Benjamin Benmoyal

FUTURISTIC NOSTALGIA

B E N J A M I N B E N M O Y A L G O E S B A C K T O T H E F U T U R E I N D R A M A T I C E C O - F R I E N D L Y C O L L E C T I O N

Wistfulness for the past and optimism for the future, as experienced from a perspective that eschews romanticism for critical reflection, have always been central to Benjamin Benmoyal’s work. The French-Israeli designer has a perspicacious worldview shaped by his unique set of experiences; he both went to fashion school at Central St. Martin’s and completed military service as a commando paratrooper. Since starting his brand in 2019 he has created designs that impart a certain sense of nostalgia; however, Benmoyal seeks not to return to a glorified past but instead to use its sentiments and lessons to build a sustainable and peaceful future.

Fittingly, Benmoyal’s debut collection was entitled “It Was Better Tomorrow. ” The collection featured dramatic silhouettes, radiant shades of blue, orange, and purple, and a revolutionary new material: a fabric based on recycled cassettes and VHS tapes. The vivid color palette and voluminous dresses have been noticeably toned down in recent years, evolving into more wearable garments and, I would posit, a more cohesive style. However, the fabric (a blend of the repurposed tapes, recycled yarn, and a wool fiber named Tencel) remains the same. It is Benmoyal’s DNA: modernity envisioned through a retro lens in a wholly unique manner.

Benmoyal eloquently described his philosophy on time, and how it influences his collections, in an interview with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode that was released on the first day of Fashion Week. “The idea of reusing the past as a tool is core to my work, ” he said. “But I’m super careful with nostalgia because we tend to idealize the past way too much…I don’t think we were doing better in the past than we are in the present. ” (As an example, Benmoyal emphasized the progress made in combating racism and sexism in recent decades). It is not the societal conditions of the past that inspire him; rather it is a certain mindset of optimism best epitomized by the generation of the 1960’s. “People in the past had a much better vision and a much more positive vision, ” he said. “I try to adopt this vision and use it for my own work. Being naive is not a bad thing nowadays. ” Benmoyal’s F/W 2022 collection was far from naive; however, it was defined by an elegant simplicity that made it both versatile and comfortable. Tan, cream, dark green, and earthy pink dominated an array of casual sweaters, t-shirts, hoodies and pants that hung gracefully if loosely off the body. The entire collection was reminiscent of nature, and not just because of the Capri-esque lemon and tulip motifs that danced across two of the sweaters. To me, this was a “salt-of-the-earth” desert wardrobe, blending in perfectly with sand, rock and brush. It felt lightweight and breathable enough to withstand the heat of the day yet substantive enough to be comfortable on surprisingly chilly winter nights (a phenomenon I discovered on a January trip to Sharm el Sheikh where the temperature dipped to 8 Celsius). Sharm, of course, shares a similar climate to Israel and is just a couple hundred kilometers away from the border. Whether intentionally or accidentally, this collection feels more inspired by and uniquely suited to Benmoyal’s native Israel than any of his previous work.

A/W 2022 also feels more restrained and focused than past years. The sparing use of color increases the power of said colors and it is small details that define the garments. Striped breast pockets turn neutral t-shirts into eye-catching statement pieces through the interplay of black, pink, and blue. Belts are artfully used to make jackets and pants appear playful. And the signature Benmoyal fringe, a powerful allusion to cassette tapes, injects a free-spirited youthfulness reminiscent of the 60’s.

In the FHCM interview, Benmoyal was asked what clothes make him feel most self-assured. He responded: “I don’t have any clothes that make me feel more self-assured but clothes can make me feel less self-assured…I just need to be comfortable. ” The collection distills the essence of that quote; it combines past, present, and future, while drawing inspiration from the earth we inhabit, to create an effortless and visually satisfying collection that is powerful without being bold. There is no specified target market here; these clothes transcend age, location, and occasion, and reflect a grounded designer who is becoming increasingly comfortable with sartorially expressing his inclusive vision for the world.