in Gujarat province will start this year.

Pakistan The Pakistan Textile Council (PTC) has signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with Better Cotton to promote sustainable cotton production. The partnership will organise workshops and training programmes for various stakeholders, including farmers, traders, exporters, brands, trade officials and public sector representatives, to ensure compliance with national and international trade regulations. According to the Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association (PCGA), total cotton arrivals in Pakistan as of December 31 were 5,452,250 bales, down from 8,171,082 bales the previous year, a decline of 33%.

India Revalyu, a company formerly known as perPETual, is investing $100 million in its PET recycling capacity in Nashik. The factory has two plants: one processesing 40 tonnes per day, and a new one with a 160 tonnes per day production capacity. Construction has begun on a third recycling facility that will add another 120 tonnes per day of PET chips and polymer in late 2025. Revalyu Resourceshas also broken ground on a new factory in Statesboro, Georgia, US.

Australia Cotton Australia has reported damage to cotton crops from spray drift. Spray drift happens when products that farmers spray to protect a particular crop drift and affect other crops. Australia has 1,500 cotton growers. Cotton Australia said there had been “several severe incidents” in New South Wales following heavy rains.

New Zealand New Zealand Merino Company has announced measures to tighten up on­farm commitment to animal welfare following allegations of cruelty at sheep farms. The company initiated “a rapid response assessment” of all farms to make sure they are upholding animal welfare protocols and will commission an independent industry working group to develop recommendations. “We categorically reject the claim that animal abuse is in any way a typical occurrence within the ZQ programme,” the company said.

Vietnam Spain­based recycled cotton supplier Recover is opening a manufacturing facility in Vietnam, specialising in RMix, its solution for cotton­polyester blends. Spanning nearly 14,000m2, the factory in Dong Nai province is close to both textile waste sorting and manufacturing operations and will initially operate with two recycling lines, providing an annual production capacity of 10,000 MT. Recover opened its second manufacturing facility, in Bangladesh, in 2022.

Cambodia The Cambodia Confederation of Investors Association (CCIA) has said footwear exports could increase between 20% and 30% in 2025. The country earned about $1.3 billion from shoe exports during the first 10 months of 2024. Ly Khun Thai, chairman of the CCIA, said several factories have secured large orders from brands.

People

Former H&M chief chooses Circulose

Cellulosic textile waste specialist Circulose has announced that Helena Helmersson, the former chief executive of fashion group H&M, will be the new chair of its board of directors.

At the same time, it announced Jonatan Janmark as its new chief executive. He was formerly a partner at consultancy group McKinsey and Company.

Both of the company’s new leaders took up their roles on December 1.

Swedish investment firm Altor acquired the remaining assets of textiles recycling innovator Renewcell last June and relaunched the company under the new name Circulose.

Circulose was the name Renewcell used for the material it made from recycling cellulosic textile waste, including used cotton clothes and production scraps. Renewcell filed for bankruptcy in February 2024.

Chief executive of NFW steps down

Just days after missing out on an award of £1 million from The Earthshot Prize, material innovation company NFW confirmed that its founder, Dr Luke Haverhals, had stepped down as chief executive.

Luke Haverhals founded NFW as Natural Fiber Welding in 2015 with the aim of using natural-based materials to replace fossil-based plastics in as many applications as possible, including clothing and footwear.

The company was named as a finalist in the 2024 edition of The Earthshot Prize. Led by the heir to the throne of the United Kingdom, Prince William, The Earthshot Prize will run for the whole of this decade, awarding each year funding of £1 million to winners in each of five categories.

At the 2024 final in Cape Town on November 6, NFW narrowly missed out on the prize in a category called ‘Build A Waste-Free World’.

In the days that followed, local radio in Peoria, Illinois, where NFW has its headquarters, reported that Dr Haverhals had stepped down as chief executive “for personal reasons”. He remains on the board.

Reports also said that NFW was putting a significant number of employees on furlough (temporarily suspending their paid employment). A spokesperson said NFW had been unable to close new funding that it had been working to secure for months.

Former company president, Steve Zika, has confirmed on LinkedIn that he has taken over as chief executive. He said: “Our team will do everything we can to secure additional funding.”

Ferre joins TE board

Alfredo Ferre, chief product officer of recycled cotton provider Recover, has joined the Textile Exchange board. He has more than 30 years of experience in the textile industry and will work to accelerate the adoption of preferred materials. Other board members include representatives from Target, Patagonia, Columbia and Lenzing.

Gröber heads to new pastures

After 28 years at fairs organiser Messe München, Tobias Gröber, head of ISPO and OutDoor, is leaving the company at the end of April to take up a new challenge. Exhibition director Lena Haushofer will take over responsibility for ISPO, supported by Christoph Rapp (head of sales and marketing) and Saskia Rettenbacher (head of event management).

Filson hires from Bauer

Seattle­based outdoor clothing brand Filson Outfitters has appointed Tim Bantle from Eddie Bauer as president. His career also includes stints at VF Canada, The North Face and Black Diamond. Founded 128 years ago, Filson continues to manufacture some of its products in the US.

Thermore eyes consumer market

Developer of synthetic insulation materials Thermore has appointed Laura Beachy as its vice­president for marketing and communications. She joins the Milan­based company from Hyla Strategies, a marketing firm based in New York. Thermore said the appointment will boost the company’s planned expansion into the consumer market.

Chouinard honours Jimmy Carter

Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard has issued a statement on the death of former US president Jimmy Carter, who died on December 29 age 100. He said Mr Carter was so far ahead of his time we are only now getting around to finish (or resume) much of what he started that his successors unravelled. Overall, his administration protected more land and water than any since Theodore Roosevelt’s. Mr Chouinard said: “He had both the courage to look reality in the face and the foresight to see a path toward a better future.”

CREDIT: KRISTIAN POHL

Inov8’s Edy promises fresh energy

Inov8 founder Wayne Edy has taken the role of CEO of the UK outdoor brand, after former Asda director Mike Snell stepped down.

Mr Edy founded the brand in 2003. It was bought by Japan’s Descente in 2015; Mr Edy bought it back 2021.

He said: “2024 was a transformative year. We’ve redefined the design and fit of our footwear to work naturally with the foot, enhancing strength and movement. Alongside this, we’ve rebranded. The response has been extremely positive and sets us up for growth in 2025."

Michael Price will also return as product and marketing director after six previous years at Inov8 (2016-22). He played a pivotal role in leading the brand through the challenges of the pandemic and has been working as a business and marketing consultant for the past two years.

Mr Price, formerly of Asics and Reebok, said: “Our focus is strengthening the brand, expanding our reach and building growth across wholesale, distributors and D2C [direct to consumer].”

The company’s headquarters are in Staveley, in the English Lake District. It also has a major operation base in County Durham, where its lead warehouse is.

Mr Edy added: “I’m excited for Michael’s return. Together, we’ll bring fresh energy and innovation to the market.”

Ortovox boss takes on wider European role

The European Outdoor Group (EOG) has appointed Christian Schneidermeier as its new director.

Mr Schneidermeier left his role as CEO of German brand Ortovox in November and will join the EOG in March this year, leading the association’s executive team and reporting to the EOG board.

The EOG has a membership of over 140 brands, retailers, technology brands, national associations and other organisations in the value chain. The association represents and promotes the interests of the outdoor sector, underpinned by a commitment to collaboration on major pre-competitive issues that face all businesses.

The EOG’s programme is underpinned by three pillars: doing business right, preserving the outdoors and getting people active outdoors. On behalf of its members and the wider industry, the association leads on, or contributes to, a range of major projects in areas such as CSR and sustainability, market insights, events and public affairs. The work is undertaken by a core executive team, and in cooperation with external partners and stakeholders.

Christian Schneidermeier has been working in the outdoor and sporting goods industry for 25 years. Since November 2020, he has been deputy chair of the outdoor segment and member of the board of directors of the German Sporting Goods Industry Association. He has also sat on the corporate social responsibility committee of the Chamber of Industry and Commerce for Munich and Upper Bavaria in a voluntary capacity since 2018, and been a member of the CIC General Assembly since 2021.

He said: “As the leader of an EOG member company, I’ve witnessed close at hand how the association has developed and grown, and I fully appreciate the role that it plays in uniting our industry. We should never underestimate the importance of that. The work that the EOG does is now more vital than ever and the organisation can become the collaborative platform that helps the sector achieve profitable business within the planetary boundaries. I am honoured to be joining and leading a great team early next year.”

New Inescop general manager

Spain­based footwear research and testing organisation Inescop has a new general manager, Dr Eduardo Calabuig. Dr Calabuig specialised in research on CAD/CAM technology until 2018, when he moved to lead the organisation’s advanced manufacturing division. He said he would make it a priority to create value for footwear companies “by transferring knowledge and technologies”.

Change of CEO at BFC

The British Fashion Council has announced Laura Weir as its new chief executive. Ms Weir has been a member of the its committee since 2016. She is also on the board of fashion retail group Selfridges. She will take up the role of CEO on April 28 and will succeed Caroline Rush, who has held the post for the past 15 years. Ms Weir said she would focus on support for emerging and established designers to “strengthen the pipeline of British creative talent”.

Rudolf revamps management

Textiles chemicals maker Rudolf has appointed Wolfgang Schumann and Dr Wolfgang A Schumann as co­chairs of a newly established board of directors. Former CEO Dr Schumann will focus on developing business in Asia. Marcos Furrer has been appointed as the CEO and will also take on the role of chief marketing officer. He said: “I am convinced we will not only strengthen our international market position but also make our contribution to a sustainable future.”

New Gore sustainability lead

The former head of marketing for textile specialties at chemicals group Archroma, Nuria Estape, is to be the new European lead on sustainability for WL Gore. Brussels­based Ms Estape took a career break in autumn 2023 to complete a professional certificate in sustainability from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. She said this had “energised and inspired” her for her return to work in this new role.

CEO of Intersport steps down

The CEO of sporting goods retail group Intersport, Steve Evers, has left the company. Chairperson Corinne Gensollen said Mr Evers had contributed significantly to Intersport’s “transformation and success”. Its revenues have grown from €11.9 billion in 2019, the year he became chief executive, to €14 billion in 2024.

CREDIT: INOV8

Industry & Innovation

Name change for the magazine

From the start of 2025, the magazine’s new name is Sportstextiles. It carries forward WSA’s 30 years of publishing news and in-depth articles about innovative, responsible materials for sports and outdoor clothing, footwear and equipment.

We will continue to have the same sections: hard-hitting lead features, sustainability, footwear technology, Newcomers to highlight a new product or idea, Rise to the Challenge to celebrate strong supply chain partnerships, and, at the close, a thought-provoking dialogue with a leading industry figure.

In this issue, we have an additional feature exploring in detail WSA’s 30-year history.

As well as being available online, printed copies of each issue will go to subscribers, as they have done for decades. Printed copies will also be available for distribution at key industry exhibitions around the world throughout the year.

For example, visitors to the February editions of the North West Materials Show in Portland, and the North East Materials Show in Boston will find copies of this issue of Sportstextiles at the events.

We look forward to continuing our coverage of innovative textile developments for many years to come.

Biotech dye specialist prepares to scale

Danish biotech dye maker Octarine Bio has partnered US-based Ginkgo Bioworks, which identifies possible microbial strains. The two companies have announced that a first phase of their research has been finalised and should enable Octarine Bio to begin scaling its production.

Octarine Bio’s low impact PurePalette dyes were featured at London Fashion Week in Patrick McDowell’s show collection.

Octarine Bio’s co-founder and CSO, Nick Milne, commented: “We’re extremely proud to see our sustainable dyes transition out of the lab and into the ‘real world’, where the team at Ginkgo Bioworks played an important role in helping us achieve this significant and exciting milestone by delivering improved production strains ready for scale-up.

“Given the technical success of Phase I, we are eager to continue our partnership with Ginkgo to drive our broad portfolio of colours to commercialisation.”

Presented as a drop-in solution to conventional dyes by Nethaji Gallage, at a panel talk at Performance Days, moderated by this magazines technical editor Sophie Bramel, PurePalette dyes are said to enable reduced water and energy as well as significantly lower ecotoxicity, according to a life cycle analysis.

Ganni ups Ambercycle support

Danish brand Ganni has stepped up its commitment to phase out virgin and bottle­to­fibre recycled polyester by 20% through an offtake agreement signed with Los Angeles­based circular textile innovator Ambercycle. The two companies have been working together since 2021. Last autumn, Ganni introduced three references made with Ambercycle’s ‘regenerated polyester’ fibre branded Cycora.

Milliken invests in chitosan

Polartec­owner Milliken & Company has invested in chitosan specialist Tidal Vision. The company, headquartered in Washington, has developed solutions for water treatment, agriculture and textiles. Chitosan is derived from chitin, a natural polymer that forms the exoskeleton of insects, crustaceans and fungi. In textiles, chitosan is used as a sizing agent, dye mordant, antimicrobial finish and as a possible alternative to PFAS/PFOS.

Spotlight on cellulose innovators

Nova Institut has named the six cellulose fibre innovators it has chosen for its annual award, held in March: Sci­Lume Labs, which is developing a biobased nylon fibre, Bylon, from agricultural waste; SA­Dynamics, which is working on cellulose­based aerogel textiles; and Uluu, which is seeking to offer a seaweed­derived alternative to PHA polymers. The other two nominees are developing biobased packaging alternatives.

Nano­metallic coating boosts warmth

LifeLabs, a material science company founded in a Stanford University laboratory, has been awarded the Best Product Award in ISPO’s Fall/Winter Textrends for its AI­CLO System

WarmLife Merino Wool Insulated Fill in the membranes and coatings category. The AI­CLO System is designed to regulate body temperature using two patented technologies. WarmLife is created from 97% recycled and bio content and uses a nano­metallic coating that reflects body heat.

WarmLife and CoolLife, a blend of nylon and polyethylene, were developed over three years by Professor Yi Cui, director of Stanford University’s Advanced Materials Laboratory.

WFSGI: sports brands central to health transformation

The World Federation of Sporting Goods Industries (WFSGI) and the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development have co-produced a policy paper that highlights physical activity as a low-cost, high-return investment, benefiting the environment, fostering a healthier workforce and supporting the development of young people.

Featuring examples from WFSGI members Nike, adidas, Speedo and ASICS, the paper looks at how the sporting goods sector is contributing to fostering active lifestyles through inclusive products, sustainable practices and global outreach.

Recent figures from the World Health Organisation reveal that 31% of adults do not meet the recommended levels of physical activity to maintain good health. That number rises to a 81% of 12-17-year-olds not doing enough physical activity to stay healthy. The WHO has calculated the economic cost of treating health conditions that can be prevented through engaging in a healthier lifestyle with more physical activity will reach at least $300 billion by 2030, around $27 billion annually. WFSGI represents approximately 70% of the global industry by annual turnover.

Oeko­Tex changes rules on organic cotton and PET bottles

The Oeko-Tex Association has updated the test criteria, limit values and requirements for its range of certifications and labels, and which will become binding on April 1.

The Standard 100 certificate will no longer include the mention of “organic” or “GMO not detectable” in articles made of cotton. It said: “This change is implemented to enhance our oversight of certified organic cotton, an area where fraud is prevalent. Our aim is to certify only genuinely trustworthy organic cotton as such.”

There is a separate certification for organic cotton. Other organic materials such as hemp, linen, or wool remain unaffected.

Pre-consumer PET bottles will not be considered a source of recycled material for Standard 100 certificates.

For the ECO Passport, certificate owners now have the chance to show if their chemical products are biodegradable, which will be shown on the certificate. ECO Passport certified chemicals that are used as surfactants, softeners and/or complexing agents must provide this proof of biodegradability, either by one of the Oeko-Tex institutes or by a verified third party. Already certified products from the named applications have a one-year transition-period to adapt.

Mixed results from the Renewable Carbon Textile Project

Fashion for Good has published the key findings from its Renewable Carbon Textile Project, which it set up to test the technical feasibility of PHA polymer and composite resins to make mono and multifilament fibres.

With funding from Laudes Foundation and backing from brands Bestseller, Norrona, PVH and the fabrics division of WL Gore & Associates, it wanted to see whether renewable carbon sources (such as biomass and CCU-based polymers) could serve as an alternative to polyester.

PHA (Polyhydroxyalkanoates) polymers produced through a bacterial fermentation process using waste feedstocks could offer a renewable solution to replace petrochemical materials but require further development to produce fibres. PHA polymers can biodegrade in the marine environment and compost environments.

The project focused on lab-scale trials using the PHA polymer pellets produced by Danimer Scientific, IBANNS, Fullcycle Bioplastics, Paques Biomaterials and Aircarbon.

The results demonstrated while it was possible to make monofilament fibres using a 100% PHA polymer, blending with other biopolymers was necessary to improve the performance. NIRI was able to produce multifilament yarns using some of the innovators’ resins but further technology developments will be necessary to improve the melt drawability (the ability of a polymer to be made into a filament) and avoid breakages.

The partners concluded that blends with other biopolymers might improve the heat sensitivity and the tackiness of the fibres, ultimately improving spinnability; end-of-use testing will needed to assess whether the final resins (likely a blend of biopolymers) are marine degradable and home compostable.

Biobased nylon from oils

US­based polyamide producer Ascend has launched production of a new series of chemicals, including nylon 6.6 made from used cooking oils. These add to the company’s Bioserve platform. The certification ensures a transparent and deforestation­free supply chain while also covering land management and biodiversity.

Project to optimise textile waste end­uses

Infinited Fiber has joined a new EU­funded research project called Tex­Insect that seeks to investigate the potential of a technology developed by fellow Scandinavian innovator Norbite. This Swedish start­up has found that the larvae of Galleria mellonella are able to “digest and transform synthetic polymers into valuable products such as proteins and lipids,” it said. Norbite is seeking to build an insect­based biorefinery.

Nylon 6 biorecycling breakthrough

Samsara Eco has added nylon 6 to its library of plastic­eating enzymes. The Canberra­based textile tech start­up has previously developed biorecycling platforms for nylon 6.6 and polyester. The company, founded in 2021, is targeting the textiles and automotive industries, where it said nylon 6 is prevalent. It will begin trials with strategic partners in mid­2025 when its research & development campus in Jerrabomberra, New South Wales, is set to open.

Biotech rubber in the works

A French start­up has secured €3.3 million to develop a fermentation­based production process for rubber. BaCta has achieved proof of concept, it said. “Natural rubber represents a $40 billion market and yet, half of the world’s supply relies on petrochemicals, and the other half on Hevea rubber trees, responsible for massive deforestation. The need for a sustainable, resilient alternative has never been more urgent,” stated Mathieu Nohet, baCta CEO

Magnesium forms anti­odour solution

Specialty minerals company ICL has introduced TextiMag, an anti­odour solution. It is, the company says, the first time an odour­reducing textile finish has been made from magnesium, a compound that is also used in natural deodorants. The mineral is harvested in the Dead Sea. ICL is seeking Bluesign certification.

Backtrack

21 January 2025

Support for California from New Balance Alliance welcomes Archroma

20 January 2025

Li Ning takes over as official supplier for the Chinese Olympics

17 January 2025

Speed­climb specialist joins Norrøna team Loop Industries reorganises planned recycling facilities

16 January 2025

Thirty years of the Materials Show Saucony revisits 80s trainer

15 January 2025

Confidence at Amer Sports that 2024 revenue will pass $5 billion

Pole vault project complete, ASTM announces

New low­impact low­compression activewear

Lenzing expands lyocell fill portfolio

14 January 2025

New 3D printing tie­up aims to fill BASF gap in North America

Christmas boost, but JD Sports remains cautious

Adidas targets new consumers with F1 partnership

13 January 2025

Lulumon holiday season better than expected

10 January 2025

March date for Australian Cotton open day

Official sustainability recognition for Teijin Frontier in China

Primark expands sports and athleisure offering

Koché x Kappa connection

09 January 2025

Research reinforces Rheon bra benefit claims

YKK cements net­zero target Consolidation in used textile processing

08 January 2025

Partnership expansion for On and Loewe

Apparel and footwear collection celebrates Hyrox­Puma partnership

Limitations on space make it impossible for us to run more than a carefully selected sample of industry news in Sportstextiles magazine. However, we publish hundreds more stories on www.sportstextiles.com, one of the most comprehensive archives of news anywhere on the web for textiles, apparel, footwear and equipment for sports and outdoor. Below are just some of the headlines that have appeared on the site in recent weeks.

Ambercycle expands network in China

Hyosung outlines textiles trends for autumn­winter 26/27

07 January 2025

Helsinki prepares for bio­based clothing conference

Inditex brand puts Q­Cycle into compression garments

CLO Virtual Fashion opens Vietnam base

06 January 2025

Nordic Innovation funds wool project

03 January 2025

Cotton imports down in China

Shoe celebrates Zion Williamson’s strength and speed

The Or Foundation provides funds for fire aftermath

New year, new moves at H&M

02 January 2025

Critical polyamide appointment at Domo Chemicals

Nanotech aluminium at Stone Island

Tennis star welcomes ASICS support through ‘ups and downs’

FENC recognised in Dow Jones Sustainability Indices

19 December 2024

Zurich opening takes Norrøna to 39 stores

18 December 2024

A golfing first for Spiber

Four trends for AW26­27 from Unitex and Louisa Smith

Rossignol makes urban outdoor move

ZDHC publishes first guidelines for recycled polyester

17 December 2024

Baseball brand brings out first shoe collection

TITAS welcomes 35,000 visitors

16 December 2024

Double trail event sponsorship in China for 3M

Rental platform rebrands as O’rentees

Smartwool appoints agents for Benelux

Expansion plan for nylon additive at Clariant site in China

13 December 2024

Ocean pollution promise from Woolmark

Minus­30 at launch of new Greenland football kit

Kathmandu explores boundarypushing technologies

12 December 2024

New Puma studio promises ‘a different kind of creativity’

Award for Aclima wool garment

Ekosport acquisition to expand its digital presence

Viking views DPP as opportunity for customer dialogue

11 December 2024

Winter sports change for Decathlon

10 December 2024

Rare made­to­measure collaboration

Joint ISPO Award success for Mammut and Polartec

New trend forecast for legwear from Lycra

Textile Exchange calls for phasing out of virgin synthetics

09 December 2024

AI helps designers see things in a new way, Puma says

Merino­Coolmax combination in new trail running socks

Skiwear lasts longer with social enterprise partnership

Clariant now PFAS­free

WSA turns 30 and becomes Sportstextiles

The launch of WSA, an abbreviation for World Sports Activewear, took place 30 years ago.

The magazine’s mission was, and very much still is, to focus on the textiles technology that underpins innovation and performance in activewear. But the activewear industry has adapted and now covers a broader apparel spectrum. Celebrating our thirtieth anniversary, we see this as an appropriate time to realign our own international brand, and the magazine title becomes Sportstextiles, matching the name our partner news website, www.sportstextiles.com, that first began reporting industry developments online in 2005.

Kilties and crystals

But to return to the beginning. Two middle­aged ladies decided to exhibit their designs. They chose the PGA Show in Orlando, Florida, the longest running and largest global gathering for the business of golf. It was already a big event in the 1990s, but it could also accommodate start­ups, including the two ladies, in a booth measuring just 1.8 by 0.75 metres, with a simple trestle table.

This was enough to display their niche product. They had designed kilties, the fringed decorative

NEWCOMERS

Consultant editor, David Buirski, has been covering the performance textile industry for more than three decades and textiles in general for much longer. After more than six decades of involvement, he remains enthusiastic, still working, so we asked him to reflect on some of the major changes he has noticed since helping to found WSA 30 years ago, just as the magazine rebrands as Sportstextiles.

leather flaps for golf shoes, hand­decorated with Swarovski crystals. Adding these to her footwear, any woman golfer would be one­up before hitting a ball. She would be two­up if she was wearing a golf glove manufactured by another exhibitor, designed with its special split on the ring finger to allow her diamond rings to flash in the sunlight. Those exhibitors were an eye­opener because

they were competing for attention with giant manufacturers, such as FootJoy and others who were also vying for attention with their latest designs and technology. While I have no idea how successful either the kiltie or glove maker has fared since I saw them many years ago, there is no doubt that recent decades have seen major changes in footwear.

In sporting terms, golf shoes have changed their grip on grass. Out went metal studs and in came flexible, synthetic, screwable studs. Waterproof finishes have become commonplace and more effective, and the materials used in construction have changed with new foams and linings, all designed for more comfort and incorporating materials that are more environmentally friendly. Over 70 years ago, my stylish leather golf brogues had metal spikes and a thin metal sheet between the sole and the footbed to provide waterproofing, and there were no hooters at the golf club to sound a warning when a rain or lightning storm was approaching.

One size doesn’t fit all

Socks, too, have become more sophisticated in terms of fibres and percentages. Their shape has benefited from advances in machinery. In years past, a pair of socks was just that, two matching shapes. Nowadays, they are produced for left and right feet, and women no longer are forced to wear socks produced for men. Percentages of different fibres can be blended to create socks for specific sports. One size no longer fits all. One of my abiding memories was being shown a 100% polypropylene sock compared with a cotton­nylon one. The salesperson filled both with water, emptied them and, hey presto, the polypropylene was dry as a bone. That was at the giant Super Show in Atlanta in February 1996, when building for the upcoming Summer Olympics was delayed by freezing weather and frozen ground. Despite the snow and ice, the Super Show attracted 104,000 visitors.

The ability to change the behaviour of fibres has become more commonplace, too. I was given a shirt designed for outdoor trekking in hot climates but made from 100% nylon. It would normally have been uncomfortable and clammy to wear under normal conditions, let alone in hot weather. I was extolling its virtues of staying dry and comfortable to my publisher while having a drink in a Hong Kong hotel.

To demonstrate, I poured water over the sleeve; the waitress was shocked, thinking she had spilt my drink. Having assured her it was of my own doing, within a couple of minutes the shirt was dry as the finish applied was designed to move moisture away to the next thread of the weave, spreading the original drop until it had completely evaporated. Today, it appears that the properties required by the specifier can be spun into the fibre as it is produced.

Extra performance, but less footprint

Words that are flooding the sports textile and performance landscape, as well as other sectors, are sustainability, recycling, and greenhouse gas

emissions. I am sure there are others that spring to mind. Performance enhancement almost seems secondary now, whereas 30 years ago it was performance that seemed to top the table. Net­zero was not part of the vocabulary when this magazine was launched.

One aspect which is now often considered in our arena is upcycling. But, going back, it was not always the case. In our travels, we came across a start­up company based in Cape Town. Like so many other companies in the sector founded by sport enthusiasts, Sealandgear was the brainchild of two enthusiastic surfers, who loved the outdoors but were concerned about the ‘trash and waste’ generated by others that had entered the ocean. Initially, their focus was on spent sails and lost fishing nets. Today, it now also upcycles the ubiquitous promotional fabric of banners and posters as well.

Instead of all this waste going to landfill, they use it to create a collection of tote bags and other travel goods using the end­of­life sails; because the ‘waste’ was unique, each item produced is equally unique. The company has built strong links with those producing banners on lightweight polyester, designed to survive all­weather conditions, and now enjoying a second life as linings for the bags. Used sails that are shipped back to Cape Town from around the world become the stock for more bags and luggage.

That company has survived, thrived, and become an influencer (a term unheard of 30 years ago) on other like­minded people, including another local company, 30South, that produces sunglasses using 0rCA nylon from recycled fishing nets blended with carbon fibre from Aston Martin car manufacturing. The sunglasses carry a lifetime guarantee with no metallic parts, are non­slip, non­abrasive and hypoallergenic, and, like Sealand’s products, do not require any virgin material.

Look at the lotus

Biomimicry was little heard of in 1995. Looking to adapt aspects of nature today is a matter of serious research. One of the first uses of biomimicry that we came across was Stomatex neoprene, which replicates the physics of the

Adrenaline rush. Sports enthusiasts will go to any lengths to prove their prowess. WSA cover Issue One 2019.

stomata through which plants transpire. It turned a lightweight, ultra­thin, non­porous synthetic rubber into a membrane that is weatherproof and highly breathable. In 2000, Schoeller Textil developed NanoSphere, a water­resistant finish, where its 3D surface imitates the lotus leaf texture, preventing water and stains from adhering to the textile surface.

Plants themselves, too, have now become sources of new fibres. Thirty years ago, you saw a pineapple as food. What you don’t eat today, often gets turned into a fibre. Who thought that the green algae floating on open water, which could make swimming an unpleasant experience, could be harvested and turned into yet another fibre for commercial use, while helping to clear waterways of pollution at the same time? Turning inedible corn into PLA, or polylactic acid, was not part of the fibre landscape 30 years ago when we launched our title. The yarns and fibres palette of the mid­1990s was very limited by the standards of 2025. The ability to incorporate desired characteristics continues to develop.

The body, too, has become the subject of greater analysis. Research has been invested in how the body moves, not just in terms of the foot but also in how it perspires, and how individual muscles behave during sporting activity. Sportswear is now specifically designed for specific activities. Analysis of the gait has led to an ever­increasing range of footwear, some designed for individual athletes, especially those in the elite group of participants. Garments are designed to remove perspiration from specific areas of the body or to compress other parts so that muscle energy is not wasted but focused on enhanced performance. In 1996, DuPont took compression a stage further, improving the performance of the Energywear concept by combining Lycra Power with Coolmax to offer enhanced moisture management. In 1997, Noble Fiber Technologies introduced X­Static, a silver fibre with anti­bacterial, antistatic and conductive properties, able to have a soothing effect by activating blood flow. Phase­change materials from companies such as Outlast Technologies, were another industry innovation in the late 1990s. I confess that I was a poor guinea pig when asked to try a pair of its gloves and have my hands scanned to show temperature changes. For some reason, my left and right hands showed the reverse of what they expected.

A bit more buzz

The world of electronics has also been a source of differentiation in the sports and activewear sector. Intelligent fibres will no doubt continue to develop. In 2000, using technology from Philips, Levi’s launched a smart jacket, designed by Massimo Osti, called ICD+, equipped with a network of electric wiring for connecting an mp3 device, a cell phone, earphones, and a micro­phone, operated with a remote control. In Finland, at about the same time, Reima presented Cyberia, a prototype Arctic survival suit, equipped with several types of sensors (an electro­frequency­meter by

Polar, hydrometer, thermometer) connected to embroidered electrodes. Some years before, I came across long, winter­weight socks that included a small battery that powered warmth down to the toes. It came with a warning that they were not suitable for people with diabetes.

A trip to Norway in 1997 found me at the headquarters of Helly Hansen. ‘One leg is worth seven years’ was the WSA headline that followed the visit. It highlighted the necessity for companies working in the performance textiles world to devote time to testing products outside the laboratory and that the most demanding real­world testing was essential. The company had supplied one of the teams in the Whitbread Round the World Yacht Race and had spent two years developing and testing the clothing system, with innumerable on­the­water trials. Nevertheless, after the sponsored yacht completed the first leg of the race, tweaks were needed. The company reckoned that this one leg was the equivalent of seven years of ordinary sailing.

The company also produces survival suits, which provided me with another memorable image. In testing, the all­in­one suit is placed on a flat surface and pressurised air is pumped into it, to ‘Michelin Man’ proportions, then painted with a soapy solution to see if it blows bubbles or highlights any other life­threatening leaks. It took me back to my childhood and mending the leaky inner tubes of my bicycle tyres.

Clearly, there have been many more milestones and memories gathered along the way. (Why would someone think it sensible to abseil down a building face­forward to the ground, as I saw once at ISPO?) Importantly, sports textiles remain an exciting and dynamic industry to be involved with. Fresh ideas and new research will continue to flow. Entrepreneurial sports enthusiasts will continue to develop new sporting activities, which in turn will require ingenuity on the part of those creating and manufacturing performance textiles.

Sportstextiles will be there to see, listen and report.

By the seat of your pants! Testers are dragged along a set length of tarmac, reporting no holes in the Armalith denim jeans afterwards, just a feeling of “warmth”.

CREDIT: ARMALITH

A source of superfood, biofuels and more, algae is touted by some as no less than the most influential organism of the twenty­ first century. A thriving natural resource, but also a bane when it blooms in excess, the aquatic plant is also being tapped to make biobased dyes and fibres for the textile industry.

Seaweed solutions

Divers, fashion industry veterans and entrepreneurs see in seaweed an untapped resource. An informal term that covers many different species, algae is similarly being harnessed to make a diverse array of chemicals and polymers for applications in apparel. Algaeing and Living Ink are developing dyes and inks, whereas Keel Labs and Phycolabs are making fibres from kelp.

All too aware of the detrimental impact of the apparel industry on the environment, Renana Krebs quit her job as a fashion designer to develop cleaner solutions for the sector, starting with fashion’s primary components. “Fibre and colour are the essence of everything in fashion,” she tells Sportstextiles. Since 2016, she has been working on developing dyes and a cellulosic fibre from algae.

The company’s Algadyes and Algainks are now available in a palette of nearly 20 hues, which she says are “toxic­free colourants and a drop­in solution in conventional machines”. The company releases new shades on a seasonal basis and can also make custom colours for customers. This was the case with Organic Basics, which launched a first commercial range of products using the company’s dyes last year. “Algadyes have the same performance as conventional colourants with regards to washing, rubbing, sweating and UV resistance,” says the co­founder and CEO of Algaeing, who is based in Berlin. They require no binders and few chemicals, and more importantly, they are cost­competitive. “We can produce 150 tonnes per month. If we scale further, prices will go down,” she says. Each colour is delivered from algae at different stages of harvesting. “As it grows, it goes from green to brown to purple,” she says. The colour of the algae thus produces the tint. “Basically we ‘unlock’ algae to form a chemical bond between the colour and the fibre.”

Algaeing has formed a partnership with manmade cellulosic fibre producer Birla Cellulose, based in India, to develop a yarn integrating cellulose from algae. Ms Krebs says that it will be produced already tinted, thus offering a dyeless, algae­based cellulosic fibre.

Supply chain integration

To ensure that any brand seeking to use Algadyes can find a supplier capable of applying it efficiently, Ms Krebs has set up a network of partner dyeing facilities around the world. “When a brand contacts us, there is a good chance that

The first commercial range of products

to feature Algaeing dyes was launched last year by Organic Basics, a Danish brand that is now owned by Delta Galil. CREDIT: ORGANIC BASICS

we already have a partnership with a dyer in its supply chain,” she says. This makes adoption of the algae­based colourants risk­free for brands and should reduce barriers to adoption.

Living Ink, based in Colorado, transforms algae farming waste into a biomass­based carbon black alternative. Founded in 2013, the company has made good progress in rolling out a soybean ink alternative for printers, applying the inks on paper or textiles. Major brands including Patagonia, Nike and New Balance have adopted Living Ink’s algae ink for hangtags and packaging. “We've shown that the product works, that we can scale and ship across the world. We are no longer a small start­up with a small vial of material. Our inks are being used by the biggest factories in the world,” says Scott Fulbright, Living Ink’s co­founder and CEO, who notes that New Balance has printed 83 million hangtags with the company’s black ink. However, price and supply chain inertia have limited the algae­tech company’s growth. “One of our challenges is that factory partners have no incentive to work with us,” he tells Sportstextiles. This is why he intends to “play outside the lines of the industry” in 2025. “We are small enough that we can take some risks, and that includes education and transparency.” Brands have little insight into what dyes or pigments are used to make their products, and even less knowledge of the quantities involved. Living Ink believes that bringing light to this industry blind spot may unlock sales.

Securing offtake is another issue that Living Ink, like Algaeing and most textile innovation start­ups, faces. “In the next two years, we need to obtain solid commitments from brands. This will enable us to build a larger production facility, and it will help drive prices down further,” says Mr Fulbright. He believes packaging is as an easier market to enter, as “the sales cycle is shorter, and it is easier to plug in a new ingredient”.

Living Ink has plans to build a pilot plant, possibly in Vietnam, to supply the country’s many footwear manufacturers. “We’ve pivoted to make smaller production units that require lower capital investment,” he says. “Depending on market demand, we can build units of various sizes capable of treating from 180 to 5,000 tonnes of biomass.” This, he adds, is small for a chemicals company, and small, too, in a carbon black industry valued at $36 billion.

Seaweed in the wild

Living Ink is also investigating other sources of biomass, and specifically waste from the brewing industry. “Having access to different forms of biomass derisks our business,” says Mr Fulbright. The company is also investigating harvesting macro algae in the ocean. “It makes for a great sustainability story. It doesn’t require a manmade facility, nor manmade nutrients to feed algae,” he tells Sportstextiles.

Finland­based Origin by Ocean was created specifically to address invasive algae blooms. Mari Granström, a diver and a PhD in organic chemistry, founded the company to solve two problems: to

produce more sustainable and non fossil­fuel based chemicals and to support communities affected by algae blooms. The company established in 2019 has patented a biorefining process that can extract valuable compounds from all species of brown algae, says Noora Westerlund, communication director for Origin by Ocean. It has identified five different compounds that can be extracted from sargassum and has already launched sodium alginate and fucoidan, which it says can replace oil­based chemicals in textiles, food, cosmetics and detergents. The production process is said to be ecological, using water­based solvents without harmful chemicals. Ms Westerlund says there are millions of tonnes of unutilised algae biomass that are left to rot and emit methane in the process. “Current farmed algae production does not meet demand,” she says, adding that solutions for algae produced in nature are urgently needed.

Last year, Origin by Ocean finalised its pilot phase and expects to launch small­scale production in Otaniemi, in the south of Finland, which could be ready for commercial production during 2025. The company has raised €7.5 million in seed funding and is now securing €17.5 million for a commercial outsourced manufacturing facility planned to be in operation in 2026. Further afield, by 2030, it intends to build a large­scale biorefinery in the Caribbean.

The company’s first concrete textile project involved Finnish fashion brand Marimekko that printed its iconic Unikko patterns using Origin by Ocean’s alginate­based paste in its printing facility in Helsinki. “In the project, a synthetic thickener was replaced with our algae­based thickener in the print paste,” says Ms Westerlund. The challenge in growing its business is that most brands don’t own their manufacturing facilities, she points out. “We are now negotiating offtake agreements so that we can build a price­competitive production facility.”

Seaweed­based fibres

Other companies are developing seaweedbased fibres. A project that originated with students at the Fashion Institute of Technology in

LIVING INK

Living Ink uses waste from algae farming to make its carbon black alternative.

CREDIT:

New York and originally called Algiknit, Keel Labs now has a few concrete projects under its belt. Its Kelsun seaweed­based fibre has been used by Stella McCartney and was featured in a limited run of shirts by Outerknown, a brand founded by surf legend Kelly Slater. The company, which is now based in Morrisville, North Carolina, has made real progress since 2019 when it filed a patent for “an alginate­based fibre made of a composition comprising an alginate, a cellulose and a polyol plasticiser, such as glycerol”. These entirely plant­based components are said to endow the fibre with the strength and stability needed for industrial textile applications. The patent indicates that the fibre may be an acetate yarn, or some other form of manmade cellulosic fibre. Whatever its make­up, it is said to have better mechanical properties than conventional alginate fibres, which can be brittle in an unhydrated state, as specified in the patent filing. The document also indicates that the fibre’s alginate content is less than 10%.

The fabric used by Outerknown was composed of 70% regenerative organic cotton and 30% Kelsun. It is expected that Keel Labs, like other next­gen fibre companies, will now seek to expand beyond capsule collections to achieve full scale production.

In Brazil, PhycoLabs is also working on creating a fibre from seaweed. It is based in São Paulo.

Founder and CEO, Thamires Pontes, says the company’s technology “leverages the unique properties of marine algae, highlighting its high nutrient content, renewability and versatility”. The company sources its seaweed from aquaculture farms or coastal plantations in Brazil that prioritise sustainable, responsible cultivation practices. “Our process avoids ‘heavy’ chemistry while drawing on synthetic fibre production. The fibre can resemble synthetic materials, and when burned, it emits a

smell similar to that of natural fibres. Unlike synthetics, it is designed to prevent microplastic release during washing and aims to be biodegradable and recyclable. We’re refining the formulation to meet industrial­scale production demands,” she tells Sportstextiles.

Phycolabs is currently in pre­commercialisation phase and has its eyes on a possible industrial production launch in 2026. “We have successfully created functional prototypes and are actively engaging with key partners in the textile and fashion sectors. Our next steps include scaling up production and refining our fibre to meet the demands of large­scale manufacturing,” she says.

A good story

Seaweed is presented as a natural resource that doesn’t use land, captures carbon dioxide through photosynthesis, and appears to be thriving, but is it an easy sell? For Renana Krebs at Algaeing, it is a good story. In addition to its sustainable and non­toxic nature, she notes that it can convey a skin wellness message.

People love the algae story, agrees Scott Fulbright at Living Ink. But his goal is now to propose a menu of biomass sources, at different price points and having different sustainability scores. “A brand can choose the biomass that suits it best, for marketing or sustainability purposes. If algae is its story, then algae it will be,” he says.

“We make high value products that are easy to sell,” says Noora Westerlund at Origin by Ocean. “But algae’s full potential is not easy to understand, and not all renewable resources are sustainable.”

She notes that kelp farming for food is not necessarily done in a sustainable manner. “If demand for algae­based ingredients rises, companies may be tempted to develop harsher production methods and farming that is extractive.”

What may at first sight seem to be a perfect source of green chemistry and materials could be just another instance of greenwashing. In its various forms, seaweed has proved that it can be a tiny part of a product, the ink on a hangtag or a few strands of cellulose in a yarn; it has yet to prove that it can make a bigger splash in our wardrobes.

An algae-based thickener developed by Origin by Ocean was used by Marimekko to print its iconic Unikko motif.

CREDIT: MARIMEKKO

Surfwear brand Outerknown crafted its popular Blanket Shirt from Keel Labs’ Kelsun fibre, in a blend with regenerative organic cotton.

CREDIT: RYAN DUFFIN / KEEL LABS

Advertise in Sportstextiles magazine & sportstextiles.com to promote your latest products and innovations to a readership of over 5,500 worldwide. For more information: simon@worldtrades.co.uk

More than 100 exhibitors, exclusively European, presented their collections for summer 2026 at Mare di Moda last November. The event includes a section, known as the Private Label – Outsourcing Show, dedicated to garment manufacturers based in the wider Euro-Med region.

ALL CREDITS: MARE DI MODA

Close connections

From young designers to beach and fitness wear makers, and from fabric mills to accessories suppliers, the entire beach, swim and athleisure ecosystem heads to Cannes once a year in November to present new collections, and to meet up with customers and fellow manufacturers. In this sense, Mare di Moda is similar to Performance Days in that it is the place where a highly specialised and close­knit (pun intended) community enjoys exchanging views and conducting business.

“We are a trade fair, but we are also a community, we support students entering the market and we are loyal to manufacturers and mills based in Europe or in the wider geographical region. We are all members of a same ecosystem,” says Claudio Taiana, president of Mare di Moda. He is convinced, as are the exhibitors that Sportstextiles talked to, of the importance of supporting the local industry. “The European focus is the secret to our success. The market is difficult, confused, and many companies are suffering. Those that are successful need to be

A highly focused show, Mare di Moda attracts top buyers and suppliers in the swim, beach and athleisure ­ sports sectors. In addition to its mission to support the European textile industry, it has the added draw of offering the industry an opportunity to build business in the desirable destination that is Cannes.

even more efficient, present, active and reactive by exhibiting at shows like Mare di Moda and Performance Days.”

The Cannes textile exhibition, like its functional fabric counterpart in Munich, mirrors the market it represents. Maintaining high exhibitor and visitor numbers is a challenge. Cost­cutting measures means that brands are sending fewer buyers and designers to trade shows. Representatives from

763 companies made the trip to see the products made by the 100 companies exhibiting at the 22nd edition held in November 2024. In Mr Taiana’s view, key buyers continue to come, although he admits that fewer young brands and companies looking to diversify into beachwear or athleisure attended the 2024 edition.

“The market is difficult for the textile industry in general,” he says, “but the swimwear sector is somewhat protected as it is part of the holiday and travel market that is suffering less than other industries.” He has nonetheless a clear vision of the show’s role: to promote European production, expertise, quality, innovation and creativity.

Sustainability on the horizon

Compared to other sectors, the swim, beach and athleisure markets have been slower to embrace sustainability, notes Mr Taiana. Their reliance on synthetics, mainly polyamide and elastane, is arguably the main reason why progress on the green front is less visible. Recycled or biobased polyamides are not as common as polyester made from recycled PET plastics. The one shining exception is Aquafil’s Econyl, a recycled polyamide 6 that has been on the market for close to 15 years now, and can be found in the collections of many mills.

The Lycra Company made a strong showing at the event to promote its bioderived Lycra Ecomade which is now in the starting blocks. As the official partner of the beachwear and athleisure fabric show, and with plans for future large­scale production of the new fibre, The Lycra Company is reaching out to all possible future customers to prepare for the transition. Alistair Williamson, European and South Asian market lead for the company, presented its strategy in developing the new Lycra EcoMade yarn. Its make­up is 70% derived from industrial corn as

CLAUDIO TAIANA, MARE DI MODA

“ We promote European production, expertise, quality, innovation and creativity. ”

opposed to “finite fossil fuels,” he says. The company expects it to be commercially available in 12 months’ time. It is also expected to be available in all of the company’s ranges, including Lycra Xtra Life, Lycra Adaptive, Lycra Black and Lycra Adaptive Black. These references are widely used in beach and activewear.

The fibre producer expects to be able to switch 20% to 25% of its global production to the bio­derived yarn, which it insists will be a drop­in solution for the industry. “The beauty of Lycra EcoMade is that we can scale a product that doesn’t require any change in processing for mills and offers exactly the same performance. No compromise whatsoever,” says Nicolas Banyols, head of sales for The Lycra Company. There is a price difference with conventional petrochemical Lycra yarns, but he notes that its additional cost would be “marginal at garment level”. Although oil prices are now low, they are volatile. This would not be the case with industrial corn, says Gary Smith, CEO. He insists that the new yarn will offer the industry “consistency and reliability”.

Lycra EcoMade is certified bio­derived by the US Department of Agriculture (USDA), backed by ISCC, a traceability standard, and its carbon footprint has been found to be 44% lower than conventional Lycra yarns by a third­party agency. “This will help The Lycra Company reduce its carbon footprint, and for brands, it will contribute to reducing their scope­three impacts,” says Mr Williamson, who adds that the bio­derived fibre

As the official partner of the beachwear and athleisure fabric show, The Lycra Company had a strong presence at the event, with a lounge area, presentations, and meetings with the press.

Pictured here, from left to right, Nicolas Banyols, head of sales, Alistair Williamson, European and South Asian market lead, and Gary Smith, CEO.

also meets growing consumer demand for more sustainable products.

The focus on the new bioderived elastane yarn offered Carvico and Jersey Lomellina was a perfect platform to present fabrics made from the yarn. “Carvico has already launched industrial production of Lycra EcoMade in its VitaLife range, which is an evolution of our Vita collection, first introduced in 2012,” Romina Barelli, marketing manager tells Sportstextiles. The fabrics are made from a blend of 78% Econyl regenerated nylon from Aquafil and 22% Lycra Ecomade. Furthering their sustainability credentials, the fabrics are dyed with metal­ and bisphenol­free colourants. Not all shades are available, she points out, but the fabrics offer the same performance properties as Vita fabrics. They are soft to the touch, grin resistant, offer UV protection, chlorine resistance and muscle control. It has been, she says, “a big step for the group, but also one that our customers, especially in the US market, have been requesting.”

Local focus

The European­centric nature of Mare di Moda makes it an important venue for suppliers whose business is based on quality, flexibility and proximity. SPW, which has received backing from a Madrid­based private equity group, Alantra, is one such example. Sales director Laurent Costella, who retains shares in the Catalan mill, tells us that the new backers support European manufacturing and intend to help SPW diversify into new market segments, such as woven fabrics and gripper tapes. “In the current context, local production and keeping stocks low are increasingly important,” he says. “We have to be very flexible and invest in new machines. Our strategy is to focus on local sourcing to maintain local expertise and skills for the niche markets we specialise in.”

French rubber specialist Plymouth is one of the few, if not the last, remaining manufacturers of natural elastic trims in Europe. The Lyon­based company has also patented a process for recycling natural rubber. “We can incorporate between 50% and 70% recycled content depending on end­use, and guarantee high performance for six years,” says Mounir Saad, CEO, insisting that Plymouth’s elastic trims do not yellow, a key feature of quality.

At Innova Fabrics, sales manager, Fabio Cescon, is looking to grow business with luxury brands, which makes Mare di Moda an important date in the company’s calendar. The mill highlighted its clean­cut polyamide and natural­fibre fabrics, which resist curling, and its interlock knits, which feel like a bonded fabric, and can be used in a wide range of products, from intimate apparel to outerwear.

Activewear and swimwear brands may use similar stretch fabrics, but their purchasing decisions are different, notes Matteo Taiana, product manager for Italian mill Taiana. “For beachwear fabrics the main task of the development teams is to focus on pattern designs and colour selection. Unlike sports brands that are always looking for new performance properties, buyers at Mare di Moda are more concerned with

quality, trends and uniqueness,” he tells Sportstextiles. The beachwear sector accounts for roughly 40% of its sales, with sports making up the remainder.

Taiana’s sports fabrics target the cycling and running sectors. “The running market is changing, there is a lot of innovation, in footwear of course, but also in clothing,” he says. “Consumers want the same high­tech in their clothing as they have in their footwear. It is their way of showing their dedication to the sport.” He notes that many new brands are entering the market, and that these “smaller brands are very open to innovation. They are closer to their running communities. Their innovation comes directly from the field and that is a real driver of sales.”

Bikini Beach Concept, a manufacturer based in Tunisia, is seeing growing interest from sports brands, and this has inspired it to diversify for the first time in its six­year existence, says managing director, Karim Fertani. “The same machines and same skills are required for sports apparel,” he points out. Specialising in the mid­ to high­end market, he notes the importance of proximity and speed to market, as well as duty­free exports within the EuroMed region.

After first specialising in sports and athleisure and now diversifying into beach and swimwear, Apparel Tasker, a manufacturer based in London, is taking the opposite route. “When fitness and athleisure went down, we picked up swimwear and resort wear,” says Alex Gorgan, who founded the company with Zach Sartor. But sustainability is the most important differentiation point for the zero­waste manufacturer. “Leftover fabrics are used to make scrunchies, and the rest is turned into insulation or new fibres,” she says. This is a sign that sustainability is slowly weaving its way into the world of holiday and resort wear.

The show offered Carvico, and its sister company Jersey Lomellina, an opportunity to introduce the very first knits made from the new bio-derived Lycra EcoMade fibre.

Tapping into new roots

The team at Yulex has been busy. The natural rubber specialist has revamped its foam offering for wetsuits – resulting in Decathlon launching the first 100% natural rubber polymer wetsuit suit last summer – and launched a textile filament of its purified natural rubber latex targeted at the stretch denim market and socks. But it also has its eye on the footwear sector, believing that, as part of sustainability commitments, brands are seeking to move away from petrochemical­based products and are looking for natural alternatives with traceable supply chains.

The company has its roots in US­based Yulex Corporation, which spent years developing natural rubbers from guayule shrubs in Arizona, aiming to establish a domestic supply chain. Founder Jeff Martin and his colleagues worked with outdoor brand Patagonia on an alternative to neoprene, and the companies launched guayule rubber­containing wetsuits in 2013.

Over the years, the company segued from guayule, with that technology commercialised by Bridgestone and Versalis, changing its raw material to latex extracted from rubber trees, Hevea, sourced from plantations in Sri Lanka and

FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGY

Yulex believes a desire for options other than petrochemical ­ based raw materials will create opportunities in the footwear sector and its repositioning in Asia will help it capitalise on demand.

Guatemala. However, with most of the natural rubber producers located in Thailand and Vietnam, for Mr Martin and now­CEO Liz Bui – who was born in Vietnam but moved to the US as a child after the war – that meant a relocation. “In terms of carbon footprint, it didn’t make sense to move a large container to Southeast Asia,” Ms Bui tells us. “Most of the footwear companies have a huge presence in Vietnam and there's a lot of apparel moving there, too, so we wanted to develop a natural rubber supply chain closer to production. It just made sense to start thinking about how we can really help our customers, and transport is a huge part of any carbon reduction strategy.”

Certification process

Although smallholder farms provide 90% of the rubber in Thailand and about half in Vietnam, many were operating independently, so Mr Martin and Ms Bui partnered the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification, Forest Trends Association, Vietnamese Academy of Forest Science, Vietnam Forest Certification Office and the Vietnamese Rubber Association, working collaboratively to make introductions and galvanise the smallholders. “Together, we travelled all over Vietnam, talking to smallholders talking about sustainability and finding cooperatives and legal business entities to coordinate the sustainable forest practices and certification, so they could sell their rubber to processors.”

Yulex now works with more than 240 smallholders in Thailand and 1,500 in Vietnam. Each has registered land­use rights, dates of first tree plantings going back as far as 1940 in Thailand and 1994 in Vietnam, and geolocation coordinates of the plantation, through their smallholder cooperative. This means they will be compliant with the incoming EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR), which requests proof that products do not contribute to deforestation or forest degradation. “For these smallholders, their livelihood and their household income is derived from their small plot of land, which is anywhere from 1 to 1.5 hectares, in their backyard,” adds Ms

Bui. “After some 100 years of the natural rubber industry, this is still a cash business, yet you have groups who don't really have good access to banking or to credit. And as you move up the supply chain, it is the retail brands that make the largest margin and the person on the ground supplying the raw material that makes the least.”

To help address this imbalance, Yulex set up an Equitable Agriculture profit­share programme to provide better security of income for the farmers.

Protein removal

Tree latex consists of an emulsion of water and rubber (or biopolymers) and non­rubber particles. The non­rubber particles consist of dirt, oil, proteins, metals and other impurities, which are removed. Removing the proteins also substantially removes the risk of Type 1 latex allergy responses.

The purified latex is branded as Yulex Pure, and is used to make Yulastic filament and, in some instances, the foams. The change of supply chain also allowed the company to work with different producers and manufacturers, increasing the research and development to create upgraded products, which it launched last summer.

The foams are versatile; they can be made with various properties depending on the end product. Alongside the wetsuits, they have found a home in bags, accessories and boots. Nutrition brand Sports Research last summer launched what it

Yulex partner French brand Equipement De Vie was founded to address the need for shoes that meet sailors’ rigorous demands.

CREDIT: EQUIPEMENT DE VIE

claims is the first natural rubber waist trainer while, earlier in the year, Scottish inland ‘surf resort’ Lost Shore announced all its wetsuits would be made from Yulex foam after their tests showed they were warmer than standard synthetic rubber suits. “Natural rubber is a very good polymer –consider that aeroplanes have to use 100% natural rubber for their tyres,” comments Ms Bui on its attributes. “It is really about performance first for us, but it also has a good sustainability story –that is a bonus.”

Footwear focus

There are clearly multiple factors affecting the choice of materials, including cost, ease of use, sustainability credentials and how they fit into existing manufacturing and supply chains. The price of both natural and synthetic rubbers fluctuates depending on supply and demand: natural rubber depends on crop yields among other things, while synthetic alternatives’ prices are based on petroleum values. Although it might take a long time, natural rubber biodegrades, depending on the level of vulcanisation or how much curing agent is in the product, whereas synthetics will not; there is already a big carbon reduction from choosing a natural product over one made from a non­renewable resource and the emissions associated with its extraction and manufacture, suggests Ms Bui.

As well as growing the filament business for socks and denim, the company is now focusing on increasing its footprint in the footwear industry. The foam material’s adaptability means it can be used for outsoles and insoles, as well as the foam in the collar and the tongue.

Early adopters for the Yulex foam include US brand Bogs Boots, UK­based Little Green

DECATHLON PIONEERS FIRST NATURAL RUBBER SUIT

French sporting goods retailer Decathlon’s unveiling of its Yulex100 wetsuit last June was hailed as a milestone for the wetsuit industry. While multiple brands have used Yulex in their collections, and Patagonia and UK brand Finisterre converted all their product to Yulex­containing material rather than promoting it through limited lines, they had not achieved a 100% natural rubber suit.

Yulex worked with Decathlon for two years, including conducting more than 50 lab tests and analysing 50 formulas, before Decathlon was satisfied with the performance. Use of the natural rubber raw material provides an 80% reduction in CO2 equivalent emissions compared with petroleum­based neoprene foam and it remains as light, warm, durable and stretchy, said the partners.

Yulex100 has been introduced in Decathlon’s beginner junior shorty range, which accounted for 34% of the surf wetsuits sales in 2023, and in the snorkelling tops, representing 27% of the diving and snorkelling sales for the company. This shift marks the beginning of a journey to eliminate neoprene from the entire wetsuit range. Future expansions are planned for adult ranges and technical solutions are actively being explored for other watersports, such as diving and open­water swimming, that require specific technical solutions.

Anna Turrell, chief sustainability officer at Decathlon, said: “As the world's largest sporting goods brand and retailer, we believe in reshaping the way we do business to reduce the impact we have on the planet. To do this requires a rewiring of the way we think and act as a business.”

Decathlon operates 1,700 stores in 72 countries.

Radicals and sailing shoe brand Equipement De Vie. At the December edition of ISPO Munich, Ortholite Cirql presented a ‘Zero’ concept shoe which had Yulex foam uppers (shoe tongue) as well as Yulex natural rubber outsoles. Brand partners in Vietnam are also helping to test the various formulas and performance attributes of Yulex products and materials in foams, outsoles and filament for knitted uppers.

“Footwear always used to be about natural rubber, but the industry has converted almost entirely to synthetic materials because they are cheaper and easier to work with; there's an exact chemistry, whereas with natural rubber there’s a lot of knowhow and expertise that's been lost, so we're trying to bring that back,” says Ms Bui. “But I think with the advent of sustainability, and the need to reduce carbon emissions, brands are wanting to try to move back to using natural products. What's going to be important is which brands adopt it first.”

Ortholite’s Vietnam-based Cirql company introduced Cirql Zero, an industrially compostable and biodegradable foam innovation, at ISPO Munich as part of the ‘Disappearing Shoe’ concept section.

CREDIT: CIRQL

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CREDIT: BOG’S BOOTS

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Growing consensus

How can brands justify the choices they make when it comes to selecting materials and suppliers? It is not possible to make these decisions solely on cost as responsible business practices become more prevalent and incoming regulations such as the European Union’s (EU) Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive and Green Claims Directive will require companies to be transparent about their choices.

To analyse materials, more than 40,000 businesses use the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (MSI), a cradle­to­gate assessment tool that calculates environmental impacts and is operated by Cascale (formerly called the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, with the index hosted by Worldly). For each material, the MSI provides scores, taking into account the energy, water and chemicals used, as well as waste generation and water pollution. Environmental impact is measured for global warming, nutrient pollution, water scarcity, abiotic resource depletion, use of fossil fuels and chemistry.

But trying to compare these materials, with a myriad of variables, is difficult, and there have been cries – particularly from natural fibres producers – that comparing certain data sets

SUSTAINABILITY

After years of outdated data on cotton, 13 industry bodies worked with Cascale to provide new figures for the Higg Index. While they stress it is important that fibres are only compared with like­for­like, it has been described as a step forward, as accurate data becomes ever more important to buyers, since LCAs are only telling part of the story of cotton, and do not cover or reflect any social or economic impacts.

creates an unfair picture. This has partly been because natural fibres such as leather, wool and cotton are often assigned high carbon footprint figures because of the resources needed to grow or collect the fibres, and also because the figures stop at the gate (manufacturing). This means that the material’s durability – which some claim is the most important sustainability metric – is not

Better Cotton in Kolondieba, Mali.

considered. Other factors, such as microplastic migration and synthetic fibre’s inability to degrade, are also not represented, for instance in the European Union’s Product Environmental Footprint (see sidebar on Make the Label Count).

Over the years, the Higg Index has been criticised by several associations, including leather and wool industry representatives and in 2022 by the Norwegian Consumer Authority, which recommended its users stop backing claims with Higg data. In response, Higg temporarily suspended the MSI and commissioned a third­party review. Consultants at KPMG said it needed to improve the quality of data and add warnings to avoid inappropriate comparisons.

In the background, work was already under way to update the data attributed to cotton. Thirteen associations – including Better Cotton, Cotton Council International, Cotton Incorporated, National Cotton Council of America, Organic Cotton Accelerator and the US Cotton Trust Protocol – gathered online, initially monthly, as part of the Cotton Expert Team. Over three years, they worked to build a blueprint for cotton data. This included defining lifecycle assessment (LCA) data source requirements, modelling approaches and data­use best­practices, as well as addressing gaps or considerations outside LCA data. The task was to agree on the data needed, define a common template, the assumptions underlying the model, and the intended and allowed use cases. They also discussed the common figures existing in the literature.

Change of heart

For many years, associations have shied away from producing collaborative figures, so what was the impetus for the change of heart? For Better Cotton, under which about 20% of the world’s cotton is grown, it was partly because pooling resources on LCAs meant money could be used elsewhere. “The opportunity to share LCA data as a united industry group has allowed us to continue targeting investment in our field­level programmes rather than channelling these funds towards Better Cotton’s own LCAs,” Miguel Gomez­Escolar Viejo, Better Cotton’s head of monitoring, evaluation and learning, tells us.

Better Cotton is a non­profit, multi­stakeholder governance group that promotes better standards in cotton farming across 22 countries. More than 2.1 million farmers have a licence to sell their cotton as Better Cotton and the network has more than 2,700 members. Miguel Gomez­Escolar Viejo notes a global LCA for Better Cotton could not capture the regional nuances, but, however, country­level LCAs could link the data to physically sourced cotton and further incentivise brands to invest in improvements. “What is exciting about this new LCA is the sheer amount of data we have used,” he adds. “Data has been collected from over 60,000 farmers. Using all our farm­level data is a truly exciting way to better reflect reality and lay the foundations for targeted farmer support that helps tackle their environmental footprint.”

For the US Cotton Trust Protocol, which launched in 2020 and covers more than 2 million

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CREDIT: TEXTILE EXCHANGE

acres, data is key and updating the current sets was a key driver for collaborating. “Our shared goal is to enhance the depth and quality of data within the Higg MSI methodology and results,” Daren Abney, CEO of the Protocol, tells Sportstextiles “Other than data from Australia, Better Cotton in India and the US Cotton Trust Protocol, as of today, other datasets are old and of poor quality – with some dating as far back as 2007. As such, this collaboration is crucial for improving the accuracy and representation of future assessments, ultimately benefiting the entire cotton industry.”

Geographic nuances

So, what has changed? The updated dataset incorporates more recent information for the US, Australia and India and is more likely to reflect differences between geographies. The modelling, data collection methods and the year of data collection are different, and variations will also arise in some of the metrics. However, specific differences in results depend on the impact category being considered. Mr Abney points out that harmonisation always comes with a set of limiting assumptions. “Differences in data between the Higg MSI and data reported directly by the Trust Protocol can arise from variations in methodologies, scope, background data and data collection periods,” he says, but adds that overall, it can identify areas for improvement and drive positive change.

Cascale (which did not respond to interview requests) said the new cotton LCA methodology offers “unprecedented accuracy and consistency”. “This new methodology provides businesses with reliable data to make informed sourcing and sustainability decisions,” it added.

However, the cotton associations warn against comparison. “Sharing Better Cotton­specific LCA data may have several positive and negative impacts that we are currently evaluating,”

Tending to the fields in Goiás, Brazil.

CREDIT: US COTTON TRUST PROTOCOL

Gomez­

“We understand the initial desire is for users to compare the data sets from different regions and programmes, or against conventional cotton production. However, these are not valid comparisons and they can lead to inaccurate conclusions that do not support the industry in working towards the collective environmental footprint reduction of cotton production.

“For one, this data should not be used for sourcing strategies since LCAs are only telling part of the story of cotton, and do not cover or reflect

HIGG’S LEATHER TURNAROUND

In 2020, leather industry bodies, including the International Council of Tanners and the Leather and Hide Council of America, requested that Cascale suspend leather’s MSI score due to “inappropriate methodologies” and “out­of­date, unrepresentative, inaccurate and incomplete data” that had led to leather being burdened with a disproportionately high score. “This has led to a negative perception of leather that does not reflect its sustainable, circular nature,” said Dr Kerry Senior, then secretary of the International Council of Tanners. “On the basis of the current Higg score, manufacturers are deselecting leather in favour of fossil fuel­derived, unsustainable synthetic products,” he said at the time. Cascale did not suspend the score, but opened consultations.

Although it was not announced by Cascale, last October consultancy Spin360, multi­stakeholder initiative The Leather Working Group (LWG) and promotion body Leather Naturally announced new figures for bovine leather had been adopted by the MSI, on the back of a joint body of work that included data from 45 manufacturing facilities across 18 countries and evaluated 92 leather products. It also encompassed information from the footwear, automotive, leathergoods and upholstery sectors. From this, the values were revised, with reductions across every Higg MSI categoryglobal warming potential, eutrophication, water scarcity, abiotic depletion and chemistry.

The new dataset, included in the October 2024 update of the MSI, resulted in the environmental impacts of bovine leather being between 55% and 67% lower than the previous MSI value. The global warming potential, which previously showed an impact of 36.8 points on the scale, has been reduced by 60% to 14.6 points.

explains

Escolar Viejo.

any social or economic impacts, weather variability or seasonal differences, among other factors. For example, an LCA reflecting a year in which extreme weather events led to lower yields would reflect differently to an LCA covering a year in which there were no such events, without creating space to explain the impact external variables had.”

The LCA data for India is the first set of figures within this model, and it cannot be compared with any previous data sets. Better Cotton will update data from the same regions at regular intervals, which will make these data sets comparable and show change and improvements over time.

“Previously we took the position that we were not in favour of publishing a global Better Cotton LCA, since it would not reflect regional nuances, challenges and priorities,” adds Mr Gomez­Escolar Viejo. “However, if the only use case for this dataset would be to account for Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions, a global Better Cotton figure could be useful and considered the ‘best available data’. Cotton production emissions datasets seem to be a requirement from brands since they are increasingly under legislative pressure to substantiate their sustainability reporting with data. It is important to remember that good data used poorly would be akin to using inaccurate data.”

With cotton being the world’s second­most used fibre, according to the Textile Exchange at 22% of global usage (although this is half that of polyester, at 54%), the need to grow and buy responsibility is pressing. The Higg MSI will be updated bi­annually and cotton programmes will, in the future, be able to add data directly to the index. Eventually, users will be able to select

specific cotton programmes and regions, said Cascale, adding the cotton Member Expert Team (MET) has inspired new workstreams, including a textile wet processing MET. “In the future, other fibres may come forward for a data overhaul,” it added (see sidebar on leather).

“The Trust Protocol is committed to continuous improvement and is exploring alignment with other industry standards and methodologies to ensure that over time there will be a foundation and expectation of consistency and comparability across assessments,” concludes Mr Abney. “We believe that by working with Cascale and the broader industry, we can create a more robust and impactful assessment landscape for sustainable cotton.”

THE STICKING POINTS OF PEF

One of the reasons Higg and other data sets are important is that they often influence other calculations. Last autumn, Better Cotton and the International Cotton Association joined Make the Label Count coalition, which is calling for reformation of the EU’s Product Environmental Footprints (PEF). Most of the members represent natural fibres, and say the inherently circular attributes, including renewability at start­of­life and biodegradability at end­of­life, need to be included. MLTC also says the socio­economic impact of fibre production and textile manufacturing is not considered in the current methodology – for instance, how many people make their livelihoods from cotton growing in developing countries – and sustainable agricultural management practices that replenish the land are not accounted for.

“There is a risk that LCA data can result in carbon tunnel­vision and brands could turn towards synthetic fibres which, under an imperfect methodology and use can give the impression of a lower environmental footprint, these results could drive demand for synthetic fibres,” comments Miguel Gomez­Escolar Viejo from Better Cotton. “The PEF methodology fails to capture critical environmental impacts unique to synthetic materials, such as microplastics and post­consumer plastic waste, and in doing so favours synthetic fibres over natural fibres.”

In the first quarter of 2025, the European Commission, European Parliament and European Council will vote on the Green Claims Directive and the preferred methodology for evaluating sustainability metrics in textiles.

Higg said its tool is designed to evolve and will conform with the future EU PEF Apparel & Footwear Methodology.

HOW TRANSPARENT ARE THE INDEXES?

The operators of these platforms wield influence on the industry, as how they present materials and processes that influence decisions. Last autumn, the Transformers Foundation published a report focusing on Cascale, Textile Exchange, the Social and Labor Convergence Program and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) exploring “the systemic barriers preventing meaningful supplier engagement in some of the industry’s most influential multi­stakeholder initiatives”.

The report says rules, governance and processes “often perpetuate supplier exclusion”. The organisations, though well­intentioned, often reinforce barriers that limit supplier participation, leading to what it calls “a cycle of distrust, disengagement and ineffective sustainability strategies”. It calls for the adoption of a ‘fair process’ model based on “non­biased decision­making, equitable engagement and transparency”.

The MSIs responded to the Transformers’ report, saying they “welcome feedback”, outlining how they are addressing some points.

Cotton sustainability programmes are highly varied, a one-size-fits-all approach is not appropriate. However, we believe there's room for everyone to contribute to a solution”, says Daren Abney from the US Cotton Trust Protocol.

CREDIT: US COTTON TRUST PROTOCOL

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An eye for innovation

David Parkes is famous in the outdoor industry for having brought many innovative performance fabrics to the global market. Before stepping down from Concept III, the company he founded in 1983, he takes time here to reflect on the evolution of the industry and to express hope that the next generation will continue his game­changing legacy.

From polar fleece, to wicking knits and Drytex, you’ve been instrumental in helping textile innovators bring new performance fabrics to market. What characteristics do these success stories have in common?

If I had to choose a single unifying factor, it would be passion, from the person introducing the product and from the brand bringing it to market. They also share a common understanding of the need to innovate. But introducing a new product to market also requires courage and commitment. This is the starting point of the performance textiles business, and it has been our core business for some 40 years.

How has the industry’s approach to textile innovation evolved over the years?

The issue of sustainability, the introduction of regulations, and the supply chain disruptions of the last three or four years have changed the way companies work with their suppliers. Brands now have to tick a number of boxes before they can start working with a new mill or introduce a new product. In the past, I would show a fabric development and, if interested, a brand would order yardage, and we would build a relationship from there. Now, with compliance and certification processes, the onboarding of a new supplier has become a long process, taking three or four months. If a brand finds that the potential supplier doesn’t meet its requirements, it is time wasted for all involved. There is still high interest

CREDIT: CONCEPT

David Parkes (top centre) at Performance Days last October. As founder of Concept III, his mission for decades has been to develop next-generation performance fabrics for the outdoor industry.

III

David Parkes, founder of Concept III

in the next performance fabric that will make a difference. But it has to go through all the hoops in a brand’s product­development process and supply chain management systems.

You remarked once that small companies have, for the most part, been the biggest drivers of innovation in the outdoor market. Is this still the case? Smaller brands will be more open to innovation because they are looking for a differentiation point. They need an edge over the established brands and they need to develop a product that will make them stand out. The newer and smaller brands are also often very passionate about the environment. Looking back some 25 or 30 years, many outdoor brands were still very entrepreneurial, and many of them have now become big corporations.

After years of picking out new materials and technologies, in which areas do you still hope to see breakthroughs?

There has been much imaginative development in woven fabrics and I am sure this will continue, but knits now offer the most interesting challenge. Our community should work closely with yarn producers, product developers and brands to bring the next game­changer to performance apparel. There has been a great deal of textile innovation in the past 10 years, but we have not produced a game­changer that has catalysed success, as Gore­Tex, Thinsulate, Thermolite­Coolmax, polar fleece, or Primaloft did. There have also been many new additives created to improve performance in wicking, odour management and so on. It is possible that many of these would not be compatible with today’s sustainability standards.

There has been a trend in favour of natural fibres in the past few years – what is your view of their role in performance apparel?

“ I still have a passion for product and for the industry. My frustration is that there isn’t enough focus on bringing innovation to the consumer.”

DAVID PARKES, CONCEPT III.

Excess inventory appears to be less of a problem in the industry now. Do you think this will open up more possibilities for the design and development teams of brands? Do you think that a new cycle could be beginning?

There are certainly opportunities to address in natural fibres, particularly wool, but also in manmade cellulosics and biomaterials. But I believe the sustainability story goes beyond the issue of fossil fuel fibres. I would like to see the uptake of natural fibres grow, but unfortunately, synthetics are an easier route to take, they have a strong and optimised supply chain, and the products do perform for the consumer. As for recycled fibres and circularity, there is still a limit to their availability. When it comes to textile­to­textile recycling, the industry needs to find a way to tackle this task collectively. Our business model is still very linear, it is about bringing a product to market, and then forgetting about it. If we want to bring it back into the loop, the industry needs to be made responsible for a product once it has been sold, and no one has ever done that. It means we may need a new business model. The industry is well aware of this and wishes to address this issue. But it is going to cost, and who is going to pay?

We are all hoping for a new cycle and a new generation of passionate textile innovators. I fear that we are not attracting enough young people into our industry. I am working on a few initiatives to address this. I speak at universities and am involved in the Textile Gateway. This is a website for students to learn about the textile industry. We show them how a sherpa fleece is made, how a sweater is manufactured. We reach out to high school and university students to stimulate their interest in this industry. As for overproduction, at Concept III, we do not build inventories. We do not over­manufacture. We do, literally, make to order. I see that many textile mills have taken a very responsible approach to sustainability and to reducing their carbon footprint. They are directly affected by the cost of energy and of chemicals. Mill managers have been taking a very close look at every facet of textile production. Our industry is very much aware that it has had a major impact on the environment in the past and is actively working to address this. But if we continue to make the same product year in and year out, prices will continue to drop, and we won’t be able to generate capital to invent new products. I still have a passion for product and for the industry. My frustration is that there isn’t enough focus on bringing innovation to the consumer. For our performance apparel industry to prosper, innovation has to be the priority.

One of Mr Parkes’ new side ventures, the Textile Gateway website has been set up to attract the next generation of product developers to the industry.

CREDIT: TEXTILE GATEWAY

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