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TUESDAY, APRIL 1 2025
Leatherbiz Market Intelligence executive summary:
• Under the current circumstances, with the tariffs that are being announced, there is almost no clarity, for now or for the foreseeable future
• The biggest problem for everyone involved is that US policy is completely unpredictable at the moment
• The political situation is currently offering plenty of excuses for the difficulties in the leather pipeline, but nobody should make the mistake of seeking to present this as the sole cause of those problems
• Leather use is declining because there is no longer enough demand
• Manufacturers of many products have little interest in using leather because it places additional production demands on them
• Many brands and manufacturers have also given in to a popular view in recent years that they should distance themselves from leather
• The leather industry has bowed down far too easily to this pressure
• As a result, we are now faced with a situation in which the total amount of raw material available is much greater than the market for the products that can be made from it
• Not so long ago, one of the biggest problems in the leather industry was ensuring a reliable supply of raw materials
• We do not need to apologise for leather as a material
• It would be appropriate not to expend too much energy inwards, and focus efforts more proactively on a modern strategy to make the material popular with consumers again.
MARKET INTELLIGENCE
The leather pipeline is struggling to come to terms with the fact that the end of the first quarter marks the beginning of a long period of calm and fewer events. This was not unusual even in years when the leather business was still dynamic and characterised by sufficient demand. This dynamism is certainly not in evidence in 2025 and has been missing for much longer.
In these times of completely unpredictable political decisions, who is supposed to pursue any kind of far-reaching entrepreneurial strategy? Just consider the large number of investments that were either made or planned in the era of functioning globalisation and virtually unrestricted free trade. Under the current circumstances and the tariffs currently being announced, almost nothing is as it was. Above all, it is completely unclear how things will continue in the foreseeable future. The consequences of these actions for the economy are certainly many times more complicated than the currently very simplistic views of many political leaders.
While the tariffs on Mexico and China are certainly of great importance to US consumers
and companies, export-dependent companies in Europe are of course very strongly affected by the tariffs that have now been imposed on their exports to the US. In any case, tariffs of 25% will have to be accommodated in any calculation, even if some luxury brands have announced corresponding price increases, they will hardly be able to offset the 25% level immediately.
Ferrari has announced that it will increase its prices in the US by 10% with immediate effect. If you take into account the very high contribution margin that some brands have at their disposal and combine this with the very high pricing power that they also have, then for the absolute luxury sector it is a burden on the margin, but not yet a really big business problem.
The situation is of course different for companies that are heavily dependent on the export market in the US, but whose margins are significantly lower than the new tariffs of 25%. Investors are now analysing very closely how high the share of turnover of these companies in the US is and what opportunities they have to pass on the tariffs to buyers.
Of course, this also affects a whole host of other supply chains, particularly those of US
companies with production facilities in Mexico. Even though customs duties may only account for a small proportion of the total cost of a product, it could still be an unmanageable burden for suppliers in the tariff-burdened countries.
This plays a particularly important role in the automotive industry and therefore also applies to supply chains in the leather industry. It becomes particularly complex for products that cross borders in both directions several times during their manufacture and production chain.
In the case of other consumer goods, exporters in China are particularly affected. Many manufacturers have already made the decision to relocate their production to other countries in south-east Asia and the Indian subcontinent. It remains to be seen whether this will work, as the government in Washington DC has already announced that it will be looking very closely at this kind of ‘evasion’ and circumvention and will be scrutinising very carefully whether suppliers from Vietnam, Thailand, India, Pakistan and many others are actually Chinese companies.
The biggest problem for everyone involved, however, is that US policy is completely unpredictable at the moment. It often gives the impression that there is no willingness or ability to really analyse the possible effects of many decisions in detail. It seems many politicians no longer want to concern themselves with minor details and would rather play big-country monopoly than think about the consequences of their actions.
Even if big politics is currently offering plenty of excuses for the difficulties in the leather pipeline, nobody should make the mistake of seeking to present this as the sole cause of the many problems. Firstly, the real and fundamental problems lie much further back and secondly, they reach much deeper into the difficulties of the leather industry.
Even though we have already discussed this many times in the past, it is important to emphasise again and again where the essential problems lie. In addition to the regional problems, which have been caused by political decisions in Europe in recent years, the core problem remains unsolved. The raw material as a by-product of meat production is declining in its material use as leather because there is no longer enough demand.
Manufacturers of many consumer goods have little interest in using the material because it places additional demands on them in the manufacture of their products that they do not want to have to deal with. In addition to the requirements arising from the use of leather as a material, many brands and manufacturers
have also given in to the global mainstream in recent years, which has made it seem sensible to distance themselves from leather, especially in western markets.
The leather industry has bowed down far too easily to the supposed pressure and demands of brands and industrial clients. The pressure led leather manufacturers to aim at meeting factually untenable requirements with regard to traceability and carbon footprint, for example. This has led to an inflation of certifications and requirements that have increasingly restricted the creativity and use of hides and skins in the consumer product industry.
As a result, we are now faced with a situation in which the total amount of raw material available is much greater than the market for the products that can be made from it. It wasn't so long ago that one of the biggest problems in the leather industry was ensuring a reliable supply of raw materials. This is no longer a high-priority criterion, unless you limit your
supply base by imposing requirements that the industry does not have to fulfil.
How long has the leather industry complained that it has not been seen as the user and refiner of a by-product, or as it has so often been called, a waste product? The conflict between the meat producer and the leather manufacturer essentially lay in the fact that the one saw his product as a high-quality raw material and the other was of the opinion that he was producing a high-quality material from a necessary evil. In fact, nothing has changed at all, but today the conditions are completely different and once again the leather industry has more problems with the situation than the meat industry.
One of the biggest problems remains the fact that people are not prepared to recognise the mistakes of the past and that justifications and excuses dominate much of the discussion. People are still more afraid of the fringe phenomena, with all their supposedly unavoidable restrictions, than actually taking
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care of what has always been the core task of a leather manufacturer throughout history: to produce a valuable and useful material from the raw material, which wins finished product manufacturers and consumers over with its properties. Those who have been around a little longer should remember what the relationship between the use of capital and labour between production and technical development and non-productive departments in a leather factory looked like in the past and what the daily reality is in many companies today. It may remind you a little of the administration in many nations. As crazy as it may seem, unfortunately the feeling creeps over you that this has ultimately prepared the ground for many recent developments.
Only when these undesirable developments are corrected will it be possible to bring the large amount of raw material that is currently not being utilised back into the chain. In this discussion, many people are focusing far too much on the industrial chain for the production of bovine hides. Sheep, goats, yak, kangaroo, buffalo, pigs and others are also part of the raw material base for the leather industry. However, in many discussions, they are not taken into account at all, especially because of the many restrictions (such as excessive traceability) that are imposed on them. Everything always revolves around the dubious and superficial assessment of bovine meat production, which ultimately affects everyone.
It is almost grotesque that the leather industry as a whole is often guided in its decisions by the assumption that the world’s population can be fed without animal proteins. So, if it is no longer a question of whether, but more a question of where, what and how much food is produced, then the production and use of leather in the pipeline can be taken care of again without restrictions, at least as long as there are no alternatives with higher added-value in the long term.
We would also like to emphasise that there is still more than enough public opinion to support a renaissance for leather. If you look at the big technology companies, then it should not go unnoticed by anyone that, alongside Elon Musk (perhaps not the best example at the moment), the head of Nvidia, Jenson Huang, among others, does not miss the opportunity to appear in a leather jacket. This is what he wears at his public appearances, almost without exception. High-tech meets and respects natural and sustainable products. What more could you want?
The market for splits is cooling off a bit. On the one hand, this may be due to the same seasonal reality that we have to expect for the leather market as a whole in the second and third quarters. On the other hand, it is of course impossible to ignore the fact that prices for cattle hides are continuing to fall, which will naturally have an impact on the market for splits sooner or later. The situation for splits for the protein industry continues to vary greatly from region to region. While we are hearing about falling prices in China, the levels in Europe are still disproportionately high. Here, too,
decisions will have to be made
Actual Slaughter Under Federal Inspection
sooner or later, because in the end it is still the economic results that determine the market. Specialities and special applications are one thing, but for standard items, raw material prices and production costs are ultimately the decisive parameters.
Raw materials for sheepskin leather continue to develop individually. On the one hand, there is still a very good and stable demand for skins that can be used as fur substitutes. This mainly concerns small skins with very fine wool. In addition, the season is now playing a role again. In Europe, the slaughter of young lambs is due in the next few months, and these light and dense-wool skins, which are only available in a certain period, must now be priced and discussed. Since there are only a few alternatives for certain end products, and the collection and processing costs are of decisive importance, negotiations on prices will certainly not be easy. There are many indications that prices will certainly not be below last year’s. A large number of skins are no longer being harvested for the leather industry and in many cases are being disposed of.
We assume that overriding political issues will continue to determine business in the coming weeks. Many supply chains need to be analysed and checked for possible impacts. This also applies to sectors that are not yet in the spotlight, such as tariffs on raw materials from the US, which are not only conceivable as counter-measures, but could also quickly redefine the flow of goods.
The supply chain for leather is already being planned again for the winter months. It is likely that we will then be able to gain insights into the current political influences.
At the same time, we will continue to follow with great interest whether the leather industry will be able to emerge from its defensive position and once again actively and confidently stand up for itself. From our point of view, it remains the case that we do not need to apologise for leather as a material. It would be appropriate not to expend too much energy inwards, and focus efforts more proactively on a modern strategy to make the material popular with consumers again.
US PERSPECTIVE
Sales of cured cattle hides for the period ending March 20 were 373,500 pieces. The figure for exports of wet blue was 199,400 pieces.
The most recent reports on hide prices showed Colorado-branded steers weighing
63-65 pounds at $18.75, with heavy Texas steers weighing 60-62 still at $16.50 per piece.
Cow hide prices remained unchanged at $13.50 for northern dairy cows, $13 for south-west dairy cows, $7 for northern branded cows and $6.50 for south-west branded cows, with weights of 50-52 pounds in each case.
The source of all these figures is the US Department of Agriculture. Please note that the prices quoted represent ‘ballpark’ figures.
Cattle markets USA
The end of last week produced a crazy day that started with a small group of steers in Iowa selling for $222. This was followed by prices all over the board. In the north, the bulk of live sales were $213 to $214 or $1-$2 weaker. Dressed prices, however, ranged from $235-$245 with the tops $10 higher than the previous week. Kansas and Texas sold cattle at $209-$210, mostly steady to $1 softer with the previous week.
The week closed with boxes on the weak side but choice cuts gained $7 and select $10 for the week. The gains were accomplished with a large increase in the slaughter volume indicating broad support from retailers for beef cuts. This may have been helped by export demand in front of the April 2 date for setting tariffs.
High prices always improve volumes of cattle offered for sale. April is the time of year when summer pastures load up and feedlots refill as fall placements sell to the processors.
Feedlots are beginning to understand the plight of the processors as replacement prices reach levels far short of price expectations, expressed by the futures contracts for late year. The most appropriate word for the replacement trade has been “scrambling” as buying interest has propelled field reps to all points in the country attempting to line up spring needs.
Summer grazing is upon us. Stocker operators looking to furnish calves for summer grass are finding short supplies. The available offerings are sky high in price, taking away much of the incentive to graze unless the operator is willing to bet on larger price increases next fall. This year some operators are purchasing 700-pound animals for summer grazing, promising to return them weighing 900 pounds to the feedyard.
The drought monitor continues to favour herd expansion but the rains never fall evenly across all regions. Computer modelling of weather patterns are done by several services
and as AI programs interpret the data, those models will compete for accuracy. Currently European weather models compete with our own models and sometimes those models differ. April will be critical towards starting summer grass pastures and spring crops in the plains.
The lack of liquidity in the feeder contract provides a perfect environment for prices to move too far in either direction. Poor liquidity leads to extreme volatility. Overdone directional price movements frequently require corrections and traders sense the vulnerability of the contract that needs to be cash-settled, but the contract index needs a redo.
USDA is forecasting a 4 million acre increase in this year’s corn planting. This will take the total acres to near 95 million acres. Corn prices barely responded to the report, but possible leaks of the USDA report weakened corn during the last week. Corn basis levels in Guymon, Oklahoma, are at $0.80, basis the May contract.
GERMAN PERSPECTIVE
This week: There is some movement in the export of animal by-products to China. The information policy of the responsible German authorities once again leaves more than a little to be desired, but as all the operators concerned are making great efforts in all areas, and there is also good cooperation in the matter, a picture often emerges before the authorities issue official information.
A solution now seems to be emerging for goods that have already arrived in China, provided that it can be proven that the goods left the country before the outbreak of footand-mouth disease (FMD) in January, which can be guaranteed in almost all cases. It may still be necessary to test the goods for the pathogen. It seems very likely that corresponding instructions will be issued by Beijing to port authorities at the beginning of April. More recent cases of FMD that have occurred in Hungary and Slovakia are of course not making the talks and negotiations any easier. We can only hope that the spread of the disease can be stopped quickly and that other countries and regions will not be affected.
Business has been rather quiet again this week. It seems that slaughter in Germany is unevenly distributed. While the north and west are still producing very good quantities, there are reports from the south that the kill is significantly lower. This naturally means that certain types of hides are not available in the planned quantities, while others are available in too large quantities.
This affects precisely the hide types that are still in high demand, while the market for lighter cow hides is anything but easy at the moment. Of course, everyone involved is now trying to derive the best results for themselves. This in turn means that the correlations between the individual main prices are becoming less and less appropriate.
We are now waiting for new deals in Europe, which will have to be discussed again in the coming weeks. If the market in China and also in South Korea reopens in the next few weeks, this would take some pressure off the market and the detour of some hide types into the production of collagen could possibly turn around somewhat.
There has been little change in prices this week either; there were few deals to base price trends on.
The kill: As mentioned at the beginning, the kill was relatively normal in our region this week too. Just seasonally, the quantities should now be slowly decreasing. With the Easter holidays approaching in mid-April, farmers are also starting to think about how many cattle they want to put out to pasture again. The prices for cattle for slaughter and for calves remain very high. Per capita consumption of beef in Germany in 2024 has not changed, which is in stark contrast to the predictions of many.
What we expect: We are still not expecting any profound change in the market situation this week. The balancing of volumes and the situation regarding exports to Asia will be the
Ox/heifers
LATEST HIDE AND SKIN PRICES FROM GERMANY
determining factors for the coming weeks, which is why we must first wait and see how these two areas develop. Then everyone will have to come back to the table to negotiate and argue about the next set of prices and further developments.
LONG READ
Leather and the Circular Economy: Circular Stories France’s future
The president of Alliance France Cuir confirms that changes in farming in France may have wide- ranging consequences for the whole of the leather sector there.
Following our analysis in World Leather December 2024- January 2025 of the effects on the luxury leathergoods sector of a drop in the supply of calfskins, Christophe Dehard, has pointed to wider changes in raw material supply. Mr Dehard, the president of industry body Alliance France Cuir, says developments upstream in the supply chain are going to affect the whole industry in France and that tanners are going to have to adapt.
Speaking recently to specialist fashion media, he said that what is happening upstream in the supply chain, as the agricultural sector develops, will inevitably have consequences for the leather industry. The range of cattle that farmers raise in the green fields of France will be different, he says. More of the animals in the national herd of 16.3 million head (at the start of 2024) will be from dairy breeds, while the proportion of beef cattle will go down.
Overall, numbers have fallen; 30 years ago, France’s cattle population was 20.5 million head. However, the proportion of dairy cattle in the total has remained steady at between 40% and 42%, according to figures published by the country’s national association of cattle
farmers. “We are going to see the dairy herd dominate the figures more and more,” Mr Dehard says, “and beef cattle will no longer be the bigger proportion. And what this will mean is a real change in the raw material we have to work with.”
Change matters
It may not be obvious to outside observers, he suggests, but this change matters because hide type determines the suitability of leather for particular market segments. Leathergoods factories are expanding in France. Hermes had eight facilities for producing bags in 2010. In 2024, the total increased to 23 factories, spread across nine regions of the country. It may become less likely that some of the leather from tanneries in France will be suitable for use in these factories. It may be that, in future, a larger volume of this leather is more suitable for shoe or furniture production instead.
“All of this will mean that leather manufacturers here will become more and
more dependent on sales in export markets,” the president of Alliance France Cuir says. “And, in the background, our tanners will have to evolve too if they are no longer able to source the raw material they are used to. There will be change across the whole value chain.”
Specific requirements
He raises doubts about the future of France’s standing in the global market for leather. He points out that the focus there has tended to be on high-end customers, while producers in other parts of the world have manufactured leather that he describes as being more suited to day-to-day use.
He explains: “Our customers in the luxury sector have very specific requirements and want to source leather from calfskins or from select cattle hides. We continue to make this leather in France and we always will, but perhaps in the future it will not be in high enough volumes to meet all of the luxury sector’s needs.”
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In addition to this, tanners will need to make up their production volumes with other materials. And if what they have to work with is more and more black-and-white hides from, say, Holstein-Friesian dairy cows, Mr Dehard says it may become difficult to sell all the resulting finished leather in the markets the industry in France serves at the moment. “We will have to try to export the leather we make from that material and hope to get a good price for it,” he suggests.
Ready to respond
High environmental and traceability standards provide a source of optimism. The president of Alliance France Cuir says the industry there began investing heavily in sustainability and in traceability a decade ago, and did so from choice. “We were not under pressure to do this when we did it, but what we have in place as a result puts us in a good position to respond to the requirements that exist now,” he observes, insisting that these high standards and a focus on quality are what can keep leather from France at the top of the pile.
He adds: “We certainly won’t be able to compete on volume because France’s weekly cattle slaughter is 42,000 head, much lower than in the US or Australia. Volumes in Asia are increasing too, especially in China. China has imported European cattle, including French breeds, and it is developing its cattle herd. In terms of volume, we are a small player. And if cattle breeds are the same the world over, the hides on offer from all these places will be similar. Therefore, it is on quality that we must compete.”
Open dialogue
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To keep quality standards high, he thinks more dialogue and co-operation among suppliers and buyers at all stages of the supply chain is going to become a necessity. “One of the real challenges we face is that we are all going to have to get to know one another much better,” he explains, “because the leather industry is not just the companies that make and use leather. You cannot separate leather production from meat production, and you cannot separate either of those from cattle farming. We are going to have to understand each other better than we do at the moment. The same word can mean different things at different stages of the production chain, so we have to learn to interpret each other’s vocabulary and understand each other’s needs.”
There is already a meeting point for these different industries, the abattoir. But Christophe Dehard’s view is that good conversations are going to have to take place at all stages of production. It has taken a decade for some platforms for dialogue to get going and these are becoming more commonplace, he accepts. For the most part, though, these conversations have taken place in the private domain and he wants something much more open to develop, for the good of all the players involved.
NEWS ROUND-UP
Leather Days keynote to focus on Livestock in Material Flow Management
The 13th Freiberg Leather Days will take place on May 21–22, in Freiberg, Germany, at the Tivoli Freiberg conference hall.
The event will feature 24 specialist lectures delivered by speakers from nine countries.
This year’s keynote address, “Livestock as a Value-Adding Component in Regional Material Flow Management,” will be presented by Professor Peter Heck of Trier University of Applied Sciences, Germany.
Following the first day’s lecture programme, attendees can join a guided tour of Freiberg Cathedral, including a performance on the historic Silbermann organ. The evening will conclude with a group dinner at Freiberg Brauhof.
Registration for the event is open at the FILK website.
World Leather Day set for April Leather
Naturally has announced that World Leather Day 2025 will be held on Saturday, April 26.
This year’s theme, Beyond the Surface, encourages a deeper understanding of leather while addressing common misconceptions.
Launched in 2022, the global initiative is supported by manufacturers, traders, brands, retailers, and leather craftsmen to promote awareness of the industry and its sustainability.
The Beyond the Surface campaign will highlight leather’s role in the circular economy, its durability and repairability, and its long lifespan compared to synthetic alternatives.
To learn more about the initiative, further information can be found on the Leather Naturally website.
Co-founder reappointed CEO of Spinnova
Fibre
developer Spinnova has announced that co-founder Dr Janne Poranen has resumed the role of chief executive.
Dr Poranen was Spinnova’s first chief executive when the company launched in 2014 as a spin-off from the VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland and remained in the role until 2022, when an external chief executive, Kim Poulsen, joined. Janne Poranen became its executive chairman.
A few months later, Kim Poulsen left and chief finance officer, Ben Selby, became interim chief executive.
At the end of 2023, Tuomas Oijala joined as Mr Poulsen’s permanent replacement in the role, but in mid-March this year, Spinnova announced that Mr Oijala, too, was moving on, although he will stay with the company until September.
Corporate governance in Finland usually recommends a separation of the roles of chief executive and chair of a company, but Spinnova said it had decided to deviate from
this recommendation owing to the development stage the company is at now.
In February, major Brazilian partner Suzano announced it would not invest in the next steps of its proposed collaboration with Spinnova.
On confirming his reappointment as chief executive, Dr Poranen said: “Suzano’s decision not to invest in the next steps was disappointing, but it also opens new opportunities. I’m very motivated to lead Spinnova and to build its future in this new situation.”
He explained that the company’s top priority would be making production of its fibres cost-effective for industrial scaling.
Massimo Boldrini leads Italian tanning consortium
TheItalian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium has announced the election of Massimo Boldrini (Conceria La Perla Azzurra) as its new President for the 2025-2027 term. The appointment was confirmed during the
QUAKER COLOR A STEP
AHEAD
IN AUTOMOTIVE FINISHING
General Assembly of Members on February 20, 2025.
Supporting Mr Boldrini in his leadership, Paolo Testi (Conceria La Bretagna) and Manuel Casella (Conceria Puccini) have been appointed as Vice Presidents.
The newly elected Board of Directors comprises:
Michele Battaglia (Silvateam S.p.A.)
Stefano Pinori (Figli di Guido Lapi S.P.A.)
Maurizio Conti (Conceria Monteverdi Srl)
Paolo Quagli (Italpel)
Martina Squarcini (Conceria Il Ponte)
Simone Remi (Badalassi Carlo)
Leonardo Volpi (Volpi Concerie)
In his statement, Mr Boldrini extended his gratitude to outgoing President Leonardo Volpi, who served for two terms with dedication and professionalism. He highlighted the importance of vegetable tanning, describing it as more than just a technique—rather, a cultural identity and a
Supplying
innovative finishes to the automotive industry for over six decades
Quaker Color is a division of McAdoo & Allen, with roots in the leather industry for over a century
deep-rooted tradition that connects to the territory. The Consortium, he affirmed, will continue to safeguard, communicate, and promote vegetable tanning as a symbol of authenticity and craftsmanship.
The Consortium's General Assembly is composed of 18 associated tanneries, including Artigiano del Cuoio, Badalassi Carlo, Conceria La Bretagna, Conceria Walpier, Conceria Il Ponte, Italpel, Conceria Tempesti, and Volpi Concerie, among others.
Event celebrates tanners’ influence on Tuscan culture
Tanners in Santa Croce have taken part in an event that celebrates the leather industry’s impact on the “cultural evolution” of the area.
Assoconciatori president Riccardo Bandini said it “represented an important opportunity to highlight the role of the tanning industry in the cultural and artistic evolution of our territory”.
He added: “The history of Tuscan tanneries is intertwined with that of our cultural
heritage of which the tanning industry represents excellence… blending tradition and modernity in a model of sustainable business.”
The initiative ‘Tanning art: cultural initiative’ was supported by the Tanners’ Association and Tanners’ Consortium of Ponte a Egola; the San Miniato Promotion Foundation; and the Order of Architects, Planners, Landscapers and Conservationists of the Province of Pisa; with the support of Gruppo Conciario CMC International, La Patrie, Dermacolor and Chianti Banca.
Leather UK launches repair tie-up with charity shops
Industry body Leather UK has launched a ‘repair and restore’ collaboration with charity shops and leather restorers, aimed at breathing new life into donated leathergoods.
Restorations have been carried out by Leather Repair Company its Hull workshop and Mulberry, whose artisans rejuvenated a Somerset Tote at their Lifetime Service Centre at The Rookery, one of its carbon neutral
Somerset factories.
The bags have been returned to the Mary's Living and Giving shop in Chiswick, London, where they were donated.
The initiative is designed to demonstrate to shoppers that with a little bit of TLC, the innate properties of leather mean that wellused or tired-looking leather products can be readily refurbished and restored.
Bags repaired will carry the ‘Leather for Life’ swing tag - Leather UK’s labelling initiative for British leather goods that provides consumers information about leather, including facts about how leather is produced and its status as a by-product of the food industry.
Dr Kerry Senior, director at Leather UK, said: “Leather is a natural and durable material that, when properly cared for, can last a lifetime, embodying the core values of slow fashion. Unlike ultra-processed materials such as plastic-based leather alternatives, which will deteriorate over time, leather ages beautifully, developing a patina that tells the unique story of each bag. This collaboration demonstrates the role leather plays in a more sustainable future by encouraging consumers to make more considered and sustainable choices.”
France maintains strong position in global leather trade
France remains a key player in the global leather industry, ranking as the 4th largest exporter and 3rd largest importer in 2023, according to data from the Observatoire Économique de l'Alliance France Cuir. French exports accounted for 6.4% of global trade, while imports represented 6.0% of the market.
The report highlights China's continued dominance in leather exports, with Italy and Vietnam also maintaining strong positions. Vietnam and Indonesia have seen growth in footwear exports, while European countries, including France, remain key hubs for highvalue leather products.
The data also reflects shifting global trade dynamics, with supply chains linking Europe, Asia, and the Americas. The full report provides insights into raw hides, tanned leather, footwear, and leather accessories trade patterns.
Investment in Italian shoe producer is a natural move, Chanel says
Luxury
brand Chanel has confirmed its acquisition of a majority stake in footwear manufacturer Grey Mer.
Based in the famous footwearmanufacturing town of San Mauro Pascoli in Emilia-Romagna in Italy, Grey Mer has been making high-end footwear for almost 45 years.
It has been working with Chanel for 13 years, producing shoe collections designed by the brand. Chanel said its partner company had built up “exceptional know-how” and was committed to ongoing innovation so as to be able to respond to the needs of its customers. It said it had invested in Grey Mer “out of the need to guarantee its production
capacity”. The footwear company’s founding family, the Alessandri family, will retain the remaining 30% of its capital.
“It is natural for Chanel to want to invest more actively alongside this trusted partner, so that we can write a new chapter in its history,” the luxury group said.
Chanel has been steadily investing in tanneries and finished product manufacturers in Italy and France for more than 10 years.
Tod’s extends blockchain to tell shoes’ stories
Italian footwear brand Tod’s has expanded its Digital Product Passport offering to include the My Gommino shoe, in collaboration with Aura Blockchain Consortium.
A chip containing information on the origin of materials, production processes and compliance, as well as aspects of quality and sustainability, is integrated into the right sole.
Consumers can also learn stories of the artisans behind each pair.
Tod’s first offered the service with its Di Bag, saying it reaffirms the commitment to providing customers with greater traceability and authenticity.
In 2021, LVMH, Prada and Cartier joined forces to develop the Aura Blockchain Consortium, which they described as the world’s first global luxury blockchain.
Two replacements for Jonathan Anderson at
Loewe
Thefounders of New York-based brand Proenza Schouler, Jack McCollough and Lázaro Hernández, will replace Jonathan Anderson as creative directors of leathergoods brand Loewe.
On confirming the appointment, Loewe said the pair had played a fundamental role in defining modern fashion, with designs based in “a rigorous exploration of craftsmanship, filtered through artistic sensitivity”.
It said this was in keeping with Loewe’s values.
Tannery shares figures to celebrate World Recycling Day
To mark World Recycling Day on March 18, French sheepskin tannery Raynaud Jeune shared details of the recycling programme that it has put in place.
Operations at the company’s tannery, in Rouairoux in the Tarn department in southern France, generate 80 tonnes of fleshing waste each year. Rather than consider this material as waste, Raynaud Jeune now processes it into nutrient-rich fertiliser, which it says is contributing to sustainable agriculture.
It is also able to recycle into fertiliser and compost around 500 tonnes of sludge that it collects each year during wastewater treatment.
Finally, it is contributing around 60 tonnes of leather offcuts per year to make materials for use in some aspects of footwear and accessories production. This prolongs the life of more of the leather it makes, Raynaud Jeune said.
Porsche to cut 4,000 jobs amid market challenges
Luxury car maker Porsche is set to reduce its workforce by nearly 10%, resulting in approximately 4,000 job losses. The automaker cites declining sales, U.S. tariffs, and global supply chain disruptions as key factors behind the decision.
A portion of the cuts will come from natural turnover, including retirements. However, the scale of the layoffs is larger than previously anticipated. Earlier reports suggested Porsche planned to cut 1,900 jobs in Germany, but the latest figures indicate a more significant reduction.
Finance and IT chief Jochen Breckner acknowledged the impact of tariffs, stating they cause "sleepless nights" for the company. In addition to direct layoffs, Porsche will not renew over 2,000 fixed-term contracts over the next four years.
Shoe division brings 7% growth for Inditex and partners
The footwear division of fashion group
Inditex achieved sales revenues of ¤1.6 billion in 2024. The shoe manufacturing company, Tempe, is 50% owned by Inditex, and operated and 50% owned by specialist Elchebased footwear group, Promociones Azarbe. Revenues at Tempe rose by 7% in 2024 compared to the previous year. It constructs shoe collections that go on sale across Inditex brands, including Zara, Massimo Dutti, Stradivarius, Bershka and Pull and Bear. Tempe is in the middle of an important expansion of its logistics operations. Inditex purchased land covering almost 280,000 square-metres close to the port of Sagunto, north of Valencia, in 2019. In 2024, construction began on a new Tempe logistics centre there.
Slight increase for global car sales in 2024
In 2024, global car sales reached 74.6 million units, marking a 2.5% increase compared to 2023, according to the European Automobile Manufacturers Association (ACEA).
Although supply chain challenges
makes it natural
continued to ease, regional trends differed widely, with some markets experiencing strong growth and others facing declines.
Europe's car market grew by 3.9% in 2024, with total sales reaching 16.1 million units.
Car sales in North America recorded a 3.8% growth.
Passenger car sales in the South American region surpassed 3 million units in 2024, with total car sales increasing by 6.5%.
In Asia, Japanese car sales declined by 7% in 2024, impacted by the phased reduction of government subsidies and the persistent effects of a weak domestic currency.
With a strong recovery in the final quarter of 2024, Chinese car sales reached nearly 23 million units, marking a 2.6% year-over-year increase, largely benefiting from government tax incentives. Notably, China accounted for a third of global car sales.
Global car manufacturing totalled 75.5 million units, a slight 0.5% decline from the previous year. European car production
declined by 4.6% in 2024 to 14.4 million units.
In North America, production decreased by 3.2%, resulting in 11.4 million cars produced last year. South American car production rose by 1.7% compared to 2023.
Car production in Asia continued its upward trajectory in 2024, growing by 1.5% to nearly 46 million cars. This growth was primarily driven by China, which saw a robust 5.2% increase, further solidifying its position as the world’s largest car producer with a 35.4% market share.
In 2024, the export value of EU-made cars to the United States fell by 4.6%. The steepest decline was in China, with a 25.5% drop, due to rising competition from domestic vehicle manufacturers. Exports to Switzerland and Turkey also dropped by 9.9% and 7.6%, respectively. On the other hand, exports to the UK grew by 2%.
Despite the mixed picture, the US and the UK collectively account for nearly half of the
EU's new car exports in value.
Jonathan Anderson to leave Loewe
Madrid-based leathergoods brand Loewe has confirmed that its creative director, Jonathan Anderson is to leave after 11 years in the role.
Former chief executive of the fashion group at Loewe’s parent group, LVMH, Sidney Toledano, said he considered Jonathan Anderson to be one of the very best artistic directors of recent times.
“What he has contributed to Loewe goes beyond creativity,” Mr Toledano said. “He has built a rich and eclectic world, with strong foundations in craft, which will enable the house to thrive long after his departure.”
Eurofins introduces commodity chemical testing solution
Eurofins
Sustainability Services has introduced a commodity chemical testing service for the softlines industries, aiming to help manufacturers, brands, and retailers comply with new guidelines from the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme.
Commodity chemicals, widely used in textiles, leather, apparel, and footwear, pose challenges related to hazardous contamination, quality, and traceability.
In 2024, ZDHC released its first guideline for their use, but compliance testing has remained difficult due to complex analysis requirements.
Eurofins' new methodology aims to address these challenges by providing a scalable solution for detecting hazardous substances. The company has worked with ZDHC to ensure its approach meets regulatory requirements, using proprietary extraction techniques and a network of laboratories to facilitate testing.
ASIA
Pakistan reports growth in leathergoods exports
Pakistan's leather sector exhibited 7% growth in export revenue during the first eight months (July to February) of the 20242025 financial year.
According to data compiled by the Federal Bureau of Statistics, total revenue rose to $613.5 million. Increased exports of leather gloves and shoes primarily drove this growth.
Finished leather exports generated $90.1 million in the period, up from $88.4 million during the same period the year before.
Additionally, leather manufacturing exports, including garments and other goods, increased by 6.7%, to $396.9 million.
Footwear exports rose from $109.5 million to $126.4 million, demonstrating an increase of 15.5%.
Shoe exports up in volume for China, but values fall
footwear manufacturers there exported 9.2 billion pairs in 2024, bringing in revenues of $46.9 billion.
These figures represent an increase of 3.3% in volume, but a fall of 4.9% in value.
Imports of footwear in 2024 reached 200 million pairs in volume, up by 7.5% year on year, and brought in just under $6 billion in value, a fall of 0.7%.
Drilling down, CLIA said manufacturers in China had exported 550 million pairs of leather shoes and boots in 2024, earning revenues of $8.2 billion, down by 5.9% and 8.1%, respectively.
Imports of leather shoes amounted to 69 million pairs in quantity, and $2.9 billion in value, decreases by 5.5% and 0.9%, respectively, year on year.
Government advances PLI scheme for leather
The Indian government has informed the standing committee on commerce that the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme for the leather and footwear sector is at the draft Cabinet note stage, with an anticipated allocation of around $31.2 million as per Budget documents.
The FY26 Budget has also introduced a focus product scheme to support non-leather quality footwear production. It is expected to create 2.2 million jobs, generate around $4.8 trillion in turnover, and boost exports to around $132 billion.
The government is currently implementing the approximate $20.4 million Indian Footwear and Leather Development Programme (IFLDP) for 2021-26 through the Department for Promotion of Industry and Internal Trade.
China: imports of hides and leather went up in volume in 2024
The China Leather Industry Association (CLIA) has confirmed that tanners across the country imported a total of just under 1.5 million tonnes of raw hides and skins in 2024, an increase of 5.7% year on year. This material had a value of more than $1.3 billion, down by 0.5% compared to figures from 2023.
Imports of crust, wet blue and wet white reached a volume of almost 620,000 tonnes in 2024, costing tanners just over $1 billion. These figures represent an increase of 21% in the volume of semi-processed material that Chinese tanners imported last year and a rise of 14% in the value of that material, compared to the previous year.
Finished leather imports reached 43,000 tonnes in volume, up by 2.5% year on year, and $670 million in value, down by 2.2%.
Firm focus on high-quality shoes at Stella International
Footwear group Stella International has confirmed that its full-year revenues in 2024 reached more than $1.5 billion, coming from shipments of 53 million pairs. These figures represent growth of 3.5% in value and of 8.2% in volume.
Stella had already hinted at these figures, but has now confirmed them after releasing audited annual results on March 20.
Commenting on the prospects for this year, Stella International said it expected to face “macroeconomic headwinds and geopolitical uncertainties” in 2025. But it said it expects “a modest increase” in overall shipment volumes, with increases in the volume of shoes it will deliver to customers in the fashion and sports segments of its business.
“Our primary focus in 2025 will be maintaining high product-quality levels,” the group said. “We will continue to optimise our luxury and high-end fashion categories, and our non-sports manufacturing facilities will continue to operate at close to full utilisation.”
It will gradually ramp up production at new facilities in Indonesia and Bangladesh, it added, referring to this as part of a “controlled expansion” that aligns with a long-term strategy of increasing its capacity to make higher-margin shoes.
Construction of new Hung Fu tannery under way in Indonesia
Leather manufacturing group Hung Fu has hosted a ceremony to mark the breaking of the ground on a new facility in Indonesia.
Hung Fu has its roots in China and already runs a tannery in Vietnam, where it produces around 40 million square-feet of finished bovine leather per year. It supplies a large number of international footwear brands.
It is constructing its new facility, PT Hung Fu Leather Indonesia, near Cimanggu in West Java. The site will cover 30,000 square-metres.
Industry commentators in Indonesia have welcomed the development, saying PT Hung Fu Leather Indonesia’s use of advanced processes and technology will contribute significantly to the progress of the leather industry in the country.
China: 30-point plan to boost domestic consumer spending
China’s central government has announced a 30-point plan to boost domestic spending and consumption. The measures are part of a wider policy of encouraging Chinese consumers to spend more and save less.
Analysts at ING Bank said after the government’s announcement on March 16 that China has one of the highest savings rates in the world. They explained that millions of people in China feel the need to save a higher proportion of their incomes than consumers elsewhere because they feel the need to put money aside for retirement or for their children’s education.
The new plan seeks to address this by promising increased aid for students, increased pensions and improved health insurance.
ING said expanding middle-class consumption in particular is a key component of the plan. “The current consumption landscape still tends to be weighted towards either end of the scale,” the financial services provider commented. “Many products are on the low-price and low-quality side or on the
ultra-premium side.”
To address this, the plan mentions the need for Chinese companies to build “quality brands” and bring well made products to the domestic market. It also mentions expanding a trade-in programme for products such as cars.
Another aspect of boosting consumption will be to increase employees’ right to take annual leave at times of their choice throughout the year. This, observers have said, will boost travel and tourism, including shopping tourism, at times outside the major national holiday periods.
New space for Hermès in Indonesia
Luxury leathergoods brand Hermès has opened a new store in Jakarta’s Plaza Indonesia mall.
The store has bespoke geometric wood flooring in the section that displays the brand’s equestrian and leathergoods collections.
What Hermès calls its “shoe universe” sits within “serene enclaves” among its women’s and men’s ready-to-wear.
As in other stores it runs worldwide, the company has included artworks from the collection of its founder, Émile Hermès, as part of the décor in Jakarta.
AMERICAS
Trump’s latest tariffs rock automotive sector
US
President Donald Trump has said he will impose 25% tariffs on all cars and automotive parts imported into the US from the start of April.
Share prices of the big auto makers fell on the news. Volkswagen, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche and Continental lost $4.8 billion in combined market value on March 26, reported Reuters.
Almost half the cars sold in the US are imported, and some countries are now weighing retaliatory measures.
The tariffs could add thousands to the cost of a car in the US, it has been suggested.
Fimec 2025 strengthens global industry connections
Organisers of the 48th edition of Fimec, held in Novo Hamburgo, Brazil, reported signs of recovery in the international market after a challenging 2024. The event featured the Buyer Project, led by Assintecal through the Brazilian Materials program, in partnership with ApexBrasil.
Assintecal reported $2.15 million in direct business during the event, with projected sales reaching $12.4 million. Buyers from Argentina, Colombia, Ecuador, and Mexico met with 47 Brazilian companies, sourcing materials such as leathers, insoles, chemicals, heels, and soles.
Assintecal’s International Market Manager, Luiz Ribas Júnior, noted that the exchange rate had improved competitiveness for Brazilian suppliers. Buyers also showed interest
in sustainability and technological advancements in production.
Beyond the fair, buyers visited associated companies and Senai units in Novo Hamburgo and Estância Velha.
JBS reports a doubling of profit in 2024
Meatpacker and tannery owner JBS achieved record revenue of $ 77 billion in 2024, 6% higher than in 2023.
Its annual profit of $7.2 billion was more than double the previous year’s figure.
JBS CEO Gilberto Tomazoni commented that its beef, chicken and beef businesses were strong. He said: “These results reflect the strength of our global multi protein platform and the precision of our operational strategy, which enables us to capitalise on opportunities across varied market cycles and geographies.”
Investments during the year included $50 million in a new plant in Saudi Arabia, a AU$110 million in salmon farming at Huon Aquaculture's facility, a R$560 million investment in Dourados to double its pork processing capacity, and a R$150 million to double its production at the Campo Grande plant, transforming it into the largest beef plant in Latin America.
Study highlights potential for Brazilian footwear in Germany Germany, Europe’s largest economy with a GDP exceeding US$ 4.4 trillion, has been identified as a key market for Brazilian footwear exports.
A market study, Footwear Panorama –Germany, was developed under the Brazilian Footwear program, led by the Brazilian Association of Footwear Industries (Abicalçados) in partnership with the Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency (ApexBrasil).
According to Abicalçados' Market Intelligence Coordinator, Priscila Linck, the study examines opportunities for Brazilian footwear in a market largely dominated by Asian imports. "Germany is the world's second-largest footwear importer, purchasing over 355 million pairs annually at a cost of more than 10 billion euros. However, Brazil currently ranks only 27th among suppliers," she stated, citing sustainability-focused products as a potential growth area.
The study, available for free download, includes insights on per capita consumption, import prices, household spending, and key consumer regions.
Caleres reports 2024 financial decline
US shoe group Caleres reported a decline in sales for both the fourth quarter and full year 2024, while highlighting progress in strategic initiatives.
Fourth-quarter net sales fell 8.3% year-overyear to $639.2 million, with net earnings of $4.9 million, down from $55.8 million in 2023. The Famous Footwear segment saw a 9.6% sales decline, while the Brand Portfolio
segment dropped 7.2%. Full-year sales declined 3.4% to $2.72 billion, with net earnings of $107.3 million, compared to $171.4 million the previous year.
CEO Jay Schmidt noted market share gains in women’s fashion footwear and sneakers, along with continued investment in long-term growth. While taking a cautious outlook for 2025 due to inflation and tariffs, Caleres remains optimistic about brand performance, leadership changes, and its planned acquisition of Stuart Weitzman.
Minerva foods reports record quartlery earnings
Brazilian packer and tanning group Minerva has reported strong financial results for the fourth quarter of 2024 (4Q24). Free cash flow for the quarter was $172.5 million, bringing the 2024 total to $418.1 million.
EBITDA reached $164.4 million in 4Q24, up 56% year-on-year, with a full-year EBITDA of $540 million. Gross revenue for the quarter was $1.99 billion, a 76% increase from 4Q23, while full-year revenue rose 27% to $6.33 billion. Exports accounted for 58% of 2024 revenue, with the U.S. and China as key markets.
Net revenue for 4Q24 was $1.87 billion, up 74% from the previous year, while full-year net revenue totalled $5.94 billion.
Minerva’s net leverage ratio stood at 3.7x following its acquisition of Marfrig’s South American assets, which added 13 production plants and a distribution centre.
Charlie Chaplin’s ‘Little Tramp’ boots go for auction
Apair
of boots worn by Charlie Chaplin in The Great Dictator (1940) are set to go under the hammer at Propstore’s auction on March 26.
The footwear, associated with Chaplin’s iconic Little Tramp character, has a pre-sale estimate of $125,000–$250,000.
While it is possible that the boots were used in multiple Chaplin Studios productions, they have been screen-matched to The Great Dictator through distinctive sole cracking and leather creasing. Additional distress points on the left shoe align with production stills, making them among the earliest verified screen-matched costume pieces in film history.
The boots were preserved by Alfred Reeves, general manager of Chaplin Film Corporation, from 1918 to 1946 before becoming part of the collection of Ted and Betty Tetrick. In 1987, a decade after Chaplin’s death, they were sold at Christie’s as part of a Charlie Chaplin memorabilia auction that also included a bowler hat and cane.
Buckman acquired to expand innovation and growth
Pritzker
Private Capital (PPC) has signed a definitive agreement to acquire chemicals manufacturer Buckman, a family-owned company specialising in water treatment and industrial process solutions.
The investment, made alongside members
of the Buckman family and management, aims to accelerate growth, advance product innovation, and expand the company’s market reach.
Buckman, founded in 1945, operates six manufacturing hubs and serves customers in over 90 countries. Its leadership team, including CEO Junai Maharaj, will remain in place following the acquisition.
Robert Buckman, Chairman Emeritus and former CEO, expressed confidence in PPC’s ability to uphold the company’s legacy, while Maharaj highlighted the partnership as a key step in scaling operations and enhancing digital innovation. PPC Investment Partner Thomas Chadwick noted the potential for strategic acquisitions and further expansion.
The financial terms of the transaction were not disclosed. The deal is expected to close in the second quarter of 2025, subject to regulatory approvals.
Rag & Bone to push into leathergoods
Fashion
brand Guess and its brand management firm WHP Global have signed a five-year licensee partnership with Signal Brands to expand Rag & Bone’s handbags and leathergoods category.
Signal Brands manages a portfolio of fashion brands licenses for handbags, small leathergoods, luggage and travel accessories. Guess bought Rag &Bone in February 2024.
Paul Marciano, Guess co-founder and chief creative officer, said: “Signal has been a licensee of Guess since 1990, and we have now extended our partnership for another 15 years with the Guess brand for all the handbags around the world. We are confident that it will be a great addition to the world of Rag & Bone.”
The first collection launches this spring and will be available at Rag & Bone boutiques worldwide, online and at and premium retailers in North America.
AFRICA
Rwanda suspends levy on hides and skins exports
Rwanda has suspended the 80 percent development levy on raw hides and skins exported outside the East African Community (EAC) until November 2026. The decision, announced by the Ministry of Trade and Industry, aims to address stockpiling caused by limited regional market demand.
Reports in local media stated that the move is part of efforts to establish Rwanda’s leather industry and enhance value addition. The government has identified a 20-hectare site in Bugesera District for a tannery park and is mobilising funding for necessary infrastructure. Support from the African Development Bank (AfDB) will also strengthen local leather processing and training initiatives.
Economic analysts noted that the levy’s suspension is unlikely to impact government revenue significantly. Traders have reported
increased prices for hides and skins following the policy change, with further price growth expected.
Industry stakeholders have welcomed the decision, citing improved market access and potential job creation in the sector.
Uganda advances leather industry through vocational training
The president of Uganda, Yoweri Museveni, has reaffirmed his commitment to youth empowerment through vocational training, calling it key to Uganda’s economic transformation. Speaking at the commissioning of the Bunyoro Zonal Presidential Skilling Hub in Masindi District, he described the initiative as part of Africa’s industrial awakening.
Mr Museveni highlighted Uganda’s progress in leather production, noting the country’s shift from exporting raw hides to manufacturing leather products locally. He cited Kawumu Tannery Factory as a success, with the Bunyoro Skilling Hub now using locally processed leather to produce shoes. He also urged skilling hub administrators to expand training programmes to meet growing demand, reinforcing Uganda’s move towards self-sufficiency in industrial production.
OCEANIA
New research suggests overestimation of feedlot methane emissions
Findings from research funded by Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA) and the Australian Lot Feeders' Association (ALFA) suggest that the equation currently used by Australia’s National Greenhouse Gas Inventory to estimate methane emissions from feedlot cattle may significantly overstate actual emissions.
A study led by Professor Fran Cowley and Dr Amelia de Almeida from the University of New England assessed methane output using data from past research and a large-scale feeding trial. The study found that the widely used Moe and Tyrell (1979) equation overestimated emissions by an average factor of 2.4.
Researchers developed two new equations to improve accuracy, taking into account dietary components such as fat, fibre, and dry matter intake. Validation tests showed that the new equations significantly reduced the overestimation of methane output, from 115 g CH4 per day under the old model to just 6 g CH4 per day.
The findings could lead to a revision of Australia's greenhouse gas reporting methods and provide a more precise basis for research into methane reduction strategies in feedlot cattle.
New ICHSLTA president puts sustainability and transparency top of her list
The International Council of Hides, Skins, and Leather Traders Association (ICHSLTA)
has elected Micaela Topper as its new president.
Ms Topper is the executive manager of her family’s hide processing and export company, AI Topper. She has also worked extensively on sustainability on behalf of the Australian Hides, Skins and Leather Association (AHSLEA).
Her work at AHSLEA has also included completing an industry framework and roadmap, and education and communication strategies to drive change. She has also worked closely with key Australian cattle, meat and hide industry groups on traceability, with the aim of enabling greater transparency across supply chains.
After her election, she said: “I am honoured to serve as president of ICHSLTA. My focus will be on working closely with all industry stakeholders to address key challenges such as sustainability, traceability, and transparency. By fostering collaboration and open dialogue, we can drive positive change across the global
supply chain and ensure a robust future for our industry.”
Chen Zhanguang of the China Leather Industry Association and Nick Winters of the French Hides & Skins Federation were elected as vice-presidents of ICHSLTA, and Lénaïg Manéat will continue to manage the administration of the organisation.
