Marine Henrion

S C U B A S T Y L E

M A R I N E H E N R I O N M A N I P U L A T E S N E O P R E N E T O M A K E S P L A S H W I T H D E B U T C O L L E C T I O N

There is something inherently irresistible, inspiring, and addictive about places where humans are not supposed to be. From the polar ice caps to outer space to the depths of the ocean, unknown frontiers beckon us, as alluring as the sirens, to be explored, experienced, and conquered. Unsurprisingly, such frontiers have been a source of major artistic influence, from opera to ballet to music to sculpture. They have also had an indelible impact on the fashion industry, as thoroughly explored in FIT’s 2017 exhibition “Fashion from the Extreme. ” Demna Gvasalia designed couture expedition puffers. Alexander McQueen envisioned a fantastical collection based on Atlantis. And Pierre Cardin incorporated both the designs worn by actual astronauts and the imaginative imagery of 1960’s science fiction into his unique space cowboy looks. However, I have found that the literal ocean depths (sans mermaids and lost civilizations) have been traditionally underappreciated in the fashion world. Furthermore, while the fur of arctic explorers and the shiny thermally-insulated suits of astronauts have frequently been replicated and riffed on by designers, the neoprene essential to deep-sea exploration has been generally ignored: even by those seeking to evoke mysterious underwater imagery through their garments. That’s why Marine Henrion’s Autumn/Winter 2022 collection was so refreshing. Marine designs pragmatic and stylish looks produced 100% in France, and since founding her eponymous brand a year ago she has released a series of cohesive capsules with a distinctly modern feel. Her structured dresses are inspired by contemporary architecture; she has cited Zaha Hadid and Santiago Calatrava as two major influences. Indeed, in considering her Summer 2022 collection I could see the smooth curvature of Hadid’s Heydar Aliyev Center and Calatrava’s Dubai Expo Emirati Pavilion dancing across the minimalist black and white garments. The architectural theme remained for A/W 2023; however, it was the materials that stole the show. Henrion designed an innovative allneoprene collection inspired by scuba suits but repurposing their fabric in a new and elegant way. Neoprene, it was manifest, is a perfect medium for translating Henrion’s geometric vision. The Ivana Brassiere, an all-white garment anchored by eye-catching metal eyelets, was both athletic and feminine when paired with a neoprene skirt. A minimalist cropped jacket (two-toned in black and white, like the entire collection) was sophisticated in cut and daring in texture. And the Alexa “oversized coat, ” a broadshouldered behemoth adapted perfectly for the rain, wind, and light snow of a Parisian winter, brought Hadid and Calatrava together with Alexander Calder in a garment both durable and deceptively delicate. It was the perfect piece for street style in a late-February fashion week.

While this seems to be a one-off capsule from Henrion, the concept can be taken much further and I hope that the fashion world took note. Made of dive-ready neoprene as functional below the surface as it is stylish above it, Henrion’s garments can go straight from the depths of the Med to a Riviera beach club. Who knows? Maybe they can inspire a whole new après-dive culture.

S O U L O F G E O R G I A

F R O M D E N I M T O K N I T S , M A R O M A C O L L E C T I O N C E L E B R A T E S G E O R G I A N H E R I T A G E

I’ve closely followed the dynamic Georgian fashion scene for years and have been entranced with bags and knits emerging from the country’s young brands since I discovered Woyoyo in its inaugural year of 2017. Thus it was no surprise that Maroma Collection, in collaboration with Tbilisi-based concept store Chatsma, was a star at Tranoi Showroom’s A/W 2022 edition. Maroma first caught my eye with their elegant and oh-so-Georgian wooden bags, available in limited runs of cream, chocolate brown, and bright green and notable for their smooth “pebbled” texture. These were fittingly presented next to some of Woyoyo’s most popular products, knit bags ensconced with spherical wooden “scales” complete with wooden clasps and chains.

The knit theme was continued by the most colorful Maroma garments. Fantastically shaped wool sweaters were presented in the mustard yellow that is rapidly becoming a “color of the season” and a patchwork of reds, browns, and greens that recalled both harlequins and matadors. Most impressive were the simple yet sleek leather jackets offered in pure white and unique shades of red and pink. ‘ Proper and preppy, they could be paired with almost any of the Maroma or Woyou bags for a versatile look with both sophistication and a playful personality. Georgian heritage, from patterns to proverbs, is deeply embedded in Maroma’s identity and the collections it produces. A distressed jacket in black denim was emblazoned with sayings in the flowing Georgian alphabet. Another jacket was anchored by a pattern famously worn by one of the country’s most iconic ballerinas. Together the Maroma oeuvre links history and modernity in a selfassured way; it links components of some of my other favorite Tbiisi-based brands and brings “Georgia to the word” through designs that can complement a wide variety of styles.