Word Vietnam June 2014

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

VIETNAM EDITION JUNE 2014

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

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Life's a Bo at

contents

wordvietnam.com

JUNE 2014

054

102

086

THE TALK

INSIDER

010 / Blame Culture

052 / Road Runner

Don’t blame the English

Drag racing with sand and style

056 / Life’s a Boat

088 / The World Cup Special

The World Cup from A to Z, and then some

014 / The Vegetable

024 / Charity of the Month

Saigon’s ARC are fighting the good fight

ARTS 084 / A Decade on the Scene Galerie Quynh turns 10

106 / The New Workroom Four Life after Zone 9

012

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Cycling from Hanoi to Saigon is good exercise

Our cover story navigates boating’s past and possibility

012 / Humans of Hanoi

Better living through bitter melon

LEISURE 102 / H2H: Measuring the Gains

054 / Off the Main Drag

Events to look out for this month

Just like New Yorkers, Hanoians have stories

A village of silk and colonial remains

Urban running with Huy Mai

011 / The Big Five BRIEFINGS

HISTORY 98 / Nha Xa

EAT & DRINK 108 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

French cuisine adapted to Vietnamese climate

109 / Street Snacker Hanoi On the menu: che thai

110 / Street Snacker Phan Rang Experiencing Cham cuisine

108

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contents

118

192

122

138 / Coffee Cup

FASHION 112 / Waiting for their Ship

140 / Recalling Hanoi

Style at the water’s edge

143 / Hanoi Promos

TRAVEL 118 / Climbing Black Virgin Mountain

HCMC 036 / Overscene

Skip the cable cars, that’s cheating

122 / When in Sri Lanka...

Getting beyond the beaches, ruins and jungle

130 / Destination Zero

At the otherworldly Victoria Nui Sam Lodge

132 / Photography Tips

Etienne lets us in on his thought process

135 / Travel Promos HANOI 046 / Overscene 048 / Calendar 136 / Hanoi City Guide

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038 / Calendar 155 / HCMC City Guide 164 / Coffee Cup

168 / Top Eats 170 / Non-Famous Places 174 / Food Promos

COLUMNS 146 / Book Buff 148 / The Alchemist

150 / The Therapist 152 / Medical Buff 154 / Student Eye 158 / Business Buff 160 / Body and Temple 172 / A World of Good 184 / Tieng Viet FINAL SAY 188 / Responsible whiteboard ownership A bad memory is no excuse

190 / Hey, Miss Deezay

Eye-candy DJs are all the rage

192 / The Last Call

Julia Shaw is developing sailing in Vietnam

CONTRIBUTORS This month we asked Word creatives to tell us about their worst boat ride ever.

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

JULIE VOLA

EDITORIAL

Photographer

I was about 10 years old when my parents rented a boat to go to the Bird Islands in Arcachon Bay, France. We set down the anchor not far from the beach and enjoyed a nice family day out. But when it was time to go my dad forgot to account for the tide. We got beached with no food and no water. When six hours later we got going it was around midnight, pitch dark and my dad had to navigate around the oyster farms trying to avoid damaging the boat, all the while arguing with my mother.

HARRY HODGE Writer

We once took a memorable ride on a 40-year-old hydrofoil to Vung Tau. First they tried to put us near the engines, but we refused because it stank. Then it broke down and we floated around while they fixed it. A year later the ‘floating coffin’, as my friend nicknamed the boat, had services suspended due to a fire.

NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor ed@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

ELISABETH ROSEN Staff Editor elisabeth@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Acting Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

HOA LE Staff Editor hoale@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

KAREN HEWELL News & Online Editor karen@wordvietnam.com

MARK ALLAN Website & Graphic Designer mark@wordvietnam.com

DAVID HARRIS Staff Photographer david@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Marketing vy@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

KAREN HEWELL Online Editor

I was only about 16 and with a school group in Victoria, Canada. They had this whale watching trip scheduled, so we all piled onto this rickety old boat and headed out. But the weather was awful that day, and we spent most of the time hiding inside the boat. Nearly everyone got seasick. It must have been something to see — 30 high schoolers puking into sick bags for three hours.

ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor

We’re paddling out to the river village in Koh Rong, Cambodia, and I chivalrously take the two-seat kayak. On the way back, the tide is against us and I no longer feel chivalrous.

Leaning forward for more leverage, I capsize, my friends already well ahead. After some abortive tries to get back in, I’m contemplating leaving the kayak — when a motorboat from the US$1,300 per night hotel appears and snaps me up, dropping me off at my $US6 a night bungalow in time for breakfast.

NICK ROSS Chief Editor

We’re on the boat to Koh Tao in Thailand. The waves are high, people are seasick, the main cabin is tense — there are too many people on the boat; is this safe? Suddenly a wave smashes into the bridge, the glass smashes and people start to scream. The captain makes a decision. We turn back to Koh Pha-Ngan. Over the next five days we are stuck there. The tides are so high — the highest in a century — that no-one can either come or leave.

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

ADVERTISING BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRINH BUI Sales Executive trinh@wordvietnam.com

DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com

CHAU GIANG Area Sales Manager Hanoi giang@wordvietnam.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.com

For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668 Special thanks to Eric Merlin, Carl Gay, Cimigo, Margaret Smith, Aimee Millwood, Seamus Butler, Matt Bender, Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Cristina Nualart, Katie Jacobs, David Legard, David Mann, Dara O Foghlu, Margaret Smith, Lys Bui, Tim Doling, Dr. Damien Cummins, International SOS Hanoi Clinic, Etienne Bossot, Brandon Ingram, Inra Jaka, Teresa Welleans, Julie Vola, Kathryn Cardenas, Huy Mai, The Victoria Group and InterContinental Sun Peninsula Danang

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In xong và nộp lưu chiểu Qúy 2 năm 2014.

The prelude Minh City as separate publications, we published related cover stories on river life.

Together with our then Hanoi photo editor, Aaron Joel Santos, I travelled down from Lao Cai on the Chinese border towards Hanoi, following the course of the Red River. Although Lao Cai had its fair share of boats, as the Red River cut through Yen Bai, one of the north’s largest towns, the lack of boats was striking. Whereas once this was a key conduit for trade between Hanoi and the north, now there was quite literally not one vessel taking

advantage of the water.

But things are starting to change, especially in the big cities where people have more disposable income. The waters of this country are starting to be utilised again — and not just by fishermen and traders, but also those who boat for pleasure. Hit the Saigon River and its various tributaries, and while there is little traffic, for the first time you see the speedboats.

Apartment complex after apartment complex is now offering commuter trips from the city outskirts to District 1. Head up to

Halong Bay and the number of boats on the water there is growing exponentially. And take to the Mekong. Not only is river life the heartbeat of the region, there are now so many cruises up its twisting course that you wonder where the passengers are going to come from.

We hope you enjoy our cover story on boats. Putting it together and writing about the history of boating was certainly a ride (excuse the pun). If you have any comments, please email me on editor@ wordvietnam.com. — Nick Ross

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

VIETNAM EDITION JUNE 2014

Life's a Bo at

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I

t started with a conversation before Tet. “You should really do something on boats,” said Carl, an engineer, co-owner of a speedboat and one of the people behind the swimming pool in Ho Tram built to teach young kids from poor families to swim.

“There’s so much starting to happen on Saigon River,” he continued, “and people are starting to see boats as an alternative way to travel.”

Carl’s words surprised me. At the beginning of 2012 when we still ran Word Ha Noi and Word Ho Chi

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Cover by DH Advertising Photo by Mads Monsen

HAVE YOUR SAY DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS? THEN LET US KNOW ON FACEBOOK — FACEBOOK.COM/WORD.VIETNAM — OR VIA TWITTER, @WORDVIETNAM. NO MATTER HOW POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE YOUR THOUGHTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.

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DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM — WE’RE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS. CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

VIETNAM EDITION MAY 2014

insider

The Music Issue (May, 2014) Excellent issue once again. I thought you really covered the music scene well. Like the graphics, too. — GR

PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO

Saigon from Above Imagine this city from a different perspective. Over the next few pages we showcase some of the images shot by Jan-Mathieu Donnier, showing us Saigon from above

The MUsic Issue

“Another solid, bumper issue.” — RR wordvietnam.com | May 2014 Word | 89

“It seems there is a music underground developing in Vietnam. Bodes well.” — MG

F

rom ground level we get one main perspective on what’s around us — that which is straight ahead, to the side or behind, all on the same plane. Yet ascend a few flights of stairs or take a lift up to the 50th floor, and our perspectives change. Below us stretches out a landscape that on the street we can only imagine. People become the size of pins, cars form into beetles and motorbikes start behaving like ants in a colony, zooming from one point to another, with little in-between.

It was with different perspectives in mind that we decided to work with Jan-Matthieu from GlobalVision. A Swiss citizen, born

and raised in Geneva, his company focuses on high-technology imaging systems to promote brands, products and facilities.

Using drone helicopters fitted with a Sony NEX7 camera replete with a 16mm, 2.8 lens, Jan films land and cityscapes from above.

The images he captures are sharp, steady and, thanks to cinematic-style stabilisation, very smooth. They show us the world from a different angle.

“Saigon is a very dense and rather flat city,” explains Jan. “Except from standing in a building, there is no natural way to look at the city from above. So the vision is always limited to a street corner. Shooting aerial images allow us to take a bird’s-eye

perspective of our subjects. It frees the viewer from all gravity constraints and offers sizzling views. It offers a new dimension.”

Aerial photography also allows Jan to document the changes in Saigon, the rise of new high-rises, the construction of new suburbs, the destruction of areas that were once green and are now a mass of concrete or rubble.

“Over the past four years I have witnessed a complete change to the city’s skyline,” he says. “I want to record images that will form part of this country’s visual history. A few years from now, you will be able to look at our aerial images as a record, a memory — the Saigon of the past.”

90 | Word May 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Online Video GlobalVision has created a short, one-minute video, Saigon from Above, that will be posted on the Word website — wordvietnam.com — in early May. Capturing a city that is constantly on the move, from dense and quite-insane roundabouts to quiet countryside districts, the video gives insight into the diverse nature of this city.

For more information on GlobalVision's flycam and Jan, go to globalvision.ch or facebook.com/asiaflycam

wordvietnam.com | May 2014 Word | 91

Saigon from Above (p88, May 2014) Beautiful images of Saigon. Can’t wait to see the video. Are drones allowed here? I thought there was a ban on flying helicopters through the centre of the city. — EF

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Errata

The Antique Market

Two contributors to our Vietnam’s Music Scene, In 25 Acts cover feature in the May 2014 issue were overlooked in the crediting — Matt Bender and Seamus Butler. Word would like to apologise for this error.

(p96, May 2014) “Never knew this place existed and I’ve lived in Hanoi for years” — JL “They raise prices for Tay there, you know.

I heard a couple of vendors discussing it in Vietnamese.” — BB

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the talk

Zen and the Leaky Faucet “We habitually erect a barrier called blame that keeps us from communicating genuinely with others, and we fortify it with our concepts of who's right and who's wrong. We do that with the people who are closest to us and we do it with political systems, with all kinds of things that we don't like about our associates or our society.

“It is a very common, ancient, well-perfected device for trying to feel better. Blame others... Blaming is a way to protect your heart, trying to protect what is soft and open and tender in yourself. Rather than own that pain, we scramble to find some comfortable ground.” — Pema Chödrön “When in doubt about who’s to blame, blame the English.” — Craig Ferguson

T

here’s a part in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance where a family’s constantly leaking faucet contributes to a tense atmosphere in the house.

Whenever something else goes wrong, a glass breaks or some other minor incident occurs, it’s almost too much. The house’s delicately maintained equilibrium is thrown out of balance, the concentration necessary to ignore the dripping faucet and go about their daily routine is threatened — and they lash out at this latest interruption. As the book’s writer, Robert M. Pirsig, puts it, “You always suppress momentary anger at something you deeply and permanently hate.”

This is the essence of blame — assigning responsibility for an event to one actor in a situation.

In complex things like real life situations, total designations like this almost never reflect the truth.

But slowly they become the only truth that matters.

A List of Facebook Expat Group Tropes — “I don’t want to be culturally insensitive or anything, but is it normal that [something culturally insensitive]?”

— “3, 2, 1, here we go again...”

— Something off-topic about McDonald’s — [A gif that says “If you don’t want a sarcastic answer, don’t ask a

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stupid question”] — “I don’t want to criticise [the subject], but...”

— “Actually, I want to criticise [the subject]!”

— “This might be an analogy you’ll understand [person commenter is arguing with]...”

— “Don’t mind [person commenter disagrees with], he’s just a troll” We’re all guilty of these freakouts.

Something doesn’t go our way, and we get angry. Anger is a powerful emotion, while sadness isn’t. It’s easy to be humble when we’re doing well, but a person’s true test comes when they’re not doing well. As Mike Tyson famously said, “Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the mouth.”

What I’ve Learned on the Roads of Vietnam This is my particular freakout, and it happens over and over again. I leave my house late, start driving a bit fast and encounter some sort of roadblock — a person not turning in the right turning lane, someone going slowly and not leaving enough passing space, a bus. I lay on my horn and silently smoulder with resentment. Eventually I get past the roadblock, crisis averted.

Except the crisis is something I continue to carry with me, like Pirsig’s leaky faucet.

One of my favourite things about Vietnam — something that

continues to astound me every rush hour — is the occasional victim of my anger. Traffic will be going slowly at a green light, and I will get to the bottleneck in time to see someone pushing along the cart they’ve worked at all day, someone walking alongside their out-of-gas bike. (Sometimes it will be someone parked in the street for a reason that isn’t as good, but whatever.)

And I’ll start to relax, and notice the calm faces of those around me.

That live-and-let-live attitude is what makes this country special, what has made it capable of undergoing great changes in the past century while still keeping its soul. As an American, it was a surprising thing to me when I first landed — and now it strikes me as Vietnam’s fountain of youth, its pipeline to continual possibility.

The Zen teacher Alan Watts gives this exercise: the next time someone bumps into you while walking, imagine instead that their shoulder was just a doorframe, one that you were clumsy enough to bump into. Forget whose fault it was. See how sore your shoulder is and ask yourself, “Can I carry on?” If you can, then go on your way.

It’s a profound thing to forgive grudges, and look forward to the future with clear eyes. An even more profound thing? Turning that leaky faucet off, and not picking up these grudges in the first place. — Ed Weinberg

the big five

1.

2.

HANOI SLAM CELEBRATES COURAGE

After a spectacular season of storytelling, Hanoi Slam is celebrating a successful year with their newest presentation of Hanoi’s most talented talkers, with Courage.

From the small feats to the magnificent accomplishments, Hanoi Slam’s storytellers will share their moments of courage in the face of adversity on Jun. 4 from 7.30pm, and vie for fantastic prizes. Along with a night of great stories, all proceeds from the night go towards Humanitarian Services for the Children of Vietnam.

Entrance for Hanoi Slam’s Courage is VND100,000, and goes directly to philanthropic purposes. For more information on the event as well as to become a speaker, email hanoistoryslam@gmail.com. Hanoi Slam starts at 7.30pm on Jun. 4 at Puku Café, 16 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

VOX POPS

The Saigon Players — a fixture on the local theatre scene — is getting ambitious this June, with a four-day arts event centred around performances of Henrik Ibsen’s dystopic drama, An Enemy of the People. In the play, a doctor discovers a deadly virus plaguing a newly-built health resort and announces his findings, much to the chagrin of the powers that be, who’ve staked a lot on this venture. When he won’t back down, he’s declared ‘an enemy of the people’.

In the bargain, attendees of the Vox Pops 3rd HCMC Visual & Performing Arts Festival will hear music and poetry, and see film screenings and dance performances from some of Saigon’s most talented creatives. Proceeds from the festival go to Helping Hand Saigon and Little Rose Shelter.

Vox Pops is taking place between Jun. 12 and Jun. 15 at McSorley’s, 4 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC. Tickets are VND300,000 per day, available at McSorley’s or saigonplayers.com

3.

FIVE YEARS OF CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

In honour of the Craig Thomas Gallery five-year anniversary, the gallery will hold a group exhibition of 12 Vietnamese artists on Jun. 19 — continuing the exhition through to Jul. 18. The work on display will include painting, sculpture and installation, and will feature artists from throughout the country, many of whom have had solo exhibitions in recent years at the gallery.

Craig Thomas Gallery started in 2009 with a mission to promote local and domestic art. In featuring young and midcareer artists from the whole country over the course of the past five years, they’ve added immensely to the rich scene we now have at our disposal.

Craig Thomas Gallery is at 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, HCMC. The Fifth Anniversary show will open June 19 and run through July 18. For more info, go to cthomasgallery.com

5.

COMEDY ASIA

4.

POGO A GO GO

Beachside bar Pogo has long held it down on the Mui Ne strip, but after seven years cold chillin’ they’ve decided it’s time for a refresh. The Relaunch party is kicking off summer with some free food and drink specials, and an all-night party courtesy of DJs Nic Ford, Dan Lo and Global B. Pogo Beach Bar and Grill is at 138 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne. The party's June 14 at 7pm, check out the latest developments at facebook.com/pogobeachbar

If you’re transfixed by the laughter of the last comedy show at Cargo Bar, then this little shindig might be right up your Saigon alley. Cargo, Apocalaughs Now and Stand-Up Saigon have got together to bring you comedians from the Asian comedy scene in a new, bi-monthly show called Comedy Asia.

Leading the line will be American comic William Childress who recently performed to great acclaim at Ha Ha Hanoi. Based in Myanmar (and formerly Hong Kong), he will perform together with Kuala Lumpurbased comic Brian Tan, who is famous for his one-liners, as well as three of the increasingly polished comedians from Stand-Up Saigon.

Comedy Asia will take place on Wednesday Jun. 18 at Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Entrance surcharge is VND180,000 and includes a free icy cold Magners Original Cider. Doors are at 8pm. For table bookings email saigoncomedynights@gmail.com

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 11

brief ings The War Marriage I met my husband when we were both 18 and in the army. We got married right in the trenches of Dien Bien Phu. It was wartime; we only needed our fellow soldiers, a few packs of cigarettes, some candy and a round of applause to call it a wedding. Everything else was considered a luxury.

I am 101 years old now. We stayed together until he died two years ago. We were thrown out of our house by our son, he even beat his own father. We lost everything we worked hard for.

We turned to begging on the streets and picking trash to survive and slept here at night. He passed away just one week after the coughing fits came. I always have his picture with me. No matter what I do, I can’t stop thinking about him. I miss him so much.

Humans of Hanoi

E

ver wondered what that fruit vendor or bent-up old lady on the street is thinking? The Facebook group, Humans of Hanoi, captures those fleeting moments. Modeled after the wildly successful Humans of New York, the photography project aims to depict Hanoians’ everyday life. 10 photographers

scavenge the city for ideas, following the doctrine that every individual has a story to tell. It’s been a hit: at the time we went to press, the group’s Facebook page had garnered nearly 27,000 likes.

Here are a few samples from their collection (edited for length):

The Twins Humans of Hanoi: So boys, what’s your favourite hobby?

The boys: Going to school!

Their adoptive mother: These guys are twin brothers. They suffer from memory deficiency caused by ADHD, one of them has a cleft lip. I enrolled the boys in primary school many times before, but it’s too difficult for them so they’re back in preschool now. Their biological parents gave them up because they couldn’t raise them.

They live in the countryside, at least I know the father still does. The mother left a long time ago…

Check out Humans of Hanoi at facebook. com/humansofhanoi and humansofhanoi. tumblr.com. Submissions can be sent via the Tumblr website

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The Mixed Couple Humans of Hanoi: What made you fall for the other?

Woman: He asked me out for a beer. He fell for me first.

Man: No, she fell for me first. She brought over medicine when I was sick.

Humans of Hanoi: And who lost their cool

first and dropped the ‘L’ word?

Man: Oh we Welsh never say it first. That’s a tradition.

Woman: Well, neither do the Vietnamese.

Our feelings are unspoken — we both knew it was meant to be without having to say anything.

brief ings

The Vegetable Matt Bender investigates better living through bitter melon. Photo by Kyle Phanroy

T

he bitter melon, or momordica charantia, has about as many names and uses as it does years of history riding behind it. For those of you into historical cultures — or with an om tattoo somewhere on your body — the bitter melon dates back to the Vedic (preHindu civilisation in the Indus valley) era and even has a Sanskrit name to show for it, karavella. In Vietnam it’s called khổ qua — no accent on the second word. This is pronounced similar to the word khổ quá — rising accent — meaning suffering.

To put a traveller’s twist on it, if you were to take a trip from Eastern China through India, Africa and on to The Caribbean you would see bitter melons being used in some way in every country. Not a lot of foodstuffs outside of salt can claim that kind of farflung popularity. While not significantly

Bitterness As the Spice of Life

NO ATTACHMENT

PEACE

HUMILITY

GAIN

LOSS

PRIDE

high in nutrients — except for vitamin C, of which the gourd boasts an impressive 40 percent of your daily recommended dose — bitter melon has long been known to have certain medicinal properties, especially in regards to circulation and getting rid of digestive parasites.

My favourite method of cooking it is to slice it very thin and stir-fry it in coconut oil with eggs, onions and tomatoes. The bitter melon acts as a base to hold all of the other flavors together with a nice, crunchy tang, but doesn’t overpower the other ingredients.

Even in canh khổ qua (bitter melon soup — no accent) the focus is on the spiced pork that gets stuffed inside the gourd, not on the gourd itself. This may explain why even though you can find bitter melons in markets from Nepal to Trinidad, no country’s signature dish is bitter melon-centric.

BITTERNESS ATTACHMENT

14 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com Mads’ choice

Symbolically, bitter melon stew is one of the specially prepared dishes for Tet, the Vietnamese New Year —the bitterness is representative of the poor living conditions the country has experienced in the past. On the positive side of symbolism, there is an international art collective known as the National Bitter Melon Council (NBMC) who claims that bitter melon is an intrinsically human food in the sense that all of the other animals in the world won’t eat it.

While I’m not 100 percent sure if this is true, I got in touch with a member of their Tokyo branch, Hiroko Kikuchi, who assured me that “bitterness is a sentiment/ taste that only humans can appreciate”, and “investigating bitterness can tell us more

Ed’s choice

about community, humanity, people and society”. He also confirmed that the NBMC is definitely “not a joke”.

The philosophy of the NBMC is to tie the nutritional benefits of eating bitter melon to the idea that bitterness and melancholy are inherent to what makes us human, which is possibly the most romantic sentiment I’ve ever heard of being attached to a vegetable.

It’s not hokey, though: it’s sweet, it’s cool and it kind of makes sense. Birds don’t eat bitter melon and birds don’t ever lie in bed, staring at the ceiling fan and thinking about all of the friends they’ve left elsewhere. We eat it and we do. I get it, man.

How to Know If Your Bitter Melon Is Right for You The ripening cycle of bitter melons goes from small and light green to bigger and dark green. The bigger and greener the more bitter they taste, and the skin gets a bit more tough so you want to go for ones that are light green and about the size of a hamster.

Bitter melons start to turn a bit Halloween orangey after that. So if you see streaks of yellow in your melon it means that, even if it’s still small, it is older and on its way to becoming unpalatable.

The warm, high-humidity climate of Vietnam is ideal for growing bitter melons, which have a long growing season — usually grown in the dry season but flexible enough for the rainy season, similar to supermarket staples like squash, cucumber and cantaloupe. Which means that anytime you’re in the mood for bitter melon, it’s usually just a shop visit away. — Matt Bender

brief ings

5, 6, 7, 8... Dance!

A huge dance show hits Saigon on Jun. 7 and Jun. 8

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his year, Dancenter’s dance spectacular is all about numbers — with 24 dance performances featuring 200 dancers and seven different styles.

As Thao Nguyen, general manager of Dancenter explains, the title of the show originates from what you hear in the dance studio. “‘One, two, three and four… five, six, seven and eight...’ Dancers not only hear music, they count music to time their movement,” she says. “So when you see a complete dance, almost every second of it (or every beat) needs to be decided on and put together — sort of like when you make a stop-motion animation.”

Promising to thrill audiences with 120 minutes of elegant jazz, graceful ballet, funky hip hop, energetic Zumba, charming belly dance and soulful contemporary performances, 5, 6, 7, 8! is one of three annual shows staged by the school. With over 800 students enrolled, the idea is to give as many of the school’s students as possible the chance to work on a complete, full-length dance show. Says Thao: “We are trying to instill in our students the idea that dance is an art form — all art forms need exposure and are made to be shared.”

A Labour of Love Yet, having run these shows for seven years, ironically the challenge of putting on such an extravaganza is not the immensity of working with over 200 performers of all ages, but as Thao says, finding a space “that can house 200 people backstage”. Beyond that, once the students are committed, then the task of working with

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such a large number of people is not so daunting.

“It’s truly a labour of love for all of us,” she says.

“A lot of our teenage students move on to studying performing arts after Dancenter — we are glad to be able to kickstart this interest and confidence in performing. For a lot of our adult dancers, dancing is something they have done as kids but only picked up again when they moved to Vietnam. Committing to a show like this not only helps them to improve technically, but also to learn what it is like to be part of a professional show.”

The show will have performances entitled The 7 Sins, 5 Senses, H2O, 911 and more, and will also feature a special appearance from Urban Dance Group, with top dancers from popular TV dance shows like So You Think You Can Dance, and Got To Dance. But most importantly, the extravaganza provides something new, something different for local audiences. “[The show is not] only highly entertaining, but very different from much of the dance [Vietnamese audiences] know,” explains Thao. “They will see dancers exploring their art in a show dedicated to dance, not just as back-up dancers for singers. And of course they will see a variety of more western styles that are not very popular in Vietnam such as jazz, tap or contemporary dance.”

Catch 5, 6, 7, 8! On Jun. 7 at 7.30pm and Jun. 8 at 3pm, at Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien, 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1. Tickets can be booked through reservations@dancentervn.com or by calling (08) 3519 4490

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brief ings

The Helicopter Making the inaccessible accessible

who had been in the country for over 17 years say that it was one of the best things she has done and that it was so wellorganised. She was able to see something she would otherwise never had the chance due to the difficult trekking involved.”

According to Luke, the trip quite literally brought “grown men to tears”.

The landscape of Quang Binh is already stunning from ground level. But see it from above, a different angle, and it puts into perspective not just the vastness of the national park but also its natural beauty.

Lines of Communication

Photo by Carla Henriques

One of the stumbling blocks to growing tourism in Phong Nha has been ‘how’ to do it. Past experience with mass tourism has led to other sites being damaged and even destroyed. Take Hon Chong near Ha Tien in the very south of Vietnam. Once labeled a mini version of Halong Bay, hawkers hassle tourists at both the entrance and in the secluded beach area inside, litter is strewn everywhere, and the stress of too much tourism has had the ultimate environmental impact — a few years ago one of the limestone rocks jutting out from the sea collapsed into the water.

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Photo by Carla Henriques

A

t the end of April a new site graced the skies over Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, the home to Son Doong, the world’s largest cave.

The helicopter transported 60 people to and from Hang En over three days, one of the most spectacular — and remotest — caves in the area.

“We organised a special helicopter trip to Hang En to mark the 410-year anniversary celebrations of Quang Binh,” says Luke Ford from Phong Nha-based travel agency, Oxalis. “It is not necessary to take a helicopter there, but it makes for an incredible experience.”

Flying low between the mountains and along the river valley to a specially constructed landing site, the 15-minute journey cost US$275 (VND5.8 million) for the overnight trip to Hang En (walk six hours to the cave on the way in and fly back on the way out) and US$170 (VND3.6 million) per person for the fly-in-fly-out day trip. Organised in partnership with Vietnam Helicopters (VNH), the helicopter was brought up from Danang to Dong Hoi, the major city in the area.

People were “blown away by the experience”, says Luke. “We had one expat

Naturally, there has been immense pressure to exploit the wealth of natural resources in Phong Nha. But lobbying from locally-based cavers and travel companies has had its effect — remote places are being kept remote. And roads are deliberately not being built. As Luke says of Hang En, the Cave of 100,000 Swallows, “Having a road would just open it up to mass tourism and we are trying our best to keep this a small scale adventure. Hang En is one of the most impressive natural sites in Vietnam and is still completely original. We want to keep it that way.”

With commercial flights due to commence in 2015, the helicopter also serves another purpose.

“It’s always on standby for medical evacuations for our Son Doong Cave Expedition,” explains Luke. “This was one of the main reasons we needed the helicopter stationed in Dong Hoi as a trial.

We want to show people that we run the best and safest adventures in Vietnam, and that includes helicopter rescue on standby for worst-case scenario.” — Nick Ross For more information on trips to Hang En and Son Doong go to either phong-nha-cave.com or oxalis.com.vn

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brief ings

The Nightclub

Photo by Nick Ross

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t’s a Friday night and the whole world seems to have congregated on a remote mountainside in the northern end of Danang. The reason? The opening of InterCon’s M Club, a nightclub designed by the renowned American interior designer, Bill Bensley. It’s being touted as the most exclusive and certainly the most visually engaging in Vietnam.

From Saigon there’s a crowd of celebrities, foodies and well-known partygoers, while Hanoi, Hong Kong and further afield are represented. The Danang posse are also in attendance — Nick from Waterfront and Red Bridge in Hoi An, Phil from GoPro and many more.

Yet after the overwhelming, sometimes bizarre monkey motifs are discussed — here they appear at every turn — at different points of the evening, the question arises. Where are the people going to come from? How are they going to fill the club’s many rooms?

M Club is 25km from downtown Danang. Prices are topend, and getting to the place requires a pre-planned, well thought-out journey.

One answer is Hong Kong. They’ll be staying in the InterCon and they’ll come from Hong Kong. Then someone else chimes in. Thanks to the recent events in Binh Duong, tourism has taken a hit. “The Chinese aren’t coming any more. The Crowne Plaza in Danang was running at 100 percent occupancy. Now it’s down to six.”

Monkey Be, Monkey Do Event and marketing manager of M Club, Dan Kings, acknowledges the difficulties they face. “No business can be guaranteed success,” he says. “Obviously there are many challenges, but aren’t there always?

“Your venue is too small, or too big, it’s too cheap or too expensive, the music is too loud or too quiet. You can’t please everyone all the time. However, from our perspective, we are willing to take a chance and do our best to make it work. There is a real lack of venues in Vietnam that cater for a more exclusive crowd, especially in Danang.”

And the more exclusive crowds they’re seeking want something they can’t get anywhere else. “We will need to offer something a bit different to the normal clubs,”

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Kings continues. “We will combine stage performances with more environmental type acts. Whether it is dancers, costume walkabouts, close-up magicians or something else, the entertainment will always be quirky and new, evolving with various themes and styles.”

That Kings recognises the challenges already bodes well — there is none of the build-it-and-they-will-come attitude so peculiar to businesses in Vietnam. And the venue is truly spectacular — we’re not just talking about the mountainside location on Son Tra Peninsula, otherwise known as Monkey Mountain thanks to the large population of macaques and douc langurs living on its many peaks. Kitsch yet tasteful, contemporary yet with a constant tribute to the past, this is a place to make your eyes goggle.

Interior designer Bill Bensley gives his own take on the club: Mai is a monkey and has a fine art collection of all of his friends in the local Danang forests. But they, like him, all wear fancy clothes. Mai is a bit of a fashionista.

He has hung his own portrait in the most important places and he has lots of girlfriends that love him as Mai is very handsome, a bit cheeky, and a real swinger. Mai went to school in Danang and excelled in interior design — that is why his pad looks so cool.

Mai, like all intelligent primates, loves bananas, and he keeps them everywhere for his guests to enjoy — usually fresh, and hanging from a rope from the ceiling. He has also managed to collect Southeast Asia’s largest collection of banana art and sculpture...

And so M Club was born.

The Long Goodbye As the audience thins out, a group of us head back into the resort to Room 102. Just off the beach and with its own private pool, the partying continues into the early hours of the tropical night.

I flew up to Danang for the opening. It was a long journey just for the pleasure of going to the club, but between the entertainment, the environment and the company, the experience made this onehelluva the trip.

Maybe, just maybe, it could all work. — Nick Ross

Photos by Christian Berg / Mott Visuals

Vietnam’s most exclusive nightclub opens its doors… in Danang

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brief ings

Hanoi in Colour

Leaving black and white in the past. Photos by Teresa Welleans

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hen looking around the sea of flailing arms and smiling faces donned in rainbow flags and neon clothing, you would be forgiven for assuming the venue were anywhere but Vietnam’s capital city. Yet, in a partnership between CAMA, the American Embassy and a collection of local grassroots LGBT organisations, ASEAN Pride became a reality in Hanoi’s American Club on a hot summer Saturday in May. It marked the second annual ASEAN Festival, swapping out last year’s Artwork is Work intellectual property theme for this year’s topic — diversity and acceptance. With bands like Stylish Nonsense (Thailand), The Pinholes (Singapore), Big Bag (Myanmar) and Recycle (Vietnam) taking the platform, alongside the rowdy mass that surrounded the festival’s main music stage was a tent housing six of Hanoi’s most

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active LGBT organisations, dubbed Diversityland. It was packed full with rainbow bracelets, necklaces and stickers, and flanked by young volunteers handing out literature on all things LGBT. The festival also brought in a new and audacious act to the 2014 stage — the High-Heeled Dance Troupe.

Dubbed the Ruby Fashion Show, the unlikely band of five male fashionistas donning six-inch stilettos rocked out to Beyonce and Lady Gaga to wild applause, and illustrated in perfect flamboyance the diversity and inclusion that the festival aimed to embrace.

Although next year’s ASEAN will shift from diversity to a new trending topic, the 2014 iteration marks a groundbreaking step forward for many of Hanoi’s fledgling social activist organisations. And, on May 24, Hanoi’s culture and sound was in full, glorious colour.

— Karen Hewell

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brief ings

Photo by Francis Xavier

Charity of the Month: Animal Rescue and Care

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n May 7, ARC put up an appeal on its Facebook page: “We desperately need donations if we are to continue the work we do!

Any support you can give us will help enormously!”

When they posted again later that night, it was to say that the crisis had been averted.

Called upon, the community responded strongly. Over the 24 hours that followed the initial post, more than VND40 million had been raised on their online fundraising page — gofundme.com/3l38w0.

The work that ARC and their patron vet, Bristol Veterinary School-educated Dr. Nguyen Van Nghia, do is one of the few protections cats and dogs have in Saigon.

They maintain a low-cost spay and neuter clinic, provide veterinary services for low-income pet owners, take in the hurt and abandoned animals that are brought their way — often being left on Dr. Nghia’s doorstep — and find pets in their care loving homes. It’s difficult, necessary work, and

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ARC has been doing it with aplomb since 2010.

The Long-Term Solution Increasingly, ARC is putting stock in education as a long-term solution to the plight of pets in Saigon.

“People’s intentions are usually good, without perhaps understanding the realities of the situation they’re walking into,” says ARC’s education coordinator Peter Cornish.

As an example, Peter describes a situation that ARC often finds itself dealing with.

“One of the problems we have is that a kitten will walk away from its litter, as kittens do, it will walk away and explore. Mom is over there doing something else, and somebody walks along and sees the kitten and assumes it’s abandoned. Often it’s not.

“And this is a real issue for us. We’re being brought very healthy kittens who should have been left probably where they were, and they would have grown up wild in the environment their parents grew up

in, and they would have lived a reasonable life.”

This educational approach is the thought behind ARC’s regular seminars on responsible pet ownership, targeted at school-aged children and conducted at schools around Saigon. They’re trying to latch onto a trend for humane education that’s catching on here — teaching basic human rights and responsibilities early on.

“What we seem to be seeing right now,” Peter says, “is young kids are telling their parents not to drive through red traffic lights, young kids are telling their parents ‘where’s your crash helmet?’ They’ve had it drilled into them at school — wear a crash helmet. Make sure your mum gives you one as well. Don’t drive through the traffic light. Don’t go the wrong way up the street. And kids are calling their parents out on this.

“And it’s happening to a certain extent with animals.”

On May 22, it happened at Canadian International School in District 7. Chambraud Melanie Dan Vy, representing the school’s Hand to Paw club, presented the ARC with over VND10 million raised by the club over the past year from bake sales and donations.

Hand to Paw has been very supportive of ARC in the past three years of its existence.

Peter says, “We would like to set up similar clubs in schools around the city, using Hand to Paw as a reference and as a model.”

In addition to their fundraising, Melanie and her two co-organisers drop in on classes and pass down the lessons Dr. Nghia imparted on that day — on responsible pet ownership.

Dr. Nghia talked about the animals that he cared for, and talked about the animals that he cares for, and the animals that he shouldn’t have to care for, because they’d have perfectly healthy lives left where they were found — like the kittens ARC keeps getting brought their way.

Most importantly he showed plenty of pictures, and brought a couple of very patient animals. It’s a process, getting to this world of happy and well-defended cats and dogs, and ARC is taking the slow steps necessary to make it happen.

What We Can Do There’s always the donation route — directly at gofundme.com/3l38w0. Or check out ARC’s web presence at arcpets.com, where you can find out more ways to help — such as volunteering at the ARC Centre, aka “Cat Ranch”, or fostering or adopting one of the 12 lovely cats they currently have on-hand (another 20 are in foster care).

And later this month, ARC is planning a “funkelicious fundraiser” — starring Zunk Bomb, Dat Phonk, The Love Below and Jazz Art. Sponsored by Word, it should be the most fun you can shake a cat at. Except don’t do that.

For up-to-the-minute information, check ARC’s Facebook page by searching ‘A.R.C. Vietnam’ or click on wordvietnam.com.

Photo by Teresa Welleans

brief ings

S

ome abandoned dogs and cats find homes easily. But the hundreds of animals that end up at Tram Cuu Ho Cho Meo Hanoi (Hanoi Pet Rescue) are often more difficult cases: the disabled, the blind, the elderly. Mic has been abused so badly that now he can’t use his legs and one of his shoulders is permanently broken; his back and hips have abscesses inhabited by hundreds of maggots.

“He’s staying in a vet clinic in Tay Ho, where we're trying to cure his back and hip. But for his leg, the Vietnamese doctors said there’s not much hope,” says Trang.

T

hanks initially to the work from Vietnam Vespa Adventures — and of course the Top Gear special with Clarkson et al parading old motorbikes the length and breadth of Vietnam — scooter tours are all the rage in Vietnam. And now a new, fuel-free, driveit-yourself tour is running out of Hoi An — a tour by electric scooter.

Set up by Marc de Swart and Yves Van Kerrebroeck, Vietnam Scooter Tours has a fleet of 15 electric bikes. Besides being eco-friendly, says Yves, they’re super-easy to drive.

“There are no gears to fiddle around with,” he explains. “They are really stable and comfortable, and we always have a short introduction and driving test at

Cat of the Month “We hope to move him to a shelter in another country.”

For all the sad cases, the shelter also sees its fair share of happy endings. Wellbehaved, perhaps due to his upbringing in a pagoda, Bum the puppy is pretty Instagram-worthy. But an accident made him unable to stand up or eat, so the monks wanted to get rid of him.

“An hour before we came, a monk asked somebody to give him a euthanasia shot,” Trang says. “So we rushed there and brought him to the emergency room.”

Now Bum can eat again and has regained

his energy, although he still can’t move his hind legs. He has moved to a new home in Hai Ba Trung.

If you want to adopt a furry critter like Bum, follow the group’s Facebook page facebook.com/tramcuuhochomeohanoi, which is regularly updated with photos of animals up for adoption. To adopt an animal, you have to agree to spay or neuter the animal, let the rescue team visit them from time to time, and bring them to their clinic when they get sick.

For more information email tramcuuhomeo@ gmail.com or call 0972 563231 / 0922 585701

the beginning of our tour where clients without any driving experience can try the bikes.”

He adds: “The bikes are all licensed and insured, and because they are electric the driver does not need a Vietnamese driver’s license. This also allows us to offer… complimentary insurance.”

drive through the green rice paddies and have absolutely no noise or exhaust fumes.”

Yves and Marc are trying to raise environmental awareness and promote sustainability through this unique method of transportation without noise or smoke pollution. They are also striving to be socially sustainable by teaming up with local partners to establish “a lasting improvement in the daily lives of the local communities in and around Hoi An. “We work closely together with Streets NGO and Lifestart Foundation, two NGOs that are doing a great job for the local Hoi An community.”

For more information go to scootertoursvietnam.com

Drive or be Driven Of course, not everyone needs to drive the bikes — there is a sit-on-the-back-seat option available as well. The tours run through paddies and traffic-free areas that people would not normally visit. Although the bikes can do a maximum of 45km/h, speeds are kept down to 15 or 20km/h.

Says Yves, “It is a unique experience to

Tour b yE The en vironm lectric S entally friendl cooter y way t o trave l

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Ho Chi minh city what s on

MELTING POT TURNS 5 Following on the traditions of art, dance and music that previous Melting Pots have filled their two days with, Melting Pot 5 will bring together a varied cast of artists selling their wares, musicians picking up the tempo and charities reaping the rewards. This time the good cause is Saigon Children's Charity, which will use the funds raised to help disadvantaged

Vietnamese children get an education, specifically in music and the arts. And the talent? Why, everybody who’s anybody in Saigon.

Melting Pot 5 will be all day on Jun. 7 and Jun. 8, at Saigon Outcast, 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. For up-to-date information, check the event on SGOC’s Facebook page, facebook. com/saigonoucast (sic)

CARAVELLE GETS MODERN For the first time in 15 years, the landmark Caravelle Hotel is undergoing property-wide renovations, which will up-end the front desk (temporarily moved to the third floor) and their soon-to-be-expanded lobby café. The first round of renovations should be through by the end of August, at which time Café de l’Opera patrons can toast the window-framed scene at their new champagne corner and tapas kitchen.

For more information, head to caravellehotel.com

DJ TONY TOBIAS Since first catching the bug back in the breakdance days of the 1980s, Toby Tobias has been a steady and consistent collector of many forms of music. DJing at afterhours clubs in London in the 1990s, he honed his sound and ear while amassing a small hillock of equipment. During the mid-2000s, his distinctive and unique productions played a major part in reviving interest in discoid and electrofunk-styled music amongst the partygoers of the UK and further afield... and in the 2010s he’s out here, playing a high-calibre set at The Observatory on Jun. 6. Supporting will be Elia and Hibiya Line.

Tony Tobias comes to The Observatory — cnr. of Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1 — Jun. 6, starting at 10pm. Tickets are VND100,000

THE PERFECT PHOTOGRAPH

SUMMER NIGHT JOY RIDE Now that biking has come into its own in Ho Chi Minh City, the enthusiasts at The Bike Shop figure maybe it’s time to take back the night! Gather with them on Jun. 20, and get ready to spread the joy of cycling to some less than receptive road-sharers. Don’t worry, you’ll end the night back at The Bike Shop, and all trespassers will eventually be forgiven, in

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buy-one-get-one apple cider fashion.

The 15km D2 JoyRide is on the night of Jun. 20, meeting at The Bike Shop (250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2) at 7pm. Bring a helmet, a bike with lights and a good attitude, and you too can spread the word!

NB: it’s strongly suggested that riders under the age of 12 do not participate, as this is a self-organised ride and everyone needs to be responsible for their own safety and well being

It’s not every day that a top photographer like Hai Dong gives free training at an international school. But Renaissance International School Saigon has pulled off the improbable, and this Saigon Times photojournalist turned fashion photographer will be sharing tips with the first 60 people to sign up on Jun. 5. Learn from a pro, and by the end of the day you’ll have graduated from Facebook selfie-taker to grizzled veteran.

Hai Dong will hold a free workshop at Renaissance International School Saigon — 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 — on Jun. 7, from 8am to noon. To attend, contact admissions@ renaissance.edu.vn, for a preview of Hai Dong’s work, go to haidongstudio.com

THE VND135 MILLION HAIRCUT! The American School of Vietnam (TAS) teamed up with Score Tech, Al Fresco’s,and Heartbeat Vietnam with the goal of raising VND105 million in a one-week fundraiser to save the lives of five children in desperate need of heart surgery. Heartbeat Vietnam identifies the most critical cases of children in Vietnam who need immediate heart surgery and provides them with lifesaving medical attention.

The fundraising week kicked off on May 19 with an all-school assembly complete with live music, videos and guest speakers. Students and teachers actively raised money through a variety of activities including donation envelopes, bake sales, art auctions,

pizza sales, T-shirt sales, carnivalstyle games and a variety of other fun events. The fundraiser concluded on May 26 with a celebration assembly after TAS not only met, but exceeded the goal by raising over VND135,000,000.

As a motivating factor, Coach Michael Barrs allowed the students to choose his new hair style if they could meet the goal. The new hairstyle — a mohawk with racing stripes — was created live on stage during the May 26 assembly, much to the school’s delight.

Said Michael: “The haircut is a funny reward to encourage our students to take ownership and enjoy the whole process while learning the value of altruism.”

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Ho Chi minh city what s on

Art Shows

oNiReaKHoWaRiGNoRaLiSMe

A SLICE OF NICE Partnering with disadvantaged youth-focused charity KOTO, the Park Hyatt Saigon held a soup kitchen to bring hearty nutritious chicken pho to the orphans at the Dieu Giac Pagoda in April. Hyatt contributed the same hotel-grade pho they give dinner guests, and KOTO sent them off with gift bags of daily necessities.

@ Galerie Quynh, 65 De Tham, Q1 Until Jul. 19 Truc-Anh is having his second solo exhibition at Galerie Quynh this month, and it should be every bit as enigmatic and dreamy as the first. Pronounced ‘oneiric’ and then a bunch of other sounds, the works contained draw on Truc-Anh’s dream world — a mash-up of Juergen Teller centerfolds and Hayao Miyazaki ghosts. Rich in overlapping tales and selfreferences, Truc-Anh’s paintings form their own narrative, one that questions reason and challenges his viewer’s knowledge.

Born Frenemies

FOOTBALL FOR A GOOD CAUSE The British Business Group Vietnam (BBGV) will hold the BBGV Inter-Company Football Tournament for Charity in HCMC on Jul. 19, bringing together 16 companies whose competitive instincts will be geared towards a common cause. Not only will this day bring together the best football talent Ho Chi Minh City’s business world has to offer, but it will also be day-long fun for families and supportive co-workers as well.

Companies can register with Tran at officemanager@bbgv.org or Claudia at claudia.lambie@bbgv.org on a first-come, first-served basis.

Diamond, gold and silver sponsorship packages are also available, for cash and in-kind donations.

For more information on July 19’s BBGV Inter-Company Football Tournament for Charity in HCMC, contact Tran at officemanager@bbgv. org or Claudia at claudia.lambie@bbgv.org. The festivities will run from 8.30am to 5.30pm

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@ Vin Gallery, 6 Le Van Mien, Q2 Until Jun. 14; opening reception June 6, 6pm to 8pm Kris Kotcher talks a good game, but once you get to know him he’s just a big softie. His work is in the street art vein, but he’s inspired by the children’s books and cartoons he loved as a kid.

Obviously, he’s also inspired by graffiti and other ‘lowbrow’ arts — the Hyde part of his imagery.

With these dueling influences, his street name Frenemy has become a perfect identifier, the perfect introduction to his world of cuddly monsters doing weird things.

Impressionism Meets Impressive Décor @ Austin Home Interiors, 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Jun. 5, 4.30pm to 7.30pm

The impressionist artist Quan Tho is gracing the newly opened District 2 showroom of Austin Home Interiors with his natural portraits and landscape paintings. In addition to the art on the walls, those who stop in will be entered into a raffle for some of the upholstered art objects that Austin Home deals in.

A Tale of Two Cities @ Au Parc, 23 Hanh Thuynh, Q1 Until Aug. 31, opening reception Jun. 5, 6.30pm to 9.30pm Following up on last year’s debut exhibition, Richie Fawcett has a new pen-andink collection, focusing on the roadside rhythms of Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi.

In wanders around both cities, Richie always keeps a sketchpad handy, sitting down on a curbside wherever he feels like it and sketches mesmerising snapshots of city life. Although not classically trained in drawing, Richie studied Egyptian Archaeology at the University in London before becoming an archaeological wreck diver, a freelance editorial photographer (shooting for lifestyle mags like FHM, GQ and Loaded) and a successful cocktail mixologist and bar consultant. The exhibition heads up to Hanoi’s Chula in January 2015.

THE MOST TITLED CREW IN THE DANCE BATTLE CIRCUIT The choreography of Pockemon Crew is a combination of two very different things: hip hop dance and 1930s silent movies.

Sometimes gentle, sometimes frenzied, the energy of hip-hop is linked with the narrative power of the silent film. In residence at the National Opera of Lyon since 2003, these guys are a special blend

TA LAI’S ADVENTUROUS SUMMER

DYING IS A WILD NIGHT

This summer, the team behind the Ta Lai Longhouse is teaming with pros like iKnow and L’Atelier to bring your kids some of the most adventurous, in-depth and educational experiences the jungles of Cat Tien National Park can provide. There are four adventure options to choose from in the summer school, ranging from four to seven days long and intended for kids age six to 11.

The options range from iPad-aided outdoorsiness to bear rescue centre visits, bamboo raft competitions to zip-lining, making creative rock climbing logbooks to participating in an arts and crafts camp.

Ta Lai Longhouse will keep your kids on your toes, and send them home with an experience they couldn’t have in 100 Ho Chi Minh City summers.

For more information on Ta Lai Longhouse Summer Camps, click on talai-adventure.vn

Gritty vocals. Finger-style blues guitar. Montréal-bred indie pop.

Haitian-Canadian folk.

If these varied elements seem like an intense combination, you’ll want to check out Mélissa Laveaux’s Jun. 28 show at Idecaf. Having opened for neo-soul types like Meshell Ndegeocello and indie folker Feist, she’s well-seasoned and on the cusp of something. Touring off her slicklyproduced album Dying is a Wild Night, Laveaux brings something to Saigon that we rarely get — the raw soul of another world.

Mélissa Laveaux performs at Idecaf — 28 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 — Jun. 28, 8pm.

Tickets are VND100,000, 50 percent off for students. For more info, email culturel@consulfrance-hcm.org

of scholarly finesse and street style — and they’re bringing their whirlwind to Saigon.

See Pockemon Crew’s Silence, We Turn! at Ben Thanh Theatre, 6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 — Jun. 12 at 8pm. Tickets range from VND90,000 to VND150,000, with 50 percent discounts for students. For more info, email culture1@ consulfrance-hcm.org

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Father’s Day: JunE 15

FUTURE NOW MUSIC FESTIVAL In the latest mega-festival to hit Saigon, 25,000 Facebook likers are going to pack out the Saigon Exhibition & Convention Center on Jun. 7 to catch EDM demigods Afrojack, Far East Movement and Thu Minh. Tickets have been selling briskly, and babes have been popping up on their Facebook feed with temporary tattoos in compromising places. Sounds like a recipe for a good dance party.

The Future Now Music Festival is happening Jun. 7 at the Saigon Exhibition & Convention Center, 799 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7. Tickets range from VND500,000 to VND1.5 million, and can be purchased at Circle K stores and ticketbox.vn/futurenow. For more info, go to facebook. com/futurenowmusicfestival

After Mom got a day, Dad got one too. Show them that he comes first this Father’s Day.

60-Minute Balinese Massage @ Kara Spa at the Caravelle Hotel caravellehotel.com Hard-working dads need Balinese massages, and Kara Spa knows that this Jun. 15 is a good day for dad to drop his tough guy act and give into relaxation. Help him out and spring for Kara’s Father’s Day promotion — VND1.35 million for a 60-minute Balinese massage and a 30-minute foot reflexology treatment — after he cleans up the garage.

The Best Brunch of the Year

MISS OCEAN VIETNAM 2014 Lots of beauty pageant contestants talk a good game about the environment, but the dreamboats at The Grand — Ho Tram Strip’s Miss Ocean Vietnam 2014 Gala are actually helping the coastal charity Blue Ocean World with their good looks, to the tune of VND220 million. At the gala, fashion and a VND1.6 billion jeweled crown helped raise awareness of the importance of Vietnam’s magnificent coastline and the ocean that lies off it. In the end, bombshell Le Thi Van Quynh went home with the honours, crowned ‘The Grand Beauty’ at a Zumba dance pool party.

See pictures of the May pageant on The Grand — Ho Tram Strip’s Facebook page at facebook.com/thegrandhotramstrip

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@ Market 39 at InterContinental Asiana icasianasaigon.com The team at Market 39 couldn’t decide what your dad would like — so they put it all on the menu. The lavish meal includes champagne, salmon, steak, lobster and a variety of sumptuous desserts.

Priced at VND1,599,000++, it includes a free flow of Veuve Clicquot, house wines, draught beer, cocktails and soft drinks. Or come later for the Veuve-less dinner, priced at VND1,098,000++.

New Zealand on the Menu @ Corso Steakhouse at the Norfolk Hotel norfolkhotel.com.vn At Corso all this month, you can get the finest foods of New Zealand, from seared pepper salmon salad and queen scallops caesar to signature main courses like New Zealand strip-loin steak, spicy lamb shank with wild mushroom risotto and sautéed jumbo tiger prawn with parmesan cheese and lobster brandy cream sauce. The kind folks at Corso know it’s easier to conquer homesickness on a full belly.

Champagne Sunday @ Saigon Café at Sheraton sheratonsaigon.com The pros: Saigon Café is stocking wok-fried seafood with asparagus in spicy sauce, grilled salmon with teriyaki sauce and sesame seed, crispy soft shell crab and prawn rolled with taro on this specialist of occasions. The cons: if you treat him like this one day he’s going to expect it all the time.

Oh what the heck, roll the dice — VND1,250,000++ for adults, including free flows of champagne, house wine, cocktails and draught beer, VND625,000++ for the four to 11-year-old class.

Photo by Ed Weinberg

PRIME MOVER Adrian O’Connell NEW PRINCIPAL AT THE PEARL The International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) keeps finding pearls in the educational world — and now they’ve found a shiny one. Lisa Johnson, with 23 years of experience in the US and international schools, and a speciality in the teaching of academically advanced children, is coming on as ISSP’s new principal, toting a slew of awards. She is passionate about establishing and fostering a learning environment that is studentcentred, collaborative and flexible — and is just the right person to take ISSP to the next level.

For more info about ISSP, head to issp.edu.vn

KIDS CHANGE THE WORLD Kids are our future... duh.

But there’s a certain brand of kid who knows this as well, and they took centre stage at Australian International School’s people-and-theirenvironment-focused Year 6 IB Exhibition, with insights into topics as far flung and necessary as the desalination of ocean water and sustainable cities. Along with all the idealism, they also demonstrated one way in which they refuse to change — inflicting a rendition of Katy Perry’s Roar on the ears of parents and peers alike.

Jameson Vietnam Brand Rep, Lead singer for James and the Van Der Beeks facebook.com/jamesandthevanderbeeks Despite having been in Vietnam for less than a year, Adrian has made a mark — organising cool events like the Jameson Jam at Saigon Outcast, fronting dance punk prodigies James and the Van Der Beeks and slapping Jameson logos up on event posters everywhere he goes.

Show I’m really excited about: It has to be The Melting

Pot out in Saigon Outcast, Jun. 7 and Jun. 8. Live music, dance and artisan stalls showcasing the variety of talent in this city, all in the name of charity. Good karma all round!

Best nights out last month: The Cairos at Cargo

Bar and Postiljonen at La Fenetre Soleil. It’s always good when international bands drop by! And when there are such great local acts like Space Panther, James and the Van Der Beeks and the Secret Asians to support, you know you’re in for a good show!

Best meal from last month: Bringing it back to

basics with some home cooking of late.

Funniest YouTube clip of the month: I don’t really

browse or stumble upon anything on YouTube. If I’m looking for some humour I usually go for Irish comedian Dylan Moran.

Stand-up comedy at its best.

CLASSICS OVER COCKTAILS Through Jun. 20, the French classical pianist and jazz singer Gabrielle Jeanselme will serenade guests in Sofitel’s Boudoir Lounge. Her chic swing will make picking up that second cosmo so much easier.

Catch Gabrielle Jeanselme at the Boudoir Lounge — in the Sofitel, 17 Le Duan, Q1 — Tuesday through Saturday, 8pm to 11.45pm

I wish this band would come to town: A Plastic

Rose, amazing Irish band and great friends of mine, two birds with one stone! If they’re busy, I would definitely be happy if Tom Waits dropped by.

How the scene is going in general? At this stage

it feels like the scene has surpassed the audience. There are so many wonderful passionate people involved in pushing the scene forward, and I would love to see more of a turnout to support these hard working class heroes.

The best secret in town is: The rules of the road. And

the Jameson Jam on Friday at Saigon Outcast never fails to surprise me with the talented musicians that turn up.

Where I go when I go out on my own: I used to love driving around on my scooter at night. If I’m going out on my own I’ll try to find somewhere I can embrace that.

Song I can’t get out of If my older-yet-still-cool my head: Shameless plug but I Mom came to town, I can’t get our (James and the Van would take her to: Der Beeks’) new song Window Creepers out of my head. It’s a working title — which will probably change multiple times just to make it difficult on us.

Some nice restaurants in town, followed by the phrase “this one’s on me”. Not that I need to flatter my Ma, eating out is just so affordable here.

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 31

Ho Chi minh city Just In MY LITTLE VIETNAM.COM After one year, the team behind mylittlevietnam.com is aiming to make orienting a snap, in five languages. In one convenient and easily-navigated website, consumer options, transit, basic info and bookings are all at hand, helping to make the at-times overwhelming process of travelling Vietnam a little easier to grasp.

Click on mylittlevietnam.com and start discovering the country

NEW RESTAURANT OF THE MONTH: BOOM BOOM BURGER With a new McDonald’s just opened, it’s easy to forget the little guys who’ve been supplying us with burgers this whole time.

Standout burger delivery service Boom Boom Burger — of the simple, no-nonsense menu and the comparisons to cult California burger chain In-N-Out Burger — have recently opened a Thao Dien headquarters, right down the street from Burger King.

The idea behind Boom Boom Burger came from Si Huynh, originally from California, who just wanted a good burger to eat in Ho Chi Minh City. With help from his chef friend, Shawn Pham, they used their favourite burger — In-N-Out — as a template. Like In-N-Out, they wanted to keep their menu simple, to focus on perfect burgers, sweet potato fries, jalapeno-infused beef patties and special avocado blends.

Unlike those other burger spots, they treat the form as art. They use freshly ground Australian meat for their patties, and bring in potatoes from Dalat almost daily. And that’s why it’s a shame to wait that extra 15 minutes of delivery time to bite into the tidy 75g morsels — freshness is their hallmark, and what sets them apart from the other slick logos down the block.

Boom Boom Burger’s new eat-in location is at 2 Thao Dien, Q2. As always, they deliver — visit boomboomburgers.wago.co or call 0909 532378

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THE FAN CLUB With the introduction of 12 quality screens and eight draught beers to the ground floor of District 2’s The Vista, being a fan in Ho Chi Minh City has gotten a bit more rewarding. The music is DJ-spun and the burgers are first-rate, and quiz nights and

barbecue days are scheduled monthly. What more do you need?

Check out Saigon’s newest sports bar, The Fan Club, on the ground floor of The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, Q2. For more info, check dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub

NEW BARBECUE GARDEN The Saigon dining staple with the teepees and delicious barbecue has now got a new iteration only 350m down the street. The new 1,200sqm Barbecue Garden and aircon indoor dining space is at 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, on the site formerly occupied by Bun Ta just across the road from Reunification Palace.

After seven years of serving up some of the

best barbecue Saigon has to offer, it’s about time Barbecue Garden let out their belt a little.

And for those who are interested, there’s now a Barbecue Garden in Kuala Lumpur and Manila. It’s good to see another local Vietnamese brand expanding overseas.

Visit the new Barbecue Garden at 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1

PENDOLASCO UPS THE ANTE Saigon’s longest running Italian restaurant has made some fairly noticeable changes in recent months. Not to the overall menu, look and feel of both the downtown space and the District 2 version of the original.

Indeed, Pendolasco Co and Pendo 2 remain as classic as ever. Instead, they’ve added a new, fortnightly changing gourmet menu full of contemporary dishes such as a modern Italian take on that most traditional of British dishes, the beef wellington (VND480,000), salmon and

scallops with black ink balsamic risotto (VND210,000) and roasted bacon-wrapped liver with caramelized onions, panseared scallops and a bisque reduction (VND210,000).

Other moves into the modern world include a unique delivery-by-Facebook system. Simply go to their Facebook page Pendo 2 (for Thao Dien) or Pendolasco 1 (for downtown) and click on the menu button. From here follow the instructions, click on the menu items and order your

delivery directly through their Facebook page. It’s fast, it’s efficient and it means you don’t need to go through a third party to arrange your delivery.

Additional improvements include iPad menus in three languages — English, Vietnamese and Japanese — and a wine cellar in both locations selling wine for restaurant consumption at near retail prices.

Pop into Pendolasco at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1 or 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 or check them out on Facebook

A SHORT RIDE IN THE JUNGLE Riding an ageing, pink Honda Cub dubbed The Pink Panther sourced and pimped by Digby and Glenn at Explore Indochina in Hoi An, Ants Bolingbroke-Kent rattled down the Ho Chi Minh Trail last year, taking pictures along the way. Bumping and clunking several thousand miles through Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia, she had some near misses with cluster bombs, early monsoon mud and overly-lascivious individuals, but lived to write a book about the tale.

With the A Short Ride in the Jungle: The Ho Chi Minh Trail by Motorcycle picking up accolades in the UK, it’s time we gave this tale of our past some attention.

For more info, click on theitinerant.co.uk or email dean@summersdale.com. The book is presently available as an e-book on amazon.com or in print from Asia Books in Thailand and other books shops in Malaysia and Singapore

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Ho Chi minh city Just In

MAISON SONG’S CRUISE CAPSULE

VERY NGON HOME-WEARS Now you can do more than just decorate your home with Very Ngon Homewares — you can also wear them.

Their new unisex kimono-style robe is comfortable enough for use around the house and fashionable enough to wear out of it — adorned with vintage French postcards and printed by hand.

In addition, their line has added classy drawstring bags and tea towels, adorned in the same classic style. Find their products at L’Usine, Sofitel’s Gourmand shop and Gingko Concept Store in Ho Chi Minh City, Tan My Design and L’Atelier in Hanoi — and soon, Collective in Hoi An. For more information on Very Ngon Homewares, check facebook.com/ veryngonhomewares

SAIGON’S REGGAE TEMPLE Saigon’s first reggae bar is stepping into the space left behind by Bo Nong Ethnic Cabaret on Nguyen Trai, just around the corner from The Observatory. Saigon Vibrations, is riding on the back of DJ Morgan Mugnier’s rasta riddims. The party people of Saigon like reggae so much that Vibrations has been packing them in even in the early going, with regular nights like Tropical Wednesdays and Underground Saturdays providing that dirty dub and Caribbean breeze, and a new Thursday-before-midnight shots-only ladies’ night comboing nicely with The Observatory’s Thursday joint Optimist Club.

Saigon Vibrations is at 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1.

Like them at facebook.com/saigon.vibrations

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SONG has cast aside its trademark bohemian-chic for the light and airy pastels of its new cruise capsule — a timeless collection that will fit whenever you’re somewhere hot, wind-swept and relaxing. For this capsule, most of the women and kid-centric clothes are loosely woven with gauze, delicate and lightweight, and in pleasing shades of pink, cream and orion blue.

Pick up SONG’s new offerings at their outlet at 63 Pasteur, Q1, or check them out online at maisonsong.com

JUST HOLD THE SNAKES Binh Thanh’s new Tegu Café is filling an underserved need in Ho Chi Minh City — giving us a place to have our cups of coffee with lizards on our laps and snakes around our necks.

Just order a ca phe sua da and the waitress will ask if you would like that with a lizard or a snake.

Yes, please!

The reptilian delights can be handled, cuddled, hugged and kissed, licked maybe, but definitely not eaten.

Tegu Café is at 125 Duong D1, Binh Thanh, and on facebook.com/tegu.coffee

LA FIANCÉE DU FACTEUR’S THIRD COLLECTION

THE BEAUTY OF DIEN BIEN PHU The only surviving artist soldier present for the famous battle of Dien Bien Phu, Colonel Pham Thanh Tam, has released a new book of 300-plus paintings, drawings and photographs drawn from his extraordinary experience 60 years ago.

Tam, who has gained international fame from his Thames & Hudson-published journal of Dien Bien Phu-era visual reportage, is regarded as one of the most important combat artists and frontline

reporters of his generation. This book depicts and narrates Tam’s eyewitness, firsthand experience of those 56 unforgettable days and nights of heroism, camaraderie and sacrifice on a legendary scale.

Colonel Pham Thanh Tam’s latest book, Dien Bien Phu, is available at the Dogma Collection Gallery Shop at 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1, and the Museum of Fine Arts and War Remnants Museum bookshops

La Fiancée du Facteur is a French-owned, Vietnam-based jewellery brand whose aim is to pay respect to all women throughout history in their designs. After sampling the heroic examples of Tristan’s doomed lover Iseult and Anna May Wong, the first internationally-recognised Chinese actress, who charmingly and fiercely battled the racist reactions her appearance provoked, they’re taking on the Nereids.

In Greek mythology, the Nereids are nymphs, goddesses of the sea. For the collection inspired by their whimsical and mesmerising beauty, a whole year was needed “to find the perfect camaïeux of purple which corresponds to the depth of the oceans”.

For more on this unique collection, check lafianceedufacteur.com

AUSTIN HOME INTERIORS The team at Austin Home has been a bit homesick, and they thought there might be some others out there feeling the same way. In opening their new District 2 showroom, they’re bringing the best of American classic and modern furnishings to the living rooms of Ho Chi Minh City, supplied by makers like John-Richard, Moore Councill, Emporium Home, Surya

and their own designers.

To kick things off, they’re organising a wine-accompanied art exhibition on Jun. 5 — so you can get a sense for the kind of parties you can expect in the relaxed environment Austin Home provides.

Austin Home Interiors’ new showroom is at 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2. For more information, visit austinhomeinteriors.com

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overscene ho chi minh

apocalaughs now

Photos by Kyle Phanroy Dwayne Perkins and Paul Myrehaug flew in from far-off climes to give the Saigon massive an injection of standup comedy

m club danang opening

Photos by Christian Berg and Mott Visuals The InterCon Danang keeps lining up the talent, and there was plenty on display at the premiere of Vietnam’s most exclusive nightclub

miss Ocean

Photos provided by The Grand Ho Tram Strip The Grand — Ho Tram Strip lured all of its beautiful mermaids out of the water for a pageant to end all pageants

"When I was young we had to tranquilise our cat Peppy when we travelled on aeroplanes.

There’s nothing quite as entertaining as a high cat" — overheard at Apocalaughs Now

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordhcmc.com and we'll take a look.

postiljonen

Photos by Francis Xavier The first gig of Everyone’s a DJ’s birthday month made us all feel five again, wondrous and wide-eyed in the presence of dream pop

the beek is peaked!

Photos by Ed Weinberg James and the Van Der Beeks (no relation) made their long-awaited debut at Cargo, opening for the Cairos with 20 minutes of blistering dance punk

Hcmc

june 2014 MELTING POT 5

T

astes LikeChicken.

Innocent Killaz.

Cowtown. Cat Pylon. 67’s. The Magic Pinions. The Love Below. DJ Morgan. Secret Asians. Jazz Band with Mariedel. Go, go, go.

POCKEMON CREW

W

hat happens when you combine hip-hop dance and silent film? We’re not sure yet, but evidently lots and lots of dance battle awards.

JUN. 7 + 8 — SAIGON OUTCAST

JUN. 12 — BEN THANH THEATRE

01 sunday

09 Monday

CHILDREN’S DAY. SPECIAL OFFER FOR CHILDREN. @ Market 39, Intercontinental Asiana Saigon See more celebration suggestions in What’s On

EARLY BIRD SPECIAL. Everyday from 6 to 9pm buy 1 drink get 1 @ Last Call

02 monday 03 tuesday

10 Tuesday FRENEMIES EXHIBITION BY KRIS KOTCHER. Until Jun. 14 @ VinGallery.

See What’s On

11 Wednesday HAPPY HOUR. Tue. To Fri. from 6pm to 8pm, 50k for all cocktails and mixers @ Saigon Outcast

04 wednesday

12 Thursday

05 thursday

VOX POPS BY THE SAIGON PLAYERS. From Jun. 12 to 15 @ McSorley’s.

See Big 5 POCKEMON CREW’S SILENCE, WE TURN! 8pm @ Ben Thanh Theatre.

See What’s On

MEET THE ARTIST RECEPTION. 4.30pm Meetup and exhibiting Quan Tho paintings @ Austin Home Interiors. See austinhomeinteriors.com for info LITTLE TALKS – LIVE BAND. 9.30pm @ Last Call

13 Friday

06 friday SPIRIT OF HOUSE WITH DJ VALENTIN. 10pm @ Last Call DJ TONY TOBIAS. 10pm @ The Observatory. See What’s On

07 saturday MELTING POT 5: MUSIC AND ART FESTIVAL. 2pm @ Saigon Outcast FUTURE NOW MUSIC FESTIVAL. @ Saigon Exhibition & Convention Center. See What’s On HAI DONG’S PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP. From 8am to noon @ Renaissance International School. See What’s On 5, 6, 7, 8! 7.30pm, Dancenter full-length dance show @ Youth Culture House. See What’s On

OPENING GAME OF THE WORLD CUP : BRAZIL VS. CROATIA. 3am

14 Saturday 90’S HIP HOP R’NB WITH DJ VALENTIN. 10pm @ Last Call WORLD CUP: SPAIN VS. NETHERLANDS. 2am

08 sunday

15 Sunday

MELTING POT 5: MUSIC AND ART FESTIVAL. 2pm @ Saigon Outcast 5, 6, 7, 8! 3pm, Dancenter full-length dance show @ Youth Culture House. See What’s On

FATHER’S DAY. See celebration suggestions in What’s On ROCK PAPER SCISSORS TOURNAMENT. 3pm @ Saigon Outcast WORLD CUP: ENGLAND VS. ITALY. 5am

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To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Jun. 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

D2 JOYRIDE

B

efore you head into the weekend, take a spin with Saigon’s joyriders over a 15km stretch of District 2 — then segue into the weekend’s unhealthy part over a postride cider.

MELISSA LAVEAUX

I

decaf continues to subsidise our art appetites with talents such as this unique indie folker with the fingerstyle blues guitar.

JUN. 28 — IDECAF

JUN. 20 — THE BIKE SHOP

16 Monday

23 Monday

WORLD CUP: GERMANY VS. PORTUGAL. 11pm

WORLD CUP: USA VS. PORTUGAL. 5am

17 Tuesday

24 Tuesday

TRUC-ANH SOLO EXHIBITION: oNiReaKHoWaRiGNoRaLiSMe. Until Jul. 19 @ Galerie Quynh. See What’s On

DOUBLE TROUBLE. Every Tue. Buy 1 drink get 1 free all night long @ Last Call

18 Wednesday

25 Wednesday

WORLD CUP : SPAIN VS. CHILE. 11pm

A TALE OF TWO CITIES BY RICHIE FAWCETT. Until Aug. 31 @ Au Parc.

See What’s On

19 Thursday

26 Thursday LIVE JAZZ. 8pm every Thu. @ La Fenetre Soleil

27 Friday SPIRIT OF HOUSE WITH DJ VALENTIN. 10pm @ Last Call

28 saturday NIC FORD – PLANET’S SUITE. 10pm @ Last Call MÉLISSA LAVEAUX PERFORMS AT IDECAF. 8pm @ IDECAF CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY’S FIFTH ANNIVERSARY GROUP EXHIBITION. Until Jul. 18 @ Craig Thomas Gallery. See Big 5 LADIES PROMOTION. Every Thu. from 6 to 9pm, Ladies in groups of 3 get a complimentary cocktail @ Last Call

29 sunday

20 Friday SUMMER NIGHT JOYRIDE. 7pm @ The Bike Shop. See What’s On FRIDAY JAMESON JAM NIGHT. 8pm every Fri. @ Saigon Outcast

21 Saturday

29 sunday

WORLD CUP: SWITZERLAND VS. FRANCE. 2am GABRIELLE JEANSELME JAZZ SINGER. From Tue. To Sat. at Boudoir Lounge, Sofitel Saigon. See What’s On

SUNDAY-SIDE-UP. Sunday BBQ and music 3pm every Sun. @ Saigon Outcast

22 Sunday

30 monday

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 39

hanoi what s on

ARTSY SUMMER BREAK Help your kids get in touch with their artistic sides over the summer break, with Work Room Four’s summer courses beginning on Monday, Jul. 14 and continuing through to Aug. 1. By working with other students on collaborative art projects throughout the course, students will experiment with different techniques and mediums and have a final masterpiece to show for their hard work.

Work Room Four is located in the Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho. The Summer Art School courses run from Jul. 14 until Aug. 1 from 9am to 3.30pm. Visit workroomfour.com for more details

AMAZING PHOTOS, AMAZING DESTINATIONS From a collaboration between Travellive Magazine and the Department of Tourism for The Philippines in Vietnam comes great things. After a successful debut photo tour to Korea and Malaysia, the Amazing Photo Tour is back for its newest journey, to Manila and Cebu in The Philippines. Armed with cameras and plane tickets courtesy of Cebu Pacific Airlines, a team of journalists and photographers captured the island country

at the end of May. Beginning on Jun. 28 at InterContinental Hanoi Westlake, their most inspiring works will be on display in an exclusive photo exhibition, with free entrance to the public.

Amazing Photo Journey’s photo exhibition takes place from Jun. 28 to Jul. 13 at InterContinental Hanoi Westlake, Ngo 1 Au Co, Tay Ho. For more information, visit amazingphototour.vn

SUMMER ARTS Manzi Art Space is going international for the month of June, and hosting some of Asia’s most talented artists to showcase their work. The month is kicking off on Jun. 3 from 10am with Japanese artist Miya, whose oil paintings and Karensansui Garden-inspired installation made of salt pushes boundaries hardly touched by her contemporaries. Then, on Jun. 6, Manzi is swapping gears to the silver screen in collaboration with TPD with a series of experimental short films by Vietnamese filmmakers. The series entitled Chieu Bong brings art and cinematic wonder together in one space.

Then on Jun. 13 at 6.30pm, sculptor Thai Nhat Minh takes the stage solo for the first time at Manzi with Breeding Season, a site-specific exhibition that explores the relationship between sculpture and space.

Manzi Art Space is located at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh. Get more information on all of Manzi’s upcoming art shows by visiting facebook.com/manzi-art-space

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SOULFUL SOPHISTICATION Montreal native singer-songwriter Melissa Laveaux began as a folk artist, with soulful lyrics and a sensual voice that touched on deeply personal topics of love and lost.

Now, having grown into more powerful pop-rock influences, she maintains her soulful songwriting with orchestral rhythms and synthetic sounds. She comes to the L’Espace stage to showcase her sultry song stylings on Jun. 24.

Melissa Laveaux comes to L’Espace Auditorium on Jun. 24 from 8pm. Tickets are available for VND120,000, with discounts for L’Espace members. Buy tickets at L’Espace at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

GET CULTURED WITH THE CLASSICS French classical quarter Quatuor Parisii comes to L’Espace on Jun. 7 from 8pm, bringing along with them some of the most celebrated classical compositions and stylings in Francophone music. With their contemporary twists on Beethoven, Boulez, Milhaud and Campo, Quatuor Parisii blurs the boundaries between modern music and the classical greats of the past.

Quatuor Parisii comes to L’Espace Auditorium on Jun. 7 from 8pm. Tickets are VND120,000, and VND60,000 for L’Espace members. Buy your tickets at L’Espace at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

Photo by Diego Chula

PRIME MOVER John Sylvan Owner of The Hanoi Social Club facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub

HAPPY (EARLY) BIRTHDAY, AMERICA! The patriots at the American Chamber of Commerce are donning their party hats early in celebration of next month’s Independence Day. On Jun. 8 at The American Club, everything will be red, white and blue for the Independence Day picnic and party.

Packed with family-friendly fun — including live music, circus performances and lots of fun activities for kids — the picnic marks the 20th annual festivity hosted by AmCham. Tickets are VND250,000 for adults and VND150,000 for kids. Buy your tickets before Jun. 4 for the best prices.

Tickets for the AmCham 20th annual Independence Day Picnic at The American Club, 21 Hai Ba Trung, are on sale at AmCham now. Call (04) 3934 2790 for purchases. The picnic starts at 6pm on Sunday, Jun. 8

John Sylvan came to Vietnam on a posting for Engineers Without Borders 5 years ago. A selfish desire for poached eggs on sourdough rye led him to create The Hanoi Social Club in 2011. Part cafe, part intimate music venue, The Hanoi Social Club has hosted over 30 music acts from all over the world.

Event I’m really excited Song I can’t get out of about: The upcoming Songs my head: Tree by the River

of Bob Dylan night at The Hanoi Social Club on Jun. 13.

Ahh, that twanging guitar...

Best night out last month: Catching up with Best meal from last month: I discovered a new thing called bo bia ngot — a roll of shredded coconut, black sesame and malted sugar. So simple, yet so delicious! (Yes, it's on the menu at the Social Club now!)

comedian Stewart Lee deftly mocking sexist conservatives.

How is the Hanoi restaurant scene going? Healthy ingredients

like chia seeds, hibiscus and quinoa are readily available in Hanoi, yet no international restaurants seem to be taking advantage of these interesting foods.

The best secret in town is: The improvised

showing a really nice community street scene near my house in Truc Bach (121 likes).

Funniest YouTube clip of the month: Stand-up

I wish this band would come to town: Laura Marling.

old friends for dinner at funky Ray Quan.

Thing I posted on Facebook that got the most likes: A photo

by Iron and Wine. Nature, love, reminiscence sounds.

community-jam music sessions in the garden at the Social Club.

Where I go when I go out on my own: A bicycle ride around West Lake.

If my older-yet-stillcool mum came to town, I would take her to: Watch local folk music goddess Le Cat Trong Ly.

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 41

hanoi what s on COSMIC BALLET On Jun. 21 at the Youth Theatre, a darkened auditorium will be lit by nothing more than two dancers and a stunning show of light and movement, with Notte. Highlighting the tug and pull between a male and female dancer, the hypnotic cosmic ballet is blanketed with constellations, swirling galaxies and twinkling stars in one of Hanoi’s most captivating and beautiful visual feasts.

Notte will show at the Youth Theatre, 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung on Jun. 21 from 8pm.

Tickets on sale for VND120,000 can be purchased at L’Espace at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

BLAST(S) FROM THE PAST Madake doesn’t mind the summer heat, and their social calendar for the month of June isn’t lacking just because of a little sweat. And, they’re cooling things off with not one, but two musical journeys into the past, starting on Jun. 14 with classic anthems from the golden age of hip hop.

Then, on Jun. 21, the oldies but goodies are on centre stage, with the best of funk and soul throughout the night and plenty of deals on summer cocktails.

Madake is located at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

UNLIKELY PAIRINGS Pockemon Crew was born from an unlikely pairing of influences — hip hop dance and silent film. Drawing on the physicality and expressiveness of both performance forms, Pockemon Crew balances their choreography between the sometimes frenzied, sometimes gentle energy of hiphop but within a nostalgic setting of 1930s

silver screens. Now, they come to the Hanoi stage at the Youth Theatre on Jun. 14 from 8pm, courtesy of L’Espace.

Pockemon Crew comes to the Youth Theatre, 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung, on Jun. 14 from 8pm. Tickets are available at L’Espace at 24 Trang Tien for VND120,000, with discounts available for L’Espace members

MADAKE IN MOTION Rounding out the month at Madake is MoTioN on Jun. 28 with artist and scenographer Bad GraFX. Already a performance art veteran who’s graced the Tay Ho watering hole’s stage, this time around he’ll bring his same stage

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antics to life with direct interaction between movement and music. DJs Pandrava, Maggie and Fergal will be spinning UK and Berlin techno just for the occasion.

Madake is located at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

ART SPEAKS Manzi Art Space wants to get you talking, and has all the right ways to do it this month. Throughout June, some of Hanoi’s most influential thinkers, artists and creatives take the Manzi stage in the art space’s series of continuing art talks.

On Jun. 10, Queer Forever! and the Manzi team up to bring two speakers, film critic Nguyen Tan Hoang and artist Dredge Byung’Chu Kang, to talk about both the romantic comedy De Mai Tinh (Fool for Love) and Vietnam’s growing obsession with K-pop dance.

On Jun. 20, The Book Talks return with a talk on fantasy literature, and is co-organized by Manzi and Nha Nam Publishing House.

Finally, on Jun. 26, the Vietnameselanguage talk show with Giang Dang takes on controversial current issues in Right or Wrong? The multi-dimensional talk show and entertainment hour challenges deeply held values, opinions and belief with a little bit of fun thrown in. Pre-registration is recommended by emailing manzihanoi@ gmail.com.

Manzi Art Space is located at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh

PUPPET SHOWS FOR GROWN UPS Puppets aren’t just for Sesame Street any more, and The Remouleurs Company is here to prove it. On Jun. 28, the previously Bangkokbased performance troupe plays with light, puppetry and imagination on the L’Espace stage in a new collaboration with a traditional Thai puppet team from Chiang Mai. Nest, Cage, Nowhere to Rest is an imaginative story of a bird that is sent on a journey after his nest is

destroyed. Accompanied by a small orchestra, the show features not only shadow play and puppets, but also magic lanterns, lights and other effects.

Nest, Cage, Nowhere to Rest comes to L’Espace Auditorium on Jun. 28 from 8pm. Tickets are available now for VND120,000 at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, with discounts available for L’Espace members

hanoi Just In

PREMIER VILLAGE DANANG Managed by Accor, Premier Village Danang Resort has opened its doors on the pristine and secluded My Khe Beach in Danang. Overlooking the ocean, the upscale resort features 111 contemporary villas and offers a cosy ambience, perfect for couples or families looking for an exclusive retreat to relax and unwind.

The resort is comprised of ultra-modern, one-bedroom to four-bedrooms villas, designed in earth tone colours. Each villa is created with comfort and sophistication in mind, offering large bedrooms, a private swimming pool, views of either

the secluded lush garden or the scenic ocean, and a fully kitted out kitchen with microwave and oven. The rooms are also equipped with flat-screen TVs, upscale room amenities, coffee/tea facilities and free Wi-Fi internet access.

Four restaurants and bars are available for guests who would prefer not to dine in the comfort of their villas, and the property also boasts a gym, a 30-metre swimming pool and a private beach.

For more information about Premier Village Danang Resort, go to accorhotels.com/9530 or facebook.com/PremierVillageDanangResort

HAM HANH

MOJITO BAR & LOUNGE Located just off Phung Hung, Mojito Bar is the work of well-known former Angelina bartender, Pham Tien Tiep.

With Asian-style floor cushion seating, bare brick walls, wooden paneling, a long bar area and an indoor jungle growing out of the walls, the décor is in line with a growing quorum of new venues opening in the capital — contemporary, eye-catching and unique.

And of course the cocktails here are also top-notch. Tiep was Vietnam’s champion bartender a couple of years ago and even competed in the world finals in Brazil.

Mojito Bar is at 19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem or on Facebook at facebook.com/ mojito.bar.lounge

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BETTERWORLD RELOCATES Formerly on Ly Quoc Su (and not to be confused with Betterday), the handicrafts and jewellery-from-around-the-world store Betterworld has relocated to Xuan Dieu. Most items on sale are either fair trade or bought directly from the artisans that made them, and include anything from a Mongolian camel wool scarf through to a Madagascan zebu horn necklace and bracelets from Cambodia made from recycled ordnance. The shop also carries natural soap from Vietnam, greetings cards, a selection of used books and a large collection of DVDs. Five percent of all profits go to MAG to aid UXO removal in Vietnam.

Better World is at 8 Xuan Dieu,Tay Ho and is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 7pm.

Photos by Teresa Welleans

Photos by David Harris

Photo by David Harris

Translate ‘onion cellar’ into Vietnamese and you get the words ham hanh, the name of this arts, film and music collective’s newly opened café. Launched in early May, after over two years of putting on uncompromising events in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, the people behind this collective can finally answer the questions: “What is The Onion Cellar? Where do I go to find you?”

The Onion Cellar can finally be found in a dimension of time and space at 170 Doi Can, Dong Da, with a number of different café settings allowing guests to do anything from socialise over a Tom Waits-inspired cocktail to taking a nap drifting in and out to the sounds of field recordings, or chilling in the pleasant fountained garden at the height of summer.

WORKROOM FOUR REOPENS If you’ve been living under a rock then you probably won’t know that Workroom Four, the arts collective, has reopened on Au Co in the West Lake area.

Founded nearly a year ago at the recently defunct Zone 9, as well as renting out studio space, Workroom Four runs arts and craft classes, hosts events and provides a new gallery space to showcase exhibitions. Their new location overlooks the city from the vantage point of a 24th-floor space in the Packexim Building.

For more information go to workroomfour.com or head to Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho, Hanoi. To see a feature on Workroom Four, turn to page 106

Once reserved exclusively for royalty, tranquil Westlake now boasts Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences.

Minutes from the city with unobstructed lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers you the award-winning service even ancient kings would envy.

Photos by David Harris

THE FRASER COLLECTION

+84 BAR From the people behind Barbetta comes the new bar, +84.

Located in the same colonial-era building that once housed The Bui Gallery, as with its Barbetta sister venues, +84 is all about bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past, possibly more glamourous era in Vietnam. At this new, visually endearing space, though, there’s also a new focus — film, and in particular The Godfather. There’s also an obsession with Old and New World wines, a departure from the more beer and cocktail obsession associated with Barbetta. +84 Bar is at 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem or online at facebook.com/ bar84hanoi

BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST • CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW • GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR • LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI • OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI • SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN • WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) • FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014)

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 45

overscene hANOI

vietnam fashion week

Photos by Xavier Depouilly TV station VTV3 hosted a smorgasbord of Vietnamese fashion last month, with a range of designers sending their clothing onto the catwalk. These images are of the new line at L’Atelier

asean pride

Photos by Teresa Wealleans CAMA has a history of breaking boundaries — and this is one that was certainly broken with 4,000 or so people flocking to the American Club in search of great music from Southeast Asia and a theme promoting diversity.

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Montes Wine Dinner

Photos provided by Bluebird Montes, that darling of Chilean wines, got itself its own wine dinner last month at Bluebird. Even the Chilean Ambassador was in attendance to toast a winery that a decade ago quite literally changed wine-drinking habits in the capital.

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordhanoi.com and we'll take a look.

M Club

Photos by Mott Visuals Danang saw the launch of one of the most exclusive nightclubs in the country last month, at the already well-endowed InterContinental on Son Tra Peninsula.

Celebrities aplenty turned up for a celebration of exclusivity and some of the kitchest yet most-eyecatching monkey motif design in the country.

In the Garden

Photos by David Harris Live music is coming on in force in the Tay Ho area, with 88 Lounge recently launching regular performances with the likes of local songstress, Huong Tra

hanoi

june 2014

AMCHAM INDEPENDENCE DAY PICNIC

B

rush up on your Star Spangled Banner and dig out your red, white and blue threads. It’s America’s early birthday party

POCKEMON CREW

H

ip-hop and silent film aren’t usually two things you find in the same sentence, much less on the same stage.

Pockemon Crew is here to change that

JUN. 14 — L’ESPACE

JUN. 8 — AMERICAN CLUB

01 sunday

09 Monday 10 Tuesday VIET KIEU INTIMACY & K-POP COVERS. with Nguyen Tan Hoang and Dredge Byung Chu Kang @ Manzi, 6pm

11 Wednesday MAGNIFIQUE INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S DAY. @ Sofitel Plaza, 6.30pm

12 Thursday

02 monday OPERA PERFORMANCE OF ‘CARMEN’. @ Hanoi Opera House, 8pm. Runs for two nights

03 tuesday VOYAGE — A MINI SHOW BY JAPANESE ARTIST, MIYA. @ Manzi, 10am.

Runs until May 5

04 wednesday HANOI SLAM. @ Puku Café and Sports bar, 7.30pm

05 thursday

13 Friday OPENING GAME OF THE WORLD CUP : BRAZIL VS. CROATIA. 3am SCREENING OF LABATEILLE DE SOLFERINO. @ L’Espace, 8pm

14 Saturday WORLD CUP: SPAIN VS. NETHERLANDS. 2am HIP-HOP PERFORMANCE WITH THE POCKEMON CREW. @ Youth Theatre GET YOUR 90S OUTFIT! @ Madake, 9.30pm until late

15 15 Sunday Sunday

THEATRE PERFORMANCE — MADEMOISELLE BONJOUR. @ L’Espace, 8pm

06 friday THE SCREENING OF MOBILE HOME. @ L’Espace, 8pm

07 saturday TCHAIKOVSKY CONCERT. @ The Hanoi Opera House, 8pm CLASSICAL MUSIC. @ L’Espace, 8pm

08 sunday THE 20TH ANNUAL U.S. INDEPENDENCE DAY PICNIC IN HANOI. @ The American Club, 4pm

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WORLD CUP: ENGLAND VS. ITALY. 5am FATHER’S DAY @ Marriott & Melia Hotels

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhanoi.com by no later than Jun. 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

BOOK TALK MOTION

M

anzi Art Space is out to prove that talking about books isn’t just for school kids.

To keep things interesting, this month’s topic: fantasy

A

rtist and scenographer Bad GraFX is back with another round of techno and stage antics, all in the name of performance art

JUN. 20 — MANZI ART SPACE

16 Monday

JUN. 28 — MADAKE

23 Monday WORLD CUP: USA VS. PORTUGAL. 5am

24 Tuesday 25 Wednesday 26 Thursday WORLD CUP: GERMANY VS. PORTUGAL. 11pm

17 Tuesday 18 Wednesday WORLD CUP : SPAIN VS. CHILE. 11pm

19 Thursday 20 Friday THE BOOK TALKS. @ Manzi, 7.30pm

21 21Saturday saturday

WORLD CUP: SWITZERLAND VS. FRANCE. 2am NEW MAGIC. @ Youth Theatre, 8pm OLDIES, FUNK & SOUL MUSIC NIGHT. @ Madake, 9pm until late BALLET: NOTTE. @ L’Espace, 8pm

22 Sunday

POP-ROCK SINGER MÉLISSA LAVEAUX. @ L’Espace, 8pm

27 Friday 28 saturday saturday 28

PUPPET THEATRE WITH THE RÉMOULEURS CO. @ L’Espace, 8pm MOTION. @ Madake, 10pm until late

29 sunday 30 monday wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 49

Insider

ROAD RUNNER // OFF THE MAIN DRAG // LIFE’S A BOAT // THE WORLD CUP SPECIAL // A DECADE ON THE SCENE // THE NEW WORKROOM FOUR // NHA XA // H2H: MEASURING THE GAINS // MYSTERY DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // STREET SNACKER PHAN RANG // WAITING FOR THEIR SHIP // CLIMBING BLACK VIRGIN MOUNTAIN // WHEN IN SRI LANKA...

PROVIDED BY ERIC MERLIN / EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES

Without whom...

The majority of the old black and white photos in this issue were provided by Eric Merlin. Used to illustrate the recently published book, The Jewels of Halong Bay, the collection was started when Eric discovered some old postcards of the paddle steamer, The Emeraude, in the St. Ouen flea market in Paris.

Sailing tourists around Halong Bay in the early 20th century, The Emeraude was one of an initial fleet of four boats owned and operated by the Roque family. The discovery of these postcards inspired Eric to build a modern-day version of The Emeraude, which today operates cruises on Halong Bay. For more information go to emeraude-cruises.com

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wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 51

LEISURE FITNESS

Road Runner Embarking on a mission to find out what the future has in store for urban running in Vietnam, Karen Hewell laces up her neon Nike trainers and talks with ultra-marathoner Huy Mai during his morning run.

Photo by Kyle Phanroy

I

t’s just before six in the morning, but in the balmy heat, beads of sweat are already collecting on my forehead. My muscles still feel cold and achy against the warming temperature, but as I round the corner of the Saigon Pearl parking garage exit, Huy is bouncing on the balls of his Sketchers’ shoe soles, smiling brightly and seemingly unaffected by the early hour.

“There’s a trail just behind here,” he motions towards the bridge behind the building. The already chaotic morning traffic disappears over its dauntingly steep incline, towards the Saigon skyline in the distance.

“Since you’re a trail runner, I thought you might enjoy it,” he smiles again before turning on his heel and bounding forwards across the parking lot.

A few days earlier, we had coordinated via phone our “running interview”, my audacious concept designed to pick his ultramarathoner brain about urban running while doing just that — running. During one of our previous conversations, I’d mistakenly referred to myself as a “trail runner”. In reality, my running shoes hadn’t touched anything apart from a treadmill and the odd bit of gravel for over a year. Yet, enchanted by the prospect, he’d enthusiastically suggested we follow a favourite route of his in District 2, which wound through a still undeveloped area past Thu Thiem bridge.

Now, as the sun begins to rise and I break into a jog approaching the bridge, I’m beginning to regret my optimism.

Urban Aches and Pains “You know, even though Saigon is technically lower [in elevation] and has more oxygen in the air than my hometown, I still feel like it’s much harder to breathe [when running] here,” Huy says as we cross an intersection heading towards busy Tran Van Khe. We’re only ten minutes into our run, but I’m already gasping for air between bursts of laboured speech. He’s clearly trying to make me feel a bit better about my

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fitness level, but he has a point.

On our left, morning commuters buzz past on motorbikes, leaving clouds of visible pollution in their wake. We are running straight into them, sucking down the carcinogens while our lungs fight to find the oxygen they need amid the exhaust fumes.

It terms of running conditions, it’s abysmal at best.

“The other day, I was running in my hometown [Bao Loc] in the mountains, at about 13 kilometers per hour. And really, I can never run that fast,” he pants. “This,” he nods toward our feet, “this is my average speed. About 10 kilometers an hour. But that day [in Bao Loc] I ran at that speed for an hour straight, with no problems. That’s something I could never do in the city.”

For Huy, urban running is a new venture, and despite his ability to knock out 30-kilometer city runs a day, he insists that it’s been a difficult transition from trail to road. He began running three years ago while living in Australia, but after returning home to Vietnam and moving to Saigon, he admits that his running shoes didn’t get much of a workout for months.

It was only when he was finally in a financial position to make regular journeys back to his mountainous hometown that he found his footing again.

Now, he bounces between the two cities, swapping soil for pavement every few days.

And although he’s had enough experience running the city’s streets to consider himself well acquainted with urban running in Saigon, for Huy, pounding the pavement here is a distant second to braving the great outdoors.

“I think I’m lucky that I have the choice to run in the city or in the mountains,” he says, slowing his pace to meet mine. “Most people don’t have that choice. They still have to be here because they work here [exclusively], and they still run. I really respect those people, because they stick it out and do whatever they can [to keep active].”

As Huy drops to a quick stroll to match

my continuously slowing jog, I find it hard to believe that a guy who considers a 15-kilometer sprint a mere warm-up would respect an urban runner like myself, who can hardly manage five. Yet, our conversation is making one thing clear: Huy has bigger motivations than competition.

Hazards of the Pavement At half an hour in, we’re finally crossing into a secluded trail off of Mai Chi Tho, exchanging motorbike exhaust for a strangely refreshing cloud of dust under our feet. In the distance is Bitexco Tower, separated from us by Saigon River and a small herd of goats. For me, it’s the first time I’ve seen a borderline-rural running route since I came to Saigon.

“Running in the city is [an entirely different experience],” Huy says when I mention the eerie calm. “I prefer these little routes. [In the city], the traffic lights, the motorcycles… the road is always packed.

I mean, I do enjoy running on the [asphalt road] more than I do on the pavement, but in the city, there’s too much [traffic]. It’s just not safe.”

And for Huy, the hazards are all too real.

Just over a year ago, he lost his brother and running partner in a fatal traffic accident.

Since then, he’s embarked on a mission to raise awareness of road safety by continuing with the pursuit that he and his brother shared.

Coming off of his previous 2,000km run from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, Huy is preparing to take on a 5,000km charity run through Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. It’s all to get motorists throughout Southeast Asia to take notice of the dangers that urban runners and cyclists face on a daily basis.

“It’s [about] awareness,” he says.

“Awareness of cyclers and runners on the road. People need to know and, more than anything, respect that there are others on the road, and that they need to be cautious [to make the city a safer place for everyone].”

Common Ground The importance of the move towards safer roads is obvious in the final stretch of our run. At an hour in, we are back on the road to Saigon Pearl. I watch Huy come within inches of a motorbike’s side view mirrors, the driver paying little attention. The impatience of commuters is something many urban runners like Huy come to expect in Saigon, not to mention the unavoidable close calls with motorists. It is the consequence

of the unbridled development of Vietnam’s cities. The effect on the lack of pedestrian infrastructure is felt acutely by urban runners.

At an hour and twenty minutes, we finally reach the bridge — the finish line for our run. As my feet drag to a long overdue halt, Huy slows to a walk, breathing easily and still with a little spring in his step.

Clearly, Huy and I have little in common

in terms of physicality. But I’m beginning to realise that we have one important thing in common: we both see a day when running in Saigon will no longer be a struggle against the environment.

“So,” I pant. “What do you think we have in common?” I ask him, curious if he’s come to the same conclusion. He thinks for a moment, and then smiles. “Well, runners run. That’s universal.”

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 53

LEISURE

RACING

Off the Main Drag

W

The capital’s newest sport? Motorbike racing on sand.

Words by Elisabeth Rosen. Photos by David Harris

ith the toss of a helmet into the air, two bikes tear down the empty stretch of sand, disappearing behind clouds of dust. It’s a Saturday afternoon and the racers are competing for winner’s spoils on a DIY racing circuit set up close to the Red River.

Only a few bumpy dirt roads away from the dyke road — Au Co — this area in Tay Ho often known as ‘The Beach’ has a quiet countryside vibe, with broad

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swaths of deserted sand flanked by paddy fields, banana plantations and palm trees.

Already a gathering point for groups of local wrestlers, dog walkers and friends who just want to hang out over a beer or five, The Beach is now drawing in a growing crowd of motorbike enthusiasts who see their vehicles as far more than a way to get to work.

“We really want to encourage people to get out on their bikes and have more fun instead of just enduring the daily commute,”

says Toby Stapleton, the owner of nearby KUB Cafe, which organised the drag race.

For the uninitiated, a drag race is simply a short-distance race that tests how quickly a driver can accelerate. Fortunately, because the drivers here are mostly using scooters with relatively low engine capacity, there isn’t much danger of crashing — even the term ‘race’ is mildly tongue-in-cheek. The first ‘meet’ two months ago was completely impromptu, attended by just a handful

of enthusiasts. “It was just like, there’s a beach, we got bikes, let’s go for a drag race,” says Osh Williamson, co-organiser and DJ. By the third race, there were dozens of attendees, prompted by a Facebook event and word of mouth. But while there are plans to have a race every month, the organisers hope to hang onto the casual vibe.

“The idea isn’t to become big. It’s an underground thing. Add a BBQ, some tunes.

Make it a family event,” Williamson says.

“We want this to be a place where people can come and bring their kids.”

Bring on the Bogan There are few children in sight today,

although the vibe is indeed more hangout than bike race. As the sun sets in a pink flush over the fields and trees, expats and Vietnamese linger around the BBQ, where local entrepreneur Aristotle Cabiles is supervising the grilling of his homemade sausages. Cabiles quit teaching to make sausages in flavours like garlic and applecinnamon; he often sees entire batches disappear in 30 minutes.

Tonight is no exception, as hungry racers surround the grill. Asked why they came today, they’re unequivocally enthusiastic.

“I’m from Australia and there’s this bogan element I love,” said Tom Rossiter, the principal of a local school.

“Bogan, what does that mean?”

“Almost like redneck. It means a lot for

Australians.”

Though Rossiter has ridden motorbikes all his life and is a veteran of the Hanoi scene, he’s impressed with the racing community’s rapid evolution.

“It’s the birth of a sand race club in Hanoi,” he says.

And it’s only the beginning. Stapleton has planned several future KUB events, including a steeplechase, a Hanoian take on a 250-year-old racing tradition from his family hometown in Ireland.

“Instead of horses we’re doing it with motorbikes!” he says.

Could be a bumpy road.

For more information on future races, go to facebook.com/kubcafe or check in at KUB Café itself — 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 55

Cover Story Sail away with me honey I put my heart in your hands Sail away with me honey now, now, now Sail away with me What will be will be I wanna hold you now — Sail Away by David Gray

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Provided by Eric Merlin / Emeraude Classic Cruises

We are sailing, we are sailing Home again ‘cross the sea We are sailing stormy waters To be near you, to be free — We Are Sailing by Rod Stewart

Life’s a Boat wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 57

Provided by Julie Vola

Once Upon a Time in Vietnam

The Vietnamese people’s relationship to water and the trade they plied through it were critical to the development of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

But today it lacks the same significance.

Words by Hoa Le

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Provided by Julie Vola

I

t’s not a coincidence that the word ‘country’ in Vietnamese — dat nuoc — is composed of two significant words: dat (earth or soil) and nuoc (water). As architect Nguyen Huy Anh, a member of Hanoi’s architect association, puts it: “This reflects the traditional thinking of Vietnamese people. Water has a special meaning: together with earth, it’s the element that makes up the nature of how people live.”

When Hanoi — then Thang Long — was first established by King Ly Thai To in 1010, it was with this harmony of earth and water in mind. He felt the location could become ‘prosperous’ due to its ideal terrain of both rivers and mountains, as well as a dense system of rivers, canals, ponds and lakes. In the 16th century, Hanoi was said to have about 400 lakes — at the time the Old Quarter was an interlacing system of dozens of lakes and numerous ponds.

However, the present day name, Hanoi, only came in the late 19th century. Meaning ‘the

city in between rivers’, it’s a moniker that demonstrates the special meaning water has to its existence.

And as with its younger sister city Saigon to the south, it was water and boat trade that enabled the development of what today is the capital of Vietnam.

From Establishment to Boomtown During the decades following the establishment of Thang Long, a citadel was built for the royal family and their court.

The commoners’ residential area — the precursor to the Old Quarter of today — sprung up beyond the walls to serve the royal family. Lying along the Red River on the eastern end of the citadel, despite its early establishment, it only began to flourish in the 17th and 18th centuries.

With the Red River remaining the main waterway of the city, other rivers were used for transportation. An economy gradually developed based on maritime trade and boat transportation sailing to and from the

capital and beyond.

However, it was only during the Le Dynasty period of the 16th century that the Old Quarter really began to flourish.

Thanks to the establishment of international shipping routes, there was an exponential rise in overseas trade. Thang Long found itself conveniently located on a trade route between China and the East Sea. With new riverports and seaports attracting trade elsewhere in Vietnam, Thang Long became used as a collection and gathering point as well as a central intermediary stop. With trade came wealth and importance, and Hanoi quickly became both the political and economic centre of Vietnam as well as one of the largest cities in Southeast Asia.

This was boosted by trans-ocean trade, which attracted merchants from Europe. The Dutch East India Company established a large warehouse on the banks of the Red River in 1645 while the British East India Company established their own storage facility in 1683. These

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 59

“With new riverports and seaports attracting trade elsewhere in Vietnam, Thang Long became used as a collection and gathering point as well as a central intermediary stop. With trade came wealth and importance”

The Story of Tran Hung Dao Regarded as one of the most accomplished tacticians in military history, General Tran Hung Dao managed to score three victories over the Mongols under Kublai Khan. However, the most impressive was in 1288 when together with other Vietnamese forces he managed to overcome a combined Mongol-Chinese army of 500,000 men.

Having stuttered after initially capturing Van Don Island and destroying Vietnamese forces on the border, the Mongol leader Prince Toghan sent his fleet under naval commander Omar down the Bach Dang River towards Hanoi (then Thang Long).

Anticipating the use of this route, Tran Hung Dao embedded steel-tipped spikes in the river, which were only visible at low tide. He then deployed smaller and more maneuverable vessels into agitating and luring the Mongol vessels towards the riverbank. As the tide fell, so the larger Mongol boats were forced into the middle of the river where they got caught on the embedded steeltipped stakes. A total of 400 vessels were destroyed while the Viet forces managed to capture the remaining naval crew along the river. Admiral Omar was captured and executed and with his naval fleet destroyed, Prince Toghan retreated north of the border.

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warehouses stimulated the flow of goods from surrounding areas into the capital.

The British merchant, William Dampier, described the facilities back in 1668: “The house is built parallel to the river, both ends have smaller rooms used for other purposes — kitchen and storage. The line up from the big house to the riverbank forms a long yard perpendicular to the river.”

Thanks to increased tax revenues, in the 17th and early 18th centuries the Trinh Lords began restructuring the capital. Increasing the city’s size, they also built large houses to match their social status. This restructuring brought in artisans from the surrounding regions — bricklayers, stonemasons, carvers, painters, engravers and embroiderers were all mobilised to build and decorate the new buildings. Initially dependent on the citadel for its existence, the Old Quarter now became an independent, residential and commercial area with its own economy.

Boats with cargos of rice and salt would sail up from the Red River Delta, pass through Thang Long and unload their goods onto piers in the Old Quarter before continuing upstream into the highlands.

Other boats brought in locally produced goods such as metal (mainly copper), cattle, forest products, logs and bamboo, also stopping by the Old Quarter before running downstream. The goods from those boats were brought into the capital and then distributed to the smaller, satellite towns in the surrounding Delta.

All in a Name

During this era the Red River ran right along the residential area, which is now Tran Nhat Duat Street — piers and harbours in the Old Quarter became busy trading points. After the arrival of the French, these areas were named after the goods that were sold there. Hang Than (or Coal Street) was where boats from the south and Xu Doai (west of Hanoi) often stopped to load

limestone to supply lime kilns along the dykes. Hang Be (or Raft Street) was where the bamboo rafts were loaded and sold.

This trading also formed a busy market on this street, which was called the Raft Market or Cho Hang Be. About where Chuong Duong Bridge is now was a major stopping point for boats of all kinds. There were three piers here — Ky Buoi, Tau Hieu and Sova piers — where Vietnamese, Chinese and western boats moored respectively. A little further south of this area, where now sits the giant Techcombank building, was once where To Lich River met the Red River. At this confluence was the main trading point for rice — the street here was later called Rice Market Street (Pho Cho Gao). Products from the sea and other goods shipped down the Red River such as fish, fish sauce, salt, bamboo, vases and wicker mats were also traded in the capital. Streets were formed and named accordingly: Fish Street (Hang Ca), Sauce Street (Hang Mam), Salt Street (Hang Muoi), Mat Street (Hang Chieu), Bamboo Street (Hang Tre) and Vase Street (Hang Chinh).

During the Nguyen dynasty of the 19th century, a wave of Chinese traders migrated to the city, forming a new class of wealthy merchants. They lived in streets like Hang Buom or Ma May. In his book, The Economic History of Hanoi in the 17th, 18th and 19th Centuries, historian Nguyen Thua Hy describes the wealth of these streets: “These streets all had impressive gates inside, paved with two or three layers of tiles; the roads were carefully preserved, with beautiful brick houses along each side. The roadbed was curved slightly like a tortoise’s back and it was cobbled with broad stones.“ Besides its commercial success, the Old Quarter became a hub for food and entertainment. Along Hang Buom Street there were many Chinese cao lau restaurants,

Images on this page povided by Eric Merlin / Emeraude Classic Cruises

tea ‘shops’ and liquor ‘houses’. Many places on Hang Giay were hat a dao or ca tru theatres with beautiful women — they became a regular stop for wealthy merchants.

Despite the bustling development of the area, road building and maintenance were neglected. Except on the wealthy streets occupied by Chinese merchants, the appearance of the streets remained unchanged. In 1888 when Hanoi formally became a French concession, new buildings and road systems were constructed.

Filling Up Periods

This ushered in the first major period of filling in lakes and rivers. In 1889, To Lich River was filled in to build the streets of Nguyen Sieu and Ngo Gach. A huge lake that once lay behind Hang Dao was also filled in to build roads. The Opera House was constructed on reclaimed land — where it sits today was once a lake.

Around the same time, Long Bien Bridge was built and with the Red River starting to change its flow — the current began moving down the Gia Lam side of the river — a dyke road was constructed along Tran Nhat Duat in the space that had once been occupied by piers.

However, according to architect Nguyen Huy Anh, the period that marks the largest wave of land reclamation was in the years following Doi Moi in 1986. By 2000, when land prices began to soar in the Old Quarter, there were no lakes or ponds remaining.

Today the only body of water in the area is Hoan Kiem Lake.

If once rivers and lakes held a crucial cultural and economical value to the citizens of Hanoi, today they are viewed only as a cultural asset.

“It’s the result of development and the economic boom,” says Anh. “However, the meaning of water still remains sacred to Vietnam.”

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Provided by Eric Merlin / Emeraude Classic Cruises

Waterworld The former twin cities of Saigon and Cholon were originally built for boats. The traces of their waterways can still be felt in the metropolis of today. Words by Nick Ross

Provided by Eric Merlin / Emeraude Classic Cruises

Thien Hau In early 2013 the temple to the guardian of the sea, Thien Hau in Thu Thiem, was finally razed to the ground. Located next to Saigon’s CBD but on the opposite side of the river, the temple was more than a legend. Constructed to watch over boats entering and leaving Central Saigon, the temple was a physical manifestation of a belief that has stretched from its origins in China all the way through East and Southeast Asia.

The story of Thien Hau is the story of Lin Moniang. Born in the 10th century on Meizhou Island in Fujian, an excellent swimmer, she would stand of the shore to guide boats home by wearing red garments, even in the harshest weather.

One day, a typhoon hit the island while Lin’s brothers and father were out fishing at sea. In the midst of this storm, she fell into a sleep-like trance and had a vision — she saw her father and brother were drowning. But Moniang’s mother discovered her sleeping and tried to wake her. This diverted her attention and caused her to drop her brother who drowned as a result. The father returned alive and told the other villagers that a miracle had happened.

Eventually known as Mazu — Thien Hau in Vietnamese — it is believed that Moniang’s spirit roams the seas and watches over fishermen.

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J

ust a decade ago Thi Nghe Canal, the waterway running from the Saigon River through to Tan Binh, was a mess. Rubbish lined its banks and blocked its sewers, rainy season flooding was a constant threat and the stench that drifted off the waterway seemed to sit almost permanently over the houses and shanties that lined its banks.

Fast forward to 2013 — thanks to the World Bank-sponsored Ho Chi Minh City Environmental Sanitation Project, the Nhieu Loc-Thi Nghe Basin has been transformed.

51km of combined primary and secondary sewers, and 375km of tertiary sewers have been replaced. A 9km wastewater interceptor has been installed, centralising wastewater collection. The canal has been dredged, the 18km of embankments reinforced. The list goes on.

In total the work has benefited the lives of 1.2 million people. Thanks to the significant improvement of the water quality, even the fish and the fishermen have returned.

Little did the authorities realise in the 18th and 19th centuries that their plans to dig canals and expand boat trade would have such an effect on the city of the 21st century. Although the Thi Nghe Canal is one of only five natural waterways remaining in the Saigon-Cholon area, much work is still to be done.

The Rise of Cholon

Left over from the 18th and 19th century development of the then-separate cities Saigon and Cholon, the likes of Thi Nghe, Ben Nghe, Tau Hu, Lo Gom and Ruot Ngua Canals were once the lifeblood of the developing metropolis. Acting as a thoroughfare for boats transporting goods from the Mekong, they helped create a trade route connecting the far south of Vietnam with the East Sea and the rest of Southeast Asia.

Settled en masse in 1782 after the Tay Son forces pushed Chinese immigrants out of Bien Hoa, Cholon — now the modern day area covered by Districts 5 and 6 — quickly became a trade hub. Boat trade ran from China, Japan and Faifo (Hoi An) in the north to Singapore and Malacca in the Malaysian Peninsula. Aided by the economic ambitions of the Nguyen Dynasty, who widened and dug canals in the 1770s to promote trade, a market was established on the site now occupied by Cho Ray Hospital.

Named Tai Ngon — meaning embankment in Chinese — by the 19th century the market appeared on several maps not as Tai Ngon but as Sai Gon, the name the French appropriated after 1859 to rename the former Ben Nghe as the new capital of Annam, Saigon.

Originally connected to Cholon Creek by Pho Xep Canal (now Chau Van Liem Street), the French relocated the old market to a site closer to the Arroyo Chinoise (now Tau Hu Canal), the waterway running between Cholon and Saigon. In the 1920s, thanks to a scheme to replace Cholon Creek and its connecting waterways with roads, the Chinese businessman Quach Dam proposed the building of a new market on the area occupied by nearby Binh Tay Market.

With the canals filled, merchants could no longer access the central market by boat. Binh Tay, however, was thriving. Thanks to the completion of Bai Say Canal in 1891 — which ran past the market — both the waterway and its wharf were constantly busy with merchant shipping. Much of the surrounding land also belonged to Quach Dam. Permission was granted, Quach Dam donated his land to the city, and in February 1926, construction began. Completed in September 1928, Quach Dam never saw the finished market — he died in May 1927 at the age of 65. In 1930 a bronze statue was erected in Binh Tay Market to commemorate this philanthropist and businessman, dubbed by

French media as the ‘king of commerce’. It stands there to this day, as do many of the canals.

The Arrival of the French

The rebuilding of Saigon by the French on the site formerly known as Ben Nghe — now the centre of District 1 — was also planned with boats and trade in mind.

Founded in 1698 by Nguyen Huu Canh with the establishment of a fort in Gia Dinh, by the time the French moved in Saigon was already an important commercial centre.

Although the main trading commodity was rice, there was also plenty of activity in shipbuilding, sugar production, bronze making and handicrafts.

When Admiral Charner arrived in Saigon by boat in 1861 with a force of about 3,500 men, there was also a large shipyard, as well as many other workshops and foundries stretching along the Saigon River. Warehouses and grain stores belonging to Chinese traders lined the banks of Hau Tu Canal. Far from being a wild and uninhabited land, Saigon and its surroundings had developed a thriving civilisation.

Despite a spirited defense of the areas around Saigon by the Vietnamese, the superior weapons of the attackers ensured

eventual victory. In June 1862, the Treaty of Saigon was signed by Emperor Tu Duc. The plan of Saigon drawn up by Admiral Charner changed the city from the Asian style of villages and a citadel to a western city. Yet the Vietnamese civilian population living in Saigon fell from an estimated 100,000 inhabitants before the French attack to only 6,000 to 7,000 afterwards.

Despite redesigning the city, the French continued to make use of the existing canals. Five channels made up the inland waterway transport system of the time.

However, by 1900 they had been filled in, later becoming main roads — Le Loi, Nguyen Hue, Pasteur and Ham Nghi. The fifth canal entered the city under the area now occupied by Ong Lanh Bridge.

Yet, the need for boat trade between Saigon, Cholon and the Mekong Delta remained. In the early 1900s more canals were built, including Canal de Doublement (Kenh Doi) as well as a number of linking canals now found in District 8.

By 1900, Saigon had become known as the Pearl of the Far East. Inaugurated in 1881, tramlines ran between Saigon and Cholon. Large public works like the Notre Dame Cathedral had been built. The first hotel in the colony, The Continental Hotel, was completed in 1880, and Parisian society

with a distinct Indochine flair was in full flow.

But the key to the success of Saigon and its neighbor, Cholon, was the rivers, the canals and the merchant trade by boats.

Without boats and their ability to transport goods, the city we know today would never have existed.

A New Challenge

Take a speedboat down Kenh Te and then Rach Ong Lanh, two canals running through District 7, and on the river you see the city of the past. Stilt houses patched together with corrugated iron hug the embankments, fishing boats moor themselves to the banks and rubbish floats through the water. There is no proper wastewater management system here — the canals act as sewers.

With the advent of motor vehicles and air travel, boat trade in Ho Chi Minh City is on the wane. In the process, this metropolis is now dealing with the negative effects of a waterway and economic system built for a past era.

One environmental sanitation project has been completed and more are on their way. It will take time. But as the rivers and canals get cleaned up, so a new notion of water and boat travel will appear.

“Little did the authorities realise in the 18th and 19th centuries that their plans to dig canals and expand boat trade would have such an effect on the city of the 21st century”

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Speed T

Karen Hewell takes a speedboat trip down Saigon River and its many tributaries to discover a collection of underutilised waterways. Photos by Mads Monsen and Nick Ross

he sun is setting along Saigon River, and the glistening white speedboat I’m sitting on is momentarily silent and still, bobbing along the waves. On our left is dense green foliage and a few lounging fishing boats along the bank, and on the right are some scattered villas with great bay windows opening out to the water. It’s

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quiet — eerily quiet — and the lights of the far off Bitexco Tower are just starting to blink to life.

On Saigon River, you’d be forgiven for thinking you aren’t in Vietnam’s largest metropolis — or any major urban center — at all. And now that the time is nearing six in the evening, the roads surrounding Bitexco Tower are surely in the throes of

rush hour traffic. Yet on this particular highway, traversed not with two wheels but two amphibious motors, rush hour is non-existent.

Forgotten Highways

“Normally, travelling to Phu My Hung [from District 2] would take at least half an hour,” says Carl Gay, a long-time Saigon expat who

is part-owner of the very speedboat we are sitting on. “On a boat like this? 10 minutes.”

The speed and ease of travelling on a speedboat is made obvious by the sheer distance we’ve covered in the short time we’ve been on the water. In no more than half an hour, we’ve gone from District 2’s Thao Dien area to Phu My Hung and halfway back. On a motorbike, the journey would have taken at least an hour, fighting traffic the entire way. On a boat, the only traffic is the odd fishing boat or container ship trudging past the river’s intermediary ports.

“On a boat, you see another side of the city. You see everything from a new

perspective,” says Carl as he maneuvers the vessel past dilapidated shanty houses on rickety wooden stilts. He’s putting it lightly — it’s nearly impossible to believe that these houses are only a stone’s throw from District 7’s Crescent Mall.

Yet strangely, even with the promise of commute times cut in half and access to a side of the city few get the chance to see, the waterways are nearly empty, and the few yachts parked besides luxurious mansions are silent, probably unused for weeks. Instead, a few aging vessels carrying the day’s catch or transporting goods dominate the Saigon River. And then there are nighttime dinner cruise boats plying the

stretch of water between Saigon Bridge, Bach Dang Port and District 4. Unlike this plexiglass stallion, none of these vessels are built for speed.

The Changing Tides

Although the river remains strangely underutilised, a savvy few have recognised its potential, and the future promise of speedboat transportation. Started by the nearly two-decade old Riverside Apartments in District 2, luxury resorts like An Lam and Villa Song are popping up along the riverbank and building their own docks.

Private speedboats transport their guests via the water, lending a rare disconnected

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solitude to the otherwise difficult-to-reach locations.

Tour companies, too, have recognised the potential for boosted tourism via speedy transportation. Saigon River Express — one of the only boat tour companies that use smaller speedboats for their operations — have connected downtown Saigon with Cu Chi Tunnels and the mangrove swamps of Can Gio, skipping the lengthy bus transfer.

Dai Phuoc Golf Course has even jumped on the bandwagon by adding their own speedboat dock for clients. Saigon River restaurants like Boathouse and The Deck also offer guest transportation services between District 2 and downtown Saigon.

But unlike the public river transport service along Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River, the developments have stopped short of commercial water taxi services not because of the lack of demand, but the infrastructure.

The transition from leisure boating to commercial transport is one steeped in complication and confusion, and the legal hurdles are yet to be cleared.

“Having a personal boat on the river is pretty easy, but the moment you want to turn your boat into a business, you run into problems,” says Carl. “The infrastructure just hasn’t caught up to the demand. When the demand is there, though, maybe it will follow.”

The January fire on the Vina Express hydrofoil between Ho Chi Minh City and Vung Tau may also have set back any hopes. Subsequent to the accident, all public boat services between the two cities were suspended. And recent media reports suggest they are unlikely to resume any time soon. If at all.

The Future of Speed

But perhaps the bright future of Saigon River is closer than we think. With each new riverside development comes more reason to take to the water and not the road. Diamond Island has taken advantage of the river to transport its residents between its District 2 location and Central Saigon, as for a number of years has Saigon Domaine. Many other new developments are setting up services as well. The promise of a quick, speedboat commute into the city centre is proving a draw for apartment developments looking to attract residents.

But for many more focused on the recreation, the luxury and the lifestyle that a speedboat promises, the future isn’t just about getting around. It’s about what owning a speedboat means.

“With a boat, you can’t worry about the money, or the cost of maintenance,” says Carl, whose own speedboat is still strictly for his and the other owners’ recreational use. “A speedboat is a luxury — it’s about the lifestyle. I mean, nobody buys a Bentley because it’s comfortable. They buy it for what it means.”

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Passengers in the Night It’s 1am on the middle watch, Jun. 15 1977. Seaman Karlson and myself, helmsman Monsen, observe a weak light through the darkness on the starboard side of our ship. Assuming it’s a fishing vessel and wanting to avoid any collision, we change course.

The light follows and we change course yet again. This time to port side. The light continues in our direction. But now we are so close that through our binoculars we can observe people of the small vessel.

They are waving kerosene lamps and items they have lit up with a fire.

The captain is called to the bridge and he orders us to reduce the speed.

He instructs me to proceed to the engine room where we have a supply hatch that we can open. I ask the people on the boat if they need of any food, water or medical assistance. They reply “No.” They only wish to be picked up and kept safe after leaving Vietnam behind.

I enter their vessel to do a headcount.

Twice — more and more people emerge.

Five men, four women and 10 children, including several infants. Once they are safely onboard, our chef cooks up food for the whole group.

We are en route to Hong Kong having just left Singapore. In Hong Kong we spend an extra day in port while the necessary papers and guarantees are procured from the Norwegian authorities.

The boat refugees are set ashore and taken to a refugee camp.

— Mads Henrik Monsen

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On the Sampan Nick Ross spends two days edging down the Mekong River on a Chinese-style sampan — and lives to tell the otherworldly tale

T

he bats swoop and then circle, lit up by the nightlight of the boat.

Noises — short, sharp, animated insect noises — drift up from the water hyacinth. Beyond a solitary vessel chugs past, its engine breaking the peace of the river night. A cool breeze drifts across the surface of the water and above the constellations are clear — The Snake, Orion, The Southern Cross — shining through the haze of the Mekong night.

3am and our boat is moored to a nha be, a floating house, and despite the fan-cooled cabin, my body refuses to succumb to much needed sleep. I’ve slept on water many times before, on cruises along the Atlantic Ocean, on luxury boats heading up the Mekong, on ferries between one country or island and another. But never have I slept in such a small vessel and at river level.

Our sampan — a traditional Chinese wooden boat with a sheltered area woven out of rattan — has only two cabins. The fancooled cabins are comfortable enough, fitted with modern conveniences, Wi-Fi, mosquito nets and couch-style seating. But the sense of confinement, of being so close to the water, makes me desperate for the air and the world outside. For one of the few times I can remember, I feel part of the river upon which I float. I need to let its breezes brush past me, its stillness suck me in, its ambience soak me up. My boat may be affected with the luxury afforded to tourists, but beyond that I am no different to all those other people sleeping on the Mekong at night.

I’m on a two-day trip along the Mekong River from Cai Be to the city of Long Xuyen before travelling the final 60km by car to the border town of Chau Doc. The last frontier before Vietnam gives way to Cambodia, the city lies at the confluence of two snakelike strands of the Mekong. Two years before I boated this part of the river and followed it up to Phnom Penh. But this time my journey is much shorter and for company I have the three boat attendants — Tri, Hoang and

Phuoc — their boss and a former tour guide, Nghia, and Pascale, a long-term French expat who has been working in the travel industry for years. And of course I also have the boat, chugging through the water, merging into the boat and river life through which we move. ********** Suong lets us clamber onto her nha be.

Moored in the shadow of My Thuan Bridge it is one of 18 lying in a row, each tied to the next. On her boat-cum-farm-cum-house she is breeding red snapper, together with her husband. But the nha be is not her own.

“We rent it from the owner and work for him, too,” she explains. All other 17 nha be are the same.

With a canal-like structure running through the midst of the house bordered by wooden planks, Suong shows us what happens when she feeds the fish. She throws the feed into the water and within seconds they come to the surface, thrashing about as they compete for each grain of food.

“It takes six months for the fish to grow into adults,” she says. “We feed them twice a day. At first it doesn’t cost so much. But as they get bigger, we have to give them more food.”

Unlike other people we encounter along the river, she doesn’t seem to be struggling.

There’s no sense of complaint in her voice, no angst or intimations of hardship. She makes VND5 million a month, small by city standards. But this is not the city. And while her oldest son has already left school, the youngest is in Grade 6. She’s making a living. It’s meagre, but the family is cared for. ********** The sampan gets to Sa Dec and we alight, headed for the house of Huynh Thuy Le. The former lover of French writer Marguerite Duras — a love affair that was immortalised

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Cruises B HAYA bhayacruises.com Two luxury, classic junk-style vessels plying the bays of Halong. Also have a more upmarket, cruise boat, The Au Co. Run a range of tours and private trips.

D U L ICH S ONG H ONG

dulichsonghong.com One of only a couple of services running cruises out of Hanoi up and down the Red River. Email dulichsonghong@gmail. com for information — the website is only in Vietnamese.

E MERAUDE C LASSIC C RUISES emeraude-cruises.com Overnight cruises on a replica of one of the original early 20th century paddle steamers that brought the first tourists to Halong Bay.

H ERITAGE L INE

heritage-line.com Luxury cruises on Halong Bay and along the Mekong River from My Tho all the way to Siem Reap. Five-star accommodation and facilities on a boat.

P ERFUME R IVER E MOTION

perfumeriveremotion.com Overnight cruises along the Perfume River in Hue on a traditional sampan.

T ONKIN C RUISES

tonkincruise.com Four junk-style boats plying the routes of Halong Bay. Do one-day, two-day and three-day tours in their four-star vessels.

V ICTORIA C RUISES

victoriahotels.asia Cruises and tours run by the Victoria group along the Mekong. Have a range of vessels from speedboats connecting Chau Doc with Phnom Penh through to luxury, two-cabin sampans for two or three nights along the river. Often run in conjunction with hotel stays at their three to five-star properties in Chau Doc, Can Tho, Nui Sam and Siem Reap.

V IKING R IVER C RUISES

vikingrivercruises.com 15-day luxury river cruises and tours that start in Hanoi and finish in Ho Chi Minh City, with flight travel in between.

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in both her novel The Lover and then the subsequent movie of the same name — this is the highlight of visiting this Mekong Delta town. But before we enter the building, Nghia guides us through the market. He shows us the produce on sale — it’s nothing new to either me or Pascale — and then tells us about the town. I notice the Chinese characters on most of the shopfronts.

“Is this a Chinese town?” I ask. He nods.

The Chinese live in the market area while the Vietnamese live elsewhere in town, he explains. Huynh Thuy Le was also Chinese, and as we are shown around his house, now under the auspices of Dong Thap Province, I feel like I’m walking into a 100-year-old building in Singapore, Malacca or Penang.

There are differences, of course — unlike the Straits Chinese, in Vietnam there was no merging of cultures — but the effect is the same. Century-old decadence, exquisite carvings, a sense of time forgotten but not erased.

As we leave Pascale is frustrated. We’ve been forced to have a tour guide who’s told us nothing about the house itself, but has instead focused on the story of Marguerite Duras — and not even the book version. No mention has been made of what the carvings symbolise, at no point does the guide explain

the odd front door or the sunken floor in the main hallway. And at no point do we learn about the daily life of the family that would have lived here.

It’s a lost opportunity, a lost chance to discover another angle to the history of the fertile basin that makes up the Delta. But it was a welcome visit nonetheless. ********** Down the river we stop at a brick factory. As you get close to Cambodia, these structures line the riverfront. Buying up mud from whole paddy fields — sometimes the soil is no longer fertile, so it’s sold on — the clay-like substance is then delivered by boat and instantly turned into brick form by machine. A team of workers stacks the wet brick and leaves it to dry in the sun. Once it has dried it is cooked in one of many kilns, the beehive-like structures you see towering over the river. The baking process takes up to two weeks. Then the completed bricks are packed up and sold on to the construction industry.

Vietnam is in a construction phase at the moment, and in the last decade brick factories have multiplied. With a growing population and increasing wealth, it seems

there is no end for the demand for bricks, the basic building blocks of life. Yet it is odd that like so much else in Vietnam, the clay comes from recycled paddy. Even the fuel to heat the kiln is recycled — dried rice husks.

Castoffs from the process of harvesting rice. ********** A tug chugs by, and despite its slow speed, a wave still crashes gently into the boats sitting in its wake. We’re at the floating market outside Long Xuyen and I’ve just descended a boat selling potatoes. Tons of potatoes. The owners are downhearted and negative. Business is bad at the moment, not just for them but for everyone at the market. Two years ago sales were so good that the place was packed, but now there’s a slump and the number of boats selling fruit and vegetables on this strand of the river is falling away.

Nghia points out the fruit and vegetables attached to posts on each boat. They’re paraded high above the vessels like flags.

“If a boat has something attached to the pole, then that’s what they’re selling,” he explains.

“What if they don’t?” I ask, as a motorised canoe zooms past filled to the brim with

coconuts.

“Either they’re waiting for produce or they’re buying.”

“Look,” says Pascale, pointing at a boat with her finger again. “There she goes again!

Breakfast! You’ve got to get a photo of her.”

A woman in a motorised canoe has been weaving in and out of all the boats. I zoom in close with my camera lens. “Com tam,” I say, “She’s selling com tam!”

The novelty makes we want to call her over and buy breakfast, but we’ve just been served up a spread of eggs, sausages, fruit, yoghurt, orange juice and cereal.

Pascale thinks about it and later tells Nghia that guests on the sampan should have the option. They should be able to eat a normal breakfast or they should also be able to opt for one off the river. ********** The sampan drifts into Long Xuyen port, but there’s no space to moor. Our driver is waiting there, waiting to take us the last leg of the journey to Chau Doc. Lunch awaits us with the GM of The Victoria Hotel, before I continue onto my resting place, another Victoria property but this time on Nui Sam, a mountain with sweeping views of the

countryside. All this once we’re able to dock.

The boat sweeps round, but the turning space is at a minimum — the small minisampan attached to its side bumps into a rowing boat. There are calls to watch out before the collision, but after it happens not an eyelid is lifted or incrimination voiced.

This is normal on the river. Boats hit boats.

Wood collides with wood, metal with metal.

Unlike land transport, boats are hardy, built for the wear and tear of the water on which they reside, the water that transports them from one place to the next. Only ‘hellos’ are called out from the people watching us from their boats. I respond in turn.

Eventually we’re able to moor and with sadness I say my farewells. We’re leaving Tri, Hoang and Phuoc behind with the sampan, while Nghia is returning by road to Can Tho. It’s only been short yet it’s been one of those journeys, the kind of experience that even the most hardened of traveller craves for. We’ve been on the river at the same level as all the other vessels plying their waterborne course.

Next time I’ll need a week.

For more information on the sampan trips organised by Victoria Cruises, call (0733) 924658, email resa.caibe@victoriahotels.asia or go to victoriahotels.asia

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Birdwatching

by Boat

Pirates and Cavaliers Piracy in Southeast Asia began in the 13th century with the retreating Mongol Yuan fleet. Due to a huge betrayal by their Javanese allies, they found themselves marooned in the Indonesian Archipelago. Consisting of mainly Cantonese and Hokkien tribesmen, the stranded navy officers quickly set up small gangs near river estuaries in Java and Sumatra and, with their junk and pugilist and marine skills, began making a living by raiding merchant boats along the growing maritime routes of the region.

However, the most powerful pirate fleets of East Asia were those of the Chinese pirates during the mid-Qing dynasty of the early 19th century. The effects large-scale piracy had on both the Chinese and northern Vietnamese economies were immense. They preyed voraciously on junk trade, which then flourished in Fujian, Guangdong and the northern part of Vietnam. They also exercised hegemony over villages on the coast, collecting revenue by exacting tribute and running extortion rackets.

It took a concerted effort in the midto-late 19th century by a mixture of American, British and French troops to rid the area of the pirates, whose fleets finally disappeared in the early 20th century. *This extract was originally printed in The Jewels of Halong Bay, a book published by The Ministry of Labour Publishing House

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I

Nick Ross ventures into the wetlands of Tra Su near the border with Cambodia, and discovers the vibrancy of nature in its most glorious form

wanted to go there by bicycle, but while the early morning 25km journey would have been cool and pleasant, I was told the return would be too hot. They were right. By the time I arrived by car at Tra Su Nature Reserve in the far southwest of the Mekong Delta, the heat was nearing midmorning intensity. Within 15 minutes, beads of sweat were rolling down my face. And that was in the shade.

Tra Su is not the kind of nature reserve where you go cycling — although tandems are for hire. And if you walk, you miss both the perspective and the wildlife. To get a feel for this quite unique and little known bird sanctuary, you need to take a boat. In my case, two boats. These are melaleuca wetlands, grasslands and swamp. Those restricted to land don’t fare well out here.

The first part of the journey is by motorised canoe and takes you through

ponds of lotus. Algae, lilies, trees with roots built for an aquatic landscape and other river surface fauna make up the rest of the waterways here, the pink and white of the lotus flowers blending in with the many shades of green of the surrounds. But it’s only as you leave the lotus behind that you start to see the wonders of Tra Su.

Through the Water

On my visit, the water was low — it was the end of the dry season. The levels the water had reached last year were marked in a dark, muddy brown on the bottom of the trees. The waterways were a half-metre below their rain-aided high. Yet the birds stayed year round.

We had already heard the silencedestroying jungle call of the coucal pheasant, a relative of the cuckoo, and as we rounded one corner now we both

“To get a feel for this quite unique and little known bird sanctuary, you need to take a boat. These are melaleuca wetlands, grasslands and swamp. Those restricted to land don’t fare well out here”

heard and saw the flapping of wings. White egrets. For the rest of the motorised trip, the closest we got to the birds was spying them from a distance perched on branches or just above the water before they took flight.

Arriving at a ridge dug out of the swamps we swapped boats, exchanging motor for oars. Here the trees and plant-covered waters provided a murky background for what was to come. With rays of sun peaking through the melaleuca, we entered a tight channel and the birds came into view. They were everywhere.

I spotted a white egret resting among branches no more than three metres away, before it flapped its wings and fled through the trees. Then a baby white egret, oblivious to our presence and the swooshing of the oars. As we wound our way through yet another narrow passage, I could spy nests in the trees above, and then suddenly a black-crowned night heron, perched in between the branches, leaves and trees.

The oars were removed from the water and quietly we floated by. Transfixed by something else, the bird didn’t see us. Its plumage was spread before our upturned eyes — it was magnificent.

Further on, the passageway broke out into a wide algae and lily-covered lake. In

the distance we could see a huge group of storks with their long angular beaks, nesting on branches sticking out of the water. Eventually they sensed our presence and flapped off. The swamp hen nearby wasn’t as alert, failing to see us as it made its way across the surface vegetation of the water, chick in tow.

And then the sight of the day, a bird whose species still evades me. All white but without the s-like neck of the egret or the stork, it perched for 10 seconds or maybe 15, giving us a clear view. The rowing boat drifted past in silence. When it finally flew off, it wasn’t in response to us, but to something else — the rare and endangered

Asian open bill in the distance remain rooted to its spot.

With over 70 species of bird in the nature reserve, I want to say that Tra Su is a birdwatchers’ paradise. But I don’t know what birdwatchers consider to be paradise. For me this place was both special and unexpected. Drifting along the waterways creates a oneness with nature, a sense of being in the middle of something that you’re close enough to touch. It’s a perspective you rarely find elsewhere in Vietnam.

Tra Su Nature Reserve is 25km from Chau Doc in An Giang, close to the Tinh Bien border crossing to Cambodia

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All images on this spread are provided by Eric Merlin / Emeraude Classic Cruises

Boating on the Bay Navigating the karsts of Halong Bay on pleasure cruises is an old tradition. If you look at it right, Katie Jacobs finds, not much has changed

T

he gusty wind cools the crackling hot air as our boat, the Marguerite Garden, chugs her way into the picturesque Halong Bay. Although this is my fourth visit to the bay, the sight of the colossal limestone pillars rising sharply out of the emerald green water and glistening in the bright midday sun still leaves me in awe.

Arriving on the boat in time for a delicious lunch of local vegetables and freshly caught seafood, we settle into the comfortable, airconditioned dining room as the limestone monoliths, topped with shaggy wigs of green vegetation, leisurely pass us by. Along with the approximately 600 other overnight cruise boats, we start our adventure into the heart of Vietnam’s most popular tourist attraction.

Yesterday

Since its dedication as a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site in 1994, tourism in the bay has escalated rapidly. Long before

UNESCO, however, adventure seekers started finding their way to this unique and majestic area.

The first tourist boats were launched at the turn of the 20th century and visitors had the option of multi-day travel on luxury cruisers or rustic cargo ships carrying goods and passengers from Hai Phong Port. Early photos show couples in long white dresses, linen suits and straw hats picnicking in small coves — while in the later shots, bobbed-haired women in sleeveless shirts tour the bay on large steamers. It was with glamour and glitz that the first paddle boat steamers took to Halong Bay, with high-class chefs, electricity and ensuite bathrooms. No expense was spared.

Although many of today’s boats have lost the early 20th century glamour, the magic of the bay remains unchanged. The karst landscape, small beaches and impressive caves were as admired in the past as they are today. The diary of a visitor in the early 1920s reads: “The Bay of Halong is certainly

one of the most curious places which can exist.” There’s little real difference between this quote, and a Tripadvisor review of nearly a century later — “Halong Bay is just out of this world, like nothing ever seen before.”

Today

Taking advantage of the clear and sunny skies, I hop off for a quick jaunt to the top of a nearby limestone hill. Venturing up the stepped path, flanked by beautiful purple flowers, I reach the summit in less than 10 minutes. At this vantage point, it is easy to visualise the story my guide Tien had shared earlier that day.

Although variations exist, legend dictates that the Jade Emperor sent a dragon to help to the Viet people fend off invaders. The dragon dropped large pearls in the water to confuse and shipwreck the enemy. These pearls — there are 1,600 of them — are the weathered monoliths we see today. Although changing throughout history, the name ‘Ha

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Tourism to the Bay Already sat on a shipping route, with regular maritime services between Hai Phong, Hong Kong, Hanoi, Saigon and Tourane (Danang), it was only at the beginning of the early 20th century that Halong Bay opened up to tourism. The pioneer? The French-born law graduate and entrepreneur, Paul Roque.

The second generation of a family that had first arrived in Vietnam with the French colonisation of Saigon, by the time Paul opened up the bay, there were already regular car services running between Hai Phong and the seaside resort of Do Son, a favourite holiday destination. However, it was only with the arrival of four custom-built paddle steamers from Hong Kong — the Emeraude, Saphir, Rubis and Perle — that the true magic of Halong Bay could be opened up to the general public.

The French public were instantly entranced. Almost 1,000 of the stone islands of Halong Bay had been named, most of them reflecting their unusual shapes: Elephant Island, Hen and Cock Islands, Incense Burner Island. Others resembled boat sails, or heads, candles, and of course, a dragon. Then there were the caves — The Cave of Surprises and the Cave of Wonders with their large stalagmites and stalactites. Excursions on Halong Bay became popular, drawing visitors from all over the colony. Within a decade, tourists were flocking in from overseas. And despite two world wars, the company Paul set up continued to operate until 1954 when the French were defeated at Dien Bien Phu. It was only in the 1990s that tourism returned to the bay. But the knowledge that this natural wonder could draw in the tourists had already been created almost a century earlier. A replica of the original Emeraude paddle steamer bought by Paul Roque sails the bay to this day.

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“The diary of a visitor in the early 1920s reads: ‘The Bay of Halong is certainly one of the most curious places which can exist.’

There’s little real difference between this quote, and a Tripadvisor review of nearly a century later — ‘Halong Bay is just out of this world, like nothing ever seen before’” Long’ — ‘descending dragon’ in English — is largely credited to a group of French sailors who reportedly witnessed a giant sea snake, or dragon, in the bay.

Over a multi-course dinner, the highlight of which was the seasoned fresh crab, I discuss the current tourism situation with Victor Seow, Asia Pacific representative for Tonkin Cruises. Victor, onboard to assist with on-the-job staff training, tells me how Tonkin Cruises tries to set itself apart — necessary in a market saturated with identical itineraries.

“Although tourism is increasing, the number of boats is becoming excessive and as competition gets stiff, the quality of service is the first to go,” he explains. “We’re very conscious of that at Tonkin. Which is why I’m on-board, to ensure that our service is always improving.”

The Marguerite Garden, one of four boats operated by the Hanoi-based company, specialises in one to three-night cruises to Halong and neighbouring Bai Tu Long Bay. With 10 well-appointed rooms, the ship is as luxurious as it was comfortable. Designed in the traditional ‘junk’ style, warm wooden interiors accented with modern furnishings create a welcoming ambiance for the ship’s 20 passengers. Windows cover two sides of my bright, spacious room — and, after a long day of exploring, I happily sink into the large, soft bed.

Tomorrow

Lying on the roof deck, watching the sun set across the water, it is easy to forget that thousands of other visitors are nearby. As the waiter serves ice-cold beer and the hills turn to shadows against the pink sky, I block out the other boats and hope the serenity of the bay will continue for visitors long into the future. As the backpackers and adventure seekers of the 1990s are replaced by the large tour groups of the present, it is impossible to

predict where the future of tourism lies for Halong Bay. Although the number of visitors shows no signs of slowing, increasing complaints of overcrowding and pollution are already impacting the integrity of tourism in the Bay. The next morning, following a sunrise session of tai chi, I kayak over to one of the many floating villages that call the bay home. Making our way past floating rubbish and oily water, the threat of pollution is all too visible. Nearby industrial development, close proximity to major shipping routes and an increasing number of tourists is threatening water quality and straining waste management.

Aiding in the effort to improve environmental standards is the recently launched Halong Bay Alliance, a group of NGOs working with the government and local stakeholders to strike a balance between sustainable economic development and effective environmental protection. The aim is not to reduce the number of tourists, but to sustainably manage their impact.

Improving environmental standards will ensure that the bay remains the special place it is for generations to come.

With the sun rising in the sky we cruise back to shore, the hills slowly receding behind us in the hazy afternoon heat.

“Vietnam is very lucky to have such a stunning landscape,” says our guide Tien, as we make our way back to the capital.

“But in the future I hope that everyone, from the local communities and visitors, to the tourism companies and government, will join together to protect the delicate environment of Halong Bay.” Katie travelled on the Marguerite Garden, courtesy of Tonkin Cruises. Their newest boat, the four-star, 11-room Garden Bay, was launched at the end of May. For more information visit tonkincruise.com

Photo by David Harris

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Making a Splash Rowing on West Lake is no longer the reserve of the national team. David Mann dons a life jacket and meets the Hanoi Kayak Club. Photo by Julie Vola

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F

loating in the middle of Hanoi’s West Lake is an eerie feeling. The water is flat, the city seems quiet and the horns of the morning rush are a distant echo. For a moment, the city’s seven million people are whittled down to only a handful of fishermen and a cluster of twoman canoes.

The morning I join the Hanoi Kayak Club for their Sunday paddle, the temperature is a balmy 25 degrees Celsius (and climbing). Around a dozen people have gathered at the rowing club — a mix of regulars and newcomers who have heard about the club via word-of-mouth.

“Most of us are Vietnamese but a growing amount of expats are coming along,” says Thuy Bot, who founded the club two years ago with his brother Trung.

After kayaking for the first time in Halong Bay, the two brothers set up the club to encourage more Hanoians to experience the sport. The club now has around 20 members, with more joining each month.

Eventually they hope the club will be big enough to put together teams to partake in competitions around the country.

“In March we did a group kayaking trip to Hai Phong and Cat Ba Island,” continues Thuy. “Our next trip will be to Quan Lan Island in Quang Ninh.”

The club welcomes paddlers of all levels of experience and while many of the club’s members join to try something new, Thuy says most have ended up as passionate about the sport as he is.

“Many get addicted to it the first time I take them out. It’s so fun and it’s so easy.”

That isn’t to say more experienced paddlers aren’t welcome either, with two of the club’s members even winning a national canoe race in Danang last month.

White Waters

Ben Eichhorn, who joined the club four months ago, says although West Lake is a far cry from the best Vietnam has to offer paddlers, it’s a good starting point for beginners.

“Some of the best streams in Vietnam are in Lao Cai Province — with great flat areas and some rapids for white water kayaking.

“But paddling here is still fun,” he adds.

“They’re such a friendly and welcoming group, and it’s a great opportunity to socialise and make new friends.”

The club is so welcoming that even curious bystanders are allowed to throw on a life jacket and test the waters for themselves. Hong Nguyen, who watched us paddle from the steps of Van Ho Street, says she was instantly converted to join after only a short five minutes on the lake.

“It was so easy and so much fun, I’m definitely going to come back again,” she says, peeling a life jacket off a black and white sundress.

The group gathers every Sunday morning for group paddles, with weekly announcements on the group’s Facebook page. Non-members can hire canoes at a rate of VND150,000 for the first hour and VND50,000 for each additional hour.

Alternatively, you can become a member for VND500,000 per month, with unlimited use of the kayaks between 6am and 8am and 5pm and 6pm, seven days a week.

For more information about Hanoi Kayak Club email kayakhanoi@gmail.com or go to kayakhanoi.com

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Ho Chi Minh City Hangouts

For the Seasick Want to join in on the boating fun but worried about getting sea legs?

I N H ANOI ...

You can watch the boats zip by at a lakeside pool! Try Thong Loi (200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho) for great West Lake views — but get there early on sunny days to snag a lounge chair. Or pretend your float is a boat while going for a ride around the lazy river or a swim in the wave pool at Ho Tay Water Park (Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho).

I N S AIGON ...

The sea theme reigns supreme at Ahoy Beer Club — a nautically-themed beer club, with servers in cute sailor stripes and little portholes looking out on District 1’s Nguyen Cong Tru (number 79), so that no matter how dizzy you get you’ll always know you’re on dry land.

I N N HA T RANG ...

Sprawling over 2,400sqm, The Sailing Club is the nexus of Nha Trang’s beach scene — and maybe the most noteworthy beach hangout in all of Vietnam, with big-name DJs, bikini fashion shows and fire twirlers all gracing its sands.

Swallowing the Anchor Boating is tough work, judging by Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi’s boatfriendly food and drink options. Words by Seamus Butler and Aimee Millwood, photos

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Classy Happy Hour The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2

Buzzing with after-dinner drinkers, warm river air billows past the outdoor seating area. Laughter and conversation float over slowly moving heaps of mangroves, out into the darkness and the silence. The Deck is located at the bend where Thao Dien juts out into the Saigon River. This upscale lunch and dinner space has dock-to-dock service from District 1.

Whether you’re looking for a romantic dinner for two, complete with champagne service on the boat, or jetting off with a large party of up to 30 for a midday corporate lunch, the speedy boat service will have you feeling nautical. For the rest of us, there are some of the best cocktails in town and morning yoga classes, framed by a wild chunk of river.

Graham Greene’s River Scene The Riverside Café 8 Ton Duc Thang, Q1

Cargo ships and colonial cannons line the Saigon riverbanks, just like they did in Graham Greene’s day. Outside the windows of the Riverside Café, the constant flow of motorbikes complements the motion of the river, and the classic French style of the Renaissance Riverside Hotel housing complements the aura. Like a porthole on a cruise ship, the café windows act as a portal

to the busy river and street traffic, without the seasickness. Grab a quick cup of joe or a lengthy western breakfast as you slink back in your comfy armchair. When dusk begins to fall, and the riverboats illuminate in green and orange blinking lights, sit down for an after-work cocktail and take in the reflection on the river.

Quiet Views The Boathouse

40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2 Speed on water is calculated in knots, a reference to the knotted rope dragged behind wooden ships. At The Boathouse though, no knotted rope contraption is needed as you’ll be relaxing at full stop. The expansive promenade area and ample seating is perfect for large groups wishing to take in the calm morning river over an expertly executed breakfast or for casual evening drinks with your favourite landlubber.

Though serviced by the same District 1 river shuttle as The Deck, the clientele is mostly local to District 2, which makes sense given its location in the gated-off An Phu Superior Compound complex. But they make up for the lack of boat traffic with chartered river cruises — the kind that aren’t too competitive with the floating chunks of rice paddy that course down the Saigon River.

Hanoi Hangouts

Looking to get shipwrecked?

Taboo Lounge and Bar 2 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho

The techno-and-pop-heavy club music blaring from the inside of this double-decker party boat rarely disturbs the peace of West Lake, so you probably won’t notice the floating bar if you haven’t been there before.

You can recognise Taboo amidst the other boats docked along this section of the lake by the large white curtains blocking off the inside party to public view.

While Taboo’s ambiance is typical of other

upscale Vietnamese nightlife locales catering to the bottle-loving crowd, after venturing aboard, clubs without lifejackets won’t seem so fun anymore. Taboo’s bartenders and waitresses are clad in sailoresque uniforms and serve up well-crafted drinks to fuel patrons as they move to a catchy mix of top hits spun by the onboard DJ. Get a spot near the stern for the best views of the tabletop dancers and lightshows.

Reel Her In Swan Boat and Lakeside Dinner What better way to spend a springtime day than on a lakeside date? Our perfect recipe for sailing away with your lover begins with a trip out on one of the quintessential swan boats docked in Hanoi.

Many lakes in Hanoi have a pack of these swan-shaped gondolas, so how do you choose where to take your date? Hoa Binh Lake offers the perfect setting for a quiet, intimate spin out on the water surrounded by views of the picturesque park, while West Lake’s expansive size makes it one of the most popular spots for swan-boaters — and

a good choice if you are going on a group or double date. If you still want to be in the centre of the action but want to escape the crowds of West Lake, move next door to Truc Bach.

After you spend the afternoon paddling around, we’re guessing you’ve worked up an appetite. Set off for a romantic evening dinner at one of the nearby floating restaurants. Potomac Restaurant and Bar (4 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho), is the only luxurycruise-turned-fine-dining restaurant, taking nighttime excursions across West Lake.

Bia Ahoy Nha Hang Bia Hoi Hai Dang 614 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho

The fishermen are Westlake icons — and the floating bia hoi joints on Lac Long Quan are just the type of place we imagine they’d frequent for their lunchtime fare. The two Nha Hang Bia Hoi boats docked near the Ho Tay Water Park aren’t your typical watering hole: the refurbished cargo ferries mix typical bia hoi cuisine with seafood in a quaint environment overlooking the lake.

Seafood dishes include mixed hot pots, snails, shrimp, and of course, fish. For those sea lovers who prefer not to eat their pescatarian friends, their fried chicken or morning glory dishes are both great options. Join in with the local clientele who flock here during packed lunch and dinner rushes for a hefty meal and calm views of West Lake.

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Arts

Ha Manh Thang Installation View

ARTS

A Decade on the Scene On the eve of its second decade, Saigon-based Galerie Quynh is still leading the way.

Words by Cristina Nualart. Photos provided by Galerie Quynh

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Nguyen Manh Hung Keep My Planet Clean

A

street sweeper pauses his broom in the middle of the night. From the shadows of the empty asphalt, he looks at two people sleeping in a glowing-red shop window. A ceiling of crimson roses and red velvet walls cradle the sleepers nested in vermillion satin. One night, 500 people gathered to see the softly lit red bed. How many of those just passing by would be surprised to hear that the sleeping beauties were making art?

The 12-night-long performance was the first street-view art exhibition of its kind in Vietnam. The artist Sue Hadju created Magma: we’re not counting sheep in 2006, and it remains one of the highlights of Galerie

Sandrine Llouquet Installation View

Quynh’s first decade of existence. The project is testament to the gallery’s mission: to bring innovative art to the Vietnamese public. “We didn’t get sponsorship, we had nothing for sale,” says Quynh Pham, the gallery founder.

“We wanted to support it. We never really thought about sales.”

Naturally, the event didn’t generate any revenue, but it did put Galerie Quynh on the international radar. Publications like Art In America and the London-based Contemporary magazine featured the show.

Getting famous international artists to come and show in Vietnam is about as easy as getting Madonna to sing at your wedding, yet as a result of the publicity, the gallery was

soon able to exhibit the work of renowned Japanese-American artist Bruce Yonemoto.

Worldwide, Galerie Quynh is still probably the best known — if not the only known — Vietnamese gallery. When art historian Quynh Pham left her job in a well-known museum in California to found the gallery — finally setting up in 2003 — Vietnam had very little in terms of an art scene.

Trailblazers In the 1990s, Salon Natasha and Nhasan Studio, two artist-run spaces in Hanoi, opened the doors to contemporary art in Vietnam. At the turn of the millenium, international backing provided more cultural

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“The aim is not just to sell, but to make contemporary art from Vietnam more visible to the general public” Nguyen Manh Hung Go To Market

Tiffany Chung Installation View

Collisions of Clamor and Calm Installation

spaces in Hanoi, such as the Göethe Institut, the Ford Foundation, Alliance Francaise’s L’Espace, the British Council and the Danish Cultural Development and Exchange Foundation. Private galleries started popping up on Vietnam’s high streets, but most were just shops that sold paintings. They were not galleries that worked with artists to develop their careers and raise public awareness of contemporary practices.

Many commercial painting shops remain, but a lot of the important galleries have now closed, such as Blue Space, Ryllega and Bui Gallery, while the renowned Art Vietnam gallery in Hanoi is now run from home by its owner Suzanne Lecht, with viewings only by

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appointment. Galerie Quynh has survived despite the difficulties, even opening a second gallery in 2013. It plans to open a third space shortly — a non-commercial, experimental venue in the Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts courtyard.

“We’ve been knocked down so many times, it [would be] easy to give up,” says Quynh. Disaster moments included the all-too-common situation of having to move location, for the second time, because after renovating the venue, the landlord wanted it back.

But grit, and plenty of hard work, can solve most problems. “We all know that success does not come overnight,” Hoang

Duong Cam, one of the gallery artists confirms. “Together we shed a lot of sweat and tears to get to where we are right now.”

Generating Culture When things seem hard, they usually get worse. The financial crisis slowed down global business, even in then-buzzing Vietnam. “2009, 2010 were very hard years for us,” Quynh says. Her clients, many of them westerners, mostly live outside of Vietnam. Most gallerists in Vietnam are working hard to develop a collector base among the local population, and Quynh is no exception in trying to build relationships with wealthy Vietnamese business people

“It’s not easy for a gallery to survive in a country where the majority of people don’t even think of looking at art, let alone buying it. ‘I would say for about eight years,’ Quynh recalls, ‘it was running like an art centre’” — who, for now, show little interest in art as a monetary and cultural investment.

It’s not easy for a gallery to survive in a country where the majority of people don’t even think of looking at art, let alone buying it. “I would say for about eight years,” Quynh recalls, “it was running like an art centre.” Not quite like a non-profit, but only just managing to sell enough to continue their programming and fund their exhibition catalogues. Galerie Quynh has printed over a dozen publications on their artists.

The biggest challenge happened recently.

Contemporary art takes many forms and mediums, and as any cinema-goer knows — screen size, quality and resolution change the viewing experience. Hanging an exhibition for Tiffany Chung, an artist of worldwide fame, led to near breakdown on all sides. Tiffany’s multichannel video art requires sophisticated technology.

“We don’t have the infrastructure here in Vietnam,” says Quynh. “In the future we will have to hire specialist people and bring in certain equipment.”

Technology is not the only obstacle.

Carpenters have been known to frame pictures upside down. Printers can run late with catalogue production, and Quynh has had to oversee completion until the early hours of the morning. “In Vietnam we always have lots of production issues.

Everything just takes time.”

One of the biggest challenges is in the details — art, serious art, must be of the best quality. “We don’t have archival materials in Vietnam, so we have to bring them over from the United States or elsewhere,” Quynh notes, somehow with no exasperation in her voice.

A Room of Vietnam’s Own Despite all this “we’ve never had a meltdown,” she smiles. “The key to our success is the relationship we have with our artists.” Passion for art is Galerie Quynh’s driving force. “I don’t have an MBA. I come from an art history, theoretical background,” which the artists respect. Instead of giving guidelines on how artists can make their work more saleable, Quynh critiques their work (very bluntly, she admits) and motivates them to push their ideas further.

“I really care about them as professional artists,” she says.

In turn, the gallery’s artists stood by even during the low points. Many international galleries are wary of taking on Vietnamese artists, because some sell their art behind

the gallery’s back after the gallery has invested heavily in promoting them. Quynh is proud to say that her gallery has only lost two artists in all of these years. “We’ve worked with 17 artists on different projects,” she says. The younger generation have built strong careers thanks to that partnership.

The invitation to the gallery’s walls isn’t open to all comers. The art has to resonate with her. As a curator, her career depends on making choices she can defend with heart and soul. “I do feel that we are the leading gallery in the nation,” Quynh says. “We have solid programming. We have vision.”

The aim is not just to sell, but to make contemporary art from Vietnam more visible to the general public. Galerie Quynh has endorsed events and artists’ talks, and worked with organisations such as A little blah blah (albb), Wonderful District, San Art, Zero Station and Dia Projects. International collaborations with various museums and artistic projects are significant. The gallery supported a fundraising event for Japan’s Red Cross, following the 2011 tsunami. From 2010 to 2012 Galerie Quynh was the first and only gallery from Vietnam invited to participate in the prestigious ART HK international art fair.

Galerie Quynh expanded in 2013, and now has two art spaces in Ho Chi Minh City.

But the future of the gallery doesn’t only take place within the walls of these spaces — or even within the space of Vietnam.

When Quynh thinks about the future, she’s thinking about the global conversation that she came to Vietnam to start. The next step? “We need to start a dialogue with museums.”

She’s doing just that. In the courtyard of the Museum of Fine Arts, her new space has just been renovated. Sao La, Galerie Quynh’s newest initiative, is not going to be a commercial space. There are plans for something a bit more experimental, like educational programmes and opportunities for emerging artists who may feel intimidated by the traditional route, which sees shows planned at least a year in advance.

One thing seems certain, failure will not be a deterrent to making it work.

“I’m really excited about our future,” glows Quynh — a future that has quite a precedent to work from.

Galerie Quynh is at 65 De Tham, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City and Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City

The Artists T HIERRY B ERNARD -G OTTELAND

French artist Thierry Bernard-Gotteland is quite blasé about exhibiting his artwork.

He works as a lecturer and would make the art anyway, he shrugs. Since his focus is on sound art, it costs him nothing to create it on his computer, and he doesn’t need a physical place to store it.

Yet he has chosen to work with Galerie Quynh because it keeps him in contact with other art professionals. It has also allowed him to expand his creative practice into, in his own words, more “traditional” materials. Leather sofas in chains and self-playing music machines may not be your idea of traditional art, but he assures us, with solid philosophic reasoning, that it is.

H OANG D UONG C AM

Any artist that titles his work Square Eggs and Things Under Shells is going to either fail instantly or ooze enough creativity for at least two lifetimes. Hoang Duong Cam, one of Vietnam’s most playful artists, began his career in Hanoi, where Square Eggs was projected at the Göethe Institut in 2001. 10 years later, at Galerie Quynh — which represents him since he moved to Saigon — Cam exhibited his favourite show to date.

Ideal Fall, shown in 2011, was a big challenge for him and the gallery.

Preparation took nearly three years. The work included activities such as throwing sculptures off rooftops and shredding worker’s uniforms to make a hanging, upside-down monument.

S ANDRINE L LOUQUET

Drawings of bandaged heads, fat cats, dead birds and evil sheep could mislead you into thinking that Stephen King has taken up art. Sandrine Llouquet’s works are disquieting renderings of human turmoil, with characters from childhood nightmares.

They are surprisingly captivating, though, because of the freshness of the line and watercolour strokes. Sandrine has worked with Galerie Quynh since moving to Vietnam in 2005. She has been very active with collaborative projects that have shaken up Ho Chi Minh City’s sleepy art world. She occasionally works as a VJ.

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insider

Th e World Cup Special

World Cups are entirely predictable, at least until the first game has finished, when people start looking at one another and asking questions. Questions like: Why does the ball always fly out of the stadium when someone kicks it? Where is Senegal?

Why did those Scottish players bundle the ball into their own net? How do you pronounce Schillaci?

So while we all know the bare facts about the 2014 World Cup, what will we be saying after the opening clash between Brazil and Croatia at 3am on Jun. 13? Will the tournament favour heavyweights (Hulk) or bantamweights (Luka Modric)? Will the Brazuca ball turn all goalkeepers into Massimo Taibi? What is the referees’ new crackdown du jour? What entertaining new sights and sounds can we expect from the caipirinha-fuelled crowds, or will inflated ticket prices leave the stadiums half empty?

From Alaba to Zaccheroni, from 1990 to 2022, Word looks at the highs and lows, and offers a guide to the must-sees and must-dos of Brazil 2014. Words by David Legard 88 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Must-see games

T

he trick of watching a football tournament, especially one played entirely at night, is to pace yourself in the early stages, so that you’re match-fit for the final. But it’s hard to miss the first game, after the big build-up, so Brazil vs. Croatia (3am, Fri. June 13) has to be on the list. Weekend games are always easier for working folk, so Spain vs.

Netherlands (2am, Sat. June 14) is another must.

England fans won’t want to miss the team’s opening bout with Italy (Sun. June 15, 5am), and if that match leaves them sobbing on the kitchen floor, there’s always the contrasting styles in Ivory Coast vs.

Japan to follow at 8am.

A decent sleep on Sunday night will have fans raring to go for Germany vs.

Portugal (Mon. June 16, 11pm), and there is a neat double-header of Australia vs.

Netherlands and Spain vs. Chile (Wed.

3am, Fri. June 13

2am, Sat. June 14

VS

Brazil

VSJapan

Ivory Coast

2am, Fri. June 20

VSUruguay

England

5am, Sun. June 15

VS

Croatia

8am, Sun. June 15

June 18, 11pm). England return against Uruguay (Fri. June 20, 2am) and the potentially crucial Switzerland France match starts the next weekend off (Sat. June 21, 2am). Then it’s off to work again on the back of USA vs. Portugal (Mon. June 23, 5am).

That takes us into the final round of group games, played simultaneously, with the stand-out game probably Italy against Uruguay (Tue. June 24, 11pm).

Spain

11pm, Mon. June 16

VSPortugal

Neth erlands

VS

England

11pm, Wed. June 18

VS

11pm, Wed. June 18

Germany

Australia Neth erlands

2am, Sat. June 21

5am, Mon. June 23

VSFrance

Switzerland

Usa

VSPortugal

Italy

Spain

VS Ch ile

11pm, Tue. June 24

Italy

VSUruguay

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 89

Dark H orses Belgium

Not truly dark horses, just piebald, perhaps, as there's recognised quality from front to back, starting with Atletico Madrid/Chelsea’s Thibaut Courtois in goal, Man City’s Vincent Kompany at the heart of defence, the mesmerising Eden Hazard in midfield and now, after deciding which of seven nations he wanted to represent, Man United’s

Japan

Plenty to like about this Japanese team, not least being the near-home support they can expect at each game, from the more than 2 million Brazilians of Japanese descent. Or even just Daniele Suzuki. Many of the big European clubs have a talented Japanese player among their ranks, and not just for the

replica kit sales. Man United’s Shinji Kagawa and AC Milan's Keisuke Honda are the best of the bunch, leading veteran coach Zaccheroni to build the team’s playing system around them.

As a measure of their quality, they beat Belgium 3-2 away in December last year. Also, their compact style should be suited to the South American conditions. Nobody is seriously suggesting they have the weight to go the whole way, but if they get the rub of the green early on, they could easily find themselves in a last 16 clash with England.

Ch ile

Only qualify as dark horses because of their group opponents (Spain and Netherlands) and because their squad, apart from Barcelona’s Alexis Sanchez, is largely unknown.

But this anonymous collection dismantled England at Wembley last year, under the near-mystic guidance of Andre Agassilookalike coach Jorge Sampaoli.

In qualification, they beat Uruguay at home and drew with Brazil away and in a recent friendly drew with the mighty Spain. Anything is possible for this team, but so is nothing, given the tough group.

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precocious striker Adnan Januzaj to partner Romelu Lukaku in attack.

They won their qualifying group by a dizzying 9 points, and with 17 squad members playing in the top four European leagues, the Red Devils have talent in depth and a young squad. Easily the best team in Group H on paper, they could be heading for a lively clash with Portugal in the last 16. Their problems? Lack of experience at the top level, perhaps, and being a European team in South America. But the pundits like their chances, rating them the 6th most likely team to lift the trophy.

Th e Downside

While most World Cups have been a festival of football and, ahem, a celebration of international comradeship, there have always been moments better forgotten 1990: Italy

If, as some critics noted of the World Cup Final, that it is the best that the world’s two best teams can produce, then we’d be better off playing buzkashi or Kinect Danceoff. The interminable drone of a match briefly came to light after 65 minutes when Argentina’s lumbering defender Pedro Monzon approached German striker Jürgen Klinsmann, who reacted as though he were a breakdancer being repeatedly tasered by a SWAT team. Millions of viewers were on the edge of their seats praying that the match wouldn’t go to extra time, and their entreaties were answered when the referee, on a whim, decided to award Germany a penalty in the last 10 minutes.

1994: USA

The scene was set early when Diego Maradona scored a goal and then celebrated in such a hyperactively oafish manner that a urine test was hardly needed to confirm the presence in his compacted frame of a cocktail of interesting stimulants.

The drug theme continued, with members of the Colombian entourage receiving death threats over team selection — the captain was shot dead back in Colombia, 11 days after scoring an own goal against the USA. Amazingly, the final produced even less goals than the one before, only to be decided when Roberto Baggio, aka the Divine Ponytail, summoned up all his inner composure and ballooned the vital penalty into the stands.

1998: France

Cardiac problems, poisoning, epileptic fits, upset stomachs, bad ankles and panic attacks. Any or all of these could have been the cause of the distress of Brazilian superstar Ronaldo on the morning of the final. After initially being left out of the team, he eventually played,

Kh oa Lee

though apparently so zonked he couldn’t remember whether he was supposed to be marking Zinedine Zidane or his own shadow. The Brazilians sank to an ignominious defeat, handing victory to the French, wildly celebrated by their mascot Jules, which resembled Donald Duck in a beret. On the bright side, the Golden Boot was won for the first time by a one-legged player, Croatia’s Davor Sukur.

2002: South Korea & Japan

Apart from leaving the grass on the pitches long enough to satisfy fussy herbivores, and allowing the tournament mascots to be chosen by diners at McDonald’s outlets, most people applauded the Asian nations’ organisational efforts. The players, however, proved not to be in full control of their anatomies, with Rivaldo clutching his face in agony after being struck on the knee, and his teammate Ronaldo sporting a patch of hair on his forehead which would have looked more appropriate inside his shorts.

2006: Germany

Concerned that the football was not proving entertaining enough, the referees decided to stage their own long-running comedy routine, rewarding divers with penalties instead of red cards, booking players three times in the same match before sending them off and being lenient on general thuggery to the point where criticisms began to be voiced. Russian referee Valentin Ivanov promptly decided to restore the average in the next match by sending off four players and issuing a total of 16 yellow cards, though inexplicably failing to give himself one.

2010: South Africa

Opinions are divided as to whether the

Vietnam AC Milan and Juventus Fan “Germany might win because they have experience and young power!”

vote should go to the Jabulani or the Vuvuzela. The choice depends on whether you are a visual or aural aesthete — whether the sight of yet another free-kick sailing into Row Z hurts more than the sound of a billion sheep being clumsily sheared on a nightly basis.

2014: Brazil

Among all the potential pitfalls, such as stadiums falling on the punters’ heads, a tacky opening ceremony or the Pope turning up in an Argentina shirt, our vote goes to goal-line technology being used for the first time. Calling technology ‘infallible’ is the surest possible prelude to disaster, and who’s to say some 11-yearold Bulgarian geek won’t hack into the ball and start awarding goals at random?

2018: Russia

Sepp Blatter and Michel Platini, FIFA’s answer to Cheech & Chong, have hatched plans to expand the finals competition to a wearying 40 teams, which means that the whole thing will take longer than Napoleon’s retreat from Moscow. The rationale, if such it could be called, is to allow in more teams from the developing (i.e. non-European) countries, who will show their gratitude by, er, voting for ’Blattini’ to stay in the job.

2022: Qatar

FIFA’s got itself into a jam here, caused by its instinctive habit of pandering to the extremely rich, as long as they know nothing about football. It turns out the Qataris are not as rich as FIFA thought, and will not be air-conditioning the entire country, meaning that players will have to endure game-time temperatures of over 40 degrees Celsius or play at the dead of night. If not, Qatar will have to build underground stadiums.

Fitzgerald Andreani

France Football Coach “Brazil can win but in football, there are sometimes big surprises.”

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Amazon

Th e A t o Z of

The one place that England boss Roy Hodgson wanted to avoid, and thus the venue — the city of Manaus — chosen by the football gods for the team’s first group match against Italy. To add to its charm, the mayor of Manaus has said that Hodgson is not welcome in the city after his disparaging comments about the suitability of its climate for playing football.

Brazuca

The ball, designed by computer, built by robots, automatically bonded and welded, and the most high-tech and best tested ball in the history of organised sport.

Curitiba

The coolest of the Brazilian cities, climate-wise, where the temperatures could even slip below freezing during the tournament, which should suit Russia if they need a result against Algeria

everyone at their own Quito mountaintop retreat in qualifying.

Fuleco

Resembling an anteater in need of a course of Botox, Fuleco is the mascot for the 2014 tournament, continuing a sad tradition that dates back to World Cup Willie, who at least won the cup for England in 1966.

Goalkeepers

It would seem to be England’s best tactic is to go around treading heavily on every goalkeeper they can find in the Premier League, since almost one quarter of the first-choice stoppers going to Brazil ply their trade in England or have links there. On the hit-list could have been Amir Begovic (Stoke & Bosnia), Simon Mignolet (Liverpool & Belgium), Michael Vorm (Swansea & Netherlands), Tim Krul (Newcastle & Netherlands), Hugo Lloris (Spurs & France),

in their final group game. The city’s Arena de Baixada also features the most shambolic renovation of all the Brazilian stadiums. A considerable achievement.

Julio Cesar (Brazil & QPR), with reportedly still an outside chance for Mark Schwarzer (Chelsea & Australia).

Draw

The current England manager has never coached in Mongolia or Gabon, but few other places have escaped his peripatetic career. His hangdog expression exudes failure, which is why his results are always better than expected. He’s got his work cut out this time, though. England are in the Group of — not Death, perhaps — but the Group of Serious Injury, with an unexceptional team whose one major figure, Wayne Rooney, has never performed well on the big stage, and an army of supporters who always think the team is better than it is.

The old belief that to win the World Cup, you have to beat the world’s best is only partially true. Some have it better than others. This year’s lucky spot goes to Argentina, whose passage to the semi-finals sees only France in their way as a serious obstacle. Germany, too, has a fairly straightforward path, if it can overcome two tropical lunchtime starts in the group phase.

Estadio Nacional, Brasilia

In contrast to the Amazonian heat, this 68,000-seater stadium is almost 1,200 metres above sea-level, and could provide some comfort for teams who like playing at altitude.

Good news for Ecuador, who drubbed almost

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H odgson

Ipanema

It should be the epitome of Brazilian beach cool, but is now home to burning tyre

barricades and Molotov cocktails thrown by the angry residents of a nearby favela slum, who have been roaming the area frightening the locals out of their tan-through microkinis.

The security situation is one of the things that could go seriously wrong with the World Cup.

Jonas Eriksson

Multi-millionaire players are the rule, but Eriksson is an exception as a multi-millionaire referee after a canny investment in the media businesses. A FIFA international ref. for 12 years, the 40-year-old Swede is not everyone’s cup of tea — Rangers fans still remember him for denying them a penalty in the 2009 Champions League, while Manchester City coach Manuel Pellegrini had even stronger, even actionable, words to say about him earlier this year.

Killing Tiki-Taka

Footballing styles, like kick and rush, catenaccio

or totaalvoetbal, come and go. And so will tiki-taka, the successful style that has been in vogue in Spain, and particularly at Barcelona.

Countering it involves watching the tiki-taka team tap the ball around, steal it off them and then race up field en masse, like a betterdressed version of Mel Gibson’s Bravehearts.

Lack of goals

The number of goals scored in World Cups has dropped steadily from 1998 (171 goals), to 2002 (161), 2006 (147) and finally 2010, when just 145 goals were scored with the miserable Jabulani beach ball, many of them accidental. Combined with the late kick-off times, best to pick the right matches to watch. Apart from those with national allegiances, South Korea v Algeria at 2am looms as a poor return on investment.

Muslera, Fernando

Among the impressive array of goalkeepers

t h e World Cup on show, Uruguay’s highly rated stopper has a penchant for saving important penalties, and is affectionately known by the Lazio fans as castorino (“the little beaver”) for his high-action style. And for his habit of gnawing the goalposts when the ball’s up the other end.

Nigh tmare

Runners-up in 2010, the Dutch, could hardly have thought that their next encounter at the World Cup finals would be against their ultimate conquerors Spain, in the 80 percent humidity and tropical heat of Salvador. Assuming they get through the group as runners-up, they will meet the winners of Group A, which is almost certain to be — Brazil.

Olympics

Fast rewind to 2008 and the Beijing Games, where many of the players who will turn out

for their national teams in Brazil 2014 were cutting their teeth in top-level competition.

Argentina won gold, Nigeria silver, with Brazil and Belgium making the semi-finals.

Postecoglu

The man with the worst job at the World Cup, perhaps excepting the fellow tasked with stopping punters entering the Maracana without tickets. ‘Big Ange’ is the new coach of Australia in the Group of Annihilation. With Spain and Holland coming up, if anyone can get the Socceroos a point, or even a goal, it’s Big Ange.

Queiroz

Another of the young Portuguese managers, but with an apprenticeship with Sir Alex Ferguson under his belt, Carlos has the difficult task of making something of a patently outclassed Iran squad. They’re gluttons for punishment, this group of

managers — compatriot Andres Villas-Boas spent time as coach of the British Virgin Islands. No wonder he got over a season at Tottenham.

Ronaldo, Cristiano

have a tympanic device called the caxirola, resembling a couple of half coconuts that can be bashed together to annoy everyone.

To widespread relief, a stadium ban on these devices is being considered.

There is no better time for the Portuguese captain to make his mark on football history.

Four years ago in South Africa, he was Man of the Match in all Portugal’s group games, but was well shackled in their last-16 defeat by Spain. Their opening match will be key — the opponents are Germany. But it’s a lunchtime kick-off in Salvador, with the prospect of 80 percent humidity and temperatures around 26 degrees Celsius, which shouldn’t worry the boy from Madeira.

Weath er

Sh ootouts

Xabi Alonso

suppose this time will be any different. Some teams do them well (Germany), others do them badly (Portugal) and still others would do better to give in straight away to avoid embarrassment (England).

Sociedad, Alonso has won two European Championships and one World Cup with Spain, the UEFA Champions League, the UEFA Super Cup, the FA Cup, La Liga, the Copa del Rey and numerous personal awards.

There has been a steady average of three penalty shootouts in World Cups over the past 20 years, and there is no reason to

Twitter

Although Twitter was around in 2010, this will be the first World Cup where more than half of the players have live accounts.

Uruguay

A strike force of Luis Suarez and Edson Cavani, a manager of 25 years’ tenure nicknamed El Maestro, playing next door to home and Costa Rica first up. Who stands in their way of a run at least matching their 2010 semi-final achievement? Answer: England, their second group opponent.

Vuvuzela

Let’s hope not. Unfortunately the Brazilians

The last time the World Cup was staged in Brazil, in 1950, all the matches were played in Rio and Sao Paulo, temperate cities during the Southern Hemisphere winter. This year, the competition is played equally in the tropical north — Manaus, Salvador, Fortaleza, Natal. European teams traditionally fare badly in such conditions, and so Italy must be rueing the fact that their three group games are all in the tropics.

Few players have won more trophies than the 32-year-old Spaniard. Since being discovered by John Toshack at Real

Yaya

And Kolo. And Didier. And Solomon Kalou.

With global talent like this at Ivory Coast’s disposal, why are the pundits so down on Les Éléphants? In both 2006 and 2010 they were drawn in the Group of Death and failed to progress. Not this time, though.

Zac Japan

Japanese football is slowly approaching the big time, and has perhaps its best team ever on show. But a key element is veteran Italian coach Albert Zaccheroni whose innovative and successful 4-2-3-1 layout has been given the name Zac Japan.

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Brazil

Mexico

Cameroon

Spain

Net h erlands

Croatia

Ch ile

Aust ralia

Brazil are already looking towards a last 16 clash with Spain or the Netherlands, and with Cameroon merely a shadow of their former selves, the back-up spot should be decided by a final-day shootout in Recife between a Croatia team which recently lost at home to Scotland, and a Mexico outfit which needed to win a play-off against New Zealand to qualify. It’s likely to rain, which could favour the Europeans.

Qualifiers: Brazil, Croatia

Never before have the finalists at the previous World Cup been grouped together in the next tournament, which bodes poorly for the other two teams in the group.

Chile are no mugs, though, and their innovative 3-1-3-3 system proved altogether too much for England in last year’s Wembley friendly. If the Netherlands have adopted their well-known implosion mentality, the last group game could be an intriguing clash. Australia, though technically outclassed, are bound to be spirited and combative, especially when facing Spain’s irritating tiki-taka style.

Qualifiers: Spain, Chile

Groups Colombia

Greece

Uruguay

Costa Rica

Ivory Coast

Japan

England

Italy

A football festival all its own, with teams ranging from the dourly physical (Greece) to the intermittently potent (Ivory Coast), the all-round talented (Colombia) and the neatly organisational (Japan).

Greece, who limped into the finals having only scored 12 goals in 10 qualifying games, would seem to be least suited to the conditions, with an ageing squad facing humid tropical conditions for two of their three group games. The opening clash in rainy Recife between The Elephants and The Samurai could be telling.

Qualifiers: Colombia, Japan

Carles Noales

Spain Barcelona fan “If I had to bet, I would pick Brazil. They will play at home and are a strong young team.”

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A curly conundrum of a group with the only certainty being that Costa Rica will not be featuring in the next round. Even the professional pundits can’t separate the three remaining teams — Italy, Uruguay and England — and it may be that the shape and form of the group will be settled in the first match, when Italy meet England on a steamy, bug-infested night in the middle of the Amazon. The winner can start planning for the knock-out stage, and the loser can begin booking flights home and concocting excuses.

A draw, and the imperative of blootering as many goals past Costa Rica comes into play, in case everyone draws with everyone else.

Qualifiers: England, Uruguay

Tomas Werner

Germany IT company CEO “I think Brazil, then Germany, but USA has also a very strong team, too. So let’s see!”

Switzerland

France

Ecuador

H onduras

France were truly awful in the last World Cup, under Mystic Raymond, and even with much the same squad, look rather better under the pragmatic Laurent Blanc. They are further buoyed by a clear passage to the last eight if they top the group, and the presence in the group of Honduras, who have never won a finals match. Switzerland and Ecuador are scheduled to battle for the runners-up spot and a last 16 clash with Argentina.

Qualifiers: France, Ecuador

Germany

Gh ana

Portugal

USA

The USA’s quest may be another victim of the Amazonian heat — if they can’t get anything from their Manaus clash with Portugal, then they are staring down the barrel, given that their third game is against Germany. Ghana make up the group, but even their freescoring attack and impressive showing in 2010 hasn’t impressed the pundits at all.

Qualifiers: Germany, Portugal

Argentina

Bosnia

Iran

Nigeria

Beating the Maldives 1-0 is poor preparation for taking on Lionel Messi and his Argentina powerhouse, and it seems likely that Iran will go home empty-handed from this group. Thus the runner-up spot will be up for grabs between the chaotic casserole of power, talent and disorganisation that is Nigeria, and a Bosnia side that is new to the finals but has talent from back to front.

Qualifiers: Argentina, Nigeria

Belgium

Russia

Algeria

South Korea

Belgium will win this group comfortably, if matches are decided by hairstyle alone. They should have qualified by the time they play their final group game against South Korea, a team so poorly coiffed it suggests that each player is shortly to return to the Army reserve.

Also in the group are Russia, whose haircuts are a monument to the suppression of private enterprise, and Algeria, who did the only thing possible after losing a qualifier in a place called Ouagadougou, and shaved their heads.

Qualifiers: Belgium, Russia

Wildcards

W

hen the UN pressures FIFA to throw Russia out of the tournament, there are various options for replacing them. The obvious ones include inviting Sweden, as the next nearest European team to qualifying or Ukraine, just to bolster FIFA’s democratic credentials.

We think it would be more interesting to make up a scratch team from players whose countries failed to qualify. How would they do? Look at the line-up: Goalkeeper: Petr Cech (Chelsea & Czech Republic) Defence: Ivanovic (Chelsea & Serbia); Subotic (Borussia Dortmund & Serbia);

Agger (Liverpool & Denmark); Alaba (Bayern Munich & Austria) Midfield: Eriksen (Spurs & Denmark); Jovetic (Man City & Montenegro); Mkhitaryan (Borussia Dortmund & Armenia) Attack: Bale (Real Madrid & Wales); Ibrahimovic (PSG & Sweden); Lewandowsky (Borussia Dortmund & Poland)

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Brazil

Cameroon

Mexico

Croatia

Spain

Net h erlands

Ch ile

Aust ralia

1

Fri. June 13

3am

Brazil vs Croatia

3

Sat. June 14

3am

2

Fri. June 13

11pm

Mexico vs Cameroon

4

Sat. June 14

5am

Ch ile vs Australia

17

Wed. June 18

2am

Brazil vs Mexico

19

Th u. June 19

5am

Spain vs Ch ile

18

Th u. June 19

2am

Cameroon vs Croatia

20

Wed. June 18

11pm

Australia vs Net h erlands

33

Tue. June 24

3am

Cameroon vs Brazil

35

Mon. June 23

11pm

Australia vs Spain

34

Tue. June 24

3am

Croatia vs Mexico

36

Mon. June 23

11pm

Net h erlands vs Ch ile

Colombia

Greece

5

Sat. June 14

11pm

Colombia vs Greece

7

Sun. June 15

2am

Uruguay vs Costa Rica

6

Sun. June 15

5am

Ivory Coast vs Japan

8

Sun. June 15

5am

England vs Italy

21

Th u. June 19

11pm

Colombia vs Ivory Coast

23

Fri. June 20

2am

Uruguay vs England

22

Fri. June 20

5am

Japan vs Greece

24

Fri. June 20

11pm

Italy vs Costa Rica

37

Wed. June 25

3am

Japan vs Colombia

39

Tue. June 24

11pm

Italy vs Uruguay

38

Wed. June 25

3am

Greece vs Ivory Coast

40

Tue. June 24

11pm

Costa Rica vs England

japan

Ivory Coast

Costa Rica

Uruguay

Spain vs Net h erlands

England

Italy

Match Sch edule Switzerland

Ecuador

France

H onduras

Bosnia

Argentina

Iran

Nigeria

9

Sun. June 15

11pm

Switzerland vs Ecuador

11

Mon. June 16

5am

Argentina vs Bosnia

10

Mon. June 16

2am

France vs H onduras

12

Tue. June 17

2am

Iran vs Nigeria

25

Sat. June 21

2am

Switzerland vs France

27

Sat. June 21

11pm

Argentina vs Iran

26

Sat. June 21

5am

H onduras vs Ecuador

28

Sun. June 22

5am

Nigeria vs Bosnia

41

Th u. June 26

3am

H onduras vs Switzerland

43

Wed. June 25

11pm

Nigeria vs Argentina

42

Th u. June 26

3am

Ecuador vs France

44

Wed. June 25

11pm

Bosnia vs Iran

Germany

Portugal

Gh ana

USA

Belgium

Algeria

Russia

South Korea

13

Mon. June 16

11pm

Germany vs Portugal

15

Tue. June 17

11pm

Belgium vs Algeria

14

Tue. June 17

5am

Gh ana vs USA

16

Wed. June 18

5am

Russia vs South Korea

29

Sun. June 22

2am

Germany vs Gh ana

31

Sun. June 22

11pm

Belgium vs Russia

30

Mon. June 23

5am

USA vs Portugal

32

Mon. June 23

2am

South Korea vs Algeria

45

Th u. June 26

11pm

USA vs Germany

47

Fri. June 27

3am

South Korea vs Belgium

46

Th u. June 26

11pm

Portugal vs Gh ana

48

Fri. June 27

3am

Algeria vs Russia

H iep Ph an

Vietnam Consultant “Brazil always has a very good team and this World Cup will be held in their home. Under the leadership of Philipe Scolari, I believe they will make it this time.”

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Daniel H opkins

Australia Vietnam Swan Aussie Rules Football Club “I think Brazil will win the World Cup because I can’t go against the home country fairy tale.”

Lee Dunton

Rich ard Carrington

UK Joint owner of Vinyl Bar “My favourite to win is Brazil.

However, I can’t rule out the Italians and the Germans. If I was an outside better I would put my money on Mexico or Argentina.

However, being patriotic, England may have a chance if they can get out of the qualifying stages.”

UK Arsenal fan “France will win. They’re the dark horse, they’ve got a very good squad, there is no pressure on them and they’ve dropped one of their best players — Sami Nasri — who would have caused problems in the squad. Brazil are under too much pressure.”

Round of 16

Quarters

Semis

Final

Semis

Quarters

Game 49 Sat. June 28 11pm

Round of 16 Game 51 Sun. June 29 11pm

1 A VS 2 B

Game 57 Sat. July 5 3am

Game 59 Sun. July 6 3am

1 B VS 2 A

Game 50 Sun. June 29 3am

W.49 VS W.50

W.51 VS W.52

Game 52 Mon. June 30 3am

1 C VS 2 D

Game 61 Wed. July 9 3am

W.57 VS W.58

Game 53 Mon. June 30 11pm

1 E VS 2 F

Game 58 Fri. July 4 11pm

Game 54 Tue. July 1 3am

W.53 VS W.54

1 D VS 2 C

Game 62 Th u. July 10 3am Game 64 Mon. July 14 3am

W.59 VS W.60

W.61 VS W.62

Game 55 Tue. July 1 11pm Game 60 Sun. July 5 11pm

1 F VS 2 E

W.55 VS W.56

Game 56 Wed. July 2 3am

Game 63 Sun. July 13 3am

1 G VS 2 H

1 H VS 2 G

L.61 VS L.62

Daragh H alpin Debajit Banerjee

India Advertising Executive “Which World Cup?”

Ireland Puku Café & Sports Bar “It’s got to be Bosnia and Herzegovina. They’ll have 22 players on the field while all the other countries will only have 11.”

Wh ere to Watch th e Games

W

hen it comes to the actual event, we have no idea who will be showing all the matches. After all, who wants to watch England play out a bore scoreless draw with Italy at 5am?

But here is our guess. Some of these venues have confirmed with an almighty

yes. Some of them have, well, not answered our calls.

H o Ch i Minh City

Game On; The Orient; Phatty’s Bar; Spotted Cow; Drunken Duck; Voodoo Bar & Lounge

In H anoi

Puku Café & Sports Bar; Finnegan’s Irish Pub; JJ’s Sports Bar; House of Son Tinh; Polite Pub; Jaspa’s

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History

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THE VILLAGE

Nha Xa

T

Silk and colonial houses. Nha Xa in Ha Nam is as unique as it is charming.

Words by Hoa Le. Photos by Julie Vola

here are two things you will find in Nha Xa in Ha Nam Province that you won’t find in neighbouring villages in the Red River Delta. The first is obvious as you enter the village. It’s the repetitive sound of old table looms working away in almost all the houses of the village.

Sometimes this heartbeat-like noise feels very close; sometimes it feels far away. Altogether it creates a swirling, captivating effect that once you leave the village, you won’t hear elsewhere. Locals say that this is the only village in the area where people weave silk to earn a living. For well over two centuries, this has been the main income source in Nha Xa. The second thing Nha Xa has to offer is something you will need to take time to

discover. Hidden in the middle of the now many modern and tall concrete houses are old, beautiful, colonial era houses. These hundred-year-old structures were built by descendants of the villagers who live in Nha Xa today.

Despite being covered with black moss and sporting a balcony in disrepair, Tiep’s house, built in 1930 by his grandfather, a silk merchant, has defied not only time but war and the harshness of the climate. The twostorey house has a flat roof with a swan-neck pediment on the top, a balustrade, rusticated pilasters and symmetrical architecture decorated with low relief garlands. It looks similar to many houses built in 1930s Hanoi, except that it’s in the countryside

— surrounding the house are banana plants, a big longan tree in the front yard and a pond.

A Wealthy Past Taking out the original architectural plans of the house, Tiep explains how the building came to shape.

“First, my grandfather went to an architectural workshop in Nam Dinh [a major city nearby the village]. There, he was shown many drawings of houses, all with French colonial designs — this was the choice of the time. Then he picked the style that he liked. Someone copied the drawing using a transparent piece of tracing paper. After that he brought workers home and had them build the house as in the design.”

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The aged piece of tracing paper has a drawing of the house’s front façade, the ratios and a cross section. In the bottom are written some words in French — Nam Dinh City, Jan. 7, 1930.

According to Tiep, his grandfather was a diligent merchant who travelled everywhere selling silk products — most of them made by his grandmother and other relatives at home. When asked if his house was among the wealthiest in the village, the 67-year-old shakes his head — many other families in the village became wealthy from trading silk.

As we walk around the village and spot many beautiful old French-style houses, we know that he isn’t just being modest.

Village legend goes that during the Tran dynasty, a very talented general — Tran Khanh Du — discovered a piece of prosperous land on the banks of the Red River. This is now Nha Xa Village. He thought it would be a great place to grow mulberry and so taught the native residents there to raise silkworms and feed them with mulberry leaves to eventually make silk. Later the villagers learned to weave. Some of the smart

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people picked up the technique quickly and started travelling from north to south to sell silk. This enabled them to both earn and save money, and enjoy a good quality of life.

Today’s owner of another French colonial house — 78-year-old Oa — tells us that her grandfather also went to Saigon to sell silk goods. He only came home once a year.

“He worked very hard and didn’t come home often. Only during Tet,” she recalls.

“Silk was as precious as gold and he was able to save money to send home.”

According to Oa, her house was built by a French architect hired by her grandfather in 1939.

Keeping the Legacy Each colonial house in the village comes with a story, not of just how it was built, but how it survived through both the French and American wars.

According to Oa, during the French War, many houses were burnt down by foreign troops. It is a mystery that her house wasn’t one of them.

“All of my family evacuated before they

came to the village,” she recalls. “When I came back in 1954 it was still there — although all the furniture had been taken away and the house was completely empty.”

In Tiep’s case, the family didn’t evacuate but stayed the whole time in the village.

But in order to keep the house from being burnt or destroyed by military troops, his grandparents had an idea. They took apart all the doors in the house and threw them into the pond in the front yard. “As the doors were all made from wood, they sunk quickly in the water,” says Tiep. “When the soldiers came, they saw a house with no doors. This meant we were not hiding anything inside. So they just left.”

Today both Oa and Tiep’s children and grandchildren weave silk and trade silk products. Many have now built their own houses — new, modern houses nearby the old ones. Some have even travelled to Thailand, Laos or Cambodia to look for new markets. Despite all the years that have gone by, the sound of the weaving looms in Nha Xa has never stopped.

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LEISURE

I H2H: Measuring the Gains CYCLING FOR CHARITY

Cycling from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City is more than a physical journey, but eventually the bodies of the 19 riders on this year’s H2H Charity Ride began to tell their stories, in ways both humorous and tragic.

Words by Ed Weinberg. Photos by David Harris and Francis Xavier 102 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com

t started as a joke, with a rider from last year’s H2H Charity Ride describing her thighs transitioning from crosscountry class to slappy, fat things. “I’d walk into a room and you’d just hear them making this thick sound,” Emma said / I paraphrased. “They blew up to twice their size with six hours of cycling a day, then just turned to pudding.”

Inspired by easy metaphors, Word decided to do some before-and-after measures of this year’s riders, with a highly unscientific yet hilarious method.

Afterwards we met up with trip leader — and leading thigh-girth burner, to the tune of 3cm — Andrea Towne, to talk about the 2,000km H2H covered between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, and the emotional truths behind their legs of steel. And then the story got less silly, and we got into that too.

Who’s the Firmest?

“I hate to say — Paul [Cordier],” Andrea says. “But Paul’s really in shape for all of this stuff. Danny Walsh had really good calves.

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“A ride like this is a feat of strength and willpower, but it’s also a month-long trip around Vietnam with your new best friends. Not all of that added girth is muscle” He has a small frame, but really good calves.

Collette [Auger]? Really nice calves.

“I don’t know what the measurements are, if people’s legs got bigger. But we were standing around touching people’s bums and seeing who’s the most firm.”

A ride like this is a feat of strength and willpower, but it’s also a month-long trip around Vietnam with your new best friends.

Not all of that added girth is muscle.

“A lot of people gained weight last year,” Andrea says. “And that was kind of my goal this year, not to gain weight. A lot of the food on the ride — people aren’t sensible when they just eat a ton of carbs... you’re hungry [after a day’s ride] so you eat that.

“I tried to have a diet of vegetables post any ride if I had any carbs in the morning, so that helped me not gain weight — and this year it seemed like most of the riders stayed the same [weight]. It’s bizarre, I don’t understand it. We drank a little more than last year.”

It was like that through the first four days of the ride, pretty much like last year’s edition. And, with people well on their way to cartoonishly sculpted thighs,

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tragedy struck and almost derailed the whole endeavour.

The Long Cut The road from Tin Gia to Do Luong isn’t the best. It’s narrow and gravel-strewn, and too far off the coast for the sea breeze to cut through the unremitting heat. And it was the scene of the low point of the 2014 H2H Ride.

Andrea was in the front of the pack when she got the phone call — a truck had hit a rider. She doubled back to see Becky Chmiel on the ground, and blood everywhere.

“It’s really hard for me to put together,” Andrea says. “I saw the wound, and basically from her ankle to mid-calf, all I saw was bone.

The flesh was ripped off and her calf was hanging off... it looked like a knife serrated it off.

“I think the tire grabbed her leg and like pulled her somehow... According to her, the truck ran over her ankle and then had to back up over it to get off of it.”

Becky, Andrea and a few others first went to a smaller hospital, then to the provincial hospital, which couldn’t help either. They took an ambulance ride up to Hanoi, while the rest of the crew waited in the small seaside town it had started the day in. It was a long, solemn two days, waiting for a phone call.

“They called it purgatory,” Andrea says.

“When they were waiting for us in Hanoi, they were in purgatory. It was an abandoned beach town, a resort beach town with nobody there. And it was cloudy and rainy, and they had to wait for us and wait for an answer.”

When Becky finally stabilised — even getting on a stationary bicycle in her Hanoi hospital’s exercise room — Andrea finally made that call, after the Tan Gia contingent had made up their minds to continue on.

“They worked together so well and got everything done and were so happy for that phone call.” Becky was happy they were going on as well.

“Oh, it felt so good to be reunited,” Andrea recalls. “It felt like forever.”

Downhill from There “It took about a week,” Andrea says. “Each truck horn felt like a knife in my back. It was so scary, hearing the sounds of trucks,

hearing them thump by you.”

The biggest challenge on a ride like this isn’t the ride itself — it’s how your mind handles the long days, the hot sun, not thinking about the 50km between you and the bed you will sleep in. Becky’s ordeal helped with that, immensely.

“How it impacted our team,” Andrea says, “was that no one was having as bad a day as Becky was. When you think of physical issues, like a really long mountain or a really hot day, it kind of puts it into perspective.”

Towards the end of the ride, the riders’ perspectives shifted. They began to feel less challenged and more confident in taking on whatever the day would bring.

“You definitely get stronger cycling every day,” Andrea says. “That’s one physical thing that you definitely notice. You know, by the end of the ride we’re like, ‘Oh, 80k?

Piece of piss.’

“You surprise yourself with how far you can go, or how high you can climb.”

And these rock-hard thighs and calves?

Andrea wants to keep them toned. “I have to keep running and doing triathlons if I want to maintain them. I have to do something or they’re just going to fade away!”

H2H Charity Ride runs yearly in April.

This year, they raised an unfinalised tally of VND720 million for Saigon Children's Charity. For more information, go to h2hcharityride.org

A Before and After Guide to the Thighs and Calves of the H2H Cyclists Rider

[Before] Thighs/Calves

[After] Thighs/Calves

Caitlin Boylan Paul Cordier Danny McCance Andrew Onishi Alex Spalding Matt Taylor Andrea Towne

48cm / 33cm 48cm / 37cm 55cm / 37cm 48cm / 35cm 52cm / 33cm 54cm / 38cm 54cm / 38cm

51.5cm / 33.5cm 55cm / 46cm 57cm / 37.5cm 55.5cm / 37cm 51cm / 33cm 55cm / 38.5cm 51cm / 39cm

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Arts

ARTS

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Since the closure of Zone 9, the arts collective Workroom Four has been searching for a new space. Now it has one, with views to match.

Words by Katie Jacobs. Photos by David Harris

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unlight is streaming through the whitewashed room as five people huddle around worktables; swaths of fabric, computers and a large cookie jar scattered between them. I’ve arrived at the new Workroom Four studios just in time to experience the Wednesday afternoon screen printing class led by Claire Driscoll, one of the four founders of the arts-based collective. Screen printing, one of the many creative classes on offer at the studio, is part talent and creativity and part patience.

“There are lots of steps,” says Claire. “But by the end of the workshop the students will be able to create their own fabric designs.”

Since moving to their new digs in early May, business at Workroom Four has never been better. Offering a number of arts classes, the space also rents out studios.

“Some people use the skills for their career, some to express themselves creatively and others are just bored and want to try something new,” says Claire. One of the students, a freelance interior designer, hopes screen printing will improve her work. “I have trouble finding interesting fabrics,” explains Mileydy. “So I’ve enrolled in this class to learn how to make my own.”

The Concept The Workroom Four seed was planted when Claire’s partner, graphic designer and international school teacher Dorian Gibb, decided he needed a studio space of his own. As the search commenced, Claire and Dorian quickly discovered that they weren’t the only ones in the market for a studio. So when the opportunity came to move into a large space in the new nightlife, fashion, art and culture hub of Zone 9, they jumped at the chance.

By opening day in June 2013, Workroom Four had evolved into a collaborative project of like-minded creatives, establishing private work studios and classroom space for workshops as well as a central gallery to host exhibitions.

“The space at Zone 9 really dictated the concept,” says Claire. “We didn’t plan for Workroom Four. It just developed that way.”

But with the closing of Zone 9 late last year, the Workroom Four partners were forced to find a new home for their growing business concept which successfully balanced their own work and the creative workshops.

Determined to keep the project alive, the team continued to work and teach from home while they went in search of a new space. They also temporarily moved into shared quarters at Module 7 on Tay Ho. “We wanted to keep going,” says Claire. “The classes in particular were growing so quickly that we didn’t want to stop.”

Today, the studios in Workroom Four are the creative home of nine people who work on projects from architecture and furniture design to media and textiles. The new location is entirely different from the Zone 9 space. Located just off An Duong Vuong in Tay Ho, the space sits in a sun-filled 23rdfloor loft with panoramic views across the neighbouring rooftops to the banks of the Red River.

As the creative workshops become increasingly popular and new contributors offer their services, the class schedule continues to change and expand. In addition to the Workroom Four residents, five other professionals contribute to the six-week workshops in areas such as pattern making, life drawing, photography and street art.

Michaela, who previously took a fashion

design course led by Claire, is now learning screen printing with the hope of designing her own fabric. “My goal is to eliminate Zara and H&M from my wardrobe,” she says.

The Future As the Workroom Four team settles into its new home, aspirations for the future continue to mount. Although partners continue to work on individual design and education projects, joint plans for future workshops and exhibitions are also taking shape. One of the main goals is to offer more classes in Vietnamese.

“Accessibility is important,” explains Claire. “Although the classes are evenly split between Vietnamese and foreign students, we’re hoping to be completely dual language by September, with every class taught in both Vietnamese and English.” Aiding this effort is the offer of complimentary classes to those willing to translate while participating in workshops.

The team also hopes to offer scholarships to talented and enthusiastic artists who can’t afford the classes.

Later this year, Workroom Four will host its second Open Exhibition, a display of work from a selection of professional and amateur artists. Anyone is invited to submit work, with the Workroom team selecting pieces to be displayed at the exhibition.

“We like meeting and working with a variety of people,” says Claire. “In the end, Workroom Four is about making nice things in a nice space with people you like to be with.”

For more information go to workroomfour. com or email workrmfour@gmail.com. To check out the space yourself head to Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho, Hanoi

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Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER HANOI

A La Folie

French cuisine adapted to the Vietnamese climate? Our undercover reporter heads down to A La Folie to see if this recently opened French restaurant makes the cut. Photos by Julie Vola

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win cabbage leaves camouflage a hearty pork filling, the two rolls lying side by side on a bed of crunchy hoa thien ly buds. The plating is elegant without being too calculated: thick swipes of black olive sauce, a careful tower of mashed sweet potato. Chou farci isn’t the kind of dish you see every day in Hanoi, but scraping the last drops of sauce from the plate, you might wish it appeared more frequently.

‘A la folie’ refers to a mad passion, and that phrase seems to have informed the restaurant’s enthusiastic approach to modern French cuisine.

Dishes that you might know as heavy and creamy are given a lighter, modern spin that fits Vietnam’s tropical climate, including the addition of local ingredients. Many of the dishes, like the chou farci, are improvised riffs on these traditional recipes.

Easygoing Owned by Vietnamese chef Duy Duc Luy and his friend Jean Sebastien Dang, as well as Stan Boissau, the man behind Chim Sao, which is located next door, just as at Chim Sao, the emphasis is on offering food that’s both affordable and authentic. But where Chim Sao serves up Vietnamese dishes, A La Folie takes on French fare, offering a VND250,000, three-course

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set menu that’s an ideal way to get a sense of the restaurant’s style.

The downstairs room has a high communal table, ideal for sharing a charcuterie plate or glass of wine from the thorough selection, which offers a good idea of the range of French wines at reasonable prices. Upstairs there’s a more formal sit-down space ideal for a cool lunch or relaxing dinner.

Glancing out the window offers an insider’s view into the back side of this quiet alley: low tiled rooftops, wooden shutters cracked open to let in any potential breeze. The room has a comfortable, easygoing vibe with thick tables, aged plank floors and linen settings in rustic earth tones, although the crinkly bouquets of fake flowers at each table clash with the down-toearth decor.

On this hot afternoon, grilled capsicum, eggplant and tomato confit salad make an ideal starter. Fresh greens came garnished with grilled vegetables, dressed in a snappy mustard vinaigrette — although half as much dressing would certainly have been enough. At least the surplus vinaigrette that pooled uncomfortably on lettuce leaves made a decent dip for thick slices of baguette. Purchased from a Vietnamese bakery that the restaurant has an exclusive agreement with, it’s one of the best in Hanoi, with a crackly crust and delicate interior.

Light and Heavy As a main course, I opt for that chou farci, a modern update to a hearty French classic. Traditionally, this is an autumn dish, with seasonal harvest ingredients like cabbage, pear and sweet potato signaling that cold weather is nearly here.

But the green buds give it a snappy lightness.

While there’s also an a la carte menu with dishes like rack of lamb, steak and foie gras, the set menu is the best way to get a sampling of what the restaurant has to offer.

Dishes are balanced, with lighter starters moving to heavier entrees.

Portions are well-calculated, so diners leave satisfied but not stuffed.

The service is good, although the waiting staff are still a bit timid. One edges into the room, eying my plate, then progresses gradually closer until finally leaning over to whisper, “Excuse me...are you finished?”

But their timing is impeccable.

No sooner is my main course dish removed than a generous wedge of apple tart is set before me, its thick bed of crust topped with solid layers of apple and custard. ‘Folie’ literally means madness. Maybe that’s what affects me between bites of the tart.

I consider coming back for dinner.

A la Folie is at 63 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3976 1667

THE VERDICT

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SERVICE

12 DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

STREET SNACKER HANOI

Che Thai Huyen Tran checks out the only eatery in the capital selling authentic Thai-style sweet soup. Photos by Teresa Welleans

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s the weather defines our appetite, summer could be called the season of drinking, rather than eating. This explains why during the summer months, Hanoi is so rich in different types of drinks. From nuoc mia or sugar cane juice to tra da, tra chanh or iced tea, lemon tea and che or sweet soup, these drinks can be seen on almost every street in the capital.

Of the summer drinks, my favourite is che. Personally, I don’t think the word ‘soup’ expresses the correct meaning of this concoction. Che is certainly not an appetizer and it’s neither savoury nor condensed — it’s an any-time-of-the-day drink. You can give yourself a treat in the morning, also a dessert after lunch, or afternoon tea, even for supper in the late evening while wandering around the Old Quarter.

Traditional sweet soups include black bean, green peas or lotus seeds with the scented smell of jasmine. But in recent years, imported versions are becoming popular.

Besides Singaporean bobo-chacha, and various versions from Malaysia or Hong Kong, Thailand sweet soup, known as che Thai, has garnered a following. Available at eateries on Doi Can, Giang Vo, Hang Than and in Nam Dong Market, it is however only at the eatery on Kim Ma where diners

can enjoy an authentic Thailand-like experience.

A Homage to Thailand Located down a small alley, Che Thai Lan is easily recognisable thanks to its Thai script signage. Thai-styled silver bowls and pots with typical elephant patterns are displayed in a glass cabinet in the interior, and the shop owner comes from a Vietnamese family that used to live in Thailand.

The eatery offers two signature dishes, che Thai and kem xoi or sticky rice with icecream, and sometimes, Thailand’s layer cake.

Their che is also totally different from that of other shops. While elsewhere sells Thai sweet soup with green thin-shaped pieces, this eatery offers white and green pieces in a variety of shapes — some even look like insects. Another special element is the fresh pieces of coconut within the soup. Instead of a dense soup, the light broth is earthy, flavoury and tender, and is made 100 percent from coconut juice.

“The secret in delicious che Thai lies in the fresh coconut juice,” says the owner.

“Our che Thai is made from coconut without any additives or milk. You can distinguish fresh and authentic coconut soup from fake versions after drinking it — you don’t feel thirsty.”

The other signature dish, kem xoi, is served up in a small bowl with green sticky rice at the bottom and a scoop of white coconut icecream topped with shining pieces of coconut.

The green of the rice comes from pineapple leaf extract — making it gently scented and very soft. The coconut is also dry and crispy, giving the dish a nice range of textures.

“Few diners can imagine how many steps it takes to make these dishes,” continues the owner. “Every day we make four batches of kem xoi and che Thai. Due to the hot weather, these sweet dishes easily become sour, so we only make a limited quantity for each batch.”

She adds: “Che Thai has been well-known in Hanoi around 20 years, but we started this shop 29 years ago when hardly anyone in Vietnam owned a Thai soup shop. Now che Thai seems to be everywhere. But our che is different to elsewhere. And I don’t want to change. It makes us stand out. It’s also our own memory of our Thailand — our second homeland after Vietnam.”

Che Thai and kem xoi costs VND15,000 a bowl. The eatery opens at 10am and closes around 10pm at night. Go on to Kim Ma and stop at the junction between Kim Ma and Tran Huy Lieu. Turn right onto the small alley opposite Hanoi Toserco building at 273 Kim Ma and stop at the end of the alley. The eatery is a perfect escape at sunset

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Food & drink

STREET SNACKER PHAN RANG

Cham Cuisine Champa, the empire formerly covering Central Vietnam, is long gone. But the Cham people aren’t. In search of Cham cuisine, Ed Weinberg heads to a village outside of Phan Rang and samples 12 courses of the real thing 110 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com

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n Phan Rang and tasked with writing a Street Snacker on Cham cuisine, I ask our host — a 30-year-old Cham community organiser and sometime tour guide named Inra Jaka — whether there are any good Cham restaurants in the city.

“No,” he tells me, there are no Cham restaurants at all. That’s one of the problems with publicising the community, he laments.

I’m skeptical — I know of one Cham restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City’s Binh Thanh District, which just opened its doors last month. When I point to it as evidence that there’s a Cham restaurant somewhere he says, “No, I don’t think so.”

Jaka is used to provoking confused frowns in novices, and I don’t disappoint him. (Later he explains: “There are some in Ho Chi Minh City but they’re mostly for Malay people. Cham and Malay cuisines are quite similar. So you may call it Cham, but it’s not what we’re doing here.”) He waits a beat, then continues: “There is a saying in Cham. The wise will eat the liquid, the fool will eat the meat.”

After giving us a moment to absorb his cryptic words, Jaka provides us his spin. “A host will always say he’s already eaten when he goes around the table to serve his guests, otherwise they won’t feel comfortable eating. But it’s the host that gets more out of the meal.”

Later in the trip, with pottery villages and ancient hilltop temples behind us, I get a chance to sample the liquid of Cham cuisine — a 12-course meal, ladled into 30 waiting bowls.

‘Cheers’ in Cham On the patio, three hours after the first pigeons are slaughtered and plucked clean, we unleash our first toast — clinking glasses of beer and tamarind juice to a Chamlanguage count of “tha, dwa, klow — mu!”

In front of us lie 11 courses, all served at the same time. There’s shrimp salad, broken rice, mashed tamarind, fried pigeon, pigeon

porridge, sour soup with pigeon, sour soup with chicken, sour soup with dried fish, fried corn, slow-cooked fish with egg and minced dried fish. There’s an emphasis on tamarind and different herbs are employed to those found commonly in Vietnamese cuisine. They’re fresher, more bitter. After the meal we receive some green bean che, but that doesn’t come for a long time.

The diners in my radius seem to gravitate towards the shrimp salad for starters, garnished with a lush spread of peanuts and a herbaceous leaf called la chum ruot. Its fruit is used in Vietnamese cuisine but not the leaf, and it lends the tangy mix of tamarind and shrimp an earthy grounding.

The slow-cooked fish has a chopped liverlike consistency, and is heavily salted. On its slow, tingly roll down my tongue the salt gives way to chilli, and the lingering burn is clean, almost light.

The vegetable dish includes herbs that are unusual by Vietnamese standards; banana flowers, la chum ruot and young tamarind leaves. Everything is intended to match specific dishes and aid digestion.

Jaka says, “All of Cham cooking focuses on healthy digestion.”

The pigeons — aka squab — are not the overfed scavengers of western cities, but small birds whose meat has been lightly fried and well-salted. On one dish they provide supple, juicy morsels on their own; in another they mix in with a light but glutinous porridge, coming together under a liberal shake of pepper. They’re both delicate and moreish. As I take a second helping I realise that I like pigeon — a lot.

Who knew?

Meet Our Hosts As the meal winds down, we go around the circle to introduce ourselves.

Jaka translates for those who don’t speak English, and sometimes adds in bits of his own, as he does with Cam Ry, the first to be introduced. Cam Ry, Jaka tells us, was

one of the young men who rejected their Cham identity, assimilating into Vietnamese culture because he didn’t know enough to be proud of his roots. When he met Jaka, he learned things he could connect to and be proud of. Now his love of cooking and Cham culture have found a fulfilling intersection.

The rest of our hosts are teachers, tourism pros and university graduates in interesting disciplines, all from the surrounding villages. A few are jobless or not working in something they’re passionate about, but they love to travel.

And then there is Ly: “My name is Ly, I’m from this village, and when I’m full I like to sleep.”

Dinner Plans These sporadic meals are part of a larger plan, one that will hopefully accomplish more than just full bellies. “We are doing this,” Jaka says, “because we want to know the food we are cooking. We want to raise awareness.”

They switch villages every meal, and in every meal a different household cooks. As they cover more ground, more interested Cham youth follow along, actively participating in a culture that — for many — they never knew.

Their next destination is a pottery village, and the dishes will be claypot dishes — slow-cooked fish, banh beo. This approach is characteristic of the Cham, and is the same approach they have towards their environment, as much as deforestation has changed it.

“The rain is coming,” Jaka says in talking about the next meal. “Some of the ingredients here are always available, some depend on the season. We eat the seasons.”

To participate in Cham cuisine and other culture-intensive experiences in the Phan Rang area, go to jakatours.com. Alternatively, call Inra Jaka on 0919 174987 or email inrajaka@ gmail.com

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WAITING FOR THEIR SHIP Facing the water, it always seems life is full of possibility. The water moves, the breeze blows. Detached slabs of paddy field loll on the current, sent from another world.

On the edge of this possibility waits a certain type of person, chilled by the breeze but unmoving, mesmerised by the flow of the river. One day she’ll take action, but today is not that day.

Photos by Francis Xavier Modelling by Linh Phan and Thuy Clothing by RB&K Accessories by Moniko Vietnam Location The Boat House, Ho Chi Minh City

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Monthierry Dress: VND2.5 million | Moniko Green/Gold Sakua Obi Clutch: VND2.7 milion

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Mutty Dress: VND3.7 million | Moniko Classic Kikkou Obi Clutch: VND2.7 milion

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Left Model: Madrey Shirt: VND1.6 million | Malea Pants: VND2.3 million | Moniko Bold Nami Obi Clutch: VND2.7 milion Right Model: Medhi Shirt: VND1.6 million | Macrea Shorts: VND1.6 million

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Left Maudrey Top: VND1.6 million | Monloic Shorts: VND1.4 million Right Mary Top: VND1.6 million | Maemily Pants: VND1.6 million

About RB&K RB&K was created in 2014 by Rebecca Bargas. The brand came about as a meeting between cutting edge Asian and traditional European style.

It endeavours to capture the pleasure, sweetness and elegance of women’s everyday lives.

Find RB&K at rbkandco.com and their multibrand shop (81 Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC) Find Moniko at moniko.biz and Gaya (1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, HCMC)

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travel

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DAY TRIPPER

Climbing Black Virgin Mountain Matt Bender sets out to climb the tallest mountain in southern Vietnam, and finds just as much wonder on the way. Photos by Glen Riley

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he tallest mountain in southern Vietnam isn’t really a mountain at all, but a 986m dead volcano in Tay Ninh. If you do a Google search for 'Black Virgin Mountain' (Nui Ba Den) you’ll get a history lesson on the female monk who ran away from an arranged marriage and disappeared — although they supposedly later found “a section of her leg in a stone cavern” — for whom the volcano is named and a bunch of stuff about its military significance during the American War. The elevation offered by a volcanic cone rising up from the otherwise flat Mekong Delta made it a prized position in wartime,

Photo by Matt Bender

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“Despite the sounds of V-pop and sirens floating up from the ruckus below this really is a beautiful hike, with lots of hidden caverns, songbirds and the occasional wild monkey hooting in the distance” and the place was constantly fought over — changing hands between US troops and the Viet Cong as if it were a chip in a card game.

When you drive south and find yourself standing at the foot of the mountain you’ll find farmers squatting next to big ziggurats of custard apples, street hawkers selling meats on sticks, thick banh canh noodles (a speciality of the province), lots of dusty unpaved roads and the locals calling it Ba Den (Black Virgin) — “Ba Den, Ba Den” like a mantra, as if the word ‘nui’ (mountain) is made irrelevant by the imposing shadow of it hanging over the valley.

In actuality there is no clear trail that people hike to the summit. You can push and make your own path across the formidable boulders, red ants and biting beetles. You can navigate around vegetation that’d make you think you were in Honey, I Shrunk the Kids. My girlfriend and I took a three-day trip to the Black Virgin Mountain over Tet to attempt all of these things. If this intro didn’t hook you in and you’re not going to read any further, then please remember this: don’t believe everything you read on people’s travel blogs. And certainly don’t visit Black Virgin Mountain during Tet.

Day 1: Day of Derision A tent city of food stands and parking areas sprouts up around the entrance to the gondola ride. Further down is the main entrance peppered with more parking areas, more food and plastic toy hawkers, a big display for some kind of mountaingrown rejuvenating pine oil, paved roads rolling through more food and plastic toy stands, confused-looking monkeys in tiny cages, people sprawled out on blankets and trash everywhere. No joke — there are some

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areas where you can literally wade ankledeep in plastic bags and paper wrappers.

The blog I’d read said that to climb the bouldered slopes you need to climb to the top of the steps, pass the temple and then jump the fence. This is false. The 500-plus steps to the top are just past the gondola ride and lined with the same hawker stalls, the same garbage strewn over every inch of ground.

The ground litter (and litterbugs) were astonishingly unapologetic — to the point where you’d think that littering was secretly encouraged. Sights like boys racing empty Coca-Cola cans down the rocky slopes didn’t even wrinkle a brow on this holy mountain. The whole place seemed less like a temple and more like a Buddhistthemed carnival where the carnies and barkers had taken over. All that was lacking were the ball-toss and Skee-Ball machines.

At the top was the main pagoda and a bunch of signs telling you not to jump the fence. After jumping the fence anyway we were stopped by a steep ravine that blocked access to the rest of the mountain.

Girlfriend took my hand and said, “Let’s go.”

The high point of Day 1 was taking the newly-installed Speed Coaster — just think of a bobsled with a hand brake and security guys blowing their whistles at you the whole way down — for a well-spent VND80,000 to the bottom, getting buzzed on sweet 333 and finally stumbling around to the well-hidden back entrance of the park from where real rock-hopping is actually possible. We scurried up about 400m as daylight began to fade then made a pact to get more beer, pass out early and come back early the next morning for a second ascent.

Day 2: The Scramble The back entrance of the park is behind the car park, well before the main gate and essentially to the left if you’re walking down the main thoroughfare towards the entrance. Pay VND12,000 at the ticket booth and hand your ticket to the security guards who might possibly have the easiest security gig in the country.

At 50m in you’ll see some log cabins with mango trees behind them and a clear path up the bouldered slope of Nui Ba Den. While it starts out easy, the climb quickly turns into a Class 3 scramble with some small bits of jungle on the rocks that require crab-walking and/or crawling through.

Despite the sounds of V-pop and sirens floating up from the ruckus below this really is a beautiful hike, with lots of hidden caverns, songbirds and the occasional wild monkey hooting in the distance. Build plenty of cairns (markers) along the way as you’ll be slipping and twisting through caves and across big boulders, which can make a trail misleading when it comes time to head down.

Looking down from the highest point at the festival-goers and pumpkin fields stretched out like peppercorn men tossed out across the greenest of tapestries, we realise we couldn’t have made it to that point sans machete. The highway we’d taken ran one way and the AH-1 we would take back ran the other — their point of convergence just out of sight.

Later that night found us back in Saigon at The Observatory, where I drank three beers, crossed my socks and tried to picture how small this little dot of a city would look from above.

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INTERNATIONAL

When in Sri Lanka‌ One of the few destinations in the region that has a little something for everyone, Sri Lanka is more than tropical beaches, ancient ruins and jungle. Brandon Ingram looks at another, more artistic side to The Pearl of the Indian Ocean

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Sri Lankan holiday is usually planned around its warm beaches, jungles crawling with leopards and mountains shrouded in myth. The island’s historical sites, ancient architecture and cultural mishmash have been at the core of its magnetic pull on tourism for decades, both pre and post-war.

Today, however, in the aftermath of years of turmoil, a new culture has emerged, setting the stage for artistic expression

through a myriad of talents. The city of Colombo is buzzing with events hosting performers of all genres, lifestyles of all natures and creativity that is arguably some of the best in South Asia.

The paradise island is still, no doubt, the home of many a wonder to behold. But its people (the youth in particular) have become more than facilitators of a brand of hospitality. Here are five experiences you must seek out when planning your next trip to Sri Lanka‌

Photo by Ruvin de Silva

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Photo by Ruvin de Silva

Listen to the Music of Thriloka facebook.com/thriloka

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ri Lankan folk music was born on the lips of men and women who worked the paddy fields during harvest. They created the melodies, they made up the words and they sang the tunes that would later become categorically known as Jana Kavi. The fiveman band Thriloka uses these melodious roots as the inspiration to their music. Thriloka literally means ‘three worlds’ (and none of them resemble the one we live in).

These boys paint the Sri Lankan spirit in sounds they create from almost anything they can get their hands on: clay vessels, brass ornaments, sand paper, sticks and stones — anything. Their commercial performances see them complementing each other on more established instruments. But even then, like the reapers of the harvest in the years gone by, they compose original pieces on the spot that neither they nor their listeners will recount when the music stops playing. They are a modern take on the sons of the soil and their music, a representation of the progressive prayers of thanks to the harvest gods. They spend most of their time at Music Matters (an experimental music school in Colombo) teaching, jamming and laughing.

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Watch a Mind Adventures Theatre Company Production facebook.com/mindadventures

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heatre in Sri Lanka dates back to the days of old when ritual and custom were the only known sources of inspiration for dramatisation. The superstitions of the Sinahalese people played a huge role in developing storylines and plots. And even though colonisation brought with it the western spotlight, the stage was still very much speaking the native language.

In the past five decades or so things have changed rapidly for English theatre in Colombo. The city boasts over 10 theatre companies that flourish the performance boards, across the year, featuring works that are both original and renowned. One of them — Mind Adventures — has recently

begun devoting less time to the spectacle of dramatic entertainment and more time starting a two-way dialogue on social and sexual politics that are very much local.

A signature feature of the company is their choice of venue for the social commentary they set in motion. Mind Adventures has performed inside a bathtub on a rooftop nightclub, on the lawn of the British Council (where they attacked audience members with water balloons), on a circular stage in the backyard of a church with a banyan tree growing out of the middle of it and most recently inside an abandoned hotel in the heart of Colombo, burnt in the fires of 1983.

These thespians offer English theatregoers the opportunity to revisit the history of the land with fresh perspective, shedding light on the roots of local theatre itself and using the methods of devised and immersive theatre to do it.

Photo by Ruvin de Silva

Go to a Bang Bang Party facebook.com/bangbangsrilanka

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he Sri Lankan youth revere partying for the unspoken religion it is, and Bang Bang Productions set up some of the most remarkable stages to give it its due. A true appreciation for the new age of electronic music, the variety of sound it resonates, the surrounding of acceptance it manifests and the good vibration it permeates — these seem to be the ideas that are nourished at a Bang Bang gig. To call it ‘rave culture’ would be doing it an injustice, though many have seen fit to call it just that.

Each of the Bang Bang DJs plays their Photo by Tavish Gunasena

own pleasure, music they enjoy dancing to. And who are they? Young men and women, friends and party people who celebrate good music and are willing to share it with anyone who wants to listen.

Some of them have even made a career out of producing music and now promote their work under international labels. Deep tech house, progressive psychedelic, funk, dub, techno, bwomp, wobble and glitch hop are just some of the genres throbbing off the speakers on a given night (or morning).

What makes these parties special is that they don’t happen every week. They come around a few times a year, but when they do, they do so in severe proportions.

Getting There To get to Sri Lanka from Vietnam you will need to travel via Kuala Lumpur, Singapore or Bangkok. Sri Lankan airlines fly from all three cities direct to Colombo — return flights from Bangkok cost from VND5.5 million depending on how early you book. Return flights with AirAsia from Kuala Lumpur start at VND4.5 million.

V ISAS

Unless you’re from Singapore or the Maldives, you will need a visa to enter Sri Lanka. This needs to be applied for online, lasts for 90 days and costs between US$15 and US$30 (VND315,000 and VND630,000). Go to eta.gov.lk to make your application.

C OSTS

US$1 = 130 Sri Lankan Rupee Expect cost in general to be similar to Vietnam. So, eating locally will cost you around VND30,000 or VND40,000 a meal, while going for a main course in a tourist restaurant will cost about VND100,000 to VND120,000. Hotel and guesthouse prices are also similar, starting at VND120,000 a night and heading upwards.

If you’re going to splurge a little, then expect a car and a driver to cost around VND1,200,000 a day, although bus travel remains cheap — you can get from one end of the island to the other for around VND450,000.

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Photo by Ruvin de Silva

Visit the Good Market facebook.com/thegoodmarketcolombo

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child looks amused at something she just created using pink glitter and glue. A young man wheels by on his skateboard, waving at his friends as he takes a sharp turn. A woman in one stall tells the couple who’ve stopped by to check out her goodies and have a look inside her neighbour’s stall as well.

A young musician plays his guitar as people gather round to listen to words that are his own. This is the vibe of the Good Market, and it happens every Thursday in the capital of Sri Lanka

— Sri Jayawardenapura Kotte — and on Saturdays at the Colombo Race Course.

The personalised stretch of stalls that pop up on these two days are packed with homemade foods, handmade jewellery and machine-made chocolate milkshakes that just hit the spot. The vendors have become friends and they call out to each other by name, offering a sweet here and a cup of water there as they walk by.

The Good Market is an initiative to help self-sustaining individuals market and sell their products in an environment full of likeminded people. The produce is organic and the merchandise is made from scratch.

There is no competition here, merely a

similar approach to the results of diligence and hard work. Its foundation rests on the values of a green economy and encourages its community to educate others on this way of life and its many benefits.

Some of the stalls at the Good Market include Jewelry by Manga — a collection of colourful accessories made of paper; Sapling — a range of bottled hummus with no artificial colours or flavours, made for vegans by a vegan; Sunara’s Art — a place for kids to hang out and go wild with a young friend who paints and colours with them; and of course the Achcharu Kade — serving Sri Lanka’s favourite fast food: your choice of fruit dusted in chilli.

Photo by Chirath Pushpika

“Sri Lanka is still very much about the temples of Kataragama, the waterfalls of Nuwara Eliya, the pilgrim’s climb to Adam’s Peak [and] the rejuvenation of the Jaffna peninsula... But there’s more to the story of the land and it’s being told right now through its people”

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Stay at the Bludge House facebook.com/thebludge

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hen the city becomes too overwhelming simply leave it behind and head on down south. That’s also what some local businesses do, especially the ones who are all about the chilled-out life. A few years back, ‘The Bludge’ started off as a T-shirt company in Colombo, with a brand ethos that revolves around living the dream and making it count for you whilst offering others an example of how easy it is. Its co-founders started off by giving up their day jobs and reminding Sri Lankans everywhere that their island home was made for enjoying life.

Their latest venture involves a holiday home away from home, tucked away on the greener side of Hikkaduwa, soon to become a well-known secret for weary travelers with heavy baggage on their minds. The Bludge Photo by Natalie Soysa

House serves up a spiritual timeout for those who seek to lose themselves completely or find themselves once more.

A double room at the villa costs Rs. 1500 (VND243,000) and food is available on request. A 10-minute tuktuk ride from this quiet hideaway will take you to the beaches of Hikkaduwa. Here you will find rotti shops galore offering a host of sweet and savoury delights that are set to melt on the tongue after an invigorating swim. Snorkeling along the reef, boating on the lagoon and surfing when the waves curve up just right — these are just some of the lesser attractions you can amuse yourself with outside the solitude of this retreat. Inside, it’s all about you-time; doing what you want, when you want to.

The Island Awaits…

Sri Lanka is still very much about the temples of Kataragama, the waterfalls of Nuwara

Eliya, the pilgrim’s climb to Adam’s Peak, the rejuvenation of the Jaffna peninsula and all the rest that’s just waiting to be explored. But there’s more to the story of the land and it’s being told right now through its people. Go meet them.

Things to do in Sri Lanka If you’d rather go with the more standard options when you visit Sri Lanka, here is a list of places to go and things to do. This is just the start — the island has a wealth of attractions to its name.

— Visit the ruins of the ancient kingdoms of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa — Climb the Sigiriya Rock Fortress — Go whitewater rafting in Kithulgala — Climb the Bambarakanda Mountain and discover the secret Sri Lankan Map-Shaped Pond — Go on a safari in the jungles of Yala — Escape to Unawatuna Bay on the south coast or Arugam Bay along the east coast — Journey through the tea estates of Nuwara Eliya and Bandarawela — Enjoy club hopping in Colombo — Go snorkeling in Trincomalee — Go kite-surfing or whale and dolphin watching in Kalpitiya — Take a walk inside Galle Fort — Go for elephant rides in Habarana — Visit the elephant sanctuary in Minneriya — Trek through the majestic Singharaja Rainforest

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travel

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AIRLINES

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AIR ASIA

DALAT / AROUND HANOI / HANOI - INTERNATIONAL / HANOI – MID-RANGE / HANOI – BUDGET / HCMC - INTERNATIONAL / HCMC - DELUXE / HCMC - MID-RANGE / HCMC - BUDGET / HOI AN & DANANG / HUE & LANG CO / NHA TRANG / PHAN THIET & MUI NE / PHONG NHA / PHU QUOC / SAPA / VUNG TAU & HO TRAM / TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI / TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE

$$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 bhayacruises.com Experience breathtaking tours of the serene Halong Bay, aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three– night trips with a wide range of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.

CUC PHUONG

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006 cucphuongtourism.com

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th– century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with, overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 02183 825662 etoile-des-mers.com

LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla.com Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.

In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: (0218) 386 8959 maichaulodge.com

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108 novotelhalong.com.vn

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031) 388 0888 pearlriverhotel.vn

TAM COC GARDEN RESORT Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249 2118 contact@tamcocgarden. com tamcocgarden.com Surrounded by rice fields and spectacular karsts, Tam Coc Garden is a haven of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury.

Spacious rooms with rustic and chic décor, a pool with breathtaking views, a beau-

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tiful garden, and panoramic views over the fields and mountains. The perfect place to relax.

HANOI - INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL

$$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel. com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women.

Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.

The first boutique five star

in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental. com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake.

Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi.com From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville.com The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi. com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HOTEL

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/ vn

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown.

In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines. com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerair.com

VIETJETAIR www.vietjetair.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.

The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique.

Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter

48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

EQUATORIAL

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and

entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.

The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt.

The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE

$$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary

property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

REX HOTEL

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2185 rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now five-star property, boasts designer fashion and a shop-

ping arcade.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT $$$$$

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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DESTINATION ZERO A NEW DESTINATION?

M

y mountainside room has a view, the kind of view that people travel halfway across the globe for — paddy field greenery that sweeps into an infinity of sky, limestone mountains and canals. Yet set in a remote part of southwest Vietnam on the edge of Cambodia, this is the type of sight that few overseas visitors to this country ever see. Until now.

My location? Nui Sam Mountain, a place of Mecca-like pilgrimage thanks to Ba Chau Xu Temple, and just 7km from Chau Doc. In the first three months of 2013, 1.9 million mainly domestic visitors flocked to this iconic temple. For 2014, the figures have yet to be calculated, but it is likely to be just as many if not more.

Yet my place of residence, even at the end of the pilgrimage season, is surprisingly quiet. The three-star Victoria Nui Sam Lodge, the latest of a Frenchstyled chain of Indochine hotels stretching across Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, has much in common with the lodges and villas of Dalat or the hill stations to the north.

Stone-brick bungalows nestle into the side of the mountain, while fauna, flowers, views and vegetable gardens make up the away-from-the-rest-of-the-world package.

But this isn't any old resort. First is the designation ‘three-star’, a misnomer for Vietnam. By local standards the star count should number four, but the Victoria chain holds itself to higher standards. From my own experience, this is a wonderfully comfortable, if not elegant version of three.

Then there’s the staff. This is a training hotel, a property where the staff are recruited from around the area and then given six months worth of hospitality training to ready them for the real, exceeding-guests’-expectations world.

Most will go on to work in Victoria’s more upmarket properties in the region. But this place is a land that creates opportunities, a Vietnamese yet somehow intriguingly American dream.

Beyond Nui Sam On my second morning I took an exhilarating early-morning 25km cycling trip along the canals, over the paddies and through small villages. This is Vietnam as it has existed for years. I then travelled by car to the nearby Tra Su Bird Sanctuary.

Another one of those gems not given the coverage it deserves by the guidebooks, this wetland nature reserve was spellbinding. Swarming with 70 species of birds, many close enough to view, the

melaleuca forest, grassland and swamp adds to the reserve’s sense of mystique. Nearly erased during the war — it was used as a Viet Cong hideout — nature has retaliated and made a comeback. So have the birds.

Here they nest and go about their business in abundance.

On my way back to the resort we stopped off for a cold sugar palm juice (nuoc thot not),

a drink more refreshing and certainly more tasty than its sugar cane equivalent. Then we visited a 300-year-old Khmer pagoda nestled in a Khmer village. This is all the tip of the inland, middle-of-nowhere iceberg. There is much to do in the area around Nui Sam and Chau Doc. Now people are starting to know about it. — Nick Ross For more information visit victoriahotels.asia

travel

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travel

PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS WHAT GOES THROUGH MY HEAD

A

fter teaching photography for a number of years, I have begun to find educational material to be all the same and just a little bit boring.

Then I stumbled across an amazing book by Michael Freeman — The Photographer’s Mind — which had a lot of pertinent elements that I really enjoyed reading. I highly recommend everyone to read this book.

Here I have put together one of Michael’s chapters with my own ‘South East Asian travel photographer’s chilli sauce’, because I find that it is a very effective way of showing people what goes through someone’s mind during the process of taking a photo. When I describe it to my students, I find they really enjoy this — they can instantly imagine how things happen and how they can apply their knowledge.

I will divide the process into four steps — camera settings; observation; anticipation and experience.

2) Observation Every good travel, street photographer and photojournalist is a great observer.

Being aware of their surroundings, the photographer will use a shorter time to make important decisions, such as how to use the natural light, or which foreground / background to use. This is necessary, especially when the process of composing an image only involves the subject at the very end.

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it frees you up time to think of the details and techniques that will make a great composition.

4) Experience

1) Camera settings One of the best ways to be efficient in travel and street photography is to be fast; especially in Southeast Asia where things are so busy. Mastering camera settings is the first step to becoming fast and this is the reason why I advise my students to use aperture priority when shooting (at least during the day) and to always adjust their settings when entering a new ‘light situation’ (a brighter or darker area).

Once this is done, it becomes something less to worry about when a photo opportunity presents itself. The photographer’s reaction will also be faster if they can find all buttons and functions instinctively, as the camera becomes the extension of the body.

Knowing what aperture to use depends on the depth of field desired and the distance of the subject, finding the ISO button while looking through the viewfinder and so on. All these little things will help the photographer win seconds, which are vital and will make light work of a spontaneous shot.

The need to be very fast and know camera settings is essential to capturing that fleeting moment

BY ETIENNE BOSSOT

3) Anticipation Once you’ve got camera settings and observation skills primed, anticipation is the next skill to master: moving ahead and in preparation of the photo concept.

Anticipating where a potential subject is going to be, where the light is going to move is key to shooting a great photo. This requires being physically fit enough to be able to move quickly, sometimes over holes, puddles, trees, walls, rivers, highways, magma and more.

Being comfortable with camera settings will help win seconds, which are vital for the photographer. I often find that my students are missing great photo opportunities because they feel in a rush.

They are often overwhelmed by all the great potential photos to be shot and are rushing to shoot as many things as possible. What happens then? The brain stops working.

The result is a lack of discipline in creating composition, and as is very often the case, the use of the wrong camera settings. Yes, you know I am talking about.

Once the camera settings are prepared in advance, the environment understood, and the photograph concept set up in the mind,

We tend to compose images using a few of the photography techniques we have learnt. But mostly it’s an unconscious act of applying what we know to making a good photo. For this we are using, as Michael Freeman says, a ‘repertoire’ of photos we have previously seen or taken and that we know work for us.

Using lines as diagonals, applying the rule of thirds, having our subject frame a certain way — this is very important in order to be fast and make decisions. It also increases the risk of taking the same photo ‘template’ over and over again.

Thus the need for extra time gained by preparation, observation, anticipation and applying our experience to adjust the composition and create something new, special and different. This will help us reach another level of creativity.

To get in contact with Etienne, email info@ picsofasia.com or go to picsofasia.com

travel RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417 riversidehotelsg.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - DELUXE CONTINENTAL

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to high-

light Vietnamese culture.

$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5517 majesticsaigon.com.vn

chic thanks to a subdued palette of white and grey around two ‘pop’ colours: azalea pink and green hot pepper. Part of the Thien Minh Group that includes Victoria Hotels and Buffalo Tours.

NORFOLK HOTEL

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

HOTEL MAJESTIC

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com

EMM HOTEL 157 Pasteur, Q3 A sleek, contemporary three-star hotel that mixes vintage appeal and modern

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com.vn

HCMC - BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An www.anbangbeachretreat. com

CUA DAI

$ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There

are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 354 5105 domainedetamhai.com

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 391 4555 life-resorts.com

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang.com

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com Located on the white sands of Bac My An beach close to both Danang and Hoi An, the welcoming and modern Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for a dynamic escape. Perfect for a family holiday or a romantic beach getaway.

THE NAM HAI

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre– programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT AND SPA Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510) 392 7040 victoriahotels.asia

HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel.com

www.cocobeach.net

paradise@cocobeach.net

HONG HOA HOTEL

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn.com

Coco Beach Resort

58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien Phan Thiet, Vietnam +84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 133

travel BANYAN TREE LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com/en/ lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel.com

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/ destination 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view.

Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222

Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.

sixsenses.com/resorts/ ninh-van-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.

The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton.com/nhatrang

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 382 0999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

$$ Tel: (058) 384 0501 whaleislandresort.com

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 374 3777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322 life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440 miamuine.com

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222 princessannam.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria

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chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY

$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com

PEPPER HOUSE

$ Tel: 01678 731560 pepperhouse-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY

$$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135 phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT

$$ Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5999 phongnhalakehouse.com

SAIGON - PHONG NHA

$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016 sgphongnhahotel@yahoo. com.vn

THANH DAT

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7328 thanhdatphongnha.com

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island

guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged.

Discount rates during rainy season.

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: (077) 399 5895 centarahotelsresorts.com

LA VERANDA

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: (077) 398 2988 laverandaresorts.com

MANGO BAY

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates.

The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge.com With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VICTORIA SAPA

$$$ Tel: 0203 871522 victoriahotels.asia

VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach.

Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao

THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include a 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.

The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful.

BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXOTISSIMO 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours.

Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more wellworn destinations.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for

travel

TRAVEL PROMOS PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH

Voulez-Vous? @ Vous Spa at the Novotel Nha Trang novotel-nhatrang.com It’s raining back in Saigon, and you just want to relax on your weekend away. Vous Spa wants that too. For the whole month of June, they’ll throw in 30 minutes of foot reflexology, scalp massage, manicure or pedicure when you book any treatments off the menu. Contact (058) 625 6938 for more info.

Where It All Began @ Coco Beach Resort cocobeach.net Coco Beach doesn’t parade this around, but they did start off that whole thing you know today as “the resort capital of Vietnam”. First to the white sands of Mui Ne, Coco Beach has a rare promotion starting this Jun. 27 — a two-night stay in a beach-topping bungalow for only VND2,990,000 per person, based on dual occupancy. The gardensurrounded, thatched-roof bungalow is so comfortable you’ll only want to leave for the included seafood dinner and aromatherapy massage.

An extra bed is available for an accompanying child, free of charge.

Summer Family Getaway @ Ana Mandara Villas Dalat anamandara-resort.com Looking for somewhere to take the family? Go the Ana Mandara way — until Aug. 29, taking your whole family for a Villa Studio holiday costs only VND3,150,000 net per family per night.

This is a minimum of two nights, and can be for two adults and two children or three adults, and includes a VND500,000 food-andbeverage voucher. Discover the fresh, clear highland summer, and coast off its memory during the

upcoming rainy season.

Summer Fun @ Allez Boo Resort allezbooresort.com All this summer — through to Oct. 12 because, why not? — Allez Boo is lowering the price on fun, from VND1,310,000 net nightly.

Included in that is daily breakfast, a welcome drink, discounts on activities and food and beverages, and of course, Mui Ne’s finest sea breezes.

Au Co Cruise Anniversary aucocruises.com For the month of June, Bhaya Cruises is offering three days and two nights aboard the Au Co Cruise for US$345 — about VND7.3 million, a discount of VND4.5 million off the standard price of US$560 for the same package. This special marks the company’s anniversary, and also includes a magical candlelit dinner in a cave grotto — so deep into adventure and luxury that the real world won’t feel so real when you’re back to it.

Teambuilding at Lang Co @ Ansana Lang Co angsana.com For meeting bookings made before Dec. 31 — for stays and bookings until Apr. 30, 2015 — Angsana has some added incentives for bringing your team to Central Vietnam in their Meeting Perks promotion.

Groups that reserve 20 room nights and a full-day meeting package qualify for two perks among the following list: choice of a 30-minute All-TerrainVehicle ride, archery, or water pillar paddle experience per delegate; a half-day guided meditation trip to Truc Lam Zen Monastery; a pre-dinner

open bar; two 90-minute a la carte spa sessions at Angsana Spa per 20 room nights; or two 18-hole green fee waivers at the Sir Nick Faldo-designed Laguna Lang Co championship golf course per 20 room nights. Tons of other perks are involved — especially for organisers — so get cracking.

Stay 3, Pay 2 @ Mango Bay Phu Quoc mangobayphuquoc.com Mango Bay Phu Quoc is known for its relaxing vibe, and in introducing their Stay 3, Pay 2 package they’re doing even more to keep the days stretching before you. From now until Oct. 31, book two nights starting at VND1,260,000 net per night and get the third free — working out to about half the high season’s rates. It’s easy to get into the swing of things at Mango Bay, with nights sipping wine under the starlit sky and days spent by the isolated stretch of beach the eco resort sits on. Now there’s no need to shake up the routine when the weekend ends.

Cool Summer @ Dalat Edensee dalatedensee.com It’s been three years since Dalat Edensee started offering the mountain views they’ve become known for, and they’d like you to take in the mountain breeze with their cool summer promotion, happening from May 5 to Aug. 25. From VND5.49 million for two, Edensee will put you up in a Mimosa Superior room for three days and two nights, letting you contemplate the tennis and swimming facilities from your restful balcony, and throwing in gift vouchers for spa treatments plus a romantic dinner every night.

expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/ vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures.

With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for.

Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

EXOTISSIMO 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotissimo.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING SERVICE 11th floor, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, District 1, HCMC Call center: 1900 5454 40 www.en.chudu24.com info.en@chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best prices and reliable service.

If you are looking for great local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.

It has been the #1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLY VIETNAM flyvietnam.com

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel: 0904 193308 intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure. com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

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RECALLING HANOI // THE PROMOTIONS // BOOK BUFF // THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // STUDENT EYE PROVIDED BY ERIC MERLIN / EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES

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old quarter

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

BARS & CLUBS CHEEKY QUARTER

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01679 647254 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

DRAGONFLY

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 4926 2177 11am to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

FATCAT BAR

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi.

The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3292 7614 8pm to late

HAIR OF THE DOG

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0947 893232 10am to late

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1943 3pm to late

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821 irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor.

Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA BOMBA LATINA

LATIN BAR 46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0917 245155

LE PUB

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL RESTOBAR 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 2104 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104

MOJITO BAR

CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR 19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/mojito.bar. lounge Decked out in wooden pan-

elling and bare brick, this tastefully designed watering whole in the Old Quarter is known for its prize-winning bartender and excellent cocktails

verted, colonial-era villa, the concept of the third Joma is the same as at its two other cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter, and a great selection of sandwiches, bagels, salads, cakes, ice-cream and tea.

smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

THE CART

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087 Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu.

SPY BAR

HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802

TEMPLE BAR

NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6675 7908

TET BAR

LATE-NIGHT BAR 2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3050

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1874 8am to midnight

CAFES CAFE PHO CO

COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153

JOMA

INTERNATIONAL CAFE 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem joma.biz Housed in a two-storey con-

COFFEE/BAKERY 222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

(04) 3825 6334 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don’t let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOO SKATESHOP

SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 Booskateshop.com

CONTRABAND

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month

with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com The downtown store of this well-known chic boutique.

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. Offers both ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards.

Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

THREE TREES

JEWELLERY 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

CRAFTS & FURNITURE MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and

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COFFEE CUP THE COFFEE INN

O

ne of the great things about living in a city like Hanoi is that when the summer heat rolls in, as it inevitably does, there is no shortage of places to take refuge.

With coffee franchises and blue-stool sidewalk cafes a dime-a-dozen, it’s always refreshing to see a newcomer throw their hat into the ring and offer something a bit different.

The Coffee Inn, located on Phan Chu Trinh, opened its doors last year. Its runaway success enabled it to recently expand its premises and its menu, which now includes a range of affordable pasta dishes.

The new areas include a funky art deco dining area that opens onto an industrialinspired outdoor space next to the café’s pasta kitchen.

Inside, black and white tiled floors and polished wooden furniture create a trendy,

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Photos by Julie Vola

modern feel, which has proven popular with the well-heeled young and professional crowds. They’ve also opened a second upstairs area with a balcony overlooking Phan Chu Trinh, in addition to the existing attic-style lounge in the original building.

Consistently Good The spaces have been a surefire hit with the clientele. A quick scan of the downstairs area shows just how versatile the space is: business lunches, coffee dates, lunch dates, group meetings, the lone guy working on his laptop (me), the couple in the corner booth taking selfies — they’re all here.

But the chic design and Facebook checkins aren’t the only factors behind why Hanoians are lapping up this new space. In fact, there are a couple of other reasons the café has been such a hit with the lunchtime and after-work crowds.

One of these is the café’s new lunchtime special, which allows you to get a decent sized spaghetti dish and passion fruit soda for VND55,000 with upsizes for only VND20,000 extra.

The other reason is the coffee. It’s consistent, strong and made by highly trained, friendly baristas. The coffee is so good that it has even secured a place on my list of latte refueling stations around the city.

Banking clerk Trang Pham agrees the café has become a favourite with young professionals: “It’s stylish, it’s very comfortable and the prices are really good for what they offer. This place has more personality than the franchise places and that’s what makes it different.”

I say cheers to that. — David Mann The Coffee Inn has three Hanoi branches: 3 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem; 33 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem; and 19 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung

hanoi Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards.

Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327 cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar.

Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3993 1399 10am to 10.30pm A slither of a joint serving up the same fare that the lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9916 greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm

GREEN TANGERINE

FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639 10am to midnight

LITTLE INDIA

INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1859 littleindianhn@gmail.com

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 9052 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce.

Known for its good, Euro-

pean-style coffee and firstfloor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.

LITTLE HANOI

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 8333 7.30am to 11pm

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

MILLENIUM

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

NAMASTE HANOI

PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery.

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed

a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout.

Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat. Features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

PROVECHO

THE LOFT STOP CAFÉ

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 223966 The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1979 southgatehanoi.com

THE KAFE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245 thekafe.vn Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner.

Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

THE MOOSE AND ROO

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.

Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers.

Clever changing imagery on the walls.

FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 8am to 11pm

SPICE

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580

TANDOOR

PAN-INDIAN 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 5359 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine.

Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAFÉ 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253

FITNESS & YOGA ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR BACCHUS CORNER

TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580 5.30am to 10.30pm

WINE RETAILER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country,

the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www. fivimart.com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

INTIMEX 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

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RECALLING HANOI PART TWO

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andscape is entangled with history and people’s lives. No matter how young we are or what social position we have, we all have stories to tell.

Recalling Hanoi is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry weaved out of portraits, people’s stories and the urban landscape

that hosts them.

I ask people living in the city to tell me about a place in Hanoi that holds memories. It can be about anything — a personal story intertwined with history; a great event; everyday little stories that our lives are made of. These stories, along with the photographs of the storyteller

and the location provide depth.

Through this collection I am attempting to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait of this city through its collective memory.

The hope is that the audience will connect to other people’s lives and also to their own memories in an attempt to understand this beautiful city.

I’d ask them what they thought.

These are my first memories of sharing how I felt about classical music with anyone else. I remember we would talk about the trees and the leaves, I’d say, “Do you ever look up to the sky and think it’s beautiful?” We’d touch the trunks of the trees to feel their souls. I’d explain how I felt about classical music — how it’s deep and special to me. I’d link my feelings about the music to Hoang Dieu and the trees and the passing of the seasons.

I have four close friends and we are all named after a season. I am Winter.

My friend Spring and I would often visit Hoang Dieu to talk and touch the wood, feeling the souls of the trees, the soul of the city. One time, we listened to Beethoven’s Spring Sonata and I explained how the music is like the wind passing through the leaves. Spring said, “I’ve never really noticed before, but if you look at the sky through the leaves it looks even bluer.” At that time there were almost no cars and few motorbikes on Hoang Dieu.

Those that did drive down drove slowly without obvious reason — the street had that impact on people.

Trang Thinh

Spring Sonata Location: Hoang Dieu When I was young my closest friends and I would cycle home after school down Hoang Dieu. It’s a very wide street with trees along the sides and down the middle. It’s so quiet, one of only a few places in Hanoi where you can listen to a Walkman, sit down and have a deep conversation with a friend. I only brought one friend at a time because any more would make me feel overwhelmed. These rides home along Hoang Dieu were my only chance to talk to anyone else about classical music. On the way we would listen to songs I liked on my Walkman and

hanoi

BY JULIE VOLA

Mr Linh

The Governor Location: Nguyen Du I grew up in a big house near Thien Quang Lake on Nguyen Du. After Dien Bien Phu and the French War, the Communist Party took it as their headquarters. Before the war my whole family had lived there — my parents, uncles, aunts and cousins. My grandfather Vi Van Bic was the governor of the Lang Son Province and had five official wives. There were about 10 kids living in this big house, we had a whole room of toys just for us. Though he was busy, my grandfather monitored our

education closely. After school we had tutors and extra classes. He also asked us to keep diaries and write everything that happened throughout our day, that way he could know what was happening in the house and he could use the information to resolve conflict.

I remember one naughty thing we did.

At home we always ate western food and we were sick of it. One afternoon seven or eight of us sneaked into the kitchen during naptime and stole some sweet potatoes.

We started to grill them on the stove

when we heard some noises and knew Grandfather had woken up. I panicked and pulled the sweet potato off the stove quickly and accidentally burnt my sister who started crying. Grandfather found out. To teach us not to steal he made us sit in a circle looking at the sweet potatoes in the middle. We were not allowed to have them until we asked nicely.

This is the second excerpt from Julie Vola’s work, Recalling Hanoi. The work will be serialised in Word over the coming months. For more information email juls.vola@gmail.com

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hanoi HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)

hoan kiem

THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi.com

L’ESPACE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT / CLASSES / GROCERIES & LIQUOR

PARIS DELI

Bà i

Triệu

Hàng

Hu ế

Phan

Bà

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Sứ

Q uá n Sứ

Đinh Ti ên H o à n g

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Hàng Điếu

Hưng Phùng

Quán Nguy ễn Du

Trần Hưn gĐ ạo

Lê Văn H u ư

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uyên

MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung 8pm to late

PHUC TAN

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem

RELAX BAR

HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901 8am to midnight

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

ZONE 17

BAMBOO BAR 17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem The first bar in what will eventually (hopefully) be a

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CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger cafécum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

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FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 Hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am La Fée Verte (or the ‘Green Fairy’) is a metaphor for the decadence of another age, an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The signature bar of the Hotel de l’Opéra Hanoi where, just as in Paris at the dawn of the 20th century, the making of an evening drink a lavish event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge atmosphere, great music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine to bring a genuine sense of occasion to after-dark in the capital.

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CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/bar84hanoi Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

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WILD WEST THEME BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822

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BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

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Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

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HOAN KIEM DISTRICT

zone dedicated to bars and restaurants. A pool table, a square bar in the middle of the room and a barbecue until the early hours — there’s quite an atmosphere in this pleasant watering hole.

CAFES CIAO CAFÉ

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

TWITTER BEANS COFFEE 45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760 twitterbeanscoffee.com

CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE

ARTS CINEMA 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES AMERICAN CLUB

EVENT SPACE 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar)

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach.

In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down.

The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare.

Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contem-

porary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.

Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA BADIANE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night.

A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.

Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.

hanoi LE BEAULIEU

THE PROMOTIONS

CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm

PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH

LUNO D’AUTUNNO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.

Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

Ring in the Summer at Daewoo Hotel Summer dining just got a little sweeter with Daewoo Hotel’s Café Promenade, who throughout the month of June, is offering those that book a table for three to 20 guests free use of their lush garden pool.

Enjoy a BBQ dinner of succulent delicacies, premium meat and sweet dessert temptations while lounging in the refreshing waters of Hanoi’s largest pool.

Daewoo Hotel is located at 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh. Find more information on specials at daewoohotel.com

NINETEEN 11

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm

Fortuna and Vietnam Airlines Team Up Fortuna Hotel Hanoi and Vietnam Airlines are joining forces from Jun. 1 for Golden Lotus Plus members, who can earn double miles when booking qualifying hotel nights between Jun. 1 and Aug. 31 this year. Members who stay at Fortuna Hotel’s luxurious Hanoi location will earn 1,000 miles for each qualifying night.

For more information on the promotion, and to find out which nights qualify, visit fortuna.vn or email reservation@fortuna.vn. Fortuna Hotel is located at 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh

Sunday brunch features a collection of lobsters, sushi, and pan fried foie gras among other treats starting from VND999,000++ per person.

Enjoy a free flow of beer and soft drinks while the kids have fun at the Special Kid’s Corner with games and prizes.

French Grill Restaurant is celebrating Father’s Day on Jun. 15 with a special set menu and a Beer and Football at free flow of soft drinks, beer or Highway 4 wine from VND1.6 million ++.

As the excitement for the World From 6pm to 11pm, the set menu Cup 2014 in Brazil heats up along created by Chef Raphael and his with the Hanoian heat, Highway 4 culinary team features the best Restaurant is cooling things down in the restaurant’s famous open in all the best ways — with beer! kitchen. Still looking for something From Jun. 12 until Jul. 13, get six to celebrate the dad in your life? bottles of the same beer for the price Head to JW Marriott’s spa for the of four, and enjoy them alongside ‘Gentlemen’s Journey’ spa package, all of Highway 4’s delicious paired with a complimentary high Vietnamese favourites. tea for two at The Lounge.

Highway 4’s World Cup beer The busy work day is easy to promotion is valid at all of the wind down from at JW Marriott’s restaurant’s locations nationwide, and Antidote Bar, with cocktail happy is valid from Jun. 12 until Jul. 13 hour from 6pm to 9pm every Tuesday to Saturday. Enjoy buy June at JW Marriott Hanoi one, get two deals on cocktails, Hotel draught beer and house beverages.

JW Marriott Hanoi Hotel is JW Marriott Hanoi Hotel is locate ringing in the heat of the summer at 8 Do Duc Duc, Tu Liem, and online with plenty of delicious deals. at jwmarriotthanoi.com The ground floor Café Restaurant brings to the month of June buffets Melia Celebrates Dads Melia Hotel Hanoi celebrates featuring delicacies from five fathers on Sunday, Jun. 15 at El regions around the world. The

PANE E VINO Lobster at the Daewoo

Patio Restaurant, with their lunch buffet featuring some new treats just for dad. Along with delicious Mediterranean delicacies, each father will get a special gift prepared at the restaurant.

The buffet will be served from 11.30am to 2.30pm, and is priced at VND905,000++ per adult and VND515,000++ for children, with free flow of house wine, draught beer and soft drinks.

Melia Hotel Hanoi is located at 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem

PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.

Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

PRESS CLUB

Summit Summer Summit Lounge has plenty in store for the month of June, with live music, drinks deals and sunset specials. Head in on the evening of Jun. 21 to enjoy a night of cabaret music. For the brave of heart, the night is also a chance to perform on stage yourself with the promise of complimentary drinks.

On weekends, cool off from the summer heat with the new Summit Ice Cool menu, with scrumptious ice cream and international beers. Enjoy your work week, too, with Martini Mondays, Whiskey Wednesdays and daily sunset half-price deals on refills.

Sofitel Plaza Hanoi’s Summit Lounge is located at 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list.

Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.

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PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226

WORK ROOM FOUR

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho workrmfour@gmail.com workrmfour.tumblr.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

BARS & CLUBS 88 LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029 88group.vn 5pm to late A wine bar with a difference, this addition to the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

WESTERN CANNED FOODS

GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

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HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,

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Tel: 01633 166170 hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@ hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

HOUSE OF SON TINH

LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377 sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho Open daily from 2pm.

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VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

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HANOI GOURMET

DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com The long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

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SUPERMARKET 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

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WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc.vn

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BIKING CAFE so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho kub.vn Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole bringing that’s become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.

Does good on-the-table bia hoi and runs biking events.

BOOKWORM TOO

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SUPERMARKET Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

KUB CAFE

regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

BOOK SHOPS

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5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES

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WRAP & ROLL

salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

tay ho

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414 hoteldelopera.com

Lạc

SATINE

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favorites. Nonsmoking, unpretentious, dog-friendly.

TAY TAP

MEET-UP SPOT 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917 4pm to late Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL

SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with

NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre.

With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts,

LA GRACE

ART CAFE & GALLERY 8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 666736 lagrace.com.vn 7.15am to 10pm Located on a peaceful street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van, La Grace is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: drinks, food, arts and sometimes live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue has a nice selection of juices and smoothies and a Vietnamese-cum-Japanese food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set lunches cost VND150,000, and the café also has strong WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.

Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ

ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection.com 8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday

Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an oldfashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE 68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.

The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CAFÉ / TAPAS BAR 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment.

Eclectic? Not a chance!

CLOTHING GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a madeto-measure service are available at no extra cost.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam.com Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts.

This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

COOKING CLASSES HIDDEN HANOI

COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BETTERWORLD

GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

LA CASA

CONTEMPORARY DESIGN Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084 lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development nonprofit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories.

Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired.

Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS DON’S TAY HO

BICYCLE RENTALS 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com

THANG LONG CYCLING

CYCLING SHOP 152 Yen Hoa, Tay Ho, Tel: 0986 866538

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CYCLING COLLECTIVE 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but also rents and fixes bicycles. To add to the eclectic, community

spirit they also organise bicycle tours, run yoga sessions, hold music concerts in their upstairs cafe area and run a great menu of Spanish tapas served up, if you so wish, with gin & tonic.

Quite a mix!

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 5322 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

DA PAOLO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake.

This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

DON’S TAY HO

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com Monday to Friday, 10am to late.

Weekends 8am to late This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service

in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.

Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

HALIA HANOI

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121 thehalia.com Monday – Saturday 11am to 11pm. Closed on Sundays A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space.

The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer.

Has an extensive wine list.

HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our

IL FARO

ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142 Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel, this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned by the same people behind Mediterraneo serves up an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italianinfluenced atmosphere.

J.A.F.A.

INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large par-

hanoi

BOOK BUFF THE EPICUREANS

Souvenirs and memories: this month Bookworm’s Truong looks at books that capture a moment in the life of Vietnam

I

t’s that time of the year when people are leaving Hanoi for good or off overseas to see relatives and friends to escape the summer heat. Lots want to take a photography book as a souvenir to remind them of their time in the city or show those friends and relatives what an exotic spot they’ve holed up in.

For a couple of years now books in this genre have been as scarce as hens’ teeth and a lot of the books that have been around for years are getting dated, while some perennial favorites are out of print.

But Things Asian Press has filled in the 2014 gap with a reasonably priced, soft cover volume that’s jam packed full of photographic images that you wish you’d personally captured the last time you saw them. Best of all, it’s not full of trite or condescending text.

American editor and photographer, Elizabeth Rush, is a former expat and a dab hand with the camera. She has got together a bunch of five, youngish and experienced Hanoian photographers to join her and photograph the vibrancy of Hanoi.

The result is a work by Elizabeth, Vietnamese nationals Maika Elan and Nguyen The Son, Viet Kieu Mathew Dakin and former Word Magazine photographer Aaron Joel Santos. It will be a sure sellout and will set the standard for all future general photography books about Vietnam. It may even scare a few photographic wishful thinkers in a different direction.

If you haven’t come across Lost and Found Hanoi yet I’d suggest that you get a wriggle on as books of this calibre are a once-in-a-decade phenomenon.

146 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Remembering Hanoi Another nice choice is from 2011 and was a joint project of French urban development group IMV and the Hanoi People’s Committee. It’s trilingual (English, Vietnamese and French) and though the accompanying text is more personal to the compilers, it manages to stay away from teeth-grinding clichés.

Hanoi: From One City to Another is still very relevant and the images will be appreciated by people who have gotten off the beaten track and explored with their eyes wide open. Photographers Vincent Bertholon and Clement Musil take you on a visual journey that will make a lot of readers smile with recognition. Berthelon’s pen and ink and watercolor sketches add to the book’s appeal It’s a hardcover, coffee-table type of book literally stitched together in the old Vietnamese way by the Van Hoa Publishing House, and this adds to its charm.

Marguerite Duras Some people collect selections of prose or poetry rather than visual images, and as this year is the centenary of the birth of one of Vietnam’s most creative expats, Marguerite Duras, who was born in Saigon to a French couple and who returned to France at 17 after a love affair with Vietnamese-Chinese merchant, Huyen Thuy Le, it’s hard to go past four of her memoir-cum-novels. Imbued with memories of her adolescent years in the Mekong Delta they move between life in Sa Dec, Saigon and the mangrove reaches of Cambodia.

The most famous novel is The Lover, a story that traces the sensual paths of its unnamed protagonists between Saigon and the pretty river town of Sa Dec. Duras honours the Asian male as a sexy being, beautiful and worthy of art and love. She expressed this first through the naked, masculine Japanese body in her 1959 screenplay for the film Hiroshima Mon Amour. This was also given potency in the form of the Chinese character in The Lover.

Readers who have grown up under the dominion of a depressive mother will empathize strongly with the girl. Females who were considered second rate to their male siblings will cheer her on.

The 1992 movie of the book was released to critical acclaim. Faithful both to the text and period, it is bewitching. If you’ve read the book or seen the movie and you’re exploring the rivers that make up The Mekong Delta, you can’t help but be reminded of the scene early in the novel where the 15-and-a-half-year-old girl meets the elegant young man in the black chauffer-driven limousine.

She’s wearing a dress of real, sepiacoloured silk that used to belong to her mother, one of her brothers’ belts, a man’s fedora hat, and a pair of worn, gold lame high heels, decorated with little diamente flowers.

The other Duras novels and memoirs that evoke her Indochinese adolescence are The Sea Wall, Eden Cinema and The North China Lover. Once taken in by the Duras magic you’ll understand why the French are intent on celebrating her centenary.

ties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 53 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5656 8am to 11pm

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Set inside a newly renovated house with a large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.

R&R TAVERN

RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 8215 Now on its third location, this watering hole still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some quality live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events, while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.

RASA SINGAPURA

SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE 185 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3715 2992 rasasingapura-hanoi.com 5pm to midnight This Singapore Peranakan Restaurant serves up authentic, Straits fusion fare emanating from Singapore, Malacca and Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature dish, all the fare here is homecooked by the owner / partner who spent five years living and studying in Singapore. This is tasty, home-cooked, well-priced fare in a pleasant but tranquil setting.

SAINT HONORE

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore.com.vn 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, freshcooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as

sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da

THE PIE SHOP

TAKEAWAY PIES 2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 1507 thepieshophanoi@gmail.com Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style savoury pies and rolls. Available in three convenient sizes (mini, regular and large). Enjoy them hot as a takeaway, or frozen to keep for later.

THE SUSHI CLUB

CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE 10A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0934 544263 thesushiclub.info The Akataiyo Group has operated Japanese restaurants in Vietnam for over 10 years. Located up from Don’s, the latest addition — The Sushi Club — combines traditional Japanese cuisine with modern fare, serving up sushi, sashimi, ramen and gyoza. A comfy ambience, this eatery is perfect for dates, business dinners, meeting friends and family gatherings. Private rooms available.

EXPAT SERVIES MAID IN VIETNAM

HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3112 maidinvietnam.com Offering a licensed hire service for trained domestic and office housemaids, cooks and nannies.

Courses include health checks, housekeeping, safety, basic 1st Aid, courses for external maids and household management for Vietnamese wives of foreigners.

FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS

TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

HANOI CLUB

COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com

VIETCLIMB

CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS

ANNAM GOURMET

GROCERIES / DELI First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET Second Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1791

KITCHEN ART

KITCHENWARE 38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.

L'S PLACE

GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

NATURALLY VIETNAM

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for

expats and Vietnamese.

PUNTO ITALIA

COFFEE MACHINES 62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

THE OASIS

ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case.

Free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

MEDICAL & DENTAL INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC

MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

ONE DENTAL CLINIC

DENTISTS 8 Quang An, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6168

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam.

The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

hanoi

THE ALCHEMIST THE SOUND OF MUSIC

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lancing through last month’s issue of Word, I was inspired by its feature on music. I immediately thought of the Fibonacci Sequence, the seemingly magical fractal equation that can be found in compositions throughout nature, art and music. The spiraling pattern created by the sequence can be observed in the smallest to the largest objects in the natural world.

Music, itself, is also magical. It possesses the alchemical ability to transport us back in time, to change our mood and to heal us.

spiritual and physical state.

Sound healing is not a New Age phenomenon, the art and science of vibrational sound healing dates back thousands of years. In recent times, the discovery of the medical benefits of ultrasound treatments has lead to an

Sound Healing According to holistic healing pioneer, Dr. John Diamond, “The basic purpose of music is to be therapeutic, to raise the life energy of the listener.” Music affects us in subtle yet profound ways, touching our subconscious and altering our state of being.

Our meridian energy system responds to sounds well above our audible threshold.

Simply put, our bodies hear sounds we are unable to hear with our ears.

Noise stresses the body whereas natural sounds have the ability to raise our life energy and thereby enhance our mental, emotional,

148 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com

expansion in the application of sound healing therapies.

Modern astrophysicist, Trinh Xuan Thuan, states, “If the cosmos is vast it is by no means silent. Nature delights in continuously sending us her notes of music.” It is believed that sound has structured the universe and,

BY KAREN GAY

as such, sound waves are responsible for the structure of everything we see around us including every bone, muscle and organ in our body.

Get in Tune Dr. Deepak Chopra notes, “The body is held together by sound — the presence of disease indicates that some sounds have gone out of tune.” When the body frequencies are in harmony, the body is healthy, when the body frequencies are out of harmony, disease occurs. Sound healing therapies help to tune the different chakras, meridians, organs and glands of the body, restoring them to their unique natural frequencies. When the body’s frequencies are balanced and the rhythm or flow of energy re-established, the natural healing processes of the body can take place.

The sounds that we hear carry an energy vibration that affects us in different ways.

Some sounds can be uplifting, others calming, while others may have a negative effect on us.

Music is like medicine for our body, mind and soul choose it wisely.

Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi.

For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

hanoi Reservations recommended.

ba dinh

MING PALACE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS BARBETTA

ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

SUMMIT LOUNGE

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR 20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 ext. 5314 4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday, 4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday

BOOKSHOPS BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi

CAFES CAFÉ GOETHE

ARTS CAFÉ 56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 7395

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 2247 0602 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

Đà n

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh (Next to the Flag Tower) Tel: (04) 3823 3339 highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

MANZI

ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES GOETHE INSTITUT

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE

COOKING CENTRE 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 10am to midnight Đinh T iên H o àn g

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With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

Has a second shop in Tay Ho

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Ho àn g

Hoàng Quốc Việt

ing an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.

Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

n Yê

BA DINH DISTRICT

Trần Nhân Tông

cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

EAT AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach.

In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Sell-

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3942 4448 hoasuaschool.com

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space.

It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 3098 11am to 11pm

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.

Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus.

PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

THE BISTRO

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 4782 thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

FITNESS & YOGA N SHAPE FITNESS

MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice. com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats.

Also a 24-hour emergency service.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

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THE THERAPIST

This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, talks about how to deal with mid-life crisis Dear Douglas, What is a mid-life crisis? How do I know if it is why my husband is acting so weird lately? He’s 42 and he suddenly wants get a tattoo and take an expensive vacation to go bungee jumping… while around the house he is often restless, unhappy and is drinking more than he ever used to. He just doesn’t seem to be himself. What is wrong with him? Will I ever get back the man I know?

— Jamie Dear Jamie, It is commonly understood that during the mid-life years many people go through a period of transition. Sometimes it can be confusing and disruptive to the continuity of life, especially family life, and at other times it is a less obvious rearrangement of priorities. Your husband seems to be exhibiting some of the classic qualities of a mid-life crisis. He is feeling discontentment with the status quo — restless, unhappy and drinking. And he is imagining options that might spice up the excitement factor — tattoos and thrill seeking vacations.

One way to consider what happens during midlife years (35 to 45) is to think in terms of how our life looks. Is it what we would want it to be or what we imagined it would be? Many of us get well into adulthood, having made decisions about

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career and marriage and family along the way, only to feel that the life we are living is very different to what we imagined or hoped for. It also coincides with a general sense of decline. Our bodies look and feel different and are less capable than they were before. The career aspirations we had as a younger person have come to fruition (or not). The romantic part of our love life is often on the wane — traded in for co-parenting and money decisions.

Often new dreams seem buried under the responsibilities we have to raise and pay for the needs and aspirations of our children, and the growing feeling of responsibility for aging parents and what it means to care-take them. So the crisis part of mid-life is that we start to feel like we are no longer living according to the wants and dreams of our own calling.

Another way to think about it has to do with our first attempts at adapting to the challenges life has thrown at us. As a child or teenager we respond to life in an automatic and instinctive way. We do what comes natural. Sometimes those responses are in the form of coping strategies meant to get us through the situation or the short run. This is done without an understanding of what is needed sustainably, for the long run. We often develop coping strategies to cope with coping strategies — drinking too

much is one of those as a way of muffling nagging feelings that we should attend to about some unresolved aspect of our life.

Mid-life can be a time when the collapse of our coping strategies begins to generate more intense methods of avoidance and a heightened fear that, “I can’t keep going on this way, but I don’t really know anything else”. Sometimes mid-life is the time for a serious pause: a painful look back to see what is unresolved and needing tending to; to develop alternative strategies of dealing with things in a new way; and to envision one’s future through the lens of a new optimism, more in line with the establishment of understood priorities. This is the work of therapy.

You might suggest to your husband that he is in a mid-life crisis and share with him what I have written.

There is a lot written about it that he can explore and maybe he will consider getting some professional help to gain guidance through the process. It is certainly something that can be dealt with constructively.

Enjoy it all, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

hanoi Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com

elsewhere

A DONG PHOTO CO

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION

RECREATION KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL

BARS & CLUBS CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

VUVUZELA

MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung

CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm

FRENCH GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook.com/frenchgrill Every day 6pm to 11pm With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3796 2647 10am to midnight

CAFES KOTO ON VAN MIEU

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

HAM HANH

ARTSY CAFE 170 Doi Can, Dong Da The physical representation of arts, film and music collective, The Onion Cellar, this cafe with multiple areas is as left field as the people who created it.

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space.

It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday

SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn

11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

rant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restau-

ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK

ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418

FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568

NGUYEN CAU

ICE SKATING Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936 469799 royalcity.com.vn

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

X-FACTORY LASER TAG

HI-TECH USA

LASER TAG 77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106 x-factory-vn.com

DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261

PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL & DENTAL POTS ‘N PANS

SWIMMING POOL Landmark 72 Tower, Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3772 3801 landmark72.com

128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732

FRENCH HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983 011081

VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771

SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN

EAT ASAHI SUSHI

ELECTRONICS

LA VERTICALE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

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MEDICAL BUFF ANTIBIOTIC RESISTANCE

“A

ntibiotic Resistance a ‘Catastrophic Threat.’” — Reuter’s headline, March 2014 “Antibiotic Apocalypse. A terrible future could be on the horizon, a future which rips one of the greatest tools of medicine out of the hands of doctors.” — BBC headline The article continues: “A simple cut to your finger could leave you fighting for your life. Luck will play a bigger role in your future than any doctor could. The most basic operations — getting an appendix removed or a hip replacement — could become deadly. Cancer treatments and organ transplants could kill you. Childbirth could once again become a deadly moment in a woman’s life. It’s a future without antibiotics.”

Antibiotics are powerful medicines that fight bacterial infections. Used properly, antibiotics can save lives. Antibiotics do not fight infections caused by viruses, such as: — Colds and flu — Most ear infections — Sinusitis — Most coughs and bronchitis — Sore throats, unless caused by strep

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Already many common illnesses can no longer be treated with simple antibiotics due to resistance. New superbugs such as MRSA are emerging. Cases of totally drug resistant tuberculosis have been identified in the past few years.

The Cause?

According to the journal Antimicrobial Resistance and Infection Control, the most important cause of resistance is the massive overuse of antibiotics worldwide in the past decades. This is across all ecosystems and includes humans, animals, aquaculture, and agriculture.

Added to this is the lack of new antibiotic technology in the pharmaceutical pipelines. The last family of antibiotics to be discovered was in the 1980s.

Many national and international meetings, workshops and task forces, as well as reports in the scientific literature and lay press, have been dedicated to this threat over the last decade, particularly in 2011. But due to a lack of coordination, there has been little impact.

Asia has the highest level of antibiotic resistance in the world and has only very recently recognised this critical healthcare

BY DR. DAMIEN CUMMINS

problem. In 2013 it is estimated that 83 percent of people suffering from the common cold in China who went to see their doctor were prescribed antibiotics.

The Netherlands, on the other hand, has the lowest use of antibiotics in Europe and subsequently the lowest incidence of resistance.

A World Without Antibiotics The harm that has been done cannot be undone but we can all try and reduce it further. Nobody wants to live in a world without antibiotics, to return to return to a life prior to Fleming’s discovery of Penicillin.

So here are some simple rules that we should all follow.

— Antibiotics should only be prescribed when necessary and by doctors — The course should be finished even if the person is feeling better — Antibiotics should not be saved for later use or given to friends or family Dr Damien Cummins is from the UK and has been working for the International SOS Hanoi Clinic since 2012. His background is general and emergency medicine.

International SOS Hanoi Clinic is at 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666

hanoi

business

BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS BUSINESS GROUPS

keychains, card holders and menu covers.

ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center, Ground Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 4772 0833 sbav-hanoi.org

CORPORATE SERVICES ENDO 79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3783 2085 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to

INSURANCE AIG Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 1455 aig.com.vn

IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS) H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435 bvisvietnam.com

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system.

All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,

Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

Foundation Programme. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers.

Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC

rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and long-term courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)

MARKET RESEARCH

Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551 unishanoi.org

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743 0360 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243 C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri New Urban, Tu Liem District, Tel: +84 4 3794 0209 kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SIS) 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036 www,kinderworld.net/sis SIS provides international education for students from Primary up to University

APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 2051 Apollo.edu.vn Established in 1994, Apollo offers high-quality and costeffective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres.

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3728 1922 britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3927 3399 languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3762 3805 ghmsglobal.com

RMIT Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 1460

CIMIGO 142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com cimigolive.com

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO Inland Customs Deport Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882 asiantigergroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption ti family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. For more information email info@santaferelo. com.vn.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0912 239085 atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

FRASER SUITES HANOI 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 8877 Located in the West Lake area, Fraser Suites Hanoi consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four bedrooms, which meet any lifestyle. With a calming and warm interior feel, each apartment features all the latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides peace of mind.

SEDONA SUITES No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 0888 sedonahotels.com.sg

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3934 2342 somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central location.

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STUDENT EYE WHAT DO YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU GROW UP?

I

remember when my pre-school teacher used to make us all go to the front to introduce ourselves: first our full names, then our ages, hobbies and interests. The last question would always be what we wanted to do in the future. The answers ranged from actress to zoologist.

I recently revisited my old kindergarten class and it was the same. One may call it naive, but once their brimming eyes looked confidently at me as they declared with their high-pitched voice their dream life, I could not help but believe them, hoping that their small wishes will eventually come true.

Fast forward to high school, 10 years later.

We’ve all outgrown midday naps and teddy bears — also, childhood dreams. In a recent conversation I had with some friends, I raised the same pre-K question that sounded so simple, but could be the subject of so much thought and reflection: What are you going to do in the future? The answers were more than disheartening. I heard abbreviations of names of tests or universities: SAT, UCLA, NYU, IELTS and so on.

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It was a no-brainer. I preferred the old answers.

Progressing Backwards Aren’t we supposed to be more and more sure of what we want to do as we grow up? It’s ironic that at an age when we didn’t even know what flavour of ice cream to choose at the moment, we could immediately say what we wanted in 10 or 20 years. Whilst now it’s the opposite.

When faced with the frightening question of the future looming ahead of us, most of my classmates respond with hesitation, a simple “I don’t know”, or hide behind the big names of their choice of university.

With all the knowledge we’ve accumulated, perhaps the problem is that we’ve been spoilt by choice. So many paths are opened in front of us and we find ourselves at the crossroad of it all, not knowing what to choose, where to go.

We are offered guidance. In my school, we have an hour dedicated to orientation class every week. But is that enough?

Most of the students find this hour fairly useless — all it does is present us with more choices, making the mist of confusion floating above our heads even thicker.

The Question Remains…

So what is it that we want to be in the end?

A wise man once said, there is a difference between the words ‘should’ and ‘must’. Should is easy, it is the things you do for the sake of appearance, the things people expect of you. But must is a calling, it’s what you have to do.

As the future rushes towards us like a strong wind, we seem to lose sight of our calling. In between the stress of our everyday responsibilities (i.e. homework) and the choices we are offered, the small voice within us that embodies our innermost desires seems to dwindle.

But to everyone in my generation faced with the same fears as I am, hesitation is not the answer. My best advice is to take a deep breath, dive ahead and as we go, we will make up our minds. Eventually. — To Thu Phuong

Ho Chi Minh City

BUSINESS BUFF // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // NON-FAMOUS PLACES // A WORLD OF GOOD // FOOD PROMOS PROVIDED BY ERIC MERLIN / EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES

HCMC

business

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES / EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS / RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS ACCOUNTING & AUDITING COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND PHIBIOUS DESIGN

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0220 globaleye.com

PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Tmg-group.com

ADVERTISING & MKTG BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com

DENTSU VIETNAM AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005 Dentsu.com.vn

GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933 3493 marketeersvietnam.com

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 3377 phibious.com An independent, creative– led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050 purpleasia.com

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Viet-

Let’s swim this June

get rid of the heat and indulge yourself in our swimming pool!

VND

1,718,000+ /night (1-bedroom apartment) VND

2,482,000+ /night (2-bedroom apartment)

Promotion includes use of: - Free Wi-Fi Internet - Shuttle bus & boat to District 1 - Local calls - All Riverside facilities * Terms & conditions applied: - Rates are not included with breakfasts and subject to 10% VAT - This promotion is applied for bookings made from 1 June 2014 - Cost for breakfast (not included 10% VAT) as below: Adult: VND 120,000+ /person Child: VND 60,000+ /child (under 12 years old) Riverside Serviced Apartments - Sales & Marketing Office: 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (+84 8) 37 444 111 ext. 216 | Email: sales@riverside-apartments.com Website: www.riverside-apartments.com

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nam to Australia.

RIVER ORCHID 10th Floor HDTC Building, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 2538 riverorchid.com

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM 4th Floor, Saigon Finance Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com.vn

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7858 Bdg-vietnam.com

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 1481 Concetti.vn

GRANT THORNTON

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL 38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100 Gt.com.vn

TRACTUS ASIA LTD

INSPIRED IMAGE

XAGE CONSULTANCY

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 Inspiredimage.co.uk

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES 4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 7305 0905 prism.com.vn

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

HCMC CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon.

For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com

CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com

ENDO 406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292 2045 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

venues to make any kind of event a success.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

EXPAT SERVICES

Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665 colliersmn.com/vietnam

CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237

HAPPY HOUSE

International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553

RESIDENT VIETNAM

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE 12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com

EVENT MANAGEMENT CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS Tel: 0906 761190 centerpiece-vn.com info@centerpiece-vn.com Centerpiece is an independent event planning company run by expatriates that can plan any event from private parties, to corporate events to weddings.

EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 evecoo.vn

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD 268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive

CREATION

JONES LANG LASALLE 26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968 joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management firm offering specialized real estate services to clients seeking increased value by owning, occupying and investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, they work and collaborate closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to their clients in Vietnam.

Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7968 cushmanwakefield.vn

EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.

Enquiries via their website are welcome.

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a leading property service provider

in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other services.

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest-vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE 49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661 baoviet.com.vn

IF CONSULTING IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

HCMC

BUSINESS BUFF WEIGHING UP THE ODDS

BY SHANE DILLON

in the US from 2007 to 2011, according to Richard Barrett from the United Nations

Left-Handed People Killed Using a Right-Handed Product 4,400,000 to 1 More than 2,500 left-handed people are killed every year around the world from using equipment meant for right-handed people. The right-handed power saw is the most deadly item.

Snake Bite 3,500,000 to 1 Snake bites kill an estimated 25,000 people a year. More people die from snakebite in India than in any other country in the world.

Falling off a Ladder 2,300,000 to 1 On average 15 people die from falling off ladders every year in the UK, and around 1,200 suffer serious injuries. A quarter of all falls happen off ladders.

Train Crash

A

s some of you may know I work in the insurance industry and while each of us is so unique in a myriad of ways, when you look at people as large groups (as insurers do) we are all a fairly predictable bunch. The fascinating things I see every day in regards to claims and user profiles, applications and medical histories show a sobering commonness in how much we are all the same.

So this month I decided to look up odds on some more of the unusual ways we are all likely to leave this planet spaceship we all cruise the universe aboard. So grab a drink, tell someone you love them and enjoy life while you can. Because we are all here for a limited time.

Shark Attack Odds: 370,000,000 to 1 Around 40 people are killed every year from shark attacks, with the numbers increasing as more people take holidays on coasts where sharks live.

Fairground Accident 300,000,000 to 1 The worst rollercoaster accident in Britain was in 1972 when five children were killed on the Big Dipper in Battersea,

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London — one of the cars broke loose and collided with another. In 2006, 29 people were injured when the Runaway Mine Train at Alton Towers split in two.

Falling Coconut 250,000,000 to 1 Coconuts apparently kill around 150 people every year. Falling from a height of 80 feet, they can build up an impact speed of 80km/h.

Plane Crash 11,000,000 to 1 Plane crashes worldwide claim 1,300 people every year. Young men are most likely to emerge from the wreckage alive.

12 percent of passengers who survive the impact will die from shock later.

Killed by Lightning 10,000,000 to 1 In the UK around five people are killed by being hit by lightning every year.

And men are four times more likely to be struck than women.

Terrorist Attack 20,000,000 to 1 The chance of dying in a terrorist attack

500,000 to 1 Despite a number of fatal crashes, public transport is still the safest way to travel.

Buses are even safer than trains, with the odds of being killed 13 million to one in the UK.

Road Accident 4,166 to 1 According the World Health Organization an estimated 1.24 million people die each year on the roads. Vietnam is ranked 22nd in the world for road fatalities.

Thailand is fifth.

Cancer 5 to 1 Over 500,000 people die from cancer every year in the US, of whom 250,000 are aged under 75. The most common killers are lung, breast, colon and prostate cancer.

Heart Attack or Stroke 2.5 to 1 By 2020 it will be the leading cause of death worldwide — coronary heart disease and strokes account for over 680 deaths every day in the USA alone.

Someone has a heart attack every two minutes in the UK. Shane works in the health insurance industry. He can be contacted at shanedillon@ bluecross.com.vn

HCMC BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 8th Floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.

Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IGLOBALASSIST Tel: 0934 874271 Iglobalassist.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn

PRUDENTIAL 25th F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1660 prudential.com.vn

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES VIETNAM Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le Loi, Q1 ten-pac.com An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies in Southeast Asia. A trusted partner for health, employee benefits and life insurance, the team at Tenzing has over 30 years’ experience providing insurance advice.

INTERIOR DESIGN PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND REMODELING Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren Hawk)

Thinking about upgrading a bathroom? Perhaps a new colour in the living room?

Maybe even a new wood floor? Professional Painting and Remodeling can help with these and many other projects. Provide international standards of quality as well as professional and timely service at reasonable rates. Call today to schedule a free evaluation.

L’ATELIER

INVESTMENT & FINANCE

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

DRAGON CAPITAL 1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP 27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0907 ethicalinvestmentgroup. co.uk

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t-wm.com

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market.

Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS ILA VIETNAM 146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3521 8788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com

VLS SAIGON

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com

VUS 189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1717 vietnamlaws.com

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com

FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com

INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com

MAYER BROWN JSM 17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com

MANAGEMENT TRAINING EMBERS ASIA 80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

TNS VIETNAM 58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631 Tnsvietnam.vn With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES DRAGON IMAGES Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660 dragonimages.asia Dragon Images production studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists. shooting administrators, casting managers and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications,

media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective public relations campaigns.

Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.

RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions.

Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. www.vieclambank.com info@vieclambank.com VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting executive and senior level, providing Vietnamese and Japanese candidates with

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HCMC

BODY

AND

TEMPLE

WEALTH IS HEALTH… OR IS IT?

V

ietnam is an amazing country — a developing country. Which brings many interesting situations in regard to health, wealth and longevity.

As personal wealth increases luxury, or seen to be luxury, items become more attainable and health has been proven to suffer. People are now living longer than ever before. However, I would suggest that this is not because populations are healthier, rather that medical and technological advances are keeping people alive longer. In other words, humans are now just sicker for longer.

The Vietnamese middle class is growing and with the introduction of McDonald’s, Starbucks, Burger King, KFC and Carl’s Junior, the the beginnings of a health versus wealth issue is being created. The more societies move away from a traditional diet, the unhealthier they become. A move away from farmed foods to store bought processed foodstuffs shares a trend with a rise in chronic diseases.

In 2004 almost 170,000 people died of cardiovascular diseases in Vietnam.

Infectious and parasitic diseases were the second largest killer, with approximately 67,000 deaths. Cardiovascular diseases are the biggest cause of death by a long way and these diseases are largely preventable.

When heart disease is mentioned, cholesterol is never far behind. Fast food is one of the biggest culprits of elevating total and LDL cholesterol levels.

The World Health Organisation (WHO) declares that “the prevalence of raised total

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BY PHIL KELLY

cholesterol increased noticeably according to the income of the country. In low income countries around a quarter of adults had raised total cholesterol, in lower middle income countries this rose to around a third of the population for both sexes. In high income countries, over 50 percent of adults had raised total cholesterol; more than double the level of the low income countries.”

The WHO shows that the incidences of elevated total cholesterol are highest in western societies (Europe 54 percent and The Americas, 48 percent) with the Southeast Asian Region sitting at 29 percent. Where our health should be our true wealth it is apparent that with wealth, societies lose their health.

There are many influencing factors within this topic. Lets keep it simple and look at five foods that are available in Vietnam and can help lower cholesterol and regain health.

less likely to clot and therefore clog up your blood vessels. Try to always have olive oil cold, as cooking can damage the beneficial substances

Almonds

Contain a substance called lycopene. Studies have shown that lycopene prevents LDL production. It also has been indicated that it helps to break down the LDL fats that are clogging arteries Health really is wealth. We can always make more money, but if we lose our health it’s very hard to get it back. Think wisely when making food choices and avoid fast foods.

Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com).

Contain a high amount of unsaturated fats, which help raise healthy HDL levels while lowering unhealthy LDL. These fats in almonds seem to impede the LDL cholesterol from blocking up your arteries by stopping them from oxidizing. One of the best snack foods available

Olive Oil Is high in monounsaturated fats, which like almonds aids to lower LDL and increase HDL. Olive Oil is rich in plant substances called phenolics. Phenolics make the blood

Asparagus Research has shown that steamed asparagus may act to bind more bile acids, which means your liver needs to use more LDL cholesterol to make additional bile, taking the unhealthy substance out of the bloodstream. Only steam vegetables for a maximum of 4 minutes so that the nutrients are not too damaged

Oatmeal The soluble fibre in oatmeal forms a gel like substance that hinders cholesterol from being absorbed into the bloodstream. Oats have the best source of soluble fibre of all the whole grains

Tomatoes

HCMC

PHUONG HA Canned food, candy and chocolate products, liquor, Russian caviar and frozen food Indian specialities, kids’ food and spices supplied for hotels and restaurants

— Cake Decoration Supplies — Cake Moulds and Pans — Cocktail Materials and Syrups

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HCMC KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS

experience studying abroad or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and competitive service suitable for many types of business.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RELOCATION AGENTS RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: 0908 460267 kidsclubsaigon.com

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com

SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279

SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults.

Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com

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7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850 seal.com.vn

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email info@ santaferelo.com.vn for info.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

PIANO CLASSES

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 www.asiantigers-mobility. com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES

2nd Floor Coteccons Office Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com

No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08) 3742 5678 enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

CITYVIEW

CROWN RELOCATIONS

1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111 cityview.com.vn

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres

Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

CHEZ GUIDO Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

EL GATO NEGRO Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

HUNGRYPANDA.VN www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

KFC Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

LOTTERIA Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

SCOOZI Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

WILLY WOO’S Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon.com US-style chicken and waffles

VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

HCMC

downtown

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

D

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com

BEER REPUBLIC

MODERN BEER HALL 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 0945 858034 facebook.com/BeerRepublic

BLANCHY’S TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 Blanchystash.com

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202. bootlegsaigon.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 0908 033982

DRUNKEN DUCK

EXPAT / SPORTS BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 2853 Subtle lighting, a pleasant ambience, a pool table and darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel of a drinking man's pub. A place to have fun, drink beer or spirits and get in with the party mood. Known for its 15 shooter challenge.

FUSE

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.vn

GAME ON

SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.com

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EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

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LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn

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TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments.

A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town.

Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.

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LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon.com Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

LAST CALL

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon.com

If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined.

Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON

FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR 9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0396 lerendezvousdesaigon.com With such a meaningful name - the meeting point - this wine bistro boasts a relaxed, friendly ambience, perfect for unwinding with an after work drink or to enjoy time with friends.

Reasonably priced, has a sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive old and new world wine list.

LEVEL 23 WINE BAR

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LUSH

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2496 lush.vn

O’BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon.com This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare,

large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

PACHARAN

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6024 pacharansaigon.com Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything Spanish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PHATTY’S

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 163

HCMC

COFFEE CUP UCC COFFEE

J

ust down the way from Starbucks on Nguyen Trai sits the first Vietnamese edition of UCC Coffee — Ueshima Coffee Company, a Japan-based multinational chain with its own style and mass-replicated appeal. Where Starbucks’ debut was a mix of buzz, lines and Facebook selfies, UCC Coffee hasn’t drummed up any of that in its first six months. And, in the quiet, modernist collection of nooks and comfortable, classically upholstered seats, one sees why they might have wanted it this way.

Although UCC has 650 similarly low-key cafés in Japan and abroad, they’re more active on the back-end than most chains — with coffee farms around the world and several coffee-connected concerns that help them attend the process “from cup to seed”. Maybe more notably, they took the process one step further in the space-age year of 1969, becoming the first company to put coffee in a can.

Now that we’re caught up, let’s step inside. Underneath the high rafters lies a clever coffee counter, well-appointed with espresso machines and waffle makers

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Photos by Francis Xavier

and a collection of syphon coffee brewers — the type that brew the coffee in their upper chamber by boiling the water in the lower chamber, then letting the result filter downward upon the heat’s removal. It’s a process that makes for a nice clean cup of acid-toned coffee, and UCC has varieties like Guatemalan, Jamaican Blue Mountain, Brazilian, Hawaiian Kona, Colombian Supremo and a house blend to choose from.

It’s Still a Chain Before you get too excited, though, take a look at the per-cup prices: ranging from VND50,000 for the house blend to VND200,000 for Blue Mountain No. 1.

The Guatemalan blend I tried lacked the clean edges I look for in a cup of syphon coffee. In speciality coffee consultant Will Frith’s estimation, “They are legit speciality, though their preferences are a bit bland and old school.” [A] Café (15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1) still makes the best syphon brew in town, at a better price point.

But chains don’t get popular off of stylistic brilliance, for the most part — they’re sought after for predictable products and atmosphere. And it’s

atmosphere where UCC really excels.

The interior is blessed with clean lines of wood and steel, and framed avant-garde angles of decaying Saigon colonials in nostalgic black-and-white. It has a calm, intimate feel that suits work or quiet conversation. There are three Wi-Fi hotspots in a space that measures something close to 60sqm.

The café is popular with Japanese expats, like Hide. “I like this café because it’s quiet,” he told me. “The coffee is good and... it’s hard to say... there are not many Vietnamese people coming here. That’s why it’s quiet.”

One of the other two patrons at that midafternoon hour was Vietnamese, although Cady admitted to liking Japanese-style hangouts like MOF. Like the other two, she was quietly absorbed in electronic pursuits.

“I like it because it’s quiet,” she said, “and the drinks are good. This is the best caramel latté I’ve tried.”

“Is it better than Starbucks?” I asked, the only question that came to mind.

“Mmm, yea,” she said, sipping her drink lower and lower. — Ed Weinberg UCC Coffee is at 106 Nguyen Trai, Q1

HCMC guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON SAIGON

HOTEL MUSIC BAR 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp.vn

VASCO’S

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2888 Vascosgroup.com A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

VELVET

DANCE/HIP HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet down-toearth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu.

Alternatively, buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

VINYL BAR

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu

to complement the old and new world wines.

XU

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior.

Regular DJ nights.

ZANZBAR

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375 Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting, international tapas and a laidback, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar on the river end of Dong Khoi. Popular with a businessy, international crowd.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Auparcsaigon.com Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

BACH DANG

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707

BASKIN ROBBINS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR 1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131 baskinrobbins.vn

CASBAH

MIDDLE EASTERN 59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

CENTRO

ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 7285 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAFÉ

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it’s fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.

FANNY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633 fanny.com.vn

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704 saigongivral.com

GOODY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339

HÄAGEN-DAZS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066

KITA COFFEE

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6799 Kita’s colonial-era building and bistro-style decor will have you thinking you’ve been transported to the streets of Europe. Pair your experience with an espresso-based Italian coffee from their Mediterraneanbased menu. Excellent sandwiches and salads.

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back.

Second location on Le Loi.

HCMC MAGONN THE CAFE 109 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9672 magonn.vn Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything from drinks to bites. Coming with a crowd? The attic is a quaint little spot to fit a cozy gathering.

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook.com/m2ccafe At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe.com.vn Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE PRINT ROOM

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection.

Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

TRUNG NGUYEN

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn

ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows.

The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE

LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

DEBENHAMS

ADULT & CHILDREN’S WEAR Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7592

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

DESIGN & JEWELLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE CASUAL & EVENING WEAR

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85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4004 Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs.

The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags.

Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA

BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com 9am to 9pm

L’USINE

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA

TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

MR & MRS SMITH

FACTORY OUTLET 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet sells a variety of clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam.

All designs are brand new, delivered from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices.

SONG

ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088 asiasongdesign.com

T&V TAILOR

TAILORS 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com

VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

COOKING CLASSES SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349

vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4201 bellavitafurniture.com

BOCONCEPT

DANISH FURNITURE 68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7357 boconcept.vn

DIABOLO

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803 9am to 8pm

EM EM

SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations.org

NGUYEN FRERES

NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS 83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.

(08) 3824 7456 ninhkhuong.vn

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 69 Dong Khoi, Q1

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.org

NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 www.nhaxinh.com

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

EAT 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631

AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.

Excellent delivery service.

ASHOKA

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant. com Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and

HCMC mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

BUN CHA HA NOI

BUN CHA 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

CENTRAL PARC BANH MI

BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 barbecuegarden.com

BASILICO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon

BEIRUT

LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2188

BIBI@ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

BLACK CAT

AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.

BLANCHY STREET

JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink

7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New York-themed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels.

Excellent delivery service.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.

DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

GANESH

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn

GRILLBAR

AIRCON STREETFOOD 122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901 facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes,

typical of the barbecue fare you’d find on the street, and then add in three types of rice and a range of organic products. Close to Ben Thanh Market, this is com binh dan

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE 7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico.

Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

LE JARDIN

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu.

Check out their pepper steaks.

KABIN

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAI

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LE BANH MI 12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036

L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA CUISINE

lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LUCCA

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3691 A contemporary trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a beautifully designed space with high ceilings. The menu features both traditional antipasti and substantial main courses.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com

NHA HANG NGON

VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

OMG!

FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1

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HCMC

TOP EATS QUAN UT UT

A

s a westerner in Ho Chi Minh City it’s fairly easy to satisfy most food cravings: pizza, tacos, fish and chips, Sunday roast — you can even get late night McDonald’s.

One cuisine that is lacking, though, is good ol’ fashioned American barbecue.

Vietnam is fairly expert in grilled meats, but a rack of ribs smothered in barbecue sauce and accompanied by disgustingly unhealthy sides? That’s another beast entirely.

Enter Quan Ut Ut — otherwise known as Restaurant Oink Oink. Opened in late March on Vo Van Kiet near the Ong Lanh Bridge, this American BBQ spot is dishing out everything from tender pork shoulder to classic sides like corn bread, creamed spinach, and mac and cheese.

Ut Ut is hard to miss, and if the crowds of people sitting outdoors don’t grab your attention, the huge spatula-wielding pig mascot out front certainly will. Patrons sit on wooden picnic tables and chairs, a mix between classic Americana and Vietnamese street style.

Start it Up Starters are a definite must, specifically

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Photos by Kyle Phanroy

the Kickin’ Chicken Skin, which is as fried, crunchy and golden as their menu suggests, and the Memphis Bourbon Oyster Shooter, a good option to get the party started. Skip others like the breaded shiitake mushroom bombs — while good, your appetite should be saved for the more mouth-watering options to follow.

Once the first course is finished, go straight for the barbecue. Meats such as crispy pork belly, spicy Italian sausage, and southern fried chicken are prepared on numerous outdoor smokers and grills. Be warned: barbecue options are portioned to serve one or two people, so if you’re hungry you may not want to share.

It’s hard to go wrong with the barbecue selection, but the best is easily their halfrack cashew-smoked ribs (VND300,000).

With a nice, dark, slightly crispy skin on top, the meats falls easily off the bone with a gentle tug of a finger or fork. Make sure to add a little homemade Ut Ut sauce to get that extra flavour.

From their Facebook page: “Thick and delicious cashew smoke kisses the ribs and imparts their subtle seductiveness and complexity. When the ribs hit your

tongue, you should taste a rainbow of different notes — like when drinking a good wine — popping up and then fading away.”

Wash it Down No barbecue experience is complete without beer, and luckily Ut Ut has plenty of options. This month they’ll (hopefully) start serving a draught Platinum Pale Ale (VND40,000/glass) made by an Australian brewery new to Vietnam. Their beer list also includes some hard-to-find American favourites such as Pacifico, Blue Moon and Kona, although availability is on-and-off due to importation.

If beer doesn’t quite quench your thirst, go for the bottomless iced tea — and we’re not talking about tra da. This is southern-style sweet iced tea, and a bottomless glass is only VND25,000.

Flavours such as strawberry, raspberry and blueberry are changed daily, but let’s be honest, you’ll probably get a chance to try them all.

After all, Quan Ut Ut always leaves you coming back for more. — Margaret Smith Quan Ut Ut is at 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, or at quanutut.com

A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

OSAKA RAMEN

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu backed up by a compact wine list from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PASHA

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677 pasha.com.vn Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

PROPAGANDA

CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

QUAN BUI 2

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 With its leafy roof garden and chic interior, Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open kitchen.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

REFLECTIONS

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

Good for events.

SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

TANDOOR

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Tandoorvietnam.com

TEMPLE CLUB

SAIGON CAFÉ

PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

SEOUL HOUSE

THE BURGER CORNER

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300.

INTERNATIONAL 43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094

THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON 54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079 swisshousesaigon.com Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.

HCMC

NON-FAMOUS PLACES 213 DONG KHOI

— whose unconsulted demolition kickstarted the modern historic preservation movement nationwide. About the transition to the modern, utilitarian Penn Station, Scully said, “One entered the city like a god.

One scuttles in now like a rat.”

Crossroads

Illustration by Lys Bui

In an ongoing series originally published on the blog From Saigon, Non-Famous Places seeks to take readers to Ho Chi Minh City landmarks left off most maps, whose stories make up the very fabric of the city itself

I

f you pass 213 Dong Khoi today, you’ll see temporary wooden walls postered with pictures of The Reunification Palace, the People’s Committee Building, the Opera House, Ben Thanh Market and a blooming lotus. Many of Saigon’s symbols are accounted for — but not the posthumously famous one whose Art Deco rubble threatens to overwhelm the three-metre-high walls.

To some it’s natural for buildings like 213 to come down, as Dong Khoicentred downtown continues its march to skyscraper-dotted prosperity. But nowhere on HCMC House Trade Management Co. Ltd’s banner is there a Vincom Center or a Bitexco.

On either side of the temporary wall where 213 used to stand are old constructions. One is a former part of the demolished building — its insides now gutted, its 213-facing side open to the elements — the other is the People’s Committee Building, a relic of the same era, but with a perfectly maintained facade, floodlit at night. Across the streets that 213 used to corner on are the twin presences

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of Vincom Centers A and B, threatening to overwhelm them all.

Buildings with Souls Vincent Scully, one of the US’s leading architectural critics over the past century, wrote in a 1985 New York Times article, “Nothing shows up more definitively in a building than a lack of love, unless it is the love of money.”

He wrote this at a time when New York City was at a crossroads, in the process of leaving behind its checkered past for a more prosperous future. Scully’s worry on seeing the towers of modern New York rise was that they “look[ed] devoid of life; their surfaces are closed and dead”. They were no longer part of the city below, and upon entering one had to leave the atmosphere of the city for a closed-off, air-conditioned world.

Scully felt that an architect’s responsibility was to design “buildings that fit, in a civilized manner, into the man-made environment”. At a different crossroads in New York history, Scully was a vocal critic of the 1963 destruction of the original Beaux-Arts-styled Penn Station rail terminal

Saigon is at a crossroads now, similar to the one New York faced in 1963. Modern New York was built on the bones of demolished buildings — there wouldn’t be a Times Square without them.

But modern New York was also born of the historic consciousness of its public.

Three years after Penn Station fell, the National Historic Preservation Act became law. Such an integral part of New York’s fabric never fell again.

213 Dong Khoi wasn’t the original Penn Station, but it was a building that mattered to many people, a building with 85 years of history and point-of-reference status in cultural touchstones like The Quiet American.

And now it’s been excised from the modern city forever.

Tim Doling was prominently involved with raising consciousness about 213, and he thinks that its loss “might not have been completely in vain... It has received a great deal of publicity, and many concerned local people (not just expats!) now seem to be questioning the speed at which old buildings are being destroyed in Ho Chi Minh City.”

For the rest of us, there’s a new concern on the horizon. The 126-year-old former Cochinchina government secretariat at 59 - 61 Ly Tu Trong, directly behind 213 Dong Khoi, has been slated for ‘renovation’.

Recessed from the street, it’s not as immediate a landmark as 213, but it has been a foundational block of the modern city for as long as it has existed. It’s one of those buildings that we won’t miss until it’s gone, until it’s only a fading photograph from old Saigon.

But there might be some hope for compromise here, the kind we’ll need for the modern city to resemble its past. Tim says, “I hear they are commissioning a new competition for designs which retain/ incorporate the old building rather than destroy it.

“I really hope that the powers that be will recognise the heritage value of that building and find an alternative solution to demolition.” — Ed Weinberg The From Saigon blog is at from-saigon. tumblr.com. Site selection and guidance comes from Tim Doling. To see his work on the history of Vietnam, go to historicvietnam.com

HCMC TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8433 yamaneko–vn.com Funky Yamaneko — down an alley off Le Thanh Ton — offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Does a great set lunch deal.

YU CHU

TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA ANUPA YOGA 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net/yoga-anupa

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 5999 Cfyc.com.vn

NUTRIFORT

GENERAL FITNESS 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8560 nutrifort.com Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

HEALTH CLUB & GYM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

SHERATON FITNESS

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

THE LANDMARK CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 dogmacollection.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate.

Sells prints of the originals and related products.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441

baotangmythuattphcm.vn

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3181 07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3166 phuongmaigallery.com

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town.

Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

BACCHUS CORNER

WINE SHOP 158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3306 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

WINE SHOP 74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4376 kimhai.vn

PHUONG HA

GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318

RED APRON

WINE SHOP 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0021

THAI HA

GROCERS 60 Ham Nghi, Q1

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE SHOP 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled min-

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A WORLD

OF

CELEBRITY HANDWRINGING

I

n the rabble and noise created by nonprofits vying for donors’ limited attention and ever-shrinking funding pools, an enterprising NGO needs a plan — a brilliant plan!

Enter the celebrity endorsement. They’re great for raising gazillions for the aid agencies that can harness the gods and goddesses of fame. These stars typically raise awareness on topics people are unlikely to care about, such as deadly strife in distant lands or the plight of migrants.

Celebrities can bring reach, exposure and a level of imminence to global issues and much needed cash. It should be win-win.

Not, however, according to one Canadian professor who calls celebrity activism ‘humanitainment’. Dr. Ian Kapoor of York University says the rich and famous are merely exercising brand extension opportunities. He may have a point. After all, who decided that Bono is an expert on HIV/AIDS or Bob Geldof is the go-to guy on structural deficit?

Critics argue this dependency on glamour means the rest of us transpose our fleeting concern to a glorified, but unaccountable jet set, while the celebrities disguise narcissism with altruism. There’s no lack of examples.

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Angelina Jolie accepts humanitainment awards created especially for her. Naomi Campbell broke her vow on fur. Scarlett Johansson and Oxfam. George Clooney and Sudan. The particularly wrongheaded #BringBackOurGirls hashtag. (Where was the storm of Twitter tut-tutting when Boko Haram murdered school boys this past February?) It’s also fair to point out the organisation I work for partners with celebrity chefs with cultural ties to Vietnam for fundraising because we feel it’s a sensible fit.

The Perfect Match?

However, the following is not a sensible fit. Insert a random television actor into a country they don’t know, can’t name and with an INGO whose mission they didn’t ask about. Go abroad for heart-wrenching publicity purposes and this is what you end up with. “I get the impression that in Africa people have sex far more freely than we do back home,” remarked Downton Abbey star Elizabeth McGovern on a trip to Sierra Leone. “I wonder if World Vision would take on the problem of women wearing the burka. And that clitoris thing is awful.” Eye-watering, isn’t it?

Do the people affected by famine or

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

trafficking really need our pouting selfies, tear-stained tweets and petulant calls for someone (typically the US military) to “do something”? Do the armchair slacktavists help or hinder? Perhaps what’s needed is less emphasis on starwattage and instead on creating space for genuine experts to weigh in on these philanthropic debates with, well, expert opinion. Ending the horror of (insert cause here) isn’t going to happen with a hashtag or a plastic bracelet or because a rock star wishes it so. Educate yourself about the women and men who have been working for decades trying to “do something” in the country where (insert cause here) happens. Focus on what real action you can take with your local government to bring political pressure on the issues you care about. Express your support for the unsung campaigners in the field striving for transformative change.

Let these communities champion their own spokespersons and ambassadors.

Who knows, they might even turn into celebrities.

Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth. She can be contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au

HCMC eral water and spirits.

VEGGY’S

GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526

VINIFERA

WINE SHOP 7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0860 viniferavn.com

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.

Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

HAIRDRESSERS VENUS 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298

MEDICAL & DENTAL ACCADENT

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)

FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

SALONS & SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 aquadayspasaigon.com

FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies.

Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn

Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

MEKONG BLISS SPA 112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 0563 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm)

Q SPA & SALON 31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08) 3905 4609 Qspaandsalon.com An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage.

Also offers hair styling and facials.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0885

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB 22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn

THE SPA Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9007 Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800 thespavietnam.com

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

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FOOD PROMOS

Provided by Park Hyatt

The Emperor of Chefs Culinary legend Auguste Escoffier — chef to emperors, kitchen runner of the Ritz Carlton, inventor of Melba toast — is being celebrated at the Caravelle Hotel from Jun. 21 to Jun. 27, with a showcase of the fin-de-siècle master’s recipes from Le Guide Culinary. Known for giving the world the ‘a la carte’ menu, as well as classic French dishes such as Tournedos Rossini, Omelette Arnold Bennett and Cherries Jubilee, Escoffier catered to European royalty and established kitchens in some of

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the world’s grandest hotels over the course of a 62-year career. Experience Escoffier’s genius in a four-course Auguste Escoffier Degustation Menu at Reflections — priced at VND1,488,000++.

The Artistry of Auguste Escoffier is on-hand at Reflections at the Caravelle Hotel — 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1 — from Jun. 21 to Jun. 27. For more information, call (08) 3823 4999 or email eam-fb@caravellehotel.com

Macaroon Month June is Macaroon Month at the Park Hyatt,

with Head Chef of Pastry Bertrand Sommereux leading the way. These bitesized slices of perfection will accompany every tea and coffee order, in blueberry, vanilla, strawberry, chocolate, coffee, matcha and salted caramel varieties.

Originally from France, this sweet meringue-based confection is well-loved by gourmets around the world. A chef’s selection of assorted macaroons is also available for VND170,000++.

Macaroon Month is June at the Park Hyatt.

Check parkhyatt.com for more info

HCMC GINKGO

pham ngu lao

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / GALLERIES BAKERIES CRUMBS

BAKERY 117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

TOUS LES JOURS

KOREAN BAKERY 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350

BARS & CLUBS BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI 33 Bui Vien, Q1

BREAD & BUTTER

ternational and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the name of that most special of sounds — the one from Jamaica.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

GO2

SPOTTED COW

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9575

GODMOTHER BAR

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty in-

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup.com Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

THE OBSERVATORY

BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440 theobservatory-hcmc.com The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao. With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines café culture, cocktails, art, DJ nights — now the home base for the Optimist Club — live music and various "hap-

penings", sprinkling them throughout its cozy corners.

THI CAFÉ

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929

T&R TAVERN

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9839

UNIVERSAL BAR

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com

CAFES BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fast-food style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge.

Check website for movie locations and schedule.

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

MARATHON

BUDGET CLOTHING 147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019

PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com

ORANGE

BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm

U.BEST HOUSE

TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9780

EAT

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE 213 Bui Vien, Q1 facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BAM SKATE SHOP

SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BLUE DRAGON

SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm

BABA’S KITCHEN

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

BURRITO REVOLUTION

TEX-MEX / STREET STALL 124 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902 714882

CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311

JJ’S FISH ‘N CHIPS

FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De Tham, Q1

LA CANTINA

TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE 175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

MARGHERITA

ITALIAN / TEX-MEX 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

SISTERS CAFE

VIETNAMESE/WESTERN 185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 Light wood paneling, beige walls and locally themed artwork help to create a fresh and airy ambience in this café-cum-restaurant that is owned by the woman behind Chi’s Café. Also does visa extensions and motorbike rental.

THE HUNGRY PIG

BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar.

A popular hangout.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

WRAP & ROLL 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check out the second floor, junglein-the-wall décor at this particular branch. Unique and refreshing.

infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

GALLERIES GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city.

Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.

Pricing depends on size and style.

LAC VIET TATTOO 608

Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068 lacviettattoo.com

SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart.com

SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO

31B Nguyen Du, Q1 saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO GROUP 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat.vn

TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI

209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat.com

ZEUS

GREEK / KEBAB 164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespa-

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

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district 1

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

D

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 0906 780081

CHILL SKYBAR

LOUNGE RESTOBAR & TERRACE Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Chill’s view has only been improved by the addition of a magnificent VIP terrace.

A substantial wine list and specialities from the owner’s native Denmark complement the primarily French-influenced cuisine.

HOA VIEN

CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com

SHOOTERS BEER HOUSE

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 31 Le Quy Don, Q1

VUVUZELA

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 11 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2281

BOOKS LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.

Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com

CAFES (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701

1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003 sam.nguyen197@gmail.com A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien.com Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3833 3648 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3844 3295 saigongivral.com

KEM NHAN

ICE CREAM PARLOUR 4 Truong Han Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 6763

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LE PETIT CAFÉ

BOSSINI

GAYA CLOTHING

THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook.com/thingscafe Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

HAND-MADE / DESIGNER Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 Gayavietnam.com Clothing is designed and tailor-made by renowned designer Romyda Keth, and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. Gaya sells colourful, sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops.

THUY NGA DESIGN

BUSINESSWEAR / CASUAL 19-21 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 3574 thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOO

STREETWEAR 134 Nguyen Trai, Q1 boo.vn

GAYA

Huu C Ng uy en g

Ng .H ue

Ham Nghi

District 2 t Kie

District 4

Vo

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE

2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272 facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

cT ha n

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FRENCH 112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2067

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE

M

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UNISEX CASUAL WEAR 22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3839 2292 Bossini.com

4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400 facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

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L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.

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District 10

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BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)

BANKSY CAFE

District 3

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QUAN NHAU 18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1

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Hu ng

ANH DUC’S

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

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CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 79 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel: 0919 584884 info@ahoybeerclub.vn

I.D. CAFÉ

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AHOY BEER CLUB

Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

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BARS & CLUBS

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CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 gayavietnam.com

Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

EAT BANH XEO 46A

BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1110

CAFÉ IF

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

COBALT

ROOFTOP RESTOBAR Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullman-saigon-centre.com A tapas-style contemporary international menu in an equally modern chic space, Cobalt also has panoramic views over the city thanks to its 30th-floor location. Has a focus on wine matching and tasting. A hotel restaurant

with a difference.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU

COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0935 comtamthuankieu.com.vn

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

MAY RESTAURANT

INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1277 May-cloud.com Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.

HCMC MONSOON

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

QUAN UT UT

AMERICAN VIETNAMESE GRILL 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 quanutut.com On-site American grilltype fare in a Vietnamese, wooden table setting. Think ribs, burgers and all things hearty at this immensely popular eatery.

PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

PHAP HOA

VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3839 5893

QUAN BUI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

TAN HAI VAN

PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0824

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA STAR FITNESS GYM

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & POOL Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9009 saigonriverclub.com

GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0183 San-art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CITYSMART Horizon Tower, 214 Tran Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3526 8833 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn

VAS 23 Tran Cao Van, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7278 vas.edu.vn re.com MEDICAL & DENTAL

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice.

com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

WE LINK

COUNSELLING 64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.

SALONS & SPAS CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.

SPA TROPIC

79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

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HCMC

district 2

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

DISTRICT 2

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Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Home décor orders are also available.

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BAKERY 244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8392 The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien, Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries such as croissants, pain au chocolat, pain raisins, pizza dough, pates feuillete and much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and Ho Chi Minh City.

LOAVES & FISHES

BAKERY / CAFE 5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4118 harvestbaking.net

PAT A CHOU

FRENCH BAKERY 25 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3743 2445

VOELKER

BAKERY 39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

BARS & CLUBS BAAN THAI

SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE

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Lộ

DISTRICT 2 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports.

The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

BMV PUB & GRILL 38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel: 01299 839314 facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill With its seven TVs, full-size mezzanine area, pool table and aircon lounge space, BMV is the perfect place in District 2 to relax and watch the sports. Has live music on Thursday and Friday nights, and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in Thao Dien.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

MCSORLEY’S

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126 9026006 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of

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CHI LAI

HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

FEELING TROPIC surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

SAIGON OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

THE FAN CLUB

SPORTS BAR Ground Floor, The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, Q2 dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub 12 quality screens and eight draught beers, music spun

by DJs, excellent burgers, quiz nights and barbecues.

All in an attractive, contemporary environment.

CAFES AGNES CAFE

COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offers a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with

a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Now open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed and intimate.

CAFÉ EVITA

LAID-BACK CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 230A Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 3888

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES LITTLE ANH-EM

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE AUSTIN HOME

REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors.com

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above.

Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks.

Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

EAT AGNES CAFÉ

CAFÉ FARE / TEX-MEX 11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable café offering up a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Open until 10pm.

BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA 126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX Trading Centre 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

HCMC SPORTS

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

LA CLOSERIE D’ELISA

CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL

AND

RUGBY

024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr

SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com

SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints.com

SPORTS — GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans.com

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON gauloisdesaigon.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com

Contact Fred on 0919 709

FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT 52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 A tropical garden ambience that is at once French yet contemporary Indochinese is the home of this table d’hote style restaurant and bar. Classic French cuisine at reasonable prices in the heart of Thao Dien.

LA PLANCHA 25 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8521

LU BU

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant.com Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.

Has petanque on the terrace.

Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

THE LOOP

HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS 49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA AQUAFIT

AQUABIKING 65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 008985 aquafit.vn

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 540030

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)

GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and

personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER

BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril Terrones, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril’s clients love. Includes Zumba, salsa, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10. Also has kids classes. Boxing on Tuesday and Saturday at 4pm and circuit training on Thursday at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE 100%

MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES 26B Thao Dien, Q2 100percentvn.com

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.

PAPAGAYO

FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS 18 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q3, Tel: (08) 6252 1333 facebook.com/papagayosaigon

TAMAGO

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms.

They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on

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HCMC Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines with a portfolio spanning old and new world as well as everything in between.

The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new tipple.

HAIRDRESSERS ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon. com.vn

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc.com The only fully authorized IB World School in Ho Chi Minh City, ISHCMC has been awarding graduates with an IB Diploma and sending them off to high-profile overseas universities since 1999.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.

Tel: (08) 7300 7257 info@eishcmc.com www.eishcmc.com Located in the heart of Thao Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum.

EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

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SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 theamericanschool.edu.vn

KIDS FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM www.firstBIKE.com.vn FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

MEDICAL & DENTAL

district 3

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS BARS & CLUBS ACOUSTIC

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars.

Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951

CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS

LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE 224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948 031323

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

GREGORY BEALE

THERAPY 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 01268 654 202 gregbealetherapyfitness. com

SALONS & SPAS AUTHENTIC SPA Thao Dien Village, Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222

AVEDA HERBAL SPA

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

WOODSTOCK BAR

MUSIC BAR / CAFE 39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.

Tel: (08) 39304075 metallicbar.com Showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music starts at 8.30pm.

PLAN B

CONTEMPORARY BAR 147 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 0987 684761

ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

ROCK BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08) 6290 7489

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 3398

BUD’S

ICE-CREAM PARLOUR 171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 2778 budsicecream.com.vn

HIDEAWAY

INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0169 3583563 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

BANH CANH HOANG TY

BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

JOIE DE VIVRE

WESTERN / FRENCH 292/10, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066 facebook.com/joie.vn

PHO HOA

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BOO STREETWEAR 187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 boo.vn CRAFTS

& FURNITURE

REMIX DECO

INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com

EAT AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, is hand carved at your table. Can get busy.

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Tibrestaurant.com.vn

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SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908 453 338 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

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of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

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SALONS & SPAS VIET CHAY

VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 vietchay.vn

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9429 saigonbellydance.com

HAIRDRESSERS FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY

YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 michelle@michellelloyd.com michellelloyd.com American trained and licensed massage therapist and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and massage spaces in Districts 2 and 3. Private and group yoga classes. Home visits available.

YKC HAIR STUDIO

recognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278 vas.edu.vn

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791

MEDICAL & DENTAL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC CITYSMART 7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationally-

dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC

CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www.acc.vn A clinic provides world class Chiropractic, Physiotherapy and Foot Care. We specialize in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries, and all types of foot problems. We also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome in children and adult.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service.

Orthodontics is also available.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider

AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 181

HCMC complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

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BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL Đông yễn Ch

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BAKERIES L’AMOUR

BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery.com.vn

SAVOURE

BAKERY Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

SIMRANS

BAKERY SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908 828552 simrans.sg

BARS & CLUBS BANANA BAR

EXPAT BAR SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3282 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.

PEACHES

CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more.

A popular local haunt.

RUBY SOHO

CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900

THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody.

Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7355 bellavitafurniture.com

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110; S17 – Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-creations.org

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-quilts.org

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NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com

EAT BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

CHAM CHARM

LUXURY INDOCHINA 2 Phan Van Chuong, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 9999

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304

MING DYNASTY

LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 5555

NATHALIE’S

THAI / VIETNAMESE S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0822 nathaliesrestaurant.com

SALT & PEPPER

PAN-ITALIAN The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 4848

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277 The-crescent.com Overlooking the Crescent

Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.

Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 kindermusik-vietnam.com

LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 lgkids.vn

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance.edu.vn Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool,

mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

MEDICAL & DENTAL

AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn. com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience.

The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments.

Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

FV HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

Tình Yêu Trong Chiến Trận

Bà gặp ông khi cả hai cùng chiến đấu cùng nhau lúc 18 tuổi. Rồi ông bà lấy nhau ngay trên mặt trận Điện Biên Phủ. Lúc đó chiến tranh, ông bà chỉ cần vài ba người bạn lính, một vài bao thuốc, gói kẹo và một tràng pháo tay, thế là cưới. Những thứ khác được coi là xa xỉ lắm.

Bà giờ 101 tuổi rồi. Ông bà cứ thế ở bên nhau cho tới khi ông mất hai năm về trước. Đứa con trai đuổi ông bà ra khỏi nhà, thậm chí nó còn đánh cả cha ruột mình. Ông bà mất hết mọi thứ phải khó khăn kiếm được.

Thế là ông bà phải ăn xin và nhặt rác để sống qua ngày, đến đêm thì ngủ ở đây. Rồi ông mất sau một tuần ho và sốt. Lúc nào bà cũng mang di ảnh của ông bên mình. Giờ bà làm cái gì, bà cũng nhớ tới ông. Nhớ nhiều lắm.

Con Người Hà Nội C ó bao giờ bạn tự hỏi, người bán trái cây rong hay bà cụ ngồi cong lưng ở góc đường đang nghĩ gì? Nhóm Humans of Hanoi (tạm dịch là Con Người Hà Nội) xuất hiện trên Facebook với mong muốn nắm bắt những khoảnh khắc thoáng qua này. Lấy cảm hứng từ phiên bản cực kỳ thành công của Humans of New York, nhóm nhiếp ảnh gia này miêu tả cuộc sống hàng ngày của người dân Hà Nội. Mười

nhiếp ảnh gia rong ruổi khắp thành phố để tìm kiếm những khoảnh khắc đẹp, và triết lý của cuộc sống của họ là bất kì ai cũng có những nỗi niềm riêng. Nhóm dường như đã trở thành một hiện tượng mới, và vào thời điểm mà Word số tháng này được mang đi in, trang Facebook của nhóm đã đạt được gần 27000 lượt yêu thích.

Sau đây là một vài mẫu chuyện nho nhỏ trong bộ sưu tập của họ (đã được tóm lược so với bản gốc)

Đôi Tình Nhân Khác Màu Da

Humans of Hanoi: Vậy ai ngõ lời yêu trước?

Người Nam: Ồ, người Wales chúng tôi không bao giờ nói yêu ai trước cả. Đó là truyền thống đấy.

Người Nữ: Người Việt Nam cũng thế mà.

Những cảm xúc bên trong — cả hai chúng tôi đều biết mặc dù không cần phải nói ra.

Hai Anh Em Sinh Đôi

Humans of Hanoi: Các em thích điều gì nhất?

Hai Anh Em Sinh Đôi: Đi học ạ!

Mẹ Nuôi: Chúng là anh em sinh đôi đấy.

Chúng mắc chứng bệnh tăng động giảm trí nhớ, một đứa thì lại bị thêm hở hàm ếch nữa. Tôi cho chúng đi học tiểu học mấy lần rồi nhưng khó cho chúng quá nên hai đứa giờ phải quay về trường mẫu giáo thôi. Bố mẹ đẻ thì bỏ chúng khi thấy không thể nuôi nổi. Họ sống dưới quê, bố chúng thì vẫn ở đấy. Còn người mẹ thì bỏ đi lâu rồi…

Để biết thêm về Humans of Hanoi, xin ghé facebook.com/humansofhanoi và humansofhanoi.tumblr.com.

Mọi đăng ký thành viên xin gửi qua trang web Tumblr

Humans of Hanoi: Điều gì làm hai bạn yêu nhau?

Người Nữ: Anh ấy mời tôi đi uống bia. Anh ấy "đổ" vì tôi trước.

Người Nam: Không, cô ấy "đổ" vì tôi trước đấy chứ. Cô ây còn mang thuốc cho tôi khi tôi bị ốm này.

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 183

Chèo Thuyền và Kết Bạn Chèo thuyền ở Hồ Tây giờ đây không chỉ là đặc quyền của đội tuyển quốc gia nữa. David Mann đã mặc áo phao vào và gặp gỡ Câu lạc bộ Hanoi Kayak.

Kayak. Ảnh bởi Julie Vola

C

hèo thuyền ngay giữa Hồ Tây Hà Nội là một cảm giác thật kỳ lạ. Dòng nước êm ả, thành phố trông thật bình yên và khi đó, những tiếng còi xe vào một buổi sáng sớm hối hả chỉ còn là một âm thanh vọng lại từ xa. Bỗng chốc, thành phố bảy triệu dân được thu nhỏ lại là thành phố của một vài người đánh cá và những chiếc thuyền hai người chèo.

Buổi sáng hôm tôi tham gia Câu lạc bộ Kayak là một buổi luyện tập vào Chủ Nhật của họ, nhiệt độ dễ chịu ở 25oC (và đang tăng dần lên nhanh chóng). Khoảng hơn mười người tụ tập tại câu lạc bộ chèo thuyền – trong đó, một số thành viên thường xuyên tham gia, một số khác là những người mới và họ nghe nói đến câu lạc bộ này qua lời truyền miệng từ bạn bè.

“Phần lớn thành viên là người Việt Nam nhưng càng ngày càng có nhiều người nước ngoài đến với chúng tôi,” Thụy Bột nói – anh là người sáng lập ra câu lạc bộ này cùng với Trung, anh trai của mình.

Sau lần đầu tiên chèo thuyền ở Vịnh Hạ Long, hai anh em đã thành lập ra câu lạc bộ để khuyến khích thêm nhiều người Hà Nội trải nghiệm bộ môn này. Câu lạc bộ hiện giờ có khoảng 20 thành viên, và hàng tháng đều có thành viên mới gia nhập. Cuối cùng, họ hi vọng rằng câu lạc bộ sẽ đủ lớn để tạo thành các đội và tham gia vào các giải đua trên cả nước.

184 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com

“Tháng Ba cả nhóm đã chèo thuyền tới Hải Phòng và đảo Cát Bà,” Thụy nói tiếp. “Chuyến đi tiếp theo của chúng tôi sẽ là đảo Quan Lạn ở Quảng Ninh.”

Câu lạc bộ đón nhận những tay chèo thuyền ở mọi trình độ, mọi kinh nghiệm và trên thực tế, mặc dù nhiều thành viên tham gia chỉ để thử một bộ môn mới, nhưng sau đó, phần lớn họ trở nên tâm huyết với bộ môn này không kém gì anh, Thụy nói.

“Rất nhiều người nghiện bộ môn này ngay lần đầu tiên tôi đưa họ ra ngoài. Vì nó rất vui và cũng rất dễ.”

Tất nhiên không phải là những người có kinh nghiệm hơn không được chào đón ở đây, vì có tới hai thành viên của câu lạc bộ đã giành được giải đua chèo thuyền toàn quốc tại Đà Nẵng tháng trước.

Dòng Nước Trắng Xóa

Ben Eichhorn, người đã tham gia vào câu lạc bộ bốn tháng trước, nói rằng mặc dù Hồ Tây chắc chắn không phải điểm tuyệt vời nhất ở Việt Nam để chèo thuyền, nhưng nó chắc chắn là một khởi đầu tốt cho những người mới bắt đầu.

“Một vài dòng suối tuyệt nhất ở Việt Nam nằm ở tỉnh Lào Cai – vì có những đoạn rất bằng phẳng và một số đoạn rất dốc tạo ra dòng chảy trắng xóa để trải nghiệm kayak.”

“Nhưng chèo thuyền ở đây cũng thú vị chứ,” anh nói thêm. “Mọi người rất thân thiện và nồng nhiệt, vì thế đây cũng là một cơ hội tốt để giao lưu và kết bạn.”

Câu lạc bộ rất cởi mở đến nỗi mà kể cả những người đứng xem một cách tò mò cũng được phép khoác chiếc áo bơi vào rồi tự mình thử sức chèo thuyền. Hồng Nguyễn, người đứng xem chúng tôi chèo ở đoạn lên đường Vân Hồ nói rằng cô ấy đã ngay lập tức bị thuyết phục và tham gia chỉ sau năm phút chèo thuyền trên hồ.

“Rất dễ và cũng thật vui. Tôi chắc chắn sẽ quay trở lại đây,” cô nói trong khi cởi chiếc áo phao ra khỏi chiếc váy hè màu đen trắng của mình.

Nhóm này gặp nhau vào mỗi sáng Chủ Nhật hàng tuần để chèo thuyền và thông báo qua trang facebook của nhóm. Những người không phải thành viên có thể thuê thuyền với giá 150.000VNĐ cho giờ đầu tiên và thêm 50.000VNĐ cho mỗi giờ tiếp theo. Một lựa chọn khác là bạn có thể trở thành thành viên với hội phí là 500.000VNĐ một tháng và có thể sử dụng không giới hạn thuyền kayak trong khoảng thời gian từ 6-8 giờ sáng và 5-6 giờ chiều, bảy ngày trong tuần. Để biết thêm thông tin về câu lạc bộ Hanoi Kayak, gửi email tới địa chỉ kayakhanoi@gmail. com hoặc truy cập website: kayakhanoi.com

Loại Rau Quả Ấy Vì một cuộc sống tốt đẹp hơn, Matt Bender đã tìm hiểu công dụng của trái khổ qua.

Hình ảnh bởi Kyle Phanroy

K

hổ qua, hay còn gọi là mướp đắng, có rất nhiều công dụng và chứa đựng một câu chuyện nguồn gốc xa xưa đằng sau. Đối với những ai quan tâm đến lịch sử văn hóa — hay những người có hình xăm chữ Om trên người — khổ qua sẽ kể họ nghe về thời đại Vedic (nền văn hóa tiền Hindu trong thung lũng Indus), nó thậm chí còn có một cái tên bằng tiếng Phạn là karavella. Ở Việt Nam, thỉnh thoảng còn có người đọc trại nó thành khổ quá.

Nhưng dân du lịch sẽ lại kể một câu chuyện khác về nó, nếu làm một chuyến đi từ Đông Trung Quốc sang Ấn Độ, Châu Phi và rồi vùng Ca-ri-bê, bạn sẽ thấy khổ qua được sử dụng khác nhau ở mỗi quốc gia. Ngoài muối, khổ qua là nguyên liệu thực phẩm được sử dụng rộng rãi hơn các nguyên liệu khác. Mặc dù chứa chất dinh dưỡng không đáng kể — ngoại trừ vitamin NO ATTACHMENT

PEACE

HUMILITY

GAIN

LOSS

PRIDE

BITTERNESS ATTACHMENT

Mads’ choice

C, khổ qua tự hào đóng góp 40% thành phần trong các liều thuốc khuyến cáo nên dùng hàng ngày — nó từ lâu được biết đến như một loài rau quả có chứa các thành phần chữa bệnh, đặc biệt là giúp tuần hoàn máu và diệt giun sán.

Cách nấu khổ qua yêu thích của tôi là cắt lát nó và xào với dầu dừa, trứng, hành và cà chua.

Khổ qua đóng vai trò giữ tất cả các hương vị khác với nhau với một vị dòn dòn ngon ngon, nhưng nó không làm đánh mất những mùi vị khác. Ngay cả trong canh khổ qua, sự tập trung cũng nằm ở món thịt heo bằm được nêm nếm gia vị nhồi bên trong, chứ không phải ở chính bản thân loại rau quả ấy. Điều này có thể giải thích tại sao mặc dù khổ qua có mặt tại các chợ, trải dài từ Nepal đến Trinidad, nhưng không có món ăn khổ qua đặc trưng của bất kỳ quốc gia nào lại chỉ có mỗi khổ qua không thôi.

Cay Đắng Như Là Hương Vị Của Cuộc Sống

Mang ý nghĩa tượng trưng, khổ qua hầm là một trong những món được chuẩn bị cho Tết — vị đắng của nó đại diện cho những khó khăn nghèo khổ trong cuộc sống mà đất nước đã trải qua. Nó còn có ý nghĩa tượng trưng tích cực, một nhóm nghệ thuật quốc tế được biết đến là Hội Đồng Khổ Qua Quốc Gia (NBMC) cho rằng, khổ qua là loại rau quả dành cho con người vì không động vật trên thế giới ăn nó.

Mặc dù tôi không chắc điều này có đúng 100% không, nhưng khi tôi liên lạc với một thành viên của họ ở chi nhánh Tokyo — Hiroko Kikuchi, anh đã đảm bảo với tôi rằng, “cay đắng là một cảm xúc/ hương vị mà chỉ có con người mới có thể trân trọng”, và “nghiền ngẫm về sự cay đắng có thể làm cho chúng ta hiểu thêm về cộng đồng, nhân loại, người

Ed’s choice

khác và xã hội”. Anh ta cũng khẳng định rằng, NBMC chắc chắn “không phải một trò đùa”.

Triết lý của NBMC là kết hợp các lợi ích dinh dưỡng của việc ăn khổ qua với ý tưởng những đắng cay đau khổ vốn luôn làm chúng ta cảm thấy mình là con người, đó cũng có thể là tình cảm ưu ái nhất dành cho một loại rau quả mà tôi từng biết. Triết lý đó không hề sến, nhưng ngọt ngào, tuyệt vời và một chút gì đó hợp lý. Chim chóc không ăn khổ qua và chúng cũng chẳng bao giờ nằm trên giường, nhìn chằm chằm cái quạt trần và suy nghĩ về những đứa bạn mà chúng đã bỏ rơi đâu đó. Chúng ta thì ăn khổ qua và chúng ta thì lại làm tất cả những điều trên. Bạn hiểu rồi đấy.

Làm Sao Biết Khổ Qua Ăn Được Chưa

Quá trình phát triển của khổ qua sẽ bắt đầu từ những trái nhỏ, màu xanh nhạt và rồi to lớn lên, chuyển sang xanh sẫm. Khổ qua càng lớn, càng xanh thì càng đắng, và vỏ cũng sẽ cứng hơn, do đó bạn nên chọn những trái có màu xanh nhạt và có kích thước cỡ bằng con chuột hamster. Sau giai đoạn đó, khổ qua sẽ chuyển sang màu vàng cam. Vì vậy, nếu bạn nhìn thấy vài vệt vàng, điều đó có nghĩa là khổ qua đã già và sẽ khó ăn, ngay cả khi kích thước của nó có còn nhỏ đi nữa.

Khí hậu ấm áp với độ ẩm cao của Việt Nam rất thích hợp để trồng khổ qua, và khí hậu này cũng làm cho mùa của nó cũng dài hơn — thông thường khổ qua chỉ phát triển vào mùa khô nhưng cũng dao động qua cả mùa mưa, tương tự như các mặt hàng thường xuyên trong siêu thị như bí, dưa leo và dưa lưới. Điều đó có nghĩa là bất cứ lúc nào bạn thèm khổ qua, cứ ra chợ mà mua thôi. — Matt Bender

wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 185

MỪNG CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 5 TUỔI

Nhân kỷ niệm mừng Craig Thomas Gallery được thành lập 5 năm, phòng tranh sẽ tổ chức triển lãm của 12 nghệ sỹ Việt Nam từ 19/6 — kéo dài cho tới 18/7. Những tác phẩm được trưng bày sẽ là tranh sơn dầu, tượng điêu khắc và nghệ thuật sắp đặt, và sẽ giới thiệu các nghệ sỹ trên cả nước, trong đó có nhiều nghệ sỹ đã có những cuộc triển lãm solo trong những năm gần đây tại phòng tranh.

Phòng tranh Craig Thomas bắt đầu hoạt động từ năm 2009 với mục tiêu là thúc đẩy nghệ thuật địa phương và trong nước. Giới thiệu những nghệ sỹ trẻ và có đủ kinh nghiệm từ khắp cả nước trong suốt 5 năm qua, họ đã đóng góp rất nhiều cho ngành nghệ thuật phong phú hiện tại khi chúng tôi không còn nhiều khả năng.

Craig Thomas Gallery nằm ở 27i Trần Nhật Duật, Q1. Triển lãm kỷ niệm mừng 5 năm sẽ được tổ chức từ ngày 19/6 kéo dài tới 18/7. Để biết thêm chi tiết, xen ghé website cthomasgallery.com

MELTING POT LÊN 5

Tiếp nối truyền thống nghệ thuật, khiêu vũ và âm nhạc của những chương trình diễn ra trong hai ngày Melting Pots lần trước, Melting Pot 5 sẽ giới thiệu nhiều nghệ nhân với những sản phẩm của họ được bày bán, những nhạc sỹ biểu diễn để làm từ thiện và xem đó như là phần thưởng cho mình. Chương trình lần này sẽ giúp cho tổ chức Saigon Children’s Charity, đây là một tổ chức gây quỹ để giúp trẻ em Việt Nam bất hạnh trong cuộc sống có cơ hội được đến trường, đặc biệt là âm nhạc và nghệ thuật. Ở Sài Gòn, ai đó cũng có tài ít nhiều.

Melting Pot 5 sẽ diễn ra trong hai ngày 7 và 8 tháng 6, tại Saigon Outcast, 188/1 Nguyễn Văn Hưởng, Q2. Để cập nhật thông tin, xin hãy ghé Facebook của Saigon Outcast tại facebook.com/ saigonoucast (sic)

POCKEMON CREW ĐẾN VIỆT NAM

Vũ đạo của Pockemon Crew là sự kết hợp giữa những thể loại rất khác biệt là hip hop và kịch câm của những năm 1930. Nó đôi khi nhẹ nhàng, đôi khi mãnh liệt với sức mạnh lôi cuốn như kể chuyện của thể loại kịch câm. Được thành lập và hoạt động tại Nhà Hát Quốc Gia ở Lyon từ năm 2003, những con người này là sự pha trộn đặc biệt với những cá nhân khéo léo được đào tạo có trường lớp và những cá nhân mang phong cách đường phố — và giờ đây, họ sẽ đến Việt Nam. Đêm Pockemon Crew’s Silence, We Turn! sẽ diễn ra ở Nhà Hát Bến Thành, 6 Mạc Đĩnh Chi, Q1 — ngày 12/6 lúc 20:00. Giá vé từ 90,000 đồng đến 150,000 đồng, sinh viên được giảm 50%. Sau đó, nhóm Pockemon Crew sẽ diễn ở Hà Nội tại Nhà Hát Tuổi Trẻ, 11 Ngô Thì Nhậm, vào ngày 14/6 từ 20:00.

Vé được bán tại L’Espace, 24 Tràng Tiền với giá 120,000 đồng, các thành viên của L’Espace được giảm giá.

186 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com

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wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 187

The final say

n o s e t o Some N LS LIFE SKIL

Dara O Foghlu tries to get himself organised and buys himself a whiteboard. But with organisation comes the word ‘must’, and an even worse word, ‘procrastination’

I

can only remember three jokes at any one time. If I manage to learn a new joke, I will inevitably forget one of the original three. It’s nerve-wracking to live with this idea that you’re constantly forgetting something — your girlfriend’s birthday, a dentist appointment or the name of the person you work beside every day. And so after 30 years of coping with forgetfulness, I finally admitted that I needed a whiteboard.

In the stationery shop, once beyond the stacks of pens, toppers, rubbers and folders, I came to a high shelf stocked with whiteboards of various sizes. As I stood in the reflected glow of those pure and perfect boards, I imagined the organised life that would surely follow once I owned one. In my mind’s eye I saw the board hanging on the rear wall of my office, peppered with lists, reminders and schedules. Above all else, schedules: timetables to get things crossed off the board. For a moment I considered how productive I might become if I owned two whiteboards. But no, I thought, it

188 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com

is enough for any man to have one. To own two seemed somehow decadent.

From the top shelf I took down the largest whiteboard in stock and walked to the counter. The shop attendant had thick-rimmed glasses and a tight black outfit to accentuate her curves. She had that anaemic complexion common to most Vietnamese during winter, and there was a guarded and suspicious country look about her, like she believed everyone in the city to be a huckster, and everything to be false gadgetry. And she was mostly right, I was thinking to myself as I stared at her curves: the dominance of style, the decline of substance, the slow dripdrip of morality into the sewer. Who could deny her these grievances? But she wasn’t to know — how could she?

— that what I was buying from her for less than VND300,000 would singlehandedly turn my life around so I could transcend all that. Once I owned the whiteboard, I would systematically work my way through my own life’s tasks, and then move on to the ills of society. In the end, I might even be

able to fix her problems.

She looked bored and angry at the same time. “Is that it?” she said, readjusting her glasses.

“Yes,” I said, “this is everything.”

The Life of a Whiteboard Owner So I cycled home in the gale force wind carrying the 90cm x 60cm whiteboard under my oxter like a sail, and steered my bicycle with my other hand. The rain was seeping into the exposed sponge of my saddle and I reminded myself that I must write Buy new saddle on the whiteboard as soon as I got home. Of course, I forgot. When I got it home I put the whiteboard on top of a low bookcase in my office, wrote the words Buy whiteboard on it and duly drew a line through these words with a dry-wipe marker I had bought for that exact purpose. Then I sat in my office chair admiring my new whiteboard, and swivelled.

Strangely, some months after owning the whiteboard, my life was not quite ‘turned around’, whatever I

p i h s r e n w O d r boa

White

“It’s nerve-wracking to live with this idea that you’re constantly forgetting something — your girlfriend’s birthday, a dentist appointment, or the name of the person you work beside every day. And so after 30 years of coping with forgetfulness, I finally admitted that I needed a whiteboard” supposed that to mean anyway. Sure, I used it — I mean, I wrote things on it from time to time — but once something had been written on the board I ignored it. And so, whereas previously I used to lose track of the things I was supposed to do, now I had a comprehensive list of the things I was meant to, but was not, doing.

Propped up against the back wall and surrounded by books I had yet to read, the board became covered in terse bullet points as if barked by some truculent overlord: make mnemonic for list of chores; re-read lecture notes; memorise new joke.

I grew to hate the board.

Every time I glanced at it I was reminded of all the things I should have done long ago. My tax returns stayed on the board for at least three months, to give an example. Filling out my driver’s licence application form — about four months. As for going to the GP for a check-up — pending. I am prone to procrastination because I can’t stand following orders and being obliged to give up my time to anyone.

Even if those orders come from myself.

In fact, rather than being surprised by my ability to put things off, I was surprised that I ever got anything done. For instance, how did I manage to bring myself around to buying a whiteboard? I must have tricked myself into it somehow.

The Return to Innocence To assuage my guilt for not following my list of things I needed to do, I made exhaustive ‘to do’ lists, ones where no achievement was too small to be recorded (e.g. go to the cinema, clean shoes, read book). I did this so that the damning order to carry out a significant task became crowded out, a small star lost among a nebula of completed tasks.

Eventually the board became so full of lists and reminders, small tasks and big ones, that all the world’s problems had become intermixed with my own. I found things on the board that I didn’t even remember writing: The Problems in Thailand — causes and solutions; Get wrapping paper and sustainable energy source.

Everything was blocking itself, and

nothing could get done. I started filling the board up. In a frenzy, I wrote every task I could think of, both trivial and momentous, in tiny letters along the margins and in between the lines. I filled the board until there was no more room, and the voice to remind me became a roaring cacophony of orders, demands and suggestions — all of it beautifully incomprehensible.

In the final square of white space I wrote the words, clean board, and then I wiped the whole damn mess clean. And there, once again, was the whiteness shining through. The world was returned to a calm garden of innocence on a bright day. Every colour of the spectrum met in perfect equality on that clean whiteboard propped up against the wall of my office. Purity, serenity and the scope for infinite potential; all this was suddenly restored with the swipe of a rag.

Now, to avoid stockpiling my problems, I only ever use it to write jokes on. At this point I can remember four good ones. Okay, so stop me if you’ve already heard this one: A guy walks into a bar…

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The final say

TREND

Hey, Miss Deezay Eye-candy female DJs are making a name for themselves in Vietnam. But what’s really talking? Is it the music or is it something else? Words by Nick Ross

“W

ow, we’ve got 25 mutual friends,” says my colleague. “Are you friends with her?”

“With a name like PoPo Duong, I’ve got to be friends with her,” I reply. We both laugh.

My oldest daughter’s nickname when she was young was Po Po. We’re researching the latest ‘trend’ in Vietnamese DJs — attractive female turntablists who are said to be more about looks and performance than the music they play. There was once a time when DJs of both sexes would hide behind their decks, slap on a baseball cap, and let the music — or in the case of Vietnam, top shelf spirits — do the talking.

Now, thanks to antics-employing international beatmeisters such as Steve Aoki and Bob Sinclar and a growing throng of attractive, provocatively dressed eye-candy

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DJs, the tide has quite suddenly turned.

Music, yes. But performance as well. Think of how Madonna, and then 25 years later, Lady Gaga, transformed the concept of the female performing artist. So the growing quorum of female DJs is the latest to get the makeover. In Vietnam, having a wellendowed hostess gamboling away behind a mixing board, a MacBook Air and a couple of decks has become a norm. It’s not just the music that the punters are after these days, but the eye candy.

Some Like it Hot I’m now on PoPo Duong’s Facebook page. She plays at Fuse and is married to XyXy Ngan, a female customer service representative at Asiana Airlines. I look at some of her posts, and men with foreign names are jumping in with praise, trying to woo PoPo into a response. They are

unanimously ignored.

Compared to some of her female compadres overseas, PoPo has much to be proud of. French-born Miss Kittin has 269,642 likes on Facebook. Maya Jane Coles, presently rated as the world’s top female DJ, weighs in with 286,473 clicks of admiration while Nina Kraviz tops that with 382,307 likes. PoPo may be lagging behind with a paltry 85,192 followers, but that’s still not bad considering that she is a local name and yet to get a presence on the international stage. She’s popular, at least Facebook popular.

Equally popular, or so we are led to believe, is the myriad of eye-candy DJs gracing the digital ether of a Facebook group called Big Titty Vietnamese DJ’s. Moderated by the Nha Trang-based expat Craig Anderson, among his favourite celebrity DJs (or deezays, as they’re often written

in Vietnamese) are of course PoPo, as well as DJ Money, DJ Tina Bee, DJ Pety — who is also featured like so many other peers on barsaigon.net — and DJ Myno, who has also become an online celebrity. There are two ongoing jokes here among both the posters and commenters. One is about how revealing some of these photos are — DJ Benny Nguyen receives particular attention in this field. The other is about those who DJ using their iPhones.

Quality Over Quantity We decided to canvas the DJs of Vietnam to get their own thoughts on this new phenomenon. Are the provocative, evocative, scantily clad eye-candy DJs a good thing? Or are they just a flash in the pan? And can they mix well and play decent tunes? Here is what they said: “This is the entertainment industry and in this industry, it’s a cliché: what sells is triple S: sex, scandal and stories. To me, it’s inevitable. It’s bound to happen, so I’m not bothered. The consumers are wiser now and they have choices. If they choose to go hang out at clubs with sexy DJs and bad music (most not all) versus a normal looking DJ but with good music, it’s up to them. They know what they are getting.” — DJ Scrambled Edge, dOSe

“While it’s probably not too harmful it does suggest that perhaps the music that’s being played comes second to the person playing it. That’s not strictly limited to here. Look at some of the DJs in the world of music today — people like Paris Hilton, for example.

While stage presence can help in engaging people further with music, it shouldn’t be the main or only thing.” — DJ Will Henley, Forward Slash “The current trend in clubs seems to be more about pomp and ceremony than the actual music. I think that these [eyecandy DJs] aren’t being employed for their musical talent. It seems to take the point of ‘clubbing’ away if no ones gives a damn about the actual tunes that are playing.

“There is a fashion here of being ‘seen’ in places, selfies taken next to big brand shops and so on. I think this all ties in with that. People need to be seen in places with these [eye-candy DJs] purely for a Facebook update or a check-in. If a ridiculously hot girl was incorporating some more underground sounds in her sets to sway the crowd away from the traditional Vinahouse and EDM nonsense, then they could potentially become tastemakers, which traditionally is the whole point in DJing — to expose people to new music and show people something interesting. Unfortunately

I doubt that will ever happen.” — DJ Blip Blop, Synergy Music Production “Not all [eye-candy DJs] are sh_t. I know one or two who can spin. Sure they play trashy music, but that’s what the Vietnamese crowds are into: EDM and VinaHouse. Diabolical stuff. It is, however, played in a technically sound way, meaning the beat-matching is on point and the mixes excite and interest the audience. They also mix in key, which requires a lot of time spent at home working on mixes, finding tunes that work together. This one DJ called Tina Bee who’s [pretty well-endowed], obviously spends a lot of time working on her sets. So, there’s a grey area. Just because they have big tits doesn’t mean they’re automatically crap. That said, most of these [DJs], both male and female, are useless! But what’s new?” — DJ Hugh-G, Friday Fix So what do you think? A flash in the pan? Or something that is here to stay?

Good, bad or totally, erm, rad? Or maybe you think we’re wrong for singling out women in this way? Or do you think this is a case of women taking advantage of their appearance, and working out how to capitalise on it?

Let us know by dropping a line to editor@ wordvietnam.com.

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The last call The founder of MANTA sailing school in Mui Ne, Julia Shaw is at the forefront of developing sailing in Vietnam. Photo by Kyle Phanroy My love of sailing started…

with my grandma’s boat when I was four, and grew with the independence of sailing dinghies when I was five, and teaching friends to sail when I was six.

My grandmother’s boat… by the salt-

marshes at the end of the Lymington River in the UK, was where we lived on long leave from Sarawak, as her house was too small for all of us. It still amazes me how well people get on in the small confines of a boat.

Growing up in Sarawak… introduced

me to my first memories of torrential rain plus the smell, enormity and deep greenness of the rainforest on the doorstep, which to me was full of souls. I loved my Iban amah and was glued to her hip, so others thought I’d never walk.

Being on the open sea… is where my heart and soul are. I love the way you can balance the elements to go where you want to go. Plus I love the way the oceans sound different whichever coast you are on, and the way water flows.

I created MANTA… for marine conser-

vation reasons including an alternative to overfishing and ideally to replace horrific sea memories which many in Vietnam may have.

Fishermen learn sailing skills fast, because of their existing ocean skills, and they don’t mind getting darker skin or covering up.

When Vietnam joined the International Sailing Federation in 2012… it opened the opportunity for fast track sail training development with a link to International Olympic Committee (IOC) funding plus the opportunity to compete with other countries and hold international events in Vietnam.

Marine conservation… efforts are a drop The 2016 Asian Beach Games are… in the ocean until it is possible to close areas to overfishing and pollution where marine resources can grow and multiply to restock.

Vietnam’s best chance to be ahead of the pack, by including kiteboarding for the first time in the games.

MANTA soon developed into… the first Boats… come in thousands of different classes, and only sailing school in Vietnam, set-up and operating to international standards of sailing and safety. It’s run by sail-trained fishermen.

and can be a daunting and limiting factor for sailing development, given the cost of equipment, shipping and import tax.

My goal with the school is to… pass it on to others who have a better business focus, better marketing and promotional skills, while continuing to train coaches across the country at MANTA. We want to grow a broad base of sailors, generating elite athletes and coaches, to help holistic sustainability of all sail sports, for all ages.

I hope that… long-term it will be possible to

Vietnamese kitesurfers… have developed amazingly well. Although Vietnam is 200 years behind leading Asian countries in sailing, it is in the top three countries for kiteboarding. Kiteboarding is the newest and fastest growing sail sport worldwide.

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promote Vietnam’s stunning coast with permits to sail its length, developing tourism, like in Croatia and elsewhere.

If I could be any marine animal I would be… a diatom, growing where there is light,

and helping fix more carbon than the world’s tropical rainforests.

If my parents could see me now… I’d thank them for the opportunities they gave me with their introduction to sailing, my love for life, being born in Sarawak and where that has taken me.