Word Vietnam August 2016 by Word Vietnam

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 8 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

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Contents Aug.2016

THE TALK 10 / On Deaf Ears

24 / Basketball Gets a Lift

A new league debuts in Vietnam

Time to get some ear plugs

INSIDER

11 / The Big Five

42 / The Many Faces of Vietnam

August in Vietnam

BRIEFINGS

An interview with hip-hop dance pioneer, Liont

12 / Lang Toi

44 / On the Night Market

An acclaimed production gets a residency in Hanoi

14 / Students Abroad

Young Vietnamese get everywhere these days

18 / Home of Hope

Helping the victims of trafficking

22 / Saigon Storytellers

Tales, fables and a touch of Aesop

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After dark at Long Bien

50 / Nguyen Hue

From canal to flower market to walking street

56 / Nightlife

96 / Weird Vietnamese Food in Hanoi

Know your goat testacles from your pig brains

102 / Top Eats Hanoi

This month: Rosemary Kitchen and Sandwicherie

104 / Banh Cuon Phu Ly

It’s not bun cha, but it could be

106/ Mystery Diner HCMC

‘Namo gets our reviewer’s eagle eye

108 / The Journey of Banh Duc Sometimes the simplest is the best

Vietnam after dark

EAT & DRINK 90 / Where to BYOB in Hanoi Getting drunk in unlikely places

108

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Contents Aug.2016

116

124

TRAVEL 110 / The Nuclear Missile Base

Pressing the button… It’s grey, by the way

116 / Luang Prabang

The jewel in the Laotian crown

124 / Destination Zero

130

144 / Bar Stool

150 / Medical Buff

146 / Coffee Cup

152 / A World of Good

154 / City Map

153 / Book Buff

HCMC 26 / To-Do List

180 / Know Your City FINAL SAY 184 / A Sharp Exit

Sofitel Luang Prabang

32 / Just In

128 / Destination Zero

156 / HCMC City Guide

Brexit, Vietnam and the backlash against tolerance

160 / Day Tripper

186 / Sound the Retreat

Novotel Suites Hanoi

130 / Notes from Another City Entry 7: Dalat

170 / Bar Stool

HANOI 34 / To-Do List

174 / Top Eats

38 / Just In

182 / City Map

134 / Hanoi City Guide

COLUMNS 140 / The Alchemist

138 / Day Tripper

142 / The Therapist

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Time to avoid Sapa and Halong Bay

188 / Ten 10

Event planner and Quest creative director, Mark Harris

112

CONTRIBUTORS

This month we asked our team to tell us about the best night out they’ve had in Vietnam HARRY HODGE Contributor I was hosting a travel show in Hanoi after being in Vietnam less than a month. It was the eve before Tet and I went to a family home with a camera crew and drank brandy with an older gentleman. I then went to Hoan Kiem Lake to watch the fireworks, and a guy standing next to me allowed his son to kick me in the head while sitting on his dad’s shoulders. I then went to Temple Bar in the Old Quarter and we got locked in when the owners pulled down the rolling doors and turned up the music. I had no idea I’d still be here 5.5 years later. SIAN KAVANAGH Staff Writer When I was visiting back in 2013, my best friend Deryn and I took on Bui Vien in our Cambodian elephant pants. The experience of plastic-stool hopping with strangers, sharing new and fascinating snacks, and staying up to the wee hours pushing the limits of our livers have left me particularly fond of that night out. Experiencing Saigon that way for the first time was thrilling. NICK ROSS Chief Editor Has to be a particular night a few years ago in Hanoi which went on until sunrise. Dinner followed by drinks followed by partying and late night at Phuc Tan before going back to someone’s apartment in a group and talking until dawn. One of those nights where everything clicked. JULIE VOLA Photo Editor Too many to pick one out. My first couple years in Hanoi were made up of a lot of parties, all great but I can’t really remember a particular one… MADS MONSEN Creative Director It was the 48-hour film project. Working as part of a team, seeing both the good and the ugly coming out throughout the night. Ending up with a real sense of camaraderie among those who stayed to the end. RODNEY HUGHES Staff Photographer It was the first night I arrived. The taxi ride from the airport to the hotel was an incredible experience. It was my first time in Asia and all the sights, sounds, traffic, and smells were intoxicating and exciting. JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer It’s a toss-up between screaming Spice Girls songs with 20 of my favourite women at a ladies-only karaoke party in Hanoi, or that time we did Tet in Phong Nha and everyone was shooting off fireworks and dancing around burning piles of tyres.

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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor nick@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager vy@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

JULIE VOLA Photo Editor julie@wordvietnam.com

BAO ZOAN Staff Photographer baozoan@wordvietnam.com

SIÂN KAVANAGH Staff Writer sian@wordvietnam.com

RODNEY HUGHES Staff Photographer rodney@wordvietnam.com

OWEN SALISBURY Staff Writer owen@wordvietnam.com

JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer (Hanoi) jesse@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

ADVERTISING TRINH BUI Sales Manager trinh@wordvietnam.com

CHAU GIANG Office Assistant giang@wordvietnam.com

DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com hai@wordvietnam.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.com hai@wordvietnam.com

For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244 Special thanks to Tuan Le from Lang Toi, Home for Hope, Hanoi Escape Picnic, Saigon Storytellers, Liont, Vo Duc Anh, Dan Bi Mong, Linh Nguyen, Dan Dockery, Trinh Lai, Brian Armstrong, Diana Bailey, James Dilday, Adam Palmeter, Tom McNulty, Josh Berrett, Khanh Linh, Kaza, Adrian Rodgers, Kore Todaka, Tuong from WindRunner, Seb from Rec Room, Billy Gray, Theo Lowenstein, Edward Dalton, Huyen Tran, Mano, Rosemary Kitchen and Sandwicherie, Vi Pham, Sofitel Luang Prabang, Novotel Suites Hanoi, Don Wills, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Bar +84, Boris Lopatin, Kafeville, Dr. Catherine Zapanta Gonzalez, Dana McNairn, Hoang Van Truong, Malt, Jake’s BBQ, Ed Haysom, Mark Harris and David Legard

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OWEN SALISBURY Staff Writer The best night was when I met my girlfriend. I’m sure it would have looked to outsiders like an ordinary first date, but she blew me away, and she’s continued to surprise me for the last five years. I’ve been in love before, but not like this... and while I can’t say I knew it then, I knew I’d met somebody very special.

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

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The

his month’s issue is our 104th. Add 12 issues of a publication that shall not be named before that and another 10 issues of Saigon Inside Out, and that makes 126 issues. That’s 126 months or 10-and-ahalf years of month in, month out, putting together something entertaining for you to take home and read and, we hope, enjoy. All of this hard work

at night. In bars, in restaurants, at music venues and festivals, between chats on small stools out on the street. To put this magazine together means working night and day, means meeting people, talking, learning, understanding, burning the midnight oil and most importantly, listening. It’s only through hearing what people have to say that we can try and make sense of things, and provide you with a snapshot of what’s going on. The word on the street, so to speak.

And much of that word is spoken at night. Nightlife makes this country tick. It makes this publication tick. It provides excitement, fun, conversation and an escape. This month’s issue is dedicated to this aspect of life in Vietnam. It’s something that makes living here unique, that separates this country from so many others, something for us to hold a torch for. If nightlife dies then so does the heart and soul of modern-day Vietnam. — Nick Ross, Chief Editor

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 8 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

ife

nightl

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Prelude

wouldn’t have been possible without what happens after dark, when the sun goes down and Vietnam comes out to play. In the media industry here, we don’t work like nine-to-fivers. We don’t do the drudgery of the daily slog or live to a timetable that’s measured by how many hours you put in during the day, how much content you churn out, and when you’ll next be able to take that annual holiday. Much of what we do, in fact much of what everyone does, happens

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THIS MONTH'S COVER Design by DH Advertising

Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

Inbox

July 2016, page 28 I’ve always said that [Ho Chi Minh City] is a good place for dental work. Even my friend’s dentist daughter from Singapore comes here to have her teeth done! But of course one needs to go to the more reputable dentists. — BT

The Water Puppet Village July 2016, page 54 Saw the water puppets in Hanoi yesterday and it was a great show — pleased to see the theatre was packed and they are running three to four shows a day. Really unique — BRL

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Clean and Green July 2016, page 10 The only way to keep Vietnam clean and green lies in enforcing Vietnamese law. Before the helmet law was passed and enforced, no one wore helmets. Now everyone wears helmets. If people break the law they have to be fined. Vietnam has a law about the dumping and burning of trash. But if this law is not enforced, no one will obey it. So damn simple. — PO

Talk Lead PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us at nick@ wordvietnam. com — we’re at your fingertips.

The Occidental Tourist

Clean and Green Finally there is a media focus on the environment

L Educate the young children at school, the message is largely lost on the generation of older people who are habitual rubbish drovers. — IS Not before time. The sight of piles of rotting, stinking rubbish on the sides of roads is a disgrace — MT

ast month the Ocean Cleanup project secured the required funding for its North Sea prototype test which is the first step in creating an ocean cleanup system. Spanning 100 metres and deployed 23km off the coast of The Hague for one year, the floating barrier will clean up debris in the sea while being monitored in all weather conditions, including gale-force winds and waves. It is hoped that by 2020 a 100 kmlong structure will be deployed between Hawaii and California; within 10 years the barrier is expected to clean up about half the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. That such attention is being paid to our seas, the largest trashcan in the world, is positive. But for the time being it’s not going to help Vietnam and other countries in this region. By not having the funds — or at present, the will — to invest or take part in such a project, we will fail to get much benefit. The problem, however, is not so much financial, but the understanding that we need to keep our country clean. And in Vietnam, without a financial imperative and with the government focusing on what it sees as bigger issues, it is difficult to see how much can be done.

The Seeds Yet there is hope. Whatever your thoughts about the dead fish debacle at the end of May,

one thing it did do was to bring the need to look after the environment into the limelight. But this is not the first time the environment has become a focus. The inaugural Clean Up Vietnam Day in midApril saw around 3,000 people getting involved in picking up trash around Ho Chi Minh City. The legacy continues with events like Saigonella teaming up with the Clean Up Vietnam organisers to promote the ideal — keep this country clean. More recently, Clean Up Hanoi has entered the media eye (see the article on page 18). Driven by Hanoi-based expat, James Kendall, the goal is simple; to get “the government and the people to work together to fix [the litter] problem.” Recognised by the chairman of Hanoi’s Municipal People’s Committee, and honoured with an official city pin, James has received phenomenal coverage in both local and international press. As we speak, Leave No Footprint Vietnam (facebook.com/LeaveNoFootprintVN) is garnering attention as Bob and his dog walk 1,700km from Saigon to Hanoi on an epic littercollecting journey. Picking up litter as he goes, Bob is holding clean-up events at beaches, villages and in towns and cities. The result, he hopes, is to get people who live outside the country’s big cities to understand the need and benefit of keeping their country clean. It is a result that the likes of Vietnam Sach

& Xanh (vietnamsachvaxanh.org) also hope for — for over three years the group has been holding similar events around the country. They have been featured extensively in both print and broadcast media in Vietnam.

A Generation All these initiatives are providing media coverage and education that not just tells people to keep Vietnam clean, but explains why it is something they should do. For someone who’s grown up in a country obsessed with keeping its streets clean — failing to pick up dog poop in the UK results in an on-the-spot £100 (VND3.25 million) fine — it is difficult for me to fathom why people in Vietnam don’t have the same obsession. Do they believe someone will do it for them? Do they just not care? Or do they not see why it’s important? Having spoken to a number of people about this, I believe it’s a mixture of all three; at present there is little emotional and rational connection between a clean Vietnam and the everyday person who needs to be responsible, at least in part, for keeping it clean. Fortunately, it seems, this is connection is starting to be made. It will take a generation to get Vietnam to appreciate the benefit of being clean and green. And it will take time before the likes of the Ocean Cleanup project reaches this country. But we’re now starting to see lift-off. — Nick Ross

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22 years ago when I first arrived in Vietnam, next to my office was a bomb crater. It was a breeding ground for mosquitos. For months I have been telling my Vietnamese directors to spray some diesel oil on it to stop the breeding. No action was taken so I did it myself. What I am trying to say is if you do not take responsibility of your environment, it will come back to bite you. — JJ

Clean air for your children

Clean air as it is meant to be: 78% nitrogen 21% oxygen 1% CO2 and noble gases and nothing else

Clean air is crucial for student success Did you know? According to the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America, respiratory illnesses are the most common cause of absenteeism, with asthma-related illnesses accounting for more than 14 million missed school days every year alone.

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Talk Lead On Deaf Ears Time to make some noise

n late June, our next-door neighbours started to rebuild. They own a nha nghi, a cheap guesthouse, and their first step was to raze the construction to the ground. It took a month. The dust and the noise was intolerable. But I was away, so it was my family who suffered with the pain. They weren’t happy, but not working nine to five and having time for a lunchtime siesta, it didn’t affect them so much. When I arrived back the work had stopped and all that was next to me was a flattened building. Our balcony overlooking the place was heaven. A cool breeze, shade in the afternoon, a nice place to work or relax. Then overnight it restarted. In the early hours of Saturday morning the piles arrived. The following day the sound of 15-metre long slabs of concrete being driven into the ground was intolerable. So, I popped the question. “Are you working tomorrow?” “Yes.” “What time?” “7am.” “7am? But it’s a Sunday. How will I be able to sleep?” “What, you’re asleep at 7am?” “On a Sunday, yes, of course. Every other day I’m awake, but on a Sunday I sleep in.” No answer. “Please don’t make any noise tomorrow morning.” Still no answer. “If you make noise I will la lon — shout at the top of my voice and cause trouble.” No answer, except that 10 minutes later they turned on the music. Vietnamese pop blasted loud into our house. And the next morning, bang on 7am the work started. As loud as can be. “Thong cam — please sympathize with us,”

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said the foreman again and again. “You should be sympathizing with me!” I shouted back. Once again I was ignored. Then I got angry.

To Accept and Not to Accept Like everyone living here I understand the way this country is changing; the expansion of the cities, the drive to bring Vietnam into the modern, developed world. It’s positive. It’s needed. It’s necessary. So, I understand the need to build — to build out and to build high. I also understand how noise levels are high here. This is a noisy country. What I find hard to accept is the lack of concern for residents, the people affected by the noise and the debris of construction. Everyone says, “phai chieu — just accept it!” But why should we? It’s wrong. And it’s not my ‘this is how it works in the West’ mentality that says it’s wrong. Vietnam has strong, employee-friendly labour laws. Terminating a contract, for example, requires either redundancy for economic reasons or a system of two written warnings in the space of a month if the employee doesn’t fulfil their work according to the terms of the contract. You can’t just fire someone on the spot. Yet when it comes to legislation to protect the rights of the resident, there is almost nothing. It requires a disaster for anything to be done. Many years ago I lived in an apartment block in District 1. Next door a new office block was being built. Deliveries of construction materials took place every evening after 9pm. Then the workers would continue throughout the night. We complained, we shouted, someone threw rocks, but nothing could be done. It was only when the bottom apartment

in our block began sinking into the ground and cracks appeared in the holding walls that the tide changed. The police got involved, the story hit the press, the TV cameras turned up and the building work came to an abrupt halt. All the residents were evacuated, and for the week we had to spend living elsewhere, we received compensation — VND12 million per household. After that the construction company were much more careful with their work. No overnight shifts. And certainly nothing that affected the residents next door.

Unplugged One friend, a resident at Estella in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2, has found his own way to combat the noise. His apartment lies directly opposite the construction of two new tower blocks. “I told my landlord that if he didn’t reduce the rent, I would have to move,” he says. “The landlord said no. So I created a spreadsheet and showed the landlord how much money he would lose if the apartment remained empty. I also explained how impossible it would be to find a new tenant. Eventually he reduced the rent.” “So how do you deal with the noise?” “I bought special earplugs from France. So when I’m at home, I have them in all the time. That way I don’t hear anything.” We’re now doing something about the inconvenience of the building work next door. Maybe we’ll move, maybe we’ll see if the local authorities can get involved, maybe we’ll try and get the landlord to reduce our rent. Or maybe, as I've been told, just accept it. But our chances of the building being constructed with a modicum of respect for the people living next door is slim. That is wrong. — Nick Ross

Big5 The

Performance, beer, Viet Pride, and the odd story or two. This month’s top events

The performance Lang Toi will charm audiences throughout August

Lang Toi

Hanoi Opera House, Hanoi Every Monday and Tuesday in August A delicate combination of tradition and innovation, the theatre production Lang Toi or My Village in English will be performed every Monday and Tuesday night this August at the Hanoi Opera House. Presenting the poetic beauty of Vietnamese village life through the use of physical, circus-style theatre bamboo poles and 20 folk instruments played live, the performers create a constantly moving and changing architecture of life in a traditional Vietnamese village. For more information, see our article on Lang Toi on page 12

Young Virtuosi Vol. 3

Conservatory of Music, HCMC Thursday, Aug. 18 After a week of intensive training with Saigon Chamber Music and four internationally acclaimed musicians, 31 young Asian musicians will perform as part of the Young Virtuosi. Come and watch the next generation of classical music talent dazzle you with their energy, talent and charm. The concert starts at 7pm on Thursday Aug. 18 and the HCMC Conservatory of Music is at 112 Nguyen Du, Q1, HCMC. Ticket prices

Prices are VND100,000 at the door, and include a draft beer. To see our article on Storytelling Saigon, turn to page 22

start at VND100,000. For info click on saigonchambermusic.com

Viet Pride Central Hanoi Aug. 18 to Aug. 21

Saigon Outcast, HCMC Saturday, Aug. 27

The fifth annual Viet Pride returns to Hanoi with a four-day schedule that includes speed dating, film screenings, talks, workshops, a rally and naturally, a party or two. Put together in cooperation with numerous civil rights and LGBTQ organisations, and supported by the Goethe-Institut and various embassies, the event will culminate with a Pride rally on Sunday Aug. 21. Starting at 9am at Giang Vo Lake, hundreds of cyclists will pedal their way to the American Club (19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi) where they will be greeted with a community fair and a party. To see the full schedule, click on vietpride.info

Craft Beer Festival

Storytelling Saigon Koh Thai, HCMC Thursday, Aug. 25

Stories. They’re the glue that holds movies, TV, comics, novels, short stories, standup comedy and more together. A central part of human life, the second Saigon Storytellers event will take place at Koh Thai in Kumho Link (39 Le Duan, Q1, HCMC) from 8pm to 10pm on Aug. 25.

Saigon Outcast is hosting their latest edition of the Outcast Craft Beer Fest on Aug. 27. Starting at 3pm, beer-lovers can expect the presence of Saigon’s craft beer brewers who will be serving up crowd favourites, as well as a number of new beers just arrived on the scene. Beer, food, music, a climbing crate stacking competition, drinking gamesand lots of fun. For info go to facebook.com/ saigonoutcast. Saigon Outcast is at 118/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC

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Briefings Hanoi

Lang Toi An acrobatic, Vietnamese-styled ballet takes up residence in Hanoi

he Hanoi Opera House has welcomed home a dizzying display of modernistic acrobatics that jumps into the heart of centuries-old Vietnamese village life. With more than 300 performances in Europe since it premiered in 2009, Lang Toi, or My Village, is equal parts circus and ballet as it depicts the communalism of rural living to the backdrop of calming traditional music and high-octane acrobatics. “The message is of course about the country, especially about the creative ideas of development of

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working together,” says director Tuan Le, a 39-year-old Vietnamese immigrant to Germany. The performers’ grace is made stunning by their disregard for gravity. Actors hop off one another and onto the set as their colleagues toss objects from one dancer to the next, never missing a throw or hitting someone. The play is centred on its omnipresent bamboo poles, symbolic for their use in construction. Dancers rhythmically swing and pass the polls as they slowly build a structure over the course of the show.

“Through this bamboo we create a new technique, to create a new image and picture to this element,” explains Tuan.

Surreal Unlike many dance performances in the region, Lang Toi does away with bright, regal costumes and instead features simple peasants’ rags. These aren’t apsara dancers full of ceremonial pomp — Lang Toi’s acrobats bring chaos to the ballet which is as delightful as it is surreal. The focus on dark, ordinary objects — albeit carefully designed

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

— is an intriguing break from radiant colours. Rich emotions of spirituality, love and fear also predominate the generally speechless performance. The music blends instruments not often heard in modern Vietnam, including the dan moi mouth harp from the Central Highlands. Duc Minh, Lang Toi’s dan moi player, says he picked up the instrument in his youth in order to stand out from his peers. “It’s not in the normal Vietnamese education to play this kind of musical instrument,” he says, adding that he

was always attracted to the “exotic” instruments of his country’s heritage. With the old instruments long out of fashion for aspiring musicians in Vietnam, Minh says his infusion of traditional music has helped to modernise the local arts. “It’s becoming the excellence of modern trends and modern music, because people are trying to put into modern music different tastes and different touches,” he explains. While for the past seven years the show has toured the world to critical acclaim, director Tuan says it is a joy to be back in Hanoi for

the indefinite future. “We have never had a resident place in Vietnam until today, so it went on tour for several years and now it’s come back to where it started,” he says. — Bennett Murray Lang Toi is performed every Monday and Tuesday night at the Hanoi Opera House. Ticket prices vary depending on seating zones and start at VND630,000 per person rising to VND4 million for the VIP seats. For reservations email reservation@ luneproducton.com or go directly to the Hanoi Opera House Box Office at 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

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Briefings Students Abroad National

Vietnamese students are studying everywhere, these days, even places like Liverpool

ietnamese students are famous for their hard work. True to this country’s Confucian legacy, education remains an important aspect of life in contemporary Vietnam, from extracurricular activities to second and third languages. In July, Business Insider released a report stating that Vietnamese students are the only outliers from a low-income country to perform at the same level as students from rich countries on international tests, thanks to the productive education system. Many students, when they get to higher education, may choose to study abroad for their university Bachelors or Masters degree while also perfecting their second language. For these study-abroad locations, you can find Vietnamese students all over the

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world from New York to California in the US, to London, Shanghai or Seoul. But, what about some of the lesser-known study abroad destinations?

Long and Winding Road Liverpool, England is a city famed for many things; its two football clubs, a proud industrial history, The Beatles, and a large international community. However, Liverpool is only home to 1,500 Vietnamese nationals, with just one restaurant dedicated to pho. A large fraction of this population are students who chose this industrial, port city in which to study English. So, why Liverpool? Minh Pham (name changed) moved to the UK with her husband four-and-a-half years ago to study for a PhD and the couple plan to

move back to Ho Chi Minh City at the end of their studies. “I love the weather most, compared to the tropical climate,” admits Minh. “The local people are also friendly and helpful. I feel I have more freedom here to be who I am.” With most Vietnamese students staying in Liverpool for the duration of their studies, the Vietnamese student community is constantly in flux with people arriving and leaving every couple of months. “Even so, they are easy-going, open and friendly, some are very good people.”

Penny Lane The draw of the city lies in the cheaper cost of living than London, where rent and transportation can amount to three times the price of that in Liverpool. There is

easy access to travel with an international airport, train station and major bus lines, which give all students the ability to explore spontaneously. There is not a lot of authentic Vietnamese cuisine or culture in Liverpool, even though the city is home to many other nationalities and communities, meaning that it offers a full immersion away from the comforts of Vietnam. But that can also be frustrating for many students, or at least cause occasional homesickness. Nguyen Huu is studying his MSc in marketing in Liverpool, however he chose this course to experience life in the UK. Most of his Vietnamese friends are also postgraduate students, and there are only about 15 of them in the school. “[Here] we have different groups of friends; those who

are British, Chinese and other international students from Indonesia, Honduras, Israel and India,” he says. “[However] I am special as I can make delicious food.”

Twist and Shout One of the reasons students may choose not to study in Liverpool is that the locals are notorious for their hard-to-understand accent and dialect, known as Scouse. This harsh accent can be extremely difficult for people speaking English as a second language, as it sounds like a whole new language itself. “With [Scouse speakers], I can’t understand them and whenever I talk to them, I have to ask them to repeat several times,” says Huu. But this hasn’t stopped him from branching out to other students

and members of the community. Mai Anh Dang from Hanoi is also studying her MSc in marketing at the University of Liverpool, and has lived there for nine months so far. “I really like living in Liverpool as this city is really peaceful and quiet compared to Hanoi. Life here goes at a slow pace. The locals are nice and friendly,” she says. “In addition, the expense of living in Liverpool is quite affordable for me.” What all three students agreed on was that the Liverpool experience was unique and outside of what they were used to or expecting. Will Liverpool ever become as popular with Vietnamese students as it has proved popular with students from China, India or even Mexico? Only time will tell. — Siân Kavanagh

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 15

Briefings Hanoi

The Red River Beaches Who needs the seaside when we’ve got the Red River?

t’s summer time, and though the beach is technically 200 kilometres away, we do have our own shores right here in the city limits. No, I’m not talking about West Lake — that’s far too easy, and way too toxic. I mean the muddy shores of the Red River. These ‘beaches’ aren’t easy to find. Julie and I set off first for a stretch of sand behind the Au Co Flower Market. There’s a dirt road that runs along the river basin, and a steep slope branches down to a bamboo bridge into farmland. This is a fun excursion; fields of basil, forests of banana trees, and friendly farmers abound. We may have gotten lost in the mud, we may not have found more than a foot of sand at the water’s edge, and we may have to take Julie’s bike to the shop now — but it was a nice escape from the urban sprawl.

Take Two Unsatisfied, we took a break to regroup over sandwiches. Maybe we were in the wrong stretch of river. We decided to hoof it down to the Vinh Thuy Bridge, where the water is wide and the shoreline is less crowded with vegetation. This drive was less taxing — cross to the north side of the river, hit the dyke road, and then head underneath the bridge to the flat grassy shore. A lovely spot for a picnic, and if you close your eyes, you can pretend the sound of traffic going by on the bridge is actually the ocean. Back in Tay Ho, there was one more spot we had been resisting, mostly because it cost money (VND50,000 per person), and it seemed too easy. But after all that sweating and cursing and pushing

our bike through the mud, we gave in. Bai Da Song Hong is a flower garden on the banks of the river, at the end of Au Co Alley 264. A smart business investment, they’ve monopolised a nice stretch of shoreline, throwing in flowers, wide green space, and a couple of floating docks. It’s a good spot for a drunk Saturday (or a hungover Sunday), and it would be peaceful, if it wasn’t for the steady beat of Vina-house they insist on blasting. Of course, the river is long, and there are lots of ‘beaches’ hiding out there. The sand is technically mud and you can’t see a foot into the murky water. But it’s a cleaner swim than the lakes provide, and a lovely way to cool down when you’ve overdosed on chlorine and don’t have time to leave the city. — Jesse Meadows

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 17

Charity of

the Month

Home of Hope A recovery centre for survivors of trafficking

his past Jul. 30 marked Vietnam’s first National Anti HumanTrafficking Day. This was aimed at raising awareness about the issue and involving the entire country in the efforts of working towards eliminating human trafficking. Human trafficking for sexual exploitation and forced labour is a large issue in Vietnam, as many women are removed from their families and home towns, promised jobs abroad and a consistent income for their family, only to be transported away and never heard from again. It is a hard issue to talk about, not only because of the painful subject matter, but also because the problem at hand is grossly underreported. This means even though we have the statistic that 4,500 Vietnamese people were

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trafficked in the past five years, according to Thanh Nien News, we can never know for certain how many lives have been affected.

Empowerment Home of Hope is a recently established residential recovery centre that offers a safe location close to Ho Chi Minh City for survivors of human trafficking. Founder Marie Watson has lived in Vietnam for six years, and has an international history of involvement in projects improving the lives of women. “This isn’t a long-term home,” says Marie, “This is the place where women can find themselves after what they’ve been through.” Marie, who is originally from northern Texas, US, and her husband Joel, have lived in many countries throughout their lives, but

were instantly drawn to Vietnam. During their time away from the US, they have found themselves involved in community development projects wherever they go, with Marie’s heart dedicated to helping train and empower women. “Our whole outlook on life and happiness revolves around people,” says Marie. “There are people who want to help by supporting the doers, and there are the doers who use what we have to help make change.” Home of Hope is the result of 18 months of hard work by a team of dedicated volunteers who have come together to help get the residence off its feet and ready to welcome trafficking survivors. At the home they offer a variety of courses to assist women in their recovery including: individual and group counselling, English

classes, job skills, sewing, sports, healthcare, finances and career guidance for their reintegration back into society. A key part of Marie’s projects is that they always include the local people, to help keep the efforts truly sustainable, in touch with local culture, and the needs of the people impacted. “We couldn’t achieve what we do without the support of the community,” she says.

Prevention Some similarly focused groups already exist in Vietnam, but Home of Hope is strategically located close to Ho Chi Minh City. The other programmes are operating on the borders with China, Cambodia and in Hanoi. For the future, Marie says, it is important to educate the community how to identify

and prevent being targeted by potential traffickers. “Many times the families of human trafficking victims not only know the person who takes them away, but also consider it a great opportunity,” says Marie. “They genuinely believe that it will bring respect and money to the family. However, they end up losing someone dear to them.” There have been cases of women who were lured into prostitution by their own best friends or sisters. There are many forms of trafficking. Though not complete, some common identifiers of trafficking include: — Being offered an amazing opportunity that would take them away from their town and family to a far-away country or city, by a stranger or acquaintance.

— Being approached by these people for a position instead of applying, especially if it is outside their current professional field. — Not having all of the details about the position, or only a very vague understanding about where they are going or the job waiting for them. — If all expenses are covered for a limited skills position. — If the person wants to control their passport or other travel documents. It is also important, Marie says, to stay aware of what is going on under our noses, know when to help, and always have hope. “We are here,” Marie says, when she makes contact to women who are trapped. “We see you, and we want to help.” — Siân Kavanagh For more information click on hopeunending.org

team behind House of Hope PHOTO PROVIDED BY HOME OF HOPE The wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 19

Briefings Hanoi

Hanoi Escape Picnic A weekend out for all the family

ocated around a peaceful and unpolluted lake in Gamuda city, Hanoi Escape Picnic was animated on our visit by live music, an energyfilled Zumba dancing competition and the possibility of some watersports. It’s a 30-minute drive from Tay Ho, and on the map, Gamuda city looks like it was built in a city suffering from rising sea level. The area around it has more lakes than it has land. Once inside, we were greeted with a laid-back and festive atmosphere. Around the lake were people practicing yoga and young couples relaxing in the shade. On the lake were people doing stand-up paddle boarding, a sport that originated in Hawaii as an alternative to surfing. At the heart of the site was a large

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stage protected (and shaded) by a circus-style tent. The event was sponsored by Tuborg and Coca-Cola so there was no shortage of drinks to choose from.

Live Entertainment An impressive flea market surrounding the stage hosted everything from hand-made crafts and independent clothing brands like Aokaie to home cooked food stuffs and even some Italian wine from the Warehouse. From 11am the stage was in high gear, and when bands weren’t performing, the atmosphere was kept alive by local DJs. By far the highlight on stage was an hour-long Zumba dancing competition complete with teams from each district of Hanoi.

Teams of around a dozen members — incorporating a range of costumes — led the dance on stage whilst the audience followed their lead. The whole atmosphere turned into one of pulsing energy as the hundreds of people moved in sync in the hot afternoon.

Family Friendly Apart from the stage, the event also provided several play areas for children and many of those attending were families. A campsite was set up alongside the lake for festival-goers to camp out the night before enjoying a second day of music and entertainment the following day. — Billy Gray The organisers of Hanoi Escape Picnic plan on repeating the event next year

PHOTOS BY THEO LOWENSTEIN

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 21

Briefings HCMC

Saigon Storytellers

eople live through stories. Whether written, oral or visual, they are entertainment, education, bonding, and even part of the construction of society and religion. Recent research even hints that narrative may be a critical part of consciousness itself. “Stories are an important component to human existence,” says James Dilday, the founder of Saigon Storytellers. “Stories quantify and qualify the human condition. The human brain operates through association. Storytelling seems to us the embodiment of association.” For James, stories and performance are

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what he loves. James — who has done standup comedy for six years under the stage name Steve Jackson — founded Saigon Storytellers to raise the art and craft of storytelling in Ho Chi Minh city to a higher plane, and to teach all comers how to tell interesting and effective stories to audiences of hundreds. The group had its first show on Jun. 7 at La Fenetre Soleil on Ly Tu Trong before a packed house. Though some kinks needed working out, the show offered humour, pathos, inspiration and education from local, expat and international performers such as the multitalented Emily Navarra, LA-based comic Bert Terplinsky and of course James himself.

Based on audience reactions, the eclectic mix succeeded.

Write, Speak, Share Though similar to stand-up, storytelling is somewhat new territory for James. “Standup comedy’s goal is to elicit laughter. Storytelling’s goal is to share,” he says. “I went to Adam Palmeter’s Broken Rice open-mic comedy night and told a story from my childhood and afterwards people came up to me and let me know how appreciative they were of me discussing things that were important to them in both an honest and entertaining way. The next

Saigon Storytellers’ mission is to help you understand and overcome that fear — the same fear that James himself, of course, had to overcome to become a comic.

Stories Are Human Now he hopes to share what he’s learned — not just with expats, but with the many locals who have come to the show and the workshops. “While there appear to be several differences in how various cultures tell stories, we believe that those differences are superficial. Deep down, stories are human, just like we all are.”

Saigon Storytellers’ second show will be on Aug. 25 at Koh Thai Restaurant & Cocktail Lounge in Kumho Asiana Plaza. VND100,000 gets you admission and a frosty mug of the finest lager. The line-up isn’t finalized, so if you are interested in sharing a story with a couple of hundred strangers, sign up via Facebook for Saigon Storytellers’ free workshops. Who knows? You just might be the next story-telling superstar. — Owen Salisbury If you are interested in joining Saigon Storytellers’ free workshops, click on facebook. com/groups/storytellingsaigon. The page also has details about future shows

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 23

PHOTOS BY OWEN SALISBURY

day, I began putting together a community to increase local storytelling performances.” In addition to the performances, Saigon Storytellers offers anyone the chance to be a performer. The group puts on a series of free workshops about storytelling. The workshops teach the creation and writing of effective, interesting stories, and how to perform them in public. “Storytelling Saigon hopes to continue to develop, and promote the art form of storytelling in [this city],” says James. According to multiple studies over decades, more people fear public speaking than they do death. Part of

Sports Digest

Basketball Gets a Lift

With the arrival of the Vietnam Basketball Association (VBA), basketball is set to take flight in Vietnam. Words by Harry Hodge

or pro basketball in Vietnam, the Saigon Heat of the ASEAN Basketball League (ABL) used to be the only game in town. How things have changed. With the launch of the Vietnam Basketball Association (VBA) this August, Word had a chance to pick the brain of Heat coach Anthony Garbelotto ahead of the first regular season games. Of course,

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being the head coach of both the VBA and ABL versions of the Heat (and the Vietnamese national team), Garbelotto benefits from the growth of the sport nationwide to uncover new talent, as well as to look at prospects who could make the jump from the domestic league to the ABL. “David Arnold will be the headline player and we will have an American

import and a number of exciting new young players,” he says. The Heat’s players and coaches will be peppered throughout the VBA, notably with Heat assistant Dave Singleton relinquishing his ABL duties to skipper the Can Tho Catfish. Viet Kieu playmaker Tam Dinh will join the Heat’s To Trung. “Singleton will have them playing hard

The Teams

CAN THO CATFISH Owner: Nguyen Hoai Nam Coach: David Singleton Home Court: Can Tho Sporting Hall (Le Loi, Ninh Kieu, Can Tho)

SAIGON HEAT Owner: Nguyen Bao Hoang Coach: Anthony Garbelotto Home Court: CIS (Street 23, Q7, HCMC)

DANANG DRAGONS Owner: Le Hong Phuc Coach: Donte Hill Home Court: Quan Khu 5 (Hoang Cuong Bac, Danang)

American basketball player David Arnold is likely to be the star player for Saigon Heat in this year’s first edition of a national Vietnamese Basketball League

from the start,” says Garbelotto. The Ho Chi Minh City Wings will provide the Heat with a crosstown rivalry from the get-go, with Garbelotto pointing to Viet Kieu Justin Young as being one to watch. He adds that another Viet Kieu, Horace Nguyen, is an exciting young point guard headed for the Danang Dragons and they are likely to be a run-and-gun squad. In Hanoi, he says head coach Todd Purves provides a spark behind the bench, being a former ABL champion coach with NBA experience. The first regular season game will be on Aug. 6. Tickets can be purchased from Ticketbox. Each team has a Facebook account. For more info on the VBA, visit vba.vn or facebook.com/vba.vn

HANOI BUFFALOES Owner: Tran Trong Kien Coach: Todd Purves Home Court: Bach Khoa Stadium (40 Ta Quang Buu, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi)

HO CHI MINH CITY WINGS Owner: Tran Anh Tu Coach: Mika Turunen Home Court: Ho Xuan Huong Stadium (2 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3, HCMC)

Men Build Three Swimming Pools in Central Vietnam

Vietnamese Cyclist Heads for Switzerland

With VND80 million (US$3,600) between them, three Vietnamese men in the central province of Quang Ngai have constructed three swimming pools of about 300 square meters each, according to Tuoi Tre. An above-ground swimming pool of around 5.8 meters in diameter can often cost more than US$6,000. But Tran Anh Tuan, an engineer, Huynh Duc Linh, a gym teacher, and Nguyen Van Phuong, a swimming coach, have built three pools with half that amount, after seeing many students in the province die from drowning. During April alone, nine sixth-graders from the province drowned while swimming in a local river. Vietnam’s rate of child drowning is one of the highest in Asia. A recent World Health Organization survey found that 32 children in Vietnam die from drowning every day, with the number of child drownings per year as high as 11,665.

According to Vietnam News, young athlete Phan Hoang Thai has received an invitation from the World Cycling Centre (WCC) to take part in a training course in Switzerland. The Domesco Dong Thap cyclist will participate in the international programme from Aug. 6 to Oct. 20 at the centre in Aigle, which has hosted more than 1,000 trainees since its establishment in 2002. Thai is a cyclist with potential, having won a silver medal at the 23rd Asian Junior Cycling Championships in January. He also won six titles in the National Junior Cycling Championships’ individual and team events last month.

Vietnam to Send 23 Athletes to Olympics Swimmer Hoang Quy Phuoc has become the latest Vietnamese athlete to qualify for the 2016 Summer Olympic Games in Brazil writes Thanh Nien. The 23-year-old man will join 22 other athletes that Vietnam will send to Rio to compete in a number of sports including shooting, weightlifting, badminton and judo. Earlier this year, sports authorities said they expected to send only 15 athletes to the games. Vietnam has invested more than VND48 billion (US$2.1 million) in training its athletes for the Olympics, which will be held from Aug. 5 to Aug. 21 in Rio. It targets at least one medal.

Vietnam Bag Another Table Tennis Silver Nguyen Trung Kien and Dinh Thi Hue lost to Singaporean rivals in the final moments of the Southeast Asian Junior Table Tennis Championships’ U18 mixed doubles final in July, according to Vietnam News. The Vietnamese pair took a 2-1 lead and were leading 8-4 in the fourth set, seemingly set to win the first gold medal for Vietnam in the championship being held in Cambodia. However, their rivals levelled the result at 2-2 and went on to take the fifth set for victory. Kien and Hue pocketed the fourth silver for Vietnam at the championship. Vietnam lost all the four finals to players from Singapore.

s date p u d r Sen out you p or ab g grou @ in ry sportnt to har .com m e ev vietna word

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 25

ToDo list HCMC

Saigon Chamber Music 2016 kicks off with four acclaimed classical musicians flying into Vietnam

This month’s Canvas and Wine brings back the art of silk painting

Ian Blevins will be playing Obs on Aug. 12

Legendary DJ Bill Brewster will be playing Observatory on Aug. 5

Jack Savidge of UK band Friendly Fires (left) will be performing at Sub-Culture, the launch of Fred Perry in Vietnam

Summer at Vinspace means art, art and more art

Summer camps, brand launches, storytelling, painting and new EPs. August in Saigon

Vinspace Summer Camp

Sub-Culture

VinSpace, Q2 Until Aug. 26

Piu Piu, Q1 Friday, Aug. 4

VinSpace’s Summer Camp is up, running, and ready to keep brains and bodies engaged until the end of August. The world tour of creativity takes campers on a global adventure without ever leaving Thao Dien. The popular programme combines group activities, different mediums, and arts and crafts for fun filled learning every day. The camp runs Monday to Friday from 9am to 12pm until Aug. 26. VinSpace Studio is at 6 Le Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC. One day drop in price is VND690,000 and the weekly camp price is VND3,105,000. Several discounts are available. Email info@vinspace.com for info

Finally, we can dress like the British youth subculture of our choice with the first Fred Perry Authentic Shop in Vietnam… and the opening party has a lineup of local and international DJs to soundscape your head in. Featuring Jack Savidge of UK band Friendly Fires as well as a visual show by EMPYREAL (Singapore’s Amanda Tan) that will spectacle-ize your eyes, from 11pm to 4am on Aug. 4, Subculture Live is coming to Ho Chi Minh City. Get ready and get to Piu Piu bar for this all-night, all-fired-up event. Piu Piu is at 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1,

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HCMC. To register for the event click on fpvnsubculturelive.peatix.com

Bill Brewster Observatory, Q4 Friday, Aug. 5 International legend Bill Brewster is playing Observatory for one night only, offering Saigon music lovers an evening of underground electronic music. Bill Brewster has experience in the production, diffusion, delivery and documentation of electronic dance music culture for over three decades. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Doors open at 9pm and entrance is free before 10pm and VND150,000 thereafter

MAD HOUSE 2ND LOCATION IS NOW OPEN IN DISTRICT 7

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On Wings of Song Conservatory of Music, Q1 Thursday, Aug. 11 “On Wings of Song / Sweetheart, I carry you away / Away to the fields of the Ganges / Where I know the most beautiful place,” wrote German romantic poet Heinrich Heine. The opening event of Saigon Chamber Music 2016, On Wings of Song, is welcoming four internationally acclaimed artists into the festival faculty: Zoë Martlew (cello, UK), Sindri Lederer (violin, Germany), Juliet White-Smith (viola, US) Antonia Köster (piano, Germany). This playbill presented by the HCMC Conservatory promises to transport the audience from the

Baroque period through to the Romantics and straight to the 20th Century, through the power of music. On Wings of Song starts at 8pm on Thursday Aug. 11 at The HCMC Conservatory of Music at 112 Nguyen Du, Q1, HCMC. Ticket prices start at VND100,000. For more information please visit saigonchambermusic.com

Canvas and Wine VinSpace, Q2 Thursday, Aug. 11 One of Canvas and Wine’s more popular classes, customer demand has brought back Buffalo Silk Painting, a thorough grounding in the art

of Vietnamese silk painting, a chance for you to learn all the traditional methods for painting time-honoured scenes and figures like waterfalls, buffalo and people fishing. Get your paint on from 6.30pm to 9pm on Aug. 11. The cost is VND690,000 with 20 percent discounts for teachers and groups of for or more. VinSpace is at 6 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2. To learn more, call 0907 229846 or visit vinspace.com/canvas-and-wine

Ian Blevins Observatory, Q4 Friday, Aug. 12 Ian Blevins is coming to the Observatory Friday, Aug.

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ToDo list HCMC

What’s Left EP will be launched by HRBR this month

This year’s third editions of the Young Virtuosi will see 31 talented musicians perform at the Conservatory

DJs Nic Ford (pictured) and Andy Harper will launch their EP, Framing Device

Storytelling Saigon returns for its second edition

Ultra Trail Angkor will return in January, 2017

12, bringing the styles he’s been spinning out for the last decade while in residence at Ibiza’s hottest clubs — not to mention all his festival appearances and global tours. Blevins’ sleek style mark him out as a music-maker to watch out for. With support by Observatory cofounder and resident maestro Hibiya Line, it’s sure to be a show for the season. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Doors open at 9pm and entrance is free before 10pm and VND150,000 thereafter

What’s Left EP Launch 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Saturday, Aug. 13 The Observatory is once again the place to be, as HRBR presents the EP launch of What’s Left? featuring BAX, Marco Mei and Phuc Long. Come celebrate with the core partiers and scenester DJs the release of this techno mini-epic. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Doors open at 9pm. Tickets are free before 10pm and cost VND100,000 thereafter. Price includes a limited edition version of the EP on CD.

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Young Virtuosi Vol. 3 Conservatory of Music, Q1 Thursday, Aug. 18 The grand finale concert for Saigon Chamber Music 2016 offers a programme of 31 talented young musicians from across Asia. After a week of intensive training with Saigon Chamber Music and internationally acclaimed artists, the musicians will perform as part of the Young Virtuosi. Come and watch the next generation of classical music talent dazzle you with their energy and charm. The concert starts at 7pm on Thursday Aug. 18 and the HCMC Conservatory of Music is at 112 Nguyen Du, Q1, HCMC. Ticket prices start at VND100,000. For more information click on saigonchambermusic.com

Madder Modes Launch Observatory, Q4 Friday, Aug. 19 MadderModes, the Mancunian master DJs Nic Ford and Andy Harper, are proud to release their new EP, Framing Device, on Aug. 19 at the Observatory. Four quality tracks of deep, intense and melodic techno are being

released on the Modelmaker label, and label mogul James What will attend the party, though sadly, Andy Harper won’t be there. Nic Ford has been an Observatory regular and Ho Chi Minh City resident for 7 years. For a preview of the EP, search for it on Soundcloud. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Doors open at 9pm and entrance is free before 10pm and VND150,000 thereafter

Storytelling Saigon Koh Thai, Q1 Thursday, Aug. 25 Stories. They’re the glue that holds movies, TV, comics, novels, short stories, standup comedy and more together. A central part of human life, local comedian Steve Jackson (whose real name is James Dilday) is putting together his second Saigon Storytellers event. The show runs from 8pm to 10pm at Koh Thai in Kumho Link (39 Le Duan, Q1, HCMC) Prices are VND100,000 at the door, and include a draft beer. More event details can be found at facebook.com/ events/1075606335833601. To see our article on Storytelling Saigon, turn to page xxx

Ultra Trail Angkor Siem Reap, Cambodia Jan. 20, 2017

After the success of their first run this past January, Ultra Trail Angkor is back for their second edition in 2017. Co-organised with Sport Development and Performance Organization (SDPO), the race will take place at the heart of the Cambodian Angkor Wat archeological site, crossing temples, navigating through jungles, and exploring the impressive landscape. For more information, visit ultratrailangkor.com or email ultratrail@ phoenixvoyages.com

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ToDo list HCMC

Fancy some minestrone soup anyone? Saigon Soup Company have you covered

Nam An Market has just opened a second store in Tan Binh

Anupa Boutique is now selling ao dais for girls aged two to nine

Newly launched Indotrek organizes adventure holidays for the adventurous in Indochina

Miyoshop is an online shopping portal for ethically made, beautifully designed products that you can purchase in Vietnam

Soup, a new park, more restaurants and adventure travel. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new in Saigon this month

Saigon Soup Company

Nam An Market

Ao Dais for Little Girls

Got sick and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to leave your bed to have a soup? Opened in June, Saigon Soup Company is specialising in soups delivered to your door through vietnammm.com. The menu offers many different soups including tomato, minestone, brococoli and blue cheese, bavarian potato bacon and basic drinks, such as sprite, diet coke and tiger beer. While soup starts at VND70,000 per bowl, drinks cost VND15,000 for a bottle of mineral water. Garlic bread is also available. Saigon Soup Company is at 33 Binh An, Q5, HCMC. For more info, please call 01267 390259

The well-known grocery store in District 2, Nam An Market, has opened a second location in Tan Binh. Selling a range of imported food and drink as well as fresh fruit and vegetables and a selection of vegetarian foods, throughout August both stores will be offering 10 percent off on all fresh fruit and veg. Nam An Market in District 2 is at 21 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC. The new store is at 303 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh, HCMC. For more info click on facebook.com/namanmarket or namanmarket.vn

Looking for a gift for the adorable little girl in your life? Anupa Boutique is the first place to try, with gorgeous ao dais starting at VND650,000. The range is available for two to nine-year-olds and is made by Pepite a Moi. The dresses are made in a traditional Vietnamese style using modern fabrics. Anupa Boutique is located at 9 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC. For more info click on anupa.net

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Indotrek Trails of Indochina, a longrunning, award-winning travel

5 agency is launching their new adventure brand: Indotrek. Whatever your budget, whether you dream of kayaking, trekking, climbing, abseiling, motorbiking or more, Indotrek can fashion an unforgettable, one-of-a-kind vacation that fits all your personal wishes. To learn more, visit indotrek.com, call (08) 3811 3388 or contact them at info@ indotrek.com.

MiyoShop Founded in 2015 by a pair of savvy French entrepreneurs, MiyoShop is an online showcase for a wide range of up-and-coming designers and their varied designs. With costs ranging from US$20 (VND450,000) to $250 (VND5.6 million), and collections including clothing, homeware, jewellery and accessories, their products are both international in style and utterly unique to their store. They are created in an ethical fashion, in short runs or even as one-of-a-kinds. Click on miyoshop.com to see whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s available

Just HCMC

Vinhomes answer to Central Park. Attractive, right?

Twenty21One serves up Western and pan-Asian cuisine

Vinhomes Central Park Ho Chi Minh City has just welcomed a new park called Vinhomes Central Park last month. Located in Binh Thanh District, the 14-hectare park has 40 sections including a Japanesestyled garden, a fountain, children’s playground and a picnic area. Inspired by the U.S’s iconic Central Park, the park is an investment of VND500 billion developed by Vingroup. The park is a part of an residential complex expectedly completed in 2017 with modern apartments, more than 70 villas and a Vincom Center. Vinhomes Central Park is at 720A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh

Twenty21One Located in Sila Urban Living apartment complex in District 3, Twenty21One is an all-day

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contemporary dining area focusing on Western and pan-Asian cuisine. Decked out in modern design with a tiled floor, wooden furnishings and heavy steel chairs and tables, this spacious restaurant has two levels — an upstairs mezzanine for private dining and a downstairs indoor area, an open-air streetside and a terrace next to the pool. The menu offers a wide range of food, from salads (VND135,000 for a Caesar Salad) and burgers (VND220,000 for a bacon cheese burger) to Vietnamese banh mi (VND200,000) and Thai Salad (VND205,000). Set lunch is also available at VND180,000, including a soup or a small salad and a main course. Twenty21One is at 21 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, HCMC Visit wenty21one. com for more info

After Tapas and wine lovers now have new venue to hang out in after work. Furnished with black wooden chairs and tables in a dark grey painted environment, After offers over 40 tapas-style dishes accompanied by a large selection of wines. If you are looking for other options, the restaurant also serves up pizzas (VND187,000 for a pepperoni pizza), pastas (VND187,000 for a Bolognese pasta) and burgers (VND198,000 for the signature black wagyu beef burger). Apart from wine, the signature cocktails are also available along with beer (VND45,000 for a Tiger beer) and other fruit juices. After is located at 28B Ngo Van Nam, Q1, HCMC

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ToDo

listHanoi Performance, Viet Pride, DJs, Bookworm’s birthday, truffles and art. This month in the capital

1. Lang Toi has now taken up residency at the Hanoi Opera House 2. Globetrotting DJ Marco Mei will be playing at CAMA ATK 3. Bookworm turns 15 this month and celebrates with a little bash 4. JW Marriott is holding a 10-day truffle festival this month

Lang Toi

Marco Mei

Hanoi Opera House, Hoan Kiem Every Monday and Tuesday in August

CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Saturday, Aug. 13

The theatre production Lang Toi or My Village in English, will be opening at the Hanoi Opera House on Saturday, Jul. 16, with subsequent performances scheduled for every Monday and Tuesday night. A delicate combination of tradition and innovation, where the poetic beauty of Vietnamese village life is presented through the use of physical, circus-style theatre bamboo poles and 20 folk instruments performing live, the performers create a constantly moving and changing architecture of life in a traditional Vietnamese village. The show will be performed every Monday and Tuesday night at the Hanoi Opera House. Ticket prices vary depending on seating zones and start at VND630,000 per person rising to VND4 million for the VIP seats. For reservations email reservation@ luneproducton.com or from the Hanoi Opera House Box Office, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. To see our article on Lang Toi, turn to page 12

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Marco Mei, a globetrotting DJ with over two decades on the scene, makes his first appearance at CAMA ATK on Aug. 13. Bringing with him his eclectic mix of house, techno and disco, expect a set that will keep you dancing all night long. Shaped during the early waves of afro and house, Marco started his career as a DJ back in 1991 and has since played at some of the most memorable events and venues on this planet, leading to a DJ residency at the famous Pacha Club in Sharm-ElSheikh. After that, he travelled around the world and performed at countless clubs which include Fuse (Brussels), Room 18 (Taipei), Bangaluu (Berlin) and G-Star (Pattaya). CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA

Bookworm Turns 15 Bookworm, Ba Dinh Sunday, Aug. 14 Everyone’s favourite book store,

Bookworm, will celebrate its 15th birthday with a Sunday afternoon party. Among the highlights will be a live jazzy dance band, a free flow of sangria, nibbles and free balloons for kids. Plus, there will be 15 percent off all items in the shop, with the exception of a few commissioned books. Bookworm is at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi and the party will run from 2pm to 5pm

The Unique Taste of Truffle JW Marriott, Tu Liem Aug. 15 to Aug. 25 Food lovers will get the chance to taste one of gastronomy’s legendary ingredients as the JW Marriott’s French Grill holds a 10-day truffle festival. Starting with a master class on Aug. 15 with Chef Raphael to learn all about truffles and taste the wine selection of the week from Warehouse, the highlight of the festival will be a five-course truffle dinner on Aug. 19, with a special selection of wines and creations like warm truffle salad, artichokes and

Once reserved exclusively for royalty, tranquil Westlake now boasts Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences. Minutes from the city with unobstructed lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers you the award-winning service even ancient kings would envy.

THE FRASER COLLECTION BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST • CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW • GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR • LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI • OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI • SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN • WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) • FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014)

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ToDo

listHanoi

truffle soup or slow cooked wagyu short ribs. The price per person is VND3.5 million. For more information, please contact ha.tran@marriott.com. The JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi is at 8 Do Duc Duc Road, Me Tri, South Tu Liem, Hanoi

1. Viet Pride returns for its fifth outing 2. Photos from a Queer Disco party in 2015 3. Workroom Four is calling to artists to participate in the Fourth Hanoi Open Exhibition 4. Sapa gets its first mountain bike marathon this November

Viet Pride Central Hanoi Aug. 18 to Aug. 21 The fifth annual Viet Pride returns to Hanoi with a four-day schedule that includes speed dating, film screenings, talks, workshops, a rally and naturally, a party. Put together in cooperation with numerous civil rights and LGBTQ organisations, and supported by the Goethe-Institut and various embassies, the objective is to have an effect in public, to set people thinking, to remove existing prejudices and to show positive role models. As ever the event will culminate with a Pride rally on Sunday Aug. 21. Starting at 9am at Giang Vo Lake, hundreds of cyclists will pedal their way to the American Club (19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi) where they will be greeted with a community fair organized by NextGen, 6+ and Hanoi Queer. To get involved, donate or to see the full schedule, click on vietpride.info

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Love Boat Disco CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Aug. 19 It’s monthly. It’s wild. It’s glamourous. And the music consists of all of those fem-pop, 1970s, 1980s and 1990s hits you can’t find elsewhere. This month Queer Disco has rebranded itself as Love Boat Disco as party of this year’s Viet Pride celebrations. So, time to dress up, slip into them heels and bring out the drag. This is one to get you dancing. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Doors are at 10pm. Entrance is free of charge

Artists’ Open Exhibition Workroom Four, Tay Ho Sep. 18 to Oct. 9 Workroom Four is putting out a call to artists to participate in the Fourth Hanoi Open Exhibition. Bringing together a broad range of varied works by both established and unknown artists, professionals and amateurs, including painters, sculptors, photographers, printers and installation artists, last year the exhibition showcased more than 150 artworks produced by over 100 artists. Deadline for submissions is Sep. 5. Any artist may enter work for submission and artists are strongly

encouraged to enter work that is available for sale. Workroom Four is at Packexim Building Tower 1, 24th Floor, No. 49, Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho, Hanoi. For more information click on workroomfour.com

Vietnam Mountain Bike Marathon Sapa, Lao Cai Nov. 4 to Nov. 6 The first edition of the three-day Vietnam Mountain Bike Marathon is set to take place this November in the remote mountainous region surrounding Sapa. The race will be a truly international event, with participants from Australia, Thailand, Switzerland, Malaysia and Indonesia already signed up. The first day’s 55km stage covers the remote north, home to the flower Hmong minorities. The 68km stage two heads to the southern area populated by the Tay and Red Dao people. The race then concludes with a wild sprint stage back towards Sapa Town through Black Hmong villages. The mountain bike race will benefit the communities that live along its route, with a charity donation of US$20 included in every race entry. For more information or to sign up, click on vietnammountainbikemarathon.com

PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

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Just Hanoi

Mooncakes, Italian restaurants, charity drives, and craft beer

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

Mamma Mia Italian food enthusiasts rejoice! Hanoi has a new player on the scene, with Mamma Mia setting up shop on the edge of the Old Quarter. In a spacious and contemporary setting inside the Thien Son Plaza, diners can choose from a varied seasonal menu that includes pizzas, pasta, grilled dishes and a constantly changing specials board, meaning there’s something for everyone. Boasting a ‘true taste of Italy’, Mamma Mia is run by three Italians, with everything made from scratch: the bread, pasta, sauces and ice cream. The eatery is currently in soft opening phase, which means customers get a 20 percent discount until Aug. 30. Mamma Mia is at Thien Son Plaza, 2 Chuong Duong Do, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. For more information, click on mammamia-italia.com

Furbrew 1. Mamma Mia is the latest Italian to bring its homemade goodness to the local dining scene 2. With its handcrafted beers, Furbrew opens for business on To Ngoc Van 3. A taste of Hawaii in Hanoi 4. Everyone’s favourite noodle joint returns to its original location in downtown Hanoi 5. The team from FMP give free medical treatment to a community in Quang Binh 6. This year The Metropole is producing all its mooncakes on site 7. Meat-free fare at Zenith Yoga Studio and Café

Just opened last month, the everevolving streets around Hanoi’s trendy West Lake now host a new craft beer venue. Open every day from 4pm till 11pm, Furbrew promises good times courtesy of a number of craft beers on tap, as well as a fridge full of bottled beer available to take home. The beers are all made by Furbrew themselves. A beer tasting platter will set you back VND100,000 for six 75ml glasses. Varieties currently include Passion Wheat, Ruby IPA and Golden Summer among others. A small 175ml glass costs VND40,000 to VND45,000 while a bigger 375ml glass is VND80,000 to VND90,000. Get your beer on at 8b/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi or click on facebook. com/furbrew

Honolulu Kitchen In a sublimely quiet location on the shores of West Lake, the brightly

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PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

coloured Honolulu Kitchen is open for business. This bright new, Hawaiian-themed restaurant with a penchant for pancakes and banh mi is open daily from 7.30am to 10.30pm. Salads (VND90,000+), pasta (VND140,000+), steaks (VND240,000+) and pancakes (VND110,000+) are all available here, so be sure to come with an empty stomach. Cocktails start from VND69,000 and an eclectic range of other drinks include sangria (VND89,000), sake (VND79,000), soft drinks (VND40,000) and fruit juice (VND40,000+). Soak up the West Lake vibes at 148 Tu Hoa, Tay Ho, Hanoi or click on facebook.com/ Honolulu-Kitchen-904058026372648/

Moto-San Uber trendy uber noodles are back with a bang, as Moto-San returns to its original location close to the Opera House, now with added second floor goodness. Everyone’s favourite neighbourhood food counter continues to specialise in ramen (VND70,000) and stewed pork sandwiches (VND45,000). With snacks and drinks ranging from VND5,000 to VND35,000, MotoSan is a sure fire way to satisfy your stomach without breaking your bank. Moto-San is at 4 Ly Dao Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Open daily from 8am to midnight

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

Appeal for Community Donations Family Medical Practice (FMP) has put out a call for donations ahead of its joint outreach programme with the Embassy of Israel to the impoverished rural Kon Plong region of Kon Tum province in the Central Highlands. The private clinic is seeking a range of household items to present to the impoverished ethnic minorities of the region: the Xe Dang, the Mo Nam, the Ka Dong and the H’Re. Donations could be anything from clothing, educational materials, hygiene and cleaning supplies to non-perishable food. FMP is asking members of the community nationwide to donate such items to any of their clinics listed below: Hanoi 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Ha Noi Ho Chi Minh City Diamond Plaza Clinic: 34 Le Duan,

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

Q1, HCMC District 2 Clinic: 95 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC Care1: The Manor 1, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC Danang 50-52 Nguyen Van Linh, Hai Chau, Danang The items will then be handed out during FMP’s visit from Sep. 11 to Sep. 18. Suffering from some of the highest mortality and lowest life expectancies in the region, 20 doctors, 30 nurses and 70 support staff will provide medical check-ups, health care advice, and vaccinations for 3,500 households in Kon Plong. The team will also provide treatment for those suffering from illness and disease, and instruct local people in basic hygienic practices, from hand washing to tooth brushing.

During this period, all of FMP’s clinics will be closed except for emergency services. For more info email Susan Wu on susan.wu@ vietnammedicalpractice.com

Nguyen Thanh Van and her team. The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi is at 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Mooncakes at Metropole

Vegan Discovery at Zenith

To celebrate the annual mid-Autumn festival, Hotel Metropole Hanoi is launching its legendary mooncake collection at L’Epicerie du Metropole from Aug. 10 to Sep. 15. In addition to varieties such as the traditional mix, Hotel Metropole Hanoi has created new flavours; green bean and dried apricot, salted egg, lotus with young rice, red bean and mango and more. All Metropole mooncakes are preservative free and handbaked by executive sous chef

Zenith Yoga Studio and Cafe is going all out with vegetarian cuisine this August, with menus including dishes like vegan bun nam bo, vegan bun cha, Greek salad, spinach roll with fresh veggies and feta cheese, dragon bowl and raw zucchini pasta. The price of the dishes ranges from VND60,000 to VND110,000. For each week’s menu, Zenith is preparing a special detox juice, including a beetroot purifier and a mean green. Zenith Yoga Studio and Cafe is at 247B Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Insider

Many Faces: Liont / On the Night Market / Nguyen Hue / Nightlife / Where to BYOB in Hanoi / Weird Vietnamese Food in Hanoi / Top Eats Hanoi / Banh Cuon Phu Ly / Mystery Diner HCMC / The Journey of Banh Duc / The Nuclear Missile Base / Luang Prabang / Destination Zero: Sofitel Luang Prabang / Destination Zero: Novotel Suites Hanoi / Notes From Another City: Dalat

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Insider

INSIDER

MANY FACES

Liont

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Meet one of the most important enthusiasts, pioneers and masters of Vietnamese hip-hop. Words by Vu Ha Kim Vy

ig Toe, a hip-hop dancing crew, was formed in November 1992 with five members led by Vu Van Tuan, mainly performing at student proms and bars. For personal reasons, some members left, causing Tuan to look for replacements. That was when Nguyen Viet Thanh, aka Liont, became a member of Big Toe. They stayed together for six more months before officially splitting in 1993. However, Liont, with his enthusiasm and passion for hip-hop, reformed the crew with completely new members in the same year. Two decades later, Big Toe is one of the leading hip-hop dancing crews in this country. A representative of Vietnam in international hip-hop battles, when it comes to the burgeoning hip-hop scene in this country, their influence has been pivotal. It’s all thanks to Liont.

Live to Dance Liont first learnt about hip-hop as a form of expression in 1992 when he went to a student prom. At the event, many types of dances were brought to the stage. “I was really impressed by one group out of the five,” he recalls. “The way they danced was so different compared to everyone else. They made waves and they were popping, all in sync with the music in the background.” Curious, Liont asked one of the crew members what this was. He was told it was called breakdance. Yet the crew member himself “didn’t actually know what they were dancing.” Intrigued, Liont started practicing his first hip-hop movements. Then, taught by an older friend, he officially went on stage at the end of 1992. “At first I started with waves and breakdance power moves,” he says. Although hip-hop was formally recognised as an art form in Vietnam in 2011, Vietnamese parents would hardly encourage their children to make it a career choice. Liont’s family didn’t stop him, but explained that he needed a real job and his passion for dance should be just for fun. In 2000, he tried to quit hip-hop and found himself a job, but after a week he went back to dancing. Even when his mother built a hotel and wanted him to be the manager, it didn’t work out. “I realised those places were not for me and decided to follow my calling,” he says. Liont is now the top captain of Big Toe above three branch crews categorised by

gender, age and type of dance. He has also worked as a judge in international competitions in Canada, Italy and the US, and acts as a dancing teacher to many young Vietnamese.

When the Going Gets Tough Apart from dealing with his family, Liont says other difficulties he encountered included how to get more people interested in hip-hop and how to maintain the crew. “Hip-hop is a street-art form and culture, so the best way to spread these dance moves is to take it back to its natural place,” he says. “So I often performed in public places, such as parks, football fields and cultural houses.” Another problem he encountered were the frequent conflicts between members of his crew. People who follow hip-hop usually have big egos, Liont says, as everyone wants to show they have more ability than everyone else. “As the leader, I always have to manage the relationship of the members and create a comfortable and enjoyable environment,” he explains. “Everyone has strengths and weaknesses, the most important thing is to learn from each other, not to create hatred or jealousy.” Under his leadership, Big Toe has won many prominent awards, including fourth place in the Southeast Asian Hip-Hop Competition in 2005 and 2006, in the top 16 of Floor War 2016 — European Hip-Hop Competition, champion of Vietnam Battle of The Year (BOTY) 2009, fourth in Asian BOTY 2009, Best Showcase and in the top eight of Floor The Love 2010, champion of SEA BOTY 2010 and champion of R16 Southeast Asia 2010. They have also been running hip-hop classes, such at 25 Thai Thinh, Dong Da, Hanoi and Savico Long Bien (7 Nguyen Van Linh, Long Bien, Hanoi) for kids; and the studio at V+ Mall (505 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi) is the first institute teaching professional hip-hop combined with Latin and contemporary dance. “With this structure, we are able to train dancers to their full strength, and provide them the knowledge and culture of hiphop, so they can participate in national and international competitions,” says Liont. “It also makes parents feel more comfortable,” he adds. “That means they will give spiritual and financial support to their kids, making a strong future for hiphop in Vietnam.”

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Insider

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INSIDER

PHOTO ESSAY

On the Night Market The night market under Long Bien Bridge is more than just a market, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a way of life. Words and photos by Jesse Meadows

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don’t know exactly what it is about night markets that fascinates me. Maybe it’s because my biological clock always keeps me on the night shift. Or it could be the chaos and colour tucked away like a secret in the dark. Hanoi’s alleyways are quiet and eerie at night, but all it takes is one turn round a lucky corner to find yourself bewildered. Workers pull the 10-to-5

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shift under the angry blue of fluorescent lightbulbs. Women run by with empty trolleys, on their way to stack them high with boxes of produce. Motorbikes honk angrily with wide loads that would mow you down if you didn’t jump out of the way fast enough. There’s so much to watch, if only you had time to stop for a moment. And then the train roars by overhead, and caught in the midst of the disarray,

it sounds like the world is ending. Of course, I’m romanticising. Many people who live near the market find the waste it leaves behind in the morning a nuisance. A plan is underway to reorganise Hanoi’s wholesale markets by 2020, and there’s been talk of closing this one for a while. It’s one of the biggest of its kind in the north of Vietnam, with hundreds of tons of produce from Vietnam and further afield stacked in

giant box trucks, all lined up underneath the creaking, rusty hulk of the Long Bien bridge. It’s easy to get lost in the chaos, and miss the quiet moments in between. Like the way that angry fluorescent light falls delicately on a pile of fresh susu stalks; or the hard-working woman who’s fallen asleep among her pineapples. But there I go, being romantic again. It’s just a night market, after all.

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Insider

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INSIDER

HCMC

Nguyen Hue

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ew non-Vietnamese know the story of Nguyen Hue, the general and emperor who has given his name to a major street in almost every major city in Vietnam. Indeed, many may have only heard of one of the most successful commanders in Vietnamese history as a result of the opening of the first pedestrian-only street in Ho Chi Minh City, in April 2015. Born in 1753, together with his brothers Nguyen Nhac and Nguyen Lu, Hue defeated the two rival feudal houses of the Trinh in the North and Nguyen in the South. He then overthrew the Le dynasty, unifying the country. In 1788 Nguyen Hue was crowned emperor and changed his name to Quang Trung. However, his reign was short-lived and he died just four years later, aged 40. Despite his stunted period in power, he instituted many national reforms including setting Vietnamese chu nom as the official written language of the country and creating an identity card system. 64 metres wide and 670 metres long, his namesake in Central Saigon is often called

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From a canal to the first pedestrian-only street in Saigon, Nguyen Hue has become a phenomenon since it was opened last year. Words by Vu Ha Kim Vy. Photos by Bao Zoan Walking Street and stretches from the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Committee Building (the former Town Hall) to Bach Dang Wharf on the Saigon River. Since its inauguration, it has become the de facto centre of the city.

From a Canal to the First Pedestrian Street Originally a canal stretching from the Saigon River to the Gia Dinh Citadel, the first incarnation of this street was built in 1790 by Nguyen Anh, later known as Emperor Gia Long. While local Vietnamese called it kinh lon (big canal) or kinh cho vai (fabric market canal) as it was a busy fabric trading area, later when the French colonised Saigon it was renamed Grand Canal. There were two

roads alongside the canal â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Rue Rigault de Genouilly (now on the Sunwah Tower side) and Rue Charner (Times Square side). Merchants used this canal to bring their products to the central market that was the old Ben Thanh Market located on Rue Rigault de Genouilly (now the National Treasury on the corner between Ngo Duc Ke and Nguyen Hue) In 1887, due to pollution issues, the French filled in the canal and merged the two roads, creating Charner Boulevard, and in 1912 Ben Thanh Market was moved to its present location at the end of Le Loi. In 1956, the former Saigon government changed the name to Nguyen Hue Boulevard. After six months of construction, with an investment of VND430 billion and tiled with

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granite bricks, the boulevard has become the first pedestrian street in Ho Chi Minh City. Now it functions like the old Grand Canal, with the roads on either side reserved for vehicles, and the central area for pedestrians.

A Messy Combination? Up to the end of the 20th century, during Tet Nguyen Hue was still the main flower market of the city. Flowers were gathered at Bach Dang Wharf then delivered to booths set up on the street. After a break, the flower market returned during Tet 2004 in a new format where flowers were not on sale, but were displayed in complex arrangements for visitors, the only time of the year that Nguyen Hue got busy and crowded. Since the rebuild last year, the street has welcomed hundreds of both local and international visitors every night. According to Nguoi Lao Dong newspaper, Nguyen Hue is the most modern street in the country with a lighting control system and two underground toilet areas. It’s also considered the most beautiful urban walking street in Vietnam with two fountain-light areas, trees, benches and, of course, CCTV systems set up at each corner. However, Tran Dinh Nam, a professor of Ho Chi Minh City University of Architecture, doesn’t think the walking street comes up to standards. “Beautiful walking streets are streets which lie in old areas such as Paris’s Notre Dame Cathedral or Moscow’s Red Square,” he says. “Nguyen Hue is a messy combination of modern building and old architecture. Only 30 percent of the buildings show characteristic architecture, such as the People’s Committee Building, the National Treasury, the Rex Hotel and Palace Hotel.” He also admits that he preferred the old Nguyen Hue where he could take a walk around the small garden in front of the old statue of Ho Chi Minh. “The statue is bigger now and is more for meeting people than for looking at,” he adds.

Better at Night Nguyen Hue, with its two lines of small

shadeless trees is definitely not a destination during daylight hours when the temperature can get up to 39°C. It’s also not a place for those who want to stay for a few hours, as there are not many seats. “People just sit on the ground,” says a lady called Ngoc. She often takes her nieces to the street at weekends. “But it’s more fun and beautiful at night.” Ngoc is right. From above, Nguyen Hue looks fabulous at night with the lights and fountains. Most people find the street a relaxing spot to hang out with friends or family. The street is not only a favourite place for selfies and other photos but also an outdoor stage for street artists. Kids enjoy the pedestrianised area as a space for their roller skates and hoverboards. There used to be food and drink vendors along the street, however, eating and drinking has been prohibited since Apr. 18 this year to reduce littering.

More Walking Streets According to Dan Tri online newspaper, big and popular F&B brands including McDonald’s, Starbucks, Ngon Asia House and Eleven Café already have branches on the street and other investors are jostling

for space despite the high rents and tiny floor spaces. Some investors have already amalgamated small areas to build an entertainment complex (Saigon Garden) then split it up again into smaller sections for lease. The land on Nguyen Hue was already the most expensive in Ho Chi Minh City, but after the pedestrian street opened, rents have increased by 15% to 25%. The Ho Chi Minh City authorities are planning to build another walking area around Bui Vien, De Tham and Do Quang Dau in the backpacker area. This is considered a good way to make the area safer for tourists as well as promoting tourism and residential life. According to Thanh Nien newspaper, the process will be divided into two phases — the pedestrian street project will be first tested on Bui Vien for a year then expanded on De Tham and Do Quang Dau with vehicles prohibited from 7pm to midnight. As a warrior, a leader and an emperor, one wonders what Nguyen Hue would think of his namesake. Would he be proud? That’s an answer we’ll never know. One thing’s for sure. His feats and short time on this planet have not been forgotten.

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Cover Story COVER STORY / INTRO

Nightlife O

ne thing that separates Vietnam from countries elsewhere is what happens after dark. Whether it’s the dead of winter or the heat of a humid summer’s night, after the sun goes down people come out to play. There’s no sitting indoors here, glued to the TV, the latest boxset in hand. This is an outdoors country, where life is lived on the streets, in bars and bia hois, in restaurants and

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drinking haunts, in parks and public spaces, on motorbikes, under bridges, over rivers, in small tea shops, or in cafes. The following pages are a testament to this country’s nightlife. From the people who’ve allowed it to arrive at its present form, through to those on the sidelines who keep the country running, we’ve created a snapshot of Vietnam after dark as it stands in 2016.

Some things have changed, have become modern, contemporary, themed for the 21st century; many others have remained the same. Past versus present, it’s a recurring theme, one that preoccupies Vietnam as it transitions into the wider world. This country’s nightlife is a big part of it. Photos by Julie Vola, Jesse Meadows, Theo Lowenstein, Bao Zoan, Rodney Hughes, Sian Kavanagh, Vu Ha Kim Vy and Nick Ross

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COVER STORY / THE PEOPLE

Vo Duc Anh Hanoi Rock City

find Vo Duc Anh early on a Wednesday night at Hanoi Rock City, the music venue he’s run in Hanoi for almost six years. He’s on the phone, cigarette in hand, lamenting a guitar without strings and asking someone on the other end to bring some. He hangs up and extends a slender tattooed arm to me. The typewriter script on his right arm reads: “Make art, not war”. On his left arm, the words: “Discover the beauty in simplicity” are stamped. I ask what this means to him and he laughs. “It’s what my dad says when he doesn’t want to give me money.” A frugal parent, his father gave him a different kind of value; a love for music. When he returned from working abroad in the early 1990s, he brought with him albums by the likes of Whitney Houston and Abba. He started playing guitar at the age of twelve, and cites a range of influences over the years, from Michael Jackson to Nirvana to Stevie Ray Vaughn. “In the past six years, I’ve opened my mind to a lot of different genres, and the way I listen to music has changed as well,” the 33-year-old guitarist says, citing a shift from his earlier guitar-solo obsession to a current fascination with drums and bass, and a new-found love for experimental acts, electronic music, and Vietnamese reggae. This musical expansion comes as no surprise; steering the helm of Hanoi’s only dedicated live music venue is bound to evolve a musician. Vo Duc Anh and three friends opened Hanoi Rock City in 2010, and since then, they’ve hosted almost

every band in the city, plus numerous international acts across the musical spectrum. Their focus has always been on providing a quality sound system and a welcoming stage for live music.

ORIGINALITY

“When we started, there were not many venues in town for people to play original material. Vietnamese kids were always playing covers in bars and coffee houses, but suddenly, there was a place that would put them on, so they started writing original songs. It feels really rewarding to see those bands grow.” He met his business partners while studying maths in England; three of them had attended the same high school together in Vietnam. When they returned home, they saw their peers opening swanky nightclubs and selling bottle service. “That’s where you make good money, but we didn’t want to do that,” he says. “We just wanted to build the music scene.” I ask if he manages to make a living here now, but he scoffs. “This place doesn’t pay f*ck all!” By day, he’s a maths teacher, a school band leader, and a talent show organiser, but still says: “Music is everything. Teaching maths and hanging out with kids is really fun, but I can’t live without music.” “If people were willing to pay VND100,000 for a live gig, it would be much easier for us and the artists, and for the scene, too,” he says. “It’s quite tough [on the bands]. We can’t afford to pay them too much, but it’s fun. The kids get to play, and we get to listen.” — Jesse Meadows

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COVER STORY / THE PEOPLE

Dan Bi Mong Observatory

an Bi Mong walks into the cafe, energetic and obviously fit, handsome in an exotic, windswept way. He shakes hands and thanks me for coming, a polite gesture for someone who has influenced Saigon’s dance and electronic music scene to the point of reshaping it in just three years. Sitting across from me, he’s a quietly intense presence, concealing great passion under courtesy and humility. When asked about music, that passion shines through, speaking animatedly in his Swiss-French accented English. What strikes most is his sincerity, and his near-mystical belief in the near-mystical bond between artist and audience… at least, when the DJ or artists are at least as skilled as he. Another thing in his unofficial biography is how instrumental he was in getting international acts to Saigon. He built the Observatory, a place where DJs could play to their spirits’ content — and come the DJs did.

C HANGES

In three years, he’s expanded the whole scene, bringing new music, new styles, new clubs to fruition, plus the wave of international DJs and dance-music performers who have graced Ho Chi Minh City over that time. Even before he arrived, he had connections to the Saigon music scene that allowed him to move in smoothly, organizing parties with Linh Phan and DJ Jase in his first year here. In his quiet way, he’s one of a very small group who have created Ho Chi Minh City’s modern, non-mainstream dance-music scene. “There are many more parties, many more promoters, many more venues. Compared to four years ago, we can see many more international acts more regularly. It’s funny, because there were many more local people at the old location [of the Observatory].”

THE I NTERNATIONAL

How did he lure the big international acts that now play so regularly now at the Observatory and other venues? “The first real international act we had was Alton Miller, one of the main figures of house music in Detroit in the ‘90s. He was on tour in Asia and he contacted us through mutual friends.” That has proven true since; almost all of the international DJs who have played the Observatory have approached Dan, not vice versa, a stunning thing to say for a small club far off the beaten path of the major music festivals and venues. “I think they just have fun here,” says Dan.

THE O BSERVATORY

When asked about his plans for the Observatory, Dan is definite. “I don’t want the Observatory to get bigger because I love small clubs,” he explains. “I don’t want to open Observatory 2… I want our loyal fans to keep coming, to keep having a good time, and to make enough money to stabilise it and step back. We want to keep reasonable prices so the local people can come.”

L EGACY

When asked about his own legacy as a performer, he’s typically modest, supposing that there are “a few” young DJs who were inspired by him to begin playing. “Wow, that’s a big question,” he laughs and immediately begins talking about other performers. And finally, what about the music and DJs he loves? “The ideal act is a DJ who fills the place and from the first track it’s working — you can tell he’s communicating with the crowd. I like DJs who take risks, who take the audience on a journey… it must be real dynamic. Sometimes [ideal] DJs lead and follow at the same time.” — Owen Salisbury

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COVER STORY / THE PEOPLE

Linh Nguyen Saigon Outcast

ehind the antics of District 2’s quirkiest hang-out, Saigon Outcast, is Linh Nguyen, though he is the last person who would ever tell you that. Typically seen cleaning up, helping behind the bar, or making sure the place runs smoothly, Linh is a man who always has time to stop and chat. His accent has a mild southern English lilt and his eyes are constantly wide with excitement at the prospect of another project. When Outcast first started hosting events in early 2013, there were never plans for this venue in Thao Dien to grow to the scale it has today. Over the past three years, they have hosted everything from comedy nights and life drawing workshops to welcoming international musicians for the evening and throwing killer parties. Though the original Outcast location has recently started evolving its line-up and repertoire of events, with the addition of a climbing wall and less crazy late-night parties, we can still expect more of that rowdy nightlife with the opening of the second Outcast location, Rogue on Pasteur Street, later this summer. Linh has spent most of his life in Saigon or the UK. He grew up in Cambridge and London, and moved back to Vietnam seven years ago for his job as studio lead artist at a computer game company.

O N THE FRINGE

“I wasn’t happy, it wasn’t for me,” remarks Linh. He never felt he belonged in the UK, and since returning hasn’t quite felt fully accepted back into Saigon; Linh himself is the original Outcast. The Outcast brand brings those on the fringes of the city together. At a recent market I attended, there were many LGBTQ couples who commented how Outcast was one of the few places they felt they could be safely out together in the city. For those who need it, Outcast isn’t just a venue, but a home with a built-in family, and two pet dogs; Fudge and Brownie. Linh partnered together with his thencolleague Ha, and they moved into the containers on the Outcast land, creating a

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home space for themselves. The home and garden quickly became a place for their community, somewhere everyone would be welcomed with open arms. The venue started with the idea of being a café attached to a custom motorcycle shop — and the entire space was initially a garden. However, Linh always made sure to listen to the suggestions of his friends and peers, and used their input to develop the space. Sure enough, there were pizza ovens built, walls painted, and water fights staged. “There were a lot of nights spent in hotels, though,” remembers Linh. “Especially when we were throwing parties. It was impossible to get any sleep.”

PERSEVERANCE

Saigon Outcast isn’t Linh’s only project, so he doesn’t go out a whole lot. “When I do go out in Saigon, one of my favourite places is Yoko and the best place to drink is Pasteur Street Brewing Company,” says Linh. “It’s all about perseverance, doing what you enjoy, and making sure you do it for you,” he adds, when asked about a formula for success in the Saigon nightlife scene. In a city of copycats, Outcast stands proudly on the fringes doing its own thing. “Outcast was built by many hands, not just one or two people,” says Linh. “We weren’t trying to add to what the city already had, we wanted to create somewhere new.” The venue was one of the first to serve Fuzzy Logic beer and Saigon Cider, and still proudly does to this day, and has also been decorated by artists such as Holm the Tooth and Frenemy multiple times. Though Linh may be an Outcast in Saigon, that doesn’t mean that he’s going anywhere any time soon. “The best thing about Vietnam is the opportunity to push boundaries,” he says. “[And] to be more creative, which is a lot harder to do back in the UK. Saigon Outcast and Rogue are projects that I love working on. But I feel like a man on a mission, and there is still a masterpiece to come.” — Siân Kavanagh

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COVER STORY / THE PEOPLE

Dan dockery CAMA and CAMA ATK

n Hanoi’s halcyon days after doi moi, the city rose at 5am and went to bed at 9pm. There were few restaurants, no bars beyond the staple bia hoi, and little to occupy the restless soul. By the mid-1990s there was a smattering of international restaurants, the odd bar, and the start of something akin to nightlife. By the turn of the century, this had gone up another notch or two. But beyond the odd band night — the Filipino bands had yet to infiltrate the city — there was little live music and only a few DJs, mainly local. Enter two separate, expat-created entities: The Club for Art and Music Appreciation (CAMA) and The Minsk Club, and the city gradually got itself a little shake-up. Dan Dockery is one of the people behind Highway 4, Son Tinh Liquor and CAMA, but when he first arrived in Vietnam in 1997, he was the first teacher working at Language Link. Yet, having spent a year in Russia and become obsessed by Minsk motorbikes, Dan, like other expats of the time, had a need to do something. So when The Minsk Club was formed in 1998, he was one of its founders. “It started off as a motorbike club and then became an ad hoc party machine,” recalls Dan. “By 1999 we started doing parties with a Vietnamese band and a DJ, and we were also running the Minsk Olympics which combined a number of motorbike activities with the local music scene. We weren’t getting international artists to perform, just working with local talent.” By the mid-2000s CAMA was up and running with the idea of introducing international artists and talent to the local scene in Vietnam. Established by Giles Cooper and Nick Greenfield, between 2005 and 2007 they started getting involved in Minsk Club events. “The last couple of Minsk Club events were the Minsk Olympics, and they ended up becoming weekend-long music parties,” says Dan. “CAMA were curating their music machine within that set-up, while

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Steve [Christensen] was sound manager. We decided it was pointless putting our energy into separate entities. So in 2008 we merged the Minsk Club into CAMA.” From two people, CAMA became four, with Steve and Dan joining the team.

B UILDING A S CENE

In the years since, CAMA have established a phenomenal reputation for bringing in talent from overseas. “The number of international performers is well in excess of 200 now,” says Dan. They have staged annual festivals in Hanoi — seven editions of the CAMA Festival and two editions of ASEAN Pride; at their height the festivals were attended by over 4,000 people. They’ve put on parties in the midst of storms on the banks of the Red River, worked with cultural entities like the Japan Foundation and the British Council, and after years searching for a venue of their own, finally set up the left-field, Berlinesque CAMA ATK on Hanoi’s Mai Hac De. That there is now so much live music and performance in Hanoi is in large part thanks to the pioneering work put in by CAMA over the past 11 years. Yet, despite their success in bringing entertainment to the capital, CAMA remains true to its roots. The first ‘A’ in CAMA stands for Art. Which means it’s not all about music. “Spoken word, comedy, different genres, performance, we’ve staged a bit of everything,” says Dan. “We’ve stuck to our original goal of not being too band-focused and we’ve introduced a lot of different talent to the scene. “We’ve also enabled local Vietnamese talent to share the stage with some quite incredible musical talent from overseas. The gigs have opened people’s eyes to an incredible variety of genres.” With a new, potentially huge collaboration taking place at the end of this year, one thing CAMA can guarantee is that there’s a lot more to come.

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COVER STORY / THE PEOPLE

Trinh Lai Qui and Envy

t’s a Friday night in Qui, Trinh Lai’s latest creation, and the place is pumping. In the ground-floor lounge bar and top-end yet casual restaurant located on the premises that once housed Sin Lounge, the clientele is a mix of young 20- and 30-something Vietnamese, internationally minded foreigners not stuck on their beer, and people who like the nightclub-esque atmosphere of a club in the environs of a beautifully crafted bar. Lai is in his spot at the back, glass of wine in hand surveying his realm. He’s watching, talking to friends and enjoying himself. If Lai could choose anywhere to spend his nights in this city, he would spend them in Qui. This venue is an extension of himself. Yet this is not the first lounge and restaurant the Danish-Vietnamese entrepreneur has been involved with in Saigon. Before, there was Chill Skybar, Sorae and San Fu Lou, a behindthe-scenes role in MAD house in District 2 and District 7, and a range of other projects. Just the names reveal his calibre; if anyone has shaken up the drinking and dining scene in this city, and broken new barriers, it’s Lai. There’s more to come. “I’m shortly opening Envy, and I’m doing something in Nha Trang, too,” he says. “There are two more [restaurants] coming on the waterfront on Ton Duc Thang. Saigon Centre is opening in September 2017 — three outlets on the 28th and 29th floor; a Japanese garden, a lounge and a Chinese restaurant.” Yet Lai is not just a serial entrepreneur. Food and beverage is his life. It’s something he’s passionate about.

U NASSUMING

Coming from humble roots, Lai found his first job in the fast food industry in his teens. Over time he worked on all sides of the business — in the kitchen as a chef, as service staff and as a bartender. The entrepreneurial bug came young and at the tender age of 18, he opened a small

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takeaway shop. “I did burgers, hotdogs and other small things,” he recalls. From there he “built himself up”, and travelled the world taking up short-term jobs in restaurants, before ending up back in Denmark and finally, less than a decade ago, Vietnam. Since he’s been in Saigon he’s been creating new dining and drinking concepts and building up teams to run them. He hasn’t stopped. “All these things, the passion comes from myself,” he says. “I don’t know why. I like to create something new, a new concept, I hate copying. I like challenging myself with something.” He adds: “I always ask myself, how can I do something new in Vietnam? How can I do something good for the young Vietnamese to learn F&B, be passionate about F&B. It’s tough. Food and beverage is a tough business.”

THE COMPETITION

In the years since Lai first opened Chill, the competition has become immense. Everyone is trying to outdo everyone else and come up with that killer concept. Lai’s response is simple. “I focus on myself, I also focus on the market, what the market needs,” he explains. “I don’t want to do something too crazy that Vietnam has never seen. But it’s difficult, sometimes you’re lucky and you hit straight away — boom. Sometimes you open and you see that you need to fix things a little bit. But when I create a concept, I always say to myself, I am 50/50 confident that I won’t lose, that I will break even.” For him, details are king, it’s something that drives him and makes him feel he can always do better. It’s this determination, this passion for perfection, that makes him the success story he is. “I can still work day and night,” he says. “But nothing is ever completely done. There’s a lot of things I have to learn.” — Nick Ross

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The Spoken Word Make ‘em laugh, make ‘em cry, make ‘em wait 68 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

hy did the poet cross the road? In order to experience the chicken’s existential uncertainty before writing a moving soliloquy about it. Ok, so I think it’s best if I leave the comedy to the people who actually get up on stage; and luckily, there are a growing number of them in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The comedy scene is thriving, driven by individuals who share the belief that life is best spent laughing. Gaining ground on the comedy scene is the rising popularity of spoken-word events. Quite broad in meaning, spoken-word often includes poetry, storytelling and monologue theatre.

D OWN S OUTH

One regular feature on the amateur Ho Chi Minh City comedy scene is the Broken Rice open-mic gig at Two In One (143 Ton That Dam, Q1, HCMC) every Monday evening. Produced by American comedians Adam Palmeter and Tom McNulty, the show acts as a great platform for comedians of any level of experience to try out new material on a good-natured audience happy about the free entry. Another comedic duo at the forefront of the amateur comedy scene in Ho Chi Minh City are Brian Armstrong and Diana Bailey. Diana was the creator of a show called Virgin Jokes, which gave beginners a chance to try out stand-up comedy in a friendly environment. There will be a new instalment of Virgin Jokes coming in September, so keep a look out for details of that on their Facebook page ‘Diana and Brian Do Shows’. Chuckle Bucket is another weekly openmic show tickling ribs down at Piu Piu (97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, HCMC) on Wednesday nights. Brian says these shows are essential for comedians to work on material, as it gives them a chance to “hack away at the old stuff and make it better.” Adam feels that Ho Chi Minh City is a great place for anyone wanting to contribute to the creative output, but recognises the comedy scene is still quite small there. “The scene is not terribly big so there’s really no point in competition like you would find in a larger city,” Brian says, which perhaps explains why his comedic colleague Tom is yearning for a more “tightknit Asia circuit” where comedians can tour around the region, and help the scene to grow and support itself.

C OMEDY R OOTS

Brian used to perform in and help produce some of the earliest amateur comedy shows in Ho Chi Minh City, at the Stand Up Saigon gigs back in 2012. He says they “were

getting unbelievably good crowds back then, and they’re still filling rooms here once a month.” Diana thinks that the small nature of the scene is “a blessing in disguise, as it forces you to write new jokes all the time”, which keeps the shows fresh for the expatdominated audiences. One of the most successful comedy coordinators down south is Saigon International Comedy (SIC), which for the last four years has been organised by Nick Ross. Working with regional promotors, SIC is able to bring professional international comedians over to Southeast Asia on tour; after changing venues, their monthly shows now take place Game On Saigon (115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, HCMC). With comedians coming up including Bob Slayer, Stephen Carlin and the formidable Gina Yashere, who Nick describes as “one of the best comedians on the UK circuit”, SIC’s reach is getting much more global. “We’ve had some pretty amazing comics pass through,” says Nick. “Glenn Wool has been here three times, and people like Martin Mor and Aidan Killian love it so much in this country, that they keep on returning for more.” Together with Brian Armstrong and Diana Bailey, SIC also helped to stage the Magners International Comedy Festival back in March, which brought together local comedians and great comics from overseas. With so many quality performers now available, the comedy scene is becoming increasingly sustainable, as Nick suggests: “The punters are happy to pay VND200,000 to see a quality show.”

N ORTHERN L AUGHS

Dan Dockery, one of the people behind CAMA ATK (73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi) says that they were the first group to promote comedy and bring international acts to Hanoi. In June, CAMA Comedy collaborated with SIC to host the hilarious Will Mars, a British comedian of Edinburgh Fringe fame. The month before it was American comic Turner Sparks. According to many, he was the best comedian to have performed here so far. “Back in 2011, we started promoting comedy at House of Son Tinh but recently moved it to ATK,” says Dan, adding that the shows became more regular from 2013, including monthly comedy shows at ATK. CAMA Comedy and SIC presently work together with promoters in Cambodia, Thailand and Singapore to bring professional comics to Vietnam. One of the most recent additions to the Hanoi comedy scene is a diverse group of improv performers called The Rotten Grapes. Despite only being founded in

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COVER STORY / THE SCENE May 2015, they already have a number of successful shows under their belt, including a recent gig at L’Espace (24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi) which drew another improv group from Hong Kong, as well as various other performers, musicians and magicians. Speaking of diversity, Diana in Ho Chi Minh City says they have been “really lucky to have killer female comedians and Vietnamese locals do some of their first sets at our shows”, and mentions Kerry Smith, Uy Le and Chris Vo as ones to watch. Adam speaks of his admiration for Vietnamese comedians performing in a second language, saying that “sarcasm is something that is difficult to translate, but these Vietnamese comedians study it and adapt.”

O C AP TAIN O I ! M Y C AP TAIN O I !

All over, Vietnam is bursting at the seams with creativity, as people from a rainbow of backgrounds look for new platforms to express themselves through poetry and storytelling. In Hanoi, one of the most active members of the spoken word scene is Josh Berrett, who with his wife, Annetta De Vet, runs a community called Hanoi Slam. According to Josh: “It started as a way to run story slams… before moving on to spoken word and poetry.” Recognising the historical importance of poetry to Vietnamese culture, Josh says that these days, thanks to the internet, “there are young Vietnamese poets who want to write poetry in English and perform it at a slam.” This has diversified the scene in Hanoi, ensuring mixed audiences can relate to performers on a more personal level. At a recent party at the Rec Room (Hanoi Creative City, 1 Luong Yen), Josh helped put together a group of poets, storytellers and

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spoken word artists to entertain a packed rooftop crowd. “I’m far from the first to invite poets to perform in Hanoi,” Josh says. “But I’m honoured to be part of the tradition, and introduce new concepts.” He hopes to soon run events where poets recite in their own languages, as he feels the performance itself can be just as moving as understanding the words.

L ET U S G O THEN YOU AND I

Spinning the storytelling yarn down south is James Dilday from Saigon Storytelling. James founded the group just this year, after years of experience producing standup comedy shows — he was one of the founders of Stand-Up Saigon. A success from the start, with 250 people attending the first show, the diversity and appeal of Saigon Storytelling is already making waves. They also host free public speaking/ storytelling workshops open to anyone, and James proudly tells me that much of the most recent Storytelling audience were Vietnamese locals. The next Storytelling show is coming on Aug. 25, so check out their Facebook page ‘Storytelling Saigon’ for more details about venue and performers. Whether you’re following in the footsteps of Emily Dickinson, or dream of an audience leaving behind wet seats after an hour of your best jokes, the fledgling scenes in Vietnam are an exciting and increasingly diverse place to peddle your speech craft. As for myself and the rest of the audience members, we can simply continue laughing and crying with joy and gratitude that the spoken word continues to be such a cherished currency. — Edward Dalton

COVER STORY / THE SCENE

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Park Life after Sunset Love, exercise, dancing and fun

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COVER STORY / THE SCENE

nyone who has spent more than five minutes in Hanoi can attest to how chaotic and alive it feels. As the sun goes down, any street where there is beer or music to be found takes a step into the spotlight and revellers flock to the most lively bars and clubs. Although not yet conforming to the ‘city that never sleeps’ cliché, Hanoi is just as alive in the evening as during the day. During the day, Hanoi’s various parks, lakeside pavements and public squares usually act as havens for those seeking respite from the barrage of sensory assaults found on the streets. Once darkness descends, however, they take on an entirely different hue. Pavements which during the day played host to aging fishermen are taken over by romance. Parks which were previously quiet places to sit and eat your banh my become gyms and playgrounds.

F ORBIDDEN L OVE

It’s a well-known fact that Hanoi is modernising at an exciting pace. In just the seven years between my first visit and the present day, it’s plain to see how many more girls are giving their usually long, straightened black hair the Toni & Guy treatment. It’s becoming increasingly fashionable to Instagram a photo of an exotic Western lunch of spaghetti Bolognese. Perhaps most interestingly is how attitudes towards relationships and sex have changed among young people. Once upon a time, pre-marital sex or even holding hands in public were things to be scorned. Despite more young people developing increasingly open views on these issues, there is still cause to be cautious. For this reason, it’s still very common to see young couples meeting together for a fleeting moment of romance under the cover of night. The most popular places are usually lakeside pavements, where they can often be found sitting together on a parked motorbike, embraced tightly and gazing out over the calming waters. The Botanical Garden (Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh, Hanoi) is another place to see

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young love being nurtured as couples take romantic strolls hand-in-hand. According to research conducted by Sandra Kurfürst for her book Redefining Public Space in Hanoi: Places, Practices and Meaning, the Botanical Garden has become such a popular place for young couples to meet because ‘they can feel free, not caring about anyone but the partner’. In an interview with a young man called Thang, Ms. Kurfürst found the main reason for the necessity of an evening rendezvous in a park was because he was never allowed to bring his girlfriend home. I’m happy to report that it’s not only young couples making use of public spaces for the purpose of building a relationship. At the Ly Tu Trong Flower Garden (Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Hanoi) from around 7.30pm, the music starts and dozens of more ripe married couples begin an evening of dancing. Ballroom classics, jives and waltzes are the typical routines practiced here, and the whole area is surrounded by observers enjoying a cold lemon tea.

W ORKOUT

Keeping fit is central to the lives of many Hanoians, young and old. Taking a selfie in the mirror to show off your yoga body is the definition of egotistical showing off, whereas I’d like to believe that heading down to your local park for an evening aerobics class in public is more about using the group mentality as a motivation to sweat away the day’s calories. Ly Thai To Park (Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi) is just one of many places to find these classes in full swing. Attended almost exclusively by women, the classes are led by an instructor who guides the group through rhythmic exercises against a background of pumping music. If aerobics in front of passing traffic and quizzical tourists is not your thing, then perhaps a spot of evening power walking or badminton would be more suitable. Easily spotted in the evening around any lake, park or even at Ba Dinh Square (Hung Vuong, Ba Dinh, Hanoi), men and women embark on walks of mammoth strides with clenched

fists swinging up in front of their faces. At the less comical end of the exercising spectrum, a pair of parallel trees and enough space to swing a cat is all it takes to set up a rudimentary badminton court. Nets are strung up, court boundaries are marked by bags or spare clothes and tournaments of mixed doubles play out across the twilight hours.

P L AY TIME

Many times I’ve been driving home past the Lenin Monument (Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Hanoi) late in the evening and found my inner killjoy calling out ‘it’s well past their bedtime!’ at the scores of children still playing out. Ball games, scooters, skateboards are the activities of choice for most, as parents watch over their kids siphoning off all of their excess energy as late as 10pm. Some parents take a more active approach to the fun and games, and take over the controls of giant remote controlled cars, driving around children who may or may not be aware that they actually have no control of the miniature Bugatti Veyron they are sitting in. Street vendors take advantage of the popularity of parks at night among families with young children, and can be found flogging cheap toys or sugary snacks to kids dragging their reluctant human wallets (mum or dad) behind them. In an ever-expanding city with developments springing up left, right and centre, Hanoi’s open spaces are more vital than ever. Thankfully, even the most brazen developer can’t build new property on a lake, and many of Hanoi’s best open spaces are in public squares devoted to the veneration of an individual of historical and cultural significance, and are therefore unlikely to be turfed up any time soon. It lifts my heart to see these spaces being used so extensively in the evening by families, children and young couples, especially when so many families back at home in South London are usually slouched in front of a TV watching soap operas until bedtime. — Edward Dalton

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hen the sun goes down and the heat becomes bearable, the b-boys of Hanoi head to a park in Hai Ba Trung District, where they gather on the smooth tile floor outside a massive stone building and practice. Their leader, 28-year-old Khanh Linh, directs the dancers in handstands and flips, periodically taking breaks to watch YouTube videos of past performances on a laptop in the corner. “This is my crew that will compete in Thailand in September,” he tells me. Called SINE, the group won Battle of the Year in 2013 and 2014, and have danced in competitions all over Asia and Europe. Now, they’ve recruited new dancers, and Linh is hard at work every night training them. He learned to dance in a similar fashion, when he stumbled upon the BigToe crew practicing in a square in 2003. Six months later, they invited him to their studio, and he danced with them until 2010, before breaking away to form SINE with 16 other members. When Vietnam was first exposed to hiphop culture in the early 1990s, people were scared, Linh explains.

E XPRESSION

“When we saw American movies, we always saw the guns, and the fighting. So we thought, this is hip-hop. But we can’t bring American hip-hop culture to Vietnam. We need to make our own culture.” “We dance battle because we don’t want to use guns,” Linh explains. “We call ourselves b-boys, not b-men… because we only want to have fun.” The genre in America has become synonymous with things like gang violence

and drug-dealing; it began as a form of expression for struggling youth in New York City’s impoverished Bronx neighbourhood. But Vietnamese hip-hop lacks this painful origin story, and likewise, much of its aggression. “We share more than we fight. Young rappers in town, sometimes they have a beef. But at a certain point, you realise you should focus on doing bigger things for the community,” says 23-year-old rapper Hung Nguyen, known in HCMC as Emcee K. He recently opened a small venue called La Canala, which hosts Saigon Cypher, a monthly event for young emcees and DJs. The 21-year-old Nguyen Luong Ngoc Lam, known as Kaza, is a regular on these nights. “It’s like a showcase for the homies and everyone else to gather around, chilling and rapping peacefully,” he writes. Peaceful, indeed. The event has three rules: “No beef, no aggressive battles, and no bad vibes.” “I usually rap about everything I see in the streets; the unfairness of society, or traffic in Saigon, or my family, my love, and my city,” Kaza explains.

U NDERGROUND

Hip-hop events around Vietnam are still largely random, and not always easy for expats to find. “Some of them don’t even know there’s an underground hip hop scene going on,” says Adrian Rodgers, or Pain, of the band Hazard Clique. A Scot who grew up in Spain, Adrian has been in Vietnam for six years. He started Hazard Clique with a Vietnamese rapper called Black Murder, who he met through one of Vietnam’s biggest underground rap bands, G Family. They brought in a songwriter named Cam, and together, the three of them deliver bilingual, high-energy

shows reminiscent of Western acts like WuTang Clan. “Our style is so classic, that a lot of the modern rappers don’t even know what it is; they were born into the era that Eminem created,” he says. “So some of them, when they see our stuff, they don’t get what we’re doing.” I stumbled upon one of Hazard Clique’s performances while photographing last year’s Quest Festival. It was packed, and the crowd was jumping en masse to the trio’s outstretched arms, bouncing up and down like the conductors of a human symphony. “That was the first time we got to perform on a really big stage with a big crowd in front of a lot of expats. We were really happy with the reaction, and people were asking for more,” Adrian remembers.

P L ATFORM

Even with the lack of regular hip-hop events, more is sure to come; but you may have to dig for it. Luckily, digital platforms are giving the underground room to flourish. “Hip-hop heads in Vietnam depend a lot on the internet,” writes Kaza, who uploads all of his music to Soundcloud, and uses Facebook to promote it. “We [just] released our first music video in Vietnamese. We got about 400,000 views in a couple of weeks,” says Adrian. He hopes this exposure will remind the new generation of Vietnamese rappers about the genre’s roots, and promote creativity instead of cookie-cutter commercialism. Back in the park, Linh has similar dreams for his b-boys. “One day, I hope I can take all of my members to New York.” Driven by a passion for the lifestyle that keeps them dancing every night of the week, it’s only a matter of time. — Jesse Meadows

Hip-Hop B-Boys, rappers and New York

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COVER STORY / PHOTO ESSAY

While You Were Drinking 78 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

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COVER STORY / PHOTO ESSAY

anoi and Saigon wake up as the first neon lights are switched on at night. When the people come out and play, these metropolises illuminate with life. Nights in the city revolve around the people; evenings start with friends and family sharing food and stories after work, relaxing and enjoying their time. Soon, many find themselves ensnared in di nhau, singing, drinking. These photos were taken in the Bui Vien area of Saigon, a location where many people don’t start working until the sun has left the sky. Their nights are filled with energy, selling lottery tickets, gum or snacks to fund their daily life. Some perform on the streets, others work in bars, cafes or restaurants, while a small few play less salubrious games to make their way. To know, enjoy, and love Vietnam is to spend long nights on the streets, talking to the people, and seeing everything there is to offer. — Siân Kavanagh

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COVER STORY / THE SCENE

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herever there’s an urban landscape or a dejected suburb, there’s usually a subculture of young, energetic metal-heads ready to vent their frustration through music. In Vietnam it’s no different. The heavy metal scene in Hanoi is small. A lack of professional bands and the inability of many young people to afford instruments and recording equipment have ensured that the growth of the scene is gradual. It was Saigon that kept the torch lit during the 2000s. Long Ton, a member of progressive cover band Metronome, recounts the work that RockFanClub was doing in the early 2000s, organising monthly shows and even keeping band members close by taking them camping. Bands like Microwave, Little Wings and Unlimited were drawing large crowds and the beer was flowing. But this wasn’t the case in Hanoi back then. While the bright flame of metal burned in Saigon, in Hanoi it was closer to a bunch of LED lights at the bottom of West Lake. All the same, for the last five years or so a growing crowd of young Vietnamese have been regularly showing their faces in support of a niche group of metal, punk and hard-core bands. In recent years, the scene has been gathering more material support and publicity from a dedicated set of distributers, promoters and other creative types.

G ROWING S CENE

In February of this year five people came together to create Rec Room — one of Hanoi’s latest music venues and a spot that is expected to soon be a real mover in the city’s nightlife scene. Koremoto ‘Kore’ Todaka is one of the venue’s joint owners and the man behind First and Last records — a label of Japanese origin dedicated to supporting hard-core bands from Vietnam and beyond. Kore was quick to mention the slow pace of growth in Hanoi’s metal and hard-core scenes. “It’s hard to reach people now. When I was growing up in Japan you would go to the record store and they’d be promoting some great bands, but now you don’t have that.” While it’s true that the scene in Hanoi is still a small blip on the radar, it is now constantly growing, ear by ear. New and more competent bands are making waves and gaining attention. One of the bands that First and Last supports is WindRunner — a five piece hard-core act from Hanoi that’s renowned for their raw live energy and partly for their lead vocalist Duong Bui, a seemingly

innocent five-foot-tall girl with the ability to unleash a voice that would make Oliver Sykes jealous. When asked if people are ever surprised by her talent, Duong replies: “People often mistake me for the tech support or something. The rest of the band is doing their sound check, and then when the music starts and I scream people are, like, whoa!” Kore’s efforts with First and Last records haven’t just been limited to building a scene in Vietnam — earlier this year he took WindRunner on a tour of South Korea — he has constantly been trying to connect the scene in Vietnam to the rest of the world.

FAMILY

No matter who I spoke to, almost everyone had the same thing to say: It’s more than just music, it’s a family. This sentiment is something that’s easily recognisable from other countries’ metal sub-cultures. There is almost always a sense that being involved in metal, punk or hard-core music sets you aside from others — even makes you an outcast in some cases. Out of this, the metal community has arguably built something stronger than any other musical culture — a unified community of expression that defies borders and laughs in the face of conformity. In Vietnam, the pressure to conform is not just cultural; to many people it’s a matter of sink or swim. In a developing economy where the fruits of economic progress are increasingly in plain sight, the prospect of missing out on financial advancement for the sake of following artistic passions can be seen as indefensible. I asked Tuong of WindRunner what draws young Vietnamese to the metal community: “It’s definitely a way to express and to vent frustration — not negative energy, but the frustration of work, of relationships and family pressure.” He adds: “When I’m on stage I take this frustration and I throw it at the crowd, and they take it. They like it! They let go of their frustration too.” Sitting on the roof of Hanoi Creative City, I ask Kore, and Seb, the managing director at Rec Room, what the best thing about being involved in the scene is. “Watching it grow as a movement,” says Seb. Adds Kore: “Being able to support people who have a passion for hard-core music but who don’t have the equipment, and allowing them to play. That’s the best thing. The community.” — Billy Gray You can support WindRunner by following them on Facebook and attending their upcoming shows. Rec Room is now hosting regular events for metal and hard-core music

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COVER STORY / GOING OUT

Expats have bars in this country that are for, well, expats. Owen Salisbury takes three Vietnamese university students round the bars to see how they, and the bars, fare

“G

et some friends; we’ll go to Western bars and drink.” “Western bars?” Phuc asks. He’s 20 years old, a kid I’d tutored from high school through university entrance exams until he outgrew tutoring and grew to become one of my good friends. “Yeah. Bars where foreigners go. The Word will pay for your drinks,” I lie, because he’s the fourth person I’ve asked. “Ok. I can get two or three friends.”

THE EXPERIMENT

I’ve always been curious what Vietnamese people think about hanging out in foreign enclaves, bars and clubs where they are the minority. The main discovery of the evening? These guys, at least, didn’t feel like outsiders as long as they got free food and drink. The trio meets me late at the corner of De Tham and Bui Vien — of course — and we make introductions. “This is Minh,” Phuc says, pointing at the tall one. “This is Linh,” pointing at the guy with stylish hair. We shake hands. “You know what this is about?” They look hesitant, so I explain the premise. One item certainly reaches them. “You’re paying?” Linh asks. “Yup. But one rule, guys. Only English.” They agree. My major peeve about going out with people who speak the same native language is that even if they begin speaking English, they shift away so fast it blows my hair back.

STAGE ONE: THE TOURIST TRAP

We begin our carouse at Phoenix 47, one of those all-in-one Bui Vien watering holes — bar, restaurant, club, source of viscerashaking sonic assault. We settle at an inside table. “So you’re paying?” Minh asks. Desperado and Strongbow girls immediately surround us. Perfect for a chick fight. Ordering three Desperadoes — Phuc hates beer — we receive four, plus a shot each of vodka. I show them how to push the wedge of lime into the bottle. They do it perfectly. Mine jams. “Mot, hai, ba, vo!” We clank glasses;

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foaming beer slops onto the table. I check my watch. About 12 minutes to break my only rule. Of course. “I hate beer,” Phuc mutters. He sips at his vodka. “Nobody likes it their first time. It’s an acquired taste. How do you like vodka?” I ask. “I hate it,” he says, taking another sip. Another acquired taste. Linh drinks both his drinks steadily. No hate there. Food is called for. Minh and Linh ignore the Western grub and get pho bo, which proves something, I’m sure. Phuc and I get vu de nuong and I get cut nuong, complete with crispy little quail head that Phuc crunches down on as I’m swigging my beer. I nearly inhale the lime wedge. Linh grins. “Brains taste good.” I settle the bill. There’s none of the business where everybody reaches for the bill to prove they are the big dog of the group.

STAGE TWO: THE SPORTS BAR

Onward to Phatty’s, which is as Western as you get. Beefy Australian blokes with hands fused to beer mugs watch rugby, cricket and darts on the TVs. No beer this time. We order a jug of mojito, and slowly drain it. They like it, but Phuc still mentions the alcohol burn. “Doesn’t any of this make you uncomfortable? Being the only locals in the place?” Over the low music, we hear the buzz of English from all around. “No,” says Minh. “It’s still our country.” Linh complains of getting itchy, and starts to get the Asian Alcohol Flush. We soon finish with Phatty’s. Though it’s a good place to talk, there’s only so much televised cricket a guy can take.

STAGE THREE: THE BEER CLUB CONTROL GROUP

For our last stop, the others take charge. We drive to Vuvuzela, the popular beer club. The music is about 118 decibels. My single false tooth buzzes in my mouth and a hot sonic spoon stirs my entrails. Young, hip Vietnamese people are laughing and chatting. A waitress thunks down three bottles

and a mug. I take the draft Bitburger and a slow, satisfying sip. Minh and Linh drink their Tiger Crystals. Phuc has ordered a Strongbow hard cider. He tilts his head and drains a third of the bottle. “It tastes like apple juice. No alcohol.” Waiters shoo us out at 11pm. We part ways, and I’m reminded of many nights going out while I was in university — though to be fair, no random dude ever took us out, paid for drinks, and wrote about it for a magazine.

THE CONCLUSION

Rather than strain to make some moral point or grand unifying theme, I’ll end this with Minh, Phuc and Linh themselves describing their experience. Phuc: “This is the first time I drank this much and also the first time I have ever gone to Western pubs and clubs. It’s a new feeling when you see all the foreigners around you. I don’t really like places like this but it interesting to try. However, the price is a bit high for me.” Linh: “For me, these places have reasonable prices. Plus, I enjoy the music, Vietnamese places are too loud. Also, the service is good and professional. The surroundings are also interesting, and the decorators did a good job. I may find more places like this to try out.” Minh: “I have gone to many pubs but these places really catch my interest. The atmosphere is comfortable, unlike most of the Vietnamese ones. Employees treat you really well. The food also has a good taste. I think I will try more western pubs.” So there you have it. The universal language isn’t love, it’s beer. Free beer.

Strangers in the Night

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COVER STORY / GOING OUT

When It's Dark

Have you ever wondered where Vietnamese people go at night? Vu Ha Kim Vy tells you the secrets. Photos by Bao Zoan 86 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

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COVER STORY / GOING OUT

lthough Hanoi has a sometimeenforced midnight curfew, like Saigon, it still has a full range of activities and entertainments at night. While some people go to their favourite quan nhau (restaurant) with their colleagues after work for a few drinks, other just go out for a movie, especially if it’s a special promotion day of the week. All make Hanoi and Saigon hectic and beautifully colourful in a typical Vietnamese way.

N HAU

Nhau is a Vietnamese word meaning a combination of actions including drinking, eating and chitchat. We love nhau, especially Vietnamese men. When it comes to drinking, we don’t have an awareness of time — we could nhau for hours, from 6pm to midnight, as long as we are still able to drink. Some of us also drink during working hours on any day of the week with a popular excuse — “It’s business!” Everyone has their favourite spot for drinking, but the backpacker area (Bui Vien in Saigon and Ta Hien in Hanoi) is a popular choice, as 27-year-old Khoa explains: “Apart from the cheap beer, it’s more fun when you can watch tourists walking along the street.” Areas like Hoang Sa Street, Truong Sa Street or Oc Quan 4 (snails in District 4) in Saigon and the hundreds of bia hois in Hanoi are also popular as in these places you can get a wide range of food and drinks at affordable prices. Those who love enjoying their beer with a loud dance music background go to beer clubs like Fox (21 Ham Nghi, Q1, HCMC), POC POC (39 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, HCMC) or Vuvuzela in Hanoi and Saigon.

C AFÉ AND TR A C HANH

Similar to nhau, people who go to cafés are usually searching for a place to talk with friends in a calmer and more decorous environment. While some people always stick with high-end coffee house chains like Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf or Highlands Coffee, other express their distinctive styles through unique well-decorated cafés like Ut Lanh (Flr. 8, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1, HCMC), 81 Café (216B Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, HCMC), Lissom Parlour (68 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi) or Cong Ca Phe in both cities. For better views and cheaper drinks, we usually do ca phe bet (sitting on the ground) at parks including 30/4 or 23/9 in Saigon, or tra chanh chem gio (chitchat with lime tea) in the area around St. Joseph’s Cathedral or Tu So Market in Hanoi.

S ELFIES AND P HOTOS

Two popular places in Saigon for taking selfies and photos are Nguyen Hue Walking

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Street and Starlight Bridge in District 7, while in Hanoi teenagers prefer West Lake and Hoan Kiem Lake for their photographs. In fact, we take selfies and photos everywhere. The main reason we come to these places is because of the location, view, space and atmosphere. Food and drinks are also available.

PARKS , G UESTHOUSES AND W INDOW S HOPPING

Most Vietnamese people still live with their parents until they get married, and cosy intimacies such as kissing or cuddling is still a taboo both in public and at home. My mother gave me a serious talking-to one time when I let my male best friend in my room when I was around 20. Therefore, Vietnamese couples, especially students, like to find themselves at quiet, dark and free entrance parks. Sometimes things get out of hand romantically, which is why there are many guesthouses nearby with by-the-hour rooms for rent. Aside from actually buying anything, supermalls have been favourite hangouts for a long while because they have expensive shops, escalators, airy spaces, welldecorated corners, and public benches with comfortable cushions. And most of all they have air conditioners that we can use for free, especially useful on summer nights. Unlike normal local markets, we can take a look and touch fancy products without purchasing them. In addition, a wide range of food and drinks at supermalls is also a popular draw.

E NTERTAINMENT C OMPLEXES

According to Thuy, whom I first met at Saigon 3A Station (3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC), the reason she loves hanging out there is it’s convenient to enjoy different things (coffee, beer, art, shopping and eating) at the same time without travelling far. “These areas are usually designed and decorated in a unique and eyecatching style,” she says. “I come here for photographs also.” While young Saigon people have other complexes including Saigon Garden (99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC) and Mason Bato (43 Nguyen Van Giai, Q1, HCMC) as well as other options at weekends, Hanoi teenagers have Hanoi Creative City (1 Luong Yen, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi) as a place for everything and The Yard (67 Pho Duc Trinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi). Note: Like other countries, Vietnamese people also go to the cinema, theatre, karaoke, night markets, live music shows and more at night, depending on their mood and what they feel like. However, they are not mentioned in this article, as the writer wants to focus on the most typical places Vietnamese people like to hang out.

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Food and Drink

EAT & DRINK

HANOI

Where to BYOB in Hanoi Want to save some dong and bring your own? Here are some options. Words by Jesse Meadows. Photos by Theo Lowenstein

he expat bar scene can be fun, for a while. But the same haunts every weekend get boring eventually, and you start to wonder if all those hours spent on a barstool could be full of so much more. I get it, you still want to drink. And lucky for you, Hanoi is a bring-your-own-beverage kind of city. There’s romance and adventure out there, if you’re willing to go looking for it. So give your usual haunts a miss one Friday night and go outside instead. Here are a few spots in Hanoi to chill with a bag full of beers when the bia hoi just isn’t doing it for you anymore.

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Nhat Tan Bridge

hat better place to have a beverage with your favourite partner-in-crime than the Friendship Bridge? Built by the Japanese and officially opened for business in early 2015, it’s Vietnam’s largest cable suspension bridge. This eight-lane beast is formidable to cross, and boasts epic views of the Red River and the city skyline. Along both sides you’ll find couples canoodling and teenagers posing for selfies; park somewhere near the middle, away from the crowds, and peer over the railing. There’s a wide chunk of cement where you can perch on the other side, if you’re willing to risk the view. (It’s worth it.) At night, the river far below is pitch black and a bit terrifying Crack open a cold one and take in the twinkling skyline, the rhythm of traffic behind you and the steady winds creating the perfect backdrop for some cinematic heart-to-hearts with your friends, or an invigorating first beer to kick off an adventurous night.

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Truc Bach Swan Boats

alled affectionately the ‘Swan Boat Regatta’, this is a more active option for your BYOB needs. Cycle your massive swan (with decidedly chicken-esque features) out into the middle of Truch Bach Lake, beer in hand, and tell yourself it’s good for you, because technically, it’s exercise. (Bonus exercise can be achieved if one of the boats in your fleet breaks down, and you have to tow them back to shore like we did.) It’s only VND80,000 for an hour on a two-person swan, so for the price of one cocktail and 30 stagnant minutes on a bar stool, you can work up a sweat and a blood-alcohol level. A steal of a deal, I’d say.

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West Lake’s Steps

h, West Lake, Hanoi’s largest body of water, how we love to drink next to you. Riding around the lake road, you’ll find many spots to crack open a brew, but my favourite are the wide steps that lead straight down into the water. This one’s easy — you don’t even have to bring your own beverages. Savvy tea ladies are happy to provide you with a bamboo mat and a Bia Ha Noi. Some might even cook up some fried pork fingers for you, too. Laying on the steps, listening to the waves, and giggling with your drinking buddies about the weekend’s shenanigans — there aren’t many better ways to spend an evening.

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The Ferris Wheel at Ho Tay Water Park

360-degree view of the city? Check. Eerily empty carnival grounds at dusk? Check. Beer in the backpack? Check check check. Get there around sunset for breathtaking scenery, or right before a storm rolls in over West Lake. It only costs VND20,000 to get into the park, and another VND30,000 for a Ferris wheel ride. You can make a day of it if you prefer, but when we went around 7pm, there was no one else in sight. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kind of like your own personal theme park. The Ferris wheel is massive, and instead of the bench seats youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d expect, little caged-in pods hang from the wheel, gently swaying along as they pull you up into the sky. You could feasibly fit four people in one, and an entire revolution takes about five minutes. Who can drink the most beers before you reach the ground again? Find out, then hit the rollercoaster.

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Food and Drink

EAT & DRINK

HANOI

Weird Vietnamese Food in Hanoi

he taste buds of Eastern and Western people are tickled in hugely different ways, and it took some work on my hang-ups before I could set out with an empty stomach and an open mind to track down some of the more unusual dishes Hanoi has to offer.

Forget chicken, beef, fish and shrimp, time to try out all that’s weird and wonderful on the Hanoi cuisine scene. Edward Dalton hits the weird food hotspots in the capital with not a dog or cat in sight. Photos by Julie Vola

Roasted Cicadas and Ant Eggs

Fertilised Quail Eggs and Mixed Boiled Snails In Vietnamese: Cut lon xao me and oc luoc Where: Oc 66, 66 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Hanoi Weird Analysis: Various types of snail are eaten in many countries, but are still not entirely mainstream for foreign visitors to those countries. Fertilised quail eggs are a common dish among in Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

he fertilised quail eggs are best served in tamarind sauce and are small enough to fit on a teaspoon. They’re still quite young, so identifying the constituent parts of the semi-formed quail is (thankfully) quite difficult. As your teeth bite through

one, you will notice a range of textures revealing themselves one after the other, ranging from soft boiled egg white to firm and chewy cartilage. The rich fatty taste of a normal egg yolk is amplified, but the tamarind sauce helps to even things out.

In Vietnamese: Ve sau rang la chanh and xoi trung kien Where: Quan Kien, 143 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Hanoi Weird Analysis: Most insects are not often found on the city-dwelling Vietnamese dinner table, but do find more popularity in mountainous regions and the countryside. Experts laud the nutritional qualities and environmentally friendly farming that edible insects offer.

icadas are a type of jumping bug, but after being well and truly roasted with lime leaves you will need chopsticks to help them into your mouth. The texture is mostly crispy with a slightly softer interior. Flavour-wise, they tickled my umami sensors to the point where they actually became quite addictive

— almost reminding me of bacon crisps. The ant eggs can be served in a variety of guises, but I ordered the simplest version which just came with sticky rice. A really savoury and thoroughly satisfying dish, the ant eggs had the texture of stuffing, and blended well with the sticky rice grains and crispy shallots sprinkled on top.

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Fertilised Duck Eggs In Vietnamese: Trung vit lon Where: Street vendor outside 46 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Hanoi Weird Analysis: A dish unlikely to win any awards for aesthetics, the infamous balut, or fertilised duck egg, is surely the pinnacle of weird food, despite being a common dish in Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

est enjoyed with a blindfold and a litre of vodka to dull the senses, the fertilised duck egg is served without any bells or whistles. A sprinkle of salt and pepper, a handful of herbs and a few shreds of ginger are all that stand between you and

an attack on the taste buds not soon forgotten. Similar in taste and texture to the fertilised quail egg, but bigger and bolder. I’m told if you poke around inside a bit, you can find the little half-formed duck head somewhere. No thanks.

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Goat Udders, Penis, Testes and Brains In Vietnamese: Nam de nuong, ngau pin de and oc de Where: De Dui 269, 269A Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Weird Analysis: Penis and testes of various animals are consumed in the Middle East, as well as in China. Brain can be found around the world, even served in sandwiches in Missouri, USA. Udders are less popular, but can be found in France sold by the slice.

t the risk of making a tasteless joke, it’s fair to say goats are not ‘blessed’. The penises and testes were rather small, as were the udders. The brain, however, was served whole in a bowl of wormwood broth. Our goat feast guide, local chef Shahar Lubin from Daluva, took charge of grilling the goat’s extremities at the table. The penises were mild in flavour, but incredibly tough

to chew, almost like a mouthful of jumbo rubber bands. Udders were similarly chewy, but possible to break up enough to swallow with a very faint fatty taste. A testis is softer, and best dipped into a bean sauce. The brain had a texture somewhere between thick double cream and soft scrambled eggs, and mostly tasted of the herbal broth it was served in; surprisingly tasty.

Crickets, Locusts and Frog Skins

Silk Worms and Sand Worm Omelettes In Vietnamese: Con nhong and cha ruoi Where: Highway4, 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Weird Analysis: Anything worm-like is bound to raise a few eyebrows among Western visitors to Hanoi, where locals consider the seasonally available sand worms as a luxurious treat worth freezing for future use.

ot usually available during this season, the samples we ate had to be specially procured by Dan Dockery from Highway4. The silkworms had a very lightly crisped exterior with a soft and creamy interior, possessing an earthy and faintly gritty taste. Dipped in

salted spicy lime juice, they were reasonably pleasant. The sand worms are mixed into an omelette with orange zest and dill, and were surprisingly delicious. This dish was halfway between a pork burger and an eggy fritter, and was thoroughly enjoyable.

In Vietnamese: De men, chau chau and da ech chien Where: Highway4, 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Weird Analysis: Frog meat is reasonably common in Southeast Asia, Iberia and parts of Southwestern Europe, Greece and the USA. Around 2.5 billion people consume insects as a regular part of their diets.

ack to Highway4 again for more commonly available menu items. Dan says the insects are the perfect bar snack as they are salty, crispy and savoury. The crickets were fried with lime leaves and pig fat, and similar in texture to the cicadas, although with

a slightly bitter aftertaste. The locusts were somewhat blander, but dipped into a sauce made for a decent snack. The frog skins were fried with betel leaves, and had a strong crunch Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d usually associate with a premium bag of crisps â&#x20AC;&#x201D; pretty tasty with a salty dip.

An Afterthought As a guide to weird food available in Hanoi, this list is far from comprehensive. Many of the dishes here are fairly common around Vietnam, as is nom sua (jellyfish salad) and chao long (pig innards). There are even popular Vietnamese foods known

to foreigners which can be weirded up if you know where to look. Banh cuon, for example, is a very popular breakfast and lunchtime dish, but becomes even better if you have a drop of tinh dau ca cuong (stink beetle essence) added to the dipping sauce.

Although my mum might still recoil when I tell her that creamy brains are on the next Christmas lunch menu, I hope everyone else will use this guide as a starting point to experience more Vietnamese cuisine than just pho bo and bun cha Obama.

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Food and Drink TOP EATS

HANOI

Rosemary Kitchen and Sandwicherie

s food concepts go, the humble sandwich is about as simple as it gets, and is enjoyed in various forms all over the world. Rosemary Kitchen and Sandwicherie is one of a growing number of Hanoi sandwich joints taking a step away from the locally revered banh mi in favour of sliced bread and more imaginative fillings. Opened in April 2015 by friends Hanh Nguyen and Hanh Bui, they have baked and buttered their way to the forefront of the Hanoi sandwich scene with an impressive portfolio of shared skills. In charge of the menu and quality control is

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Ms Nguyen, while Ms Bui, a keen cupcake connoisseur, sees to the managing and marketing side of things.

John Montagu’s Legacy Despite boasting a popular delivery service, I recommend a visit in person. Rosemary is tucked away in a characterful back street near to St. Joseph’s Cathedral in the Old Quarter. Enhanced with colourful photos and mellow music, a handful of tables in a modest dining room are the ideal location to enjoy the simple glory of the sandwich. The first-ever Rosemary menu was almost as simple as the order of cold meat

between two slices of bread attributed to the eponymous 18th-century British statesman, John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich. Today’s menu, however, is almost unrecognisable by comparison. Grilled toasties and filled croissants have been added, while the flavours on offer have also markedly increased, with nine fillings for sandwiches and toasties, and six types of salad and croissants now available. Only homemade bread is used here, coming in either whole-wheat or dark rye varieties. It’s so good that they sell it by the loaf to sandwich enthusiasts all over Hanoi. Our meal began with a nostalgic

PHOTOS BY THEO LOWENSTEIN

taste of home, as the roasted beef sandwich (VND59,000) tasted like Sunday on sliced bread. Pieces of tender beef layered with caramelised onions and green peppers dripping in a gravy sauce — delicious.

Do You Want Muffins With That? Despite every order coming with a free side of potato wedges or side salad, we decided that at least two more sandwiches would be needed to satisfy our big Western bellies. Next up was the heroically named Olympian’s choice sandwich (VND59,000). Roast chicken, smoked bacon, fried egg and some token leaves and tomatoes

all played second fiddle to the sublime sauce within. Ms Nguyen told me it’s a mayonnaise-based sauce livened up with some chilli, yoghurt and black pepper. In a laughable attempt to be healthy, we finished off with the veggie lovers’ sandwich (VND54,000). With pesto sauce and a filling of grilled eggplant, zucchini, capsicum and imported cheddar cheese, it was not bad. Unfortunately, even that thick, gooey layer of cheesy goodness couldn’t compensate for a slightly bitter veggie after-taste. The salads (VND39,000 to VND49,000) offer further options to those watching

their waistlines, while the muffins act as an almost guilt-free treat to end the meal, in flavours such as banana and oats, or wholewheat blueberry (VND25,000). The drink selection includes smoothies, soft drinks and teas; and they even stock Saigon Beer. Rosemary is a great place for visitors to get a break from pho without paying over the odds, and for Westerners living in Hanoi, Rosemary is the comforting taste of home. — Edward Dalton Rosemary Kitchen and Sandwicherie is located at 7 Tho Xuong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Open daily from 9am to 9pm. Delivery is available on (04) 6259 2206

Food and Drink

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STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Banh Cuon Phu Ly There are many types of banh cuon or steamed rice paper rolls. The version from Phu Ly just south of Hanoi is one of the best. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Julie Vola

lthough beef and chicken are the usual meats served up with pho, it doesn’t mean pho is not tasty when it is paired with alternatives, like pho with roasted duck or pho vit quay. It may sound strange but it tastes delicious. Banh cuon or steamed rice roll is another example. Banh cuon, which is typically made from two main ingredients: steamed rice sheets and fillings served with hot dipping sauce, is Hanoi’s traditional way of enjoying this dish. In different countryside areas of Northern Vietnam, banh cuon is popularly served with cooled rice sheets. Among these areas, Ha Nam is well known for its banh cuon Phu Ly — which is now available in some eateries in Hanoi. Different from Hanoi’s banh cuon, banh cuon Phu Ly is served with cooled thin rice sheets and without fillings. And instead of Vietnamese pork sausage or cha lua, it is paired with grilled pork side (bacon) and meat balls, called cha — which is one of the two ingredients of bun cha. Besides a plate of rice sheets topped with cha and fried onions, diners also get a bowl of dipping sauce and a plate of fresh herbs.

Cha without the Bun According to the owner of Banh Cuon Phu

Ly Ngan Ha, the key elements of creating tasty banh cuon are the rice sheets and the dipping sauce. The sauce should be both light, delicate yet flavourful. Being a well-blended condiment, it enhances the flavour of the rice sheets. “I always recommend our diners use plenty of sauce and dip transparent rice sheets down into the sauce — that’s the idea behind the sauce, together with the fried onions. They add flavour to the thin, silky rice sheets.” Every day, packs of cool and fresh, silky rice sheets are transported from Ha Nam to serve up in Ngan Ha’s three different eateries in Hanoi. In additional to tasty dipping sauce and light rice sheets, they also offer appetizing and delicious cha — grilled pork belly and meat balls. “The pork belly is carefully chosen and grilled fresh each morning before diners arrive,” said the owner. “We like to emphasize the raw taste of the meat itself, that’s why both fresh pork belly and meat balls are marinated with nuoc mam before being grilled, instead of using other condiments, such as onions or garlic.” That may be the reason why the cha offered on the table is fresh, sweet and rich — a perfect add-on to the rice sheet

and dipping sauce, making a harmonious and delightful version of cool banh cuon.

Eaten Like Bun? In Phu Ly, Ha Nam, where this version of banh cuon originates, locals use a bowl of dipping sauce and put all the meat into the bowl — similar to the way Hanoians eat bun cha. “I do not serve the meat that way and recommend diners in Hanoi dip the rice sheets and meat into the bowl each time they try,” said the owner. “If the meat is in the sauce for too long, it loses its consistency, texture and taste.” When the heat becomes oppressive, there’s no better choice than light and delicate, yet flavourful rolls of banh cuon. That’s why people in Hanoi eat banh cuon for breakfast, lunch or even a nightime pick-me-up. Some people may still prefer the traditional Hanoi version of banh cuon, yet this different version is worth a try. Especially if you like your bun cha. You can find Banh Cuon Phu Ly Ngan Ha at 39 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or 45 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Banh cuon is priced from VND 20,000 to VND30,000 per serving. They also offer mixed bun cha at VND30,000

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Food and Drink

MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

‘Namo Artisanal Pizzeria

It has set up roots in one of the best locations in town, and it’s certainly drawing in the customers. But what does our mystery diner think? Photos by Bao Zoan

word I’ve long feared has finally reached the Ho Chi Minh City restaurant scene: artisanal. Not the concept — who doesn’t love traditional homemade food — but the word being tacked willynilly onto every new restaurant and foodstuff. It conjures airs of greying master pasta-smiths hand chiselling single penne noodles, or of a stern matron eying apprentices as they labour in the gnocchi mill. Or perhaps I’ve got an overactive imagination. ‘Namo Artisanal Pizza may be the sort of restaurant where the name is more than a buzzword, and I was resolved to find out.

Dinner and a Show First impressions favoured ‘Namo;

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the ground floor has a long sinuous counter of white marble behind which the sauciers, pizzaiolos and sundry chefs toil. Any restaurant that demands you watch them cooking, has the right kind of ego to survive in a cutthroat business, and nothing to hide. It’s practically dinner and a show. The rest of the décor downstairs seemed okay; for the dimly lit dining room, the other show is the streetscene on Hai Ba Trung. Though late on a weekday night, a hostess whisked me to a table, with menus in hand before I’d settled into my seat. A nice beginning, but the proof of the restaurant is in the eating. So I ordered a glass of Terre Allegre red wine (VND120,000, and

quite good at that cost) and my usual bottle of San Pellegrino (VND90,000 for a half litre, or what you normally pay for 75cl) and turned a stern eye on the menu.

Easily Satisfied by the Best of Everything For those of you who read the periodic reviews of Italian restaurants in the Word, you may have noticed certain dishes cropping up over and over: pizza Diavola and pasta all’Amatriciana. The reason is that both dishes are simple yet exacting and require ingredients whose quality must be high. In short, two dishes provide a decent snapshot of a restaurant’s inner workings. The bucatini all’Amatriciana (VND270,000) certainly passed

THE VERDICT

13 FOOD

SERVICE

12 DÉCOR

the test in every way but one; the spaghetti-like noodles were dense and near-chewy, obviously high quality, and perfectly cooked. The sauce was cheerful and tangy with tomatoes, a hint of heat from the red peppers. Most of all, the meat was not the limp bacon served in many restaurants but imported guanciale; the good stuff that deserves a name like artisanal because it takes a craftsman to smoke pork cheeks properly. So what was lacking? The unmistakable sharp, nutty smokiness of pecorino cheese… or at least enough to properly balance the dish. I also found the portion small for the price.

Pizza of the Devil ‘Namo has evolved their own

version of a pizza Diavola (VND390,000) that includes ‘nduja, the famous spreadable sausage, as well as the expected spicy salami and mozzarella. Wood-fire simply cooks pizza better, crisping the crust and bubbling the cheese quickly and leaving the faintest hint of smoke over everything. The pizza was averaged-size for local Italian places, but at that price… well. Tiramisu (VND150,000), a double espresso (VND75,000) and a free limoncello ended the night, another favourite combination of mine. The limoncello is a tart treat house-made by the chef and only sporadically available. It’s also not officially on the menu. All three were excellent; the tiramisu came with ladyfingers in the shape of

pancakes, an attractive innovation. The cake was moist, not soaked, and the mascarpone more sauce than spread. The espresso was rich and dark. So all in all, the food, décor and service were good. Here’s my serious reservation: the price. I ate a hefty meal and had leftovers, but I also know places where three can dine quite as well for the total cost of VND1.26 million. So while I certainly enjoyed ‘Namo Artisanal Pizza, the premium here is quite obviously for the location (it’s behind the Opera House) and the show — the pastasmiths at work, laboriously carving each noodle. ‘Namo Artisinal Pizzeria is located at 76/4 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, HCMC. Its website is namo.pizza

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food and Drink STREET SNACKER

HCMC

The Journey of Banh Duc Found universally throughout Vietnam, despite its variations, banh duc remains the ‘dish of the poor person’. Words by Vi Pham. Photos by Siân Kavanagh

treet food has its own story, especially in Saigon which is always vibrant with sidewalk cuisine. But when it comes to the dish that has travelled all over Vietnam and is loved in different shapes and forms, banh duc surely carries the most stories. It used to be one of the most popular street foods before urbanisation took hold

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and moved away the people who had mastered the skill of making this squarecut rice cake served up in banana leaves. Originating in northern Vietnam, banh duc comes in many forms. In the north, there is banh duc nong (hot banh duc with pork and vegetables). In central Vietnam, there is banh duc man (cool banh duc with shredded shrimp). In Saigon, there is banh duc ngot

(cool banh duc with sweet coconut cream, pork and herbs). There is also a dessert version where it is topped with sesame seeds and caramel — this is widely consumed in the Mekong Delta. From the north to the south, there may be 20 types of banh duc.

The Dish of the Penniless Despite the diversity and the popularity of

this rice cake, people still refer to it as “the dish of the poor” because of its simple rustic recipe. With only rice flour and water as the basic ingredients, banh duc is cheap to make and cheap to buy. In the past, when vendors still carried banh duc around on their shoulder poles, they would sing out the dish’s name to let everyone know about their goods, and move slower after every word to see if anyone would order the fresh steamed banh duc cubes wrapped in banana leaves, topped with coconut sauce, nuoc mam ngot (sweetened nuoc mam) and homegrown herbs. When asked about the dish, my father recalls him and his friends chasing a banh duc seller to buy lunch for their day in the fields looking after the family’s cows, shouting to attract the attention of “granny banh duc” who had moved quite a distance from the field. “With just a few pennies, we could buy a full meal,” says my father. “Banh duc was one of the top choices for us poor kids, especially since you didn’t have to wash the container after eating, but fed it to the calves.” Banh duc, as remembered by my grandma, was a typical street food. Saigon’s sidewalks during the 1970s and the 1980s were filled with banh duc vendors, either on shoulder

poles or on an old bicycle with a big bamboo basket on the back. It was the comfort food for anyone from any class of Saigon, from workers to students. Customers could eat directly from the sellers’ small bowls or order a to-go version wrapped in leaves.

Hard Worked Recipe As affordable as it is, banh duc leaves an impression from the first bite. The richness in every cube of this cake represents a homey Vietnamese flavour of well blended and filtered rice flour, leaving a memorable aftertaste, especially when served with sweet coconut cream. But to achieve such richness and the silky texture of the dish, the maker has to select and handle the ingredients with care. The complexity of making banh duc can make you wonder why it is so inexpensive. The rice seeds must be harvested at least one year before making the dish. If the rice is too fresh and new, the dish will turn into a floppy mess after steaming. Rice flour that has been around for more than a year helps smoothen the texture and maintain the chewiness. Even the grinding process requires dedication. In the old days, rice flour was all ground

by hand. First, the seeds were soaked in fresh water for three days. Using a stone grinder, banh duc makers would carefully move the heavy handles in circles for quite a long time to ensure that every seed was well crushed. Perhaps all this hard work has led to a decrease in the business of banh duc. These days there are electric grinders to help with the grinding process and as rice flour is available in most places, the makers skip all the traditional steps. Unfortunately, the taste has definitely not stayed the same. If the sellers could once easily be found going from house to house in the city’s alleys, it is rare to find one these days. In Saigon, the best place now to find banh duc is around and inside the markets. You’ll recognise a vendor from their simple sales booth or shoulder poles with no stove, no fire or complicated equipment. It will just be the blocks of banh duc, cans of nuoc mam, coconut cream and some additional toppings such as pork, pickled vegetables and fresh herbs. You can buy a plate of banh duc from VND10,000 to VND50,000 in and around Ben Thanh and Tan Dinh Markets (District 1), Binh Tay Market (District 5) and Ba Chieu Market (Binh Thanh)

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Travel

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TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

The Nuclear Missile Base

On a trip to Ukraine, Nick Ross heads to Pervomaisk, the only former nuclear missile base in the world open to visitors

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“Except for Nagasaki and Hiroshima, so far we’ve avoided a nuclear catastrophe. Pervomaisk is an important living reminder of our ability to destroy not just ourselves and each other, but the planet upon which we live”

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s an impressionable 15-year-old growing up to a background of perestroika, glasnost and the Cold War, I convinced myself after a series of history lessons on Eastern Europe and the Soviet Union that I was a Marxist. I bought the Lenin t-shirt, dipped into The Communist Manifesto and proclaimed my opposition to all things Reagan and Thatcher. It was an act of teenage rebellion. A year later the Berlin Wall came down and the Soviet Union began to unravel. By this stage I had already decided to become a politician — I wanted to change the world — but with the speed of the collapse I downsized a bit and instead set my sights on being a journalist. Despite years of living in the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, that fascination with the Cold War has never quite left my blood.

So when I had the opportunity to visit a nuclear missile base in southern Ukraine — definitely one of those once-in-a-lifetime trips — I decided it was something I had to do. Whatever one’s views on nuclear deterrence, disarmament and proliferation, we know what a nuclear war could do to this planet. Would a trip to the Pervomaisk Nuclear Missile Base be supporting nuclear war? After reading up on the place, I decided not. It also required embarking on a 600km round trip south of Kiev, all in a day. Would it be worth it? As I discovered, yes.

Ground Control to Major Tom Like so many war museums I’ve been to in the East, when you enter the base it starts with tanks, artillery, weaponry and other toys of war. These are all accompanied by a selection of decommissioned nuclear

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“It was from here that the base’s missiles were controlled… here that men could play God and press the red button. Except that unlike in the movies, the button was grey”

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warheads and a museum providing background not only to the base itself, but to the horrors of nuclear war. So far pretty interesting, but not interesting enough to travel all that way for. It was when we went underground to the command post that the trip changed. We walked through dimly lit corridors, climbed through hatches, entered living quarters and descended 33 metres by lift to the bottom of a 12-storey metal capsule. It was from here that the baseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s missiles were controlled, here that men lived out their lives weeks at a time in the shadow of the Cold War, here that men could play God and press the red button. Except that unlike in the movies, the button was grey.

This was the place where faceless men had the future of the world at their fingertips. This was also the place where these same men could find shelter in the event of a nuclear war wiping out the world above. For a moment I stood alone taking photos in the control room. Pressing the button myself was amusing, funny, exciting, as was taking photos of the Soviet-style command centre. Then I stopped. There was nothing funny about this. Except for Nagasaki and Hiroshima, so far weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve avoided a nuclear catastrophe. Pervomaisk is an important living reminder of our ability to destroy not just ourselves and each other, but the planet upon which we live.

Information A number of tours run to Pervomaisk Nuclear Missile Base (not to be confused with Pervomaysk in Luhansk). However, the place is not frequented by Western tourists â&#x20AC;&#x201D; most of the visitors are Russian. A group tour costs around EUR100 (VND2.5 million) per person or EUR200 if you go by yourself and includes a guide to take you around the base. I went with Chernobyl Welcome (chernobylwel.com). The day trip including the journey and a tour of the base takes about 10 hours. For more information, do a search for Pervomaisk on Google.

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Travel

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TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

Luang Prabang Vu Ha Kim Vy explores Luang Prabang, a small city in Laos surrounded by rivers and forested mountains, to find out what is hidden inside

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friend told me he would choose Luang Prabang to settle down in, as it’s the most relaxing and amiable city he has ever visited. Located 425km north of Vientiane, Luang Prabang is Laos’ former royal capital and is recognised as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Some say it looks like a mix between Hoi An — with its rows of old houses and lanterns lit up at night — and Sapa with hilly roads and smoky streetside BBQ eateries. I found

Luang Prabang interestingly different, full of charm, attractive architecture and culture.

City Tour Luang Prabang is small and well known for its Buddhist flavour. Clichéd images of monks in their saffron robes are everywhere, as are wats (temples). This former royal capital has 33 temples that have been preserved for over 500 years. To this day Luang Prabang is the centre of Buddhist learning in Laos.

While most of the houses are built in the French colonial style, with one or two storeys painted white, wooden window shutters and doors, and tiled roofs, the temples are made of stone and richly decorated with sculptures, engravings, paintings, gilding and furniture pieces. The architectural influence here is distinctly Thai and Khmer, as is the Buddhism practiced — Theravada. You can find those design elements at prominent temples including Wat Xieng Thong (entrance is 20,000 kip / VND55,000

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;While most of the houses are built in the French colonial style, the temples are made of stone and richly decorated with sculptures, engravings, paintings, gilding and furniture pieces. The architectural influence here is distinctly Thai and Khmerâ&#x20AC;?

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“Heading up to the sound of the falls, my jaw dropped when I reached the shallow pools with turquoise water next to many small cascades… The further we hiked upstream, the more picturesque it became”

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per person), Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham (10,000 kip / VND28,000) or Haw Pha Bang. Mount Phousi is another must-see. Located opposite the Royal Palace, it’s 100 metres high and is the perfect spot to watch the sun rise or set with a full view of the city and the mountains in distance. On top of Phousi, there is a small temple and a golden stupa. Entrance is 20,000 kip / VND55,000 per person.

Food and Specialities If you have ever been to a local Vietnamese market, you will quickly realise that Luang Prabang’s markets are not that much different. The city has two main markets, set up along the streets — one in the morning and the other at night. While the morning market focuses on food and drink, the night option is more about souvenirs and clothes. Located near the Royal Palace Museum along Sanasongkham Road, the morning market is a colourful and lively canvas of daily life with vegetables, sacks of rice, fresh fish, cooked insects and piles of spices. There are also ready-to-eat dishes like charcoalgrilled fish, chicken wings and Lao sausages that you can try on the spot. Since the vendors start to wrap up around 10am, make sure to be there early to get the best quality products. The night market runs from 5pm to 10pm, prior to the whole town closing down at 11pm. Set up on Sisavangvong Road, sandwiched between Mount Phousi and the Royal Palace Museum, the market is a

good place for travel gifts such as sarongs, miniature Buddha statues or handcrafted silver jewellery. Its desserts are also a highlight with crepe and fruit and Lao coconut cake stands.

Kuang Si Falls Two other attractions that tourists should visit in Luang Prabang are Kuang Si Falls and Pak Ou Caves. Both are 30km away from the centre of the city, but in opposite directions. As my friend and I didn’t have enough time to visit them both, we decided to go to the falls, as we were told it has more things to see and we could enjoy a swim if we wanted to. According to our tuk-tuk driver, it normally takes up to one hour to drive to Kuang Si because of the snaking hill road. The trip was stunning thanks to the scenic views — rice paddies, local villages and green hills. After paying the 20,000 kip entrance fee, we stopped at a bear rescue centre which is supported by the Free The Bears Fund. You can either watch the rescued bears playing from a platform or support the fund by purchasing T-shirts or key rings. Heading up to the sound of the falls, my jaw dropped when I reached the shallow pools with turquoise water next to many small cascades (three to five metres high). There were a dozen or so tourists soaking in the pools. The further we hiked upstream, the more picturesque it became. Following the trail on the left to the top

(despite the warning signs), I was glad to be wearing a pair of running shoes, the clay soil made the going slippery. At the top, the waterfall looked like a turquoise silk scarf. As we had a flight back to Vietnam in the afternoon of the same day, we couldn’t get in a shared tuk-tuk (50,000 kip/VND138,000) with other travellers because the driver only leaves when he has a complement of at least four passengers. We paid double the normal price for the return journey but we were happy. The trip to Kuang Si Falls was worth every penny.

Information There is no direct flight from Saigon to Luang Prabang. You have to fly either to Hanoi or Vientiane then to fly to the city. For flights, visit vietnamairlines.com. As a tourist city, Luang Prabang has the full range of accommodation. Depending on your needs, you can stay at either The Sofitel (from US$190 / VND4.2 million per night, sofitel.com) or somewhere like LPQ Backpackers Hostel (from US$10 / VND220,000 per night, book through agoda.com) Restaurants, from Lao traditional dishes to international fare, line Sisavangvong Road and the roads along the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. For Lao street food at bargain prices, go to the night market.

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DESTINATION ZERO SOFITEL LUANG PRABANG

eeding two flights to reach a destination for a short holiday is never a comfortable experience, yet Sofitel Luang Prabang was worth much more than that effort. Luxuriating in the stillness and holiness of Laos’ ancient capital, the Accor-managed hotel quietly nestles in a part of the city a leisurely 15-minute cycle ride from its centre. Set in a former French Governor’s residence in a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the hotel is aware of its burden to preserve and continue the creative development of not only the surroundings but also Laotian culture and the local ambience.

An Over Indulgence A collection of 25 suites, a botanical garden, an amethyst-tiled pool and the Governor’s Grill — the only steakhouse in Luang Prabang — are all packed into a compact area. Depending on the style and size of the room booked, along with a private garden, each room will have either a pool or a gazebo with an over-sized bathtub.

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PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY

At the intersection between the reception and the residence, Sofitel has also placed two giant century-old stilt houses — one side holds Le Spa and a fitness room; the other side consists of a prayer house upstairs and the kitchen underneath. While Le Spa offers treatments and therapies combining ancient Lao and modern healing techniques, the kitchen was where I learnt how to make traditional Lao dishes including name dip (fresh spring rolls), mhok het (steamed mushrooms in banana leaf), phanaeng kai (chicken curry) and oua si khai (stuffed lemongrass with chicken).

Cultural and Spiritual Values A getaway is more perfect when it can address not just physical and mental requirements, but also cultural and spiritual values. And I found those at Sofitel. I learnt that, as a guest, you should light incense and pray at Lao traditional spirit houses that are usually placed at a corner of the front of the house when you first come. “You can place your hands together or

bow if you want. This will give you peace and health,” a staff member told me. I also participated in a Lao traditional ritual, which predates even Buddhism, known as baci. According to Pablo Barruti — the general manager of the Sofitel Luang Prabang — village elders gather at the ceremony to pray and tie white strings around the attendees’ wrists to preserve good luck and health. Baci is used to celebrate important events and occasions, like weddings, births, beginning a new year and welcoming guests. Giving alms to monks, another Lao tradition, is also one of the beauties of this UNESCO-protected city, and one which I was lucky enough to take part in. The hotel will prepare cooked rice that you give away to the monks who walk around the town every morning. All you have to do is get up at 5am. A trip to Sofitel Luang Prabang is a treat for both body and soul. —Vu Ha Kim Vy For more info, please visit facebook.com/ SofitelLuangPrabang

PHOTOS BY SOFITEL LUANG PRABANG

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Travel

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888

anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444

dalatpalace.vn

This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

fortuna.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999

dalatgreencityhotel.com

Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555

contact@hoteldelopera.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365

dalattrainvilla.com

Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555

hanoi-daewoohotel.com

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Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396

hanoi.hgi.com

With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500

hanoi.hilton.com

Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888

hanoi.intercontinental.com

This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club. JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

jwmarriotthanoi.com

From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688

maydeville.com

The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343

meliahanoi.com

Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800

moevenpick-hanoi.com

With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. NOVOTEL SUITES 5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3576 6666

novotel.com/9813

Suites and apartments with all the mod cons and attrac-

tive décor you’d expect of an Accor property. Located close to My Dinh and 20 minutes from downtown Hanoi, this new property with an inhouse restaurant and bar is perfect for business professionals or travellers looking to mix a stay in Hanoi with the feeling of being located in a place you can call home. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688

pullman-hanoi.com

With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000

sheraton.com/hanoi

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919

sofitel.com

The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem

sixonsixteen.com

Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the

second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969

goldensilkhotel.com

Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048

josephshotel.com

Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999

hanovahotel.com

A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372

hanoibackpackershostel.com

Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

Winner of Robb Report’s 2006

list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777

equatorial.com/hcm

This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon

In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade. LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688

lemeridien.com/saigon

Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam, Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creativeminded travellers. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River, the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas, making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings. LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333

legendsaigon.com

Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

saigon.newworldhotels.com

PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686

pullmanhotels.com

Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

riverside-apartments.com

Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1117

renaissance-saigon.com

This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheraton.com/saigon

Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

sofitel.com

WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688

windsorplazahotel.com

The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201

continentalhotel.com.vn

Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

M M M HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914

kimdohotel.com

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926

lanlanhotel.com.vn

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966

alcovehotel.com.vn

M M M HCMC – BUDGET

This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992

NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso. NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866

ducvuonghotel.com

from the backpacker’s area. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699

dunahotel.com

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888

furamavietnam.com

HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915

honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648

sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An

anbangbeachretreat.com

CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231

hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800

danangbeachresort.com.vn

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888

pullman-danang.com

Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234

danang.regency.hyatt.com

The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

novotel-saigon-centre.com

Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090

villasong.com

Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice. STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888

starcitysaigon.vn

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

The newly-built hotel is near

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DESTINATION ZERO NOVOTEL SUITES HANOI

often find myself wishing I could live in a hotel, but I suppose if five-star service and soft pillows became your day-to-day, it wouldn’t be as special. So I settle for those rare staycations, when you just need a break from it all and someone to take care of everything for you, even down to the q-tips and the hand towels. I check into a nice hotel on a Saturday night, bask in the rain shower, order wine to the room, and prance around in a big white robe. It’s more relaxing than a vacation, really, because you don’t even have to travel. The Novotel Suites are perfect for this night of bliss; even their bathtubs have a view. We stayed on the 16th floor in one of their two bedroom suites — complete with a kitchenette, a full-sized refrigerator, a terrace, three flat-screen TVs with international channels, and massive windows next to all the beds for stunning first-thing-in-the-morning views. Combined with a bed that I suspect is literally made of

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PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

clouds, it was almost impossible to get up for breakfast.

Indulgence Luckily, the food here is delicious enough to leave bed for. On the second floor, the hotel’s Food Exchange restaurant serves three different buffet meals a day. For dinner, there was chicken stuffed with spinach in a creamy mushroom sauce, snapper bouillabaisse, fresh sushi, a massive international-style salad bar, so we barely made it to dessert. Breakfast and lunch were equally packed full of delicious choices (though I tried not to make any, and ate entirely too much). To balance out this gluttony, there’s a full gym facility, with a sauna and a steam room. I did not feel like ruining my food high with exercise, though, so opted for a leisurely float in the sparkling new pool instead. Tucked away behind the hotel, the pool is quiet and relaxing, with jazzy covers of classic songs drifting softly through the speakers.

Reality Check The downside to a staycation is that it’s no excuse to stop working, but if you have to work anywhere, the Novotel’s sunny lobby and bar is a better place than most. It’s a wide, open space, with big windows for people-watching on Duy Tan street, and retro lounge chairs in a 1950s Danish style. The second floor also has a lovely VIP room, with an impressive oak table for business meetings, and larger conference rooms that can accommodate up to 215 people. But I wasn’t here for all of that, and I was content to send my emails from the comfort of my fluffy bed, awash in contemporary elegance, dark wood, and the twinkling lights of the city below. I checked out refreshed and ready to tackle the day. My only complaint is that I couldn’t keep that big white robe. — Jesse Meadows The Novotel Suites Hanoi are located at 5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Hanoi. For further information call (04) 3576 6666 or go to novotel.com

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NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY

Dalat Train Station

Full Steam Ahead

The once-upon-a-time hub of the cog railway that ran from Dalat to Phan Rang

Inside the steam train running from Dalat to Trai Mat

’m in two minds about Dalat. Sure it’s been dubbed ‘Le Petit Paris’ and ‘The City of Eternal Spring’, the scenery is spectacular, and it’s Vietnam’s most popular honeymoon spot, but as I explored the region I kept thinking to myself that maybe I’d have been better off going to Sa Pa or Mui Ne or Nha Trang instead. Perhaps if I’d been on my honeymoon I’d have had a different perspective on things. It’s not that I particularly disliked the place; it’s just that I didn’t particularly fall in love with it either. Dalat is situated on a 1,500-metre high plateau in the central highlands of Vietnam, seven hours from Ho Chi Minh City. Its surrounding mountains have prompted many people to liken the area to the French Alps. Fields of flowers, waterfalls, coffee and tea plantations, hectares of pine forests (‘The City of 1000 Pines’ is yet another of Dalat’s names), vegetable gardens and fruit plantations are among the things that draw many visitors to the region. The area attracts 800,000 domestic tourists a year, and a smaller number of foreign

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tourists — 80,000 to be exact. The climate is temperate all year round, the air is fresh, the skies are blue, and the rolling foothills of the countryside are lush and green.

Big Attractions

By Don Wills

The city is renowned for its marigold, hydrangea and orchid gardens. In the centre of the city is the artificial Xuan Huong Lake, created in the mid-1980s. Dalat’s attractions include the market, the Domaine de Marie Convent where a pink church sits atop a hill, the Valley of Love, the Lake of Sighs, Thien Vien Truc Lam Monastery which can be accessed by cable car, and Tuyen Lam Lake, also man-made. At Dalat’s 200-year-old railway station, you can climb aboard a steam locomotive bound for Trai Mat 7km away; a great little ride for steam train nuts like me. In the centre of the city there’s a surreal building dubbed The Crazy House. It is actually a guest-house, and resembles a cross between a medieval castle and a troglodyte’s abode. The interior is every bit as out-of-this-world as the exterior. Dalat City has many buildings with

ENTRY 7:

Dalat

You’ve Been Flagged

Beans

A train attendant manages the crossing in the village of Trai Mat

Dalat is famous for its coffee, flowers, fruit and vegetables

French-era architecture, hotels from two-star and up, Vietnamese and ethnic restaurants, bars, and a few nightclubs and discos. Dalat’s nightlife is best described as muted. What little excitement there is fizzles out by around 10.30pm, which is kind of surprising for a city that attracts so many visitors. Fun City, it ain’t.

Big Game Back in the 1950s, Dalat was a Mecca for big-game hunters. Deer, roe, wild boar, black bear, wildcats, panthers, tigers, gaurs and elephants were all in abundance, and were eagerly hunted down by gun-happy sportsmen from across the world. Now all of the animals have now been wiped out. The only present-day reminder of the big-game era is a few mounted heads you’ll see on walls here and there. Sad, but a situation that’s happened all too often in many countries. To my mind, Dalat is worth spending one or two days in, but more than that — not for me, thanks. On a rating of one to ten, I’d give it… ooh… a four. If it wasn’t for the steam train I’d give it a three.

So how come I’m not as enthused with Dalat as most visitors seem to be? It’s difficult to put a finger on it. When I was there I kept looking for something more, something unique, something memorable, that would have me gasping “Oooh! Ahh! Wow! This I’ve gotta tell the folks back home about!” But none of that happened. The place left me vaguely dissatisfied. I don’t know about you, but artificial lakes and

vegetable gardens don’t push any of my buttons. Nor do acres of pine trees, for that matter. OK, the flower gardens are good, but only for about five minutes. Maybe it’s just me. Maybe I’m all travelled-out this year. I might just have to go back and give the place a second try next year. Born in New Zealand, Don Wills lives in Vung Tau. He’s been writing his way round the region for decades

Dalat City has many buildings with French-era architecture, hotels from two-star and up, Vietnamese and ethnic restaurants, bars, and a few nightclubs and discos. Dalat’s nightlife is best described as muted

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 131

Travel

with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool. MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777

mercure-danang.com

Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix. THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000

ghmhotels.com

Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800

angsana.com/en/lang_co

Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors. BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888

banyantree.com/en/lang_co

PHOTO BY VU HA KIM VY

Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity

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with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods. LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475

la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736

hoangphuonghotel.com

M M M NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222

sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination

2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa. JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384

junglebeachvietnam.com

On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature. MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666

mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900

novotel-nhatrang.com

This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant,

bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222

sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000

sheraton.com/nhatrang

M M M PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727

ninhchubay.com

Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination. BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322

blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111

cocobeach.net

With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those

who opened it in 1995. JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177

joescafemuine.com

A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix. MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440

miamuine.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000

victoriahotels.asia

Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844

easytigerphongnha@gmail. com

A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night. HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182

phong-nha-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135

phong-nha-cave.com

The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

M M M PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998

beachclubvietnam.com

A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season. MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207

mangobayphuquoc.com

An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar. SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND $$$$ Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: (08) 3929 3097 Hotline 0907 99 55 02

salindaresort.com

Set on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with contemporary design. The

property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies, and provides a luxury experience that embodies the understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.

M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946

catcathotel.com

The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces. TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)

topasecolodge.com

With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553

binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939

condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525

hotramresort.com

This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-

galows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools. HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631

sanctuary.com.vn

The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours. REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135

rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222

sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888

thegrandhotramstrip.com

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702

buffalotours.com.vn

A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam. BTA customizes leisure and

corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours. EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150

exotravel.com

A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays. HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828

handspan.com

Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations. HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844

hgtravel.com

Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com). INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308

intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses

on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture. TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977

kien@travelsense.asia

A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170

buffalotours.com

This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam. EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19

exotravel.com

A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744

flightravelco.com

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers. GRASSHOPPER ADVENTURES Tel: 0946 704095

grasshopperadventures.com

Escape the bustle with

Southeast Asia’s top rated bike tour company. Run guided day tours to the Mekong Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels. Also organize longer, two to 14-day tours throughout Vietnam. TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754

terraverdetravel.com

If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well. VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585

vietnamvespaadventure. com

Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659

backofthebiketours.com

Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience. BEENINASIA.COM

beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary. TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436

tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.

May 3rd - Oct 31st

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 133

Hanoi

Day Tripper: Hanoi / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Medical Buff / A World of Good / Book Buff Photo by Julie vola

134 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Hanoi Essentials

ALTERNATIVE HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER

gkaren@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com

Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available. HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE

issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth

A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. Only available online, but a great information source.

M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM (BBGV) 193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 6674 0945

HANOI OIS

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

NETBALL CLUB

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX

The chamber of commerce for all things relating to the UK and British-born expats living in the capital. Puts on monthly networking events, gala dinners, fundraising events and much more.

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

bbgv.org

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

ccifv.org

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228

eurochamvn.org

ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

icham.org

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh

sbav-hanoi.org

M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA

23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.

TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE

M M M

LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP

VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS

44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151

CLUBS & SOCIETIES

XUNHASABA

AMERICAN CLUB

ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

EVENT SPACE

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790

amchamhanoi.com

AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994

auschamvn.org

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850 GOETHE INSTITUT GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251

goethe.de/hanoi

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP

hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115

thehanoiclub.com

hanoinetball@gmail.com L’ESPACE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164

vphanoi-lespace.com

M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

SKATESHOP

THREE TREES

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

JEWELLERY

booskateshop.com

CHULA 43 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho; 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 258960

chulafashion.com

The work of Spanish couple Laura and Diego, this homegrown Hanoi brand describes themselves as creating wearable art. Designing pieces that are trendy, elegant, Western and yet distinctly Asian, their shop and arts space focuses on lifestyle, with regular events and more. CONTRABAND

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

AIR ASIA airasia.com

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

M M M

AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088

hanoicookingcentre.com

Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

AIRLINES

HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE

147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045

hiddenhanoi.com.vn

A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE

CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS

8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

L’ATELIER WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES

33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758

ateliervietnam.com

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831

Mekong-quilts.org

Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in

SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

Hanoi Essentials

several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

Tel: (04) 3928 5190

artvietnamgallery.com

Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789

Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks.

Daloc.vn

DON’S TAY HO

MANZI

BICYCLE RENTALS

GALLERY & BAR / CAFE

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

Stocks organic vegetables from Sapa, Soc Son and Dalat; seafood from Hai Phong and Quang Ninh; Norwegian salmon and highlands pork and beef. Also offers foreign spices and convenience store products from Japan and Thailand. Free delivery for any purchase above VND400,000.

CYCLING

Dons-bistro.com

facebook.com/manzihanoi

LINHMART 116, D4 Dormitory, Giang Vo, Ba Dinh (near Ha Noi Hotel) Tel: 0936 491136 or 0916 504548

linhmart.com

BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS

Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices.

70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941

NHA SAN COLLECTIVE

KITCHEN ART

GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS

KITCHENWARE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316

38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770

GREEN BIKE CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST

15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES

34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES

29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156

thbc.vn

DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC

nhasanstudio.org

The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.

DENTAL CLINIC

VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM

3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434

NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM

australiandentalclinic.com PEACE DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286

peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho

serenitydentalclinic.com

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555

westcoastinternational.com

The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

GALLERIES ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,

136 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Hanoigourmet.com

kitchenart.vn L'S PLACE

A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

GROCERIES / DELI

First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

LAN SALON Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC (ACC)

acc.vn/en

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems. BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

NATURALLY VIETNAM

HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130

THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE

17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854 VEGGIE’S GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701

warehouse-asia.com

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DA LOC

DINH HAIR SALON

WINE RETAILER

HAIR SALON

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER

The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500

INDOCHINA PLAZA

241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596

LOTTE CENTER

54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016

lottecenter.com.vn PARKSON

bumrungrad.vn

Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666

JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH)

229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400

136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717

RED APRON 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

SHOPPING MALLS

TOP-END SALON

3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

M M M ANNAM GOURMET

48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907

GROCERY SHOP

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

workroomfour.com

WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER

44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (4) 3265 6888

WINE RETAILER

DENTAL CLINIC

JUST.IN.M

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009

Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts. WORK ROOM FOUR

162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366

CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS

naturallyvietnam.com

vnfam.vn

UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON

DELI / WINE SHOP

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131

SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888

HANOI GOURMET

HAIR STREAM

parkson.com.vn PICO MALL

INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL 32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3715 3666

jieh.vn

JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. Using the latest technology and built according to Japanese standards, the facility is the first in Vietnam to use Mel 90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany), and is one of first three eye hospitals in the country using Visumax (Carl Zeiss - Germany) for refractive surgery. Top-end customer service and a friendly, contemporary environment add to the mix.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748

vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are

SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999

VINCOM ROYAL CITY

72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550

used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service. FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100

hfh.com.vn

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL

55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880

hongngochospital.vn

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666

Internationalsos.com

Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL

12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231 VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556

vinmec.com

M M M INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370

insuranceinasia.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111

libertyinsurance.com.vn

REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488

M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435

bishanoi.com

A selective, independent, co-educational day school. Provides a British-style education following the

National Curriculum for England, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards. CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878

concordiahanoi.org

A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140

hisvietnam.com

With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students.

for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2, Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4 Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel (04) 6666 1818

ANH DUNG

HANOI RENTING

MOTORBIKE RENTALS

RENTALS

37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096

No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828

Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all taught by qualified teachers.

PHUNG MOTORBIKE

kinderworld.net/sis

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551

unishanoi.org

Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims

MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS

MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL MOTORBIKE RENTALS

106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464 MOTORBIKE RENTALS

13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105 VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS

17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.

PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS

6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3718 6332

fair-realestate.com GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS

R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589

gialonghousing.com

hanoirenting.com

LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS

38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999

houseinhanoi.com

VIETLONG HOUSING RENTALS

21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203

vietlonghousing.com

M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511

vn.alliedpickfords.com

The largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves,

isvietnam.org

A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small. KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743 0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04) 3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209

kinderworld.net

Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418

hanoi.qsi.org

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DAY TRIPPER: HANOI TRANG AN

Edward Dalton heads south to an area that many have called ‘Halong Bay on Land’ — the Bai Dinh pagoda complex in Ninh Binh. Photos by Theo Lowenstein

he Trang An Scenic Landscape Complex is located around 90km south of Hanoi, and is home to both the almighty Bai Dinh pagoda and the beautiful scenery of Trang An. A slightly intimidating three-hour motorbike ride was the only obstacle to an unforgettable day trip.

Blessing of the Maitreya To preserve the peaceful and fresh atmosphere, nothing with a petrol engine is allowed too close to Bai Dinh Pagoda, so from the nearby car park we were shuttled in electric buggies to the main entrance. The return ticket, which also covers the entrance fee, is VND60,000 per person.

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Bai Dinh Pagoda is bursting at the seams with impressive records and statistics. The site covers an area of 700 hectares. Thousands of small statues adorn the walls of the two largest temples, with 500 arhat (enlightened being) statues on the paths to the top. Several 100-ton statues and the three largest decorative lacquered boards in Vietnam are hidden inside the main halls. The grounds of the pagoda complex are strikingly lush, and as we ascend to the highest level, the view rivals the pagoda itself in grandeur and beauty. At the highest point of Bai Dinh is the Maitreya, or future Buddha, with a bronze belly so generously proportioned, it made me feel like Asia’s Next Top Model, albeit briefly.

Going on a Friday meant we avoided the weekend tour bus onslaught, and the consequential peace and quiet made the contemplative moment at the summit feel extra meaningful. The serenity caused us to lose track of time, so our plan to try out the local speciality of goat meat was scuppered in favour of a quick meal at a modest restaurant near the pagoda car park.

Mind Your Head A 10km ride east took us to the beginning of the Trang An boat tours. The trip there from Bai Dinh could be done in 15 minutes, but we found ourselves having to stop frequently to take photos of the astonishing scenery flanking us on each side of the road.

PHOTOS BY THEO LOWENSTEIN

A ticket for a place on a rowboat powered by a mightily fit local will set you back VND150,000, or you can get a whole boat to yourself for VND600,000. The trip takes around two hours, so if it’s a bright day you will need to bring sunscreen, shades and possibly even an umbrella to provide a bit of shade. I forgot the sunscreen and spent the next three days looking like a boiled lobster. Fortunately, the scenery is so utterly breathtaking that any backache, numb backside or sunburn is a small price to pay for the experience. The landscape is dominated by towering limestone formations which stick up from the earth like the fists of the Titans. The boat trip follows the winding river around the base of these

awe-inspiring structures, and through caves under the rock formations. As we approached the base of one mountain and the entrance to a cave became clearly visible, the guide told us to sit down low to avoid banging our heads on the stalactites. Cooling drops of water dripped onto us as the guide expertly steered the boat through the claustrophobic cave, until it once again emerged into another postcard-like setting. The Trang An Scenic Landscape Complex has so much to offer, it’s definitely a full-day trip. Prodigious pagodas and stunning scenery all in one place, there aren’t many places I’d commit to six hours of driving for, but this is somewhere I will always be keen to return to. Next time, I'll remember the sunscreen.

Getting There Take AH1 south out of Hanoi and follow it for around 85km. Upon reaching the second bridge over the Song Day River, turn right and follow the TL477B to Cau Den Bridge. Bai Dinh Temple is south west of the bridge, via QL38B, while the entrance to the Trang An River complex is south east via Trang An Street. The journey by motorbike will take around three hours. Buses and trains can get you into Ninh Binh City where taxis can be found for onward travel.

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 139

THE ALCHEMIST GROUP MIND

ur planet is in the midst of turbulent times. The rate at which we are informed of tragic global events can have a negative impact on our psyche. The media tends to highlight all that is wrong in the world, painting a bleak picture of humanity.

An Invocation How do we stay positive and hopeful in an environment of despair? How can we adjust our outlook in order to stay optimistic? The words of Vietnamese spiritual teacher and peace activist, Thich Nhat Hanh, offer some guidance: “We invoke all our spiritual teachers to be with us, helping to embrace our suffering, to embrace the world, and to embrace humanity as a family.” Words of comfort, support and encouragement to take ‘right action’ can help us navigate the emotional turmoil of fear, anger and sadness that can well up within us in times of distress.

A Diffusion At a time when it seems that the world

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is going to hell in a handbasket, our challenge is to transcend the negativity and the chaos in order to transform the pain and suffering and to respond to atrocities with love and compassion. “Each time you send love in response to hate, you diffuse the hate,” said Wayne Dyer. As tragic as some of the events have been, it is important to remember that there is an abundance of good going on in the world and it is there that we should focus our attention. We do not ignore the suffering, we send prayers and love to all those affected, including any perpetrators. In this way we shift the energy, and support the healing process of the whole planet.

Hold a Vision Scientific research is arriving at the fact that all life is interconnected. Through this web of interconnectedness, we can affect change on a global scale by paying attention to our thoughts and feelings. Spiritual teachers and energy healers inform us that “where the attention goes, the energy flows.” As we direct our energy

BY KAREN GAY

towards peace, peace will likely ensue. Alberto Villoldo encourages us to “hold a vision of the world in ayni (reciprocity), beyond time and space, embracing a dream of beauty, peace and truth.”

Love Prevails It is believed by some that the Earth and her inhabitants are going through a great transformational shift, one where the darkness can no longer hide and love prevails. As this transformation unfolds, the darkness has to come to the surface for cleansing. This happens on a personal level and on the global stage. Each one of us has the power to transmute the darkness with our thoughts and actions. Let us harness this power and enter into a group mind where the collective consciousness shines its bright light on the darkness, to emerge victorious in an era of peace. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

Hanoi

office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam. JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Essentials

AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762

agsfourwinds.com

A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.

MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281

elitefitness.com.vn

The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range. N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495

nshapefitness.vn SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805

STUDIO FIVE

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

VIETCLIMB

santaferelo.com

YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515

studio5.vn

with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

vietclimb.vn

Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym

SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

bosua.vn

HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757

hanoisport.vn

ZENITH YOGA & CAFÉ YOGA & NUTRITION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 62 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem; Tel: 0904 356 561

zenithyogavietnam.com

The oldest and most professional Yoga Studio in Hanoi, Zenith offers a vast variety of classes and levels in Iyengar, Hatha, Vinyasa, Ashtanga and Pilates while also offering Restorative, Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga, Meditation sessions, and Kundalini classes. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, clothes and yoga props, as well as a café serving up the homemade vegetarian meals, cakes and coffee.

MMM SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT

CLIMBING CENTRE

40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185

BOO SKATESHOP

SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS

19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6273 3095

13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305

umove.com.vn

SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem

bigc.vn CITIMART Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

metro.com.vn

THE THERAPIST PARENTING

Dear Douglas, My wife is pregnant with our first child. We have wanted a child for a while, but now she is saying things that have me concerned. She seems really worried that she won’t be a good mom and that somehow we will “mess up” our kid. She has some family members who have been through depression and substance abuse and she feels like it was the fault of the parents that they suffered. How can I assure her that she can be a great parent and not to worry so much? — Father To Be Dear Father To Be, Thank you for opening up a question that concerns a lot of people. Healthy worry, which is a form of fear, reminds us to pay attention… because there is something important to attend to. A little worry is part of recognising that the role of parent is a very important one and can have a great deal to do with shaping the lives of the children we raise. But, too much worry can bring fear and insecurity into the process and disrupt the natural confidence we have to be “good enough” parents; no one is perfect. Let’s start by talking about what children need from those who raise them, parents, family as well as teachers and others who influence their lives. Three things create the foundation. 1) It is the parents’ responsibility to keep their children safe. It means physically and emotionally safe. While it is impossible to protect children from all the ways that we can be hurt in our lives, a child learns inner security when they feel the adults around them are aware of what they need and can console them when they are in pain. Emotional safety is the foundation of a life that leads to one’s ability to trust one’s own judgment, and to navigate relationships in a healthy way. Our inner security is directly related to how secure we felt as children. As a child grows older they need to be given more freedom to take risks and understand the dangers of life with the awareness of adults who can assure them of their constant support. Under-protected kids develop anxieties and might seek security through controlling the aspects of life they can. Over-protected kids can grow into adults who are unimaginative, depressed or expect too much of others.

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2) Nurturance is the process of feeding a child what they need. What we all need more than anything else is love. Unconditional love is not connected to performance, good or bad, and is a message that instills value and worth to a child. This too is at the foundation of any life… to feel loved, valued, validated, accepted for who we are, and to feel that we belong to our family, friends and larger community. This isn’t something that we should assume a child will know or feel. Affection, through hugs, words of acceptance and encouragement and other messages that communicate that we “matter”, create an inner security that is displayed in natural confidence. An unnurtured child grows into an adult who might lack confidence and suffer from low self-esteem or self-worth. 3) It is the parents’ responsibility to generate developmentally appropriate tasks. It means that a feeling of success is achieved because the child is able to do what they have attempted to do. The adult can see what a child can and cannot do and can support and encourage them in ways that allow them to continue to accomplish what they are trying. It is important to see the smaller parts of any task and to help guide children through the steps to completion. Children who learn success early are able to apply it to other challenges as they grow older. It is important not to focus too much on the outcome, but rather on the process. The reward is intrinsic. We all love to feel like we can do what we set out to do. Having developmental tasks that are too difficult can produce frustration and undermine a child’s belief that they can be successful. Too little challenge leads to complacency or lack of motivation. These three guidelines can help create priorities for parents. We must remember that children each have their own personalities, abilities, interests, as well as fears and limitations. Guiding a child is a relationship dynamic and no script or plan can be right for every child or parent. It is important to do the best you can and recognise that much of life is outside of your control. The less fear we bring the better we will do. Children are resilient and life is more

BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA

of an adventure than a straight road to certain places. Live your life freely and with joy, and your children will learn that from you. Share this with your wife to begin a discussion of what her fears are and how you will work together to raise your child. Be well, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

Hanoi On the Town

BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem

facebook.com/bar84hanoi

Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

EDEN HANOI

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho

facebook.com/edengargen

When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list. ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE

88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029

88group.vn

A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar.

FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211

linkhanoi.com

A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix. BARBETTA ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat. CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970

cama-atk.com

With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

POLITE PUB LONG BAR

5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches. RED RIVER TEA ROOM LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho

facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly. ROCKSTORE

HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170

facebook.com/hrc.hanoi

Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY

1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088 LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT

284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993

facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi

Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen, especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. Sofas, bar stools, menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting, there’s a grunge-style feel to the place, but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. Has a pizza joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.

61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087

facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi

Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space. THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116

republic.vn

A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace. THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE

19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901

therooftop.vn

The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience. THE UNICORN BAR COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE

2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. Now, as for the cocktails… TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL

SIDEWALK HANOI DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE

199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi

A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty. SPY BAR HOLE IN THE WALL

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for.

For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

LIVE MUSIC BAR

BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI

7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers.

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

SPORTS BAR/GRILL

114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6675 9838

tracyspub.com

A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi.

CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers. CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE

2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. They also do coffee. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240

coffeebean.com

This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

congcaphe.com

With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. D’ALICE

VUVUZELA MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922

vuvuzela.com.vn

When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance.

BOUTIQUE CAFE

89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy.

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BAR STOOL BAR +84

s the sun finishes up its rotation and headlights begin casting shadows around corners, Bar +84 is preparing for another night of pouring beers, mixing cocktails and bringing out the wine coolers. The space itself is a dimly lit townhouse from the French colonial era, converted with an extended conservatory area serving as the entrance. Posters of Hollywood classic The Godfather hang around the walls and lamps shaped like 9mm pistols sit on the bar. Tables are cosily arranged in front of a small stage scattered with musical instruments. Come September a private area will be opened on the second floor to cater for customers who would prefer a quieter atmosphere than the energy downstairs. The private room will be available for bookings. Owner Giang Trang says: “We want to make this a place where people come and feel like they’re visiting a friend’s house,” and after taking up a chair and scanning your surroundings it’s pretty evident that on an average night the crowd in Bar +84 is far from pretentious. This is the sort of bar you can visit whether you’re in professional dress or shorts and a t-shirt. All walks of life come

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PHOTOS BY BORIS LOPATIN

together when one of the resident bands begins playing.

Live Music Live music six nights a week has put Bar +84 on the map for musicians and artists who want to come and enjoy a laid-back atmosphere while catching talent from local Hanoi bands and musicians from the expat community. Throughout the week you can catch jazz, acoustic and rock ‘n’ roll, all of which hovers within 1950s, 1960s and 1970s influences. Trang says: “Sometimes bands come from abroad to perform in Hanoi and afterwards they come here to play an acoustic set, we’ve had musicians from Japan, Germany — sometimes I even sing a song on stage.” If live music doesn’t appeal to you then you can come down on Mondays Ladies’ Night, when the stage is left to gather some much needed dust. All ladies get a free glass of wine and groups of four plus get a free bottle from 7pm to 9.30pm. A bar is nothing without a good selection of drinks to choose from, and here you’ll find possibly the biggest selection of whiskies anywhere in town. From Singleton to Suntory and everything in between, the top shelf is stacked with bottles of the brown stuff.

There’s also a good stock of gin and a Latin favourite, Patron Tequila (VND225,000) — a rare sight around Hanoi. A Tiger Beer on draft costs VND40,000. Michael, the resident bartender hailing from the Czech Republic, specialises in using his know-how to put together just about any classic cocktail, or one of Bar +84’s own alcoholic inventions. If you’re feeling adventurous order the +84 Special, for VND170,000. He’ll put together anything you give him a recipe for, and if you have no recipe then he’ll just put together whatever he feels will get the job done. Food is also served until late. The menu has a good balance of meals like steak and chips with peppercorn gravy and bar snacks to keep your energy up through the night, all at reasonable prices. Bar +84 is a laid back bar with a friendly vibe and very knowledgeable staff. Surprise yourself by making a blind appearance one evening — you never know what musicians you’ll find. Alternatively you can just check their Facebook page for regular updates on fixtures and offers. — Billy Gray Bar +84 is located at 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

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COFFEE CUP KAFEVILLE

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

ucked away in Ba Dinh, this small, cosy coffee shop is something between a café and a science lab. Above the counter is a sign that lists seven different tools of the barista trade to choose from, and imported coffees from the likes of Burundi, Costa Rica and Papua New Guinea — a rarity even in a city as obsessed with coffee as Hanoi. On a warm Sunday afternoon, 33-yearold Luong Thanh Binh demonstrates the delicate art of pour-over coffee making for two young Vietnamese men in blackrimmed glasses, sci-fi novels in hand. They swill their coffees in snifters like discerning brandy drinkers, as Binh points to the relevant flavour notes on a chart he keeps behind the bar. Binh learnt his trade from barista friends and YouTube videos, unsatisfied with his inability to find a cup of coffee he liked in Hanoi. After 10 years abroad in Russia, he’d developed a taste for the lighter, more subtle style of coffee enjoyed in the West. Imported coffee has sour, bitter, sweet, and salty notes, while Vietnamese coffee is only bitter, he explains. Binh and his wife Van spent nearly

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a decade as sports reporters for VTV, but their love of coffee and desire for something new led them to quit the broadcasting life and open Kafeville in March of this year. It’s a simple, direct concept — no cake, no frills, just imported coffee and local tea made artfully and with great care. What they’ve created is unique. “I want to change the way people in Hanoi drink coffee,” says Binh. Indeed no-one else in the city is brewing the bean with such passion and love. And certainly no other café is offering such a range of brewing styles. Here you can try anything from Chemex and siphon through to French press, Aeropress, machine made and, naturally, Vietnamese filter.

Creating Choice Each cup comes with a small chocolatechip cookie and a sugar cube, and you can even choose how it’s made. Do you want it poured over a Chemex, or steeped in a French press, or vacuum-suctioned through a siphon pot? Each tool creates different flavours, which Binh is more than happy to explain, while he measures out beans and pours latte art. Where Binh handles the coffee, Van

takes care of the tea. She’s selected a variety of styles and flavours from across Vietnam, and organised each into a sampler of small glass bottles, so you can choose what you’d like by sight and scent. The couple persuaded an artist friend to design the interior for them. He even drew diagrams of coffee concoctions on the signboard, so you can be sure what you’re ordering. Do you know the difference between a cappuccino and a café latte? Don’t worry, Kafeville’s got you covered. The décor is simple yet stylish, with grey walls and rough-hewn tabletops. There are even a few antique sewing tables dotted around the café, and a bookshelf and chess set offer some cerebral entertainment. A bright teal couch sits in the corner by the floor-to-ceiling front windows, which bathe the small café in sunlight. Apart from espresso (VND40,000), cappuccino (VND50,000) and cold brew (VND45,000), the shop also sells 100 grams of roasted beans for VND80,000 (which they are happy to grind for you on request). — Jesse Meadows Kafeville is at 22 Nguyen Trung Truc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

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Hanoi On the Town

DUY TRI

MANZI ARTSPACE

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ

VIETNAMESE CAFÉ

ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY

ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR

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tet-lifestyle-collection.com

43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

MAISON DE TET DÉCOR

COURTYARD CAFE

LIFESTYLE CAFE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea. HANOI HOUSE

36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

On-site coffee roasting, comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and décor, and a focus on healthy, non-processed foods. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor, and it’s a popular one, too, as witnessed by the size of the clientele. Also run occasional farmers’ markets.

HIDEAWAY CAFE

2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN

5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

highlandscoffee.com.vn

With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam. JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY

22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071

joma.biz

Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations. KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt.

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MOC CAFE

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations. THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117

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A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL

14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains. PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE

16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night. SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

day. Tiny, hip and yet surprisingly spacious, Amato offers an international dining and drinking experience in the heart of Hanoi.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224

aulacdobrazil.com

A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.

ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT

288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945

asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129

FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD

facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops

Boasting an abundance of communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. Open 24 hours. ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com

A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.

EAT AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155

alfrescogroup.com AMATO

TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE

1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01227 367470 Located next to Binh Minh Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion tapas bar by night and a French restaurant during the

DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831

daluva.com

A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. DON’S TAY HO

YOLO 32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh

has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment.

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

Dons-bistro.com

This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list. EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

CHOPS GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER

4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6292 1044

chopsvietnam.com

Finally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint, and this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it just about right. This is comfort food at its finest. Served up with locally brewed craft beer, and this one’s a bit of a winner. COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098

facebook.com/cousins.hanoi

A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN

18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991

elgaucho.com.vn

With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of. FOOD EXCHANGE INTERNATIONAL BUFFET RESTAURANT

5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3576 6666

accorhotels.com/9813

Food Exchange offers up a well-priced international buffet for breakfast, lunch and dinner with a live cooking station. Excellent Asian and Western cuisine set in a contemporary restaurant with trendy décor and a chilled out ambiance.

FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN

59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959

foodshop45.com

Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. FRENCH GRILL

ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam. Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN

10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668

indiapalacehn@vnn.vn

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

TOP-END GRILL

JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

facebook.com/frenchgrill

With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286

greentangerinehanoi.com

A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC

5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and

J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL

G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

pat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World. KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337

koto.com.au

The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof. KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

LA BADIANE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

alfrescogroup.com

labadiane-hanoi.com

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list. JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325

alfrescosgroup.com

Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian ex-

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.

LA SALSA

LUNA D’AUTUNNO

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN

CLASSIC ITALIAN

lasalsa-hanoi.com

lunadautunno.vn

5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950 A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317

verticale-hanoi.com

Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese-French fusion cuisine. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris. LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN

36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3266 8968

linguinifini.com/en/hanoi

With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam. Sleek modern décor, high quality cuisine, home-made pasta, reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal, as are some damn fine pizzas.

27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list. MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE PAN-CHINESE

Chinese fare. MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH

11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207

cafe-des-arts.com

A contemporary and chic three-storey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys. Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras, lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini. Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board.

Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

MOOSE AND ROO

Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls.

fortuna.vn

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

MEDITERRANEO

MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE

PAN-ITALIAN

AMERICAN GRILL

23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven.

The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470

MING PALACE

NAMASTE HANOI

PAN-CHINESE

PAN-INDIAN

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end

mooseandroo.com

There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides. Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town.

46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400

namastehanoi.com

The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and

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MEDICAL BUFF IT FALLS ON DEAF EARS

his story starts over a year ago when a happy gentleman from the Philippines visited me for his yearly health check. These involve a range of tests and with this particular patient I noticed that his blood pressure was on the high side. I gave him advice which included a change of diet and some steady exercise. My patient was also starting to show early signs of diabetes and so I prescribed him medication. But this is difficult to understand for a person who does not feel ill; health checks have a purpose of finding disease early and preventing disease from developing further. What I usually do is provide reassurance and advice on how to improve. The aim of a health check is to help find, prevent or reduce the effect of health issues. It’s like getting your car serviced before it breaks down, and we always say it’s better to avoid disease than to treat it. Some checks can be uncomfortable but they provide us with an opportunity to look at your lifestyle, medical history and family history to find out if you’re at risk. A few months ago, my patient returned for his yearly health check;

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BY DR. CATHERINE ZAPANTA GONZALEZ

he had self-elected to stop his diabetic medicine even though he’d been told to continue. His cholesterol was high and he hadn’t made any lifestyle changes such as reducing salt or generally modifying his diet. He regarded his yearly health check as a just a ‘tick in the box’ — the advice he was receiving from a professional was being totally ignored. My patient had hypertensive urgencies which I had seen the year before; stress, diet and lifestyle were all contributing factors to what was potentially a “train wreck waiting to happen”. Unfortunately this story doesn’t end well — a few weeks ago, my patient, after three days of chest pain, was rushed to a local hospital with a myocardial infarction (heart attack) with triple artery blockage. The frustration about this is it could have been prevented. “Prevention is better than cure” is not just an idiom of old but a focus of modern international medical care to emphasis wellness and prevention rather than simply concentrating on sickness and cure. Making lifestyle

changes can be difficult but can be achieved with determination. Lifestyle changes are a process that takes time and requires support. The first hurdle is recognising the problem and then the difficult part is committing and following through. So do your research and make a plan that will prepare you for success. Careful planning means setting small goals and taking things one step at a time.

Lifestyle Changes Stop Smoking Choose good nutrition Reduce your blood pressure Get more physically active Aim for a good diet Manage diabetes Reduce stress Limit alcohol Doctors know how difficult it is to make changes, but we see the benefits and effects. I don’t get frustrated giving people advice and discovering that they did not listen; and I know how difficult it is to make lifestyle changes and for them to stick, but here are some that have worked for me: — Motivate yourself; find the trigger — Don’t change everything at once — Surround yourself with a great support system that will help you stick to your goals. Ask important people in your life for their help — Track your progress — Learn from setbacks Don’t beat yourself up for having that extra slice of cake — we are all human, and I do it myself. I encourage my patients to learn from each lapse and come up with a strategy to succeed next time. Dr. Catherine Zapanta Gonzalez is general practitioner at Family Medical Practice Hanoi. For more info click on vietnammedicalpractice.com

Hanoi On the Town

breads to soups and desserts. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it. NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801

nineteen11.com.vn

Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier. OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE

pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local ingredients. POTS ‘N PANS CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204

potsnpans.vn

Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. SAINT HONORE BOULANGERIE / BISTRO

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355

sainthonore.com.vn

This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ

4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513

Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout.

Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

hanoixua.vn/en

thecartfood.com

PAN-ITALIAN

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080

facebook.com/panevinoHN

Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718

wrap-roll.com

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City. ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN

247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com/zenith-cafe

A vegetarian and vegan café connected to Zenith Yoga that respects yoga philosophy. Simple living, mindful thinking and 100 percent natural ingredients, all the food here is served up without additional additives or MSG and using only fresh seasonal products. All dishes are made in house.

STREETFOOD

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245

thekafe.vn

Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA

1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK) COM RANG DUA BO

57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da MIEN TRON HANH MIXED GLASS NOODLES

7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES

54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO

48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem PHO CUON HUNG BEN PHO CUON

26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA

7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA

1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO

3 CHI EM

49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem

PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM

18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho

PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO

BANH CUON HANG GA

10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem

BANH CUON

14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem

PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO

BANH DA TRON

13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung

BANH DA TRON

6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

PHO TRON MIXED PHO

STREETSIDE BANH MI

25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem

5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem

BIT TET NGON SO 5

PHO TU LUN

BANH MI 25 THE KAFE

PANE E VINO

with cream cheese and smoked salmon? How about a banoffee pie or a pizza waffle? Wannawaffle serves up all these creations and much more.

VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK

20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO

67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem

PHO BO

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem XOI HANG HOM STICKY RICE

44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem

WANNAWAFFLE WAFFLES

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01208 034444

27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem; 138 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; Unit 108, Indochina Plaza, 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay

Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired pizzas that break all the rules, the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch, a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. All

Waffles, but not as you know it. Here it’s about taking this humble dish and recreating it in a contemporary environment in as many ways as is humanly possible. Ever had a matcha waffle? What about a waffle stuffed

PIZZA 4P’S JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT

pizza4ps.com

facebook.com/wannawaffle

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

A WORLD

MEGAPHILANTHROPY

ot that long ago, Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg pledged to give away his gazillions of shares of the company he famously started in his pyjamas. Add to this fray the recent Brexit vote in the UK and the neverending US presidential campaign, and you could say I’ve had plutocracy on the brain for a while now. Many cheered Zuckerberg’s largesse to donate 99% of his (and his wife Priscilla Chan’s) stock in the social-networking company, in his lifetime, because the estimated value of that pledge is US$46 billion. It’s anticipated that more wealthy individuals will follow suit (FOMO?) and donate their big bucks to worthy causes. Fans said Team Zuckerberg had set a new philanthropic benchmark and that theoretically ‘millions’ of people can now be lifted out of poverty. He had a good mentor in Bill Gates who started the Gates Foundation (US$39.6 billion endowment as of last year) and parallel to that, the Giving Pledge, pestering America’s, and then the world’s, wealthiest families and individuals to give away all their money to charitable causes. Gates’ philanthropy funds the seemingly intractable and less addressed diseases called neglected tropical diseases (NTDs) such as guinea worm, river blindness, sleeping sickness and hookworm, so this is money clearly aimed at the poor and vulnerable.

Divergence The two tech titans diverge, however, on a

152 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

key point. The Gates Foundation operates as a 501(c)3 nonprofit, so it’s required by law to be transparent (read, audits) and ultimately is restricted or banned from activities such as political donations or political lobbying. Zuckerberg created an investment vehicle (as in a limited liability company or LLC) not a nonprofit, charitable foundation. An LLC can invest in for-profit companies, give money to political parties and lobby government (at all levels) to change laws. So Gates’ structure is the antithesis of the Zuckerberg model. By pledging his Facebook shares and not the cash from the sale of same (i.e. triggering capital gains) or when his daughter inherits, Zuckerberg’s LLC is a stupendous tax shelter. As we’ve seen with the recent Panama Papers leak, no tax filing equals no transparency or accountability. By pledging shares into a for-profit LLC, this megaphilanthropy means billions of unrealised tax dollars will not make it into the public sector. At the end of the day Bill and Melinda Gates absolutely control where their funding goes, too, but they are neither development nor health professionals, nor even arms-length professional philanthropists. Gates and Zuckerberg have experienced funding debacles with their forays into education and Gates’ ‘chickengate’ in Bolivia is lamentable. As one of the largest funders to the World Health Organization, the Gates Foundation dominates the global health agenda.

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

Eradication Undemocratic or nonrepresentational processes or those cloaked in subterfuge continue to put more and more power in the hands of wealthy elites and private individuals. Who is writing the rules and performing oversight? Appealing to the mega-rich to fund the eradication of the world’s problems is not the panacea we might all hope for. How do technological fixes like smart pills and shiny gadgets solve or end discrimination, oppression or environmental destruction? “We need a system that does not create so many billionaires,” said public health researcher Dr David McCoy in 2012. “[But] until we do that, this kind of philanthropy [remains] a distraction or is potentially harmful to the need for systemic change to the political economy.” Political will is what we’re after, not tax dodging disguised as altruism. This is what plutocrats hate: better and more education for women and girls; upending the status quo; obliteration of patriarchy, superstition and ignorance. These are the things we must do together to not only dismantle the systemic causes of poverty, but to address the inherent contradictions of capitalism and the neoliberal market. Otherwise we continue to spray our fire extinguishers at the top of the fire and not its base. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an award-winning nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth

BOOK BUFF LITERATURE AND IDENTITY

ouldn’t it be wonderful if the acronym that makes your mouth feel full of marbles — lgbtqi (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender — queer/questioning, intersex) — disappeared; if rainbows took back their real meaning; the word gay once again meant bright and happy; pride referred to a group of lions or to deep pleasure and satisfaction; you stepped outdoors if coming out; people could marry whoever they wanted, and same-sex marriage no longer deflected media attention from important issues. Canada is just about to allow citizens to use an X gender indicator and perhaps that country’s children may grow into an adult world where gender indicators and sexuality labelling are relics of the past. Perhaps some may have kids who will live in a place like the magical, New England, town David Levithan writes about in his young adult novel Boy Meets Boy, where every sexual preference and gender interpretation is accepted and even celebrated. Levithan takes us to a world that many of today’s youngsters accept as being the future. They would find perfectly normal the story of teenage narrator Paul taking us through his falling-in-love with new boy, Noah, his non-sexual love for gay Tony, the end of his affair with bisexual Kyle and his friendship with Joni who is in an on-again off-again relationship with Ted, the high school lothario. In fact they accept the author’s presumption that our world would be a far more perfect place if everyone could just lighten up and be as relaxed about gay teens as it is about straights.

Dense It’s an intimate, feel-good type of romantic comedy that charms anyone with a soul.

Alison Bechdel’s very Proustian and dense autobiographical graphic novel Fun Home: A Family Tragicomic was adapted as a Tony Award-winning Broadway musical and, with its raft of lgbtqi issues and its theme of the importance of acceptance of oneself and others, was taken to Orlando, Florida, after the gay nightclub shooting. Bechdel uses visual and verbal representations of memory to frame the development of her lesbian identity. She grew up in a small town in Pennsylvania with her parents and two younger brothers, in a house packed to the gills with museum-type furniture. Her home is also the work place of her funeral director father who is a closet gay and obsessively strict about family privacy. He is killed in an accident just after she has written him a letter announcing her lesbian identity. She is determined that he has committed suicide. She had wanted to dress as a boy since she was tiny and during puberty she realised her attraction to women. She came out as a lesbian at 19. The memoir’s 232 pages has been accurately described as a lush piece of work and is one of a pile of literary books with themes that some of our lgbtqi customers recommend for all teenagers. Included are classics like James Baldwin’s Giovanni’s Room, Alice Walker’s The Color Purple, Virginia Woolf’s Orlando and Jeffery Eugenide’s Middlesex. In YA fiction the delightful, gay teenaged Marvel Comic hero in Perry Moore’s Hero is a must. The urban myth has it that Moore wrote the novel as protest after being upset by the movie X — Men: Age of Apocalypse #2 because the gay character Northstar was killed off by Wolverine.

BY HOANG VAN TRUONG

Intersects One mother who recently gave birth to a child with both female and male genitalia and who had assigned the child a female identity until the child decides otherwise, has stated that she wants the topic of intersex — formerly called hermaphroditism — to be the kind of thing that people can openly talk about, hoping that in her daughter’s lifetime there will come a day when everyone knows about it and it’s no big deal. Author Kathleen Winter writes about intersex in her prize winning novel Annabel, set in a hamlet in Labrador, Canada, which makes it an ideal setting for a theme about personal isolation. In 1968, Jacinta gives birth to a baby with one testicle, a penis, one ovary, a womb and a vagina. Treadway, her trapper husband, decides that the baby will be raised as a male and names it Wayne. Jacinta wants to encompass her baby’s female and male identities and a friend secretly christens it Annabel. With a little help from doctors Wayne starts life as a boy but has to come to terms with a girl curled up inside him. Although a humane story — without the dark humour that characterized the other prize winning intersex novel ‘Middlesex’ — there is a nightmare of homophobic violence after Wayne decides to cease taking the drugs that suppress his physical female characteristics that makes you wish that all of our kids could grow up in Levithan’s fictional town. Truong is an avid reader and runs Bookworm (44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi). For more information on go to bookwormhanoi.com

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 153

154 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

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Hanoi Map

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T R AN HUNG | August 2016 Word | 155 wordvietnam.com Lon DAO g Phan H

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Vietnam National Academy of Music

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Vietnam Fine Arts Museum Cao B a Qua t

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Day Tripper: HCMC / Bar Stool / Top Eats / Know Your City Photo by Bao Zoan

156 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

HCMC Essentials

BAKERIES

M M M BOOKSHOPS

ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ

223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1

phamngulao.abcbakery.co

Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available. BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY

106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

breadtalkvietnam.com

A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting. HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY

harvestbaking.net

With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details. L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072

lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS

FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1

fahasa.com

Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts. LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

pnc.com.vn

Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS

BAKERY & CAFE

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

touslesjoursbakery.com

The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam. VOELKER BAKERY

39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066

voelker-vietnam.com

French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

158 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

merce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

amchamvietnam.com

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912

auschamvn.org

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430

bbgv.org

CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754

canchamvietnam.org

Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Com-

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922

nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045

pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046

sbghcm.org

M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE

LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories. L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565

lusinespace.com

Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles. MANDARINA TAILOR-MADE SHOES

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394

anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm

This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers. BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET

174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826

Bamskateshop.com.vn BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING

1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084

ORANGE

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING

10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928

ginkgo-vietnam.com

Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701

ipa-nima.com

DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

BUDGET CLOTHING

152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620

9am to 10pm PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING

232 Bui Vien, Q1

papaya-tshirt.com T&V TAILOR TAILORS

39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556

triciaandverona.com U.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588

Ubesthouse.com VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

GINKGO

SHOPPING MALLS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CORPORATE GIFTS AMBRIJ 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364

ambrij.com

A one-stop-shop concept company providing marketing services including POSM, corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts from international brands like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix,

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Ungaro and more. Also do event management services.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734

overlandclub.jp

AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com

The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days. SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485

saigoncookingclass.com

Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class. VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349

vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE ATC FURNITURE ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE

268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946

atc-craft.com

AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023

austinhomeinteriors.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com

This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. CHI LAI

VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

HOME FURNISHINGS

175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543

chilai.com

This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach

and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories. EM EM SOUVENIRS

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408

8am to 9.30pm

FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-creations.org NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS

2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459

8am to 8pm

MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS

1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-quilts.org NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115

nhaxinh.com

REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190

remixdeco.com

THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788

thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 159

DAY TRIPPER: HCMC THAI SON PAGODA

Vu Ha Kim Vy strikes east out of Saigon to Thai Son and looks around the area to discover what there is to see

f you search for destinations on Google Maps without consulting any other sources, you don’t know what is waiting for you. Looking for places close to the city to visit, my eyes lit up on a large green area named Thai Son Pagoda. Thai Son Pagoda is in the Uncle Mountain Range (Nui Cau) next to Dau Tieng Lake in Binh Duong. It’s around 90km away from Ho Chi Minh City and 30km away from Tay Ninh’s Black Virgin Mountain (Nui Ba Den). Not many people know where it is, even the locals.

The Reservoir It’s always dangerous to drive while looking at a map, but it can provide you other good options to visit apart from your main destination. I pulled my bike over at a T-junction

160 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

where the map showed one way leading to the pagoda and the other to Diem Tham Quan Ho Dau Tieng (Dau Tieng Sightseeing Area). I decided to leave the pagoda for the timebeing and headed to the lake. Dau Tieng Lake is one of the biggest manmade lakes in South East Asia, with a surface area of 270 sq. km and a volume of 1.6 billion cubic metres of water. Work on it started in 1981 and was completed in early 1985. It is the main water source for the rice, sugar cane and cassava fields of Tay Ninh and Cu Chi, and acts as a water provider for the Thu Duc Water Treatment Plant. It’s also the source of the Saigon River, which until it was diverted, started in Cambodia. Standing at the dyke, I felt a lovely sweet smell in the air as the cool breeze gently touched my skin and hair. The lake

was calm and had many different hues of blue, reflecting the bright blue sky. A few fishing boats were slowly gliding along its surface while three teenagers were attempting to swim in the lake despite a warning sign. There were also a bunch of tourists taking selfies, using the lake as their background.

The Pagoda Thai Son Pagoda has two locations — the bigger one is for monks, located at the foot of one of the mountains and the other one is for nuns. Built in 1988, the main pagoda covers five hectares and has a giant welcome gate roofed with green tiles. There is also a 36-metre tower with nine floors, a 12-metre female Buddha in the main yard and an inner sanctum lying opposite. According to a drinks vendor,

PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY

the area gets crowded every mid-August, at the time of the Vietnamese and Buddhist equivalent of Mother’s Day. I wandered to the far end of the pagoda and got curious about a stone staircase that was said to have more than 1,000 steps up to the top. Due to the steep incline, I stopped at an abandoned rest spot where there were several broken plastic stools and hammocks. Surrounded by rocks, bamboo trees and an earthy smell, I continued to climb, the noise of insects the only sound breaking up the stillness. There was nothing special at the top except another giant statue of a female Buddha and a full view over the lake. The view was not that great as the trees blocked part of the vista, yet three men and a woman were sat there playing cards. They asked where I was from while

I settled down on a chair and ordered something to drink.

A Bonus When I got to the bottom of the steps, a motorbike attendant told me that people are not allowed to drive through the pagoda, and said that I should take the road behind the pagoda, following the U-shape of the mountain to go through a bamboo forest. It was, he said, an unusual experience. Halfway along I pulled my bike over at a street stall — I saw a number of people crossing the road heading to the forest. “It’s Bamboo Stream. You can leave your bike here,” a street vendor told me. The stream starts at the top of the highest mountain here and its water level depends on the season. According to the vendor, the best months for visiting the

stream are from July to February. I left the stream and the bamboo and realised that I had travelled for over six hours without eating anything — it was already 3pm. I guess I was distracted by the landscape.

Getting There Take AH1 out of Tan Binh towards Cu Chi and then Tay Ninh. When you get to Trang Bang, take the right hand main road, DT782, towards Dau Tieng. At the end of DT782, rather than turning right into Dau Tieng Town, turn left and first right. This takes you to Dau Tieng Lake, close to the mouth of the Saigon River. At the lake turn right and follow the lake road round for about 3km until you get to Thai Son Pagoda.

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 161

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Hanoi Social Club Helio Café Hilton Ha Noi Opera Hotel de l'Opera HA Noi House of Son Tinh Intercontinental International SOS JaFa Joma Joseph's Hotel Kitchen Koto La Badiane La Salsa Le Pub Le Soleil LP - Vinyl Cafe Maison de Tet Decor Manzi Mao's Red Lounge Marilyn Cafe Marriott Melia Hotel Metropole Hotel Millenium Moevenpick Hotel Moose and Roo house Moose and Roo Smoke e ast Nam Novotel Suites Hanoi O'Douceurs

Oriberry Pane E Vino Paris Deli Peace Dental Clinic Pizza 4P'S Polite Pub Press Club Provecho PuKu Pullman Hotel R&R Tavern i Red River Tea RoomManz Rendezvous Hotel Saint Honore Sheraton Sidewalk Sofitel Plaza Somerset spaceBar Spy Bar Tadioto The Cart The KAfe The Republic Toong Coworking Space Tracy's Sports Bar Victoria Hotel & Resort Vip Bikes Wannawaffle Work Room Four

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8162 | Word | Word JulyAugust 2016 |2016 wordvietnam.com | wordvietnam.com

Tavern Tea Maison That's Cafe The Bike Shop The Buger Box The Deck The Fan Club The KAfe The Observatory The Racha Room ll The Society Bar and Gri Tokyo BBQ Trois Gourmand's Uncle's Bill Vanila & Butter Vesper Victoria Healthcare VIII RE Villa Royale Treasures ic West Coast Dental Clin Windsor Plaza Wine Embassy Wood Stock Wrap & Roll Yoko

HCMC Essentials

CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

firstBIKE.com.vn

FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development. JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM

384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3

jett-cycles.com

The showroom home of Jett Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale.

ELITE DENTAL GROUP. 57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3933 3737

info@elitedental.com.vn elitedental.com.vn

Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants, ALL-ON-6 implants, dental implants, prosthodontics, Invisalign & orthodontics. Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114

xedapcaocap.com

Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs.

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available. MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

THE BIKE SHOP CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405

thebikeshopvn.com

The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories. Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals. Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.

M M M DENTAL CLINICS

199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399 STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6282 8822

starlightdental.net

Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800

accadent.com

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 Thao Dien Clinic, 27 Nguyen Ba Lan, Q.2, Tel: (08) 35 191 777

westcoastinternational.com

An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 163

HCMC Essentials

MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS

Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100

maplehealthcare.net

Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service.

M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431

cthomasgallery.com

Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. Now has a second newer gallery at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1

dogmacollection.com

The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.

programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

imported foods, also sells frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET GROCERY & DELI

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630

Annam-gourmet.com

Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. CLASSIC FINE FOODS GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105

classicfinefoods.com

Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441

baotangmythuattphcm.vn

Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions. SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059

san-art.org

San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency

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VEGGY’S GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.

HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671

avedaherbal@gmail.com CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926

catmocspa.com

Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625

galeriequynh.com

In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

Conceptcoiffure.vn MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565

meatworksasia.com

Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.

GROCERS

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of

CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Adam Zakharoff

Email: adamzakharoff@ gmail.com ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038

saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com SAIGON SAINTS

saigonsaints.com

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090

samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010

suhard.amit@yahoo.com

manish@ambrij.com

Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244

FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368

Saigonraiders.com

SPORTS — GENERAL

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034

famenails.com

SAIGON RAIDERS

deepteshgill@gmail.com

Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

glowsaigon.com PHUONG HA

SPORTS

npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598

FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

astere@hotmail.fr

saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB

saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899

James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

Saigon-ultimate.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794

xrockclimbing.com

HAIR BAR CONTEMPORARY SALON

68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108

hairbar.vn

A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188

Indochine-spa.com.vn

Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment. JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737

Jasminespa.vn

Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments. MERCI 17/6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8799

merci-space.com

A unique nail spa and bistro where you can pamper your nails, enjoy a massage, meet your friends, enjoy a meal and sip a cocktail. Provides only waterless nails treatments to avoid bacteria and dry skin as well as Zoya and Kure Bazaar non-toxic varnishes. QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails. Cheap prices, too. SOI SPA 6th & Rooftop, 44 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8678

soispa.vn

A lovely little place with nail services, shampoo head massages, and other simple treatments for a quick getaway experience. Also features a rooftop terrace and a great little drinks and wine selection. Open daily from 10am to 9pm.

SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575

spatropic.com

Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR

161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930

www.acc.vn

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery. AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759

americaneyecentervn.com

American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available. CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366

cmi-vietnam.com

This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

care provider that can offer a countrywide network of integrated clinics for foreign and local populations, FMP’s main specialties include family medicine, pediatrics and emergency medicine as well as health checks and work permit health-tests. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500

fvhospital.com

International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care. FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167

fvhospital.com

State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations. HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068

hanhphuchospital.com

Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 HAPPINESS ORIENTAL MEDICINE ACUPUNCTURE CLINIC ACUPUNCTURE

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684969 Well-known traditional Chinese medicine clinic in Phu My Hung specialising in acupuncture. Established in Ho Chi Minh City for over a decade.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

34 Le Duan Street, Q1; 95 Thao Dien Q2, Tel: (08) 3822 7848

vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice (FMP) is the largest and one of the oldest foreign, privately-owned, international health care providers in Vietnam. As the only health

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and in-

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HCMC

ternational healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. Contact them now for a free quote. IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362

Essentials

insuranceinasia.com SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 107B Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 01676 71 75 79

sianclinic.com

The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990

stamfordskin.com

Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE

187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545

victoriavn.com

Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

INSURANCE PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM 4th/12th Floor Continental Tower, 81-83-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908

pacificcross.com.vn

Pacific Cross Vietnam recently changed names, from Blue Cross Vietnam, to align with their regional sister companies. Together they form the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience providing health and travel insurance to people who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and

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Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs. For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998

libertyinsurance.com.vn

International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more. NOAH JAMES INSURANCE AGENCY Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858

noahjamesinsurance.com Skype: jp.global

A full service broker offering expatriates and local Vietnamese customized solutions from highly rated insurers for life, health, travel, as well as speciality cover for student travel, medevac, international marine, extreme athletics and adventure. For details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance.com TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367

ten-pac.com

A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36

theabcis.com

Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British Government Inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8% of schools worldwide. ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA, the Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Provides education for two to 18

year olds in a supportive and friendly environment. AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040

aisvietnam.com

The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804

etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc

Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life. BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335

bisvietnam.com

Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam. CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456

cis.edu.vn

The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490

dancentervn.com

Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780

helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700

Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691

Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679

paa.com.vn

Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes. PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722

saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360

Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846

vin-space.com

Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Has a newly built campus.

education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students. SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901

ssis.edu.vn

Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

ishcmc.com

HCMC’s most established international school offers three International Baccalaureate programmes for students from two to 18 years old. ISHCMC will be launching a new secondary campus in 2017, featuring Vietnam’s first Innovation Center, a 350-seat professional theatre, NBA-sized basketball courts and a 25m competitive swimming pool.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY — AMERICAN ACADEMY 16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

aavn.edu.vn

ISHCMC — American Academy is a U.S. curriculum secondary school for students aged 11 to 18 years old. Early university credits, a 1:1 University Counseling Program, and an extensive EAL program set our graduates on the road to 100% acceptance rate at overseas universities and a US$1 million scholarship fund.

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944

kidsclubsaigon.com

Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes. EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257

eishcmc.com

The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99

issp.edu.vn

Vietnam’s only international school offering a U.S. curriculum for children aged 18 months to 11 years old. With 100% English language immersion, a library containing over 13,500 English books and more than 60% of students achieving above grade level English, ISSP students are well prepared for secondary school at ISHCMC or ISHCMC - American Academy.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639

montessori.edu.vn

Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities. RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122

renaissance.edu.vn

Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch. SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081

saigonkidskindergarten.com

SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827

saigonstarschool.edu.vn

Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs. SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236

smartkidsinfo.com

This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment. THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223

tas.edu.vn

Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University, as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners.

M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694

easysaigon.com

The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website

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HCMC Essentials

helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome. HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700

namhouse.com.vn

Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales. RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855

residentvietnam.com

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282

snap.com.vn

Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs. THE NEST 216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 580800

thenesthousing.com

Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS

185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS

77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690

saigonscootercentre.com

Just relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs. Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and bike rentals.

M M M RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430

adecco.com.vn

Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office. HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888

hr2b.com

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.

vieclambank.com

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373

vietnamworks.com

The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many. Also a good site for expat jobseekers.

RELOCATION AGENTS

chiscafe.com

Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check the website for details. Also does visa extensions. SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273

nga.natalie@gmail.com saigonbikerentals.com

Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and Excels. Call for details and prices.

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ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220

alliedpickfords.com

With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services. ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799

asiantigers-mobility.com

Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations. JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field. LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322

logicalmoves.net

Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065

santaferelo.com

SERVICED APARTMENTS AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071

agsfourwinds.com

A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678

the-ascott.com

Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant

furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888

intercontinental.com/saigonres

Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111

norfolkmansion.com.vn

Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

Riverside-apartments.com

Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle. SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288

sherwoodresidence.com

Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service. SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922

somerset.com

Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

SPORTS & FITNESS CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620

laholista.com

Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

EXILE INK 608

57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956

exileinkvietnam.com SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311

saigonbodyart.com SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090

tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net

SPIRIT TATTOO

206B Le Van Sy, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 01204 738939 (Fiona)

facebook.com/ spirittatts

Respected tattoo and body-piercing studio specialising in traditional Japanese, black and grey, portraiture, realism, western traditional, neo-traditional, dot work and geometric.

TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838

tattoosaigon.com

goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

THE LANDMARK CLUB GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com

In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

BODY AND MIND BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326

VERTICAL ACADEMY

This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn

cyril-and-you.com

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425

cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521

lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567

galaxycine.vn IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451

idecaf.gov.vn

Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 920612

A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before, a place to climb. Has a number of climbing sections, runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).

ANIMAL DOCTORS INTERNATIONAL 1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2. (08) 6260 3980

animaldoctors.vn

Offers the very highest levels of compassionate, competent and professional veterinary medicine and surgery to all pets in Ho Chi Minh City with international veterinary surgeons. Upholding international standards, the team works tirelessly to help clients with the support of a dedicated surgical suite, digital X-Ray and comprehensive diagnostic facilities.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES

SPORTS GARMENTS

SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588

score-tech.net

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771

vietnameselanguagegarden. com

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GENERAL FITNESS

CINEBOX

CLIMBING GYM

VETERINARY CLINICS

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168

A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals.

Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

nutrifort.com

vlstudies.com

SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

saigonhash.com

Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km. VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run. SHERATON FITNESS HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE HEALTH CLUB & GYM

CGV CINEMAS

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388

cgv.vn

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but consistent membership. STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

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BAR STOOL MALT

PHOTOS BY SIÂN KAVANAGH & VU HA KIM VY

alt looks a bit like the set of a TV sit-com; the mid-range size allows for privacy and space, while also being small enough to not get lost. Decorated with exposed brick walls, gold leaf murals, and a highly coveted shuffleboard table, Malt is the type of place you could stumble into during a rainstorm, and then realise five hours later that you’ve found your new regular. Since opening in December 2015, Malt has found itself part of the downtown Saigon pub rotation, offering cold beer, good food and enjoyable space. Until this month Malt didn’t open until 4pm, however now they are serving daily brunch from 9.30am and will have a happy hour every day. What makes Malt stand out on the Saigon pub scene is the lack of indoor smoking; the inside space is air-conditioned with clean air, a true rarity in a city of smokers.

her corporate day job to open Malt with her husband and a friend, and though her days may be longer now, she has no reservations about her decision to open the bar. “[We] wanted to create a space where we would enjoy hanging out, and quite naturally things started coming together,” says Thao. They have been known to host regular darts and shuffleboard tournaments, which have drawn quite large crowds since there are practically no other venues in Saigon with shuffleboard. The simple yet addictive game pairs easily with good beer and company, as long as your companions aren’t too competitive. The house Bloody Mary (VND80,000 with brunch) finds a balance of spicy, sweet and savoury, served up with a single stick of celery and a rasher of homemade bacon.

The Saigon Shuffle

Smoky Bacon

Thao Tran, one of the three owners, quit

“Our friend makes [this bacon] and it’s not

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sold anywhere, lots of our regulars will come in specifically just for it,” says Thao. I can confirm, as someone who is not a massive fan of pork, that this bacon is heavenly, with a delicious smoked taste and extremely tender. The bar here has a menu of signature cocktails, however the Moscow Mule (VND140,000) is a huge hit with the regulars, an icy, citrus treat served up in a copper mug to cool you down on the steamiest of Saigon afternoons. They also offer a large range of craft beer on tap, much of it locally produced in Saigon, as well as at the time of writing, the crowd favourite Saigon Cider on draught. Malt lives up to its name by stocking almost 40 varieties of whisky, mostly single malt, as well as offering sample sizes if you want to try your tongue at as many malt whiskeys as there are to offer. — Siân Kavanagh Malt is located 46 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, HCMC. They can be found online at facebook.com/ maltsaigon

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HCMC On The Town

BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon. ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City). BROMA, NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP

41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail. BUDDHA BAR RESTOBAR

7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345

Buddhabarsaigon.com APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB

2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124

apocalypsesaigon.com

An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back. BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR

90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2588

biacraft.com

As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City, so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea, right? Well, it is. Only small, but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap and by the bottle, Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has a decent food menu. BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB

95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details. BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD

40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452

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Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys. CHAMPION SPORTS BAR SPORTS BAR

45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4202 A recent addition to the sports-and-watering-hole drinking scene, Champion is located in the Backpackers’ area and shows all the major televised sports. Also has a pool table, darts, tasty Western and Vietnamese food, great cocktails and ice cold beer. Western managed, wonderful local staff. #BeAChampion.

out their daily food specials.

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE

EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR

Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Night live music and DJs. GAME ON SPORTS BAR

115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898

gameonsaigon.com

A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more. HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605

hoavien.vn

The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer.

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR

24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports.

55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack? A sports bar. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Sleek lines, modern décor, elegant and spacious, dartboards and of course, lots of large screens to watch the televised sports. Check

lastcallsaigon.com

If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE

LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR

175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner.

Tel: 0906 912730

www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO

Tel: (08) 3898 3747

www.chezguido.com DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030

www.dominos.vn LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR

207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine. MALT 46-48 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Malt is a non-smoking bar in downtown Saigon offering shuffleboard, darts, craft beers on tap, signature cocktails and delicious tapas and pub grub. Its unpretentious vibe and casual atmosphere will have you feeling at home.

EAT.VN www.eat.vn

HUNGRYPANDA. VN

www.hungrypanda.vn KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999

www.kfcvietnam. com.vn

LOTTERIA

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn

PIZZA HUT (PHD) MAY RESTAURANT & BAR

Tel: (08) 3838 8388

www.pizzahut.vn

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180

lahabana-saigon.com

Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

D2 SPORTS BAR

59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122

GAMES & CRAFT BEER BAR

CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

LAST CALL

LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

mayrestaurant.com.vn

An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space. NUMBER FIVE EXPAT BAR

44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music. OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen

SCOOZI

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com

An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon. O’BRIEN’S

Lai, Q1

saigonsoul.com

The ultimate in poolside entertainment, Saigon Soul is defined by its great party atmosphere. Booming house music, cold drinks and beautiful people. What better way to spend a Saturday? Runs every Saturday from late November until mid May.

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198

irish-barsaigon.com

This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls. ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience. PEACHES CURRY PUB

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt. PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS

46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796

phattysbar.com

From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON OUTCAST

SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520

facebook.com/PitchersPMH

Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198

Saigonoutcast.com

Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets. SAIGON RANGER ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559

facebook.com/saigonranger

Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance.

CARTOON BAR

S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks. SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY POOL & DAY CLUB

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le

5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738

Stormp.vn

Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. A good place to watch the live sports. THE CUBE BAR

subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks. VINYL BAR MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623

vinylbarsaigon.com

A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

HIP RESTOBAR

31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798

facebook.com/thecubesaigon

A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

WINE BAR 38 CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

THE OBSERVATORY BAR, ART & DJ SPACE

5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.

XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468

xusaigon.com

This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701

SAIGON SAIGON BAR LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR

9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday. SHRINE BAR LOUNGE BAR

shrinebarsaigon.com

Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere. SEVENTEEN SALOON THEMED MUSIC BAR

RUBY SOHO

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR

61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1 PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL

STORM P

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007

seventeensaloon.com.vn

Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999

facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM

Designed as a Laneway-style restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with

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TOP EATS JAKE’S BBQ

ibs. Burgers. Pulled pork. Grilled chicken. Steak. Sausage. Meat. Lovely, lovely meat. Most people love meat; ergo, most people love BBQ, which is finally reaching Saigon in a big way. Not the grilled meats that have long been a local staple, but the kind of smoky, slow-cooked, silky-soft delights that fill the air with their scent and the mouth with drool. BBQ American style. Jake’s BBQ on Pasteur is the newest player in this boomtown scene. The sheer volume of food stunned me before I took bite one. And when I did? The quality of the food, the mouth-filling savour of it, made me feel like I was back in some battered Oakland BBQ

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shack of the carnivore gods. To my repeated delight, Jake’s also carries my personal favourite bottled beer; Boont Amber Ale, a drink well suited to the task of eating my own body weight in pork. It’s also a nice, traditionally-appointed BBQ place fitted to the long and narrow style of Saigon buildings. Jake himself and a handful of waitresses handle the service, and the task of moving food to feeder chugs along without incident.

The Task of Eating My Body Weight in Pork When doing an article like this, sometimes the chefs decide, and sometimes we do. Since I’d been to Jake’s the night before

and eaten a fantastic bacon cheeseburger (charred on the outside, juicy pink on the inside, melted cheddar cheese settled over crispy bacon) I decided to go for more traditional fare. We began with the Tower of Power (VND90,000), a foot-high stack of onion rings. One look and I knew I’d never be able to finish what was to come. The onion rings are tasty, with the onions cooked enough to sweeten without losing their crispiness. Light on the oil and heavy on the crunch, I found the batter good if a touch too heavily applied. Next came the Parfait, which requires some explanation. “The Parfait? That’s kind of a joke,” Jake

PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

said, shaking his head and chuckling when I ordered it. Joke or not, it was terrific, a one-stop-dish for all that’s best in BBQ. A swirl of buttery mashed potatoes, a dash of beans, and a generous handful of pulled pork served like an ice-cream sundae. The photographer, Bao, and I shared bite after bite; the damn thing never seemed to end. We also got the Flying Pig Sandwich (VND210,000), a mighty meal unto self, loaded with every pork product found West of the Mississippi. One bite and I felt my protein needs for the week were covered, as well as my salt needs for the year.

Ribs Are Serious Business For the piece de resistance, what would do

but a half-rack of ribs? The St. Louis Ribs Half Rack (VND575,000) came, and let me tell you, the pictures cannot do it justice. The meat pulled away from the bone at the touch of the teeth — and while I may prefer the chewier style of ribs favoured in BBQ competitions, that doesn’t mean I can’t recognize skill when I chew it up and swallow it.

The Sauce Maketh the BBQ The real magic was in the sauce, the heart of any BBQ joint. Tangy, smoky, sweet, bold; it’s the best BBQ sauce I’ve had since I landed here five-and-a-half years ago. Basted on in layers as the meat cooks, it’s a crunchy,

chewy crust that complements the whippedcream softness of the meat. Not joking — it was also much cleaner than most BBQ because the sauce is cooked onto the meat so deftly, making this one of the rare times I didn’t have to scrub spots out of my shirt after eating. “In 10 years, I might sell the sauce,” Jake says when I bring up the idea of bottling this tangy goodness. I guess I’ll just have to wait. Luckily, of course, I can get as much as I want if I go to Jake’s BBQ. — Owen Salisbury Jake’s BBQ is located at 50 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC or online at facebook.com/ jakesbbqatmogambo

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HCMC On The Town

Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker. AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm. BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003

sam.nguyen197@gmail.com

A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657

cafethoaivien.com

Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz. COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL

157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1

coffeebean.com.vn

Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contempo-

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rary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth. DECIBEL INTERNATIONAL

79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115

Decibel.vn

Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials. GUANABANA SMOOTHIES

40 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6685 4160

klasik.coffee

Nitro cold brew coffee, single origin coffee and healthy food. Klasik Coffee Roasters is a small coffee shop with a passion for seeking high quality coffee beans from around the world to roast in Saigon. Holding the belief that each cup tells its own story, drinking coffee at Klasik is all about pleasure and experience: the aroma, the taste, the warmth and the senses inspired by each and every cup. Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

L’USINE

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH

guanabanasmoothies.com

An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme. HIDEAWAY

First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703

lusinespace.com

French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

INTERNATIONAL

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222

Hideawaycafe-saigon.com

Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair. I.D. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE

34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910

Idcafe.net

Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee. KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495

facebook.com/m2ccafe

At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town. MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400

facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee

Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM

8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East. THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven. THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330

themorningcafe.com.vn

Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent. THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272

facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe

Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe. THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE

158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open

table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000. THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205

facebook.com/thingscafe

Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ

Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution. 27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix. AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL

27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424

alfrescosgroup.com

The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.

masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2. AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157

aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ

23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772

auparcsaigon.com

Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor. ASHOKA NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177

ashokaindianrestaurant. com

Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare. BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661

babaskitchen.in

This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka

BLACK CAT AMERICAN

13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055

blackcatsaigon.com

Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river. BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front. BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas. BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL

CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592

boomarang.com.vn

Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH

38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries. CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE

40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502

Chiscafe.com

This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, build-your-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service. CHRIS FOOD ONLINE TRADITIONAL FRENCH / DESSERTS

Tel: 0909 365525 (English) / 0909 320717 (French)

chrisfoodonline.blogspot. com or facebook.com/muasaleoff2014

Traditional French cuisine and exotic dishes from the Reunion Island served up in Ho Chi Minh City and delivered to your door. All dishes are prepared with fresh ingredients, nothing is frozen. Options include cheesecake, tiramisu, lasagna, chicken curries and muffin. All speciality foods are cooked to order. CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN

11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329

saigonrestaurantgroup.com

New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE

16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311

A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try their pad thai — to die for.

sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients.

CORSO

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL

117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000. ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN

52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4327

elbowroom.com.vn

The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains. EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909

elgaucho.com.vn

A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town. EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN

Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The

GANESH 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786

ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com

The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service. HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. HOANG YEN PAN-VIETNAMESE

7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town. HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066

hogsbreathcafe.com.vn

Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

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HCMC On The Town

INAHO

LA CUISINE

SUSHI / SASHIMI

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town.

48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931

Alfrescosgroup.com

Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks. KABIN CANTONESE

Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

marriott.com

Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000. KOH THAI CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs. KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot! L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN

Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

178 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

lacuisine.com.vn

This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list. LE CORTO CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0671

facebook.com/LeCorto

Open for lunch and set dinner, this beautifully designed restaurant and bar seamlessly mixes contemporary and with classic. With a menu cooked up by reputed chef Sakal Phoeung, and with a contemporary twist to traditional French fare, this is a place to enjoy the luxuries of fine cuisine and even finer wine. LE JARDIN CLASSIC FRENCH

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

some, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace. LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests. MAD HOUSE CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, RESTAURANT

6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4009

facebook.com/madsaigon

Set over a pool in a leafy, tropical garden, the beautiful rustic décor is matched by a darkwood, aircon interior. Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all with a European influence. Also has an extensive wine list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour. MARKET 39 INTERNATIONAL BUFFET

LION CITY SINGAPOREAN

45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371

lioncityrestaurant.com

Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. LOVEAT MEDITERRANEAN

29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727

loveat.vn

Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere. LU BU CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN

97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371

luburestaurant.com

Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on whole-

Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD

19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

may.restaurant19@gmail. com

Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD

23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478

info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style

Bistro out front. MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN

1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies. NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE

136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996

namgiao.com

If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent. NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality. OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES

18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late. PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN

87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282

pendolasco.vn

Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2. PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520

facebook.com/PitchersPMH Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious

restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat. PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION

8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838

pizza4ps.com

This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties. POP FRIES CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES

14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938 754851 A street food eatery concept that originates from Los Angeles and New York, and born from a passion for sharing, here it’s all about the loaded fries. The potatoes are twice-cooked and come piled high with a range of inventive toppings. Funky décor and long benches make up the mix. PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints. QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE

8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500

facebook.com/quanutut

It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

SAN FU LOU

excellent upstairs cigar room.

CANTONESE KITCHEN

Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513

sanfulou.com

RACHA ROOM CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 6253 7711

theracharoom.com

The Racha Room delivers Thai accented Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on high quality ingredients. Racha features a large selection of spirits at a seated bar and high table to ensure drinking along with eating remains central to the experience. The current and future of Asian-inspired drinking and dining is right here at the Racha Room.

REFINERY

RELISH & SONS GOURMET BURGER BAR 44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 01207 214294; 105-107 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: 0909 004294

relishandsons.com

Relish & Sons burgers are lovingly made with a healthy food philosophy in mind and fresh high quality ingredients. The beef patties are 100% Australian grass-fed; the buns are made with a reduced sugar and salt content. Burger relishes such as chutneys are all made inhouse from scratch.

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509

therefinerysaigon.com

A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains. RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

SAFFRON

Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further. SEOUL HOUSE

SAIGON CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET

Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com

If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

TAMAGO

23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

PAN-JAPANESE

KOREAN

33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining. SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE

Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221

shangpalace.com.vn

Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN

9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798

skewers-restaurant.com

Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an

tamagoresto@gmail.com

Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

PAN-VIETNAMESE

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 STOKER CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE 44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 3826 8691

stokerwoodfiredgrill.com

One of the world’s oldest culinary techniques — grilling over a wood fire. Stoker kitchen uses different woods to infuse foods with different smoky flavours. These techniques revolutionize live fire cooking by providing precise heat control through the use of a grilling surface that can be adjusted to different cooking heights above the hot coals.

SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

SKEWERS

39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634

TEMPLE CLUB

seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

PAN-MEDITERRANEAN

51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Reservations advised.

SHRI

on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689

Templeclub.com.vn

Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices. THE DECK MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632

thedecksaigon.com

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

soraesushi.com

Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take

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KNOW YOUR CITY RIVER LIFE

any of us view rivers as background elements in our landscape, as open space, as a pleasant vista. In Brisbane the Brisbane River was historically seen — as is the Saigon River — as a place for the mining of sand and gravel, and of industrial transport. The Brisbane City Council under previous Lord Mayor Jim Soorley embarked on a strategy of developing the visual amenity of the river. The riverfront wharves were dismantled and moved, the riverfront industries relocated, the dredging of the river stopped, a pedestrian walkway along the river bank was constructed, a new passenger transport system introduced and new apartments and restaurants built along the river. These initiatives have transformed the city. The city was rebranded the River City and an annual two-week programme of entertainment was started called the River Festival. This reclamation of the river had significant economic benefits for the city with visitors able to enjoy the river while dining.

Amenities However, the gentrification of the Brisbane River removed many of the elements that made the this waterway interesting. There were no more barges, or tugs and the river became quiet with little traffic. In losing its traditional functions — some of which

180 | Word August 2016 | wordvietnam.com

were quite benign — it removed part of its visual amenity. A working group was then established to find new ways of making the river more exciting. Ho Chi Minh City contains 3,039km of waterways with the Saigon River as the centrepiece of the city. It is a working river and as a visual spectacle, more exciting than the Brisbane River. Unlike in Brisbane, it is still used as an economic resource supporting the growth and economy of the city. Unfortunately, the river is heavily polluted through a lack of regulatory resources. A trip down the waterway reveals kilometres of squatter housing with effluent flowing directly into the river. The pollution in Go Dau port on Thi Vai river, south of Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, was once so bad that Japanese cargo ships refused to dock for fears it would corrode the hulls of their ships. Lately, great improvements have been made to the river edges in several parts of the city with the creation of esplanades, and there has been an improvement in water quality. In particular, the work done on the Nhieu Loc-Thi Nghe canal, although as can be seen by the growing pollution in this canal, it needs to be constantly dredged and kept clean.

Complements What we have not yet seen is the river’s use for public transport other than those old

BY ED HAYSOM

Russian hydrofoils that hammer down to Vung Tau and back. Could we not envisage a river where the two uses of the river are complementary? Given the extraordinary number of canals and waterways across the city, could we not see the emergence of a water taxi service Bangkok that would relieve pressure on the roads? Around the hubs of this public transport service, other uses such as restaurants and retail would emerge. Could not this river transport function through Uber or Grab? Imagine being able to dial up your own water taxi to go home. No visit to Europe is complete until you have sat in a café by the water’s edge to watch the world go by. In Saigon there are comparatively few restaurants that allow you to have that experience, which is staggering given the number of people living here. If a small city like Brisbane can achieve it and reap the economic benefits, surely Saigon can, too. Although I understand that plans have been developed, Ho Chi Minh City still does not have a grand esplanade such as Shanghai’s Bund or Phnom Penh’s Sisowath Quay or Singapore’s Clarke Quay as a city centrepiece that embraces its heritage and addresses its future. Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi Minh City. You can contact him on ehaysom@ modehaysomarchitects.com

On The Town

PHOTO BY VU HA KIM VY

HCMC

ZEUS GREEK / KEBAB

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999

facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM

Designed as a Lanewaystyle restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

TIN NGHIA VEGAN

9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too. ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897

vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom

This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

M M M

STREET FOOD

COM TAM

84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan

facebook.com/vespersaigon

Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.

PHO PHU VUONG

BUN BO HUE

PHO BO

26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1

CHI THONG

PHO DAU

SUSHI KO

BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI

PHO BO

288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3

STREET SUSHI

195 Co Giang, Q1

COM GA XOI MO SU SU

339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh

122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4

PHO HOA

THE LUNCH LADY

VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN

PHO BO & PHO GA

260C Pasteur, Q3

DAILY CHANGING DISHES

55 Tu Xuong, Q3

COM TAM 40A

23 Hoang Sa, Q1

PHO LE

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

COM TAM

PHO BO

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BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1

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Gia Dinh Hospital 1.5km

The Final Say THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

A Sharp Exit

n the late early 1980s and early 1990s a series of adverts for Harp Lager appeared on British TV. Each had the same set-up idea. A man gets himself in a difficult situation and has to make a run for it — or as the adverts famously say, Time for a Sharp Exit. The man ends up in the pub with a pint of Harp Lager and of course, although nothing has been solved, everything is all okay again. The man is smiling and the satisfaction of that first sip of Harp is just, well, satisfying. The EU Referendum held in the UK on Jun. 23 reminds me of that advert. Like every country, the UK has problems. Most poignant is that the country’s population don’t feel they are being listened to; the vote to leave the EU was, a protest against big business, political correctness, mass immigration, foreign involvement in the UK, the banking industry, the gap between rich and poor and membership of an

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organisation whose leaders are not elected democratically. It was a protest against those in power, along with their self-styled experts, making and imposing decisions that the majority of the country’s active voters were unhappy with. And because these people weren’t being listened to, they marked their ballots in favour of a Sharp Exit, although whether 52% of the UK’s voting population are presently down the pub nursing a pint of lager is debatable. Regardless, they’ve had their say.

To Say or Not to Say For me, the most interesting part of the protest was the rejection of political correctness, perhaps the overriding social and moral value of our day. Defined as “the avoidance of forms of expression or action that are perceived to exclude, marginalize, or insult groups of people who are socially

Brexit, Vietnam and the backlash against tolerance. Words by Nick Ross

disadvantaged or discriminated against”, it means that no matter what we think or believe, we can’t say or do anything that is perceived to be ‘discriminatory’, ‘sexist’, ‘prejudiced’, ‘biased’ or ‘racist’. In terms of the UK it means that regardless of how you feel, you have to accept the mass immigration of the past 15 years. As a friend in London told me reluctantly, the problem with ‘foreigners’ is that “they don’t integrate.” It was only when I pressed him that he started to speak out — he didn’t want to say anything because he worried people would think he was racist. “They don’t make friends with you and have nothing to do with you unless you’re providing a service to them or them a service to you. I don’t mind immigration, but I do mind it when it takes over a whole area. Finchley [the area I grew up in] is just not the same.” It’s a big generalization and it is one

person’s opinion. Yet it reminds me a little of the bubble foreigners tend to live in when they move to countries like Vietnam. Add in the fact that foreigners are generally rich, and there is some more fuel to stoke the fire.

Us and Them Vietnam is notoriously politically incorrect. Foreigners are called nguoi nuoc ngoai, people from outside countries. In real terms it means you’re not one of us as you are from elsewhere; it’s an us-and-them scenario. Westerners are called tay, thang tay if you want to be rude, and the term for backpacker, tay ba lo, is largely derogatory. Black people are da den (black-skinned) or My den (American black), Chinese are nguoi tau, or boat people, and until recently, Khmer were known as nguoi Mien, a term that has since been banned from official use. People laugh at you if you’re too fat or

too thin, if you’re too tall or too short, or if you’re male, effeminate and gay. Men can be misogynistic or sexist and get away with it, Africans and the Khmer are generally looked down on, and being against having foreigners or immigrants living in Vietnam is not deemed to be racist. Indeed the concept of ‘racism’, phan biet chung toc, is alien to most Vietnamese. Yet, as the values of the West infiltrate the rest of the world, this is starting to change. Younger Vietnamese or those who have studied or worked overseas are becoming more politically correct. Pride movements are gaining traction and official support, marital violence is frowned upon, and activism is on the rise. However, read through the comments on Facebook groups and you’ll notice something; if a foreigner gives their opinion on poignant issues in Vietnam, more often than not they’re shouted down by someone

who’s Vietnamese. And the shout down or put down? You’re a foreigner, you don’t have any idea, so shut up or go home. So let’s say Vietnam had their own vote, a vote as to whether foreigners should be allowed to live in Vietnam, a Vexit so to speak. How would it turn out? It’s an interesting thought. Political correctness requires — in fact, demands — tolerance. Stretch people’s tolerance levels too much and they react. There’s a reason the UK voted for their Sharp Exit, and why the likes of Donald Trump, Geert Wilders or Marine Le Pen are gaining so much support. Large numbers of the Western voting public feel they’ve been pushed too far and are fed up of being repeatedly told that if you don’t see things in a certain way, you are backward and stupid. Overstretch a rubber band and it will snap.

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The Final Say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

Sound the Retreat from Halong Bay and Sapa Time to look for some other, less played-out destinations instead, says Edward Dalton

othing I write can detract from the natural, stunning beauty of Halong Bay. It absolutely deserves its crown as one of Vietnam’s greatest treasures. This is the first problem. Combined with the 2016 TripIndex naming Hanoi as the cheapest city for a summer holiday for the third year in a row, the influx of tourists continues to increase and overwhelm the already delicate ecosystem of the bay. Local competition is fierce, and the result is that more than 550 cruise ships capable of serving 10 million passengers are docked in the bay, despite only around

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2.5 million tourists visiting last year. Mark Bowyer, an editor from the Rusty Compass travel website, has spoken about the impact this has had on the bay. “Hundreds of boats cruise the bay each day and few of them have proper water and sewage treatment. The water is visibly dirty in places and there’s lots of rubbish floating around,” he wrote in October last year. “Some of this is tourism-related and some of it is caused by the heavy coal shipping that takes place through the bay.” On top of that, in July 2015, Quang Ninh Province saw its worst flooding for

40 years. This caused many of the area’s open coal pits to overflow into the bay, severely threatening the ecosystem. Dao Trong Hung from the Vietnam Academy of Science and Technology said he was concerned for the biodiversity of Halong in the wake of the floods. “The toxins in the water will destroy various kinds of aquatic life,” he said. Coal not only contains high levels of sulphur, but also, in some areas, metals such as lead, zinc and mercury.

Health and Safety Gone Mad Another big problem is safety. In 2011,

12 people died when a cruise ship sank. The valves connecting the junk’s engine cooling pipes to the water had been left open during the night, swamping the hull. A passenger fell nearly 20 feet from the top deck of a cruise ship in 2010, because the wooden railings had rotted so extensively. Repairs, as they are optimistically called, usually just involve covering up rotted or broken parts with formica, or other shortcut solutions. Despite local officials introducing new measures intended to cut down on the number of ‘cowboy’ companies operating cruises in the bay, in May 2016, four people were hospitalised after a boat carrying 40 people was engulfed by a fire and sank. Vice Chairman of the provincial People’s Committee Le Quang Tung said that as of 2015, 81% of the Halong Bay fleet are wooden ships. Officials aim to replace them all with metal ships by 2030.

50 Shades of Green Located near the Chinese border, the quaint, lush mountain town of Sapa is a haven for tourists seeking respite from the overcrowding, pollution and traffic of Hanoi. Except it isn’t, anymore. In March 2015, Lao Dong news published

a damning report on the state that Sapa has been reduced to, courtesy of booming tourist numbers and a failure to update the infrastructure to deal with them. It speaks of dozens of new hotels, garbage left uncollected in the streets, and traffic caused by large buses arriving outside hotels throughout the day and doing 10-minute U-turns in the narrow streets. Coordination of the chaos is left to tour guides and hotel staff, with the lack of police or urban management staff resulting in people taking extreme liberties with their parking habits and obedience of other laws.

Alternatives and Solutions As visitors, we must carry some responsibility to ensure these places continue dazzling people for decades to come. Throw your rubbish in a bin. Glare menacingly at those who don’t, whether local or foreign. Don’t assume the price of your visa or ticket entitles you to treat a place how you want, so show some respect. Do some research beyond the first page of Google results, and only part with your money if the company receiving it have a

proven record of giving a toss about safety and their impact on the environment. Even better, commit backpacker sacrilege and go somewhere else completely. Trang An in Ninh Binh is often called the Halong Bay of the land, and for good reason. The river journey to the Perfume Pagoda in the Huong Tich mountains boast similar levels of natural beauty, without the toxic water and sinking cruise ships. For a dose of peace and greenery, leave Sapa to the selfie-stick-wielding masses and head up to Ba Be Lake in the northeastern province of Bac Kan for a trekking experience without the smell of diesel fumes and garbage. If you crave the sight of rolling rice fields on picturesque terraces, take a trip to Moc Chau in Son La or Mai Chau in Hoa Binh, where eco-friendly hotels and homestays are slowly starting to emerge. Vietnam has some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world. The damaging impact of tourism doesn’t need to be permanent, and as long as everyone does their part, we can help to keep Vietnam beautiful forever. The opinions expressed in this article are those of the writer and do not necessarily reflect those of this publication

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The Final Say

Ten10

The creative director for Quest Festival, Mark Harris is one of the new breed of event planners based in Hanoi. Photo by Julie Vola What brought you to Hanoi? I was working full time in property for around ten years, but started to feel quite disillusioned. Vietnam had a reputation for authenticity and being less affected by tourism, and Hanoi in particular. I was also told the food was fantastic. My partner at the time was managing a sheltered housing building and the day we found out she was paid less than callcentre staff was the day we decided to sell everything and leave. That was October 2009. The plan was to stay a year.

What was the nightlife scene like when you first arrived? As a newcomer it seemed limited and hard to know where to go and when. There were some people running events, but Hanoi tends to go through peaks and troughs, and that time seemed to be quiet.

How did you come up with the idea for GingerWork? After about three years [in Hanoi], I started organising private events with friends, then we began doing full club installations. Soon there were a few of us collaborating and a friend said that if I wanted to do it properly, I needed to give it a name. From when I was young I used to make crafty gifts and cards for people — I always wrote GingerWork on them. So I used that name.

How important is it to provide something that gets people away from spending all their time in bars and restaurants? A lot of our events involve a bar, but it’s important to provide something other than just drinking. Hanoi’s music and art scene is generated on a grass roots level, so we all rely on each other to come up with ideas and make projects happen. Not just to enjoy but to create space where people can meet, exchange ideas and grow the scene.

You’ve been involved in Quest since it first started. How difficult is it to put such a festival together? It’s hard to believe how far we have come from the first night with 250 people and a sound system. It has without doubt been the most challenging project I have ever been involved in. However, we have always managed to make it happen and there are very few regrets — each festival has been a step forward and a huge learning curve. There is no way we could have achieved what we have without the super human levels of enthusiasm and contribution from

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everyone who has been part of the teams each year. The hardest part is the sheer volume of time it takes to bring the festival together.

Vietnamese-run projects and collaborations. Vietnamese artists are developing their craft very quickly.

As an event planner, what are the main hurdles you have to cross to get things done?

What needs to be improved?

Aside from the physicality of just trying to get everything together and set up, the main hurdle is curation. Personally it’s about making the right decisions and learning to empower people. The key is knowing [when to listen] and to allow people to develop their ideas with a clear brief. In short, to extricate yourself from the mechanics and work efficiently with your team. There are two main barriers to this — one is that I am hands on. The second is budget. The budgets we work with here are relatively low.

How difficult is it to get the Hanoi public to pay to go to quality events? Is this changing? It is quite hard, there is most definitely a disconnect between perception and reality in terms of what it costs to run a quality event. We try to keep prices affordable, foremost the Vietnamese audience. We always offer early bird prices for Quest and Hanoi-based events. One issue is we have always tried to offer a full programme of performance, however Hanoi is an early night city full of late night people, so people often arrive late. This lowers the incentive of a venue to support a fuller programme.

What has been your most memorable event? The first two GingerWork events — an Alice in Wonderland-inspired party with theatre and an indoor forest, and the Carnival of the Dead at Halloween where we were full at 8pm. Both of these were working with Camille Picquart, Marine Billet and Dana Peterson from Full Circle Studios. Also the improvised private parties and the installations we did for Picnik Electronic. These smaller projects, just done for fun, have always felt special.

What are the main changes you’ve seen in Hanoi’s nightlife since you’ve been living in Vietnam? An increasing variety of projects are running and the community is really connected and sharing inspiration. It seems we attract more people every year, and a high proportion are incredibly talented. We are also seeing far more

We need more venues to work with and better equipment. A variety of musical styles is important as Hanoi tends to go through waves where there is a lot of one genre. The main thing is a clear platform with advice and terms from venues to allow innovators to achieve their ideas. That said, I think Hanoi is pretty awesome as it is. The next Quest Festival takes place from Nov. 4 to Nov. 6 at Son Tinh Camp, Ba Vi, Hanoi. For more info click on questfestival.net

wordvietnam.com | August 2016 Word | 3

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