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LBizMarketIntelligence_170226

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Leatherbiz Market Intelligence executive summary: • • •

• • •

Attendance at Lineapelle in Milan suggested quality rather than quantity, with serious business discussions dominating Excessive uniformity in the leather the industry is producing in some markets has shifted focus away from the material’s intrinsic properties Greater flexibility would bring leather’s natural qualities back to the forefront, showcase industry expertise and make it easier for tanners to make good use of all the raw material available Garment leather, especially suede, nubuck, and nappa, drew strong interest Sheepskins also gained attention amid low supply and rising wool demand Exotic leathers popular but always with strict audit and traceability requirements in mind

MARKET INTELLIGENCE

T

he highly anticipated Lineapelle fair in Milan came to an end on February 13. As always, the expectations of exhibitors and visitors are as diverse as the impressions most visitors take away from the fair. Some are disappointed, others are pleased. The numbers of exhibitors and visitors this February were lower than the average results of recent years. Naturally, the Olympic Games had an impact on exhibitor and visitor attendance. Extremely high hotel prices and also fear that travel to and from the event, as well as the visit itself, might not run entirely smoothly, may have played their part. For the record, the organisation was excellent and everything did run smoothly. As far as visitors from China are concerned, the scheduling directly ahead of the Lunar New Year holidays naturally also played a significant role. Likewise, the visitor count will have been affected by different days for the Micam and Mipel fairs that often take place in parallel with Lineapelle (these take place next week). In conversations, one also hears more frequently that budgets for travel, sampling, product development now require tighter approvals than in the past. Many companies are focusing on a few “must-attend” dates and cutting secondary events more consistently. Anyone who simply counts heads and looks at how crowded the aisles are might once again be disappointed. But the question remains whether “many” ultimately also means “successful”. In any case, we left Milan with the impression that, in this instance too, less can sometimes be more. Especially on the first day, when the aisles and booths appeared relatively empty, the mood among many exhibitors was by no means depressed. Quite

the opposite: many reported that although there was little activity at their stands, visitors were nevertheless of high quality. In plain terms, that usually means the visitors were either existing customers with a clear agenda, or potential new customers who wanted to discuss business opportunities in a serious manner. On the second day, visitor frequency increased noticeably. However, even then, it was really only a time window of roughly between 11:00 to 15:00 during which significantly more people appeared and the usual fair meet-ups took place that do not happen at an exhibitor’s stand. As always, this can be filed under “gossip and chatter,” without implying that this is not also an important part of a fair. As for the third day, there is usually not much more to say, especially as it fell on a Friday this time, and visitors and exhibitors generally just want to get home as quickly as possible. So what can one take away from the fair in terms of content? Here too, opinions will certainly differ. But that is also because not everyone’s offering reflects the market situation in the same way. Some things simply work better and attract more attention, others less so. That is true in good times as well as in bad. If one tries to bring some order into it, it stands out that apparel leather received a great deal of attention. Even here, however, it is more about parts and less about the whole. Suede and nubuck, highly elegant nappa leathers, lightweight double-face types, and leathers with a striking and well-executed vintage-look attracted the attention of many visitors interested in this segment. Apparel thus aligns with the broader trend toward nubuck and suede leathers that has already

been visible in the footwear segment over the past seasons. Whether one should be particularly happy about that is, nevertheless, another question. Overall, the entire sector of ovine skins was characterised by solid interest. What will be exciting now is the next question: standard raw material prices are not only at historic lows, but supply is also significantly reduced because, in many regions of the world, it has no longer been economical to obtain the raw material and prepare it for the leather industry. Another influence comes from very strong demand for wool and the significantly higher prices that have accompanied it. In particular, demand from China has increased in recent months; however, it was clearly noticeable that this was less about leather and more about gaining wool. Should an improved demand for the leather portion now develop as well, that would be the longawaited good news for this sector. For quite some time now it has been striking that the price spread between different types is extremely wide, possibly even too wide. In this context, the question of “dual-use” positioning is also raised more frequently: if wool carries the value, leather can be positioned more strongly again as a high-quality co-product, though only if the supply-chain story (origin, husbandry, processing) can be told consistently. In addition, there was a great deal of interest in more exotic leather types. This also applies to reptile skins, and almost all types of deerskin. At the same time, it is increasingly evident that exotic articles are becoming “audit-driven”: without robust documentation (legality, origin, CITES/equivalent, chain of custody), many brands simply will not put them into collections regardless of how good the article looks. In many past editions we have repeatedly pointed to the fundamentally positive development in so-called niches. Something special, in any form, has been successful for quite some time, and this trend was not only confirmed in Milan, but was strengthened and accelerated. In the apparel sector we have seen this more often recently; unfortunately, however, it often failed to make the jump into mass production and into collections. Instead, many brands preferred to focus on plasticbased imitations. This time it feels somewhat different, as one increasingly gains the impression that the original is regaining importance in apparel as well. In the footwear and leathergoods segment, impressions were largely similar. Naturally, volumes are much larger here, and the question of the material’s success or failure


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